[] A TOUR Thro' that PART of GREAT BRITAIN CALLED SCOTLAND.

LETTER I. Containing a General DESCRIPTION of NORTH BRITAIN, its Soil, Produce, Manufactures, Eccleſiaſtical Govern⯑ment, &c.

THAT I may avoid Repetitions in my TOUR thro' the Northern Part of this famous Iſland, I ſhall begin with the following Particulars.

• I. I ſhall give a brief Geographical Account of Scotland.
• [2]II. Of its Lakes and Rivers.
• III. Of its Fiſheries, including that for Pearls.
• IV. Of the Cattle, Fowls, &c.
• V. Of its Manufactures of Linen and Woollen.
• VI. Of the Grain and Pulſe it produces.
• VII. Of its Mountains, Woods, &c.
• VIII. Of its Fountains, Springs, Medicinal Wa⯑ters, &c.
• IX. Of precious Stones, &c. found there.
• X. Of the Cuſtoms, Language, Manners, &c, of the People.
• XI. Of the Religion and Eccleſiaſtical Govern⯑ment of Scotland.
• XII. Of the Civil Government of Scotland.
• XIII. A ſhort View of the Acts of Parliament ſince the Union, that have made any Altera⯑tion in the Laws of Scotland.
• XIV. Of the Order of the Thiſtle.
• XV. Some brief Obſervations on the Whole; and the Diviſion of Scotland into Shires, &c.

Of all which, as ſuccinctly as poſſible. And,

LETTER II. CONTAINING A Deſcription of the Merſe, the Two Lothians, of Edinburgh, Leith, &c.

I AM juſt now entered Scotland by the ordinary Way of Berwick, which ſtands on the North Side of the River Tweed, and has a Bridge by which it is joined to Northumberland. It was originally a Scots Town, and is to this Day no Part of England; but has divers diſtinct Cuſtoms and Privileges, and is mentioned in all Statutes and Pro⯑clamations as a Place or Liberty of itſelf, diſtinct from England and Wales. It was formerly the chief Town of the Merſe, which to this Day is called the Shire of Berwick. It was often taken from, and retaken by the Scots; but the laſt time it fell into the Engliſh Hands, which was long before the Union of the Two Crowns in the Perſon of King James VI. they fortified it more ſtrongly than it had been formerly, and manned it with a ſufficient Gariſon, ſo that all the Attempts of the Scots to regain it afterwards, proved ineffectual. It is a Place of no extraordinary [43] Trade, tho' a great Thorough-fare. It has but one Church, which is under the Juriſdiction of the Biſhop, and in the Gift of the Dean and Chapter of Durham.

As ſoon as we get out of the Town, we enter on Scots Ground, tho', in Times of War, it uſed to be part of what was called Debateable Land, and on that Account but thinly inhabited; for the Borderers of each Kingdom often made Inroads on one another, notwithſtanding that a great Number of Men, at an incredible Trouble and Expence, kept Watch every Night; beſides which, there were Watch-towers all along the Borders at proper Diſtances, and ſeveral Laws relating to the Borders made by Commiſſioners from both Kingdoms.

The firſt Thing we obſerved was the Sea on the Right-hand, and the River Tweed, which fetches a Reach Northward, on the Left. The Land between lies ſo high, that in ſtormy Weather 'tis very bleak and unpleaſant, having little or no Shelter: How⯑ever, the Land, compared to what we left in Northum⯑berland, or what we ſoon found farther in Scotland, is good.

The firſt Town in Scotland is Mordington, a poor ſorry Village; yet gives the Title of Lord to a Branch of the noble Family of Douglas. The preſent Lord lives in England, and is ſo well known, that I need ſay no more of him.

From the Brow of a very high and ſteep Hill, we had a large View into Scotland; but we were wel⯑comed to it by ſuch a Guſt of Wind, that it obliged us to quit our Horſes in real Apprehenſion of being blown off; beſides, the Wind blowing full North, and the Road turning toward the ſame Quarter, it blew directly in our Faces. I can truly ſay, I never was ſenſible of ſo exceeding keen and ſharp a Cold; for it pierced our very Eyes, ſo that we could ſcarcely keep them open.

[44]When we went down the Hill, the firſt Town we came to is almoſt as perfectly Scots, as if you were an hundred Miles North of Edinburgh; and there is very little Appearance of any thing Engliſh there, either in Cuſtoms, Habits, Uſages of the People, or in their way of Living, Eating, or Behaviour. And there are very few Engliſh Familes to be found among them.

On the contrary, you have in England abundance of Scots Men, Scots Cuſtoms, Words, Habits, and Uſages; nay, even the Buildings in the Towns and Villages all over Northumberland imitate the Scots; witneſs their building their Houſes with the Stairs going up to the ſecond Story on the Outſide of the Houſe, that one Family may live below, and an⯑other above, without going in at the ſame Door (which is the Scots way of Living); as you may ſee in Alnwick, Wirkworth, and ſeveral other Towns; witneſs alſo their ſetting their Corn in great Numbers of ſmall Stacks without Doors, not making uſe of Barns, but only a particular Building, which they call a Barn, tho' no more than a Threſhing-floor, into which they rake one of theſe ſmall Stacks at a time, and threſh it out.

The firſt Town is called Ayton, from the ſmall River Ay, on whoſe Bank it ſtands. The Church was ruin⯑ous, and quite deſtitute of a Roof. The Heritors being of different Opinions, contributed not a little to the Dilapidation. Such as were epiſcopally inclined were very backward in contributing their Share, and the Preſbyterians thought it hard the Whole ſhould lie upon them; ſo that, between the two, the Roof fell to the Ground. However, the Miniſter preached in a Barn to the Generality of the Pariſhioners, and ſuch as were otherwiſe inclined, heard Epiſcopal Miniſters in the Houſes of ſome of the neighbouring Gentry.

[45]About Three Miles farther Eaſt is a ſmall Harbour, with a Town called Eymouth, Aymouth, or Haymouth, where a Fort was formerly raiſed to curb the Gariſon of Berwick. This Town gave Title of Baron to the late Duke of Marlborough; but the Patent being granted only to him, and the Heirs-male of his own Body, the Honour extinguiſhed with him. It is a good Fiſhing-town, and affords a good Harbour for Fiſhing-veſſels. In Queen Elizabeth's Time, the French held it, and fortified it, as it was the firſt Port in Scotland they could ſafely land their Supplies at, for the Queen-mother; but they were obliged to quit that, and the Kingdom, ſome time after, by a Treaty, Queen Elizabeth ſupporting the Reformers againſt her.

From this Bridge we enter upon a moſt deſolate, and, in Winter, frightful Moor for Travellers, eſpe⯑cially Strangers, called Coldingham Moor, upon which, for about Eight Miles, you hardly ſee a Hedge or a Tree, and you meet with but one Houſe all the Way, and that not a Houſe of Entertainment.

Coldingham, whence this Moor derives its Name, was an old Monaſtery, built by Edgar, King of Scotland, about the Year 1100, and famous for its Lady Abbeſs Ebba, of whom they tell us the follow⯑ing Story.

This Lady was the Daughter of Edelfred, King of Northumberland; and, when her Father was taken Priſoner by the Pagan Mercians, ſhe got into a Boat in the Humber, with three other Women, and, by their own Prayers only, were miraculouſly preſerved, and carried as far as Scotland, where, under a Pro⯑montory, they were driven on Shore by a Storm, and their Boat daſhed in Pieces.

When they got aſhore, they laboured with their Hands, and made themſelves a little Hut to lodge in; they continued their religious way of Living, and the Country People ſuſtained them with Food; till at [46] length, acquiring a great Character by their San⯑ctity and Auſterity, they were addreſſed to far and near for their Prayers; and, by the Charity of the People, got enough to build a religious Houſe at Coldingham.

Here, as Fame ſays, when the cruel Danes came on Shore, the religious Lady (who, it ſeems, was very beautiful too!) cut off her Noſe and upper Lip, and made all her Nuns do the ſame, in order to pre⯑ſerve their Chaſtity. Whereupon the barbarous Danes, enraged at their Zeal, fired their Nunnery, and burnt them all alive. From this Lady, who, it is ſaid, was ſainted for theſe Sufferings, the Promontory where ſhe landed is to this Day called St. Ebbe's Head, and vulgarly, by our Sailors, St. Tabbe's. There was once, upon the Point of this Promontory, a ſtrong Fort called Faſt-caſtle, belonging to the Earl of Hume; but it has been ſome time demoliſhed.

A little to the North-weſt is the Town and Caſtle of Duns, remarkable for the Birth of John Duns Scotus, Anno 1274. ſome of whoſe Family are ſtill in Being there. He was a Frier Minor, and the greateſt Scholar of his Age. Scaliger ſays, there was nothing his Genius was not capable of. But his chief Study was in Points more nice than neceſſary, whereupon he was called Doctor Subtilis. His Fol⯑lowers, called Scotiſts, were great Oppoſers of the Thomiſts, another Set of Scholaſticks, ſo named from Thomas Aquinas. He ſtudied at Oxford and Paris, and died of an Apoplexy at Cologn. After Berwick was taken by the Engliſh, the Sheriff-Court was kept here, which was but lately removed to a Mar⯑ket-town, called Greenlow; which is alſo a Royal Burgh, and the principal in the Shire, belonging to the Earl of Marchmont.

Duns was alſo remarkable for the Encampment of the Scotiſh Army, under General Leſley, aſſembled to oppoſe King Charles I. when he came to the [47] Engliſh Borders with an Army, to perſuade that Kingdom to Obedience. It has the beſt weekly Market for Cattle in Scotland, and is a Place of the beſt Trade in this County.

Coldſtream is alſo a Market-town, in this County of Merſe, where was antiently an Abbey. Eccles likewiſe had another: and Erſilton is noted for the Birth-place of the Rhyming Poet Lermouth, ſo much admired by the Vulgar Scots. Hume was formerly the Reſidence of the Earls of that Name, which they derived from the Town, and they had a ſtrong Caſtle there, now demoliſh'd.

The inconſiderate Vanity of the ancient Scotiſh Gentry and Nobility, of deriving their Names from the Places of their Reſidence, had this Inconvenience attending it, that in a few Generations, it loſt the old Name of the Family from which theſe Changelings (may I, without Affront, call them?) deſcended. Thus the Dunbars and Humes, originally the ſame, came to be thought two diſtinct ones. In like man⯑ner, the Gordons, Swintons, Ridpaths, Niſbets, and the Spotſwoods, as ſome ſay, tho' all of the ſame Original, muſt have loſt the Knowledge of it, had it not been for Tradition, or the Armorial Bearings of the ſeveral Families, which beſpeak them to be of the ſame Lineage. This Hint may ſerve once for all, as to thoſe Families called of that Ilk; i. e. whoſe Surname and paternal Eſtate, are the ſame, and are generally eſteemed ancient and honourable.

The County of Merſe, or March, formerly gave Title of Earls of March, to the Family of Dunbar, who, according to Camden, derived their Origin from the famous Goſpatrick, Earl of Northumberland, who retired into Scotland on the Norman Conqueſt, and was honoured with the Earldom of March, and Caſtle of Dunbar, by the then King Malcolm Can⯑more, whence his Poſterity took the Name; while another Branch, being poſſeſſed of the Barony of [48] Hume, aſſumed that for their Surname, which they ſtill retain. George de Dunbar being proſcribed in the Reign of James I. of Scotland, the Title of Earl of March was conferred on the Duke of Albany, then on the Family of Stewart and Lenox; which being extinct, King William III. conferred it on William Douglas, Brother of the Duke of Queenſ⯑bury, whoſe Son now enjoys it.

Having paſſed over Coldingham Moor, called alſo Lambermoor, the Lowlands of Eaſt-Lothian ſhew themſelves from the Top of a ſteep Hill, and give a Proſpect of a fruitful and pleaſant Country. As ſoon as we come down the Hill, there is a Village, called Cockburnſpath, or Cobberſpath, where Nature forms a very ſteep and difficult Paſs, and where a thouſand Men well armed, and boldly doing their Duty, could keep out a very great Army, if there was occaſion for it.

The next Shire is that of Eaſt-Lothian; and the firſt Houſe of any Note we met with in it, was that of Dunglaſs, the Seat of Sir James Hall. We began here to ſee, that Scotland was not naturally ſo barren, as ſome People repreſent it; but might be made equal even to the richeſt, moſt fruitful, moſt pleaſant, and beſt improved Part of England, if the Scots had the ſame Methods of doing it, and were as good Huſbandmen, as the Engliſh; and this might eaſily be brought to paſs, would the Gentry ſet about it, as this Gentleman has, in part, already done.

The Truth is, the Soil hereabout is very good, and the Sea-ware, as they call the Weeds which the Sea caſts up, abundantly ſupplies the Defect of Marl, Chalk, or Lime-ſtone; for by laying this continually on the Land, they plough every Year, without letting it lie fallow, as we do; and I found they had as much Corn, as our Ploughmen expreſs it, as could ſtand upon the Ground.

[49]The next Town of Note is Dunbar, a Royal Burgh, which, in Scotland, is much the ſame with what we call a Corporation in England, and ſends Members to Parliament in like manner; only, in Scotland, theſe Burghs have ſome particular Privileges ſeparate to themſelves; as that, for Example, of holding a Sort of Parliament, called a Convention of Burghs, a Method taken from the Union of the Hans Towns in the North, in which they meet and concert Meaſures for the publick Good of the Towns, and of their Trade, and make By-laws, or Acts and Declarations, which bind the whole Body. Not have they loſt this Privilege by the Union with Eng⯑land, but it is preſerved entire, and is now many ways more advantageous to them than it was before, as their Trade is like to be, in time, more con⯑ſiderable. But this I have taken notice of in an⯑other Place.

This Town of Dunbar is a handſome well-built Town, ſituated in the Mouth of the River Forth, on the South-ſide towards the German Ocean. It is a very conſiderable Port, and of great Advantage to all Ships in the River, in caſe of Streſs of Weather; but yet its Entrance was ſo difficult by ſteep Rocks, in the Mouth of the Harbour, that the Corporation had exhauſted itſelf by endeavouring to cut through them; and being unable to proceed further in it; and at the ſame time, the Town-houſe and School of the Town being run to Decay, and the Town itſelf deſtitute of freſh Water: To anſwer all theſe good Purpoſes, they procured an Act to paſs, in the Year 1718. intituled, An Act for laying a Duty of [...] Pennies Scots, or one 6th Part of a Penny, upon every Pint of Ale or Beer that ſhall be ſold within the Town of Dunbar; for improving and preſerving the Harbour, and repairing the Town-houſe, and building a School, and other publick Buildings there; and for ſupplying the ſaid Town with freſh Water.

[50]This Duty has been of very great Service to the Town, and has enabled them to make a great Pro⯑greſs in the intended Improvements; but the prin⯑cipal Works, which were to dig up Part of a Rock at the Bottom of the Harbour, to carry out the great Pier to the Rock called The Beacon Rock, to cut the Slope of the Iſland down to a Perpendicular, and to ſupply the Town with freſh Water, remaining un⯑done; and the Act expiring in the Year 1738. the ſame was continued for 25 Years longer, by an Act paſſed 10 Geo. II. which will, it is hoped, per⯑fect all that remains undone.

They had here a great Herring-fiſhery, which has decayed very much of late Years; and they cure Herrings here, as they do at Yarmouth in Norfolk, tho' I can't ſay they cure them ſo well, nor are they ſo fit for keeping and ſending on long Voyages. The Herrings themſelves may indeed make a little Differ⯑ence, being generally larger and fatter than thoſe of Yarmouth; which makes it more difficult to cure them, ſo as to keep in a hot Climate, and on a long Voyage. Here was formerly a ſtrong Caſtle, which was demoliſh'd by Act of Parliament during the Minority of King James VI.

Between the Town and the great Road ſtands a little, but pleaſant and agreeable Seat of the Duke of Roxburgh, called Broxmouth, with a Park well planted in Viſta's and Walks; for the Gentlemen of Scotland are now ſet upon planting Foreſt-trees, as well for Ornament as Profit. And here I would give an uſeful Hint to the Gentlemen who plant Trees in Scotland, the Want of which, as I have obſerved at ſeveral great Houſes and Parks in that Country, is the Reaſon they do not thrive, as they might otherwiſe do: And this is, by ſecuring the young Trees by a triangular Frame ſeven or eight Feet high, which is made by ſetting three large Stakes about them in an equilateral Triangle, and [51] Tree and all, with Haybands, to defend the Bark, faſten'd together at the Top. Then, as the Tree ſtands in the Centre of the Triangle, which way ſoever the Wind blows, the Root is not ſhaken, or the Earth moved and looſened about it.

For want of this, the Tree being left without Support before it has taken Root, the Winds ſhake it every way, and looſen the Earth about it, ſo that it gets no Time to ſtrike. This is the Reaſon why, in many of the Gentlemens Parks, I ſaw the Trees ſtunted and balked, though they had been planted many Years.

On the South-weſt Side of this Town, under the Mountains, near a Place called Dun-hill, is the Field where the Battle of Dunbar was fought between Oliver Cromwell and General Leſly, Commander of the Scots Army, where the deſperate Few (for Crom⯑well's Army was not above 8000 Men) defeated and totally overthrew the great Army of the other Side, killed 6000 of them, and took 10000 Priſoners, to the Surprize of the World.

Here we turned out of the Way, to ſee the Mar⯑quis of Tweedale's fine Park at Yeſter, or Zeſter; in the Centre of which ſtands a very noble Houſe, but in a too low Situation.

The old Earl of Tweedale, in the Reign of King Charles II. having ſeen the Plans of Greenwich and St. James's Parks, was ſo pleaſed with them, that, as ſoon as he went down into Scotland, he laid out the Plan and Deſign of all thoſe noble Walks and Foreſts of Trees, which he planted here. A Gentleman whoſe Judgment I can depend upon, told me, that if ever thoſe Trees came to be worth but Six-pence apiece, they would be of more Value than the Fee Simple of the whole paternal Eſtate of the Family. Nor is this unlikely, if it be true, that his Lordſhip, and his immediate Succeſſor, planted above 6000 Acres of Land with Fir-trees; and where-ever any [52] of them failed, they were conſtantly renewed the next Year.

The Park itſelf is ſaid to be eight Miles round, and exceeds, in many reſpects, the new Park at Rich⯑mond in Surrey: But the Plantation of Fir is not con⯑fined to this Eſtate; for the Family has another Seat at Pinkey near Muſſelburgh, where the ſame Lord planted alſo a great Number of Trees, as his Suc⯑ceſſors have likewiſe done at another Seat, which they have in Fife, near Aberdour.

As this Planting is a great Encouragement to the Nobility of Scotland to improve their Eſtates by the ſame Method, ſo we find abundance of Gentlemen follow the Example; inſomuch that you hardly ſee a Houſe of Note, eſpecially in the South Parts of this Country, but is adorned with Groves and Walks of Fir-trees about it; by which we may reaſonably ex⯑pect, that in a little time Scotland will have no need to ſend to Norway for Timber and Deal, but will have ſufficient of her own, and, perhaps, be able to furniſh England too with conſiderable Quantities.

From this Town of Dunbar to Edinburgh, the Country may be reckoned as fruitful, pleaſant, and rich, as any in Scotland, or, indeed, as moſt in England. The Sea is on the Right-hand at a moderate Diſtance, and the Hills on the Left, far⯑ther off, which are habitable, and feed large Flocks of Sheep, and have many open Roads leading over them from Edinburgh, and other Parts, towards England.

The moſt material Thing this Country wants, is more incloſed Paſtures, by which the Farmers would be enabled to keep a ſufficient Stock of Cattle well foddered in the Winter, and thereby not only be fur⯑niſhed with Store of Butter, Cheeſe, and Beef for the Market, but likewiſe by the Dung of the Beaſts [...]nrich their Soil, according to the unanſwerable [53] Maxim in graſing, That Stock upon Land improves Land.

Two other Articles would increaſe and enrich them, which they ſeldom or never practiſe:

• 1. Folding their Sheep within moveable Hurdles.
• 2. Fallowing their ploughed Land.

The firſt would fatten the Ground, and the latter deſtroy the Weeds; which would be of great Service to the Land at a Diſtance from the Sea, where they have not the Benefit of Sea-weed, which I have juſt now mentioned.

But at preſent, for want of Incloſures, they have no Winter Proviſion for black Cattle, and therefore the Farmers have no Dairies, no Butter or Cheeſe, in any Quantity, and no Heaps of Dung in their Yards to return upon the Land for its Improvement. Thus a good Soil is impoveriſhed for want of Huſbandry.

From Dunbar we paſs another River Tyne, which, to diſtinguiſh it from the two Tynes in Northumber⯑land, I ſhall call Scots Tyne, tho' not ſo diſtinguiſhed here. It riſes in the Hills near Yeſter, and watering part of the fine and pleaſant Vale I mentioned be⯑fore, runs by Haddingtoun, a Royal Burgh, and an old, half-ruined Town, with the Remains of an old Nunnery. It was formerly large, handſome, and well-built, and reckoned very ſtrong; for beſides the Walls of Stone, which were in thoſe Times eſteemed very good, the Engliſh fortified it with Lines and Baſtions, four of which latter were very large, as may be ſeen by what remains of them to this Day. It had alſo a large Ditch, and was ſo ſtrong, that the Engliſh, commanded by Sir George Wilford, de⯑fended it againſt a great Army of French and Scots, tho' his Gariſon were almoſt all ſwept away by the Plague, till he was relieved from England, when he quitted it, after demoliſhing the Fortifications.

[54]They have a good Stone-bridge here over the Tyne, tho' the River is but ſmall. The Church was large, but has ſuffered in the Ruin of the reſt, and but part of it is repaired, tho' big enough for the Num⯑ber of Inhabitants. There are in it ſome Monu⯑ments remaining of the Duke of Lauderdale, and other Maitlands, ancient Lords of this Part of the Country; but as the Choir of the Church is open and defaced, they have ſuffered with the reſt.

In and about this Place I ſaw ſomething of a Ma⯑nufacture, and a Face of Induſtry, which was the firſt I had hitherto ſeen the leaſt Appearance of in Scotland; particularly, here was a Woollen Manu⯑facture, erected by a Company or Corporation for making Broad-cloth, which they call Engliſh Cloth: And as they had Engliſh Workmen, and Engliſh Wool, they really made it very good; but I cannot ſay they could bring it ſo cheap to the Market as they do in England. This was the Reaſon, that tho' before the late Union, the Engliſh Cloth being pro⯑hibited upon ſevere Penalties, their own Cloth ſup⯑plied them very well; yet, as ſoon as the Union was made, by which the Engliſh Trade was opened, the Clothiers from Worceſter, Glouceſter, Wilts, Somer⯑ſet, and Devonſhire, brought in their Goods, and underſelling the Scots, thoſe Manufacturies were not able to ſtand it. However, the People turn their Hands to other Things, are ſtill employed in Spin⯑ning, Dying, Weaving, &c. and carry on a good deal of that Sort of Buſineſs.

On the North-ſide of the Mouth of the Forth, ſtand the Remains of Tantallon Caſtle, infamous in the Scots Hiſtory for being the Seat of Rebellion in the Reign of King James V. Hence came the odd Fancy among the Soldiers, That the Drums beating the Scots March, which was invented by the King's Soldiers, when they marched againſt the Earl of Angus, who held out this Caſtle againſt him, ſay, [55] Ding down Tantallon. But it is now no more a Fortreſs, being intirely demoliſhed.

Over-againſt this, in the Mouth of the ſame River, ſtands a ſteep Rock, called the Baſs, inacceſſible on all Sides, except by one narrow Paſſage. It was formerly ſlightly fortified, rather to prevent its being made a Retreat for Pirates and Thieves, than for any Uſe it could be of to command the Sea; for the Entrance of the Forth is ſo wide, that Ships can go in and out, without the leaſt Danger of being hurt by any thing that could be offered from the Baſs.

In the Times of the late King Charles II. and his Brother King James VII. it was made a State-Priſon, where the Weſtern People, called in thoſe Days Cameronians, were confined, for being in Arms againſt the King. And after the Revolution a deſpe⯑rate Crew of People got Poſſeſſion of it; and having a large Boat, which they hoiſted up upon the Rock, or let down at Pleaſure, committed ſeveral Piracies, took a great many Veſſels, and held out the laſt of any Place in Great Britain for King James: But their Boat being at laſt either ſeized or loſt, and not being ſeaſonably ſupplied with Proviſions from France, as they uſed to be, they were obliged to ſurrender.

The Solan Geeſe are the principal Inhabitants of this Iſland, a Fowl rare as to its Kind; for they are not found any-where in Britain that I can learn, ex⯑cept here, in ſome of the leſſer Iſlands in the Orcades, and in the Iſland of Ailzye, in the Mouth of the Clyde. They come as certainly at their Seaſon, as the Swallows or Wood-cocks, with this Difference, (if what the People there tell us may be depended on) that they generally come exactly to the very ſame Day of the Month.

They feed moſtly on Herrings, and therefore 'tis obſerved, they come juſt before or with them, and go away with them likewiſe, tho', 'tis evident, they do not follow them; for they go all away to the [56] North, but whither, is not known. As they live on Fiſh, ſo they eat like Fiſh, which, together with their being ſo exceeding fat, makes them, in my Opinion, a very coarſe Diſh, rank, ill-reliſhed, and ſoon gorges the Stomach. But here they are look'd upon as a Dainty.

It is a large Fowl, rather bigger than an ordinary Gooſe. 'Tis web-footed, but its Bill is pointed like a Crane or Heron, only much thicker, and not above five Inches long. When they are coming, they ſend ſome before to fix their Manſion, which, for that Reaſon, are called Scouts. The Inhabitants are careful not to diſturb them till they have built their Neſts, and then they are not to be frightened by any Noiſe whatſoever. They lay but one Egg at a time, which they ſo dextrouſly fix by one End to a Point of the Rock in the middle of the Neſt, that if it be pulled off, 'tis difficult to fix it ſo any more. They hatch it, by holding it faſt under one Foot, and ſeldom leave it till it be hatched. The Fiſh caught by the old ones often ſerve the Inhabitants for Food, and the Sticks they bring to make their Neſts ſupply them with Fewel. They make great Profit both of the Fleſh and Feathers of their young ones, which are taken from their Neſts by one let down the Rock with a Rope. When young, they are of an aſh Colour; but when old, white.

At the Top of the Rock is a freſh-water Spring, with a ſmall Warren for Rabbets; but the Bottom of it is almoſt worn through by the Tide. It was for⯑merly the Poſſeſſion, and ſometimes the Seat, of the antient Family of Lawder, who a long time refuſed to ſell it, tho' often ſolicited to it by ſeveral Kings. King James VI. told the then Laird, He would give him whatever he pleaſed to aſk for it; whereby that Gentleman had a fine Opportunity of making a good Bargain: But after he had told his Majeſty, That he would ſell it upon theſe Terms, and the King deſiring [57] to know what he would aſk, he anſwered, Your Majeſty muſt e'en reſign it to me; for I'll have the ald Craig (i. e. Rock) back again. However, the Fa⯑mily, at laſt, coming to Decay, it was purchaſed by King Charles II.

From hence, keeping the Shore of the Forth, due Weſt, we find a Range of large and populous Vil⯑lages all along the Coaſt, almoſt as far as Leith.

All this Part of the Country is delightfully ſpread with the Seats of Noblemen and Gentlemen; as the Duke of Roxburgh's near Dunbar, the Earl of Had⯑dington's at Tinningham, the Lord Beilhaven's at Beilhaven, and that of the Family of Dalrymple, Earl of Stair, who have fine Seats at the Burgh of North Berwick, (where there is a ſmall, but pretty good Market) Hales, and in the Neighbourhood of this Place.

The Houſe and Eſtate of Dirleton, now in the Family of Niſbet, is pleaſantly ſeated in this Part of the Country; as is Ormiſtoun, a thriving little Town, belonging to the Family of Cockburn; round which they have a handſome Eſtate, ſo well planted and improved, that I don't remember to have ever ſeen a more beautiful Spot of Ground. They have alſo a pretty good Seat here; but when I ſaw it, it was very much out of Repair.

I muſt here add, the antient and noble Houſes of Seton and Winton, both Palaces (for ſo they deſerve to be called) of the late Earl of Winton, who did ſo many weak and raſh Things in the Affair of the late Rebellion. They are now in a State of Ruin, as is the Eſtate on which they ſtand, which, for its Value, is as fine as any in Scotland, lying all conti⯑guous with itſelf, and valued at almoſt 5000l. Sterling per Annum; but all being under Forfeiture, it was ſold to the York-Buildings Company. The fine Gates, and Stone Wall, were demoliſhed by the Govern⯑ment, after it had been made a Gariſon by the [58] Highlanders, who from hence began their hare⯑brain'd March to England, which Expedition ended at Preſton. The Name Seton was given the Fa⯑mily from the Term Set-on, which one of the An⯑ceſtors of it uſed to the Soldiers he commanded, when entering upon an Engagement. They were reckoned a very gallant, as well as loyal Family; and no true Scotſman can well omit telling the memorable Story, That in the Year 1332. when Edward II. came before Berwick, where Sir Alexander Seton was then Governor, he ſummoned him to ſurrender, and threatened to hang his two Sons, whom he had among his Hoſtages, if he delayed. Accordingly a Gallows was erected near the Town Wall, and the young Men led forth. Tenderneſs for his Children began to move the Governor, when his Lady (of the Name of Cheyne) came and told him, He and ſhe were both young enough to have more Children; but if he ſurren⯑dered, he could never recover his Honour. Upon this, he refuſed, and the Tyrant cruelly murdered the young Gentlemen; but the Lady was rewarded with Two Sons afterwards.

The Towns upon this Coaſt, as I ſaid, ſtand very thick; and there are two or three Articles of Trade which render them more populous, and more con⯑ſiderable, than they would otherwiſe be.

• 1. There are great Quantities of white Fiſh taken and cured all along this Coaſt; and I obſerved, that they were very well cured, merchantable, and fit for Exportation.
• 2. There is great Plenty of Coal in the Hills, ſo near the Sea, that the Carriage is eaſy, a great deal of which is carried to Edinburgh, and other Towns thereabouts.
• 3. They make very good Salt at almoſt all the Towns upon the Shore; as at Seton, Cockenny, Preſtonpans, and ſeveral other Places. They have a [59] very great Trade for this Salt to Norway, Ham⯑burgh, Bremen, the Baltick, and even Holland; and the Number of Ships loaded with it here yearly is very conſiderable.
• 4. They take great Quantities of Oyſters here alſo, with which they not only ſupply the City of Edinburgh, but carry abundance of them in large open Boats, called Cobles, as far as Newcaſtle upon Tyne; from whence they generally bring back Glaſs Bottles.

At ſeveral of theſe Villages are little Moles and Harbours, or Peers, built up at a conſiderable Ex⯑pence, for ſecuring the Ships that come to load Salt, and other Goods; as at North Berwick, Aberlady, Preſton, Preſtonpans, which is alſo noted for good Malt Liquor, Cockenny, Port-ſeton, &c.

The Country hereabouts is both pleaſant and po⯑pulous, and full of Gentlemens Houſes; among which is Salton, belonging to Mr. Fletcher.

We came next to Muſſelburgh, an antient Burgh of Regality. In this Town are many Hands em⯑ployed in the Woollen Manufacture, eſpecially in coarſe Stuffs for the Uſe of the Poor; and they have continued many Years ſucceſsfully this Branch of Trade without any Rival.

A little Weſt from this lies Fiſher-raw, ſo called from a very large Row of Houſes moſtly inhabited by Fiſhermen, who were formerly more numerous here than at preſent; for the Muſcle Trade, which was of old reckoned very valuable, is now given over; and their chief Buſineſs, at preſent, conſiſts in catching Cods, Haddocks, Whitings, and ſome few Shell-fiſh.

More to the South are two ſmall Villages, called New-bigging and Good-ſpeed-all; but they are ſo nearly joined to Muſſelburgh and Fiſher-raw, that a [60] Stranger would take them to be all one continued Town. Nevertheleſs, they have not had a Church ſince the Reformation, but are only a Part of the Pariſh of Invereſk, an adjoining Village, ſo called, becauſe it ſtands on the River Eſk, which, tho' it be ſometimes ſo full of Water as to overflow its Banks, yet, being rapid, it is not made navigable.

This Village enjoys ſo good an Air, that the emi⯑nent Dr. Pitcairn called it the Montpelier of Scot⯑land. It is very full of People, and there are ſeveral very handſome Houſes and Gardens in it, which invite the Citizens of Edinburgh to take Lodgings here in the Summer, as the Londoners do at Ken⯑ſington-gravel-pits, Hampſtead, Hackney, and High-gate.

But the Glory and Beauty of this Pariſh is Pinkey, which formerly belonged to Seton, Earl of Dumferm⯑line, but now to the Marquis of Tweedale, who uſually reſided here before his Houſe at Yeſter was finiſhed; which, tho' it be the moſt magnificent Building, yet is not ſo agreeably ſituated as Pinkey, which ſtands near the Sea, juſt as we enter into Muſſelburgh.

In the Court before the Houſe is a large Stone Well, covered with an Imperial Crown of Stone, ſupported by Pillars of the Ionick Order. The great Hall on the Right, as you enter, is adorned with Views of the great Cities of Italy; and in a Drawing-room adjoining to it, is a Billiard-table. The great Stair-caſe on the Left is baluſtraded with Iron, and crowded with Pictures.

The firſt Apartment conſiſts of a Dining-room, Drawing-room, and Bed-chamber, all very ſpaci⯑ous, curiouſly wainſcotted with Oak, and hung with the Seaſons in Tapeſtry, of the ſmall Figures, and beſt Sort. The Bed is of crimſon Velvet in an Alcove, neatly ſupported with Pillars. The Chim⯑neys are of Marble, and above that of the Dining-room [61] is painted the fineſt Inſide of a Church that is any-where to be ſeen.

The great Gallery is very long and ſpacious, the Ceiling whereof is full of Latin Inſcriptions ſuitable to the ſeveral Paintings. Here is a Family Picture of the Lord Seton, with his Four Sons and Daughters, by Hans Holbein; Mr. Henderſon, the Covenanter, by Vandyke; the whole Length of King Charles I. and his Chancellor, the Earl of Dumfermline, in his Robes, by the ſame Hand. The firſt Earl of Twee⯑dale, with his Eight Sons and Seven Daughters, all in one Picture, as big as the Life, takes up almoſt one End of the Room. There are fine Altar-pieces, Paſſion-pieces, and others of that Kind, that were ſaved from Plunder out of Monaſteries at the Refor⯑mation. Here is likewiſe a good Picture of the Earl of Strafford, and another of the Duke of Lau⯑derdale, (who married his only Child to the Heir of this Family) with great Numbers of Family Pictures of the Hays and Setons. There is alſo well preſerved the genealogical Tree of the Family, from the Year 970. to this Time; viz. the Hays, Giffards, and Frazers. But many of the Pictures have been of late carried to Yeſter.

The Parterre behind the Houſe is very large, and nobly adorned with Ever-greens, and on each Side of it ſpacious Gardens. The Whole ſtands in a Park above three Miles in Circumference, well planted with an incredible Number of Fir-trees, and walled round with Stone. I confeſs, if I had been Owner of Pinkey, I ſhould hardly have built Yeſter; for Pin⯑key ſtands nobly, and has a commanding Proſpect, not only over the adjacent Country, but alſo of the Coaſt of Fife, over the Sea, at nine Miles Diſtance: Whereas Yeſter, as I have ſaid, lies in a Bottom, and all its Views bounded within itſelf. Yeſter, 'tis true, is the antient Seat of the Family, whoſe Title to Pinkey is but late, and (ſome ſay) was precarious.

[62]Near this Place was fought a Battle by Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerſet, when he came to force the Scots into the Marriage of their young Queen Mary with his Nephew King Edward VI. which was, by-the-by, a very coarſe way of Wooing. Here was a great Slaughter of the Scots: But tho' the Engliſh won the Battle, yet they loſt their Prize; for the young Queen was privately embarked, carried to France, and afterwards married to the Dauphin, who became King Francis II.

The Engliſh call this the Battle of Muſſelburgh; but ſome Scots Gentlemen, riding out with us, to ſhew us the Place where the Action was begun and ended, we all agreed, that the Scots are in the right, who call it the Battle of Pinkey.

I now approached the capital City of Edinburgh; but muſt ſay a Word or two of its Situation, before I enter it. Standing then at a ſmall Diſtance, and taking a View of it from the Eaſt, you have really but a very confuſed Idea of the City, becauſe the Situation being in Length from Eaſt to Weſt, and the Breadth ill-proportioned to it, you view it under the greateſt Diſadvantage poſſible; whereas, if you turn a little to the Right-hand towards Leith, you have a very handſome Proſpect of it; and from the South you ſee it to yet more Advantage, becauſe it is increaſed on that Side with new Streets.

At the Extremity of the Eaſt-end of the City ſtands the Palace of Holy-rood-houſe; leaving which, a little to the Left, you come thro' a populous Sub⯑urb to the Entrance, called the Water-port. From hence, turning Weſt, the Street goes on in a ſtrait Line, thro' the whole City to the Caſtle. It is above a Mile in Length, and is, perhaps, the largeſt, longeſt, and fineſt Street, for Buildings, and Number of Inhabitants, in the World.

From the Palace Door, which ſtands on a Level with the loweſt of the plain Country, the Street [63] begins to aſcend very gradually, being no-where ſteep; but this Aſcent being continued for ſo long a Way, it is eaſy to underſtand, that the further Part muſt neceſſarily be very high; for the Caſtle, which ſtands, as it were, at the Extremity Weſt, as the Palace does Eaſt, makes, on all the three Sides, (that only excepted, which joins it to the City) a frightful and impaſſable Precipice.

Together with this continued Aſcent, you are to ſuppoſe the Edge or Top of the Aſcent ſo narrow, that the Street, and the Row of Houſes on each Side, take up the whole Breadth; ſo that which way ſoever you turn, you go down Hill imme⯑diately; which is ſo ſteep, that it is very troubleſome to thoſe who have not very good Lungs, to walk in thoſe Side-lanes, which they call Wynds. By this Deſcription you will perceive, that the City ſtands upon the narrow Ridge of a long aſcending Mountain.

On the North-ſide of the City, towards the Weſt-end of it, where the Caſtle ſtands, is a Lough, or Lake of Water; which has a ſmall Brook that runs thro' it, ſo that it cannot be ſaid to be quite ſtand⯑ing. There was formerly another Lake on the South-ſide of it, which, being now filled up, is built into a Street, tho' ſo much lower than the high Street, that, as I ſaid before, the Lanes between them are very ſteep.

The Town is ſo antient, that no Hiſtory has recorded when, by whom, or on what Occaſion, it was built; yet, it ſeems moſt natural to conclude, that ſuch a Situation could not be choſen, but for a Retreat from the Outrages and Attempts of the Britons, Saxons, Danes, or other Enemies; for having an impregnable Caſtle at the Weſt-end, and a Lake on either Side, the Inhabitants had nothing to defend but the Entrance at the Eaſt-end, which it was eaſy to fortify.

[64]If this was not the Reaſon for chuſing the Situa⯑tion, what ſhould have hindered them from building the City in a pleaſant, delightful Valley, with the Sea flowing up to one Side, and a River running thro' the Middle of it? ſuch as that Space of Ground between it and the Sea, where the Town of Leith ſtands. There they would have had a noble, plea⯑ſant, and moſt uſeful Situation, a very fine Harbour for their Trade, a good Road in the Firth for their Ships of Burden; a pleaſant River, which, with ſmall Art and Charge, might have been ſo drawn round the City as to have filled its Ditches, and made its Fortifications almoſt impregnable, as the French did, when they fortified Leith. Or had they gone to the South-ſide of the City, and extended it to⯑wards Libertoun and Goodtrees, they had found a Plain large enough to have contained another London, watered on the South-part with a pleaſant Brook, capable, by the Help of Pipes, to have conveyed Water into every Street and Houſe.

Theſe Things they did not foreſee, or not under⯑ſtand in thoſe Days; but, regarding immediate Safety, fixed on the Hill, as a ſure Strength, formed by Nature, ready at their Hand. By this means, the City lies under ſuch Inconveniencies as are made a Subject of Scorn and Reproach by ſome, as if the People delighted in Stench and Naſtineſs; whereas, were any other People to live under the ſame Unhap⯑pineſs of a rocky and mountainous Situation, a Throng of Buildings from ſix to ten Stories high, a Difficulty of obtaining Water, (that little they have being to be carried up to the uppermoſt Apartments) we ſhould find a London or a Briſtol as dirty as Edin⯑burgh, and, perhaps, leſs able to make their Dwel⯑ling tolerable, at leaſt in ſo narrow a Compaſs; for tho' many Cities have more People in them, yet, I believe, there is none in the World, where ſo many People live in ſo little Room.

[65]On the North-ſide of the City, as I have ſaid, is a ſpacious, rich, and pleaſant Plain, extending from the Lake, which joins it, to the River of Leith, at the Mouth of which is the Town of Leith, at the Diſtance of a long Scots Mile. Here, were not the North-ſide of the Hill which the City ſtands on, ſo exceeding ſteep, that it is not only impaſſable for Carriages, but can hardly be clambered up on Foot, and were the Lake filled up, as that on the other Side is, the City might have been extended upon the Plain below, and fine Streets would, no doubt, have been built: Nay, I queſtion much, whether, in time, the high Streets would not have been for⯑ſaken, and the City, as I may ſay, run all out of its Gates to the North.

This might have been the Conſequence, if the City had been in a State of Increaſe; for had their Trade flouriſhed, as was reaſonably expected, if the Buſineſs of Darien had ſucceeded, or upon the Union, the Inhabitants would have likewiſe increaſed.

Having thus conſidered the City in its outward Appearance, and in its Situation, I muſt look next into its Inſide, where we ſhall find it (notwithſtand⯑ing all its Diſcouragements and Diſadvantages) a large, populous, noble, rich, and even Royal City. The main Street, as above, is the moſt ſpacious and beſt inhabited in Europe. The Buildings are ſurpriſing for their Strength, their Beauty, and their Height, and are moſtly of Free-ſtone; yet ſo firm, that tho' they ſtand ſo high, and in a Country where Storms and violent Winds are ſo frequent, 'tis very rare, and only on ſuch Occaſions as I ſhall mention by-and-by, that any Damage is done here.

From the Palace-gate Weſtward, this Street is called the Canongate, as belonging to the Canons of the Abbey, which is a kind of Suburb by itſelf, as Southwark is to London. In this Part of the Street, tho' otherwiſe not ſo well inhabited as the City itſelf, [66] are ſeveral very magnificent Houſes of the Nobility, built for their Reſidence when the Court was here. Of theſe the Duke of Queenſbury's, the Earl of Winton's, the Duke of Roxburgh's, the Earl of Panmure's, and the Earl of Murray's, are the chief: The firſt and laſt are very large and princely Build⯑ings, all of Free-ſtone, large in Front, and have good Gardens behind them.

At the Upper or Weſt-end of this Street, where it joins to the City, is a Gate, which, like Ludgate, parts the City from the Suburb, but does not diſ⯑continue the Street, which rather widens, and is more ſpacious, when you are thro' the Gate, than before. This is the famous Nether-bow Port, whoſe Doors were like to have been taken away by the Par⯑liament, when the Affair of Captain Porteous was under their Conſideration, as I ſhall mention more particularly by-and-by.

Juſt at this Gate, on the Outſide, are two Streets, one of which is called St. Mary Wynd, and the other Leith Wynd; the firſt leads out of the City, South, into the great Road for England, by the Way of Kelſo; and at the Foot of it is a Gate turning Weſt⯑ward into the low Street, called the Cowgate, be⯑cauſe the Cattle are driven thro' it to and from the great Market-place: The other leads North into a Suburb, called the Calton, from whence there is a very handſome Gravel-walk, 20 Feet broad, con⯑tinued to the Town of Leith, which is kept in Re⯑pair at the publick Charge, and no Horſes ſuffered to come upon it.

We now enter the City at the Nether-bow Port, and have an open View up the high Street. It muſt not be expected I ſhould deſcribe all the Buildings of the City; I ſhall therefore touch upon ſome few, and go on. The firſt of any Note is a fine Houſe on the South-ſide of the Street, a little within the Gate, belonging to the Marquis of Tweedale, with a [67] Plantation of Lime-trees behind it, the Place not allowing Room for a large Garden: Adjoining to this are very good Buildings, which, if ſet out in handſome Streets, would adorn a very noble City; but being crouded together in narrow Wynds and Alleys, deſerve no Notice.

A little further, on the ſame Side, is the Trone Kirk; and near it, in the Middle of the Street, ſtands the Guard-houſe, where two Companies of diſci⯑plined Men, cloathed and armed like Grenadiers at the Charge of the Town, do Duty every Night, and keep the publick Peace of the City.

About Mid-way between the Nether-bow and the Caſtle, is the great Church, which, before the Re⯑formation, was Collegiate, and dedicated to St. Gyles; but it was afterwards divided into ſeveral Preaching-places, and Diſtricts of the City were allotted to them, ſo as to be parochial. When King Charles I. erected a new Biſhoprick at Edinburgh, which be⯑fore that time was in the Dioceſe of St. Andrews, it was made a Cathedral, and the Dean was Forenoon Miniſter of that Part of it, called the New Kirk, which is the Choir, Chancel, or Eaſtern Part. In it is a noble Gallery for the King, or his Commiſ⯑ſioner. Here alſo the Magiſtrates aſſemble, and the Judges in their Habits, in time of Seſſion. In a large Chapel, on the South-weſt Part of this Church, the General Aſſembly hold their Seſſions, as does alſo the Commiſſion of the Aſſembly, in the Interval be⯑tween the General Meetings.

The great Croſs under the Tower is called the Old Kirk; and the Front or Weſt-part of the great Church is divided into two Parts: That on the South is called the Tolbooth Kirk, and that on the North Haddo's Hole, from the Laird of Haddo, (Grandfather to the preſent Earl of Aberdeen) who being a great Royaliſt and Anti-covenanter, was kept Priſoner in a Vault there, till he was beheaded.

[68]The Steeple in the Middle is very high, and of good Architecture; the Summit of it reſembles an Impe⯑rial Crown. Here they have a Set of Bells, which are not rung out as in England, (for that way of Ringing is not known in this Country) but are played upon by the Hand with Keys, like a Harpſichord, the Perſon playing having great Leather Covers to his Fiſts, by which he is able to ſtrike with the more Force. They play all manner of Tunes very muſi⯑cally, and the Town gives a Man a yearly Salary for playing upon them from half an Hour after Eleven, till half an Hour after Twelve, every Day, Sundays and Holidays excepted.

On the South-ſide of this Church (formerly the Church-yard) is a Square of very fine Buildings, called the Parliament Cloſe, the Weſt and South-ſides of which are moſtly taken up with the Parliament-houſe, the ſeveral Courts of Juſtice, the Council-chamber, the Exchequer, the publick Regiſters, the Court for the Royal Boroughs to aſſemble in, the Lawyers Library, the Poſt Office, &c. The great Church makes up the North-ſide of the Square, and the Eaſt and Part of the South-ſide is built into pri⯑vate Dwellings very ſtately, lofty, and ſtrong, being ſeven Stories high to the Front of the Square, and the Hill they ſtand on having a very ſteep Deſcent, ſome of them are no leſs than fourteen Stories high backwards. In the middle of this Square is an Eque⯑ſtrian Statue of King Charles II. which is reckoned the fineſt of its kind in Europe.

The Parliament-houſe is a ſtately, convenient, and large Structure. Over its Entrance are the Arms of Scotland well cut, with Mercy and Truth on each Side, for Supporters; and this Inſcription, Stant his felicia regna; importing, that theſe Virtues make Kingdoms happy. And under the Arms was this Motto, Unio Unionum; relating not only to the Union of the two Crowns, but ſignifying, that [69] their Advice was neceſſary for the Maintenance of it. The Room for meeting of the Parliament had, on that Occaſion, a high Throne for the Sovereign, or the Commiſſioner, with Benches on each Side for the Nobility and Biſhops, and Forms conve⯑niently placed in the Middle, for the Commoners. Without the Area was a Pulpit for Sermons to the Parliament, on particular Occaſions; and be⯑hind the Pulpit a large Partition for others, be⯑ſides Members, to hear the Sermons, and Debates of the Houſe, when they thought fit to allow it. This Building, in ſome meaſure, reſembles Weſtminſter-hall, and tho' not quite ſo large, has a much more curious Roof. In the South or Upper-end, one of the ordinary Judges ſits every Week in Seſſion-time, to hear Cauſes in the firſt Inſtance: But when the Parliament ſat, that Court was removed to another Part of the Hall. At the Weſt-end of it are kept the Sheriff and Commiſſary Courts. Near the North-end is the Town Council-houſe or Guild-hall, and over it is the Juſtciary or Criminal Court. At the South-eaſt Part of the Parliament-houſe, is a Door from what they call the Outer-houſe (where the Lord Ordinary ſits) into the Inner, where ſit the other Fourteen Judges, or Lords of Seſſion; which is the ſupreme Civil Judicature of Scotland. Over which are Apartments for the Lords of Exchequer, and for the Privy-council when in Being.

In the Lower-part under the Parliament-houſe, is a noble Library of Books and MSS. belonging to the College of Juſtice, or Gentlemen of the Law.

Near the Council-chamber ſtands the Royal Ex⯑change, made up of a double Row of Shops, and another Exchange inferior to this.

The great Opening into the high Street, being the only Paſſage into it for Coaches, is at the North-eaſt Corner, a little from which is the Market-croſs, where all their Proclamations and publick Acts are [70] read and publiſhed by Heralds and Sound of Trum⯑pet. Here is the great Parade, where Gentlemen meet for Buſineſs or News, as at the Exchange, every Day from Eleven to One.

Near the Weſt-end of the great Church ſtands the Tolbooth, or common Priſon, as well for Criminals as for Debtors. It was formerly the Place of Reſi⯑dence for the Provoſt of St. Gyles's, as moſt of the adjacent Houſes were for the Canons and Choiriſters of that Church.

The great Church and this Priſon both ſtanding in the middle of the Street, the Breadth and Beauty of it is for ſome Space interrupted; but thoſe Build⯑ings paſt, the Street opens again to its former Breadth, and is now called the Lawn-market, from the Linen-market being kept here. This Part of the Street extends Weſt to a narrower one, which leads to the Caſtle-hill. At the Upper-end of it is a Stone Build⯑ing appropriated to ſeveral publick Offices of leſſer Value, called the Weigh-houſe; for below Stairs are Ware-houſes, with publick Weights and Scales for weighing heavy Goods.

Here the high Street parts into two, one of which leads to the Caſtle Hill, as already noticed, and the other turns South-weſt, and deſcending gradually, leads to the Graſs-market, a Place very like Smith⯑field in every reſpect, where is kept a weekly Mar⯑ket for Black Cattle, Sheep, Horſes, &c. This Street, which is called the Weſt-bow, is inhabited moſtly by wholeſale Dealers in Iron, Pitch, Tar, Oil, Hemp, Flax, Linſeed, Drugs, Woads, and ſuch-like heavy Goods.

This City hath ſeven Gates, or Ports, as they are here called, viz.

• 1. The Nether-bow Port: This is the chief Gate; it was magnificently built in 1606. and adorn'd with Towers on both Sides. This is the Entrance from the [71] Palace, and the principal Suburb called the Canon-gate.
• 2. The Cow-gate Port, at the Eaſt-end, likewiſe gives Entrance to the Street of that Name, leading to the Abbey by a Backway.
• 3. The Potter-row Port, gives Entrance to the Suburb ſo called, and leads to Dalkeith, Kelſo, &c. Southward.
• 4. The Society Port, called ſo from the Society of Brewers, who have a great ſquare Court near it, with ſtately Houſes and Buildings round it.
• 5. The Weſt Port, the only Gate at the Weſt-end of the City, which leads thro' a large Suburb to Glaſgow, Sterling, Queens-ferry, and from thence to the Weſt and North Highlands.
• 6. The New Port, at the Eaſt-end of the Lake, leading Northward towards a Village called Mouter's Hill and Leith.
• 7. The College-Kirk Port, leading alſo to Leith.

The Markets here are very well ſupplied with all the Neceſſaries of Life, and are moſtly kept in diſtinct Market-places walled in, and reſerved for the parti⯑cular Things they are appointed for; ſuch as

• 1. The Meal Market.
• 2. The Fleſh Market.
• 3. The Poultry Market.
• 4. The Fiſh Market.
• 5. The Corn Market.
• 6. The Leather Market.

Beſides theſe, there is a Weekly Market for all Sorts of Woollen Manufactures, and Linen Cloth, kept in that Part of the high Street called the Lawn Market, juſt now mentioned. There is alſo in the ſame Street, below the Croſs, an Herb and Fruit Market kept every Morning, but abates before Noon, ſo that it is no Incumbrance. The Market for Black Cattle, Sheep, Horſes, and Graſs, is kept in that [72] large Space of Ground within the Weſt Port, called the Graſs Market, as I have already mentioned.

On the South-ſide of the City, towards the Eaſt-end, ſtands a large Building, erected at the Charge of the Surgeons and Apothecaries of this City, in which is their great Hall, hung round with the Pi⯑ctures of all the Surgeons of this Place that have been ſince this Building was founded. Here they have alſo a Theatre for Diſſections, and a Chamber of Rarities, in which there are ſeveral Skeletons of uncommon Creatures, a Mummy, and other Cu⯑rioſities.

Near the Potter-row Port ſtands the College, or Univerſity. It conſiſts of three Courts, two lower, and one higher, equal to the other two. Theſe Courts are encompaſſed with neat Buildings for the Uſe of ſuch Students as pleaſe to lodge in them; for they don't live in common, nor are they obliged to reſide, but only to attend their Claſſes at certain Hours. There is a high Tower over the great Gate, looking to the City.

The Publick Schools are large and commodious; there are Accommodations for Students, handſome Dwellings for the Profeſſors, and fine Gardens for their Recreation. It was founded in 1580. by King James VI. upon a Petition from the City, to grant them a Charter with the Privilege of an Univerſity; but the Foundation was not perfected till 1582. The Perſons eſtabliſhed by the Foundation were, a Principal or Primate, a Profeſſor of Divinity, four Regents or Maſters of Philoſophy, and a Profeſſor of Philology called Prof. Humaniorum Literarum, or Regent of Humanity. In 1640. the Town added a Profeſſor of Mathematicks. To which have been lately added Profeſſors of Eccleſiaſtical Hiſtory, Civil Law, Theoretical and Practical Me⯑dicine, Chymiſtry, &c. The Dignity of Chancellor [73] and Vice-chancellor of the Univerſity is in the Lord-Provoſt and Town Council.

They have a very good Library, which was founded by Clement Little, one of the Commiſſaries of Edinburgh; ſince which it is much increaſed by Donations from the Citizens, Perſons of Quality, and others, who had their Education there. The Library is neatly kept, well furniſhed with Books, put in very good Order, cloiſter'd with Wire Doors, which none but the Keeper can open, which is more commodious, and leſs encumbering, than Multitudes of Chains, commonly uſed in other Libraries. The Books given by the grand Benefactors, are kept in diſtinct Apartments, and the Donor's Name over them in Letters of Gold.

Over the Books hang the Pictures of ſeveral Princes, and of the moſt eminent Reformers at Home and Abroad; and near them is kept the Skull of the fa⯑mous Buchanan, very intire, and ſo thin, that the Light may be ſeen thro' it. It was depoſited there by Mr. Adamſon, formerly Principal of the Univerſity, who procured it to be taken out of his Grave, and faſtened ſome Latin Verſes to it in Commendation of that celebrated Hiſtorian. There is alſo the Ori⯑ginal of the Bohemian Proteſt againſt the Council of Conſtance, for burning John Hus and Jerom of Prague, Anno 1417. with 105 Seals of Bohemian and Moravian Grandees annexed to it. It was pro⯑cured by a Scots Gentleman in his Travels, and given to the Univerſity.

Under the Library was the King's Printing-houſe, for Bibles, &c. At the farther End of the Library is a Stair-caſe, which leads to the higher and lower Common Halls, where they hold their Commence⯑ments and College Entertainmenrs. In this Place are ſeveral Maps, Globes, Books, and Rarities; and among others a crooked Horn, cut out of a Woman's Head when fifty Years old, and who lived twelve [74] Years after it. It is ſeveral Inches long, and was taken out of her Head by a Surgeon, Anno 1671. Here alſo are Lectures read, Exerciſes performed, and Apartments for the Profeſſor of Divinity to teach his Pupils in, and for a ſelect Library proper for Divines.

In this higher Common Hall, which is a very ſpa⯑cious Room, are placed ſuch Books as have been bought by, or given to the College, ſince the Li⯑brary below was full; and in the South-end of it is a curious and noble Muſeum, collected by the very eminent Sir Andrew Balfour, who was once Tutor to the famous Earl of Rocheſter. It contains a vaſt Treaſure of Curioſities of Art and Nature, domeſtick and foreign, from almoſt all Parts of the World, and is greatly valued by the Virtuoſo's, containing ſome Rarities that are not to be found, either in thoſe of the Royal Society at London, or the Aſhmolean at Oxford. Sir Robert Sibbald, having a mind to engraft his Name and Merit, on that of the celebrated Balfour, made a Preſent of a great Number of Shells, and other Curioſities, to the College, on Condition the Magiſtrates would print the Account of it, called, Auctarium Muſei Balfouriani e Muſeo Sib⯑baldiano; to which I refer the Reader.

Eaſtward from the College is the High-School, well endow'd, and with proper Apartments for one Maſter and four Uſhers, who teach Youth Grammar and Rhetorick.

In Gray's-cloſe, near the Cowgate Port, is the Mint-houſe, in a large Court, with neat and con⯑venient Buildings, and other Accommodations for the Maſter, Officers, and Workmen. It is now diſuſed for that Purpoſe; and is a Sanctuary, or Place of Privilege.

At a ſmall Diſtance from the College are two neat Hoſpitals, with pretty Gardens to each of them; and a little further is the Church-yard of the Franciſcans, or Gr [...]y-friars, the common Burial-place for the [75] whole City within the Walls, where are a great many fine and curious Monuments. It contains about two Acres of Ground.

Adjoining to it is Heriot's Hoſpital, a large and ſtately Building, the moſt magnificent of its Kind in the World, adorned with a conſecrated Chapel, large Walks, delightful Greens, and pleaſant Gardens. It was built by the Rev. Dr. Balcanqual, to whom George Heriot, Jeweller to King James VI. left near 17000 Pounds, to be diſpoſed of in pious Uſes, which that worthy Dean did by building and endowing this Houſe, and giving Statutes to it, which he ordered ſhould be unalterable. 'Tis a Nurſery for an inde⯑finite Number of the Sons of Freemen, who are maintained, cloathed, and educated in uſeful Learning, till they are fit for Apprenticeſhips, or to go to the Univerſity, where they are allowed handſome Salaries and Exhibitions.

On the South-ſide of the City, in the way to Leith, is a beautiful Collegiate Church, built by Queen Mary of Guelders, Queen to King James II. and dedicated to the Holy Trinity, but now Parochial, tho' nothing but the Church Part was ever finiſhed.

Near it is St. Thomas's Hoſpital; wherein old decayed Citizens, and their Widows, are very de⯑cently provided for, and allowed a Chaplain.

Over-againſt it is Bridewell, or the Houſe of Cor⯑rection, in which diſſolute People undergo Diſcipline, and are kept to hard Labour. There is an Apart⯑ment in it for lunatick and diſtracted Perſons.

Of late Years, Mrs. Hare left a noble Benefaction for a new Hoſpital for Female Orphans of decay'd Freemen; which created a laudable Emulation in many others, whoſe united Contributions have raiſed another, for the ſame good Purpoſe.

An Infirmary, called the Royal Infirmary, after the Example of thoſe at London, Wincheſter, &c. has been lately erected at Edinburgh, by the liberal [76] Contribution of many well-diſpoſed Perſons; and there was ſo general a Good-will to the Work, that the like Spirit has hardly ever been known any-where. The Proprietors of ſeveral Stone-Quarries made Pre⯑ſents of Stone to it, others of Lime. Merchants contributed Timber. The Wrights and Maſons were not wanting in their Contributions: The neighbour⯑ing Farmers agreed to carry Materials gratis: The Journeymen Maſons contributed their Labour for a certain Quantity of hewn Stones; and as this Under⯑taking is for the Relief of the diſeaſed, lame, and maimed Poor, even the Day-labourers would not be exempted, but conditioned to work a Day in a Month gratis to the Erection. The Ladies too con⯑tributed in their own way to it; for they appointed an Aſſembly for the Benefit of the Work; and it be⯑ing well-attended, every one contributed bountifully to it. It has met with no ſmall Encouragement from the Nobility and Gentry; and his Majeſty was pleaſed to give 100l. towards it: So that it is really a noble Work, and is now in a flouriſhing Condition. The following is the Inſcription on the firſt Stone: ‘The Royal Infirmary at Edinburgh,
Founded Aug. 2. 1738.
Earl Cromarty, G. M.’

Another neceſſary Charity was ſetting on foot, as a Correſpondent writes me word, in a Letter dated Edinburgh, July 24. 1740. and it is to be hoped will be attended with the deſired Succeſs. The following is an Abſtract of the Letter:

What will be done in this Caſe, I cannot judge; but my Friend has ſet it forth with ſo much honeſt Warmth, and good Senſe, that nothing need be added to it, to ſhew the Neceſſity of ſo excellent a Deſign.

[78]The Phyſicians were incorporated in 1682. by King Charles II. and have their College near the Nether-bow in the Fountain-cloſe. They are deſerv⯑edly eſteemed learned and able, and give not place to the Phyſicians of any Country. The late Dr. Pitcairn has left behind him ample Teſtimonies of his Skill in Nature and Medicine, and bore a Cha⯑racter that no Man of his Time, abroad or at home, eclipſed.

On the North-ſide of the City is an excellent Phyſick-garden, containing ſome thouſands of Exo⯑tick Plants and Simples. The late learned and in⯑duſtrious Mr. James Sutherland, its then Intendant, publiſhed an Account of it in 1684. under the Title of Hortus Medicus Edinburgenſis. They are all diſ⯑poſed into the moſt rational Method, according to that of the learned Dr. Moriſon, the late Oxford Botaniſt, a Native of Scotland.

The City is govern'd by a Lord-Provoſt, whoſe Office is much the ſame as that of the Lord Mayor of London; four Bailiffs, who, beſides the Power of Aldermen in the Government of this City, have that of Sheriffs, and a common Council, ordinarily conſiſting of twenty-five Perſons, but extraordina⯑rily of thirty-eight. All theſe are choſen annually; and the Provoſt, Dean of Guild, and Treaſurer, are to be Merchants; or if any Tradeſman be choſen, he muſt quit his Trade, and not return to it with⯑out Leave of the Magiſtrates and Town-Council; and he muſt alſo be a Year or two a Member of the common Council. No one is to continue in the Council above two Years at a time, except he be a Member of it by virtue of a ſuperior Office. The Bailiffs are to be choſen indifferently out of twelve Candidates propoſed, and none is to be elected Deacon of any of the fourteen incorporated Trades, except he has been Maſter of his Trade two Years at leaſt; and [79] muſt not continue Deacon above two Years at a time. The fourteen incorporated Trades are;

• Chirurgeons.
• Goldſmiths.
• Skinners.
• Farriers.
• Hammermen.
• Wrights.
• Maſons.
• Taylors.
• Bakers.
• Butchers.
• Cordwainers.
• Weavers.
• Wakers, i. e. Fullers.
• Bonnet-makers.

The Magiſtrates are choſen annually upon the Tueſday next after Michaelmas-day, by thirty-eight Electors, whereof twenty are to be Merchants and Tradeſmen, who are to chuſe ſuch as in their Con⯑ſcience they think beſt qualify'd; and theſe Magi⯑ſtrates, and the Town-Council, have the Adminiſtra⯑tion of the Government, except in ſome reſerved Caſes; as the Election of Magiſtrates, Dean of Guild and Treaſurer, and ſetting of Fews or Leaſes, giving Boundaries and Places, and other publick Matters; in which Caſes they are to conſult the fourteen Deacons of Trades.

None of the Merchants or Traders are to have any particular Conventions, or make any By-laws among themſelves without Conſent of the Magiſtrates and Town-Council, except to chuſe their own Deacons at the appointed Time, to make Perſons free of their Trade, or to try their Work; and one of the Com⯑miſſioners for Parliament was always to be choſen out of the Tradeſmen, and another out of the Merchants. The Auditors of Accounts are to be choſen out of an equal Number of both. The Lord-Provoſt, Dean of Guild, and Treaſurer, are not to continue longer than two Years at a time; and the Bailiff muſt be one Year a Bailiff, one Year old Bailiff, and one Year free of Office. Before the Union, the [80] Lord-Provoſt for the Time being was always one of the Privy Council.

The Trained Bands of the City conſiſt of ſixteen Companies; beſides which they have a ſtanding Com⯑pany of Town Guards.

And here it will be proper to take notice of the notorious Riot committed in this City on the 7th of Sept. 1736. in relation to Capt. Porteous, which made ſo much Noiſe, and brought down upon this famous City the Reſentment of the Legiſlature of Great Britain.

The Caſe was this: One Andrew Wilſon was con⯑demned for a Robbery of the publick Money, com⯑mitted on the Highway; and on Wedneſday, the 14th of April 1736. the Day appointed for his Ex⯑ecution, the Magiſtrates, being apprehenſive that a Reſcue would be attempted, ordered Capt. John Porteous, at the Head of a Detachment of the City Guard, to attend the Execution; and Powder and Ball were delivered to them for that Purpoſe. That while Wilſon was hanging, the Populace, inſiſting he ſhould be cut down before the uſual Time, and being refuſed, attempted to do it by Force, and meeting Oppoſition from the Captain and his Guard, they outrageouſly pelted them with Stones, and hurt ſeveral of the Detachment. That hereupon the Captain order'd them, as he was accus'd, but which he deny'd, to fire; and upon the Mob continuing their Inſults, and the Captain's Men firing over their Heads to intimidate them, the Captain order'd them to level their Pieces, and fired himſelf, both which however he deny'd; and by that means ſix Perſons were mortally wounded, and fourteen others very deſperately maimed and hurt. That hereupon the Captain was brought to his Tryal, and on a very ſolemn Hearing, was found guilty of firing a Gun himſelf, and ordering his Men to fire; and ſo was condemn'd to be hang'd upon a Gibbet, on the [81] 8th of Sept. 1736. The Captain drew up a Petition to her late Majeſty, then Regent of the Kingdom, in the Abſence of the King; and inſiſted on his Innocency, praying for Mercy; and great Appli⯑cation having been made to her Majeſty for changing the Sentence to Tranſportation, a Reprieve for ſix Weeks, was granted. Which arriving, on the 2d of September, at Edinburgh, occaſion'd the moſt extraordinary Riot that ever was known or heard of, all Circumſtances conſidered, except that at York againſt the Jews, mentioned in its Place.

For, on the 7th of September, the Night before the Captain was to be executed, had he not been reprieved, about ten at Night, ſome Men by Surprize enter'd the City, ſeized all the Fire-arms, Battle-axes, and Drums belonging to the City Guard.

The Mob hereupon, in a few Minutes, lock'd and ſecur'd all the City Gates, and with Drums beating an Alarm, attempted with Hammers, and other Inſtruments, to force open the [Tolbooth] Pri⯑ſon-door: But failing, they deſperately ſet Fire to it, and burnt it. When they entered the Priſon, they made the Under-keeper open the double Locks of the Apartment where the Captain was. He begg'd in vain to be ſpared till the Afternoon; and making ſome Reſiſtance, they dragg'd him down Stairs by his Legs, and hurried him away. This was about eleven at Night, and they march'd out with Lights before them. In their Way to the Graſs-market, paſſing by a Barber's Sign-poſt, ſome called out to hang him up there; but it was reſolved to hang him where the Murders, for which he was condemn'd, were committed. So they proceeded to the Place where, on Executions, the Gallows uſed to be fixed; where they kept him above a Quarter of an Hour, till they open'd a Shop, and brought out a Rope, one End of which they threw over a Sign⯑poſt about 20 Feet high. He deſir'd ſome Time to [82] prepare for Death; but was anſwer'd, They would al⯑low him no more than thoſe had who were ſhot. They then pull'd him up in the Dreſs in which they found him; viz. a Night-gown and Cap: His Hands not being ty'd, he fix'd them betwixt his Neck and the Rope, whereupon one with a Battle-ax ſtruck at his Hands. They then let him down, and he having on two Shirts, they wrapt one of them about his Face, and ty'd his Arms with his Night-gown, and then pull'd him up again, where he hung next Morning till Day-light; when he was cut down, and carried to the Grey-fryars Church. Upon in⯑ſpecting his Body, it appear'd his Left-ſhoulder was wounded, his Back diſcolour'd, and his Neck broke. He deny'd his giving Orders to fire, with his laſt Breath.

It was obſerv'd, that this Mob was under a ſtricter Concert, and better Conduct, than uſual; for, march⯑ing along to the Execution, the unhappy Man ob⯑ſerving a Gentleman of his Acquaintance, he gave him a Purſe of twenty-three Guineas, which he deſir'd might be deliver'd to his Brother; which they offer'd not to obſtruct. They left indeed the Priſon⯑doors open, whereby ſeveral Priſoners eſcaped; but after they had perpetrated the unprecedented Fact, they left the Arms and Drums at the Place of Exe⯑cution, where they were found next Morning. Moreover, during the Tumult, Parties of armed Men, with Drums, patrolled in the different Streets, to prevent any Surprize from the King's Forces quarter'd in the Suburbs. The Magiſtrates, attended with ſeveral of the Burgeſſes, attempted, as was ſaid, to diſperſe the Mob; but were pelted with Stones, and threaten'd with Fire-arms, if they did not re⯑tire. After the Execution was over, they went to the Lord-Provoſt's Houſe, and telling him they were ſatisfy'd, departed, without offering any other Violence. Nay, it was ſaid, that to do the Act [83] with more Decency, having no Clergyman, they order'd two of the graveſt among them to exhort the unhappy Man, as they carry'd him to Exe⯑cution.

The Boldneſs, Secrecy, and Conduct of this En⯑terprize, was the moſt extraordinary Inſtance of its kind that ever was known; and the Keeper de⯑claring, that tho' the Perſons who firſt enter'd, and demanded the Keys, wore Leather Aprons, but were otherwiſe well dreſs'd, it made ſome imagine, that Perſons above the vulgar Rank had a hand in it.

Be this as it would, the Inſult on the Sovereign Authority was too flagrant to be overlook'd. Pro⯑clamations, with Rewards of 200l. Sterling, were iſſued for apprehending the Rioters; and when the Parliament met, vigorous Meaſures were taken in the Affair. The Lord-Provoſt was order'd up to London in Cuſtody, the Magiſtrates were order'd up alſo, to attend the Houſe of Lords at London; and finally, an Act of Parliament was paſſed, to diſable Alexander Wilſon, Eſq from holding or enjoying any Office of Magiſtracy in Edinburgh, or Great Britain; a new Provoſt was injoin'd to be choſen, and a Fine of Two thouſand Pounds levied upon the City of Edinburgh for the Uſe of the Widow of Captain Porteous, as Puniſhments for their reſpective Re⯑miſſneſſes in not endeavouring to prevent this Inſult on Sovereignty, and all lawful Authority.

This Act, however, paſſed not without great De⯑bates; and as ſome thought it impoſſible to prevent a Deſign ſo well concerted, and ſo ſuddenly and boldly executed, they were of Opinion, that the City of Edinburgh was treated with too much Severity. But, after all, it could not be expected, but that the Legiſlature ſhould ſhew the higheſt Indignation againſt ſo inſolent a Riot.

This Act was paſſed in the 10th Year of his Ma⯑jeſty, and in the ſame Seſſion was alſo paſſed another, [84] for the more effectual bringing to Juſtice any Per⯑ſons concern'd in this ſtrange Attempt; in which Fugitives not ſurrendering were made liable to Death: The concealing of thoſe who ſhould be declared Fugitives, was alſo made Death: This Act was to be read before Morning Sermon in every Church of Scotland, every Sunday for a Year: Impeachers were to be encouraged, and diſcharged; Informers re⯑warded with 200l. Sterling for every Perſon they ſhould convict, and be admitted Witneſſes.

But ſo ſecretly was this dark Affair managed, that I don't remember any body has ſuffer'd on the Ac⯑count; and the reading of the Act was but indif⯑ferently digeſted by many in that Kingdom.

Greater Severity was intended; ſuch as the im⯑priſoning, as well as diſqualifying the Lord-Provoſt for a Year; for aboliſhing the Town-Guard of the City of Edinburgh, and for taking away the Gates of the Nether-bow Port, and keeping open the ſame. But the City of Edinburgh was happily ſaved from this Diſgrace.

It is now Time to return to our Subject.

The Churches in this populous City and Suburbs are Twelve, including the Chapel of the Caſtle: The Miniſters about Twenty; beſides Three Chapels.

The Twelve Churches are:

• 1. The Canon-gate Kirk.
• 2. The Collegiate, or College Kirk.
• 3. The Trone Kirk, or Chriſt's Kirk.
• All theſe are Parts of the Cathedral of St. Gyles's.
  • 4. The New Kirk.
  • 5. The Old Kirk.
  • 6. The Tolbooth Kirk.
  • 7. Haddo's Hole Kirk.
• 8. The Lady Yeſter's Kirk.
• 9.10. The Grey-friers Kirk, now divided into two.
• 11. The Weſt Kirk, or St. Cuthbert's.
• 12. The Chapel of the Caſtle.

[85]There are alſo about twenty Meeting-houſes of the Epiſcopal Party; for tho' Preſbytery be the eſtabliſhed Religion of Scotland ſince the Revolution, yet a great Number of the People of all Ranks are not of that Opinion, eſpecially in the Nothern Parts.

The Churches are always very full; for the People in this Country do not wander about on the Sabbath-days, as in England. They have alſo one very good Cuſtom as to their Behaviour in Church, which I wiſh was practiſed in England: If any Perſon comes in after Divine Service is begun, he takes no Notice of any body, nor any body of him; whereas we make our Bows and Cringes, even in the Middle of our Prayers. Not that the Scots want Manners; for they ſhew them more properly after the Sermon is done, and the Bleſſing given, when they all look round upon their Friends, eſpecially to Perſons of Diſtinction, and make their Civilities as courteouſly as we do.

The City is encompaſſed with a kind of Roman Wall on every Side, except the North, where it is ſecur'd by a Lake.

The Caſtle only, and the Palace, remain to be mentioned. The firſt is ſtrong both by Situation and Art, but far from being impregnable, as has been experienced more than once. It was formerly called the Maiden Caſtle, becauſe the Pictiſh Kings kept their Daughters in it. Still more antiently, it was called Alatum Caſtrum, or the Winged Caſtle, per⯑haps from its Form, and ſtanding on ſo high a Hill, as it were in the Air: It is ſituated at the Weſt-end of the City, as we have ſaid, where the Rock riſes to a high and large Summit. 'Tis inacceſſible on the South, Weſt, and North. The Entrance is from the Town, where the Rock is alſo very high, and is defended by a round Battery, and an Out⯑work at the Foot of it. In the Caſtle is a Royal Palace of hewn Stone, where are kept the Regalia, [86] and chief Records of State, as alſo the Magazine for the Arms and Ammunition of the Nation.

A Chapel is alſo in it for the Uſe of the Gariſon; and it is furniſhed with Water by two Wells in the Rock. From the Caſtle is a delightful Proſpect over the City and neighbouring Country, and to the River of Forth, from whence it is ſaluted by ſuch Men of War as come to anchor in Leith Road. The Governor is always a Perſon of prime Quality, and General of the Forces.

The Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Fort-Ma⯑jor, and ſome other Officers, have very good Apart⯑ments; and there are deep Vaults in the Rock, which, they ſay, are Bomb-proof.

The Palace, called Holy-rood-houſe, is a very handſome Building, rather convenient than large. The Entrance is majeſtick, and over the Gate is a large Apartment, which the Duke of Hamilton claims as Hereditary Keeper of the Palace. Within this is a large, irregular Court, where are Coach-houſes and Stables, which, I think, are very improperly placed here; for if they had ſtood farther off, either in the Park, or without the Out-gate, and a Barrack, or Guard-houſe, like the Horſe-Guards at White-hall, built in their Stead, it would have been much more becoming a Royal Palace.

This may be called the Eſcurial of Scotland, being both a Royal Palace, and an Abbey, founded by King David I. for Canons Regular of St. Auſtin, who named it Holy-rood-houſe. The Entrance from the great outer Court, already deſcribed, is adorned with Pillars of hewn Stone, under a Cupola in the Form of an Imperial Crown, baluſtraded on each Side a-top. The Fore-part has two Wings, on each of which are two Turrets; that towards the North was built by King James V. whoſe Name it bears in Letters of Gold, and that towards the South (as well as all the reſt) by King Charles II. whereof Sir [87] William Bruce was Architect. The inner Court is very ſtately, all of Free-ſtone well hewed, with Piazzas round it, from which there are Entries into the ſeveral Apartments, truly royal and magnificent; but above all, the Long Gallery is very remarkable, being adorned with the Pictures of all the Scots Kings from Fergus I. to James VII. incluſive, by maſterly Hands. Thoſe Kings that were eminent, and all the Race of Stuarts, are in full Length; the others are but Buſto's.

You turn to the Right to the Royal Apartments, as at St. James's; and the Stair-caſe and Guard-room run exactly as there, but far more lofty and magnificent. Duke Hamilton's Apartment (as He⯑reditary Keeper) is in the double Tower to the North, and the great Council Chamber in the Tower to the South. The Earl of Perth, when Chancellor, in the late King James's Reign, converted this noble Room into a Popiſh Chapel, and his Apartment be⯑hind it was the Jeſuits School, which being demoliſhed by the Mob at the Revolution, has been neglected ever ſince. The Chimney-pieces are all of Marble, and the Apartments two Pair of Stairs for the Officers of State are very well kept, being lent to many of the Nobility, who now live in them.

Behind this Palace, the Conventual Church makes a Wing to the North, and Eaſtward from it is St. Anne's-yard, which was deſigned to be branched out into Gravel-walks, adorned with Statues; but the Revolution coming on, attended with a long and expenſive War, and afterwards the Union with Eng⯑land, prevented its being put in Execution.

The Church is very high to the Roof, and the Pillars are as exquiſite as thoſe of St. George's Chapel at Windſor. It is an antient, very reverend, but de⯑clining Fabrick, and uſed only as a Burial-place for Perſons of Quality. In it King James VI. was [88] crowned by Biſhop Hepburn, aſſiſted by John Knox, as was King Charles I. by Archbiſhop Spotſwood.

King James VII. began to erect a magnificent Throne here for the Sovereign, and twelve Stalls for the twelve Knights Companions of the moſt noble and antient Order of St. Andrew, or the Thiſtle, which he had revived after a long Diſuſe: The fineſt Carvers and other Maſters in Europe were employed in it. But at the Revolution the Rabble demoliſhed all, and ranſacking every Corner, fell upon a Vault quite built up, ſo as not to be known what it cer⯑tainly was, in which were found the Bodies of King James V. and Magdalene of Valois, his firſt Queen, together with Lord Darnley's, all embalmed and preſerved in Pickle; whereby the Malice of Buchanan, and others, to blacken Queen Mary's Memory, was diſcovered; for ſhe gave him a Royal Funeral ſuitable to his high Dignity, and did not carry him by Porters privately to a common Burial-place, as that Author had aſſerted.

The adjoining Park is about four Miles in Circum⯑ference; but, which is very odd, there is neither Deer nor Tree in it, and, tho' it be very mountain⯑ous, affords good Paſture for Cattle. There is a very high and craggy Rock in it, near half a Mile to the Top, called Arthur's Seat, from Arthur, the Britiſh King, who, they ſay, uſed to view the adja⯑cent Country from thence.

This Palace, or Abbey, and Park, is Sanctuary for Debtors; and no one, but by the King's Order only, can arreſt any Man, who has entered his Name in an Office kept there for that Purpoſe.

It may not be amiſs to obſerve, that according to ſeveral Acts of Parliament, divers great publick Works have been undertaken, and moſtly brought to Per⯑fection, for the Benefit of the City of Edinburgh, and Town of Leith, and their Vicinities, within theſe few Years paſt, by Benefit partly of the eaſy Scotiſh [89] Tax of Two-pence Scots on every Scots Pint of Ale and Beer ſold in the ſaid City: And partly of the Diſcontinuance of what they called the Petty-port-Cuſtoms there; ſome of which Works are as follow:

The Magiſtrates have, at a great Expence, col⯑lected the Springs, and renew'd the Pipes which convey Water to the Town; rebuilt the Fountains in the High-ſtreet; inlarged the Harbour of Leith, and deepened its Chanel; have built ſeveral hundred Feet of Key there in a very ſufficient manner; have built two new Churches; have paved, at a great Expence, with Cauſey-ſtone, the whole High-ſtreets and Ways leading to their City; have made a good Highway from Edinburgh to Leith; have built a large Workhouſe for the Poor, to be employed in Manufacture, and endow'd the ſame with 300l. per Annum. Alſo have ſettled Salaries on the Law Profeſſor at Edinburgh, and Stipends on the Mi⯑niſters of the two new Churches; have rebuilt the City Walls; and taken Meaſures for paying their old Debts, as well as thoſe incurred on account of the Rebellion in 1715.

They further propoſed alſo, by means of this Fund, to narrow the noxious Lake on the North-ſide of the City, commonly called the North Loch, into a Canal of running Water; to erect a Street of Communi⯑cation to the Fields, on the North-ſide of the City; to build a proper Hall for the Court of Juſticiary, and an Edifice for the publick Records; to eſtabliſh a Salary to a Profeſſor of Civil Hiſtory, and Greek and Roman Antiquities; another to a Profeſſor of Scots Law, and other publick-ſpirited Purpoſes. And all this is provided for and eſtabliſhed by an Act, which paſſed 9 George I. Anno 1722. confirming and con⯑tinuing a Scotiſh Act of Parliament 1693. and an Act of 3 George I. to which Act of 9 George I. we refer the Reader.

[90]I ſhall juſt ſtop to mention an odd Circumſtance that was of fatal Conſequence to the poor Dogs about Edinburgh and Leith, in the Month of April 1738. A mad Bull-bitch having bitten many Dogs in the Fleſh-market, to prevent the bad Conſequences that might follow, the Magiſtrates of Edinburgh iſſued a Proclamation, ordering all the Dogs in that Incor⯑poration to be forthwith put to Death, under Penalty of 5l. Sterling, and Impriſonment to the Owners, for twelve Calendar Months; and to prohibit all Perſons from keeping Dogs for thirty Days from that Time: And the Magiſtrates of Leith joining in the Order, nothing was to be ſeen for ſeveral Days, but chaſing, hacking, ſlaſhing, hanging, and drowning of Dogs; and great Lamentations were heard from divers, for the Loſs of their favourite Puppies; for with ſuch Zeal was this Order executed, that the Ladies had enough to do to preſerve any of their Lap-dogs; and, as it was, many Gentlemen got rid by it of formidable Rivals.

I ſhall alſo take notice here of the Miſchiefs done by a terrible Storm, which happen'd Jan. 14. 1739. in this City, and the adjacent Parts, of the like of which we have hardly any Example. The Wind began to blow pretty hard between Eleven and Twelve the preceding Night, and before One it roſe to a complete Hurri⯑cane, and continued with ſurpriſing Fury till Four in the Morning.

As the Houſes in Edinburgh are built high, they ſuffered conſiderable Damage. The Leads which cover'd the ſtately Building in the Parliament-Cloſe, were carried off the Roofs, ſome of them more than forty Feet in Dimenſions. The Canon-gate Church ſuffered exceedingly, and the fine Portico there was almoſt demoliſh'd. The Conſternation was heighten'd by the Alarm of the Fire-Drum; for the Brewery at the Eaſt-end of the Meadow, belonging to one Mr. Bryſon, taking Fire, the Wind increaſed [91] the Flame, inſomuch that the Water-works proved ſo many uſeleſs Machines; ſo that the Brewery and Houſe were conſumed, and ſome low Houſes at a conſiderable Diſtance catching the Flame, were like⯑wiſe reduced to Aſhes. Nor was the Fire confined to that Quarter; for, near the Canon-mills, on the oppoſite Part of the Town, a Farm-houſe, belong⯑ing to one Mrs. Angus, likewiſe took Fire, which conſum'd it together with the Corn-ſtacks and Out⯑houſes. Theſe Fires happen'd not thro' any Negli⯑gence, but were intirely occaſion'd by the Impetuo⯑ſity of the Wind, which having got Entrance to the Houſes, ſcatter'd the Fire, and ſet it in a Glow. A large new Houſe at the Back of the Canon-gate, conſiſting of five Stories, was intirely beaten down. This was the more remarkable, as it had been twice deſtroy'd before; and the Owner had built it ſo ſtrongly, that ſhe promis'd herſelf Security againſt any Accidents of that kind. The Buildings in the Caſtle were prodigiouſly damaged; their fine Lead Coverings were carried off, and thrown upon the Rocks; the Magazine was almoſt demoliſh'd, and other conſiderable Damages done. The Houſes at the Multries-hill, which lay much expoſed, were almoſt all unroofed, and the new Play-houſe was quite uncover'd.

This violent Tempeſt confined not itſelf to this City: At Leith it produced likewiſe very diſmal Effects; ſeveral Houſes were damaged, and the End of one ſtruck down; the Lead-mill was uncover'd; ſeveral of the Ships in the Harbour broke looſe, and with ſuch Violence, that they carried along with them the great Iron Rings to which they were faſten'd.

The Shire of Aire produced no leſs diſmal Ac⯑counts; at Irvine it blew ſo hard, that many of the Ships ſuffer'd much, and many of the Buildings in the Town were thrown down. At Aire the Loſs was much greater; a general Havock was made among [92] the Houſes and Shipping, moſt of which ſuffer'd; and the Anne Galley, bound for Jamaica, drove on Shore, and was daſh'd to Pieces; but the Crew were happily ſaved.

The like diſmal Account they gave from the Merſe, where the Storm occaſion'd a terrible De⯑ſtruction, few Houſes being left undeſtroy'd, and ſeveral Churches blown down, and Numbers ſmo⯑thered in the Ruins, and a general Havock made among the Sheep and Cattle.

This Storm did very great Damage in other Parts of the Iſland, in South as well as North Britain; but the Effects of it at Edinburgh were ſo terribly remarkable, that we thought the above Particulars would not be amiſs to inſert here.

Now we are on the Subject of melancholy Acci⯑dents, the Reader will excuſe me for the following Account of a very deplorable one, which happen'd at Kirkaldy, Jan. 7. 1739-40.

It is a well-known Cuſtom, that in theſe Parts, the firſt Monday of the Year is always obſerved with uncommon Gaiety and Mirth, and in Conſequence becomes a Holy-day to Apprentices and Servants, fourteen of which, belonging to Path-head, a little Village adjacent to Kirkaldy, having got a little Money, went to divert themſelves with a common Amuſement among Boys, by throwing up Thiſtles or Crowns: The Place they choſe was a Cave, or a large Hollow below a rocky Eminence. As they were thus innocently amuſing themſelves, the Rock tumbled down, and cruſh'd them to-pieces. 'Tis ſcarce poſſible to form an Idea of the ghaſtly Sight which their mangled Bodies exhibited. Parents could not diſtinguiſh the Corpſes of their own Children. The Parts of ſome who were cloſe together when the Rock fell, were ſo mingled, that there was no Di⯑ſtinction; and the Carnage was the moſt diſmal that could be imagined. One eſcap'd by his being at a [93] greater Diſtance from the Rock; but his Leg was broke in a vaſt Number of Places. This fatal Cata⯑ſtrophe cauſed an extraordinary Grief, eſpecially as ſome Parents loſt two, others all their Children.

The following odd Accident happen'd at Edin⯑burgh, in September 1740. A Soldier belonging to the Regiment in the Canon-gate, went to the King's Park on a Sheep-ſtealing Expedition, where he un⯑luckily happen'd to engage with a large headſtrong Ram, near one of the Precipices at Arthur's Seat, mention'd above, which puſh'd him headlong from the Top of the Rock, ſo that they both fell down together, and had their Necks broken. The un⯑happy Fellow was found next Morning with a Hand⯑ful of the Ram's Wool clench'd in his Fiſt.

We next viſited Leith, the Sea-port of Edinburgh, which is a large and populous Town, or rather two Towns; for the River or Harbour parts them: but they are joined by a ſtately Stone-bridge, to which Ships of Burden may come, and, at High-water, lay their Sides cloſe to the Shore.

Here is a very fine Quay, well wharfed up with Stone, and fenced with Piles, able to diſcharge much more Buſineſs than the Place can ſupply, tho' the Trade is far from being inconſiderable. At the Mouth of the Harbour is a very long and well-built Pier, or Head, which runs out beyond the Land a great way, and defends the Entrance into the Har⯑bour from being filled up with Sand, as it would otherwiſe be, when the Wind blows hard at North-eaſt. There are alſo Ranges of Piles, or Break-waters, as the Seamen call them, on the other Side of the Harbour, all which are kept in good Repair; and by this means the Harbour is preſerved, and kept open, in ſpite of a flat Shore, and a large Swell of the Sea.

On the other Side of the Bridge are the Remains of a ſtrong Caſtle, built by Oliver Cromwell to com⯑mand [94] the Port, which is not yet ſo far demoliſhed, but that a little Expence would ſoon reſtore it. Here the late Rebel Highlanders made a bold Stop, and took Poſſeſſion of it for one Night; but not finding their Friends in the City in any Condition to join them, and the Troops preparing to attack them, they quitted it in the Night, and marched off to the Earl of Winton's Houſe, as I have already related.

This Town was once very ſtrong; for the French held it for ſome Years againſt the Reformers, but were at laſt driven out by an Army which Queen Elizabeth ſent from England to aſſiſt the Proteſtants. It is under the Juriſdiction of the Magiſtrates of Edin⯑burgh, and is govern'd by a Bailiff under them.

At Leith the Firth is ſeven Miles over, and holds that Breadth for five or ſix Miles; but is narrower a little beyond Cramond, and at Queen's-ferry is re⯑duced to two Miles in Breadth. This Place is a very good Town as well as Ferry, and a Corporation, or Royal Burgh. Near the Water of Leith is a good Copper Mine.

At Cramond, juſt mention'd, and in the Lands of Ingleſtown, as well as at other Places in this County, Roman Antiquities have been found; particu⯑larly, near the former Place were dug up two Stones, late in Sir Robert Sibbald's Yard at Edin⯑burgh, upon one of which is a Laurel Crown, and on the other a Roman Securis: they are ſup⯑poſed to have been Part of a Pillar erected in Domitian's Time, when Agricola was in theſe Parts. Near this Place, in the Beginning of De⯑cember 1740. a Whale between 50 and 60 Feet in Length, and 16 in Depth, was caſt on Shore; whoſe Mate afterwards, tumbling about above the Ferry, was heard to make a hideous Moan, as is ſuppoſed, for its Loſs.

Between Edinburgh and this Town the Country is thronged with the Seats of Noblemen and Gentle⯑men; [95] among which the Marquis of Annandale has a very pretty one, with a fine Garden incloſed with a Brick Wall, a thing hardly to be ſeen any-where elſe in Scotland, the want of which is the Reaſon why the Wall-fruit does not thrive ſo well as it would otherwiſe do; for the Stone does not hold the Warmth of the Sun, after it is gone, as the Bricks do.

But the Beauty of this Part of the Country is Hop⯑ton Houſe, built upon a delightful Plain, on the Bank of the River. It was originally a Square, but there are two Wings lately joined to it, which add greatly to the Beauty of the Building. The Situation is ſo extremely good, and gives ſo elegant a Proſpect as well to the Sea as to the Land, that nothing can be finer. It is exquiſitely finiſhed both within and without; and there are ſome Pieces of curious Painting in it, beſides a great Number of Family Pictures. The Stables and Riding-place are by far the fineſt and moſt magnificent in Scotland; and his Lordſhip, who de⯑lights in good Horſes, has the beſt, without Compa⯑riſon, in all the Country. Hawthornden alſo is cele⯑brated for its Caves hewn out of the Rock, and Roſlin for a great ſtately Chapel.

From hence the Firth widens again, and ſoon after is three or four Miles wide, and makes a ſafe and deep Road, with good Anchor-ground, where, if there was a Trade to anſwer it, a thouſand Sail of Ships of any Burden might ſafely ride.

On the South-ſhore, upon a narrow Point of Land running into the Water, ſtands Blackneſs Caſtle, wherein State-priſoners were confined in former Times, eſpecially ſuch as were taken up for reli⯑gious Differences, many of whom miſerably periſhed here, either by the Unhealthineſs of the Place, Want of Conveniencies, or ſomething worſe. This Caſtle might be of Uſe, if the Harbour was frequented; but [96] as it is not, there ſeems to be no Occaſion for it at preſent.

Farther Weſt is Borrows-toun-neſs, a long Town, conſiſting only of one Street, which is extended along the Shore, cloſe to the Water. It has been, and ſtill is, a Town of the greateſt Trade to Holland and France of any in Scotland, except Leith; but it ſuffers very much of late by the Dutch Trade being carried on ſo much by way of England. However, if the Glaſgow Merchants would ſettle a Trade to Holland and Hamburgh in the Firth, by bringing their foreign Goods by Land to Alloway, and exporting them from thence, as they propoſed ſome Time ago, 'tis very likely the Borrows-toun-neſs Men would come into Buſineſs again; for as they have the moſt Shipping, ſo they are the beſt Seamen in the Firth, and are very good Pilots for the Coaſt of Holland, the Baltick, and the Coaſt of Norway.

But it is time to put an End to this Letter, which I do, by aſſuring you, that I am, Sir,

LETTER III. CONTAINING A Deſcription of the following Shires and Towns; viz. Annan, Dumfries, Gal⯑loway, Aire, Renfrew, Glaſgow, Stir⯑ling, Linlithgow, Clidſdale, Tweedale, Roxborough, &c.

AS I entered the Eaſt-ſide of Scotland at Berwick upon Tweed, and have car⯑ried on my Account through the Lo⯑thians, ſo, having travelled over the Weſt Part at another Journey, when I went from England by a different Road, I ſhall here give you the Particulars of that alſo.

Paſſing the River Eſk, or (as it is commonly called) the Solway Firth, beyond Carliſle, we entered Scot⯑land on the Side of Dumfriesſhire. The Diviſion of this County into Eſkdale, Nithſdale, and Annan⯑dale, is but the ordinary marking out the Rivers Eſk, Annan, and Nith, as I obſerved of the Rivers Teeſdale, Tyndale, Swaledale, and others, in the North of England; for the whole Province makes but one Shire; viz. that of Dumfries.

[98]The Eſk is a pretty large River, and gives Name to the South-eaſt Part of this County; but we ſaw very little near it, worth our Notice, except Kirſop, a very ſmall Town on a River of the ſame Name, which afterwards falls into the Eſk, and is famous for being the Place where, by a Treaty, after the Battle of Pinkey, the Limits or Borders of the two King⯑doms were ſettled; tho' the Borderers did not long obſerve it, but robbed and plundered one another upon all Occaſions, as Opportunity offered.

This River ſoon leaves Scotland, and running into the Engliſh Border, empties itſelf into the Solway Firth, which receives all the Rivers on this Part of the Iſland, as well from England as from Scotland.

The firſt Place of Note we came to in Scotland was Annand, the chief Town of Annandale, which, being a Sea-port, and having a good Harbour, was once a Town of pretty good Trade; but it was often taken by the Engliſh, who, at laſt, burnt it to the Ground in the Reign of King Edward VI. from which it never recovered. Here was a good Salmon Fiſhery, and a Trade to Ireland by the Iſle of Man; but moſt of the Merchants, and Men of Subſtance, being removed to Dumfries the Town continues, to all Appearance, in a State of irrevocable Decay.

The Town and Caſtle of Lockmaben is a Royal Burgh as well as Annand. Three Parts of it are ſurrounded by Lakes, which afford excellent Fiſh, and one particularly which is found no-where elſe. The Caſtle, as well as that of Annand, is now demoliſhed.

M [...]ffet is remarkable for its medicinal Springs. They riſe from the Top of a Rock near the Town: There are two Wells near one another. The Waters purge and vomit, and are very good againſt Colicky and Nephritical Pains, powerfully removing Ob⯑ſtructions in the Bowels. They are applied out⯑wardly to Ulcers, and for Pains in the Joints. They [99] have more Virtue in dry Seaſons, and in Summer and Autumn, than in Winter and rainy Weather.

The Town of Rivel alſo deſerves to be mention'd, on account of a very good Salt made out of a parti⯑cular Sand there, which they gather up and boil.

From Annand, keeping the Sea as cloſe as we could to the Left, we went on due Weſt to Dum⯑fries, a Sea-port Town at the Mouth of the River Nid, or Nith, which gives Name to the third Di⯑viſion of the County, called Nithſdale; but this Town is the Capital of the whole Shire, and in⯑deed of all the South-weſt Part of Scotland. Here, as in ſome few other Ports on this Side of the Iſland, the Benefits of Commerce, obtained to this Country by the Union, appear much more viſible than on the Eaſt-ſide.

Dumfries was always a good Town, with large Streets, and full of reputable and wealthy Merchants, who trade into foreign Parts, and employ a con⯑ſiderable Number of Ships, eſpecially ſince they have embarked in Trade to England, and the Engliſh Plantations. This Town is alſo advantageouſly ſituated for an Increaſe of Commerce on the River Nid, or Nith; for tho' it ſtands near two Leagues from the Sea, yet the Tide flows up to the Town, and Ships of Burden come cloſe up to the Key, and about four Miles below it the largeſt Merchant-ſhips in Britain may ride in Safety.

Over the River Nith, is a very fine Stone-bridge, at this Place, with nine Arches, and ſo broad, that two Coaches may go abreaſt on it. Here they have alſo an Exchange for the Merchants, a handſome Church, a Tolbooth or Priſon, and a Town-hall for the Uſe of the Magiſtrates. They had formerly a Woolen Ma⯑nufacture here; but the Union has, in great mea⯑ſure, ſuppreſſed theſe Things in Scotland, the Engliſh ſupplying them much better and cheaper: yet, at the ſame time, it muſt be obſerved, that the Scots [100] have more than an Equivalent by an open Trade to England, and all the Engliſh Plantations.

The Caſtle in this Town is very old, yet is ſtill pretty good and ſtrong. This Caſtle, as well as that at Carlavrok, near the Mouth of the River, which has been a very magnificent Structure, belonged for⯑merly to the antient Family of the Maxwells, Earls of Nithſdale, the only remaining Branch of which, being unhappily embarked in the late Rebellion, and taken in Arms at Preſton, made his Eſcape out of the Tower, and is now abroad, under Forfeiture.

The Inhabitants of the Town of Dumfries exerted themſelves in a diſtinguiſhing manner for the preſent Eſtabliſhment, in the Year 1715. fortify'd the Town at a great Expence, and provided themſelves with Arms and Ammunition: This involving them in a larger Debt, an Act paſſed, Anno 1716. for laying a Duty of Two Pennies Scots upon every Scots Pint of Ale or Beer ſold within the Town and its Privileges, for paying the ſaid Debts, and for building a new Church, the other being not capacious enough to hold the Inhabitants; and alſo to make a convenient Harbour there, for the Preſer⯑vation of Ships, and Improvement of Trade.

This Act enabled them to make ſome Progreſs in the deſign'd Projections; but the Town having been forced to rebuild Part of their old Church, the Council-houſe and Priſon, which were become ruinous, they were render'd unable to proceed in the moſt uſeful Parts of their Undertaking; and as the Act expired in the 10th of King George II. they procured the ſame to be continued in that Seſſion for 25 Years longer; and alſo an additional Duty on the Tonnage of Shipping, and on Goods imported and exported into and out of the Port of Dumfries: Which they hope will enable them completely to finiſh all they intended.

[101]There are many conſiderable Woods in this Coun⯑ty, the chief of which is Holy Wood, where was an Abbey, which gave Surname to the famous Aſtro⯑loger Johannes de Sacro Boſco, or Holy Wood. Drumlanrick alſo, the noble Palace of the Duke of Queenſberry, is remarkable for its Wood of Oak ſix Miles long.

At this Town the River Nith parts the Stewarty of Galloway, and the Shire of Dumfries; and in the middle of the Bridge over it, is a Gate, which is the Limit between them. This Neighbourhood of Galloway, which is a great and rich Province, pro⯑motes the Trade of this Place very much.

In November 1740. here was a great Struggle, in View to the Elections of Members for the ſucceeding Parliament, and the Town of Dumfries ſignaliz'd themſelves by the following extraordinary Act; which we ſhall give, without making any Remarks upon it, or the Occaſion of it:

We could not paſs Dumfries, without going out of our Way to ſee the Caſtle of Drumlanrig, the fine Palace of the Duke of Queenſberry, juſt mentioned, which ſtands at 12 Miles Diſtance, upon the ſame River. The Vale on either Side is pleaſant, and tolerably good: But when theſe rapid Rivers over⯑flow [103] their Banks, they do not, like Nile, or even like the Thames, and other Southern Streams, fatten and enrich the Soil; but, on the contrary, they lodge ſo much Sand and Splinters of Stone upon the Surface of the Earth, and among the Roots of the Graſs, that it ſpoils and beggars it; nay, the Water is ſometimes hurried on with ſuch Force, that it waſhes the beſt Part of the Earth away, where the Soil is light.

Drumlanrig is like a fine Picture in a dirty Grotto, or an Equeſtrian Statue ſet up in a Barn. It is en⯑vironed with Mountains, which have the wildeſt and moſt hideous Aſpect of any in all the South Part of Scotland.

We were not ſo ſurpriſed with the Height of the Mountains, and the Barrenneſs of the Country be⯑yond them, as we were with the Manners of the People, who are not ſo poliſhed here, as in the other Parts of Scotland. But what was moſt wonderful, was to ſee ſo glorious a Palace, with ſuch fine Gar⯑dens, and every thing about it ſo truly magnificent, ſtanding in a wild and mountainous Country, where nothing but what was deſolate and diſmal could be expected. However, the Situation, like that of Chatſworth in Derbyſhire, is certainly a Foil to the Buildings, and ſets them off with greater Advantage.

If you come to the Palace by the Road, which leads to it from Edinburgh, you paſs the River Nith, which is there both broad and deep, over a ſtately Stone-bridge, erected by the noble Founder of the Caſtle, and Builder of the Houſe, the firſt Duke of Queensberry.

The Building is Four-ſquare, with Roundels in the inner Angles of the Court, in every one of which is a Stair-caſe, and a kind of Tower on the Top. It ſtands on the Summit of a riſing Ground, which is beautifully laid out in Slopes and Terraces. At the Extent of the Gardens are Pavilions and Banquet⯑ing-houſes [104] exactly anſwering to one another; and the Greens, Eſpaliers, and Hedges, are in great Perfection.

The Apartments are fine and richly furniſhed. The Gallery is filled from one End to the other with Family Pictures of the Duke's Anceſtors, moſt of them at full Length, and in their Robes of State, or of Office. William, the firſt of the Family, was a younger Son of James Earl of Dowglas, who got the Barony of Drumlanrig by a Deed from his Father, as his Portion, in the Time of King Robert III. He was afterwards ſent Embaſſador to England to ran⯑ſom King James I. who was detained there. In the Year 1708. the late Duke of Queenſberry was created Duke of Dover, as alſo Marquis of Beverly, and Baron of Rippon, in England.

The next Trip we made was to Galloway, ſo called from the Gauls, from whom the antient In⯑habitants deſcended. It is divided into two different Diſtricts; that towards the Weſt is called the Shire of Wigton, and the other towards the Eaſt, which, as I ſaid before, begins at the middle of the Bridge of Dumfries, is called the Stewarty of Kirkcudbright, of which the Maxwells, Earls of Nithſdale, were Heretable Stewards. The Country hereabouts ſeems one continued Heath, proper for Grazing ſmall Cattle, which are generally ſold in England; and where-ever you perceive a Grove of Trees, you may depend upon it there is a Laird's Houſe near it, which are moſtly old Towers of Stone, ſtrongly built, to prevent a Surprize from Inroads, which were frequent between the two Nations, before the Death of Queen Elizabeth.

The firſt Town of Note on the Coaſt is Kirkcud⯑bright: Tho' its Situation is extremely convenient for carrying on a very advantageous Commerce, we ſaw nothing but a Harbour without Ships, a Port without Trade, and a Fiſhery without Nets. This [105] is owing partly to the Poverty, and partly to the Diſpoſition of the Inhabitants, who are indeed a ſober, grave, religious Sort of People, but have no Notion of acquiring Wealth by Trade; for they ſtrictly obey the Scriptures in the very Letter of the Text, by being content with ſuch Things as they have. The River Dee, which enters the Sea here, and forms the Harbour, comes out of the Mountains near Carrick, and is ſo full of Turnings and Meanders, that, tho' it is not above 70 Miles in a Line, it runs near 200 Miles in its Courſe.

The Country of Galloway lies due Weſt from Dumfries; and as that Part of it they call the Upper Galloway runs out farther into the Iriſh Seas than the reſt, all that Bay on the South-ſide may be reckoned Part of Solway Firth, as all on the North-ſide is called the Firth of Clyde, tho' near 50 Miles from the River itſelf.

The Weſtern Galloway, or the Shire of Wigton, runs out with a Peninſula ſo far into the Sea, that from the utmoſt Shores you ſee the Coaſt of Ireland as plain as you ſee Calais from Dover. Port Patrick, which is the ordinary Place for the Ferry or Paſſage to Belfaſt and other Ports in Ireland, has a tolerable good Harbour, and a ſafe Road; but there is very little Uſe for it; the Packet-boat, and a few fiſhing Veſſels, are the Sum of its Navigation. There was nothing here to invite our Stay; for 'tis a mean dirty homely Place: and as we had no Buſineſs but to ſee the Coaſt, we came away very ill ſatisfied with our Accommodation. Upon a Hill near the Town, we could plainly ſee Ireland to the South-weſt, the Coaſt of Cumberland, and the Iſle of Man to the South-eaſt, and the Iſle of Ila, and the Mull of Kintyre, to the North-weſt.

As we paſſed into the Peninſula, we ſtopt at Stranrawer, ſituate on the North-ſide of the Iſthmus, which is formed by two Arms of the Sea; one on [106] the North-ſide, called Lochrain; and the other on the South, called the Bay of Glenluce. On each Side of this Iſthmus is an excellent Road for Ships: But we could diſcover no Genius in the People for Trade, or for Sea Affairs of any Kind.

Six Miles South of Wigton lies Whithern, the antient Candida Caſa, a Royal Burgh, but very poor, eſpecially ſince the Diſſolution of the Priory. In this Town was the Seat of the Biſhop of Galloway, which was founded by St. Ninian about 1200 Years ago.

But tho' the People of Galloway, eſpecially on the Sea Coaſt, are much to blame for not falling in to Commerce, Navigation, &c. yet they are not quite idle; for they are great Cultivators of the Earth, and Breeders of Cattle, of which they ſend above 50000 Head every Year to England. Beſides, they have the beſt Breed of ſtrong, low, punch Horſes in Britain, if not in Europe, which are from thence called Galloways. Theſe Horſes, which are very much bought up in England, are remarkable for be⯑ing good natural Pacers, ſtrong, eaſy Goers, hardy, gentle, well-broken, and, above all, not apt to tire.

Proceeding from Lower Galloway hither, we had like to have been driven down the Stream of a River, tho' a Countryman went before for our Guide; for the Water ſwelled upon us as we paſſed, and the Stream was very ſtrong, ſo that we were obliged to turn our Horſes Heads to the Current, and ſloping over, edg'd near the Shore by Degrees; whereas, if our Horſes had ſtood directly croſs the Stream, they could not have kept their Feet. The Inhabitants follow Fiſhing, as well in the Sea, as in the Ri⯑vers and Loughs, which lie every-where under the Hills; it which, about September, they catch an in⯑credible Number of excellent Eels; by which they are no leſs Gainers, than by their little Horſes.

[107]This Part of the Country is very mountainous, and ſome of the Hills prodigiouſly high; but they were all covered with Sheep, and other Cattle, the Gentlemen hereabouts being the greateſt Sheep-maſters, (for ſo they call themſelves) and the greateſt Breeders of Black Cattle and Horſes, in the whole Kingdom.

We now entered the Shire of Aire, full North from the Mull, or North-point of Galloway: And as we, before, coaſted the South Bay, or Firth of Sol⯑way, which parts England from Scotland, ſo now we coaſted the Firth of Clyde, which, for near 60 Miles, lies on the Weſt-ſide of the Shore, ſtanding away North-eaſt from the Point of the Mull. This Shire is divided into three great Bailleries; viz. Car⯑rick, Kyle, and Cunningham.

Carrick is a more fruitful and better cultivated Country than Galloway, and not ſo mountainous; but it does not ſo much abound in Cattle, eſpecially Sheep and Horſes. Tho' there is no conſiderable Port in this Part of the Country, yet the People begin to trade here, and thoſe who live towards the Coaſt are great Fiſhermen, and are employed by the Mer⯑chants of Glaſgow, and other Places, to catch Her⯑rings for them. May-bole is the chief Town; but tho' it ſtands on the Coaſt, it has no Harbour, and is poor and decayed. The Market is pretty good, becauſe there are many Gentlemen in the Neigh⯑bourhood, and the Coaſt near it full of People; but the Houſes are mean, low, and very coarſe. The Family of Kennedy, Earls of Caſſils, are or were Lords of great Part of the Country, and have a good an⯑tient Seat; but we did not go to ſee it.

Coming to the North Bounds of Carrick, we paſſed the River Dun over a Bridge of one Arch, con⯑ſiſting of 90 Feet; which is much larger than the Rialto at Venice, or the middle Arch of the great Bridge at York. We found many large ones in this [108] Country, tho' I think, none ſo large as this, except at Glaſgow and Stirling. This Bridge led us into the County of Kyle, the ſecond Diviſion of the Shire of Aire. Here I obſerved, that, contrary to our Ex⯑pectation, we found, the farther North we travelled, the Country was the finer, better, and richer.

Kyle is more populous than Carrick; and the Soil being better here, and the Country more plain and level, ſo on the Banks of the River there are abun⯑dance of Gentlemens Seats, tho' moſt of them are built Caſtle-wiſe, becauſe of Enemies. But that Fear being now over, they begin to plant and incloſe after the Manner of England.

The Scots Writers tell us a long Story of a great Battle in this Country between Coilus, or Kylus, a Britiſh King, and their Fergus I. where the former was killed, and from thence the Country took his Name. Many Monuments of this Battle are ſtill to be ſeen here. The Place where were it was fought is called Coil-field; a Church near it, is called Coil-town Kirk. The River near which it was won, and which falls into the River Aire, four Miles above the Town of Aire, is called Coil; a Lake not far from it, near which the Scots encamped, is called Lake Fergus. A Trumpet reſembling a crooked Horn, which has a very ſhrill Sound, was digged up in the Field of Battle, and is ſtill kept in the Laird of Caprington's Houſe, called Coil-field, and made uſe of to call his Servants and Workmen together. Here, or, as ſome ſay, at Largis in the Bay of Clyde, was another bloody Battle in the Year 1263. between King Alexander III. of Scotland, and Acho, King of Norway, who came to the Port of Aire with a great Fleet of Ships, and 20,000 Men, who, after ravaging the Country, was routed, and loſt both his Army, and 140 Ships. At this laſt Battle, an Iriſh Gentleman, of the Name of Mackenzie, behaved ſo well, that King Alexander gave him the [109] Lands of Kintail, which continued in the Poſſeſſion of the Earl of Seaforth, his Succeſſor, till the late Earl taking Part with the Pretender, his Eſtate became forfeited. From this brave Iriſhman, are deſcended the numerous Name of Mackenzie.

Over the River Aire is a Bridge of Four Arches, near the new Town; and South of the Bridge ſtands the old Town of Aire or Erigena, famous for its Antiquity and Privileges. It has a very large Juriſdiction of near 64 Miles, reaching from the Mouth of Clyde to the Borders of Galloway. It ſtands on a ſandy Plain, but has pleaſant green Fields two Miles South and North of it. In the Fields betwixt the Mouth of the River Dun and Aire, ſtands a very beautiful Church. The Town has a very good Harbour in the River, and lies conveniently for Trade: And 'tis eaſy to ſee, that it has been much larger, than it is at preſent. It is now like an old Beauty, and ſhews the Ruins of a good Face, but is ſtill decaying every Day; and from having been the fifth beſt Town in Scotland, as the Townſmen ſay, it is now the fifth worſt; which is owing to the Decay of its Trade: So true it is, that Commerce is the Life of Cities, of Nations, and even of Kingdoms. What was the Reaſon of the Decay of Trade in this Place, is not eaſy to determine, the People themſelves being either unwilling or unable to tell. Here, over the River Irvin, which divides Aire from Cunningham, is a good Bridge of four Arches. Aire is noted for the treacherous Murder of many Noblemen and Gentle⯑men by the Engliſh in Wallace's Time; when they were called together during a Truce (after Edward I. had over-run the Country) on Pretence of holding a Court of Juſtice, and were treacherouſly hanged one after another, as they entered the King's large Barns, where the Court was held.

This was as ſeverely, as juſtly, revenged by Wal⯑lace, with whom, as Warden of Scotland, they had [110] made the Truce, and whom they endeavoured to entice thither by their Charter of Peace, as they had done a great many others of Quality. But he, having Notice of what had paſſed, ſurpriſed them that very Night in their Jollity, rejoicing that they had, as they thought, by theſe treacherous Murders, ſecured Scotland for ever; and having ſet Guards round the Barn, that none ſhould eſcape, he burnt all the Engliſh in them. The Ruins of thoſe Barns are ſtill ſhewn here.

Oliver Cromwell built a Citadel at Aire, well fortify'd with a Foſſe, and a Stone Wall. At the Reſtoration it was demoliſhed; and at preſent only ſome Houſes, and Angles of the Ramparts, are ſtanding.

Two Miles North of Aire Town ſtands Kincaſe, which has been, from Time immemorial, a Place of Retirement for Leprous Perſons.

From Aire, keeping ſtill North, we came to Irwin, upon a River of the ſame Name. Here they have a Port, which formerly was in much better Condition than it had been for ſome Years paſt, the Harbour being ſo much decay'd by Length of Time, and other Accidents, that the Trade of the Town began to decay; for the Water not being confined to its proper Chanel, the Harbour became ſo choaked up with Sand-Banks, that it was of little Uſe to what it had been; ſo that Ships of very ſmall Burden were freqently ſhut up for ſeveral Months in the River, before they could ſail out to Sea. At the ſame time the Town-houſe, Church, Streets, and other publick Works, as the common Gaol, and one of the Arches of the Bridge, were all in a ruinous Condition: All which occaſion'd an Act of Parliament to paſs in the Ninth of King George II. for laying a Duty of Two-pennies Scots upon every Scots Pint of Ale or Beer ſold in the Town of Irvin, and its Liberties; and a Duty of a Penny Sterling [111] upon every Ton of Coals ſhipped off for Tranſ⯑portation. By which means the Harbour will ſoon be reſtored to its priſtine Goodneſs, and the Town to its former flouriſhing Condition. But thus much muſt be ſaid, that notwithſtanding the declining Condition of its Harbour, before this Act paſſed, it carried on a greater Trade, than moſt of the Ports between Aire and Dumfries. Their chief Trade is in Scots Coal, which they export in great Quantities to Ireland; for the neighbouring Hills abound with this Commodity. Irvin is the Capital of that Di⯑viſion of the Shire of Aire, which they call Cun⯑ningham, and is really within the Firth of Clyde, tho' not actually within the River itſelf. The Name of Cunningham ſignifies, the King's Habitation, from the Beauty of its Situation.

As it has more Trade than the other Parts I have been ſpeaking of, ſo it is better built. Here are two handſome Streets, a good Quay, and a capacious Har⯑bour. The Country is rich and fruitful, filled with Gentlemens Seats and well-built Houſes; and where⯑ever you turn your Eye, you ſee nothing but beauti⯑ful Encloſures, pleaſant Paſtures, and Graſs Grounds, ſo that we thought ourſelves in England again. It is ſaid, this incloſing the Ground was owing to the Engliſh Soldiers, who were placed here and in Kyle by Oliver Cromwell (for at Aire he built a Citadel, as I have ſaid); theſe prompted and encouraged the People to incloſe and improve their Lands, and in⯑ſtructed them in the Manner of Huſbandry practiſed in England, which they have not forgot to this Day.

A very extraordinary Storm of Thunder and Lightning happened here, on the 26th of November 1740. which deſerves to be taken notice of, for the Terror it occaſion'd, it being equally uncommon for the Seaſon of the Year, and the Climate.

[112]At Noon began to fall a very heavy Rain, which ended in ſuch a Shower of large Hail, that every body betook themſelves to Shelter from its Violence. This was followed with a ſudden and moſt dread⯑ful Flaſh of Fire, and Crack of Thunder. The Lightning accompanied the Thunder, which did not continue rolling, as uſually, ſhort and quick; but the Noiſe ſeemed greater and more frightful, than as if all the Ordnance on Earth had been at one Inſtant diſcharged. The Whole ſeemed to break upon the Tolbooth and Steeple; drove in much of the Roof on two Sides, ſo as Waggons might paſs thro'; the Steeple was much ſhattered, and the Crevices large. The Town-clock was broke to Pieces, the Work either calcin'd or melted. The ſtrong Door of the Priſon was burſt up (notwithſtanding its large iron Bars). A Lad of Fourteen was killed as he ſtood at a Win⯑dow, and his Cloaths intirely conſumed; his Brother, aged Twelve, was thrown down near by him; an⯑other Brother was ſtruck blind; their Aunt had all her Cloaths burnt to Aſhes on one Side, and even her Skin flay'd off, worſe than could have been done by any Bliſtering-plaiſter; her other Side ſeem'd untouch'd. 'Tis obſervable, that not one Bone of any of them was broken, tho' every Hair was ſinged, and that the ſulphureous Stench about them was intolerable. Many other Perſons were alſo grievouſly hurt. Two Sailors coming from the Quay, ſaid, that a large Pillar of Fire ſtruck them in the Face, which brought them to their Knees. One Mr. Cunningham ſaid, it appear'd to him as a moſt voluminous Pillar of Fire, proceeding quick as from the Mouth of Cannon; and, that he thought, from the uncommon Smoke over the Tolbooth, that it had been all on Fire; he was thrown down, and his Foot much hurt. The People had ſcarce recovered their Senſes, when two other Cracks of Thunder gave freſh Grounds of Terror; ſo that it was apprehended the [113] General Judgment approached, and every one pro⯑ſtrated themſelves in Humility, imploring Mercy from on high; but theſe laſt, tho' terrible and un⯑common, were nothing to the firſt. Great hewn Stones were carried violently out of the Steeple to Baillie Neſbitt's Houſe, where they left Impreſſions.

A little from Irvin ſtood Kilmarnock Caſtle, the Seat of the Family of the Boyds, Earls of Kilmar⯑nock, which on the 15th of March 1738-9. was intirely conſumed, with the Furniture, and a curious Collection of Books in MSS. nothing being ſaved but the Charter-cheſt. On the other Side is the Caſtle of Eglington, the Seat of the antient Family of the Montgomeries, Earls of Eglington. On the North-eaſt Borders of this County, where it joins to Clydſdale, is the Caſtle of London, the noble and beautiful Seat of the Earl of London.

Upon the Bay of Clyde ſtands the Town of Largis, famous for the Defeat of the Norwegians by King Alexander III. of Scotland, which ſome give to Kyle, as we have ſaid above.

Kilmaers, in the ſame County, is the Seat of the noble and antient Family of Cunningham, Earls of Glencairn. Camden ſays, that the Family derives its Original from one of that Name concerned in the Murder of Thomas à Becket, who fled into Scotland on that Account, and therefore bear an Epiſcopal Pall in their Arms; but it is plain from their Motto, Over, Fork, over, that it is a Fork, and not an Epi⯑ſcopal Pall: and the Family, no doubt, is of a much higher and nobler Original.

In the Sea lies Lady Iſle, where is great Plenty of Rabbets and Fowl, but no Inhabitants.

With the Diviſion of Cunningham I quitted the Shire of Aire, which is, without Exception, one of the pleaſanteſt Counties in Scotland.

Joining to it North, and bordering on the Clyde itſelf, lies the Shire, or rather Barony of Renfrew, [114] which was the antient Eſtate of the Stuarts before they ſucceeded to the Crown of Scotland; and his Royal Highneſs the Prince of Wales, among other Titles, is now ſtyled Baron of Renfrew. It is a pleaſant, rich, and populous Country; and tho' the Soil is not thought to be ſo good as in Cunningham, yet that is abundantly recompenſed by the Neigh⯑bourhood of Glaſgow and the Clyde, and the great Commerce of both.

We kept our Rout from Irvin along the Coaſt, as near as we could; ſo that we ſaw all the Firth of the Clyde, and the very Opening itſelf, which is juſt at the Weſt-corner of this County. There are ſome Villages and Fiſhing Towns within the Mouth of this River which have good Buſineſs.

The firſt Town of Note is called Greenock, which ſeems not to be an antient Place, but to be grown up in later Years by being a good Road for Ships to ride in that come into, and go out from Glaſgow, as Ships for London do in the Downs. The Town is well-built, has many rich trading Families in it, and a Caſtle to command the Road. It is the chief Place in the Weſt of Scotland for the Herring Fiſhing; and the Merchants of Glaſgow, who are concerned in it, employ their Veſſels for catching and curing the Fiſh, and for carrying them Abroad to Market afterwards; and their being ready on all Hands to go to Sea, makes them often leave the Care of their own Ships to the Greenock Men, who are good Seamen, and excellent Pilots for thoſe difficult Seas.

At the Weſt-end of a Bay on the Firth is a ſmall Town, called Gowrock, where is a noted Road and Harbour lately fitted up.

Paiſley alſo ſtands in this County on the River Cart; and, tho' no Borough, is larger than Renfrew; and was formerly noted for its noble Abbey of the Order of Cluny; the Monks of which wrote a Chronicle called, The black Book of Paiſley. The [115] Abbey and Church, with fair Gardens and Orchards, and a little Park for fallow Deer, are all incloſed with a Stone Wall about a Mile in Circuit: The Water of the River Whitecart, upon which Paiſley ſtands, is commended for its Largeneſs, and the Pearls frequently found thereabouts, and three Miles above. They commonly fiſh for them in Summer⯑time, and meet with them in a Shell-fiſh larger than an ordinary Muſcle, at the Bottom of the Water. It lies on the Weſt-ſide of Clyde over-againſt Glaſ⯑gow. The Remains of the Abbey are ſtill to be ſeen, and the Town bears the Marks of having been fortified. At the Weſt-end of the Town are the Remains of a large Roman Camp and Praetorium, ſuppoſed to be vaulted underneath, becauſe the Ground, when trod upon, ſounds hollow. Here it was Mary Queen of Scots was defeated by her re⯑bellious Subjects under the Baſtard Earl of Murray, from whence ſhe took Refuge in England, and was there moſt inhoſpitably impriſoned for ſeveral Years, and at laſt beheaded. In the Lands of Newyards, near Paiſley, on a high Ground, is a Fountain noted for ebbing and flowing with the Tide.

The Country between Paiſley and Glaſgow, on the Bank of Clyde, I take to be one of the moſt agreeable Places in Scotland for its Situation, Ferti⯑lity, Healthineſs, and for the Benefits it receives from the Neighbourhood of Glaſgow, and the Sea.

I am now come to the Bank of Clyde; but my Method here, as in England, forbids my wandering North, till I have given you a full View of the South. The Clyde and the Forth may be ſaid to croſs Scotland here, their two Firths not being above 20 Miles diſtant from one another, which, if joined, would divide it very near in the Centre.

Nor can I refrain mentioning how eaſy a Work it would be to make a Navigation from the Forth to the Clyde, joining the two Seas, as the King of [116] France has done in a Place five hundred times more difficult, namely, from Tholouſe to Narbonne; and as the late Czar of Muſcovy, Peter, juſtly ſurnamed The Great, did in ſeveral Places of infinitely greater Difficulty and Expence. What an Advantage in Commerce would this be? It would eſtabliſh a Trade between Ireland and the Merchants in Glaſgow, and open a Communication between the Weſt-coaſt of Scotland, and the Eaſt of England, even to London; nay, ſeveral Ports of England on the Iriſh Sea, from Liverpool Northward, would all trade with London by ſuch a Canal. It would take up a Volume to lay down the ſeveral Advantages that would imme⯑diately accrue from ſuch a Navigation, and in par⯑ticular in Times of War; but it muſt lie till Poſte⯑rity, by the riſing Greatneſs of their Commerce, ſhall not only feel the Want of it, but find them⯑ſelves inclinable, as well as able, to effect it.

Glaſgow is the Emporium of the Weſt of Scotland, being, for its Commerce and Riches, the ſecond in this Northern Part of Great Britain. It is a large, ſtate⯑ly, and well-built City, ſtanding on a Plain, in a manner four-ſquare; and the four principal Streets are the faireſt for Breadth, and the fineſt built, that I have ever ſeen in one City together. The Houſes are all of Stone, and generally uniform in Height, as well as in Front. The lower Stories for the moſt part ſtand on vaſt ſquare Dorick Columns, with Arches which open into the Shops, adding to the Strength, as well as Beauty, of the Building. In a Word, 'tis one of the cleanlieſt, moſt beautiful, and beſt-built Cities in Great Britain.

It ſtands on the Side of a Hill, ſloping to the Ri⯑ver; only that Part next the River, for near one-third of the City, is flat, and by this means, ex⯑poſed to the Water upon any extraordinay Flood: It is ſituated upon the Eaſt Bank of the Clyde, which is not navigable to the Town but by ſmall Veſſels. [117] Its Port therefore is Newport-Glaſgow, which ſtands near the Clyde's Mouth, and is an Harbour for Ships of the greateſt Burden. Here it is on a good Wharf or Quay the Merchants load and unload. Their Cuſtom-houſe is alſo here, and their Ships are here repaired, laid up, and fitted out either here or at Greenock, where Work is well done, and Labour cheap.

The City is join'd to the Suburbs on the Weſt Bank of the Clyde by the noble Bridge I have mentioned.

Where the four principal Streets meet, the Croſ⯑ſing makes a very ſpacious Market-place, as may be eaſily imagined, ſince the Streets are ſo large. As we come down the Hill from the North-gate to this Place, the Tolbooth and Guild-hall make the North-weſt Angle, or Right-hand Corner of the Street, which is now rebuilt in a very magnificent Manner. Here the Town-council ſit, and the Magiſtrates try ſuch Cauſes as come within their Cognizance, and do all their other publick Buſineſs. So that, as will be eaſily conceived, the Tolbooth ſtands in the very Centre of the City. It is a noble Structure of hewn Stone, with a very lofty Tower, and melodious hourly Chimes. All theſe four principal Streets are adorned with ſeveral publick Buildings.

But the chief Ornament of this City is the Col⯑lege or Univerſity, a moſt magnificent and ſtately Fabrick, conſiſting of ſeveral Courts. The Front to the City is of hewn Stone, and excellent Archi⯑tecture. Its Precincts were lately inlarged by ſome Acres of Ground purchaſed for it by publick Money; and it is ſeparated from the reſt of the City by a very high Wall.

It owes its Erection to Archbiſhop Turnbull, and was legally founded by King James II. in 1453. by virtue of a Bull from Pope Nicolas V. granting it all the Privileges, Liberties, Honours, Immunities, [118] and Exemptions, given by the Apoſtolical See to the College of Bononia, in Italy, for teaching Uni⯑verſal Learning. A Rector, a Dean of the Faculty, a Principal or Warden, who was to teach Theology, three Philoſophy-Profeſſors, were eſtabliſhed by the firſt Foundation; and afterwards ſome Clergymen taught the Civil and Canon Law there.

In 1577. King James VI. eſtabliſhed a Principal, three Profeſſors of Philoſophy, four Burſars, a Steward to furniſh their Table, a Servant for the Principal, a Janitor to look after the Gate, and a Cook.

The Family of Hamilton gave ſome of the Ground on which the College ſtands, with an adjacent Field.

Kings, Parliaments, the City of Glaſgow, ſeveral of the Archbiſhops, and many particular Perſons, have been Benefactors to it.

In 1662. the Earl of Dundonald gave 1000l. Sterling to it, for the Maintenance of poor Scholars. The great Buchanan, and the famous Cameron had, among other eminent Men, their Education here.

Several fine Roman Stones, digged up in the Latter-end of 1740. near Kirkentilloch, with very curious Inſcriptions, have been removed to this Uni⯑verſity, where before was a good Collection of Pieces of Antiquity, chiefly found near the ſame Place.

In the higher Part of the City ſtands the great Church, formerly Cathedral and Metropolitan, de⯑dicated to St. Mungo, who was Biſhop here about the Year 560. It is a magnificent and ſtately Edifice, and ſurpriſes the Beholders with its ſtupendous Big⯑neſs, and the Workmanſhip of the Artizan. The ſeveral Rows of Pillars, and the exceeding high Spire which riſes from a ſquare Tower in the middle of the Croſs, ſhew a wonderful Piece of Architecture. It is now divided into ſeveral Preaching-places, one above the other.

[119]Near the Church ſtands a ruinous Caſtle, formerly the Reſidence of the Archbiſhop, who was legal Lord or Superior of the City, which ſtands on his Ground, and from whom it received its firſt Charter, and many Privileges. It is encompaſſed with an ex⯑ceeding high Wall of hewn Stone, and has a fine Proſpect into the City.

The Duke of Montroſe has ſo great an Intereſt here, and in the Country round, that he is, in a Civil Senſe, Governor of this City, as he is legally of their Univerſity, and much beloved in theſe Parts.

Glaſgow is a City of Buſineſs, and has the Face of Foreign as well as Domeſtick Trade; nay, I may ſay, 'tis the only City in Scotland, at this Time, that ap⯑parently increaſes in both. The Union has, indeed, anſwered its End to them, more than to any other Part of the Kingdom, their Trade being new formed by it; for as the Union opened the Door to the Scots into our American Colonies, the Glaſgow Merchants preſently embraced the Opportunity; and tho', at its firſt concerting, the Rabble of this City made a formidable Attempt to prevent it, yet afterwards they knew better, when they found the great Increaſe of their Trade by it; for they now ſend near 50 Sail of Ships every Year to Virginia, New England, and other Engliſh Colonies in America.

But if this City could have a Communication with the Firth of Forth, ſo as to ſend their Tobacco and Sugar by Water to Alloway below Stirling, as they might from thence again to London, Holland, Ham⯑burgh, and the Baltick, they would very probably in a few Years double their Trade.

The Share they have in the Herring Fiſhery is very conſiderable; and they cure their Herrings ſo well, and ſo much better than they are done in any other Part of Great Britain, that a Glaſgow Herring is eſteemed as good as a Dutch one.

[120]I have no room to inlarge upon the Home Trade of this City, which is very conſiderable in many Things. I ſhall therefore touch at ſome few Particulars.

1. Here are two very handſome Sugar-baking Houſes, carried on by ſkilful Perſons, with large Stocks, and to a very great Perfection. Here is likewiſe a large Diſtillery for diſtilling Spirits from the Melaſſes drawn from Sugars, by which they enjoyed a vaſt Advantage for a Time, by a reſerved Article in the Union, freeing them from Engliſh Duties.

2. Here is a Manufacture of Plaiding, a Stuff croſs⯑ſtriped with yellow, red, and other Mixtures, for the Plaids or Veils worn by the Women in Scotland.

3. Here is a Manufacture of Muſlins, which they make ſo good and fine, that great Quantities of them are ſent into England, and to the Britiſh Plantations, where they ſell at a good Price. They are generally ſtriped, and are very much uſed for Aprons by the Ladies, and ſometimes in Head-cloaths by the meaner Sort of Engliſhwomen.

4. Here is alſo a Linen Manufacture; but as that is in common with all Parts of Scotland, which im⯑prove in it daily, I will not inſiſt upon it as a Pe⯑culiar here, tho' they make a very great Quantity of it, and ſend it to the Plantations as their principal Merchandize: Nor are the Scots without a Supply of Goods for ſorting their Cargoes to the Engliſh Co⯑lonies, without ſending to England for them; and it is neceſſary to mention it here, becauſe it has been objected by ſome, that the Scots could not ſend a ſortable Cargo to America, without buying from England; which, coming thro' many Hands, and by a long Carriage, muſt conſequently be ſo dear, that the Engliſh Merchants can underſell them.

It is very probable indeed, that ſome Things can⯑not be had here ſo well as from England, ſo as to make out ſuch a ſortable Cargo as the Virginia Mer⯑chants [121] in London ſhip off, whoſe Entries at the Cu⯑ſtom-houſe conſiſt ſometimes of two hundred Parti⯑culars, as Tin, Turnery, Milanery, Upholſtery, Cutlery, and other Crooked-lane Wares; in ſhort, ſomewhat of every Thing, either for Wearing or Houſe-furniture, building Houſes or Ships.

But tho' the Scots cannot do all this, we may reckon up what they can furniſh, which they have not only in ſufficient Quantities, but ſome in greater Perfection than England itſelf.

• 1. They have Woollen Manufactures of their own, ſuch as Stirling Serges, Muſſelburgh Stuffs, Aberdeen Stockens, Edinburgh Shalloons, Blankets, &c.
• 2. The Trade with England being open, they have now all the Mancheſter, Sheffield, and Birmingham Wares, and likewiſe the Cloths, Kerſeys, Half-thicks, Duffels, Stockens, and coarſe Manufactures of the North of England, brought as cheap or cheaper to them by Horſe-packs, as they are carried to London, it being at a leſs Diſtance.
• 3. They have Linens of moſt Kinds, eſpecially Diapers and Table-linen, Damaſks, and many other Sorts not known in England, and cheaper than there, becauſe made at their own Doors.
• 4. What Linens they want from Holland or Ham⯑burgh, they import from thence as cheap as the Engliſh can do, and for Muſlins, their own are very acceptable, and cheaper than in England.
• 5. Gloves they make better and cheaper than in England; for they ſend great Quantities thither.
• 6. Another Article, which is very conſiderable here, is Servants, which they can tranſport in greater Plen⯑ty, and upon better Terms, than the Engliſh, with⯑out the ſcandalous Art of Kidnapping, Wheedling, Betraying, and the like; for the poor People offer themſelves faſt enough, and think it their Advantage, as it certainly is, to ſerve out their Times ſoberly in the foreign Plantations, and then become diligent [122] Planters for themſelves; which is a much wiſer Courſe than to turn Thieves, and then be tranſ⯑ported to ſave them from the Gallows. This may be given as a Reaſon, and, I believe, it is the only one, why ſo many more of the Scots Servants, who go over to Virginia, ſettle and thrive there, than of the Engliſh; which is ſo certainly true, that if it holds on for many Years more, Virginia may be rather called a Scots than an Engliſh Plantation.

I might mention many other Particulars; but this is ſufficient to ſhew, that the Scots Merchants are not at a Loſs how to make up ſortable Cargoes to ſend to the Plantations; and that if we can outdo them in ſome things, they are able to outdo us in others. If they are under any Diſadvantages in the Trade I am ſpeaking of, it is that they may not, perhaps, have ſo eaſy a Vend and Conſumption for the Goods they bring back, as the Engliſh have at London, Briſtol, or Liverpool; for which Reaſon they have lately ſet up a Wharf at Alloway in the Forth, whence they ſend their Tobacco and Sugars thither by Land-car⯑riage, and ſhip them off from thence for Holland, Hamburgh, or London, as the Market offers; and in⯑deed they carry on a profitable Trade with England in Tobacco, which from the Difference of Duty, &c. they do with no ſmall Advantage.

Now, tho' the carrying their Tobacco and Sugars ſeveral Miles over Land may be ſome Diſadvantage, yet, if, on the other hand, it be calculated how much ſooner the Voyage is made from Glaſgow to the Capes of Virginia, than from London, the Difference will be made up in the Frieght, and in the Expence of the Ships, eſpecially in time of War, when the Chanel is thronged with Privateers, and the Ships wait to go in Fleets for fear of Enemies; for the Glaſgow Veſ⯑ſels are no ſooner out of the Firth of Clyde, but they ſtretch away to the North-weſt, are out of the Road of the Privateers immediately, and are often at the [123] Capes of Virginia before the London Ships get clear of the Chanel. Nay, even in times of Peace, there muſt always be allowed, one time with an⯑other, at leaſt fourteen or twenty Days Difference in the Voyage, both going out and coming in, which, taken together, is a Month or ſix Weeks in the whole Voyage; and conſidering Wear and Tear, Victuals and Wages, this makes a conſiderable Difference in the Trade.

One thing ſtill I muſt take notice of, before I quit Glaſgow. I have mentioned, more than once, the Duties laid on Ale and Beer ſold in divers Towns in Scotland, for the Benefit and publick Emolument of the ſaid Towns; but have here to take Notice of the like Duty laid for a different Purpoſe, that is to ſay, for a Puniſhment: The Caſe was this:

When the Malt-Duty was extended for the firſt time to Scotland, it occaſioned much murmuring; and particularly Daniel Campbell, Eſq who lived at Glaſgow, and was Member for that Town, having given his Vote for it in Parliament, the Po⯑pulace roſe, enter'd his Houſe, deſtroy'd all his Goods and Furniture, and committed other Acts of Vio⯑lence and Outrage.

This the Legiſlature reſenting as a Defiance of lawful Authority, an Act paſſed in the 12th of King George I. 1725. to take from the Town of Glaſgow the Benefits of an Act before paſſed, for laying a Duty of two Penies Scots on every Pint of Ale or Beer brewed for Sale in the ſaid City and its Privi⯑leges; and veſting it for the Remainder of the Term, which was for thirteen Years to come, (viz. from 1725. to 1738.) in his Majeſty, to be put under the Commiſſioners of Exciſe, in order to raiſe the Sum of 6080l. for ſatisfying the Damages and Loſſes ſuſtained by Mr. Campbell in the ſaid Riot; but it was provided, that when the ſaid Sum was paid, the Duty of Two Penies Scots was to return, for the [124] Remainder of the Term, to the Magiſtrates, for the Purpoſes for which they were originally granted. This occaſioned no good Blood, it may be believed, between the City and Mr. Campbell; but yet, this was not the laſt time this City had the Honour to be repreſented in Parliament by the ſame Gentleman, as it is joined with the Burghs of Renfrew, Ruglen, and Dunbarton!—So placable, and ſo forgiving, are the generous Scotiſh Nation! or, at leaſt, ſo little Title has the City of Glaſgow in particular to the National Motto of Scotland!—Nor did this good Behaviour of theirs turn out to its Diſadvantage; for in the 9th of George II. a new Act paſſed, continuing the former Act for Twenty-five Years longer, and ex⯑tending it to the Villages of Gorbells, and Port Glaſgow, both which Places were in the Juriſdiction of the City, and reaped all their Advantages from its Neighbourhood; the latter eſpecially, at which the People of Glaſgow had built, and conſtantly maintained, a very commodious Harbour, and yet were neither of them in the former Act.

From Glaſgow I went eight Miles Southward to Hamilton, a Town pleaſant and well-built, the Church of which is the Burying-place of the Noble Family of Hamilton. But it is chiefly noted for its fine Palace, the Seat of the Duke of Hamilton, premier Peer in Scotland, and nearly related to the Royal Family of the Stuarts. The Houſe at pre⯑ſent is large, tho' Part of the Deſign is yet unfiniſhed. It has a fair Front, with two Wings, and two more are laid out in the Ichnography of the Building, which are not yet begun.

The Front is very magnificent, all of white Free-ſtone, with regular Ornaments according to the Rules of Art. The Wings are very deep, and when the other two are added, the Sides of the Houſe will be like two large Fronts rather than Wings. The Apartments are very noble, and more fit for [125] the Court of a Prince, than the Houſe of a Subject. The Pictures, the Furniture, and other Decorations are exquiſitely fine, and ſuitable to the Dignity of the great Poſſeſſors. The late Ducheſs, marrying a Branch of the Family of Dowglas, obliged him to take the Name of Hamilton, and ſo continue the Eſtate in her Name. Her Grace had ſix Sons, four of whom were Peers either by Birth or Creation; viz. The late Duke, who was killed in a Duel with Lord Mohun, Anno 1712. Charles, late Earl of Selkirk, ſo created by King James VII. John, Earl of Ruglen; and George, late Earl of Orkney. The other two were Lord Baſil, and Lord Archibald, late one of the Lords of the Admiralty.

The Situation of the Houſe has all the Advantage imaginable; for it ſtands in a plain Country, near enough to the Banks of Clyde to enjoy the Proſpect of its Stream, and yet far enough from it to be out of the Reach of its Torrents and Floods.

The great Park is about ſeven Miles in Circum⯑ference, and noted for its fine Oaks and Firs, and the ſmall River Aven runs thro' it. It is walled round with Stone, and well ſtock'd with Deer. The leſſer Park is rather a great Incloſure, than a Park; tho' this, as well as the other, is extremely well planted with Trees. The Gardens are finely de⯑ſigned, but I can't ſay they are ſo well finiſhed and kept, as thoſe at Drumlanrig.

Ruglen is another Town in this County, which gives Title of Earl to a Branch of the Family of Hamilton, as has been ſaid.

Here is alſo the Town and Caſtle of Dowglas, which gives Title and Surname to the Dukes of Dowglas: Of which Family more anon.

Crawford Lindſey, in this County, gives Title alſo to the Earl of Crawford, who claims Precedency as firſt Earl.

[126]In Crawford-Moor, Gold has been found in the Sand of the Brooks after Rain, and that in pretty large Pieces, and they dug up Lapis Lazuli there. The Remains of a Roman Cauſeway are to be ſeen in this County from one End to the other.

We then turned to the Left for Stirlingſhire, and, after paſſing the Clyde, came to Kilſyth, a good plain Country Burgh, tolerably well-built, but not large, near which the Marquis of Montroſs gave a great Overthrow to the Covenanters in the Civil Wars. Here, upon a particular Occaſion, we went to ſee the antient Seat of Calendar, which ſeems now in its Decline. The Town of Falkirk is near Calendar Houſe, but has nothing remarkable in it, except the other old decayed Houſe of the Earl of Calendar.

Here we plainly ſaw the Remains of the antient Work, which they call Severus's Wall, Adrian's Wall, or Graham's Dyke, for it is known by all theſe; built by the Romans croſs this narrow Part of the Country, and fortified with Redoubts and Stations to defend the South Country from the In⯑curſions of the Picts, Iriſh, and other wild Nations, in the Highlands. This Wall reached from Dunbriton Firth (ſo they called the Firth of Clyde) to the Forth, and was ſeveral times repaired, till the De⯑ſtruction of the Roman Empire in Britain, with which it periſhed. Yet neither this, while it ſtood, nor the ſtronger one at Newcaſtle, called Severus's Wall, could ſo well preſerve the Country from the Invaſion of Picts and Scots, but the Romans were often obliged to ſend powerful Succours to the Relief of the diſtreſſed Britons. Camden thinks, that this Wall was built by Antoninus Pius, who being adopted by Adrian, aſſumed his Name. Be this as it will, 'tis certain, that in all the Scotiſh Hiſtories, it is called Graham's Dyke.

The Manner of the Wall is beſt underſtood by Mr. Pont's Deſcription in Dr. Gibſon's (now Lord [127] Biſhop of London) Tranſlation of Camden's Britannia, p. 959. Firſt, there appears a Ditch of 12 Feet wide before the Wall, towards the Enemies Country; the Wall is 10 Feet thick, but it is not known how high it was at firſt: There is a paved Way at the Foot of the Wall, five Feet broad, Watch-towers within Call of one another, where Centinels kept Watch Day and Night; a Court of Guard to lodge a ſufficient Number of Soldiers againſt all ſudden Alarms, and a Void within, for the Soldiers Lodg⯑ings. Beſides theſe, there are along the Wall great and noble Forts, ſtrongly intrench'd, and tho' within the Wall, able to receive a whole Army together. The Forts which remained in Mr. Pont's Time, who traced them all, were theſe; one at Langtoun, a Mile Eaſt of Falkirk; one juſt at Rouintree Burn⯑head; one at Weſter-Gowden, about St. Helen's Chapel; one at the Croykill; a very great one at the Top of the Banhill; one at Atchindevy; one at Kirkintilloch, or Kaerpencolloch; one at Eaſt-Calder; one at Hilltoun-Calder; one at Balmudy; one at Simerſtone, and over Kilvin River, and Careſtoun; one at Atermynie; one at Balcaſtle, over-againſt Banhil; one at Kaellybe, over-againſt Croy-hill; one at the Roch-hill, over-againſt the Weſt-wood; a large one at Bankyir, over-againſt Caſtle-Cairy; one at Dumbaſe: In the Ruins of that at Bankyir was found a large Iron Shovel, or ſome Inſtrument reſembling it, ſo weighty that it could hardly be lifted by one Man. At the ſame Fort alſo were diſcover'd ſeveral Sepulchres covered with large rough Stones; and at Dun-Chroe Chyr, by Mony-Abroch, were formerly large Buildings. The Length of the Wall was 36 Scots Miles, beginning between Queen's Ferry and Abercorn; it ranged along Weſt by the Grange and Kineil, to Innereving, ſo on to Falkirk; from whence it proceeded directly to the Foreſt of Cumernald; next, it ran to the great Fort at the Banhill, where have [128] been found ſeveral Stones, ſome with Pictures en⯑graven upon them, and with Inſcriptions. From whence it went to the Peel of Kirkintilloch, the greateſt Fort of all, and ſo Weſtward to Dumbarton, with a great Ditch upon the North-ſide of the Wall all along. It had alſo many ſquare Fortifications in form of Roman Camps.

From Kilſyth we mounted the Hills, black and frightful as they were, to find the Road over the Moors and Mountains to Sterling; and being directed by Guides, we came to the River Carron. The Chanel of a River appeared, indeed, and looked as if it had been cut out by Art thro' horrid Precipices, to mark out a Courſe for the Water; but yet not a Drop was at that time to be ſeen. Great Stones, ſquare, and formed as if cut out by Hand, of a pro⯑digious Size, lay ſcattered in a confuſed manner in the very Courſe of the River, which, as we were told, the Fury of the Water, at other times, had hurried down from the Mountains. If ſo, they muſt have been ſome Ages upon their Jouney down the Stream; for 'tis not probable, that a Flood often comes with a Force ſufficient to move ſuch Stones as theſe, unleſs a great Quantity of Ice, as well as Water, comes down upon them together. But in all Probability, they are not not driven down by the Force of the Water at all; but are Roman Monu⯑ments; of which more by-and-by.

Here we paſſed another Bridge of one Arch, not quite ſo large as that we ſaw in Galloway, but very like it. 'Tis finely built of Free-ſtone, but the Shores being flat, it riſes ſo high, that it is not every Head can bear to ride over it. But there was a Neceſſity of building it with one Arch only; for no Piers in the middle of the Chanel could have borne the Shock of the great Stones, which ſometimes come down this Stream.

[129]From hence, deſcending on the North-ſide, we had a View of the Firth of Forth on our Right, and of the Caſtle of Stirling on our Left. In going to the latter, we paſſed the Water of Bannockburn, fa⯑mous in the Scots Hiſtory for the great Battle fought here between King Robert de Bruce, and the Engliſh Army commanded by King Edward II. in Perſon, in which the Engliſh were utterly overthrown, and that with ſo terrible a Slaughter, that tho' it was the greateſt Army that ever marched from England into Scotland, very few eſcaped, and the King with much ado ſaved himſelf by Flight. How he could ſave himſelf by a little Boat, (as Mr. Camden ſays) I can⯑not underſtand, there being no River near, that had any Boats in it, but the Forth; and then the King muſt have fled North, whereas, to be ſure, he fled to England with all the Speed he could. He might, indeed, have made uſe of a Boat to paſs the Tweed, but that was at leaſt 50 Miles from the Field of Battle.

Whether the Scots magnify this Victory or not, is not my Buſineſs to inquire. 'Tis certain that the Engliſh Army was totally overthrown here; for they loſt 50000 Men, among whom were abundance of their Nobility and Gentry.

This Place is alſo remarkable for the execrable Murder of King James III. whoſe young Son was by ſome diſcontented Nobles worked up to this im⯑pious Deed. But when his Underſtanding ripened, he ſaw the Action in its proper Light, and was ſo greatly affected by it, that he did Penance for ever after by conſtantly wearing an Iron Chain near his Fleſh.

Sterling was our next Stage, an antient Town, and an important Paſs, which, together with Dumbarton, is the Defence of the Lowlands againſt the High⯑lands; for, as one very knowingly ſaid, Dumbarton [130] is the Lock of the Highlands, and Stirling Caſtle keeps the Key. The Town is ſituated, exactly as Edin⯑burgh, on the Ridge of a Hill, ſloping down on both Sides, and the Street gradually aſcending from the Eaſt to the Caſtle, which is at the Weſt-end. It is large and well-built, and tho' it is antient, yet the Buildings are not unlike thoſe of Edinburgh.

The Church is alſo a very ſpacious Building, but not Collegiate. It ſtands in the upper Part of the Town, towards the End, is of good Architecture, and adorned with a lofty Tower. There was for⯑merly a Church, or rather a Collegiate Chapel, in the Caſtle, and likewiſe a private Chapel, or Oratory, in the Palace, for the Royal Family; but they have been long diſuſed.

The Caſtle is not ſo very difficult of Acceſs as that at Edinburgh, but is eſteemed equally ſtrong; for the Works are capable to mount more Cannon, and there is a Battery that commands the Bridge, which is of the utmoſt Importance, and ſeems to have been the main End and Purpoſe for which it was built. The Walls, and all the Outworks, are ſo firm, that they ſeem in as good Condition, as if they had been lately built.

The Palace and Royal Apartments are very magni⯑ficent, but are all in Decay, and likely to continue ſo. This is at preſent alſo the Fate of the Palaces of Linlithgow, Falkland, Dumfermling, and all the other Royal Houſes in Scotland, Holy-rood-houſe at Edinburgh excepted.

In the Park adjoining to the Caſtle were formerly large Gardens. The Figure of the Walks and Graſs-plots is ſtill plainly to be ſeen.

The Park here is large, and walled about, as moſt of the Parks in Scotland are; but there is little or no Wood in it. The Earls of Mar, of the Name of Ereſkin, who claims to be Hereditary Keeper of the King's Children, and of this Caſtle, had a Houſe [131] at the upper End of the Town, very finely ſituated for Proſpect, but not for Security, being too near the Caſtle; for were the Caſtle ever to ſuffer a cloſe Siege, and be vigorouſly defended, it would run a great Riſque of being demoliſhed on one Side or other; beſides, this Nearneſs to the Caſtle makes the Site more confuſed to the Eye.

From a pretty little Flower-garden upon one of the Baſtions on the North-ſide of the Caſtle, we had a moſt agreeable Proſpect over the Valley, and of the Meanders, Turnings, or Reaches of the Ri⯑ver Forth, which are extremely beautiful. They are ſo ſpacious, and return ſo near themſelves with ſo regular and exact a Sweep, that, I believe, the like of it is not to be ſeen in Britain, and perhaps, not in Europe, eſpecially in ſo large a River. The Seine, indeed, between Paris and Roan, fetches a Sweep ſomething like theſe, and ſome Miles longer, but then it is but one; whereas here are three double Reaches, which makes ſix Returns together, and each of them above three Scots Miles in Length: And as the Bows are almoſt equal for Breadth, as the Reaches are for Length, it makes the Figure complete. It is an ad⯑mirable Sight indeed, and continues from a little be⯑low the great Bridge at Stirling to Alloway, the Seat of the Earls of Mar. The Form of this Winding may be conceived by the Length of the Way; for it is twenty-four Miles from Stirling to Alloway by Water, and hardly four Miles by Land.

One would think theſe large Windings of the Stream would check the Tide very much; but, on the contrary, we found the Tide of Flood make up very ſtrong under Stirling-bridge, tho' it does not flow above ſeven or eight Miles farther; for the Stream grows narrow apace, and the rapid Current of all Rivers in this Country checks the Tide, when it comes into narrow Limits: The ſame is the Caſe in the Tyne at Newcaſtle, and the Tweed at Berwick, [132] in both which, tho' the Tide flows as ſtrong in at the Mouth of theſe Rivers as in this, yet the Navigation goes not near ſo far up.

The Bridge of Stirling has only four Arches; but they are very large, and the Chanel widens conſi⯑derably below it. At Alloway it is above a Mile broad, and deep enough for Ships of any Burden; ſo that the Glaſgow Merchants are certainly in the right to ſettle Warehouſes there, and ſhip off their Goods for the Eaſtern Countries.

I was very curious to inquire into the Courſe of this River, as I had been before into that of the Clyde, to ſee if there was a Poſſibility of uniting their Waters for an Inland Navigation; becauſe I had ob⯑ſerved that the Charts and Plans of the Country brought them almoſt to meet. But when I came to ſurvey the Ground exactly, I found the Map-makers greatly miſtaken, and that they had not only given the Situation and Courſes of the Rivers wrong, but the Diſtances alſo. However, upon the whole, I ſaw plainly, that notwithſtanding ſeveral Circum⯑ſtances which might obſtruct it, and cauſe the Work⯑men to fetch ſome winding Turns out of the Way, yet a Canal of about 18 Miles would fairly join the Rivers, and make a clear Navigation from the Iriſh to the German Sea; and that this could be done with⯑out any conſiderable Obſtruction; for they would not have Occaſion for above four Sluices in the whole Way, and thoſe only to head a Baſon, or Re⯑ceptacle, to contain a Fluſh of Water, to puſh on the Veſſels either way, as Occaſion required.

How eaſy ſuch a Work would be, and how ad⯑vantageous, not to Scotland only, but even to Eng⯑land and Ireland, the Thing itſelf will explain at firſt Sight. I could enter upon particular Deſcriptions of the Work, and anſwer all the Objections raiſed from the great Quantity of Waters in the Winter, and the [133] Force and Fury of their Streams; but I have no room for it here.

There is a very conſiderable Manufacture at Stir⯑ling for Serges or Shalloons, which they make and dye very well; nor has the Engliſh Manufacture for Shalloons broke in ſo much upon them as it was ap⯑prehended it would. This Manufacture is a great Support to the poor People that are employed in it, who are thereby enabled to live very comfortably.

The Family of Ereſkine is very conſiderable here; for beſides the Earls of Mar and Buchan, there are ſeveral Gentlemen of Quality of that Name.

We had here a very fine Proſpect both Eaſt and Weſt: Eaſtward we could plainly ſee the Caſtle of Edinburgh, and the Hill, called Arthur's Seat, in the Royal Park at Holy-rood-houſe; and Weſtward we could ſee Dumbarton Caſtle. To the Northward we ſaw Dumblane, and the Field of Battle, called Sheriffmuir, between it and Sterling.

But our Buſineſs was not to the North yet; for having a Part of the Border to view, we went from Stirling to the South-eaſt, over ſome of the ſame Hills we paſſed at our coming hither, that we might leave nothing behind to oblige us to come this Way again. The Duke of Argyll has a ſmall Houſe here, which the Family call the Lowland Houſe, to diſtin⯑guiſh it from the many Seats they are poſſeſſed of in the Highlands. This Seat belonged formerly to the Earls of Stirling. The County round it, South of the Forth, is called Stirlingſhire, or Strivelingſhire.

Stirling was one of the Boundaries of the Roman Empire in Britain, as appears by the Inſcription on a Stone below the Caſtle, towards the Bridge, import⯑ing, That one of the Wings of their Army kept Guard there. On the Right of the Town ſtood the noble Abbey of Cambuſkenneth. The River Carron, which I mentioned before, is famous for ſome Roman Monuments, particularly two little Hills, [134] called by the Vulgar Dunipace, i. e. Hills of Peace, and two Miles lower is a round Edifice of Stone, which, by the Deſcription, reſembles what the Romans called the Temple of Terminus. But Buchanan thinks, they were rather Monuments of ſome great Actions performed here.

From Stirling we went directly to Linlithgow, a large Town, well built, with a ſtately Town-houſe, but moſt famous for the noble Palace of the Kings of Scotland, which is the leaſt decayed of all the reſt; for King James VI. repaired, or rather rebuilt it; and his two Sons Prince Henry, and Prince Charles, afterwards King of Eng⯑land, had Apartments here, which a Traveller may eaſily diſtinguiſh by the different Coats of Arms, eſpecially over thoſe called the Prince's Lodgings.

This Palace ſtands on a riſing Ground, which runs into the Lake, in form of an Amphitheatre, and has a Deſcent reſembling Terrace-walks. There are two Towers at each Corner of the Court, with Apartments, and a curious Fountain in the Middle, adorned with ſeveral fine Statues, from whence the Water riſes to a good Height. A noble Park alſo belongs to it.

The Church of St. Michael makes a Part of this Building, and is a Wing on the Right-hand of the firſt Court, as the proper Offices make the Left. The Inner-court is very large and elegant for the Taſte of the Times. In the Middle of this is the large Fountain I have mentioned, which ſtill ſhews the Remains of ſome good Carving, and other Orna⯑ments.

Here King James V. reſtored the Order of the Knights of St. Andrew, as the Order of Knights of the Bath lately was in England, and erected a Throne and Stalls for them in St. Michael's Church, making [135] it the Chapel of the Order. He was likewiſe the firſt who ordered the Thiſtle to be added to the Badge of the Order, and the Motto, viz. Nemo me impune laceſſet, which is worn about it in the Royal Arms, was of his Invention. This Prince ſeems to have been very much honoured in the World; for he wore the Badges of three Orders beſides his own; viz. That of the Garter, conferred upon him by his Uncle, the King of England; that of the Golden Fleece, by the Emperor, then King of Spain; that of St. Michael, by the King of France.

In his Time the Green Ribband was worn by the Knights Companions of this Order; but King James VII. changed it to the Blue, like that of the Knights of the Garter in England. After the Union, Queen Anne, the Sovereign of both, to diſtinguiſh them, reſtored the Green Ribband, and intended to have called a Chapter of the Order, to bring it once more to its full Luſtre, but was pre⯑vented by Death.

In this Town the Earl of Murray, Lord Regent, was murdered with a Muſket-bullet ſhot by one Hamilton. This Earl was a natural Son of King James V. and aſpiring to the Crown, joined with the Reformers, having firſt got the Revenues of the Convents of St. Andrews and Pittenweem, whereof he was Abbot, or Prior, ſecured to him and his Heirs. His Ambition and Intrigues were the chief Cauſe of almoſt all the Troubles of Queen Mary's Reign. But I ſhall have Occaſion to mention him in another Place.

At Linlithgow is a great Linen Manufacture, as there is at Glaſgow; and the Water of the Lake here is eſteemed ſo extraordinary for Bleaching or Whitening of Linen Cloth, that a vaſt deal of it is brought hither from other Parts of the Country for that Purpoſe. This Lake is ſituate on the North-ſide of the Town, and between it and the Palace [136] are Terrace-walks, which are ſo beautiful, that a more delightful Place can ſcarce be ſeen.

In the Year 1722. An Act paſſed for laying Two-penies Scots on every Scots Pint of Ale or Beer ſold in Linlithgow, and its Liberties, in order to repair the publick Buildings, which were run to Decay, ſuch as the Church and Town-houſe, &c. to ſupply ſuch Parts of the Town with freſh Water, as want it; to pave and amend the Streets, and alſo the Avenues within a Mile round the Town; for diſcharging the Town-Debts, and other neceſſary Purpoſes. Great Pro⯑greſs was made in theſe laudable Undertakings by virtue of this Act; but the End being not ſufficiently attained, nor likely to be, at the Expiration of the Act, theſe Duties were farther continued for 21 Years more, by an Act which paſſed in the Year 1733. which, it is not doubted, will completely an⯑ſwer all the propoſed Ends, to the great Advantage of the Town and Country.

Forfichen, formerly the Reſidence of the Knights of Malta, is two Miles South-weſt from Linlithgow.

Near a Place called Kips, South from this Town, is an antient Chapel or Altar of great unpoliſhed Stones, leaning ſo as to ſupport one another. The Vulgar call them Arthur's Oven; but the Learned think them to be a Temple of Terminus, built by the Romans; and others ſtill there are, who con⯑jecture them to be a Temple of the Celts or Druids. Near this Chapel or Altar is a Circle of great Stones, and on two adjacent Hills are the Remains of old Camps, with great Heaps of Stones, and antient Graves, which ſome think Roman Works.

About four Miles North from Linlithgow lies the Caſtle of Abercorn, ſuppoſed to be the Kebercurnig of Bede, where began the Roman Wall, thought to be begun by Severus.

From Linlithgow we turned to the Right, and following the Clyde upwards, from a little above [137] Hamilton, where we were before, we came into the Shire of Clydſale. This Tract has ſome Remains of Roman Antiquity; for from Errick-ſtone to Mauls Mitre, which borders upon the Shire of Renfrew, are evident Footſteps of a Roman Cauſeway for ſeve⯑ral Miles together; and there is a Tradition, that another Roman Street went from Lanark to the Ro⯑man Camp near Falkirk.

Lanark is the Capital of this County, but is no extraordinary Town; its Bridge, however, is very remarkable. It was built at a vaſt Expence by the Inhabitants: But the violent Current of the Water rendering the keeping it in Repair too chargeable for the Town to ſupport, and making it require fre⯑quent Reparations, an Act of the Scotiſh Parliament paſſed, Anno 1703. impowering them to collect Tolls for Pontage, in order to keep up the ſame. This Act was in Force for 19 Years, and there was ſo much Reaſon for it, and the Bridge was of ſo great Uſe to the County, that tho' the Duties expired in the Year 1722. yet the Rates were voluntarily paid for many Years; till ſome Diſputes ariſing with ſome ſelfiſh Perſons, who wanted to reap the Fruits of other Peoples Labour for nothing, an Act was paſſed, in the 10th of King George II. for enabling the Ma⯑giſtrates to repair and maintain ſo uſeful a Work. This Act is to continue in Force for 31 Years, and is ſo reaſonable, that it ought, and perhaps will be, perpetuated: For the Rates are only 6d. Sterling for every Coach or Chariot drawn by four or more Horſes; 2d. for every Cart or Wheel-carriage; 1d. for every Sledge or Horſe loaded or unloaded; Two-thirds of a Peny for every Ox, Cow, or Bull; One-ſixth of a Peny for every Calf, Hog, Sheep or Lamb; and the ſame for every Foot Paſſenger; who muſt be a worſe Beaſt than any I have named, to grudge it for ſo great a Convenience.

[138]A little below this Town the River Dowglas falls into the Clyde, and gives the Name of Dowglaſdale to the Lands near it. In a dull Vale near this River ſtands a very old Caſtle, which has been the paternal Seat of the great Family of Dowglas for above a thou⯑ſand Years, for which Reaſon it is ſtill kept in Re⯑pair: But by the frequent Additions to the Building, it is become ſuch a wild irregular Maſs, that, at a Diſtance, it ſeems rather like a Town than a ſingle Fabrick; tho' the Apartments are very noble.

The complete Hiſtory of this Family would take up a Volume by itſelf, as it actually has in a late Work, where the Heroes of the Name are fully ſet forth, and all the illuſtrious Actions they have been concerned in. I ſhall only obſerve, that there are no leſs than Seven Branches of this Family in the Peerage of Great Britain, namely, the Duke of Dowglas, who is Chief of the Name, the Duke of Queenſberry and Dover, the Earls of Morton, Dum⯑barton, and March, and the Lords Mordington and Forfar, the latter of whom was unhappily killed at the Fight near Dumblaine, againſt the Pretender.

The Country abounds with Coals, Peat and Lime⯑ſtone; but what turns to the greateſt Profit, are the Lead-mines belonging to the Earl of Hopton; not far from which (after Rains) the Country People find Pieces of Gold, ſome of which are of a con⯑ſiderable Bigneſs. This is thought to be what Cam⯑den calls Crawford-Moor, where Lapis Lazuli is daily dug up with little Trouble, as I have ſaid.

Here we left the laſt-mentioned wild Place on the Right, and went Weſtward into the Shire of Peebles. The firſt Town we came to of any Note was Peebles, which ſtands on the Bank of the Tweed, and is Capital of the County. The Town is ſmall, and but very indifferently built or inhabited, yet there are ſome good Houſes in it. It was formerly re⯑markable for three Churches, three Gates, three [139] Streets, and three Bridges, of which that over Tweed has five Arches.

The Country hereabouts is very hilly; but thoſe Hills are covered with Sheep, which are a principal Part of the Eſtates of the Gentry. A great Quantity of them are ſent into England, to the great Damage of the Poor, who are thereby deprived of the Ad⯑vantage of manufacturing their Wool. They uſed formerly to export it to France; but by the Act of Union, the Exportation of it was prohibited upon the ſevereſt Penalties; and to make the Gentlemen of the Southern Counties amends for this Loſs, a great Sum of Money was at that time granted them as an Equivalent, as I have mentioned before, to encourage them to ſet the Poor to work.

This County of Tweedale has two remarkable Lakes in it; the one called Weſt-water Lake, abounds ſo with Eels and other Fiſh, about Auguſt, that, during a Weſt Wind, they come out in ſuch Shoals into a ſmall River which runs from the Lake, that, we were told, they are ready to overthrow the People who go in to catch them. The other is Lochgenen Lake, upon Genen-hill, which falls into Annandale from a Precipice of 250 Feet high, that many times Fiſhes are killed by the Fall of the Water.

The Frazers were Anceſtors by Marriage to the Family of Tweedale; and of this Name was that great Captain, who contributed ſo much to the Victory which the Scots obtained in one Day over three Engliſh Armies at Roſbin 1301. during Wal⯑lace's Adminiſtration.

Merlin is ſaid to be buried in the Church-yard of Drumelzier, in this County; and according to an old Prophecy, That the Kingdoms ſhould be united, when Tweed and Pauſel met at his Grave, they ſay that it happened ſo by an Inundation, when King James VI. came to the Crown of England, Anno [140] 1603. the only time, before or ſince, it ever did ſo.

Some Remains of Antiquity are viſible in this County. The Place called Randal's Trench ſeems to have been a Roman Camp, and a Cauſeway leads from it half a Mile together to the Town of Lyne.

In this County are two very lively Monuments of the Vanity of human Glory. The firſt is the Foun⯑dation of a prodigious Building (more like a Royal Palace, than the Seat of a private Nobleman) begun by the Earl of Morton, whoſe Head was no ſooner cut off, than his Deſign periſhed; for it has never ſince been carried on.

The other is the Palace of Traquair, built and finiſhed by the late Earl of Traquair, for ſome Years Lord High Treaſurer of Scotland, and a Perſon in the higheſt Poſts both of Honour and Profit in the Kingdom, who yet loſt all by the Fatality of the Times; for growing into univerſal Diſlike by his Conduct under King Charles I. he ſunk into the moſt abject Condition of human Life, even to want Bread, and to take Alms, and died in thoſe miſerable Cir⯑cumſtances about a Year before the Reſtoration. The Houſe is noble, the Deſign great, and well finiſhed; but the Owner was ſoon turned out of it by his Enemies, who thought the ſparing his Life an Act of great Mercy.

Biſhop Burnet repreſents this Earl as a very mean-ſpirited Man, and one that ſuffered himſelf to be made ſo vile a Tool in other Peoples Miſchiefs, that he fell unpitied. 'Tis very remarkable, that he was deſpiſed even by the Party which he had ſerved, and but too faithfully adhered to.

Here we ſaw the Ruins of the once famous Abbey of Melroſs, the Greatneſs of which may be a little gueſſed at by the vaſt Extent of its Remains. One may ſtill diſtinguiſh many noble Parts of the Mo⯑naſtery, particularly the great Church or Chapel, as [141] large as ſome Cathedrals, the Choir of which is vi⯑ſible, and 140 Feet in Length, beſides what may have been pulled down at the Eaſt-end; and by the Thickneſs of the Foundations there muſt have been a large and ſtrong Tower, or Steeple, in the Centre of the Church. There are likewiſe ſeveral Frag⯑ments of the Houſe itſelf; and the Court, and other Buildings are ſo viſible, that 'tis eaſy to know it was a moſt magnificent Place in its Day.

Following the Courſe of the Tweed, we paſſed by abundance of antient Seats of Gentlemen, whoſe Poſſeſſions are large in this Country; ſuch as that of the Family of Dowglas, of whom one is called Dow⯑glas of Cavers, who is Hereditary Sheriff of the County; and who ſhews the Standard of the brave Lord Dowglas, who was killed at the Battle of Ot⯑terburn, falſely, as the Scots ſay, called Cheviot Chaſe (which I have mentioned in Vol. III.) juſt as he had gained the Victory; as alſo the Mace of Iron he fought with.

The Country, South-eaſt from Tweedale, is called Tiviotdale, or the Shire of Roxburgh. In which are ſome Footſteps of Roman Encampments, and a Military Way runs from Hounam to Tweed, called the Roman Cauſeway, and vulgarly, the rugged Cauſeway.

The Town and Caſtle of Roxburgh are both now demoliſhed. They were famous in the Hiſtory of both Nations, during their mutual Wars, when the Town was frequently taken and retaken, and in the Siege of which King James II. of Scotland was killed by the burſting of a Gun.

Jedburgh is a Royal Burgh, on the River Jed. It was one of thoſe Towns that ſuffered in the Re⯑bellion in 1715. and being beſide in Debt, and its Revenue ſmall to anſwer its Outgoings; and it being well ſituated for manufacturing coarſe Wool; but greatly ſuffering for want of freſh Water; and [142] its publick Buildings, Bridges, Streets, and Works, greatly out of Repair; for theſe Reaſons, and alſo to enable the Inhabitants to erect Workhouſes, &c. for the Manufacture aforeſaid, an Act paſſed 1720. impoſing a Duty of Two-penies Scots upon every Pint of Scots Ale, &c. to be vended within the ſaid Town and its Liberties; and it now reaps the good Effects of it.

The Duke of Roxburgh has a very great Eſtate. His Grace's Houſe, called Fleurs, has been finely embelliſhed of late Years, and is a noble Seat; and the Country about it, which was formerly wild and rugged, is now greatly impaired and cultivated, and fine Plantations of Trees and Viſta's ſurround the Houſe,

From hence we came to Kelſo, a handſome Mar⯑ket-town upon the Bank of Tweed, which, being ſo near the Engliſh Border, and having one of the great Roads from Edinburgh to Newcaſtle lying thro' it, which is a nearer Way by far than by that thro' Berwick, is a conſiderable Thorough-fare to England. They only want a good Bridge over the Tweed; for at preſent they have only a Ferry juſt at the Town, and a good Ford thro' the River a little below it.

The Country about Kelſo is very pleaſant and fruitful on both Sides the Tweed. The River here does not part England from Scotland; but you are upon Scots Ground for four Miles, or thereabouts, on the South-ſide of the Tweed; and the farther Weſt, the more the Tweed lies within the Limits of the Country.

From Kelſo we went North, where we paſſed thro' Lauderdale, a long Valley on both Sides of the little River Lauder, from whence the Family of Maitland, firſt Earls, then Dukes, and now Earls again, took their Title.

The Country is good here, and fenced with Hills on both Sides. The River Lauder runs through it, keeping its Courſe due North.

[143]The Town of Lauder is a Royal Burgh, the Seat of the Commiſſariot; and very pleaſantly ſitu⯑ated. 'Tis remarkable for the Execution done upon the Minions of King James III. who, headed by the Earls of Angus, took them out of the Court, and hang'd them over Lauder-bridge. The Seat of the noble Family of Maitland, Earls of Lauderdale, is called Lauderfort: It is a ſtately Houſe, about the Middle of the Valley, on the River, but not large.

We kept the great Road over a high Ridge of Mountains, from whence we had a plain View of Mid-Lothian. One of theſe Mountains is called Soutra-hill, and belongs to a Branch of the Family of Maitland, the elder Brother of which Houſe was a Gentleman of great Merit, and raiſed himſelf by his perſonal Accompliſhments to the higheſt Poſts in the Army. At the Battle of Treves in Germany, where the French Army, under the Mareſchal de Cre⯑qui, was defeated by the Germans, commanded by the old Duke of Zell, he had the Misfortune to loſe one of his Hands, which he ſupplied with another of Steel, from whence he was called Handy Mait⯑land. About the Time of the Union he was Lieu⯑tenant-General of the Queen's Armies, Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, and Governor of Fort-William and Inverlochy.

I could not paſs this Way to Edinburgh without going off a little to the Right, to ſee two very fine Seats. One of them is an old Abbey belonging to the Marquis of Lothian, of the antient Name of Ker, a younger Branch of the Houſe of Roxburgh, at Newbottle; whoſe Predeceſſor, Mark Ker, being Abbot of it, turned Proteſtant, and got it ſettled on him and his Heirs. 'Tis an old Building, but finely ſituated among the moſt agreeable Walks and Rows of Trees, all full grown, and contains one of the beſt choſen Collections of Pictures, Statues, and Buſts, in Scotland.

[144]About a Mile from hence is the Duke of Buc⯑cleugh's Houſe at Dalkeith, without Exception the fineſt and largeſt new-built Houſe in Scotland. It was built by the late Ducheſs, Relict of the Duke of Monmouth, on the Ground where the old Caſtle of Dalkeith ſtood, which was the Eſtate of the Great Earl of Morton, Regent of Scotland, who was be⯑headed under King James VI. by an Engine he himſelf had introduced into this Country, as I have mentioned, at Halifax, in Vol. III. He ſuffered for being acceſſory to, and acquainted with the bar⯑barous Deſign of the Lord Darnley's Murder.

This Palace ſtands on a riſing Ground on the Edge of the River North-Eſk, from whence it overlooks the Plain, with a Majeſty like that of Windſor on the Bank of the Thames, making ſome Allowance for the Difference of the two Rivers. The Park is very large, and beautified with Water-works, Jets d' Eau, and a Canal, the expenſive Work of the late Ducheſs, and the preſent Duke.

The Inſide of this magnificent Palace is anſwerable to the Grandeur of the Family, being very richly furniſhed, and adorned with many fine Paintings, eſpecially of the Ladies of the Engliſh Court, and ſome Royal Originals.

Juſt beyond the Park is Dalkeith, a pretty large Market-town, and the more conſiderable for being ſo near Edinburgh; for great Quantities of Pro⯑viſions are brought hither from the Southern Countries, which are ſold here, and afterwards ſent to that City.

I will conclude this Letter with the following Inſcription on the Tombſtone of one Margaret Scott, who died in the Town of Dalkeith February 9. 1738.

LETTER IV. CONTAINING A Deſcription of the antient Caledonia, or Northern Part of Scotland; and particu⯑larly of the Shires and Towns of Fife, St. Andrews, Perth, Dumblain, Alloway, Culroſs, Scone, Angus, Dundee, Mon⯑troſe, Aberdeen, Buchan, Murray, El⯑gin, Inverneſs, and the Highlands, &c.

I AM now to enter the true and real Caledonia; for that Part of the Country on the North of the Firth of Forth is alone called by that Name, and was antiently known by no other.

I croſſed the River at Queensferry, ſeven Miles Weſt of Edinburgh, into the Shire of Fife; and as the moſt conſiderable Places in this County are on the Sea-ſide, or near it, I directed my Journey Eaſt along the Coaſt. The firſt Place we came to was the Burgh of Innerkeithin, an an⯑tient walled Town, with a ſpacious Harbour opening from the Eaſt into the River, which has been lately [147] much neglected for want of Trade. The Town however is large, and ſtill populous.

I can't paſs over a tragical Story, which happened in this Town in the Reign of the late Queen Anne. The Maſter of Burleigh (ſo the eldeſt Son of a Lord or Viſcount is called, while the Father is living) fell in Love with a young Woman in his Father's Family, but could not prevail with her either to marry him, or to ſacrifice her Virtue to him; which being known, ſhe was ſent away, and he perſuaded to travel. However, before his Departure, he de⯑clared ſhe ſhould be his Wife at his Return; and if any one elſe ſhould marry her in his Abſence, he would murder him. This paſſed without much Notice, and the young Woman was ſoon after mar⯑ried to a School-maſter in this Town.

The Gentleman returned, and underſtanding who was her Huſband, went to his Houſe at Noon-day, pull'd out a Piſtol, and ſhot him dead on the Spot, making his Eſcape unmoleſted.

But a Proclamation being afterwards iſſued, with a Reward of 200l. for apprehending him, he was at laſt taken, and tried at Edinburgh by the Lords of the Juſticiary, and condemned to have his Head cut off. Great Interceſſion was made to the Queen for his Pardon, which proving ineffectual, he found means to make his Eſcape out of the Tolbooth of Edinburgh, diſguiſed in his Siſter's Cloaths, the Night before he was to have been executed.

After that, he appeared in the late Rebellion, and was in the Battle of Dumblane, or Sheriffmuir, but eſcaped again with his Life, tho' his Eſtate, which was but ſmall, was forfeited among the reſt.

Near Innerkeithin, a little within the Land, ſtands the antient Town of Dumfermling, which is now in a very ruinous State. For, 1. Here is a decayed Monaſtery, which before the Reformation was very large, but then demoliſhed, ſaving a Part, which [148] was turned into a Parochial Church; and even that is now decayed, and with it the Monuments of ſe⯑veral Kings and Queens of Scotland; particularly, that of Malcolm III. who founded the Monaſtery.

2. Here is a decayed Court, or Royal Palace, of the Kings of Scotland; but by whom built, is uncer⯑tain. Almoſt all King James the Sixth's Children were born in it, particularly King Charles I. and the Princeſs Elizabeth, afterwards Queen of Bohemia; and his Queen made this Place her particular Reſi⯑dence, and had it ſettled upon her as her Jointure: Here ſhe built herſelf an Apartment over the Arch of the great Gate for her particular Retirement, having a Gallery reaching from it to the Royal Lodgings. All is now ruinous.

3. Here is a decayed Town, the natural Conſe⯑quence of the Decay of the Palace. The Treat⯑ment King Charles II. met with here, from the Covenanters, was ſufficient to make him take a Diſguſt to the Place.

The Church has ſtill a venerable Face, and at a Di⯑ſtance ſeems a mighty Pile, the Building being once vaſtly large. What is left appears too heavy for the preſent Dimenſions. The Church itſelf is ſaid to be as long as the Cathedral of Carliſle, deſigned by the Model of that at Glaſgow; but I rather think, that at Glaſgow was deſigned by the Model of this at Dumfermling; for it ſeems the moſt antient.

The People are poor, but would be poorer, if they had not the Manufacture of Linen for their Support, the Diaper and better Sort of Linen-trade being carried on here, and in the neighbouring Towns, with more Hands than ordinary. The Marquis of Tweedale has a great Eſtate in theſe Parts, and is hereditary Chamberlain or Keeper of the Royal Houſe.

The Rocking Stone, near Balvaird in Fife, was a remarkable Curioſity. It was broken by Oliver [149] Cromwell's Soldiers, and then it was diſcovered, that its Motion was performed by an egg-ſhaped Extube⯑rance in the Middle of the under Surface of the upper Stone, which was inſerted in a Cavity in the Surface of the lower Stone. As the lower Stone was flat, the upper was globular; and not only a juſt Pro⯑portion in the Motion was calculated from the Weight of the Stone, and the Wideneſs of the Ca⯑vity, as well as the oval Figure of the inſerted Pro⯑minence; but the vaſt Bulk of the upper Stone ab⯑ſolutely conceal'd the Mechaniſm of the Motion; and, the better ſtill to impoſe on the Vulgar, there were two or three ſurrounding flat Stones, tho' that only in the Middle was concerned in the Feat. By this pretended Miracle they condemn'd of Perjury, or acquitted, as their Intereſt or Affection led them; and often brought Criminals to confeſs what could be no other way extorted from them.

From turning Eaſt, we ſaw many Seats of private Gentlemen, and ſome of Noblemen, particularly one belonging to the Earl of Morton, at Aberdour; which fronts the Firth to the South, and the Grounds belonging to it reach down to the Shore.

From this Part of the Firth, to the Mouth of Innerkeithin Harbour, is a very good Road for Ships, the Water being deep, and the Ground good; but the Weſtern Part, which they call St. Margaret's Bay, is a ſteep Shore and rocky, there being 20 Fathom Water within a Ship's Length of the Rocks. So that if a South-eaſt Wind blows hard, it may be dangerous riding in it: But this Wind blows ſo ſeldom, that the Ships often venture it.

He that will view the County of Fife, which is wedg'd in by the Forth and the Tay, and ſhoots out far into the Eaſt, muſt, as I ſaid before, go round the Coaſt; and yet there are four or five Places of Note in the Middle of the County, which are ſu⯑perior to all the reſt, and muſt not be omitted: Kin⯑roſs, [150] Leſsly, Falkland, Melvil, Balgony, and Cow⯑par; the laſt a Town, the others great Houſes, and one, viz. Falkland, a Royal Palace, and once the moſt in Requeſt of all the Royal Houſes in Scotland.

An Engliſh Reader will be ſurpriſed to hear of ſuch Numbers of Palaces; but however mean our Thoughts may be of the Scots Court in antient Times, their Kings had more fine Palaces than moſt Princes in Europe; for in the Time of King James IV. they had all in good Repair and in Uſe, the ſeveral Royal Palaces of Holy-rood-houſe, and the Caſtle at Edinburgh, the Royal Palace in the Caſtle at Sterling, Linlithgow, Dumfermling, Falkland, Scone, the Caſtles of Dumbarton, Blackneſs, and Inverneſs.

Beſides leſſer Seats and Hunting-houſes, of which King James V. had ſeveral; and the ſeveral Palaces of Earl Morton and others, which were forfeited into the King's Hands.

The South Coaſt of the County of Fife abounds with Towns; and the following Thirteen are Royal Burghs, viz. Innerkeithin, Bruntiſland, King⯑born, Kirkaldy, Dyſart, Pittenweem, Anſtruther Weſter, Anſtruther Eaſter, Kilrinny, Crail, St. An⯑drews, all on the Coaſt, Dumfermling and Cowpar in the midſt of the County. And it contains alſo theſe other Towns of Note; viz. Toryburn, Aber⯑dour, the two Weemys's, Levinſmouth, Ely, St. Monan's, and Newburg on the Tay: And it has in it four Preſbyteries; viz. at Cowpar, St. Andrews, Kirkaldy and Dumfermling.

The Shire itſelf takes its Name from Fyfus, ſur⯑named Duffus, to whom it was granted by King Kenneth II. for his Valour againſt the Picts, about the Year 840. His Poſterity were firſt called Thanes of Fife, and afterwards Earls by Malcolm II. about the Year 1057. and endow'd with greater [151] Privileges than any other Earls of the Kingdom, be⯑cauſe of their extraordinary Services: A famous Monument of which, was that called Clan Mac⯑duff's Croſs, on the publick Road near Abernethy, to which if any within the 9th Degree to the great Macduff, who was the chief Inſtrument of ſubdu⯑ing the Tyrant Macbeth, ſhould have recourſe in caſe of Manſlaughter, he was to be pardon'd on paying a ſmall Number of Cattle. This Monument had an Inſcription importing thoſe Privileges, now worn out, and was in ſuch antiquated Terms, mixed with Macaronick, or half Latin Words, that few Men now living would have been able to make it out.

From this Macduff the Families of Dowglas, Weemys, and the Clan Chattau, are ſaid to be de⯑ſcended. The Earl of Rothes is hereditary Sheriff of Fife.

Having ſeen Aberdour, I took a Turn, at a Friend's Invitation, to Leſsly; but by the Way ſtopt at Kin⯑roſs, where we had a View of two Things worth noting. Firſt, The famous Lake or Lough, called Lough Leven, in an Iſland of which ſtands the Caſtle, where Queen Mary, commonly known in England by the Name of Queen of Scots, was con⯑fined by the firſt Reformers, being firſt compelled to quit her Favourite Bothwell, and afterwards her Crown; but from which ſhe found means to make her Eſcape, tho', as it prov'd, Out of the Frying-pan into the Fire.

The Lough itſelf is worth ſeeing; 'tis very large, being above 10 Miles in Circumference, in ſome Places deep, and famous for Fiſh. Formerly it had good Salmon, but now chiefly Trouts, Perch, Pikes, and other ſmall Fry; out of it flows the River Leven, which runs from thence to Leſsly.

At the Weſt-end of the Lake, (the Gardens reaching down to the very Water's Edge) ſtands the moſt beautiful and regular Piece of Architecture [152] (for a private Gentleman's Seat) in all Scotland; I mean the Houſe of Kinroſs, belonging to Sir John Hope Bruce, Bart. The Town, which has a very good Market and a Street tolerably well built, lies at a little Diſtance from the Houſe, ſo as not to obtrude upon its Privacy, and yet ſo as to be ready to wait upon its Call. 'Tis all Beauty; the Stone is white and fine, the Order regular, the Contrivance elegant, the Workmanſhip exquiſite. Dryden's Lines, in⯑tended for a Compliment on his Friend's Poetry, are here literally true.

Sir William Bruce, the Surveyor-General of the Works, the Wren of North Britain, was the Founder, as well as Architect, of this Houſe. That Gentleman has left many noble Monuments of his admirable Skill and Taſte in thoſe Parts; ſuch as the Palace of Holy-rood at Edinburgh; the Houſe of Rothes, and this at Kinroſs, beſides ſeveral others.

The Situation of this Houſe of Kinroſs would be diſliked by ſome for its being ſo very near the Water, inſomuch that ſometimes, when the Lake is ſwelled by Winter Rains, and melted Snows, it reaches to the very Gardens; but as the Country round is dry, free from ſtagnated Boggs, and unhealthy Marſhes, this is of very little Inconvenience, if any. Sir William planted Numbers of Fir-trees upon the Land round his Houſe, which the preſent Poſſeſſor, Sir John Hope Bruce, is as careful to improve as his Grandfather was to plant. Poſterity will find the Advantage of this Taſte, which, if it ſpreads as it has begun, will in time make Scotland a ſecond Norway for Fir; for the Lowlands, as well as the Highlands, will be overſpread with Timber.

[153]From Kinroſs I came to Leſsly, where I had a full View of the Palace of the Earl of Rothes, built in the Reign of King Charles II. by the ſaid Sir William Bruce.

Here it was King James II. when Duke of York, lodged, moſt part of the Time, when he was obliged by his Brother to retire into Scotland; and his Apartments are ſtill called the Duke of York's Lodgings.

The Magnificence of the Inſide of this Houſe is unuſually great; but what is very particular, is the long Gallery, which is the full Length of one Side of the Building, and is filled with Paintings, but eſpecially (as that is at Drumlanrig) of the great Anceſtors of the Houſe of Rothes, or Leſsly, at full Lengths, and in their Robes of Office.

The Rooms of State at Kinroſs are well ſupply'd with very fine and valuable Pictures, many of which are of Princes, &c. but moſt, if not all the full Lengths in this Gallery of Rothes, are of the Family, and the immediate Anceſtors, of the preſent Earl, moſt of them having been Peers, and poſſeſſed of the greateſt Places of Truſt in Scotland, from the Year 1320. to 1725. ſo that you may imagine there may well be enough to furniſh a Gallery.

Tho' the Houſe is magnificent, I cannot ſay the Situation of it is ſo advantageous as that of ſome other Seats; for it has no excellent Proſpect from the grand Town, tho' it ſtands on the Banks of the Leven juſt where another ſmaller River joins it.

The Park on the South-ſide is very beautiful, ſix Miles in Circumference, walled round and diverſified with little Woods of Fir-trees, which have Viſtas reaching thro' them up to the Houſe. The Gardens are at the Eaſt-end of the Houſe, well deſigned and planted, extending to the Angle where the two Rivers meet; ſo that they are watered on the North and Eaſt-ſide, and on the South are parted [154] with a Wall from the Park, the Weſt-end of them beginning from the Houſe.

The Town of Leſsly (ſeated at a ſmall Diſtance Weſt from the Houſe, or a little North-weſt) has a good Market, but is, in no other reſpect, conſider⯑able. The Houſe aforeſaid is the principal Glory of the Place.

From Leſsly, we turn'd South to the Coaſt, and came to Bruntiſland, ſituated in the middle of the North-ſide of the River Forth, juſt oppoſite to Leith; ſo that we have from hence a fair Proſpect as well of the Road of Leith, as of the City and Caſtle of Edinburgh. Here is a very commodious Harbour, which has no Bar, but enters, as if it had been made by Hand, into the Centre of the Town; ſo that the Ships lie with their broad Sides to the very Houſes; and it is the common Port of Safety to all Ships that happen to be forced up the Firth by Storms or contrary Winds: And Ships trading on this Coaſt frequently winter here. The Water is commonly 18, and at Spring-tides, 26 Feet deep within the Harbour; ſo that it is capable of receiving and careening the largeſt Men of War. The Town is adorned alſo with a beautiful Church, and has a large Town-houſe and Gaol. But the Harbour having ſuffered much by Time, and by Storms; and the Church, Town-houſe and Gaol, becoming ruinous, an Act paſſed Anno 1719. for laying a Duty of Two-penies Scots upon every Scots Pint of Beer, &c. ſold within the Town and Liberties, for increaſing the Revenues, reſtoring the Harbour, and repairing the publick Structures above-mentioned.

Here is a Manufacture of Linen, as there is upon all the Coaſt of Fife, and eſpecially for Green-cloth, as it is called, which has been ſeveral Years in great Demand in England for Printing or Painting, in the room of Calicoes, which are prohibited there.

[155]Next to Bruntiſland, upon the ſame Coaſt, is Kinghorn, noted for its Thread Manufacture, which the Women chiefly carry on; the Men being gene⯑rally Seamen upon all this Coaſt, as high as the Queen's-Ferry.

Great Numbers of Porpoiſes are ſeen almoſt con⯑ſtantly in this Firth, which the Men make a Practice of ſhooting, and then bring on Shore, and boil their Fat into Train Oil, as they do Whales, and ſeveral other great Fiſh, which they ſometimes meet with thereabout. But the Firth affords a much more re⯑gular Fiſhing-trade lower down; of which in its Place.

The Ferry from Leith to the Shore of Fife, is fixed in Kinghorn, which is of conſiderable Advantage to it; tho' ſometimes the Boats by Streſs of Weather, are driven into Bruntiſland.

Eaſt of this Town is Kirkcaldy, a larger, more populous, and better-built Town than the other, and indeed, than any on this Coaſt. It conſiſts chiefly of one Street running along the Shore, from Eaſt to Weſt, a full Mile, very well built. It has ſome conſiderable Merchants in it, in the moſt extenſive Senſe of the Word, beſides others that deal very largely in Corn, exporting great Quantities of it both to England and Holland. Others again trade in Linen to England, who in Return bring back all needful Supplies of foreign Manufactures.

Here are ſeveral Coal-pits, not only in the Neigh⯑bourhood, but even cloſe to the very Sea, at the Weſt-end of the Town, and where, one would think, the Tide ſhould make it impoſſible to work them. At the Eaſt-end of the Town is a convenient Yard for building and repairing of Ships, and farther on, ſeveral Salt-pans for boiling and making Salt.

Dyſert boaſts, as I ſaid, of being a Royal Burgh; but notwithſtanding it is a very decaying Corpo⯑ration; the only Support of it is, that the Lord [156] Dyſert, the Landlord, has a good Salt-work here, and in the Lands adjoining an excellent Vein of Scotch Coal; both which are eaſily put on Ship-board at a ſmall Wharf adjoining. This, I think, is the whole Trade of the Town, except what ariſes from a few Nail-makers and Hard-ware Workers.

I take the Decay of moſt of theſe Sea-port Towns, which 'tis evident have made a much better Figure in former Times, to be owing to the removing of the Court and Nobility of Scotland to England, which has been doing ever ſince the Junction of the Kingdoms under the ſame Prince in James I. and VI. and more completely by the Union. Their Sea-port Towns had, before, a Trade; when their Court was magnificent; when their Nobility built fine Houſes, and lived in them. They then exported Goods infinitely more in Value, than what they re⯑ceived; and therefore the Balance was evidently on their Side; whereas, now, the Union has open'd a Door to all the Engliſh Manufactures, and ſuppreſſed many of the Scots; has prohibited their Wool going abroad, and yet ſcarcely takes it off at home. If the Cattle are ſent to England, the Money is too generally ſpent there likewiſe. The Troops raiſed here are in Engliſh Service, and Scotland receives no Premium for the Levies, which ſhe might have done, had they been ſent abroad, as the Swiſs and other Nations do at this time.

But the Benefits that will attend its principal Ports on the Repairs of their Harbour, and publick Struc⯑tures, by the many Acts already paſſed, and every Seſſion of Parliament paſſing, by the Two-penies Scots levied for thoſe Purpoſes, will in time, very probably, turn the Scale in favour of the Union, and increaſe the Trade of this Part of the United Kingdom, as by virtue of that Act it ſtands on the ſame foot of Advan⯑tage with England, and has ſo many good Ports, to receive Shipping, and carry on a Commerce with [157] foreign Parts, as well as Coaſtwiſe to England and Ireland. Of this the Towns of Glaſgow, Dundee, Dumfries, Irvin, Dunbar, Pittenweem, Montroſe, Inverneſs, Elgin, Aberbrothock, Bruntiſland, La⯑nark, Linlithgow, &c. will bear Teſtimony, as I have and ſhall obſerve in their proper Places. In⯑deed 'tis pity but Scotland ſhould find its Account in this reſpect, in general; for it muſt be own'd, as I have in part obſerved before, that it has a plentiful Product for Exportation; and were the Iſſue of that Product returned and conſumed at home, it muſt neceſſarily grow rich and flouriſh.

To take only a ſhort View of the Commodities it exports into foreign Countries, England included; for I am now conſidering Scotland as if not united:

• Carried to England; Corn, Black Cattle, Sheep, Wool; Linen of ſeveral Sorts; ſome Woolen Ma⯑nufactures, Stockens in particular.
• To Holland, Bremen, and Hamburgh; Corn, Lead, Salt, Coal, barrell'd Pork, and Salmon.
• Note, The Dutch buy the barrell'd Pork from Aberdeen for Victualling their Eaſt-India Ships, it being much better cured than that from any other Country.
• To Norway, Salt, Oatmeal, Salmon, Lead, Stockens, and Linen.
• To Sweden, Dantzick, and Riga; Salt, Woolen Manufactures of Sterling and Aberdeen.
• To Spain and the Streights; Herrings pickled; barrell'd and dry'd Salmon; Herrings, and White-fiſh.
• To France; Coal, Salt, Lead, Herrings, White-fiſh, and Wool.
• For all theſe Exportations the Returns are, or at leaſt were, before the Union;
• From England; Pewter, Block-tin, Wrought Iron, Glaſs Ware, Sugars, Tobacco, Drugs and Dyers Stuffs.
• [158]All the Engliſh Woolen and Silk Manufactures were prohibited upon the ſevereſt Penalties; ſo that the Returns from England in Goods were very ſmall; the grand Return from thence was in Specie: And 'tis known, that above an Hundred Thouſand Pounds was paid into Scotland every Year for Cattle only.
• From Holland; ſome fine Linens; but not much, becauſe of their own. Lace, and fine Threads, Gimp, Incle, &c. Eaſt-India Goods, Linſeed, and Lint, or Flax, Linſeed-oil, Train-oil, and Whalebone.
• From Norway, Pitch and Tar, Deals and Firr Timber.
• From Sweden, Iron in Bars, and Copper, Deals and Timber.
• From Dantzick, Koningſberg, Riga, Narva, and Peterſburg; Plank, call'd Eaſt Country Clap-board, or Wainſcot, Oak Timber, and in Quarters; Hemp, Pitch, Tar, Turpentine, Sturgeon, and Flax.
• From France; Wine, Brandy, Apples, (Rennets) Reſin, Cork, Paper, Wrought Silks, Raw Silks, Toys, Perfumes, &c.
• From the Royal Canal thro' France; Oil and Italian Pickles from Leghorn.
• From Hamburgh; Staves for Caſks, Clap-board, Rheniſh Wine, and Old Hock.

All theſe Sorts of Goods are returned into Scot⯑land, but the Quantities are very ſmall: The chief Articles, to ſum up all in a little, are,

From England, Sugar and Tobacco; from France, Wine and Brandy; from the Eaſt Country, Naval Stores; from Sweden, Iron and Copper; from Nor⯑way, Deals and Timber; from Holland, Lint and Linſeed.

Now theſe put together, if I am rightly informed, do not balance the Lead, Coal, and Salt, which they export every Year: So that the Balance of Trade muſt ſtand greatly to the Credit of the Scots Account, which would be all returned into Scotland in Specie [159] every Year, if there was not a neighbouring Gulph, into which it is all ſunk. And what a Figure would ſuch an Advantage of running Caſh be able to make?

I have already touched upon the Advantages, that will probably accrue to Scotland by the Method they have fallen upon of augmenting and repairing their Ports and Harbours, by virtue of the Two-penies Tax; and ſome will further add, to balance the Diſ⯑advantages they lie under from the Union, that it is now eſtabliſh'd in a laſting Tranquillity; and an End put to thoſe Wars that uſed to lay waſte the Borders of both Nations; that this will give En⯑couragement to the Improvement of the Land, and conſequently of raiſing the Value of Eſtates; that the Taxes are eaſy and aſcertained; that the Charges of defending the Country both Abroad and at Home lie upon England; and the Weſt-India Trade abun⯑dantly pours in Wealth upon her. And all this is true; but, is it not Pity, for all that, that her own Nobility ſhould not, like true Patriots, lend a helping Hand to the riſing Advantage of their own Country, and ſpend ſome of the large Sums they get in Eng⯑land, in erecting Manufactures, employing the Poor, and propagating the Trade at Home, which they may ſee plainly has made their united Neighbours of England ſo much exceed them?

But to return to our Travels: We came next to a Village called the Weſter-Wemys, belonging to the Earl of Wemys, whoſe Houſe ſtands a little farther Eaſt, on the Top of a high Cliff, with its Front looking down upon the Sea. At the Weſt-end of this Cliff, is a ſmall Plain, once a Bowling-green, where the late Earl, being Admiral, had ſome ſmall Field-pieces planted to anſwer Salutes. Behind the Houſe is a ſmall and irregular Court-yard, with two Wings of Building, being Offices to the Houſe on one Side, and Stables on the other. Gardens there are none, only a large well-planted Orchard, be⯑tween [160] which and the Houſe, the Road goes on to Eaſter-Wemys.

From thence you come to another Village, called Buckhaven, inhabited by Fiſhermen, who are em⯑ploy'd wholly in catching freſh Fiſh every Day in the Firth, and carrying them to Leith and Edinburgh Markets. The Buildings are but a miſerable Row of Cottages; yet there is ſcarce a poor Man in it; but they are in general ſo very clowniſh, that to be of the College of Buckhaven, is become a Proverb.

Here we ſaw the Shore of the Sea covered with Shrimps, like a thin Snow; and as you rode among them, they would riſe like a kind of Duſt, and hop like Graſhoppers, being ſcared by the Footing of the Horſe.

The Fiſhermen of this Town have a great many Boats of all Sizes, which lie upon the Beach un⯑rigged, ready to be fitted out every Year for the Herring Seaſon, in which they have a very great Share.

Beyond this is the Ely, a little Town, but a very ſafe and good Harbour, firmly built of Stone, almoſt like the Cobb at Lime, tho' not projecting into the Sea ſo much as that. It ſtands a little on the Weſt-ſide of the Mouth of the Leven; the Salmon of which River are eſteemed the beſt in this Part of Scotland.

To this Town the Earl of Wemys brings his Coal, which he digs about two Miles off, on the Banks of the River Leven; as alſo what little Salt he can make. The Coal-works are greatly prejudiced by the breaking in of the Water, notwithſtanding the immenſe Charges they have been at to prevent that Inconvenience.

The People, who work in the Coal Mines in this Country, partly from their Poverty and hard Labour, and partly from the black Hue which they get from the Coal, make ſuch a frightful Appearance, [161] that their own Countryman Drumond of Hawthornden, in his famous Macaronick Poem, called Polemo-Mid⯑dinia, thus deſcribes them:

From hence we have ſeveral ſmall Towns on the Coaſt, as Criel or Crail, Anſtruther or Anſter, as 'tis uſually called, alſo the Port of Pittenweem; theſe are all Royal Burghs.

Pittenweem is a Port and Harbour very conve⯑niently ſituated near the Mouth of the Forth, in the Shire of Fife; and great Quantities of Herring, Cod, and other Fiſh, are taken here. But it has had two great Difficulties to encounter with; that is to ſay, the low Situation of the Town, cloſe on the Harbour, by which means the Inhabitants were at a great and conſtant Expence beyond their Abi⯑lity, to maintain a Pier, and other Works, to de⯑fend both the Shipping and its People: The other, that the Entrance was very narrow and ſtrait, and ſeveral Rocks lay in the Way of the Shipping, which was a great Hindrance to its Trade and Commerce. But in the Year 1719. an Act paſſed for laying a Duty of Two-penies Scots upon every Scots Pint of Ale, &c. ſold within the Town and its Liberties, for remedying theſe Inconveniences.

Over-againſt this Shore, and in the Mouth of the Forth, oppoſite to the Iſle of the Baſs, lies the Iſle of May, known to Mariners by a Light-houſe upon it. The only conſtant Inhabitant is ſaid to be the Man maintained there by the Government to take care of the Fire in the Light-houſe. It was famous in former Times for barren Women going to St. Adrian's Shrine there.

Here the French Fleet lay with ſome Aſſurance, with the Pretender on board, in 1708. when the Engliſh Squadron approaching, the Four o'clock Gun gave the Alarm; upon which they immediately [162] weighed, got under Sail, and made the beſt of their Way, the Engliſh purſuing in vain.

The Shore of the Firth or Frith ends here, and the Aeſtuarium or Mouth opening, the Land of Fife falls off to the North, making a Promontory of Land, which the Seamen call Fifeneſs, looking Eaſt on the German Ocean, after which the Coaſt bends away North, and the firſt Town you come to is St. Andrew's, an antient, and once flouriſhing City, the Metropolis of all Scotland, and the Seat of the firſt Univerſity, and before the Revolution an Arch⯑biſhop's See.

It is remarkable for a fine Situation, ſurrounded with extenſive Corn-fields abounding in excellent Wheat and Barley, and the pleaſant Downs, called the Links, lying on the Sea-ſide towards the North. The famous Phyſician Cardan eſteemed it the heal⯑thieſt Town he ever lived in, having Occaſion to experience it ſome Months, when he came over from Italy, at the Requeſt of the Pope, to preſcribe to Archbiſhop John Hamilton, whom he recovered of a Conſumption. And twenty Years before, it had the Approbation of the moſt eminent Phyſicians of the Country, when a Houſe was fitted up here for the Reception of Magdalen, Daughter of Francis King of France, who married James V. King of Scotland, in 1537. but that Lady died ſhortly after her Arrival at Holy-rood-houſe in Edinburgh, and never reached St. Andrews.

The Town of old conſiſted of four large Streets lying from Eaſt to Weſt, almoſt parallel to one an⯑other. The Northermoſt of the four, called Swal⯑low-ſtreet, tho' formerly the principal, is now totally ruined, not ſo much as one Houſe remaining. The other three by their Regularity do not ſeem to have been a fortuitous Concourſe of Houſes, as moſt of the other Towns of this Country do; all of them terminating Eaſtward at the Cathedral, which look [163] upon each other, and ſeem to lament their decaying Condition. For tho' the Town was heretofore about two Miles in Circumference, there remain now hardly 1000 Houſes; and of thoſe near 200 are become ruinous, and not habitable. The Num⯑ber of Inhabitants ſtill amount to above 4000, but many of them have nothing to do; there being neither Trade nor Manufactures in the Place, tho' at the ſame time it has a Harbour, but capable only of ſmall Veſſels. Near the Town is plenty of Free-ſtone, of which all the Houſes are built.

Before the Reformation, this City was crouded both on account of Trade and Religion, Pilgrims coming hither in great Numbers to viſit the Relicks of St. Andrew, ſaid to be brought over by St. Regu⯑lus, about the End of the fourth Century, from Pa⯑tras in Greece, where that Apoſtle ſuffered Martyr⯑dom. Here were three religious Houſes, a Fran⯑ciſcan, Dominican, and Auguſtine Priory, the laſt founded by Robert, Biſhop of St. Andrews, who died 1139. and was eſtabliſhed upon ſome of the Revenues formerly belonging to the antient Culdees of this Place. James Stewart, afterwards Earl of Murray, and Regent of Scotland, was, in his younger Days, Prior of it. This Monaſtery was more like the magnificent Palace of a Prince, than a Convent of Monks profeſſing Poverty, as appears ſtill by its Ruins, and particularly by the Wall that encompaſſed it of fine hewn Stone, with many Battlements and Turrets.

Here is now only one Pariſh Church, that of the Holy Trinity, remaining; but there are two others, which are rather Chapels, one to St. Salvator's Col⯑lege; of which, however, no Uſe is made, it having no Endowment, and the Provoſt of that College being often a Layman, even in a Preſbyterian Senſe. The other is the Chapel belonging to St. Leonard's College, the Provoſt whereof muſt be a Miniſter.

[164]The Church of the Holy Trinity is an antient and ſtately Edifice built with fine Free-ſtone in form of a Croſs, and has at the Weſt-end a handſome Spire in good Repair. In it is a fine Monument of Archbiſhop Sharpe, who was aſſaſſinated upon a Moor, as he was coming Home in his Coach: It was erected by the Archbiſhop's Son, Sir William Sharpe, Bart. who to ſecure it from the Fate he feared it might be liable to, mortified 6000 Merks to the City of St. Andrews to keep it in conſtant Repair; which has had its intended Effect; for the Magiſtrates are very careful of it, and would be very ſevere upon any who ſhould attempt to deface it.

On the North-ſide of the Town was the old Caſtle, of which now nothing is remaining but the Walls, built by Roger, Biſhop of St. Andrews, who died 1202. being the ſecond Son of Robert Beaumont, Earl of Leiceſter, and Chancellor of Scotland. It was re⯑paired by Cardinal Bethune, and Archbp. Hamilton; the former of whom procured George Wiſhart to be burnt here in the Parade, while from his Window he glutted his Eyes with ſo horrid a Spectacle; but was himſelf afterwards aſſaſſinated, 1546. in the ſame Place; to revenge whoſe Death, the Queen Regent permitted it to be attacked by the French, from whom it ſuffered greatly. But at the Reformation it ſuffered more, and its Ruin has been completed ſince the Revolution.

To the Eaſt of the Caſtle are the Ruins of the ſtately Cathedral founded by Biſhop Arnold, who died 1163. and finiſhed by Biſhop Lambertoun, who died 1328. It was in Length from Eaſt to Weſt 370 Feet, and the Croſs from South to North 180; its Breadth 65, and its Heighth 100 Feet; tho' ſome draw another kind of Ichnography, and make it ſeven Feet longer, and two broader, than St. Peter's at Rome; and for the Height, as well as the Beauty of its Pillars, and the Symmetry and Proportion of [165] the Whole, it was one of the beſt Gothick Structures in the World.

It was ſometimes called Kill-ri-mont, from the Church built by Herguſt King of the Picts in the fourth Century; but the Name of St. Andrews has prevailed for many Ages. The Cathedral was near demoliſhed at the Reformation; but was repaired, in ſome meaſure, by the ſucceeding Archbiſhops; but ſince the Revolution it has been intirely in Ruins, as we now ſee it.

Near the Ruins of the Cathedral are ſtill remain⯑ing the Walls of the moſt antient Chapel of St. Rule, with the great ſquare Spire ſtill very intire. It is in Height 105 Feet, and made of ſuch large and durable Stones, that tho' it was built ſo many Ages ago, yet ſo little has it ſuffered by the Injuries of the Weather, that a ſmall Sum would ſave it from falling for many Ages to come: And as this is probably one of the moſt antient Monuments of Chriſtianity in Great Britain, it is Pity it ſhould go to Ruin for want of a ſuitable Reparation. This beſides would be the moſt proper Chapel and Chapter-houſe for the noble Knights of the moſt antient Order of the Thiſtle, ſince under the Patronage of the Apoſtle St. Andrew (whoſe Relicks were preſerved at this Place) that Order of Knighthood had its Riſe and Foundation; and by King James VII's Letters Patents reviving and re⯑ſtoring this noble Order, which were dated at Windſor the 26th of May 1687. it appears the Knights of the Thiſtle, or St. Andrew, formerly held their Chapters in the great Church of St. Andrews; which being demoliſhed, his ſaid Majeſty ordered them for the future, to be kept at the Chapel Royal of Holy-rood-houſe.

This City is famous particularly for its Univerſity, conſiſting of three Colleges, founded by Henry Wardlaw, Biſhop of St. Andrews, in the Year 1412. It obtained very ample Privileges and Immunities [166] from Pope Benedict XIII. which were afterwards confirmed to them by King James I. of Scotland, and by ſeveral other ſucceeding Kings. During Epiſcopacy the Archbiſhops were Chancellors of it. The Rector is choſen yearly, and by the Statutes ought to be one of the Principals of the three Colleges here, called St. Salvator's, St. Leonard's, and the New College.

St. Salvator's College was founded by James Kennedy, Biſhop of St. Andrews, Anno 1448. who erected the Edifice, furniſhed it with coſtly Orna⯑ments, and endowed it with ſufficient Revenues for a Doctor, a Batchelor, and Licentiate of Divi⯑nity, four Profeſſors of Philoſophy, and eight poor Scholars. The Earl of Caſſils ſettled a Maintenance for a Profeſſor of Philoſophy. It has a good Library founded by Dr. Sheen. The Edifice itſelf is a moſt ſtately Pile of fine hewn Stone, has a large vaulted Chapel covered with Free-ſtone, and over it is a very lofty Spire. The common Hall and Schools are vaſtly large; and the Cloiſters and private Lodg⯑ings for Maſters and Scholars have been very magni⯑ficent and convenient; but the Fabrick is of late become very much out of Repair, nor is the College Revenue able to ſupport it.

St. Leonard's College was founded by John Hep⯑burne, Prior of St. Andrews, in the Reign of King James V. with Salaries for a Principal or Warden, four Profeſſors of Philoſophy, and eight poor Scholars. A Profeſſor of Philology was added by Sir John Scot of Scots-tarvet, with a liberal Salary. He alſo augmented the Library very conſiderably; and Sir John Wedderburn, at his Death, left a great Col⯑lection of Books to it. Fordun's MS. of the Scotiſh Hiſtory is in this Library.

The New College was founded by Archbiſhop Bethune, Uncle to the Cardinal of that Name, with Endowments for a Principal and Profeſſor of [167] Divinity, and ſome Students in the ſame Faculty; for no Philoſophy is taught in this College.

Theſe laſt two Colleges, having a better Revenue to ſupport them, than that of St. Salvator, are in much better Repair. In the latter, King Charles I. held a Parliament, in a large ſpacious Room able to ſeat 400 Perſons in regular Order, and it ſtill retains the Name of the Parliament Room.

A Profeſſor of Mathematicks was of late Years added to this Univerſity; as was alſo, not long ſince, a Profeſſor of Medicine, with a handſome Endowment by his Grace James Duke of Chandos; whom the Univerſity, upon the Death of the Duke of Athol, in Gratitude, choſe to be their Chancellor; which Office is during Life; and to that alone, and that of his Vice-Chancellor, belongs the conferring of all Univerſity Degrees.

Mr. James Gregory, Profeſſor of Mathematicks in this Univerſity, famous for his Knowledge in that Science, has erected in the College Gardens, a com⯑modious Obſervatory, and furniſhed it with good Mathematical Inſtruments.

It has produced many learned Men; among others, the famous Lord Napier, who invented the Loga⯑rithms, Sir Robert Murray, Sir Andrew Balfour, and the great Lawyer Sir George Mackenzie.

The Harbour here has ſuffered ſo much by the Encroachments of the Sea, that I fear it will never be ſufficiently repaired. The Pier is founded upon a Rock of Free-ſtone, in Length about 440 Feet; but this Rock extends itſelf into the Sea 500 Feet further, on the Point of which ſtands a Beacon; and the great Rolling of the Sea, breaking over the Rock, between the Pier-end and this Beacon, makes the Harbour very dangerous. In the Year 1728. it was propoſed to be repaired, and the Pier carried as far as the Beacon, and a Brief was granted for that [168] Purpoſe. But the Collections were too ſmall to make any great Advances.

By all we have ſaid, it will appear, that this antient City, and its Univerſity too, are in a very declining State. The Archbiſhop's Seat, and Eccle⯑ſiaſtical Courts kept there, beſide the great Reſort of Pilgrims to the Convents, brought great Buſineſs thither, which being now diſuſed, and one new College erected at Edinburgh, and another at Aber⯑deen, contribute much to the Decay of both. The City enjoys ſtill ſome Privileges by the original Charter, yet extant, whereby it was incorporated by King David, Anno 1153.

From St. Andrews we proceeded on to two very agreeable Seats belonging to the preſent Earl of Le⯑ven; one called Melvil, and the other Balgony. Melvil is a regular and beautiful Building, after the Model of Sir William Bruce's Houſe at Kinroſs, de⯑ſcribed before. Balgony is an antient Seat, formerly belonging to the Family of Leſsly; and if not built, was inlarged and repaired by General Alexander Leſsly, noted for his Services in Germany, under Guſtavus Adolphus, King of Sweden; and at laſt, againſt King Charles I.

The River Leven runs hard by the Walls of the Houſe, and makes the Situation very pleaſant. The Park is large, but not well planted; at leaſt, the Trees do not thrive.

From hence we went North to Cowpar, the Shire Town, and turned to the North-eaſt Part of the Country, to ſee the Ruins of the famous Monaſtery of Balmerinoch, of which Mr. Camden takes Notice; but we ſaw nothing worth our Obſervation, the very Ruins being almoſt eaten up by Time. The Mona⯑ſtery was founded by Queen Ermengred, Wife of King William of Scotland.

Hence we came to the Bank of another Firth, called the Firth of Tay, which opening to a large [169] Breadth at its Entrance, as the Firth of Edinburgh does, draws in afterwards, as that does at the Queen's-ferry, and makes a Ferry over at the Breadth of two Miles to the Town of Dundee; and then the Firth widening again juſt as that of the Forth does alſo, continues its Breadth from four to ſix Miles, till it comes almoſt to Perth, as the other does to Sterling.

This River Tay is, without Exception, the largeſt River in Scotland, tho' not of the longeſt Courſe; for it riſes out of the Mountains, near the Edge of Argyllſhire; and running firſt North into the Diſtrict of Braidalbin, there receiving many other Rivers, ſpreads itſelf into a large Lake, called Lough Tay, extending near 40 Miles in Length, and traverſing the very Heart of Scotland, comes into the Sea near this Place: Now, as I deſign to keep in this Part of my Work to the Eaſt Coaſt of the Country, I muſt for the preſent quit the Tay, keeping a little on the hither Side of it, and go back to that Part of the Country which lies to the South, and Eaſt of Dum⯑barton or Lenoxſhire; ſo drawing an imaginary Line from Sterling-bridge, due North, thro' the Heart of the Country, to Inverneſs, which I take to lie almoſt due North and South.

In this Courſe I moved from the Ferry mentioned above, to Perth, lying upon the ſame Tay, but on the hither Bank. It was formerly called Johnſton, or St. John's Town, from an old Church, dedicated to the Evangeliſt St. John, which is ſtill remaining, and ſo big as to make two Parochial Churches, and can ſerve the whole Town for their publick Worſhip.

Perth is the ſecond Town of Scotland for Dignity. Near it ſtood antiently the Town of Berth, which being overflowed by an Inundation of the Tay, oc⯑caſioned the building of this, where it now ſtands.

The chief Buſineſs of this Town at preſent is the Linen Manufacture; which is ſo conſiderable here, that all the neighbouring Country is employed in it, [170] and it is the Wealth of the whole Place. The Tay is navigable up to the Town for Ships of good Burden; and they ſhip off here vaſt Quantities of Linen, for England.

The Salmon taken here, and all over the Tay, are extremely good, and the Quantity prodigious. They carry them to Edinburgh, and to all the Towns where they have no Salmon, and barrel up great Quantities for Exportation: The Merchants of this Town have alſo a conſiderable Trade to the Baltick and Norway.

This Town was for ſome time the Seat of the late Rebellion; but by a peculiar Felicity the Townſmen got ſo much Money by both Parties, that they have ever ſince been enriched by it, as appears not only from particular Families, but from the publick and private Buildings which they have raiſed ſince that time; particularly a new Tolbooth or Town-hall.

It will ſeem a little ſtrange to us in the South, that any Place ſhould be enriched by a Rebellion; but a few Words will explain it. It muſt be obſerved, that the Pretender and his Troops having their Quarters hereabouts a conſiderable time, occaſioned a great Conſumption of Victuals and Drink, which are ſo plentiful in theſe Parts, that 'tis frequent for Towns to petition the Government to have Regi⯑ments of Soldiers quarter'd upon them; tho' in Eng⯑land nothing gives greater Uneaſineſs.

Again, as the Pretender was here and at Scone, it occaſioned a great Confluence of Perſons of Note, who gathered about him, waiting the Iſſue of his Fortunes, till they found the Storm gathering from the South, and no probable Means to reſiſt it, and then they ſhifted off as they could.

While they reſided here, Lodgings in the Town lett at ſuch a Rate, as was never known before; Proviſions were dear, Trade briſk; and had it laſted two or three Months longer, it would have made all the Towns rich in the Neighbourhood.

[171]When this Cloud was diſperſed, the Victors enter'd; new Officers ſucceeded the routed Party. Still the Head Quarters were here; and afterwards the Dutch Troops continued here moſt Part of the Winter. All this while the Money flowed in, and the Town made their Market on both Sides; they were Gainers even by War and Foreigners!

The Linen Trade, which we have mentioned before, has mightily increaſed ſince the Act of Par⯑liament in England, for ſuppreſſing the Uſe of printed Calicoes; in the room of which Scotch and Iriſh Linens have been bought and printed in England: So that the Worſted and Silk Weavers in London ſeem to have had very little Benefit by the Act.

At Ardock in Perthſhire are the Remains of a Roman Camp; and near Perth is a Roman Way, where ſeveral Medals, ſepulchral Urns, and other Monuments of Antiquity, have been found.

From Perth, I went South to that Part which they call Clackmanan, lying Weſt from Dumfermling, and extending itſelf towards Sterling and Dumblain, none of which Part I had gone over before.

North-eaſtward from Perth to Brechen lies a Vale which they call Strathmore, eſteemed the moſt fruit⯑ful in Corn of all that Part of the Country: Here are a great many Gentlemens Seats, tho' on the North-ſide of the Tay, particularly the noble Palace of Glames, the Hereditary Seat of the Family of Lyon, Earls of Strathmore. The Heir in Reverſion now enjoys the Title and Eſtate, tho' it very nar⯑rowly eſcaped being forfeited; for the elder Brother entertained here the Pretender very magnificently, making up for him and his Retinue fourſcore and eight Beds, and afterwards eſpouſed his Cauſe ſo ſtrenuouſly, that he loſt his Life in his Service, at the Battle of Sheriff-muir. The Eſtate, being en⯑tailed, deſcended to the ſecond Son, or younger Brother, who is now Earl of Strathmore.

[172]It is one of the fineſt old-built Palaces in Scotland, and by far the largeſt. When you ſee it at a Diſtance, it is ſo full of Turrets and lofty Buildings, Spires and Towers, ſome plain, others ſhining with gilded Tops, that it looks not like a Town, but a City; and the Appearances ſeen thro' the long Viſta's of the Park are ſo different, that you would not think it the ſame Houſe any two Ways together.

The great Avenue is a full half Mile, planted on either Side with ſeveral Rows of Trees. When you come to the outer Gate, you are ſurpriſed with the Beauty and Variety of the Statues and Buſts, ſome of Stone, ſome of Braſs, ſome gilded, ſome plain. The Statues in Braſs are four, one of King James VI. one of King Charles I. booted and ſpurred, as if going to take Horſe at the Head of his Army; one of King Charles II. habited like that in the Royal Exchange, London; and one of King James VII. after the Pattern of that which is at Whitehall.

From hence I came away South-weſt, and croſſing the Tay below Perth, but above Dundee, came at laſt to Dumblain, a Town pleaſantly ſituated, on the Banks of the River Allan; but without any ſort of Trade. It contains the Ruins of a Church of ex⯑cellent Workmanſhip; but within our own Memory it was made famous by the Battle fought between the Army of King George I. under the Command of the Duke of Argyll, and the Pretender's Forces under the Earl of Mar, on Sheriff-muir, between this Place and Sterling. We took a full View of the Field of Battle, and could not but reflect with Surprize, that a Rabble of Highlanders appearing in Rebellion, armed in Haſte, and headed by a Perſon of no Ex⯑perience in War, ſhould come ſo near to the over⯑throwing an Army of regular diſciplined Troops, and led on by experienced Officers, and ſo great a General.

[173]From hence I proceeded on in Sight of Sterling-bridge; but leaving it on the Right-hand, turned away Eaſt to Alloway, where the Earl of Mar had a noble Seat, and where the Navigation of the Firth of Forth begins. This is, as I hinted before, within four Miles of Sterling by Land, and ſcarcely within 24 by Water, occaſioned by thoſe uncommon Me⯑anders and Reaches in the River, which gives ſo beautiful a Proſpect from the Caſtle of Sterling.

This fine Seat was formerly called the Caſtle of Alloway, but is now ſo completely modernized, that no Appearance of a Caſtle remains.

The Gardens of Alloway Houſe are by much the fineſt in Scotland, and not out-done by any in Eng⯑land, conſiſting of above 40 Acres of Ground; and the adjoining Wood, which is adapted to the Houſe in Avenues and Viſtas, above three times as much.

Here is a Harbour where Ships of Burden ſafely ride. The Glaſgow Merchants have erected Ware-houſes, to which they bring their Tobacco and Sugars by Land, and then ſhip them for Holland or Ham⯑burgh, or the Baltick, or England, as they find the Market.

The High-ſtreet of Alloway reaches down to this Harbour, and is a very ſpacious, well-built Street, with Rows of Trees finely planted all the Way. Here are ſeveral Teſtimonies of the Goodneſs of their Trade, as particularly a large Deal-yard, or Place for laying up all Sorts of Norway Goods, which ſhews that they have a Commerce thither. They have large Ware-houſes of naval Stores; ſuch as Pitch, Tar, Hemp, Flax, two ſawing Mills for cutting or ſlitting of Deals; and a Rope-walk, for making all Sorts of Ropes and Cables for rigging and fitting Ships; with ſeveral other Things, which con⯑vinces us they are no Strangers to other Trades, as well by Sea as Land.

[174]Eaſt from Alloway, is a ſmall County, called Clackmannanſhire, from the Head Burgh, and is Part of Fife. The Country is plain, the Soil fertile; moſt of it proper for Paſture; and what lies below the Orchil-hills, producing Corn very well. But the Shire is chiefly known for yielding the beſt of Coal, and the greateſt Quantity of it, of any Country of Scotland; ſo that it is carried, not only to Edin⯑burgh, but alſo to England, Holland, and France. But while the Freight from Scotland is ſo dear, and the Tax in England ſo heavy, the Price of theſe Coals muſt always be ſo high at London, as will not fail to reſtrain the Conſumption.

On this Shore of the Firth, farther down, ſtands the neat and agreeable Town of Culroſs, lying in Length by the Water-ſide, like Kirkaldy, being likewiſe a Trading Town, as Trade muſt be under⯑ſtood in Scotland. Here is a pretty Market, a plen⯑tiful Country behind it, and the navigable Firth before it. The Coal, the Linen Manufacture, and Plenty of Corn, will always keep ſomething of Trade alive upon the whole Coaſt.

Here is a very noble Seat belonging to the Bruces, Earls of Kincairn, and is well worth a Traveller's Notice; and indeed theſe Inſtances of Magnificence are ſo frequent in Scotland, that were we to dwell upon each of them, ſuch of our Readers as know nothing of Scotland would be apt to think we were too partial in its Favour. But it is certain, that no Gentry or Nobility in the World exceeded the Scots, while an independent Kingdom, in noble Houſes, and all manner of Magnificence; as their Families for Antiquity of Deſcent hardly have any Equals in any one Country on Earth.

Culroſs is a Royal Burgh in the Shire of Perth, but in the Confines of Fife, famous for a Branch of the Iron Manufacture in making Girdles, i. e. broad round Plates, on which they bake their oaten Cakes. [175] They told me of Mines of Copper, and of Lead, lately diſcovered in Fife, and of Silver alſo: But I could not learn that any of them were actually wrought. It is, however, not improbable, but that there are ſuch Mines; and particularly the two Lo⯑mons, which are remarkable Mountains in this Shire, ſeem to promiſe Metal in their Bowels, if they were thoroughly ſearched. They riſe up like two Sugar-loaves in the Middle of a plain Country, not far from Falkland, and give a View of the Firth of Edinburgh South, and the Firth of Tay North, and are ſeen from Edinburgh very plain.

Having made this little Excurſion to the South from Perth, you may ſuppoſe me now returned Northward again; and we proceeded to Scone, that antient Seat of Royal Ceremony, where almoſt all the Kings of Scotland were crowned, ſince the Con⯑queſt of the Picts.

The celebrated Wooden Chair, with the Stone in it, was brought away from hence, as is well known, by the victorious King Edward I. and placed in Weſtminſter-Abbey, where it now is; but the Scotiſh Royal Blood ſucceeding to the Engliſh Crown, in the Perſon of King James I. of England, and VI. of Scotland, verify'd the following prophetick Diſtich, tho' at the Time, it was accounted no ſmall Loſs and Diſgrace to the Kingdom. The Lines were theſe:

Thus tranſlated by the Scots:

It is ſaid to have been firſt dignified by K. Kenneth, who having fought a bloody Battle here with the Picts, in which he gave them a great Overthrow, ſat down to reſt him upon this Stone, after he had [176] been tired with the Slaughter of the Enemy; upon which his Nobles came round him to congratulate his Succeſs; and in Honour to his Valour, crowned him with a Garland of Victory; from whence he dedicated the Stone to the Coronation of all the future Kings of Scotland, hoping from this Omen, that they ſhould, like him, be victorious over all their Enemies.

But the better Sort of Scots Hiſtorians ſay, their Kings brought it from Ireland into I-Colm-Kill in the Iſles, and from thence to Scone or Scoon, when they had ſubdued the Picts.

The Palace of Scoon, tho' antient, is not ſo much decay'd as thoſe I have already ſpoken of; and the Pretender found it very well in Repair for his Uſe. Here he lived and kept his Court, in all the State and Appearance of a Sovereign; but it was a ſhort-lived Splendor; for in 20 Days he was obliged to quit the Kingdom, by the Advance of the Royal Army. In this Palace is the longeſt Gallery in Scotland, and the Ceiling painted, but the Painting very old.

The Building is large, the Front being above 200 Feet; it has two extraordinary fine ſquare Courts, beſides others, which contain the Offices, Out⯑houſes, &c. The Royal Apartments are ſpacious and large; but the whole Building is intirely after the antient Manner.

From Scoon to Dunkeld is ſo little a Way, that we could not help viſiting it, being the Place where a Skirmiſh was fought between the Forces of King William, after the Revolution, and ſome of the Viſcount of Dundee's Men, who purſued the King's Forces, as they were obliged to retire from Gilli⯑cranky, after Lord Dundee himſelf had been killed there. The Duke of Athol has a noble old Houſe here, in one of the Courts of which that Part of the Action happened.

[177]Here was formerly a beautiful and magnificent Cathedral Church, dedicated to St. Columba, the Seat of a Biſhop, whoſe Chapter or Prebendaries were Culdees, or Black Monks; but they are now diſſolved, and moſt Part of the Church in Ruins.

Dunkeld is the chief Market-town of the High⯑lands, and ſuppoſed to have been formerly the chief Town of Caledonia. It is ſituated on the North⯑ſide of the Tay, at the Foot of the Grampian Hills, and is ſurrounded with pleaſant Woods.

Upon the River Tay alſo lies Errol, the Seat of the Earl of that Name, chief of the antient Family of Hay, who derive their Origin from a famous Pea⯑ſant, who in the Reign of Kenneth III. being at Plough with his two Sons, and perceiving the Scots fleeing before the Danes, he and his two Sons ſtopt their Flight, renew'd the Battle, and gained the Victory; for which they had the Lands of Errol beſtowed upon them; and the Family Arms is three bloody Shields, ſupported by two naked Men with Yokes, in Remembrance of this famous Victory; the Father and two Sons having no other Weapons when they put themſelves at the Head of the flying Scots, but the Yokes they took from their Ploughs. Of this Family are, beſides the Earls of Errol, the Marquis of Tweedale, the Earl of Kinnoul, &c.

But our determined Rout lay up the Eaſtern Shore, and thro' the Shires adjacent on that Side, as parti⯑cularly Angus, Mearns, Marr, Aberdeen, Buchan, and ſo, as I laid it out before, to Inverneſs.

Mr. Camden tells us, That the Firth of Tay was the utmoſt Boundary of the Roman Empire in Britain: That Julius Agricola, the beſt of Generals, under Do⯑mitian, the worſt of Emperors, tho' he pierced far⯑ther, and traverſed by Land into the Heart of the Highlands, yet ſeeing no End of a barbarous Coun⯑try, and no Advantage by the Conqueſt of it, with⯑drew, and here fixed the Roman Eagles; that he [178] frequently haraſſed the Picts by Excurſions and In⯑roads, but always returned to his Poſt here, making the Tay his Frontier.

But our Engliſh Caeſars have outgone the Romans; for Edward I. as is ſaid before, paſſed the Tay, and rifled the Abbey at Scoon; and, if we may believe Hiſtory, penetrated into the remoteſt Parts, which, however, I take to be only the remoteſt Parts of what was then known to the Engliſh; for as to the Highlands, the Mountains of Loquhaber, Roſs, Mur⯑ray, Sutherland, and Caithneſs, we read nothing of them: From theſe Retreats the Scots always returned, Antaeus like, with double Strength after every De⯑feat; till in the next Reign they overthrew his Suc⯑ceſſor Edward II. at Bannockbourn, and drove the Engliſh out of the whole Country; following them over Tweed into England, and ravaging the Coun⯑ties of Northumberland and Cumberland.

Oliver Cromwell, indeed, (according to the Motto of a noble Houſe in Scotland, Rode Through) pene⯑trated to the remoteſt Part of the Iſland; and that he might even literally rule it with a Rod of Iron, built Citadels and Forts in all the Angles and Ex⯑tremes, where he found it needful to place his ſta⯑tionary Legions, juſt as the Romans did; as at Leith, at St. Andrew's, at Inverneſs, Perth, Aire, and ſeve⯑ral other Places. We have ſince ſeen the Forces of King George I. making the ſame Rout, nay, ferrying over into the Weſtern, and North-weſtern Iſlands; here again imitating the Prudence of the old Romans, who employ'd their Soldiery in mend⯑ing Roads, and making Cauſeways over Mountains, that were before thought inacceſſible.

Where Armies have marched, there's Room enough, no doubt, for Travellers. With this Aſſu⯑rance therefore, we chearfully croſſed the Tay.

We left Strathern, with the little Country of Menteith; for our Return, and went down into [179] Angus to Dundee, a pleaſant, large, populous City, which as it ſtands well for Trade, ſo it has as large a Share of it, as moſt Towns in Scotland, and that as well Foreign as Domeſtick.

It is exceeding populous, full of ſtately Houſes, and large handſome Streets; particularly four very good ones, with a large Market-place in the Middle, the largeſt and faireſt in Scotland, except that of Aberdeen.

The Inhabitants have a very large Correſpondence with England, and ſhip off a great deal of Linen thither; and a great Quantity of Corn is ſent from hence to England, as well as to Holland. They have likewiſe a good Share of the Norway Trade; and as they are concerned in the Herring Fiſhery, they conſequently have ſome Eaſt Country Trade, viz. to Dantzick, Koningſberg, Riga, &c. They ſend Ships alſo to Sweden, and import Iron, Copper, Tar, Pitch, Deals, &c. from the ſeveral trading Ports of that Kingdom.

The Country behind them called the Carſe, or the Carſe of Gowry, with the Vale mentioned above of Strathmore, abounds in Corn, which the Port of Dundee ſhips off in large Quantities, when a Crop allows it, to the great Advantage of the Gentlemen as well as Farmers; for as the Gentlemen receive all their Rents in Kind, they would find a great Diffi⯑culty ſometimes to diſpoſe of it, if the Merchants here did not ſhip it off, either for London or Amſterdam.

The Town of Dundee ſtands at a little Diſtance from the Tay; but they are joined by a Cauſeway or Walk, well paved with flat Free-ſtone, ſuch as the Side-ways in Cheapſide and Cornhill; and Rows of Trees are planted on either Side of the Walk, which makes it very agreeable. On one Part of this Walk are very good Warehouſes for Merchandizes, eſpe⯑cially for heavy Goods; and alſo Granaries for Corn [180] of which ſometimes they have a vaſt Quantity laid up here; and theſe, being near the Harbour, are con⯑venient, as well for the houſing of Goods, when landed, as for the eaſy ſhipping off what lies for Exportation.

The Harbour of Dundee was formerly very good and ſafe; but of late Years became ſo ruinous and choaked up with Sand, that it would not contain, as antiently, Ships of Burden, except at the higheſt Tides; and its Piers were ſo out of Repair, that Ships could not lie in it with Safety. At the ſame time the Tolbooth and publick Gaol were ſo much decay'd, that they were obliged to be pulled down; and the Town, being greatly in Debt beſides, could not rebuild the ſame. Wherefore, to anſwer all theſe good Purpoſes, and to pave the Streets, diſ⯑charge their Debts, and provide Salaries for School-maſters to inſtruct their Children, an Act paſſed, Anno 1731. for continuing the Duties impoſed by a former Act, then near expired, of Two-penies Scots, upon every Pint of Ale and Beer ſold within the Town and its Privileges, for 25 Years longer. And the Inhabitants now reap the Benefit of it, and will ſtill more, when the propoſed Works are abſo⯑lutely perfected.

This Town was ſtorm'd and plunder'd of great Riches by Cromwell and the Engliſh Army.

The great Church was formerly collegiate, and a very large Building; but part of it was demoliſhed in the Civil War; the Remainder is divided into three Churches for the preſent Uſe of the Citizens.

They have alſo a Meeting-houſe or two for the Epiſcopal Worſhip; for you are to take it once for all, that North of Tay, there are far more of the Epiſcopal Perſuaſion than are to be found in the South; and the farther North, the more ſo.

The Tower upon the great Church here is a handſome ſquare Building, large and antient, and [181] very high, and is a good Ornament to the City: It reſembles the great Tower upon the Cathedral of Canterbury, but not quite ſo high. There is a fine and well-endowed Hoſpital for decay'd Townſmen of Dundee, where they are well taken care of, and provided for. The Pretender was in this City ſoon after his Landing, and ſtaid here ſome time, before he advanced to Scoon.

It was the Birth-place of Hector Boetius, the Scots Hiſtorian; a Man famous in his Time, and whoſe Work was antiently more in Eſteem, than of late. It gave the Title of Viſcount to Graham of Clavers, who commanded the Forces that ap⯑peared for the late King James at the Revolution, and was killed at the Battle of Gillicranky, which I have mentioned.

Near to Dundee, in the Mouth of the River, lies Brochty-craig, formerly well-fortify'd, and noted now for a noble Salmon-fiſhery in its Neighbourhood.

It is 20 Scots Miles from Dundee to Montroſe, the Way pleaſant, the Country fruitful, and filled with Gentlemens Houſes. Among theſe is the noble Palace of Panmure, forfeited in the late Re⯑bellion by the unfortunate Earl of that Name, who was wounded in the Fight near Dumblain. The Surname of the Family is Maul; and Maulſburgh, a ſmall Town near Montroſe, is called from it.

The Town and Port of Montroſe was our next Stage, ſtanding upon the Eaſtmoſt Shore of Angus, open to the German, or the Caledonian Ocean, and at the Mouth of the little River of Southeſk, which makes the Harbour.

This Town is well ſituated for Trade, and has a good Harbour, and the Inhabitants always carried on an advantageous Trade with Norway. But as it was ſtill capable of great Improvements, were a Dock to be made for the Conveniency of Shipping; and if good freſh Water could be procured for it, of which [182] it ſtood in very great Want; and the two Hills that defend the Town againſt Inundations, having alſo ſuffered by Tempeſts; the Corporation procured an Act, Anno 1719. for laying a Duty of Two-penies Scots upon every Pint of Ale, &c. ſold within the Town and its Privileges, for effecting theſe good Purpoſes.

The Town is adorned with fine Buildings, and has an Hoſpital for the poorer Inhabitants. It gives Title of Duke, as it did formerly of Earl and Mar⯑quis, to the Chief of the antient and noble Family of Graham.

The French Fleet firſt made Land at this Port, when they had the Pretender on board, in the Reign of Queen Anne, having over-ſhot the Mouth of the Firth ſo far, whither they at firſt deſigned; but this Miſtake, which ſome thought a Misfortune, was certainly a Deliverance to them; for as on one hand it gave time to the Engliſh Fleet to come up with them before they could enter the Firth, ſo it left them time and room alſo to make their Eſcape; which, if they had gone up the Firth, they could never have done, but muſt inevitably have been burnt and de⯑ſtroyed, or taken by the Britiſh Fleet under Sir George Byng, which was ſuperior to them in Force.

The Royal Burgh of Aberbrothock on this Coaſt, beſides being famous for the ſtately Ruins of the greateſt Abbey in Scotland, deſerves to be mentioned for its convenient Situation for Trade; which in⯑duced, ſome Years ſince, the Inhabitants to lay the Foundation of a new Harbour, the old one being ſo decayed, that it was hazardous even for ſmall Veſ⯑ſels to ſail into it. But the Work exceeding their Abilities, they procured Contributions towards ſo good a Deſign; but ſtill all proving ſhort of what was requiſite to complete the Work, and the Town having run itſelf into Debt by what it had done, and at the ſame time the publick Streets and [183] Cauſeways, as well as the Town-houſe and Gaol, being in a very ruinous Condition, they procured an Act to paſs in the 11th of King George II. for laying a Duty of Two-penies Scots upon every Scots Pint of Ale or Beer ſold within the Town and Liberties, which was to commence in May 1738. and to con⯑tinue for 25 Years, for bringing to Effect theſe good Purpoſes. And we may ſay, that of late ſo many of theſe Acts have paſſed, that Scotland will in a few Years, if haraſſed by no inteſtine Broils, and continuing in Peace, make a better Figure than it has done for Centuries paſt.

The Abbey was formerly endowed with great Re⯑venues by King William I. who was buried here under a ſtately Monument.

In the inner Parts of the Shire, to the Weſtward, is Forfar the County Town, and Brechin formerly a Biſhop's See, made ſo by K. David, and where ſome Part of a ſmall Cathedral is ſtill ſtanding. It is ſeated upon the River Southeſk, over which it has a ſtately Bridge of two Arches, and is conſiderable for its Salmon and Cattle-markets. It is alſo memorable for a great Victory obtained here over the Danes, by the Chief of the Family of Keith, Earl Mareſchal, who having killed their General, was advanced to great Honours by Malcolm II. There was a high Stone erected over the Grave of the Daniſh General, which is ſtill called Camus's Croſs, from his Name; and at 10 Miles Diſtance is another Croſs, over the Grave of another eminent Daniſh Warrior; and both of them have antique Letters and Pictures upon them.

From Montroſe the Shore lies due North to Aber⯑deen: In the Way is the Caſtle of Dunnoter, once a ſtrong Fortification upon an high Precipice of a Rock. The Caſtle was ſurrounded with invincible Walls, (ſaid the honeſt Scot, who ſhewed us the Road to it) having Towers at proper Diſtances, [184] after the old Way of fortifying Towns. The Earl Mareſchal, of the Name of Keith, was Lord of this Caſtle, as alſo of a good Houſe near it, and a great Eſtate: But what he had, is now gone; for, being in the Rebellion, his Eſtate was forfeited, and his Lordſhip, making his Eſcape, went into the Service of Spain, in which he ſtill continues. But we ought to obſerve, that his Brother, going into the Service of Ruſſia, made ſuch a Figure there, that he is a Lieutenant-General in that Empire, and greatly eſteemed for his perſonal Bravery and Conduct. This Gentleman making, lately, a Viſit to England, was received with great Marks of Diſtinction and Favour, by the Court and Nobility; and may be truly ſaid to be one of the beſt Generals that the late Czarina, who yet had many excellent Commanders, had Rea⯑ſon to boaſt of.

Dunnoter Caſtle is now demoliſhed. It is ſituated in the Shire of Kincardin called the Merns. The County is noted for its Timber, having in it up⯑wards of Five Millions of Fir-trees, beſides vaſt Numbers of other Kinds, planted within theſe 70 Years by the Gentry, at and about their Seats, and which they are yearly adding to, and improving. Kincardin was formerly the County-town; but that Advantage now, by Statute, belongs to Stonehyne.

Innerbervy, on the Coaſt, was made a Royal Burgh by King Alexander III.

Paldykirk, ſo called from Palladius, firſt Biſhop of the Scots, is noted for its annual three Days Fair: The principal Commodity brought to it is coarſe Cloth, which is commonly tranſported to the Netherlands.

On the Lands of Arbuthie and Redeloak, are ſome Trenches to be ſeen, caſt up by the Danes at one of their Invaſions: And round the Hill of Urie is a deep Ditch, where the Scots encamped.

Fordun lies alſo in this County, famous in antient Times for the Reliques of the aforeſaid St. Palladius. [185] It is alſo noted for being the Surname of John For⯑dun, the Scots Hiſtorian, Author of the Book called The Scots Chronicon, to which all ſucceeding Hiſto⯑rians of this Nation have been much obliged.

The Earl Mareſchal was hereditary Sheriff of this Country.

We proceeded then to Aberdeen, a Place ſo emi⯑nent, that it commands ſome Stay upon it. It ſtands at the Mouth of two Rivers, and is divided into two Towns or Cities, one called the New, the other the Old Aberdeen, about a Mile diſtant from each other; one ſituate on the River Don, the other on the River Dee, from whence they are more properly called Aberdon and Aberdeen.

Aberdon, or the Old Town, lies a Mile Northward from Aberdeen, or the New Town, and is ſometimes called Bon-accord, from its Motto. It is ſituated in the Mouth of the River Don, which is remarkable for the Multitude of Salmon and Perch taken in it.

The Old Town muſt, without doubt, be very antient; for they tell us the New Aberdeen is ſuppoſed to be upwards of 1200 Years old, tho' none of their Regiſters mention the particular Time of its being built, or by whom. The Cities are not equally ſituated for Trade, one of the Rivers being broader than the other; and it is the common Opinion, that Part of the old City, called the Monaſtery, was waſhed down by the Sea, ſo that it obliged the Citizens to build farther off: That accordingly they built the New Aberdeen upon the Bank of the other River, upon a Piece of hilly Ground: But this is all Con⯑jecture, and has Probability only for its Support.

Old Aberdeen was formerly the Biſhop's Seat, and has a Cathedral, commonly called St. Machar's, a large and ſtately Structure, which was antiently much more magnificent: it ſuffered greatly at the Time of the Reformation, and more ſince the Re⯑volution.

[186]The chief Ornament of this Town is the King's College on the South Side of it, a neat and ſtately Structure.

The Church and Steeple are built of hewn Stone, and the Summit of the latter reſembles an Imperial Crown. The Windows of the Church were for⯑merly eſteemed for their Paintings; and ſomething of their Splendor ſtill remains. In the Steeple are two Bells of extraordinary Bigneſs, beſides others.

Cloſe to the Church is a Library well furniſhed with Books.

This College was founded by Biſhop Elphinſton, in the Year 1500. and the greateſt Part built by him; but King James IV. taking the Patronage upon him, it was called The King's College. The Bull for it was procured from Pope Alexander VI. in 1510. endowing it with as ample Privileges as thoſe of Paris and Bononia.

There are in this College a Principal, a Sub-prin⯑cipal, who is alſo one of the Regents, three other Regents, or Profeſſors of Philoſophy, a Profeſſor of Humanity or Philology, a Profeſſor of Divinity, a Doctor of Phyſick, a Profeſſor of the Oriental Tongues, a Profeſſor of the Civil Law, and a Pro⯑feſſor of the Mathematicks. Dr. Frazer has lately been a great Benefactor to it.

New Aberdeen is about a Mile diſtant, as we have ſaid, from the Old, ſituated at the Mouth of the River Dee. It is the County Town, and by Con⯑ſequence the Seat of the Sheriffs Courts. It exceeds all the Cities in the North of Scotland for Large⯑neſs, Extent and Beauty. It ſtands in a wholſome Air, has a great Revenue from its Salmon-fiſhery, and the Inhabitants are generally very courteous. It ſtands upon three Hills; the main Part upon the higheſt, and the Skirts of it extend into the Plain. The Houſes are neatly built, are generally four Stories high, or more, and have for the moſt part [187] Gardens and Orchards belonging to them, which makes the City pleaſant and healthful, and the Pro⯑ſpect of it beautiful at a Diſtance.

From a round Hill, at the Weſt End of the City, flow two Springs, one of clear Water, and another with Water, which, in Taſte and Quality, comes very near the Spaw in Germany: Dr. William Barclay wrote a Treatiſe concerning it.

In the High-ſtreet is a Church built of Free-ſtone, and good Architecture.

In this City ſtands the Marſhal College, founded by George Earl Marſhal, in the Year 1593. to which the City has added many Buildings at their own Charge.

In this College, which is a diſtinct Univerſity of itſelf, are a Principal, four Profeſſors of Philoſophy, a Profeſſor of Divinity, and a Profeſſor of Mathe⯑maticks, and there is lately added a Profeſſor of Phyſick. It has a very good Library, which was founded by the City, inlarged by the Gifts of ſeveral learned Men, and furniſhed with Mathematical Inſtruments.

In this City is alſo a Grammar School, founded by Dr. Dune, having one Maſter and three Uſhers. There is alſo a Muſick School.

The Church called St. Nicolas's, is a handſome Edifice of Free-ſtone, with a lofty Steeple, re⯑ſembling a Pyramid; it was formerly divided into three Churches. The Body of this Church is adorned with a Tower, and a Steeple with Pinacles.

Here is alſo a Priſon and a Work-houſe belonging to the Town, likewiſe an Alms-houſe, and three Hoſpitals; and near the Harbour ſtands the Cuſtom-houſe. The Market-place is very beautiful and ſpacious, and the Streets adjoining are very handſome, and moſt of the Houſes are built of Stone, four Stories high, with handſome Saſh-windows, and are very well furniſhed within; the Citizens here [188] being as gay, as genteel, and perhaps as rich, as in any City in Scotland.

The Bridge at Old Aberdeen, over the Don, con⯑ſiſts of one immenſe Arch of Stone, ſprung from two Rocks, one on each Side, which ſerve as a Buttment to the Arch, ſo that it may be ſaid to have a Foundation coeval with Nature, and which will laſt as long. The other Bridge is upon the River Dee, Weſt above New Aberdeen, and has ſeven very ſtately Arches.

The People of Aberdeen, and indeed of almoſt all this Country, are generally of the Epiſcopal Per⯑ſuaſion; ſo that, were it not for the legal Eſtabliſh⯑ment, the Preſbyterian Preachers would have but few Hearers, and ſlender Incomes: Almoſt every Pariſh has a Meeting-houſe, where the Liturgy is read: At Aberdeen and Peterhead they have beautiful Chapels, and even Organs.

Near the City is a ſtately Stone Bridge of ſeven Arches over the Dee, built by Biſhop Gawin Dumbar.

The Air of this County, to thoſe who were born in a hotter, ſeems cold, but is in itſelf healthful and temperate. The Winter is milder than can be ex⯑pected from ſuch a Climate, which ſeems a Wonder to Danes, Poles, and Pruſſians, when they come into this Country, and conſider that with them, during the Winter, there is nothing but perpetual Froſt and Snow. The Soil in general is not un⯑fruitful, if duly cultivated; it produces Wheat, Rye, Barley, Oats in abundance, Peaſe and Beans; nor do they want Roots and Herbs for Food and Phyſick; and foreign Plants grow very well there, as daily Experience teſtifies. The mountainous Part of the County affords very good Paſturage, and the other as good Corn.

The adjoining Sea not only furniſhes them with plenty of Fiſh, but reproaches them with their Negligence, when they ſee the Dutch Fleets conti⯑nually [189] fiſhing on the Coaſts, from whence they reap great Gain; but 'tis the Humour of the Inhabitants to apply themſelves to the Salmon-fiſhing, and to neglect that of all other Sorts.

The Quantity of Salmon and Perches, taken in both Rivers, is a kind of Prodigy. The Proprietors are united into a Company, there being ſo many Shares, of which no Perſon can enjoy above one at a time. The Profits are very conſiderable, the Salmon being ſent abroad into different Parts of the World, particularly into England, France, the Baltick, and ſeveral other Places.

The Herring-fiſhing is a common Bleſſing to all this Shore of Scotland, and is like the Indies at their Door, were it properly uſed, by the Scots in gene⯑ral: But I muſt obſerve, that by this, however, the Merchants of Aberdeen are able to carry on a Trade to Dantzick and Koningſberg, Riga and Narva, Wy⯑bourgh and Stockholm.

They have alſo a very good Manufacture of Linen, and likewiſe of Worſted Stockens, which they ſend to England in great Quantities, and of which they make ſome ſo fine, that I have ſeen them ſold for 14, 20, and 30 Shillings a Pair. They alſo ſend them over to Holland, and into the North and Eaſt Seas, in large Quantities.

They have alſo a particular Export here of Pork, pickled and packed up in Barrels, which they ſell chiefly to the Dutch for the victualling their Eaſt-In⯑dia Ships and their Men of War, the Aberdeen Pork having the Reputation of being the beſt cured, for keeping on very long Voyages, of any in Europe.

They export alſo Corn and Meal; but they ge⯑nerally bring it from the Firth of Murray, or Cro⯑marty, the Corn coming from about Inverneſs, where they have great Quantities.

In a word, the People of Aberdeen are univerſal Merchants, ſo far as the Trade of the Northern Part [190] of the World will extend; and it may be eſteemed the third City in Scotland, that is, the next after Edinburgh and Glaſgow.

This Shire contains in it Mar, with its Appurte⯑nances, Birſe, Glentaner, Glenmuick, Strathdee, Strathdon, Braes of Mar and Cromar, moſt part of Buchan, Formartin, Garioch, and Strathbogy.

The latter is a large and antient Barony, watered by the Rivers Dovern and Bogy; it was erected into an Earldom by King James VI. in favour of the Chief of the noble and antient Family of Gordon, whom he afterwards created Marquis of Huntley. Strathbogy is very fruitful in Corn and Paſturage, and is remarkable for the fine Linen-yarn ſpun by the Women there, and ſold to the Merchant.

It is moſtly inhabited by Gordons, Vaſſals to the Duke of Gordon, who has a magnificent Caſtle here, called Strathbogy, from the Name of the County. There are of this Name, beſides the Duke, the Earls of Sutherland, Aboyn, Aberdeen, and late Viſcount of Kenmure; likewiſe a great many Gen⯑tlemen of Note in other Parts of the Kingdom.

The County of Mar gave Title of Earl to the Chief of the Family of Erſkine. The Sheriffdom is the King's Gift.

In Aberdeenſhire are Quarries of ſpotted Marble and Slate, and Pearls are found in their Rivers of a large Size, and fine Colour.

There was formerly a Mint at Aberdeen, as ap⯑pears by ſeveral Pieces of Coin with the Aberdeae upon them, kept in the Cloſets of the Curious.

Other Towns in this County are;

• 1. Kintore, a Royal Burgh on the Don, which gives the Title of Earl to a Branch of the Family of Keith.
• 2. Inverary, made a Royal Burgh by King Robert Bruce.
• [191]3. Peterhead, with a good Harbour.

We ought not to omit, that on the 30th of October 1721. an accidental Fire broke out in Aber⯑deen, whereby the Commiſſary-Clerk's Office was ſuddenly conſumed, and at the ſame time the Re⯑giſters and Records of all Teſtaments and Confirma⯑tions, all Acts of Curacy, Judicial Deeds, and other Writs and Evidences, &c. were intirely burnt and deſtroyed; which unhappy Accident being likely to be attended with pernicious Effects to Perſons Rights and Properties, an Act paſſed 8 George I. for ſupply⯑ing the Records ſo burnt or loſt; and another in the 9th of the ſame Reign, for making the former more effectual.

The Town of Aberdeen had ſuffered much by the publick Commotions in Scotland, after the Revolu⯑tion took place, ſo that an Act for laying the Duty of Two-penies Scots on every Scots Pint of Ale and Beer ſold within the Town, &c. had been impoſed by the Scotiſh Parliament in 1695. and continued by the ſame in 1707. for enabling them to diſcharge the Debts incurred on that Occaſion. And the laſt Act being near expired, and Debts ſtill remaining unpaid, an Act paſſed 1731. for continuing the ſaid Duties, for the following good Purpoſes; viz. for paying off the remaining Debts of the Town; for building a new Pier on the North-ſide of the Harbour, for repairing the old Pier on the South-ſide, which was very much ſunk and decay'd; for repair⯑ing the great Church, called the Old Church, which was in a very decayed Condition; for rebuilding the Town-houſe, which was alſo in a very bad State; and for maintaining and carrying on other publick Works for the Benefit of the Town. This Act is to remain in Force for 25 Years; and it may be eaſily judged, that the Town of Aberdeen will be much improved, when the propoſed Works are all abſolutely completed.

[192]From Aberdeen the Coaſt goes on to a Point of Land, which is the fartheſt North-eaſt Part of Bri⯑tain, and is called by the Sailors Buchanneſs, being in the Shire or County of Buchan, Part of which belongs to Aberdeenſhire. It was to this Point the French Squadron, with the Pretender on board, in the Reign of Queen Anne, kept their Flight in Sight of the Shore, being thus far purſued by Sir George Byng with the Engliſh Fleet; but from hence they ſteer'd away North-eaſt as if for the Norway Coaſt, when the Engliſh Admiral, ſeeing no Probability of coming up with them, gave over the Chace; but they altered their Courſe in the Night, ſtood away South, and came back to Dunkirk, whence they ſet out.

On the South-ſide of the Water of Eugic ſtands Peterhead, with a Road which will hold 100 Sail of Ships; and at this Place it is High-water, when the Moon is directly South. In many Places of this Shire are great Stones placed circularly, one of the largeſt in the Middle towards the South, which have the Air of Places of Worſhip in the Ages of Hea⯑theniſm. The dropping Cave of Slanes is very re⯑markable, of the petrify'd Subſtance whereof is made excellent Lime.

This Country, however remote, is full of No⯑bility and Gentry, and their Seats are ſeen even unto the extremeſt Shores: The Family of Frazer carries its Name to Frazerburgh, in the very Northermoſt Point of the Country. Ereſkines, Earls of Marr, had their Family-ſeat at Kildrummy, in the County of Marr, a little South of this Part of the County, where the late unhappy Earl firſt ſet up his Standard for the Pretender. The Hayes, Earls of Errol, are in Buchan; and the Family of Forbes Lord Forbes, and Forbes Lord Pitſligo, are ſtill farther, and the latter on the very Shore of the Caledonian Ocean. The Gordons and Keiths are very numerous alſo in theſe Parts.

[193]Mr. Camden relates, that on the Coaſt of this Country a great Piece of Amber was driven on Shore by the Force of the Sea, as big (to uſe his own Words) As an Horſe. I ſhall add nothing to the Story, becauſe it is hard to give Credit to it: it is enough that I name my Author; for I could not learn from the Inhabitants, that they ever ſaw any more of it.

I ought not to omit Innerury, belonging to Garioch in Aberdeenſhire, being the Scotſman's Boaſt; for here Robert Bruce, tho' ſick, and carried in a Horſe-litter, defeated John Cummins, and thoſe who ad⯑hered to him, in Favour of Edward I. of England; who held Scotland in Subjection. This was the firſt Victory King Robert obtained, and laid the Foun⯑dation of the Overthrow of the Engliſh Uſurpation in Scotland. Near the ſame Place alſo in 1411. Alexander Steuart, Earl of Mar, defeated Donald of the Iſles, in the bloody Battle of the Harlow.

From hence, the Eaſt Shore of Scotland being at an End, the Land tends away due Weſt; and the Shire of Bamff beginning, you ſee the Towns of Bamff, Elgin, Frazerſburg, and the famous Mona⯑ſtery of Kinloſs, where the murdered Body of King Duff was after many Years dug up, and diſcovered to be his by various Tokens.

The Shire of Bamff deſerves ſome Notice for the following Particulars; for that in it is ſituated Strathyla, which drives a great Trade in Lime, and fat Cattle; and it abounds ſo with Lime-ſtone, that they build their Houſes with it. They carry on a Trade in fine Linen alſo, by means of their weekly Markets at Keith, a neighbouring Village. Upon the Banks of the Spey, which runs thro' this County, lies the Bog of Gicht, now called Gordon Caſtle, the nobleſt Palace in the North, being the Duke of Gordon's chief Seat, adorned with pleaſant Gardens, and a great Park. The Caſtle appears ſo large, that [194] it looks more like a Town than a Nobleman's Seat. The Duke is Proprietor of this Part of the County. Strathave is the paternal Inheritance of his Fa⯑mily: And his Grace has a fine Eſtate, and other Seats hereabouts. The late Duke had a little embroiled himſelf with the Affairs of 1715, and his Son, then Marquis of Huntley, ſtill more; but got off without a Forfeiture, by his Prudence and good Fortune.

The Town of Cullen, an antient Royal Burgh, ſtands in the Shire of Bamff. It is chiefly noted for its fruitful Soil, and Salmon-fiſhing; for having no Port, it has little Trade, except for its Corn and Salmon.

The Shire itſelf takes Name from Bamff, a Burgh Royal, ſeated at the Mouth of Doverne in the Boyne, where the Sheriff holds his Courts. In it are the Ruins of an old Caſtle, near which is the Abbey of Deer, formerly belonging to the Ciſtercian Monks, and founded by William Cumin, Earl of Buchan. In Belvenie is found the Stone of which Alum is made, and in the County of Boyne great Quarries of ſpotted Marble have been diſcovered.

Buchan is Part in Aberdeenſhire, Part in the Shire of Bamff, one of its principal Towns is Frazerſburgh, and Peterhead is another. The latter is a good Market-town, with a Port, and ſmall Harbour with two little Piers for Fiſhing; but being ſo near Aberdeen, has not thoſe Helps and Advantages, that might be otherwiſe probably given to it; ſo that at low Water it is all dry, and the ſmalleſt Ships lie aground in it.

The Earl of Saltoun has very lately built, (1738) at Frazerſburgh, a moſt excellent new Pier and Bulwark, all of Free-ſtone; which renders that Harbour as ſafe and commodious as any on the Eaſt Coaſt; ſo that 30 Ships may winter there at once, with great Safety: The Water at full Sea is 18 or 20 Feet.

[195]From the Point of Land, called Buchanneſs the Ships begin their Accounts for their ſeveral Voyages; what they call their Departure: As in England, they do from Wintertonneſs, on the North-eaſt Part of Norfolk, and from the Downs for the Voy⯑ages to the Southward.

From Fifeneſs, which is the Northermoſt Point, on the Mouth of Edinburgh Firth, being the Souther⯑moſt Land of Fife to this Point of Buchanneſs, the Land lies almoſt due North and South, and the Shore is the Eaſtermoſt Land of Scotland. The Diſtance between them is 33 Leagues, 1 Mile, which is juſt 100 Miles; tho' the Mariners ſay, that meaſuring by the Sea, it is but 28; and from Wintertonneſs, near Yarmouth, to this Point call'd Buchanneſs, is juſt 300 Miles.

The River or Firth of Tay opens into the Sea, about four Leagues North from Fifeneſs; and as there is a Light-houſe on the Iſle of May, as I have ſaid before, in the Mouth of the Firth of Forth at Edinburgh, a little South of this Point, call'd Fife⯑neſs; there are likewiſe two Light-houſes at the Entrance of the Firth of Tay, for the Directions of the Sailors, when they are bound into that River, and particularly for their avoiding the two Sands, which lie off from the South-ſide of the Entrance.

Buchanneſs is generally alſo the firſt Land of Great Britain, which the Ships make in their Voyages Home from Archangel in Ruſſia, or from their Whale-fiſhing Voyages to Greenland and Spits-bergen in the North Seas: And near this Point, at Pitſligo, a great Ship was caſt away in Queen Elizabeth's Time, bound Home from Archangel, having on board the firſt Embaſſador ſent by the Great Duke of Muſcovy to any of the Chriſtian Princes of Europe, he being commiſſioned to treat with Queen Elizabeth for a League of Peace and Commerce. He likewiſe loſt a moſt valuable Preſent, deſigned for the Queen, of [196] rich and coſtly Furrs, in thoſe Days, reputed in⯑eſtimable. The Embaſſador was happily ſaved, and brought on Shore by the People of Pitſligo; but the Ship and all the Goods were loſt.

From this Point of Eaſterly Land all that great Bay, or Inlet of the Sea, reaching quite to the North of Scotland, is called Murray Firth, and the Northermoſt Point is Dungsby-head, which is the North-eaſt Point of Caithneſs, and opens to Pentland Firth. By Pentland Firth you are to underſtand the Paſſage of the Sea beyond Caithneſs, between Scot⯑land and the Iſles of Orkney. What is call'd Murray Firth, is not, like many others, the Mouth of a River, as that of Edinburgh or Tay, but is an open Bay in the Sea, as the Bay of Biſcay, or the Gulph of Mexico are; and reaches, as I have ſaid, from Peters-head, to Dungsby-head, oppoſite to the Orkneys, the Diſtance of 79 Miles; but it is almoſt twice as far by Land, becauſe of the Depth of that Bay, which obliges us to travel from Pitſligo Weſt, near 70 Miles, till we come to Inverneſs.

This County of Buchan is more to be taken Notice of from what is to be ſeen on the Sea Shore than in the Land; for the Country is moun⯑tainous, and in ſome Places not very fertile; but as we coaſted along Weſt, we came into a much better Country, particularly the Shires of Bamff, which I have already mention'd, Elgin, and the County of Murray, from whence the Bay I juſt now deſcribed, is called Murray Firth.

Murray is a pleaſant Country, the Soil fruitful, water'd with fine Rivers, and full of good Towns, and Gentlemens Seats more than could be expected in ſo remote a Part of the Kingdom.

This Country is a Plain for between 20 and 30 Miles together, and the Soil is by that means render'd more fruitful and rich, and the Tempera⯑ture of the Air more ſoften'd, than in other Parts of [197] Scotland; inſomuch that the Harveſt here, and in the Vale of Strathbogy, and all the Country to Inver⯑neſs, is obſerved to be more early than in Northum⯑berland, nay, than in Derbyſhire, and even ſome Parts of the more Southerly Counties in England; as particularly in the Eaſt of Kent and Suſſex. As a Confirmation of this, I affirm that I have ſeen the new Wheat of this Country and Inverneſs brought to Market to Edinburgh, before the Wheat at Edin⯑burgh has been fit to reap; and yet the Harveſt about Edinburgh is thought to be as forward as in moſt Parts, even of England itſelf. In a Word, it is uſual in Murray and the Country about it, to begin with their Harveſt in the Month of July, and it is not very unuſual to have new Corn fully ripe and threſh'd out, ſhipped off, and brought to Edinburgh to Sale, within the Month of Auguſt.

The River Loſſie in this County is famous for Sal⯑mon; there being annually pickled and exported from 80 to 100 Laſts, all taken in a few Months of the Sum⯑mer, and in a Space of one Mile, at a Village called Germach. It abounds with Fiſh to the very Head; but ſtill the greateſt Quantity is uſed for home Con⯑ſumption, and taken either with hooked Tridents by Day, or Wicker Baſkets, or little Boats covered with Hides, by Night. None but the Natives, who are uſed to them, will venture into thoſe Boats. The common Drink in theſe Parts is Ale, and ſometimes Beer, and they have good French Wine very cheap, as I and my Company experienced; but the Inha⯑bitants prefer Aqua Vitae of their own extracting from Ale-dregs and Spices, to much richer Wines than the French; of this they drink plentifully themſelves, and are very liberal of it to their Friends. And a Bottle of this Liquor, and ſome Cheeſe, will make a Murray Man undertake the greateſt Winter-Journeys, without wiſhing for any other Proviſion.

[198]This County is divided into two Shires; the greater, called the Shire of Elgin; the other, the Shire of Nairn. The Town of Nairn lies on the Mouth of the River of that Name; along which lie the Seats of many Perſons of Quality.

Near the Caſtle of Caddel or Calder, on that River, is a Vein of Free-ſtone, and many Signs of Copper.

Tarnaway Caſtle, on the River Findorn, in this County, is an old Caſtle and Seat belonging to the Earls of Murray.

A little lower on the other Side, ſtands the Burgh of Forreſs, in an exceeding pleaſant Situation. The Kings of Scotland formerly reſided here, in a Caſtle that is now gone to Ruin; and lower, formerly, ſtood the noble Abbey of Kinloſs.

On the Road to Forreſs is a large Pillar of one Stone, being a Monument of a Victory obtained by King Malcolm Mac Kenneth over Sueno King of Denmark; the Inſcription is now worn out. Be⯑twixt this Place and Elgin, are numberleſs Seats of the Quality.

In this rich County, on the River Loſſie, which riſes a few Miles above it, and empties itſelf into the Sea a few Miles below it, lies Elgin, formerly a Biſhop's See. It is ſituated in a very fruitful Soil, tho' ſomewhat ſandy. The Ruins of the Caſtle are ſtill to be ſeen on the Eaſt End of the Town; tho' demoliſh'd ſo long ago, as the Wars of the Danes. There was a noble Cathedral here, which for Large⯑neſs, Splendor, Magnificence and Workmanſhip, had hardly its Equal in the Kingdom. The uſual Place of Reſidence of the Biſhop was at the Caſtle of Spynie, within a Mile of the Town, a very noble Seat, with fine Gardens and Woods.

But tho' the Town of Elgin has Reaſon to be proud of its Situation, it was not very rich in its Town Revenues; for it had long laboured under [199] heavy and burdenſome Debts; which being increaſed by the Rebellion in 1715. put a Stop to divers of its new publick Works, and made ſeveral others run into Decay. At the ſame time the River Loſſie having very inſufficient Banks, the Chanel of it became choaked with Sand, which made it ſubject to overflow; and moreover, the Harbour of Loſſie itſelf, which may be called the Port of Elgin, lying not far from it, became ruinous and decayed, to the great Prejudice of Perſons trading in the Murray Firth, as well as to the Town. For all theſe Reaſons, and in order to inlarge and im⯑prove, as well as repair, the ſaid Harbour of Loſſie, an Act paſſed in the Year 1721, laying a Duty of Two-penies Scots on every Scots Pint of Ale or Beer, that ſhould be vended within the ſaid Town and its Liber⯑ties; ſo that it bids fair to make as flouriſhing a Figure as it has done for Centuries paſt.

Above Elgin, Forreſs and Nairn, lies that Part of the Country called, The Bra [...] of Murray, no way comparable to the lower Part for Fruitfulneſs; and beyond this are Mountains, Woods, and green Valleys; particularly Strathherin, well inha⯑bited, and abounding with little Towns and Vil⯑lages, and Strathnairn, a ſtill better Soil, and poſſeſſed by ſeveral Gentlemen. Strathherin alſo abounds with Lakes, Mountains and Streams.

In this County lies Lochmoy, with an Iſland, where the Laird of Mackintoſh (a Name well known in Eng⯑land, as well as Scotland, by means of the famous Bri⯑gadier of that Name, who was taken Priſoner at the Battle of Preſton, eſcaped out of Newgate, and lately died in Peace in Scotland) has his Seat. This Tribe is called Clan Chattau; and are numerous in this County.

But to ſay a few Words more of Elgin, before we leave this County: Gentlemen of all Parties and Opinions, as if this Town was the Court for this Part of the Iſland, leave their Highland Habitations in the Winter, and come to live at Elgin, with very [200] engaging Freedom; ſo that it is a Place of greater Reſort than could be imagined, at the Diſtance of 450 meaſured Miles from London, and more, if we muſt go by Edinburgh.

This rich Country continues with very little In⯑termiſſion, till we come to Strathnairn, or the Valley of Nairn, where it extends a little farther in Breadth towards the Mountains, and is not inferior to the other in Fruitfulneſs: From the weſtern Part of this County you may obſerve that the Land goes away again to the North; and, as if you were to enter into another Iſland beyond Britain, you find a large Lake or Inlet from the Sea of Murray, going on Weſt, as if it were to cut through the Iſland; for we could ſee no End of it, nor could ſome of the Country-people tell us how far it reached, but that it went beyond Lochaber: So that we thought, till our Maps and further Inquiſition informed us, it had joined the Weſtern Ocean.

After we had travelled about twelve Miles, and deſcended from a riſing Ground, upon which we then were; we perceived the Lake contracted in one par⯑ticular Place to the ordinary Size of a River, as if deſigned by Nature to give Paſſage to the Inhabitants to converſe with the Northern Part; and then it opened again to its former Breadth, and continued in the Form of a large Lake, as before, for many more Miles than we could ſee; being in the Whole, according to Mr. Camden, 23 Miles long; but if it be taken on both Sides the Paſs, 'tis above 35 Miles in Length.

This Situation muſt neceſſarily make the narrow Part a moſt important Paſs, from the more Southerly Parts of Scotland to the Northern Countries, which are beyond it. We have been told, the Romans ne⯑ver conquered thus far, and the Conqueſts of Oliver Cromwell have been much magnified on this Ac⯑count; but if what Mr. Camden records, and is confirmed by other Accounts from the Men of [201] Learning and Obſervation, be true, this muſt be a Miſtake; for we are told, that near Bean Caſtle in the County of Nairn, there was found, in the Year 1406. a fine Marble Veſſel curiouſly carved, which was full of Roman Coins of ſeveral Sorts; alſo ſeveral old Forts or Mounts have been ſeen here, which, by their Remains, evidently ſhewed themſelves to be Roman.

I now entered the Shire of Inverneſs, abounding with large Woods of Firr and Oak, and having in it ſome Iron Mines. It contains Badenock, Locha⯑ber, and the South and Weſt Parts of Roſſe, and the Iſle of Sky; of all which I ſhall ſpeak, as they offer in the Courſe I took.

In the narrow Paſs mentioned above, over the Lake ſtands the Town and Fortreſs of Inverneſs, that is, a Town on the inner Bank of the River Neſs. The Situation of it (as I have ſaid before) intimates, that it is a Place of Strength; and accord⯑ingly it has a Caſtle, founded in antient Times to command the Paſs: And ſome Authors write, that it was antiently a Royal Houſe for the Kings of Scotland. Be that as it will, Oliver Cromwell thought it a Place of ſuch Importance, that he built a ſtrong Citadel here, and kept a ſtated Gariſon always in it, and ſometimes more than a Gariſon; finding it needful to have a large Body of his old veteran Troops poſted here to preſerve the Peace of the Country, and keep the Highlanders in Awe, which they did effectually all his Time.

It is obſerved, that at the End of thoſe troubleſome Days, when the Troops on all Sides came to be diſ⯑banded, and the Men diſperſed, abundance of Eng⯑liſh Soldiers ſettled in this fruitful Part of the Country, from whence it received two Advantages:

• 1. They learnt the Art of Huſbandry in full Per⯑fection, which they did not underſtand before; which, with the Help of a rich Soil, has rendered this Part [202] of the Country more fruitful than the reſt of Scot⯑land to this Day. And to this it is in ſome meaſure owing, that the Harveſt is ſo early, and the Corn ſo good, as is obſerved above.
• 2. As Cromwell's Soldiers initiated them thus into the Arts and Induſtry of the Huſbandman, ſo they left them the Engliſh Accent upon their Tongues, which they likewiſe preſerve to this Day; for they ſpeak perfect Engliſh, even much better than in the moſt Southerly Provinces of Scotland; nay, ſome will ſay, as well as at London itſelf.

Their Tongue is not only Angliciſed, but their Palates too; their Way of Eating and Cookery, Dreſs and Behaviour, is according to the Southern Mode: I wiſh they do not, in time, degenerate into Luxury, and forget that military Original which firſt reformed them.

The Fort which was then built, and afterwards demoliſhed, has been reſtored ſince the Revolution, and a Gariſon was always kept here by King William, for the better regulating the Highlands; which Poſt was of ſingular Importance in the Time of the In⯑ſurrection of the Earl of Marr for the Pretender; when, tho' his Party took it, they were driven out again by the Country with the Aſſiſtance of the Earl of Sutherland, and ſeveral other of the Nobility and Gentry, who ſtood faſt to the King's Intereſt.

Inverneſs may be ſaid to be a pleaſant, clean, and well-built Town. There are ſome Merchants in it, and it has a good Share of Trade. In it the Sheriff keeps his Court. It conſiſts of two large handſome Streets, and has a ſtately Stone Bridge of ſeven large Arches over the River Neſs, where (as I ſaid before) it grows narrow between the Sea and the Lake. The Water of this River is almoſt always warm, and all the Year long is never ſo cold as to freeze; nay, in the ſharpeſt Winter, if Cakes of Ice are thrown into it, they will be quickly thaw'd by its [203] Warmth. Small Veſſels may come up to the Town; but larger Ships, which often come thither for Corn, are forced to lie at ſome Diſtance Eaſt from it.

But it has been lately improved, and is ſtill far⯑ther improving; for in the Year 1718 an Act paſſed, for laying a Duty of a Sixth of a Peny Sterling on every Pint of Ale, &c. ſold within the Town and its Privileges, for building a Church and making a Harbour there. The Preamble to the Act, giving a Deſcription of the Place, and the Reaſons of applying for it, I ſhall inſert, and is to the fol⯑lowing Effect:

That the Town of Inverneſs is ſituate near the Sea, and very capable of Improvements in its Trade and Commerce, and having but a very ſmall publick Revenue, incumbered with Debts, and thoſe in⯑creaſed by the Expence the Inhabitants were at in oppoſing the Rebellion of 1715. And the Church of the ſaid Town, beſide, being ruinous, was not large enough to contain the Inhabitants; for the effecting of theſe good Purpoſes the ſaid Act was paſſed.

This Act was to be in Force for 19 Years only; and the firſt five Years it produced ſo well, that the Magiſtrates of Inverneſs entered upon a Deſign greatly to inlarge and improve their Harbour; in order to which they purchaſed Grounds, rented Quarries, built Boats for tranſporting Stone, deepened their Harbour, erected Bulwarks and Quays; ſo that it was made much more commodious than ever: But the next 13 Years the Produce of the Duties was ſo low, occaſioned by the exceſſive Uſe of run Tea and Brandy, which People could buy ſo cheap, that the Conſumption of Beer and Ale was greatly leſſened, and they having run much behind-hand, were forced to apply for a further Continuation of the Act; and accordingly, in the 11th Year of King George II. an Act paſſed for continuing the ſame for [204] 21 Years more, for paying the Debts contracted, and effecting the other good Purpoſes I have mentioned. Which, when done, will make Inver⯑neſs a Place of as great Account as any in the North of Scotland.

When we are over the Bridge of Inverneſs, you enter that which we truly call the North of Scot⯑land, and others the North Highlands; in which are ſeveral diſtinct Shires, but cannot call for a par⯑ticular Deſcription, becauſe they are all one un⯑diſtinguiſhed Range of Mountains and Woods, over⯑ſpread with vaſt and almoſt uninhabited Rocks and Steeps filled with Deer innumerable of various Kinds; among which are ſome of thoſe the Antients called Harts and Roebucks, with over-grown Stags and Hinds of the Red-deer Kind.

Before I deſcribe this frightful Country, it is ne⯑ceſſary to obſerve, that Scotland may be divided into four Diſtricts, which I have not ſeen any of our Geographers do before me; yet, I believe, may not be an improper Meaſurement for ſuch as would form a due Idea of the Whole in their Minds.

• 1. The South-land, or that Part of Scotland South of the River Tay, drawing a Line from the Tay, about Perth, to Loch-lomond, and down to Dumbar⯑ton, and the Bank of Clyde.
• 2. The Middle, or Mid-land, being all the Country from the Tay and the Lough-lomond, North to the Lake of Neſs and Aber, including a long Slope to the South, taking in the Weſtern Highlands of Argyll and Lorn, and the Iſles of Iſla and Jura.
• 3. The North-land, being all the Country be⯑yond Inverneſs, and the Lough or River Neſs, North, drawing the Line over the narrow Space of Glen⯑gary; between the Neſs and Aber, and bounded by them both from the Eaſtern to the Weſtern Sea.
• [205]4. The Iſlands, being all the Weſtern and North⯑ern Iſlands, the Hebrides, Skye, Orkneys, and other Iſles of Shetland.

According to this Deſcription, having paſſed the Bridge over the River Neſs, I am now entered on the third Diviſion of Scotland called the North-land. Here are not only the beſt Hawks of all Kinds, but Eagles in great Numbers, which prey upon the young Fawns when they fall firſt, and upon Wild Fowl, with which this Part of the Country abounds.

The Rivers and Lakes alſo in this Country are ſo prodigiouſly full of Salmon, that it is hardly credible what Quantities are taken in the Spey, the Nairn, the Neſs, and other Rivers hereabout.

The ſeveral Countries beyond the Neſs are, Roſs, Sutherland, Strathnavern, Caithneſs, and beyond thoſe the Iſlands of Orkney and Shetland.

Sutherland is called the Shire of Dornoch, from the chief Town of the Province called Dornoch, a Royal Burgh, noted for a Caſtle belonging to the Earl of Sutherland; for its Cathedral Church for the Dioceſe of Caithneſs, which once was Part of this Shire; and for its four annual Fairs. It has three remarkable Foreſts, beſides abundance of other Woods, which afford pleaſant Hunting and Fowling. One ſort of Bird is peculiar to this Country, called Knug, which reſembles a Parrot, and digs its Neſt in the Trunks of Oak, with its Beak. There are about 60 Lakes in this County: The greateſt is Lochſkin, 14 Miles in Length; in many of them are Iſlands very pleaſant for Summer Habitations. In the Iſle of Brora, the Earl of Sutherland has a Houſe, which he makes uſe of when he comes to hunt Deer, which abound in it; and in ſome of the Lakes and Rivers of this County, as well as in the Rivers of Aberdeen, and Roſſe, are found Pearls of great Value. In ſhort, this Shire ſo abounds with Lakes, Rivers, and Bays, that there is ſcarce a Farm in the whole County, [206] but is waſhed either with freſh or ſalt Water, ſo that the Inhabitants have Store of Fiſh and Fowl. The Beer or Big in this County is reckoned excellent. It has alſo Silver Mines, and excellent Iron Mines, Coal Mines, and Quarries of Free-ſtone, but much neglected. It has many commodious Harbours for Ships to export its Commodities; which are Cod, Salmon, ſalt Beef, Wool, Skins, Hides, Tallow, Butter, Cheeſe, &c. The Bays and Coaſts alſo abound with Seals, have ſometimes Whales, and Shell Fiſh of all ſorts.

The Earl of Sutherland has a Caſtle beyond In⯑verneſs, called Dunrobin, ſituate on the Eaſtern Shore, of which his Lordſhip was ſent down by Sea to take an early Poſſeſſion in the late Rebellion; and which if he had not done, would ſoon have fallen into the Hands of the late Earl of Marr's Party; but his coming timely thither, prevented him and the Country on that Side, from joining the Troops of the Pretender. In the Gardens of this Seat, tho' ſo Northerly, Saffron grows very well, and comes to Maturity.

Strathnavern is Part of Sutherland, and derives its Name from Strath, a Valley, ſituated on the River Navern, which runs thro' it. The Country is moun⯑tainous, and formerly was noted for breeding greater Numbers of ravenous Wolves than any other in Scotland. The Bays and Rivers are full of Fiſh; it is very woody, and many Lakes are in the Val⯑leys. There are ſeveral Monuments in it, of Victories gained over the Danes, particularly one at Enbo, which is a Stone Croſs, ſaid to be over a Daniſh King. The Inhabitants are great Hunters, and deſpiſe thoſe who are not; ſo that Veniſon with them is a common Diſh. The Situation of the Country not admitting of Towns, the Inhabitants live up and down in ſmall Villages. On the Northern Coaſt of this County are ſeveral Iſlands. [207] Of the many Lakes, Lochnavern and Lochyol are the largeſt, and the latter affords an Iſland which is inhabited in the Summer time. Borwe and Young, are the Places of moſt Note, the latter the principal Seat of the Lord Rea, Chief of the Mackays, who is the principal Proprietor of Strathnavern; but holds it of the Earl of Sutherland, to whoſe eldeſt Son it gives the Title of Lord. The Earls of Suther⯑land were formerly of the Name of Sutherland, to the Heireſs of which a Son of the Houſe of Gordon mar⯑ried, from whom the preſent Earl is deſcended. They have a long time claimed Precedency, as the firſt Earls of the Kingdom, and in order to recover it, have re-aſſumed their former Name. They have great Royalties, as being Admirals of that, and ſome of the neighbouring Counties, and all the Gentlemen of Sutherland hold of them. Lord Duffus is deſcended of this Family. The Earl is Hereditary Sheriff of it. The County has ſeveral Mountains of white Marble, as we were told.

North of the Mouth of the River Neſſe, is the famous Cromarty Bay, or Cromarty Firth, noted for being the fineſt Harbour, with the leaſt Buſineſs, perhaps, of any in Britain. It is 15 Miles long, and in many Places two Miles broad; and, like Milford-haven in Wales, is able to receive the Royal Navy of Great-Britain both to go out and come in with Safety; but, for want of Trade, this noble Harbour, which by Geographers and Mariners, is called Portus Salutis, or the Harbour of Safety, is become almoſt uſeleſs.

The Shire of Cromarty is denominated from a Royal Burgh, ſtanding upon the Firth of Cromarty. The Waters of Connel are celebrated for the Pearls found in them. Of great Part of this County the Earl of Cromarty is Sheriff and Proprietor. The Straths or Valleys upon the Water-ſide abound with Woods. Particularly, upon the Hills is great [208] Store of all ſorts of Game; alſo near Alſerig, upon the Waters of Braan, and on the Carron, are great Woods of Fir.

All the County beyond the River Neſſe, and the Loch flowing into it, is called Caithneſs, and extends to the Northermoſt Land in Scotland. It is divided from Sutherland by the Mountain Ord, and a Tract of Mountains running from it as far as Knochfin.

Some People tell us they have Lead, Copper, and Iron in this Part of Scotland; and I am very much inclined to believe it; but it ſeems reſerved for a future and more induſtrious Age to ſearch into it. Should a Time come, when theſe hidden Treaſures of the Earth ſhall be diſcovered and improved, this Part of Scotland would be no longer eſteemed poor; for ſuch a Production would ſoon change the Face of Things, bring Wealth and Commerce to it, fill the Harbours with Ships, the Towns with People, and by conſuming the Proviſions, occaſion the Soil to be cultivated, the Fiſh cured, the Cattle con⯑ſumed at Home, and thereby diffuſe Proſperity all around them.

Our Writers have repreſented the Inhabitants here wild and barbarous: They were ſo formerly, per⯑haps; but we ſee the Mackenzies, Macleods, Suther⯑lands, M^c Leans, M^c Donalds, Gordons, M^c Keys, Macferguſons, M^c Intoſhes, and others ſprung from thence, equally accompliſhed for the Court or Camp.

It muſt be owned, here are but few Towns; the People live diſperſed in Clans under a kind of Vaſ⯑ſalage, ſubmitting to their Lords as their lawful Monarchs, and many of them acknowledge no other; tho' this too, is in a manner got over, and the Clans are leſs dependent on their Chiefs, than they uſed to be, by virtue of an Act of Parliament made for that very Purpoſe.

Their Employment is chiefly Hunting for their Food, tho' they alſo breed large Quantities of Black [209] Cattle, with which they pay their Lairds or Leaders the Rent of the Lands. Theſe Cattle are driven annually to England to be ſold, and are bought up chiefly in the Counties of Norfolk, Suffolk, and Eſſex; as I have mentioned in ſeveral Places in my Tour.

There are many little Towns and Villages, beſides Gentlemens Seats in Caithneſs, as far North as it is: But the People are more addicted to good Living within Doors, than to ſhewy Edifices, or fine Seats. The beſt Houſe in it, is Caſtle Sinclair, ſo called from the Name of the Earls of Sinclair, whoſe Seat it is, and they have ſeveral other Caſtles in the County. The Lord Sinclair of Ravenſheugh in Fife is chief of the Name. His Anceſtors formerly poſſeſſed Orkney and Shetland, and were allied to the Royal Family of Denmark. But one of the Family ſquandered away his Eſtate, and among the reſt, theſe Iſlands; and got for it the inglorious Title of, William the Waſter. The chief Town and Royal Burgh in Caithneſs is Wick or Weich, whence it is called the Shire of Weich. This Town lies conveniently for Trade, and has a good Harbour for Ships on the Eaſtern Coaſt. It is the Reſidence of the Sheriff, or his Officer.

Thurſo, another Town with a good Harbour, lies alſo on the Northern Coaſt, in a little Bay. The Iſles of Orkney and Shetland, I refer to the Account of the Iſles.

And I ſhall obſerve, once for all, that I am the more particular in my Deſcription of theſe Northern Parts of Scotland, becauſe they are leaſt known, and leſs valued and eſteemed than they deſerve.

This County is ſurrounded with the Sea, and thoſe two great Inlets of Water, mentioned above, called the Neſs and the Abre: So that it forms a Peninſula, by means of that ſmall Neck of Land of about eight Miles long, which Mr. Camden calls the Garrow or Glengarrough, others Glengary. Were [210] it not for this, the whole Diviſion of the North⯑land would be a diſtinct Iſland, ſeparated from all the reſt of Great Britain, as effectually as the Ork⯑neys or the Iſle of Skye is from this.

That Part which lies to the Eaſt, is open to the Sea, without Cover; the Weſt and the North are, in a manner, ſurrounded with Out-works as a Defence to break off the raging Ocean from the North; for the Weſtern Iſlands on one Side, and the Orkneys on the other, lie as ſo many advanced Fortifications or Redoubts, to combat that Enemy at a Diſtance.

From Dunrobin Caſtle you have nothing of Note offers itſelf, either by Sea or Land, but an extended Shore lying North and South, without Towns, and without Harbours; and as there are none of the former to be found, ſo there are none of the laſt wanting.

The Land thus extended lies North and South to Dungſby-head, which is the utmoſt Extent of it, on the Eaſt-ſide of Britain North, and is diſtant from Cromarty 18 Leagues North. From this Point of Dingſby or Dungſby-head, as I obſerved before of Buchan and Winterton, the Sailors take their Diſtances, and keep their Accounts in their going farther North; e. g.

From this Point of Dingſby-head to the Fair-iſle or Faro, which is the firſt of Shetland, or the laſt of the Orkneys, (call it which you will; for it lies be⯑tween both) is 25 Leagues, or 75 Miles.

From the ſame Dungſby-head to Sumburgh-head, that is, to Shetland, is 32 Leagues, or 96 Miles, and to Lerwick Fort in Shetland 110 Miles.

Thus from Buchanneſs to Sumburgh-head in Shet⯑land, is 47 Leagues.

And from Wintertonneſs near Yarmouth, on the Coaſt of Norfolk, to Buchanneſs, on the Coaſt of Aberdeen, is juſt 100 Leagues. So from Winterton to Shetland is 147 Leagues, or 431 Miles.

I am now to obſerve, that we are here at the ex⯑tremeſt Point of the Iſland of Great Britain; and [211] that here the Land bears away Weſt, leaving a large Streight or Sea, which they call Pictland, or Pentland Firth, and which divides between the Iſland of Great Britain, and the Iſles of the Orkneys; a Paſſage broad and fair; for 'tis not leſs than five Leagues over, and has a ſufficient Depth of Water for Ships to ſail in: But the Tides are ſo fierce, ſo uncertain, and the Guſts and ſudden Squalls of Wind ſo fre⯑quent, that very few Merchant Ships care to venture thro' it, and the Dutch Eaſt-India Ships, which come North about, (as 'tis called) in their Return from India, keep all farther off, and chuſe to come by Fair-iſle, in the Paſſage between the Iſlands of Orkney and Shetland; whither they generally ſend their Men of War to meet them, being ſure of not miſſing them in ſo narrow a Paſſage.

But the Paſſage here is much broader, being at leaſt nine Leagues from North Ranalſha, the fartheſt Iſland of the Orkneys, to Fair-iſle, and five more from Fair-iſle to Shetland: So that it is 14 Leagues clear open Sea between the Orkneys and Shetland, with only a ſmall Iſland in the Way, which has nothing dangerous about it.

In the Paſſage between the Land's End of Britain and the Orkneys, is a ſmall Iſland, which our Mari⯑ners call Stroma, Mr. Camden, and others, Sowna; and is much ſpoken of as dangerous for Ships: But I ſee no room to record any thing of that kind, any more than the Report, that it is haunted by Witches and Spirits, which draw Ships on Shore to their Misfortune.

At Dungſby-head is the moſt Northerly Land of Great Britain, where, in the Month of June, after a clear Day, we could ſee to read the ſmalleſt Print, and to write diſtinctly, all Night long, without the Help of a Candle.

No wonder the antient Mariners, be they Phoe⯑nician or Carthaginian, who knew nothing of the Motion of the heavenly Bodies, when they were [212] driven thus far, were ſurpriſed to find they had loſt the ſteady Rotation of Day and Night, which they thought had ſpread over the whole Globe. They imagined the Elyſian Fields muſt lie this Way, when they found they were come already to the Realm of everlaſting Day.

From hence Weſt we go along the Shore of the Firth, which they call Pentland, where is the famous Houſe called John a Grot's. We ſet our Horſes Feet into the Sea, on the moſt Northerly Land, as the People ſay, of Britain, tho', I think, Dungſby⯑head is as far North. 'Tis certain, however, the Difference is but very ſmall, being either of them in the Latitude of 59⅙ North, and Shetland reaching above two Degrees farther. The Dominions of Great Britain are extended from the Iſle of Wight, in the Latitude of 50 Degrees, to the Iſles of Unſta in Shetland, in the Latitude of 61 Degrees 30 Minutes, being 10 Degrees, or full 600 Miles, in Length; which Iſland of Unſt or Unſta, being the moſt remote of the Iſles of Shetland to the North-eaſt, lies 167 Leagues from Wintertonneſs in Nor⯑folk.

Here we found, however mountainous and wild the Country appeared, the People extremely well furniſhed with Proviſions, eſpecially four Sorts in great Plenty; two of them ſufficient for a common Table, the other two the Splendor of the greateſt

• 1. Very good Bread, as well Oat Bread as Wheat, tho' the laſt not ſo cheap as the firſt.
• 2. Veniſon exceeding plentiful, and at all Seaſons, young or old, which they kill with their Guns where⯑ever they find it, for there is no Reſtraint; on which Account all the Highlanders have Fire-arms, and become excellent Markſmen.
• 3. Salmon in ſuch Plenty as is ſcarce credible, and conſequently ſo cheap, that to thoſe who have any Subſtance to buy with, it is not worth giving [213] themſelves any Trouble to catch it. This they eat freſh in the Seaſon, and at other times cured by being dried in the Sun, and ſo preſerved all the Year.
• 4. They have no want of Cows and Sheep, but the latter are ſo wild, that ſometimes, were they not, by their own Diſpoſition, uſed to flock together, they would be much harder to kill than the Deer.

From hence to the Weſt Point of the Paſſage to Orkney is near 20 Miles, which may be called the End of the Iſland of Britain, which faces directly to the North Pole, ſo that the Tail of the Great Bear is ſeen juſt over your Head. The Day is here, in Summer, ſaid to be 18 Hours long, the Sun remaining ſo long above the Horizon; and when he is ſet, he makes ſo ſmall an Arch of a Circle below the Horizon, that it is much above a Twilight all the Night; but it muſt be remembered, that the dark Nights take in Winter their Turn, and are protracted to as great a Degree.

Yet it is obſervable here, that they have more temperate Winters, generally ſpeaking, than we have in the moſt Southerly Part of the Iſland; and parti⯑cularly, the Water in ſome of the Rivers, as in the Neſs, for Example, never freezes (as I have obſerved before); which is accounted for from the Nearneſs of the Sea, which filling the Air with ſalt Vapours, ſheathes, as it were, the acute Particles of the Cold.

For the ſame Reaſon the Snows are not ſo deep, nor do they lie ſo long upon the Ground, as in other Places. The Summits indeed of the high Hills, whither theſe Vapours cannot reach, are continually covered with Snow, and perhaps have been ſo for many Ages, ſo that this Country, if any in the World, agrees with the following Deſcription:

[214]On the moſt inland Parts of this Country, eſpe⯑cially in the Shire of Roſs, they have vaſt Woods of Fir-trees for 15 or 20 Miles in Length, not planted by Mens Hands, as I have deſcribed in the Southern Part of Scotland; but as they came out of the Hands of Nature, and nouriſhed by her Hand-maid, Time. If we may believe the Inhabitants, they are large enough to make Maſts for the biggeſt Ships; and yet are of no Service, merely for want of the Con⯑venience of Water-carriage to bring them away. But methinks, rather than they ſhould remain an uſe⯑leſs Burden to the Earth, they might be cut down and burnt, from whence might be drawn vaſt Quan⯑tities of Pitch, Tar, Roſin, Turpentine, &c. which is of eaſier Carriage, and would well anſwer the Trouble. Indeed an Attempt has been made of this kind for Pot-aſh; but it did not ſucceed, rather thro' the Fault of the Undertakers at London, than any thing elſe.

And now leaving the Northern Proſpect, we paſs the oppoſite Point Weſt from Dungſby-head, and which the People call Farro-head, tho' Mr. Camden calls theſe two Points by two different Names: The Eaſt Point, or Dungſby-head, he calls Virvedrum Promontorium. The Weſt Point, or Farro-head, he calls Sarvedrum Promontorium.

From hence the vaſt Weſtern Atlantick Ocean appears, for which the Geographers have not agreed upon a Name, there being no Country to derive it from.

And now we were to turn our Faces South; for as to the Iſlands of this Sea, which make the fourth Diviſion of Scotland, as I mentioned before, I ſhall take notice of them under one Head, in the Con⯑cluſion of my Tour.

In our Attempt to come down to the Southward by the Coaſt of Tayne, and the Shire of Roſs, we ſhould have been extremely diſappointed, and per⯑haps [215] have been obliged to get a Ship or Bark, to have carried us round the Iſle of Skye into Locha⯑ber, had it not been for the extraordinary Courteſy of ſome of the Gentlemen of the Country.

On the other hand, we unexpectedly met here ſome Engliſh Men, who were employ'd by Merchants in the South, to take and cure a large Quantity of White-fiſh, and afterwards of Herrings, on account of Trade. Here we had not only the Civility of their Aſſiſtance and Accommodation in our Journey, but the Pleaſure of ſeeing what Progreſs they made in their Undertaking.

As for the Herrings, the Quantity of them was prodigious. The Shoal was beginning to come, when we firſt came to the Head of Pentland Firth; and in a Fortnight's time, the Body of their num⯑berleſs Shoals began to appear; but before we left the Coaſt, you would have ventur'd to ſay of the Sea, as they do of the River Tibiſcus, or Thieſſe in Hun⯑gary, that it was one third Water, and two thirds Fiſh. The Operation of taking them could hardly be called Fiſhing; for they did little more than dip for them into the Water, and take them up. I make no Scruple to ſay, that if there had been 10,000 Ships to have loaded with them, they might all have been filled. The Fiſh did not ſeem to ſtay, but paſſed on to the South, that they might ſupply other Parts, and make way alſo for thoſe innumerable Shoals which were to come after.

Had the Quantity of White-fiſh been any way proportioned to the Herrings, there would, no doubt, have been ſuch Encouragement to the Merchants, that they would never have given it over; but they found it would not fully anſwer: Not but that there were great Quantities of Cod, and the Fiſh were ſize⯑able and good; but as they are taken with Hook and Line, they could not with any Diſpatch get a ſuffi⯑cient [216] Loading, or lay up enough in large Quanti⯑ties in the Seaſon.

The Bay of Tayne is unſafe for Ships, runs a great way up into the County, divides Roſſe from Suther⯑land, and ends at the Promontory of Tarbat. We found the Town of Tayne, and ſome other Villages, tolerably well inhabited, and ſome Trade alſo, oc⯑caſioned principally by the Communication with the Weſtern Iſlands, and alſo by the Herring-fiſhing, the Fiſhing-boats from other Parts often putting into thoſe Ports; for all their Coaſt is full of Loughs and Rivers, and other Openings, which make very good Harbours for Shipping; and what is remarkable, ſome of thoſe Loughs are infinitely full of Herrings, even where, as they tell us, they have no Commu⯑nication with the Sea, ſo that they muſt have, in all Probability, been put into them alive by ſome parti⯑cular Hands, and have multiplied there, as we find at this Time, if they have not ſome Communi⯑cations with the Sea, which are not diſcovered to the Inhabitants.

We could underſtand no more of what the Peo⯑ple commonly ſaid on this Side, than if we had been in Morocco; all the Remedy we had was, that we found moſt of the Gentlemen ſpoke French, and ſome few broad Scotiſh. It was indeed upon other Accounts much for our Convenience to make the common People believe we were French.

Should we go about here to give you an Account of the Religion of the People in this Country, it would be an unpleaſant Work, and perhaps ſcarce gain Credit. You would hardly believe, that in a Chriſtian Iſland, as this is ſaid to be, there ſhould be People who know ſo little of the Chriſtian Religion, as not to diſtinguiſh Sunday from a common Day of Labour, or the Worſhip of God from an ordinary Meeting for Converſation. I am unwilling to re⯑cord ſo ungrateful a Truth, which may in time find [217] Redreſs; but I cannot but ſay that his Majeſty's Gift of 1000l. paid annually to the Aſſembly of Scotland, for ſending Miniſters or Miſſionaries for the propagating Chriſtian Knowledge in the High⯑lands, is certainly one of the moſt needful Charities that could have been thought of, and truly worthy of a King; and, if prudently applied, as there is Reaſon to believe it is, may in time diſpel that Cloud of Ignorance that has ſo far overſpread this unhappy Part of the Country. The People have the Bible in their own Language, the IRS; and the Miſſionaries are obliged to preach to them, and examine and catechiſe their Children in the IRS Language, ſo that we are not to deſpair of having this Country as well inſtructed in time as other Parts of Britain.

The Shire of Tayne, with the little Shire of Cromarty, and part of the Shire of Inverneſs, com⯑prehends the whole Country called Roſſe. The firſt Tract towards the South-weſt in the County of Roſſe, is Kintail, ſeparated from the Iſle of Skye by a narrow Firth. Next is a little Track called Gle⯑nelebeg, the paternal Eſtate of the Earl of Seaforth, whoſe chief Seat is called Caſtle Ylendoven, lying in an Iſland of the above-mentioned Firth. Farther North, on the ſame Coaſt, lies Loch-ew, with thick Woods, where Iron was formerly made. A little farther North, Loch-brien runs into this County, and is remarkable for its noble annual Fiſhery of Herrings.

The Peninſula which lies betwixt the Bay of Cromarty and Murray is called Ardmeanach, upon the Shore of which ſtands the Town called, the Chanonry of Roſs, formerly a Biſhop's See. It is plea⯑ſantly ſituated in a Valley betwixt fruitful Hills. It had once a ſtately Cathedral and Caſtle, where the Biſhop dwelt. Here the late Earl of Seaforth had a noble Houſe. Beaulieu, formerly a pleaſant and rich Abbey, lies near the Mouth of the River [218] Farrar, and is now poſſeſſed by the Lord Lovat. The Earl of Seaforth had near it a Caſtle called Kildun. There are other Seats of antient Families in this County, which my Compaſs will not let me deſcribe, and I ſhall mention them at the latter End of my Tour, in a general Liſt, that you may be enabled to form an Idea of the numerous Families of Gentry which Scotland produces.

On this Coaſt is the Iſle of Skye, lying from the Weſt-north-weſt, to the Eaſt-ſouth-eaſt, and bear⯑ing upon the main Iſland, only ſeparated by a nar⯑row Streight of Water; ſomething like as the Iſle of Wight is ſeparated from the County of Southampton. We left this on our Right, and croſſing the Moun⯑tains, came, with as little Stay as we could, to the Loughs called Lochyol, and Lochlochy, which run thro' that large Country called Lochaber, that is, [...]ver the Lochs, and which ſome affect to call the River Aber or Abre, i. e. the Water which, as I ſaid above, aſſiſts, with Loughneſs, or Lochneſs, to ſeparate the North Land of Scotland, from the middle Part.

This is a long and narrow Inlet of the Sea, in Length above 24 Miles, the Depth unknown, which opening from the Iriſh Sea South-weſt, meets the River Abre, or, as the Scots much more properly expreſs it, the Water of Abre; for it is rather a large Lake or Loch than a River, and receives innumerable ſmall Rivers into it. It riſes in the Mountains of Roſs, or of Glengary, within five or ſix Miles from the Shore of the Lochneſs, or the Water of Neſs, which is a long and narrow Lake like itſelf; and as the Neſs runs away Eaſt to Innerneſs, and ſo into the great Gulph called Murray Firth, ſo the Abre, becoming preſently a Loch or Lake, always goes away more to the Southward, and ſloping South-weſt, runs into the Iriſh Seas, as above.

[219] Lochaber is 50 Miles in a ſtrait Line from Inver⯑lochy to Inverneſs, and is one of the moſt barren Countries in North Britain, tho' the People have Wood, Goats and Deer in Plenty. Glenco is almoſt the only Town in it; noted for the barbarous and inhuman Maſſacre perpetrated there by K. William's Soldiers, quartered in thoſe Parts, and who cut off Men, Women and Children without Mercy. A Maſſacre that made a great Noiſe, and was uni⯑verſally deteſted; and what made it ſtill the more odious was, that the Commander in that bloody Work found Friends enough to ſcreen him from the Inquiry that was attempted to be made into the horrid Fact, in order to find out who gave him his Orders for it.

Lochaber is noted in Hiſtory for Banco, its gallant Thane, about the Year 1050, who was murdered by the Tyrant Macbeth, becauſe of a Prophecy, That his Poſterity ſhould enjoy the Crown for a long Series of Years: Which accordingly happened; for his Son flying into Wales, married the Prince of North Wales's Daughter; by whom he had Walter, afterwards Steward of Scotland, from whom the Royal Family of Stuart was deſcended. It was on this Story that our celebrated Shakeſpeare founded his Tragedy called Macbeth.

On this Water of Abre, juſt at the Entrance of the Loch, was antiently a Fort built to curb the Highlanders, on either Side, called Inverlochy. It was formerly of great Strength, and yet often de⯑ſtroy'd by the Danes and Norwegians. And at the Revolution, King William cauſed it to be rebuilt, or rather erected a new Fort there, which is called Caſtle William, as the Village is Mary-burgh; and there is always a good Gariſon kept in it for curbing the Highlanders. It is ſo ſituated, that tho' it may indeed be blocked up by Land, and diſtreſſed by a [220] Siege, yet, as it is open to the Sea, it may conſtantly receive Supplies by Shipping.

From Inverlochy to Lochneſs has General Wade, with the moſt commendable Induſtry and Pains, thro' almoſt inacceſſible Mountains, and Moſſes, and Moraſſes, made a moſt convenient Road, which even ſurpaſſes (the County conſider'd) what the Romans had done with their ſeveral Military Ways; and ſhews, that the Soldiery might be made uſeful even in Times of Peace, and rather a Benefit than a Burden to the Country; and at the ſame time ſo inure them to Toil, Labour, and Hardineſs, as would render them fitter for their Country's Service in Time of War. To defend this Road from the Rage of the Highlanders, and at the ſame time to keep them in Awe, the General built a regular For⯑tification, which is called Fort Auguſtus. By this means the Highlands, which before were inacceſſi⯑ble but by Highlanders, who eluded always the Re⯑ſentment of their Purſuers, are eaſily entered, and traverſed at the Pleaſure of the King's Forces; and even the noted Rob Roy himſelf, (ſo famous for his Excurſions and Plunders on the Lowlands, and the King's Friends, and who, notwithſtanding the Pro⯑clamations, and Rewards iſſued for apprehending him, could never be taken) were he alive, would not be able now to find a Place of Refuge from his Purſuers. And this muſt be in time a great Help to the civilizing of the Highlanders, as the Schools eſtabliſhed among them (of which more by-and-by) will be another.

At this Place we take our Leave of the Third Diviſion, which I call the North Land of Scotland; for this Fort, being on the South-ſide of the Loch⯑aber, is therefore called Innerlochy, as the other for the like Reaſon was called Innerneſs.

We have nothing now remaining for a full Survey of Scotland, but the Weſtern Part of the Middle [221] Diviſion of Scotland; and this, tho' a large Country, yet affords not an equal Variety with the Eaſtern Part of the ſame Diviſion.

To traverſe the Remainder of this Country, I muſt begin upon the Upper Tay, as we may juſtly call it, where I left off, when I turned away Eaſt; and here we have in eſpecial manner the Countries of Badenach, Athol and Braidalbin: This is a hilly Country indeed; but as it is water'd by the Tay, and many other pleaſant Rivers which fall into it, there are ſeveral fruitful Valleys interſperſed among the Hills; nor are even the Highlands themſelves, or the Highlanders the Inhabitants, any thing ſo wild, untaught, or untractable, as we have been made to believe, and as are to be found in the North Land Diviſion, that is to ſay, in Strathnavern, Roſs, Tain, &c.

The Duke of Athol is Lord, I had almoſt ſaid King, of this Country; and has the greateſt Number of Vaſſals, of any Nobleman in this, or any Part of Scotland.

The late Duke was always an Oppoſer of the Union in the Parliament holden at Edinburgh, for paſſing it into an Act; but he did not carry his Oppoſition to a Height of Tumult and Rebellion. If he had, as ſome were forward to have had him done, he would poſſibly at that time have bid fair to have prevented the Concluſion of it: But the Hour was come, when the Calamities of War, which for ſo many hundred Years had vexed the two Nations, were to have an End; and tho' the Engliſh Govern⯑ment had never leſs Power than then in Scotland, yet the Affair was carried thro' with a high Hand, all the little Tumults and Diſorders of the Rabble, as well at Edinburgh as at Glaſgow, and other Places, being timely ſuppreſſed, and others by prudent Management prevented.

[222]The Duke has ſeveral fine Seats in this Country; as firſt at Dunkeld, upon the Tay, which I mentioned before, where there was a Fight between the regular Troops and the Highlanders, in the Beginning of the Reign of King William; another at Huntingtour, in the Strathern, or Valley of Ern, where the Duke has a fine Park, and great Store of Deer; which may be called his Hunting-ſeat, whither he ſome⯑times retires for Sport.

He has another Seat at the Caſtle of Blair, far⯑ther North, and beyond the Tay, on the Edge of Braidalbin, upon the Banks of a clear and fine River, which falls into the Tay a few Miles lower.

The Country of Braidalbin has not ſo much as a ſingle Village in it of ten Houſes; yet from its Latin Name Albania, gives oft-times the Title of Duke to ſome of the Royal Family; 'tis ſeated very near the Centre of Scotland, and is alledged to be the higheſt Ground in it, for that the Rivers which riſe here, are ſaid to run every Way from this Part, ſome into the Eaſtern, and ſome into the Weſtern Seas.

The Grampian Mountains here are ſaid to cut thro' Scotland. As the Country is rough and uncultivated, the Inhabitants are a hardy Race of Men, who make excellent Soldiers, when they are liſted abroad in regular and diſciplined Troops; and I muſt add, that they are much civilized from what they were formerly. Theſe Mountains abound with Flocks of Black Cattle, Sheep, Horſes, and Goats. The Beef and Mutton are of a delicious Taſte, and the Wool is valued for its Whiteneſs and Softneſs.

The Duke of Athol, tho' he had not (till of late) an Eſtate equal to ſome of the Nobility, yet was Maſter of more of the Superiorities, as they are called here, than many of thoſe who have twice his Eſtate; and I have been told, that he can bring a Body of above 6000 Men together in Arms at very little Warning.

[223]The Pomp and Grandeur in which this noble Per⯑ſon lives, is not to be imitated in Great Britain; for he is ſerved like a Prince, and maintains a greater Equipage and Retinue, than five times his Eſtate would ſupport in another Country.

The Duke has alſo another Seat in Strathern, which is called Tullibardin, and which gives Title of Marquis to the eldeſt Son of the Houſe of Athol, for the Time being. At the lower Part of this Country the River Ern falls into the Tay, and greatly increaſes its Waters. This River riſes far Weſt, on the Frontiers of the Weſtern Highlands near Glengyl, and running thro' that pleaſant Coun⯑try called Strathern, falls into Tay, below St. Johnſton.

The preſent Duke is the only Peer that I know of, that is ſo by Statute, rather than Patent; for his eldeſt Brother, the Marquis of Tullibardin, being attainted for his Adherence to the Pretender, the Title would of courſe have failed; but that (toge⯑ther with the Eſtate) it was ſettled by Act of Parlia⯑ment on the ſecond Brother, who is alſo Lord of, or King in, the Iſle of Man, and alſo Lord Strange of Knocking, to both which he ſucceeded by the Death of his Couſin James late Earl of Derby.

Soon after the Ern ſhoots forth from the Moun⯑tains, it ſpreads itſelf into a Loch, as moſt of thoſe Rivers do, called Lochern; and then runs by Duplin Caſtle, the Seat of the Earl of Kinnoul, whoſe eldeſt Son is thence called Lord Duplin. The preſent Earl of Kinnoul, when Lord Duplin, mar⯑ried the Daughter of the Earl of Oxford, when Lord High Treaſurer of England; and was, on that Occaſion, made a Peer of Great Britain, by the Title of Lord Hay of Peperdon. His Eſtate here is a very good one, but not attended with Vaſſals and Superiorities, as, I obſerved, the Duke of Athol's is. The ſeveral Owners of this Seat having been pretty [224] much uſed to reſide in it, have adorned it at ſeveral times, each according to his particular Genius. It has lately received a new Decoration, two Wings being added for Offices as well as Ornament.

The old Building is ſpacious, the Rooms large, and Ceilings lofty, filled with Furniture ſuitable to its outward Magnificence, particularly with abun⯑dance of fine Paintings, ſome of the Royal Family, among which is one of King Charles I. with a Let⯑ter in his Hand, held out to his Son the Duke of York, afterwards King James VII. which they ſaid he was to have carried to France. There is alſo a Statue in Braſs of the ſame King on Horſe-back; a Picture of Oliver Cromwell; another of Gene⯑ral Monk, both from the Life. There is alſo a whole Length of that Earl of Kinnoul, who was Lord Chancellor of Scotland, in the Reign of King James VI. and King Charles I. with ſeveral other Pieces of Italian Maſters of great Value.

Duplin Caſtle is remarkable alſo for the greateſt Defeat the Scots ever received from the Engliſh, in the Reign of Edward Baliol, whom the Engliſh came to aſſiſt. In this Battle fourſcore of the Family of Lindſay periſhed, and of the Family of Hay ſo many, that the Name had been extinguiſhed, had not the Chief left his Lady with Child.

From this Place we went to Brechin in Angus, formerly mentioned, an antient Town with a Caſtle finely ſituated; but the Grandeur of it is loſt; the Family of Panmure, to whom it belonged chiefly, having forfeited it in the late Rebellion.

Here I ſhall mention the Cataract near Blair Drum⯑mond on the Keith, which empties itſelf into the Tay, which makes ſo great a Noiſe among the Rocks, that it ſtuns thoſe who come near it.

We were now, after a long Mountain-ramble, come down to the Lowlands, and into a pleaſant and agreeable Country; but as we had yet another [225] Journey to take Weſtward, we had a like Proſpect of a rude and wild Part of Scotland to go thro'.

The Highlands of Scotland may be divided into two Parts, the Weſt Highlands and the North High⯑lands; the latter I have ſpoken of at large, contain⯑ing the Countries of Athol, Lochaber, Badenach, Strathſpey, Innerneſs, Roſs, Sutherland, and Strath⯑navern, together with the Iſles of Skye, Lewis, &c.

The Weſt Highlands contain the Shires or Coun⯑ties of Dunbritton or Dunbarton, alias Lenox, Bute, and Argyll, which laſt contains the Diſtricts of Cowal, Knapdale, Lorn and Cantyre; the Iſles of Mull, Jura, Iſla, &c.

Braidalbin is ſometimes reckoned a Part of the North, and ſometimes of the Weſt Highlands.

On the Banks of the River Ern lies a very plea⯑ſant Vale, which continues from the Tay, quite up to the Highlands, called by Claudian, Glacialis Ierne; but now, according to the Uſage of Scotland, Strath⯑ern, or the Vale of Ern. 'Tis an agreeable Country, has many Gentlemens Seats on both Sides the River; but being near the Highlands, has often ſuffered by Depredations in former Times.

In it are many Roman Camps; particularly one at Ardoch; beſides a Roman Highway, towards Perth. Several Roman Medals have alſo been found there, and of late two Tabulae curiouſly enamelled with a Sepulchral Stone. The Ochil-hills, which run along the South Parts of Perthſhire, abound with Metals and Minerals; particularly they find good Copper, and Lapis Calaminaris; and at Glen-lion they meet with Lead. Here is great Want of Coal; but their excellent Peat, and abundance of Wood, ſupply that Defect.

The Family of Montroſe, whoſe Chief was ſacri⯑ficed for the Royal Cauſe in the late Civil Broils, had a ſtrong Caſtle here called Kincardin, which was demoliſhed in thoſe Wars, and is not rebuilt. The [226] Caſtle of Drummond is almoſt in the ſame Condition, b [...]ng deſerted by its Owners; the two late Earls of [...]th, Father and Grandfather of the preſent Earl, were forced into Exile for adhering to the late King James II. and the Pretender. King James had the latter in ſuch Eſteem, that he not only made him a Duke, and Knight of the Garter, but Governor to the Chevalier.

The Weſtern Highlands, properly ſo called, are the only remaining Part of Scotland, which as yet I have not touched upon. This is that particular Country, which a certain Man in King James II.'s Time called the Kingdom of Argyll, complimenting King James upon having conquered two Kings, when he ſuppreſſed the Duke of Monmouth, whom in Deriſion they called the little King of Lime, and the Earl of Argyll, whom they called, with much more Propriety, the great King of the Highlands.

But tho' the greateſt Part of theſe Weſtern High⯑lands may be ſaid to be ſubject to the Houſe of Argyll, or, to ſpeak more properly, to the Family or Clan of the Campbells, of whom the Duke of Argyll is the Chief, yet ſome of the Weſtern Gen⯑tlemen are not ſo blindly guided by their Chiefs as thoſe in the North; nor, when led on, are they ſo apt to commit Outrages and Violence.

But tho' the People are different in theſe Weſtern and Northern Highlands, the Countries are much alike; only in the former there are not ſuch extenſive Woods of Fir-trees, nor ſuch Quantities of large Eagles.

The People alſo dreſs alike in both, in the Plaid and the Trouſe; go naked from below the Knee to the Mid-thighs; wear a Durk and a Piſtol at their Girdle, and a Target at their Shoulder.

Some reckon the Shire of Braidalbin to belong, as I have ſaid, to theſe Weſtern Highlands; not that it is Weſt in its Situation, for it is rather North; but, [227] I ſuppoſe, becauſe one Part of it is inhabited by the Campbells, whoſe Clan, as I have obſerved, generally poſſeſſes moſt of the Weſt Highlands.

But if they claim the Country, they will have no Reaſon to boaſt of the People, who are, if I may give my Opinion, ſome of the moſt barbarous and ill-governed of all the Highlands of Scotland; deſperate in Fight, fierce in Converſation, apt to quarrel, miſchievous, and even Murderers in their Paſſion.

At the Fight which happened at Gillekranky in Athol, againſt the Viſcount of Dundee, they tell us a Story of a Combat between an Engliſh Soldier and a Highlander. The Engliſhman underſtood the Back-ſword very well, but the Scotchman re⯑ceived all the Blows upon his Target; and yet at the ſame time laid ſo hard at his Antagoniſt with his Broad-ſword, that he cut him in two or three Places; at which the Engliſhman enraged, rather than diſ⯑couraged, cried out to him, You Dog, come out from behind the Door, and fight like a Man; but the Scot, tho' as brave as the other, knew better things; he purſued him, in ſhort, ſo cloſely, that he was juſt going to kill him, when ſome of the Regi⯑ment, that ſaw him diſtreſſed, came up and reſcued him, and took the Highlander Priſoner.

It is hard to ſay whether the Northern or Weſtern Highlanders make the beſt Soldiers. 'Tis certain they both of them are defrauded of an Honour due to them, when we attribute ſeveral gallant Atchieve⯑ments to the Iriſh Battalions Abroad, which were performed by the Scots. Thus in particular 'tis ſaid, the Iriſh Troops beat the Germans out of Cremona, after they had got Poſſeſſion of the Town, and had taken the French General, the Marſhal Viller [...]y, Priſoner: That the Iriſh Battalions in the Spaniſh Service behaved gallantly in Sicily, and ſo on many extraordinary Occaſions. Now tho' it is true, that [228] the Scots came originally from Ireland, yet 'tis to be obſerved, that theſe Soldiers were moſt of them Scots Highlanders, who, upon all Occaſions get over into France, there liſt among the Iriſh Troops; nay, in the late Wars, it has been obſerved, whole Regiments of Highlanders have been raiſed for the Service, who, when they were got Abroad, would take the firſt Opportunity to deſert, and go over to the French, and ſo liſt in the Iriſh Battalions, their original Countrymen, and who ſtill ſpeak the ſame Language.

Leaving the Country about Brechin, and the Lowlands of Strathern, we went away Weſt; but were preſently interrupted by a vaſt inland Sea, ra⯑ther than a Lake, called Lochlomond. It is indeed a Sea, and look'd like it from the Hills from whence we firſt deſcry'd it. It contains thirty Iſlands, three of which have Churches, and ſeveral of the reſt are inhabited. The chief is Inchmurin, about two Miles and a half in Length, fruitful in Corn and Graſs, and abounds with Deer, which the Scotiſh Kings were accuſtomed to hunt there. The others moſt remarkable are Nachaſtel, ſo called from the old Caſtle in it. Inchdavanan, noted for Broom, abundance of wild Berries, pleaſant Habitations, Gardens and Fruit-trees. Inchonnaugan, noted for Birch-trees and Corn-fields. Inchnolaig, noted for Yew-trees, which grow no-where elſe in theſe Iſlands. And Rouglaſh, where the Laird of Macfarlan has a handſome Seat on the Eaſt-ſide of the Lake. Kil⯑maronoch, a fine Seat once belonging to the Earls of Caſſils; but now to the Earl of Dondonald. Bucha⯑nan-caſtle, and ſeveral others.

This Lake or Loch is one of the largeſt in Scot⯑land, being more than 20 Miles long, and generally eight Miles in Breadth, tho' at the North End of it 'tis not near ſo broad. It receives many Rivers [229] into it, but empties itſelf into the Firth of Clyde, at one Mouth.

This Lake abounds with Fiſh of ſeveral Sorts, particularly a Sort called Poans, and by ſome Pol⯑lacks, peculiar to it; a Kind of Eel, very delicious to eat. This gave Occaſion to the Miſtake of Au⯑thors, who ſaid this Lake had Fiſh without Fins. So the Beams faſtened together in ſome Places of the Lake, by the Inhabitants, and covered with Turf, for them to have recourſe to in time of War, and to move from Part to Part, gave Riſe to the Fable of floating Iſlands here.

The famous Grampian Mountains begin near this Lake, and run Northward towards Aberdeen.

The County of Lenox, on which this Lake lies, is in Length about 24 Miles, and in Breadth about twenty. The lower Part is very fertile in Corn; the higher is hilly, mooriſh, and more fit for Paſture. It is the paternal Eſtate and Property of the Stuarts, and extends itſelf from both Sides the Levin, which is the River that (as I ſaid before) empties the Loch⯑lomond into the Clyde. On this Side, Eaſtward, Lenox joins to Monteith, which is Part of Perthſhire, and runs up for ſome Length on the Eaſt-ſide of the Loch, and on the Weſt-ſide it extends to the Edge of the Lochloing, and a great way North, almoſt to the Mountains of Lochaber.

All our Writers of the Deſcription of Lenox in⯑large upon its Family of Stuarts, as proceeding from the Royal Line of Scotland; and, in ſome re⯑ſpect, the Royal Line may be ſaid to proceed from this Houſe, Henry Lord Darnley, eldeſt Son of Matthew Earl of Lenox, having been married to Queen Mary, by whom he was Father of King James the Sixth and Firſt. He was moſt barbarouſly murdered; the Queen was unjuſtly blamed for it; whereas Murray projected it, Bothwell put it in Execution, Morton and others were privy to it; as [230] the ſaid Earl Morton, and others who ſuffered for it, declared at the laſt.

From this Earl Matthew deſcended Charles Duke of Lenox and Richmond, who dying without Iſſue, in 1672. the Eſtate and Honour devolved to King Charles II. as Heir at Law, which he conferred on his natural Son by the Ducheſs of Portſmouth, and to whom he gave the Surname of Lenox; from whom is deſcended the preſent Duke of Richmond and Lenox.

The Buchanans, among many illuſtrious Names, are originally of this County, whence the famous George Buchanan, one of the great Ornaments of his Age for all polite Learning, and not hitherto equalled by any Poet or Hiſtorian ſince his Time, for ſmooth and elegant Latin. But his exceſſive Bias for the Earl of Murray, and his inveterate Prejudice againſt the unfortunate Queen Mary, has quite loſt him the Title of Impartiality; inſomuch, that his Hiſtory of Scotland was condemned by Act of Parliament, when firſt publiſhed, Anno 1582. Whence Sir George Mackenzie took Occaſion to ſay, He was both Decus & Dedecus Patriae, the Grace and Diſgrace of his Country.

Dunbarton is the County Town of Lenoxſhire. It was once conſiderable for its Trade, which is now much decay'd; but is ſtill remarkable for its Caſtle, one of the ſtrongeſt by Nature in Europe; being ſecured by the River on one Side, the Firth of Clyde on the other, by an impaſſable Moraſs on the third, and the fourth is a Precipice: Of this Caſtle the Earl of Hay is Governor.

Take Buchanan's Deſcription of it, to the follow⯑ing Effect: Betwixt the Conflux of Clyde and Leven is a Plain about a Mile long, at the End of which, where the Rivers join, is a Rock with two Sum⯑mits; on the Weſtermoſt is a Watch-tower, afford⯑ing an extended Proſpect into the neighbouring [231] Country. The Eaſtern Summit is lower; and be⯑twixt them are Steps cut out of the Rock, paſſable only by one Man at a time. When any Part is cut or falls off from the Rock, it emits a ſulphureous Smell. At the upper Part of the Caſtle is a great Rock of Loadſtone. The Rock is very ſteep on all Sides but towards the Clyde, where the Aſcent is more eaſy; and betwixt the two Rocks is a Space of Ground incloſed by Art and Nature, which contains many Houſes, makes a ſafe Harbour for Ships, under Protection of the Caſtle, and opens a Paſſage for Boats to the very Gate. On the Aſcent in the Middle are Houſes which look like another Caſtle, ſeparated from the former. The ſame ſerves for a Ditch on the Weſt, and the Clyde on the South; and the Tide comes up to the Eaſt-ſide; and on the North, where the Rock is ſteep, is a green Plain. Three Wells are in the Caſtle always flowing with Water, beſides many Springs; ſo that it may well be deemed impregnable. The Town lies about half a Mile from it, on the Bank of the Levin.

The Roman Wall, which begins at Abercorn, runs thro' this County, and ends at Kilpatrick on Clyde, a Regality of the Lord Blantyre's.

We now entered the large extended Country of Argyll, or the Weſtern Iſlands, commonly called, the Shire of Innerary, from the principal Town, where the Duke of Argyll has his Reſidence. It comprehends, as I have ſaid, Argyllſhire, Knapdale, Caval, Kintyre, and Lorn, with the Weſtern Iſles of Coll, Illcollimkil, Iſla, Jura, Liſmore, Mull, Te⯑reff, and Wyſt. It is 120 Miles long, and 40 broad. It joins to Perthſhire on the Eaſt, to Lochaber on the North-eaſt, to the Iſles on the North-weſt, and to the Iriſh Sea on the South.

Kintyre is a Peninſula, which runs 30 Miles out into the Iriſh Sea, and is no more than 13, ſome ſay 16 Miles from Ireland. Campbel-town, made a [232] Royal Burgh by King William, with a ſafe Har⯑bour for Ships, lies in this County. Camden ſays, the People of this Part, formerly made Excurſions into Ireland, and poſſeſſed themſelves of the Pro⯑vinces of Gline and Rowle.

Knapdale joins to Kintyre on the North by a narrow Neck of Land, ſcarce a Mile over, thro' which the People of the Country draw their ſmall Veſſels, to avoid ſailing round to Kintyre. It abounds with Lakes and Bays, ſeveral of which contain Iſlands and Caſtles; and the Soil is generally fitter for Paſturage than Cultivation; yet it produces Corn in great Plenty.

Lorn is the pleaſanteſt and moſt fruitful Part of the Shire of Argyll. The Caſtle of Dunſtafage ſtands in this County, formerly a Royal Seat, where ſeveral of the antient Kings are buried. The Family of Campbell was made Earls by King James II. of Scot⯑land. They were a long time Lords Juſtices Gene⯑ral of the Kingdom; but ſurrendered that Office to King Charles I. on a valuable Equivalent, beſides having the Juriſdiction of Argyll and the Iſles, and are ſtill Great Maſters of the King's Houſhold in Scotland. They derive their Surname from the Caſtle of Campbell, and according to Camden, their Pedigree from the antient Kings of Argyll, by a long Series of Anceſtors. The Earl of Loudon, the Earl of Braidalbin, the Earl of Iſla, and other great Men, are of this Family.

The whole Shire of Argyll, taking in the above Parts, has ſeven Bays of the Sea entering into it, called, by the Inhabitants, Lochs; the chief is Lochfyn, famous for the Number and Goodneſs of its Herrings; it is ſaid to be about 40 Miles in Length, and at the narroweſt Place about four in Breadth. Lochew, according to Biſhop Leſly, is almoſt as large as Lochlomond, and contains twelve Iſlands, in one of which is the Caſtle of Enconel, in another [233] that of Gleurquhart, and where it enters the Sea, abounds with Salmon. The Sea-coaſt of Argyll, or as far as Lochfyn, abounds with high Rocks, and black Mountains covered with Heath, which afford Paſturage for Black Cattle and Deer. The Black Cattle run for the moſt part wild, but are excellent Meat; and their Fat, when boiled, does not congeal, as others, but continues for ſome Days like Oil. The Inhabitants make great Profit of them by ſelling them to the Lowlanders.

The Duke of Argyll is hereditary Sheriff of this County. 'Tis an old Right of this Family, that when they marry any Daughter, their Vaſſals are obliged to pay their Portion, and are taxed in order to it, according to the Number of their Cattle.

From the Mull of Cantyre you ſee Ireland very plain, it being not above 15 or 16 Miles from the Point of Land, which they call the Mull, to the Fair Foreland, on the Coaſt of Colrain, on the North of Ireland. In the Mouth of this Sea of Clyde lies a Rock, ſomewhat like the Baſs in the Firth of Forth, or of Edinburgh, not for Shape, but for this Particular, that at the Baſs the Solan Geeſe are noted to come in the Seaſon of the Fiſhery, and then fly back again. This Iſland is called the Ailzey.

I ſhall here mention the Iſles of Bute and Arran. Buchanan ſays, that of Bute is eight Miles long, and four broad; Biſhop Leſly, that it is 10 Miles long. It is fruitful in Corn and Paſturage. It has a Royal Burgh called Rothſay, with an antient Caſtle. From this the Royal Family of Stuart is ſuppoſed to derive their Origin: And Duke of Rothſay is now one of the Titles of the Prince of Wales. It has another Caſtle called the Caſtle of Kermes, and four Churches. This Iſland lies in the Mouth of the Clyde, eight Miles Weſt from Arran, and is re⯑markable for its Herring-fiſhing. The Iſle of Bute [234] gives Title of Earl to a Branch of the noble Family of Hamilton, who is the chief Proprietor, and he⯑retable Coroner of the Iſland, and has a Seat at Roſa; as Callartine has at Kermes, and Stuart of Aſcog another. Queen Mary, before ſhe married Lord Darnley, conferred upon him the Title of Duke of Rothſay. Near Bute are two ſmall Iſlands, called Great and Little Cumbrays, the Property of the Earl of Glaſgow.

The Iſle of Arran, which with Bute make up one Sheriffdom, lies alſo in the Mouth of the Clyde, 24 Miles in Length, and near 16 broad, fruitful in Corn and Paſturage. It is very well inhabited on the Coaſt, and is a ſafe and good Harbour, covered by Lamlaſh or the Holy Iſle. It has two Churches, and ſeveral Caſtles, of which that of Brodich is the ſtrongeſt and moſt noted, and is the Reſidence of the Hamilton Family when in theſe Parts, who alſo have a Foreſt here containing about 400 Head of Deer; and the Iſland gives Title of Earl to the Duke of that Name. The Iſland has ſeveral Rivers in it, which abound with Salmon, as the Sea about it does with Herrings, Cod and Whitings.

The People are Proteſtants, ſpeak the Iriſh Language, and are ſtill compoſed of ſeveral Tribes or Clans. The moſt ancient are Mac-Lewis, of French Extraction, in Engliſh named Fullerton, and Lairds of Kirk-Michael, where they reſide.

Theſe two Iſlands are ſurrounded with a tumultous and dangerous Sea, eſpecially in a hard South-weſt Wind, which brings the Sea rolling in upon them in a frightful manner. But the above Harbour of Lamlaſh ſtands them in great ſtead in this Caſe.

Now we are upon theſe Weſtern Coaſts, I ſhall mention, that in the Month of Auguſt 1740. an Attempt was made by Diving, to come at one of the largeſt Ships of the Spaniſh Armada, ſtranded in 1588. on theſe Coaſts. Another was dived for ſome [235] Years ago; but the Sand being looſe, it turned to little or no Account. The other, which was loſt near Portin-croſs, was begun to be ſearched after by Sir Archibald Grant, and Captain Roe, in Auguſt 1740. and the following was the Account that was tranſmit⯑ted to us, which we the rather inſert, as it gives ſome Notion of the Operation by the Diving-engine.

The Country People had preſerved by Tradition the Spot pretty near where ſhe ſunk, and gave them all the Information they were able: Immediately the Divers went to Work, and ſwept for her, which they do thus: They have a long Line, which they ſink with Leads; one End of the Rope is fixed to one Boat, and the other End to another; they row; and whatever interrupts them, the Diver goes down to make a Diſcovery. They ſoon happened on the Place where the Ship lay, which is ſcarce a Quarter of a Mile from the Shore, in ten Fathom and a Foot Water. Captain Roe immediately went down, and found the Veſſel to be very intire, to have a great Number of Guns on board, but to be full of Sand. The firſt Thing he fixed upon was a Cannon, which lay upon the Sand at the Head of the Ship: To this he fixed his Tongs, which are made of ſtrong Bars of Iron; they are open when they are let down, and have Teeth which join into one another. As ſoon as they are fixed upon any thing, he gives the Signal, when they are made to ſhut, and the heavier the Subject, the cloſer they hold. The Cannon was drawn up with a good deal of Difficulty; it meaſures full nine Feet, is of Braſs, greeniſh-coloured, but nothing the worſe. On the Breach there is a Roſe, with an E on the one Side and an R on the other, with this Inſcription, Richard and John Philips, Brethren, made this Piece, Anno 1584. But we may be allowed to obſerve, That by the E. R. on the Cannon, which denotes Eliz. Regina, and the Roſe, as alſo the Engliſh Inſcription of the Makers, it ſhould ſeem [236] to us, that it could not belong to the Armada; but rather to ſome Engliſh Ship, that might have been caſt away there. Ten of theſe Braſs Cannon, and ten Iron ones, have been ſince carried into Dublin; and they hope to recover ſixty out of this Ship. The Guns were all charged, and the Metal of ſome, by lying ſo long under Water, moulders away like Clay.

Several People have ſcraped the Iron Guns, which are as mouldy as Bricks; and by keeping the Metal ſome time in their Hands, it grows ſo hot, that they are not able to bear it; but when it is expoſed two or three Hours in open Air, it loſes all its burning Quality. This is accounted for in the following Manner; viz.

Dr. Tournefort, a French Phyſician, in his Voyage to the Levant, Part I. ſays: It is certain, that the Filings of Iron, ſteeped in common Water, will grow conſiderably warm, and much more ſo in Sea Water. And if you mingle therewith ſome Sulphur powdered, you will really ſee this Mixture burn.

Sir Iſaac Newton, in the laſt Edition of his Opticks, Pag. 354. ſays: That even the groſs Body of Sul⯑phur, powdered with an equal Weight of Iron Filings, and a little Water made into a Paſte, acts upon the Iron; and in five or ſix Hours grows too hot to be touched, and emits a Flame.

Now it is certain, that caſt Iron contains a great deal of Bitumen or Sulphur in its Compoſition, and that Iron in its ſenſible Quality effects Heat, and cannot be perceived without the Admiſſion of Air; which is the Reaſon why the Scrapings ſhould grow hot, altho' the Guns are actually cold to the Touch.

As I have given Accounts of ſeveral publick Cha⯑rities, and other laudable Inſtitutions, in the Southern Parts of Britain, it would be inexcuſable not to mention the Society in Scotland for propagating Chriſtian Knowledge in the Highlands, it being one of the worthieſt Deſigns of the preſent Age; and as [237] we ſhall include in it alſo a Deſcription of the ſaid Highlands, and of the Scots Iſlands beſides; we cannot inſert it in a more proper Place. It is comprehended in a Letter written June 1739. from a Gentleman who is a great Encourager of this noble Inſtitution, to his Friend; and is as follows:

Thus far this Gentleman: We ſhall add, That his Majeſty gives 1000l. per Annum toward this noble Deſign.

[244]I ſhall here ſubjoin the following Liſt of the principal Seats of the Nobility and Gentry in the reſpective Counties of North Britain, having by the Courſe of my Tour, out of one County into another, as it was moſt convenient to me, not been able to confine myſelf to a Deſcription of any one intire County in one Place.

Principal Seats in the County of March or Merſe.

Polwarth, Earl of Marchmont's; Blackader, Sir J. Hume's; Har [...]aſs, Sir Roger Hay's; Allenbank, Sir Robert Stewart's; Niſhet, Car's of Cavers▪ Langton, Cockburn's; Mertin, Sir William Scot's; Heiſel and Hume Caſtle, Earl of Hume's; Swinton, Sir J. Swinton's; Coldenknows, Mr. Daes's.

Teviotdale or Roxburgh.

Flems, Duke of Roxburgh's; Bridgout, Sir Wil⯑liam Kerr's; Marlefield, Sir William Bennet's; Kingdale, Sir William Scot's; Ancram, Sir John Scot's; Cavers, Archibald Douglaſs's; Riddal, Sir Walter Riddal's; Wooley and Stobs, Sir Gilbert Elliot's; Branſholm, Duke of Buccleugh's, &c.

Annandale.

Weſter-hall, Sir John Johnſtoun's; Lither-hall, Mr. Ro. Johnſtann's; Lockwood, Marquis Annan⯑dale's; Applegirth, Sir John Jarden's; Kelhead, Sir William Douglaſs's; Springkell, Sir Patrick Maxwell's; Hawmains, Sir John Caruther's; Caſtle-milk, Sir John Douglaſs's; Dornoch, — Douglaſs's; Kelburn, Thomas Scot's; Erkleton, William Elliot's; Langholm, — Melvin's; Ramerſk [...]ll, T. Caruther's; Denby, Jo. Caruther's; Drumlanrig, Duke of Queenſberry's; Terecles, Earl of Nithſdale's; Cloſburn, Kilpatrick's.

Annandale and Nithſdale make up only one Shire, but are diſtinct Stewarties.

[245] Eaſt Lothian.

North Berwick, Sir Hugh Dalrymple's; Divleton, Mr. Niſbet's; Yeſter, Marquis Twedale's; Seaton and Winton, Earl of Winton's; Leith, Mr. Hey⯑burn's; Salton, Mr. Fletcher's; Elphingſton, Lord Primroſe's; Byers, Earl Hopton's; Hermiſton, Mr. Sinclair's; Hales, Sir James Dalrymple's; Liding⯑ton, Lord Blantyre's; Ormiſton, Mr. Cockburn's; Tynningham, Earl of Haddington's; Broxburn, Duke of Roxburgh's; Newbaith, Sir William Baird's; Banereeth, Lord Elibank's; Bell, Lord Beelhaven's; Spot, Lord David Hays's; Gilmerton, Sir. Fr. Kinlock's, &c.

Mid Lothian.

Holyrood-houſe, the King's; Dalkeith, Duke of Buccleugh's; Newbottle, Marquis of Lothian's; Dalhouſie, Earl of Dalhouſie's; Roſeberry, Earl of Roſeberry's; Borthwick, Sir I. Dalrymple's; Roſline, — Sinclair's; Cranſtoun, Sir I. Dalrymple's; Cranſtoun Ridel, Viſcount Oxenford's; Preſton-hall, Lord Juſtice Clerk; Smetoun, Sir Ja. Richardſon's; Royſtoun, Sir Ja. Mackenzie's; Barntoun, Earl of Rutherglen's; Elphinſtoun, Viſcount Primroſe's; Haltoun, Earl of Lauderdale's; Arniſtoun, Mr. Ro. Dundaſs's; Shank, late Mackenzie's; Pinkie, Mar⯑quis Twedele's; Addiſtoun, Mr. Gibſon's; Colling⯑toun, Sir Ja. Fowles's; Bonningtoun, Sir Ro. Cheſly's; Melvin Caſtle, Lord Roſs's; Cranſtoun, Mr. W. Maitland's; Inch, Sir Alexander Gilmore's; Prieſtfield, Sir Ja. Dick's; Wolmet, — Wallace's; Dredon, G. Lockhart's; Corſtorfin, Lord For⯑reſter's.

Weſt Lothian, or Linlithgowſhire.

Linlithgow, the King's; Cragy-hall, Marquis of Annandale's; Gogar, Sir Andrew Morton's; New⯑liſton, Earl of Stair's; Kenneil, Duke of Hamilton's; [246] Dalmeny, Earl of Roſeberrie's; Caridden, Earl of Dalhouſie's; Bineis, Sir F. Dalzeil's; Hoptoun, Earl of Hoptoun's; Blackneſs, a Gariſon.

Shire of Selkirk.

Hanging-ſhaw, — Murray's; Whitford, Robert Scot's; Newark, Lord Elibank's; Minto, Sir Gil⯑bert Elliot's.

Shire of Peebles, or Twedale.

Nidpath, Earl of March's; Traquair, Earl of Traquair's; Davick, Sir Ja. Naſemith's.

Other Seats are thoſe called; Pern, Grieſton, Cardron, Ormiſten, Horſeburgh-caſtle, Smithfield, Darlihall, Manners-caſtle, Poſ⯑ [...]-Caverhille, Barns, Drumelzier, Stenhop, Pomud, Wilkiſton, Hawkſhaw, Kinglidores, Kuttlehall, Lit⯑tlehop, Hartrey, Skirlin, Fowlege, Lower Urd, Quota, Urd Church, Halmire, Romano-Drokel. And many others.

Galloway.

Clarie, Glaſton and Garlies, Earl of Gallo⯑way's; Caſtle-Kenmure, Viſcount of Kenmure's; Caſtle-Kenedy, formerly Earl of Caſſil's, now Earl of Stair's; Dunſkey, belonging to the Adairs; Garth⯑land, to the Macdowals; Lochnaw, to the Agnews; Raveſton, Stewart's of Caſtlemilk; Sorbie, Colonel James Stewart's; Mockrum, Sir James Dunbar's; Baldon, Lady Mary Hamilton's; Crugulton, Clary, Cuthbert, Cardoneſſe, Ruſcow; and many others.

Cunningham.

The Cone, Kennedy's; Craigy, Sir T. Wallace's; Dunchanan, Sir J. Ferguſon's; Aſkins, Earl of Dundonald's; Cloſeburn, Sir T. Kilpatrick's; Gir⯑venmains, Sir T. Kennedy's; Stair, Earl of Stair's; [247] Euterkin, Cunningham's; Garthgirth, Chambers's; Capington, Sir W. Cunningham's; Adamton, Blair's; Corſby, Fullerton's; Kyle, Crawford's; Kilbirny, Lord Viſcount Garnock's.

Renfrew.

Paiſley, Earl of Dundonald's; Caſtle-Cruikſton and Inchinnen, late Duke of Lenox's; Cordonal, Lord Blantyre's; Nether-Pollock, Sir John Max⯑well's; Arſkine, Lord Blantyre's; Caſtle-Semple, Lord Semple's; Greenock, Sir J. Shaw's; Houſton, Houſton's; Stainly, Johnſton's; Finlaſton, Earl of Glencairn's; Pollock, Sir R. Pollock's; Ardgouan, Sir. A. Stewart's; and many others, beſides Ellerſly, of which was the Family of the great Wallace.

Clydſdale.

Dowglas Caſtle, Duke of Dowglas's; Hamilton, Duke of Hamilton's; Carmichael, Earl of Hynd⯑ford's Halk-head, Lord Roſſe's; Carnwarth, Mr. Lockhart's; Lee, Sir — Lockhart's; Maleſley, Mr. Carmichael's; Crawford, Earl of Selkirk's; Lamington, Mr. Baillie's; Roſehall, Sir James Ha⯑milton's Torrence, — Stewart's; Dolphing⯑ton, Mr. Brown's; &c.

Stirlingſhire.

The chief Families of this County are the Leving⯑ſtons, of whom the Earl of Callendar, a Branch of the Family of Lithgow, had a Seat nere at Callendar-Caſtle, and was hereditary Sheriff of County; and [...] [...]mings, who [...]ve their Seats at Cum⯑ [...]rr [...], which they had from King R [...] Bruce, for their noble Service in Defence of their Country; the Lord Elphinſton, who has [...]is Seat at Elphinſton-Caſtle; the Murrays, S [...], Grahams, Napers, Buchanans, Bruces, Stirlings, &c.

Other Seats here are, Bannockburn, Sir H. Pater⯑ſon's; Kilſyth, Viſcount Kilſyth's; Dunipace, Sir [248] Archibald Primroſe's; Keir, Mr. Stirling's; Pol⯑houſe, Mr. Rollo's; Herbertſhire, Mr. Stirling's; Kilearn, Mr. Graham's; Carden, Mr. Stirling's, &c.

Lenox.

Mugdock-Caſtle, Duke of Montroſe's; Roſeneath, Duke of Argyll's; Roſedue, Colquhon's; Ardin⯑caple, Mackalan's; and many others.

Argyllſhire.

Lochgaer, Sir J. Campbel's; Kilchurn, Earl of Braidalbin's; and many others of the Campbels, Macdowgals, &c.

Perthſhire.

Blair-Caſtle and Hunting-Tower, Duke of Athol's; Taymouth, Earl of Braidalbin's; Methuen, Mr. Smith's; Kincardin, Duke of Montroſe's; Duplin, Earl of Kinnoul's; Stobhall, Earl of Perth's; Machiney and Incheffrey, Viſcount Strathallan's; Scone, Viſcount Stormont's; Gaſk, Mr. Oliphant's; Balgowan, Mr. Graham's; Abercarny, Sir — Murray's; Duncrob, Lord Rollo's. Many other conſiderable Gentlemens Seats are in this County; the principal Families are the Murrays, the Hays, the Stuarts, Drummonds, Campbels, Grahams, Oli⯑phants, Ruthvens, Ogilvies, Haldens, Robertſons, Rollos, Kinnairds, Blairs, Toſchobs, Menzies, Ful⯑lertons, Nairns, Roſſes.

Clackmanan.

Alloway, late the Earl of Mar's; Kennet, Col. Bruce's; Menſtry, late Sir James Holburn's; Tilli⯑body, Abercromby's; Tillicutry, Stewart's; Saw⯑chie, Sir John Shaw's of Greenock.

Fife.

Caſtle-Leſley, Earl of Rothes's; Struthers, Earl of Crawford's; Weems, Earl of Weems's; Kelly, [249] Earl of Kelly; Abbots-hall, Sir Ant. Ramſey's; Melvil, Earl of Melvil; Cambo, Sir A. Erſkin's; Balkaſk, Sir J. Anſtruther's; Dury, Sir A. Gib⯑ſon's; Balgony, Earl of Leven; Balcarras, Earl of Balcarras; Dunniberſel, Earl of Murray; Aberdour, Earl of Morton; Ravenſhugh, Lord Sinclair; Burnt-iſland, Mackenzie's. Other Families of Note are: Lord Burleigh, Lord Lindaw, Lord Balmerinoch; alſo the Arnots, Anſtruthers, Erſkins, Beatons, Kin⯑neers, Barclays, Balcanquals, Bruces, Browns, Boſ⯑wels, Colvils, Carſtairs, Creightons, Cunninghams, Clephans, Forbes's, Gibſons, Hamiltons, Henderſons, Hackets, Hays, Hopes, Heriots, Inglis's, Kirkaldies, Kinningmounts, Lundies, Lumſdales, Monnypennys, Moncriefs, Mirtons, Macgils, Orocks, Pitcairns, Preſtons, Scots, Sibbalds, Wardlaws, and Woods.

Angus.

Dun, Erſkin's, Lord of Seſſion; Ingliſhmady, Falconer's of Newton; Hetherwick, Mr. Scot's; Burowfield, Mr. Taylor's; Fullerton, Mr. Fuller⯑ton's; Pittarow, Sir David Carnagy's; Newmans Walls, Mr. Scot's of Logy; Galro, Mr. Falconer's; Brime, Turnbull's of Stircathro; Edgeyill, Mr. Lindſay's; Old Bar, Mr. Robert Young's; Carſe, Lyon's; Morphie, Mr. Graham's; Loggy, Mr. Wiſhart's; Balmiquien, Barclay's; Kirktownhill, Ferguſon's; Grange, Mr. James Martin's; Achter⯑houſe, Mr. Patrick Lyon's; Maine, Mr. David Graham's of Fintri; Caſtle Pouri, Mr. Pouri's; Lethem, Sir James Wood's of Bonitoun; Bonitoun, Mr. Ferguſon's; Montroſe, Earl of Middleton's; Craig and Roſſie, Scot's of Roſſie; Duinald, Mr. Robert Scot's; Ulyſſes-Haven, Mr. Patrick Renny's; Glamis, Earl of Strathmore's; Panmure and Bre⯑chin, Earl of Panmure's; Kinnard, Earl of South⯑eſk's; Ethie, Earl of Northeſk's; Carriſton, Stewart's of Garntully; Fotheringham, T. Fother⯑ingham's; [250] Inverharitie, Mr. J. Ogilvie's; Blackneſs, Mr. Wedderbuin's; Craigy, Mr. Kied's.

Merns.

Halkerton, Lord Halkerton's; Arbuthnot, Viſ⯑count Arbuthnot's; Fettereſſo, Earl Marſhal's; Elſick, Sir Alexander Bannerman's; Leys, Sir Thomas Burnet's; Balmain, Sir David Ramſey's; Fetter⯑cairn, Earl of Middleton's; Glenbervy, late Sir — Dowglaſs's; Benholm, Mr. Scot's; Pittarrow, Sir James Carnagy's; Fordon, Arbuthnot's; Faſque, Sir Alexander Ramſey's; Pheſdo, Falconer's; Kirkſide, Straton's, &c.

Aberdeenſhire.

Kildrummy, late Earl of Mar's; Inverugy, Earl Marſhal's; Keith-hall, Earl of Kintore's; Pitſligo, Lord Pitſligo's; Kainburgh, Col. Buchan's; Dal⯑gety, Earl of Errol's; Aboyn, Earl of Aboyn's; Muckwall, Lord Frazer's; Pitmedden, Sir Alex⯑ander Seton's; Knockhall, Mr. Woodny's; Drum, Mr. Irwin's; Cragievar, Sir Arthur Forbes's; Tolquham, Mr. Forbes's; Monemuſk, Sir William Forbes's; Caſtle-Forbes, Lord Forbes's; Crathes, Sir Thomas Burnet's of Leyth; Frendraught, late Lord Frendraught's; Philorths, Lord Salton's; Fet⯑terneer belongs to Count Leſly in Germany; Fyvi [...], late Earl of Dumfermling's; Tyri, Mr. Frazer's; Kelly, Earl of Aberdeen's; Udoch, Mr. Symſon's.

Shire of Bamff and Buchan.

Other Seats in this County are, Cullen and Deſk⯑ford, the Earl of Finlater's; Indruer, Lord Bamff's; Craig of Boyne, Ogilvie of Boyne's; Birkenboge, Sir James Abercrombie's; Park, Sir John Gordon's; Durn, Sir James Dunbar's; Fotherglen, Sir Alex⯑ander Ogilvie's; Rothemay, Mr. Gordon's; Pit⯑tendriſh, lately Lord Oliphant's; Kinardie, Mr. Donaldſon's; Caſtle-grant, the Laird of Grant's; [251] Crombie and Bracco, Duff of Duff's; now an Iriſh Peer; Glaſshaugh, Abercromby Lord Semple's; Balendaliſh and Carron, the Laird of Grant's; Tor⯑ſken, Glengeraſk, Buſkie and Achentoul, Gordon of Gordon's; Skeith, Mr. Abercromby's; Kimminity, Sutherland of Sutherland's; Mapen, Mr. Aberne⯑thie's; Rannes, Mr. Hay's; Bognie, Moriſon's of Moriſon.

Murray and Elgin.

The chief Seats in both Shires are, Gordonſtoun, Sir Robert Gordon's; Kilravock, Mr. Roſe's; Cal⯑der, Sir — Campbel's; Lethin and Brody, Mr. Brodie's; Muirton, Sir James Calder's; Caſtle Forres, Dumbar's of Weſtfield; Caſtle-grant, Sir — Grant's; Tarnaway, Earl of Murray's; Spy⯑nie, late Biſhop of Murray's; Elgin, Duke of Gordon's; — Lord Duffo's; Innes, Sir H. Innes's.

Shire of Inverneſs.

Caſtle-Urchart, Sir Ludowick Grant's; Glengary Caſtle, Macdonald's; Dunvegan, Macleod's; Dun⯑tulm, Sir Donald Macdonald's of Slate; Dalcroſs, Mackintoſh's; Done, Lord Lovat's; Ercules, Chiſholm's of Comeris; Glenmoriſton, the Laird of Grant's; Lochyel, Sir Ewen Cameron's, &c.

Cromarty.

Cromarty Caſtle; Sir Ken. Mackenzie; Caſtle-Leod, Earl of Cromarty; New Tarbat, ditto; Caſtlehaven, ditto.

Roſs.

Fowlis-Caſtle, Monroe's; Beaulieu, Lord Lovat's; Milton, Innes; Balnagowan, Roſſe's; Brahan-Caſtle, late Earl of Seaforth's; Red-caſtle, Mr. Mac⯑kenzie's; Craig-houſe, Roſſe of Kilraock's; Inner⯑brochy, Sir William Gordon's; Pittonarchy, Mac⯑kenzie's of Scatwel, &c. Ylendonen Caſtle, the [252] King's. It has a Gariſon, and the Earl of Sea⯑forth was Hereditary Conſtable of the Caſtle.

Sutherland and Caithneſs.

The chief Families here are the Gordons, Suther⯑lands, Murrays, Mackays, Crays, Clancummins, Seil-Thomas's, Seil-Johns, Seil-Phaleys. Caſtle-Sinclair is the Seat of the Earl of Caithneſs. Earl of Braidalbin has great Eſtates in Caithneſs. The Sinclairs once poſſeſſed Orkney and Shetland, and were allied to the Royal Houſe of Denmark, as I have obſerved before. The Keiths and Mowats have Poſſeſſions in Caithneſs. Thurſe-Caſtle was a Seat that belonged to the Biſhop of Caithneſs; Dumheath is Sir W. Sinclair's of May; Scelbo, Lord Duffus's; Murkle, Earl of Caithneſs's; Hemprigs, Sir W. Dunbar's; Duren, Mr. Sinclair's, &c.

LETTER V.

I SHALL now preſent you with as brief and accurate an Account as I can give you of the Iſlands of moſt conſiderable Note, lying adjacent, or belonging to this Northern Part of the Iſland of Great Britain, beginning, firſt, with