A TOUR IN SCOTLAND. MDCCLXIX.

ON Monday the 26th of JUNE take my depar⯑ture from CHESTER,CHESTER. a city without parallel for the ſingular ſtructure of the four princi⯑pal, ſtreets, which are as if excavated out of the earth, and ſunk many feet beneath the ſurface; the carriages drive far beneath the level of the kitchens, on a line with ranges of ſhops, over which on each ſide of the ſtreets paſſengers walk from end to end, in covered galleries, ſecure from wet or heat. The back courts of all theſe houſes are level with the ground, but to go into any of theſe four ſtreets it is neceſſary to deſcend a flight of ſeveral ſteps.

The Cathedral is an antient ſtructure, very ragged on the outſide, from the nature of the red friable ſtone ^* with which it is built: the tabernacle work in the choir is very neat; but the beauty, and elegant ſimplicity of a very antique gothic chapter-houſe, is what merits a viſit from every traveller.

The Hypocauſt near the Feathers Inn, is one of the remains of the Romans ^**, it being well known that this place was a principal ſtation. Among [2] many antiquities found here, none is more ſingular than the rude ſculpture of the Dea Armigera Miner⯑va, with her bird and her altar on the face of a rock in a ſmall field near the Welch end of the bridge.

The caſtle is a decaying pile. The walk of the city, the only complete ſpecimens of antient for⯑tifications, are kept in excellent order, being the principal walk of the inhabitants; the views from the ſeveral parts are very fine; the mountains of Flintſhire, the hills of Broxton, and the inſulated rock of Beeſton, form the ruder part of the ſcenery; a rich flat forms the ſofter view, and the proſpect up the river towards Boughton, recalls in ſome de⯑gree the idea of the Thames and Richmond hill.

Paſſed thro' Tarvin, a ſmall village; in the church-yard is an epitaph in memory of Mr. John Thomaſen, an excellent penman, but particularly famous for his exact and elegant imitation of the Greek character.

Delamere, which Leland calls a faire and large foreſt, with plenty of redde deer and falow, is now a black and dreary waſte; it feeds a few rabbets, and a few black Terns ^* ſkim over the ſplaſhes that water ſome part of it.

A few miles from this heath lies Northwich, Salt Pi [...]s. a ſmall town, long famous for its rock ſalt, and brine pits; ſome years ago I viſited one of the mines; the ſtratum of ſalt lies about forty yards thick; that which I ſaw was hollowed into the form of a temple; I deſcended thro' a dome, and found the roof ſupported by rows of pillars, about two [3] yards thick, and ſeveral in height; the whole was illuminated with numbers of candles, and made a moſt magnificent and glittering appearance. Above the ſalt is a bed of whitiſh clay^*, uſed in making the Liverpool earthen-ware; and in the ſame place is alſo dug a good deal of the Gypſum, or plaiſter ſtone. The foſſil ſalt is generally yellow, and ſemi⯑pellucid, ſometimes debaſed with a dull greeniſh earth, and is often found, but in ſmall quantities, quite clear and color-leſs.

The road from this place to Macclesfield is thro' a flat, rich, but unpleaſant country. That town is in a very flouriſhing ſtate, is poſſeſſed of a great manufacture of mohair and twiſt buttons; has be⯑tween twenty and thirty ſilk mills, and a very con⯑ſiderable copper ſmelting houſe, and braſs work.

After leaving this place the country almoſt in⯑ſtantly changes and becomes very mountanous and barren, at left on the ſurface; but the bowels com⯑penſate for the external ſterility, by yielding ſuffi⯑cient quantity of coal for the uſe of the neighboring parts of Cheſhire, and for the burning of lime; vaſt quantity is made near Buxton, and being car⯑ried to all parts for the purpoſes of agriculture, is become a conſiderable article of commerce.

The celebrated warm bath of BUXTON ^** is ſeated in a bottom,BUXTON. amidſt theſe hills, in a moſt chearleſs ſpot, and would be little frequented, did not Hygeia often reſide here, and diſpenſe to her [4] votaries the chief bleſſings of life, eaſe and health with joy and gratitude I this moment reflect on the efficacious qualities of the waters; I recollect with rapture the return of ſpirits, the flight of pain, and re-animation of my long, long crippled rheumatic limbs. But how unfortunate is it, that what Pro⯑vidence deſigned for the general good, ſhould be rendered only a partial one, and denied to all, ex⯑cept the opulent or I may ſay to the (compara⯑tively) few that can get admittance into the houſe where theſe waters are impriſoned. There are other ſprings (Cambden ſays nine) very near that in the Hall, and in all probability of equal virtue. I was informed that the late Duke of Devonſhire, not long before his death, had ordered ſome of theſe to be incloſed and formed into baths. It is to be hoped that his ſucceſſor will not fail adopting ſo uſefull and humane a plan; that he will form it on the moſt enlarged ſyſtem, that they may open not ſolely to theſe whom miſuſed wealth hath rendered invalids, but to the poor cripple, whom honeſt labor hath made a burden to himſelf and his country; and to the ſoldier and ſailor, who by hard ſervice have loſt the uſe ot thoſe very limbs which once were active in our defence. The honor reſulting from ſuch a foundation would be as great, as the ſatisfaction ariſing from a conſciouſneſs of ſo benevolent a work would be unſpeakable; the charms of diſſipation would then loſe their force, and dull and taſteleſs would every human luxury appear to him who had it in his power thus to lay open theſe fountains of health, and to be able to exult in ſuch pathetic and comfortable ſtrains as theſe: When the ear heard me, [5] then it bleſſed me, and when the eye ſaw me it gave witneſs to me;

Becauſe I delivered the poor that cried, and the fa⯑therleſs, and him that had none to help him.

The bleſſing of him that was ready to periſh came upon me, and I cauſed the widow's heart to ſing for joy.

I was eyes to the blind, and feet was I to the lame.

After leaving Buxton, paſſed thro' Middleton dale, a deep narrow chaſm between two vaſt cliffs, which extend on each ſide near a mile in length: this road is very ſingular, but the rocks in general are too naked to be beautifull. At the end is the ſmall village of Stoney Middleton; here the proſpect opens, and at Barſly Bridge exhibits a pretty view of a ſmall but fertile vale, watered by the Derwent, and terminated by Chatſworth, and its plantations. Arrived and lay at

Cheſterfield; an ugly town. There is here a great manufacture of worſted ſtockings, and another of a brown earthen-ware, much of which is ſent into Holland; the clay is found near the town, over the baſs or cherry^* ſtratum, above, the coal. The ſteeple of Cheſterfield church is a ſpire, covered with lead, but by a violent wind ſtrangely bent, in which ſtate it remains.

In the road ſide, about three miles from the town,JUNE 27. are ſeveral pits of iron ſtone, about nine or ten feet deep. The ſtratum lies above the coal, and is two feet thick. I was informed that the adventurers pay ten pounds per annum to the Lord of the Soil, for liberty of raiſing it; that the la⯑borers [6] borers have ſix ſhillings per load for getting it; each load is about twenty ſtrikes or buſhels, which yields a tun of metal. Coal, in theſe parts, is very cheap, a tun and a half being ſold for five ſhillings.

Changed horſes at Workſop and Tuxford; croſſed the Trent at Dunham-Ferry, where it is broad but ſhallow; the ſpring tides flow here, and riſe about two feet, but the common tides never reach this place. Paſs along the Foſs-Dyke, or the canal opened by Henry I.^* to form a communication be⯑tween the Trent and the Witham; it was opened^* the year 1121, and extends from Lincoln to Tor⯑keſey; its length is eleven miles three quarters, the breadth between dike and dike at the top is about ſixty feet, at bottom twenty-two; veſſels from fif⯑teen to thirty-five tuns navigate this canal, and by its means a conſiderable trade in coals, timber, corn and wool is carried on. In former times, the perſons who had landed property on either ſide were obliged to ſcower it whenever it was choaked up, and accordingly we find preſentments were made by juries in ſeveral ſucceeding reigns for that purpoſe. Reach

LINCON, an antient but ill-built city, much fallen away from its former extent. It lies partly on a plain, partly on a very ſteep hill, on whoſe ſummit are the cathedral and the ruins of the caſtle. The firſt [7] is a vaſt pile of gothic architecture; has nothing remarkable on the outſide, but within is of match⯑leſs beauty and magnificence: the ornaments are exceſſively rich, and in the fineſt gothic taſte; the pillars light, the centre loſty, and of a ſurpriſing grandeur. The windows at the N. and S. ends very antient, but very elegant; one repreſents a leaf with its fibres, the other conſiſts of a number of ſmall circles. There are two other antient win⯑dows on each ſide the great iſle: the others, as I recollect, are modern. This church was, till of late years, much out of repair, but has juſt been reſtored in a manner that does credit to the Chapter. There is indeed a ſort of arch near the W. end, that ſeems placed there (for the ſame end as Bayes tells us he wrote one of his ſcenes) meerly to ſet off the reſt.

The proſpect from this eminence is very exten⯑ſive, but very barren of objects, a vaſt flat as far as the eye can reach, conſiſting of plains not the moſt fertile, or of fens ^* and moors: the laſt are far leſs extenſive than they were, many being drained, and will ſoon become the beſt land in the country. But ſtill much remains to be done; the fens near Reveſby-Abby, eight miles beyond Horn⯑caſtle, are of vaſt extent; but ſerve for little other purpoſe than the rearing great numbers of geeſe, which are the wealth of the fenmen.

[8] During the breeding ſeaſon,Geeſe. theſe birds are lodged in the ſame houſes with the inhabitants, and even in their very bed-chambers: in every appart⯑ment are three rows of coarſe wicker pens placed one above another; each bird has its ſeparate lodge divided from the other, which it keeps poſſeſſion of during the time of ſitting. A perſon, called a Gozzard ^*, attends the flock, and twice a day drives the whole to water; then brings them back to their habitations, helping thoſe that live in the upper ſtories to their neſts, without ever miſplacing a ſingle bird.

The geeſe are plucked five times in the year; the firſt plucking is at Lady-Day, for feathers and quils, and the ſame is renewed, for feathers only, four times more between that and Michaelmas. The old geeſe ſubmit quietly to the operation, but the young ones are very noiſy and unruly. I once ſaw this performed, and obſerved that goſlins of ſix weeks old were not ſpared; for their tails were plucked, as I was told, to habituate them early to what they were to come to. If the ſeaſon proves cold, numbers of geeſe die by this barbarous cuſ⯑tom ^**.

Vaſt numbers are drove annually to London, to ſupply the markets; among them, all the ſuper⯑annuated geeſe and ganders (called here Cagmags) which ſerve to fatigue the jaws of the good Citizens, who are ſo unfortunate as to meet with them.

[9] The fen called the Weſt Fen, Fen birds. is the place where the Ruffs and Reeves reſort to in the greateſt num⯑bers ^*; and many other ſorts of water fowl, which do not require the ſhelter of reeds or ruſhes, mi⯑grate here to breed; for this fen is very bare, having been imperfectly drained by narrow canals, which interſect it for great numbers of miles. Theſe the inhabitants navigate in moſt diminutive ſhallow boats; they are, in fact, the roads of the country.

The Eaſt Fen is quite in a ſtate of nature, and gives a ſpecimen of the country before the intro⯑duction of drainage: it is a vaſt tract of moraſs, intermixed with numbers of lakes, from half a mile to two or three miles in circuit, communicating with each other by narrow reedy ſtraits: they are very ſhallow, none are above four or five feet in depth; but abound with fiſh, ſuch as Pike, Pearch, Ruff, Bream, Tench, Rud, Dace, Roach, Bur⯑bolt, Sticklebacks and Eels. The fen is covered with reeds, the harveſt of the neighboring inhabi⯑tants, who mow them annually; for they prove a much better thatch than ſtraw, and not only cot⯑tages but many very good houſes are covered with them. Stares, which during winter reſort in my⯑riads to rooſt in the reeds, are very deſtructive, by breaking them down by the vaſt numbers that perch on them. The people are therefore very diligent in their attempts to drive them away, and are at great expence in powder to free themſelves from theſe troubleſome gueſts. I have ſeen a ſtock of reeds harveſted and ſtacked worth two or three [10] hundred pounds, which was the property of a ſingle farmer.

The birds which inhabit the different fens are verv numerous: I never met with a finer field for the Zoologiſt to range in. Beſides the common Wild-duck, of which an account is given in another place ^*, wild Geeſe, Garganies, Pochards, Sho⯑velers and Teals, breed here. I have ſeen on the Eaſt Fen a ſmall flock of the tuſted Ducks; but they ſeemed to make it only a baiting place. The Pewit Gulls and black Terns abound; the laſt in vaſt flocks almoſt deafen one with their clamors: a few of the great Terns, or Tickets, are ſeen among them. I ſaw ſeveral of the great creſted Grebes on the Eaſt Fen, called there Gaunts, and met with one of their floating neſts with eggs in it. The leſſer creſted Grobe, the black and duſky Grebe, and the little Grebe, are alſo inhabitants of the fens; toge⯑ther with Coots, Water-hens, ſpotted Water-hens, Water-rails, Ruffs, Redſhanks, Lapwings or Wipes, Red-breaſted Godwits and Whimbrels. The God⯑wits breed near Weſhenbrough; the Whimbrels only appear for about a fortnight in May near Spalding, and then quit the country. Oppoſite to Foſſdyke Waſh, during ſummer, are great numbers of Avo⯑ſettas, called there Yelpers, from their cry: they hover over the ſportſman's head like the Lapwing, and fly with their necks and legs extended.

Knots are taken in nets along the ſhores near Foſs⯑ [...]yke in great numbers during winter; but they diſ⯑appear in the ſpring.

[11] The ſhort-eared owl, Br. Zool. I. 156. viſits the neighborhood of Waſhenbrough, along with the Woodcocks, and probably performs its migrations with thoſe birds, for it is obſerved to quit the coun⯑try at the ſame time: I have alſo received ſpecimens of them from the Daniſh dominions, one of the re⯑treats of the Woodcock. This owl is not obſerved in this county to perch on trees, but conceals itſelf in long old graſs; if diſturbed, takes a ſhort flight, lights again and keeps ſtaring about, during which time its horns are very viſible. The farmers are fond of the arrival of theſe birds, as they clear the fields of mice, and will even fly in ſearch of prey during day, provided the weather is cloudy and miſty.

But the greateſt curioſity in theſe parts is the vaſt Herony at Creſſi-Hall, Heronry. ſix miles from Spalding. The Herons reſort there in February to repair their neſts, ſettle there in the ſpring to breed, and quit the place during winter. They are numerous as Rooks, and their neſts ſo crouded together, that myſelf and the company that was with me counted not fewer than eighty in one tree. I here had opportunity of de⯑tecting my own miſtake, and that of other Ornitho⯑logiſts, in making two ſpecies of Herons; for I found that the creſted Heron was only the male of the other: it made a moſt beautifull appearance with its ſnowy neck and long creſt ſtreaming with the wind. The family who owned this place was of the ſame name with theſe birds, which ſeems to be the principal inducement for preſerving them.

[12] In the time of Michael Drayton, Here ſtalk'd the ſtately crane, at though he march'd in war.

But at preſent this bird is quite unknown in our iſland; but every other ſpecies enumerated by that obſervant Poet ſtill are found in this fenny tract, or its neighborhood.

Viſited Spalding, JUNE 28, Spalding. a place very much reſembling, in form, neatneſs, and ſituation, a Dutch town: the river Welland paſſes through one of the ſtreets, a canal is cut through another, and trees are planted on each ſide. The church is a handſome ſtructure, the ſteeple a ſpire. The churches in general, throughout this low tract, are very handſome; all are built of ſtone, which muſt have been brought from places very remote along temporary canals; for, in many inſtances, the quarries lie at leſt twenty miles diſtant. But theſe aedifices were built in zealous ages, when the benedictions or maledictions of the church made the people conquer every diffi⯑culty that might obſtruct theſe pious foundations. The abby of Crowland, ſeated in the midſt of a ſnaking fen, is a curious monument of the inſu⯑perable zeal of the times it was erected in; as the beautifull tower of Boſton church, viſible from all parts, is a magnificent ſpecimen of a fine gothic taſte.

Paſſed near the ſite of Swineſhead-Abby, JUNE 29, Swineſhead-Abby. of which there are not the leſt remains. In the walls of a farm houſe, built out of the ruins, you are ſhewen the figure of a Knight Templar, and told it was the monk who poiſoned King John, a fact denied by our beſt hiſtorians.

[13] Returned thro' Lincoln, went out of town under the Newport-Gate, a curious Roman work; paſſed over part of the heath, changed horſes at Spittle, and at Glanford-Bridge, dined at the ferry-houſe on the banks of the Humber, and after a paſſage of about five miles, with a briſk gale, landed at Hull, and reached that night Burton-Conſtable, the ſeat of Mr. Conſtable, in that part of Yorkſhire called Hol⯑derneſs; a dull, flat country, but excellent for pro⯑ducing large cattle, and a good breed of horſes, whoſe prices are near doubled ſince the French have grown ſo fond of the Engliſh kind.

Made an excurſion to Hornſea, a ſmall town on the coaſt, remarkable only for its mere, a piece of water about two miles long, and one broad, fa⯑mous for its pike and eels; it is divided from the ſea by a very narrow bank, ſo is in much danger of being ſometime or other loſt.

The cliffs on the coaſt of Holderneſs are high, and compoſed of clay, which falls down in vaſt fragments. Quantity of amber is waſhed out of it by the tides,Amber. which the country people pick up and fell; it is found ſometimes in large maſſes, but I never ſaw any ſo pure and clear as that from the Baltic. It is uſually of a pale yellow color within, and prettily clouded; the outſide covered with a thin coarſe coat.

After riding about twenty-two miles thro' a flat grazing country,JULY 2. reached Burlington-Quay, a ſmall town cloſe to the ſea. There is a deſign of build⯑ing a pier, for the protection of ſhipping; at pre⯑ſent there is only a large wooden quay, which pro⯑jects into the water, from which the place takes its [14] name. From hence is a fine view of the white cliffs of Flamborough-Head, which extends far to the Eaſt, and forms one ſide of the Gabrantuicorum ſinus portuoſus of Ptolomy, a name derived from the Britiſh Gyſr, on account of the number of goats found there, according to the conjecture of Camb⯑den.

A mile from hence is the town of Burlington. The body of the church is large, but the ſteeple, by ſome accident, has been deſtroyed; near it is a large gateway, with a noble gothic arch, poſſibly the remains of a priory of black canons, founded by Walter de Gant, in the beginning of the reign of Henry I.

This coaſt of the kingdom is very unfavourable to trees, for, except ſome woods in the neighbor⯑hood of Burton-Conſtable there is a vaſt nakedneſs from the Humber, as far as the extremity of Caith⯑neſs, with a very few exceptions, which ſhall be noted in their proper places.

Went to Flamborough-Head.JULY 3, Flamborough-Head. The town is on the North ſide, conſiſts of about one hundred and fifty ſmall houſes, entirely inhabited by fiſhermen, few of whom, as is ſaid, die in their beds, but meet their fate in the element they are ſo conver⯑ſant in. Put myſelf under the direction of William Camidge, Ciceroni of the place, who conducted me to a little creek at that time covered with fiſh, a fleet of cobles having juſt put in. Went in one of thoſe little boats to view the Head, coaſting it for upwards of two miles. The cliffs are of a tre⯑mendous height, and amazing grandeur; beneath are ſeveral vaſt caverns, ſome cloſed at the end, [15] others are pervious, formed with a natural arch, giving a romantic paſſage to the boat, different from that we entered. In ſome places the rocks are in⯑ſulated, are, of a pyramidal figure, and ſoar up to a vaſt height; the baſes of moſt are ſolid, but in ſome pierced thro', and arched; the color of all theſe rocks is white, from the dung of the innu⯑merable flocks of migratory birds,Its birds. which quite cover the face of them, filling every little projec⯑tion, every little hole that will give them leave to reſt; multitudes were ſwimming about, others ſwarmed in the air, and almoſt ſtunned us with the variety of their croaks and ſcreams; I obſerved among them corvorants, ſhags in ſmall flocks, guillemots, a few black guillemots very ſhy and wild, auks, puſſins, kittiwakes ^*, and herring gulls. Landed at the ſame place, but before our return to Flamborough, viſited Robin Leith's hole, a vaſt cavern, to which there is a narrow paſſage from the land ſide; it ſuddenly riſes to a great height, the roof is finely arched, and the bottom is for a conſiderable way formed in broad ſteps, re⯑ſembling a great but eaſy ftair-caſe; the mouth opens to the ſea, and gives light to the whole.

Lay at Hunmandby, a ſmall village above Filey Bay, round which are ſome plantations that thrive tolerably well, and ought to be an encouragement to gentlemen to attempt covering theſe naked hills.

Filey Brig is a ledge of rocks running far into the ſea, and often fatal to ſhipping. The bay is ſandy, and affords vaſt quantities of fine fiſh, ſuch [16] as Turbot, Soles, &c. which during ſummer ap⯑proach the ſhore, and are eaſily taken in a common ſeſne or dragging-net.

Set out for Scarborough, JULY 4. paſſed near the ſite of Flixton, a hoſpital founded in the time of Athelſtan, to give ſhelter to travellers from the wolves, that they ſhould not be devoured by them ^*; ſo that in thoſe days this bare tract muſt have been covered with wood, for thoſe ravenous animals ever inhabit large foreſts. Theſe hoſpitia are not unfrequent among the Alps; are either appendages to religious houſes, or ſupported by voluntary ſubſcriptions. On the ſpot where Flixton ſtood is a farm-houſe, to this day called the Spital Houſe. Reach

SCARBOROUGH, a large town, built in form of a creſcent on the ſides of a deep hill; at one extre⯑mity are the ruins of the caſtle ſeated on a cliff of a ſtupendous height, from whence is a very good view of the town. In the caſtle-yard is a handſome barrack for one hundred and fifty men, but at pre⯑ſent untenanted by ſoldiery. Beneath, on the ſouth ſide, is a large ſtone pier, (another is now build⯑ing) which ſhelters the ſhipping belonging to the town. It is a place abſolutely without trade, yet owns above 300 ſail of ſhips, which are hired out for freight: in the late war the Government had never leſs than 100 of them in pay.

The number of inhabitants belonging to this place are above 10,000, but as great part are ſailors, nothing like that number are reſident, which makes one church ſufficient for thoſe who live on ſhore. It is large, and ſeated almoſt on [17] the top of the hill. The range of buildings on the Cliff commands a fine view of the caſtle, town, and ſhore, and of innumerable ſhipping that are perpetually paſſing backward and forward on their voyages. The ſpaw ^* lies at the foot of one of the hills, S. of the town; this and the great conveni⯑ency of ſea-bathing, occaſion a vaſt reſort of com⯑pany during ſummer; it is at that time a place of great gayety, for with numbers health is the pre⯑tence, but diſſipation the end.

The ſhore is a fine hard ſand, and during low water is the place where the company amuſe them⯑ſelves with riding. This is alſo the fiſh market; for every day the cobles, or little fiſhing boats, are drawn on ſhore here, and lie in rows, often quite loaden with variety of the beſt fiſh. There was a fiſherman, on the 9th of May, 1767, brought in at one time, 20 Cods, 14 Lings, 17 Skates, 8 Holibuts, beſides a vaſt quantity of leſſer fiſh; and ſold the whole for 3l. 15s. It is ſuperfluous to repeat what has been before mentioned, of the me⯑thods of fiſhing, being amply deſcribed Vol. III. p. 193, of the Britiſh Zoology; yet it will be far from impertinent to point out the peculiar advantages of theſe ſeas, and the additional benefit this town might [18] experience, by the augmentation of its fiſheries. For this account, and for numberleſs civilities, I think myſelf much indebted to Mr. Travis, fur⯑geon, who communicated to me the following Re⯑marks:

Scarborough is ſituated at the bottom of a bay, formed by Whitby rock on the North, and Flambo⯑rough-head on the South; the town is ſeated directly oppoſite to the centre of the W. end of the Dogger bank; which end, (according to Hammond's chart of the North Sea) lies S. and by W. and N. and by E. but by a line drawn from Tinmouth caſtle, would lead about N. W. and S. E. Tho' the Dog⯑ger bank is therefore but 12 leagues from Flambo⯑rough-head, yet it is 16 and a half from Scarborough, 23 from Whitby, and 36 from Tinmouth caſtle. The N. ſide of the bank ſtretches off E. N. E. between 30 and 40 leagues, untill it almoſt joins to the Long-Bank, and Jutt's Riff.

It is to be remarked, that the fiſhermen ſeldom find any Cod, Ling, or other round fiſh upon the Dogger bank itſelf, but on the ſloping edges and hollows contiguous to it. The top of the bank is covered with a barren ſhifting ſand, which affords them no ſubſiſtence; and the water on it, from its ſhallowneſs, is continually ſo agitated and broken, as to allow them no time to reſt. The flat fiſh do not ſuffer the ſame inconvenience there; for when diſturbed by the motion of the ſea, they ſhelter themſelves in the ſand, and find variety of ſuitable food. It is true, the Dutch fiſh upon the Dogger bank, but it is alſo true they take little except Soles, Skates, Thornbacks, Plaiſe, &c. It is in the hol⯑lows [19] between the Dogger and the Well-Bank, that the Cod are taken, which ſupply London market.

The ſhore, except at the entrance of Scarbo⯑rough pier, and ſome few other places, is com⯑poſed of covered rocks, which abound with Lobſters and Crabs, and many other ſhell fiſh, (no Oyſters) thence, after a ſpace covered with clean ſand, extending in different places from one to five or ſix miles. The bottom, all the way to the edge of the Dogger banks, is a ſcar; in ſome places very rugged, rocky, and cavernous; in others ſmooth, and overgrown with variety of ſubmarine plants, Moſſes, Corallines, &c. ^* ſome parts again are ſpread with ſand and ſhells; others, for many leagues in length, with ſoft mud and ooze, furniſhed by the diſcharge of the Tees and Humber.

Upon an attentive review of the whole, it may be clearly inferred, that the ſhore along the coaſt on the one hand, with the edges of the Dogger bank on the other, like the ſides of a decoy, give a direction towards our fiſhing grounds to the mighty ſhoals of Cod, and other fiſh, which are well known to come annually from the Northern ocean into our ſeas; and ſecondly, that the great variety of fiſhing grounds near Scarborough, extending upwards of 16 leagues from the ſhore, afford ſecure retreats and plenty of proper food for all the various kinds of fiſh, and alſo ſuitable places for each kind to de⯑poſit their ſpawn in.

The fiſhery at Scarbarough only employs 105 men, and brings in about 5250l. per annum, a [20] trifle to what it would produce, was there a canal from thence to Leeds and Mancheſter; it is proba⯑ble it would then produce above ten times that ſum, employ ſome thouſands of men, give a comfortable and cheap ſubſiſtence to our manufacturers, keep the markers moderately reaſonable, enable our manu⯑facturing towns to underfell our rivals, and prevent the hands, as is too often the caſe, raiſing inſur⯑rections, in every year of ſcarcity, natural or artificial.

On diſcourſing with ſome very intelligent fiſher⯑men, I was informed of a very ſingular phoenomenon they annually obſerve about the ſpawning of fiſh^*. At the diſtance of 4 or 5 leagues from ſhore, during the months of July and Auguſt, it is remarked, that at the depth of 6 or 7 fathom from the ſurface, the water appears to be ſaturated with a thick jelly, filled with the Ova of fiſh, which reaches 10 or 12 fathoms deeper; this is known by its adhering to the ropes the cobles anchor with when they are fiſhing, for they find the firſt 6 or 7 fathom of rope free from ſpawn, the next 10 or 12 covered with ſlimy matter, the remainder again free to the bot⯑tom. They ſuppoſe this gelatinous ſtuff to ſupply the new-born fry with food, and that it is alſo a protection to the ſpawn, as being diſagreeable to the larger fiſh to ſwim in.

There is great variety of fiſh brought on ſhore; beſides thoſe deſcribed as Britiſh fiſh, were two ſpe⯑cies of Rays: the Whip-Ray has alſo been taken [21] here, and another ſpecies of Weever; but theſe are ſubjects more proper to be referred to a Fauna, than an Itinerary, for a minute deſcription.

Left Scarborough, paſſed over large moors to Robin Hood's Bay. JULY 10. On my round, obſerved the vaſt mountains of alum ſtone,Alum Works. from which that ſalt is thus extracted: It is firſt calcined in great heaps, which continue burning by its own phlo⯑giſton, after being well ſet on fire by coals, for ſix, ten, or fourteen months, according to the ſize of the heap, ſome being equal to a ſmall hill. It is then thrown into pits and ſteeped in water, to ex⯑tract all the ſaline particles. The liquor is then run into other pits, where the vitriolic ſalts are precipitated, by the addition of a ſolution of the ſal ſode, prepared from kelp; or by the volatile alkali of ſtale urine. The ſuperfluous water being then evaporated duely by boiling in large furnaces, the liquor is ſet to cool; and laſtly, is poured into large caſks, to cryſtallize.

The alum works of this county are of ſome an⯑tiquity; they were firſt diſcovered by Sir Thomas Chaloner, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, who obſerving the trees tinged, with an unuſual color, made him ſuſpicious of its being owing to ſome mineral in the neighborhood. He found out that the ſtrata abounded with an aluminous ſalt.

At that time, the Engliſh being ſtrangers to the method of managing it, there is a tradition that Sir Thomas was obliged to ſeduce ſome workmen from the Pope's alum-works near Rome, then the greateſt in Europe. If one may judge from the curſe which his Holineſs thundered out againſt Sir Thomas and [22] the ſugitives, he certainly was not a little enraged; for he curſed by the very form that Ernulphus ^* has left us, and not varied a tittle from that moſt com⯑prehenſive of imprecations.

The firſt pits were near Giſborough, the ſeat of the Chaloners, who ſtill flouriſh there, notwithſtand⯑ing his Holineſs's anathema. The works were ſo valuable as to be deemed a royal mine. Sir Paul Pindar, who rented them, payed annually to the King 12,500l. to the Earl of Mulgrave 1,640l. to Sir William Pennyman 600l. kept 800 workmen in pay, and ſold his alum at 26l. per tun. But this monopoly was deſtroyed on the death of Charles I. and the right reſtored to the proprietors.

In theſe alum rocks are frequently found cornua ammonis, and other foſſils,Jet. lodged in a ſtony nodule. Jet is ſometimes met with in thin flat pieces, externally of the appearance of wood. Ac⯑cording to Solinus, Britain was famous for this foſſil ^**.

The ſands near Robin Hood's village were covered with fiſh of ſeveral kinds, and with people who met the cobles in order to purchaſe their cargo: the place ſeemed as if a great fiſh fair had been held there; ſome were carrying off their bargains, others buſied in curing the fiſh; and a little out at ſea was a fleet of cobles and five men boats, and others arriving to diſcharge the capture of the preceding [23] tides ^*. There are 36 of the firſt belonging to this little place. The houſes here make a groteſque appearance, are ſcattered over the face of a ſteep cliff in a very ſtrange manner, and fill every pro⯑jecting ledge, one above another, in the ſame man⯑ner as the peaſants do in the rocky parts of China. Sand's End, Runwick, and Staitbes, three other fiſhing-towns on this coaſt, are (as I am told) built in the ſame manner.

The country through this day's journey was hilly, the coaſt high. Reach

WHITBY, called by the Saxons, Streaneſhalch, or bay of the light-houſe, a large town, oddly ſituated between two hills, with a narrow channel running through the middle, extending about a mile farther up the vale, where it widens, and forms a bay. The two parts of the town are joined by a good draw-bridge, for the conveniency of letting the ſhipping paſs. From this bridge are often taken the viviparous Blenny, whoſe back-bone is as green as that of the Sea Needle. The river that forms this harbor is the Eſk, but its waters are very inconſiderable when the tide is out. Here is a pretty briſk trade in ſhip-building; but except that, a ſmall manufacture of ſail-cloth, and the hiring out of ſhips as at Scarborough, like that town it has ſcarce any commerce. It is computed there are about 270 ſhips belonging to this place. Of late, an attempt has been made to have a ſhare in the Greenland fiſhery; four ſhips were ſent out, and had very good ſucceſs. There are very good dry [24] docks towards the end of the harbor; and at the mouth a moſt beautifull pier. At this place is the firſt ſalmon-fiſhery on the coaſt.

On the hill above the S. ſide of the town is a fine ruin of St. Hilda's church.St. Hilda's church. The ſite was given to that ſaint by Oſwy, king of Northumberland, about A. D. 657; poſſibly in conſequence of a vow he made to found half a dozen monaſteries, and make his daughter a nun, ſhould heaven favor his arms. St. Hilda founded a convent here for men and wo⯑men, dedicated it to St. Peter, and put it under the direction of an abbeſs. This eſtabliſhment was ruined by the excurſions of the Danes; but after the conqueſt it was rebuilt, and filled with Bene⯑dictines, by Walter de Percy. In leſs enlightened times it was believed that not a wild gooſe dared to fly over this holy ground, and if it ventured was ſure to fall precipitate and periſh in the attempt.

Went about two miles along the ſhore, then turned up into the country, a black and barren moor; obſerved on the right a vaſt artificial mount, or Tumulus, called Freeburgh Hill, a monument, in all probability, the work of the Danes, whoſe cuſtom it was to fling up ſuch Tumuli over the graves of their kings or leaders; or, in memory of the flain in general, upon the ſpot where they had obtained any great victory. It is poſſible that this mount owed its riſe to the victory gained by Ivar, a Daniſh prince, over Ella, king of Bernicia, who was on his way from the North to ſuccour Oſbert; for we are told that Ivar, after defeating the laſt, went from York to meet Ella, and fought and flew him on his march.

[25] At the end of this moor, about three miles from Giſborough, is a beautifull view over the remaining part of Yorkſhire, towards Durham, Hartlepool, and the mouth of the Tees, which maeanders through a very rich tract. The country inſtantly aſſumes a new face; the road lies between moſt delightfull hills finely wooded, and the little vales between them very fertile: on ſome of the hills are the marks of the firſt alum works, which were diſcovered by Sir Thomas Chaloner.

GISBOROUGH, a ſmall town, pleaſantly ſituated in a vale,GISBOROUGH. ſurrounded at ſome diſtance by hills, and open on the eaſt to the ſea, which is about five miles diſtant. It is certainly a delightfull ſpot, but I cannot ſee the reaſon why Cambden compares it to Puteoli. Here was once a priory of the canons of the order of St. Auſtin, founded by Robert de Brus, 1129, after the diſſolution granted by Edward VI. to the Chaloners: a very beautifull eaſt window of the church is ſtill remaining. The town has at preſent a good manu⯑facture of ſail cloth.

The country continues very fine quite to the banks of the Tees, a conſiderable river, which di⯑vides Yorkſhire from the biſhoprick of Durham. After travelling 109 miles in a ſtrait line through the firſt, enter Durham, croſſing the river on a very handſome bridge of arches, the battlements neatly panneled with ſtone; and reach

STOCKTON, lying on the Tees in form of a creſ⯑cent. A handſome town; the principal ſtreet is remarkably fine, being 165 feet broad; and ſeveral leſſer ſtreets run into it at right angles. In the mid⯑dle of the great ſtreet are neat ſhambles, a town⯑houſe, [26] and large aſſembly-room. There is beſides a large ſquare. About a century ago, according to Anderſon, it had ſcarce a houſe that was not made of clay and thatch; but is now a flouriſhing place. Its manufacture is ſail cloth; and great quantities of corn, and lead, (from the mineral parts of the county) are ſent off from hence by commiſſion. As the river does not admit of large veſſels ſo high as the town, thoſe commodities are ſent down to be ſhipped.

The ſalmon fiſhery here is neglected, for none are taken beyond what is neceſſary to ſupply the country. Smelts come up the river in the winter time. On the weſt ſide of the town ſtood the caſtle; what remained of it is at preſent converted into a barn. The country from hence to Durham is flat, very fertile, and much incloſed. Towards the weſt is a fine view of the highlands of the country: thoſe hills are part of that vaſt ridge which commence in the north and deeply divide this portion of the kingdom; and on that account are called by Camb⯑den the Appennines of England.

The approach to DURHAM is romantic,DURHAM. through a deep hollow, cloathed on each ſide with wood. The city is pretty large, but the buildings old. Part are on a plain, part on the ſide of a hill. The abby, or cathedral, and the caſtle, where the Biſhop lives when he reſides here, are on the ſummit of a cliff, whoſe foot is waſhed on two ſides by the river Were. The walks on rhe oppoſite banks are very beautifull, flagged in the middle and paved on the ſides, and are well kept. They are cut through [27] the wood, impend over the river, and receive a venerable improvement from the caſtle and antient cathedral which ſoar above.

The laſt is very old ^*; plain without, and ſup⯑ported within by maſſy pillars, deeply engraved with lozenge-like figures, and zigzag furrows: others are plain; and each forms a cluſter of pillars. The ſkreen to the choir is wood covered with a coarſe carving. The choir neat, but without or⯑nament.

The chapter-houſe ſeems very antient, and is in the form of a theatre. The cloiſters large and handſome. All the monuments are defaced, ex⯑cept that of Biſhop Hatfield. The Prebendal houſes are very pleaſantly ſituated, and have a fine view backwards.

There are two handſome bridges over the Were to the walks; and a third covered with houſes, which join the two parts of the town. This river produces Salmon, Trout, Roach, Dace, Minow, Loche, Bullhead, Sticklebacks, Lamprey, the leſſer Lamprey, Eels, Smelts and Samlet, which are called here Rack-riders, becauſe they appear in winter, or bad weather; Rack, in the northern dia⯑lect, ſignifying the driving of the clouds by tem⯑peſts. It is obſerved here, that before they go off to ſpawn, thoſe fiſh are covered with a white ſlime.

There is no inconſiderable manufacture, at Dur⯑ham, of ſhalloons, tammies, ſtripes and callaman⯑coes. I had heard on my road many complaints of the eccleſiaſtical government this county is ſubject [28] to; but, from the general face of the country, it ſeems to thrive wonderfully under them.

Saw Coker, JULY 12. the ſeat of Mr. Car; a moſt romantic ſituation, layed out with great judgment; the walks are very extenſive, principally along the ſides or at the bottom of deep dells, bounded with vaſt preci⯑pices, finely wooded; and many parts of the rocks are planted with vines, which I was told bore well, but late. The river Were winds along the hollows, and forms two very fine reaches at the place where you enter theſe walks. Its waters are very clear, and its bottom a ſolid rock. The view towards the ruins of Finchal-Abby is remarkably great; and the walk beneath the cliffs has a magnificent ſolemnity, a fit retreat for its monaſtic inhabitants. This was once called the Deſert, and was the rude ſcene of the auſterities of St. Godric, who carried them to the moſt ſenſeleſs extravagance ^*. A ſober mind may even at preſent be affected with horror at the proſpect from the ſummits of the cliffs into a dark⯑ſome and ſtupendous chaſm, rendered ſtill more [29] tremendous by the roaring of the waters over its diſtant bottom.

Paſſed through Cheſter-le-Street, a ſmall town, near which is Lumly-Caſtle, the ſeat of the Earl of Scarborough; a place, as I was told, very well worth ſeeing; but unfortunately it proved a public day, and I loſt ſight of it. The country, from Durham to Newcaſtle, was very beautifull; the riſings gentle, and prettily wooded, and the views agreeable; that on the borders remarkably fine, there being, from an eminence not far from the capital of Northumberland, an extenſive view of a rich country, watered by the coaly Tyne. Reach

NEWCASTLE, a large, diſagreeable, and dirty town,NEWCASTLE. divided in two unequal parts by the river, and both ſides very ſteep. The lower parts are inhabited by Keelmen and their families, a muti⯑nous race; for which reaſon this town is always garriſoned.

The great buſineſs of the place is the coal trade. The collieries lie at different diſtances, from five to eighteen miles from the river; and the coal is brought down in waggons along rail roads, and diſcharged from covered buildings at the edge of the water into the keels or boats that are to convey it on ſhipboard. Theſe boats are ſtrong, clumſy and round, will carry about 25 tuns each; ſometimes are navigated with a ſquare ſail, but generally are puſhed along with large poles. No ſhips of large burthen can come up as high as Newcaſtle, but are obliged to lie at Shields, a few miles down the river, where ſtage coaches go thrice every day for the conveniency of paſſengers. This country is moſt [30] remarkably populous; Newcaſtle alone contains near 40,000 inhabitants; and there are at leſt 400 ſail of ſhips belonging to that town and its port. The effect of the vaſt commerce of this place is very apparent for many miles round; the country is finely cultivated, and bears a moſt thriving and opulent aſpect.

JULY 13.Left Newcaſtle; the country in general flat; paſſed by a large ſtone column with three dials on the capital, with ſeveral ſcripture texts on the ſides, called here Pigg's Folly, from the founder.

A few miles further is Stannington Bridge, a plea⯑ſant village. Morpeth, a ſmall town with a neat town-houſe, and a tower for the bell near it. The caſtle was on a ſmall eminence, but the remains are now very inconſiderable. Some attempt was made a few years ago to introduce the Mancheſter manu⯑facture, but without ſucceſs. There is a remarkable ſtory of this place, that the inhabitants reduced their own town to aſhes, on the approach of King John, A. D. 1215, out of pure hatred to their mo⯑narch, in order that he might not find any ſhelter there.

This place gave birth to William Turner, as Dr. Fuller expreſſes it, an excellent Latiniſt, Graecian, Oratour, and Poet; he might have added polemic divine, champion and ſufferer in the proteſtant cauſe, phyſician and naturaliſt. His botanic wri⯑tings are among the firſt we had, and certainly the beſt of them; and his criticiſms on the birds of Ariſtotle and Pliny, are very judicious. He was the firſt who flung any light on thoſe ſubjects in our [31] iſland; therefore clames from a naturaliſt this tri⯑bute to his memory ^*.

Felton, a pleaſant village on the Coquet, which, ſome few miles lower, diſcharges itſelf into the ſea, oppoſite to a ſmall iſle of the ſame name, remarkable for the multitudes of water-fowl which reſort there to breed.

At Alnwick,Alnwick Caſtle. a ſmall town, the traveller is diſap⯑pointed with the ſituation and environs of the caſtle, the reſidence of the Percies, the antient Earls of Northumberland. You look in vain for any marks of the grandeur of the feudal age; for trophies won by a family eminent in our annals for military proweſs and deeds of chivalry; for halls hung with helms and haberks, or with the ſpoils of the chace; for extenſive foreſts, and venerable oaks. You look in vain for the helmet on the tower, the antient ſignal of hoſpitality to the traveller, or for the grey-headed porter to conduct him to the hall of entertainment. The numerous train, whoſe coun⯑tenances gave welcome to him on his way, are now no more; and inſtead of the diſintereſted uſher of the old times, he is attended by a valet eager to receive the fees of admittance.

There is vaſt grandeur in the appearance of the outſide of the caſtle; the towers magnificent, but injured by the numbers of rude ſtatues crouded on the battlements. The appartments are large, and lately finiſhed in the gothic ſtyle with a moſt incom⯑patible elegance. The gardens are equally incon⯑ſiſtent, trim to the higheſt degree, and more adapted [32] to a villa near London, than the antient ſeat of a great Baron. In a word, nothing, except the num⯑bers of uninduſtrious poor that ſwarm at the gate, excites any one idea of its former circumſtances.

A ſtage further is Belford, the ſeat of Abraham Dixon, Eſq a modern houſe; the front has a moſt beautifull ſimplicity in it. The grounds improved as far as the art of huſbandry can reach; the plan⯑tations large and flouriſhing: a new and neat town, inſtead of the former wretched cottages; and an induſtrious race, inſtead of an idle poor, at preſent fill the eſtate.

On an eminence on the ſea coaſt,Bamborough Caſtle. about four miles from Belford, is the very antient caſtle of Bamborough, built by Ida, firſt king of the Nor⯑thumbrians, A. D. 548. But, according to the con⯑jecture of an antiquarian I met with there, on the ſite of a Roman fortreſs. It was alſo his opinion, that the ſquare tower was actually the work of the Romans. It had been of great ſtrength; the hill it is founded on exceſſively ſteep on all ſides, and ac⯑ceſſible only by flights of ſteps on the ſouth eaſt. The ruins are ſtill conſiderable; the remains of a great hall are very ſingular; it had been warmed by two fire-places of a vaſt ſize, and from the top of every window ran a flue, like that of a chimney, which reached the ſummits of the battlements. Many of the ruins are now filled with ſand, caught up by the winds that rage here with great impe⯑tuoſity, and carried to very diſtant places.

This caſtle, and the manour belonging to it, was once the property of the Forſters; but purchaſed [33] by Lord Crew, Biſhop of Durham, Biſhop Crew's Charity. and with other conſiderable eſtates, left veſted in Truſtees, to be applied to unconfined charitable uſes. Three of theſe Truſtees are a majority: one of them makes this place his reſidence, and bleſſes the coaſt by his judicious and humane application of the Prelate's generous bequeſt. He has repaired and rendered habitable the great ſquare tower: the part reſerved for himſelf and family is a large hall and a few ſmaller apartments; but the reſt of the ſpacious edifice is allotted for purpoſes which make the heart to glow with joy when thought of. The upper part is an ample grainary; from whence corn is diſpenced to the poor without diſtinction, even in the deareſt time, at the rate of four ſhillings a buſhel; and the diſtreſſed, for many miles round, often experience the conveniency of this benefaction.

Other apartments are fitted up for the reception of ſhipwrecked ſailors; and bedding is provided for about thirty, ſhould ſuch a number happen to be caſt on ſhore at the ſame time. A conſtant pa⯑trole is kept every ſtormy night along this tem⯑peſtuous coaſt, for above eight miles, the length of the manour, by which means numbers of lives have been preſerved. Many poor wretches are often found on the ſhore in a ſtate of inſenſibility; but by timely relief, are ſoon brought to themſelves.

It often happens, that ſhips ſtrike in ſuch a man⯑ner on the rocks as to be capable of relief, in caſe numbers of people could be ſuddenly aſſembled: for that purpoſe a cannon ^* is fixed on the top of [34] the tower, which is fired once, if the accident hap⯑pens in ſuch a quarter; twice, if in another, and thrice, if in ſuch a place. By theſe ſignals the country people are directed to the ſpot they are to fly to; and by this means, frequently preſerve not only the crew, but even the veſſel; for machines of different kinds are always in readineſs to heave ſhips out of their perillous ſituation.

In a word, all the ſchemes of this worthy Truſtee have a humane and uſeful tendency: he ſeemed as if ſelected from his brethren for the ſame purpoſes as Spenſer tells us the firſt of his ſeven Beadſmen in the houſe of holineſſe was.

Viſited theſe iſlands in a coble, a ſafe but ſeem⯑ingly hazardous ſpecies of boat,JULY 15. long, narrow and flat-bottomed, which is capable of going thro' a high ſea, dancing like a cork on the ſummits of the waves.

Touched at the rock called the Meg, whitened with the dung of corvorants which almoſt covered it; their neſts were large, made of tang, and moſt exceſſively faetid.

Rowed next to the Pinnacles, an iſland in the fartheſt groupe; ſo called from ſome vaſt columnar rocks at the ſouth end, even at their ſides, and flat at their tops, and entirely covered with guillemots and ſhags: the fowlers paſs from one to the other of theſe columns by means of a narrow board, which they place from top to top, forming a nar⯑row bridge, over ſuch a horrid gap, that the very fight of it ſtrikes one with horror.

Landed at a ſmall iſland, where we found the female Eider ducks ^* at that time ſitting:Eider Ducks. the lower part of their neſts was made of ſea plants; the upper part was formed of the down which they pull off their own breaſts, in which the eggs were ſurrounded and warmly bedded: in ſome were three, in others five eggs, of a large ſize and pale olive color, as ſmooth and gloſſy as if varniſhed over. The neſts are built on the beach, among the looſe pebbles, not far from the water. The [36] Ducks ſit very cloſe, nor will they riſe till you al⯑moſt tread on them. The Drakes ſeparate them⯑ſelves from the females during the breeding ſeaſon. We robbed a few of their neſts of the down, and after carefully ſeparating it from the tang, found that the down of one neſt weighed only three quar⯑ters of an ounce, but was ſo elaſtic as to fill the crown of the largeſt hat. The people of this country call theſe St. Cuthbert's ducks, from the ſaint of the iſlands.

Beſides theſe birds, I obſerved the following:

• Puffins, called here Tom Noddies,
• Auks, here Skouts,
• Guillemots,
• Black Guillemot,
• Little Auks,
• Shiel-ducks,
• Shags,
• Corvorants,
• Black and white Gulls,
• Brown and white Gulls,
• Herring Gulls, which I was told fed ſometimes on eggs of other birds,
• Common Gull, here Annets,
• Kittiwakes, or Tarrocks,
• Pewit Gulls,
• Great Terns,
• Sea Pies,
• Sea Larks, here Brokets,
• Jackdaws, which breed in rabbet-holes,
• Rock Pigeons,
• Rock Larks.

[37] The Terns were ſo numerous, that in ſome places it was difficult to tread without cruſhing ſome of the eggs.

The laſt iſle I viſited was the Houſe iſland, the ſequeſtered ſpot where St. Cuthbert paſſed the two laſt years of his life. Here was afterwards eſta⯑bliſhed a priory of Benedictines for ſix or eight Monks ſubordinate to Durham. A ſquare tower, the remains of a church, and ſome other buildings, are to be ſeen there ſtill; and a ſtone coffin, which, it is pretended, was that of St. Cuthbert. At the north end of the iſle is a deep chaſm, from the top to the bottom of the rock, communicating to the ſea; through which, in tempeſtuous weather, the water is forced with vaſt violence and noiſe, and forms a fine jet d'eau of ſixty-ſix feet high: it is called by the inhabitants of the oppoſite coaſt the Churn.

Reached ſhore through a moſt turbulent rippling, occaſioned by the fierce current of the tides between the iſlands and the coaſt.

Purſued my journey northward. Saw at a diſ⯑tance the Cheviot hills;JULY 17. on which, I was informed, the green Plovers breed; and that, during winter, flocks innumerable of the great Bramblings, or Snow-flakes, appear; the moſt ſouthern place of their migration, in large companies.

The country almoſt woodleſs, there being but one wood of any conſequence between Belford and Berwick. Saw on the left an antient tower, which ſhewed the character of the times when it was un⯑happily neceſſary, on theſe borders, for every houſe to be a fortreſs.

[38] On the right, had a view of the ſea, and, not re⯑mote from the land, of Lindesfarn, or Holy Iſland, once an epiſcopal ſeat, afterwards tranſlated to Durham. On it are the ruins of a caſtle and a church. In ſome parts are abundance of Entrochi, which are called by the country people St. Cuth⯑bert's beads.

After a few miles riding, have a full view of Berwick, and the river Tweed winding weſtward for a conſiderable way up the country; but its banks were without any particular charms ^*, being almoſt woodleſs. The river is broad; and has over it a bridge of ſixteen very handſome arches, eipe⯑cially two next the town.

BERWICK is fortified in the modern way; but is much contracted in its extent to what it was for⯑merly, the old caſtle and works now lying at ſome diſtance beyond the preſent ramparts. The bar⯑racks are large, conſiſt of a center and two wings. The church was built by Cromwel, and, according to the ſpirit of the builder, without a ſteeple. Even in Northumberland, (towards the borders) the ſtee⯑ples grew leſs and leſs, and as if it were forewarned the traveller that he was ſpeedily to take leave of epiſcopacy. The town-houſe has a large and hand⯑ſome modern tower to it: the ſtreets in general are narrow and bad, except that in which the town⯑houſe ſtands.

Abundance of wool is exported from this town: eggs in vaſt abundance collected through all the [39] country, almoſt as far as Carliſle: they are packed in boxes, with the thick end downwards, and are ſent to London for the uſe of ſugar refiners. I was told that as many are exported as bring in annually the ſum of fourteen thouſand pounds.

The ſalmon fiſheries here are very conſiderable,Salmon fiſhery. and likewiſe bring in vaſt ſums: they lie on each ſide the river; and are all private property, except what belongs to the Dean and Chapter of Durham, which, in rent and tythe of fiſh, brings in 450l. per ann. for all the other fiſheries are liable to tythe. The common rents of thoſe are 50l. a year, for which the tenants have as much ſhore as ſerves to launch out and draw their nets on ſhore: the limits of each are ſtaked; and I obſerved that the fiſhers never failed going as near as poſſible to their neigh⯑bor's limits. One man goes off in a ſmall flat⯑bottomed boat, ſquare at one end, and taking as large a circuit as his net admits, brings it on ſhore at the extremity of his boundary, where others aſſiſt in landing it. The beſt fiſhery is on the ſouth ſide ^*: very fine ſalmon trout are often taken here, which come up to ſpawn from the ſea, and return in the ſame manner as the ſalmon do. The chief import is timber from Norway and the Baltic.

Almoſt immediately on leaving Berwick, enter [40] in the ſhire of Merch, or Mers ^*. A little way from Berwick, on the weſt, is Halydon hill, famous for the overthrow of the Scots under the regent Douglas, by Edward III. on the attempt of the former to raiſe the ſiege of that town. A cruel action blaſted the laurels of the conqueror: Seton, the governor, ſtipulated to ſurrender in fifteen days, if not relieved in that time, and gave his ſon as hoſtage for per⯑formance. The time elapſed; Seton refuſed to execute the agreement, and with a Roman unfeel⯑ingneſs beheld the unhappy youth hung before the walls.

The entrance into Scotland has a very unpro⯑miſing look; for it wanted, for ſome miles, the cultivation of the parts more diſtant from England: but the borders were neceſſarily neglected; for, till the acceſſion of James VI. and even long after, the national enmity was kept up, and the borderers of both countries diſcouraged from improvement, by the barbarous inroads of each nation. This inat⯑tention to agriculture continued till lately; but on reaching the ſmall village of Eytown, the ſcene was greatly altered; the wretched cottages, or rather hovels of the country, were vaniſhing; good com⯑fortable houſes ariſe in their ſtead; the lands are incloſing, and yield very good barley, oats, and clover; the banks are planting: I ſpeak in the preſent tenſe; for there is ſtill a mixture of the [41] old negligence left amidſt the recent improvements, which look like the works of a new colony in a wretched impoveriſhed country.

Soon after the country relapſes; no arable land is ſeen; but for four or five miles ſucceeds the black joyleſs heathy moor of Coldingham: hap⯑pily,Coldingham. this is the whole ſpecimen that remains of the many miles, which, not many years ago, were in the ſame dreary unprofitable ſtate. Near this was the convent of that name immortalized by the he⯑roiſm of its Nuns; who, to preſerve themſelves in⯑violate from the Danes, cut off their lips and noſes; and thus rendering themſelves objects of horror, were, with their abbeſs Ebba ^*, burnt in the mo⯑naſtery by the diſappointed ſavages.

At the end of the moor came at once in ſight of the Firth ^** of Forth; a moſt extenſive proſpect of that great arm of the ſea, of the rich country of Eaſt Lothian, the Baſs Iſle; and at a diſtance, the iſle of May, the coaſt of the county of Fife, and the country as far as Montroſe.

After going down a long deſcent dine at Old Cambus, at a mean houſe, in a poor village; where I believe the Lord of the ſoil is often execrated by the weary traveller, for not enabling the tenant to furniſh more comfortable accommodations, in ſo conſiderable a thoroughfare.

[42] The country becomes now extremely fine; bounded at a diſtance, on one ſide, by hills; on the other, by the ſea: the intervening ſpace is as rich a tract of corn land as I ever ſaw; for Eaſt Lothian is the Northamptonſhire of North Britain: the land is in many places manured with ſea tang; but I was informed, that the barley produced from, it is much lighter than barley from other manure.

On the ſide of the hills on the left is Sir John Hall's, of Dunglas; a fine ſituation, with beautifull plantations. Paſs by Broxmouth, a large houſe of the Duke of Roxborough, in a low ſpot, with great woods ſurrounding it. Reach

DUNBAR:DUNBAR. the chief ſtreet broad and handſome; the houſes built of ſtone; as is the caſe with moſt of the towns in Scotland. There are ſome ſhips ſent annually from this place to Greenland, and the ex⯑ports of corn are pretty conſiderable. The harbour is ſafe, but ſmall; its entrance narrow, and bounded by two rocks. Between the harbour and the caſtle is a very ſurpriſing ſtratum of ſtone,Columnar rocks. in ſome reſpects reſembling that of Giant's Cauſeway in Ireland: it conſiſts of great columns of a red grit ſtone, either triangular, quadrangular, pentangular, or hexangular; their diameter from one to two feet, their length at low water thirty, dipping or inclining a little to the ſouth.

They are jointed, but not ſo regularly, or ſo plainly, as thoſe that form the Giant's Cauſeway. The ſurface of ſeveral that had been torn off appear as a pavement of numbers of convex ends, probably anſwering to the concave bottoms of other joints once incumbent on them. The ſpace between the [43] columns was filled with thin ſepta of red and white fparry matter; and veins of the ſame pervaded the columns transverſely. This range of columns faces the north, with a point to the eaſt, and extends in front about two hundred yards. The breadth is inconſiderable: the reſt of the rock degenerates into ſhapeleſs maſſes of the ſame fort of ſtone, irregu⯑larly divided by thick ſepta. This rock is called by the people of Dunbar, the Iſle.

Oppoſite are the ruins of the caſtle, ſeated on a rock above the ſea; underneath one part is a vaſt cavern, compoſed of a black and red ſtone, which gives it a moſt infernal appearance; a fit repreſen⯑tation of the pit of Acheron, and wanted only to be peopled with witches to make the ſcene complete: it appears to have been the dungeon, there being a formed paſſage from above, where the poor pri⯑ſoners might have been let down, according to the barbarous cuſtom of war in early days. There are in ſome parts, where the rock did not cloſe, the remains of walls; for the openings are only natural fiſſures; but the founders of the caſtle taking ad⯑vantage of this cavity, adding a little art to it, ren⯑dered it a moſt complete and ſecure priſon.

On the other ſide are two natural arches, through which the tide flowed; under one was a fragment of wall, where there ſeems to have been a portal for the admiſſion of men or proviſions from ſea: thro' which, it is probable that Alexander Ramſay, in a ſtormy night, reinforced the garriſon, in ſpite of the fleet which lay before the place, when cloſely beſieged by the Engliſh, in 1337, and galantly de⯑fended [44] for nineteen weeks by that heroine black Agnes, Counteſs of March ^*.

Through one of thefe arches was a moſt pic⯑tureſque view of the Baſs Iſle, with the fun ſetting in full ſplendor; through the other of the May iſland, gilt by its beams.

Over the ruins of a window were the three legs, or arms of the Iſle of Man, a lion rampant, and a St. Andrew's croſs.

Rode within ſight of Tantallon caſtle,July 18. now a wretched ruin; once the ſeat of the powerfull Ar⯑chibald Douglas, Earl of Angus, which for ſome time reſiſted all the efforts of James V. to ſubdue it.

A little further, about a mile from the ſhore,Baſs Iſle. lies the Baſs Iſland, or rather rock, of a moſt ſtu⯑pendous height, on the ſouth ſide the top appears of a conic ſhape, but the other over-hangs the ſea in a moſt tremendous manner. The caſtle, which was once the ſtate priſon of Scotland, is now neg⯑lected: it lies cloſe to the edge of the precipice, facing the little village of Caſtleton; where I toke boat, in order to viſit this ſingular ſpot; but the weather proved unfavorable, the wind blew ſo freſh, and the waves ran ſo high, that it was im⯑poſſible to attempt landing; for even in calmer weather it cannot be done without hazard, there being a ſteep rock to aſcend, and commonly a great ſwell, which often removes the boat while you are ſcaling the precipice; ſo, in caſe of a falſe [45] ſtep, there is the chance of falling into a water almoſt unfathomable.

Various ſorts of water fowl repair annually to this rock to breed; but none in greater numbers than the Gannets, or Soland geeſe,Gannets. multitudes of which were then ſitting on their neſts near the ſloping part of the iſle, and others flying over our boat: it is not permitted to ſhoot at them, the place being farmed principally on account of the profit ariſing from the ſale of the young of theſe birds, and of the Kittiwake, a ſpecies of gull, ſo called from its cry. The firſt are fold at Edin⯑burgh ^* for twenty-pence apiece, and ſerved up roaſted a little before dinner. This is the only kind of proviſion whoſe price has not been ad⯑vanced; for we learn from Mr. Ray, that it was equally dear above a century ago^**. It is un⯑neceſſary to ſay more of this ſingular bird, as it has been very fully treated of in the ſecond volume of the Britiſh Zoology.

With much difficulty landed at North Berwick, three miles diſtant from Caſtleton, the place we intended to return to. The firſt is a ſmall town, pleafantly ſeated near a high conic hill, partly, planted with trees: it is ſeen at a great diſtance, and is called the Law of Berwick; a name given to ſeveral other high hills in this part of the iſland.

[46] Paſs through Abberladie and Preſton Pans: Preſton Pans. the laſt takes its name from its ſalt-pans, there being a conſiderable work of that article; alſo another of vitriol. Saw at a ſmall diſtance the field of battle, or rather of carnage, known by the name of the bat⯑tle of Preſton Pans, where the Rebels gave a leſſon of ſeverity, which was more than retaliated, the following ſpring, at Culloden. Obſerved, in this day's ride, (I forget the ſpot) the once princely ſeat of the Earl of Wintoun, now a ruin; judiciouſly left in that ſtate, as a proper remembrance of the ſad fate of thoſe who engage in rebellious politicks. There are great marks of improvement on ap⯑proaching the capital; the roads good, the country very populous, numbers of manufactures carried on, and the proſpect embelliſhed with gentlemen's ſeats. Reach

EDINBURGH,EDINBURGH. A city that poſſeſſes a boldneſs and grandeur of ſituation beyond any that I had ever ſeen: it is built on the edges and ſides of a vaſt ſloping rock, of a great and precipitous height at the upper ex⯑tremity, and the ſides declining very quick and ſteep into the plain. The view of the houſes at a diſtance ſtrikes the traveller with wonder; then own loftineſs, improved by their almoſt aerial ſitu⯑ation, gives them a look of magnificence not to be found in any other part of Great Britain. All thefe conſpicuous buildings form the upper part of the great ſtreet, are of ſtone, and make a handſome appearance: they are generally ſix or ſeven ſtories high in front; but, by reafon of the declivity of the hill, much higher backward;, one in particular, [47] called Babel, has about twelve or thirteen ſtories. Every houſe has a common ſtaircaſe, and every ſtory is the habitation of a ſeparate family. The inconvenience of this particular ſtructure need not be mentioned; notwithſtanding the utmoſt atten⯑tion, in the article of cleanlineſs, is in general obſerved. The common complaint of the ſtreets of Edinburgh is now taken away, by the great vigi⯑lance of the magiſtrates ^*, and their ſeverity againſt any that offend in any groſs degree ^**. It muſt be obſerved, that this unfortunate ſpecies of archi⯑tecture aroſe from the turbulence of the times in which it was in vogue; every body was deſirous of getting as near as poſſible to the protection of the caſtle, the houſes were crouded together, and I may ſay, piled one upon another, meerly on the principle of ſecurity.

The caſtle is antient, but ſtrong,Caſtle. placed on the ſummit of the hill, at the edge of a very deep pre⯑cipice. Strangers are ſhewn a very ſmall room, in which Mary Queen of Scots was delivered of James VI.

From this fortreſs is a full view of the city and its environs; a ſtrange proſpect of rich country, with vaſt rocks and mountains intermixed: on the ſouth and eaſt are the meadows, or the publick walks, Harriot's hoſpital, part of the town over⯑ſhadowed [48] by the ſtupendous rocks of Arthur's ſeat and Saluſbury' [...] Craigs, the Pentland hills at a few miles diſtance, and at a ſtill greater, thoſe of Muir⯑foot, whoſe ſides are covered with verdant turf.

To the north is a full view of the Firth of Forth, from Queen's-Ferry to its mouth, with its ſouthern banks covered with towns and villages. On the whole, the proſpect is ſingular, various and fine.

Reſervoir. The reſervoir of water ^* for ſupplying the city lies in the Caſtle-ſtreet, and is well worth ſeeing: the great ciſtern contains near two hundred and thirty tuns of water, which is conveyed to the ſeveral conduits, that are diſpoſed at proper diſ⯑tances in the principal ſtreets; theſe are conve⯑niences that few towns in North Britain are with⯑out.

In a ſmall ſquare, on the ſouth ſide of High-ſtreet, is the Parlement Cloſe, a ſmall ſquare, in which is the Parlement-Houſe,Advocate's Library. where the courts of juſtice are held. Below ſtairs is the Advocate's library, founded by Sir George Mackenzie, and now contains above thirty thouſand volumes, and ſeveral manuſcripts: among the more curious are the four Evangeliſts, very legible, notwithſtanding it is ſaid to be ſeveral hundred years old.

St. Jerome's Bible, wrote about the year 1100.

A Malabar book, wrote on leaves of plants.

A Turkiſh manuſcript, illuminated in ſome parts like a miſſal. Elogium in ſultan morad filium filii Soliman Turcici. Script. Conſtantinopoli. Anno Hegirae, 992.

[49] A Cartulary, or records of the monaſteries, ſome very antient.

A very large Bible, bound in four volumes; illuſtrated with ſcripture prints, by the firſt en⯑gravers, paſted in, and collected at a vaſt expence. There are beſides great numbers of antiquities, not commonly ſhewn, except enquired after.

The Luckenbooth row, which contains the Tol⯑booth, or city priſon, and the weighing-houſe, which brings in a revenue of 500l. per annum, ſtands in the middle of the High-ſtreet, and, with the guard⯑houſe, contributes to ſpoil as fine a ſtreet as moſt in Europe, being in ſome parts eighty feet wide, and finely built.

The exchange is a handſome modern building, in which is the cuſtom-houſe: the firſt is of no uſe, in its proper character; for the merchants al⯑ways chuſe ſtanding in the open ſtreet, expoſed to all kinds of weather.

The old cathedral is now called the New Church, and is divided into four places of worſhip; in one the Lords of the Seſſions attend: there is alſo a throne and a canopy for his Majeſty, ſhould he viſit this capital, and another for the Lord Com⯑miſſioner. There is no muſic either in this or any other of the Scotch churches, for Peg ſtill faints at the found of an organ.

The ſame church has a large tower, oddly ter⯑minated with a ſort of crown.

On the front of a houſe in the Nether Bow, are two fine profile heads of a man and woman,Roman heads. of Roman ſculpture, ſuppoſed to be thoſe of Severus [50] and Julia: but, as appears from an inſcription ^* made by the perſon who put them into the wall, were miſtaken for Adam and Eve.

Near the Trone church are the remains of the houſe once inhabited by Mary Steuart; now a tavern.

At the end of the Cannongate-Street ſtands Holy-Rood palace,Holy-Road Houſe originally an abby founded by David I, in 1128. The towers on the N. W. ſide were erected by James V. together with other buildings, for a royal reſidence: according to the editor of Cambden, great part, except the towers above⯑mentioned, were burnt by Cromwell; but the other towers, with the reſt of this magnificent palace, as it now ſtands, were executed by Sir William Bruce, by the directions of Charles II. within is a beauti⯑full ſquare, with piazzas on every ſide. It contains great numbers of fine apartments; ſome, that are called the King's, are in great diſorder; the reſt are granted to ſeveral of the nobility.

In the Earl of Breadalbane's, are ſome excellent portraits, particularly three full lengths, remark⯑ably fine, by Vandyck, of

And by Sir Peter Lely, the Duke and Dutcheſs of Lauderdale, and Edward Earl of Jerſey. There [51] is beſides a very good head of a boy, by Morrillio, and ſome views of the fine ſcenes near his Lord⯑ſhip's ſeat at Taymouth.

At Lord Dunmore's lodgings is a very large piece of Charles I. and his Queen going to ride, with the ſky ſhowering roſes on them; a Black holds a grey horſe, a boy a ſpaniel, with ſeveral other dogs ſporting round: the Queen is painted with a love⯑lock, and with browner hair and complection, and younger, than I ever ſaw her drawn. It is a good piece, and ſaid to be done by Vandyck? in the ſame place are two other good portraits of Charles II. and James VII.

The gallery of this palace takes up one ſide, and is filled with coloſſal portraits of the Kings of Scot⯑land.

In the old towers are ſhowen the appartments where the murther of David Rizzo was committed.

That beautifull piece of gothic architecture the church,Chapel. or chapel, of Holy-Rood-Abby, is now a ruin, the roof having fell in, by a moſt ſcandalous neglect, notwithſtanding money had been granted by Government to preſerve it entire. Beneath the ruins lie the bodies of James II. and James V. Henry Darnly, and ſeveral perſons of rank: and the inſcriptions on ſeveral of their tombs are preſerved by Maitland. A gentleman informed me, that ſome years ago he had ſeen the remains of the bodies, but in a very decayed ſtate; the beards remained on ſome; and that the bones of Henry Darnly proved their owner, by their great ſize, for he was ſaid to be ſeven feet high.

[52] Parks. Near this palace are the Parks firſt incloſed by James V. within are the vaſt rocks ^* known by the names of Arthur's Seat and Saluſbury's Craigs; their fronts exhibit a romantic and wild ſcene of broken rocks and vaſt precipices, which from ſome points ſeem to over-hang the lower parts of the city. Great columns of ſtone, from forty to fifty feet in length, and about two feet in diameter, regularly pentagonal, or hexagonal, hang down the face of ſome of theſe rocks almoſt perpendicularly, or with a very ſlight dip, and form a ſtrange appearance. Conſiderable quantities of ſtone from the quarries have been cut and ſent to London for paving the ſtreets, its great hardneſs rendering it excellent for that purpoſe. Beneath theſe hills are ſome of the moſt beautifull walks about Edinburgh, command⯑ing a fine proſpect over ſeveral parts of the country.

On one ſide of the Park are the ruins of St. An⯑thony's chapel, once the reſort of numberleſs vo⯑taries.

The ſouth part of the city has ſeveral things worth viſiting.Herriot's Hoſ⯑pital. Herriot's hoſpital is a fine old building, much too magnificent for the end pro⯑poſed, that of educating poor children: it was founded by George Herriot, jeweller to James II. who followed that monarch to London, and made a large fortune. There is a fine view of the caſtle and the ſloping part of the city from the front: the gardens were formerly the reſort of the gay; and there the Scotch Poets often laid, in their co⯑medies, the ſcenes of intrigue.

[53] In the church-yard of the Grey Friers is the mo⯑nument of Sir George Mackenſie, a rotunda; with a multitude of other tombs; this, and another near the Cannon-gate being the only caemeteries to this populous city.

The college is a mean building; but no one re⯑ſides in it except the Principal,College. whoſe houſe is ſup⯑poſed to be on the ſite of that in which George Darnly was murdered, then belonging to the Provoſt of the Kirk of Field. The ſtudents of the univerſity are diſperſed over the town, and are about ſix hundred in number: they wear no habit, nor are they ſubject to any regulations; but, as they are for the moſt part volunteers for knowledge, few of them deſert her ſtandards. There are twenty-two profeſſors of different ſciences, moſt of whom read lectures: all the chairs are very ably filled; thoſe in particular which relate to the ſtudy of medicine, as is evident from the number of ingenious phyſicians, eleves of this univerſity, who prove the abilities of their maſ⯑ters. The Muſaeum had, for many years, been neglected; but, by the aſſiduity of the preſent Pro⯑feſſor of natural hiſtory, bids fair to become a moſt inſtructive repoſitory of the naturalia of theſe king⯑doms.

The royal infirmary is a ſpatious and handſome aedifice,Infirmary. capable of containing two hundred patients. The operation-room is particularly convenient, the council-room elegant, with a good picture in it of Provoſt Drummond. From the cupolo of this building is a fine proſpect, and a full view of the city.

[54] Not far from hence are twenty-ſeven acres of ground, deſigned for a ſquare, called George Square: a ſmall portion is at preſent built, conſiſting of ſmall but commodious houſes, in the Engliſh faſhion. Such is the ſpirit of emprovement, that within theſe three years ſixty thouſand pounds have been expended in houſes in the modern taſte, and twenty thouſand in the old.

Watſon's hoſpital ſhould not be forgot: a large good building, behind the Grey Friers church; an excellent inſtitution for the educating and appren⯑ticing the children of decayed merchants; who, after having ſerved their time with credit, receive fifty pounds to ſet up with.

The meadows, or public walks, are well planted, and are very extenſive: theſe are the mall of Edin⯑burgh, as Comely Gardens are its Vauxhall.

The Cowgate is a long ſtreet, running parallel with the High Street, beneath the ſteep ſouthern declivity of the city, and terminates in the Graſs-Market, a wide ſtreet, where cattle are ſold, and criminals executed. On ſeveral of the houſes are ſmall iron croſſes, which, I was informed, denoted that they once belonged to the Knights of St. John.

On the north ſide of the city lies the new town, which is planned with great judgement, and will prove a magnificent addition to Edinburgh: the houſes in St. Andrew's ſquare coſt from 1800l. to 2000l. each, and one or two 4000 or 5000l. They are all built in the modern ſtyle, and are free from the inconveniences attending the old city.

[55] Theſe improvements are connected to the city by a very beautifull bridge, whoſe higheſt arch is ninety-five feet high.

In the walk of this evening, I paſſed by a deep and wide hollow beneath Calton Hill, the place where thoſe imaginary criminals, witches and for⯑cerers, in leſs enlightened times, were burnt; and where, at feſtive ſeaſons, the gay and galant held their tilts and tournaments: at one of theſe, it is ſaid, that the Earl of Bothwell made the firſt im⯑preſſion on the ſuſceptible heart of Mary Stuart, having galopped into the ring down the dangerous ſteeps of the adjacent hill; he ſeemed to think that

Theſe deſperate feats were the humour of the times of chivalry: Brantome relates, that the Duc⯑de Nemours galopped down the ſteps of the Sainte Chappel at Paris, to the aſtoniſhment of the be⯑holders. The men cultivated every exerciſe that could preſerve or improve their bodily ſtrength; the ladies, every art that tended to improve their charms: Mary is reported to have uſed a bath of white wine; a cuſtom ſtrange, but not without precedent. Jaques du Fouilloux, enraptured with a country girl enumerating the arts which ſhe ſcorned to uſe to improve her perſon, mentions this:

[56] At a ſmall walk's diſtance from Colton Hill lies the new botanic garden ^*, conſiſting of five acres of ground, a green-houſe fifty feet long, two tem⯑perate rooms, each twelve feet, and two ſtoves, each twenty-eight: the ground riſes to the north, and defends the plants from the cold winds: the ſoil a light ſand, with a black earth on the ſurface. It is finely ſtocked with plants, whoſe arrangement and cultivation do much credit to my worthy friend Dr. Hope, Profeſſor of Botany, who planned and executed the whole. It was begun in 1764, being founded by the munificence of his preſent Majeſty, who granted fifteen hundred pounds for that pur⯑poſe.

During this week's ſtay at Edinburgh, the prices of proviſions were as follow:

• Beef, from 5d. to 3d. 1/2.
• Mutton, from 4d. to 3d. 1/2.
• Veal, from 5d. to 3d.
• Lamb, 2d. 1/2.
• Bacon, 7d.
• Butter, in ſummer, 8d. in winter, 1s.
• Pigeons, per dozen, from 8d. to 5s.
• Chickens, per pair, 8d. to 1s.
• A fowl, 1s. 2d.
• Green gooſe, 3s.
• Fat gooſe, 2s. 6d.
• Large turky, 4s. or 5s.
• Pig, 2s.
• Coals, 5d. or 6d. per hundred, delivered.

[57] Many fine excurſions may be made at a ſmall diſtance from this city. Leith, a large town,LEITH. about two miles north, lies on the Firth, is a flouriſhing place, and the port of Edinburgh. The town is dirty and ill built, and chiefly inhabited by ſailors; but the pier is very fine, and is a much-frequented walk. The races were at this time on the ſands, near low-water mark: conſidering their vicinity to a great city and populous country, the meeting was far from numerous; a proof that diſſipation has not generally infected the manners of the North Britons.

Craigmellar caſtle is ſeated on a rocky eminence, about two miles ſouth of Edinburgh, is ſquare, and has towers at each corner. Some few apartments are yet inhabited; but the reſt of this great pile is in ruins.

Newbottle, the ſeat of the Marquiſs of Lothian, is a pleaſant ride of a few miles from the capital. It was once a Ciſtercian abby, founded by David I. in 1140; but, in 1591, was erected into a lordſhip, in favor of Sir Mark Ker, ſon of Sir Walter Ker, of Ceſsford. The houſe lies in a warm bottom, and, like moſt other of the houſes of the Scotch nobility, reſembles a French Chateau, by having a village or little paltry town adjacent. The ſituation is very favorable to trees, as appears by the vaſt ſize of thoſe near the houſe; and I was informed, that fruit ripens here within ten days as early as at Chelſea.

The Marquiſs poſſeſſes a moſt valuable collection of portraits, many of them very fine, and almoſt all very inſtructive: a large half-length of Henry Darnly repreſents him tall, aukward and gauky, with a ſtupid, inſipid countenance; moſt likely [58] drawn after he had loſt, by intemperance and de⯑bauchery, thoſe charms which captivated the heart of the amorous Mary.

A head of her mother, Marie de Guiſe; not leſs beautifull than her daughter.

A head of Madame Monpenſier, and of ſeveral other illuſtrious perſons, who graced the court of Louis XIII.

Prince Rupert and Prince Maurice, in one piece. Some ſmall portraits, ſtudies of Vandyk; among which is one of William Earl of Pembroke, of whom Lord Clarendon gives ſo advantageous a character.

A beautifull half-length of Henrietta, Queen of Charles I. her charms almoſt apologize for the com⯑pliances of the uxorious monarch.

His daughter, the Dutcheſs of Orleans.

The wife of Philip the bold, inſcribed Marga Mala, Lodo Mala.

Head of Robert Car, Earl of Somerſet; the coun⯑tenance eſſeminate, ſmall features, light flaxen or yellowiſh hair, and a very ſmall beard: is an ori⯑ginal of that worthleſs favorite, and proves that the figure given as his among the illuſtrious heads is erroneous, the laſt being repreſented as a robuſt black man.

His father, Sir Robert Car.

An Earl of Somerſet, of whom I could get no account; handſome, with long light hair inclining to yellow: a head.

A full length of James I. by Jameſon. Another of Charles I. when young, in rich armour, black and gold: a capital piece.

Lady Tuſton; a fine half length.

[59] Earl Morton, regent: half-length; a yellow beard.

Two very curious half-lengths on wood: one of a man with a long forked black beard; his jacket ſlaſhed down in narrow ſtripes from top to bottom, and the ſtripes looſe: the other with a black full beard, the ſame ſort of ſtripes, but drawn tight by a girdle.

The Doge of Venice, by Titian.

Three by Morillio; boys and girls in low life.

A remarkable fine piece of our three firſt circum⯑navigators, Drake, Hawkins and Candiſh, half length.

The heads of Mark Earl of Lothian, and his lady, by Sir Antonio More.

Mark Ker, prior of Newbottle, who, at the re⯑formation, complied with the times, and got the eſtate of the abby.Subterraneous rooms.

In the woods adjacent to this ſeat are ſome ſub⯑terraneous apartments and paſſages cut out of the live rock. A few miles diſtant from there, near Hawthorn-Den, the reſidence of the celebrated poet Drummond, ^* are, as I was informed, others of the ſame nature, but of greater extent, which Doctor Stukeley ^** calls a Pictiſh caſtle. Theſe places, in fact, were excavated by the antient inhabitants of the country, either as receptacles for their provi⯑ſions, or for retreats for themſelves or families, in time of war, in the ſame manner as Tacitus relates was the cuſtom of the Germans ^†.

[60] Two or three miles diſtant from Newbottle is Dalkeith, DALKEITH. a ſmall town, adjoining to Dalkeith-houſe, the ſeat of the Duke of Buccleugh: originally the property of the Douglaſes, and was, when in form of a caſtle, of great ſtrength; and, during the time of the Regent Morton's retreat, ſtyled the Lion's Den.

The portraits at Dalkeith are numerous, and ſome good: among others, the Firſt Duke of Richmond and his Dutcheſs.

The Dutcheſs of Cleveland.

Counteſs of Buccleugh, mother to the Dutcheſs of Monmouth, and Lady Egglinton, her ſiſter.

The Dutcheſs and her two ſons: the Dutcheſs of York; her hand remarkably fine: the Dutcheſs of Lenox.

Mrs. Suſanna Waters, mother of the Duke of Monmouth, with his picture in her hand.

Dutcheſs of Cleveland and her ſon, an infant; ſhe in character of a Madonna: fine.

The Duke of Monmouth, in character of a young St. John.

Lord Strafford and his Secretary; a ſmall ſtudy of Vandyk.

Henry VIII. and Queen Catherine, with the di⯑vorce in her hand; two ſmall pieces, by Holbein. Anna Bullein, by the ſame, dreſſed in a black gown, large yellow netted ſleeves, in a black cap, peaked behind.

Lady Jane Gray, with long hair, black and very thick: not handſome; but the virtues and the in⯑tellectual perfections of that ſuffering innocent, more than ſupplied the abſence of perſonal charms.

[61] A large ſpirited picture of the Duke of Monmouth on horſeback. The ſame in armour. All his pic⯑tures have a handſome likeneſs of his father.

Dutcheſs of Richmond, with a bow in her hand, by Sir Peter Lely. A fine head of the late Duke of Ormond.

A beautiful head of Mary Stewart; the face a ſharp face, thin and young; yet has a likeneſs to ſome others of her pictures done before misfor⯑tunes had altered her; her dreſs a ſtrait gown, open at the top and reaching to her ears, a ſmall cap, and ſmall ruff, with a red roſe in her hand.

In this palace is a room entirely furniſhed by Charles II. on occaſion of the marriage of Monmouth with the heireſs of the houſe^*.

At Smeton, another ſeat of the Duke of Buccleugh, a mile diſtant from the firſt, is a fine half-length of General Monk looking over his ſhoulder, with his back towards you: he reſided long at Dalkeith, when he commanded in Scotland.

Nell Gwinne, looſely attired.

A fine marriage of St. Catherine, by Vandyk.

Left Edinburgh, and paſs'd beneath the caſtle,JULY 24. whoſe height and ſtrength, in my then ſituation, appeared to great advantage. The country I paſt through was well cultivated, the fields large, but moſtly incloſed with ſtone walls; for hedges are not yet become univerſal in this part of the kingdom: it is not a century ſince they were known here. Reach the

[62] South-Ferry, a ſmall village on the banks of the Firth, which ſuddenly is contracted to the breadth of two miles by the jutting out of the land on both ſhores; but almoſt inſtantly widens, towards the weſt, into a fine and extenſive bay. The proſpect on each ſide is very beautifull; a rich country, frequently diverſified with towns, villages, caſtles, and gentlemen's ſeats ^*. There is beſide a vaſt view up and down the Firth, from its extremity, not remote from Sterling, to its mouth near Mey iſle; in all, about ſixty miles.

This Ferry is alſo called Queen's-Ferry, being the paſſage much uſed ^** by Margaret, queen to Mal⯑com III. and ſiſter to Edgar Etheling, her reſidence being at Dumferline. Croſs over in an excellent paſſage-boat; obſerve midway the little iſle called Inch-Garvey, with the ruin of a ſmall caſtle. An arctic gull flew near the boat, purſued by other gulls, as birds of prey are: this is the ſpecies that perſecutes and purſues the leſſer kinds, till they mute through fear, when it catches up their excre⯑ments e'er they reach the water: the boatmen, on that account, ſtyled it the dirty Aulin.

Landed in the ſhire of Fife ^†, at North Ferry, Granite quarry. near which are the great granite quarries, which help to ſupply the ſtreets of London with paving ſtones; many ſhips then waiting near, in order to take in their lading. The granite lies in great per⯑pendicular ſtacks; above which, a reddiſh earth [63] filled with friable micaceous nodules. The granite itſelf is very hard, and is all blaſted with gun⯑powder: the cutting into ſhape for paving coſts two ſhillings and eight-pence per tun, and the freight to London ſeven ſhillings.

The country, as far as Kinroſs, is very fine, con⯑ſiſting of gentle riſings; much corn, eſpecially Bear; but few trees, except about a gentleman's ſeat, called Blair, where there are great and flou⯑riſhing plantations. Near the road are the laſt col⯑lieries in Scotland, except the inconſiderable works in the county of Sutherland.

Kinroſs is a ſmall town, ſeated in a large plain, bounded by mountains; the houſes and trees are ſo intermixed as to give it an agreeable appearance. It has ſome manufactures of linnen and cutlery ware. At this time was a meeting of juſtices, on a ſingular occaſion: a vagrant had been, not long before, ordered to be whipped; but ſuch was the point of honor among the common people, that no one could be perſuaded to go to Perth for the executioner, who lived there: to preſs, I may ſay, two men for that ſervice was the cauſe of the meeting; ſo Mr. Boſ⯑well ^* may rejoice to find the notion of honor pre⯑vale in as exalted a degree among his own coun⯑trymen as among the virtuous Corſicans.

Not far from the town is the houſe of Kinroſs, built by the famous architect Sir William Bruce, for his own reſidence, and was the firſt good houſe in North Britain: it is a large, elegant, but plain building; the hall is fifty-two feet long, the grounds about it well planted, the fine lake adjacent; ſo [64] that it is capable of being made as delightfull a place as any in North Britain.

Lough-Leven, a magnificent piece of water, very broad, but irregularly indented, is about twelve miles in circumference, and its greateſt depth about twenty-four fathoms: is finely bounded by moun⯑tains on one ſide; on the other, by the plain of Kinroſs, and prettily embelliſhed with ſeveral groves, moſt fortunately diſpoſed. Some iſlands are diſ⯑perſed in this great expanſe of water; one of which is large enough to feed ſeveral head of cattle; but the moſt remarkable is that diſtinguiſhed by the captivity of Mary Stuart, Loch-leven caſtle. which ſtands almoſt in the middle of the lake. The caſtle ſtill remains; conſiſts of a ſquare tower, a ſmall yard with two round towers, a chapel, and the ruins of a building, where, it is ſaid, the unfortunate Princeſs was lodged. In the ſquare tower is a dungeon with a vaulted room above, over which had been three other ſto⯑ries. Some trees are yet remaining on this little ſpot; probably coeval with Mary, under whoſe ſhade ſhe may have ſat, expecting her eſcape at length effected by the enamoured Douglas ^*. This caſtle had before been a royal reſidence, but not for captive monarchs; having been granted from the crown by Robert III. to Douglas, Laird of Loch-Leven; but had been originally a ſeat of the Culdees.

[65] The fiſh of this lake are Pike, ſmall Perch, fine Eels,Fiſh & birds. and moſt excellent Trouts; the beſt and the reddeſt I ever ſaw; the largeſt about ſix pounds in weight. The fiſhermen gave me an account of a ſpecies they called the Gally Trout, which are only caught from October to January; are ſplit, ſalted and dried, for winter proviſion: by the deſcription, they certainly were our Char, only of a larger ſize than any we have in England, or Wales, ſome being two feet and a half long. The birds that breed on the iſles are Herring Gulls, Pewit Gulls, and great Terns, called here Pictarnes.

Lay at a good inn, a ſingle houſe, about half a mile North of Kinroſs.

Made an excurſion about ſeven miles weſt,JULY 25. Rumbling Brig. to ſee the rumbling brig at Glen-devon, a bridge of one arch, ſlung over a chaſm worn by the river Devon, about eighty feet deep, very narrow, and horrible to look down; the bottom, in many parts, is covered with fragments of rocks; in others, the waters are viſible, guſhing between the ſtones with great vio⯑lence: the ſides, in many places, project, and al⯑moſt lock in each other; trees ſhoot out in various ſpots, and contribute to encreaſe the gloom of the glen, while the ear is filled with the cawing of daws, the cooing of wood-pigeons, and the impetuous noiſe of the waters.

A mile lower down is the Cawdron Glen: here the river,Cawdron Glen. after a ſhort fall, drops on rocks hollowed in a ſtrange manner into large and deep cylindric cavities, open on one ſide, or formed into great circular cavities, like cauldrons ^*; from whence [66] the name of the place: one in particular has the appearance of a vaſt brewing veſſel; and the water, by its great agitation, has acquired a yellow ſcum, exactly reſembling the yeſty working of malt liquor. Juſt beneath this the water darts down about thirty feet in form of a great white ſheet: the rocks below widen conſiderably, and their clifty ſides are fringed with wood. Beyond is a view of a fine meadowy vale, and the diſtant mountains near Sterling.

Two miles north is Caſtle Campbell, Caſtle Campbell. ſeated on a ſteep peninſulated rock between vaſt mountains, having to the ſouth a boundleſs view through a deep glen ſhagged with bruſh wood; for the foreſts that once covered the country are now entirely de⯑ſtroyed. Formerly, from its darkſome ſituation, this pile was called the caſtle of Gloom; and all the names of the adjacent places were ſuitable: it was ſeated in the pariſh of Dolor, was bounded by the glens of care, and waſhed by the birns of ſorrow. This caſtle, with the whole territory, belonging to the family of Argyle, underwent all the calamities of civil war in 1645; for its rival, the Marquis of Montroſe, carried fire and ſword through the whole eſtate. The caſtle was ruined; and its magnificent reliques exiſt, as a monument of the horror of the times. No wonder then that the Marquis expe⯑rienced ſo woeful and ignominious a fate, when he fell into the power of ſo exaſperated a chieftain.

Returned to my inn along the foot of the Ochil hills, whoſe ſides were covered with a fine verdure, and fed great numbers of cattle and ſheep. The country below full of oats, and in a very improving ſtate: the houſes of the common people decent, but [67] moſtly covered with ſods; ſome were covered both with ſtraw and ſod. The inhabitants extremely civil, and never failed offering brandy, or whey, when I ſtopt to make enquiries at any of their houſes.

In the afternoon croſſed a branch of the ſame hills, which yielded plenty of oats; deſcended into Straith-earn, a beautifull vale, about thirty miles in length,Straith-earn. full of rich meadows and corn fields, divided by the river Earn, which ſerpentines finely through the middle, falling into the Tay, of which there is a fight at the eaſt end of the vale. It is prettily diverſified with groves of trees and gentlemen's houſes; among which, towards the weſt end, is Caſtle Drummond, the forfeited ſeat of the Earl of Perth.

Caſtle Duplin ^*; the reſidence of the Earl of Kinnouly ſeated on the north ſide of the vale, on the edge of a ſteep glen. Only a ſingle tower re⯑mains of the old caſtle, the reſt being modernized. The front commands a pleaſing view of the vale; behind are plantations, extending ſeveral miles in length; all flouriſh greatly, except thoſe of aſh. I remarked in the woods, ſome very large cheſnuts, horſe-cheſnuts, ſpruce and ſilver firs, cedar and arbor vitae. Broad-leaved laburnum thrives in this country greatly, grows to a great ſize, and the wood is uſed in ſineering.

Fruits ſucceed here very indifferently;Fruit even non⯑pareils require a wall to ripen: grapes, figs, and late [68] peaches, will not ripen: the winters begin early and end late, and are attended with very high winds. I was informed that labor is dear here,Labor. notwithſtand⯑ing it is only eight-pence a day; the common people not being yet got into a method of working, ſo do very little for their wages. Notwithſtanding this, improvements are carried on in theſe parts with great ſpirit, both in planting and in agriculture. Lord Kinnoul planted laſt year not ſewer than eighty thou⯑ſand trees, beſides Scotch firs; ſo provides future foreſts for the benefit of his ſucceſſors, and the em⯑belliſhment of his country. In reſpect to agricul⯑ture, there are difficulties to ſtruggle with, for the country is without either coal or lime-ſtone; ſo that the lime is brought from the eſtate of the Earl of Elgin, near Dumferline, who, I was told, drew a conſiderable revenue from the kilns.

In Caſtle Duplin are ſome very good pictures; a remarkable one of Luther, Bucer, and Catherine the nun, by Georgiani di Caſtel franco.

A fine head of a ſecular prieſt, by Titian. St. Nicholas bleſſing three children. Two of cattle, by Roſa di Tivoli. A head of Spencer. Ruben's head, by himſelf. A fine head of Butler, by Sir Peter Lely. Of the old Counteſs of Deſmond, by Rembrandt. Mrs. Toſts, in the character of St. Ca⯑therine, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Sir George Haye, of Maginnis, in armour, 1640; done at Rome by L. Fer⯑dinand. Haye, Earl of Carlifle, in Charles the Firſt's time, young and very handſome, by Cornelius Janſen. The ſecond Earl of Kinnoul, by Vandyk. Chancellor Haye, by Mytens. A good portrait of Lord Treaſurer Oxford, by Richardſon. And a beautifull miniature of Sir John Earnly.

[69] Aſcended the hill of Moncrief; JULY 27. Hill of Mon⯑crief. the proſpect from thence is the glory of Scotland, and well merits the eulogia given it for the variety and richneſs of its views. On the ſouth and weſt appear Straithern, embelliſhed with the ſeats of Lord Kinnoul, Lord Rollo, and of ſeveral other gentlemen, the Carſe, or rich plain of Gowrie, Stormont hills, and the hill of Kinnoul, whoſe vaſt cliff is remarkable for its beau⯑tifull pebbles. The maeanders of the Ern, which winds more than any river I at this time had ſeen, are moſt enlivening additions to the ſcene. The laſt turn it takes forms a fine peninſula prettily planted, and juſt beyond it joins the Tay, whoſe aeſtuary lies full in view, the ſea cloſing the proſpect on this ſide.

To the north lies the town of Perth, with a view of part of its magnificent bridge; which, with the fine woods called Perth Parks, the vaſt plain of Straith-Tay, the winding of that noble river, its iſlands, and the grand boundary, formed by the diſtant highlands, finiſh this matchleſs ſcene. The inhabitants of Perth are far from being blind to the beauties of their river; for with ſingular pleaſure they relate the tradition of the Roman army, when it came in fight of the Tay ^*, burſting into the ex⯑clamation of, Ecce Tiberim.

On approaching the town are ſome pretty walks handſomely planted, and at a ſmall diſtance, the remains of ſome works of Cromwel, called Oliver's Mount.

PERTH is large, and in general well built;PERTH two of the ſtreets are remarkably fine; in ſome of the [70] leſſer are yet a few wooden houſes in the old ſtyle; but as they decay, the magiſtrates prohibit the re⯑building them in the old way. There is but one pariſh, which has two churches, beſides meetings for ſeparatiſts, who are very numerous. One church, which belonged to a monaſtery, is very antient: not a veſtige of the laſt is now to be ſeen; for the diſciples of that rough apoſtle Knox made a general deſolation of every aedifice that had given ſhelter to the worſhippers of the church of Rome: it being one of his maxims, to pull down the neſts, and the rooks would fly away.

The flouriſhing ſtate of Perth is owing to two accidents: the firſt, that of numbers of Cromwel's wounded officers and ſoldiers chuſing to reſide here, after he left the kingdom, who introduced a ſpirit of induſtry among the people: the other cauſe was the long continuance of the Earl of Mar's army here in 1715, which occaſioned vaſt ſums of money being ſpent in the place: but this town, as well as all Scotland, dates its proſperity from the year 1745, the government of this part of Great Britain having never been ſettled till a little after that time. The rebellion was a diſorder violent in its operation, but ſalutary in its effects.

The trade of Perth is conſiderable:Trade. it exports annually one hundred and fifty thouſand pounds worth of linnen, ten thouſand of wheat and barley, and about the ſame in cured ſalmon. That fiſh is taken there in vaſt abundance; three thouſand have been caught in one morning, weighing, one with another, ſixteen pounds; the whole capture, forty⯑eight thouſand pounds. The fiſhery begins at St. [71] Andrew's Day, and ends Auguſt 26th, old ſtyle. The rents of the fiſheries amount to three thouſand pounds per annum.

I was informed that ſmelts come up this river in May and June.

There has been in theſe parts a very great fiſhery of pearl, got out of the freſh-water muſcles. From the year 1761 to 1764,Pearl. 10,000l. worth were ſent to London, and ſold from 10s. to 1l. 16s. per ounce. I was told that a pearl has been taken there that weighed 33 grains; but this fiſhery is at preſent exhauſted, from the avarice of the under⯑takers: it once extended as far as Lough-Tay.

Gowrie Houſe is ſhewn to all ſtrangers; formerly the property and reſidence of the Earl of Gowrie, whoſe tragical end and myſterious conſpiracy (if con⯑ſpiracy there was) are ſtill freſh in the minds of the people of Perth. At preſent the houſe is occupied by ſome companies of artillery. I was ſhewn the ſtaircaſe where the unhappy nobleman was killed,Gowrie con⯑ſpiracy. the window the frighted monarch James roared out of, and that he eſcaped through, when he was ſaved from the fury of the populace, by Baily Roy, a friend of Gowrie's, who was extremely beloved in the town.

From the little traditions, preſerved in the palace, it ſeems as if Gowrie had not the left intent of mur⯑thering the King: on the day his Majeſty came to Perth, the Earl was engaged to a wedding-dinner with the Dean of Guild: when the account of the king's deſign reached him he changed color, on being taken ſo unprovided; but the Dean forced him to accept the nuptial feaſt, which was ſent over to the Earl's houſe.

[72] When the king fled he paſſed by the ſeat of Sir William Moncrief, near Ern-bridge, who happening to be walking out at that time, heard from the mouth of his intrepid Majeſty the whole relation; but the Knight found it ſo marvellous and ſo diſ⯑jointed, as plainly to tell the King, that if it was a true ſtory, it was a very ſtrange one.

Gowrie was a moſt accompliſhed gentleman: after he had finiſhed his ſtudies he held the Pro⯑feſſor of Philoſophy's chair for two years, in one of the Italian univerſities.

Croſs the Tay on a temporary bridge; the ſtone bridge, which is to conſiſt of nine arches, being at this time unfiniſhed; the largeſt arch is ſeventy-ſix feet wide; when complete, it promiſes to be a moſt magnificent ſtructure. The river here is very vio⯑lent, and admits of ſcarce any navigation above; but ſhips of eighty or ninety tuns come as far as the town.

Scone lies about a mile and half higher up,Scone. on the eaſt bank of the river. There was once here an abby of great antiquity ^*, which was burnt by the reforming zealots of Dundee. The preſent palace was begun by Earl Gowrie; but, on his death, being granted by James VI. to his favorite, Sir David Murray, of Goſpatrie, was completed by him; who, in gratitude to the king, has, in ſeveral parts of the houſe, put up the royal arms. The houſe is built round two courts; the dining-room is large and handſome, has an antient but magnificent chimney-piece, the king's arms, with this motto, Nobis haec invicta miſerunt centum ſex Proavi.

[73] Beneath are the Murray arms. In the drawing⯑room is ſome good old tapeſtry, with an excellent figure of Mercury. In a ſmall bed-chamber is a medly ſcripture-piece in needle-work, with a border of animals, pretty well done; the work of Mary Stuart, during her confinement in Loch-leven caſtle: but the houſe in general is in a manner unfurniſhed.

The gallery is about a hundred and fifty-five feet long; the top arched, divided into compartments, filled with paintings, in water colors, of different ſorts of huntings; and that Nimrod, James VI. and his train, appear in every piece.

Till the deſtruction of the abby, the kings of Scotland were crowned here, ſitting in the famous wooden chair, which Edward I. tranſported to Weſtminſter-Abby, much to the mortification of the Scots, who eſteemed it as their palladium. Charles II. before the battle of Worceſter, was crowned in the preſent chapel. The old Pretender reſided at Scone for a conſiderable time in 1715, and his ſon made it a viſit in 1745.

Re-paſſed the Tay at Bullion's Boat; viſited the field of Loncarty, celebrated for the great victory ^* obtained by the Scots over the Danes, Loncarty. by means of the gallant peaſant Hay and his two ſons, who, with no other-weapons than the yokes which they ſnatched from their oxen then at plough, firſt put a ſtop to the flight of their countrymen, and afterwards led them on to conqueſt. The noble family of Hay are deſcended from this ruſtic hero, and in memory of their action, bear for their arms the inſtrument [74] of their victory, with the alluſive motto of Sub jugo. There are on the ſpot ſeveral tumuli, in which are frequently found bones depoſited in looſe ſtones, diſpoſed in form of a coffin. Not remote is a ſpot which ſupplied me with far more agreeable ideas; a tract of ground, which in 1732 was a meer bog, but now converted into good meadows, and about fifty acres covered with linnen; ſeveral other parts with buildings, and all the apparatus of the linnen manufacture, extremely curious and worth ſeeing, carried on by the induſtrious family of the Sandi⯑mans, who annually make four hundred thouſand yards of linnen.

The country is good, full of barley, oats, and flax in abundance; but after a few miles travelling, is ſucceeded by a black heath: ride through a beau⯑tifull plantation of pines, and after deſcending an eaſy ſlope the plain beneath ſuddenly contracts it⯑ſelf into a narrow glen: the proſpect before me ſtrongly marked the entrance into the Highlands, the hills that bounded it on each ſide being lofty and rude.Birnam Wood. On the left was Birnam Wood,Dunſinane which ſeems never to have recovered the march its an⯑ceſtors made to Dunſinane: I was ſhewn at a great diſtance a high ridge of hills, where ſome remains of that famous fortreſs * (Macbeth's caſtle) are ſaid yet to exiſt.

Croſſed it in a boat, attended by a tame ſwan,JULY 28. which was perpetually ſolliciting our favours by put⯑ting its neck over the ſides of the ferry-boat. Land in the Duke of Athol's gardens, which are extremely pleaſing, waſhed by the river, and commanding from different parts of the walks the moſt beautifull and pictureſque views of wild and gloomy nature that can be conceived. Trees of all kinds grow here extremely well; and even ſo ſouthern a ſhrub as Portugal laurel flouriſhes greatly. In the gardens are the ruins of the cathedral, once a magnificent aedifice, as appears by the beautifull round pillars ſtill ſtanding; but the choir is preſerved, and at preſent uſed as a church. In the burial-place of the family is a large monument of the Marquis of Athol, hung with the arms of the numerous con⯑nections of the family. In another part is a tomb of an old biſhop.

On the other ſide the river is a pleaſing walk along the banks of the water of Bran ^*, a great and rapid torrent, full of immenſe ſtones. On a rock at the end of the walk is a neat building, impend⯑ing over a moſt horrible chaſm, into which the river precipitates itſelf with great noiſe and fury from a conſiderable height. The windows of the pavillion are formed of painted glaſs; ſome of the [76] panes are red, which makes the water reſemble a fiery cataract. About a mile further is another, rumbling brig, like, but inferior in grandeur, to that near Kinroſs.

The town of Dunkeld is ſmall, and has a ſmall linnen manufacture. Much company reſorts here, in the ſummer months, for the benefit of drinking goats milk and whey: I was informed here, that thoſe animals will eat ſerpents; as it is well known that ſtags do.

After a ride of two miles along a narrow ſtrait, amidſt trees, and often in fight of the Tay, was driven by rain into a fiſherman's hut, who enter⯑tained me with an account of his buſineſs: ſaid, he paid ten pounds per ann. for the liberty of two or three miles of the river; ſold, the firſt fiſh of the ſeaſon at three-pence a pound; after that, got three ſhillings per fiſh. The houſes in theſe parts began to be covered with broom, which laſts three or four years: their inſides mean, and very ſcantily furniſhed; but the owners civil, ſenſible, and of the quickeſt apprehenſions.

The ſtrait now widens into a vale plentifull in oats, barley and flax, and well peopled: on the right is the junction of the Tay and the Tumel: the channels of theſe rivers are wide, full of gravel, the mark of their devaſtation during floods. Due north is the road to Blair and Fort Auguſtus, through the noted paſs of Killicrankie; turn to the left; ride oppoſite to Caſtle Menzies: reach Tay-mouth, the ſeat of the Earl of Breadalbane.

[77] Taymouth ^* lies in a vale ſcarce a mile broad,JULY 29, &c. Taymouth very fertile, bounded on each ſide by high moun⯑tains finely planted. Thoſe on the ſouth are co⯑vered with trees, or with corn fields, far up their ſides. The hills on the north are planted with pines and other trees, and vaſtly ſteep, and have a very alpine look; but particularly reſemble the great ſlope oppoſite the grande Chartreuſe in Dau⯑phinè. His Lordſhip's policy ^** ſurrounds the houſe, which ſtands in the park, and is one of the few in which ſallow deer are ſeen.

The ground is in remarkable fine order, owing to his Lordſhip's aſſiduity in clearing it from ſtones, with which it was once covered. A Blaſter was in conſtant employ to blaſt the great ſtones with gun⯑powder; for, by reaſon of their ſize, there was no other method of removing them.

The Berceau walk is very magnificent,Walks. compoſed of great trees, forming a fine gothic arch; and pro⯑bably that ſpecies of architecture owed its origin to ſuch vaulted ſhades. The walk on the bank of the Tay is fifty feet wide, and two and twenty hundred yards long; but is to be continued as far as the junction of the Tay and the Lion, which is about as far more. The firſt runs on the ſides of the walk with great rapidity, is clear, but not color⯑leſs, for its pellucidneſs is like that of brown cryſtal; as is the caſe with moſt of the rivers of Scotland, which receive their tinge from the bogs.

[78] The Tay has here a wooden bridge two hundred feet long, leading to a white feat on the ſide of the oppoſite hill, commanding a fine view up and down Straith-Tay. The rich meadows beneath, the wind⯑ing of the river, the beginning of Lough-Tay, the diſcharge of the river out of it, the neat village and church of Kenmor, form a moſt pleaſing and mag⯑nificent proſpect.

The view from the temple of Venus is that of the lake,Lough-Tay. with a nearer ſight of the church and village, and the diſcharge of the river. The lake is about a mile broad, and about fifteen long, bounded on each ſide by lofty mountains; makes three great bends, which adds to its beauty. Thoſe on the ſouth are well planted, and finely cultivated high up; interſperſed with the habitations of the Highlanders, not ſingly, but in ſmall groupes, as if they loved ſociety or clanſhip: they are very ſmall, mean, and without windows or chimnies, and are the diſgrace of North Britain, as its lakes and rivers are its glory. Lough-Tay is, in many places, a hundred fathoms deep, and within as many yards of the ſhore, fifty-four.

Till the preſent year, this lake was ſuppoſed to be as incapable of freezing as Lough-Neſs, Lough-Earn, and Lough-Each; tho' Lough-Raynac, and even Lough-Fine, an arm of the ſea, often does. But in March laſt, ſo rigorous and uncommon was the cold, that about the 20th of that month this vaſt body of water was frozen over, in one part, from ſide to ſide, in the ſpace of one night; and ſo ſtrong was the ice, as greatly to damage a boat which was caught in it.

[79] Lough-Tay abounds with Pike, Perch, Eels, Sal⯑mon and Trout; of the laſt, ſome have been taken that weighed above thirty pounds. Of theſe ſpe⯑cies, the Highlanders abhor Eels, and alſo Lam⯑pries, fancying, from the form, that they are too nearly related to Serpents ^*.

The north ſide is leſs wooded, but more culti⯑vated. The vaſt hill of Laurs, with beds of ſnow on it, through great part of the year, riſes above the reſt, and the ſtill loftier mountain of Benmor cloſes the view far beyond the end of the lake. All this country abounds with game, ſuch as Grous, Ptarmigans ^**, Stags, and a peculiar ſpecies of Hare, which is found only on the ſummits of the higheſt hills,White Hare and never mixes with the common kind, which is frequent enough in the vales ^†. This ſpecies is grey in ſummer, white in winter; is ſmaller than the brown Hare, and more delicate meat.

The Ptarmigans inhabit the very ſummits of the higheſt mountains,Ptarmigan. amidſt the rocks, perching among the grey ſtones, and during ſummer are ſcarce to be diſtinguiſhed from them, by reaſon of their color. They ſeldom take long flights, but fly about like pigeons; are ſilly birds, and ſo tame as to ſuffer a ſtone to be ſlung at them without riſing. It is not neceſſary to have a dog to find them. They taſte ſo like a Grous, as to be ſcarce [80] diſtinguiſhable. During winter, their plumage, ex⯑cept a few feathers in the tail, are of a pure white, the color of the ſnow, in which they bury them⯑ſelves in heaps, as a protection from the rigorous air.

Royſton Crows,Birds. called here Hooded Crows, and in the Erſe, Feanagh, are very common, and reſide here the whole year. They breed in the hills, in all ſorts of trees; lay ſix eggs; have a thriller note than the common ſort; are much more miſchievous; pick out the eyes of lambs, and even of horſes, when engaged in bogs; but, for want of other food, will eat cranberries, and other mountain berries.

Ring Ouzels breed among the hills, and in au⯑tumn deſcend in flocks to ſeed on the berries of the wicken trees.

Sea Eagles breed in ruined towers, but quit the country in winter; the black Eagles continue there the whole year.

Taymouth is a large houſe, a caſtle modernized. The moſt remarkable part of its furniture is the works of the famous Jameſon ^*, the Scotch Vandyke, Jameſon. an eleve of this family. That ſingular performance of his, the genealogical picture, is in good pre⯑ſervation. Sir Duncan Campbell, Laird of Locbon, is placed recumbent at the foot of a tree, with a branch; on the right is a ſingle head of his eldeſt ſon, the chief of the Argyle family; but on the [82] various ramifications, are the names of his deſcen⯑dents, and along the body of the tree are nine ſmall heads, in oval frames, with the names on the margins, all done with great neatneſs: the ſecond ſon was firſt of the houſe of Breadalbane, which branched from the other about four hundred years ago. In a corner is inſcribed, The Geneologie of the houſe of Glenorquhie Quhairof is deſcendit ſundrie nobil & worthie houſes. Jameſon faciebat. 1635. Its ſize is eight feet by five. In the ſame room are about twenty heads of perſons of the family; among others, that of a lady, ſo very ugly, that a wag, on ſeeing it, with lifted hands pronounced, that ſhe was fearfully and wonderfully made. There are in the ſame houſe ſeveral heads by Jameſon; but many of them unfortunately ſpoiled in the mending.

In the library is a ſmall book, called, from the binding, the black book, with ſome beautifull draw⯑ings in it, on vellum, of the Breadalbane family, in water-colors. In the firſt page is old Sir Duncan, between two other figures; then follow ſeveral chiefs of the family, among whom is Sir Colin, Knight of Rhodes, who died 1480, aged 80. At the end is a manuſcript hiſtory of the family, end⯑ing, I think, in 1633.

JULY 30. Went to divine ſervice at Kinmore ^* church, which, with the village, was re-built, in the neateſt manner, by the preſent Lord Breadalbane: they ſtand beautifully on a ſmall headland, projecting into the lake. His Lordſhip permits the inhabi⯑tants to live rent-free, on condition they exerciſe ſome trade, and keep their houſes clean: ſo that, [83] by theſe terms, he not only ſaves the expence of ſending, on every trifling occaſion, to Perth or Crief, but has got ſome as good workmen, in com⯑mon trades, as any in his Majeſty's dominions. The congregation was numerous, decent, attentive, ſtill, well and neatly clad, and not a ragged or ſlovenly perſon among them. There were two ſer⯑vices, one in Engliſh, the other in Erſe. After the firſt, numbers of people, of both ſexes, went out of church, and fearing themſelves in the church⯑yard, made, in their motly habits, a gay and pic⯑tureſque appearance. The devotion of the com⯑mon people,Highland congregation. on the uſual days of worſhip, is as much to be admired, as their conduct at the ſacra⯑ment is to be cenſured. It is celebrated but once in a year; when there are, in ſome places, three thouſand communicants, and as many idle ſpecta⯑tors, as can crowd each ſide of a long table, and the elements are rudely ſhoven from one to another; and in ſome places, fighting and other indecencies enſue; it is often made a ſeaſon for debauchery; ſo, to this day, Jack cannot be perſuaded to eat his meat like a chriſtian ^*.

Every Sunday a collection is made for the ſick or neceſſitous; for poor's rates are unknown in every country pariſh in Scotland. Notwithſtanding the common people are but juſt rouzed from their na⯑tive indolence, very few beggars are ſeen in North Britain: either they are full maſters of the leſſon of being content with a very little; or, what is more probable, they are poſſeſſed of a ſpirit that will [84] ſtruggle hard with neceſſity before it will bend to the aſking of alms.

Viſited a pretty little iſland, tuſted with trees, in Loch-Tay, not far from the ſhore: on it are the ruins of a priory, or dependent on that at Scoone; found⯑ed in 1122, by Alexander the Firſt, in which were depoſited the remains of his Queen Sybilla, na⯑tural daughter to Henry I. it was founded by Alex⯑ander to have the prayers of the Monks for the re⯑poſe of his ſoul, and that of his royal confort ^*. To this iſland the Campbells retreated, during the ſuc⯑ceſſes of the Marquiſs of Montroſe, where they de⯑fended themſelves againſt that hero, which was one cauſe of his violent reſentment againſt the whole name.

Rode to Glen-lion; JULY 31. went by the ſide of the river ^† that gives name to it. It has now loſt its antient title of Duie, or Black, given it on account of a great battle between the Mackays and the Mac⯑gregors; after which, the conquerors are ſaid to have ſtained the water with red, by waſhing in it their bloody ſwords and ſpears. On the right is a rocky hill, called Shi-ballen, or the Paps. Enter Glen-lion through a ſtrait paſs: the vale is narrow, but fertile; the banks of the river ſteep, rocky, and wooded; through which appear the rapid water of the Lion. On the north is a round fortreſs, on the top of the hill; to which, in old times, the natives retreated, on any invaſion. A little further, on a plain, is a ſmall Roman camp ^‡, called by the High⯑landers [85] Fortingal, or the Fort of the Strangers: themſelves they ſtyle Na-fian, or deſcendents of Fingal. In Fortingal church are the remains of a prodigious yew-tree,Great yew. whoſe ruins meaſured fifty-ſix feet and a half in circumference.

Saw at a gentleman's houſe in Glen-lion, a curious walking-ſtaff, belonging to one of his anceſtors: it was iron caſed in leather, five feet long; at the top a neat pair of extended wings, like a caduceus; but, on being ſhook, a poniard, two feet nine inches long, darted out.

He alſo favoured me with the fight of a very antient brotche, which the Highlanders uſe, like the fibula of the Romans, to faſten their veſt: it is made of ſilver, is round, with a bar croſs the mid⯑dle, from whence are two tongues to faſten the ſolds of the garments: one ſide is ſtudded with pearl, or coarſe gems, in a very rude manner; on the other, are certain letters I could not make out.

Return ſouth, and come at once in fight of Loch-Tay. The day being very fine and calm, the whole ſcene was moſt beautifully repeated in the water. I muſt not omit that on the north ſide of this lake is a moſt excellent road, which runs the whole length of it, leading to Teindrum and Inve⯑raray, in Argyleſhire, and is the route which tra⯑vellers muſt take, who make what I call the petit tour ^* of Scotland. This whole road was made at the [86] ſole expence of the preſent Lord Breadalbane; who, to facilitate the travelling, alſo erected thirty-two ſtone-bridges over the torrents that ruſh from the mountains into the lake. They will find the whole country excell in roads,Roads. partly military, partly done by ſtatute labor, and much by the muniſicence of the great men.

I was informed, that Lord Breadalbane's eſtate was ſo extenſive that he could ride a hundred miles an end on it, even as far as the Weſt Sea, where he has alſo ſome iſlands. Theſe great properties are divided into diſtricts, called Officiaries: a ground officer preſides over each, and has three, four, or five hundred men under his care: he ſuperintends the duties due from each to their Lord, ſuch as fetching peat, bringing coal from Perth, &c. which they do, at their own expence, on horſes backs, travelling in ſtrings, the tail of one horſe being faſtened by a cord, which reaches to the head of the next: the horſes are little, and generally white or grey; and as the farms are very ſmall, it is com⯑mon for four people to keep a plough between them, each furniſhing a horſe, and this is called a horſe gang.

The north ſide of Loch-Tay is very populous; for in ſixteen ſquare miles are ſeventeen hundred and eighty-ſix ſouls: on the other ſide, about twelve hundred. The country, within theſe thirty years, is grown very induſtrious, and manufactures a great deal of thread. They ſpin with rocks ^*, which they do while they attend their cattle on the hills; [87] and, at the three or four fairs in the year, held at Taymouth, about ſixteen hundred pounds worth of yarn is ſold out of Breadalbane only.

Much of this may be owing to the good ſenſe and humanity of the chieftain; but much again is owing to the abolition of the ſeudal tenures, or vaſſalage; for before that was effected (which was done by the influence of a Chancellor ^*, whoſe memory Scotland gratefully adores for that ſervice) the Strong oppreſſed the Weak, the Rich the Poor. Courts indeed were held, and juries called; but juries of vaſſals, too dependent and too timid to be relied on for the execution of true juſtice.

Leave Taymouth; ford the Lion, AUG. 1. and ride above it thro' ſome woods: on the left burſts out a fine caſcade, in a deep hollow, covered with trees: at a ſmall diſtance to the weſt is Caſtle-Garth, a ſmall caſtle ſeated like caſtle Campbell, between two deep glens: keep aſcending a ſteep hill, but the corn country continues for a while: the ſcene then changes for a wild, black, and mountainous heath: deſcend into Raynach, a meadowy plain,Raynach, tolerably fertile: the lake of the ſame name extends from Eaſt to Weſt; is about eleven miles long, and one broad: the Northern banks appeared very barren; part of the Southern finely covered with a foreſt of pine and birch, the firſt natural woods I had ſeen of pines:Pine Foreſt. rode a good way into it, but obſerved no trees of any ſize, except a birch ſixteen feet in cir⯑cumference: the ground beneath the trees is co⯑vered [88] with heath, bilberies, and dwarf arbutus, whoſe gloſſy leaves make a pretty appearance: this place gives ſhelter to black game, and is at preſent the fartheſt Southern reſort of roes, for very few ever ſtraggle lower down: near theſe woods is a ſaw⯑mill, which brings in about 180l. per ann. the deal, which is the red ſort, is fold in plank to different parts of the country, carried on horſes backs, for the trees are now grown ſo ſcarce as not to admit of exportation ^*.

The lake affords no other fiſh than trouts, and bull trouts; the laſt, as I was informed, are ſome⯑times taken of the length of four feet and a half: many water fowl breed in the birns or little ſtreams that trickle into the lake; among others different ſort of grebes, and divers: I was told of one which the inhabitants call Turuvachal, that makes a great noiſe before ſtorms, and by their deſcription ſeems to be the Fluder of Geſner.

This country was once the property of Robertſon, The Poet Struan. of Struan, who had been in the rebellion of 1715; had his eſtate reſtored, but in 1745 rebelling a ſe⯑cond time, the country was burnt, and the eſtate annexed to the crown: he returned a few years af⯑ter, and died as he lived, a moſt abandoned ſot; notwithſtanding which he had a genius for po⯑etry, and left behind him a volume of elegies, and other pieces, in ſome of which he elegantly laments the ravages of war among his vaſſals, and the loſs of his favourite ſcenes, and in particular his foun⯑tain Argentine.

[89] The country is perfectly highland; and in ſpite of the intercourſe this and the neighboring parts have of late years had with the reſt of the world, it ſtill retains ſome of its antient cuſtoms and ſuperſti⯑tions;Superſtitions. they decline daily, but leaſt their memory ſhould be loſt, I ſhall mention ſeveral that are ſtill practiſed, or but very lately difuſed in the tract I had paſſed over. Such a record will have this advantage when the follies are quite extinct, in teaching the unſhackled and enlightened mind the difference between the pure ceremonies of religion, and the wild and anile flights of ſuperſtition.

The belief in ſpectres ſtill exiſts;Spectres. of which I had a remarkable proof while I was in the county of Breadalbane: a poor viſionary, who had been working in his cabbage-garden, imagined that he was raiſed ſuddenly into the air, and conveyed over a wall into an adjacent corn-field; that he found himſelf ſurrounded by a crowd of men and women, many of whom he knew to have been dead ſome years, and who appeared to him ſkimming over the tops of the unbended corn, and mingling together like bees going to hive: that they ſpoke an unknown language, and with a hollow found: that they very roughly puſhed him to and fro; but on his utter⯑ing the name of GOD, all vaniſhed but a female ſprite, who ſeizing him by the ſhoulder, obliged him to promiſe an aſſignation, at that very hour, that day ſevenight: that he then found that his hair was all tied in double knots, and that he had almoſt loſt the uſe of his ſpeech: that he kept his word with the ſpectre, whom he ſoon ſaw come floating thro' the air towards him: that he ſpoke to her, but ſhe [90] told him at that time ſhe was in too much haſte to attend to him, but bid him go away, and no harm ſhould befall him; and ſo the affair reſted when I left the country. But it is incredible the miſchief theſe AEgri Somnia did in the neighborhood: the friends and relation of the deceaſed, whom the old Dreamer had named, were in the utmoſt anxiety at finding them in ſuch bad company in the other world: the almoſt extinct belief of the old idle tales began again to gain ground, and the good miniſter will have many a weary diſcourſe and ex⯑hortation before he can eradicate the abſurd ideas this idle ſtory has revived.

In this part of the country the notion of witch⯑craft is quite loſt: it was obſerved to ceaſe almoſt immediately on the repeal of the witch act; a proof what a dangerous inſtrument it was in the hands of the vindictive, or of the credulous.

Among the ſuperſtitious cuſtoms theſe are the moſt ſingular.Unlucky day. A Highlander never begins any thing of conſequence on the day of the week on which the 3d of May falls, which he ſtyles Lagh Sbeacbanna na bleanagh, or the diſmal day.

On the 1ſt of May, Bel-tein. the herdſmen of every vil⯑lage hold their Bel-tein ^*, a rural ſacrifice: they cut a ſquare trench on the ground, leaving the turf in the middle; on that they make a fire of wood, on which they dreſs a large caudle of eggs, butter, oatmeal and milk; and bring, beſides the ingre⯑dients of the caudle, plenty of beer and whiſky; [91] for each of the company muſt contribute ſomething. The rites begin with ſpilling ſome or the caudle on the ground, by way of libation: on that, every one takes a cake of oatmeal, upon which are raiſed nine ſquare knobs, each dedicated to ſome particular being, the ſuppoſed preſerver of their flocks and herds, or to ſome particular animal, the real de⯑ſtroyer of them: each perſon then turns his face to the fire, breaks off a knob, and flinging it over his ſhoulders, ſays, This I give to thee, preſerve thou my horſes; this to thee, preſerve thou my ſheep; and ſo on. After that, they life the ſame ceremony to the noxious animals: This I give to thee, 0 Fox! ſpare thou my lambs; this to thee, O hooded Crow! this to thee, O Eagle!

When the ceremony is over they dine on the caudle; and after the feaſt is finiſhed, what is left is hid by two perſons deputed for that purpoſe; but on the next Sunday they re-aſſemble, and finiſh the reliques of the firſt entertainment ^*.

On the death of a Highlander,Funeral cuſtoms the corps being ſtretched on a board, and covered with a coarſe [92] linnen wrapper, the friends lay on the breaſt of the deceaſed a wooden platter, containing a ſmall quan⯑tity of ſalt and earth, ſeparate and unmixed; the earth, an emblem of the corruptible body; the ſalt, an emblem of the immortal ſpirit. All fire is ex⯑tinguiſhed where a corps is kept; and it is reckoned ſo ominous, for a dog or cat to paſs over it, that the poor animal is killed without mercy.

The Late-wake is a ceremony uſed at funerals:The Late-wake. the evening after the death of any perſon, the rela⯑tions and friends of the deceaſed meet at the houſe, attended by bagpipe or fiddle; the neareſt of kin, be it wife, ſon, or daughter, opens a melancholy ball, dancing and greeting; i. e. crying violently at the ſame time; and this continues till day-light; but with ſuch gambols and frolicks, among the younger part of the company, that the loſs which occaſioned them is often more than ſupplied by the conſequences of that night. If the corps remains unburied for two nights the ſame rites are renewed. Thus, Scythian-like, they rejoice at the deliverance of their friends out of this life of miſery.

The Coranich, Coranich. or ſinging at funerals, is ſtill in uſe in ſome places: the ſongs are generally in praiſe of the deceaſed; or a recital of the valiant deeds of him, or anceſtors. I had not the fortune to be preſent at any in North Britain, but formerly aſ⯑ſiſted at one in the ſouth of Ireland, where it was performed in the fullneſs of horror. The cries are called by the Iriſh the 'Ulogobne and Hûllulu, two words extremely expreſſive of the found uttered on theſe occaſions, and being of Celtic ſtock, Etymo⯑logiſts would ſwear to be the origin of the [...] [93] of the Greeks, and Ululatus of the Latins. Virgil is very fond of uſing the laſt, whenever any of his females are diſtreſſed; as are others of the Roman Poets, and generally on occaſions ſimilar to this.

It was my fortune to arrive at a certain town in Kerry, at the time that a perſon of ſome diſtinction departed this life: my curioſity led me to the houſe, where the funeral ſeemed conducted in the pureſt claſſical form.

Quodcunque aſpicerem luctus gemituſque ſonabant, Formaque non taciti funeris intùs erat.

In ſhort, the conclamatio was ſet up by the friends in the fame manner as Virgil deſcribes that conſe⯑quential of Dido's death.

Lamentis gemituque et faemines ululatu Tecta fremunt.

Immediately after this followed another ceremony, fully deſcribed by Cambden, in his account of the manners of the antient Iriſh; the earneſt expoſtu⯑lations and reproaches given to the deceaſed, for quitting this world, where ſhe enjoyed ſo many bleſſings, ſo good a huſband, ſuch fine children. This cuſtom is of great antiquity, for Euryalus's mother makes the ſame pathetic addreſs to her dead ſon.

Tune ilia ſenectae Sera meae requies? potuiſti relinquere ſolam Crudelis?

But when the time approached for carrying out the corps the cry was redoubled.

Tremulis ululatibus aethera complent.

A numerous band of females waiting in the outer court, to attend the herſe, and to pay (in chorus) [94] the laſt tribute of their voices. The habit of this ſorrowing train, and the neglect of their perſons, were admirably ſuited to the occaſion: their robes were black, and flowing, reſembling the antient Palla; their hair long, and diſheveled: I might ſay,

Vidi egomet nigra ſuccinctam vadere palla Canidiam; pedibus nudis, paſſoque capillo Cum Sagana mojore ululantem.

Among theſe mourners were diſperſed the females, who ſung the praiſes of the deceaſed, and were in the place of the Mulieres Praeficae of the Romans, and, like them, were a mercenary tribe. I could not but obſerve that they over-did their parts, as Horace acquaints us the mourners of his days did.

Ut qui conducti plorant in funera, dicunt Et ſaciunt prope plura dolentibus ex animo.

The corps was carried ſlowly along the verge of a moſt beautifull lake, the ululatus was continued, and the whole proceſſion ended among the vene⯑rable ruins of an old abby. But to return to North Britain.

Midwives give new-born babes a ſmall ſpoonfull of earth and whiſky, as the firſt food they taſte.

Before women bake their bannocks, or oatmeal cakes, they make a croſs on the laſt.

The notion of ſecond-ſight ſtill prevales in a few places:Fairies. as does the belief of Fairies; and children are watched till the chriſtening is over, leaſt they ſhould be ſtole, or changed.

Elf-ſhots., i. e. the ſtone arrow heads of the old inhabitants of this iſland, are ſuppoſed to be wea⯑pon ſhot by Fairies at cattle, to which are attri⯑buted [95] any diſorders they have: in order to effect a cure, the cow is to be touched by an elſ-ſhot, or made to drink the water in which one has been dipped. The ſame virtue is ſaid to be found in the cryſtal gems ^*, and in the adder-ſtone, our Glein Raidr; and it is alſo believed that good fortune muſt attend the owner; ſo, for that reaſon, the firſt is called Clacb Bhouaigh, or the happy ſtone. Cap⯑tain Archibald Campbell ſhewed me one, a ſpheroid ſet in ſilver, which people came for the uſe of above a hundred miles, and brought the water it was to be dipt in with them; for without that, in human caſes, it was believed to have no effect.

Left Carrie, the houſe of Mr. Campbell, AUG. 2. factor for the Struan eſtate, where I had a very hoſpitable reception the preceding night. Went due eaſt; paſſed over a bridge croſs the Tumel, which diſ⯑charges itſelf out of Lough Raynach. Not far off were ſome neat ſmall houſes, inhabited by veteran ſoldiers, who were ſettled here after the peace of 1748; had land, and three pounds in money given, and nine pounds lent, to begin the world with. In ſome few places this plan ſucceeded; but in gene⯑ral, was fruſtrated by the diſſipation of theſe new coloniſts, who could by no means reliſh an in⯑duſtrious life; but as ſoon as the money was ſpent, which ſeldom laſted long, left their tenements to be poſſeſſed by the next comer.

Saw a ſtamping-mill, calculated to reduce lime⯑ſtone to a fine power, in order to lave the expence of burning, for manure. The ſtampers beat it into [96] ſmall pieces in a trough, which a ſtream of water paſſed through, carrying off the fine parts into a proper receptacle, the groſs ones being ſtopped by a grate. I did not find that this project: anſwered, but was told, that the benefit the land was to re⯑ceive from it would not appear till the third year.

On going up a ſteep hill have a fine view of the lake. Where the mountains almoſt cloſe, is Mount Alexander, where Struan once reſided, and which he called his hermitage: it is a moſt romantic ſitua⯑tion, prettily wooded, impending over a fine baſon, formed by the Tumel, in a deep hollow beneath. At the bottom of this hill is Argentine, Argentine. a little foun⯑tain; to which he gave that name from the ſilvery micae it flings up: near this are ſeveral rude but beautifull walks amidſt the rocks and trees, among which, in clifts and chaſms, I was ſhewn the hard bed of the poor poet, when his diſloyalty had made it penal for him to ſhew his head. Near this the rocks almoſt meet, and the river ruſhes with vaſt violence between. Some outlawed M^c Gregors were once ſurprized on the oppoſite precipice, and all killed; one, who made a deſperate leap upon a ſtone in the middle of the water, and another to the op⯑poſite ſide, had the hard fate to be ſhot in climb⯑ing the oppoſite rocks.

A mile lower are the falls of the Tumel: I have ſeen higher; but, except that of the Rhine, never law one with more water.

Aſcend a very ſteep and high hill through a great birch wood; a moſt pictureſque ſcene, from the pendent form of the boughs waving with the wind from the bottom to the utmoſt ſummits of the [97] mountain. On attaining the top, had a view of a beautifull little Straith, fertile, and prettily wooded, with the river in the middle, forming numbers of quick meanders; then ſuddenly ſwelling into a lake, that fills the vale from ſide to ſide; is about three miles long, and retains the name of the river. After riding along a black moor, in fight of vaſt moun⯑tains, arrive at

Blair ^*, or Athol-Houſe, ſeated on an eminence above a plain, watered by the Carrie, an outrageous ſtream, whoſe ravages have greatly deformed the vally, by the vaſt beds of gravel which it has left behind. The houſe was once fortified, and held a ſiege againſt the Rebels in 1746; but at preſent it is much reduced in height, and the inſide highly finiſhed by the noble owner. The moſt ſingular piece of furniture is a cheſt of drawers made of broom, moſt elegantly ſtriped in veins of white and brown. This plant grows to a great ſize in Scot⯑land, Great broom trees. and furniſhes pieces of the breadth of ſix inches.

Near the houſe is a fine walk ſurrounding a very deep glen finely wooded, but deficient in water at the bottom; but on the ſide of the walk on the rock is a ſmall cryſtalline fountain, inhabited at that time by a pair of Naiads, in form of golden fiſh. In a ſpruce ſir was a hang-neſt of ſome un⯑known bird,Hang-neſt. ſuſpended at the four corners to the boughs; it was open at top, an inch and a half in diameter, and two deep; the ſides and bottom thick, the materials moſs, worſted, and birch [98] bark, lined with hair and feathers. The ſtreams afford the Parr, Parr. a ſmall ſpecies of Trout, ſeldom exceeding eight inches in length, marked on the ſides with nine large bluiſh ſpots, and on the lateral line with ſmall red ones ^*.

This country is very mountainous, has no natural woods except of birch; but the vaſt plantations that begin to cloath the hills will amply ſupply theſe defects. There is a great quantity of oats raiſed in this neighborhood, and numbers of black cattle reared, the reſources of the exhauſted parts of South Britain.

Viſit the paſs of Killicrankie, Killierankie. about five miles ſouth of Blair: near the northern entrance was ſought the battle between the Viſcount Dundee and General Mackay, in which the firſt was killed in the moment of victory. The paſs is extremely narrow, between high mountains, with the Carrie running beneath in a deep, darkſome, and rocky channel, over-hung with trees, forming a ſcene of horrible grandeur. The road through this ſtrait is very fine, formed by the ſoldiery lent by the Government, who have ſixpence per day from the country beſides their pay. About a mile beyond the paſs, Mr. Robertſon's of Faſkally, appears like fairy ground amidſt theſe wild rocks, ſeated in a moſt beautifull meadow, watered by the river Tumel, ſurrounded with pretty hills finely wooded.

‘The Earl of Athole, hearing of the King's coming, made great proviſion for him in all things pertaining to a prince, that he was as well ſerved and eaſed, with all things neceſſary to his eſtate, as he had been in his own palace of Edin⯑burgh. For I heard ſay, this noble Earl gart make a curious palace to the King, to his Mo⯑ther, and to the Embaſſador, where they were s;o honourably eaſed and lodged as they had been in England, France, Italy, or Spain, concerning the time and equivalent, for their hunting and paſtime; which was builded in the midſt of a fair meadow, a fair palace of green timber, wind with green birks, that were green both [100] under and above, which was faſhioned in four quarters, and in every quarter and nuik thereof a great round, as it had been a block-houſe, which was lofted and geſted the ſpace of three houſe height; the floors laid with green ſcarets ſpreats, medwarts and flowers, that no man knew whereon he zeid, but as he had been in a garden. Further, there were two great rounds in ilk ſide of the gate, and a great portculleis of tree, falling down with the manner of a bar⯑race, with a draw-bridge, and a great ſtank of water of ſixteen foot deep, and thirty foot of breadth. And alſo this palace within was hung with fine tapeſtry and arraſſes of ſilk, and lighted with fine glaſs windows in all airths; that this palace was as pleaſantly decored, with all neceſ⯑ſaries pertaining to a prince, as it had been his own palace-royal at home. Further, this Earl gart make ſuch proviſion for the King, and his Mother, and the Embaſſador, that they had all manner of meats, drinks, and delicates that were to be gotten, at that time, in all Scotland, either in burgh or land; that is to ſay, all kind of drink, as ale, beer, wine, both white and claret, malvery, muſkadel, Hippocras, aquavitae. Further, there was of meats, wheat-bread, main-bread and ginge-bread; with fleſhes, beef, mutton, lamb, veal, veniſon, gooſe, grice, capon, coney, cran, ſwan, partridge, plover, duck, drake, briſſel-cock and pawnies, black-cock and muir⯑fowl, cappercaillies: and alſo the ſtanks, that were round about the palace, were full of all delicate fiſhes, as ſalmonds, trouts, pearches, [101] pikes, eels, and all other kind of delicate fiſhes that could be gotten in freſh waters; and all ready for the banket. Syne were there proper ſtewards, cunning baxters, excellent cooks and potingars, with confections and drugs for their deſerts; and the halls and chambers were pre⯑pared with coſtly bedding, veſſel and napery, according for a king, ſo that he wanted none of his orders more than he had been at home in his own palace. The King remained in this wilder⯑neſs, at the hunting, the ſpace of three days and three nights, and his company, as I have ſhewn. I heard men ſay, it coſt the Earl of Athole, every day, in expences, a thouſand pounds.’

But hunting meetings, among the great men, were often the preludes to rebellion; for under that pretence they collected great bodies of men without ſuſpicion, which at length occaſioned an act of par⯑lement prohibiting ſuch dangerous aſſemblies.

Set out for the county of Aberdeen; ride eaſtward over a hill into Glen-Tilt, AUG. 3. Glen-Tilt. famous in old times for producing the moſt hardy warriors; is a narrow glen, ſeveral miles in length, bounded on each ſide by mountains of an amazing height; on the ſouth is the great hill of Ben y glo, whoſe baſe is thirty-five miles in circumference, and whoſe ſummit towers far above the others. The ſides of many of theſe mountains are covered with fine verdure, and are excellent ſheep-walks; but entirely woodleſs. The road is the moſt dangerous and the moſt hor⯑rible I ever travelled; a narrow path, ſo rugged that our horſes often were obliged to croſs their [102] legs, in order to pick a ſecure place for their feet; while, at a conſiderable and precipitous depth be⯑neath, roared a black torrent, rolling through a bed of rock, ſolid in every part but where the Tilt had worn its antient way. Salmon force their paſſage even as high as this dreary ſtream, in ſpite of the diſtance from the ſea, and the difficulties they have to encounter.

Aſcend a ſteep hill, on the top of which we re⯑freſhed ourſelves with ſome goats whey,Sheelins. at a Sheelin, or, as it is ſometimes called, Arrie, ^* and Bothay, a dairy-houſe, where the Highland ſhepherds, or gra⯑ziers, live during ſummer with their herds and flocks, and during that ſeaſon make butter and cheeſe. Their whole furniture conſiſts of a few horn ſpoons, their milking utenſils, a couch formed of ſods to lie on, and a rug to cover them. Their food oat-cakes, butter or cheeſe, and often the coagulated blood of their cattle ſpread on their bannocks. Their drink milk, whey, and ſome⯑times, by way of indulgence, whiſky. Such dairy-houſes are common to moſt mountainous countries: thoſe in Wales are called Vottys, or Summer-houſes; thoſe on the Swiſs Alps, Sennes.

Dined on the ſide of Loch-Tilt, a ſmall piece of water, ſwarming with Trouts. Continued our jour⯑ney over a wild, black, moory, melancholy tract. Reached Brae-mar ^†; the country almoſt inſtantly changed, and in lieu of dreary waſtes, a rich vale, plenteous in corn and graſs, ſucceeded. Croſs the Dee near its head, which, from an inſignificant [103] ſtream, in the courſe of a very few miles, increaſes to the ſize of a great river, from the influx of num⯑bers of other waters. The rocks of Brae-mar, on the eaſt,Brae-mar. are exceedingly romantic, finely wooded with pine. The clifts are very lofty, and their front moſt rugged and broken, with vaſt pines growing out of their fiſſures.

This tract abounding with game, was, in old times, the annual reſort of numbers of nobility, who aſſembled here to paſs a month or two in the amuſements of the chace. Their huntings reſem⯑bled campaigns; they lived in temporary cottages, called Lonquhards, were all dreſſed in an uniform habit conformable to that of the country, and paſſed their time with jollity and good chear, moſt admirably deſcribed by John Taylor, the water poet, who, in 1618, made there his Pennileſſe Pilgrimage, p. 135, and deſcribes the rural luxury with all the glee of a Sancho Panca.

‘I thank my good Lord Erſkin, (ſays the Poet) hee commanded that I ſhould alwayes bee lodged in his lodging, the kitchen being alwayes on the ſide of a banke, many kettles and pots boyling, and many ſpits turning and winding, with great variety of cheere: as veniſon bak'd, ſodden, roſt and ſtu'de beefe, mutton, goates, kid, hares, freſh ſalmon, pidgeons, hens, capons, chickens, partridge, moore-coots, heath-cocks, caperkellies, and termagants; good ale, ſacke, white and cla⯑ret, tent (or Allegant) and moſt potent aqua⯑vitae ^*.’

[104] ‘All theſe, and more than theſe, we had conti⯑nually, in ſuperfluous abundance, caught by faulconers, fowlers, fiſhers, and brought by my Lord's (Mar) tenants and purveyors, to victual our campe, which conſiſted of fourteen or fifteen hundred men, and horſes. The manner of the hunting is this: five or ſix hundred men doe riſe early in the morning, and they doe diſperſe them⯑ſelves divers wayes, and ſeven, eight, or ten miles [105] compaſſe, they doe bring or chaſe in the deer in many heards (two, three, or four hundred in a heard) to ſuch or ſuch a place, as the noblemen ſhall appoint them; then when day is come, the lords and gentlemen of their companies doe ride or go to the ſaid places, ſometimes wading up to the middles through bournes and rivers; and then they being come to the place, doe lye down on the ground till thoſe foreſaid ſcouts, which are called the Tinekhell, do bring down the deer; but, as the proverb ſays of a bad cooke, ſo theſe Tinckhell men doe lick their own ſingers; for, beſides their bowes and arrows which they carry with them, wee can heare now and then a hargue⯑buſe, or a muſquet, goe off, which doe ſeldom diſcharge in vaine: then after we had ſtayed three houres, or there abouts, we might perceive the deer appeare on the hills round about us, (their heads making a ſhew like a wood) which being followed cloſe by the Tinckhell, are chaſed down into the valley where wee lay; then all the valley on each ſide being way-laid with a hun⯑dred couple of ſtrong Iriſh grey-hounds, they are let looſe, as occaſion ſerves, upon the heard of deere, that with dogs, gunnes, arrowes, durks and daggers, in the ſpace of two houres fourſcore fat deere were ſlaine, which after are diſpoſed of ſome one way and ſome another, twenty or thirty miles, and more than enough left for us to make merry withall at our rendevouze. Being come to our lodgings, there was ſuch baking, boyling, roſting and ſtewing, as if Cook Ruſſian had been there to have ſcalded the Devill in his feathers.’ But to proceed.

[106] Paſs by the caſtle of Brae-mar, a ſquare tower, built about a hundred and fifty years ago, to curb the diſcontented chieftains; but at preſent unneceſ⯑ſarily garriſoned by a company of foot, being rented by the Government from Mr. Farquharſon of Invercauld, whoſe houſe I reached in leſs than half an hour.

Invercauld is ſeated in the centre of the Grampian hills, in a fertile vale, waſhed by the Dee, a large and rapid river: nothing can be more beautifull than the different views from the ſeveral parts of it. On the northern entrance, immenſe ragged and broken crags bound one ſide of the proſpect; over whoſe grey ſides and ſummits is ſcattered the melan⯑choly green of the pictureſque pine, which grows out of the naked rock, where one would think na⯑ture would have denied vegetation.

A little lower down is the caſtle above-men⯑tioned; formerly a neceſſary curb on the little kings of the country; but at preſent ſerves ſcarce any real purpoſe, but to adorn the landſcape.

The views from the ſkirts of the plain, near Inver⯑cauld, are very great; the hills that immediately bound it are cloathed with trees, particularly with birch, whoſe long and pendent boughs, waving a vaſt height above the head, ſurpaſs the beauties of the weeping willow.

Some of theſe hills are ſuppoſed to be the higheſt part of Great Britain: their height has not yet been taken, but the conjecture is made from the great deſcent of the Dee, which runs from Brae-mar ^† to the ſea, above ſeventy miles, with a moſt rapid courſe.

Rode to take a nearer view of the environs; croſſed the Dee on a good ſtone-bridge, built by the Government, and entered on excellent roads into a magnificent foreſt of pines of many miles extent.Pine Foreſt. Some of the trees are of a vaſt ſize; I mea⯑ſured ſeveral that were ten, eleven, and even twelve feet in circumference, and near ſixty feet high, forming a moſt beautifull column, with a fine ver⯑dant capital. Theſe trees are of a great age, having, as is ſuppoſed, ſeen two centuries. The value of theſe trees is conſiderable; Mr. Farqubarſon in⯑formed me, that by ſawing and retailing them, he has got for eight hundred trees five-and-twenty ſhillings each: they are ſawed in an adjacent ſaw⯑mill, into plank ten feet long, eleven inches broad, and three thick, and ſold for two ſhillings apiece.

[108] Near this antient foreſt is another, conſiſting of ſmaller trees, almoſt as high, but very ſlender; one grows in a ſingular manner out of the top of a great ſtone, and notwithſtanding it ſeems to have no other nouriſhment than what it gets from the dews, is above thirty feet high.

The proſpect above theſe foreſts is very extraor⯑dinary, a diſtant view of hills over a ſurface of ver⯑dant pyramids of pines.

This whole tract abounds with game:Stags. the Stags at this time were ranging in the mountains;Roes. but the little Roebucks ^* were perpetually bounding before us; and the black game often ſprung under our feet.Birds. The tops of the hills ſwarmed with Grous and Ptarmigans. Green Plovers, Whimbrels, and Snow-flecks ^†, breed here: the laſt aſſemble in great flocks during winter, and collect ſo cloſely in their eddying flight as to give the ſportſman oppor⯑tunity of killing numbers at a ſhot. Eagles ^‡, Peregrine Falcons, and Goſhawks, breed here: the Falcons in rocks, the Goſhawks in trees: the laſt purſues its prey an end, and daſhes through every thing in purſuit; but if it miſſes its quarry ceaſes after two or three hundred yards flight. Theſe birds are proſcribed; half a crown is given for an eagle, a ſhilling for a hawk, or hooded crow.

Foxes are in theſe parts very ravenous, feeding on roes, ſheep, and even ſhe goats.

[109] Rooks viſit theſe vales in autumn, to feed on the different ſort of berries; but neither winter nor breed here.

I ſaw flying in the foreſts the greater Bulfinch of Mr. Edwards, tab. 123, 124. the Loxia enucleator of Linnaeus, whoſe food is the ſeed of pine cones; a bird common to the north of Europe and America.

On our return paſſed under ſome high clifts, with large woods of birch intermixed. This tree is uſed for all ſorts of implements of huſbandry,Birch Woods. roofing of ſmall houſes, wheels, fuel; the Highlanders alſo tan their own leather with the bark; and a great deal of excellent wine is extracted from the live tree. Obſerved among theſe rocks a ſort of pro⯑jecting ſhelf, on which had been a hut, acceſſible only by the help of ſome thongs faſtened by ſome very expert climbers, to which the family got, in time of danger, in former days, with their moſt valuable moveables.

The houſes of the common people in theſe parts are ſhocking to humanity,Cottages. formed of looſe ſtones, and covered with clods, which they call deviſh, or with heath, broom, or branches of fir: they look, at a diſtance, like ſo many black mole-hills. The inhabitants live very poorly, on oatmeal, barley-cakes, and potatoes; their drink whiſky ſweetened with honey. The men are thin, but ſtrong; idle and lazy, except employed in the chace, or any thing that looks like amuſement; are content with their hard fare, and will not exert themſelves far⯑ther than to get what they deem neceſſaries. The women are more induſtrious, ſpin their own huſ⯑bands cloaths, and get money by knitting ſtockings, [110] the great trade of the county. The common wo⯑men are in general moſt remarkably plain, and ſoon acquire an old look, and by being much expoſed to the weather without hats, ſuch a grin, and contraction of the muſcles, as heightens greatly their natural hardneſs of features: I never ſaw ſo much plainneſs among the lower rank of females: but the ne plus ultra of hard features is not found till you arrive among the fiſh-women of Aberdeen.

Tenants pay their rent generally in this country in money, except what they pay in poultry, which is done to promote the breed, as the gentry are ſo remote from any market. Thoſe that rent a mill pay a hog or two; an animal ſo deteſted by the Highlanders, that very few can be prevaled on to taſte it, in any ſhape. Labor is here very cheap, the uſual pay being fifty ſhillings a year, and two pecks of oatmeal a week.

Purſued my journey eaſt,AUG. 6. along a beautifull road by the river ſide, in ſight of the pine foreſts. The vale now grows narrow, and is filled with woods of birch and alder. Saw on the road-ſide the ſeats of gentlemen high built, and once defenſible. The peaſants cultivate their little land with great care to the very edge of the ſtony hills. All the way are vaſt maſſes of granite, the ſame which is called in Cornwall, Moor-ſtone.

The Glen contracts, and the mountains approach each other. Quit the Highlands, paſſing between two great rocks,Paſs of Bellitir. called the Paſs of Bollitir, a very narrow ſtrait, whoſe bottom is covered with the tremendous ruins of the precipices that bound the road. I was informed, that here the wind rages [111] with great fury during winter, and catching up the ſnow in eddies, whirls it about with ſuch impe⯑tuoſity, as makes it dangerous for man or beaſt to be out at that time. Rain alſo pours down ſome⯑times in deluges, and carries with it ſtone and gravel from the hills in ſuch quantity, that I have ſeen theſe ſpates, as they are called, lie croſs the roads, as the avelenches, or ſnow-falls, do thoſe of the Alps. In many parts of the Highlands were boſpitia for the reception of travellers, called by the Scotch, Spittles, or hoſpitals: the ſame were uſual in Wales, where they are ſtyled Yſpitty; and, in both places, were maintained by the religious houſes: as ſimilar Aſylums are to this day ſup⯑ported, in many parts of the Alps.

This paſs is the eaſtern entrance into the High⯑lands. The country now aſſumes a new face: the hills grow leſs; but the land more barren, and is chiefly covered with heath and rock. The edges of the Dee are cultivated, but the reſt only in patches, among which is generally a groupe of ſmall houſes. There is alſo a change of trees, oak being the principal wood, but not much of that Refreſhed my horſes at a hamlet called Tulloch, and looking weſt, ſaw the great mountain Lagbin y gair, which is always covered with ſnow.

Obſerved ſeveral vaſt plantations of pines, planted by gentlemen near their ſeats: ſuch a laud⯑able ſpirit prevails, in this reſpect, that in another half-century it never ſhall be ſaid, that to ſpy the nakedneſs of the land are you come.

Dine at the little village of Kincaird. Here⯑abouts the common people cultivate a great deal of [112] cabbage. The oat-fields are incloſed with rude low mounds of ſtone.

Lay at a mean houſe at Banchorie, The country, from Bollitir to this place, dull, unleſs where va⯑ried with the windings of the river, or with the plantations.

The nearer to Aberdeen, AUG. 7. the lower the country grows, and the greater quantity of corn: in general, oats and barley; for there is very little wheat ſown in theſe parts. Reach

ABERDEEN,ABERDEEN. a fine city, lying on a ſmall bay formed by the Dee, ^* deep enough for ſhips of two hundred tuns. The town is about two miles in circumference, and contains thirteen thouſand ſouls, and about three thouſand in the ſuburbs. It once enjoyed a good ſhare of the tobacco trade, but was at length forced to reſign it to Glaſgow, which was ſo much more conveniently ſituated for it. At pre⯑ſent, its imports are from the Baltic, and a few merchants trade to the Weſt-Indies and North America. Stocking trade. Its exports are ſtockings, thread, ſal⯑mon, and oat-meal: the firſt is a moſt important article, as appears by the following ſtate of it. For this manufacture, 20,800 pounds worth of wool is annually imported, and 1600 pounds worth of oil. Of this wool is annually made 69,333 dozen pairs of ſtockings, worth, at an average, 1l. 10s. per dozen. Theſe are made by the country people, in almoſt all parts of this great county, who get 4s. per dozen for ſpinning, and 14s. per dozen for knitting; ſo that there is annually paid [113] them 62,329l. 14s. And beſides, there is about 2000l. value of ſtockings manufactured from the wool of the county, which encourages the breed of ſheep much; for even as high as Invercauld, the farmer ſells his ſheep at twelve ſhillings apiece, and keeps them till they are four or five years old, for the ſake of the wool. About 200 combers are alſo employed conſtantly. The thread manufacture is another conſiderable article, tho' trifling in com⯑pariſon of the woollen.

The ſalmon fiſheries on the Dee and the Don, Salmon. are a good branch of trade: about 46 boats, and 130 men, are employed on the firſt; and in ſome years, 167,000lb. of fiſh have been ſent pickled to London, and about 930 barrels of ſalted fiſh exported to France, Italy, &c. The fiſhery on the Don is far leſs conſiderable.

The town of Aberdeen is in general well built, with granite from the neighboring quarries. The beſt ſtreet, or rather place, is the Caſtle-ſtreet: in the middle is an octogon building, with neat bas relievos of the Kings of Scotland, from James I. to James VII. The Town-houſe makes a good figure, and has a handſome ſpire in the centre.

The eaſt and weſt churches are under the ſame roof; for the North Britons obſerve oeconomy even in their religion: in one I obſerved a ſmall ſhip hung up; a common thing in Scotland, a ſort of votive offering frequent enough in Popiſh churches, but appeared very unexpectedly here.

In the church-yard lies Andrew Cant, miniſter of Aberdeen, Andrew Cant. from whom the ſpectator derives the word to cant; but, in all probability, Andrew canted no [114] more than the reſt of his brethren, for he lived in a whining age ^*; the word therefore ſeems to be derived from canto, from their ſinging out their diſcourſes.

In the ſame place are multitudes of long-winded epitaphs; but the following, though ſhort, has a moſt elegant turn:

Si ſides, ſi bumanitas, multoque gratus lepore candor; Si ſuorum amor, amicorum charitas, omniumque Be⯑nevolentia ſpritum reducere poſſent, Haud beic ſitus eſſet Johannes Burnet a Elrick. 1747.

The college is a large old building,College. founded by George Earl of Marechal, 1593. On one ſide is this ſtrange inſcription; probably alluding to ſome ſcoffers at that time:

In the great room are ſeveral good pictures. A head of the Founder. The preſent Lord Marechal when young, and General Keith, his brother. Bi⯑ſhop Burnet in his robes, as Chancellor of the Gar⯑ter. A head of Mary Stuart, in black, with a crown in one hand, a crucifix in the other. Arthur Jonſton, a fine head, by Jameſon. Andrew Cant, by the ſame. Gordon, of Strakloch, publiſher of the maps, and ſeveral others, by Jameſon.

In the library is the alcoran on vellum, finely illuminated.

[115] A Hebrew Bible, Manuſcript, with Rabinical notes, on vellum.

Iſidori excerpta ex libro: a great curioſity, being a complete natural hiſtory, with figures, richly illu⯑minated on ſquares of plated gold, on vellum.

A Paraphraſe on the Revelation, by James VI. with notes, in the King's own hand.

A fine miſſal ^*.

There are about a hundred and forty ſtudents belonging to this college.

The grammar-ſchool is a low but neat building.School. Hoſpital. Gordon's hoſpital is handſome; in front is a good ſtatue of the founder: it maintains forty boys, children of the inhabitants of Aberdeen, who are apprenticed at proper ages.

The infirmary is a large plain building, and ſends out between eight and nine hundred cured patients annually.

On the ſide of the Great Bleachery, which is common to the town, are the publick walks. Over a road, between the Caſtle-ſtreet and the river, is a very handſome arch, which muſt attract the atten⯑tion of the traveller.

On the eaſt of the town is a work begun by Cromwel, from whence is a fine view of the ſea: beneath is a ſmall patch of ground, noted for pro⯑ducing very early barley, which was then reaping.

Prices of proviſions in this town were theſe:Proviſions. Beef, (16 ounces to the pound) 2d. 1/2. to 5d. mut⯑ton the ſame; butter, (28 ounces to the pound) 6d. [116] to 8d. cheeſe, ditto, 4d. to 4d. 1/2. a large pullet, 6d. or 10d. duck, the ſame; gooſe, 2s. 3d.

Granite quarry. Croſs the harbor to the granite quarries that con⯑tribute to ſupply London with paving-ſtones: the ſtone lies either in large nodules or in ſhattery beds, are cut into ſhape; and the ſmall pieces for the middle of the ſtreets are put on board for ſeven ſhillings per tun, the long ſtones at ten-pence per foot.

Viſited old Aberdeen, AUG. 8. Old Aberdeen. about a mile north of the new; a poor town, ſeated not far from the Don. The college is built round a ſquare with cloiſters. The chapel is very ruinous within; but there ſtill remains ſome wood-work of exquiſite workmanſhip. This was preſerved by the ſpirit of the Provoſt, at the time of the reformation, who armed his peo⯑ple and checked the blind zeal of the populace.

The library is large. The moſt remarkable things are, John Treviſa's tranſlation of Higden's Polychronicon, in 1387; the manuſcript excellently wrote, and the language very good, for that time. A very neat Dutch miſſal, with elegant paintings on the margin. Another of the angels appearing to the ſhepherds, wiſh one of the men playing on the bagpipes. A manuſcript catalogue of the old trea⯑ſury of the college.

Hector Boethius was the firſt principal of the col⯑lege, and ſent for from Paris for that purpoſe, on an annual ſalary of forty marks, Scots, at thirteen-pence each. The ſquare tower on the ſide of the college was built by Cromwel, for the reception of ſtudents; of which there are about a hundred be⯑longing to the college, who lie in it.

[117] In Biſhop Elphinſton's hall, who was the founder, is a picture of Biſhop Dunbar, who finiſhed. what the other left incomplete. Forbes, Biſhop of Aber⯑deen, and Profeſſors Sandiland and Gordon, by Jameſon. The Sybils: ſaid to be done by the ſame hand, but ſeemed to me in too different a ſtyle to be his; but the Sybilla AEgyptiaca and Erythroea are in good attitudes.

The cathedral is very antient; no more than the two very antique ſpires and one iſle, which is uſed as a church, are now remaining.

From a tumulus, called Tittie dron, now covered with trees, is a fine view of an extenſive and rich corn country; once a moſt barren ſpot, but by the induſtry of the inhabitants brought to its preſent ſtate. A pretty vale bordered with wood, the ca⯑thedral ſoaring above the trees, and the river Don, form all together a moſt agreeable proſpect.

Beneath are ſome cruives, or wears, to take ſal⯑mon in. The owners are obliged by law to make the rails of the cruives ^* of a certain width, to per⯑mit fiſh of a certain ſize to paſs up the river; but as that is neglected, they pay an annual ſum to the owners of the fiſheries which lie above, to compen⯑ſate the loſs.

In the Regiam Majeſtatem are preſerved ſeveral antient laws relating to the ſalmon fiſheries, couched in terms expreſſive of the ſimplicity of the times.

From Saturday night till Monday morning, they were obliged to leave a free paſſage for the fiſh, which is ſtyled the Saterdayes Sloppe ^†.

[118] Alexander I. enacted, ‘That the ſtreame of the water ſal be in all parts ſwa free, that ane ſwine of the age of three zeares, well feed, may turne himſelf within the ſtreame round about, ſwa that his ſnowt nor taill fall not touch the bank of the water.’

‘Slayers of reide fiſhe or ſmoltes of ſalmond, the thirde time are puniſhed with death. And ſic like he quha commands the famine to be done.’ Jac. IV. parl. 6. ſtat. Rob. III.

Continue my journey:AUG. 9. paſs over the bridge of Don; a fine gothic arch flung over that fine river, from one rock to the other: ride for ſome miles on the ſea ſands; paſs through Newburgh, a ſmall village, and at low water ford the Ytben, a river productive of the pearl muſcle: go through the pariſh of Furvie, now entirely overwhelmed with ſand, (except two farms) and about 500l. per ann. loſt to the Errol family, as appears by the oath of the factor, made before the court of ſeſſions in 1600, to aſcertain the miniſters ſalary. It was at that time all arable land,Inundation of ſand. now covered with ſhifting ſands, like the deſerts of Arabia, and no veſtiges remain of any buildings, except a ſmall fragment of the church.

The country now grows very flat; produces oats; but the crops are conſiderably worſe than in the preceding country. Reach

Bowneſs, or Buchaneſs, the ſeat of the Earl of Errol, perched like a falcon's neſt, on the edge of a vaſt clift above the ſea. The drawing-room, a large and very elegant apartment, hangs over it; the waves run in wild eddies round the rocks be⯑neath, [119] and the ſea fowl clamor above and below, forming a ſtrange proſpect and ſingular chorus. The place was once deſenſible, there having been a ditch and draw-bridge on the acceſſible ſide; but now both are deſtroyed.

Above five miles ſouth is Slains, the remains of the old family caſtle, ſeated ſtrongly on a penin⯑ſulated rock; but demoliſhed in 1594, by James VI. on the rebellion of the Earl of Huntly. Near this place are ſome vaſt caverns, once filled with curious ſtalactical incruſtations, but now deſtroyed, in order to be burnt into lime; for there is none in this country, that uſefull commodity being im⯑ported from the Earl of Elgin's works on the Firth of Forth.

Here the ſhore begins to grow bold and rocky, and indented in a ſtrange manner with ſmall and deep creeks, or rather immenſe and horrible chaſms. The famous Bullers of Buchan lie about a mile north of Bowneſs: Bullers of Buchan. are a vaſt hollow in a rock, projecting into the ſea, open at top, with a communication to the ſea through a noble natural arch, thro' which boats can paſs, and lie ſecure in this natural harbor. There is a path round the top, but in ſome parts too narrow to walk on with ſatisfaction, as the depth is about thirty fathom, with water on both ſides, being bounded on the north and ſouth by ſmall creeks.

Near this is a great inſulated rock, divided by a narrow and very deep chaſm from the land. This rock is pierced through midway between the water and the top, and in great ſtorms the waves ruſh through it with vaſt noiſe and impetuoſity. On the [120] ſides, as well as thoſe of the adjacent cliffs,Kittiwakes. breed multitudes of Kittiwakes ^*. The young are a fa⯑vorite diſh in North Britain, being ſerved up a little before dinner, as a whet for the appetite; but, from the rank ſmell and taſte, ſeem as if they were more likely to have a contrary effect. I was told of an honeſt gentleman who was ſet down for the firſt time to this kind of whet, as he ſuppoſed; and after demoliſhing half a dozen, with much im⯑patience declared, that he had eaten fax, and did not find himſelf a bit more hungry than before he began.

Fiſhery of ſea dogs. On this coaſt is a great fiſhery of Sea Dogs ^†, which begins the laſt week of July, and ends the firſt in September. The livers are boiled for oil; the bodies ſplit, dried, and ſold to the common people, who come from great diſtances for them. There are very fine Turbot taken on this coaſt; and towards Peterbead, good fiſheries of Cod and Ling. The Lord of the Manour has 3l. 6s. 8d. per annum from every boat, (a ſix-man boat) but if a new crew ſets up, the Lord, by way of encou⯑ragement, finds them a boat. Beſides theſe, they have little yawls for catching bait at the foot of the rocks. Muſcles are alſo much uſed for bait, and many boats loads are brought for that purpoſe from the mouth of the Ythen. Of late years, a very ſucceſsfull ſalmon fiſhery has been ſet up in the ſandy bays below Slains. This is performed by long nets, carried out to ſea by boats, a great com⯑paſs taken, and then hawled on ſhore. It is re⯑marked, [121] marked, theſe fiſh ſwim againſt the wind, and are much better taſted than thoſe taken in freſh waters.

Moſt of the labor on ſhore is performed here by the women: they will carry as much fiſh as two men can lift on their ſhoulders, and when they have ſold their cargo and emptied their baſket, will re⯑place part of it with ſtones: they go ſixteen miles to ſell or barter their fiſh; are very fond of finery, and will load their fingers with trumpery rings, when they want both ſhoes and ſtockings. The fleet was the laſt war ſupplied with great numbers of men from this and other parts of Scotland, as well as the army: I think near 70,000 engaged in the general cauſe, and aſſiſted in carrying our glory through all parts of the globe: of the former, numbers returned; of the latter, very few.

The houſes in this country are built with clay,Houſes. tempered in the ſame manner as the Iſraelites made their bricks in the land of AEgypt: after dreſſing the clay, and working it up with water, the la⯑borers place on it a large ſtratum of ſtraw, which is trampled into it and made ſmall by horſes: then more is added, till it arrives at a proper conſiſtency, when it is uſed as a plaiſter, and makes the houſes very warm. The roofs are ſarked, i. e. covered with inch-and-half deal, ſawed into three planks, and then nailed to the joiſts, on which the ſtates are pinned.

The land proſpect is extremely unpleaſant; for no trees will grow here, in ſpite of all the pains that have been taken: not but in former times it muſt have been well wooded, as is evident from the numbers of trees dug up in all the bogs. The [122] fame nakedneſs prevales over great part of this coaſt, even far beyond Bamiſſ, except in a few warm bottoms.

The corn of this tract is oats and barley; of the laſt I have ſeen very good cloſe to the edges of the cliffs. Rents are paid here partly in caſh, partly in kind; the laſt is commonly ſold to a contractor. The land here being poor, is ſet cheap. The peo⯑ple live hardly: a Common food with them is ſowens, the huſks of oats, firſt put into a barrel with water, in order to grow four, and then boiled.

Croſſed the country towards Bamſſ, AUG. 11. over oat⯑lands, a coarſe ſort of downs, and ſeveral black heathy moors, without a ſingle tree for numbers of miles.Craigſton Caſtle. See Craigſton caſtle, a good houſe, once deſenſible, ſeated in a ſnug bottom, where the plan⯑tations thrive greatly. Saw here a head of David Leſly, by Jameſon, and another of Sir Alexander Frazier, by the ſame. Paſſed by a ſmall ruined caſtle, at a place called Caſtleton, ſeated on a round hill in a deep glen, and ſcarce acceſſible. Ford the Devron, a fine river, over which had been a beau⯑tifull bridge, now warned away by the floods. Reach

Bamſſ, Bamſſ. pleaſantly ſeated on the ſide of a hill; has ſeveral ſtreets; but that with the town-houſe in it, adorned with a new ſpire, is very handſome: the harbor is very bad, as the entrance at the mouth of the Devron is very uncertain, being often ſtopped by the ſhifting of the ſands, which are continually changing, in great ſtorms; the pier is therefore placed on the outſide. Much ſalmon is exported [123] exported from hence. About Troop head, ſome kelp is made; and the adventurers pay the Lord of the Manour 50l. per ann. for the liberty of collect⯑ing the materials.

The Earl of Finlater has a houſe, prettily ſeated on an eminence, near the town, with ſome planta⯑tions of ſhrubs and ſmall trees, which have a good effect in ſo bare a country. The proſpect is very fine, commanding the fine meadows near the town, Down a ſmall but well-built fiſhing-town, the great promontory of Troop-head, and to the north the hills of Roſsſhire, Sutherland, and Cathneſs.

The houſe once belonged to the Sharps; and the violent archbiſhop of that name was born here. In one of the apartments is a picture of Jameſon, by himſelf, ſitting in his painting-room, dreſſed like Rubens, and with his hat on, and his pallet in his hand. On the walls are repreſented hung up, the pictures of Charles I. and his Queen; a head of his owh wife; another head; two ſea views, and Per⯑ſeus and Andromeda, the productions of his various pencil.

Duff Houſe a vaſt pile of building, a little from the town,Duff Houſe⯑way is a ſquare, with a ſquare tower at each end; the front richly ornamented with carving, but, for want of wings, has a naked look: the rooms within are very ſmall, and by no means anſwer the magnificence of the caſe.

In the apartments are theſe pictures: Frances, Dutcheſs of Richmond, full length, in black, with a little picture at her breaſt. AEt. 57, 1633, by Vandyk. Fine heads of Charles I. and his Queen. A head of a Duff, with ſhort grey hair, by Alexander [124] of Corſenday. Near the houſe is a ſhrubery, with, a walk two miles long leading to the river.

About two miles weſt of Bamſſ, AUG. 12. not far from the ſea, is a great ſtratum of ſand and ſhells, uſed with ſucceſs as a manure. Sea tang is alſo much uſed for corn-lands, ſometimes by itſelf, ſometimes mixed with earth, and left to rot: it is beſides often laid freſh on graſs, and anſwers very well. Paſſed by the houſe of Boyne, a ruined caſtle, on the edge of a ſteep glen, filled with ſome good aſh and maples.

Near Portſoy, a ſmall town, is a large ſtratum of marble, a coarſe ſort of Verd di Corſica, uſed in ſome houſes for chimney-pieces. Reach

Cullen Houſe,Cullen Houſe. ſeated at the edge of a deep glen full of very large trees, which being out of the reach of the ſea winds proſper greatly. This ſpot is very prettily laid out in walks, and over the en⯑trance is a magnificent arch ſixty feet high, and eighty-two in width. The houſe is large, but ir⯑regular. The moſt remarkable pictures are, a full length of James VI. by Mytens: at the time of the revolution, the mob had taken it out of Holyrood Houſe, and were kicking it about the ſtreets, when the Chancellor, the Earl of Finlater, happening to paſs by, redeemed it out of their hands. A por⯑trait of James Duke of Hamilton, beheaded 1649, in a large black cloak, with a ſtar, by Vandyk. A half-length of his brother, by the ſame, killed at the battle of Worceſter. William Duke of Hamilton, preſident of the revolution parlement, by Kneller. Old Lord Bamſſ, aged 90, with a long white ſquare [125] beard, who is ſaid to have incurred the cenſure of the church, at that age, for his galantries ^*.

The country round Cullen has all the marks of improvement, owing to the ^† indefatigable pains of the late noble owner, in advancing the art of agriculture and planting, and every other uſefull buſineſs, as far as the nature of the ſoil would ad⯑mit. His ſucceſs in the firſt was very great; the crops of beans, peas, oats, and barley, were ex⯑cellent; the wheat very good, but, through the fault of the climate, will not ripen till it is late, the harveſt in theſe parts being in October. The plantations are very extenſive, and reach to the top of the hill of Knock; but the farther they extend from the bottoms the worſe they ſucceed.

The town of Cullen is mean; yet has about a hundred looms in it, there being a flouriſhing ma⯑nufacture of linnen and thread, of which near fifty thouſand pounds worth is annually made.

Near this town the Duke of Cumberland, after his march from Bamſſ, joined the reſt of his forces from Straithbogie, and encamped at Cullen.

In a ſmall ſandy bay are three lofty ſpiring rocks, formed of ſlinty maſſes, cemented together very [126] differently from any ſtratum in the country. Theſe are called the three Kings of Cullen. A little far⯑ther is another vaſt rock, pierced quite through, formed of pebbly concretions lodged in clay, which had ſubſided in thick but regular layers.

Paſſed through a fine open country,AUG 13. full of gen⯑tle riſings, and rich in corn, with a few clumps of trees ſparingly ſcatered over it. Great uſe is made here of ſtone marle,Stone marle. a gritty indurated marle, found in vaſt ſtrata, dipping pretty much: it is of dif⯑ferent colors, blue, pale brown, and reddiſh; is cut out of the quarry, and laid very thick on the ground in lumps, but will not wholly diſſolve un⯑der three or four years. In the quarry is a great deal of ſparry matter, which is laid apart, and burnt for lime. Arrive at

Caſtle-Gordou, Caſtle Gordou. a large old houſe, the ſeat of the Duke of Gordon, lying in a low wet country, near ſome large well-grown woods, and a conſiderable one of great hollies. The principal pictures in Caſtle-Gordon are, the firſt Marquiſs of Huntly. Fourth Marquiſs of Huntly, beheaded by the Co⯑venanters. His ſon, the gallant Lord Gordon, Montroſe's friend, killed at the battle of Auldſort. Lord Lewis Gordon, a leſs generous warrior; the plague ^* of the people of Murray, (then the ſeat of the Covenanters) whoſe character, with that of the [127] brave Montroſe, is well contraſted in theſe old lines:

The head of the ſecond Counteſs of Huntly, daughter of James I. A fine ſmall portrait of the Abbé d' Aubigné, ſitting in his ſtudy. A very fine head of St. John receiving the revelation; a beau⯑tifull expreſſion of attention and devotion.

The Duke of Gordon ſtill keeps up the diverſion of falconry,Falconry. and had ſeveral fine Hawks, of the Peregrine and gentle Falcon ſpecies, which breed in the rocks of Glenmore. I ſaw alſo here a true Highland gre-hound, which is now become very ſcarce: it was of a very large ſize, ſtrong, deep cheſted, and covered with very long and rough hair. This kind was in great vogue in former days, and uſed in vaſt numbers, at the magnificent ſtag-chaſes, by the powerfull Chieftains.

The Spey is a dangerous neighbor to Caſtle-Gordon; The Spey. a large and furious river, overflowing very frequently in a dreadfull manner, as appears by its ravages far beyond its banks. The bed of the river is wide and full of gravel, and the channel very ſhifting.

The Duke of Cumberland paſſed this water at Beily church, near this place, when the channel was ſo deep as to take an officer, from whom I had the relation, and who was ſix feet four inches high, up to the breaſt. The oppoſite banks are very high and ſteep; ſo that, had not the Rebels been pro⯑videntially ſo inſatuated as to neglect oppoſition, [128] the paſſage muſt have been attended with conſi⯑derable loſs.

The ſalmon fiſhery on this river is very great: about ſeventeen hundred barrels full are caught in the ſeaſon, and the ſhore is rented for about 1200l. per annum.

Paſſed through Forcbabus, AUG. 14. Forcbabus. a wretched town, cloſe to the caſtle. Croſſed the Spey in a boat, and landed in the county of Murray.

The peaſants houſes, which, throughout the ſhire of Bamſſ, were very decent, were now become very miſerable, being entirely made of turf: the country partly moor, partly cultivated, but in a very ſlo⯑venly manner.

Elgin. Dine at Elgin ^*, a good town, with many of the houſes built over piazzas; has little trade; but is remarkable for its eccleſiaſtical antiquities. The cathedral ^† had been a magnificent pile, but is now in ruins. Jonſton, in his encomia urbium, ce⯑lebrates the beauty of Elgin, and laments the fate of this noble building:

The weſt door is very elegant, and richly orna⯑mented. The choir very beautifull, and has a fine [129] and light gallery running round it; and at the eaſt end are two rows of narrow windows in an excel⯑lent gothic taſte. The chapter-houſe is an octagon, the roof ſupported by a fine ſingle column, with neat carvings of coats of arms round the capital. There is ſtill a great tower on each ſide of this cathe⯑dral; but that in the centre, with the ſpire and whole roof, are fallen in, and form moſt awefull frag⯑ments, mixed with the battered monuments of Knights and Prelates. Boethius ſays that Duncan, who was killed by Macbeth at Inverneſs, lies buried here. Numbers of modern tomb-ſtones alſo crowd the place; a proof how difficult it is to eradicate the opinion of local fanctity, even in a religion that affects to deſpiſe it.

About, a mile from hence is the caſtle of Spinie; Spinie. a large ſquare tower, and a vaſt quantity of other ruined buildings, ſtill remain, which ſhews its antient magnificence whilſt the reſidence of the Biſhops of Murray: the lake of Spinie almoſt waſhes the walls; is about five miles long, and half a mile broad, ſeated in a flat country. Du⯑ring winter, great numbers of wild ſwans migrate hither; and I have been told, that ſome have bred here. Boethius ^* ſays they reſort here for the ſake of a certain herb called after their name.

Between, this and Elgin is a ruined chapel, called Maiſon dieu. Near it is a large gravelly cliff, from whence is a beautifull view of the town, cathedral, a round hill with the remains of a caſtle, and beneath, is the gentle ſtream of the Loſſie, the Loxia of Prolomy.

[130] Pluſcairdin Abby. Three miles ſouth is the Abby of Pluſcairdin, in a moſt ſequeſtred place; a beautifull ruin, the arches elegant, the pillars well turned, and the capitals rich ^*.

Croſs the Loſſie, ride along the edge of a vale, which has a ſtrange mixture of good corn and black turberies: on the road-ſide is a mill-ſtone quarry.

Arrive in the rich plain of Murray, fertile in corn. The view of the Firth of Murray, with a full proſpect of the high mountains of Roſsſhire and Sutherland, and the magnificent entrance into the bay of Cromartie between two lofty hills, form a fine piece of ſcenery.

Kinloſs Abby. Turn about half a mile out of the road to the north, to ſee Kinloſs Abby ^†, the burying-place of many a Scottiſh monarch. The Prior's chamber, two ſemicircular arches, the pillars, the couples of ſeveral of the roofs, afford ſpecimens of the moſt beautifull gothic architecture in all the elegance of ſimplicity, without any of its fantaſtic ornaments. Near the abby is an orchard of apple and pear trees, at left coeval with the laſt Monks; numbers lie proſtrate; their venerable branches ſeem to have taken freſh roots, and were loaden with fruit, be⯑yond what could be expected from their antique look.

Near Forres, Great column. on the road-ſide, is a vaſt column, three feet ten inches broad, and one foot three inches thick: the height above ground is twenty-three feet; below, as is ſaid, twelve or fifteen. On one [131] ſide are numbers of rude figures of animals and armed men, with colors flying: ſome of the men ſeemed bound like captives. On the oppoſite ſide was a croſs, included in a circle, and raiſed a little above the ſurface of the ſtone. At the foot of the croſs are two gigantic figures, and on one of the ſides is ſome elegant fret-work.

This is called King Sueno's ſtone; and ſeems to be, as Mr. Gordon ^* conjectures, erected by the Scots, in memory of the final retreat of the Danes: it is evidently not Daniſh, as ſome have aſſerted; the croſs diſproves the opinion, for this nation had not at that time received the light of chriſtianity.

On a moor not far from Forres, Boethius, and Shakeſpear from him, places the rencountre of Mac⯑beth and the three wayward ſiſters, or witches. It was my fortune to meet with but one, which was ſomewhere in the laſt county: ſhe was of a ſpecies far more dangerous than theſe, but neither withered nor wild in her attire, but ſo fair,

She look'd not like an inhabitant o' th' Earth!

Lay at Forres, a very neat town, ſeated under ſome little hills,Forres. which are prettily divided. In the great ſtreet is the town-houſe with a handſome cu⯑polo, and at the end is an arched gateway, which has a good effect. On a hill weſt of the town are the poor remains of the caſtle, from whence is a fine view of a rich country, interſperſed with groves, the bay of Findorn, a fine baſon, almoſt round, with a narrow ſtrait into it from the ſea, and a me⯑lancholy proſpect of the pariſh of the ſame name, [132] Inundation of ſand now nearly overwhelmed with ſand. This ſtrange inundation is ſtill in motion, but moſtly in the time of a weſt wind: it moves along the ſurface with an even progreſſion, but is ſtopped by water, after which it forms little hills: its motion is ſo quick, that a gentleman aſſured me he had ſeen an apple⯑tree ſo covered with it, in one ſeaſon, as to leave only a few of the green leaves of the upper branches appear above the ſurface. An eſtate of about 300l. per ann. has been thus overwhelmed; and it is not long ſince the chimnies of the prin⯑cipal houſes were to be ſeen: it began about eighty years ago, occaſioned by the cutting down the trees and pulling up the bent, or ſtarwort, which gave occaſion at laſt to the act 15th G. II. to prevent its farther ravages.

Croſs the Findorn; AUG. 15. land near a friable rock of whitiſh ſtone, much tinged with green, an indica⯑tion of copper. The ſtone is barren for lime. From an adjacent eminence is a pictureſque view of Forres. Tarnaway Caſtle. About three miles farther, is Tarnaway Caſtle, the antient ſeat of the Earls of Murray. The hall, called Randolph's Hall, from its founder Earl Randolph, one of the great ſupporters of Robert Bruce, is timbered at top like Weſtminſter-Hall: its dimenſions are 79 feet by 35, 10 inches, and ſeems a fit reſort for Barons and their vaſſals. In the rooms are ſome good heads: one of a youth, with a ribband of ſome order hanging from his neck. One unknown, with a black body to his veſt, and, brown ſleeves. The Fair, or Bonny Earl of Murray, as he: is commonly called, who was murdered, as ſuppoſed, on account [133] of a jealouſy James VI. entertained of a paſſion the Queen had for him: at left ſuch was the po⯑pular opinion, as appears from the old ballad on the occaſion:

There are beſides, the heads of his lady and daugh⯑ter; all are on wood except that of the Earl. To the ſouth-eaſt of the caſtle are large birch woods, abounding with Stags and Roes.

Continued my journey weſt to Auldearne. Auldearne. Am now arrived again in the country where the Erſe ſervice is performed. Juſt beneath the church is the place where Montroſe obtained a ſignal victory over the Covenanters, many of whoſe bodies lie in the church, with an inſcription, importing, accord⯑ing to the cant of the time, that they died fighting for their religion and their king. I was told this anecdote of that hero: That he always carried with him a Caefar's Commentaries, on whole margins were written, in Montroſe's own hand, the generous ſentiments of his heart, verſes out of the Italian Poets, expreſſing contempt of every thing but glory.

Have a diſtant view of Nairn, a ſmall town near the ſea. Ride through a rich corn country, mixed with deep and black turberies, which ſhew the ori⯑ginal ſtate of the land. Reach Calder Caſtle, or Cawdor, as Shakeſpear calls it,Cawdor. once the property of its Thanes. The antient part is a great ſquare [134] tower; but there is a large and more modern building annexed, with a draw-bridge.

All the houſes in theſe parts are caſtles, or at left deſenſible; for, till the year 1745, die High⯑landers made their inroads, and drove away the cattle of their deſenceleſs neighbors. There are ſaid to exiſt ſome very old marriage articles of the daughter of a chieftain, in which the father promiſes for her portion, 200 Scots marks, and the half of a Mi⯑chaelmas moon, i. e. half the plunder, when the nights grew dark enough to make their excurſions.

Rode into the woods of Calder, in which were very fine birch trees and alders, ſome oak, great broom, and juniper, which gave ſhelter to the Roes. Deep rocky glens, darkened with trees, bound each ſide of the wood: one has a great torrent roar⯑ing at its diſtant bottom, called the Brook of Ach⯑neem: it well merits the name of that of Acheron, being a moſt fit ſcene for witches to celebrate their nocturnal rites in.

Obſerved on a pillar of the door of Calder church,A joug. a joug, i.e. an iron yoke, or ring, faſtened to a chain; which was, in former times, put round the necks of delinquents againſt the rules of the church, who were left there expoſed to ſhame during the time of divine ſervice:Scotch clergy. but theſe penalties are now happily aboliſhed. The clergy of Scotland, the moſt decent and conſiſtent in their conduct of any ſet of men I ever met with of their order, are at preſent much changed from the furious, illiterate, and enthuſiaſtic teachers of the old times, and have taken up the mild method of perſuaſion, in⯑ſtead of the cruel diſcipline of corporal puniſh⯑ments. [135] Science almoſt univerſally flouriſhes among them; and their diſcourſe is not leſs improving than the table they entertain the ſtranger at is decent and hoſpitable. Few, very few of them, permit the bewitchery of diſſipation to lay hold of them, notwithſtanding they allow all the innocent pleaſures of others, which, though not criminal in the layman, they know, muſt bring the taint of levity on the churchman. They never ſink their characters by midnight brawls, by mixing with the gaming world, either in cards, cocking, or horſe⯑ [...]aces, but preſerve, with a narrow income, a dig⯑nity too often loft among their brethren ſouth of the Tweed.

The Scotch livings are from 40l. per ann. to 150l.Scotch livings. per ann. a decent houſe is built for the miniſter on the glebe, and about ſix acres of land annexed. The church allows no curate, except in caſe of ſickneſs or age, when one, under the title of helper, is ap⯑pointed; or, where the livings are very extenſive, a miſſionary or aſſiſtant is allotted; but fine-cures, or fine-cured preſerments, never diſgrace the church of our ſiſter kingdom. The widows and children of thoſe who die in poor circumſtances are of late provided for out of a fund eſtabliſhed by two acts, 17th and 22d, G. II.^*

Croſs the Nairn; the bridge large, but the ſtream inconſiderable, except in floods. On the weſt, is Kilravoch Caſtle, and that of Dalcroſs. Keep due north, along the military road from Perth; paſs [136] along a narrow low piece of land, projecting, far into the Firth, called Arderſier, forming, a ſtrait ſcarce a mile over,Fort George. between this county and that of Cromartie ^*. At the end of this point is Fort George, a ſmall but ſtrong and regular fortreſs, built ſince 1745, as a place d'armes: it is kept in excellent order; but, by reaſon of the happy change of the times, ſeemed almoſt deſerted: the barracks are very handſome, and form ſeveral re⯑gular and good ſtreets.

Lay at Cambeltown, a place conſiſting of num⯑bers of very mean houſes, owing its riſe and ſup⯑port to the neighboring fort.

Paſſed over Culloden Moor, AUG. 16. Culloden. the place that North Britain owes its preſent proſperity to, by the victory of April 16, 1746. On the ſide of the Moor are the great plantations of Culloden Houſe, the ſeat of Duncan Forbes, a warm and active friend to the houſe of Hanover, who ſpent great ſums in its ſer⯑vice, and by his influence, and by his perſuaſions, diverted numbers from joining in rebellion; at length he met with a cool return, for his humane but unpolitical attempt to ſheath, after victory, the unſatiated ſword. But let a veil be ſlung over a few exceſſes conſequential of a day productive of ſo much benefit to the united kingdoms.

The Duke of Cumberland, when he found that the barges of the fleet attended near the ſhore for the ſafety of his perſon, in caſe of a defeat, imme⯑diately ordered them away, to convince his men of the reſolution he had taken of either conquering or periſhing with them.

After deſcending from the Moor, got into a well cultivated country; and after riding ſome time under low but pleaſant hills, not far from the ſea, reach

INVERNESS, finely ſeated on a plain,INVERNESS. between the Firth of the ſame name and the river Neſs: the firſt, from the narrow ſtrait of Arderſier, inſtantly widens into a fine bay, and again as ſuddenly con⯑tracts oppoſite Inverneſs, at the ferry of Keſſock, the paſs into Roſsſhire. The town is large and well built, and very populous, being the laſt of any note in North Britain. On the north is Oliver's Fort, a pentagon; but only the form remains to be traced by the ditches and banks. Near it is a very con⯑ſiderable rope manufacture. On an eminence ſouth of the town is old Fort George, which was taken and blown up by the Rebels: it had been no more than a very antient caſtle, the place where Boethius ſays that Duncan was murdered: from thence is a moſt charming view of the Firth, the paſſage of Keſſock, the river Neſs, the ſtrange ſhaped hill of Tommin heurich, and various groupes of diſtant mountains.

[138] That ſingular Tommin is of an oblong form, broad at the baſe, and ſloping on all ſides towards the top; ſo that it looks like a great ſhip with its keel upwards. Its ſides and part of the neigh⯑boring plains are planted, ſo it is both an agreeable walk and a fine object. It is perfectly detached from any other hill; and if it was not for its great ſize, might paſs ^* for a work of art. The view from it is ſuch, that no traveller will think his labor loſt, after gaining the ſummit.

At Inverneſs, and I believe at other towns in Scot⯑land, is an officer, called Dean of the Guild, who, aſſiſted by a council, ſuperintends the markets, re⯑gulates the price ^† of proviſions; and if any houſe falls down, and the owner lets it lie in ruins for three years, the Dean can abſolutely diſpoſe of the ground to the beſt bidder.

Croſs the Neſs on a bridge of ſeven arches, above which the tide flows for about a mile.

Proceed north; have a fine view of the Firth, which now widens again from Keſſock into a large bay ſome miles in length. The hills ſlope down to the water-ſide, and are finely cultivated; but the diſtant proſpect is of rugged mountains of a ſtu⯑pendous height, as if created as guards to the reſt of the iſland from the fury of the boiſterous north. [139] Ride cloſe to the water-edge thro' woods of alder, paſs near ſeveral houſes of the Fraziers, and reach

Caſtle Dunie, Caſtle Dunie. the ſite of the houſe of their chief⯑tain Lord Lovat.

The old houſe, which was very mean, was burnt down in 1746; but a neat box, the reſidence of the hoſpitable factor, is built in its ſtead on a high bank well wooded, over the pretty river Bewley, or Beaulieu. The country, for a certain circuit, is fertile, well cultivated, and ſmiling. The bulk of Lord Lovat's eſtate was in theſe parts; the reſt, to the amount of 500l. per ann. in Straitherick. He was a potent chieftain, and could raiſe about 1000 men: but I found his neighbors ſpoke as unfa⯑vorably of him, as his enemies did in the moſt diſtant parts of the kingdom. His property is one of the annexed eſtates, i. e. ſettled unalienably on the crown, as all the forfeited fortunes in the High⯑lands are:Forfeited eſtates. the whole value of which brought in at that time about 6000l. per ann. and thoſe in the Lowlands about the ſame ſum; ſo that the power and intereſt of a poor twelve thouſand per ann. terrified and nearly ſubverted the conſtitution of theſe powerfull kingdoms.

The profits or theſe eſtates are lodged in the hands of Truſtees, who apply their revenue for the founding of ſchools for the inſtruction of chil⯑dren in ſpinning; wheels are given away to poor families, and flax-ſeed to farmers. Some money is given in aid of the roads, and towards building bridges over the torrents; by which means a ready intercourſe is made to parts before inacceſſible to [140] ſtrangers ^*. And in 1753, a large ſum was ſpent on an Utopian project of eſtabliſhing colonies (on the forfeited eſtates) of diſbanded ſoldiers and ſailors: comfortable houſes were built for them, land and money given, and ſome lent; but the ſucceſs by no means anſwered the intentions of the projectors.

Ford the Bewley, AUG. 17. where a ſalmon fiſhery, belong⯑ing to the Lovat eſtate, rents at 120l. per annum. Leornamonach. The country on this ſide the river is called Leornamo⯑nach, or the Monk's Land, having formerly been the property of the Abby of Bewly; and the oppo⯑ſite ſide bears the name of Airds, Airds. or the Heights. Paſs by ſome excellent farms, well encloſed, im⯑proved, and planted; the land produces wheat and other corn. Much cattle are bred in theſe parts, and there are ſeveral linnen manufactures.

Ford the Conan to Caſtle Braan, Caſtle Braan. the ſeat of Lord Fortroſe; a good houſe, pleaſantly ſituated on the ſide of a hill, commands a view of a large plain, and to the weſt a wild proſpect of broken and lofty mountains.

There is here a fine full length of Mary Stuart, with this inſcription, Maria D. G. Scotiae piiſſima regina. Franciae Dotaria. Anno Aetatis Regni 38. 1580. Her dreſs is black, with a ruff, cap, hand⯑kerchief, and a white veil down to the ground, beads and prayer-book, and a croſs hanging from her neck; her hair dark brown, her face handſome, and conſidering the difference of years, ſo much reſembling her portrait by Zucchero, in Chiſwick [141] Houſe, as to leave little doubt as to the originality of the laſt.

A ſmall half-length on wood of Henry Darnly, inſcribed Henricus Stuardus Dominus Darnly, Aet. IX. M.D.LV. dreſſed in black, with a ſword; it is the figure of a pretty boy.

A fine portrait of Cardinal Richlieu. General Monk, in a buff coat. Head of Sir George Mac⯑kenſie. The Earl of Seaforth, called, from his ſize, Kenneth More. Dutcheſs of Beaufort, daughter of the Marquiſs of Powis. Earl of Caſtlemaine, admi⯑ral in the time of Charles II.

Near the houſe are ſome very fine oaks and horſe-cheſnuts: in the garden, Turky apricots, orange nectarines, and a ſmall ſoft peach, ripe; other peaches, nectarines, and green gages, far from ripe.

Paſs through Dingwall, a ſmall town,Dingwall. the capital of Roſsſhire, ſituated near the head of the Firth of Cromartie: an antient croſs, and an obeliſk over the burying-place of the Earls of Cromartie's fa⯑mily, were all I ſaw remarkable in it.

Ride along a very good road cut on the ſide of a hill with the country very well cultivated above and below, with ſeveral ſmall woods interſperſed near the water's edge. There is a fine view of al⯑moſt the whole bay, the moſt capacious and ſecure of any in Great Britain; Firth of Cro⯑martie. its whole navy might lie there with eaſe, and ſhips of two hundred tuns may ſail up above two-thirds of its length, which ex⯑tends thirty miles, from the Sutters ^* of Cromartie [142] to a ſmall diſtance beyond Dingwall: the entrance is narrow; the projecting hills defend this fine bay from all winds; ſo it juſtly merits the name given it of Portus ſalutis.

FOULES,FOULES. the ſeat of Sir Henry Monro, lies about a mile from the Firth, near vaſt plantations on the flats, as well as on the hills. Thoſe on the hills are ſix miles in length, and in a very flouriſhing ſtate. On the back of theſe are extenſive vallies full of oats, bounded by mountains, which here, as well as in the Highlands, in general run from eaſt to weſt. Sir Henry holds a foreſt from the crown by a very whimſical tenure,Singular tenure. that of delivering a ſnow⯑ball on any day of the year that it is demanded; and he ſeems to be in no danger of forfeiting his right by failure of the quit-rent, for ſnow lies in form of a glaciere in the chaſms of Benwewiſh, a neighboring mountain, throughout the year.

Continue my journey along the low country,AUG. 18. which is rich and well cultivated.

Paſs near Invergordon, ^*, a handſome houſe, amidſt fine plantations. Near it is the narroweſt part of the Firth, and a ferry into the ſhire of Cromarty, now a country almoſt deſtitute of trees; yet, in the time of James V. was covered with timber, and over-run with wolves ^†.

[143] Near the ſummit of the hill,Ballinagouan. between the Firths of Cromartie and Dornoch, is Ballinagouan, the ſeat of a gentleman, who has moſt ſucceſsfully converted his ſword into a plough-ſhare; who, after a ſeries of diſintereſted ſervices to his country, by clearing the ſeas of privateers, the moſt unprofitable of cap⯑tures, has applied himſelf to arts not leſs deſerving of its thanks. He is the beſt farmer and the greateſt planter in the country: his wheat and his turneps ſhew the one, his plantations of a million of pines each year the other ^*. It was with great ſatisfaction that I obſerved characters of this kind very frequent in North Britain; for during the in⯑terval of peace, every officer poſſeſſed of any pa⯑trimony was fond of retiring to it, aſſumed the far⯑mer without flinging off the gentleman, enjoyed rural quiet; yet ready to undergo the fatigues of war the moment his country clamed his ſervices.

About two miles below Ballinagouan is a melan⯑choly inſtance of a reverſe of conduct: the ruins of New Tarbat, once the magnificent ſeat of an unhappy nobleman,New Tarbat [...] who plunged into a moſt un⯑gratefull rebellion, deſtructive to himſelf and fa⯑mily. The tenants, who ſeem to inhabit it gratis, are forced to ſhelter themſelves from the weather in the very loweſt apartments, while ſwallows make their neſts in the bold ſtucco of ſome of the upper.

While I was in this county, I heard a ſingular but well-atteſted relation of a woman diſordered in [144] her health, who faſted for a ſupernatural ſpace of time; but the length of the narrative obliges me to fling it into the Appendix ^*.

Ride along a tedious black moor to Tain, a ſmall town on the Firth of Dornoch; diſtinguiſhed for no⯑thing but its large ſquare tower, decorated with five ſmall ſpires. The place appeared very gay at this time; for all the gaudy finery of a little fair was diſplayed in the ſhew of hard ware, painted linnens, and ribbands. Kept along the ſhore, for about two miles, through an open corn country, and croſſing the great ferry, in breadth near two miles, thro' a rapid tide, and in a bad boat, land in the county of Sutherland, and in leſs than an hour reach its capital,

DORNOCH,DORNOCH. a ſmall town, half in ruins; once the reſidence of the Biſhops of Cathneſs, and, like Dur⯑ham, the ſeat of Eccleſiaſtics: many of the houſes ſtill are called after the titles of thoſe that inhabited them: the Biſhop lodged in the caſtle: the Dean's houſe is at preſent the inn: the cathedral was in form of a croſs, is now a ruin, except part, which is the preſent church. On the doors and window-ſhutters were painted (as is common in many parts of North Britain) white tadpole-like figures on a black ground, deſigned to expreſs the tears of the country for the loſs of any perſon of diſtinction. Theſe were occaſioned by the affecting end of that amiable pair the young Earl and Counteſs of Suther⯑land, who were lovely in their lives, and in their deaths they were not divided, for their happineſs was interrupted by a very ſhort ſeparation; ſanè ubi [145] idem et maximus et boneſtiſſimus amor eſt, aliquando proeſtat morte jungi, quam vita diſtrabi.

Ride on a plain not far from the ſea; paſs by a ſmall croſs, called the Thane's Croſs; and not far from thence the ſpot where an unhappy creature had been burnt, if I miſtake not, in June 1727, for the imaginary crime of witchcraft ^*.

Croſs a very narrow inlet to a ſmall bay at Porth⯑beg, or the little ferry, in a boat as dangerous as the laſt; for horſes can neither get in or out with⯑out great riſque, from the vaſt height of the ſides and their want of ſlips. Keep along the ſhore, paſs by the ſmall village of Golſpie, and reach

Dunrobin caſtle, the antient ſeat of the Earls of Sutherland, Dunrobin. founded about the year 1100, ſituated on a round hill at a ſmall diſtance from the ſea. The few paintings here are, an Earl of Murray, an [146] old man, on wood. His ſon and two daughters, by Co. G. 1628. A fine full length of Charles I. Angus Williamſon, a heroe of the clan Chattan, who reſcued the Sutherlands in the time of diſtreſs. A very ſingular picture of the Duke of Alva in coun⯑cil, with a cardinal by his ſide, who puts a pair of bellows blown by the Devil into his ear: the Duke has a chain in one hand, fixed to the necks of the kneeling Flemings; in the other he ſhews them a paper of recantation for them to ſign, behind whom are the reformed Clergy.

The demeſn is kept in excellent order, and I ſaw here (lat. 58.) a very fine field of wheat, which would be ripe about the middle of next month. This was the laſt wheat which had been ſown this year in North Britain.

Sutherland is a country abounding in cattle, and ſends out annually 2500 head, which ſold about this time from 2l. 10s. to 3l. ^* per head. Theſe are very frequently without horns, and both they and the horſes are very ſmall. Stags abound in the hills, there being reckoned not leſs than 1600 on the Sutherland eſtate, which, in fact, is the greateſt part of the county. Beſides theſe are Roes, Grous, black game and Ptarmigans in plenty, and during winter multitudes of water-fowl on the coaſt.

Not far from Dunrobin is a very entire antiquity of the kind known in Scotland by the name of the Pictiſh Caſtles,Pictiſh Caſtle. and called here Cairn Lean, or a grey tower: that I ſaw was about 130 yards in circumference, round, and raiſed ſo high above the [147] ground as to form a conſiderable mount: on the top was an extenſive but ſhallow hollow; within were three low concentric galleries, at ſmall diſ⯑tances from each other, covered above with large ſtones; and the ſide-walls were about four or five feet thick, rudely made. There are generally three of theſe places near each other, ſo that each may be ſeen from any one. Whether theſe were the ſuffugia hiemi aut receptacula frugibus of the Picts, as they were of the Germans, or whether they might not have been uſed for religious purpoſes, as ſuch hollows have been in Norway, ^* I will not pretend to decide: if the laſt, I would ſuppoſe ſome of the galleries to be for the prieſts, the others for the victims, who were choſen by lot, and who might be brought to be ſacrificed in the concave area above, which was well adapted to retain their blood, that was to be ſprinkled on the ſpectators, on the poſts of their houſes, and on the ſails of their ſhips†.

Kept along the ſhore northward. About a mile from the caſtle are ſome ſmall cliffs of free-ſtone;AUG. 19. in one is Straith-leven Cove, an artificial cave, with ſeats and ſeveral ſhallow circular hollows cut within⯑ſide. At ſome diſtance, and near the ſea, are ſmall ſtrata of coal three feet thick dipping to the eaſt,Coal. and found at the depth of about 14 to 24 yards. Sometimes it takes fire on the bank, which has given it ſo ill a name, that people are very fearfull of taking it aboard their ſhips. I am ſur⯑prized ¹¹⁴ [148] that they will not run the riſque, conſidering the miraculous quality it poſſeſſes of driving away rats wherever it is uſed. This is believed by the good people of Sutherland, who aſſured me ſeriouſly of its virtues; and they farther attributed the ſame to the earth and very heath of their county. They add too, that not a rat will live with them, not⯑withſtanding they ſwarm in the adjacent ſhires of Roſs and Cathneſs ^*.

In Aſſynt, a part of this county, far weſt of Dun⯑robin, are large ſtrata of a beautifull white marble, equal, as I was told, to the Parian. I afterwards ſaw ſome of the ſame kind found at Glenavon in Badenoch.

Croſs the water of Brora, which runs along a deep chaſm, over which is a handſome bridge of a ſingle arch. Near is a cave, where the Salmon⯑fiſhers lie during the ſeaſon: the roof is pierced through to the ſurface, which ſerves for a natural chimney. They take annually about 10 or 12 laſts of fiſh. In a bank not far from the bridge are found abundance of Belemnitae.

[149] The country is very ſandy, and the arable, or cultivated part, very narrow, confined on the eaſt by the ſea, on the weſt by lofty black mountains, which approach nearer and nearer to the water, till at length they project into it at the great promon⯑tory the Ord of Cathneſs, the boundary between that county and Sutherland, after which the coaſt is bold and rocky, except a ſmall bay or two.

Ford the very dangerous water of Hemſdale, Hemſdale. rapid and full of great ſtones. Very large Lampries are found here, fiſh deteſted by the Highlanders. Be⯑neath the ſtones on the ſea-ſhore are abundance of ſpotted and viviparous Blennies, Father Laſhers, and Whiſtle Fiſh. Mackrel appear here this month, but without their roes. I thought them far inferior in goodneſs to thoſe of our country. Much ſalmon is taken here.

The grey Water-wagtail quits this country in the winter; with us it reſides.

Dined at the little village of Hemſdale, near which are the ruins of a ſquare tower.

Paſſed through a rich vale full of good barley and oats between the hill of Hemſdale and the Ord. Ord of Cath⯑neſs. Aſcend that vaſt promontory on a good road wind⯑ing up its ſteep ſides, and impending in many parts over the ſea, infinitely more high and horrible than our Penmaen Mawr. Beneath were numbers of Seals floating on the waves, with ſea-fowl ſwimming among them with great ſecurity. Obſerved pro⯑jecting from one part of the Ord, far below, a ſmall and verdant hill, on which, tradition ſays, was fought a ſingle combat between an Earl of Cathneſs and a ſon of the Earl of Sutherland, while their two [150] armies looked on from above: the firſt was killed on the ſpot, the laſt died of his wounds.

Beneath this cape are immenſe caves, the reſort of Seals ^* and Sea-fowls: the ſides and top are chiefly covered with heath and moraſſy earth, which gives it a black and melancholy look. Ride over ſome boggy and dreary moors. Paſs thro' Auſdale, a little highland village. Deſcend into a deep bot⯑tom covered with alders, willows, birch and wicken trees, to Langwall, the ſeat of Mr. Sutherland, who gave me a very hoſpitable reception. The country abounds with Stags and Roes, and all ſorts of fea⯑thered game, while the adjacent river brings Salmon almoſt up to his door.

Lavellan. I enquired here after the Lavellan, ^†, which, from deſcription, I ſuſpect to be the Water Shrew-mouſe. The country people have a notion that it is noxious to cattle: they preſerve the ſkin, and, as a cure for their ſick beaſts, give them the water in which it has been dipt. I believe it to be the ſame animal which in Sutherland is called the Water Mole.

Proceed on my journey.AUG. 20. Paſs near Berridale. On a peninſula jutting into the ſea is the ruin of the caſtle; between it and the land is a deep chaſm, where there had been a draw-bridge. On this caſtle are ſtationed, in the ſalmon ſeaſon, perſons who are to obſerve the approach of the fiſh to the freſh waters.

[151] Near Clathron is a druidical ſtone ſet an end, and of a moſt ſtupendous ſize.

Saw Dunbeth, the ſeat of Mr. Sinclair, Dunbeth. ſituated on a narrow neck of land; on one ſide impending over the ſea, on the other over a deep chaſm, into which the tide flows: a ſmall narrow garden, with billows beating on three ſides, fills the reſt of the land between the houſe and the ſea. Numbers of old caſtles in this county have the ſame tremendous ſituation. On the weſt ſide of this houſe are a few rows of tolerable trees; the only trees that I ſaw from Berridale to the extremity of Cathneſs ^*. On the right inland are the ſmall remains of Knackennan caſtle, built by an Earl of Cathneſs. From theſe parts is a full view of the lofty naked mountain of Scaraben and Morven. The laſt Ptarmigans in Scotland are on the firſt;Scaraben the laſt Roes about Lang⯑wall, there being neither high hills nor woods be⯑yond. All the county on this ſide, from Dunbeth to the extremity, is flat, or at leſt very ſeldom in⯑terrupted with hills, and thoſe low; but the coaſts rocky, and compoſed of ſtupendous cliffs.

Refreſhed our horſes at a little inn at the hamlet of Clythe, not far from the headland, called Clythe⯑neſs. Reach Thrumſter, a ſeat of Mr. Sinclair's. It is obſervable, that the names of places in this county often terminate in ter and dale, which ſavors of Daniſh origin.

The Sinclairs are very numerous, and poſſeſs conſiderable fortunes in theſe parts; but Boethius [152] ſays, that they, the Fraziers, Campbells, Boſwels, and many others, came originally from France.

Paſs through Wick, AUG. 21. Wick. a ſmall burrough town with ſome good houſes, ſeated on a river within reach of the tide, and at a diſtance lies the old caſtle. Somewhat farther, cloſe to the ſea, is Archringal tower, the ſeat of Sir William Dunbar. Ride over the Links of Keith, on the ſide of Sinclair bay. Theſe were once a moraſs, now covered with ſand, finely turfed over; ſo in this inſtance the land has been obliged by the inſtability of the ſand. The old caſtle of Keiſs is ſeated on a rock, with a good houſe of the ſame name near it.

Near Freſwick caſtle the cliffs are very lofty; the ſtrata that compoſe them lie quite horizontally in ſuch thin and regular layers, and ſo often inter⯑ſected by fiſſures, as to appear like maſonry. Be⯑neath are great inſulated columns, called here Stacks, compoſed of the ſame ſort of natural ma⯑ſonry as the cliffs; many of them are hollowed quite thro', ſo as to form moſt magnificent arches, which the ſea ruſhes thro' with vaſt noiſe and im⯑petuoſity, affording a moſt auguſt piece of ſcenery to ſuch who are ſteady enough to ſurvey it from the narrow and almoſt impending paths.

Freſwick caſtle is ſeated on a narrow rock pro⯑jecting into the ſea,Freſwick caſtle. with juſt room enough for it to ſtand on: the acceſs to it while the draw-bridge was in being, was over a deep chaſm cut thro' the little iſthmus that connected it to the main land. Theſe dreadful ſituations are ſtrongly expreſſive of the jealous and wretched condition of the tyrant owners.

[153] After riding near Freſwick bay, the ſecond ſandy bay in the county, paſs over a very bad moraſs, and after a few miles travel arrive at Dungſby bay ^*, a low tract,Dungſby bay. conſiſting of oat-lands and grazing land: the ultima Thule of Mr. Wallace, whoſe de⯑ſcription it anſwers in this particular.

The beach is a collection of fragments of ſhells; beneath which are vaſt broken rocks, ſome ſunk, others apparent, running into a ſea never pacific. The contrary tides and currents form here a moſt tremendous conteſt; yet, by the ſkilfulneſs of the people, are paſſed with great ſafety in the narrow little boats I ſaw lying on the ſhore.

The points of this bay are Dungſby-head and St. John's head, ſtretching out into the ſea to the eaſt and weſt, forming a pair of horns; from the re⯑ſemblance to which it ſhould ſeem that this country was antiently ſtyled Cornuna.

From hence is a full view of ſeveral of the Orkney iſlands,Orkneys. ſuch as Flota, Waes, Ronaldſa, Swanna, to the weſt the Skerries, and within two miles of land Stroma, famous for its natural mummies,Mummies. or the entire and uncorrupted bodies of perſons who had been dead ſixty years. I was informed that they were very light, had a flexibility in their limbs, and were of a duſky color^‡. This iſle is fertile in corn, [154] is inhabited by about thirty families, who know not the uſe of a plough, but dig every part of their corn land.

Dine at the good miniſter's of Canneſby. On my return ſaw at a diſtance the Stacks of Dungſby, a vaſt inſulated rock, over-topping the land, and ap⯑pearing like a great tower.

Paſſed near the ſeat of a gentleman not long deceaſed; the laſt who was believed to be poſſeſſed of the ſecond ſight. Second ſight. Originally he made uſe of the pretence, in order to render himſelf more reſpectable with his clan; but at length, in ſpite of fine abili⯑ties, was made a dupe to his own artifices, became poſſeſſed with a ſerious belief of the faculty, and for a conſiderable number of years before his death was made truely unhappy by this ſtrange opinion, which originally aroſe from the following accident. A boat of his was on a very tempeſtuous night at ſea; his mind, filled with anxiety at the danger his people were in, furniſhed him with every idea of the misfortune that really befell them: he ſuddenly ſtarting up pronounced that his men would be drowned, for that he had ſeen them paſs before him with wet garments and dropping locks. The event was correſpondent, and be from that time grew confirmed in the reality of ſpectral predictions.

I heard of one inſtance of ſecond ſight; or rather of foreſight, which was well atteſted, and made much noiſe about the time the prediction was ful⯑filled. A little after the battle of Preſton Pans, the preſident, Duncan Forbes, being at his houſe of Cul⯑loden with a nobleman, from whom I had the rela⯑tion, fell into diſcourſe on the probable conſequences of the action: after a long converſation, and after revolving all that might happen, Mr. Forbes ſud⯑denly turning to a window, ſaid, All theſe things may fall out; but depend on it, all theſe diſturbances will be terminated on this ſpot.

Returned the ſame road. Saw multitudes of Gannets, Gannets. or Soland Geeſe, on their paſſage north⯑ward: they went in ſmall flocks from five to fifteen in each, and continued paſſing for hours: it was a ſtormy day; they kept low and near the ſhore; but never paſſed over the land, even when a bay with promontories intervened, but followed (preſerving an equal diſtance from ſhore) the form of the bay, and then regularly doubled the Capes. I ſaw many parties make a ſort of halt for the ſake of fiſhing; they ſoared to a great height, then darting down headlong into the ſea made the water foam and ſpring up with the violence of their deſcent; after which they purſued their route.

Swans reſort in October to the Loughs of Hem⯑prigs and Waſter, and continue there till March. Abundance of Land-rails are found throughout the county. Multitudes of Sea-fowl breed in the cliffs: among others, the Lyre; but the ſeaſon being paſt, [156] I neither ſaw it, nor could underſtand what ſpecies it was.

Sinclair bay and caſtle. Went along a fine hard ſand on the edge of Sin⯑clair bay. On the ſouth point, near Roſs-bead, on the ſame rock, are Sinclair and Carnego caſtles; but, as if the joint tenants, like beaſts of prey, had been in fear of each other, there was between them a draw-bridge; the firſt too had an iron door, which dropped from above through grooves ſtill viſible.

Produce of Cathneſs. Cathneſs may be called an immenſe moraſs, mixed with ſome fruitfull ſpots of oats and barley, much coarſe graſs, and here and there ſome fine, almoſt all natural, there being as yet very little artificial. At this time was the hay harveſt both here and about Dunrobin: the hay on this rough land is cut with very ſhort ſcythes, and with a briſk and ſtrong ſtroke. The country produces and exports great quantities of oatmeal, and much whiſky is diſtilled from the barley: the great thinneſs of inhabitants throughout Cathneſs enables them to ſend abroad much of its productions. No wheat had been raiſed this year in the county; and I was informed that this grain is ſown here in the ſpring, by reaſon of the wet and fury of the winters.

The county is ſuppoſed to ſend out,Cattle. in ſome years, 2200 head of cattle; but in bad ſeaſons, the farmer kills and ſalts numbers for ſale. Great numbers of ſwine are reared here: they are ſhort, high-backed, long-briſtled, ſharp, ſlender and long⯑noſed; have long erect ears, and moſt ſavage looks, and are ſeen tethered in almoſt every field. The reſt of the commodities of Cathneſs are butter, [157] cheeſe, tallow, hides, the oil and ſkins of ſeals, and the feathers of geeſe.

Here are neither barns or graineries; the corn is thraſhed out and preſerved in the chaff in bykes, which are ſtacks in ſhape of bee-hives, thatched quite round, where it will keep good for two years.

Much Salmon is taken at Caſtle-hill, Dunet, Wick, Salmon. and Thurſo. The miraculous draught at the laſt place is ſtill talked of; not leſs than 2500 being taken at one tide, within the memory of man. At a ſmall diſtance from Sinclair caſtle, near Staxigo creek, is a ſmall herring-fiſhery, the only one on the coaſt: Cod and other white fiſh abound here; but the want of ports on this ſtormy coaſt is an ob⯑ſtacle to the eſtabliſhment of fiſheries on this ſide the country.

In the month of November numbers of Seals ^* are taken in the vaſt caverns that open into the ſea and run ſome hundreds of yards under ground. Their entrance is narrow,Seals. their inſide lofty and ſpacious. The Seal-hunters enter theſe in ſmall boats with torches, which they light as ſoon as they land, and then with loud ſhouts alarm the animals, which they kill with clubs as they attempt to paſs. This is a hazardous employ; for ſhould the wind blow hard from ſea, theſe adventurers are inevitably loſt ^†.

Much lime-ſtone is found in this country, which when burnt is made into a compoſt with turf and tang.Servitude. The tender ſex (I bluſh for the Cathneſians) [158] are the only animals of burden: they turn their patient backs to the dunghills, and receive in their keizes, or baſkets, as much as their lords and maſ⯑ters think ſit to ſling in with their pitchforks, and then trudge to the field in droves of ſixty or ſeventy. The common people are kept here in great ſervi⯑tude, and moſt of their time is given to their Lairds, an invincible impediment to the proſperity of this county.

Of the ten pariſhes in Cathneſs, only the four that lie S. E. ſpeak Erſe; all the others ſpeak Eng⯑liſh, and that in greater purity than moſt part of North Britain.

Inoculation is much practiſed by an ingenious phyſician (Dr, Mackenzie, of Wick) in this county, and alſo the Orkneys ^*, with great ſucceſs, with⯑out any previous preparation The ſucceſs was equally great at Sanda, a poor iſle, where there was no ſort of fuel but what was got from dried cow-dung: but in all theſe places, the ſmall-pox is very fatal in the natural way. Other diſeaſes in Cathneſs are colds, coughs, and very frequently palſies.

Long days. I came here too late ^† to have any benefit from the great length of days; but from June to the middle of July, there is ſcarce any night; for even at what [159] is called midnight the ſmalleſt print may be read, ſo truely did Juvenal ſtyle theſe people.

Minima contentos nocte BRITANNOS.

On my way between Thrumſter and Dunbeth, AUG. 23. Gannett. again ſaw numbers of flocks of Gannets keeping due north, and the weather being very calm they flew high. It has not been obſerved that they ever return this way in the ſpring; but ſeem to make a circuit of the iſland, till they again arrive at the Baſs, their only breeding-place on the eaſtern coaſt.

On deſcending a ſteep hill is a romantic view of the two bridges over the waters of Berridale and Langwall, Berridale. and their wooded glens, and of the caſtle of Berridale ^*, over the ſea, where the Salmon⯑fiſhers ſtation themſelves to obſerve the approach of thoſe fiſh out of the ocean. After a tedious aſcent up the King's road of four miles gain the top of the Ord, and lie at Hemſdale. Re-viſit the ſame places, till I paſs Dingwall. AUG. 24, to 29.

Croſs the Conan in a boat, a very beautifull river, not remote from Caſtle Braan. Was in this neigh⯑borhood informed of other ſingular cuſtoms of the Highlanders.Singular cuſtoms.

On New-year's day they burn juniper before their cattle, and on the firſt Monday in every quar⯑ter ſprinkle them with urine.

In ſome parts of the country is a Bel-tein, A Bel-tein. dif⯑ferent from that before-mentioned. A croſs is cut on ſome ſticks, which is dipped in pottage, and the Thurſday before Eaſter one of each placed over [160] the ſheep-cot, the ſtable, or the cow-houſe. On the 1ſt of May they are carried to the hill where the Bel-tein is celebrated, all decked with wild flowers, and after the feaſt is over, re-placed over the ſpots they were taken from. Theſe follies are now ſel⯑dom practiſed, and that with the utmoſt ſecrecy; for the Clergy are indefatigable in diſcouraging every ſpecies of ſuperſtition.

In certain places, the death of people is ſuppoſed to be foretold by the cries and ſhrieks of Benſhi, or the Fairies wife, uttered along the very path where the funeral is to paſs; and what in Wales are called corps candles, are often imagined to appear, and foretell mortality.

Marriage cuſtoms. The courtſhip of the Highlander has theſe re⯑markable circumſtances attending it: after pri⯑vately obtaining the conſent of the Fair, he formally demands her of the father. The Lover and his friends aſſemble on a hill allotted for that purpoſe in every pariſh, and one of them is diſpatched to obtain permiſſion to wait on the daughter: if he is ſucceſsfull, he is again ſent to invite the father and his friends to aſcend the hill and partake of a whiſky caſk, which is never forgot: the Lover ad⯑vances, takes his future Father-in-law by the hand, and then plights his troth, and the Fair-one is ſur⯑rendered up to him. During the marriage cere⯑mony, great care is taken that dogs do not paſs between them, and particular attention is payed to the leaving the Bridegroom's left-ſhoe without buckle or latchet, to prevent witches^* from de⯑priving [161] priving him, on the nuptial nighty of the power of looſening the virgin zone. As a teſt, not many years ago a ſingular cuſtom prevaled in the weſtern Highlands the morning after a wedding: a baſket was faſtened with a cord round the neck of the bridegroom by the female part of the company, who immediately filled it with ſtones, till the poor man was in great danger of being ſtrangled: if his bride did not take compaſſion on him, and cut the cord with a knife given her to uſe at diſcretion. But ſuch was the tenderneſs of the Caledonian ſpouſes, that never was an inſtance of their neglecting an immediate relief of their good man.

Paſs near the abby ^* of Beaulieu, a large ruin: croſs the ferry, and again reach Inverneſs.

Make an excurſion ten miles ſouth of Inverneſs to Moy-hall, AUG. 30. Moy-hall. pleaſantly ſeated at the head of a ſmall but beautifull lake of the ſame name, full of Trout, and Char, called in the Erſe, Tartar-kinich, and in the Scotch, Red Weems. This water is about two miles and a half long, and half a mile broad, adorned with two or three iſles prettily wooded. Each ſide is bounded by hills cloathed at the bot⯑tom with trees; and in front, at the diſtance of thirty miles, is the great mountain of Karn Goran, patched with ſnow.

This place is called Staſach na gail, or the threſhold of the Highlands, being a very natural and ſtrongly marked entrance from the north. This is the ſeat of the Clan Chattan, or the M^c Intoſhes, Clan Chaltan. once a powerfull people: in the year 1715, fifteen [162] hundred toke the field; but in 1745, ſcarcc half that number: like another Abſalom, their fair miſtreſs was in that year ſuppoſed to have ſtolen their hearts from her Laird their chieftain: but the ſevereſt loyaliſt muſt admit ſome extenuation of their error, in yielding to the inſinuations of ſo charming a ſe⯑ducer.

Boethius relates, that in his time Inverneſs was greatly frequented by merchants from Germany, who purchaſed here the furs of ſeveral ſorts of wild beaſts ^*; and that wild horſes were found in great abundance in its neighborhood: that the country yielded a great deal of wheat and other corn, and quantities of nuts and apples. At preſent there is a trade in the ſkins of Deer, Roes, and other beaſts, which the Highlanders bring down to the fairs. There happened to be one at this time: the com⯑modities were ſkins, various neceſſaries brought in by the Pedlars, coarſe country cloths, cheeſe, butter and meal; the laſt in goat-ſkin bags; the butter lapped in cawls, or leaves of the broad alga or tang; and great quantities of birch wood and hazel cut into lengths for carts, &c. which had been floated down the river from Lough-Neſs.

Highland dreſs. The fair was a very agreeable circumſtance, and afforded a moſt ſingular groupe of Highlanders in all their motly dreſſes. Their brecban, or plaid, conſiſts of twelve or thirteen yards of a narrow [163] ſtuff, wrapt round the middle, and reaches to the knees: is often faſtened round the middle with a belt, and is then called brechan-ſeal; but in cold weather, is large enough to wrap round the whole body from head to feet; and this often is their only cover, not only within doors, but on the open hills during the whole night. It is frequently faſtened on the ſhoulders with a pin often of ſilver, and before with a brotche (like the fibula of the Romans), which is ſometimes of ſilver, and both large and expenſive; the old ones have very fre⯑quently mottos.

The ſtockings are ſhort, and are tied below the knee. The cuoranen is a ſort of laced ſhoe made of a ſkin with the hairy ſide out, but now ſeldom worn. The truiſh were worn by the gentry, and were breeches and ſtockings made of one piece.

The fillebeg, i. e. little plaid, alſo called kelt, is a ſort of ſhort petticoat reaching only to the knees, and is a modern ſubſtitute for the lower part of the plaid, being found to be leſs cumber⯑ſome, eſpecially in time of action, when the High⯑landers uſed to tuck their brechan into their girdle. Almoſt all have a great pouch of badger and other ſkins, with taſſels dangling before. In this they keep their tobacco and money.

Their antient arms were the Lochaber ax,Arms. now uſed by none but the town-guard of Edinburgh; a tremendous weapon, better to be expreſſed by a figure than words.

The broad-ſword and target; with the laſt they covered themſelves, with the firſt reached their enemy at a great diſtance. Theſe were their antient [164] weapons, as appears by ^* Tacitus; but ſince the difarming act, are ſcarcely to be met with; partly owing to that, partly to the ſpirit of induſtry now riſing among them, the Highlanders in a few years will ſcarce know the uſe of any weapon.

Bows and arrows were uſed in war as late as the middle of the laſt century, as I find in a manuſcript life of Sir Ewin Cameron.

The dirk was a ſort of dagger ſtuck in the belt. I frequently ſaw this weapon in the ſhambles of Inverneſs, converted into a batcher's knife, being, like Hudibras's dagger,

A ſerviceable dudgeon, Either for fighting or for drudging.

The dirk was a weapon uſed by the antient Cale⯑donians, for Dio Caſſius, in his account of the expe⯑dition of Severus, mentions it under the name of Pugio.

The Mattucaſhlaſh, or arm-pit dagger, was worn there ready to be uſed on coming to cloſe quarters. Theſe, with a piſtol ſtuck in the girdle, completely armed the Highlander ^†.

Piery croſs. It will be fit to mention here the method the Chieftains toke formerly to aſſemble the clans for any military expedition. In every clan there is a known place of rendezvous, ſtyled Carn a whin, [165] to which they muſt reſort on this ſignal. A perſon is ſent out full ſpeed with a pole burnt at one end and bloody at the other, and with a croſs at the top, which is called Croſh-tairie, the croſs of ſhame, or the fiery croſs; the firſt from the diſgrace they would undergo if they declined appearing; the ſe⯑cond from the penalty of having fire and ſword carried thro' their country, in caſe of refuſal. The firſt bearer delivers it to the next perſon he meets, he running full ſpeed to the third, and ſo on. In the late rebellion, it was ſent by ſome unknown diſaffectd hand thro' the county of Breadalbane, and paſſed through a tract of thirty-two miles in three hours, but without effect.

The women's dreſs is the kirch, or a white piece of linnen,Women's dreſs. pinned over the foreheads of thoſe that are married, and round the hind part of the head, falling behind over their necks. The ſingle women wear only a ribband round their head, which they call a ſnood. The tanac, or plaid, hangs over their ſhoulders, and is fattened before with a brotche; but in bad weather is drawn over their heads. In the county of Breadalbane, many wear, when in high dreſs, a great pleated ſtocking of an enormous length, called oſſan. In other reſpects, their dreſs reſembles that of women of the ſame rank in Eng⯑land: but their condition is very different, being little better than ſlaves to our ſex.

The manners of the native Highlanders may juſtly be expreſſed in theſe words:Character of the High⯑landers. indolent to a high degree, unleſs rouzed to war, or to any ani⯑mating amuſement; or I May ſay, from experience, to lend any diſintereſted aſſiſtance to the diſtreſſed [166] traveller, either in directing him on his way, or af⯑fording their aid in paſſing the dangerous torrents of the Highlands: hoſpitable to the higheſt degree, and full of generoſity: are much affected with the civility of ſtrangers, and have in themſelves a natu⯑ral politeneſs and addreſe, which often flows from the meaneſt when left expected. Thro' my whole tour I never met with a ſingle inſtance of national reflection! their forbearance proves them to be ſu⯑perior to the meanneſs of retaliation. I fear they pity us; but I hope not indiſcriminately. Are exceſ⯑ſively inquiſitive after your buſineſs, your name, and other particulars of little conſequence to them: moſt curious after the politicks of the world, and when they can procure an old news-paper, will liſten to it with all the avidity of Shakeſpear's black⯑ſmith. Have much pride, and conſequently are impatient of affronts, and revengefull of injuries. Are decent in their general behaviour; inclined to ſuperſtition, yet attentive to the duties of religion, and are capable of giving a moſt diſtinct account of the principles of their faith. But in many parts of the Highlands, their character begins to be more faintly marked; they mix more with the world, and become daily leſs attached to their chiefs: the clans begin to diſperſe themſelves through different parts of the country, finding that their induſtry and good conduct afford them better protection (ſince the due execution of the laws) than any their chief⯑tain can afford; and the chieftain tafting the ſweets of advanced rents, and the benefits of induſtry, damniſſes from his table the crowds of retainers, the [167] former inſtruments of his oppreſſion and freakiſh tyranny.

Moſt of the antient ſports of the Highlanders,Highland ſports. ſuch as archery, hunting, fowling and Billing, are now difuſed: thoſe retained are, throwing the putting-ſtone, or ſtone of ſtrength ^*, as they call it, which occaſions an emulation who can throw a weighty one the fartheſt. Throwing the penny-ſtone, which anſwers to our coits. The ſhinty, or the ſtriking a ball of wood or of hair: this game is played between two parties in a large plain, and furniſhed with clubs; which-ever ſide ſtrikes it firſt to their own goal wins the match.

The amuſements by their fire-ſides were, the telling of tales, the wildeſt and moſt extravagant imaginable: muſick was another: in former times, the harp was the favorite inſtrument, covered with leather and ſtrung with wire ^†, but at preſent is quite loſt. Bagpipes are ſuppoſed to have been introduced by the Danes; Bagpipes. the oldeſt are played with the mouth, the loudeſt and moſt ear-piercing of any wind muſick; the other, played with the ſingers only, are of Iriſh origin: the firſt ſuited the genius of this warlike people, rouzed their courage to battle, alarmed them when ſecure, and collected them when ſcattered. This inſtrument is become ſcarce ſince the abolition of the power of the chieftains, and the more induſtrious turn of the common people.

[168] Vocal muſick was much in vogue amongſt them, and their ſongs were chiefly in praiſe of their antient heroes. I was told that they ſtill have fragments of the ſtory of Fingal and others, which they carrol as they go along; theſe vocal traditions are the foundation of the works of Oſſian.

The north ſide of Lough-Neſs is far leſs beau⯑tifull than the ſouth. In general, the hills are leſs high, but very ſteep; in a very few places covered with bruſh-wood, but in general very naked, from the Hiding of the ſtrata down their ſloping ſides. About the middle is Caſtle Urqhuart, Caſtle Urqhuart. a fortreſs founded on a rock projecting into the lake, and was ſaid to have been the ſeat of the once powerfull Cummins. Near it is the broadeſt part of the Lough, occaſioned by a bay near the caſtle.

Above is Glen-Moriſton, and eaſt of that Straith⯑Glas, or the Chiſolm's country; in both of which [170] are foreſts of pines, where that rare bird the Cock of the Wood is ſtill to be met with. At Glen⯑Moriſton is a manufacture of linnen, where forty girls at a time are taught for three months to ſpin, and then another forty taken in: there are beſides ſix looms, and all ſupported out of the forſeited lands.

Above is the great mountain Meal Fourvounich, the firſt land ſailors make from the eaſt ſea; on the top is a lake ſaid to be 100 fathoms deep.

I was informed that in that neighborhood are glens and caſcades of ſurpriſing beauty, but my time did not permit me to viſit them.

Dined at a poor inn near the General's Hut, or the place where General Wade reſided when he in⯑ſpected the great work of the roads, and gave one rare example of making the ſoldiery uſefull in time of peace. Near is a fine glen covered at the bot⯑tom with wood, through which runs a torrent riſing ſouthward. The country alſo is prettily va⯑ried with woods and corn-fields.

Fall of Fyers. About a mile farther is the fall of Fyers, a vaſt cataract, in a darkſome glen of a ſtupendous depth; the water darts far beneath the top thro' a narrow gap between two rocks, then precipitates above forty feet lower into the bottom of the chaſm, and the foam, like a great cloud of ſmoke, riſes and fills the air. The ſides of this glen are vaſt pre⯑cipices mixed with trees over-hanging the water, through which, after a ſhort ſpace, the waters diſ⯑charge themſelves into the lake.

At the fall of Fyers the road quits the ſide of the lake, and is carried for ſome ſpace through a ſmall vale on the ſide of the river Fyers, where is a mix⯑ture of ſmall plains of corn and rocky hills. Then ſucceeds a long and dreary moor, a tedious aſcent up the mountain See-whinnin, or Cummin's Seat, whoſe ſummit is of a great height and very craggy. Deſcend a ſteep road, leave on the right Lough-Taarf, a ſmall irregular piece of water, decked with little wooded iſles, and abounding with Char. After a ſecond ſteep deſcent, reach Fort Auguſtus ^*, a ſmall fortreſs,Fort Auguſius. ſeated on a plain at the head of Lough-Neſs, between the rivers Taarf and Oich; the laſt is conſiderable, and has over it a bridge of three arches. The fort conſiſts of four baſtions; within is the Governor's houſe, and barracks for 400 men: it was taken by the Rebels in 1746, who immediately deſerted it, after demoliſhing as much as they could.

Lough-Neſs is twenty-two miles in length;Lough-Neſs. the breadth from one to two miles, except near Caſtle Urqbuart, where it ſwells out to three. The depth is very great; oppoſite the rock called the Horſe⯑ſhoe, near the weſt end, it has been found to be 140 fathoms. From an eminence near the fort is a full view of its whole extent, for it is perfectly [172] ſtrait, running from eaſt to weſt, with a point to the ſouth. The boundary from the fall of Fyers is very ſteep and rocky, which obliged General Wade to make that detour from its banks, partly on ac⯑count of the expence in cutting through ſo much ſolid rock, partly through an apprehenſion that in caſe of a rebellion the troops might be deſtroyed in their march, by the tumbling down of ſtones by the enemy from above: beſides this, a prodigious arch muſt have been ſlung over the Glen of Fyers.

This lake,Never freezes. by reaſon of its great depth, never freezes, and during cold weather a violent ſteam riſes from it as from a furnace. Ice brought from other parts, and put into Lough-Neſs, inſtantly thaws; but no water freezes ſooner than that of the lake when brought into a houſe. Its water is eſteemed very falubrious; ſo that people come or ſend thirty miles for it: old Lord Lovat in particular made conſtant uſe of it. But it is certain, whether it be owing to the water, or to the air of that neighbor⯑hood, that for ſeven years the garriſon of Fort Auguſtus had not loſt a ſingle man.

The fiſh of this lake are Salmon, which are in ſeaſon from Chriſtmas to Midſummer, Trouts of about 2lb. weight, Pikes and Eels. During win⯑ter it is frequented by Swans and other wild fowls.

The greateſt riſe of water in Lough-Neſs is four⯑teen feet. The lakes from whence it receives its ſupplies are Lough-Oich, Louch-Garrie, and Lough-Quich. There is but very little navigation on it; the only veſſel is a gally belonging to the fort, to bring the ſtores from the eaſt end, the river Neſs being too ſhallow for navigation.

[173] It is violently agitated by the winds,Its agitations in 1755 and at times the waves are quite mountainous. November 1ſt, 1755, at the ſame time as the earthquake at Liſbon, theſe waters were affected in a very extraordinary manner: they roſe and flowed up the lake from eaſt to weſt with vaſt impetuoſity, and were carried above 200 yards up the river Oich, breaking on its banks in a wave near three feet high; then continued ebbing and flowing for the ſpace of an hour: but at eleven o'clock a wave greater than any of the reſt came up the river, broke on the north ſide, and overflowed the bank for the extent of 30 feet. A boat near the General's Hut, loaden with bruſh-wood, was thrice driven aſhore, and twice carried back again; but the laſt time, the rudder was broken, the wood forced out, and the boat filled with water and left on ſhore. At the ſame time, a little iſle, in a ſmall lough in Badenoch, was totally reverſed and ſlung on the beach. But at both theſe places no agitation was felt on land.

Rode to the Caſtle of Tor-down, SEPT. 1. Caſtle of Tor⯑down a rock two miles weſt of Fort Auguſtus: on the ſummit is an antient fortreſs. The face of this rock is a precipice; on the acceſſible ſide is a ſtrong dyke of looſe ſtones; above that a ditch, and a little higher a terraſs ſup⯑ported by ſtones: on the top a ſmall oval area, hollow in the middle: round this area, for the depth of near twelve feet, are a quantity of ſtones ſtrangely cemented with almoſt vitrified matter, and in ſome places quite turned into black ſcoria: the ſtones were generally granite mixed with a few grit⯑ſtones of a kind not found nearer the place than 40 miles. Whether this was the antient ſite of ſome⯑forge, [174] forge, of whether the ſtones which form this for⯑treſs ^* had been collected from the ſtrata of ſome Vulcano, (for the veſtiges of ſuch are ſaid to have been found in the Highlands) I ſubmit to farther enquiry.

From this rock is a view of Ben-ki, a vaſt craggy, mountain above Glen-Garrie's country. Towards the ſouth is the high mountain Coryarich: the aſcent from this ſide is nine miles, but on the other into Badenoch is very rapid, and not above one, the road being, for the eaſe of the traveller, cut in a zigzag faſhion. People often periſh on the ſummit of this hill, which is frequently viſited during win⯑ter with dreadfull ſtorms of ſnow.

After a ſhort ride weſtward along the plain,SEPT. 2. reach Lough-Oich, a narrow lake; the ſides prettily in⯑dented, and the water adorned with ſmall wooded iſles.Glen-Garrie, On the ſhore is Glen-Garrie, the ſeat of Mr. M'Donald, almoſt ſurrounded with wood, and not far diſtant is the ruin of the old caſtle. This lake is about four miles long; the road on the ſouth ſide is excellent, and often carried through very pleaſant woods.

After a ſmall interval arrive on the banks of Lough-Lochy, Lough-Lochy. a fine piece of water, fourteen miles long, and from one to two broad. The diſtant mountains on the north were of an immenſe height; thoſe on the ſouth had the appearance of fine ſheep⯑walks. The road is continued on the ſide of the lake about eight miles. On the oppoſite ſhore was Acbnacarrie, once the ſeat of Cameron of Lochiel, [175] but burnt in 1746. He was eſteemed by all par⯑ties the honeſteſt and moſt ſenſible man of any that embarked in the pernicious and abſurd attempt of that and the preceding year. By his influence he prevented the Rebels from committing ſeveral ex⯑ceſſes, and even ſaved the city of Glaſgow from being plundered, when their army returned out of England, irritated with their diſappointment, and enraged at the loyalty that city had ſhewn. The Pretender came to him as ſoon as ever he landed. Lochiel ſeeing him arrive in ſo wild a manner and ſo unſupported, entreated him to deſiſt from an enterprize from which nothing but certain ruin could reſult to him and his partizans. The Ad⯑venturer grew warm, and reproached Lochiel with a breach of promiſe. This affected him ſo deeply, that he inſtantly went and took a tender and moving leave of his lady and family, foreſeeing he was on the point of parting with them for ever. The in⯑come of his eſtate was at that time, as I was told, not above 7001. per ann. yet he brought fourteen hundred men into the field.

The waters of this lake form the river Lochy, and diſcharge themſelves into the weſtern ſea, as thoſe of Lough-Oich do through Lough-Neſs into the eaſtern. About the beginning of this lake enter Lochaber; ^* ſtop at Low-bridge, a poor houſe;Lochaber. tra⯑vel over a black moor for ſome miles; ſee abun⯑dance of cattle, but ſcarce any corn. Croſs

High-bridge, a fine bridge of three arches flung over the torrent Spean, founded on rocks; two of [176] the arches are 95 feet high. This bridge was built by General Wade, in order to form a communica⯑tion with the country. Theſe publick works were at firſt very diſagreeable to the old Chieftains: it leſſened their influence greatly; for by admitting ſtrangers among them their clans were taught that the Lairds were not the firſt of men. But they had another reaſon much more ſolid: Lochaber had been a den of thieves; and as long as they had their waters, their torrents and their bogs, in a ſtate of nature, they made their excurſions, could plunder and retreat with their booty in full ſecurity. So weak were the laws in many parts of North Britain, till after the late rebellion, that no ſtop could be put to this infamous practice. A contribution, called the black meal, was raiſed by ſeveral of theſe plundering chieftains over a vaſt extent of country: whoever payed it had their cattle enſured, but thoſe. who dared to refuſe were ſure to ſuffer. Many of theſe free-booters were wont to inſert an article, by which they were to be releaſed from their agree⯑ment, in caſe of any civil commotion: thus, at the breaking out of the laſt rebellion, a M'Gregor, ^* who had with the ſtricteſt honor (till that event) preſerved his friends cattle, immediately ſent them word, that from that time they were out of his protection, and muſt now take care of themſelves. Barriſdale was another of this claſs, chief of a band of robbers, who ſpread terror over the whole coun⯑try: but the Highlanders at that time eſteemed the open theft of cattle, or the making a ſpreith (as [177] they called it) by no means diſhonorable; and the young men conſidered it as a piece of gallantry, by which they recommended themſelves to their miſtreſſes. On the other ſide there was often as much bravery in the purſuers; for frequent battles enſued, and much blood has been ſpilt on thoſe occaſions. They alſo ſhewed great dexterity in tracing the robbers, not only through the boggy land, but over the firmeſt ground, and even over places where other cattle had paſſed, knowing well how to diſtinguiſh the ſteps of thoſe that were wan⯑dering about from thoſe that were driven haſtily away by the Free-booters.

From the road had a diſtant view of the moun⯑tains of Ariſaig, beyond which were Moydart, Kin⯑loch, &c. At the end of Lough Shiel the Pretender firſt ſet up his ſtandard in the wildeſt place that imagination can frame. The inhabitants of this country are moſtly Papiſts, and here the ſtrength of the rebellion lay.

Paſs by the ſide of the river Lochy, now conſi⯑derable.Inverlochy. See Inverlochy Caſtle with four large round towers ^*, which, by the mode of building, ſeems to have been the work of the Engliſh, in the time of Edward I. who laid large fines on the Scotch Barons for the purpoſe of erecting new caſtles. Reach

Fort William, built in King William's reign, as was a ſmall town near it, called Mary⯑borough, [178] in honor of his Queen; but prior to that, had been a ſmall fortreſs, erected by order of Crom⯑wel, with whoſe people the famous Sir, Ewen Ca⯑meron ^* had numerous conteſts. The preſent fort is a triangle, has two baſtions, and is capable of admitting a garriſon of eight hundred men. It was well defended againſt the Rebels in 1746, who raiſed the ſiege with much diſgrace. The fort lies on a narrow arm of the ſea, called Loch-yell, which extends ſome miles higher up the country, making a bend to the north, and extends likewiſe weſtward towards the iſle of Mull, near twenty-four Scotch miles.

This fort on the weſt, and Fort Auguſtus, in the centre, and Fort George on the eaſt,The Chain form what is called the chain, from ſea to ſea. This ſpace is called Glen-more, or the great Glen, which. includ⯑ing water and land, is almoſt a level of ſeventy miles. There is, in fact, but little land, but what is divided by firth, lough, or river; except the two miles which lie between Lough Oich and Lough Lochy. By, means of Fort George, all entrance up the Firth towards Inverneſs is prevented, Fort Au⯑guſtus curbed the inhabitants midway, and Fort William is a check to any attempts on the weſt Detahments are made from all theſe garriſons to Inverneſs, Bernera barracks oppoſite to the Iſle of Skie, and Caſtle Duart in the Iſle of Mull ^†. Other [179] ſmall parries ate alſo ſcattered in huts throughout the country, to prevent the ſtealing of caſtle.

Fort William is ſurrounded by vaſt mountains, which occaſion almoſt perpetual rain: the loftieſt are on the ſouth ſide; Beneviſh ſoars above the reſt,Beneviſh and ends, as I was told, in a point, (at this time concealed in miſt) whoſe height from the ſea is ſaid to be 1450 yards. As an antient Briton, I lament the diſgrace of Snowdon, once eſteemed the higheſt hill in the iſland, but now muſt yield the palm to a Caledonian mountain. But I have my doubts whe⯑ther this might not be rivaled, or perhaps ſurpaſſed by others in the ſame country, for example, Ben y bourd, a central hill, from whence to the Tea there is a continued and rapid deſcent of ſeventy miles, as may be ſeen by the violent courſe of the Dee to Aberdeen. But their height has not yet been taken, which to be done fairly muſt be from the ſea. Beneviſh, as well as many others, harbor ſnow throughtout the year.

The bad weather which reigned during my ſtay in theſe parts prevented me from viſiting the cele⯑brated parallel roads in Glen-Roy. As I am unable to ſatify the curioſity of the Reader from my own obſervation, I ſhall deliver in the Appendix ^* the informations I could collect relating to theſe amazing works.

The great produce of Lochaber is cattle:Trade of Lochabers. that diſtrict alone fends out annually 3000 head; but if a portion of Inverneſsſhire is included, of which this properly is part, the number is 10,000. There are [180] alſo a few horſes bred here, and a very few ſheep but of late ſeveral have been imported. Scarce any arable land, for the exceſſive wet which reigns here almoſt totally prevents the growth of corn, and what little there is fit for tillage ſets at ten ſhillings an acre. The inhabitants of this diſtrict are therefore obliged, for their ſupport, to import ſix thouſand bolls of oatmeal annually, which coſt about 4000l. the rents are about 3000l. per ann. the return for their cattle is about 75001. the horſes may produce ſome trifle; ſo that the tenants muſt content themſelves with a very ſcanty ſubſiſtence without the proſpect of ſaying the leſt againſt un⯑foreſeen accidents. The rage of raiſing rents has reached this diſtant country: in England there may be reaſon for it, (in a certain degree) where the value of lands is encreaſed by acceſſion of com⯑merce, and by the riſe of the price of proviſions; but here (contrary to all policy) the great men be⯑gin at the wrong end, with ſqueezing the bag, before they have helped the poor tenant to fill it, by the introduction of manufactures. In many of the iſles this already ſhews its unhappy effect, and begins to depopulate the country; for numbers of families have been obliged to give up the ſtrong attachment the Scots in general have for their coun⯑try, and to exchange it for the wilds of America.

The houſes of the peaſants in Lochaber are the moſt wretched that can be imagined; framed of upright poles, which are wattled; the roof is formed of boughs like a wigwam, and the whole is covered with ſods; ſo that in this moiſt climate [181] their cottages have a perpetual and much finer ver⯑dure than the reſt of the country.

Salmons are taken in theſe parts as late as May; about 50 tuns are caught in the ſeaſon. Theſe fiſh never appear ſo early on this coaſt as on the eaſtern.

Phinocs are taken here in great numbers, 1500 having been taken at a draught. They come in Auguſt and diſappear in November. They are about a foot long, their color grey ſpotted with black their fleſh red; riſe eagerly to a fly. The fiſhermen ſuppoſe them to be the young of what they call a great Trout, weighing 30lb. which I ſuppoſe is the Grey ^*.

Left Fort William, and proceeded ſouth along the military road on the ſide of a hill,SEPT. 4. an awefull height above Loch-Leven ^† a branch of the ſea, ſo narrow as to have only the appearance of a river, bounded on both ſides with vaſt mountains, among whoſe winding bottoms the tide rolled in with ſo⯑lemn majeſty. The ſcenery begins to grow very romantic; on the weſt ſide are ſome woods of birch and pines: the hills are very lofty, many of them taper to a point, and my old friend, the late worthy Biſhop Pocock, compared the ſhape of one to mount Tabor. Beneath them is Glen-Co, Glen-Co. infamous for the maſſacre of its inhabitants in 1691, and celebrated for having (as ſome aſſert) given birth to Oſſian; towards the north is Morvan, the country of his hero Fingal.

[182] Leave on the left a vaſt cataract, precipitating itſelf in a great foaming ſheet between two lofty perpendicular rocks, with trees growing out of the fiſſures, forming a large ſtream, called the water of Boon.

Kinloch-Leven Breakfaſt at the little village of Kinloch-Leven on moſt excellent minced ſtag, the only form I thought that animal good in.

Near this village is a ſingle farm fourteen miles long, which ſets for only 351. per ann. and from the nature of the ſoil, perhaps not very cheap.

Saw here a Quern, A Quern a ſort of portable mill, made of two ſtones about two feet broad, thin at the edges, and a little thicker in the middle. In the centre of the upper ſtone is a hole to pour in the corn, and a peg by way of handle. The whole is placed on a cloth; the grinder pours the corn into the hole with one hand, and with the other turns round the upper ſtone with a very rapid motion, while the meal runs out at the ſides on the cloth. This is rather preſerved as a curioſity, being much out of uſe at preſent. Such are ſuppoſed to be the ſame with what are common among the Moors, being the ſimple ſubſtitute of a mill.

Immediately after leaving Kinloch-Leven the mountains ſoar to a far greater height than before; the ſides are covered with wood, and the bottoms of the glens filled with torrents that roar amidſt the looſe ſtones. After a ride of two miles begin to aſcend the black mountain, The black mountain. in Argyleſhire, on a ſteep road, which continues about three miles al⯑moſt to the ſummit, and is certainly the higheſt publick road in Great Britain. On the other ſide [183] the deſcent is ſcarce a mile, but is very rapid down a zigzag way. Reach the King's houſe, ſeated in a plain: it was built for the accommodation of His Majeſty's troops, in their march through this deſo⯑late country, but is in a manner unfurniſhed.

Paſs near Lough-Tutta, a long narrow piece of water, with a ſmall pine-wood on its ſide. A few weather-beaten pines and birch appear ſcattered up and down, and in all the bogs great numbers of roots, that evince the foreſt that covered the coun⯑try within this half century. Theſe were the laſt pines which I ſaw growing ſpontaneouſly in North Britain. The pine-foreſts are become very rare: I can enumerate only thoſe on the banks of Lough-Raynach, at Invercauld, and Brae-mar; at Coygach and Dirry-Monach: the firſt in Straith-navern, the laſt in Sutherland. Thoſe about Lough-Loyn, Glen-Moriſton, and Straith-Glas; a ſmall one near Lough-Garrie, another near Lough-Arkig, and a few ſcattered trees above Kinloch-Leven, all in Inverneſsſire; and I was alſo informed that there are very conſiderable woods about Caſtle Grant. I ſaw only one ſpecies of Pine in thoſe I viſited; nor could I learn whether there was any other than what is vulgarly called the Scotch Fir, whoſe ſynonyms are theſe:

Pinus ſylveſtris foliis brevibus glaucis, conis parvis albentibus. Raii hiſt. Pl. 1401. ſyn. ſtirp. Br. 442.

Pinus-ſylveſtris. Gerard's herb. 1356. Lin. ſp. Pl. 1418. Flora Angl. 361.

[184] Pin d'Ecoſſe, on de Geneve. Du Hamel Tr [...]it [...] des Arbes. II. 125. No. 5. Eyrre, Strom. Sondmor [...] 12.

Moſt of this long day's journey from the black mountain was truly melancholy, almoſt one conti⯑nued ſcene of duſky moors, without arable land, trees, houſes, or living creature, for numbers of miles.

The roads are excellent; but from Fort William to Kinloch-Leven, very injudiciouſly planned, often carried far about, and often ſo ſteep as to be ſcarce ſurmountable; whereas had the engineer followed the track uſed by the inhabitants, thoſe inconve⯑niences would have been avoided.

Theſe roads, by rendering the highlands acceſſi⯑ble, contributed much to their preſent improvement, and were owing to the induſtry of our ſoldiery; they were begun in 1723 ^*, under the directions of Gen. Wade, who, like another Hannibal, forced his way through rocks ſuppoſed to have been uncon⯑querable: many of them hang over the mighty lakes of the country, and formerly afforded no other road to the natives than the paths of ſheep or goats, where even the Highlander crawled with difficulty, and kept himſelf from tumbling into the far ſubjacent water by clinging to the plants and buſhes of the rock. Many of theſe rocks were too hard to yield to the pick-ax, and the miner was obliged to ſub⯑due their obſtinacy with gunpowder, and often in places where nature had denied him footing, and where he was forced to begin his labors, ſuſpended from above by ropes on the face of the horrible [185] precipice. The bogs and moors had likewiſe their difficulties to overcome; but all wore it length con⯑ſtrained to yield to the perſeverence of our troops.

In ſome places I obſerved, that, after the manner of the Romans, they left engraven on the rocks the names of the regiment each party belonged to, who were employed in theſe works; nor were they leſs worthy of being immortalized than the Vexillatio's of the Roman legions; for civilization was the con⯑ſequence of the labors of both.

Theſe roads begin at Dunkeld, are carried on thro' the noted paſs of Killicrankie, by Blair, to Dalna⯑cardoch, Dalwhinie, and over the Coryarich, to Fort Auguſtus. A branch extends from thence eaſtward to Inverneſs, and another weſtward, over High-bridge, to Fort William. From the laſt, by Kinloch-Leven, over the Black Mountain, by the King's houſe, to Teindrum, and from thence, by Glen-urqhie, to Inveraray, and ſo along the beautifull boundaries of Lough-Lomond, to its extremity.

Another road begins near Crief, paſſes by Aber⯑feldy, croſſes the Tay at Tay-bridge, and unites with the other road at Dalnacardoch; and from Dal⯑whinie a branch paſſes through Badenoch to Inver⯑neſs.

Theſe are the principal military roads; but there may be many others I may have over-looked.

Rode through ſome little vales by the ſide of a ſmall river; and from the appearance of fertility, have ſome relief from the dreary ſcene of the reſt of the day. Reach

Tyendrum, a ſmall village. The inn is ſeated the higheſt of any houſe in Scotland. Tyendrum. The Tay runs [186] eaſt, and a few hundred yards further is a little lake, whoſe waters run weſt. A lead mine is worked here by a level to ſome advance; was diſcovered about thirty years ago: the veins run S. W. and N. E.

SEPT. 5. Continue my tour on a very fine road on a ſide of a narrow vale, abounding with cattle; yet deſti⯑tute both of arable land and meadow, but the beaſts pick up a ſuſtenance from the graſs that ſprings up among the heath. The country opens on approaching Glen-Urqhie, Glen-Urqhie. a pretty vally, well cultivated, fertile in corn, the ſides adorned with numbers of pretty groves, and the middle watered by the river Urqhie: the church is ſeated on a knowl, in a large iſle, formed by the river: the Manſe, or miniſter's houſe, is neat, and his little demeſn is decorated in the moſt advantageous places with ſeats of turf, indicating the content and ſatisfaction of the poſſeſſor in the lot Providence has given him.

In the church-yard are ſeveral grave-ſtones of great antiquity, with figures of a warrior, each fur⯑niſhed with a ſpear, or two-handed ſword: on ſome are repreſentations of the chaſe; on others, elegant fret-work; and on one, ſaid to be part of the coffin of a M'Gregor, is a fine running pattern of follage and flowers, and excepting the figures, all in good taſte.

On an eminence on the ſouth ſide of this vale dwells M'Nabb, a ſmith, whoſe family have lived in that humble ſtation ſince the year 1440, being always of the ſame profeſſion. The firſt of the line was employed by the Lady of Sir Duncan Campbell, [187] who built the of caſtle of Kilchurn when her huſdand was on a croiſade: ſome of their tombs are in the church-yard of Glen-Urqhie; the oldeſt has a ham⯑mer and other implements of his trade cut on it. I here was favored with ſeveral tranſlations of ſome Engliſh poetry into the Erſe language, an epi⯑taph, and an elegy, to be found in the Appendix^*, by thoſe whoſe turn leads them to peruſe per⯑formances of that kind. After breakfaſt, at a good inn near the village, was there preſent at a chriſten⯑ing, and became ſponſor to a little Highlander, by no other ceremony than receiving him for a mo⯑ment into my arms.

Purſue my journey, and have a fine view of the meanders of the river before its union with Lough-Aw; in an iſle in the beginning of the lake is the caſtle of Kilchurn, Caſtle of Kilchurn. which had been inhabited by the preſent Lord Breadalbane's grandfather. The great tower was repaired by his Lordſhip, and garriſoned by him in 1745, for the ſervice of the government, in order to prevent the Rebels from making uſe of that great paſs croſs the kingdom; but is now a ruin, having lately been ſtruck by lightening.

At a place called Hamilton's Paſs, in an inſtant burſt on a view of the lake, which makes a beau⯑tifull appearance;Lough-Aw. is about a mile broad, and ſhews at leſt ten miles of its length. This water is pret⯑tily varied with iſles, ſome ſo ſmall as meerly to peep above the ſurface; yet even theſe are tufted with trees; ſome are large enough to afford hay and paſturage; and in one, called Inch-hail, are the [188] remains of a convent ^*. On Fr [...]-Elan, ^** the Heſ⯑perides of the Highlands, are the ruins of a caſtle. The fair Mego longed for the delicious fruit of the iſle, guarded by a dreadfull ſerpent: the hero Fraoch goes to gather it, and is deſtroyed by the monſter. This tale is ſung in the Erſe ballads, and is tranſlated and publiſhed in the manner of Fing [...]

The whole extent of Lough-Aw is thirty miles, bounded on the north by Lorn, a portion of Argyle⯑ſhire, a fertile country, prettily wooded near the water-ſide. On the N. E. are vaſt mountain:Mount Cronachan. among them Crouachan ^† towers to a great heights it riſes from the lake, and its ſides are ſnagged wich woods impending over it. At its foot is the diſcharge of the waters of this Lough into Lough-Elive, an arm of the ſea, after a turbulent courſe of a ſeries of cataracts for the ſpace of three miles. At Bu⯑naw, near the north end, is a large ſalmon-fiſhery; alſo a conſiderable iron-foundery, which I fear will ſoon devour the beautifull woods of the country.

Paſs by Scotſtown, Scotſtown. a ſingle houſe. Dine at the little village of Cladiſh. About two miles hence, on an eminence is ſight of the convent on Inch-Bail, is a ſpot, called Croiſch an Tſleahd, or the croſs of bowing, becauſe, in Popiſh times, it was always cuſtomary to kneel or make obeiſance on firſt ſight of any conſecrated place ^‡

[189] Paſs between hills finely planted with ſeveral ſorts of trees, ſuch as Weymouth pines, &c. and after a pictureſque ride, reach

Inveraray. Inveraray. the caſtle the principal ſeat of the Dukes of Argyle, chief of the Campbells; was built by Duke Archibald; is quadrangular with a round tower at each corner and in the middle riſes a ſquare one glazed on every ſide to give light to the ſtaircaſe and galleries, and has from without a moſt diſ⯑agreeable effect. In the attic ſtory are eighteen good bed chambers: the ground-floor was at this time in a manner unfurniſhed, but will have ſeveral good apartments. The caſtle is built of a coarſe lapis [...]ll [...]ris, brought from the other ſide of Lough-Fine, and is the ſame kind with that found in Nor⯑way of which the King of Denmark's palace at Copenhagen is built. Near the new caſtle are ſome remains of the old.

This place will in time be very magnificent; but at preſent the ſpace between the front and the water is diſgraced with the. old town, compoſed of the moſt wretched hovels that can be imagined. The founder of the caſtle deſigned to have built a new founder on the weſt ſide of the little bay the houſe ſtands on: he finiſhed a few houſes, a cuſtom-houſe, and an excellent inn: his death interrupted the completion of the plan, which, when brought to perfection, will give the place a very different appearance to what it now bears.

From the top of the great rock Duniquaich is a fine view of the caſtle the lawn ſprinkled with fine trees, the hills covered with extenſive plantations, a country fertile in corn, bordering the Lough, [190] and the Lough itſelf covered with boats. The trees on the lawn about the caſtle are ſaid to have been planted by the Earl of Argyle: they thrive greatly, for I obſerved beech from nine to twelve feet and a half in girth, pines nine, and a leſſer maple between ſeven and eight.

But the buſy ſcene of the herring-fiſhery gave no ſmall improvement to the magnificent environs of Inveraray. Every evening ^* ſome hundreds of boats in a manner covered the ſurface of Lough-Fine, an arm of the ſea, which, from its narrow⯑neſs and from the winding of its ſhores, has all the beauties of a freſh-water lake: on the week-days, the chearfull noiſe of the bagpipe and dance eechoes from on board: on the ſabbath, each boat approaches the land, and pſalmody and devotion divide the day; for the common people of the north are diſpoſed to be religious, having the example before them of a gentry untained by luxury and diſſipation, and being inſtruſted by a clergy, who are active in their duty and who pre⯑ſerve reſpect amidſ all the diſadvantages of a narrow income.

The length of Lough-Fine, Lough-Fine. from the eaſtern end to the point of Lamond, is above thirty Scotch miſes; but its breadth ſcarce two meaſured: the depth from ſixty to ſeventy fathoms:Herrings. It is noted for the vaſt ſhoals of herrings that appear here in July and continue till January. The higheſt ſeaſon is from September to Chriſtmas, when near ſix hun⯑dred [191] boats, with four men in each, are employed. A chain of nets is uſed (for ſeveral are united) of a hundred fathoms in length. As the herrings ſwim at very uncertain depths, ſo the nets are ſunk to the depth the ſhoal is found to take: the ſucceſs therefore depends much on the judgement or good fortune of the fiſhers, in taking their due depths; for it often happens that one boat will take multitudes, while the next does not catch a ſingle fiſh, which makes the boatmen perpetually enquire of each other about the depth of their nets. Theſe are kept up by buoys to a proper pitch; the ropes that run through them are faſtened with pegs, and by drawing up or letting out the rope (after taking out the pegs) they adjuſt their ſituation, and then replace them. Sometimes the fiſh ſwim in twenty fathom water, ſometimes in fifty, and oftentimes even at the bottom.

It is computed that each boat gets about 40l. in the ſeaſon. The fiſh are either ſalted, and packed in barrels for exportation, or ſold freſh to the country people, two or three hundred horſes being brought every day to the water-ſide from very diſtant parts. A barrel holds 500 herrings, if they are of the beſt kind; at a medium, 700: but if more, for ſome⯑times a barrel will hold 1000, they are reckoned very poor. The preſent price 1l. 4s. per barrel; but there is a drawback of the duty on ſalt for thoſe that are exported.

The great rendezvous of veſſels for the fiſhery off the weſtern iſles is at Cambeltown, in Cantyre, where they clear out on the 12 th of September, and ſome⯑times three hundred buſſes are ſeen there at a time: [192] they muſt return to their different ports by January 13th, where they ought to receive the praemium of 2l. 10s. per tun of herrings; but it is ſaid to be very ill paid, which is a great diſcouragement to the fiſhery.

The herrings of Lough-Fine are as uncertain in their migration as they are on the coaſt of Wales. They had for numbers of years quitted that water; but appeared again there within theſe dozen years. Such is the caſe with the loughs on all this weſtern coaſt, not but people deſpair too ſoon of finding them, from one or two unſucceſsfull tryals in the beginning of the ſeaſon; perhaps from not adjuſting their nets to the depth the fiſh happen then to ſwim in: but if each year a ſmall veſſel of two was ſent to make a thorough tryal in every branch of the ſea on this coaſt, they would undoubtedly find ſhoals of fiſh in one or other.

Tunnies. Tunnies, ^* called here Mackrel-Sture, are very frequently caught in the herring ſeaſon, which they follow to prey on. They are taken with a ſtrong iron hook faſtened to a rope and baited with a her⯑ring: as ſoon as hooked loſe all ſpirit, and are drawn up without any reſiſtance: are very active when at liberty, and jump and frolick oft the ſur⯑face of the water.

SEPT. 7. Croſſed over an elegant bridge of three arches upon the Aray, in front of the caſtle, and kept riding along the ſide of the Lough for about ſeven miles: ſaw in one place a ſhoal of herrings, cloſe to the ſurface, perfectly piled on one another, with a flock of Gulls, buſied with this offered booty.

[193] After quitting the water-ſide the road is carried for a conſiderable way through the bottoms of naked, deep and gloomy glens. Aſcend a very high paſs with a little lough on the top. Reach the end of Lough-Long, another narrow arm of the ſea, bounded by high-hills, and after a long courſe terminates in the Firth of Clyde.

Near this place ſee a houſe, very pleaſantly ſitu⯑ated, belonging to Colonel Campbell, amidſt plan⯑tations, with ſome very fertile bottoms adjacent. On aſcending a hill not half a mile farther, appears LOUGH-LOMOND. North-Britain may well boaſt of its waters;Review of the Lakes. for ſo ſhort a ride as thirty miles preſents the traveller with the view of four moſt magnificent pieces. Lough-Aw, Lough-Fine, Lough-Long, and Lough-Lomond. Two indeed are of ſalt-water; but, by their narrowneſs, give the idea of freſh-water lakes. It is an idle obſervation of tra⯑vellers, that ſeeing one is the ſame with ſeeing all of theſe ſuperb waters; for almoſt every one I viſited has its proper characters.

Lough-Leven is a broad expanſe, with iſles and cultivated ſhores.

Lough-Tay makes three bold windings, has ſteep but ſloping ſhores, cultivated in many parts, and bounded by vaſt hills.

Lough-Raynach, is broad and ſtrait, has more wildneſs about it, with a large natural pine wood on its ſouthern banks.

Lough Tumel is narrow, confined by the ſloping ſides of ſteep hills, and has on its weſtern limits a flat, rich woody country, and is watered by a moſt ſerpentine ſtream.

[194] The Lough of Spinie is almoſt on a flat, and its ſides much indented.

Lough-Moy is ſmall, and has ſoft features on its banks, amidſt rude environs.

Lough-Neſs is ſtrait and narrow; its ſhores abound with a wild magnificence, lofty, precipi⯑tous and wooded, and has all the greatneſs of an Alpine lake.

Lough-Oich has lofty mountains at a ſmall diſ⯑tance from its borders; the ſhores indented, and the water decorated with iſles.

Lough-Lochy wants the iſles; its ſhores ſlope, and ſeveral ſtraiths terminate on its banks.

Lough-Aw is long and waving: its little iſles tuſted with trees, and juſt appearing above the water, its two great ſeeds of water at each ex⯑tremity, and its ſingular lateral diſcharge near one of them, ſufficiently mark this great lake.

Lough-Lomond, Lough-Lomond. the laſt, the moſt beautifull of the Caledonian lakes. The firſt view of it from Tarbat preſents an extenſive ſerpentine winding amidſt lofty hills: on the north, barren, black and rocky, which darken with their ſhade that contracted part of the water. Near this gloomy tract, beneath Craig Roſ⯑ton, M^c Gregors. was the principal ſeat of the M^c Gregors, a murderous clan, infamous for exceſſes of all kinds; it length, for a horrible maſſacre of the Colquhuns, or Cabouns, in 1602, were proſcribed, and hunted down like wild beaſts; their very name ſuppreſſed by act of council; ſo that the remnant, now diſ⯑perſed like Jews, dare not even ſign it to any deed. Their poſterity are ſtill ſaid to be diſtinguiſhed among the clans in which they have incorporated [195] themſelves, not only by the redneſs of their hair; but by their ſtill retaining the miſchievous diſpoſi⯑tion of their anceſtors.

On the weſt ſide, the mountains are cloathed hear the bottoms with woods of oak quite to the water edge; their ſummits lofty, naked and craggy.

On the eaſt ſide, the mountains are equally high; but the tops form a more even ridge parallel to the lake, except where Ben-Lomond ^*, like Saul amidſt his companions, overtops the reſt. The upper parts were black and barren; the lower had great marks of fertility, or at left of induſtry, for the yellow corn was finely contraſted with the ver⯑dure of the groves intermixed with it.

This eaſtern boundary is part of the Grampian hills,Grampian hills. which extend from hence through the coun⯑ties of Perth, Angus, Mearns, and Aberdeen. They take their name from only a ſingle hill, the Mons Grampius of Tacitus, where Galgacus waited the approach of Agricola, and where the battle was fought ſo fatal to the brave Caledonians. Anti⯑quarians have not agreed upon the particular ſpot; but the able Mr. Gordon ^† places it near Comerie, at the upper end of Straithern, at a place to this day called Galgachan Moor. But to return.

The road runs ſometimes through woods, at others is expoſed and naked; in ſome, ſo ſteep as to require the ſupport of a wall: the whole the work of the ſoldiery: bleſſed exchange of inſtruments of deſtruction for thoſe that give ſafety to the traveller, and a poliſh to the once inacceſſible native.

[196] A great headland covered with trees ſeparates the firſt ſcene from one totally different. On paſs⯑ing this cape an expanſe of water burſts at once on your eye, varied with all the ſofter beauties of na⯑ture. Immediately beneath is a flat covered with wood and corn: beyond, the headlands ſtretch far into the water, and conſiſt of gentle riſings; many have their ſurfaces covered with wood, others adorned with trees looſely ſcattered either over a fine verdure, or the purple bloom of the heath. Numbers of iſlands are diſperſed over the lake of the ſame elevated form as the little capes, and wooded in the ſame manner; others juſt peep above the ſurface, and are tuſted with trees; and num⯑bers are ſo diſpoſed as to form magnificent viſtos between.

Oppoſite Luſs, at a ſmall diſtance from ſhore, is a mountainous iſle almoſt covered with wood; is near half a mile long, and has a moſt fine effect. I could not count the number of iſlands, but was told there are twenty-eight: the largeſt two miles long, and ſtocked with Deer.

The length of this charming lake is 24 Scotch miles; its greateſt breadth eight: its greateſt depth a hundred and twenty fathoms. Beſides the fiſh common to the Loughs are Guiniads, called here Poans.

The country from Luſs ^* to the ſouthern ex⯑tremity of the lake continually improves; the mountains ſink gradually into ſmall hills; the land is highly cultivated, well planted, and well inha⯑bited.

[197] I was ſtruck with rapture at a ſight ſo long new to me: it would have been without alloy, had it not been daſhed with the uncertainty whether the mountain virtue, hoſpitality, would flouriſh with equal vigor in the ſofter ſcenes I was on the point of entering on; for in the Highlands every houſe gave welcome to the traveller.

The vale between the end of the lake and Dun⯑barton is unſpeakably beautifull, very fertile, and finely watered by the great and rapid river Levin, the diſcharge of the lake, which, after a ſhort courſe, drops into the Firth of Clyde below Dunbarton: there is ſcarcely a ſpot on its banks but what is cultivated with bleacheries, plantations and villas. Nothing can equal the contraſt in this day's journey, between the black barren dreary glens of the morn⯑ing ride, and the ſoft ſcenes of the evening, iſlands worthy of the retreat of Armida, and which Rinaldo himſelf would have quitted with a ſigh.

Before I take my laſt leave of the Highlands, Entrances into the Highlands. it would be proper to obſerve that every entrance into them is ſtrongly marked by nature.

On the ſouth, the narrow and wooded glen near Dunkeld inſtantly ſhews the change of country.

On the eaſt, the craggy paſs of Bollitir gives a contracted admiſſion into the Grampian hills.

On the north, the mountains near Lough-Moy appear very near, and form what is properly ſtyled the threſhold of the country; and on the Weſt, the narrow road impending over Lough-Lomond forms a moſt characteriſtic entrance to this mountainous tract.

[198] But the Erſe language is not confined within theſe limits; for it is ſpoken on all ſides beyond theſe mountains. On the eaſtern coaſt it begins at Nairn; on the weſtern, extends over all the iſles. It ceaſes in the north of Cathneſs, the Orkneys, and the Shetland iſlands^*; but near Lough-Lomond, is heard at Luſs, at Buchanan, eaſt of the lake, and at Roſeneth, weſt of it.

Croſs the ferry over the Levin at Bounel, and after a ride of three miles reach

Dunbarton, Dunbarton. a ſmall but good old town, ſeated on a plain near the conflux of the Levin with the Firth of Clyde; it conſiſts principally of one large ſtreet in form of a creſcent. On one ſide is the Tolbooth, and at the ſouth end the church with a ſmall ſpire ſteeple. The waites of the town are bagpipes, which go about at nine o'clock at night and five in the morning.

Its ca [...]tle. The caſtle is ſeated a little ſouth of the town on a two-headed rock of a ſtupendous height, riſing in a ſtrange manner out of the ſands, and totally detached from every thing elſe. On one of the ſummits are the remains of an old light-houſe; on the other, the powder magazine: in the hollow between is a large well of excellent water fourteen feet deep. The ſides of the rocks are immenſe precipices, and often over-hang, except on the ſide where the governor's houſe ſtands, which is defended by walls and a few cannon, and garriſoned by a, few invalids. From its natural ſtrength, it was in former times deemed impregnable; ſo that the [199] deſperate but ſucceſsfull ſcalado of it 1571 ^* may vie with the greateſt attempts of that kind, with the capture of the Numidian fortreſs, in the Jugur⯑thine war, by Marius; or the more horrible ſurprize of Feſcamp ^†, by the gallant Bois-rosè.

From the ſummits of this rock is a fine view of the country, of the town of Dunbarton, the river Levin, the Firth of Clyde, (the Glota of Tacitus) here about a mile broad, and of the towns of Greenock and Port Glaſgow, on the oppoſite ſhore. The bu⯑ſineſs of this country is the ſpinning of thread, which is very conſiderable. There is alſo a great ſalmon-fiſhery:Fiſh. but in this populous country, ſo great is the demand for them that none can be ſpared for curing. Gilſes come up the river in June, and continue in plenty about twenty days; and many Salmon Trout are taken from March to July. Phinocs, called here Yellow Fins, come in July, and continue about the ſame ſpace of time as the Gilſes: the fiſhermen call them the young of ſome great Sea Trout. During May, Parrs appear in ſuch numbers in the Levin, that the water ſeems quite animated with them. There are beſides in that river Perch and a few Poans ^‡.

Paſs by the ruins of Dunglas caſtle,SEPT. 8. near the banks of the Clyde, which meanders finely along a rich plain full of barley and oats, and much in⯑cloſed with good hedges, a rarity in North Britain.

[200] At a diſtance are ſome gentle riſings, interſperſed with woods and villas belonging to the citizens of Glaſgow,

GLASGOW. The beſt built of any modern ſecond-rate city I ever ſaw: the houſes of ſtone, and in a good taſte. The principal ſtreet runs eaſt and weſt, and is near a mile and a half long; but unfortunately, is not ſtrait. The Tolbooth is large and handſome. Next to that is the Exchange: within is a ſpacious room with full-length portraits of all our monarchs ſince James I. and an excellent one, by Ramſay, of Archibald Duke of Argyle, in a Judge's robe. Before the Exchange is a large equeſtrian ſtatue of King William. This is the broadeſt and fineſt part of the ſtreet: many of the houſes are built over piazzas, but too narrow to be of much ſervice to walkers. Numbers of other ſtreets croſs this at right angles, and are in general well built.

Market places. The market-places are great ornaments to this city, the fronts being done in a very fine taſte, and the gates adorned with columns of one or other of the orders. Some of theſe markets are for meal, greens, fiſh, or fleſh. There are two for the laſt, which have conduits out of ſeveral of the pillars; ſo that they are conſtantly kept ſweet and clean.

Near the meal-market is a publick grainary, to be filled on any apprehenſion of ſcarceneſs.

The guard-houſe is in the great ſtreet, which is kept by the inhabitants, who regularly do duty. An excellent police is obſerved here, and proper officers attend the markets to prevent any abuſes.

The old bridge over the Clyde conſiſts of eight arches, and was built 400 years ago by Biſhop [201] Rea; two others are now building. The tide flows three miles higher up the country, but at low water is fordable. There is a plan for deepening the channel; for at preſent the tide brings up only very ſmall veſſels; and the ports belonging to this city lie fourteen miles lower, at Port Glaſgow and Greenock, on the weſt ſide of the Firth.

Near the bridge is a large alms-houſe, a vaſt nailery, a ſtone-ware manufacture, and a great porter brewery, which ſupplies ſome part of unin⯑duſtrious Ireland. Within fight, on the ſouth ſide, are collieries; and much coal is exported into the laſt-mentioned iſland, and into America.

The great imports of this city are tobacco and ſugar: of the former,Trade. above 40,000 hogſheads have been annually imported, and near 20,000 again exported into France. The manufactures here are linnens, cambricks ^*, lawns, tapes, ſuſtians, and ſtriped linnens; ſo that it already begins to rival Mancheſter, and has in point of the conveniency of its ports, in reſpect to America, a great advantage over it.

The college is a large building, with a handſome front to the ſtreet,College. reſembling ſome of the old col⯑leges in Oxford. Charles I. ſubſcribed 2001. to⯑wards this work, but was prevented by the troubles from paying it; but Cromwell afterwards fulfilled the deſign of the royal donor. It was founded in 1450, by James II. Pope Nicholas I. gave the bull, but Biſhop Turnbull ſupplied the money. There are about 400 ſtudents belonging to the col⯑lege, [202] who lodge in the town: but the Profeſſors have good houſes in the college. Young gentlemen of fortune have private tutors, who have an eye to their conduct; the reſt live entirely at their own diſcretion.

The library is a very handſome room, with a gal⯑lery round it, ſupported by pillars. That benefi⯑cent nobleman the late Duke of Chandos, when he viſited the college, gave 500l. towards building this apartment.

Meſſrs. Robert and Andrew Faulis, printers and bookſellers to the univerſity, have inſtituted an academy for painting and engraving; and like good citizens, zealous to promote the welfare and honor of their native place, have at vaſt expence formed a moſt numerous collection of paintings from abroad, in order to form the taſte of their cleves.

The printing is a very conſiderable branch of buſineſs, and has long been celebrated for the beauty of the types and the correctneſs of the edi⯑tions. Here are preſerved in caſes numbers of monumental and other ſtones^*, taken out of the walls on the Roman ſtations in this part of the kingdom: ſome are well cut and ornamented: moſt of them were done to perpetuate the memory of the vexillatio, or party, who performed ſuch or ſuch works; others in memory of officers who died in the country.

The cathedral is a large pile,Churches. now divided into two churches: beneath, and deep under ground, [203] is another, in which is alſo divine ſervice, where the congregation may truely ſay, clamavi e pro⯑fundis: the roof is fine, made of ſtone, and ſup⯑ported by pillars; but the beauty much hurt by the crowding of the pews. Near this is the ruin of the caſtle, or Biſhop's palace.

The new church is a very handſome building, with a large elegant porch; but the outſide is much disſigured by a ſlender ſquare tower with a pepper-box top: and in general, the ſteeples of Glaſgow are in a remarkable bad taſte, being, in fact, no favorite part of architecture with the church of Scotland. The inſide of that juſt ſpoken of is moſt neatly finiſhed, ſupported by pillars, and very prettily ſtuccoed: it is one of the very few excep⯑tions to the ſlovenly and indecent manner in which Preſbitery keeps the houſes of GOD: reformation in matters of religion ſeldom obſerves mediocrity: here it was outrageous; for a place of worſhip commonly neat was deemed to ſavor of popery; but, to avoid the imputation of that extreme, they run into another; for in many parts of Scotland our LORD ſeems ſtill to be worſhipped in a ſtable, and often in a very wretched one. Many of the churches are thatched with heath, and in ſome places are in ſuch bad repair as to be half open at top; ſo that the people appear to worſhip, as the Druids did of old, in open temples.

Went to ſee Hamilton Houſe, twelve miles from Glaſgow: SEPT 10. rode through a rich and beautifull corn country, adorned with ſmall woods, gentlemen's ſeats, and well watered. Hereabout I ſaw the firſt muddy ſtream ſince I had left Edinburgh; for the [204] Highland rivers running generally through a bed of rock, or pure gravel, receive no other teint, in the greateſt floods, than the brown cryſtalline tinge of the moors, out of which they riſe.

See on the weſt,Bothwell Bridge. at a little diſtance from the road, the ruins of Bothwell caſtle, and the bridge, remarkable for the Duke of Monmouth's victory over the Rebels in 1679. The church was colle⯑giate, founded by Archibald Earl of Douglas, 1398, and is, as I heard, ^* oddly incruſted with a thin coat of ſtone.

Hamilton Houſe,Hamilton. or Palace, as it is called here, is ſeated at the end of a ſmall town; is a large diſagreeable pile of building, with two deep wings at right angles with the centre. The gallery is of great extent, and furniſhed (as well as ſome other rooms) with moſt excellent paintings: that of Da⯑niel in the Lion's den, by Rubens, is a great per⯑formance: the fear and devotion of the prophet is finely expreſſed by his uplifted face and eyes, his claſped hands, his ſwelling muſcles, and the violent extenſion of one foot: a Lion looks fiercely at him with open mouth, and ſeems only reſtrained by the almighty power from making him fall a victim to his hunger; and the ſignal deliverance of Daniel is more fully marked by the number of human bones ſcattered over the floor, as if to ſhew the inſtant fate of others, in whoſe favor the Deity did not interfere.

The marriage-feaſt, by Paul Veroneſe, is a fine piece, and the obſtinacy and reſiſtance of the in⯑truder, [205] who came without the wedding garment, is ſtrongly expreſſed.

The treaty of peace between England and Spain, in the reign of James I. by Juan de Pantoxa, is a good hiſtorical picture. There are ſix Envoys on the part of the Spaniards, and five on that of the Engliſh, with their names inſcribed over each: the Engliſh are the Earls of Dorſet, Nottingham, Devon⯑ſhire, Northampton, and Robert Cecil.

Earls of Lauderdale and Lanerk ſettling the co⯑venant, both in black, with faces full of puritanical ſolemnity.

Several of the Dukes of Hamilton. James Duke of Hamilton, with a blue ribband and white rod. His ſon, beheaded in 1649. His brother, killed at the battle of Worceſter. The Duke who fell in the duel with Lord Mohun.

Fielding, Earl of Denbigh ^*; his hair grey, a gun in his hand, and attended by an Indian boy. The fineſt I ever ſaw of Vandyk's portraits: it ſeems per⯑fectly to ſtart from the canvaſs, and the action of his countenance looking up has matchleſs ſpirit. His daughter, and her huſband the Marquiſs of Hamilton.

Old Duke of Chatelherault, in black, with an order about his neck.

Two half-lengths in black; one with a fiddle in his hand, the other in a groteſque attitude; both with the ſame countenances; good, but ſwarthy; [206] miſtakenly called David Rizzo's; but I could not learn that there was any portraits of that unfor⯑tunate man.

Maria Dei Gratia Scotorum Regina, 1586. AEt. 43. a half-length; a ſtiff figure, in a great ruff, au⯑burne hair, oval but pretty full face, of much larger and plainer features than that at Caſtle Braan, a natural alteration from the increaſe of her cruel uſage, and of her ill health; yet ſtill with a reſem⯑blance to that portrait. It was told me here, that ſhe ſent this picture, together with a ring, to the Duke of Hamilton, a little before her execution.

A head, ſaid to be Anna Bullen, very handſome, dreſſed in a ruff and kerchief edged with ermine, and in a purple gown; over her face a veil, ſo tranſparent as not to conceal

The bloom of young deſire and purple light of love.

Earl Morton, Regent of Scotland.

The rough reformer John Knox.

Lord Belhaven, author of the famous ſpeech againſt the union.

Philip II. at full length, with a ſtrange figure of Fame bowing at his feet with a label and this motto, Pro merente adſto.

About a mile from the houſe,Chatelberault. on an eminenco above a deep wooded glen, with the Avon at its bottom, is Chatelberault; ſo called from the eſtate the family once poſſeſſed in France: is an elegant banqueting houſe, with a dog-kennel, gardens, &c. and commands a fine view of the country. The park is now much incloſed:Wild cattle. but I am told that there are ſtill in it a few of the breed of the wild [207] cattle, which Boethius ^* ſays were peculiar to the Caledonian foreſt, were of a ſnowy whiteneſs, and had manes like lions: they were at this time in a diſtant part of the park, and I loſt the ſight of them.

I regret alſo the not being able to viſit the falls of the Clyde near Lanerk, which I was informed were very romantic, conſiſting of a ſeries of cata⯑racts of different heights from ten to fifteen feet, ſome falling in ſheets of water, others broken, and their ſides bounded by magnificent rocks covered with trees.

Returned to Glaſgow.

Croſſed the country towards Sterling. Paſſed through the village of Kylſithe, SEPT. 11. Kylſithe. noted for a victory gained by Montroſe over the Covenanters. Thro' a bog, where numbers of the fugitives periſhed, is now cutting part of the canal that is to join the Firths of Forth and Clyde. Saw the ſpot where the battle of Bannockbourne was ſought, in which the Engliſh under Edward II. had a ſhamefull defeat. Edward was ſo aſſured of conqueſt that he brought with him William Baſton a Carmelite, and famous poet, to celebrate his victory; but the monarch was defeated, and the poor bard taken and forced by the conqueror, invitâ minerva, to ſing his ſucceſs, which he did in ſuch lines as theſe:

St. Ninian. Went through the ſmall town of St. Ninian ^*, a mile ſouth of Sterling. The church had been the powder-magazine of the Rebels, who, on their re⯑treat, blew it up in ſuch haſte, as to deſtroy ſome of their own people and about fifteen innocent ſpectators.

From the top of the caſtle is by far the fineſt view in Scotland. To the eaſt is a vaſt plain rich in corn, adorned with woods, and watered with the river Forth, whoſe meanders are, before it reaches the ſea, ſo frequent and ſo large, as to form a multi⯑tude of moſt beautifull peninſulas; for in many parts the windings approximate ſo cloſe as to leave only a little iſthmus of a few yards. In this plain is an old abby, a view of Alloa, Clack⯑manna, Falkirk, the Firth of Forth, and the coun⯑try as far as Edinburgh. On the north, the Ochil hills, and the moor where the battle of Dumblain was fought. To the weſt, the ſtraith of Menteith, as fertile as the eaſtern plain, and terminated by the Highland mountains, among which the ſummit of Ben-Lomond is very conſpicuous.

The Sylva Caledonia, or Caledonian Foreſt, begun a little north of Sterling, and paſſing through Men⯑teith and Straithern, extended, according to Boe⯑thius, as far as Athol on one ſide, and Locbaber on the other. It is very ſlightly mentioned by the an⯑tients ^*; but the ſuppoſed extent is given by the Scottiſh hiſtorian.

Lie at Falkirk, a large ill-built town,Falkirk. ſupported by the great fairs for black cattle from the High⯑lands, it being computed that 24,000 head are annually ſold here. There is alſo a great deal of [210] money got here by the carriage of goods, landed at Carron wharf, to Glaſgow. Such is the increaſe of trade in this country, that about twenty years ago not three carts could be found in the town, and at preſent there are above a hundred that are ſup⯑ported by their intercourſe with Glaſgow.

In the church-yard, on a plain ſtone, is the fol⯑lowing epitaph on John de Graham, ſtyled the right hand of the gallant Wallace, killed at the battle of Falkirk in 1298 ^*:

Mente manuque potens, et VALLAE fidus Achates Conditur hic Gramus bello interſectus ab Anglis. 22. Julii. 1298.

Near this is another epitaph, occaſioned by a ſecond battle of Falkirk, as diſgracefull to the Eng⯑liſh as the other was fatal to the Scots: the firſt was a well diſputed combat; the laſt, a pannic on both ſides, for part of each army flew, the one weſt, the other eaſt, each carrying the news of their ſeveral defeats, while the total deſtruction of our forces was prevented by the gallant behaviour of a briga⯑dier, who with two regiments faced ſuch of the rebels as kept the field, and prevented any further advantages. The epitaph I allude to is in memory [211] of Sir Robert Monro ^*, the worthy chieftain of that loyal clan, a family which loſt three brothers the ſame year in ſupport of the royal cauſe. Sir Robert being greatly wounded in the battle was murthered in cool blood, by the Rebels, with his brother Dr. Monro, who with fraternal piety was at that time dreſſing his wounds: the third was aſſaſſinated by miſtake for one who well deſerved his death for ſpontaneous barbarities on Highlanders approach⯑ing according to proclamation to ſurrender their arms.

I have very often mentioned fields of battles in this part of the kingdom; ſcarce a ſpot has eſcaped unſtained with gore; for had they no publick enemy to contend with, the Scots, like the Welſh of old, turned their arms againſt each other.

[212] Iron ſoun⯑deries. Carron iron-works lie about a mile from Falkirk, and are the greateſt of the kind in Europe: they were founded about eight years ago, before which there was not a ſingle houſe, and the country a meer moor. At preſent, the buildings of all ſorts are of vaſt extent, and above twelve hundred men are employed. The iron is ſmelted from the ſtone, then caſt into cannon, pots, and all ſorts of utenſils made in ſounderies. This work has been of great ſervice to the country, by teaching the people in⯑duſtry and a method of ſetting about any ſort of labor, which before the common people had ſcarce any notion of.

Carron wharf lies on the Forth, and is not only uſefull to the works, but of great ſervice even to Glaſgow, as conſiderable quantities of goods deſtined for that city are landed there. The canal likewiſe begins in this neighborhood, which, when effected, will prove another benefit to theſe works.

At a ſmall diſtance from the ſounderies, on a little riſing above the river Carron, Arthur's Oven. ſtood that cele⯑brated antiquity called Arthur's Oven, which the ingenious Mr. Gordon ^* ſuppoſes to have been a ſacellum, or little chapel, a repoſitory for the Roman Inſignia, or ſtandards: but, to the mortification of every curious traveller, this matchleſs edifice is now no more; its barbarous owner, a gothic knight, cauſed it to be demoliſhed, in order to make a mill-dam with the materials, within leſs than a year, the Naiades, in reſentment of the ſacrilege, came down in a flood and entirely ſwept it away.

[213] Saw near Callendar-Houſe ſome part of Anto⯑minus's Wall,Sept. 12. Graham's Dyke or, as it is called here, Graham's Dyke ^*. The vallum and the ditch are here very evident, and both are of a great ſize, the laſt being forty feet broad and thirteen deep; it extended from the Firth of Forth to that of Clyde, and was defended at proper diſtances by forts and watch⯑towers, the work of the Roman legions under the command of Lollius Urbicus, in the reign of Anto⯑ninus Pius. According to Mr. Gordon, it began at old Kirk Patrtik on the Firth of Clyde, and ended two miles weſt of Abercorn, on the Firth of Forth, being in length 36 miles, 887 paces.

Paſſed thro' Burrowſtoneſs, a town on the Firth, inveloped in ſmoke from the great ſalt-pans and vaſt collieries near it. The town-houſe is built in form of a caſtle. There is a good quay, much frequented by ſhipping; for conſiderable quantities of coal are ſent from hence to London; and there are beſides ſome Greenland ſhips ^† belonging to the town.

The whole country from Falkirk for ſome diſtance from the Firth is very low, and in many places protected from the ſea by banks. I ob⯑ſerved in certain places far from the water, vaſt [214] beds of oiſter-ſhells; a mark of it having once been poſſeſt by that element.

Reach Hopeton-Houſe,Hopeton ⯑Houſe the ſeat of the Earl of Hopeton; a houſe began by Sir William Bruce, and finiſhed by Mr. Adams: is the handſomeſt I ſaw in North Britain: the front is enriched with pilaſters; the wings at ſome diſtance joined to it by a beau⯑tifull colonade: one wing is the ſtables, the other the library.

The great improvements round the houſe are very extenſive; but the gardens are ſtill in the old taſte: trees and ſhrubs ſucceed here greatly; among others were two Portugal laurels thirty feet high. Nothing can equal the grandeur of the approach to the houſe, or the proſpect from it. The ſituation is bold, on an eminence, commanding a view of the Firth of Forth, bounded on the north by the county of Fife; the middle is chequered with iſlands, ſuch as Garvey, Inch Keith ^*, and others; and to the ſouth-eaſt is a vaſt command of Eaſt⯑Lothian, and the terminating object the great conic hill of North Berwick.

The whole ride from Sterling to Queen's-Ferry (near Hopeton-Houſe) is not to be paralleled for the elegance and variety of its proſpects: the whole is a compoſition of all that is great and beautifull: [215] towns, villages, ſeats, and antient towers, deco⯑rate each bank of that fine expanſe of water the Firth; while the buſy ſcenes of commerce and rural ceconomy are no ſmall addition to the ſtill life. The lofty mountains of the Highlands form a diſtant but auguſt boundary towards the north⯑weſt; and the eaſtern view is enlivened with ſhips perpetually appearing or vaniſhing amidſt the nu⯑merous iſles.

Paſs by Queen's-Ferty; fall into the Edinburgh road, and finiſh, this evening, in that capital, a moſt agreeable and proſperous Tour. It was im⯑poſſible not to recall the idea of what I had ſeen; to imagine the former condition of this part of the kingdom, and to compare it with the preſent ſtate, and by a ſort of ſecond-ſight make a probable con⯑jecture of the happy appearance it will aſſume in a very few years. Nor could I forbear repeating the prophetic lines ^* of Aaron Hill, who ſeemed ſeized with a like rêverie:

After a few days experience of the ſame hoſpi⯑tality in Edinburgh that I had met with in the High⯑lands,SEPT. 18. [216] kinds, I continued my journey ſouth, through a rich corn country, leaving the Pentland hills to the weſt, whoſe ſides were covered with a fine turf. Before I reached Crook, a ſmall village, the country grew worſe: after this it aſſumed a Highland appearance, the hills were high, the vales narrow, and there was beſides a great ſcarcity of trees, and hardly any corn; inſtead, was abundance of good paſturage for ſheep, there being great numbers in theſe parts, which ſupply the north of England. The roads are bad, narrow, and often on the edges of precipices, im⯑pending over the river Tweed, here an inconſiderable ſtream. Reach

MOFFAT,MOFFAT. a ſmall neat town, famous for its ſpaws; one ſaid to be uſefull in ſcrophulous caſes, the other a chalybeate, which makes this place much reſorted to in ſummer. Doctor Walker, mi⯑niſter of the place, ſhewed me in manuſcript his natural hiſtory of the weſtern iſles, which will do him much credit whenever he ſavors the world with it.

The country between Moſſat and Lockerby is very good,SEPT. 19. a mixture of downs and corn-land, with a few ſmall woods: the country grows quite flat and very unpleaſant. Croſs a ſmall river called the Sark, which divides the two kingdoms, and enter CUMBERLAND.

About three miles farther croſs the Eſk over a handſome ſtone-bridge, and lie at the ſmall village of Longtown. The country is very rich in corn, but quite bare of trees, and very flat. Near this village, at Netberby, are the ruins of a Roman ſta⯑tion, [217] where ſtatues, weapons and coins are often dug up.

Croſs the Eden to Carliſle, a pleaſant city, ſur⯑rounded with walls,SEPT. 20. Carliſle. like Cheſter, but they are very dirty, and kept in very bad repair. The caſtle is an⯑tient, but makes a good appearance at a diſtance: the view from it is fine, of rich meadows, at this time covered with thouſands of cattle, it being fair-day. The Eden here forms two branches, and inſulates the ground; over one is a bridge of four, over the other one of nine arches. There is beſides a proſ⯑pect of a rich country, and a diſtant view of Cold⯑fells, Croſs-fells, Skiddaw, and other mountains.

The cathedral ^* is very imperfect, Cromwell hav⯑ing pulled down part to build barracks with the materials. There remains ſome portion that was built in the Saxon times, with very maffy pillars and round arches. The reſt is more modern, ſaid to have been built in the reign of Edward III. who had in one part an apartment to lodge in. The arches in this latter building are ſharp-pointed: the eaſt window remarkably fine.

The manufactures of Carliſle are chiefly of printed linnens, for which near 3000l;. per ann. is paid in duties. It is alſo noted for a great manu⯑facture of whips, which employs numbers of chil⯑dren.

Salmons appear in the Eden in numbers ſo early as the months of December and January; and the London, and even Newcaſtle markets, are ſupplied with early fiſh from this river: but it is remarkable, [218] that they do not viſit the Eſk in any quantity till April, notwithſtanding the mouths of both theſe waters arc at a ſmall diſtance from each other. I omitted in its proper place an account of the New⯑caſtle fiſhery, therefore inſert here the little I could collect relating to it: the fiſh ſeldom appear in the Tyne till February: there are about 24 fiſheries on the river, beſides a very conſiderable were, and the whole annual capture amounts to about 36,000 fiſh. I was informed that once the fiſh were brought from Berwick and cured at Newcaſtle; but at pre⯑ſent, notwithſtanding all goes under the name of Newcaſtle Salmon, very little is taken there, in compariſon of what is caught in the Tweed.

The country near Carliſle conſiſts of ſmall en⯑cloſures; but a little farther on, towards Penrith, changes into coarſe downs. On the eaſt, at a dif⯑tance, are ridges of high hills running parallel to the road, with a good incloſed country in the inter⯑vening ſpace. Above Penrith is a rich incloſed tract, mixed with hedge-row trees and woods. On the ſouth-weſt, a proſpect of high and craggy mountains. After I left Lockerby, Nature, as if exhauſted with her labors in the lofty hills of Scot⯑land, ſeemed to have lain down and repoſed herſelf for a conſiderable ſpace; but here began to riſe again with all the ſublimity of alpine majeſty.

PENRITH is an antient town,PENRITH. ſeated at the foot of a hill: is a great thoroughfare for travellers; but has little other trade, except a ſmall one of checks. The church is very neat, the gallery ſup⯑ported by large columns, each formed of a ſingle ſtone. In the chuech-yard is s monument of great [219] antiquity, conſiſting of two ſtone pillars eleven feet ſix inches high, and five in circumference in the lower part, which is rounded; the upper is ſquare, and tapers to a point: in the ſquare part is ſome fret-work, and the relievo of a croſs. Both theſe ſtones are mortifed at their lower part into a round one: they are about fifteen feet aſunder; the ſpace between them is incloſed on each ſide with two very large but thin ſemicircular ſtones; ſo that there is left a walk between pillar and pillar of two feet in breadth. Two of theſe leſſer ſtones are plain, the other two, have certain figures at preſent ſcarce intelligible.

Croſs the Emot, a ſmall river, and ſoon after the Lowther, SEPT. 21. over Yeoman's Bridge, near which I enter WESTMORLAND. About four miles farther croſs Clifton Moor, where the Rebels made a ſhort ſtand in 1745, and ſacrificed a few men to ſave the reſt of their army. Paſs over Shap Fells, more black, dreary, and melancholy, than any of the High⯑land hills, being not only very barren but deſtitute of every pictureſque beauty. This barren ſcene continued till within a ſmall diſtance of

KENDAL, a large town on the river Kent, in a rich and beautifull vale,Kendal. well cultivated, and pret⯑tily wooded. Here is a very great trade in knit worſted-ſtockings, ſome linſies, and a coarſe ſort of cloth, called cottons, for the Guinea trade.

Near Burton enter LANCASHIRE. Reach its ca⯑pital, Lancaſter, a large and well-built town, ſeated on the Lune, Lancaſter. a river navigable for ſhips of 250 tuns as high as the bridge. The cuſtom-houſe is a ſmall but moſt elegant building, with a portico [220] ſupported by four ionic pillars, on a beautifull plain pediment. There is a double flight of ſteps, a ruſtic ſurbaſe and coins; a work that does much credit to Mr. Giller, the architect, an inhabitant of this town.

The church is ſeated on an eminence, and com⯑mands an extenſive but not a pleaſing view. The caſtle is entire, the courts of juſtice are held in it; and it is alſo the county jail. The front is very handſome, conſiſts of two large angular towers, with a handſome gateway between.

Haſtened through Preſton,SEPT. 22.Wiggan, Warrington, and Cheſter, and finiſhed my journey with a rap⯑ture of which no fond parent can be ignorant, that of being again reſtored to two innocent prat⯑tlers after an abſence equally regretted by all parties.