CHAP. I.

I Sail'd from the Downs early on Saturday, Jan. 14. 1698/9. with a fair Wind, in his Majeſty's Ship the Roe-buck; carrying but 12 Guns in this Voyage, and 50 Men and Boys, with 20 Month's Proviſion. We had ſeveral of the King's Ships in Company, bound for Spit-head and Plimouth; and by Noon we were off Dungeneſs. We parted from them that Night, and ſtood down the Channel, but found our Selves next Morning nearer the French Coaſt than we expected; C. de Hague bearing S. E. and by E. 6 L. There were many other Ships, ſome nearer, ſome further off the French Coaſt, who all [3] ſeem'd to have gone nearer to it than they thought they ſhould. My Maſter, who was ſomewhat troubled at it at firſt, was not diſ⯑pleas'd however to find that he had Company in his Miſtake: Which, as I have heard, is a very common one, and fatal to many Ships. The Occaſion of it is the not allowing for the Change of the Variation ſince the making of the Charts; which Captain Halley has obſerv'd to be very conſiderable. I ſhall refer the Reader to his own Account of it which he caus'd to be Publiſh'd in a ſingle Sheet of Paper, purpoſely for a Caution to ſuch as paſs to and fro the Engliſh Channel: The Ti⯑tle of it is in the Margin.An Ad⯑vertiſe⯑ment ne⯑ceſſary to be obſerv'd in the Na⯑vigation up and down the Channel of England. Sold by S. Smith at the Prince's Arms in St. Paul's Church⯑yard. Price 2 d. And my own Ex⯑perience thus confirming to me the Uſefulneſs of ſuch a Caution, I was willing to take this occaſion of helping towards the making it the more Publick.

Not to trouble the Reader with every Days Run, nor with the Winds or Weather (but only in the remoter Parts, where it may be more particularly uſeful) ſtanding away from C. la Hague, we made the Start about 5 that Afternoon; which being the laſt Land we ſaw of England, we reckon'd our Depar⯑ture from thence: Tho' we had rather have taken it from the Lizard, if the hazy Wea⯑ther would have ſuffer'd us to have ſeen it.

The firſt Land we ſaw after we were out of the Channel was C. Finiſterre, which we made on the 19th; and on the 28th made [4] Lancerota, one of the Canary Iſlands; of which, and of Allegrance, another of them, I have here given the Sights, as they both appeared to us at two ſeveral Bearings and Diſtances. [Table I. N^o. 1, 2.]

We were now ſtanding away for the Iſland Teneriffe, where I intended to take in ſome Wine and Brandy for my Voyage. On Sun⯑day, half an hour paſt 3 in the Afternoon, we made the Iſland, and crouded in with all our Sails till 5; when the N. E. Point of the Iſle bore W. S. W. diſt. 7 Leagues: But being then ſo far off that I could not expect to get in before Night, I lay by till next Morning, deliberating whether I ſhould put in at Santa Cruz, or at Oratavia, the one on the E. the other on the W. ſide of the Iſland; which lies moſtly North and South; and theſe are the principal Ports on each Side. I choſe Santa Cruz as the better Harbour (eſpecially at this time of the Year) and as beſt furniſh'd with that ſort of Wine which I had occaſion to take in for my Voyage: So there I come to an Anchor Jan. 30th, in 33 Fathom-wa⯑ter, black ſlimy Ground; about half a Mile from the Shore; from which diſtance I took the Sight of the Town. [Table I. N^o. 3.]

Soon after I had anchor'd I went aſhore here to the Governor of the Town, who re⯑ceived me very kindly and invited me to Dine with him the next day. I return'd on board in the Evening, and went aſhore again with two of my Officers the next Morning; hoping to get up the Hill time enough to ſee Laguna, the principal Town, and to be back again to Dine with the Governor of Santa Cruz; for I was told that Laguna was but 3 Mile off. The Road is all the way up a pret⯑ty ſteep Hill; yet not ſo ſteep but that Carts go up and down laden. There are Publick Houſes ſcattering by the way-ſide, where we got ſome Wine. The Land on each ſide ſeemed to be but rocky and dry; yet in many Places we ſaw Spots of green flouriſhing Corn. At farther diſtances there were ſmall Vineyards by the Sides of the Mountains, in⯑termixt with abundance of waſte rocky Land, unfit for Cultivation, which afforded only Dildo-buſhes. It was about 7 or 8 in the Morning when we ſet out from Santa Cruz; and it being fair clear Weather, the Sun ſhone very bright and warmed us ſufficiently be⯑fore we got to the City Laguna; which we reached about 10 a Clock, all ſweaty and tired, and were glad to refreſh our ſelves with a little Wine in a ſorry Tipling-houſe: [7] But we ſoon found out one of the Engliſh Merchants that reſided here; who enter⯑tain'd us handſomly at Dinner, and in the Afternoon ſhew'd us the Town.

Laguna is a pretty large well-compacted Town, and makes a very agreeable Proſpect. It ſtands part of it againſt a Hill, and part in a Level. The Houſes have moſtly ſtrong Walls built with Stone and covered with Pantile. They are not uniform, yet they appear pleaſant enough. There are many fair Buildings; among which are 2 Pariſh-Churches, 2 Nunneries, an Hoſpital, 4 Con⯑vents, and ſome Chapels; beſides many Gentlemen's Houſes. The Convents are thoſe of St. Auſtin, St. Dominick, St. Francis, and St. Diego. The two Churches have pret⯑ty high ſquare Steeples, which top the reſt of the Buildings. The Streets are not Regular, yet they are moſtly ſpacious and pretty hand⯑ſome; and near the middle of the Town is a large Parade, which has good Buildings about it. There is a ſtrong Priſon on one ſide of it; near which is a large Conduit of good Water, that ſupplies all the Town. They have many Gardens which are ſet round with Oranges, Limes, and other Fruits: In the middle of which are Pot-herbs, Sallading, Flowers, &c. And, indeed, if the Inhabi⯑tants were curious this way, they might have very pleaſant Gardens: For as the Town ſtands high from the Sea, on the Brow of a Plain that is all open to the Eaſt, and [8] hath conſequently the Benefit of the true Trade-wind, which blows here, and is moſt commonly fair; ſo there are ſeldom wanting, at this Town, brisk, cooling, and refreſhing Breezes all the Day.

On the back of the Town there is a large Plain of 3 or 4 Leagues in length and 2 Miles wide, producing a thick kindly ſort of Graſs, which look'd green and very pleaſant when I was there, like our Meadows in England in the Spring. On the Eaſt-ſide of this Plain, very near the back of the Town, there is a natural Lake or Pond of freſh Water. It is about half a Mile in circumference; but be⯑ing ſtagnant, 'tis only us'd for Cattle to drink of. In the Winter-time ſeveral ſorts of wild Fowl reſort hither, affording plenty of Game to the Inhabitants of Laguna. This City is called Laguna from hence; for that Word in Spaniſh ſignifies a Lake or Pond. The Plain is bounded on the W. the N. W. and the S. W. with high ſteep Hills; as high above this Plain as this is above the Sea; and 'tis from the foot of one of theſe Mountains that the Water of the Conduit which ſupplies the Town, is conveyed over the Plain, in Troughs of Stone rais'd upon Pillars. And, indeed, conſidering the Situation of the Town, its large Proſpect to the Eaſt (for from hence you ſee the Grand Canary) its Gardens, cool Arbors, pleaſant Plain, green Fields, the Pond and Aqueduct, and its refreſhing Breezes, it is a very delightful Dwelling; [9] eſpecially for ſuch as have not Buſineſs that calls them far and often from home: For the Iſland being generally Mountainous, ſteep and craggy, full of Riſings and Fallings, 'tis very troubleſome Travelling up and down in it, unleſs in the Cool of the Mornings and Evenings: And Mules and Aſſes are moſt us'd by them, both for Riding and Carriage, as fitteſt for the ſtony, uneven Roads.

Beyond the Mountains, on the S. W. ſide, ſtill further up, you may ſee from the Town and Plain a ſmall peeked Hill, overlooking the reſt. This is that which is called the Pike of Teneriffe [...], ſo much noted for its heighth: But we ſaw it here at ſo great a diſadvantage, by reaſon of the nearneſs of the adjacent Mountains to us, that it looked in⯑conſiderable in reſpect to its Fame.

The true Malmeſy Wine grows in this Iſland; and this here is ſaid to be the beſt of its kind in the World. Here is alſo Canary-Wine, and Verdona, or Green-wine. The Canary grows chiefly on the Weſt-ſide of the Iſland; and therefore is commonly ſent to Oratavia; which being the chief Sea-port for Trade in the Iſland, the principal Engliſh Merchants reſide there, with their Conſul; becauſe we have a great Trade for this Wine. I was told, That that Town is bigger than Laguna; that it has but one Church, but ma⯑ny Convents: That the Port is but ordinary at beſt, and is very bad when the N. W. Winds blow. Theſe Norweſters give no⯑tice [10] of their coming, by a great Sea that tumbles in on the Shore for ſome time before they come, and by a black Sky in the N. W. Upon theſe Signs Ships either get up their Anchors, or ſlip their Cables and put to Sea, and ply off and on till the Weather is over. Sometimes they are forced to do ſo 2 or 3 times before they can take in their Lad⯑ing; which 'tis hard to do here in the faireſt Weather: And for freſh Water, they ſend, as I have ſaid, to Santa Cruz. Verdona is green, ſtrong-bodied Wine, harſher and ſharper than Canary. 'Tis not ſo much e⯑ſteemed in Europe, but is exported to the Weſt-Indies, and will keep beſt in hot Countries; for which Reaſon I touch'd here to take in ſome of it for my Voyage. This ſort of Wine is made chiefly on the Eaſt-ſide of the Iſland, and Shipt off at Santa Cruz.

Beſides theſe Wines, which are yearly vended in great plenty from the Canary Iſlands (chiefly from Grand Canary, Teneriffe, and Palma) here is ſtore of Grain, as Wheat, Bar⯑ly and Maiz, which they often tranſport to other places. They have alſo ſome Beans and Peas, and Coches, a ſort of Grain much like Maiz, ſow'd moſtly to ſatten Land. They have Papah's, which I ſhall ſpeak more of hereafter; Apples, Pears, Plumbs, Cherries, and excellent Peaches, Apricocks, Guava's, Pomegranates, Citrons, Oranges, Lemons, Limes, Pumpkins, Onions the beſt in the World, Cabbages, Turnips, Potato's, &c. [11] They are alſo well ſtocked with Horſes, Cows, Aſſes, Mules, Sheep, Goats, Hogs, Conies, and plenty of Deer. The Lancerot Horſes are ſaid to be the moſt mettleſome, fleet, and loyal Horſes that are. Laſtly, here are many Fowls, as Cocks and Hens, Ducks, Pidgeons, Patridges, &c. with plenty of Fiſh, as Mackril, &c. All the Canary Iſlands have of theſe Commodities and Proviſions more or leſs: But as Lancerota is moſt fam'd for Hor⯑ſes, and Grand Canary, Teneriffe, and Palma for Wines, Teneriffe eſpecially for the beſt Malmeſy, (for which reaſon theſe 3 Iſlands have the chief Trade) ſo is Forteventura for Dunghil-Fowls, and Gomera for Deer. Fowls and other Eatables are dear on the Trading Iſlands; but very plentiful and cheap on the other; and therefore 'tis beſt for ſuch Ships as are going out on long Voyages, and who deſign to take in but little Wine, to touch rather at theſe laſt; where alſo they may be ſupply'd with Wine enough, and good cheap: And for my own part, if I had known it before I came hither, I ſhould have gone rather to one of thoſe Iſlands than to Teneriffe: But enough of this.

'Tis reported they can raiſe 12000 armed Men on this Iſland. The Governor or Gene⯑ral (as he is call'd) of all the Canary Iſlands lives at Laguna: His Name is Don Pedro de Ponto. He is a Native of this Iſland, and was not long ſince Preſident of Panama in the South Seas; who bringing ſome very rich [12] Pearls from thence, which he preſented to the Queen of Spain, was therefore, as 'tis ſaid, made General of the Canary Iſlands. The Grand Canary is an Iſland much ſuperior to Teneriffe both in Bulk and Value; but this Gentleman chuſes rather to reſide in this his native Iſland. He has the Character of a ve⯑ry worthy Perſon; and governs with Mode⯑ration and Juſtice, being very well be⯑loved.

One of his Deputies was the Governor of Santa Cruz, with whom I was to have Din'd; but ſtaying ſo long at Laguna, I came but time enough to Sup with him. He is a civil, diſcreet Man. He reſides in the main Fort cloſe by the Sea. There is a Centinel ſtands at his Door; and he has a few Ser⯑vants to wait on him. I was Treated in a large dark Lower Room, which has but one ſmall Window. There were about 200 Muſ⯑kets hung up againſt the Walls, and ſome Pikes; no Wainſcot, Hangings, nor much Furniture. There was only a ſmall old Table, a few old Chairs, and 2 or 3 pretty long Forms to ſit on. Having Supp'd with him, I invited him on Board, and went off in my Boat. The next Morning he came aboard with another Gentleman in his Company, attended by 2 Servants: But he was preſent⯑ly Sea-ſick, and ſo much out of order that he could ſcarce Eat or Drink any Thing, but went quickly aſhore again.

[13] Having refreſh'd my Men aſhore, and ta⯑ken in what we had occaſion for, I Sail'd a⯑way from Santa Cruz on Feb. 4. in the After⯑noon; haſtening out all I could, becauſe the N. E. Winds growing ſtormy made ſo great Sea, that the Ship was ſcarce ſafe in the Road; and I was glad to get out, tho' we left behind ſeveral Goods we had bought and paid for: For a Boat could not go aſhore; and the ſtreſs was ſo great in weighing Anchor, that the Cable broke. I deſign'd next for the I. of Mayo, one of the C. Verd Iſlands; and ran away with a ſtrong N. E. Wind, right afore it, all that Night and the next Day, at the rate of 10 or 11 Miles an hour; when it ſlacken'd to a more moderate Gale. The Ca⯑nary Iſlands are, for their Latitude, within the uſual Verge of the True or General Trade-Wind; which I have obſerv'd to be, on this ſide the Equator, N. Eaſterly: But then lying not far from the African Shore, they are moſt ſubject to a N. Wind, which is the Coaſting and conſtant Trade, ſweeping that Coaſt down as low as to C. Verd; which ſpreading in breadth, takes in moſtly the Ca⯑nary Iſlands; tho' it be there interrupted fre⯑quently with the True Trade-Wind, N. Weſt-Winds, or other Shifts of Wind that Iſlands are Subject to; eſpecially where they lie many together. The Pike of Teneriffe, which had generally been Clouded while we lay at Santa Cruz, appear'd now all white with Snow, hovering over the other Hills; [14] but their heighth made it ſeem the leſs conſi⯑derable; for it looks moſt remarkable to Ships that are to the Weſtward of it. We had brisk N. N. E. and N. E. Winds from Tene⯑riffe; and ſaw Flying-fiſh, and a great deal of Sea-thiſtle Weed floating. By the 9th of Feb. at Noon we were in the Lat. of 15 d. 4 m. ſo we ſteered away W. N. W. for the I. of Mayo, being by Judgment, not far to the E. of it, and at 8 a Clock in the Evening lay by till Day. The Wind was then at W. by S. and ſo it continued all Night, fair Weather, and a ſmall eaſie Gale. All theſe were great Signs, that we were near ſome Land, after having had ſuch conſtant brisk Winds before. In the Morning after Sun⯑riſe, we ſaw the Iſland at about 4 Leagues diſtance. But it was ſo hazy over it, that we could ſee but a ſmall part of it; yet even by that part I knew it to be the Iſle of Mayo. See how it appear'd to us at ſeveral Views, as we were compaſſing the E. the S. E. and the S. of it, to get to the Road, on the S. W. of it, [Table II. N^o. 1, 2, 3.] and the Road it ſelf [N^o. 4.]

I have given ſome Account of the Iſland of Mayo, and of other of theſe Iſlands, in my Voyage round the World, [Vol. I. p. 70.] but I ſhall now add ſome further Obſervations that occurr'd to me in this Voyage. The I. of Mayo is about 7 Leagues in Circumference, of a roundiſh Form, with many ſmall rocky Points ſhooting out into the Sea a Mile, or more. Its Lat. is 15 d. N. and as you Sail about the Iſle, when you come pretty nigh the Shore, you will ſee the Water breaking off from thoſe Points; which you muſt give a Birth to, and avoid them. I Sail'd at this time two parts in three round the Iſland, but ſaw nothing dangerous beſides theſe Points; and they all ſhew'd themſelves by the Break⯑ing of the Water: Yet 'tis reported, That on the N. and N. N. W. ſide there are dan⯑gerous Sholes, that ly farther off at Sea; but I was not on that Side. There are 2 Hills [16] on this Iſland of a conſiderable heighth; one pretty bluff, the other peeked at top. The reſt of the Iſland is pretty level, and of a good heighth from the Sea. The Shore clear round hath ſandy Bays, between the Rocky Points I ſpake of; and the whole Iſland is a very dry ſort of Soil.

On the Weſt-ſide of the Iſle where the Road for Ships is there is a large Sandy Bay, and a Sand-bank, of about 40 Paces wide within it, which runs along the Shore 2 or 3 Miles; within which there is a large Salina or Salt-pond, contained between the Sand-bank and the Hills beyond it. The whole Salina is about 2 Miles in length, and half a Mile wide; but above one half of it is com⯑monly dry. The North end only of the Pond never wants Water, producing Salt from No⯑vember till May, which is here the dry Seaſon of the Year. The Water which yields this Salt works in from out of the Sea through a hole in the Sand-bank before mentioned, like a Sluce, and that only in Spring-tides; when it fills the Pond more or leſs, according to the heighth of the Tides. If there is any Salt in the Ponds when the Fluſh of Water comes in, it preſently diſſolves: But then in two or three Days after it begins to Kern; and ſo continues Kerning till either all, or the great⯑eſt part of the Salt-water is congeal'd or kern'd; or till a freſh Supply of it comes in again from the Sea. This Water is known to come in only at that one Paſſage on the N. [17] part of the Pond; where alſo it is deepeſt. It was at a Spring of the New Moon when I was there; and I was told that it comes in at no other time but at the New Moon Spring-tides: but why that ſhould be I can't gueſs. They who come hither to lade Salt rake it up as it Kerns, and lay it in heaps on the dry Land, before the Wa⯑ter breaks in anew: And this is obſervable of this Salt-Pond, that the Salt kerns only in the Dry Seaſon, contrary to the Salt-Ponds in the West-Indies, particularly thoſe of the Iſland Salt-Tortuga, which I have formerly mentioned [Vol. I. p. 56.] for they never Kern there till the Rains come in about April; and continue to do ſo in May, June, July, &c. while the Wet Sea⯑ſon laſts; and not without ſome good Shower of Rain firſt: But the Reaſon al⯑ſo of this Difference between the Salt-Ponds of Mayo, and thoſe of the West-Indies, why theſe ſhould Kern in the Wet Seaſon, and the former in the Dry S [...]on, I ſhall leave to Philoſophers.

Our Nation drive here a great Trade for Salt, and have commonly a Man of War here for the Guard of our Ships and Barks that come to take it in; of which I have been inform'd that in ſome Years there have not been leſs than 100 in a Year. It coſts nothing but Men's Labour to rake it together, and wheel it out of the Pond, [18] except the Carriage: And that alſo is very cheap; the Inhabitants having plenty of Aſſes, for which they have little to do be⯑ſides carrying the Salt from the Ponds to the Sea-tide at the Seaſon when Ships are here. The Inhabitants lade and drive their Aſſes themſelves, being very glad to be imploy'd; for they have ſcarce any o⯑ther Trade but this to get a Penny by. The Pond is not above half a Mile from the Landing-place, ſo that the Aſſes make a great many Trips in a day. They have a ſet number of Turns to and fro both Forenoon and Afternoon, which their Owners will not exceed. At the Landing-place there lies a Frape-boat, as our Seamen call it, to take in the Salt. 'Tis made purpoſely for this uſe, with a Deck reaching from the Stern a third part of the Boat; where there is a kind of Bulk-head that riſes, not from the Boats bottom, but from the Edge of the Deck, to about 2 foot in heighth; all calk'd very tight. The Uſe of it is to keep the Waves from daſhing into the Boat, when it lies with its Head to the Shore, to take in Salt: For here commonly runs a great Sea; and when the Boat lies ſo with its Head to the Shore, the Sea breaks in over the Stern, and would ſoon fill it, was it not for this Bulk-head, which ſtops the Waves that come flowing upon the Deck, [19] and makes them run off into the Sea on each ſide. To keep the Boat thus with the Head to the Shore, and the Stern to the Sea, there are two ſtrong Stantions ſet up in the Boat; the one at the Head, the o⯑ther in the middle of it, againſt the Bulk-head, and a Foot higher than the Bulk-head. There is a large Notch cut in the top of each of theſe Stantions big enough for a ſmall Hazer or Rope to lie in; one end of which is faſten'd to a Poſt aſhore, and the other to a Grapling or An⯑chor lying a pretty way off at Sea: This Rope ſerveth to hale the Boat in and out, and the Stantions ſerve to keep her faſt, ſo that ſhe cannot ſwing to either ſide when the Rope is hal'd tight: For the Sea would elſe fill her, or toſs her aſhore and ſtave her. The better to prevent her ſtaving and to keep her the tighter together, there are two ſets of Ropes more: The firſt go⯑ing athwart from Gunnal to Gunnal, which, when the Rowers Benches are laid, bind the Boats ſides ſo hard againſt the Ends of the Benches that they cannot eaſily fall aſunder, while the Benches and Ropes mutually help each other; the Ropes keeping the Boats ſides from flying off, and the Benches from being cruſh'd together inwards. Of theſe Ropes there are uſual⯑ly but two, dividing the Boats length, as they go acroſs the Sides, into there equal [20] parts. The other ſet of Ropes are more in number, and are ſo plac'd as to keep the Ribs and Planks of the Boat from ſtarting off. For this purpoſe there are holes made at certain diſtances through the Edge of the Keel that runs along on the inſide of the Boat; through which theſe Ropes paſ⯑ſing are laid along the Ribs, ſo as to line them, or be themſelves as Ribs upon them, being made faſt to them by Rattan's brought thither, or ſmall Cords twiſted cloſe about both Ropes and Ribs, up to the Gunnal: By which means tho' ſeveral of the Nails or Pegs of the Boat ſhould by any ſhock fall out, yet the Ropes of theſe two ſets might hold her together: Eſpe⯑cially with the help of a Rope going quite round about the Gunnal on the out-ſide, as our Long-boats have. And ſuch is the Care taken to ſtrengthen the Boats; from which girding them with Ropes, which our Seamen call Fraping, they have the Name of Frape-boats. Two Men ſuffice to hale her in and out, and take in the Salt from Shore (which is brought in Bags) and put it out again. As ſoon as the Boat is brought nigh enough to the Shore, he who ſtands by the Bulk-head takes inſtantly a turn with the Hazer about the Bulk-head-Stantion; and that ſtops her faſt before the Sea can turn her aſide: And when the two Men have got in their Lad⯑ing, [21] they hale off to Sea, till they come a little without the ſwell; where they re⯑move the Salt into another Boat that car⯑ries it on board the Ship. Without ſuch a Frape-boat here is but bad Landing at any time: for tho' 'tis commonly very ſmooth in the Road, yet there falls a great Sea on the Shore, ſo that every Ship that comes here ſhould have ſuch a Boat, and bring, or make, or borrow one of other Ships that happen to be here; for the Inhabi⯑tants have none. I have been thus parti⯑cular in the Deſcription of theſe Frape-boats, becauſe of the Uſe they may be of in any Places where a great Sea falls in upon the Shore; as it doth eſpecially in many open Roads in the East and West-Indies; where they might therefore be very ſer⯑viceable; but I never ſaw any of them there.

The Iſland Mayo is generally barren, be⯑ing dry, as I ſaid; and the beſt of it is but a very indifferent Soil. The ſandy Bank that pens in the Salt-pond hath a ſort of Silk Cotton growing upon it, and a Plant that runs along upon the Ground, branch⯑ing out like a Vine, but with thick broad Leaves. The Silk-Cotton grows on ten⯑der Shrubs, 3 or 4 Foot high, in Cods as big as an Apple, but of a long ſhape; which when ripe open at one end, parting leiſure⯑ly into 4 quarters; and at the firſt open⯑ing [22] the Cotton breaks forth. It may be of uſe for ſtuffing of Pillows, or the like; but elſe is of no value, any more than that of the great Cotton-tree. I took of theſe Cods before they were quite ripe, and laid them in my Cheſt; and in two or three days they would open and throw out the Cotton. Others I have bound faſt with Strings, ſo that the Cod could not open; and in a few Days after, as ſoon as I ſlack⯑ned the String never ſo little, the Cod would burſt, and the Cotton fly out force⯑ably, at a very little hole, juſt as the Pulp out of a roaſting Apple, till all has been out of the Cod. I met with this ſort of Cotton afterwards at Timor (where it was ripe in November) and no where elſe in all my Travels; but I found two o⯑ther ſorts of Silk-cotton at Brazil, which I ſhall there deſcribe. The right Cotton-Shrub grows here alſo, but not on the Sand-bank. I ſaw ſome Buſhes of it near the Shore; but the moſt of it is planted in the middle of the Iſle, where the Inhabi⯑tants live, Cotton-cloth being their chief Manufacture; but neither is there any great ſtore of this Cotton. There alſo are ſome Trees within the Iſland, but none to be ſeen near the Sea-ſide; nothing but a few Buſhes ſcattering up and down againſt the ſides of the adjacent Hills; for, as I ſaid before, the Land is pretty high from [23] the Sea. The Soil is for the moſt part either a ſort of Sand, or looſe crumbling Stone, without any freſh Water Ponds or Streams, to moiſten it; but only Showers in the Wet-ſeaſon, which run off as faſt as they fall: except a ſmall Spring in the middle of the Iſle, from which proceeds a little Stream of Water that runs through a Valley between the Hills. There the Inhabitants live in three ſmall Towns, hav⯑ing a Church and Padre in each Town: And theſe Towns, as I was inform'd, are 6 or 7 miles from the Road. Pinoſe is ſaid to be the chief Town, and to have two Churches: St. Johns the next; and the third Lagoa. The Houſes are very mean; ſmall, low Things. They build with Fig-tree; here being, as I was told, no other Trees fit to build with. The Raf⯑ters are a ſort of wild Cane. The Fruits of this Iſle are chiefly Figs, and Water-Melons. They have alſo Callavances (a ſort of Pulſe like French Beans) and Pump⯑kins, for ordinary Food. The Fowls are Flamingo's, Great Curlews, and Guinea-Hens; which the Natives of thoſe Iſlands call Gallena Pintada, or the Painted Hen; but in Jamaica, where I have ſeen alſo thoſe Birds in the dry Savannah's and Woods, (for they love to run about in ſuch Places) they are call'd Guinea-Hens. They ſeem to be much of the Nature of Partridges. [24] They are bigger than our Hens, have long Legs, and will run apace. They can fly too, but not far, having large heavy Bodies, and but ſhort Wings, and ſhort Tails: As I have generally obſerv'd that Birds have ſeldom long Tails unleſs ſuch as fly much; in which their Tails are uſual⯑ly ſerviceable to their turning about, as a Rudder to a Ship or Boat. Theſe Birds have thick and ſtrong, yet ſharp Bills, pretty long Claws, and ſhort Tails. They feed on the Ground, either on Worms, which they find by tearing open the Earth; or on Graſhoppers, which are plentiful here. The Feathers of theſe Birds are ſpeckled with dark and light Gray; the spots ſo regular and uniform, that they look more beautiful than many Birds that are deck'd with gayer Feathers. Their Necks are ſmall and long; their Heads alſo but little. The Cocks have a ſmall riſing on their Crowns, like a ſort of a Comb. 'Tis of the colour of a dry Wall Nut-ſhell, and very hard. They have a ſmall red Gill on each ſide of their Heads, like Ears, ſtrutting out downwards; but the Hens have none. They are ſo ſtrong that one cannot hold them; and very hardy. They are very good Meat, ten⯑der, and ſweet; and in ſome the Fleſh is extraordinary white; tho' ſome others have black Fleſh: but both ſorts are very [25] good. The Natives take them with Dogs, running them down whenever they pleaſe; for here are abundance of them. You ſhall ſee 2 or 300 in a company. I had ſeveral brought aboard alive, where they throve very well; ſome of them 16 or 18 Months; when they began to pine. When they are taken young they will become tame like our Hens. The Flamingo's I have already deſcrib'd at large, [Vol. I. p. 79.] They have alſo many other ſort of Fowls, viz. Pidgeons and Turtle-doves; Miniota's, a ſort of Land-fowls as big as Crows, of a grey colour, and good Food; Cruſia's, another ſort of grey-colour'd Fowl almoſt as big as a Crow, which are only ſeen in the Night (probably a ſort of Owls) and are ſaid to be good for con⯑ſumptive People, but eaten by none elſe. Rabek's, a ſort of large grey eatable Fowls with long Necks and Legs, not unlike Herons; and many kinds of ſmall Bitds.

Of Land-Animals, here are Goats, as I ſaid formerly, and Aſſes good ſtore. When I was here before they were ſaid to have had a great many Bulls and Cows: But the Pirates, who have ſince miſerably infeſted all theſe Iſlands, have much leſſen'd the number of thoſe; not having ſpar'd the Inhabitants them⯑ſelves: for at my being there this time the [26] Governor of Mayo was but newly return'd from being a Priſoner among them, they having taken him away, and carried him about with them for a Year or two.

The Sea is plentifully ſtock'd with Fiſh of divers ſorts, viz. Dolphins, Boneta's, Mullets, Snappers, Silver-fiſh, Garfiſh, &c. and here is a good Bay to hale a Sain or Net in. I hal'd mine ſeveral times, and to good purpoſe; dragging aſhore at one time 6 dozen of great Fiſh, moſt of them large Mullets of a foot and a half or two foot long. Here are alſo Porpoſes, and a ſmall ſort of Whales, that common⯑ly viſit this Road every day. I have al⯑ready ſaid, [Vol. I. p. 75.] That the Months of May, June, July and August, (that is, the Wet Seaſon) are the time, when the Green Turtle come hither, and go aſhore to lay their Eggs. I look upon it as a thing worth taking Notice of, that the Turtle ſhould always, both in North and South Latitude, lay their Eggs in the Wet Months. It might be thought, con⯑ſidering what great Rains there are then in ſome places where theſe Creatures lay, that their Eggs ſhould be ſpoiled by them. But the Rain, tho' violent, is ſoon ſoaked up by the Sand, wherein the Eggs are buri⯑ed; and perhaps ſinks not ſo deep into it as the Eggs are laid: And keeping down the Heat may make the Sand hotter below [27] than it was before, like a Hot-bed. What⯑ever the Reaſon may be why Providence determines theſe Creatures to this Seaſon of laying their Eggs, rather than the Dry, in Fact it is ſo, as I have conſtantly ob⯑ſerv'd; and that not only with the Sea-Turtle, but with all other ſorts of Amphi⯑bious Animals that lay Eggs; as Croco⯑dils, Alligator's, Guano's, &c. The In⯑habitants of this Iſland, even their Gover⯑nour and Padre's, are all Negro's, Wool⯑pated like their African-Neighbours; from whom 'tis like they are deſcended; tho' being Subjects to the Portugueſe they have their Religion and Language. They are ſtout, luſty, well-limb'd People, both Men and Women, fat and fleſhy; and they and their Children as round and plump as little Porpoſes; tho' the Iſland appears ſo barren to a Stranger as ſcarce to have Food for its Inhabitants. I inquired how many People there might be on the Iſle; And was told by one of the Padre's, that here were 230 Souls in all. The Negro-Governor has his Patent from the Portu⯑gueſe Governor of St. Jago. He is a very civil and ſenſible poor Man; and they are generally a good ſort of People. He ex⯑pects a ſmall Preſent from every Com⯑mander that lades Salt here; and is glad to be invited aboard their Ships. He ſpends moſt of his time with the Engliſh in the [28] Salting Seaſon, which is his Harveſt; and indeed, all the Iſlanders are then fully em⯑ployed in getting ſomewhat; for they have no Veſſels of their own to Trade with, nor do any Portugueſe-Veſſels come hither: ſcarce any but Engliſh, on whom they depend for Trade; and tho' Subjects of Portugal, have a particular Value for us. We don't pay them for their Salt, but for the Labour of themſelves and their Beaſts in lading it: for which we give them Vi⯑ctuals, ſome Mony, and old Cloaths, viz. Hats, Shirts, and other Cloaths: by which means many of them are indifferently well rigg'd; but ſome of them go almoſt Naked. When the Turtle-ſeaſon comes in they watch the Sandy-bays in the Night, to turn them; and having ſmall Huts at par⯑ticular Places on the Bays to keep them from the Rain, and to ſleep in: And this is another Harveſt they have for Food; for by Report there come a great many Tur⯑tle to this and the reſt of the Cape Verd Iſlands. When the Turtle Seaſon is over they have little to do but to hunt for Guinea-Hens, and manage their ſmall Plan⯑tations. But by theſe means they have all the Year ſome Employment or other; whereby they get a Subſiſtence, tho' but little elſe. When any of them are deſirous to go over to St. Jago they get a Licence from the Governor, and deſire paſſage in [29] any Engliſh Ship that is going thither: And indeed all Ships that lade Salt here will be obliged to touch at St. Jago for Water, for here at the Bay is none, not ſo much as for Drinking. 'Tis true there is a ſmall Well of brackiſh Water not half a mile from the Landing-place, which the Aſſes that carry Salt drink at; but 'tis very bad Water. Aſſes themſelves are a Com⯑modity in ſome of theſe Iſlands, ſeveral of our Ships coming hither purpoſely to freight with them, and carry them to Barbadoes and our other Plantations. I ſtay'd at Mayo 6 days, and got 7 or 8 Tun of Salt aboard for my Voyage: In which time there came alſo into this Road ſeveral Sail of Merchants Ships for Salt; all bound with it for Newfoundland.

The 19th day of February, at about One a Clock in the Morning I weighed from Mayo-Road, in order to Water at St. Jago, which was about 5 or 6 Leagues to the Weſtward. We coaſted along the Iſland St. Jago, and paſt by the Port on the Eaſt of it, I mention'd formerly [Vol. I. p. 76.] which they call Praya; where ſome Eng⯑liſh outward-bound East-India Men ſtill touch, but not ſo many of them as hereto⯑fore. We ſaw the Fort upon the Hill, the Houſes and Coco-nut Trees: But I would not go in to anchor here, becauſe I expe⯑cted better Water on the S. W. of the [30] Iſland, at St. Jago Town. By 8 a Clock in the Morning we ſaw the Ships in that Road, being within 3 Leagues of it: But were forc'd to keep Turning many hours to get in, the Flaws of Wind coming ſo uncertain; as they do eſpecially to the Lee⯑ward of Iſlands that are High Land. At length two Portugueſe boats came off to help tow us in; and about 3 a Clock in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor; and took the Proſpect of the Town, [Table II. N^o. 5.] We found here, be⯑ſides two Portugueſe-Ships bound for Brazil, whoſe Boats had tow'd us in; an Engliſh Pink that had taken in Aſſes at one of the Cape Verd Iſlands, and was bound to Barbadoes with them. Next Morning I went Aſhore with my Officers to the Governor, who treated us with Sweet-meats: I told him, the occa⯑ſion of my coming was chiefly for Water; and that I deſired alſo to take in ſome Re⯑freſhments of Fowls, &c. He ſaid I was welcom, and that he would order the Townſmen to bring their Commodities to a certain Houſe, where I might purchaſe what I had occaſion for: I told him I had not Mony, but would exchange ſome of the Salt which I brought from Mayo for their Commodities. He reply'd, that Salt was indeed an acceptable Commodity with the poor People, but that if I deſign'd to [31] buy any Cattle, I muſt give Mony for them. I contented my ſelf with taking in Dunghil Fowls: The Governor ordering a Cryer to go about the Town and give notice to the People, that they might repair to ſuch a place with Fowls, and Maiz for feeding them, where they might get Salt in exchange for them: So I ſent on board for Salt, and ordered ſome of my Men to truck the ſame for the Fowls and Maiz, while the reſt of them were buſie in filling of Wa⯑ter. This is the effect of their keeping no Boats of their own on the ſeveral Iſlands, that they are glad to buy even their own Salt of Foreigners, for want of being able to tranſport it themſelves from Iſland to Iſland.

St. Jago Town lies on the S. W. part of the Iſland, in Lat. about 15 Deg. N. and is the Seat of the General Governour, and of the Biſhop of all the Cape Verd Iſlands. This Town ſtands ſcattering a⯑gainſt the ſides of two Mountains, be⯑tween which there is a deep Valley, which is about 200 Yards wide againſt the Sea; but within a quarter of a mile it cloſes up ſo as not to be 40 Yards wide. In the Valley, by the Sea, there is a ſtragling Street, Houſes on each ſide, and a Run of Water in the bottom, which empties it ſelf into a fine ſmall Cove or ſandy Bay, where the Sea is commonly very ſmooth: [32] ſo that here is good Wat'ring and good Landing at any time; tho' the Road be rocky and bad for Ships. Juſt by the Landing-place there is a ſmall Fort, almoſt level with the Sea, where is always a Court of Guard kept. On the top of the Hill, above the Town, there is another Fort; which, by the Wall that is to be ſeen from the Road, ſeems to be a large Place. They have Canon mounted there, but how many I know not: Neither what uſe that Fort can be of, except it be for Sa⯑lutes. The Town may conſiſt of 2 or 300 Houſes, all built of rough Stone; having alſo one Convent, and one Church.

The People in general are black, or at leaſt of a mixt colour, except only ſome few of the better ſort, viz. the Governor, the Biſhop, ſome Gentlemen, and ſome of the Padres; for ſome of theſe alſo are black. The People about Praya are Thieviſh; but theſe of St. Jago-Town, living under their Governour's Eye, are more orderly; tho' generally poor, having little Trade: Yet beſides chance Ships of other Nations, there come hither a Portugueſe Ship or two every Year, in their way to Brazil. Theſe vend among them a few European Com⯑modies, and take of their principal Manu⯑factures, viz. ſtriped Cotton-cloth, which they carry with them to Brazil. Here is alſo another Ship comes hither from Por⯑tugal [33] for Sugar, their other Manufacture, and returns with it directly thither: For 'tis reported that there are ſeveral ſmall Sugar-works on this Iſland, from which they ſend home near 100 Tun every year; and they have plenty of Cotton growing up in the Country, wherewith they cloath themſelves, and ſend alſo a great deal to Brazil. They have Vines, of which they make ſome Wine: but the European Ships furniſh them with better; tho' they drink but little of any. Their chief Fruits are, (beſides Plantains in abundance) Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Melons, (both Musk and Water-melons) Limes, Guava's, Pom⯑granates, Quinces, Cuſtard-Apples, and Papah's, &c.

The Cuſtard-Apple (as we call it) is a Fruit as big as a Pomegranate, and much of the ſame colour. The out-ſide Husk, Shell or Rind, is for ſubſtance and thick⯑neſs between the Shell of a Pomegranate, and the Peel of a Sevil-Orange; ſofter than this, yet more brittle than that. The Coat or Covering is alſo remarkable in that it is beſet round with ſmall regular Knobs or Riſings; and the inſide of the Fruit is full of a white ſoft Pulp, ſweet and very pleaſant, and moſt reſembling a Cuſtard of any thing, both in Colour and Taſt: From whence probably it is called a Cuſtard-Apple by our Engliſh. It has in the mid⯑dle [34] a few ſmall black Stones or Kernels; but no Core, for 'tis all Pulp. The Tree that bears this Fruit is about the bigneſs of a Quince-tree, with long, ſmall, and thick⯑ſet Branches ſpread much abroad: At the Extremity of here and there one of which the Fruit grows upon a Stalk of its own about 9 or 10 Inches long, ſlender and tough, and hanging down with its own weight. A large Tree of this ſort does not bear uſually above 20 or 30 Apples; ſel⯑dom more. This Fruit grows in moſt Countries within the Tropicks. I have ſeen of them (tho' I omitted the Deſcri⯑ption of them before) all over the West-Indies, both Continent and Iſlands; as al⯑ſo in Brazil, and in the East-Indies.

The Papah too is found in all theſe Countries, though I have not hitherto de⯑ſcrib'd it. It is a Fruit about the bigneſs of a Musk-Melon, hollow as that is, and much reſembling it in Shape and Colour, both outſide and inſide: Only in the mid⯑dle, inſtead of flat Kernels, which the Me⯑lons have, theſe have a handful of ſmall blackiſh Seeds, about the bigneſs of Pep⯑per-corns; whoſe Taſte is alſo hot on the Tongue ſomewhat like Pepper. The Fruit it ſelf is ſweet, ſoft and luſcious, when ripe; but while green 'tis hard and un⯑favory: tho' even then being boiled and eaten with Salt-pork or Beef, it ſerves in⯑ſtead [35] of Turnips, and is as much eſteemed. The Papah-Tree is about 10 or 12 Foot high. The Body near the Ground may be a Foot and an half or 2 Foot Diameter; and it grows up tapering to the top. It has no Branches at all, but only large Leaves growing immediately upon Stalks from the Body. The Leaves are of a roundiſh Form and jag'd about the Edges, having their Stalks or Stumps longer or ſhorter as they grow near or further from the top. They begin to ſpring from out of the Body of the Tree at about 6 or 7 Foot heighth from the Ground, the Trunk being bare below: but above that the Leaves grow thicker and larger ſtill to⯑wards its Top, where they are cloſe and broad. The Fruit grows only among the Leaves; and thickeſt among the thickeſt of them; inſomuch that towards the top of the Tree the Papah's ſprings forth from its Body as thick as they can ſtick one by another. But then lower down, where the Leaves are thinner, the Fruit is larger, and of the ſize I have deſcrib'd: And at the Top, where they are thick, they are but ſmall, and no bigger than ordinary Turnips; yet taſted like the reſt.

Their chief Land-Animals are their Bullocks; which are ſaid to be many; tho' they askt us 20 Dollars apiece for them: They have alſo Horſes, Aſſes, and [36] Mules, Deer, Goats, Hogs, and black⯑fac'd long-tail'd Monkeys. Of Fowls they have Cocks and Hens, Ducks, Guinea-Hens, both tame and wild, Parakites, Parrots, Pidgeons, Turtle-Doves, Herons, Hawks, Crab-catchers, Galdens, (a larger ſort of Crab-catchers) Curlew's, &c. Their Fiſh is the ſame as at Mayo and the reſt of theſe Iſlands, and for the moſt part theſe Iſlands have the ſame Beaſts and Birds alſo: But ſome of the Iſles have Paſturage and Employment for ſome particular Beaſts more than other; and the Birds are in⯑courag'd, by Woods for ſhelter, and Maiz and Fruits ſor Food, to flock rather to ſome of the Iſlands (as to this of St. Jago) than to others.

St. Jago Road is one of the worſt that I have been in. There is not clean Ground enough for above 3 Ships; and thoſe alſo muſt lie very near each other. One even of theſe muſt lie cloſe to the Shore, with a Land-faſt there: And that is the beſt for a ſmall Ship. I ſhould not have come in here if I had not been told that it was a good ſecure Place; but I found it ſo much otherways, that I was in pain to be gone. Captain Bareſool, who came to an An⯑chor while I was here, in [...]oul Ground, loſt quickly 2 Anchors; and I had loſt a [37] ſmall one. The Iſland Fogo ſhews its ſelf from this Road very plain, at about 7 or 8 Leagues diſtance; and in the Night we ſaw the Flames of Fire iſſuing from its Top.

CHAP. II.

HAving diſpatch'd my ſmall Affairs at the C. Verd Iſlands, I meditated on the proceſs of my Voyage. I thought it requiſite to touch once more at a cultivated Place in theſe Seas, where my Men might be refreſh'd, and might have a Market wherein to furniſh themſelves with Ne⯑ceſſaries: For deſigning that my next Stretch ſhould be quite to N. Holland, and knowing that after ſo long a Run nothing was to be expected there but freſh Water, if I could meet even with that there, I re⯑ſolved upon putting in firſt at ſome Port of Brazil, and to provide my Self there with whatever I might have further Oc⯑caſion for. Beſide the refreſhing and fur⯑niſhing my Men, I aim'd alſo at the inuring them gradually and by intervals to the Fa⯑tigues that were to be expected in the re⯑mainder of the Voyage, which was to be in a part of the World they were altogether Strangers to; none of them, except two young Men, having ever croſst the Line.

[41] With this Deſign I ſail'd from St. Jago on the 22d of February, with the Winds at E. N. E. and N. E. fair Weather, and a brisk Gale. We ſteered away S. S. E. and S. S. E. half Eaſt, till in the Lat. of 7 deg. 50 min. we met with many Rip⯑lings in the Sea like a Tide or ſtrong Cur⯑rent, which ſetting againſt the Wind caus'd ſuch a Ripling. We continu'd to meet theſe Currents from that Lat. till we came into the Lat. of 3 deg. 22 N. when they ceaſed. During this time we ſaw ſome Boneta's, and Sharks; catching one of theſe. We had the true General Trade-Wind blowing freſh at N. E. till in the Lat. of 4 deg. 40 min. N. when the Wind varied, and we had ſmall Gales, with ſome Tornadoes. We were then to the Eaſt of St. Jago 4 deg. 54 min. when we got into Lat. 3 deg. 2 min. N. (where I ſaid the Ripling ceas'd) and Long. to the Eaſt of St. Jago 5 deg. 2 min. we had the Wind whiffling between the S. by E. and E. by N. ſmall Gales, frequent Calms, very black Clouds, with much Rain. In the Lat. of 3 deg. 8 min. N. and Long. E. from St. Jago 5 deg. 8 min. we had the Wind from the S. S. E. to the N. N. E. faint, and often interrupted with Calms. While we had Calms we had the opportu⯑nity of trying the Current we had met with hitherto, and found that it ſet N. E. [42] by E. half a Knot, which is 12 mile in 24 hours: So that here it ran at the Rate of half a mile an hour, and had been much ſtronger before. The Rains held us by intervals till the Lat. of 1 deg. 0 min. N. with ſmall Gales of Wind between S. S. E. and S. E. by E. and ſometimes calm: Af⯑terwards we had the Wind between the S. & S. S. E. till we croſst the Line, ſmall Winds, Calms, and pretty fair Weather. We ſaw but few Fiſh beſide Porpoſes; but of them a great many, and ſtruck one of them.

It was the 10th day of March, about the time of the Equinox, when we croſst the Equator, having had all along from the Lat. of 4 deg. 40 min. N. where the True Trade-Wind left us, a great ſwell out of the S. E. and but ſmall uncertain Gales, moſtly Southerly, ſo that we crept to the Southward but ſlowly. I kept up againſt theſe as well as I could to the Southward, and when we had now and then a flurry of Wind at E. I ſtill went away due South, purpoſely to get to the Southward as faſt as I could; for while near the Line I expe⯑cted to have but uncertain Winds, fre⯑quent Calms, Rains, Tornadoes, &c. which would not only retard my Courſe, but endanger Sickneſs alſo among my Men: eſpecially thoſe who were ill provided with Cloaths, or were too lazy to ſhift them⯑ſelves [43] when they were drench'd with the Rains. The Heat of the Weather made them careleſs of doing this; but taking a Dram of Brandy, which I gave them when wet, with a Charge to ſhift themſelves, they would however lie down in their Hammocks with their Wet Cloaths; ſo that when they turn'd out they caus'd an ill ſmell where-ever they came, and their Ham⯑mocks would ſtink ſufficiently: that I think the Remedying of this is worth the Care of Commanders that croſs the Line; eſpecially when they are, it may be, a Month or more e'er they get out of the Rains, at ſome times of the Year, as in June, July, or August.

What I have here ſaid about the Cur⯑rents, Winds, Calms, &c. in this Paſſage is chiefly for the farther Illuſtration of what I have heretofore obſerv'd in general about theſe Matters, and eſpecially as to Croſſing the Line, in my Diſcourſe of the Winds, &c. in the Torrid Zone: [See Vol. II. Part 3. p. 5, 6.] Which Obſervations I have had very much confirm'd to me in the Courſe of this Voyage; and I ſhall particularize in ſeveral of the chief of them as they come in my Way. And indeed I think I may ſay this of the Main of the Obſervations in that Treatiſe, that the clear Satisfaction I had about them, and how much I might rely upon them, was a great Eaſe to my [44] Mind during this Vexatious Voyage; wherein the Ignorance, and Obſtinacy withal, of ſome under me, occaſion'd me a great deal of Tronble: tho' they found all along, and were often forc'd to acknow⯑ledge it, that I was ſeldom out in my Con⯑jectures, when I told them uſually before⯑hand what Winds, &c. we ſhould meet with at ſuch or ſuch particular Places we ſhould come at.

Pernambuc was the Port that I deſigned for at my firſt ſetting out from St. Jago; it being a Place moſt proper for my purpoſe, by reaſon of its Situation, lying near the Extremity of C. St. Auguſtine, the Eaſtern⯑moſt Promontory of Brazil; by which means it not only enjoys the greater bene⯑fit of the Sea-breezes, and is conſequently more healthy than other Places to the Southward, but is withal leſs ſubject to the Southerly Coaſting-Trade-winds, that blow half the Year on this Shore; which were now drawing on, and might be troubleſome to me: So that I might both hope to reach ſooneſt Pernambuc, as moſt directly and neareſt in my Run; and might thence alſo more eaſily get away to the Southward than from Bahia de Todos los Santos, or Ria Janeira.

But notwithſtanding theſe Advantages I propos'd to my ſelf in going to Pernambuc, I was ſoon put by that Deſign through the [45] refractorineſs of ſome under me, and the Diſcontents and Backwardneſs of ſome of my Men. For the Calms and Shiftings of Wind which I met with, as I was to expect, in croſſing the Line, made them, who were un⯑acquainted with theſe Matters, almoſt heartleſs as to the perſuit of the Voyage, as thinking we ſhould never be able to weather C. St. Auguſtine: And though I told them that by that time we ſhould get to about three Degrees South of the Line, we ſhould again have a True brisk General Trade-Wind from the North Eaſt, that would carry us to what part of Brazil we pleas'd, yet they would not believe it till they found it ſo. This, with ſome other un⯑foreſeen Accidents, not neceſſary to be mention'd in this place, meeting with the Averſion of my Men to a long unknown Voyage, made me juſtly ap⯑prehenſive of their Revolting, and was a great Trouble and Hindrance to me. So that I was obliged partly to alter my Meaſures, and met with ma⯑ny Difficulties, the Particulars of which I ſhall not trouble the Reader with: But I mention thus much of it in ge⯑neral for my own neceſſary Vindica⯑tion, [46] in my taking ſuch Meaſures ſome⯑times for proſecuting the Voyage as the ſtate of my Ships Crew, rather than my own Judgment and Experience, de⯑termin'd me to. The Diſorders of my Ship made me think at preſent that Pernambuc would not be ſo fit a Place for me; being told that Ships ride there two or three Leagues from the Town, under the Command of no Forts; ſo that whenever I ſhould have been a⯑ſhore it might have been eaſy for my diſcontented Crew to have cut or ſlipt their Cables, and have gone away from me: Many of them diſcovering already an Intention to return to England, and ſome of them declaring openly that they would go no further onwards than Brazil. I alter'd my Courſe therefore, and ſtood away for Bahio de todos los Santos, or the Bay of All Saints, where I hop'd to have the Governor's help, if need ſhould require, for ſecuring my Ship from any ſuch Mutinous Attempt; be⯑ing forc'd to keep my ſelf all the way upon my Guard, and to lie with my Of⯑ficers, ſuch as I could truſt, and with ſmall Arms, upon the Quarter-deck; it ſcarce being ſafe for me to lie in my Cabbin, by Reaſon of the Diſcontents among my Men.

[47] On the 23d of March we ſaw the Land of Brazil; having had thither, from the time when we came into the True Trade-Wind again after croſſing the Line, very fair Weather and brisk Gales, moſtly at E. N. E. The Land we ſaw was about 20 Leagues to the North of Bahia; ſo I coaſt⯑ed along Shore to the Southward. This Coaſt is rather low than high, with Sandy-Bays all along by the Sea.

A little within Land are many very white Spots of Sand, appearing like Snow; and the Coaſt looks very pleaſant, being checker'd with Woods and Savanahs. The Trees in general are not tall; but they are green and flouriſhing. There are ma⯑ny ſmall Houſes by the Sea-ſide, whoſe In⯑habitants are chiefly Fiſhermen. They come off to Sea on Barklogs, made of ſeve⯑ral Logs faſten'd ſide to ſide, that have one or two Maſts with Sails to them. There are two Men in each Barklog, one at either end, having ſmall low Benches, raiſed a little above the Logs, to ſit and fiſh on, and two Baskets hanging up at the Maſt or Maſts; one to put their Pro⯑viſions in, the other for their Fiſh. Many of theſe were a Fiſhing now, and two of them came aboard, of whom I bought ſome Fiſh. In the Afternoon we ſailed by one very remarkable piece of Land, where, on a ſmall pleaſant Hill, there was a [48] Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. See a Sight of ſome parts of this Coaſt [Table III. N^o. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.] and of the Hill the Church ſtands on [Table III. N^o. 1.]

Bahia de todos los Santos lies in Lat. 13 deg. S. It is the moſt conſiderable Town in Brazil, whether in reſpect of the Beauty of its Buildings, its Bulk, or its Trade and Revenue. It has the convenience of a [50] good Harbour that is capable of receiving Ships of the greateſt Burthen: The En⯑trance of which is guarded with a ſtrong Fort ſtanding without the Harbour, call'd St. Antonio: A Sight of which I have gi⯑ven [Table III. N^o. 4.] as it appear'd to us the Afternoon before we came in; and its Lights (which they hang out purpoſe⯑ly for Ships) we ſaw the ſame Night. There are other ſmaller Forts that com⯑mand the Harbour, one of which ſtands on a Rock in the Sea, about half a mile from the Shore. Cloſe by this Fort all Ships muſt paſs that anchor here, and muſt ride alſo within half a mile of it at fartheſt between this and another Fort (that ſtands on a Point at the inner part of the Har⯑bour and is called the Dutch Fort) but muſt ride neareſt to the former, all along againſt the Town: where there is good holding Ground, and leſs expoſed to the Southerly Winds that blow very hard here. They commonly ſet in about April, but blow hardeſt in May, June, July and August: but the Place where the Ships ride is ex⯑poſed to theſe Winds not above 3 Points of the Compaſs.

Beſide theſe there is another Fort front⯑ing the Harbour, and ſtanding on the Hill upon which the Town ſtands. The Town it ſelf conſiſts of about 2000 Houſes; the major part of which cannot be ſeen [51] from the Harbour: but ſo many as appear in ſight, with a great mixture of Trees be⯑tween them, and all placed on a riſing Hill, make a very pleaſant Proſpect; as may be judg'd by the Draught, [Table III. N^o. 5.]

There are in the Town 13 Churches, Chapels, Hoſpitals, Convents, beſide one Nunnery; viz. the Eccleſia Major or Ca⯑thedral, the Jeſuits College, which are the chief, and both in ſight from the Har⯑bour: St. Antonio, Sta. Barbara, both Pa⯑riſh-Churches; the Franciſcans Church, and the Dominicans; and two Convents of Carmelites; a Chapel for Seamen cloſe by the Sea-ſide, where Boats commonly land, and the Seamen go immediately to Prayers; another Chapel for poor People, at the farther end of the ſame Street, which runs along by the Shore; and a third Chapel for Soldiers, at the edge of the Town, remote from the Sea; and an Hoſpital in the middle of the Town. The Nunnery ſtands at the outer-edge of the Town next the Fields, wherein by Report there are 70 Nuns. Here lives an Arch⯑biſhop who has a fine Palace in the Town; and the Governor's Palace is a fair Stone-building, and looks handſome to the Sea, tho' but indifferently furniſh'd with⯑in: both Spaniards and Portugueſe in their Plantations abroad, as I have generally [52] obſerv'd, affecting to have large Houſes; but are little curious about Furniture, ex⯑cept Pictures ſome of them. The Houſes of the Town are 2 or 3 Stories high, the Walls thick and ſtrong, being built with Stone, with a Covering of Pantile; and many of them have Balconies. The prin⯑cipal Streets are large, and all of them pav'd or pitch'd with ſmall Stones. There are alſo Parades in the moſt eminent Places of the Town, and many Gardens, as well within the Town as in the Out-parts of it, wherein are Fruit-trees, Herbs, Salladings and Flowers in great variety, but order'd with no great Care nor Art.

The Governor who reſides here is call'd Don John de Lancaſtario, being deſcended, as they ſay, from our Engliſh Lancaſter Fa⯑mily; and he has a reſpect for our Nation on that account, calling them his Country⯑men. I waited on him ſeveral times and always found him very courteous and civil. Here are about 400 Soldiers in Gariſon. They commonly draw up and exerciſe in a large Parade before the Governor's Houſe; and many of them attend him when he goes abroad. The Soldiers are decently clad in brown Linen, which in theſe hot Countries is ſar better than Woollen; but I never ſaw any clad in Linen but only theſe. Beſide the Soldiers in Pay, he can ſoon have ſome thouſands of Men up in [53] Arms on occaſion. The Magazine is on the Skirts of the Town, on a ſmall riſing between the Nunnery and the Soldiers Church. 'Tis big enough to hold 2 or 3000 Barrels of Powder; but I was told it ſeldom has more than 100, ſometimes but 80. There are always a Band of Soldiers to guard it, and Centinels looking out both Day and Night.

A great many Merchants always reſide at Bahia; for 'tis a Place of great Trade: I found here above 30 great Ships from Europe, with two of the King of Portugal's Ships of War for their Convoy; beſide two Ships that Traded to Africa only, either to Angola, Gamba, or other Places on the Coaſt of Guinea; and abundance of ſmall Craft, that only run to and fro on this Coaſt, carrying Commodities from one part of Brazil to another.

The Merchants that live here are ſaid to be Rich, and to have many Negro Slaves in their Houſes, both of Men and Women. Themſelves are chiefly Portu⯑gueſe, Foreigners having but little Com⯑merce with them; yet here was one Mr. Cock an Engliſh Merchant, a very civil Gentleman and of good Repute. He had a Patent to be our Engliſh Conſul, but did not care to take upon him any Publick Character, becauſe Engliſh Ships ſeldom come hither, here having been none in 11 [54] or 12 years before this time. Here was alſo a Dane, and a French Merchant or two; but all have their Effects tranſported to and from Europe in Portugueſe Ships, none of any other Nation being admitted to Trade hither. There is a Cuſtom-houſe by the Sea-ſide, where all Goods imported or exported are entred. And to prevent Abuſes there are 5 or 6 Boats that take their turns to row about the Harbour, ſearching any Boats they ſuſpect to be run⯑ning of Goods.

The chief Commodities that the Eu⯑ropean Ships bring hither, are Linnen⯑cloaths, both courſe and fine; ſome Wool⯑lens alſo, as Bays, Searges, Perpetuana's, &c. Hats, Stockings, both of Silk and Thread, Bisket-bread, Wheat-flower, Wine (chiefly Port) Oil-Olive, Butter, Cheeſe, &c. and Salt-beef and Pork would there alſo be good Commodities. They bring hither alſo Iron, and all ſorts of Iron-Tools; Pewter-Veſſels of all ſorts, as Diſhes, Plates, Spoons, &c. Looking⯑glaſſes, Beads, and other Toys; and the Ships that touch at St. Jago bring thence, as I ſaid, Cotton cloath, which is after⯑wards ſent to Angola.

The European Ships carry from hence Sugar, Tobacco, either in Roll or Snuff, never in Leaf, that I know of: Theſe are the Staple Commodities. Beſides which, [55] here are Dye-woods, as Fuſtick, &c. with Woods for other uſes, as ſpeckled Wood, Brazil, &c. They alſo carry home raw Hides, Tallow, Train-Oil of Whales, &c. Here are alſo kept tame Monkeys, Parrots, Parakites, &c. which the Seamen carry home.

The Sugar of this Country is much bet⯑ter than that which we bring home from our Plantations: for all the Sugar that is made here is clay'd, which makes it whiter and finer than our Muſcovada, as we call our unrefin'd Sugar. Our Planters ſeldom refine any with Clay, unleſs ſometimes a little to ſend home as Preſents for their Friends in England. Their way of doing it is by taking ſome of the whiteſt Clay and mixing it with Water, 'till 'tis like Cream. With this they fill up the Pans of Sugar, that are ſunk 2 or 3 Inches below the Brim by the draining of the Moloſſes out of it: Firſt ſcraping off the thin hard Cruſt of the Sugar that lies at the top, and would hinder the Water of the Clay from ſoak⯑ing through the Sugar of the Pan. The refining is made by this Percolation. For 10 or 12 days time that the Clayiſh Li⯑quor lies ſoaking down the Pan, the white Water whitens the Sugar as it paſſes thro' it; and the groſs Body of the Clay it ſelf grows hard on the top, and may be taken off at pleaſure; when ſcraping off with a [56] Knife the very upper part of the Sugar, which will be a little ſullied, that which is underneath will be White almoſt to the bottom: and ſuch as is called Brazil Sugar is thus Whitened. When I was here this Sugar was ſold for 50 s. per 100 lb. and the Bottoms of the Pots, which is very courſe Sugar, for about 20 s. per 100 lb. both ſorts being then ſcarce; for here was not enough to lade the Ships, and therefore ſome of them were to lie here till the next Sea⯑ſon.

The European Ships commonly arrive here in February or March, and they have generally quick Paſſages; finding at that time of the Year brisk Gales to bring them to the Line, little Trouble, then, in croſ⯑ſing it, and brisk E. N. E. Winds after⯑wards to bring them hither. They com⯑monly return from hence about the latter end of May, or in June. 'Twas ſaid when I was here that the Ships would ſail hence the 20th day of May; and therefore they were all very buſy, ſome in taking in their Goods, others in Careening and making themſelves ready. The Ships that come hither uſually Careen at their firſt coming; here being a Hulk belonging to the King for that purpoſe. This Hulk is under the charge of the Superintendent I ſpoke of, who has a certain Sum of Mony for every Ship that Careens by her. He alſo pro⯑vides [57] Firing and other Neceſſaries for that purpoſe: and the Ships do commonly hire of the Merchants here each 2 Cables to moor by all the time they lie here, and ſo ſave their own Hempen Cables; for theſe are made of a ſort of Hair, that grows on a certain kind of Trees, hanging down from the Top of their Bodies, and is very like the black Coyre in the East-In⯑dies, if not the ſame. Theſe Cables are ſtrong and laſting: And ſo much for the European Ships.

The Ships that uſe the Guinea-Trade are ſmall Veſſels in compariſon of the for⯑mer. They carry out from hence Rum, Sugar, the Cotton-cloaths of St. Jago, Beads, &c. and bring in return, Gold, Ivory, and Slaves; making very good re⯑turns.

The ſmall Craft that belong to this Town are chiefly imployed in carrying European Goods from Bahia, the Center of the Braſilian Trade, to the other Places on this Coaſt; bringing back hither Sugar, Tobacco, &c. They are ſailed chiefly with Negro-Slaves; and about Chriſtmas theſe are moſtly imployed in Whale-kill⯑ing: for about that time of the Year a ſort Whales, as they call them, are very thick on this Coaſt. They come in alſo into the Harbours and inland Lakes, where the Seamen go out and kill them. The Fat of [58] them is boyled to Oyl; the Lean is eaten by the Slaves and poor People: And I was told by one that had frequently eaten of it that the Fleſh was very ſweet and whole⯑ſome. Theſe are ſaid to be but ſmall Whales: yet here are ſo many, and ſo eaſily kill'd, that they get a great deal of Mony by it. Thoſe that ſtrike them buy their Licence for it of the King: And I was informed that he receives 30000 Dol⯑lars per Annum for this Fiſhery. All the ſmall Veſſels that uſe this Coaſting Traf⯑fick are built here; and ſo are ſome Men of War alſo for the King'sService. There was one a Building when I was here, a Ship of 40 or 50 Guns: And the Timber of this Country is very good and proper for this purpoſe. I was told it was very ſtrong, and more durable than any we have in Europe: and they have enough of it. As for their Ships that uſe the European Trade, ſome of them that I ſaw there were Eng⯑liſh built, taken from us by the French dur⯑ing the late War, and ſold by them to the Portugeſe.

Beſides Merchants and others that Trade by Sea from this Port, here are other pret⯑ty Wealthy Men, and ſeveral Artificers and Trades-men of moſt ſorts, who by Labour and Induſtry maintain themſelves very well; eſpecially ſuch as can arrive at the purchaſe of a Negro-Slave or two. [59] And indeed, excepting People of the low⯑eſt degree of all, here are ſcarce any but what keep Slaves in their Houſes. The Richer Sort, beſides the Slaves of both Sexes whom they keep for ſervile Uſes in their Houſes, have Men-ſlaves who wait on them abroad, for State; either run⯑ning by their Horſes-ſides when they ride out, or to carry them to and fro on their Shoulders in the Town when they make ſhort Viſits near home. Every Gen⯑tleman or Merchant is provided with Things neceſſary for this ſort of Carriage. The main Thing is a pretty large Cotton Hammock of the West-India Faſhion, but moſtly dyed Blue, with large Fringes of the ſame, hanging down on each ſide. This is carry'd on the Negro's Shoulders by the help of a Bambo about 12 or 14 Foot long, to which the Hammock is hung; and a Covering comes over the Pole, hanging down on each ſide like a Curtain: So that the Perſon ſo carry'd cannot be ſeen unleſs he pleaſes; but may either ly down, hav⯑ing Pillows for his Head; or may ſit up by being a little ſupported with theſe Pil⯑lows, and by letting both his Legs hang out over one ſide of the Hammock. When he hath a mind to be ſeen he puts by his Curtain, and ſalutes every one of his Ac⯑quaintance whom he meets in the Streets: for they take a piece of Pride in greeting [60] one another from their Hammocks, and will hold long Conferences thus in the Streets: But then their two Slaves who carry the Hammock have each a ſtrong well-made Staff, with a fine Iron Fork at the upper end, and a ſharp Iron below, like the Reſt for a Musket, which they ſtick faſt in the Ground, and let the Pole or Bambo of the Hammock reſt upon them, till their Maſters Buſineſs or the Complement is over. There is ſcarce a Man of any faſhion, eſpecially a Woman, will paſs the Streets but ſo carried in a Hammock. The chief Mechanick Traders here, are Smiths, Hatters, Shoemakers, Tanners, Sawyers, Carpenters, Coopers, &c. Here are alſo Taylors, Butchers, &c. which laſt kill the Bullocks very dexte⯑rouſly, ſticking them at one Blow with a ſharp-pointed Knife in the Nape of the Neck, having firſt drawn them cloſe to a Rail; but they dreſs them very ſlovenly. It being Lent when I came hither there was no buying any Fleſh till Eaſter-Eve, when a great number of Bullocks were kill'd at once in the Slaughter-houſes with⯑in the Town, Men, Women and Children flocking thither with great Joy to buy, and a multitude of Dogs, almoſt ſtarv'd, following them; for whom the Meat ſeem'd fitteſt, it was ſo Lean. All theſe Trades-men buy Negro's, and train [61] them up to their ſeveral Imployments, which is a great help to them: and they having ſo frequent Trade to Angola, and other parts of Guinea, they have a conſtant ſupply of Blacks both for their Plantations and Town. Theſe Slaves are very uſeful in this Place for Carriage, as Porters; for as here is a great Trade by Sea, and the Landing-place is at the foot of a Hill, too ſteep for drawing with Carts, ſo there is great need of Slaves to carry Goods up in⯑to the Town, eſpecially for the inferiour ſort: but the Merchants have alſo the Convenience of a great Crane that goes with Ropes or Pullees, one end of which goes up while the other goes down. The Houſe in which this Crane is ſtands on the Brow of the Hill towards the Sea, hanging over the Precipice: and there are Planks ſet ſhelving againſt the Bank from thence to the Bottom, againſt which the Goods lean or ſlide as they are hoiſted up or let down. The Negro-Slaves in this Town are ſo nu⯑merous, that they make up the greateſt part or bulk of the Inhabitants: Every Houſe, as I ſaid, having ſome, both Men and Women, of them. Many of the Por⯑tugueſe, who are Batchelors, keep of theſe black Women for Miſſes, tho' they know the danger they are in of being poyſon'd by them, if ever they give them any occa⯑ſion of Jealouſy. A Gentleman of my Ac⯑quaintance, [62] who had been familiar with his Cook-maid, lay under ſome ſuch Apprehenſions from her when I was there. Theſe Slaves alſo of either Sex will eaſily be engaged to do any ſort of Miſchief; even to Murder, if they are hired to do it, eſpecially in the Night: for which Reaſon, I kept my Men on board as much as I could; for one of the French King's Ships being here had ſeveral Men murder'd by them in the Night, as I was credibly in⯑form'd.

Having given this account of the Town of Bahia, I ſhall next ſay ſomewhat of the Country. There is a Salt-water Lake runs 40 Leagues, as I was told, up the Country, N. W. from the Sea, leaving the Town and Dutch Fort on the Star⯑board fide. The Country all round a⯑bout is for the moſt part a pretty flat e⯑ven Ground, not high, nor yet very low: It is well watered with Rivers, Brooks and Springs, neither wants it for good Harbours, Navigable Creeks, and good Bays for Ships to ride in. The Soil in general is good, naturally producing very latge Trees of divers ſorts, and fit for any uſes. The Savannahs alſo are loaden with Graſs, Herbs, and many ſorts of ſmaller Vegetables; and being cultivated, produce any thing that is proper for thoſe hot Countrys, as Sugar-Canes, Cotton, Indi⯑co, [63] Tobacco, Maiz, Fruit-Trees of ſeve⯑ral kinds, and Eatable Roots of all ſorts. Of the ſeveral kinds of Trees that are here, I ſhall give an account of ſome, as I had it partly from an Inhabitant of Bahia, and partly from my knowledge of them other⯑wiſe, viz. Sapiera, Vermiatico, Comeſſe⯑rie, Guitteba, Serrie, as they were pronounc'd to me, three ſorts of Mangrove, ſpeckled Wood, Fuſtick, Cotton-Trees of three ſorts, &c. together with Fruit-Trees of divers ſorts that grow wild, beſide ſuch as are planted.

Of Timber-Trees, the Sapiera is ſaid to be large and tall; it is very good Timber, and is made uſe of in building of Houſes; ſo is the Vermiatico, a tall ſtreight-bodied Tree, of which they make Plank 2 Foot broad, and they alſo make Canoa's with it. Comeſſerie and Guitteba are chieſly u⯑ſed in building Ships; theſe are as much eſteemed here, as Oaks are in England, and they ſay either ſort is harder and more durable than Oak. The Serrie is a ſort of Tree much like Elm, very durable in water. Here are alſo all the three ſorts of Mangrove Trees, viz. the Red, the White, and the Black, which I have de⯑ſcribed [Vol. I. p. 54.] The Bark of the Red Mangrove, is here uſed for Tanning of Leather, and they have great Tan-pits for it. The Black Mangrove grows lar⯑ger [64] here than in the Weſt-Indies, and of it they make good Plank. The White Mangrove is larger and tougher than in the Weſt-Indies; of theſe they make Maſts and Yards for Barks.

There grow here Wild or Baſtard Co⯑co Nut Trees, neither ſo large nor ſo tall as the common ones in the Eaſt or Weſt-Indies. They bear Nuts as the others, but not a quarter ſo big as the right Coco-Nuts. The ſhell is full of Kernel, with⯑out any hollow Place or Water in it; and the Kernel is ſweet and wholeſome, but very hard both for the Teeth and for Di⯑geſtion. Theſe Nuts are in much eſteem for making Beads for Pater-noſter's, Boles of Tobacco-pipes, and other Toys: and every ſmall Shop here has a great many of them to ſell. At the top of theſe Baſtard Coco-trees, among the Branches, there grows a ſort of long black Thread like Horſe-hair, but much longer, which by the Portugueſe is called Treſabo. Of this they make Cables which are very ſervice⯑able, ſtrong and laſting; for they will not rot as Cables made of Hemp, tho' they ly expoſed both to Wet and Heat. Theſe are the Cables which I ſaid they keep in their Harbours here, to let to hire to European Ships, and reſemble the Coyre-Cables.

Here are three ſorts of Cotton Trees that bear Silk-cotton. One ſort is ſuch as I [65] have formerly deſcribed, [Vol. I. p. 165.] by the Name of the Cotton-tree. The other two ſorts I never ſaw any where but here. The Trees of theſe latter ſorts are but ſmall in compariſon of the former, which are reckon'd the biggeſt in all the West-India Woods; yet are however of a good bigneſs and heighth. One of theſe laſt ſorts is not ſo full of Branches as the other of them; neither do they produce their Fruit the ſame time of the Year: for one ſort had its Fruit juſt ripe, and was ſhedding its Leaves while the other ſort was yet green, and its Fruit ſmall and growing, having but newly done bloſſom⯑ing; the Tree being as full of young Fruit as an Apple-Tree ordinarily in England. Theſe laſt yield very large Pods, about 6 inches long, and as big as a Man's Arm. It is ripe in September and October; then the Pod opens, and the Cotton burſts out in a great Lump as big as a Man's Head. They gather theſe Pods before they open: otherways it would fly all away. It opens as well after 'tis gathered; and then they take out the Cotton, and preſerve it to ſill Pillows and Bolſters, for which uſe 'tis very much eſteemed: but 'tis fit for no⯑thing elſe, being ſo ſhort that it cannot be ſpun. 'Tis of a tawney Colour; and the Seeds are black, very round, and as big as a white Pea. The other ſort is ripe [66] in March or April. The Fruit or Pod is like a large Apple, and very round. The out-ſide Shell is as thick as the top of ones Finger. Within this there is a very thin whitiſh Bag or Skin which incloſeth the Cotton. When the Cotton-Apple is ripe the outer thick green Shell ſplits it ſelf into 5 equal parts from Stemb to Tail, and drops off, leaving the Cotton hanging upon the Stemb, only pent up in its fine Bag. A day or two afterwards the Cotton ſwells by the heat of the Sun, breaks the Bag and burſts out, as big as a Man's Head: And then as the Wind blows 'tis by degrees driven away, a little at a time, out of the Bag that ſtill hangs upon the Stemb, and is ſcatter'd about the Fields; the Bag ſoon following the Cotton, and the Stemb the Bag. Here is alſo a little of the right Weſt-India Cotton Shrub; but none of the Cotton is exported, nor do they make much Cloth of it.

This Country produces great variety of fine Fruits, as very good Oranges of 3 or 4 ſorts; (eſpecially one ſort of China Oran⯑ges;) Limes in abundance, Pomgranets, Pomecitrons, Plantains, Bonano's, right Coco-nuts, Guava's, Coco-plumbs, (call'd here Munſheroo's) Wild-Grapes, ſuch as I have deſcrib'd [Vol. II. Part 2. p. 46.] beſide ſuch Grapes as grow in Europe Here are alſo Hog-plumbs, Cuſtard-Ap⯑ples, [67] Sour-ſops, Caſhews, Papah's (called here Mamoons) Jennipah's (called here Jenni-papah's) Manchineel-Apples and Man⯑go's. Mango's are yet but rare here: I ſaw none of them but in the Jeſuit's Gar⯑den, which has a great many fine Fruits, and ſome Cinamon-trees. Theſe, both of them, were firſt brought from the East-Indies, and they thrive here very well: So do Pumplemuſſes, brought alſo from thence; and both China and Sevil Oranges are here very plentiful as well as good.

The Sour-ſop (as we call it) is a large Fruit as big as a Man's Head, of a long or oval Shape, and of a green Colour; but one ſide is Yellowiſh when ripe. The out⯑ſide Rind or Coat is pretty thick, and very rough, with ſmall ſharp Knobs; the in⯑ſide is full of ſpungy Pulp, within which alſo are many black Seeds or Kernels, in ſhape and bigneſs like a Pumkin-ſeed. The Pulp is very juicy, of a pleaſant Taſte, and wholeſome. You ſuck the Juice out of the Pulp, and ſo ſpit it out. The Tree or Shrub that bears this Fruit grows about 10 or 12 Foot high, with a ſmall ſhort Body; the Branches growing pretty ſtrait up; for I did never ſee any of them ſpread abroad. The Twigs are ſlender and tough; and ſo is the Stemb of the Fruit. This Fruit grows alſo both in the East and VVest-Indies.

[68] The Caſhew is a Fruit as big as a Pippin, pretty long, and bigger near the Stemb than at the other end, growing tapering. The Rind is ſmooth and thin, of a red and yellow Colour. The Seed of this Fruit grows at the end of it; 'tis of an Olive Colour ſhaped like a Bean, and about the ſame bigneſs, but not altogether ſo flat. The Tree is as big as an Apple tree, with Branches not thick, yet ſpreading off. The Boughs are groſs, the Leaves broad and round, and in ſubſtance pretty thick. This Fruit is ſoft and ſpongy when ripe, and ſo full of Juice that in biting it the Juice will run out on both ſides of ones Mouths. It is very pleaſant, and gratefully rough on the Tongue; and is accounted a very wholeſome Fruit. This grows both in the East and West Indies, where I have ſeen and eaten of it.

The Jenipah or Jenipapah is a ſort of Fruit of the Calabaſh or Gourd-kind. It is about the bigneſs of a Duck-Egg, and ſomewhat of an Oval Shape; and is of a grey Colour. The Shell is not altogether ſo thick nor hard as a Calabaſh: 'Tis full of whitiſh Pulp mixt with ſmall flat Seeds; and both Pulp and Seeds muſt be taken in⯑to the Mouth, where ſucking out the Pulp you ſpit out Seeds. It is of a ſharp and pleaſing Taſte, and is very innocent. The Tree that bears it is much like an Aſh, [69] ſtrait-bodied, and of a good heighth; clean from Limbs till near the top, where there branches forth a ſmall Head. The Rind is of a pale grey, and ſo is the Fruit. We us'd of this Tree to make Helves or Handles for Axes (for which it is very pro⯑per) in the Bay of Campeachy; where I have ſeen of them, and no where elſe but here.

Beſide theſe, here are many ſorts of Fruits which I have not met with any where but here; as Ariſah's, Mericaſah's, Petango's, &c. Ariſah's are an excellent Fruit, not much bigger than a large Cherry; ſhaped like a Catherine-Pear, being ſmall at the Stemb, and ſwelling bigger towards the end. They are of a greeniſh colour, and have ſmall Seeds as big as Muſtard-Seeds. They are ſomewhat tart, yet pleaſant, and ve⯑ry wholſom, and may be eaten by ſick People.

Mericaſah's, are an excellent Fruit, of which there are two ſorts; one growing on a ſmall Tree or Shrub, which is count⯑ed the beſt; the other growing on a kind of Shrub like a Vine, which they plant about Arbours to make a ſhade, having many broad Leaves. The Fruit is as big as a ſmall Orange, round and green. When they are ripe they are ſoft and fit to eat; full of white pulp mixt thick with little black Seeds, and there is no ſeparating one from the other, till they are in your [70] Mouth; when you ſuck in the white Pulp and ſpit out the Stones. They are tart, pleaſant, and very wholſome.

Petango's are a ſmall red Fruit, that grow alſo on ſmall Trees, and are as big as Cherries, but not ſo Globular, having one flat ſide, and alſo 5 or 6 ſmall protule⯑rant Ridges. 'Tis a very pleaſant tart Fruit, and has a pretty large flattiſh Stone in the middle.

Petumbo's, are a yellow Fruit (grow⯑ing on a ſhrub like a Vine) bigger than Cherries, with a pretty large Stone: Theſe are ſweet, but rough in the Mouth.

Mungaroo's, are a Fruit as big as Cher⯑ries, red on one ſide and white on the o⯑ther ſide: They are ſaid to be full of ſmall Seeds, which are commonly ſwallowed in eating them.

Muckiſhaw's, are ſaid to be a Fruit as big as Crab-Apples, growing on large Trees. They have alſo ſmall Seeds in the mid⯑dle, and are well taſted.

Ingwa's, are a Fruit like the Locuſt-Fruit, 4 Inches long, and one broad. They grow on high Trees.

Otee, is a Fruit as big as a large Coco-Nut. It hath a Husk on the outſide, and a large Stone within, and is a accounted a very fine Fruit.

[71] Muſteran-de-ova's, are a round Fruit as big as large Hazel-Nuts, cover'd with thin brittle ſhells of a blackiſh colour: They have a ſmall Stone in the middle, incloſed within a black pulpy ſubſtance, which is of a pleaſant taſte. The outſide ſhell is chewed with the Fruit, and ſpit out with the Stone, when the pulp is ſuck'd from them. The Tree that bears this Fruit is tall, large, and very hard Wood. I have not ſeen any of theſe five laſt named Fruits, but had them thus deſcribed to me by an Iriſh Inhabitant of Bahia; tho' as to this laſt, I am apt to believe, I may have both ſeen and eaten of them in Achin in Su⯑matra.

Palm-Berries (called here Dendees) grow plentifully about Bahia; the largeſt are as big as Wall-nuts; they grow in bunches on the top of the Body of the Tree, a⯑mong the Roots of the Branches or Leaves, as all Fruits of the Palm kind do. Theſe are the ſame kind of Berries or Nuts as thoſe they make the Palm-Oyl with on the Coaſt of Guinea, where they abound: And I was told that they make Oyl with them here alſo. They ſometimes roaſt and eat them; but when I had one roaſted to prove it, I did not like it.

Phyſick-Nuts, as our Seamen call them, are called here Pineon; and Agnus Caſtus is called here Carrepat: Theſe both grow [72] here: ſo do Mendibees, a Fruit like Phyſick-Nuts. They ſcorch them in a Pan over the fire before they eat them.

Here are alſo great plenty of Cabbage-Trees, and other Fruits, which I did not get information about, and which I had not the opportunity of ſeeing; becauſe this was not the Seaſon, it being our Spring, and conſequently their Autumn, when their beſt Fruits were gone, tho' ſome were left. However I ſaw abundance of wild Berries in the Woods and Field, but I could not learn their Names or Nature.

They have withal good plenty of ground Fruit, as Callavances, Pine-Apples, Pum⯑kins, Water-Melons, Musk-Melons, Cu⯑cumbers; and Roots, as Yams, Potato's Caſſava's, &c. Garden Herbs alſo good ſtore; as Cabbages, Turnips, Onions, Leeks, and abundance of other Salading, and for the Pot. Drugs of ſeveral ſorts, viz. Saſſafras, Snake-Root, &c. Beſide the Woods I mentioned for Dying, and other Uſes, as Fuſtick, Speckled-wood, &c.

I brought home with me from hence a good number of Plants, dried between the leaves of Books; of ſome of the choiceſt of which, that are not ſpoil'd, I may give a Specimen at the End of the Book.

Here are ſaid to be great plenty and va⯑riety of Wild-Fowl, viz. Yemma's, Maccaw's (which are called here Jackoo's, and are a larger ſort of Parrots, and ſcarcer) Par⯑rots, [73] Parakites, Flamingo's, Carrion-Crows, Chattering-Crows, Cockrecoes, Bill-Birds finely painted, Correſoes, Doves, Pigeons, Jenetees, Clocking-Hens, Crabcatchers, Galdens, Currecoo's, Moſcovy Ducks, common Ducks, Widgeons, Teal, Cur⯑lews, Men of War Birds, Booby's, Nod⯑dy's, Pelicans, &c.

The Yemma is bigger than a Swan, grey⯑feathered, with a long thick ſharp-point⯑ed Bill.

The Carrion-Crow and Chattering-Crows, are called here Mackeraw's, and are like thoſe I deſcribed in the Weſt-Indies, [Vol. II. Part II. p. 67.] The Bill of the Chattering-Crow is black, and the Upper-Bill is round, bending downwards like a Hawks-Bill, riſing up in a ridge almoſt ſemicircular, and very ſharp, both at the Ridge or Convexity, and at the Point or Extremity: The Lower-Bill is flat and ſhuts even with it. I was told by a Por⯑tegueze here, that their Negro-Wenches make Love-Potions with theſe Birds. And the Portugueſe care not to let them have any of theſe Birds, to keep them from that Superſtition: As I found one Afternoon when I was in the Fields with a Padre and another, who ſhot two of them, and hid them, as they ſaid, for that reaſon. They are not good Food, but their Bills are reckoned a good Antidote againſt Poi⯑ſon.

[74] The Bill-Birds are ſo called by the En⯑gliſh, from their monſtrous Bills, which are as big as their Bodies. I ſaw none of theſe Birds here, but ſaw ſeveral of the Breaſts flea'd off and dried, for the beau⯑ty of them; the Feathers were curiouſly colour'd with red, yellow, and Orange-colour.

The Curreſo's (called here Mackeraw's) are ſuch as are in the Bay of Campeachy [Vol. 2. Part 2. p. 67.]

Turtle-Doves are in great plenty here; and two ſorts of Wild Pigeons; the one ſort blackiſh, the other a light grey: The blackiſh or dark grey are the bigger, be⯑ing as large as our Wood-Queſts, or Wood-Pigeons in England. Both ſorts are very good Meat; and are in ſuch plenty from May till September, that a Man may ſhoot 8 or 10 Dozen in ſeveral Shots at one ſtanding, in a cloſe miſty Morning, when they come to ſeed on Berries that grow in the Woods.

The Jenetee is a Bird as big as a Lark, with blackiſh Feathers, and yellow Legs and Feet. 'Tis accounted very wholſom Food.

Clocking-Hens, are much like the Crab⯑catchers, which I have deſcribed [Vol. II. Part 2. p. 70.] but the Legs are not alto⯑gether ſo long. They keep always in ſwampy wet places, tho' their Claws are [75] like Land-Fowl's Claws. They make a Noiſe or Cluck like our Brood-Hens, or Dunghil-Hens, when they have Chickens, and for that reaſon they are called by the Engliſh Clocking Hens. There are many of them in the Bay of Campeachy (tho' I omitted to ſpeak of them there) and elſe⯑where in the Weſt-Indies. There are both here and there four ſorts of theſe long⯑leg'd Fowls, near a-kin to each other, as ſo many Sub-Species of the ſame Kind; viz. Crab catchers, Clocking-Hens, Gal⯑dens (which three are in ſhape and co⯑lour like Herons in England, but leſs; the Galden, the biggeſt of the three, the Crab⯑catcher the ſmalleſt;) and a fourth ſort which are black, but ſhaped like the other, having long Legs and ſhort Tails; theſe are about the bigneſs of Crab-catchers, and feed as they do.

Currecoos, are Water Fowls, as big as pretty large Chickens, of a bluiſh colour, with ſhort Legs and Tail; they feed al⯑ſo in ſwampy Ground, and are very good Meat. I have not ſeen of them elſe⯑where.

The Wild-Ducks here are ſaid to be of two ſorts, the Muſcovy, and the com⯑mon-Ducks. In the wet Seaſon here are abundance of them, but in the dry time but few. Wigeon and Teal alſo are ſaid to be in great plenty here in the wet Sea⯑ſon.

[76] To the Southward of Bahia there are al⯑ſo Oſtridges in great plenty, tho', 'tis ſaid, they are not ſo large as thoſe of Africa: They are found chiefly in the Southern Parts of Braſil, eſpecially among the large Savanahs near the River of Plate; and from thence further South towards the Streights of Magellan.

As for Tame Fowl at Bahia, the chief beſide their Ducks, are Dunghil-Fowls, oſ which they have two ſorts; one ſort much of the ſize of our Cocks and Hens; the other very large: and the Feathers of theſe laſt are a long time coming forth; ſo that you ſee them very naked when half grown; but when they are full grown and well feathered, they appear very large Fowls, as indeed they are; neither do they want for price; for they are ſold at Bahia ſor half a Crown or three Shillings apiece, juſt as they are brought firſt to Market out of the Countrey, when they are ſo lean as to be ſcarce fit to Eat.

The Land Animals here are Horſes, black Cattle, Sheep, Goats, Rabbits, Hogs, Leopards, Tigers, Foxes, Mon⯑keys, Pecary (a ſort of wild Hogs, called here Pica) Armadillo, Alligaters, Guano's (called Quittee) Lizards, Serpents, Toads, Frogs, and a ſort of Amphibious Crea⯑tures called by the Portugueſe Cuchora's de agua, in Engliſh Water-Dogs.

[77] The Leopards and Tigers of this Coun⯑try are ſaid to be large and very fierce: But here on the Coaſt they are either de⯑ſtroyed, or driven back towards the heart of the Country; and therefore are ſeldom found but in the Borders and Out-planta⯑tions, where they oftentimes do Miſchief. Here are three or four ſorts of Monkeys, of different Sizes and Colours. One ſort is very large; and another ſort is very ſmall: Theſe laſt are ugly in Shape and Feature, and have a ſtrong Scent of Musk.

Here are ſeveral ſorts of Serpents, many of them vaſtly great, and moſt of them very venomous: As the Rattle-ſnake for one: and for Venome, a ſmall Green Snake is bad enough, no bigger than the Stemb of a Tobacco-pipe, and about 18 Inches long, very common here.

They have here alſo the Amphisbaena, or Two-headed Snake, of a grey Colour, mixt with blackiſh Stripes, whoſe Bite is reckon'd to be incurable. 'Tis ſaid to be blind, tho' it has two ſmall Specks in each Head like Eyes: but whether it ſees or not I cannot tell. They ſay it lives like a Mole, moſtly under Ground; and that when it is found above Ground it is eaſily kill'd, becauſe it moves but ſlowly: Nei⯑ther is its Sight (if it hath any) ſo good as to diſcern any one that comes near to Kill [78] as few of theſe Creatures fly at a Man, or hurt him but when he comes in their Way. 'Tis about 14 Inches long, and about the bigneſs of the inner joint of a Man's mid⯑dle Finger; being of one and the ſame bigneſs from one end to the other, with a Head at each end, (as they ſaid; for I cannot vouch it, for one I had was cut ſhort at one end) and both alike in ſhape and bigneſs; and 'tis ſaid to move with either Head formoſt, indifferently; whence 'tis called by the Portugueze, Cobra de dos Cabeſas, the Snake with two Heads.

The ſmall black Snake is a very veno⯑mous Creature.

There is alſo a grey Snake, with red and brown Spots all over its Back. 'Tis as big as a Man's Arm, and about 3 Foot long, and is ſaid to be venomous. I ſaw one of theſe.

Here are two ſorts of very large Snakes or Serpents: One of 'em a Land-ſnake, the other a Water-ſnake. The Land-ſnake is of a grey colour, and about 18 or 20 Foot long: Not very Venomous, but Ravenous. I was promiſed the ſight of one of their Skins, but wanted opportu⯑nity.

The Water-ſnake is ſaid to be near 30 Foot long. Theſe live wholly in the Wa⯑ter, either in large Rivers, or great Lakes, and prey upon any Creature that comes [79] within their reach, be it Man or Beaſt. They draw their Prey to them with their Tails: for when they ſee any thing on the Banks of the River or Lake where they lurk, they ſwing about their Tails 10 or 12 Foot over the Bank; and whatever ſtands within their Sweep is ſnatcht with great Violence into the River, and drown⯑ed by them. Nay 'tis reported very cre⯑dibly that if they ſee only a ſhade of any Animal at all on the Water, they will flouriſh their Tails to bring in the Man or Beaſt whoſe ſhade they ſee, and are often⯑times too ſucceſsful in it. Wherefore Men that have Buſineſs near any place where theſe Water-Monſters are ſuſpected to lurk, are always provided with a Gun, which they often fire, and that ſcares them away, or keeps them quiet. They are ſaid to have great Heads, and ſtrong Teeth a⯑bout 6 Inches long. I was told by an Iriſh Man who lived here, that his Wives Fa⯑ther was very near being taken by one of them about the time of my firſt Arrival here, when his Father was with him up in the Country: for the Beaſt flouriſht his Tail for him, but came not nigh enough by a yard or two; however it ſcared him ſufficiently.

The Amphibious Creatures here which I ſaid are called by the Portugueſe Cuchora's de Agua, or Water-dogs, are ſaid to be as [80] big as ſmall Maſtives, and are all hairy and ſhaggy from Head to Tail. They have 4 ſhort Legs, a pretty long Head and ſhort Tail; and are of a blackiſh colour. They live in freſh Water-ponds, and of⯑tentimes come aſhore and Sun themſelves; but retire to the Water if aſſaulted. They are eaten, and ſaid to be good Food. Se⯑veral of theſe Creatures which I have now ſpoken of I have not ſeen, but inform'd my ſelf about them while I was here at Bahia, from ſober and ſenſible Perſons a⯑mong the Inhabitants, among whom I met with ſome that could ſpeak Engliſh.

In the Sea upon this Coaſt there is great ſtore and diverſity of Fiſh, viz. Jew-fiſh, for which there is a great Market at Bahia in Lent: Tarpom's, Mullets, Groopers, Snooks, Gar-fiſh (called here Goolion's), Goraſſes, Barrama's, Coquinda's, Caval⯑lie's, Cuchora's (or Dog-fiſh) Conger-Eeles, Herrings (as I was told) the Ser⯑rew, the Olio de Boy, (I write and ſpell them juſt as they were named to me) Whales, &c.

Here is alſo Shell-fiſh (tho' in leſs plenty about Bahia than on other parts of the Coaſt) viz. Lobſters, Craw-fiſh, Shrimps, Crabs, Oyſters of the common ſort, Conchs, Wilks, Cockles, Muſcles, Perri⯑winkles, &c. Here are three ſorts of Sea-Turtle, viz. Hawksbill, Loggerhead, and [81] Green: but none of them are in any eſteem, neither Spaniards nor Portugueſe loving them: Nay they have a great An⯑tipathy againſt them, and would much ra⯑ther eat a Porpoſe, tho' our Engliſh count the Green Turtle very extraordinary Food. The Reaſon that is commonly given in the West-Indies for the Spaniards not caring to eat of them, is the fear they have leſt be⯑ing uſually foul-bodied, and many of them pox'd (lying, as they do, ſo promiſcuouſ⯑ly with their Negrines and other She⯑ſlaves) they ſhould break out loathſomely like Lepers; which this ſort of Food, 'tis ſaid, does much incline Men to do, ſearch⯑ing the Body, and driving out any ſuch groſs Humors: for which cauſe many of our Engliſh Valetudinarians have gone from Jamaica (tho' there they have alſo Turtle) to the I. Caimanes, at the Laying⯑time, to live wholly upon Turtle that then abound there; purpoſely to have their Bodies ſcour'd by this Food, and their Di⯑ſtempers driven out: and have been ſaid to have found many of them good Succeſs in it. But this by the way. The Hawkſ⯑bill-Turtle on this Coaſt of Brazil is moſt ſought after of any, for its Shell, which by Report of thoſe I have convers'd with at Bahia, is the cleareſt and beſt-clouded Tortoiſe-ſhell in the World. I had ſome of it ſhewn me, which was indeed as good [82] as I ever ſaw. They get a pretty deal of it in ſome Parts on this Coaſt; but 'tis ve⯑ry dear.

Beſides this Port of Bahia de todos los San⯑tos, there are two more principal Ports on Brazil, where European Ships Trade, viz. Pernambuc and Ria Janeira; and I was told that there go as many Ships to each of theſe Places as to Bahia, and two Men of War to each Place for their Convoys. Of the other Ports in this Country none is of greater Note than that of St. Paul's, where they gather much Gold; but the Inhabitants are ſaid to be a ſort of Banditti, or looſe People that live under no Govern⯑ment: but their Gold brings them all ſorts of Commodities that they need, as Cloths, Arms, Ammunition, &c. The Town is ſaid to be large and ſtrong.

CHAP. III.

MY ſtay here at Bahia was about a Month: during which time the Vice Roy of Goa came hither from thence in a great Ship, ſaid to be richly laden with all ſorts of India Goods; but ſhe did not break Bulk here, being bound home for Lisbon: only the Vice-Roy intended to re⯑freſh his Men (of whom he had loſt many, and moſt of the reſt were very ſickly, having been 4 Months in their Voyage hi⯑ther) and ſo to take in Water, and depart for Europe, in Company with the other [85] Portugueſe Ships thither Bound; who had Orders to be ready to Sail by the twentieth of May. He deſir'd me to car⯑ry a Letter for him, directed to his Suc⯑ceſſor, the new Vice-Roy of Goa: Which I did; ſending it thither afterwards by Captain Hammond, whom I found near the Cape of Good Hope. The Refreſh⯑ing my Men, and taking in Water, was the main alſo of my Buſineſs here; be⯑ſide the having the better opportuni⯑ty to compoſe the Diſorders among my Crew: Which, as I have before relat⯑ed, were grown to ſo great a Heighth, that they could not without great Dif⯑ficulty be appeaſed: However, finding Opportunity, during my ſtay in this Place, to allay in ſome meaſure the Ferment that had been raiſed among my Men, I now ſet my ſelf to provide for the car⯑rying on of my Voyage with more Heart than before, and put all Hands to work, in order to it, as faſt as the backwardneſs of my Men would per⯑mit; who ſhew'd continually their un⯑willingneſs to proceed farther. Beſides, their Heads were generally fill'd with ſtrange Notions of Southerly Winds that were now ſetting in (and there had been already ſome Flurries of them) [86] which, as they ſurmiz'd, would hinder any farther Attempts of going on to the Southward, ſo long as they ſhould laſt.

The Winds begin to ſhift here in April and September, and the Seaſons of the Year (the Dry and the Wet) alter with them. In April the Southerly Winds make their entrance on this Coaſt, bringing in the Wet Seaſon, with violent Tornado's, Thunder and Light⯑ning, and much Rain. In September the other Coaſting Trade, at Eaſt North Eaſt comes in, and clears the Sky, bring⯑ing fair Weather. This, as to the change of Wind, is what I have obſerv'd Vol. II. Part 3. p. 19. but as to the change of Weather accompanying it ſo exactly here at Bahia, this is a particular Excep⯑tion to what I have Experienc'd in all other Places of South Latitudes that I have been in between the Tropicks, or thoſe I have heard of; for there the Dry Seaſons ſets in, in April, and the Wet about October or November, ſooner or later (as I have ſaid that they are, in South Latitudes, the Reverſe of the Seaſons, or Weather, in the ſame Months in N. La⯑titudes Vol. II. Part 3. p. 77.) whereas on this Coaſt of Brazil, the Wet Seaſon [87] comes in in April, at the ſame time that it doth in N. Latitudes, and the Dry (as I have ſaid here) in September; the Rains here not laſting ſo far in the year as in o⯑ther Places: for in September the Weather is uſually ſo fair, that in the latter part of that Month they begin to cut their Su⯑gar-Canes here, as I was told; for I en⯑quired particularly about the Seaſons: Though this, as to the Seaſon of cut⯑ting of Canes, which I was now aſ⯑ſur'd to be in September, agrees not very well with what I was formerly told [Vol. II. Part 3. p. 82.] that in Brazil they cut the Canes in July. And ſo, as to what is ſaid a little lower in the ſame Page, that in managing their Canes they are not confin'd to the Seaſons, this ought to have been expreſs'd only of Planting them; for they never cut them but in the Dry Seaſon.

But to return to the Southerly Winds, which came in (as I expected they would) while I was here: Theſe daunted my Ship's Company very much, tho' I had told them they were to look for them: But they being ignorant as to what I told them farther, that theſe were only Coaſt⯑ing-Winds, ſweeping the Shore to about 40 or 50 Leagues in breadth from it; and imagining that they had blown ſo all the [...]ea over, between America and Africa; [88] and being confirm'd in this their Opinion by the Portugueſe Pilots of the European Ships, with whom ſeveral of my Officers converſed much, and who were them⯑ſelves as ignorant that theſe were only Coaſting Trade-Winds (themſelves going away before them, in their return home⯑wards, till they croſs the Line, and ſo ha⯑ving no experience of the Breadth of them) being thus poſſeſs'd with a Conceit that we could not Sail from hence till September; this made them ſtill the more remiſs in their Duties, and very liſtleſs to the get⯑ting Things in a readineſs for our Depar⯑ture. However I was the more diligent my Self to have the Ship ſcrub'd, and to ſend my Water-Casks aſhore to get them trim'd, my Beer being now out. I went alſo to the Governor to get my Water fill'd; ſor here being but one Watering-place (and the Water running low, now at the end of the Dry Seaſon) it was al⯑ways ſo crouded with the European Ships Boats, who were preparing to be gone, that my Men could ſeldom come nigh it, till the Governor very kindly ſent an Of⯑ficer to clear the Water-place for my Men, and to ſtay there till my Wates-Casks were all full, whom I ſatisfied ſor his Pains. Here I alſo got Aboard 9 or 10 Tun of Ballaſt, and made my Boatſwain fit the [89] Rigging that was amiſs: and I enquired alſo of my particular Officers whoſe Bu⯑ſineſs it was, whether they wanted any Stores, eſpecially Pitch and Tar; for that here I wou'd ſupply my ſelf before I pro⯑ceeded any farther: but they ſay they had enough, tho' it did not afterwards prove ſo.

I commonly went aſhore every day, either upon Buſineſs, or to recreate my ſelf in the Fields, which were very plea⯑ſant, and the more for a ſhower of Rain now and then, that uſhers in the Wet Sea⯑ſon. Several ſorts of good Fruits were al⯑ſo ſtill remaining, eſpecially Oranges, which were in ſuch plenty, that I and all my Company ſtock'd our ſelves for our Voyage with them, and they did us a great kindneſs; and we took in alſo a good quantity of Rum and Sugar: But for Fowls, they being here lean and dear, I was glad I had ſtockt my ſelf at St. Jago. But by the little care my Officers took for freſh Proviſions, one might conclude, they did not think of going much farther. Be⯑ſides, I had like to have been imbroiled with the Clergy here (of the Inquiſition, as I ſuppoſe) and ſo my Voyage might have been hindred. What was ſaid to them of me, by ſome of my Company that went aſhore, I know not; but I was aſſur'd by a Merchant there, that if they got me into their Clutches (and [90] it ſeems, when I was laſt aſhore they had narrowly watch'd me) the Governor him⯑ſelf could not releaſe me. Beſides I might either be murther'd in the Streets, as he ſent me word, or Poyſoned, if I came a⯑ſhore any more; and therefore he adviſed me to ſtay aboard. Indeed I had now no further Buſineſs aſhore but to take leave of the Governor, and therefore took his Ad⯑vice.

Our Stay here was till the 23d of April. I would have gone before if I could ſooner have fitted my ſelf; but was now earneſt to be gone, becauſe this Harbour lies open to the S. and S. S. W. which are raging Winds here, and now was the Seaſon for them. We had had two or three Touches of them; and one pretty ſevere: and the Ships ride there ſo near each other, that if a Cable ſhould fail, or an Anchor ſtart, you are inſtantly aboard of one Ship or other: and I was more afraid of being diſ⯑abled here in Harbour by theſe bluſtring Winds, than diſcouraged by them, as my People were, from proſecuting the Voy⯑age; for at preſent I even wiſh'd for a brisk Southerly Wind as ſoon as I ſhould be once well out of the Harbour, to ſet me the ſooner into the True General Trade-Wind.

The Tide of Flood being ſpent, and having a fine Land-Breez on the 23d. in [91] the Morning, I went away from the An⯑choring-place before 'twas light; and then lay by till Day-light that we might ſee the better how to go out of the Harbour. I had a Pilot belonging to Mr. Cock who went out with me, to whom I gave three Dollars; but I found I could as well have gone out my Self, by the Soundings I made at coming in. The Wind was E. by N. and fair Weather. By 10 a Clock I was got paſt all danger, and then ſent away my Pilot. At 12 Cape Salvadore bore N. di⯑ſtant 6 Leagues, and we had the Winds between the E. by N. and S. E. a conſi⯑derable time, ſo that we kept along near the Shore, commonly in ſight of it. The Southerly Blaſts had now left us again; for they come at firſt in ſhort Flurries, and ſhift to other Points (for 10 or 12 days ſometimes) before they are quite ſet in: And we had uncertain Winds, between Sea and Land-Breezes, and the Coaſting-Trade, which was its ſelf unſetled.

The Eaſterly-Winds at preſent made me doubt I ſhould not weather a great Shoal which lies in Lat. between 18 deg. and 19 deg. S. and runs a great way into the Sea, directly from the Land, Eaſterly. Indeed the Weather was fair (and conti⯑nued ſo a good while) ſo that I might the better avoid any Danger from it: and if the Wind came to the Southward I knew [92] I could ſtretch off to Sea; ſo that I jogg'd on couragiouſly. The 27th of April we ſaw a ſmall Brigantine under the Shore plying to the Southward. We alſo ſaw many Men of War-birds and Boobies, and abundance of Albicore-Fiſh. Having ſtill fair Weather, ſmall Gales, and ſome Calms, I had the opportunity of trying the Current, which I found to ſet ſome⯑times Northerly and ſometimes Southerly: and therefore knew I was ſtill within the Verge of the Tides. Being now in the Lat. of the Abrohlo Shoals, which I expected to meet with, I ſounded, and had Water leſſening from 40 to 33. and ſo to 25 Fa⯑thom: but then it roſe again to 33, 35, 37. &c. all Coral Rocks. Whilſt we were on this Shoal (which we croſst towards the further part of it from Land, where it lay deep, and ſo was not dangerous) we caught a great many Fiſh with Hook and Line; and by evening Amplitude we had 6 deg. 38 min. Eaſt Variation. This was the 27th of April; we were then in Lat. 18 deg. 13 min. S. and Eaſt Longitude from Cape Salvadore 31 min. On the 29th, being then in Lat. 18 deg. 39 min. S. we had ſmall Gales from the W. N. W. to the W. S. W. often ſhifting. The 30th we had the Winds from W. to S. S. E. Squals and Rain: and we ſaw ſome Dol⯑phins and other Fiſh about us. We were [93] now out of ſight of Land, and had been ſo 4 or 5 Days: but the Wind's now hang⯑ing in the South was an apparent Sign that we were ſtill too nigh the Shore to receive the True General Eaſt-Trade; as the Eaſterly Winds we had before ſhew'd that we were too far off the Land to have the Benefit of the Coaſting South-Trade: and the faintneſs of both theſe Winds, and their often ſhifting from the S. S. W. to the S. E. with Squalls, Rain and ſmall Gales, were a Confirmation of our being between the Verge of the S. Coaſting-Trade, and that of the True Trade; which is here, regularly, S. E.

The third of May being in Lat. 20 deg. 00 min. and Merid. diſtance Weſt from Cape Salvadore 234 Miles, the Variation was 7 deg. 00 min. We ſaw no Fowl but Shear-waters, as our Sea-men call them, being a ſmall black Fowl that ſweep the Water as they fly, and are much in the Seas that lie without either of the Tropicks: they are not eaten. We caught 3 ſmall Sharks, each 6 Foot 4 Inches long; and they were very good Food for us. The next day we caught 3 more Sharks of the ſame ſize, and we eat them alſo, eſteem⯑ing them as good Fiſh boil'd and preſst, and then ſtew'd with Vinegar and Pep⯑per.

The Petrel is a Bird not much unlike a Swallow, but ſmaller, and with a ſhorter Tail. 'Tis all over black, except a white Spot on the Rump. They fly ſweeping like Swallows, and very near the Water. They are not ſo often ſeen in fair Weather; being Foul-weather Birds, as our Seamen call them, and preſaging a Storm when they come about a Ship; who for that Reaſon don't love to ſee them. In a Storm they will hover cloſe under the Ship's Stern, in the Wake of the Ship (as 'tis call'd) or the ſmoothneſs which the Ship's paſſing has made on the Sea: and there as they fly (gently then) they pat the Water alter⯑nately with their Feet, as if they walkt upon it; tho' ſtill upon the Wing. And from hence the Seamen give them the name of Petrels, in alluſion to St. Peter's walking upon the Lake of Genneſareth.

We alſo ſaw many Bunches of Sea⯑weeds in the Lat. of 39. 32. and by Judg⯑ment, near the Meridian of the Iſland Tri⯑ſtian d'Aconha: and then we had about 2 d. 20 min. Eaſt Variation; which was now again decreaſing as we ran to the Eaſtward, all near the Meridian of Aſcention; where we found little or no Variation: But from thence, as we ran farther to the Eaſt, our Variation increaſed Weſterly.

[98] Two days before I made the Cape of G. Hope, my Variation was 7 deg. 58 min. Weſt. I was then in 43 deg. 27 min. Eaſt Longit. from C. Salvador, being in Lat. 35 deg. 30 min. this was the firſt of June. The ſecond of June I ſaw a large black Fowl, with a whitiſh flat Bill, fly by us; and took great notice of it, becauſe in the East-India Waggoner, or Pilot-book, there is mention made of large Fowls, as big as Ravens, with white flat Bills and black Feathers, that fly not above 30 Leagues from the Cape, and are lookt on as a Sign of ones being near it. My Reck⯑oning made me then think my ſelf above 90 Leagues from the Cape, according to the Longitude which the Cape hath in the com⯑mon Sea-Charts: ſo that I was in ſome doubt, whether theſe were the right Fowls ſpoken of in the Waggoner; or whether thoſe Fowls might not fly farther off Shore than is there mentioned; or whe⯑ther, as it prov'd, I might not be nearer the Cape than I reckoned my ſelf to be: for I found, ſoon after, that I was not then above 25 or 30 Leagues at moſt from the Cape. Whether the fault were in the Charts laying down the Cape too much to the Eaſt from Brazil, or were rather in our Reckoning, I could not tell: but our Reckonings are liable to ſuch Uncertain⯑ties from Steerage, Log, Currents, Half [99] Minute-Glaſſes, and ſometimes want of Care, as in ſo long a Run cauſe often a dif⯑ference of many Leagues in the whole Ac⯑count.

Moſt of my Men that kept Journals im⯑puted it to the Half-Minute-glaſſes; and indeed we had not a good Glaſs in the Ship beſide the Half-watch or Two Hour-Glaſ⯑ſes. As for our Half-Minute-Glaſſes we tried them all at ſeveral times, and we found thoſe that we had us'd from Brazil as much too ſhort, as others we had us'd before were too long: which might well make great Errors in thoſe ſeveral Reck⯑onings. A Ship ought therefore to have its Glaſſes very exact: and beſides, an ex⯑traordinary Care ought to be uſed in heav⯑ing the Log, for fear of giving too much Stray-Line in a moderate Gale; and alſo to ſtop quickly in a brisk Gale; for when a Ship runs 8, 9, or 10 Knots, half a Knot or a Knot is ſoon run out, and not heeded: But to prevent danger, when a Man thinks himſelf near Land, the beſt way is to look out betimes, and lie by in the Night: for a Commander may err eaſily himſelf; be⯑ſide the Errors of thoſe under him, tho' never ſo carefully eyed.

Another thing that ſtumbled me here was the Variation, which, at this time, by the laſt Amplitude I had I found to be but [...] deg. 58 min. W. whereas the Variation [100] at the Cape (from which I found my ſelf not 30 Leagues diſtant) was then com⯑puted, and truly, about 11 Deg. or more: And yet a while after this, when I was got 10 Leagues to the Eaſtward of the Cape, I found the Variation but 10 Deg. 40 Min. W. whereas it ſhould have been rather more than at the Cape. Theſe Things, I con⯑feſs, did puzzle me: neither was I fully ſatisfied as to the Exactneſs of the taking the Variation at Sea: For in a great Sea, which we often meet with, the Compaſs will traverſe with the motion of the Ship; beſides the Ship may and will deviate ſome⯑what in Steering, even by the beſt Helmſ⯑men: And then when you come to take an Azimuth, there is often ſome difference be⯑tween him that looks at the Compaſs, and the Man that takes the Altitude heighth of the Sun; and a ſmall Error in each, if the Error of both ſhould be one way, will make it wide of any great Exactneſs. But what was moſt ſhocking to me, I found that the Variation did not always increaſe or decreaſe in proportion to the Degrees of Longitude Eaſt or Weſt; as I had a No⯑tion they might do to a certain Number of Degrees of Variation Eaſt or Weſt, at ſuch or ſuch particular Meridians. But finding in this Voyage that the Difference of Variation did not bear a regular pro⯑portion to the difference of Longitude, I [101] was much pleas'd to ſee it thus Obſerv'd in a Scheme ſhewn me after my Return home, wherein are repreſented the ſeveral Vari⯑ations in the Atlantick Sea, on both ſides the Equator; and there, the Line of no Variation in that Sea is not a Meridian Line, but goes very oblique, as do thoſe alſo which ſhew the Increaſe of Variation on each ſide of it. In that Draught there is ſo large an Advance made as well to⯑wards the Accounting for thoſe ſeemingly Irregular Increaſes and Decreaſes of Vari⯑ation towards the S. E. Coaſt of America, as towards the fixing a general Scheme or Syſtem of the Variation every where, which would be of ſuch great Uſe in Na⯑vigation, that I cannot but hope that the Ingenious Author, Capt. Halley, who to his profound Skill in all Theories of theſe kinds, hath added and is adding continu⯑ally Perſonal Experiments, will e'er long oblige the World with a fuller Diſcovery of the Courſe of the Variation, which hath hitherto been a Secret. For my part I pro⯑feſs my ſelf unqualified for offering at any thing of a General Scheme; but ſince Matter of Fact, and whatever increaſes the Hiſtory of the Variation, may be of uſe towards the ſetling or confirming the Theory of it, I ſhall here once for all in⯑ſert a Table of all the Variations I obſerv'd beyond the Equator in this Voyage, both [102] in going out, and returning back; and what Errors there may be in it, I ſhall leave to be Corrected by the Obſervations of Others.

[108] But to return from this Digreſſion: Having fair Weather, and the Winds hang⯑ing Southerly, I jog'd on to the Eaſtward, to make the Cape. On the third of June we ſaw a Sail to Leeward of us, ſhewing Engliſh Colours. I bore away to ſpeak with her, and found her to be the Antelope of London, commanded by Captain Ham⯑mond, and bound for the Bay of Bengal in the Service of the New-Eaſt-India Compa⯑ny. There were many Paſſengers aboard, going to ſettle there under Sir Edward Lit⯑tleton, who was going Chief thither: I went aboard, and was known by Sir Ed⯑ward, and Mr. Hedges, and kindly received and treated by them and the Commander; who had been afraid of us before, tho' I had ſent one of my Officers aboard. They had been in at the Cape, and came from thence the Day before, having ſtockt them⯑ſelves with Refreſhments. They told me that they were by Reckoning, 60 Miles to the Weſt of the Cape. While I was aboard them, a fine ſmall Weſterly Wind ſprang up; therefore I ſhortned my ſtay with them, becauſe I did not deſign to go in to the Cape. When I took leave I was preſented with half a Mutton, 12 Cabbages, 12 Pum⯑kins, 6 Pound of Butter, 6 Couple of Stockfiſh, and a quantity of Parſnips; ſending them ſome Oatmeal, which they wanted.

[109] From my firſt ſetting out from England, I did not deſign to touch at the Cape; and that was one Reaſon why I touch'd at Bra⯑zil, that there I might refreſh my Men, and prepare them for a long Run to New Holland. We had not yet ſeen the Land; but about 2 in the Afternoon we ſaw the Cape-Land bearing Eaſt, at above 16 Leagues diſtance: And Captain Hammond being alſo bound to double the Cape, we jog'd on together this Afternoon and the next Day, and had ſeveral fair Sights of it; which may be ſeen [Table III. No. 6. 7. 8.]

To proceed, having ſtill a Weſterly Wind, I jog'd on in company with the Antelope, till Sunday June the 4th at 4 in the Afternoon, when we parted; they ſteering away for the Eaſt-Indies, and I keeping an E. S. E. Courſe, the better to make my way for New Holland: For tho' New Holland lies North-Eaſterly from the Cape, yet all Ships bound towards that Coaſt, or the Streights of Sundy, ought to keep for a while in the ſame Parallel, or in a Lat. between 35 and 40. at leaſt a little to the S. of the Eaſt, that they may continue in a variable Winds way; and not venture too ſoon to ſtand ſo far to the North, as to be within the verge of the Trade-Wind, which will put them by their Eaſterly Courſe. The Wind increaſed upon us; but [110] we had yet ſight of the Antelope, and of the Land too, till Tueſday the 6th of June: And then we ſaw alſo by us an inumerable Company of Fowls of divers ſorts; ſo that we lookt about to ſee if there were not another dead Whale, but ſaw none.

The Night before, the Sun ſet in a black Cloud, which appeared juſt like Land; and the Clouds above it were gilded of a dark red Colour. And on the Tueſday, as the Sun drew near the Horizon, the Clouds were gilded very prettily to the Eye, tho' at the ſame time my Mind dreaded the Conſe⯑quences of it. When the Sun was now not above 2 deg. high, it entered into a dark ſmoaky-coloured Cloud that lay parallel with the Horizon, from whence preſently ſeem'd to iſſue many dusky blackiſh Beams. The Sky was at this time covered with ſmall hard Clouds (as we call ſuch as lie ſcattering about, not likely to Rain) very thick one by another; and ſuch of them as lay next to the Bank of Clouds at the Horizon, were of a pure Gold colour to 3 or 4 deg. high above the Bank: From theſe to about 10 deg. high they were redder, and very bright; above them they were of a darker Colour ſtill, to about 60 or 70 deg. high; where the Clouds began to be of their common Colour. I took the more particu⯑lar Notice of all this, becauſe I have gene⯑rally obſerved ſuch colour'd Clouds to ap⯑pear [111] before an approaching Storm: And this being Winter here, and the time for bad Weather, I expected and provided for a violent Blaſt of Wind, by riffing our Top⯑ſails, and giving a ſtrict charge to my Of⯑ficers to hand them or take them in, if the Wind ſhould grow ſtronger. The Wind was now at W. N. W. a very brisk Gale. About 12 a Clock at Night we had a pale whitiſh Glare in the N. W. which was another Sign, and intimated the Storm to be near at hand; and the Wind increaſing upon it, we preſently handed our Topſails, furled the Mainſail, and went away only with our Foreſail. Before 2 in the Morn⯑ing it came on very fierce, and we kept right before Wind and Sea, the Wind ſtill increaſing: But the Ship was very govern⯑able, and Steer'd incomparably well. At 8 in the Morning we ſettled our Fore-Yard, lowering it 4 or 5 Foot, and we ran very ſwiftly; eſpecially when the Squals of Rain or Hail, from a black Cloud, came over head, for then it blew exceſſive hard. Theſe, tho' they did not laſt long, yet came very thick and faſt one after another. The Sea alſo ran very high: But we running ſo violently before Wind and Sea, we Shipt little or no Water; tho' a little waſht into our upper Deck-Ports; and with it a Scuttle or Cuttle-Fiſh was caſt upon the Carriage of a Gun.

[112] The Wind blew extraordinary hard all Wedneſday, the 7th of June, but abated of its fierceneſs before Night: Yet it continu⯑ed a brisk Gale till about the 16th, and ſtill a moderate one till the 19th Day; by which time we had run about 600 Leagues: For the moſt part of which time the Wind was in ſome point of the Weſt, viz. from the W. N. W. to the S. by W. It blew hard⯑eſt when at W. or between the W. and S. W. but after it veered more Southerly the foul Weather broke up: This I obſerved at other times alſo in theſe Seas, that when the Storms at Weſt veered to the South⯑ward they grew leſs; and that when the Wind came to the E. of the S. we had ſtill ſmaller Gales, Calms, and fair Wea⯑ther. As for the Weſterly Winds on that ſide the Cape, we like them never the worſe for being violent, for they drive us the faſter to the Eaſtward; and are therefore the only Winds coveted by thoſe who ſail towards ſuch parts of the Eaſt-Indies, as lie South of the Equator; as Timor, Java, and Sumatra; and by the Ships bound for China, or any other that are to paſs through the Streights of Sundy. Thoſe Ships having once paſt the Cape, keep commonly pretty far Southerly, on purpoſe to meet with theſe Weſt Winds, which in the Winter Seaſon of theſe Climates they ſoon meet with; for then the Winds are generally Weſterly at [113] the Cape, and eſpecially to the Southward of it: But in their Summer Months they get to the Southward of 40 deg. uſually e'er they meet with the Weſterly Winds. I was not at this time in a higher Lat. than 36 deg. 40 min. and oftentimes was more Northerly, altering my Latitude often as Winds and Weather requir'd; for in ſuch long Runs 'tis beſt to ſhape ones Courſe ac⯑cording to the Winds. And if in Steering to the Eaſt, we ſhould be obliged to bear a little to the N. or S. of it, 'tis no great matter; for 'tis but Sailing 2 or 3 Points from the Wind, when 'tis either Norther⯑ly or Southerly; and this not only eaſeth the Ship from ſtraining, but ſhortens the way more than if a Ship was kept cloſe on a Wind, as ſome Men are fond of doing.

The 19th of June we were in Lat. 34 deg. 17 min. S. and Long. from the Cape 39 deg. 24 min. E. and had ſmall Gales and Calms. The Winds were at N. E. by E. and continued in ſome part of the E. till the 27th Day. When it having been ſome time at N. N. E. it came about at N. and then to the W. of the N. and continu⯑ed in the Weſt-board (between the N. N. W. and S. S. W.) till the 4th of July; in which time we ran 782 Miles; then the Winds came about again to the Eaſt, we reckoning our ſelves to be in a Meridian 1100 L. Eaſt of that of the Cape; and having fair Weather ſounded, but had no Ground.

[114] We met with little of Remark in this Voyage, beſides being accompanied with Fowles all the way, eſpecially Pintado-Birds, and ſeeing now and then a Whale: But as we drew nigher the Coaſt of New-Holland, we ſaw frequently 3 or 4 Whales together. When we were about 90 Leagues from the Land we began to ſee Sea-weeds, all of one ſort; and as we drew nigher the Shore we ſaw them more fre⯑quently. At about 30 Leagues diſtance we began to ſee ſome Scutle-bones floating on the Water; and drawing ſtill nigher the Land we ſaw greater quantities of them.

July the 25th being in Lat. 26 deg. 14 min. S. and Longitude E. from the C. of G. Hope 85 deg. 52 min. we ſaw a large Gar⯑fiſh leap 4 times by us, which ſeemed to be as big as a Porpoſe. It was now very fair Weather, and the Sea was full of a ſort of very ſmall Graſs or Moſs, which as it floated in the Water ſeemed to have been ſome Spawn of Fiſh; and there was among it ſome ſmall Fry. The next Day the Sea was full of ſmall round things like Pearl, ſome as big as white Peas; they were very Clear and Tranſparent, and upon cruſhing any of them a drop of Water would come forth: The Skin that contained the Water was ſo thin that it was but juſt deſeernable. Some Weeds ſwam by us, ſo that we did not doubt but we ſhould quickly ſee Land. [115] On the 27th alſo, ſome Weeds ſwam by us, and the Birds that had flown along with us all the way almoſt from Brazil, now left us, except only 2 or 3 Shear-waters. On the 28th we ſaw many Weeds ſwim by us, and ſome Whales, blowing. On the 29th we had dark cloudy Weather, with much Thunder, Lightning, and vio⯑lent Rains in the Morning: But in the E⯑vening it grew fair. We ſaw this Day a Scutle-bone ſwim by us, and ſome of our young Men a Seal, as it ſhould ſeem by their Deſcription of its Head. I ſaw alſo ſome Boneta's, and ſome Skipjacks, a Fiſh about 8 Inches long, broad and ſizable, not much unlike a Roach; which our Sea⯑men call ſo from their leaping about.

The 30th of July, being ſtill nearer the Land, we ſaw abundance of Scutle-bones and Sea-weed, more Tokens that we were not far from it; and ſaw alſo a ſort of Fowls the like of which we had not ſeen in the whole Voyage, all the other Fowls ha⯑ving now left us. Theſe were as big as Lapwings; of a grey Colour, black about their Eyes, with red ſharp Bills, long Wings, their Tails long and forked like Swallows; and they flew flapping their Wings like Lapwings. In the Afternoon we met with a Ripling like a Tide or Cur⯑rent, or the Water of ſome Shole or Over⯑fal; but were paſt it before we could ſound. [116] The Birds laſt mention'd and this were further Signs of Land. In the Evening we had fair Weather, and a ſmall Gale at Weſt. At 8 a Clock we ſounded again; but had no Ground.

About the Lat. of 26 deg. S. we ſaw an Opening, and ran in, hoping to find a Harbour there: but when we came to its Mouth, which was about two Leagues wide, we ſaw Rocks and foul Ground within, and therefore ſtood out again: There we had 20 Fathom-water within two mile of the Shore. The Land every where appear'd pretty low, flat and even; but with ſteep Cliffs to the Sea; and when we came near it there were no Trees, Shrubs or Graſs to be ſeen. The Sound⯑ings in the Lat. of 26 deg. S. from about 8 or 9 Leagues off till you come within a League of the Shore, are generally about 40 Fathom; differing but little, ſeldom above three or four Fathom. But the [119] Lead brings up very different ſorts of Sand, ſome courſe, ſome fine; and of ſe⯑veral Colours, as Yellow, White, Grey, Brown, Bluiſh and Reddiſh.

When I ſaw there was no Harbour here, nor good Anchoring, I ſtood off to Sea a⯑gain, in the Evening of the ſecond of Au⯑gust, fearing a Storm on a Lee-ſhore, in a place where there was no ſhelter, and de⯑ſiring at leaſt to have Sea-Room: For the Clouds began to grow thick in the Weſt⯑ern-board, and the Wind was already there, and began to blow freſh almoſt upon the Shore; which at this Place lies along N. N. W. and S. S. E. By Nine a Clock at Night we had got a pretty good Offin; but the Wind ſtill increaſing, I took in my Main Top-ſail, being able to carry no more Sail than two Courſes and the Mizen. At two in the Morning, Aug. 3. it blew very hard, and the Sea was much raiſed; ſo that I furled all my Sails but my Main-ſail. Tho' the Wind blew ſo hard, we had yet pretty clear Weather till Noon: But then the whole Sky was blackned with thick Clouds, and we had ſome Rain, which would laſt a quarter of an hour at a time, and then it would blow very fierce while the Squals of Rain were over our Heads; but as ſoon as they were gone the Wind was by much abated, the ſtreſs of the Storm being over. We ſound⯑ed [120] ſeveral times, but had no Ground till 8 a Clock Aug. the 4th. in the Evening; and then had 60 Fathom-water, Coral⯑ground. At Ten we had 56 Fathom fine Sand. At Twelve we had 55 Fathom, fine Sand, of a pale, bluiſh Colour. It was now pretty moderate Weather; yet I made no Sail till Morning: but then, the Wind veering about to the S. W. I made Sail and ſtood to the North: And at 11 a Clock the next day, Aug. 5. we ſaw Land again, at about 10 Leagues di⯑ſtance. This Noon we were in Lat. 25 deg. 30 min. and in the Afternoon our Cook died, an Old Man, who had been ſick a great while, being infirm before we came out of England.

The 6th of August in the Morning we ſaw an Opening in the Land, and we ran in to it and anchored in ſeven and a half Fathom-water, 2 miles from the Shore, clean Sand. It was ſomewhat difficult getting in here, by reaſon of many Shoals we met with: But I ſent my Boat ſound⯑ing before me. The Mouth of this Sound, which I call'd Shark's Bay, lies in about 25 deg. S. Lat. and our Reckoning made its Longitude from the C. of Good Hope to be about 87 Degrees; which is leſs by 195 Leagues than is uſually laid down in our common Draughts, if our Reckoning was right, and our Glaſſes did not deceive [121] us. As ſoon as I came to anchor in this Bay (of which I have given a Plan, Table IV. N^o. 6.) I ſent my Boat aſhore to ſeek for freſh Water: But in the Evening my Men returned, having found none. The next morning I went aſhore my ſelf, carrying Pick-axes and Shovels with me, to dig for Water; and Axes to cut Wood. We tried in ſeveral places for Water, but finding none after ſeveral Trials, nor in ſeveral miles compaſs, we left any farther ſearch for it, and ſpending the reſt of the day in cutting Wood, we went aboard at Night.

The Land is of an indifferent heighth, ſo that it may be ſeen 9 or 10 Leagues off. It appears at a diſtance very even; but as you come nigher you find there are many gentle Riſings, tho' none ſteep nor high. 'Tis all a ſteep Shore againſt the open Sea: but in this Bay or Sound we were now in, the Land is low by the Sea-ſide, ri⯑ſing gradually in within the Land. The Mould is Sand by the Sea-ſide, producing a large ſort of Sampier, which bears a white Flower. Farther in, the Mould is reddiſh, a ſort of Sand producing ſome Graſs, Plants, and Shrubs. The Graſs grows in great Tufts, as big as a Buſhel, here and there a Tuft: being intermix'd with much Heath, much of the kind we have growing on our Commons in Eng⯑land. [122] Of Trees or Shrubs here are divers ſorts; but none above ten Foot high: Their Bodies about 3 Foot about, and 5 or 6 Foot high before you come to the Branches, which are buſhy and compos'd of ſmall Twigs there ſpreading abroad, tho' thick ſet, and full of Leaves; which were moſtly long and narrow. The Co⯑lour of the Leaves was on one ſide Whi⯑tiſh, and on the other Green: and the Bark of the Trees was generally of the ſame Colour with the Leaves, of a pale Green. Some of theſe Trees were ſweet⯑ſcented, and reddiſh within the Bark, like Saſſafras, but redder. Moſt of the Trees and Shrubs had at this time either Bloſ⯑ſoms or Berries on them. The Bloſſoms of the different ſort of Trees were of ſeveral Colours, as Red, White, Yellow, &c. but moſtly Blue: and theſe generally ſmelt very ſweet and fragrant, as did ſome alſo of the reſt. There were alſo beſide ſome Plants, Herbs, and tall Flowers, ſome ve⯑ry ſmall Flowers, growing on the Ground, that were ſweet and beautiful, and for the moſt part unlike any I had ſeen elſe⯑where.

The Land-Animals that we ſaw here were only a ſort of Raccoons, different from thoſe of the West-Indies, chiefly as to their Legs; for theſe have very ſhort fore Legs; but go Jumping upon them as the others do, and like them are very good Meat:) and a ſort of Guano's, of the ſame ſhape and ſize with other Guano's, deſcrib'd [Vol. I. p. 57.] but differing from them in three remarkable Particu⯑lars: For theſe had a larger and uglier Head; and had no Tail: And at the Rump, inſtead of the Tail there, they had a ſtump of a Tail, which appear'd like another Head; but not really ſuch, being without Mouth or Eyes: Yet this Crea⯑ture ſeem'd by this means to have a Head at each end; and, which may be reckon'd a fourth difference, the Legs alſo ſeem'd all four of them to be Fore-legs, being all a⯑like in ſhape and length, and ſeeming by [124] the Joints and Bending to be made as if they were to go indifferently either Head or Tail foremoſt. They were ſpeckled black and yellow like Toads, and had Scales or Knobs on their Backs like thoſe of Crocodiles, plated on to the Skin, or ſtuck into it, as part of the Skin. They are ve⯑ry ſlow. in motion; and when a Man comes nigh them they will ſtand ſtill and hiſs, not endeavouring to get away. Their Livers are alſo ſpotted black and yellow: and the Body when opened hath a very unſavory Smell. I did never ſee ſuch ugly Creatures any where but here. The Guano's I have obſerv'd to be very good Meat: and I have often eaten of them with pleaſure: But tho' I have eaten of Snakes, Crocodiles and Allegators, and many Creatures that look frightfully e⯑nough, and there are but few I ſhould have been afraid to eat of if preſt by Hun⯑ger, yet I think my Stomach would ſcarce have ſerv'd to venture upon theſe N. Hol⯑land Guano's, both the Looks and the Smell of them being ſo offenſive.

The Sea-fiſh that we ſaw here (for here was no River, Land or Pond of Freſh Wa⯑ter to be ſeen) are chiefly Sharks. There are abundance of them in this particular Sound, that I therefore gave it the Name of Shark's Bay. Here are alſo Skates Thornbacks, and other Fiſh of the Ray [125] kind; (one ſort eſpecially like the Sea-Devil) and Garfiſh, Boneta's, &c. Of Shell-fiſh we got here Muſcles, Periwink⯑les, Limpits, Oyſters, both of the Pearl⯑kind and alſo Eating-Oyſters, as well the common ſort as long Oyſters; beſide Cockles, &c. The Shore was lined thick with many other ſorts of very ſtrange and beautiful Shells, for variety of Colour and Shape, moſt finely ſpotted with Red, Black, or Yellow, &c. ſuch as I have not ſeen any where but at this place. I brought away a great many of them; but loſt all, except a very few, and thoſe not of the beſt.

There are alſo ſome green Turtle weigh⯑ing about 200 lb. Of theſe we caught 2 which the Water Ebbing had left behind a Ledge of Rock, which they could not creep over. Theſe ſerved all my Company 2 Days; and they were indifferent ſweet Meat. Of the Sharks we caught a great many, which our Men eat very ſavourily. Among them we caught one which was 11 Foot long. The ſpace between its 2 Eyes was 20 Inches, and 18 Inches from one Corner of his Mouth to the other. Its Maw was like a Leather Sack, very thick, and ſo tough that a ſharp Knife could ſcarce cut it: In which we found the Head and Boans of a Hippopotomus; the hairy Lips of which were ſtill ſound and not putrified, [126] and the Jaw was alſo firm, out of which we pluckt a great many Teeth, 2 of them 8 Inches long, and as big as a Mans Thumb, ſmall at one end, and a little crooked; the reſt not above half ſo long. The Maw was full of Jelly which ſtank extreamly: However I ſaved for a while the Teeth and the Sharks Jaw: The Fleſh of it was divi⯑ded among my Men; and they took care that no waſte ſhould be made of it.

'Twas the 7th of Auguſt when we came into Shark's-Bay; in which we Anchor'd at three ſeveral Places, and ſtay'd at the firſt of them (on the W. ſide of the Bay) till the 11th. During which time we ſearch⯑ed about, as I ſaid, for freſh Water, digging Wells, but to no purpoſe. How⯑ever, we cut good ſtore of Fire-wood at this firſt Anchoring-place; and my Com⯑pany were all here very well refreſhed with Raccoons, Turtle, Shark and other Fiſh, and ſome Fowles; ſo that we were now all much brisker than when we came in hi⯑ther. Yet ſtill I was for ſtanding farther into the Bay, partly becauſe I had a Mind to increaſe my ſtock of freſh Water, which was began to be low; and partly for the ſake of Diſcovering this part of the Coaſt. I was invited to go further, by ſeeing from this Anchoring-place all open before me [...] which therefore I deſigned to ſearch befor [...] I left the Bay. So on the 11th about Noon [...] [127] I ſteer'd farther in, with an eaſie Sail, be⯑cauſe we had but ſhallow Water: We kept therefore good looking out for fear of Sholes; ſometimes ſhortning, ſometimes deepning the Water. About 2 in the Afternoon we ſaw the Land a Head that makes the S. of the Bay, and before Night we had again Sholdings from that Shore: And therefore ſhortned Sail and ſtood off and on all Night, under 2 Topſails, conti⯑nually ſounding, having never more then 10 Fathom, and ſeldom leſs than 7. The Water deepned and ſholdned ſo very gent⯑ly, that in heaving the Lead 5 or 6 times we ſhould ſcarce have a Foot difference. When we came into 7 Fathom either way, we preſently went about. From this S. part of the Bay, we could not ſee the Land from whence we came in the Afternoon: And this Land we found to be an Iſland of 3 or 4 Leagues long, as is ſeen in the Plain, [Ta⯑ble IV. No. 6.] but it appearing barren, I did not ſtrive to go nearer it; and the ra⯑ther becauſe the Winds would not permit us to do it without much Trouble, and at the Openings the Water was generally Shole. I therefore made no farther attempts in this S. W. and S. part of the Bay, but ſteered away to the Eaſtward, to ſee if there was any Land that way, for as yet we had ſeen none there. On the 12th in the Morning we paſs'd by the N. Point of [128] that Land, and were confirm'd in the Per⯑ſuaſion of its being an Iſland, by ſeeing an Opening to the Eaſt of it, as we had done on the W. Having fair Weather, a ſmall Gale and ſmooth Water, we ſtood further on in the Bay, to ſee what Land was on the E. of it. Our Soundings at firſt were 7 Fathom, which held ſo a great while, but at length it decreas'd to 6. Then we ſaw the Land right a-head, that in the Plan makes the E. of the Bay. We could not come near it with the Ship, hav⯑ing but Shole water: and it being dange⯑rous lying there, and the Land extraordi⯑narily low, very unlikely to have freſh Water (though it had a few Trees on it, ſeemingly Mangroves) and much of it pro⯑bably covered at High-water, I ſtood out again that Afternoon, deepning the Water, and before Night anchored in 8 Fathom, clean white Sand, about the middle of the Bay. The next day we got up our An⯑chor; and that Afternoon came to an An⯑chor once more near two Iſlands, and a Shole of Corral Rocks that face the Bay. Here I ſcrubb'd my Ship: and finding it very improbable I ſhould get any thing further here, I made the beſt of my way out to Sea again, ſounding all the way: but finding by the ſhallowneſs of the Wa⯑ter that there was no going out to Sea to the Eaſt of the two Iſlands that face the [129] Bay, nor between them, I return'd to the Weſt Entrance, going out by the ſame Way I came in at, only on the Eaſt inſtead of the Weſt-ſide of the ſmall Shole to be ſeen in the Plan: in which Channel we had 10, 12, and 13 Fathom-water, ſtill deep⯑ning upon us till we were out at Sea. The day before we came out I ſent a Boat a⯑ſhore to the moſt Northerly of the Two Iſlands, which is the leaſt of them, catch⯑ing many ſmall Fiſh in the mean while with Hook and Line. The Boat's Crew returning, told me, That the Ifle produces nothing but a ſort of green, ſhort, hard, prickly Graſs, affording neither Wood nor freſh Water; and that a Sea broak between the two Iſlands, a Sign that the Water was ſhallow. They ſaw a large Turtle, and many Skates and Thornbacks, but caught none.

It was August the 14th when I ſail'd out of this Bay or Sound, the Mouth of which lies, as I ſaid, in 25 deg. 5 min. deſigning to coaſt along to the N. E. till I might commodiouſly put in at ſome other part of N. Holland. In paſſing out we ſaw three Water-Serpents ſwimming about in the Sea, of a yellow Colour, ſpotted with dark, brown Spots. They were each a⯑bout four Foot long, and about the big⯑neſs of a Man's Wriſt, and were the firſt I ſaw on this Coaſt, which abounds with [130] ſeveral ſorts of them. We had the Winds at our firſt coming out at N. and the Land lying North-Eaſterly. We plied off and on, getting forward but little till the next day: When the Wind coming at S. S. W. and S. we began to Coaſt it along the Shore to the Northward, keeping at 6 or 7 Leagues off Shore; and ſounding often, we had between 40 and 46 Fathom-water, brown Sand, with ſome white Shells. This 15th of August we were in Lat. 24 deg. 41 min. On the 16th Day at Noon we were in 23 deg. 22 min. The Wind com⯑ing at E. by N. we could not keep the Shore aboard, but were forced to go far⯑ther off, and loſt ſight of the Land. Then ſounding we had no Ground with 80 Fa⯑thom-line; however the Wind ſhortly af⯑ter came about again to the Southward, and then we jogg'd on again to the North⯑ward, and ſaw many ſmall Dolphins and Whales, and abundance of Scuttle-ſhells ſwimming on the Sea; and ſome Water⯑ſnakes every day. The 17th we ſaw the Land again, and took a Sight of it. [See Table IV. N^o. 7.]

The 18th in the Afternoon, being 3 or 4 Leagues off Shore, I ſaw a Shole point, ſtretching from the Land into the Sea, a League or more. The Sea broke high on it; by which I ſaw plainly there was a Shole there. I ſtood farther off, and coaſt⯑ed [131] along Shore, to about 7 or 8 Leagues diſtance: And at 12 a Clock at Night we ſounded, and had but 20 Fathom, hard Sand. By this I found I was upon ano⯑ther Shole, and ſo preſently ſteered off W. half an hour, and had then 40 Fathom. At One in the Morning of the 18th day we had 85 Fathom: By Two we could find no Ground; and then I ventur'd to ſteer along Shore again, due N. which is two Points wide of the Coaſt (that lies here N. N. E.) for fear of another Shole. I would not be too far off from the Land, being deſirous to ſearch into it where-ever I ſhould find an Opening or any Conveni⯑ence of ſearching about, for Water, &c. When we were off the Shole-point I men⯑tion'd where we had but 20 Fathom-wa⯑ter, we had in the Night abundance of Whales about the Ship, ſome a head, o⯑thers a ſtern, and ſome on each ſide blow⯑ing and making a very diſmal Noiſe; but when we came out again into deeper Wa⯑ter they left us. Indeed the Noiſe that they made by blowing and daſhing of the Sea with their Tails, making it all of a Breach and Fome, was very dreadful to us, like the breach of the Waves in very Shole-water, or among Rocks. The Shole theſe Whales were upon had depth of Water ſufficient, no leſs than twenty Fathom, as I ſaid; and it lies in Lat. 22 [132] deg. 22 min. The Shore was generally bold all along: we had met with no Shole at Sea ſince the Abrohlo-ſhole, when we firſt fell on the N. Holland Coaſt in the Lat. of 28. till yeſterday in the Afternoon, and this Night. This Morning alſo when we expected by the Draught we had with us to have been 11 Leagues off Shore, we were but 4: ſo that either our Draughts were faulty, which yet hitherto and after⯑wards we found true enough as to the ly⯑ing of the Coaſt, or elſe here was a Tide unknown to us that deceived us; tho' we had found very little of any Tide on this Coaſt hitherto. As to our Winds in the Coaſting thus far, we had been within the Verge of the General Trade (tho' inter⯑rupted by the Storm I mention'd) from the Lat. of 28, when we firſt fell in with the Coaſt: and by that time we were in the Lat. of 25. we had uſually the regular Trade-wind (which is here S. S. E.) when we were at any diſtance ſrom Shore: but we had often Sea and Land-Breezes, eſpe⯑cially when near Shore, and when in Sharks bay; and had a particular N. Weſt Wind, or Storm, that ſet us in thither. On this 18th of Auguſt we coaſted with a brisk Gale of the True Trade-wind at S. S. E. very ſair and clear VVeather; but haling off in the Evening to Sea, were next Morning out of ſight of Land: and the [133] Land now trending away N. Eaſterly, and we being to the Norward of it, and the Wind alſo ſhrinking from the S. S. E. to the E. S. E. (that is, from the True Trade-Wind to the Sea-Breeze, as the Land now lay) we could not get in with the Land again yet a-while, ſo as to ſee it, tho' we trim'd ſharp and kept cloſe on a Wind. We were this 19th day in Lat. [...]1 deg. 42 min. The 20th we were in Lat. 19 deg. 37 min. and kept cloſe on a Wind to get ſight of the Land again, but could not yet ſee it. We had very fair Weather; and tho' we were ſo far from the Land as to be out of ſight of it, yet we had the Sea and Land-Breezes. In the Night we had the Land-breeze at S. S. E. a ſmall gentle Gale; which in the Morn⯑ing about Sun-riſing would ſhift about gradually (and withal increaſing in Strength) till about Noon we ſhould have it at E. S. E. which is the true Sea-breeze here. Then it would blow a brisk Gale, ſo that we could ſcarce carry our Top ſails double rift: and it would continue thus till 3 in the Afternoon, when it would decreaſe again. The Weather was fair all the while, not a Cloud to be ſeen; but very hazy, eſpecially nigh the Horizon. We ſounded ſeveral times this 20th day, and at firſt had no Ground: but had after⯑wards from 52 to 45 Fathom, courſe [134] brown Sand, mixt with ſmall, brown and white Stones, with Dints beſides in the Tallow.

The 21ſt day alſo we had ſmall Land⯑breezes in the Night, and Sea-breezes in the day: and as we ſaw ſome Sea-ſnakes every day, ſo this day we ſaw a great ma⯑ny, of two different ſorts or ſhapes. One ſort was yellow, and about the bigneſs of a Man's Wriſt, about 4 Foot long, hav⯑ing a flat Tail about 4 Fingers broad. The other ſort was much ſmaller and ſhorter, round and ſpotted black and yel⯑low. This day we ſounded ſeveral times, and had 45 Fathom, Sand. We did not make the Land till Noon, and then ſaw it firſt from our Topmaſt-head. It bore S.E. by E. about 9 Leagues diſtance; and it appeared like a Cape or Head of Land. The Sea-breeze this day was not ſo ſtrong as the day before, and it veered out more; ſo that we had a fair Wind to run in with to the Shore, and at Sun-ſet anchored in 20 Fathom, clean Sand, about 5 Leagues from the bluff Point; which was not a Cape (as it appear'd at a great diſtance) but the Eaſtermoſt end of an Iſland, about 5 or 6 Leagues in length, and one in breadth. There were 3 or 4 Rocky Iſlands about a I cague from us between us and the bluff Point; and we ſaw many other Iſlands both to the Eaſt and VVeſt of it, as [135] far as we could ſee either way from our Topmaſt head: And all within them to the S. there was nothing but Iſlands of a pretty heighth, that may be ſeen 8 or 9 Leagues off. By what we ſaw of them they muſt have been a Range of Iſlands of about 20 Leagues in length, ſtretching from E. N. E. to VV. S. VV. and for ought I know, as far as to thoſe of Sharks-Bay; and to a conſiderable breadth alſo, (for we could ſee 9 or 10 Leagues in a⯑mong them) towards the Continent or main Land of N. Holland, if there be any ſuch thing hereabouts: and by the great Tides I met with awhile afterwards, more to the N. Eaſt, I had a ſtrong ſuſpicion that here might be a kind of Archipelago of Iſlands, and a Paſſage poſſibly to the S. of N. Holland and N. Guinea into the great S. Sea Eaſtward; which I had Thoughts alſo of attempting in my Return from N. Guinea (had Circumſtances permitted) and told my Officers ſo: but I would not at⯑tempt it at this time, becauſe we wanted VVater, and could not depend upon find⯑ing it there. This Place is in the Lat. of 20 deg. 21 min. but in the Draught that I had of this Coaſt, which was Taſman's, it was laid down in 19 deg. 50 min. and the Shore is laid down as all along joining in one Body or Continent, with ſome Openings appearing like Rivers; and not [136] like Iſlands, as really they are. See ſeveral Sights of it, Table IV. N^o. 8, 9, 10. This Place therefore lies more Northerly by 40 min. than is laid down in Mr. Taſman's Draught: And beſide its being made a firm, continued Land, only with ſome Openings like the Mouths of Rivers, I ſound the Soundings alſo different from what the prickt Line of his Courſe ſhews them, and generally ſhallower than he makes them: which inclines me to think that he came not ſo near the Shore as his Line ſhews, and ſo had deeper Soundings, and could not ſo well diſtinguiſh the Iſlands. His Meridian or Difference of Longitude from Sharks-Bay agrees well enough with my Account, which is 232 Leagues tho' we differ in Lat. And to confirm my Conje⯑cture that the Line of his Courſe is made too near the Shore, at leaſt not far to the Eaſt of this place, the VVater is there ſo ſhallow that he could not come there ſo nigh.

But to proceed; in the Night we had a ſmall Land-breeze, and in the Morning I weighed Anchor, deſigning to run in a⯑mong the Iſlands, for they had large Chan⯑nels between them, of a League wide at leaſt, and ſome 2 or 3 Leagues wide. I ſent in my Boat before to ſound, and if they ſound Shole-water to return again; but if they ſound Water enough, to go a⯑ſhore [137] on one of the Iſlands, and ſtay till the Ship came in; where they might in the mean time ſearch for Water. So we followed after with the Ship, ſounding as we went in, and had 20 Fathom, till with⯑in 2 Leagues of the Bluff-head, and then we had ſhole Water, and very uncertain Soundings: Yet we ran in ſtill with an ea⯑ſie Sail, ſounding and looking out well, for this was dangerous Work. When we came abreaſt of the Bluff-head; and about 2 Mile from it, we had but 7 Fathom: Then we Edged away from it, but had no more Water; and running in a little further, we had but 4 Fathoms: So we Anchored immediately; and yet when we had veered out a third of a Cable we had 7 Fathom Water again; ſo uncertain was the Water. My Boat came immediately aboard, and told me that the Iſland was ve⯑ry Rocky and Dry, and they had little hopes of finding Water there. I ſent them to ſound, and bad them, if they found a Channel of 8 or 10 Fathom Water, to keep on, and we would follow with the Ship. We were now about 4 Leagues within the outer ſmall Rocky Iſlands, but ſtill could ſee nothing but Iſlands within us; ſome 5 or 6 Leagues long, others not above a Mile round. The large Iſlands were pretty high; but all appeared Dry, and moſtly Rocky and Barren. The Rocks look'd of [138] a ruſty yellow Colour, and therefore I diſpair'd of getting Water on any of them: but was in ſome hopes of finding a Channel to run in beyond all theſe Iſlands, could I have ſpent time here, and either get to the Main of New Holland, or find out ſome o⯑ther Iſlands that might afford us Water and other Refreſhments: Beſides, that among ſo many Iſlands, we might have found ſome ſort of Rich Mineral, or Ambergreeſe, it being a good Latitude for both theſe. But we had not Sailed above a League far⯑ther before our Water grew ſholer again, and then we Anchored in 6 Fathom hard Sand.

We were now on the inner ſide of the Iſland, on whoſe outſide is the Bluff-point. We rode a League from the Iſland, and I preſently went aſhore, and carried Shovels to dig for Water, but found none. There grow here 2 or 3 ſorts of Shrubs, one juſt like Roſemary; and therefore I call'd this Roſemary Iſland. It grew in great plenty here, but had no ſmell. Some of the o⯑ther Shrubs had blue and yellow Flowers; and we found 2 ſorts of Grain like Beans: The one grew on Buſhes; the other on a ſort of a creeping Vine that runs along on the Ground, having very thick broad Leaves, and the Bloſſom like a Bean Bloſ⯑ſom, but much larger, and of a deep red Colour, looking very Beautiful. We ſaw [139] here ſome Cormorants, Gulls, Crabcatch⯑ers, &c. a few ſmall Land Birds, and a ſort of white Parrots, which flew a great many together. We found ſome Shell⯑fiſh, viz. Limpits, Perriwinkles, and a⯑bundance of ſmall Oyſters growing on the Rocks, which were very ſweet. In the Sea we ſaw ſome green Turtle, a pretty many Sharks, and abundance of Water-Snakes of ſeveral ſorts and ſizes. The Stones were all of ruſty Colour, and Pon⯑derous.

We ſaw a Smoak on an Iſland 3 or 4 Leagues off; and here alſo the Buſhes had been burned, but we found no other ſign of Inhabitants: 'T was probable that on the Iſland where the Smoke was there were Inhabitants, and freſh Water for them. In the Evening I went aboard, and conſult⯑ed with my Officers whether it was beſt to ſend thither, or to ſearch among any o⯑ther of theſe Iſlands with my Boat; or elſe go from hence, and Coaſt along Shore with the Ship, till we could find ſome bet⯑ter Place than this was to ride in, where we had ſhole Water, and lay expos'd to Winds and Tides. They all agreed to go from hence; ſo I gave Orders to weigh in the Morning as ſoon as it ſhould be light, and to get out with the Land-breeze.

On the 25th of Auguſt, we ſtill Coaſted along Shore, that we might the better ſee any Opening; kept ſounding, and had a⯑bout 20 Fathom clean Sand. The 26th Day, being about 4 Leagues off Shore the Water began gradually to ſholden from 20 to 14 Fathom. I was Edging in a little towards the Land, thinking to have Anchored: But preſently after the Water decreaſed almoſt at once, till we had but 5 Fathom. I durſt therefore adventure no farther, but ſteered out the ſame way that we came in; and in a ſhort time had 10 Fathom (being then about 4 Leagues and a half from the Shore) and even Sound⯑ings. I ſteered away E. N. E. Coaſting along as the Land lies. This Day the Sea⯑breezes began to be very moderate again, and we made the beſt of our way along Shore, only in the Night Edging off a lit⯑tle for fear of Sholes. Ever ſince we left Sharks-Bay we had had fair clear Weather, and ſo for a great while ſtill.

The 27th Day, we had 20 Fathom Wa⯑ter all Night, yet we could not ſee Land till 1 in the Afternoon from our Topmaſt-head. By 3 we could juſt diſcern Land from our Quarter-deck: We had then 16 [142] Fathom. The Wind was at N. and we ſteered E. by N. which is but one point in on the Land: Yet we decreaſed our Water very faſt; for at 4 we had but 9 Fathom; the next Caſt but 7, which frighted us; and we then tackt inſtantly and ſtood off: But in a ſhort time the Wind coming at N. W. and W. N. W. we tackt again, and ſteered N. N. E. and then deepned our Water a⯑gain, and had all Night from 15 to 20 Fa⯑thom.

The 28th Day we had between 20 and 40 Fathom. We ſaw no Land this Day, but ſaw a great many Snakes; and ſome Whales. We ſaw alſo ſome Boobies, and Noddy-birds; and in the Night caught one of theſe laſt. It was of another Shape and Colour than any I had ſeen before. It had a ſmall long Bill, as all of them have, flat Feet like Ducks Feet; its Tail forked like a Swallow, but longer and broader, and the Fork deeper than that of the Swal⯑low, with very long Wings: The Top or Crown of the Head of this Noddy was Coal-black, having alſo ſmall black Streaks round about and cloſe to the Eyes; and round theſe Streaks on each ſide, a pretty broad white Circle. The Breaſt, Belly, and under part of the Wings of this Nod⯑dy were white: And the Back and upper part of its Wings of a ſaint black or ſmoak Colour. See a Picture of this, and of the [143] Common one, Birds, Fig. 5, 6. Noddies are ſeen in moſt Places between the Tropicks, as well in the Eaſt-Indies, and on the Coaſt of Brazil, as in the West-Indies. They reſt a Shore a Nights, and therefore we never ſee them far at Sea, not above 20 or 30 Leagues, unleſs driven off in a Storm. When they come about a Ship they com⯑monly perch in the Night, and will ſit ſtill till they are taken by the Seamen. They Build on Cliffs againſt the Sea, or Rocks, as I have ſaid Vol. I. p. 53.

The 30th Day being in Lat. 18 deg. 21 min. we made the Land again, and ſaw many great Smoaks near the Shore; and having fair Weather and moderate Breezes, I ſteered in towards it. At 4 in the After⯑noon I Anchored in 8 Fathom Water, clear Sand, about 3 Leagues and a half from the Shore. I preſently ſent my Boat to Sound nearer in, and they found 10 Fa⯑thom about a Mile farther in: and from thence ſtill farther in the Water decreaſed gradually to 9, 8, 7. and at 2 Mile diſtance to 6 Fathom. This Evening we ſaw an Eclipſe of the Moon, but it was abating before the Moon appear'd to us; for the Horizon was very hazy, ſo that we could not ſee the Moon till ſhe had been half an hour above the Horizon: and at two hours, 22 min. after Sun-ſet, by the reck⯑oning of our Glaſſes, the Eclipſe was quite [144] gone, which was not of many Digits. The Moon's Center was then 33 deg. 40 min. high.

The 31ſt of August betimes in the Morn⯑ing I went aſhore with 10 or 11 Men to ſearch for Water. We went armed with Muskets and Cutlaſſes for our Defence, ex⯑pecting to ſee People there; and carried alſo Shovels and Pickaxes to dig Wells. When we came near the Shore we ſaw 3 tall black naked Men on the ſandy Bay a⯑head of us: But as we row'd in, they went away. When we were landed I ſent the Boat with two Men in her to ly a little from the Shore at an Anchor, to prevent being ſeiz'd; while the reſt of us went af⯑ter the 3 black Men, who were now got on the top of a ſmall Hill about a quarter of a Mile from us, with 8 or 9 Men more in their Company. They ſeeing us com⯑ing, ran away. When we came on the top of the Hill where they firſt ſtood, we ſaw a plain Savannah, about half a mile from us, farther in from the Sea. There were ſeveral Things like Hay-cocks, ſtanding in the Savannah; which at a di⯑ſtance we thought were Houſes, looking juſt like the Hottentot's Houſes at the Cap [...] of G. Hope: but we found them to be ſ [...] many Rocks. We ſearched about theſ [...] for Water, but could find none, nor an [...] Houſes; nor People, for they were a [...] [145] Then we return'd again to the Place where we landed, and there we dug for Water.

While we were at work there came 9 or 10 of the Natives to a ſmall Hill a little way from us, and ſtood there menacing and threatning of us, and making a great Noiſe. At laſt one of them came towards us, and the reſt followed at a diſtance. I went out to meet him, and came within 50 yards of him, making to him all the Signs of Peace and Friendſhip I could; but then he ran away, neither would they any of them ſtay for us to come nigh them; for we tried two or three times. At laſt I took two Men with me, and went in the Afternoon along by the Sea⯑ſide, purpoſely to catch one of them, if I could, of whom I might learn where they got their freſh Water. There were 10 or 12 of the Natives a little way off, who ſeeing us three going away from the reſt of our Men, followed us at a diſtance. I thought they would follow us: but there being for a while a Sand-bank between us and them, that they could not then ſee us, we made a halt, and hid our ſelves in a bending of the Sand-bank. They knew we muſt be thereabouts, and being 3 or 4 times our Number, thought to ſeize us. So they diſpers'd themſelves, ſome going to the Sea-ſhore, and others beating about [146] the Sand-hills. We knew by what Ren⯑counter we had had with them in the Morning that we could eaſily out-run them: ſo a nimble young Man that was with me, ſeeing ſome of them near, ran towards them; and they for ſome time, ran away beſore him. But he ſoon over⯑taking them, they fac'd about and fought him. He had a Cutlaſs, and they had Wooden Lances: with which, being ma⯑ny of them, they were too hard for him. When he firſt ran towards them I chas'd two more that were by the Shore: but fearing how it might be with my young Man, I turn'd back quickly, and went up to the top of a Sand-hill, whence I ſaw him near me, cloſely engag'd with them. Upon their ſeeing me, one of them threw a Lance at me, that narrowly miſst me. I diſcharg'd my Gun to ſcare them, but avoided ſhooting any of them: till finding the young Man in great danger from them, and my ſelf in ſome; and that tho' the Gun had a little frighted them at firſt, yet they had ſoon learnt to deſpiſe it, toſſing up their Hands, and crying Pooh, Pooh, Pooh; and coming on afreſh with a great Noiſe, I thought it high time to charge a⯑gain, and ſhoot one of them, which I did. The reſt, ſeeing him fall, made a ſtand a⯑gain; and my young Man took the op⯑portunity to diſengage himſelf, and come [147] off to me: my other Man alſo was with me, who had done nothing all this while, having come out unarm'd; and I return'd back with my Men, deſigning to attempt the Natives no farther, being very ſorry for what had happen'd already. They took up their wounded Companion: and my young Man, who had been ſtruck through the Cheek by one of their Lances, was afraid it had been poiſon'd: but I did not think that likely. His Wound was very painful to him, being made with a blunt Weapon: but he ſoon recover'd of it.

Among the N. Hollanders, whom we were thus engag'd with, there was one who by his Appearance and Carriage, as well in the Morning as this Afternoon, ſeem'd to be the Chief of them, and a kind of Prince or Captain among them. He was a young brisk Man, not very tall, nor ſo pe [...]ſonable as ſome of the reſt, tho' more [...] and couragious: He was painted (which none of the reſt were at all) with a Circle of white Paſte or Pigment (a ſort [...]ime, as we thought) about his Eyes, and a white ſtreak down his Noſe from his Forehead to the tip of it. And his Breaſt and ſome part of his Arms were alſo made white with the ſame Paint: not for Beauty or Ornament, one would think, but as ſome wild Indian Warriors are ſaid to do, he [148] ſeem'd thereby to deſign the looking more terrible; this his Painting adding very much to his natural Deformity; for they all of them of the moſt unpleaſant Looks and the worſt Features of any People that ever I ſaw, tho' I have ſeen great variety of Savages. Theſe N. Hollanders were probably the ſame ſort of People as thoſe I met with on this Coaſt in my Voyage round the World; [See Vol. I. p. 464, &c.] for the Place I then touch'd at was not a⯑bove 40 or 50 Leagues to the N. E. of this: And theſe were much the ſame blinking Creatures (here being alſo abundance of the ſame kind of Fleſh-flies teizing them) and with the ſame black Skins, and Hair frizled, tall and thin, &c. as thoſe were: But we had not the opportunity to ſee whether theſe, as the former, wanted two of their fore-Teeth.

We ſaw a great many places where they had made Fires; and where there were commonly 3 or 4 Boughs ſtuck up to Windward of them; for the Wind (which is the Sea-breeze) in the day-time blows always one way with them; and the Land-breeze is but ſmall. By their Fire-places we ſhould always find great heaps of Fiſh⯑ſhells, of ſeueral ſorts; and 'tis probable that theſe poor Creatures here lived chiefly on the Shell-fiſh, as thoſe I before deſcrib'd did on ſmall Fiſh, which they caught in [149] Wires or Holes in the Sand at Low-water. Theſe gather'd their Shell-fiſh on the Rocks at Low-water; but had no Wires (that we ſaw) whereby to get any other ſorts of Fiſh: As among the former I ſaw not any heaps of Shells as here, though I know they alſo gather'd ſome Shell-fiſh. The Lances alſo of thoſe were ſuch as theſe had; however they being upon an Iſland, with their Women and Children, and all in our Power, they did not there uſe them againſt us, as here on the Continent, where we ſaw none but ſome of the Men under Head, who come out purpoſely to obſerve us. We ſaw no Houſes at either Place; and I believe they have none, ſince the for⯑mer People on the Iſland had none, tho' they had all their Families with them.

Upon returning to my Men I ſaw that tho' they had dug 8 or 9 Foot deep, yet found no Water. So I returned aboard that Evening, and the next day, being September 1ſt, I ſent my Boatſwain aſhore to dig deeper, and ſent the Sain with him to catch Fiſh. While I ſtaid aboard I ob⯑ſerved the flowing of the Tide, which runs very ſwift here, ſo that our Nun-buoy would not bear above the Water to be ſeen. It flows here (as on that part of N. Holland I deſcrib'd formerly, about 5 Fathom: and here the Flood runs S. E. by S. till the laſt Quarter; then it ſets [150] right in towards the Shore (which lies here S. S. W. and N. N. E.) and the Ebb runs N. W. by N. When the Tides ſlackned we Fiſh'd with Hook and Line, as we had already done in ſeveral Places on this Coaſt; on which in this Voyage hi⯑therto, we had found but little Tides: but by the Heighth, and Strength, and Courſe of them hereabouts, it ſhould ſeem that if there be ſuch a Paſſage or Streight going through Eaſtward to the Great South Sea, as I ſaid one might ſuſpect, one would ex⯑pect to find the Mouth of it ſomewhere between this Place and Roſemary Iſland, which was the part of N. Holland I come laſt from.

Next Morning my Men came aboard and brought a Rundlet of brackiſh Water which they got out of another Well that they dug in a Place a mile off, and about half as far from the Shore; but this Water was not fit to drink. However we all concluded that it would ſerve to boil our Oatmeal, for Burgoo, whereby we might ſave the Remains of our other Water for drinking, till we ſhould get more; and ac⯑cordingly the next day we brought aboard 4 Hogſheads of it: but while we were at work about the Well we were ſadly peſt⯑er'd with the Flies, which were more troubleſome to us than the Sun, tho' it ſhone clear and ſtrong upon us all the while [151] very hot. All this while we ſaw no more of the Natives, but ſaw ſome of the Smoaks of ſome of their Fires at 2 or 3 miles diſtance.

The Land hereabouts was much like that part of New Holland that I formerly deſcribed [Vol. I. p. 463.] 'tis low, but ſeemingly barricado'd with a long Chain of Sand-hills to the Sea, that let's nothing be ſeen of what is farther within Land. A [...] high Water the Tides riſing ſo high as they do, the Coaſt ſhews very low: but when 'tis low Water it ſeems to be of an indifferent heighth. At low Water-Mark the Shore is all Rocky, ſo that then there is no Landing with a Boat; but at high Water a Boat may come in over thoſe Rocks to the Sandy Bay, which runs all along on this Coaſt. The Land by the Sea for about 5 or 600 yards is a dry San⯑dy Soil, bearing only Shrubs and Buſhes of divers ſorts. Some of theſe had them at this time of the year, yellow Flowers or Bloſſoms, ſome blue, and ſome white; moſt of them of a very fragrant Smell. Some had Fruit like Peaſecods; in each of which there were juſt ten ſmall Peas: I opened many of them, and found no more nor leſs. There are alſo here ſome of that ſort of Bean which I ſaw at Roſemary-Iſland: and another ſort of ſmall, red, hard Pulſe, growing in Cods alſo, with [152] little black Eyes like Beans. I know not their Names, but have ſeen them uſed of⯑ten in the East-Indies for weighing Gold; and they make the ſame uſe of them at Guinea, as I have heard, where the Wo⯑men alſo make Bracelets with them to wear about their Arms. Theſe grow on Buſhes: but here are alſo a Fruit like Beans growing on a creeping ſort of Shrub⯑like Vine. There was great plenty of all theſe ſorts of Cod-fruit growing on the Sand-hills by the Sea-ſide, ſome of them green, ſome ripe, and ſome fallen on the Ground: but I could not perceive that any of them had been gathered by the Na⯑tives; and might not probably be whole⯑ſome Food.

The Land farther in, that is lower than what borders on the Sea, was, ſo much as we ſaw of it, very plain and even; part⯑ly Savannahs, and partly Woodland. The Savannahs bear a ſort of thin courſe Graſs. The Mould is alſo a courſer Sand than that by the Sea-ſide, and in ſome places 'tis Clay. Here are a great many Rocks in the large Savannah we were in, which are 5 or 6 Foot high, and round at top like a Hay-cock, very remarkable; ſome red, and ſome white. The Woodland lies farther in ſtill; where there were di⯑vers ſorts of ſmall Trees, ſcarce any thre [...] Foot in circumſerence; their Bodies 12 o [...] [153] 14 Foot high, with a Head of ſmall Knibs or Boughs. By the ſides of the Creeks, eſ⯑pecially nigh the Sea, there grow a few ſmall black Mangrove-Trees.

There are but few Land-Animals. I ſaw ſome Lizards; and my Men ſaw two or three Beaſts like hungry Wolves, lean like ſo many Skeletons, being nothing but Skin and Bones: 'Tis probable that it was the Foot of one of thoſe Beaſts that I mention'd as ſeen by us in N. Holland, [Vol. I. p. 463.] We ſaw a Rackoon or two, and one ſmall ſpeckled Snake.

The Land-fowls that we ſaw here were Crows (juſt ſuch as ours in England) ſmall Hawks, and Kites; a few of each ſort: but here are plenty of ſmall Turtle-Doves, that are plump, fat and very good Meat. Here are 2 or 3 ſorts of ſmaller Birds, ſome as big as Larks, ſome leſs; but not many of either ſort. The Sea-Fowl are Pelicans, Boobies, Noddies, Curlews, Sea-pies, &c. and but few of theſe neither.

The Sea is plentifully ſtock'd with the largeſt Whales that I ever ſaw: but not to compare with the vaſt ones of the Nor⯑thern Seas. We ſaw alſo a great many Green Turtle, but caught none; here be⯑ing no Place to ſet a Turtle-Net in; here being no Channel for them, and the Tides running ſo ſtrong. We ſaw ſome Sharks, [154] and Paracoots; and with Hooks and Lines we caught ſome Rock-fiſh and Old Wives. Of Shell-fiſh, here were [...]ſters both of the common kind for Eati [...], and of the Pearl-kind: and alſo W [...] [...]onchs, Muſcles, Limpits, Perriwinkles, &c. and I gather'd a few ſtrange Shells; chiefly a ſort not large, and thick-ſet all about with Rays or Spikes growing in Rows.

And thus having ranged about, a conſi⯑derable time, upon this Coaſt, without finding any good freſh Water, or any con⯑venient Place to clean the Ship, as I had hop'd for: And it being moreover the heighth of the dry Seaſon, and my Men growing Scorbutick for want of Refreſh⯑ments, ſo that I had little Incouragement to ſearch further; I reſolved to leave this Coaſt, and accordingly in the beginning of September ſet Sail towards Timor.