THE LONDON COMPLETE ART OF COOKERY.
[1]DIRECTIONS FOR ROASTING.
In the firſt place, you muſt regulate your fire ac⯑cording to the Piece of meat you are to dreſs:— If it be a ſmall or thin piece, make a pretty little briſk fire; but if it be a large joint, let a very good fire be laid to cake. Take care to keep your fire always clear, and let your ſpit be very clean. When the ſteam draws near the fire, it is a ſign that the meat is done enough; but you will beſt judge of that from the time it was put down. Obſerve, that in froſty weather all kinds of meat take more time in dreſſing.
To roaſt Veniſon.
TAKE a haunch of veniſon, and when you have ſpitted it, lay over it a large ſheet of white paper, then a thin paſte with another ſheet of paper over it, and tie it well to prevent the paſte from falling. [2] About five or ſix minutes before you take it up, take off the paper and paſte, baſte it with butter, and dredge it with a little flour: when you diſh it up, let it be accompanied with ſome good gravy in one ſauceboat, and ſweet ſauce in another. If it be a large haunch, it will take three hours roaſting. The neck and ſhoulder may be dreſſed the ſame way. The ſauce for veniſon may be either cur⯑rent jelly warmed, or half a pint of red wine, with a quarter of a pound of ſugar, ſimmered over a clear fire for ſeven or eight minutes; or about half a pint of vinegar, with a proportionate quantity of ſugar, ſimmered till it becomes of the conſiſtence of a ſyrup.
To roaſt Mutton.
If it be a Chine or faddle of mutton, you muſt raiſe the ſkin, and then ſkewer it on again; for that will prevent its being ſcorched. Strip off the ſkin about a quarter of an hour before you take it up; throw ſome flour on your meat, together with a handful of ſalt, and baſte it with butter. Roaſt mut⯑ton, when ſerved up, may be accompanied with French beans, broccoli, potatoes, cauliflower, horſe⯑radiſh, or water creſſes.—N. B. Onion ſauce is frequently uſed with a ſhoulder of mutton, either roaſted or boiled.
To roaſt Mutton ſo as to make it eat like Veniſon.
Having procured a fat hind-quarter of mutton, cut the leg in the ſhape of a haunch of veniſon, lay it in a pan, and pour over it a bottle of red wine, in which it muſt lie twenty-four hours; then put it on the ſpit, and baſte it with the ſame liquor and butter all the time it is roaſting. If you have a good quick fire, your meat will be done in two hours. You may ſend it to table with ſome good gravy in one baſon, and current jelly in another.
To roaſt a Pig.
[3]Put into the belly of your pig a few ſage leaves chopped, a piece of butter, a cruſt of bread grated, and ſome pepper and ſalt; ſew it up, ſpit it, and lay it down to a large briſk fire. Flour it all over very thick, and continue to do ſo till the eyes begin to ſtart. As ſoon as you find the ſkin tight and criſp, and that the eyes are dropped, ſet two baſons in the dripping-pan, to receive the gravy that comes from it. When the pig is done enough, put a lump of butter into a cloth, and rub all over it, till the flour is quite off; then take it up into your diſh, and having cut off the head, cut the pig in two down the back; chop off the ears, and place one upon each ſhoulder; cut the under jaw in two, and lay on each ſide; melt ſome butter, put it into the gravy that came from your pig, boil it up and put it into the diſh with the brains bruiſed fine, and a little ſhred ſage; then ſend the whole to table, with bread ſauce in a baſon, and garniſh with lemon.
A Pig barbecued.
Take two or three anchovies, a few leaves of ſage, and the liver of the pig; chop them very ſmall, and put them into a marble mortar, with half a pint of red wine, ſome butter, bread-crumbs, and pepper: beat them all together to a paſte, and ſew them up in your pig's belly; then lay it down to the fire, ſinge it well, pour in the dripping pan two or three bottles of red wine, and baſte it with the wine all the time it is roaſting. When it is almoſt done, take the ſauce out of your dripping-pan, add to it one anchovy, half a lemon, and a bunch of ſweet herbs, boil theſe a few minutes, then take up your pig, put a ſmall lemon, or apple in its mouth, ſtrain your ſauce, and pour it on boiling hot; lay barberries and ſliced lemon round the pig, and ſerve it up whole.
To roaſt a Leg of Mutton with Oyſters or Cockles.
[4]Take a leg of mutton that has been butchered two or three days before, ſtuff it all over with oyſters or cockles, and roaſt it. Garniſh the diſh with horſe⯑radiſh.
To roaſt Beef.
Butter a piece of writing-paper, and faſten it with ſmall ſkewers to the top of your beef; then lay it down to a good fire, throw ſome ſalt on it, and baſte it well with good dripping. A little while before you take it up, remove the paper, dredge the meat with ſome flour, and baſte it with a piece of butter. Garniſh the diſh with ſcraped horſe-radiſh, and ſend it to table with broccoli, French beans, potatoes, horſe-radiſh, or cauliflower. When you want to keep your meat a few days before you dreſs it, you muſt dry it well with a clean cloth, then flour it all over, and hang it up in a place where the air may come to it.
To roaſt Veal.
In dreſſing a fillet or loin of veal, paper the udder of the fillet to preſerve the fat, and the back of the loin to prevent it from being ſcorched. Lay your meat at ſome diſtance from the fire till it is ſoaked, and then draw it nearer the fire; baſte it well with butter, and duſt it with a little flour. The ſtuffing for a fillet is made thus: take half a pound of ſuet, about a pound of grated bread, ſome parſley, thyme, ſweet marjoram, and ſavory, a piece of lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, and ſalt, and mix them up together with the yolks and whites of a few eggs.
A breaſt of veal muſt be roaſted with the caul on, and the ſweet-bread ſkewered on the back-ſide: when it is almoſt done, take off the caul, and baſte it with butter and a little flour.
To roaſt Lamb.
[5]When you lay it down, baſte it well with freſh butter, and ſcatter on it a very little flour; then baſte it with what drips from it; and juſt before you take it up, ſprinkle on a little ſalt and chopped par⯑ſley, and baſte it again with butter. You may ſerve it up with mint ſauce, green peaſe, a ſallad, cauli⯑flower, or French-beans.
To roaſt a Leg of Lamb with Forcemeat.
Take a large leg of lamb, and with a ſharp knife cut off all the meat, leaving the ſkin whole with the fat on it: then chop the meat ſmall with half a pound of beef ſuet, ſome marrow, a few oyſters, an onion, an anchovy, ſome ſweet herbs, lemon-peel, mace, and nutmeg; and having beat all theſe toge⯑ther in a mortar, ſtuff the ſkin with them, ſew it up, rub it with the yolks of eggs, ſpit it, flour it all over, lay it down to the fire, and baſte it well with but⯑ter: when done, pour ſome nice gravy into the diſh, and ſend it up.
To roaſt Pork.
In roaſting a loin of pork, you muſt cut the ſkin acroſs in ſmall ſtreaks, and take care that it be joint⯑ed before you lay it down; it is ſometimes ſerved up with onions.—A ſparerib ſhould be roaſted before a clear fire, and baſted with a ſmall piece of butter, a little flour, and ſome ſage ſhred fine: ſend it up with apple ſauce.—The knuckle of a roaſt leg of pork is frequently ſtuffed with ſage and onion chopped ſmall, with a little pepper and ſalt, and eat with gra⯑vy and apple ſauce. But the beſt way of roaſting a leg is as follows: firſt parboil it, then ſkin it and lay it down, and baſte it with butter; take a little ſage ſhred fine, a few crumbs of bread, ſome nutmeg, pepper and ſalt; mix theſe together, and ſtrew them over your meat white it is roaſting: ſend up ſome [6] gravy in the diſh, and ſerve it up with apple-ſauce and potatoes. A griſkin may be dreſſed in the ſame manner.—N. B. Pork muſt be well done, otherwiſe it is apt to ſurfeit.
To roaſt a Tongue.
You muſt parboil it firſt, then roaſt it; baſte it well with butter, ſtick ten or twelve cloves about it, and ſend it to table with ſome gravy and ſweet ſauce. —N. B. An udder dreſſed the ſame way is very good eating.
To dreſs a pickled Neat's Tongue.
Having firſt ſoaked it, boil it till the ſkin will peel off, then ſtick it with cloves, put it on the ſpit, wrap a veal caul over it, and roaſt it till it is enough; af⯑ter which you muſt take off the caul, and ſerve up your tongue with gravy in the diſh, and ſome veni⯑ſon ſauce in a boat. Garniſh with raſpings of bread and ſliced lemon.
To roaſt a Calf's Liver.
Lard it with bacon, faſten it on the ſpit, and roaſt it with a gentle fire: ſend it to table with good veal gravy, or melted butter.
To roaſt Rabbits.
Having truſſed your rabbits, put them down to a quick clear fire, dredge them, baſte them well with butter, and roaſt them near three quarters of an hour: boil the livers with a bunch of parſley, and chop them very fine; then melt ſome good butter, put into it half the liver and parſley, and pour it in the diſh; garniſh with the other half. The French ſauce for rabbits conſiſts of onions minced ſmall, fried, and mixed up with pepper and muſtard.— Some people put a pudding in a rabbit's belly, when they roaſt it.
To roaſt a Hare.
[7]Stuff your hare with a pudding made thus: take ſome crumbs of bread, a quarter of a pound of beef⯑ſuet minced fine, the hare's liver parboiled and chopped ſmall, ſome butter, two or three eggs, one anchovy, a little lemon-peel, parſley, thyme, nut⯑meg, pepper and ſalt; mix theſe ſeveral ingredients together, and put them into the belly of your hare, and then roaſt it. Put about three pints of milk and half a pound of freſh butter into your dripping-pan, which ought to be very clean: baſte the hare with this all the while it is roaſting; and when it has ſoaked up all the butter and milk it will be done enough. Serve it up with melted butter and cream, currant jelly, gravy, or claret ſauce.
Another Way of roaſting a Hare.
Take a piece of fat bacon, ſome bread-crombs, the liver of the hare, an anchovy, a ſhalot, ſome nut⯑meg and winter-ſavory, chop theſe fine, beat them up to a paſte, and put them into the hare; then lay it down to the fire, baſte it with ſtale beer, put a ſmall piece of bacon in the dripping-pan, and when it is half roaſted, baſte it with butter: ſend it to ta⯑ble with melted butter and ſavory.
To roaſt a Turkey, Gooſe, Duck, Fowl, &c.
When you roaſt a turkey, gooſe, fowl, or chicken, lay them down to a good fire; ſinge them clean with white paper, baſte them with butter, and duſt on ſome flour. As to time, a large turkey will take an hour and twenty minutes, a middling one a full hour; a full-grown gooſe, if young, an hour; a large fowl three quarters of an hour, a middling one half an hour, and a ſmall chicken twenty mi⯑nutes; but this depends entirely on the goodneſs of your fire.
[8] When your fowls are thoroughly plump, and the ſmoke draws from the breaſt to the fire, you may be ſure that they are very near done. Then baſte them with butter; duſt on a very little flour, and as ſoon as they have a good froth, ſerve them up.
Geeſe and ducks are commonly ſeaſoned with onions, ſage, and a little pepper and ſalt.
A turkey, when roaſted, is generally ſtuffed in the craw with force-meat, or the following ſtuffing: Take a pound of veal, as much grated bread, half a pound of ſuet cut and beat very fine, a little parſley, with a ſmall matter of thyme, or ſavory, two cloves, half a nutmeg grated, a tea-ſpoonful of ſhred lemon-peel, a little pepper and ſalt, and the yolke of two eggs.
Sauce for a Turkey. Good gravy in a boat; and either bread, onion, or oyſter ſauce in a baſon.
For a Gooſe. A little good gravy in a boat, apple ſauce in a baſon, and muſtard.
For a Duck. A little gravy in the diſh, and onions in a tea cup.
For Fowls. Parſley and butter; or gravy in the diſh, and either bread ſauce, oyſter ſauce, or egg⯑ſauce in a baſon.
To roaſt a green Gooſe with green Sauce.
Roaſt your gooſe nicely; in the mean time make your ſauce thus; take half a pint of the juice of ſorrel, a ſpoonful of white wine, a little grated nut⯑meg, and ſome grated bread; boil this over a gentle fire, and ſweeten it with pounded ſugar to your taſte; let your gooſe have a good froth on it before you take it up; put ſome good ſtrong gravy in the diſh, and the ſame in a boat. Garniſh with lemon.
To roaſt Pigeons.
Take a little pepper and ſalt, a ſmall piece of but⯑ter, and ſome parſley cut ſmall; mix theſe together, [9] put them into the bellies of your pigeons, tying the neck end tight; take another ſtring, faſten one end of it to their legs and rumps, and the other to the mantle-piece. Keep them conſtantly turning round, and baſte them with butter. When they are done, take them up, lay them in a diſh, and they will ſwim with gravy.
To roaſt Larks.
Truſs your larks with the legs acroſs, and put a ſage leaf over the breaſt; put them upon a long fine ſkewer, and between every lark a little piece of thin bacon; then tie the ſkewer to a ſpit, and roaſt them at a quick, clear fire, baſte them with butter, and ſtrew over them ſome crumbs of bread mixed with flour; fry ſome bread crumbs of a nice brown, in a bit of butter; lay your larks round in your diſh, the bread crumbs in the middle, with ſliced orange for garniſh. Send good gravy in a boat.
To roaſt a Fowl or Turkey with Cheſnuts.
Take a quarter of a hundred cheſnuts, roaſt and peel them; bruiſe about a dozen of them in a mor⯑tar, with the liver of the fowl, a quarter of a pound of ham, and ſome ſweet herbs; mix theſe together with ſome mace, pepper, ſalt, and nutmeg, and having put them into your fowl, ſpit and roaſt it, and baſte it with butter. For ſauce take the reſt of the cheſnuts, chop them ſmall, and put them into ſome ſtrong gravy, with a glaſs of white wine, and a piece of butter rolled in flour: pour the ſauce in the diſh, and garniſh with water-creſſes and ſliced orange.
To roaſt Wild Ducks; Widgeons, or Teal.
If your fire be very good and briſk, a teal, wild duck, or widgeon, will be done in a quarter of an hour. The following ſauce will ſuit all kinds of [10] wild fowl: take a ſufficient quantity of veal-gravy, ſeaſon it with pepper and ſalt, ſqueeze in a little claret and the juice of two oranges.
To roaſt Pheaſanis or Partridges.
Lay them down at a good diſtance from the fire, dredge them, and baſte them with nice butter, that they may go to table with a fine froth: they will take twenty minutes or half an hour roaſting: when you diſh them up, let there be ſome gravy in the diſh, and bread or celery ſauce in a boat. Garniſh with ſlices of orange or lemon.
N. B. You may, if you pleaſe, lard turkies, par⯑tridges, pheaſants, larks, ortolans, &c. when you roaſt them.
To roaſt Snipes or Woodcocks.
Truſs your ſnipes, and put them on a ſmall bird⯑ſpit; dredge them, and baſte them well with but⯑ter: have ready a ſlice of bread toaſted brown, which muſt be laid in a diſh, and ſet under the birds while they are roaſting. They will take a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. When they are done, take them up, and lay them on the toaſt; pour ſome beef-gravy and melted butter in the diſh, and garniſh with orange or lemon.
N. B. You need not draw a woodcock or ſnipe when you roaſt it.
To roaſt Quails.
Let them be ſtuffed with beef-ſuet and ſweet herbs chopped and ſeaſoned with a little ſpice; ſpit them, and when they begin to grow warm, baſte them with ſalt and water; then flour them, and baſte them with a little butter. Mean⯑while diſſolve an anchovy in good gravy, with two or three ſhalots chopped ſmall, and the juice [11] of a Seville orange; diſh up your quails in this ſauce, and garniſh with lemon and fried bread-crumbs.
To roaſt Plovers.
Green plovers are roaſted as you do woodcocks: Lay them upon a toaſt, and put good gravy ſauce in the diſh. Grey plovers are roaſted, or ſtewed, thus: Make a force-meat of artichoke bottoms cut ſmall, ſeaſoned with pepper, ſalt, and nutmeg: ſtuff the bellies, and put the birds into a ſaucepan, with good gravy juſt to cover them, a glaſs of white wine, and a blade of mace; cover them cloſe, and ſtew them ſoftly till they are tender; then take up your plovers into the diſh; put in a piece of but⯑ter rolled in flour, to thicken your ſauce; let it boil till ſmooth; ſqueeze in it a little lemon; ſcum it clean, and pour it over the birds. Garniſh with orange.
Of FISH.
To roaſt a Cod's Head.
Waſh and ſcour the head very clean, ſcotch it with a knife, ſtrew a little ſalt on it, and lay it before the fire; throw away the water that runs from it the firſt half hour, then ſtrew on it ſome nutmeg, cloves, mace, and ſalt, and baſte it often with butter. Take all the gravy of the fiſh, white wine, and meat gravy, ſome horſe-radiſh, ſhalots, whole pepper, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and a bay leaf or two; boil this li⯑quor up with butter, and the liver of the fiſh boiled, broke and ſtrained into it. with the yolks of two or three eggs, oyſters, ſhrimps, and balls made of fiſh; put fryed fiſh round it. Garniſh with lemon and horſe radiſh.
To roaſt a Lobſter.
[2]Firſt parboil your lobſter, then rub it well with butter, and ſet it before the fire; baſte it all over till the ſhell looks of a dark brown colour, and ſerve it up with melted butter in a baſon.
To roaſt a Pike.
Take a large pike, gut it, clean it, and lard it with eel and bacon, as you lard a fowl; then take thyme, ſavory, ſalt, mace, nutmeg, ſome crumbs of bread, beef ſuet, and parſley, all ſhred very fine, and mix it up with raw eggs; make it into a long pudding, and put it into the belly of your pike; ſew up the belly, and diſſolve three anchovies in butter to baſte it with; put two laths on each ſide the pike, and tie it to the ſpit; melt butter thick for the ſauce; (or, if you pleaſe, oyſter-ſauce) and bruiſe the pudding into it. Then garniſh with lemon.
To roaſt an Eel.
Scour the eel well with ſalt; ſkin him almoſt to the tail: then gut, waſh, and dry him; take a quarter of a pound of ſuet ſhred as fine as poſſible, ſweet herbs, and a ſhalot, and mix them together with ſalt, pepper, and nutmeg; ſcotch your eel on both ſides, waſh it with yolks of eggs, lay ſome ſea⯑ſoning over it, ſtuff the belly with it, then draw the ſkin over it, and tie it to the ſpit; baſte it with butter, and make the ſauce of anchovies, and butter, melted.
Any other river or ſea fiſh, that are large enough, may be dreſſed in the ſame manner.
To roaſt Sturgeon.
[13]Take a piece of freſh ſturgeon, let it lie ſix or eight hours in water and ſalt; then ſpit and lay it down, baſte it with flour and butter, ſtrew over it ſome grated nutmeg, a little beaten mace, pepper, and ſalt, a few crumbs of bread, and ſome ſweet herbs powdered fine. When your ſturgeon is done diſh it up, and garniſh with ſlices of lemon. For ſauce, take a pint of water, a bit of lemon-peel, an onion, an anchovy, a bunch of ſweet herbs, ſome horſe radiſh, mace, cloves, and whole pepper; let this mixture boil a quarter of an hour, then ſtrain it, put it again into the ſaucepan, with a pint of white wine, a few oyſters, the inſide of a crab or lobſter bruiſed fine, two or three ſpoonfuls of catchup and walnut pickle, and a lump of butter rolled in flour; boil the whole up together, and pour it over the fiſh.
DIRECTIONS FOR BOILING.
Be ſure that your pots and covers are well tin'd, very clean, and free from ſand.—Mind that your pot really boils all the while, elſe you will be diſappointed in dreſſing any joint, though it has been a proper time over the fire. Freſh meat muſt be put in when the water boils, and ſalt meat whilſt it is cold. Take care likewiſe to have ſufficient room and water in the pot, and allow a quarter of an hour to every pound of meat, let it weigh more or leſs.
To boil a Leg of Pork.
A Leg of pork muſt lie in ſalt ſix or ſeven days; after which put it into the pot to be boiled, without uſing any means to freſhen it. It requires much water to ſwim in over the fire, and alſo to be [14] fully boiled; ſo that care ſhould be taken, that the fire does not ſlacken while it is dreſſing. Serve it up with peaſe-pudding, melted butter, muſtard, butter'd turnips, carrots, or greens.
To boil Pickled Pork.
Waſh the pork, and ſcrape it clean. Put it in when the water is cold, and boil it till the rind be tender. It is to be ſerved up always with boiled greens, and is commonly a ſauce of itſelf to roaſted fowls or veal.
To boil a Ham.
A ham requires a deal of water, therefore put it into the copper cold, and let it only ſimmer for about two hours, and allow a full quarter of an hour to every pound of ham; by this means your ham will eat tender and well.
A dry ham ſhould be ſoaked in water over night; a green ham does not require ſoaking. Take care they are well cleanſed before you dreſs them.
Before you ſend a ham to table take off the rind, and ſprinkle it over with bread crumbs, and put it in an oven for a quarter of an hour: or you may criſp it with a hot ſalamander.
To boil Beef or Mutton.
When your meat is put in, and the pot boils, take care to ſkim it very clean, otherwiſe the ſcum will boil down, ſtick to your meat, and make it look black. Send up your diſh with turnips, greens, potatoes, or carrots. If it is a leg or loin of mutton you may alſo put melted butter and capers in a boat.
To boil Lamb.
A leg of lamb of five pounds will not be boiled in leſs than an hour and a quarter; and if, as it ought to be, it is boiled in a good deal of water, and your pot be kept clean ſkimmed, you may diſh it up as white as a curd. Send it to table with ſtewed ſpinach, and melted butter in a boat.
To boil Veal.
[15]Let the pot boil, and have a good fire when you put in the meat; be ſure to ſcum it very clean. A knuckle of veal will take more boiling in proportion to its weight than any other joint, becauſe the beauty is to have all the griſtles ſoft and tender.
You may either ſend up boiled veal with parſley and butter, or with greens and bacon.
To boil a Calf's Head.
The head muſt be picked very clean, and ſoaked in a large pan of water a conſiderable time before it be put into the pot. Tie the brains up in a cloth, and put them into the pot at the ſame time with the head; ſkim the pot well; then put in a piece of bacon, in proportion to the number of people to eat thereof. You will find it to be enough by the tenderneſs of the fleſh about that part that joined to the neck. When enough, you may grill it before the fire, or ſerve it up with melted butter, bacon, and greens, and with the Brains maſhed and beat up with a little butter, ſalt, pepper, vinegar, or lemon, ſage, and parſley, in a ſeparate plate; and the tongue ſlit and laid on the ſame plate; or ſerve the brains whole, and the tongue ſlit down the middle.
To boil a Turkey, Fowl, Gooſe, Duck, &c.
Poultry are beſt boiled by themſelves, and in a good deal of water; ſkim your pot clean, and you need not be afraid of their going to table of a bad colour. A large turkey, with a force-meat in his craw, will take two hours; one without, an hour and a half; a hen-turkey, three quarters of an hour; a large fowl, forty minutes; a ſmall one, half an hour; a large chicken, twenty minutes; and a ſmall one, a quarter of an hour. A full-grown gooſe, ſalted, an hour and a half; a large duck, near an hour.
Sauce for a boiled Turkey. Take a little water, a bit of thyme, an onion, a blade of mace, a little lemon-peel, and an anchovy; boil theſe together, [16] and ſtrain them through a ſieve, adding a little melted butter. Fry a few ſauſages to lay round the diſh, and garniſh with lemon.—Or, white oyſter⯑ſauce.
Sauce for a Fowl. Parſley and butter; or, white oyſter-ſauce.
Sauce for a Gooſe. Onions or cabbage, firſt boiled and then ſtewed in butter for a few minutes.
Sauce for a Duck. They ſhould be ſmothered with onions.
To boil Rabbits.
Truſs your rabbits cloſe, and boil them off white. For ſauce, take the livers, which, when boiled, bruiſe with a ſpoon very fine, and take out all the ſtrings; put to this ſome good veal broth, a little parſley ſhred fine, and ſome barberries clean picked from the ſtalks: ſeaſon it with mace and nutmeg; thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a little white wine: Let your ſauce be of a good thickneſs, and pour it over your rabbits. Garniſh with lemons and barberries.
To boil Rabbits with Onions.
Truſs your rabbits ſhort, with their heads turned over their ſhoulders; let them be boiled off very white; boil ſome large onions in a good deal of water, till they are very tender; put them into a cullender, and when drained, paſs them through it with a good deal of butter, a little ſalt, and a gill of cream; ſtir them over the fire till they are of a good thickneſs; then diſh up your rabbits, and pour the onions over them.—Garniſh with lemon and raw parſley.
OF FISH.
To boil Salmon.
Let it be well ſcraped and cleanſed from ſcales and blood; and after it has lain about an hour in ſalt and ſpring water, put it into a fiſh-kettle, with a [17] proportionate quantity of ſalt and horſe-radiſh, and a bunch of ſweet herbs. Put it in while the water is lukewarm, and boil it gently till it is enough; or about half an hour, if it be thick; or twenty minutes if a ſmall piece. Pour off the water, dry it well, and diſh it neatly on a fiſh plate, in the centre, and garniſh the diſh with horſe-radiſh ſcraped (as is done for roaſt beef) or with fried ſmelts or gudgeons, and with ſlices of lemon round the rim.
The ſauce to be melted butter, with and without anchovy, or ſhrimp and lobſter ſauce in different baſons.
To boil a Turbot.
A turbot ought to be put into pump water, with ſalt and vinegar, for two hours before it is dreſſed. In the mean time put a ſufficiency of water into the fiſh-kettle, with a ſtick of horſe-radiſh ſliced, a hand⯑ful of ſalt, and a faggot of ſweet herbs. When the water taſtes of the ſeaſoning, take it off the fire, and let it cool a little, to prevent the fiſh from breaking. Put a handful of ſalt in the mouth and belly of the turbot, put it into the kettle, and boil it gently. A middling turbot will take about twenty minutes.
When it is enough, drain it a little; lay it upon a diſh ſufficiently large, and garniſh with fried ſmelts, ſliced bacon, ſcraped horſe-radiſh, and bar⯑berries.
Sauce. Lobſter ſauce, anchovy ſauce, and plain butter, in ſeparate baſons.
To boil a Cod.
Gut and waſh the fiſh very clean inſide and out, and rub the back-bone with a handful of ſalt; put it upon a fiſh plate, and boil it gently till it is enough; and remember always to boil the liver along with it. Garniſh with ſcraped horſe-radiſh, ſmall fried fiſh, and ſliced lemon.
Sauce. Oyſter ſauce, ſhrimp ſauce, or lobſter ſauce, with plain melted butter, in different boats, and muſtard.
To boil a Cod's Head.
[18]After tying your cod's head round with pack-thread, to keep it from flying, put a fiſh kettle on the fire, large enough to cover it with water; put in ſome ſalt, a little vinegar, and ſome horſe-radiſh ſliced; when the water boils, lay your fiſh upon a drainer, and put it into the kettle; let it boil gently till it riſes to the ſurface of the water, which it will do if your kettle is large enough; then take it out and ſet it to drain; ſlide it carefully off your drainer into your fiſh plate. Garniſh with lemon and horſe-radiſh ſcraped.
Have oyſter ſauce in one baſon, and ſhrimp ſauce in another.
To boil Scate.
Great care muſt be taken in cleanſing this fiſh; and as it is commonly too large to be boiled in a pan at once, the beſt way is to cut it into long ſlips, croſs ways, about an inch broad, and throw it into ſalt and water; and if the water boils quick it will be enough in three minutes. Drain it well, and ſerve it up with butter and muſtard in one baſon, and anchovy or ſoy ſauce in another.
You may, if you pleaſe, place ſpitch cocked eels round about the ſcate.
To boil Plaice and Flounders.
Let the pan boil, throw ſome ſalt into the water, then put in the fiſh; and (being boiled enough) take it out with a ſlice, and drain it well. Serve it up with horſe-radiſh and boiled parſley, to garniſh the edges of the diſh; and with a baſon of butter melted plain, and anchovy ſauce; or butter melted with a little catchup or ſoy.
To boil Carp.
Take a brace of large carp, ſcale them, and ſlit the tails let them bleed into about half a pint of red [19] fine, with half a nutmeg grated (keep it ſtirring, or the blood will congeal;) then gut and waſh them very clean; boil the roes firſt, and then the carp, as you would do any other fiſh, then fry them; fry ſome ſippets cut corner ways; and laſtly, dip ſome large oyſters in butter, and fry them alſo, of a fine brown.
For the ſauce, take two anchovies, a piece of le⯑mon-peel, a little horſe-radiſh, and a bit of onion; boil theſe in water till the anchovies are waſted: ſtrain the liquor into a clean ſaucepan, and, as you like it, add oyſters ſtewed, a lobſter cut ſmall (without the [...]pawn) craw fiſh, or ſhrimps; ſet it over the fire, and let it boil; then take near a pound of butter, roll a good piece in flour, put it into your ſaucepan with the liquor, with what other ingredients you intend, and boil all together, till it is of a good thickneſs; then pour in the wine and the blood, and ſhake it about, letting it only ſimmer. Take up the fiſh, put them into a diſh, and pour the ſauce over them.
Garniſh your diſh with fried oyſters, horſe-radiſh, fried parſley, and lemon: ſtick the ſippets about the fiſh, and lay the roe, ſome on the fiſh, and the reſt on the diſh; ſend it to table as hot as you can.
To boil Mackarel.
Having cleanſed the mackarel very well, and ſoaked them for ſome time in ſpring water, put them and the roes into a ſtewpan, with as much water as will cover them, and a little ſalt. Boil a ſmall bunch of fennel along with them, and when you ſend them up, garniſh with the roes, and the fennel ſhred fine.
Sauce. Grated ſugar in a ſaucer; melted but⯑ter, and green gooſeberries boiled, in different ba⯑ſons; or, parſley and butter, with a little vinegar and lemon.
To boil Eels, &c.
Having ſkinned and waſhed your eels, and cut off the back fins with a pair of ſciſſars, roll them round [20] with the heads innermoſt, and run a ſtrong ſkewer through them. Put them into a ſtew-pan, with a ſufficient quantity of water, and a little vinegar and ſalt. Garniſh with ſliced lemon.
Sauce. Parſley and butter.
To boil a Pike.
Gut and clean your pike very well with ſalt and water, faſten the tail in the mouth with a ſkewer, then put it into the ſtew-pan, with as much water as will cover it, a little vinegar and ſalt, and a piece of horſe-radiſh ſliced. Garniſh with lemon and ſcraped horſe-radiſh.
Sauce. Anchovy, ſhrimp, or ſoy ſauce; or melted butter and catchup.
To dreſs a Turtle.
Fill a boiler or kettle with a quantity of water ſufficient to ſcald the callapach and callapee, the fins, &c. And about nine o'clock hang up your turtle by the hind fins, cut off its head, and ſave the blood; then with a ſharp-pointed knife ſeparate the calla⯑pach from the callapee (or the back from the belly part) down to the ſhoulders, ſo as to come at the entrails, which take out, and clean as you would thoſe of any other animal, and throw them into a tub of clean water, taking great care not to break the gall, but to cut it from the liver, and throw it away. Then ſeparate each diſtinctly, and put the guts into another veſſel, open them with a ſmall penknife, from end to end, waſh them clean, and draw them through a woollen cloth in warm water, to clear away the ſlime, and then put them into clean cold water till they are uſed, with the other part of the entrails, which muſt all be cut up ſmall, to be mixed in the baking diſhes with the meat. This done, ſeparate the back and belly pieces en⯑tirely, cutting away the four fins by the upper joint, which ſcald, peel off the looſe ſkin, and cut them into ſmall pieces, laying them by themſelves, [21] either in another veſſel, or on the table ready to be ſeaſoned. Then cut off the meat from the belly [...]art, and clean the back from the lungs, kidneys, [...] and that meat cut into pieces as ſmall as a wal⯑ [...]ut, laying it likewiſe by itſelf. After this you are [...] ſcald the back and belly pieces, pulling off the [...]ell from the back, and the yellow ſkin from the belly, when all will be white and clean; and with the kitchen cleaver cut thoſe up likewiſe into pieces about the bigneſs or breadth of a card. Put theſe pieces into clean cold water, waſh them out, and place them in a heap on the table, ſo that each part [...]ay lie by itſelf.
The meat, being thus prepared and laid ſeparate, or ſeaſoning, mix two third parts of ſalt, or rather more, and one-third part of Cayenne pepper, black pepper, and a nutmeg and mace pounded fine, and mixed together; the quantity to be proportioned to the ſize of the turtle, ſo that in each diſh there may be about three ſpoonfuls of ſeaſoning to every twelve pounds of meat.
Your meat being thus ſeaſoned, get ſome ſweet herbs, ſuch as thyme, ſavory, &c. let them be dried and rubbed fine, and having provided ſome deep diſhes to bake it in, (which ſhould be of the com⯑mon brown ware) put in the coarſeſt part of the meat at the bottom, with about a quarter of a pound of butter in each diſh, and then ſome of each of the ſeveral parcels of meat, ſo that the diſhes may be all alike, and have equal portions of the different parts of the turtle; and between each laying of the meat, ſtrew a little of the mixture of ſweet herbs, all your diſhes within an inch and a half, or two inches of the top; boil the blood of the turtle, and put into it; then lay on force-meat balls made of veal, or fowl, highly ſeaſoned with the ſame ſeaſon⯑ing as the turtle; put in each diſh a gill of good Madeira wine, and as much water as it will conve⯑niently hold; then break over it five or ſix eggs, [22] to keep the meat from ſcorching at the top, and over that ſhake a handful of ſhred parſley, to make it look green; when done put your diſhes into and oven made not to make bread, and in an hour and a half, or two hours (according to the ſize of your diſhes) it will be ſufficiently done.
GARDEN STUFF.
In dreſſing all kinds of vegetables, the cook muſt be particularly careful that they are properly clean⯑ſed before they are put into the pot. To effect this, take off the outer leaves, and ſuch as have received injury by the weather: then examine the inner leaves with great nicety, that there be no ſmall ſnails or catterpillars between them, which is frequently the caſe, particularly in cabbages and ſavoys.— When you have done this, waſh them well in a pail or pan of water, and put them in a cullender to drain. Before you put your water that is to boil them into the ſaucepan, examine the veſſel carefully that it be clean, and free from ſand or greaſe. You muſt likewiſe be very attentive to the time of their boiling, for if they are done too much they will be ſpoiled. All greens ſhould have a little criſpneſs, which will not be the caſe if they are over-boiled; neither will they look ſo well, or eat ſo ſweet as when properly done.
To boil Aſparagus.
Firſt cut the white ends off about ſix inches from the head, and ſcrape them from the green part downward very clean. As you ſcrape them, throw them into a pan of clean water; and, after a little ſoaking, tie them up in ſmall even bundles. When your water boils, put them in, and boil them up quick; but by over-boiling they will loſe their heads. Cut a ſlice of bread for a toaſt, and bake it brown on both ſides. When your graſs is done, take them up carefuily; dip the toaſt in the aſparagus water, and lay [23] it in the bottom of your diſh; then lay the heads of [...]he aſparagus on it with the white ends outwards; [...]our a little melted butter over the heads; cut an, orange into ſmall quarters, and ſtick them between or garniſh.
To boil Artichokes.
Wring off the ſtalks cloſe to the artichokes: [...]hrow them into water, and waſh them clean; then put them into a pot or ſaucepan. They will take better than an hour after the water boils; but the beſt way is to take out a leaf, and if it draws eaſy, they are enough. Send them to table with butter in tea-cups between each artichoke.
To boil Cauliflowers.
A cauliflower is the moſt favorite plant in the kitchen garden amongſt the generality of people. Take off all the green part, and cut the flower cloſe [...]t the bottom from the ſtalk; and if it be large or dirty, cut it into four quarters, that it may lay better in the pan, and be thoroughly cleanſed. Let [...]t ſoak an hour, if poſſible, in clean water, and then put it into boiling milk and water (if you have any milk) or water only, and ſkim the pan very well. When the flower or ſtalks left above it feel tender, it will be enough; but it muſt be taken up before it [...]oſes its criſpneſs; for cauliflower is good for nothing [...]hat boils till it becomes quite ſoft. When enough, [...]ay it to drain in a cullender for a minute or two, and ſerve it up in a diſh by itſelf, and with melted butter in a baſon.
To boil Carrots.
Scrape them very clean, and when they are enough [...]ub them in a clean cloth, then ſlice them into a plate, and pour ſome melted butter over them. If they are young ſpring carrots, half an hour will boil them; if large, an hour; but old Sandwich carrot [...] will take two hours.
To boil Sprouts.
[24]Pick and waſh your ſprouts very clean, and ſee there are no ſnails or grubs between the leaves, cut them acroſs the ſtem, but not the heart; after they are well waſhed, take them out of the water to drain; when your water boils, put in ſome ſalt, and then the ſprouts, with a little more ſalt on them; make them boil quick, and if any ſcum ariſes, take it clean off. As ſoon as the ſtalks are tender, ſtrain them off, or they will not only loſe their colour, but likewiſe their flavour.
To boil Spinach.
There is no herb requires more care in the waſh⯑ing than ſpinach; you muſt carefully pick it leaf by leaf, take off all the ſtalks, and waſh it in three or four waters; then put it in a cullender to drain. It does not require much water to dreſs it: half a pint in a ſaucepan that holds two quarts, will dreſs as much ſpinach as is generally wanted for a ſmall family. When your water boils, put in your ſpi⯑nach, with a ſmall handful of ſalt, preſſing it down with a ſpoon, as you put it into the ſaucepan; let it boil quick, and as ſoon as tender, put it into a ſieve, or cullender, and preſs out all the water. When you ſend it to table, raiſe it up with a fork, that it may lie hollow in the diſh.
To boil French Beans.
Take your beans and ſtring them; cut them in two, and then acroſs: when you have done them all, ſprinkle them over with ſalt, and ſtir them together. As ſoon as your water boils, put them in, ſalt and all; make them boil up quick. They will be ſoon done, and look of a better green than when growing in the garden. If they are very young only take off the ends, break them in two, and dreſs them in the ſame manner.
Of BROILING.
[25]Of POULTRY.
To broil Pigeons.
PUT a bit of butter, ſome ſhred parſley, and a lit⯑tle pepper and ſalt into the bellies of your pige⯑ons, and tie them up neck and vent. Set your grid⯑iron high, that they may not burn, and ſend them up with a little melted butter in a cup. You may ſplit them, and broil them with a little pepper and ſalt; or you may roaſt them, and ſerve them up with a little parſley and butter in a boat.
To broil Chickens.
Slit them down the back, and ſeaſon them with pepper and ſalt, lay them at a great diſtance, on a very clear fire. Let the inſide lie downward, till they are above half done: then turn them, and take great care the fleſhy ſide does not burn; throw over them ſome fine raſpings of bread, and let them be of a fine brown, but not burnt. Let your ſauce be good gravy with muſhrooms, and garniſh with lemon and the livers broiled, the gizzards cut, ſlaſhed, and broiled with pepper and ſalt.
To broil Eggs.
Firſt put your ſalamander into the fire, them cut a ſlice round a quartern loaf, toaſt it brown, and butter it, lay it in the diſh, and ſet it before the fire; poach ſeven eggs, juſt enough to ſet the [26] whites, take them out carefully, and lay them on your toaſt; brown them with the ſalamander, grate ſome nutmeg over them, and ſqueeze Seville orange over all. Garniſh your diſh with orange cut in ſlices.
Of FISH.
To broil Cod.
Firſt dry it well with a cloth, then ſtrew ſome flour on it, and when your fire is quite clear, lay it on the gridiron, and broil it till it is of a fine brown. For ſauce, take good melted butter, with the body of a lobſter bruiſed therein; cut the meat of the lobſter very ſmall, put all together in the melted butter, make it hot, and pour it into the diſh, or into baſons. Garniſh with horſe-radiſh and lemon.
To broil Whitings.
Let them be firſt waſhed with ſome ſalt and water, then dry them well and flour them. Rub the gridiron well with chalk, to prevent their ſticking, and let it be quite hot before you lay them on. When they are done, ſerve them with oyſter or ſhrimp ſauce. Garniſh your diſh with ſliced lemon.
To broil Haddocks.
Scale them, gut and waſh them clean, but do not rip open their bellies; take the guts out with the gills, and dry them well in a clean cloth.— If there be any roe or liver, take it out, but put it in again; flour them well, and have a good clear fire. Let your gridiron be hot and clean, lay them on, turn them quick two or three times, for fear of ſticking; then let one ſide be enough, and turn the other. When that is done, lay them [27] in a diſh, and ſerve them up with melted butter and a little catchup.
To broil Eels.
Take a large eel, ſkin it and make it clean.— Open the belly, cut it in four pieces, take the tail and, ſtrip off the fleſh, beat it in a mortar, ſeaſon [...] with a little beaten mace, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and ſalt, a little parſley and thyme, a little lemon-peel, and an equal quantity of crumbs of bread; roll it in a little piece of butter, then mix [...] again with the yolk of an egg; roll it up again, and fill the three pieces of belly with it. Cut the ſkin of the eel, wrap the pieces in, and ſew up the ſkin. Broil them well, and have butter and an anchovy for ſauce, with a piece of lemon.
To broil Mackarel.
Firſt take off their heads, then gut them and waſh them clean; pull out the roe at the neck end. Boil it in a little water, and then bruiſe it with a spoon: beat up the yolk of an egg with a little nutmeg, a little lemon-peel cut fine, a little thyme, some parſley boiled and chopped very fine, a little pepper and ſalt, and a few crumbs of bread. Mix theſe all well together, put it into the body of the mackarel; then flour it well, and broil it gently all it is enough. Let your ſauce be plain butter, butter with anchovy or walnut-pickle.
To ſpitchcock Eels.
You muſt ſplit a large eel down the back, and [...] the bones, cut it in two or three pieces, melt a little butter, put in a little vinegar and ſalt, [...] your eel lay in it two or three minutes; then [...] the pieces up one by one, turn them round [28] with a little fine ſkewer, roll them in crumbs [...] bread, and broil them of a fine brown. Let [...] ſauce be plain butter, with the juice of lemon, [...] good gravy with an anchovy in it.
Of BUTCHERS MEAT.
To broil Beef Steaks, Mutton, or Pork Chops.
Lay your ſteaks on the gridiron, and throw upon them pepper and ſalt to your taſte. Do not turn them till one ſide be enough; and when the other ſide has been turned a little while, a fine gravy will lie on the top, and lift it altogether with a pair of ſmall tongs, or carefully with a knife and fork, into a hot diſh, and put a little piece of butter under it, which will help to draw out the gravy. Some palates like it with a ſhalot or two, or [...] onion, ſhred very fine.
But if they be mutton or pork ſteaks, they must be frequently turned on the gridiron.
The general ſauce for ſteaks is horſe-radiſh [...] beef; muſtard for pork; and girkins pickled [...] mutton. But in ſeaſon, I would recommend a good ſallad, or green cucumbers, or celery, for beef and mutton; and green peas for lamb ſteaks.
To broil Sheep or Hog's Tongues.
Firſt boil, blanch, and ſplit your tongue ſeaſon them with a little pepper and ſalt, and the dip them in eggs; throw over them a few crumbs of bread, and broil them till they are brown; ſerve them up with a little gravy and butter.
Of FRYING.
[29]Of BUTCHERS MEAT.
To fry Beef Steaks.
TAKE ſome beef ſteaks, beat them with a roller, fry them in half a pint of ale that is not bitter, and whilſt they are frying, cut a large onion ſmall, a very little thyme, ſome parſley ſhred ſmall, ſome grated nutmeg, and a little pepper and ſalt; roll all together in a piece of butter, and then in a little [...]our, put this into a ſtew-pan, and ſhake all toge⯑ther. When the ſteaks are tender, and the ſauce of a fine thickneſs, diſh it up.
Another Way.
Cut the lean by itſelf, and beat them well with the back of a knife; fry them in juſt as much butter as will moiſten the pan; pour off the gravy as it runs from the meat, turn them often, and do them over a gentle fire; then fry the fat by itſelf, and lay upon the meat; and put to the gravy a glaſs of red wine, half an anchovy, a little nutmeg, a little beaten pepper, and a ſhalot cut ſmall; let it have two or three boils, ſeaſon it with ſalt to your palate, pour it over the ſteaks, and ſend them to table.— Garniſh your diſh with ſcraped horſe-radiſh.
To fry Beef Steaks with Oyſters.
Pepper ſome tender beef ſteaks to your mind, but don't ſalt them, for that will make them hard; turn them often, till they are enough, which you will know by their feeling firm; then ſalt them to your mind.
[30] For ſauce, take oyſters with their liquor, and waſh them in ſalt and water; let the oyſter liquor ſtand to ſettle, and then pour off the clear; ſtey them gently in it, with a little nutmeg or mace ſome whole pepper, a clove or two, and take care yo [...] don't ſtew them too much, for that will make their hard; when they are almoſt enough, add a little white wine, and a piece of butter rolled in flour to thicken it.
To fry Mutton Steaks.
Cut off the rump end of the [...]oin, then cut the reſt into ſteaks, and flat them with a cleaver o [...] rolling-pin, ſeaſon them with a little ſalt and pep⯑per, and fry them in butter over a quick fire; an [...] you fry them put them into an earthen pot till you [...] have fried them all; then pour the fat out of the pan, put in a little gravy, and the gravy that comes from the ſteaks, with a ſpoonful of red wine, an anchovy, and an onion or ſhalot ſhred; ſhake up the ſteaks in the gravy, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. Garniſh with horſe-radiſh and ſhalots.
Another Way.
Firſt take a handful of grated bread, a little thyme, parſley, and lemon-peel, ſhred very ſmall with ſome ſalt, pepper and nutmeg; then cut a loin of mutton into ſteaks, and let them be well beaten; take the yorks of two eggs, and rub all over the ſteaks. Strew on the grated bread with theſe ingredients mixed together, and fry them. Make your ſauce of gravy, with a ſpoonful or two of claret, and a little anchovy.
To fry a Loin of Lamb.
Cut the loin into thin ſteaks, put on them a little pepper, ſalt, and nutmeg, and fry them in freſh [31] butter. When the ſteaks are enough, take them put, and lay them in a diſh before the fire; then [...]our out the butter, ſhake a little flour over the bottom of the pan, pour in a quarter of a pint of boiling water, and put in a piece of butter; ſhake all together, give it a boil or two up, pour it over [...]he ſteaks, and ſerve them up. Garniſh the diſh with fried parſley.
You may do mutton the ſame way, and two ſpoon⯑fuls of walnut pickle.
To fry Liver and Bacon.
Cut the liver in ſlices, and fry it firſt brown and [...]ice, and then the bacon; lay the liver in the diſh, and the bacon upon it. Serve it up with melted butter in a boat, and garniſh with ſliced lemon.
To fry Sweetbreads and Kidnies.
Split the kidnies, and then fry them and the ſweetbreads together in butter. Serve them up with a brown ragoo ſauce and muſhrooms; and garniſh the diſh with fried parſley and ſliced lemon.
To fry Tripe.
Cut your tripe into pieces about three inches long, dip them into the yolk of an egg, and a few crumbs of bread, fry them of a fine brown, and then take them out of the pan, and lay them in a diſh to drain
Have ready a warm diſh to put them in, and ſend them to table with butter and muſtard in a boat.
To fry Calf's Feet in Butter.
Blanch the feet, boil them as you would do for eating, take out the large bones and cut them in [32] two, beat a ſpoonful of wheat flour and four eggs together, put to it a little nutmeg, pepper and ſalt, dip in your calf's feet, and fry them in butter, a light brown, and lay them upon a diſh with a little melted butter over them. Garniſh with ſlices of lemon, and ſerve them up.
To fry Sauſages.
Cut them in ſingle links, and fry them in good butter; then take a round of a loaf, fry it of a nice brown in the ſame butter, and lay it in the bottom of your diſh; put the ſauſages on the toaſt in four parts, lay poached eggs between them, and diſh them up with melted butter.
To fry Sauſages with Apples.
Take ſix apples, and half a pound of ſauſages; cut four of the apples into thin ſlices, and quarter the other two; then fry them with the ſauſages, and when they are enough, lay the ſauſages in the middle of your diſh, and the ſliced apples round them. Garniſh with the quartered apples.
To fry Veal Cutlets.
Cut your veal into ſlices, and lard them with bacon; waſh them over with eggs, and then ſtrew on them ſeaſoning made with ſweet-marjoram, nutmeg, pepper, ſalt, and a little grated lemon.— Fry them in ſweet butter, and when they are done, pour into the diſh ſome good gravy.—Garniſh the diſh with ſliced lemon.
Another Way.
Cut a neck of veal into ſteaks, and fry them in butter. Boil the ſcrag to ſtrong broth, add [33] two anchovies, a nutmeg, ſome lemon peel, [...]enny-royal, and parſley, ſhred very ſmall: burn a piece of butter, and put into the liquor; then put in the cutlets, with a glaſs of white wine, and [...]ofs up the whole together. If it be not thick enough, flour a bit of butter, and throw it in. Lay it into the diſh, ſqueeze an orange over it, and ſtrew on as much ſalt as will properly reliſh [...]t.
To fry cold Veal.
Cut it into pieces about as thick as half a crown, and as long as you pleaſe, dip them in the yolk of an egg, and then in the crumbs of bread, with a few ſweet herbs, and ſhred lemon-peel in it; grate a little nutmeg over them, and fry them in freſh butter. The butter muſt be hot, and juſt enough to fry them in: For ſauce, make a little gravy of the bone of the veal; when the meat is fried, take it out with a fork and lay it in a diſh before the fire, then ſhake a little flour into the pan, and ſtir it round; put in a little gravy, ſqueeze in a little lemon, and pour it over the veal. Garniſh with lemon.
To make Scotch Collops.
Cut ſome lean veal into ſlices, and dip them into the yolks of eggs that have been beaten up with melted butter, a little ſalt, ſome grated nutmeg, and grated lemon-peel. Fry them quick, and ſhake them often, to keep the butter from oiling; then put to them ſome beef gravy, and ſome muſhrooms, or forced meat balls. Garniſh your diſh with ſlices of bacon and lemon.—If you would have the collops white, do not dip them in eggs. When they are fried tender, pour off the liquor quite clean, put in ſome cream to the meat, juſt give it a boil up, and then ſerve it to table.
To fry Beef Collops.
[34]Cut your beef in thin ſlices, about two inches long, lay them upon your dreſſer, and hack them with the back of your knife; grate a little nutmeg over them, and duſt on ſome flour; lay them into a ſtew-pan, and put in as much water as you think ſufficient for ſauce; ſhred half an onion, and a little lemon-peel very fine, a bundle of ſweet herbs, and a little pepper and ſalt. Roll a piece of but⯑ter in flour, and ſet them over a clear fire till they begin to ſimmer; ſhake them together often, but don't let them boil up; after they begin to ſimmer; ten minutes will do them; take out your herbs and diſh them up. Garniſh the diſh with pickles and horſ-radiſh.
To make white Scotch Collops.
Cut about four pounds of fillet of veal in thin pieces; then take a clean ſtew pan, butter it over, and ſhake a little flour over it; then lay your meat in piece by piece, till all your pan is covered; then take two or three blades of mace, and a little nutmeg, ſet your ſtew-pan over the fire, toſs it up together till all your meat be white, then take half a pint of ſtrong veal broth, which muſt be ready made, a quarter of a pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs; mix all theſe together, put it to your meat, keeping it toſſing all the time till they juſt boil up; when they are enough, ſqueeze in a little lemon. You may add oyſters and muſhrooms, to make it rich.
Of FISH.
[35]To fry Carp.
Scale and clean your carp very well, ſlit them in [...]wo, ſprinkle them with ſalt, flour them, and fry them in clarified butter. Make a ragoo with a good fiſh broth, the melts of your fiſh, artichoke bottoms cut in ſmall dice, and half a pint of ſhrimps: thicken it with the yolk of eggs, or a piece of butter rolled in flour: put the ragoo into a diſh, and lay your fried carp upon it. Garniſh with fried ſippets, criſp parſley and lemon.
To fry Tench.
When you have thoroughly cleanſed them of their lime, ſlip the ſkin along the backs, and with the point of your knife raiſe it up from the bone; then cut the ſkin acroſs at the head and tail, ſtrip it off, and take out the bone; then take another tench, or a carp, and mince the fleſh ſmall with muſh⯑rooms, chives, and parſley. Seaſon them with ſalt, pepper, beaten mace, nutmeg, and a few ſavory herbs minced ſmall. Mingle theſe all well toge⯑ther, then pound them in a mortar with crumbs of bread, and as much as two eggs ſoaked in cream, the yolks of three or four eggs, and a piece of but⯑ter. When theſe have been well pounded, ſtuff the tenches with this farce: take clarified butter, put it into a pan, ſet it over the fire, and when it is hot, flour your tenches, and put them into the pan one by one, and fry them brown; then take them up, lay them in a coarſe cloth before the fire, to keep hot. In the mean time, pour all the greaſe and fat out of the pan, put in a quarter of a pound of butter, ſhake ſome flour all over the pan, and keep ſtirring with a ſpoon till the butter is a little brown; then pour in half a pint of white wine, ſtir it to⯑gether, [36] pour in half a pint of boiling water, an onion ſtuck with cloves, a bundle of ſweet herbs, and a blade or two of mace. Cover them cloſe, and let them ſtew as ſoftly as you can for a quarter of an hour, then ſtrain off the liquor, put it into the pan again, add two ſpoonfuls of catchup, have ready an ounce of truffles, or morels, boiled tender in half a pint of water, pour the truffles, water and all, into the pan, with a few muſhrooms, and either half a pint of oyſters, clean waſhed in their own liquor, and the liquor and all put into the pan, or ſome craw-fiſh; but then you muſt put in the tails, and after clean picking them, boil them in half a pint of water, then ſtrain the liquor, and put into the ſauce; or take ſome fiſh-melts, and toſs up in your ſauce. All this is juſt as you fancy.
When you find your ſauce is very good put your tench into the pan, make them quite hot, then lay them into your diſh, and pour the ſauce over them. Garniſh with lemon.
Or you may, for change, put in half a pint of ſtale beer inſtead of water. Or you may dreſs tench as you do carp.
To fry Trout.
Scale your trout clean, then gut them, and take out the gills, waſh them, and dry them in a cloth, flour them, and fry them in butter till they are of a fine brown; when they are enough, take them up, and ſerve them; fry ſome parſley green and criſp, melt anchovy and butter, with a ſpoonful of white wine. Diſh your fiſh, and garniſh with fried parſley, and ſliced lemon. You may pour your fauce over the fiſh, or ſend it in a boat, which you pleaſe.
In this manner you may fry perch, ſmall pike, jacks, roach, gudgeons, or a chine of freſh ſalmon.
To fry flat Fiſh.
[37]Dry the fiſh well in a cloth, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and duſt over ſome flour; let [...]our oil, butter, lard, or dripping, be ready to boil before you put in the fiſh; fry them off with a quick fire, then let them be of a fine brown. Be⯑fore you diſh them up, lay them upon a drainer be⯑fore the fire ſloping, for two or three minutes, which will prevent their eating greaſy. For ſauce, take half a pint of water, two anchovies ſplit, a clove, a bit of màce, a little lemon-peel, a few pepper-corns, and a large ſpoonful of red wine; boil all together, till your achovy is diſſolved; then ſtrain it off, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour.
You muſt obſerve on faſt days, and in Lent, never to dreſs your fiſh in any thing but butter, or oil.
To fry Herrings.
After having cleanſed your herrings, take out the roes, dry them and the herrings in a cloth; flour them, and fry them in butter of a fine brown; lay them before the fire to drain; ſlice three or four onions, flour them and dry them nicely; diſh up the herrings, and garniſh them with the roes and onions: Send them up as hot as you can with but⯑ter and muſtard in a boat.
To fry Eels.
After having ſkinned and cleaned your eels, ſplit them, and cut them in pieces; let them lay for two or three hours in a pickle made of vinegar, ſalt, pepper, bay-leaves, ſliced onion, and juice of lemon; [38] then dredge them well with flour, and fry them in clarified butter; ſerve them dry with fried parſley, and lemon for garniſh. Send plain butter and an⯑chovy ſauce in ſeveral boats.
To fry Lampries.
Bleed them, and ſave the blood, then waſh them in hot water to take off the ſlime, cut them in pieces, and let them be fried in butter, not quite enough; drain out all the fat, then put in a little white wine, and ſhake your pan; ſeaſon them with whole pepper, nutmeg, ſalt. ſweet herbs, and a bay leaf, a good piece of butter rolled in flour, and the blood that was ſaved; cover them cloſe, and ſhake the pan often. When you think they are enough, take them up, and give the ſauce a quick boil, ſqueeze in a little lemon, and pour the ſauce over the fiſh.—Send it to table garniſhed with lemon.
To fry ſmall Fiſh of all Sorts.
Small fiſh are generally dreſſed to garniſh a diſh of fiſh, as ſmelts, gudgeons, roach, ſmall whitings, &c. Wipe them dry with a cloth, then rub them over with the yolk of an egg, flour them, and fry them in oil, butter, hog's-lard, or beef dripping; take care they are fried of a fine light brown; and if they are ſent by themſelves in a diſh, garniſh with fried parſley and lemon.
Whitings, when ſmall, ſhould be turned round, the tail put into the mouth, and ſo fried; if large, they are ſkinned, turned round and fried.
Plaice, flounders, and dabs, are rubbed over with eggs, and fried.
Small maids are frequently dipped in batter, and fried.
As theſe ſorts of fiſh are generally dreſſed by themſelves for ſupper, you may ſend various ſauces
[39] you like beſt; either ſhrimps, oyſters, anchovy and butter, or plain melted butter; and ſome chuſe oil and lemon.
To fry Oyſters.
You muſt take a better of milk, eggs and flour; then take your oyſters and waſh them; wipe them fry, and dip them in the batter, then roll them in some crumbs of bread and a little mace beat fine, and fry them in very hot butter or lard.
Or, beat four eggs with ſalt, put in a little nut⯑meg grated, and a ſpoonful of grated bread, then make it as thick as batter for pancakes, with fine flour; drop the oyſters in, and fry them brown in clarified beef ſuet. They are to lie round in any diſh of fiſh. Ox palates boiled tender, blanched, and cut in pieces, then fried in ſuch batter, is proper to garniſh haſhes or fricaſees.
Of GARDEN STUFF.
To fry Cauliflowers.
Take two fine cauliflowers, boil them in milk and water, then leave one whole, and pull the other to pieces; take half a pound of butter, with two ſpoon⯑fuls of water, a little duſt of flour, and melt the butter in a ſtew-pan; then put in the whole cauli⯑flower cut in two, and the other pulled to pieces, and fry it till it is of a very light brown. Seaſon it with pepper and ſalt. When it is enough, lay the two halves in the middle, and pour the reſt all over.
To fry Artichoke Bottoms.
Firſt blanch them in water, then flour them, fry them in freſh butter, lay them in your diſh, and [40] pour melted butter over them. Or you may put a little red wine into the butter, and ſeaſon with nutmeg, pepper and ſalt.
To fry Celery.
Take ſix or eight heads of celery, cut off the green tops, and take off the outſide ſtalks, waſh them clean; then have ready half a pint of white wine, the yolks of three eggs beat fine, and a little ſalt and nutmeg; mix all well together with flour into a batter, dip every head into the batter, and fry them in butter. When enough, lay them in the diſh, and put melted butter over them.
To fry Potatoes.
Pare them very clean, and take out all the ſpecks; then cut them into thin ſlices, and fry them till they are of a nice brown on both ſides: then take them up, put them into your diſh, and ſerve them to ta⯑ble, with melted butter in a baſon or boat.
To fry Parſley.
Let your parſley for this purpoſe be very young. Waſh it thoroughly clean, and pick the leaves care⯑fully from ſtalks. Then put a little butter in your pan, which muſt be quite clean, and when it is very hot put in the parſley: keep it conſtantly ſtirring with a knife till it is quite criſp; then take it out, and apply it to the purpoſes for which it is wanted.
To fry Onions.
When you have pealed your onions, cut them into ſlices about a quarter of an inch thick: dip theſe ſlices into batter, or an egg well beaten up, and fry them brown. When they are done, let them lay two or three minutes on a ſtrainer before the fire, in order that the greafe may drain from them, and ſerve them to table.
Of STEWING.
[41]Of GAME and POULTRY.
To flew a Gooſe.
YOU muſt cut the gooſe down the back, bone it, and ſtuff it with forcemeat; then ſew it up, and fry it of a fine brown; after which you muſt put it into a deep ſtewpan with two quarts of beef gravy, cover it cloſe, and let it ſtew for two hours: then take it up, and ſkim off the fat, add to the gravy a glaſs of red wine, two or three ſpoonfuls of catchup and lemon pickle, an anchovy ſhred fine, ſome beaten [...]nace, pepper and ſalt, and a lump of butter rolled in flour; give it a boil, diſh up your gooſe, and ſtrain the ſauce over it.
To ſtew Rabbits.
Divide your rabbits into quarters, lard them with pretty large ſlips of bacon, and fry them; then put them in a ſtewpan, with a quart of good broth, a glaſs of white wine, a bunch of ſweet herbs, a little pep⯑per and ſalt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. When they are enough, diſh them up, and pour the ſauce on them. Garniſh with ſliced orange.
To ſtew a Turkey or Fowl.
Put your fowl or turkey into a ſaucepan, with a ſufficient quantity of gravy, a bunch of celery cut ſmall, an onion, a ſprig of thyme, and a muſlin rag [...]illed with pepper, mace, cloves, and other ſpice; [...]et theſe ſtew gently till they are enough, then take [42] up your fowl or turkey, thicken the ſauce with flou and butter, and pour it in your diſh. N. B. You may ſtew a neck of v [...]al in the ſame manner.
To ſtew Ducks or Pigeons.
Firſt ſtuff their bellies with a ſeaſoning made of ſweet herbs, pepper, ſalt, cloves, and mace, mixed up with a piece of butter; then ſet them before the ſire, and when they are half roaſted, put them in a ſtewpan, with a ſufficiency of good gravy, ſome pickled muſhrooms, and a glaſs of white or red wine, a bit of lemon-peel, a ſmall bundle of ſweet herbs, ſome whole pepper, mace, and a piece of onion; when they are done, take them out, thicken the ſauce with butter and the yolks of eggs, and pour it over your ducks or pigeons. Garniſh with ſliced lemon, or with ſhalots.—N. B. Ducks are frequently ſtewed with green peaſe.
To ſtew Giblets.
Let the giblets be clean picked and waſhed, the feet ſkinned, and the bill cut off, the head ſplit in two, the pi [...]ion bones broken, the liver and gizzard cut in four, and the neck in two pieces: put them into half a pint of water, with pepper, ſalt, a ſmall onion, and ſweet herbs. Cover the ſaucepan cloſe, and let them ſtew till enough upon a ſlow fire. Then ſeaſon them with ſalt, take out the onion and herbs, and pour them into a diſh with all the liquor.
To ſtew a Hare.
Let it be half roaſted, and then, having cut it into ſmall pieces, and diſſected the bones, put all of it into a ſtewpan, with a quart of gravy, a gill of red wine, and an anchovy. You muſt not let it boil, [43] but keep toſſing it up with butter and flour till it be enough; and then ſerve it up in a ſoup diſh garniſh⯑ed with fried parſley.
To ſtew Partridges.
Having ſtuffed your partridges with beaten mace, pepper, ſalt, and a lump of butter, flour them well, and fry them of a light brown; then put them into a ſtewpan, with a quart of good gravy, a ſpoonful or two of Madeira wine and lemon pickle, one an⯑chovy, a few ſweet herbs, and half a lemon: when they have ſtewed half an hour, take them out, thicken the gravy, boil it up, pour it on the par⯑tridges, and lay round them artichoke-bottoms, boiled and cut in quarters.
To ſtew Pheaſants.
Take artichoke-bottoms parboiled, and ſome cheſnuts roaſted and peeled; ſtew your pheaſant in veal gravy, and when it is enough, put in the cheſnuts and artichoke-bottoms, ſome lemon-juice, a little pepper, ſalt, beaten mace, and a glaſs of white wine; thicken the ſauce with butter and flour, pour it over the pheaſant, and lay ſome forcemeat [...]al [...]s or fried ſauſages in the diſh.
Of FISH.
To ſtew Carp or Tench.
Scale and gut your carp or tench, waſh and dry them, duſt them with flour, and fry them of a light brown in dripping or ſuet: then put them into a ſtewpan, with a quart of water, a quart of red wine, a ſpoonful or two of lemon pickle and walnut catch⯑up, an onion ſtuck with cloves, a piece of horſe-radiſh, ſome nutmeg, mace, pepper, and ſalt. When [44] your fiſh are done, take them out, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, boil it a little, and ſtrain it over your carp or tench. Garniſh the diſh with pickled muſhrooms and ſcraped horſe radiſh.
To ſtew Plaice, Soles, or Flounders.
Firſt half fry them in butter, then take them up: add to the butter a quart of water, and boil it ſlowly a quarter of an hour with a ſliced onion, and two anchovies; then put in your fiſh again, and when they have ſtewed gently for twenty minutes, take them out; thicken the ſauce with butter rolled in flour, give it a boil, and ſtrain it through a hair ſieve over your fiſh.
To ſtew a Trout.
Take a few crumbs of bread, two or three eggs buttered, a piece of lemon-peel, a little thyme, nut⯑meg, ſalt, and pepper; mix them all together, and ſtuff the belly of your trout with them; then put it in a ſtewpan, with ſome gravy and white wine, and a lump of butter. When it is done, ſerve it up with the ſauce in the diſh, and garniſh with lemon cut in ſlices.
Of BUTCHERS MEAT.
To ſtew Veal in general.
Take ſome lean veal, either raw, or under⯑roaſted, or boiled; cut it in thick ſlices, then put them in as much water as will juſt cover them; throw in a little pepper and ſalt, nutmeg, mace, ſweet-marjoram, a ſhalot and a little lemon-peel; when they are almoſt ſtewed enough, put into the liquor a little catchup, a little lemon-juice, a glaſs of white wine, and let it ſtew ſome time longer; then ſtrain [45] off the liquor, and put ſome pickled muſhrooms in the ſauce, and thicken it with cream, or butter rolled in flour. Garniſh your diſh with fried oyſters, and ſliced orange and lemon.
To ſtew a Neck of Veal.
Cut the neck of veal in ſteaks, and ſeaſon them well with a mixture of ſalt and pepper, grated nut⯑meg, thyme, and knotted marjoram. Stew theſe gently over the fire till they are enough: then add two anchovies, ſome gravy or ſtrong broth, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Toſs it up till it becomes thick; then put it in as diſh, and ſerve it up hot. Garniſh with ſliced lemon.
To ſtew a Breaſt of Veal.
Let the breaſt be fat and white, cut off both ends, and boil them for gravy. Make a force⯑meat of the ſweet bread boiled, a few crumbs of bread, a little beef ſuet, two eggs, pepper and ſalt, a ſpoonful or two of cream, and a little grated nut⯑meg; with which mixture, having raiſed the thin part of the breaſt, ſtuff the veal. Skewer the ſkin cloſe down, dredge it over with flour, tie it up in a clean cloth, and ſtew it in milk and water about an hour.
To mince Veal.
Let your veal be cut as fine as poſſible, but not chopped; grate a little nutmeg over it, ſhred a little lemon-peel very fine, throw a very little ſalt on it, and dredge it with flour. To a large plate of veal, take four or five ſpoonfuls of water, let it boil, then put in the veal, with a piece of butter as big as an egg, ſtir it well together, and when it is thoroughly hot, it is enough. Lay ſome ſippets round the plate, and before you your in the veal. ſqueeze half a lemon, or half a ſpoonful of vinegar.
To ſtew Beef.
[46]Take a piece of lean beef, with about a pound of the hard fat of briſket cut in pieces. Put theſe into a ſtew-pan with three pints of water, a little ſalt, pepper, dried marjoram powdered, and thr [...]e cloves. Cover the pan very cloſe, and let it ſtew four hours over a ſlow fire. Throw in a much turnip and carrot cut into ſquare pieces as you think convenient; and the white part of a large leek, two heads of cellery ſhred, a piece of cruſt of bread burnt, and half a pint of red wine. Let theſe ſtew all together one hour more; then pour it all into a ſoup diſh, and ſerve it up hot. Garniſh with ſliced carrot.
To ſtew Beef Collops.
Take a piece of raw beef, and cut it in the ſame manner as you do veal for Scotch collops. Put the collops into a ſtew-pan with a little water, a glaſs of white wine, a ſhalot, a little dried morjoram dried to powder, ſome ſalt and pepper, and a ſlice or two of fat bacon. Set this over a quick fire till the pan is nearly full of gravy, which will be in a little time; add to this a little muſhroom juice, and then ſerve it up hot. Garniſh with ſlices of lemon, or ſmall pickles and red cabbage.
To ſtew Briſket of Beef.
Having rubbed the briſket with common ſalt and ſaltpetre, let it lie four days. Then lard the ſkin with fat bacon, and put it into a ſtew-pan with a quart of water, a pint of red wine or ſtrong beer, half a pound of butter, a bunch of ſweet herbs, three or four ſhalots, ſome pepper, and half a nut⯑meg grated. Cover the pan very cloſe. Stew it over a gentle fire for ſix hours. Then fry ſome ſquare pieces of turnips very brown. Strain the [47] liquor the beef was ſtewed in, thicken it with burnt butter, and having mixed the turnips with it, pour all together over the beef in a large diſh. An ox⯑cheek, or a leg of beef, may be ſerved up in the ſame manner.
To ſtew Beef Gobbets.
Cut any piece of beef, except the leg, in pieces, the ſize of a pullet's egg. Put them into a ſtew⯑pan, and cover them with water. Let them ſtew one hour, and ſkim them very clean. Then add a ſufficient quantity of mace, cloves, whole pepper, tied up looſe in a muſlin rag, ſome celery cut ſmall, and ſa [...]t, turnips and carrots, pared and cut in ſlices, a little parſley, a bundle of ſweet herbs, a large cruſt of bread, and, if you pleaſe, and an ounce of pearl barley, or rice. Cover all cloſe, and ſtew it till tender. Then take out the herbs, ſpices, and bread, and add a French roll fried and cut in four. Diſh up altogether, and ſend it to table.
To ſtew Ox Palates.
Put the palates into a ſaucepan of cold water, and let them ſtew very ſoftly over a ſlow fire till they are tender. Then cut them into pieces, and diſh them with cock's-combs and artichoke bot⯑toms cut ſmall; and garniſh with lemon ſliced, and with ſweetbreads ſtewed for white diſhes, and fried for brown ones, and cut alſo into little pieces.
N. B. This ſtew is generally uſed for im⯑proving a fricaſſee, or a ragoo of veal, lamb, [...]abbits, &c.
To ſtew a Rump of Beef.
You muſt half roaſt your beef, then put it in a leep pan, with two quarts of water, one quart of [48] red wine, a ſhalot, ſome ſweet herbs, pepper, an ſalt, two or three blades of mace, and a ſpoonful or two of walnut catchup and lemon-pickle; let [...] ſtew over a moderate fire, cloſe covered, for two hours; then take it up, and lay it in a deep diſh [...] ſtrain the gravy, put in half a pint of muſhrooms, and an ounce of morels, thicken it with flou [...] and butter, and pour it over the beef. Garniſh with horſe-radiſh and beet-root.
To ſtew a Neck or Leg of Mutton.
You muſt firſt bone the joint that you are going to ſtew; then put your meat in a ſaucepan, with ſome whole pepper, ſalt, mace, and nutmeg, one anchovy, a turnip, a few ſweet herbs, two onions, a pint of ale, a pint of red wine, two quarts of water, and a hard cruſt of bread; cover it cloſe, and when it is ſtewed enough, ſerve it up with toaſts and the gravy.
N. B. An ox-cheek may be dreſſed in the ſame manner.
To ſtew Mutton Chops.
Put them into a ſhallow tin pan, with a very ſmall quantity of water, and ſome pepper and ſalt, cover your pan very cloſe, and place it over a ſlow fire. When the chops are done (which will be in a very ſhort time) diſh them up with their own liquor, and garniſh with pickles.
To ſtew a Pig.
Let your pig be roaſted till it is hot through; then ſkin it, cut it in pieces, and put it in your ſtew⯑pan, together with ſome ſtrong gravy, a gill of white wine, an onion, a little marjoram, a piece of butter, three of four ſpoonfuls of elder vinegar, ſome ſalt, pepper, and nutmeg. When it is enough, take it out, lay it upon ſippets, and ſerve it up with ſlice [...] lemon for garniſh.
Of HASHES.
[49]To haſh a Hare.
CUT up your hare entirely, put it into a ſtew-pan with ſome good gravy, a gill of red wine, ſome ſhred lemon-peel, and a bundle of ſweet herbs; let it ſtew for an hour, then add ſome forced-meat balls, and yolks of twelve hard boiled eggs, with truffles and morels. Give them a boil up, then take out the herbs, place the hare hand⯑ſomely on the diſh, and pour the gravy, &c. over it. Garniſh with ſliced lemon and barberries.
To haſh a Calf's Head.
Boil it till it is near enough, then take it up, and let it lie in a diſh till it is cold. This done, take one half of the head, and cut off the meat in thin ſlices, put it into a ſtewpan with a little brown gravy, a ſpoonful or two of walnut-pickle, a ſpoon⯑ful of catchup, a glaſs of red wine, a little ſhred [...]ace, a few capers ſhred, or a little mango; boil it over a ſtove, and thicken it with butter and [...]our. When you have done this, take the other part of the head, cut off the bone ends, and ſcore it with a knife, ſeaſon it with a little pepper and salt, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and ſtrew [...] it a few bread crumbs and little parſley; then [...] it before the fire till it is brown, and when you fiſh up the other part, put this in the middle.— [...] about your haſh ſome force-meat balls, a [...] ſlices of bacon nicely fried, and brain cakes. This laſt article muſt be made thus: Take a handful of bread crumbs, a little ſhred lemon-peel, pepper, ſalt, nutmeg, ſweet-marjoram, parſ⯑ley ſhred fine, and the yolks of three eggs;— [50] Take the brains and ſkin them; boil and chop them ſmall, and mix them all together; put a little but⯑ter in your pan when you fry them, and drop them in as you do fritters. If they ſhould run in your pan, put in a handful more of bread crumbs.
To haſh a Lamb's Head and Pluck.
Boil the head and pluck a quarter of an hour at moſt, the heart five minutes, the liver and lights half an hour. Cut the heart, liver and lights, into ſmall ſquare bits, not bigger than a pea. Make a gravy of the liquor that runs from the head with a quarter of a pint of the liquor in which it is boiled, a little walnut liquor or catchup, and a little vine⯑gar, pepper and ſalt; them put in the brains and the haſhed meat, ſhake them well together in the liquor, which ſhould be only juſt as much as to wet the meat. Pour all upon the ſippets in a ſoup diſh, and having grilled the head before the fire, or with a ſalamander, lay it open with the brown ſide up⯑wards upon the haſhed liver, &c. Garniſh with ſliced pickled cucumbers, and thin ſlices of bacon broiled.
To haſh cold Fowl.
When you have cut up your fowl in the uſual manner, divide the legs, wings, heart, &c. into ſeveral pieces; then put them into a ſtewpan, with a blade or two of mace, and a little ſhred lemon-peel; dredge it on a little flour, and put in about half a pint of good gravy. When it begins to ſimmer, put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, with a few pickled muſhrooms. As ſoon as it boils it is enough; then take it up, pour the whole into your diſh, and garniſh with ſliced lemon.
To haſh Mutton.
[51]Take mutton half roaſted, and cut it in pieces as big as half a crown; then put into the ſaucepan half a pint of red wine, as much ſtrong broth or gravy (or water, if you have not the other) one anchovy, a ſhalot, a little whole pepper, ſome nut⯑meg grated, and ſalt to your taſte; let theſe ſtew a little, then put in the meat, and a few capers and ſamphire ſhred; when it is hot through, thicken it up with a piece of freſh butter rolled in flour; have toaſted ſippets ready to lay in the diſh, and pour the meat on them. Garniſh with lemon.
To haſh Beef.
Take the raw part of any piece of roaſted beef, and cut it into thin ſlices, about the length of a little finger, and about the ſame breadth. Take alſo a little water, and an equal quantity of gravy; boil it well with a large onion cut in two, pepper and ſalt, then take a piece of butter rolled in flour, and ſtir it in the pan till it burns. Put it in the ſauce, and let it boil a minute or two; then put in the ſliced beef, but you muſt only juſt let it warm through. Some add only a few capers, muſhrooms, walnut-pickle, or catchup. Serve this up to table in a ſoup diſh, garniſhed with pickles.
To mince Veal.
Take any part of veal that is under done, either roaſted or boiled, and ſhred it as fine as poſſible with a knife. Then take a ſufficient quantity of beef gravy, diſſolve it in the quantity of a hazle nut of caviare to half a pound of meat, and then put into the gravy the minced veal, and let it boil not above a minute. Pour it into a ſoup plate, or diſh, upon ſippets of bread toaſted, and [52] garniſh the diſh with pickled cucumbers, &c. or with thin ſlices of bacon broiled.
Of SOUPS.
To make a Brown Portable Soup.
TAKE a large leg of beef, bone it, and take off the ſkin, and what fat you can; put it into a ſtoving-pot with a tight cover; put to it about four gallons of ſoft water, with ſix anchovies, half an ounce of mace, a few cloves, half an ounce of whole white pepper, three onions cut in two, a bunch of thyme, ſweet marjoram, and parſley, with the bottom cruſt of a two-penny loat that is well baked; cover it very cloſe, and let it have a conſtant fire to do leiſurely for ſeven or eight hours; then ſtir it well together, to make the meat ſeparate; cover it cloſe-again, and in an hour try your broth in a cup, to ſee if it will glutinate; if it does, take if off, and ſtrain it through a canvas bag into a clean pan; then have china or well⯑glazed earthen cups, and fill them with the clear jelly; put them into a broad gravy-pan, or ſtew⯑pan, with boiling water; ſet in the cups, and let them boil in that till they are perfectly glue.— When they are almoſt cold, run a knife round them, and turn them upon a piece or new flannel, to draw out the moiſture; in ſix or ſeven hours turn them, and do ſo till they are perfectly hard and dry; put them into ſtone jars, and keep them in a dry place.
This is very good for ſoups, ſauces, and gravies. When you intend to make it into ſoup, ſhred and waſh very clean what herbs you have to enrich it, as celery, endive, chervil, leeks, lettuce, or indeed what herbs you can get; boil them in water till [53] they are tender, ſtrain them off, and with that water diſſolve what quantity of portable ſoup you pleaſe, according to the ſtrength you would have it. If you are where you can get it, fry a French roll, and put it in the middle of your diſh, moiſtened firſt with ſome of your ſoup; and when your cakes are thoroughly melted, put your herbs to it, and ſet it over the fire till it is juſt at boiling; then diſh it up, and ſend it to table.
To make a White Portable Soup.
Take a leg of veal, bone it, and take off all the ſkin and fat; take likewiſe two dozen of fowls or chickens feet, waſhed clean and chopped to pieces; put al into a large ſtoving-pot, with three gallons of ſoft water and let it ſtove gently till the meat is ſo tender as to ſeparate. You muſt keep your pot tight covered, and a conſtant fire during the time of its ſtoving; in about ſeven or eight hours try your jelly in a cup, and when quite cold, if it is ſo ſtiff that you can cut it with a knife, take it off, and ſtrain it through a ſieve; but take off all the fat and ſcum firſt with a ſpoon, and then with filtering paper; provide china cups, and fill them with the clear jelly; ſet them in a gravy-pan, or a large ſtewpan of boiling water, over a ſtove; in this water boil your jelly in the cups till it is as thick as glue; after which, let them ſtand in the water till they are quite cold: Before you turn them out of your cups, run the edge of a knife round to looſen them, then turn them upon a piece of new flannel, which will draw out all the moiſture gradually. Turn them every ſix or eight hours, till they are perfectly dry, and like a piece of glue; keep them in as dry a place as you can, and in a little time they will be ſo hard, that you may carry them in your pocket without the leaſt incon⯑venience. When you want to uſe it, take a piece about the bigneſs of a walnut, and pour a pint of [54] boiling water on it, ſtirring it till it is diſſolved; ſeaſon it with ſalt to your taſte, and you will have a baſon of ſtrong broth. If you want a diſh of ſoup, boil vermicelli in water; then to a cake of your ſoup pour a pint of water, ſo that four cakes will make two quarts; when it is thoroughly melted, ſet it over the fire juſt to ſimmer, pour it into the diſh, put in thin ſlices of bread hardened before the fire, and the vermicelli upon them. Thus you have a diſh of ſoup in about half an hour. Whilſt this is doing, you may have any thing dreſt to follow, which will not only be a good addition to your dinner, but ſaving time.
Note. You muſt ſeaſon it to your palate, as there is no ſalt, or ſeaſoning of any kind in the preparation.
To make Gravy Soup.
Take the bones of a rump of beef, and a piece of the neck, and boil it till you have all the goodneſs of it; then ſtrain it off, and take a good piece of butter, put it in a ſtew-pan, and brown it, then put to it an onion ſtuck with cloves, ſome celery, endive, ſpinach, and three carrots; put to your gravy ſome pepper, ſalt, and cloves, and let it boil all together; then put in ſippets of bread dried by the fire, and you may add a glaſs of red wine. Serve it up with a French roll toaſted. and laid in the middle.
To make a rich Giblet Soup.
Take four pounds of gravy beef, two pounds of ſcrag of murton, two pounds of ſcrag of veal, ſtew them well down in a ſufficient quantity of water for a ſtrong broth; let it ſtand till it is quite cold, then ſkim the fat clean off. Take two pair of [55] giblets well ſcalded and cleaned, put them into your broth, and let them ſimmer till they are ſtewed tender; then take out your giblets, and run the ſoup through a fine ſieve to catch the ſmall bones; then take an ounce of butter, and put it into a ſtew⯑pan. mixing a proper quantity of flour, to make it of a fine light brown. Take a ſmall handful of chives, the ſame of parſley, and a very little ſweet-marjoram; chop all theſe herbs together exceſſive ſmall, ſet your ſoup over a ſlow fire, put in your giblets, butter and flour, and ſome herbs; then take a pint of Madeira wine, ſome Cayenne pep⯑per, and ſalt to your palate. Let them all ſimmer together, till the herbs are tender, and the ſoup is finiſhed. Send it to table with the giblets in it.
N. B. The livers muſt be ſtewed in a ſaucepan by themſelves, and put in the diſh when you ſerve it up.
To make good Peaſe Soup.
Take a quart of ſplit peaſe, put them into a gallon of ſoft water, with a bunch of herbs, ſome whole Jamaica and black pepper, two or three onions, a pound of lean beef, a pound of mutton, and a pound of the belly piece of ſalt pork; boil all together till your meat is thoroughly tender, and your ſoup ſtrong; then ſtrain it through a ſieve, and pour it into a clean ſaucepan; cut and waſh three or four large heads of celery, ſome ſpinach, and a little dried mint rubbed fine; boil it till your celery is tender, then ſerve it up with bread cut in dice, and fried brown.
To make Green Peaſe Soup.
Have a knuckle of veal of four pounds, a pint and a half of the oldeſt green peaſe ſhelled, ſet them over the fire with five quarts of water, add two or three blades of mace, a quarter of an ounce of [56] whole pepper, a ſmall onion ſtuck with three cloves, and a bunch of ſweet herbs, cover it cloſe, and let it boil till half is waſted; ſtrain it off, and paſs your liquor through a ſieve; put it into a clean ſaucepan, with a pint of the youngeſt peaſe, the heart of a cabbage, a lettuce or two, and the white part of three or four heads of celery cut ſmall, cover it cloſe, and let it ſtew for an hour. If you think it is not thick enough, take ſome of your ſoup, and put in half a ſpoonful of flour; ſtir it in a baſon till it is ſmooth, pour it in to your ſoup, ſtir it well together, and let it boil for ten minutes; then diſh it up with the cruſt of a French roll.
To make Vermicelli Soup.
Take two quarts of ſtrong veal broth, put it in⯑to a clean ſaucepan, with a piece of bacon ſtuck with cloves, and half an ounce of butter rolled in flour; then take a ſmall fowl truſſed to boil, break the breaſt bone, and put it into your ſoup; ſtove it cloſe, and let it ſtew three quarters of an hour; take about two ounces of vermicelli, and put to it ſome of the broth, ſet it over the fire till it is quite tender. When your ſoup is ready, take out the fowl, and put it into the diſh; take out your ba⯑con, ſkim your ſoup as ſoon as poſſible, then pour it on the fowl, and lay your vermicelli all over it; cut ſome French bread thin, put it into your ſoup, and ſend it to table.
If you chuſe it, you may make your ſoup with a knuckle of veal, and ſend a handſome piece of it in the middle of the diſh, inſtead of the fowl.
To make Soup Lorrain.
Have ready a ſtrong veal broth that is white, and clean ſcummed from all fat; blancn a pound of almonds, beat them in a mortar, with a little water, to prevent their oiling, and the yolks of [57] four poached eggs, the lean part of the legs, and all the white part of a roaſted fowl; pound all to⯑gether, as fine as poſſible; then take three parts of the veal broth, put it into a clean ſtewpan, put your ingredients in, and mix them well together; chip in the cruſt of two French rolls well raſped; boil all together over a ſtove, or a clear fire. Take a French roll, cut a piece out of the top, and take out all the crumb; mince the white part of a roaſted fowl very fine, ſeaſon it with pepper, ſalt, nutmeg, and a little beaten mace; put in about an ounce of butter, and moiſten it with two ſpoon⯑fuls of your ſoup ſtrained to it; ſet it over the ſtove to be thorough hot: Cut ſome French rolls in ſlices, and ſet them before to criſp; then ſtrain off your ſoup through a tammy or a lawn ſtrainer into another ſtew-pot; let it ſtew till it is as thick as cream; then have your diſh ready: put in ſome of your criſp bread; fill your roll with the mince, and lay on the top as cloſe as poſſible; put it in the middle of the diſh, and pour a ladleful of your ſoup over it; put in your bread firſt, then pour in the ſoup till the diſh is full. Garniſh with petty [...]atties, or make a rim for your diſh, and garniſh with lemon raced.
If you pleaſe, you may ſend a chicken, boned in the middle, inſtead of the roll; or you may ſend [...] to table with only criſp bread.
To make Sorrel Soup with Eggs.
Take the chump end of a loin of mutton, and art of a loin of veal, to make your ſtock with; aſon it with pepper, ſalt, cloves, mace, and a [...]nch of ſweet herbs; boil it till it is as rich as [...]u would have it; ſtrain it off, and put it into clean ſaucepan: Put in a young fowl, cover it [...]er, and ſtove it; then take three or four large [...]ndfuls of ſorrel waſhed clean, chop it groſly, [...] it in butter, put it to your ſoup, and let it boil [...] your fowl is thoroughly done; ſkim it clean, [58] and ſend it to table with the fowl in the middle, and ſix poached eggs placed round about it. Garniſh the diſh with ſippets and ſtewed ſorrel.
To make Aſparagus Soup.
Take five or ſix pounds of lean beef cut in lumps, and rolled in flour; put it in your ſtew⯑pan, with two or three ſlices of fat bacon at the bottom; then put it over a ſlow fire, and cover it cloſe, ſtirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn; then put in two quarts of water and half a pint of ale. Cover it cloſe, and let it ſtew gently for an hour, with ſome whole pepper, and ſalt to your mind; then ſtrain off the liquor, and take off the fat; put in the leaves of white beet, ſome ſpinach, ſome cabbage lettuce, a little mint, ſome ſorrel, and a little ſweet marjoram powdered; let theſe boil up in your liquor, then put in the green tops of aſparagus cut ſmall, and let them boil till all is tender. Serve it up hot, with a French roll in the middle.
To make a Craw-Fiſh Soup.
Cleanſe them, and boil them in water, ſalt, and ſpice; pull off their feet and tails, and fry them; break the reſt of them in a ſtone mortar, ſeaſon them with ſavory ſpice, and an onion, a hard egg, grated bread, and ſweet herbs boiled in good table beer, ſtrain it, and put to it ſcalded chopped parſley, and French rolls; then put in the fried craw-fiſh, with a few muſhrooms. Gar⯑niſh the diſh with ſliced lemon, and the feet and tail of a craw-fiſh.
To make Oyſter Soup.
Have ready a good fiſh ſtock, then take two quarts of oyſters without the beards; bray the [59] hard part in a mortar, with the yolks of ten hard eggs. Serve what quantity of fiſh ſtock you ſhall want over the fire with your oyſters; ſeaſon it with pepper, ſalt, and grated nutmeg. When it boils, put in the eggs, and let it boil till it is as thick as cream. Diſh it up with bread cut in dice.
To make a brown Soup.
Into a clean ſaucepan put three quarts, or more, of water, with raſpings ſufficient to thicken it, two or three onions cut acroſs, two or three cloves, ſome whole pepper, and a little ſalt; cover it cloſe, and let it boil about an hour and a half, then ſtrain it through a ſieve; have celery, carrots, endive, lettuce, ſpinach, and what other herbs you like, not cut too ſmall, and fry them in butter; take a clean ſtewpan, that is large enough for your ingredients; put in a good piece of butter, duſt in flour, and keep it ſtirring till it is of a fine brown; then pour in your herbs and ſoup, boil it till the herbs are tender, and the ſoup of a proper thick⯑neſs. Have bread cut in dice, and fried brown, pour your ſoup into the diſh, put ſome of the bread into the ſoup, the reſt in a plate, and ſerve it up.
To make a white Soup.
Put in a clean ſaucepan two or three quarts of water, the crumb of a two-penny loaf, with a bundle of herbs, ſome whole pepper, two or three cloves, an onion or two cut acroſs, and a little ſalt; let it boil covered till it is quite ſmooth; take celery, endive, and lettuce, only the white parts, cut them in pieces not too ſmall, and boil them till they are very tender, ſtrain your ſoup off into a clean ſtewpan, put your herbs in, with a [60] good piece of butter ſtirred in till the butter is melted, and let it boil for ſome time, till it is ſmooth. If any ſcum ariſes, take it off very clean: Soak a ſmall French roll, nicely raſped, in ſome of the ſoup, put it in the middle of the diſh, pour in your ſoup, and ſend it to table.
To make Onion Soup.
Firſt put a tea-kettle of water on to boil, then ſlice ſix Spaniſh onions, or ſome of the largeſt onions you have got, flour them pretty well, then put them into a ſtewpan that will hold about three quarts, fry them in butter till they are of a fine brown, but not burnt, pour in boiling water ſuf⯑ficient to fill the ſoup-diſh you intend, let it boil, and take half a pound of butter rolled in flour, break it in, and keep it ſtirring till your butter is melted; as it boils, ſkim it very well, and put a little pepper and ſalt; cut a French roll into ſlices, and ſet it before the fire to criſp: poach ſeven or eight eggs very nicely, cut off all the rag⯑ged parts of the white drain the water from them, and lay them upon every ſlice of roll; pour your ſoup into the diſh, and put the bread and eggs carefully into the diſh with a ſkimmer. If you have any ſpinach boiled, lay a leaf between every piece of roll, and ſend it to table.
If you have any Parmeſan cheeſe, ſcrape about an ounce very fine, and put it in when you pour on your boiling water; it gives it a very high flavor, and is not to be perceived by the taſte what it is.
To make Turnip Soup.
Pare a bunch of turnips (ſave out three or four) put them into a gallon of water, with half an ounce of white pepper, an onion ſtuck with [61] cloves, three blades of mace, half a nutmeg brui⯑ſed, a good bunch of ſweet herbs, and a large cruſt of bread. Boil them an hour and a half, then paſs them through a ſieve, clean a bunch of celery, cut it ſmall, and put it into your turnips and liquor with two of the turnips you ſaved, and two young carrots cut in dice, cover it cloſe, and let it ſtew; then cut two turnips and carrots in dice, flour them, and fry them brown in butter, with two large onions cut thin, and fried likewiſe; put them all into your ſoup, with ſome vermicelli; let it boil ſoftly till your celery is tender, and your ſoup is good. Seaſon it with ſalt to your palate.
To make Soup Meagre.
Take a bunch of celery waſhed clean, and cut in pieces, a large handful of ſpinach, two cabbage lettuces, and ſome parſley; waſh all very clean, and ſhred them ſmall; then take a large clean ſtewpan, put in about half a pound of butter, and when it is quite hot, ſlice four large onions very thin, and put into your butter; ſtir them well to⯑gether for two or three minutes; then put in the reſt of your herbs, ſhake all well together for near twenty minutes, duſt in ſome flour, and ſtir them together, pour in two quarts of boiling water, ſea⯑ſon with pepper, ſalt, and beaten mace: Chip a handful of cruſt of bread, and put in, boil it half an hour, then beat up the yolks of three eggs in a ſpoonful of vinegar, pour it in, ſtir it for two or three minutes, and then ſend it to table.
To make Eel Soup.
Take eels according to the quantity of ſoup you would make; a pound of eels will make a pint of very good ſoup, ſo to every pound of eels put a [...]
To make a ſtanding Sauce.
[64]Take a quart of claret, or white wine, put it in a glazed jar, with the juice of two lemons, five anchovies, ſome whole Jamaica pepper, ſome ſliced ginger, ſome mace, a few cloves, a little lemon-peel, horſe-radiſh ſliced, ſome ſweet herbs, ſix ſhalots, two ſpoonfuls of capers, and their liquor; put all theſe in a linen bag, and put it into the wine, ſtop it cloſe, ſet the veſſel in a kettle of hot water for an hour, and keep it in a warm place. A ſpoonful or two of this liquor is good to any ſauce.
Of FRICASEES.
To fricaſee Lamb Stones and Sweetbreads.
HAVE ready ſome lamb-ſtones blanched, par⯑boiled, and ſliced, and flour two or three ſweet⯑breads; if very thick, cut them in two; the yolks of ſix hard eggs whole, a few piſtachio nut kernels, and a ſew large oyſters; fry all theſe of a fine brown, then pour away the butter, and add a pint of drawn gravy, the lamb-ſtones, ſome aſpa⯑ragus tops of about an inch long, ſome grated nutmeg, a little pepper and ſalt, two ſhalots ſhred ſmall, and a glaſs of white wine. Stew all theſe together for ten minutes, then add the yolks of ſix eggs beat very fine, with a little white wine, and a little mace; ſtir all together till it is of a fine thickneſs, and then diſh it up. Garniſh with lemon.
To fricaſee Chickens.
[65]Half roaſt the chickens, then having cut them up, as for eating, ſkin them, and put them into a ſtewpan with a little white gravy, the juice of a lemon, an anchovy for every chicken, with a ſuf⯑ficient quantity of mace and nutmeg grated, and then boil them. Take alſo the yolks of eggs, as much as neceſſary, a little ſweet cream, and ſhred parſley; then put them into a ſtewpan with a lump of butter and a little ſalt; ſhake them all the time they are over the fire, but do not let them boil, for that would make them curdle. Serve it up poured upon ſippets, and garniſh the diſh with ſliced lemon, or pickled muſhrooms.
To fricaſee a Hare.
Boil the hare with apples, onions, and parſley; when it is tender, ſhred it ſmall, then put thereto a pint of red wine, one nutmeg, a little pepper and ſalt, and two or three anchovies; ſtir theſe together, with the yolks of twelve hard eggs ſhred ſmall; when it is ſerved up, put in as much melted butter as will make it moiſt. Garniſh the diſh with ſome of the bones, and the whites of eggs boiled [...]ard, and cut in halves.
To fricaſee Rabbits.
Half roaſt two young rabbits, then ſkin and cut them to pieces, uſing only the whiteſt parts, which [...]ou muſt put into a ſtewpan, with a ſufficient quantity of white gravy, a ſmall anchovy, a little onion, ſhred mace, grated lemon-peel, and nutmeg [...]rated; let it have one boil. Then take a little cream, the yolks of two eggs, a lump of butter, a little juice of lemon, and ſhred parſley; put them [...] together in a ſtewpan, and ſhake them over the [...]re till they are as white as cream; but do not [...] the mixture boil, for it will curdle if it does. Garniſh the diſh with ſliced lemon and pickles.
Of RAGOUTS.
[68]A Ragout of Snipes.
Take two brace of ſnipes, clean picked, put piece of butter into a ſtewpan, and give you ſnipes a browining; then cut them down the back and preſs them flat, but do not take out the tail put them into a ſtewpan with ſome good gravy, ſmall glaſs of red wine, a gill of ſmall muſhrooms a little beaten mace, and ſalt: Let them ſtew [...] or ſix minutes, then roll a piece of butter in flour. When it is the thickneſs of cream, ſkim it clea [...] and diſh them up. Garniſh your diſh with toaſted ſippets, and orange cut in ſmall quarters.
A Ragout of Eggs.
Boil ſix eggs hard; then take large muſhroom peel and ſcrape them clean, put them into a ſauce pan, with a little ſalt, cover them, and let the boil; put to them a gill of red wine, a good piece of butter rolled in flour, ſeaſoned with mace and nutmeg; let it boil till it is of a good thickneſs cut the white of your eggs round ſo that you do not break the yolks; lay ſome toaſted ſippets in your diſh, with the yolks of eggs; then pour over your ragout. Garniſh your diſh with the whites; [...] the flat ſide uppermoſt, and a Seville orange be⯑tween.
To ragoo Sturgeon.
Cut ſturgeon into collops, lard, and rub [...] over with an egg, duſt on ſome flour, and fry [...] of a fine brown in lard: As ſoon as they are [...] put them into a ſtewpan, with a pint of [...] gravy, ſome ſweet herbs ſhred fine, ſome ſlices lemon, veal ſweetbreads cut in pieces, [...] muſhrooms, and a glaſs of white wine; bind with a good cullis till it is of a proper thickness then take off the ſcum very clean, diſh it up, [...] garniſh it with barberries and lemon.
To ragoo Oyſters.
[69]Open four dozen of the largeſt Melton oyſters, [...] ſave the liquor; make a thick batter with [...] the yolks of eggs, nutmeg grated, and [...] chopped fine: Dip the oyſters into the [...]tter, and then roll them in bread crumbs, and [...] them of a fine brown; when they are fried, [...] them up, and lay them on a drainer before [...] fire; empty your pan, and duſt ſome flour all [...] it, then put in about two ounces of butter: When it is melted and thick, ſtrain in your oyſter [...], and ſtir it well together; put in two ounces [...] Piſtachio nuts ſhelled, and let them boil; then [...] in half a pint of white wine, beat up the yolks [...] two eggs in four ſpoonfuls of cream, and ſtir all together till it is of a proper thickneſs; lay the [...] in the diſh, and pour the ragout over. Gar⯑niſh the diſh with a Seville orange cut in ſome [...] quarters.
To ragoo a Piece of Beef, called Beef A-la-mode.
Take a buttock of beef, interlarded with great [...], rolled up with chopped ſpice, ſage, par⯑ [...], thyme, and green onions; hind it cloſe [...] coarſe tape, and put it into a large ſauce- [...] —When it is half done, turn it; let it and over the fire on a ſtove twelve hours. It is [...] to eat cold or hot. When it is cold, ſlice it [...] thin, and [...]oſs it up in a fine ragout of ſweet⯑breads, oyſters, muſhrooms, and palates.
To ragoo a Breaſt of Veal.
Put a breaſt of veal, with an onion, a bundle of [...]eet herbs, a little black pepper and grated nut⯑meg, a blade or two of mace, and a very little lemon-peel grated into a large ſtew, and juſt cover [...] with water; when it grows tender, take it up [...] bone it.
[70] Put the bones into the liquor, and boil them [...] they make good gravy; then ſtrain it off. Add [...] this liquor a quarter of a pint of rich beef gravy half an ounce of truffles and morels, a ſpoonful [...] catchup, and two ſpoonfuls of white wine. While theſe are boiling together, flour the veal, and [...] it in butter till it comes to be of a fine brown; then drain off the butter, and pour the gravy to the veal, with a few muſhrooms.
Boil all together till the liquor becomes rich and thick, cut the ſweetbread into four, and ſpread the pieces and forced-meat balls over the diſh, having firſt laid the veal in the diſh, and poured the ſauce all over it. Garniſh with ſliced lemon.
To ragoo a Neck of Veal.
Cut it into ſteaks, flatten them with a rolling⯑pin, lard them with bacon, and ſeaſon them with a mixture of ſalt, pepper, grated nutmeg, mace, lemon-peel and thyme; then dip each ſteak ſe⯑parately in the yolks of eggs. Put all together into a ſtewpan, over a ſlow fire, and keep baſting and turning the ſteaks in order to keep in the gravy. When they are done ſufficiently, diſh them with half a pint of ſtrong gravy, ſeaſoned high, adding muſhrooms, pickles, and forced-meat ball dipped in the yolks of eggs. Garniſh with ſtewed and fried oyſters.
If you intend a brown ragout, put in a glaſs of red wine; if a white ragout, put in white wine, with the yolks of eggs beaten up with two or three ſpoonfuls of cream.
To ragoo a Leg of Mutton.
Take off the fat and ſkin, and cut the fleſh very thin, the right way of the grain. Butter the ſtewpan, duſt it with flour, and put in the meat, with half a lemon and half an onion cut very ſmall, [71] a blade of mace, and a little bundle of ſweet herbs, ſtir it a minute or two; then put in a quarter of a pint of gravy, and an anchovy minced ſmall, mixed with butter and flour. Stir it again for ſix minutes, and then diſh it up.
Of POTTING.
For Potting Beef.
TAKE a leg of mutton piece of twelve pounds, cut it into pound pieces, and ſalt it as for collar of beef; let it lie ſix days, put it in a pan covered with pump-water, and bake it with houſhold⯑bread; when it comes out of the oven, take it put of the liquor, beat it in a ſtone mortar; then ſeaſon it with an ounce of pepper, half an ounce of cloves and mace, mix it into a pound of clarified butter, put it cloſe into your pot, and cover it with clarified butter on the top half an inch thick.
To Pot Pigeons, or any other Fowls.
Your pigeons being truſſed and ſeaſoned with ſavory ſpice, put them in a pot, cover them with butter, and bake them; then take them out and [...]rain them, and when they are cold, cover them with clarified butter. The ſame way you may pot diſh, only bone them when they are baked.
For Potting Tongues.
Take two tongues, ſalt them with ſaltpetre, white ſalt, and brown ſugar; bake them tender [72] in pump-water, then blanch them, cut off the roots, and ſeaſon with pepper and ſpice. Put them in an oval pot, and cover all over with cla⯑rified butter.
For Potting a Hare.
Bone your hare, and take away all the ſkinny part, then put to the fleſh ſome good fat bacon and ſavory herbs; ſeaſon it with mace, nutmeg, and pepper, and a little ſalt, then beat all this fine in a mortar; put it down an hour and a half, and when it comes up, pour out all the gravy, and fill it up with clarified butter.
For Potting Cheſhire Cheeſe.
Put three pounds of Cheſhire cheeſe into a mor⯑tar, then take a pound of the beſt freſh butter you can get, pound them together, and in the beating add a glaſs or two of Canary, and half an ounce of mace, ſo finely beat and ſifted, that it cannot be diſcerned. When all is well mixed, preſs it hard down into a pan, cover it with melted butter, and keep it cloſe.
A ſlice of this upon bread eats very fine.
To collar Pork.
Bone a breaſt of pork, ſeaſon it with ſavory ſea⯑ſoning, a good quantity of thyme, parſley and ſage; then roll it in a nard collar in a cloth, tie it at both ends, and boil it, and, when it is cold, ſteep it in the ſavory liquor in which it was boiled.
Of PIES.
[73]A Neat's Tongue Pie.
HALF boil the tongues, blanch them and ſlice them, ſeaſon them with ſavory ſeaſoning, ſliced lemon, balls, and butter; then cloſe the pie. When it is baked, take gravy and veal ſweetbreads, ox palates, and cocks-combs toſſed up, and pour them into the pie.
A Lamb Pie.
Seaſon the lamb-ſteaks, lay them in the pie with ſliced lamb-ſtones and ſweetbreads, ſavory⯑balls, and oyſters. Lay on butter, and cloſe the pie with a lear.
A Lamb Pie with Currants.
Take a leg and a loin of lamb, cut the fleſh into ſmall pieces, and ſeaſon it with a little ſalt, cloves, mace, and nutmeg; then lay the lamb in your paſte, with as many currants as you think proper, and ſome Liſbon ſugar, a few raiſins ſtoned and chopped ſmall; add ſome forced-meat balls, yolks of hard eggs, with artichoke bottoms, or potatoes that have been boiled and cut in dice, with can⯑died orange and lemon-peel cut in ſlices; put butter on the top, and a little water, then cloſe your pie, bake it gently; when it is baked take off the top and put in your caudle made of gravy from the bones, ſome white wine and juice of le⯑mon; thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, and a bit of butter. When you pour in your caudle, [74] let it be hot, and ſhake it well in the pie; then ſerve it, having laid on the cover.
N. B. If you obſerve too much fat ſwimming on the liquor of your pie, take it off before you pour in your caudle.
A Mutton Pie.
Seaſon the mutton ſteaks, fill the pie, lay on butter, and cloſe it. When it is baked, toſs up a handful of chopped capers, cucumbers and oyſters, in gravy, with an anchovy and drawn butter.
A Veal Pie.
Raiſe a high round pie, then cut a fillet of veal into three or four pieces, ſeaſon it with ſavory ſea⯑ſoning, and a little minced ſage and ſweet herbs; lay it in the pie with ſlices of bacon at the bottom, and between each piece lay on butter, and cloſe the pie. When it is baked, and half cold, fill it up with clarified butter.
A Hen Pie.
Cut it in pieces, and lay it in the pie; lay on balls, ſliced lemon, butter, and cloſe it with the yolks of hard eggs; let the lear be thickened with eggs.
A Chicken Pie.
Take ſix ſmall chickens, roll a piece of butter in ſweet herbs, ſeaſon and lay them into a cover, with the marrow of two bones rolled up in the batter of eggs, a dozen of yolks of eggs boiled hard, and two dozen of ſavory balls; when you ſerve it up, pour in a quart of good white gravy.
A ſweet Chicken Pie.
[75]Break the bones of four chickens, then cut them into ſmall pieces, ſeaſon them highly with mace, cinnamon, and ſalt; have four yolks of eggs boiled hard and quartered, and five artichoke bottoms, eight ounces of raiſins of the ſun ſtoned, eight ounces of preſerved citron, lemon, and eringo-roots, of each alike; eight ounces of marrow, four ſlices of rinded lemon, eight ounces of currants, fifty balls of forced-meat, made as for umble-pie; put ſin all, one with the other, but firſt butter the bot⯑tom of the pie, and put in a pound of freſh butter on the top lid, and bake it; then put in a pint of white wine mixed with a little ſack, and (if you will) the juice of two oranges, ſweetening it to your taſte. Make it boil, and thicken it with the yolks of two eggs; put it to the pie when both are very hot, and ſerve it up.
A Turkey Pie.
Bone the turkey, ſeaſon it with ſavory ſpice, and [...]ay it in the pie, with two young fowls cut to pieces, to fill up the corners. A gooſe pie is made the ſame way, with two rabbits, to fill it up as afore⯑ſaid.
A Pigeon Pie.
Truſs and ſeaſon the pigeons with ſavory ſpices, and ſtuff them with forced-meat; lay on lamb-ſtones, ſweetbreads, and butter; cloſe the pie with a lear. A chicken or capon pie may be made the ſame way.
A Battalia Pie.
Take four ſmall chickens, ſquab pigeons, and four ſucking rabbits, cut them in pieces; and ſeaſon them with ſavory ſpice; lay them in the pie with [76] four ſweetbreads ſliced, as many ſheeps tongue and ſhivering palates, two pair of lamb-ſtones twenty or thirty cocks-combs, with ſavory ball and oyſters; lay on butter, and cloſe the pie with a lear.
A Lamb-ſtone and Sweetbread Pie.
Boil, blanch, and ſlice them, and ſeaſon them with ſavory ſeaſoning; lay them in the pie with ſliced artichoke bottoms; put on butter, and cloſe the pie with a lear.
A Calf's Head Pie.
Almoſt boil the calf's-head, take out the bones, cut it in thin ſlices, ſeaſon and mix it with ſliced ſhivered palates, cocks combs, oyſters, muſhrooms, and balls. Lay on butter, and cloſe the pie with a lear.
A Minced Pie.
Shred a pound of neat's tongue parboiled, with two pounds of beef ſuet, five pippins, and a green lemon-peel; ſeaſon it with an ounce of ſpice, a little ſalt, a pound of ſugar, two pounds of currants, half a pint of ſack, a little brandy, the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a pound of citron, lemon and orange-peel. Mix theſe together, and fill the pies.
A Carp Pie.
To a quartern of flour put two pounds of but⯑ter, rubbing a third part in; make it into paſte with water, then roll in the reſt of the butter at three times; lay your paſte in the diſh, put in ſome bits of butter on the bottom paſte, with pep⯑per and ſalt; ſcale and gut your carps, put them in vinegar, water, and ſalt; then waſh them out of the vinegar and water, wipe them dry, and make [77] the following pudding for the belly of the carp: Take the fleſh of an eel, cut it ſmall, add ſome grated bread, two buttered eggs, an anchovy cut ſmall, a little nutmeg grated, with pepper and ſalt. Mix theſe together well, and fill the belly of the carp; then make ſome forced-meat balls or the ſame mixture, cut off the tail and ſins of the carp, and lay in the cruſt, with ſlices of fat bacon, a little mace, and ſome bits of butter; cloſe your pie, and before you ſee it in the oven, pour in half a pint of claret. Serve it up hot.
An Oyſter Pie.
Parboil a quart of large oyſters in their own li⯑quor, mince them ſmall, and pound them in a mortar, with Piſtachio nuts, marrow and ſweet herbs, an onion, ſavory ſeeds, and a little grated bread, or ſeaſon as afroreſaid whole. Lay on butter, cloſe it, and ſerve it up hot.
A Flounder Pie.
Take twelve large flounders, cut off their tails, [...], and heads, and then ſeaſon them with pepper and ſalt, cloves, mace and nutmeg beaten fine. Take two or three eels well cleaned, cut in lengths of three inches, and ſeaſon as before; then lay [...]our flounders and eels in your pie, and the yolks of eight hard eggs, half a pint of pickled muſh⯑rooms, an anchovy, a little onion, a bunch of ſweet herbs, and ſome lemon-peel grated. You muſt put three quarters of a pound of butter on the top, with a quarter of a pint of water, and a [...]ill of white wine; then cloſe your pie, and ſerve it hot, firſt taking out the onion and bunch of ſweet herbs.
A Trout Pie.
Clean, waſh, and ſcale them, lard them with [...]ieces of a ſilver eel rolled up in ſpice, and ſweet [78] herbs, with bay leaves powdered; lay on and between them the bottoms of ſliced artichokes, muſhrooms, oyſters, capers, and ſliced lemon; lay on butter, and cloſe the pie.
An Eel Pie.
Cut, waſh, and ſeaſon them with ſweet ſeaſoning, and a handful of currants; butter and cloſe it.— Some omit the currants.
A Lamprey Pie.
Clean, waſh, and ſeaſon them with ſweet ſeaſon⯑ing; lay them in a coffin with citron and lemon ſliced; butter and cloſe the pie.
An Egg Pie.
Shred the yolks of twenty hard eggs, with the ſame quantity of marrow and beef ſuet; ſeaſon it with ſweet ſpice, citron, orange and lemon; fill and cloſe the pie.
An Apple or Pear Pie.
Make a good puff-paſte cruſt, lay ſome round the ſides of the diſh, pare and quarter your apples, and take out the cores; lay a row of apples thick, throw in half the ſugar you intend for your pie, mince a little lemon-peel fine, throw a few cloves, here and there one, then the reſt of your apples, and the reſt of your ſugar. You muſt ſweeten to your palate, and ſqueeze in a little lemon-juice. Boil the peeling of the apples and the cores in water, with a blade of mace, till it is very good, ſtrain it, and boil the ſyrup with ſugar till it is rich. pour it into the pie, put on your upper cruſt, and bake. You may put in a little quince or marmalade, if you pleaſe.
Thus make a pear-pie, but don't put in any quinces. You may butter them when they come [79] out of the oven, or beat up the yolks of two eggs, and half a pint of cream, with a little nutmeg, ſweetened with ſugar; take off the lid, and pour in the cream. Cut the cruſt in little three-cornered pieces, ſtick them about the pie, and ſend it to table.
A Cherry, Plumb, or Gooſeberry Pie.
Make a good cruſt, lay a little round the ſides of your diſh, throw ſugar at the bottom, and lay in your fruit, with ſugar on the top. A few red cur⯑rants do well with them; put on your lid, and bake it in a ſlack oven.
Make a plumb pie the ſame way, and alſo a gooſeberry pie. If you would have it red, let it ſtand a good while in the oven after the bread is drawn. A cuſtard is very good with the gooſeberry pie.
Of TARTS, &c.
To make Iceing for Tarts.
Having beat and ſifted a quarter of a pound of double refined ſugar, put it into a mortar, with two ſpoonfuls of roſe water, and the white of one egg; beat all together for half an hour, and then lay it on your tarts with a feather.
To make Tarts of various Kinds.
When you deſign to make your tarts in tin patty⯑pans, firſt butter the pans, and then lay a thin rich cruſt all over them; but when you make them in glaſs or china diſhes, you need not put any cruſt except the upper one; ſcatter fine ſugar on the bot⯑tom, then put in your fruit, and ſtrew ſugar over it. Let your tarts be baked in a ſlack oven.
If tarts be made of apricots, &c. you muſt neither pare them, nor cut them, nor ſtone them, nor uſe [80] lemon-juice, which is the only material difference between theſe and other fruit.
Obſerve, with reſpect to preſerved tarts, only lay in the preſerved fruit, and put a very thin cruſt over them, and bake them as ſhort a time as poſſible.
To make Puff Paſte.
Take a quartern of flour, mix with it half a pound of butter, and make it up into a light paſte with water; then roll out your paſte, ſtick pieces of butter all over it, and duſt it with a little flour; fold it up, then roll it out again; after this put in more butter, flour it, fold it up, and roll it out; repeat this till your paſte is of a proper conſiſtence.
A Paſte for Tarts.
Of flour, butter, and ſugar, take half a pound each, mix them up together, beat it well with a rolling-pin, and roll it out thin.
A Paſte for raiſed Pies.
You muſt boil ſix pounds of butter in a gallon of water, and when it is melted, ſkim it off into a peck of flour, work it up into a paſte, pull it in lumps till it is cold, and make it up in whatever form you pleaſe. This is a very good cruſt for a gooſe pie.
An excellent Paſte for Pattypans.
Take three or four eggs, half a pound of butter, a pound of flour, and two ounces of fine ſugar; work it all up into a paſte.
A Paſte for Cuſtards.
Mix half a pound of flour with three or four ſpoon⯑fuls of cream, ſix ounces of butter, and the yolks of two eggs; when mixed, let it ſtand a quarter of an hour, then work it up well, and roll it out thin.
Of PUDDINGS.
[81]General Directions with regard to Puddings.
WHEN you boil puddings, take great care that your bag or cloth be very clean; dip it in hot water, and flour it well. You muſt always let the water boil before you put in the pudding, and you ſhould frequently move your pudding in the pot, to prevent it from ſticking. When your pudding is boiled, juſt dip it in a pan of clean cold water, then untie the cloth, and the pudding will turn out without ſticking to the cloth. In all baked puddings you muſt butter the pan or diſh before your pudding is poured in.
To make a Bread Pudding.
Having cut the crumb of a penny loaf into thin ſlices, pour over it a quart of boiling milk, cover it up cloſe, and let it ſtand ſome hours to [...]oak; then beat it well with ſome melted butter, the yolks and whites of a few eggs, a little ſalt, and ſome grated nutmeg; tie your pudding looſe in the cloth, and let it boil about three quarters of an hour: when it is done, lay it in your diſh, and pour on it melted butter and ſugar. You may, if you pleaſe, put ſome currants in your pudding, before you boil it.
A baked Bread Pudding.
You muſt put a quarter of a pound of butter into a pint of milk or cream, [...]et it over the fire, [82] and ſtir it well; as ſoon as the butter is melted, add to the milk a ſufficiency of crumbled bread, three or four eggs, half a pound of currants pick⯑ed and waſhed clean, a good deal of ſugar, ſome grated nutmeg, ginger, and a little ſalt; mix all up together, pour it in a butter'd diſh, and ſend it to the oven.
To make a plain boiled Pudding.
Mix with a pint of milk ſix eggs well beaten, two or three ſpoonfuls of flour, ſome ſugar, a little grated nutmeg and ſalt; put this mixture into a bag or cloth, then put it in your pot, and when it has boiled an hour, ſerve it up with melted butter over it.
A Batter Pudding.
Take a quart of milk, five or ſix ſpoonfuls of flour, ſix eggs, a little ſalt and beaten ginger; mix the whole up together, boil it an hour, and ſend it to table with melted butter and ſugar.
A Rice Pudding.
Put half a pound of rice (either ground or other⯑wiſe) into three pints of milk, and boil it well; when it is almoſt cold, mix it with ſeven or eight beaten eggs, half a pound of butter, ſome cinna⯑mon, mace, and nutmeg, and half a pound of ſugar; you may either boil or bake it.
A Marrow Pudding.
Slice a penny loaf into a quart of boiling cream or milk; add to it a pound of beef marrow ſhred fine, the yolks of eight eggs, three ſpoonfuls of roſe-water, a glaſs of brandy or ſack, a quarter of a pound of currants, ſome candied citron, and lemon ſliced thin, grated nutmeg, and ſugar; mix [83] all together, and either boil it or ſend it to the oven to bake. Stick pieces of citron all over the top of your pudding when you ſerve it up.
A Cuſtard Pudding.
Take the yolks of ſix eggs well beaten, two ſpoonfuls of flour, ſome ſugar and grated nutmeg; mix all together in a pint of new milk or cream, and boil it half an hour; when you ſerve it up, pour in the diſh ſome melted butter mixed with a little white wine. Baked cuſtard pudding is equally good.
To make a baked Apple Pudding.
You muſt boil your apples tender, and bruiſe them through a ſieve; add to them a quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of eight eggs, a pound of loaf ſugar, a pint of cream, ſome lemon-juice, and grated nutmeg; mix all together, put a thin puff-paſte on the bottom and rims of your diſh, pour the pudding in, and let it be baked in a ſlack oven.
A Lemon Pudding.
Firſt grate the rinds of four lemons, then grate two Naples buiſcuits, and mix them with your lemon-peel; add three quarters of a pound of white ſugar, the like quantity of melted butter, twelve yolks of eggs and ſix whites, the juice of two or three lemons, and half a pint of cream or milk, beat the whole up together, lay a thin cruſt all over your diſh, and having put in your pudding, ſend it to the oven to bake. An orange pudding may be made the ſame way.
A Steak Pudding.
Take a quartern of flour, and two pounds of ſuet chopped fine, and mix it up with cold water [84] into a good paſte; then ſeaſon your ſteaks (which may be either mutton or beef) with pepper and ſalt, lay them in the cruſt, and cloſe it up; tie your pudding in a cloth, and put it into the pot. A large ſteak-pudding takes four or five hours boiling; a ſmall one will be done in three hours.
To make a Tanſey Pudding.
To a pint of cream put ten eggs, well beaten, and ſome grated bread; ſeaſon it with nutmeg, ſome ſugar, and a little ſalt; green it well with the juice of tanſey and ſpinach, mix it up together, put it in a ſtewpan, with a lump of butter, ſet it over a ſlow fire, and when it is of a proper thick⯑neſs, put it in a buttered diſh, and bake it. Lay ſweetmeats over it when you ſerve it up.
A Sweetmeat Pudding.
Lay a thin paſte all over your diſh, and cover the bottom with candied orange, citron, and lemon⯑peel ſliced thin; then beat up the yolks of eight eggs with half a pound of melted butter, and ſeven or eight ounces of ſugar; pour this mixture on your ſweetmeats, and bake it in a ſlack oven.
An Almond Pudding.
You muſt beat a pound of ſweet almonds very fine, with a gill of ſack, and three or four ſpoonfuls of roſe-water; add near half a pound of ſugar, a quart of cream, the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four, half a pound of butter melted, two ſpoonfuls of flour and bread crumbs, ſome grated nutmeg and cinnamon; mix all well together, and either boil or bake it.
Of CAKES, &c.
[85]To make a good Seed Cake.
TAKE a quartern of flour, two pounds of butter beaten to a cream, a pound and a half of fine ſugar, ten yolks of eggs and five whites, ſome beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon, three or four ounces of carraway-ſeeds, half a pint of cream, two or three ounces of candied citron and orange-peel, a little new yeaſt, and a ſpoonful or two of roſe-water; mix the whole well together, and put it in a tin hoop, which muſt be papered at the bottom, and buttered; it will take an hour and a half, or two hours in a quick oven. When it is baked, you may ice it over with ſugar and the whites of eggs, and then ſet it again in the oven to harden.
A Pound Cake.
You muſt beat a pound of butter till it is like fine thick cream, then mix with it twelve yolks of eggs and five whites, a pound of flour, a few carraways, and a pound of ſugar; beat it all well together for an hour, then put it in a butter'd pan, and bake it an hour in a briſk-oven. Some people put currants in it.
To make a fine rich Cake.
Take two pounds of freſh butter beat to a cream, a pound of double refined ſugar, a quartern and a half of fine flour, a pint of ſweet wine, a quart of cream, five or ſix pounds of currants, a pint of yeaſt, two nutmegs grated, ſome candied orange, lemon, and citron, a little orange-flower, or roſe-water, ſome cinnamon, mace, ginger, and cloves; [86] knead the whole well together; then put it into your hoop, and let it bake upwards of two hours.
A good Plumb Cake.
To a pound and half of fine flour, add a pound of currants, half a pound of raiſins ſtoned and chopped ſmall, ten or twelve eggs (but only half the whites) a pound of butter worked to a cream, a gill of white wine or brandy, a pound of ſugar, a little orange-flower water, ſome candied citron. orange, and lemon, a few ſweet almonds pounded, a little beaten mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon; when you have beat it all together about an hour, put it in the hoop, and ſend it to the oven: It will take two hours baking.
Shrewſbury Cakes.
Take half a pound of fine flour, the ſame quan⯑tity of butter beat up to a cream, one or two eggs, half a pound of loaf ſugar beat and ſifted, half an ounce of carraway-ſeeds, and two ſpoonfuls of roſe-water; mix it all up into a paſte, roll it thin, and cut it into little cakes, which muſt be laid on ſheets of tin, and ſent to the oven.
To make Gingerbread Cakes.
You muſt take a pound of ſugar, three pounds of flour, a pound of treacle made warm, ſome beaten mace, nutmeg, and ginger, a pound of melted butter, a gill of cream, and a few coriander ſeeds; mix all together to the conſiſtence of a paſte; roll it out, and cut it into thin cakes, or roll it round in the ſhape of nuts. Let them be baked in a ſlack oven on tin plates.
To make Macaroons.
[87]Take a pound of fine ſugar, the whites of ſix or ſeven eggs, a pound of ſweet almonds blanched and pounded, and a ſpoonful or two of roſe-water; beat all well together, ſhape your cakes on wafer-paper, grate a little ſugar over them, and bake them on plates of tin.
To make Biſcuits.
Take eight eggs well beaten, put to them a pound of fine powdered ſugar, ſome grated lemon⯑peel, a little roſe-water, an ounce of coriander⯑ſeeds, and a pound of flour; mix the whole up together, ſhape it into biſcuits on wafer-paper, in whatever form you pleaſe, duſt fine ſugar over them, and bake them.
To make good Pancakes.
Take eight yolks of eggs and four whites, a pint of cream or milk, three or four ſpoonfuls of ſack, a little ſugar, a quarter of a pound of butter melted, half a pint of flour, ſome grated nutmeg and ſalt; mix it all together, and pour as much of it into your frying-pan as will make one pancake; ſhake the pan, and when one ſide of the pancake is enough, turn it, and do the other ſide; then take it out, and fry the reſt in the ſame manner. When you diſh them up, ſtrew ſugar over them.
To make good Fritters.
Add to a pint of thick cream five or ſix beaten eggs (but leave out three of the whites) a little brandy or ſack, ſome grated nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, and ſalt; make this up into a thick batter with flour, then pare and chop a few golden pippins, mix them with the batter, and fry your [88] fritters of a light brown in boiling lard; ſerve them up with ſugar ſcattered over them. For change, you may put currants in the fritters.
OF CHEESECAKES, CUSTARDS, CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, JELLIES, JAMS, &c.
To make fine Cheeſecakes.
TAKE three quarters of a pound of butter melted, three or four ounces of ſweet almonds blanched and beat fine, the curd of a gallon of new milk, three Naples biſcuits grated, the yolks of ſeven eggs, half a pound of currants, ſome beaten cinnamon and nutmeg, half a pound of fine ſugar, two or three ſpoonfuls of ſack, and a little roſe or orange flower water; mix all theſe well together, have ready ſome pattypans lined with rich cruſt, pour ſome of your mixture into each, and bake your cheeſecakes in a gentle oven.
To make Rice Cheeſecakes.
To five or ſix ounces of rice boiled ſoft, add near half a pound of melted butter, ſix or ſeven ounces of loaf ſugar, half a nutmeg grated, four yolks of eggs beat up, a glaſs of brandy or ratafia, half a pint of cream or milk made warm, and a little cinnamon; beat up all together, and bake the cheeſecakes in raiſed cruſts or pattypans.
To make Lemon or Orange Cheeſecakes.
Firſt boil the rind of two large lemons or oranges, then pound it well in a mortar, with the yolks of half a dozen eggs, half a pound of butter [89] beat to a cream, and about ſix ounces of fine ſugar; mix the whole up together, lay a thin puff-paſte in your pattypains, pour into them your mixed ingre⯑dients, and ſet them in the oven.
To make common Cuſtards.
You muſt ſweeten a quart of cream or new milk to your palate; then grate in ſome nutmeg and cinnamon, beat up the yolks of eight eggs with a little roſe-water, and ſtir them into your cream or milk; mix it up well, and bake it in cruſts or china cups, or you may put it into a deep china bowl, and ſet it in a kettle of boiling water, but do not let the water get into the bowl.
To make a Rice Cuſtard.
Boil a quart of cream with ſome ground rice, a little mace and nutmeg: ſtir it well together all the while it is boiling, and, when it is enough, ſweeten it to your taſte, and put in a little orange flower or roſe-water. Serve it up either cold or hot.
Almond Cuſtards.
To a quarter of a pound of almonds blanched and pounded, add a quart of cream, two ſpoonfuls of roſe-water, the yolks of four or five eggs, ſome mace and cinnamon; mix it all together, ſweeten it as you like, ſet it on the ſire, and keep ſtirring it till it is of a proper thickneſs; then pour it into cups, and ſend it to table; or you may bake your aimond cuſtards in china cups.
To make Lemon or Orange Cream.
Take the juice of four large lemons or Seville oranges, half a pint of ſpring water, the whites [90] of five or ſix eggs, and the yolks of four well⯑beaten, a pint of cream boiled, and a pound of double refined ſugar beaten fine; mix the whole up well together, ſet it in a toſſing-pan over a gentle fire, put into it the peel of one orange or lemon, and keep ſtirring it one way all the time it is on the fire; when your cream is almoſt ready to boil, take out the peel, and pour the cream into china bowls, or jelly glaſſes.
Almond Cream.
Firſt boil a quart of cream with a blade or two of mace, a piece of lemon peel, and ſome grated nutmeg; then take four ounces of almonds blanched and beat very fine, the whites of eight or nine eggs well beaten, and a ſpoonful or two of roſe-water; mix theſe up with your cream, ſweeten it to your taſte, ſet it over the fire, ſtir it well till it is thick, and then pour it into glaſſes.
Whipt Cream.
Take the whites of eight eggs well beat, half a pint of ſack, and a quart of good cream boiled; mix it all together, and ſweeten it with fine ſugar; whip it up with a whiſk that has a piece of lemon⯑peel tied in the middle, ſkim off the froth, and put the mixture in glaſſes and baſons.
To make a good Syllabub.
Having put a quart of cyder into a china bowl, grate a ſmall nutmeg into it, and ſweeten it with double refined ſugar; then put into your liquor ſome new milk, freſh from the cow, and pour over that ſome nice cream.
To make a Whipt Syllabub.
[91]To half a pint of Canary wine, add half a pound of fine ſugar, the whites of three or four eggs, and [...] quart of cream; whip it up with a whiſk till it froths, then ſkim it, and pour it into your ſyllabub glaſſes.
To make a Trifle.
Take a deep diſh or bowl, cover the bottom with macaroons broke in two, ratafia cakes, and Naples biſcuits broke in pieces; juſt moiſten them with a little ſack, then make a light boiled cuſtard, and when it is cold put it over your macaroons, &c. and over that pour a fine ſyllabus.
To make Currant Jelly.
Firſt pick the currants from the ſtalks, then put them into a ſtone jar, cover it cloſe, ſet it in a kettle of boiling water, and when it has boiled about half an hour, take it out, and ſtrain off the juice of your currants; to every quart of juice add a pound and a half of loaf ſugar, ſet it over a briſk clear fire, ſtir it gently till the ſugar is melted, ſkim it well, and let it boil twenty minutes, or half an hour; then pour your jelly into gallipots, cover each of the pots with paper dipped in brandy, and keep them for uſe in a dry place.
To make Hartſhorn Jelly.
Take half a pound of hartſhorn, put it into two quarts of ſpring water, and let it ſimmer over a moderate fire till the liquor is reduced to half the quantity, then ſtrain it off, add to it the juice of two or three oranges and lemons, the whites of ſix eggs well beaten, a little Rheniſh or white wine, ſome lemon-peel cut ſmall, and nine or ten [92] ounces of fine ſugar; mix theſe up with your jelly, give it a boil, ſtrain it through a jelly bag till it is clear, and then pour it into your jelly glaſſes.
To make Calf's Feet Jelly.
You muſt boil four calves feet in a gallon of water till it is reduced to two quarts; then ſtrain off the liquor, and let it ſtand till it is cold; ſkim off all the fat, clear the jelly from the ſediment, and put it into a ſaucepan, with eight whites of eggs beaten to a froth, a pint of Rheniſh or Ma⯑deira wine, a ſufficiency of loaf ſugar, the juice of four or five lemons, and ſome ſhred lemon-peel; ſtir all together, and let it boil up; then paſs it through your jelly bag till it is quite clear, and fill your glaſſes with it.
To make Raſberry Jam.
Bruiſe a quart of raſberries in a pint of currant-jelly, boil them over a ſlow fire about twenty mi⯑nutes, ſtir them all time, and put ſome ſugar to them. When your jam is enough, pour it into your gallipots, cover it cloſe, and keep it for uſe.
To make Flummery.
Boil a large calf's foot in two quarts of water, then ſtrain the liquor, and put to it half a pint of thick cream, an ounce of bitter almonds, and two ounces of ſweet almonds well beat up together; ſweeten it with loaf ſugar, juſt give it a boil up, then ſtrain it off, and when cold put it into glaſſes or cups.
To make a good Sack Poſſet.
To a pint and a half of cream, or new milk, add a little cinnamon and nutmeg, and two or [93] three Naples biſcuits grated; let it boil over a ſlow fire till it is pretty thick, then put to it half a pint of ſack, with a ſufficiency of ſugar, ſtir it all together over the fire, and ſend it to table with dry toaſt.
To make Wine Whey.
You muſt put half a pint of white wine, and a pint of milk well ſkimmed, into a china bowl, and when it has ſtood a few minutes, pour a pint of hot water over it; let it ſtand till the curd ſettles at the bottom, then pour out the whey into another bowl, and mix ſugar with it.
Of PICKLING, PRESERVING, CANDYING, and DRYING.
To pickle Muſhrooms.
PUT the ſmalleſt muſhrooms you can get into a pan of ſpring water, then rub them with a piece of flannel dipped in ſalt, and let them be well waſhed; ſet them on the fire in a ſtewpan of boiling ſpring water, with a little ſalt in it, and when they have boiled five or ſix minutes, take them out, and throw them into a cullender to drain, then lay them between two cloths till they are cold; after which put them into wide-mouthed bottles, with a few blades of mace, ſome ſliced nutmeg, and mutton fat melted; fill up the bottles with diſtilled vinegar, cork them cloſe, and keep them for uſe.
To pickle Cabbage.
[94]Having cut off the ſtalks and outſide leaves, out your cabbage in thin ſlices; mean while make a pickle of vinegar, ſalt, mace, ginger, cloves, and nutmeg, boil it, and pour it on your cabbage, then put it into ſtone jars, and cover them cloſe.
To pickle Cucumbers.
Take ſome ſmall cucumbers freſh gathered, put them in a pan, and pour over them ſome hot brine; let them ſtand twenty-four hours cloſe covered, then ſtrain them out into a cullender, and dry them between two cloths. Take ſome white wine vinegar, and a proper quantity of all-ſpice, boil it up, and then put your cucumbers in it, with a little ſalt and a few bay-leaves; let them ſimmer over the fire in this pickle, then put the cucumbers and liquor into your jars, and tie a bladder over each jar.
To pickle Walnuts.
Put your walnuts in ſalt and water, in which they muſt remain ſeveral days, then take them out and dry them. Boil ſome white wine vinegar with mace, cloves, pepper, ginger, nutmeg, and ſalt, pour it hot over your walnuts, and when they are cold, put them in ſtrong ſtone jars.
To pickle Onions.
Firſt peel ſome ſmall onions, then ſoak them well in brine, and put them into wide-mouthed bottles, with ſliced ginger, mace, bay-leaves, and a little ſweet-oil; fill the bottles with white wine vinegar, and cork them up cloſe.
To preſerve Gooſeberries, Cheries, Raſberries, Currrants, Mulberries, &c.
[95]Set your fruit over the fire, in a ſkillet or pre⯑ſerving pan, with a little water, and a good deal of fine ſugar; let it boil gently till the ſyrup is pro⯑perly thick, then put your fruit and ſyrup into gallipots or glaſſes for uſe.
To keep green Peaſe all the Year.
Having ſhelled ſome fine young peas, let them boil five or ſix minutes, then throw them into a cullender to drain, dry them well with a cloth, and cover them cloſe in quart bottles.
To candy Orange or Lemon Peel.
Firſt ſteep your peel well in ſalt and water, then boil it tender, ſo as to take away the bitterneſs. Make a ſyrup of fine loaf ſugar diſſolved in water, put your peel into it, and boil it gently, then dry it before the fire, and keep it for uſe.
To candy Apricots.
Slit your apricots on one ſide of the ſtone, and put on them ſome fine ſugar, lay them in a diſh, and bake them in a pretty hot oven; then take them out of the diſh, and dry them on glaſs plates in the oven for two or three days.
To dry Peaches.
Having pared and ſtoned ſome fine large peaches, you muſt boil them tender; after which lay them in a ſieve to drain, and put them in the ſaucepan again, with their weight of ſugar; boil them till the ſyrup is thick enough, and let them lie in the ſugar all night; then lay them on plates, and dry them throughly in a ſtove.
To dry Cherries.
[96]Take a ſufficiency of fine ſugar, put a little water to it, and boil it; ſtone your cherries, put them in the ſugar, give them a boil, and let them ſtand in the ſyrup two or three days; then boil your ſyrup again, and pour it on them; let them ſtand ſome time longer, then lay them in a ſieve to dry.
To candy Barberries and Grapes.
Take preſerved barberries, waſh off the ſyrup in water, and ſift fine ſugar on them; then let them be dried in the ſtove, turning them from time to time till they are thoroughly dry. Preſerved grapes may alſo be candied after the ſame manner.
To candy Angelica.
Gather it in April, and boil it in water till it be tender, then take it up and drain it from the water very well; ſcrape the outſide of it, dry it in a clean cloth, and lay it in the ſyrup; let it lie three or four days, and cover it cloſe; the ſyrup muſt be rich, and keep it hot a good while, but let it not boil; lay it upon a pie plate to let it dry, and keep it near the fire, leſt it diſſolve.
To preſerve Barberries.
Take them ripe and of a good colour, and the ſort without ſtones; then take about three times the weight of them in fine ſugar; boil ſome of the worſt of the barberries in ſpring water, ſtrain it, and take as much of it as will diſſolve the ſugar; boil it to a ſyrup, ſkim it clean, tie the fruit in bunches, and do them as the currants.
To make Marmalade.
[95]To two pounds of quinces, add three quarters of a pound of ſugar, and a pint of ſpring water; put them over the fire, and boil them till they are tender; drain off the liquor, and bruiſe them; then put them into it again, let it boil three quar⯑ters of an hour, and put it into your pots or ſaucers.
To keep French Beans all the Year.
Take young beans, gathered on a dry day, have a large ſtone jar ready, lay a layer of ſalt at the bottom, and then a layer of beans, then ſalt and then beans, and ſo on till the jar is full; cover them with ſalt, and tie a coarſe cloth over them, and a board on that, and then a weight to keep it cloſe from all air; ſet them in a dry cellar, and when you uſe them, take ſome out, and cover them cloſe again; waſh thoſe you take out very clean, and let them lie in ſoft water twenty-four hours, ſhifting the water often; when you boil them do not put any ſalt in the water.
To keep white Bullace.
Gather them when full grown, and juſt as they begin to turn. Pick all the largeſt out; ſave about two-thirds of the fruit; to the other third put as much water as you think will cover them, boil and ſkim them; when the fruit is boiled very ſoft, ſtrain it through a coarſe hair ſieve, and to every quart of this liquor put a pound and a half of ſugar, boil it, and ſkim it very well; then throw in your fruit, juſt give them a ſcald, take them off the fire, and when cold, put them into bottles with wide mouths, pour your ſyrup over, lay on a piece of white paper, and cover them with oil.
To preſerve Cherries.
[96]Take two pounds of cherries, one pound and a half of ſugar, half a pint of water, melt your ſugar in it; when it is melted, put in your cherries; boil them ſoftly at firſt, then faſter, and ſkim them; take them off two or three times and ſhake them; put them on again, and let them boil faſt. When they are of a good colour, and the ſyrup will ſtand, they are enough.
To preſerve Mulberries whole.
Set ſome mulberries over a fire in a ſkillet or preſerving-pan; draw from them a pint of juice when it is ſtrained; then take three pounds of ſugar beaten very fine, wet the ſugar with the pint of juice, boil up your ſugar and ſkim it, put in two pounds of ripe mulberries, and let them ſtand in the ſyrup till they are thoroughly warm; then ſet them on the fire, and let them boil very gently; do them but half enough, and put them by in the ſyrup till next day, then boil them gently again; when the ſyrup is pretty thick, and will ſtand in round drops when it is cold, they are enough; ſo put all into a gallipot for uſe.
To preſerve Damſons.
Gather them when dry, full grown, and not ripe; pick them one by one, put them into glaſs bottles that are very clean and dry, and cork them cloſe with new corks; then put a kettle of water on the fire, and put in the bottles with care; wet not the corks, but let the water come up to the necks; make a gentle fire till they are a little coddled, and turn white; do not take them up till cold, the [...] pitch the corks all over, or wax them cloſe, and ſet them in a cool dry cellar.
To preſerve Currants.
[97]Take the weight of the currants in ſugar, pick out the ſeeds; to a pound of ſugar add half a pint of water; let it melt; then put in your currants, and let them do very leiſurely; ſkim them, and take them up; let the ſyrup boil, then put them on again, and when they are clear, and the ſyrup thick enough, take them off. When they are cold, put them in glaſſes.
To preſerve Raſberries.
Chuſe raſberries that are not too ripe, and take the weight of them in ſugar; wet your ſugar with a little water, put in your raſberries, and let them boil ſoftly; take heed of breaking them; when they are clear, take them up, and boil the ſyrup till it be thick enough, then put them in again, and when they are cold, put them up in glaſſes.
INSTRUCTIONS for MARKETING.
How to chuſe Beef.
IF the beef be young, it will be ſmooth and tender; if old, it generally appears rough and ſpongy. When it is of a carnation colour, it is a ſign of its being good ſpending meat.
To chuſe Mutton.
When mutton is old, the fleſh, when pinched, will wrinkle, and continue ſo; if it be young, the fleſh will pinch tender, and the fat will eaſily part from the lean; whereas, when the meat is old, the fat will ſtick by ſtrings and ſkins. The fleſh of ewe mutton is in general paler than that of wether mutton; it is of a cloſer grain, and [98] parts more eaſily. When the fleſh of mutton is looſe at the bone, and of a pale yellowiſh colour, it is an indication of its being ſomewhat rotten.
To chuſe Lamb.
If a hind-quarter of lamb has a ſaint ſmell under the kidney, and the knuckle be limber, it is ſtale meat. If the neck vein of a fore quarter be of an azure colour, it is new and good meat; but if greeniſh, or yellowiſh, the meat is nearly tainted.
To chuſe Pork.
If the pork be old, the lean will be tough, and the fat ſpongy and flabby; if young, the lean, when pinched, will break between your fingers, and when you nip the ſkin with your nails, it will make a dent. The ſkin of pork is in general clammy and ſweaty when the meat is ſtale, but ſmooth and cool when new. When many little kernels, like hail-ſhot, are found in the fat of pork, it is then meaſly.
To chuſe Veal.
When the fleſh of a joint of veal ſeems clammy, and has greeniſh or yellowiſh ſpecks, it is ſtale; but when it has not theſe appearances it is new. The fleſh of a female calf is not ſo red and firm as that of a male calf.
To chuſe Bacon.
If the fat is white, oily to the touch, and does not break, the bacon is good, eſpecially if the fleſh is of a good colour and ſticks well to the bone; but if contrary ſymptoms appear, and the lean has ſome yellowiſh ſtreaks, it is, or ſoon will be, ruſty.
To chuſe Hams.
[99]You muſt run a knife under the bone that ſticks out of the ham, and if it comes out pretty clean, and has a nice flavor, the ham is ſweet and good; if much dulled and ſmeared, it is tainted and rancid.
To chuſe Veniſon.
In a haunch or ſhoulder of veniſon, put your finger, or a knife, under the bones that ſtick out, and as the ſmell is rank or ſweet, it is ſtale or new.
To chuſe Turkies, Capons, Geeſe, Ducks, &c.
If the turkey be young, its legs will be ſmooth and black, and its ſpurs ſhort; if it be ſtale, its eyes will be ſunk, and feet dry; if new, the eyes will be lively; and the feet limber.
When a cock or capon is young, his ſpurs are ſhort, and his legs ſmooth; if ſtale. he will have a looſe open vent; if new, a cloſe hard vent.
If the bill of a gooſe is yellowiſh, and ſhe has but few hairs, ſhe is young; but if her bill and feet are reddiſh, and ſhe has plenty of hairs, ſhe is an old one. If the gooſe be freſh, the feet will be limber; if ſtale, they will be dry.
Wild and tame ducks, if ſtale, will be dry-footed; if freſh, limber-footed.
To chuſe Hares and Rabbits.
A hare, when newly killed, is ſtiff and whitiſh; when ſtale, the body is limber, and the fleſh in many parts blackiſh If the hare he old, the ears will be tough and dry, and the claws wide and ragged; if young, the claws will be [100] ſmooth, and the ears will tear like a piece of brown paper. Rabbits, when ſtale, are limber and ſlimy; when freſh, ſtiff and white; when young, their claws are ſmooth; when old, the contrary.
To chuſe Salmon, Carp, Tench, Pike, Trout, Whitings, Barbels, Smelts, Shads, Chubs, Ruffs, Mackarel, Herrings, &c.
When theſe fiſh are ſtale, their gills are pale, their fleſh ſoft and clammy, and their eyes dull and ſunk; but when freſh, the gills are of a lively ſhining redneſs, the eyes bright and full, and the fleſh ſtiff.
MODERN BILLS OF FARE.
CANDLEMAS QUARTER.
FISH in Seaſon.
LOBSTERS, crabs, craw-fiſh, river craw-fiſh, guard-fiſh, mackarel, breams, barbel, roach, ſha [...] or alloc, lamprey or lamper-eels, dace, b [...]eak, prawns, and horſe-mackarel.
The eels that are taken in running water are better than pond eels; of thoſe the ſilver ones are moſt eſteemed.
MIDSUMMER QUARTER.
[104]Turbots and trouts, ſoals, grigs, ſhaffins and glout, tenes, ſalmon, dolphin, flying-fiſh, ſheep⯑head, tollis, both land and ſea, ſtugeon, ſeal, chub, lobſters and crabs.
Sturgeon is a fiſh commonly found in the northern ſeas; but now and then we find them in our great rivers, the Thames, the Severn, and the Tyne.—This fiſh is of a very large ſize, and will ſometimes meaſure eighteen feet in length. They are much eſteemed when freſh, cut in pieces, and roaſted or baked, or pickled for cold treats. The cavier is eſteemed a dainty, which is the ſpawn of this fiſh. The latter end of this quarter comes ſmelts.
MICHAELMAS QUARTER.
Cod and haddock, coal-fiſh, white and pouting hake, lyng, tuſk and mullet, red and grey, weaver, gurnet, rocket, herrings, ſprats, ſoles and flounders, plaiſe, dabs and ſmeare- [...]abs, eels, chare, ſkate, thornbacks and humlyn, kinſon, oyſters and ſcol⯑lops, ſalmon, ſea perch and carp, pike, tench, and ſea tench.
Skate maids are black, and thornback maids white. Grey baſs comes with the mullet.
In this quarter are fine ſmelts, and hold till after Chriſtmas.
There are two ſorts of mullets, the ſea mullet and river mullet, both equally good.
CHRISTMAS QUARTER.
Dorey, brill, gudgeons, ſmelts. crouch, perch, anchovy and loach, ſcollop and wilks, periwinkles, cockles, muſcles, geare, bearbet and hollebet.
FRUITS.
[105]Which are yet laſting in JANUARY.
SOME grapes, the Kentiſh ruſſet, golden, French, Kirton, and Dutch pippins, John ap⯑ples, winter queenings, the marigold and Hervey apples, pom-water, golden dorſet, rennitting, love's pearmain, and the winter-pearmain; winter burga⯑mot, winter boucretien, winter maſk, winter Nor⯑wich, and great ſurrin pears. All garden things much the ſame as in December.
FEBRUARY Fruits which are yet laſting.
The ſame as in January, except the golden pip⯑pin and pom-water; alſo the pomery, and the win⯑ter peppering and dagobent pear.
MARCH Fruits which are yet laſting.
The golden ducket-dauſet, pippings, rennittings, love's pearmain and John apples. The latter bou⯑cretien and double-bioſſom pear.
APRIL Fruits which are yet laſting.
You have now in the kitchen garden and orchard, autumn carrots, winter ſpinach, ſprouts of cabbage, and cauliflowers, turnip-tops. aſparagu [...], young radiſhes, Dutch brown lettuce and creſſes, burnet, young onions, ſcallions, leeks, and [...]arly kidney-beans. On hot beds, purſlain, cucumbers, and muſhrooms. Some cherries, green apricots, and gooſeberries for tarts.
Pippins, deuxans, weſtbury-apple, ruſſeting, gilliflower, the latter bourcretien, oak pear, &c.
MAY, the Product of the Kitchen and Fruit Garden this Month.
[106]Aſparagus, cauliflowers, imperial, Sileſia, royal and cabbage lettuces, burnet, purſlain, cucumbers, naſturtian flowers, peaſe and beans ſown in October, artichokes, ſcarlet ſtrawberries, and kidney beans. Upon the hot beds, May cherries, May dukes. On walls, green apricots, and gooſeberries.
Pippins, deuxans, or John apple, Weſtbury ap⯑ples, ruſſeting, gilliflower apples, the codling, &c.
The great karvile, winter boucretien, black Wor⯑ceſter pear, ſurrein, and double bloſſom pear. Now is the proper time to diſtil herbs, which are in their greateſt perfection.
JULY, the Product of the Kitchen and Fruit Garden.
Roncival and winged peaſe, garden and kidney⯑beans, cauliflowers, cabbages, artichokes and their ſmall ſuckers, all ſorts of kitchen and aromatic [107] herbs. Sallads, as cabbage lettuce, purſlain, bur⯑net, young onions, cucumbers, blanched endive, carrots, turnips, beets, Naſturtian flowers, muſk⯑melons, wood-ſtrawberries, currants, gooſeberries, raſberries, red and white jannatings, the Margaret apple, the primat ruſſet, ſummer-green chiſſel and pearl pears, the carnation morella, great bearer, Morocco, origat, and begarreau cherries. The nut⯑meg, Iſabella, Perſian, Newington, violet, muſcal and rambouillet peaches. Nectarines, the primo⯑dial, myrobalan, red, blue, amber, damaſk pear, apricot and cinnamon plumbs; alſo the King's and lady Elizabeth's plumbs, &c. ſome figs and grapes. Walnuts in high ſeaſon to pickle, and rock ſampier. The fruit yet laſting of the laſt year is, the deuxans and the winter ruſſeting.
AUGUST, the Product of the Kitchen and Fruit Garden.
Cabbages and their ſprouts, cauliflowers, arti⯑chokes, cabbage lettuce, beets, carrots, potatoes, turnips, ſome beans, peas, kidney-beans, and all ſorts of kitchen herbs, radiſh, horſe-radiſh, cucum⯑bers, creſſes, ſome tarragon, onions, garlic, rocom⯑boles, melons, and cucumbers for pickling.
Gooſeberries, raſberries, currants, grapes, figs, mulberries and filberts, apples, the winter ſove⯑reign, orange Burgamot, ſlipper red Catherine, king Catherine, penny Pruſſian, ſummer poppening, ſugar and louding pears. Crown Bourdeaux, Lavur, Diſput, Savoy and Wallacotta peaches, the muroy, tawny, red Roman, little green cluſter and yellow nectarines.
Imperial blue, dates, yellow late pear, black pear, white nutmeg pear, great Antony or Turkey and Jane plumbs.
Cluſter muſcadine and Cornelian grapes.
SEPTEMBER, the Product of the Kitchen and Fruit Garden.
[108]Garden and ſome kidney-beans, roncival peas, artichokes, radiſhes, cauliflowers, cabbage lettuce, creſſes, cherville, onions, tarragon, burnet, celery, endive, muſhrooms, carrots, turnips, ſkirrets, beets, ſcorzonera, horſe-radiſh, garlic, ſhalots, rocombole, cabbage and their ſprouts, with ſavoys, which are better when more ſweetened with the froſt.
Peaches, grapes, figs, pears, plumbs, walnuts, filberts, almonds, quinces, melons and cucumbers.
OCTOBER, the Product of the Kitchen and Fruit Garden.
Some cauliflowers, artichokes, peaſe, beans, cu⯑cumbers, and melons; alſo July ſown kidney-beans, turnips, carrots, parſnips, potatoes, ſkirrets, beets, onions, garlic, ſhalots, rocombole, churdones, creſſes, cherville, muſtard, radiſh, rape, ſpinach, lettuce ſmall and cabbaged, burnet, tarragon, blanched celery and endive, late peaches and plumbs, grapes and figs, mulberries, filberts and walnuts; the bul⯑lice, pines and arbuters, and a great variety of apples and pears.
NOVEMBER, the Product of the Kitchen and Fruit Garden.
Cauliflowers in the green-houſe, and ſome arti⯑chokes, carrots, parſnips, turnips, beets, ſcorzonera, horſe-radiſh, potatoes, onions, garlic, ſhalots, ro⯑combole, celery, parſley, ſorrel, thyme, ſavoury, ſweet marjoram dry and clary, cabbages and their ſprouts, ſavoy cabbage, ſpinach, late cucumbers. Hot herbs on the hot bed, burnet, cabbage lettuce, endive blanched, ſeveral ſorts of apples and pears.
Some bullice, medlars, arbutas, walnuts, hazle⯑nuts and cheſnuts.
DECEMBER, the Product of the Kitchen and Fruit Garden.
[109]Many ſorts of cabbages and ſavoys, ſpinach, and ſome cauliflowers in conſervatory, and artichokes in ſand. Roots we have as in the laſt month.—Small herbs on the hot beds for ſallads; alſo mint, tarragon, and cabbage lettuce preſerved under glaſſes; cherville, celery, and endive blanched. Sage, thyme, ſavory, beet-leaves, tops of young beets, parſley, ſorrel, ſpinach, leeks and ſweet-marjoram, marigold-flowers, and mint dried.—Aſparagus on the hot bed, and cucumbers on the plants ſown in July and Auguſt, and plenty of pears and apples.
Of CLEAR-STARCHING.
To waſh Muſlins.
TAKE your muſlin aprons, hoods, or neckcloths, fold them four double, putting the two ſel⯑vages together, then the ends together, and waſh it the way the ſelvage goes, to prevent their f [...]aying [...] then take clear water, let it not be too hot, for that makes them yellow, and ſtrain the water through a cloth; then take the beſt ſoap, a ſmall quantity (as your waſh is) put it upon a clean ſtick, beat up your lather, let it not be with a whiſk, becauſe it will make the water yellow, and leaves ſplinters in the water, which will tear the muſlins.
After the lather is beat, put in your fouleſt muſlins one by one, till you have put all in, let them ſtand to ſoak, then waſh them one by one to [110] prevent tearing, whilſt the water is warm; then ſqueeze them between both hands, for fear of leaving the dirty ſuds in them: As you waſh them out, ſhake them open into a diſh; then let your ſecond lather be beat up as your firſt, only let the water be hotter, but not ſcalding hot; waſh them whilſt they are warm, and ſqueeze them as before; then, as to your third lather, let your water be ſcalding hot, but not boiling, for that makes the water yellow; then take a ſmall quantity of pow⯑der-blue, put it in a cup, and put water to it, a little more than will wet it, then ſhake the cup about, afterwards pour it into the ſcalding water, and ſtir it about till it is blue enough; then take ſoap and beat up your lather as before, and put the yelloweſt muſlins in firſt, then let them be covered over with a clean cloth: You may waſh them out whilſt warm, or let them ſtand all night to clear them.
When you waſh them out, take care and waſh the blue out, then lay them in clear pump-water; if you have not time to ſtarch them all at once, put no more in your ſtarch than you can finiſh in one day, for lying in the ſtarch makes them look yellow and ſtreaky. Let them be in water till you have time to finiſh them; but do not excued two days.
Moſt ſtarchers boil their muſlins, but they ſhould not, becauſe it wears them out; but the ſcalding and letting muſlins lie in the ſuds do them more good than a boil: Likewiſe obſerve never to ſoap your muſlins, for waſhing out the ſoap will cauſe you to fray the muſlins.
To rince Muſlins before you ſtarch them.
Take pump-water in a clean pan, then take a ſmall quantity of blue in a cup, and put a little [111] pump-water to it, ſhake it about in the cup, and pour a little of it in the rinſing-water, and ſtir it about; put your whiteſt muſlins in firſt, one by one, and in caſe any blue ſhould ſettle, rub them with your hand lightly in the water, and it will come off; and if any of your muſlins be yellow, you muſt make the rinſing-water a little bluer: After you have rinſed them, ſqueeze them one by one, very hard, becauſe they will not take the ſtarch if any water is left in them, and pull them out with dry hands, double them upon a clean dry cloth, in order to ſtarch them. Some people ſtarch them dry; but they ought not, for it makes them yellow and ſtiff, and is very apt to fray them.
To make Starch for the Muſlins.
Take a pint of pump water to a quarter of a pound of ſtarch, put the water in a ſkillet, and put it over a clear fire till it is luke-warm, then put in your ſtarch, keep it ſtirring ſlowly one way till it boils, one boil and no more, then pour it into a pan, cover it with a plate till it is cold; when it is cold, take ſome upon your hand, and ſome blue in the other hand, then mix them together, but make it not too blue, for the leſs blue the better: You need not make any more at a time, keep it not above a week, for that will make your muſlins look yellow: Take your muſlins doubled as before, one by one, then ſpread the ſtarch with your hand, but not too thick, firſt on one ſide, and then on the other, but not open it; then blue the fineſt muſlins firſt, and then the thicker, for the ſtarch that comes out of the fineſt will ſtarch the thick ones; and the ſame ſtarch that comes out of the muſlins will ſtarch aprons, caps and handkerchiefs, for thin ſtarch is beſt for them, becauſe they muſt not be too ſtiff.
[112] When you have ſtarched the muſlins, lay them in an earthen diſh, kneading them with your dou⯑ble fiſt till the ſtarch ſticks about your hands, then ſqueezing them hard, wipe them with a dry cloth, after that open them, and rub them ſlightly through your hands.
When you have opened them, and rubbed them, take the two ends and ſo clap them between your hands, pull them out very well, to you and from you, to prevent the fraying. Be ſure your hands are dry.
If any of the ſtarch remains on your hands, it will fray the muſlin; dry them well, and as you pull them out, hold them againſt the light to ſee if they are clapped enough.
If any thing looks ſhining, that is the ſtarch, you muſt rub it over gently; when they are clap⯑ped enough, you will obſerve them to fly aſunder, and not ſtick to your hands; but obſerve to clap very thick, and very hard, for if you let them dry they will be limber, ſo that when you ſee no ſhining, they are clapped enough. You muſt never clap them ſingle, for that frays and tears them; neither clap by the fire, except in froſty weather, for that ſpoils the colour.
For the ironing of muſlins, pull them out dou⯑ble on the board, as ſmooth and even as you can, and ſo on till you finiſh about ſix one upon ano⯑ther; then, with your box-iron, iron the under two firſt, becauſe that is the drieſt, and ſhould be pretty dry, but not quite dry, that you may iron them even, and prevent fraying. Let fine plain muſlin be ironed upon a ſoft woollen cloth; but if you have any that is coarſe or thick, you muſt firſt iron them upon a damp cloth, and then after⯑wards upon your ironing-cloth, the wrong ſide.
As for lawns, in the waſhing and rinſing, do them as you do muſlins; make a very thin ſtarch, [113] but not water ſtarch; dip them in, and ſqueeze them out hard, wipe them with a dry cloth very hard, and clap them carefully, for they are very apt to ſlip; then fold them up, and put them into a dry pan when they are clapped enough: If you touch them with any wet, it will leave a ſort of thick look, and ſo will muſlins. You may iron them on a damp cloth like the muſlins, but not with too hot an iron; and alſo iron them on the wrong ſide, as you do the thick muſlins.
You muſt not ſtarch with ſtarch left from other things, therefore make freſh as before, and ſee that the ſame be a little matter bluer than be⯑fore.
As for night-caps, aprons, &c. you muſt ſtarch them in very thin ſtarch, which comes from the muſlins; but it muſt be thicker than water ſtarch, a ſmall matter of clapping ſerves them; but ob⯑ſerve that they are clear; you muſt alſo pull them out towards the gathers, to prevent the fraying them. Every way double them, and lay them on the board as even as you can, and let them lie till they are pretty near dry; then put them even, and iron them on the wrong ſides.
To do lace the beſt way, you muſt ſew tape to each ſide of the lace, then waſh it amongſt other muſlins, or by itſelf, in three lathers, and if it looks not white, put it into warm butter-milk, and let it lie a day, then hang it to dry, and then waſh it out in two or three lathers, but the lathers muſt be blue, after which take it out, and pin it upon your board by the tapes very even; then take muſlins the length of the lace, and dip it in water ſtarch, and ſo lay it upon the lace till it dries; obſerve not to ſqueeze any of the ſtarch out of the muſlin.
When the lace is dry, take off the tapes; after which pick the purls and the foot very tenderly.
[114] If you open the purls, you muſt make a round hardiſh pillow, and lay paper on it, which will ſhew the purls the plainer; afterwards lay the lace upon the paper, and, with a long ſlender nee⯑dle, with a bit of wax at the head, you may eaſily open them, if they are well picked out at firſt; after you have opened them, lay them upon a board, with a muſlin over them, and iron them with an iron not too hot.
VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
To take Iron Moulds, or Stains of Claret, Ink, &c. out of Muſlins, Table Linen, &c.
IF your muſlins be iron-moulded, take a chaf⯑fing-diſh of clear coals, ſet a plate over it with ſome ſorrel in it, then put ſome ſalt upon the plate; afterwards take ſome more ſorrel in a bit of muſlin, and ſqueeze the juice upon it; let it lie till it is very hot, then take the ſtained place and ſqueeze it very hard; then take freſh ſorrel and ſalt, and uſe it as before, till the ſtain is gone out; the mi⯑nute you ſee the ſtain is out, waſh it in three or four lathers, till it has done looking green.
To get Spots of Ink out of Linen.
Take the linen, and let that part of it that the ink has fallen upon lay all night in vinegar and ſalt; the next day rub the ſpots well with it, as if you were waſhing in water, then put freſh vine⯑gar and ſalt, and let it lie another night, and the next day rub it again, and all the ſpots will diſappear.
How to get the Stains of Fruit out of Linen.
[115]Rub all the ſtains very well with butter, then put the linen into ſcalding hot milk; let it lie and ſteep there till it is cold, and rub the ſtained places in the milk till you ſee they are quite out.
SOAP.
Be careful in chuſing the oldeſt ſoap you can, for that which is new-made, not only ſpoils the colour of the linen, but alſo does not go ſo far.
How to waſh Silk Stockings.
Make a ſtrong lather with ſoap, and pretty hot, then lay the ſtockings on a table, take a piece of very coarſe rough cloth, roll it up, and rub them with it as hard as you can, turning them ſeveral times from one ſide to the other, till they have paſſed through tree lathers; then rinſe them in three or four waters, till not the leaſt tincture of the ſoap remains; and when you find them quite clear, hang them up to dry, without wringing, wrong ſide outwards. When they are about half dry, take them down, and pull them out with your hands into ſhape; let them lie a while, and [...] ſmooth them with your iron on the wrong⯑ſide.
RECEIPTS for PRESERVING and IMPROVING BEAUTY.
To make a fine Pomatum for the Skin.
HAVING cut two pounds of hog's-lard into thin ſlices, waſh it clean, and let it ſoak in old water eight or ten days, changing the water [116] once a day; then melt it over a ſlow fire, and ſkim off any impurity that riſes to the top; when melted, pour it into cold water, waſh it clea [...] with roſe-water, and then rub your ſkin with it.
To remove Freckles.
Mix three or four ſpoonfuls of bean-flour water with the ſame quantity of elder flower water, and add a ſpoonful of oil of tartar; when the mixture has ſtood two or three days, and is properly ſettled, rub a little over your face, and let it dry upon it.
To take off red Spots from the Face.
Place a lemon before a ſlow fire, in a flat earthen plate, to receive the liquor that ſweats out of it; when all the juice is out, pour it into a glaſs to cool, and then rub the face with a few drops of it. This is an effectual method for removing all kinds of red ſpots.
To remove Wrinkles.
Take two ounces of the powder of myrrh, and lay it in a ſmall fire ſhovel till it is thoroughly hot; then take a mouthful of white wine, and let it [...] gently upon the myrrh, which will ſmoke up; you muſt then immediately hold your face over it, ſo as to receive as much of the ſmoke as poſſible; if you hold your face over till the whole is waſted, it will have a wonderful effect; but if that it too painful, you may cover your face with a cloth.
To conceal deep Marks occaſioned by the Small Pox
You muſt boil an ounce of ſpermaceti in a [...] of Malmſey till it is entirely diſſolved; add to it the juice of a houſe-leek, and that of plantain leaves, with half an ounce of peach-kernels▪ when it is all well mixed together, you muſt ſet it [117] to cool; then ſtrain it through a fine cloth, and when you rub the face with it, let it be gently warmed.
To make a fine Waſhing Powder.
Take three or four ounces of the flour of French barley, two ounces of the oil of ſweet almonds, ſix drachms of benjamin, a handful of the leaves of white roſes, half an ounce of ſpermaceti, an ounce of white chalk powdered, a quarter of an ounce of white tartar, and one ſcruple of the oil of cloves and lavender; mix all theſe together, and beat them to powder in a mortar.
To make a Perfume to carry in your Pocket.
Take two ſcruples of the flowers of benjamin, half a ſcruple of the flowers of roſes, one ſcruple of orange-peel, ſome grated nutmeg, a ſcruple of the eſſence of cinnamon and orange, half an ounce of jeſſamine butter, and a few grains of muſk and amber; beat all theſe in a mortar till they are properly mixed, then put the powder in a box.
To make fine Waſh-Balls.
Mix two ounces of ſanders with the ſame quantity of cloves, four pounds of the beſt white ſoap cut in ſmall pieces, and twenty grains of muſk; diſſolve the whole in roſe-water, and then make it up into balls.
To make the Hands ſoft and white.
Firſt beat in a mortar two ounces of blanched almonds, with four ounces of the flowers of beans; add to them four ounces of Caſtile ſoap, with a pint of roſe-water; then mix them all up together, and when you uſe them for your hands, moiſten them with warm milk.
To make an excellent Waſh for the Teeth.
[118]Mix an ounce of bole armoniac in a gill of Hungary water; put this into a quart of claret with two ounces of honey, a dram of allum, an ounce of myrrh, and ten grains of ſalt of vitriol; then let this mixture ſtand to ſettle. When you uſe it, put a ſpoonful of it into a cup of water, waſh your teeth with it every morning, and it will preſerve them clean and white.
To make a ſwarthy Complexion very agreeable.
Firſt ſift the flour out of half a peck of wheat bran; then put to the bran ſeven or eight new-laid eggs, and ſix pints of white-wine vinegar; when it is well mixed up, let it diſtil over a ſlow fire. After it has ſtood a day to ſettle, rub your face with it every day for a fortnight, and then it will look extremely fair.
Receipt to thicken the Hari, and make it grow on a bald Part.
Take roots of a maiden vine, roots of hemp, and cores of ſoft cabbages, of each two handfuls; dry and burn them; afterwards make a lye with the aſhes. The head is to be waſhed with this lye three days ſucceſſively, the part having been previ⯑ouſly well rubbed with honey.
A Receipt to clean the Teeth and Gums, and make the Fleſh grow cloſe to the Root of the Enamel.
Take an ounce of myrrh in fine powder, two ſpoonfuls of the beſt white honey, and a little green [...] ſage in fine powder; mix them well together, and rub the teeth and gums with a little of this balſam every night and morning.
OF ENGLISH WINES, and other LIQUORS.
[121]To make Currant Wine.
LET your currants be gathered when perfectly ripe; ſtrip them from the ſtalks, put them in a large pan with ſome water, and bruiſe them with a wooden peſtle; let them ſtand in the pan twenty⯑four hours, then ſtrain off the liquor. To every gallon of this liquor add three pounds of loaf ſugar, and to every ſix gallons put a quart of brandy; ſtir it well together, put it in a caſk, and let it ſtand three or four months, then bottle it off for uſe.
To make Raiſin Wine.
Firſt boil nine or ten gallons of ſpring water for an hour, then put ſix pounds of Malaga raiſins to every gallon; let them remain in the water about ten days, and you muſt ſtir them every day; then ſtrain the liquor off, ſqueeze the juice out of the raiſins, mix both liquors well together, and put your wine in a barrel, ſtop it up cloſe, let it ſtand about four months, and then put it in bottles.
To make Gooſeberry Wine.
Bruiſe your gooſeberries in a tub with a mallet, ſqueeze out all the juice, and put to it a ſufficient quantity of water and loaf ſugar; mix it up well [...]ill the ſugar is melted, then put it into a caſk, and when it has ſtood three or four months, bottle it off, putting a ſmall lump of ſugar in each bottle.
To make Orange Wine.
[122]Take ſix whites of eggs well beat, fifteen pounds of loaf ſugar, and ſix gallons of ſpring water; boil all together about three quarters of an hour, and take off the ſcum as it riſes. When it is cold, mix with it five or ſix ſpoonfuls of yeaſt, five ounces of the ſyrup of lemon or citron, and the juice and rinds of between thirty and forty oranges; let it work two days, then oput it into a caſk with one quart of Rheniſh or Mountain wine, and after two or three months bottle it off.
To make good Engliſh S [...]ck.
To every gallon of water put a handful of fen⯑nel roots, and to every quart a ſprig of rue; let theſe boil half an hour, then ſtrain off the liquor, and add to every gallon three pounds of honey; boil it about two hours, and clear it of ſcum.— When cold, turn it into a caſk, and, after it has ſtood ſeveral months, bottle it.
To make Shrub.
Take half a gallon of brandy, add to it a pint of new milk, the juice of ſix lemons, or Seville oranges, and the rinds of three; let it ſtand twenty-four hours, then put to it a pound and a half of fine ſugar, and three pints of white wine; mix it up well, ſtrain it through a flannel bag till it is clear, and bottle it for uſe.
To make Raſberry Brandy.
Bruiſe a quantity of raſberries, and ſtrain the juice from them; to each quart of juice, put [...] quart of good brandy; then boil ſome water with a ſufficiency of double refined ſugar, and mix it with the brandy and ra [...]erry juice; ſtir it well together, and let it ſtand in a ſtone jar, cloſe [...] [123] covered, above a month, then pour it off into your bottles.
To make Cherry Brandy.
Stone and maſh eight pounds of black cherries, and put to them three quarts or a gallon of the beſt brandy; ſweeten it to your palate, cover it up cloſe in a proper veſſel, and when it has ſtood a month, clear it of the ſediment, and bottle it off.
To make excellent Milk Punch.
Take a quart of new milk, a quart of brandy, half a pint of lemon juice, two quarts of warm water, and ſome ſugar; mix all together, ſtrain it through a flannel bag, and bottle it. This will keep upwards of a fortnight.
To make Raſberry Wine.
Take red raſberries when they are nearly ripe, clean the huſks and ſtalks from them, ſoak them in fair water, that has been boiled and ſweetened with loaf ſugar, a pound and a half to a gallon; when they have ſoaked about twelve hours, take them out, put them into a fine linen preſſing-bag, preſs⯑out the juice into the water, then boil them up to⯑gether, and ſcum them well twice or thrice over a gentle fire; take off the veſſel, and let the liquor cool, and when the ſcum riſes, take off all that you can, and pour the liquor into a well-ſeaſoned caſk, or earthen veſſel; then boil an ounce of mace in a pint of white wine, till the third part be conſumed, ſtrain it, and add it to the liquor; when it has well ſettled and fermented, draw it off into a caſk, or bottles, and keep it in a cool place.
To make Morella Wine.
Take two gallons of white wine, and twenty pounds of Morella cherries; take away the ſtalks, [124] and ſo bruiſe them that the ſtones may be broken: Preſs the juice into the wine, and add of mace, cinnamon, and nutmeg, an ounce of each, tied in a bag, groſly bruiſed, and hang it in the wine when you put it in the caſk.
To make Elder Wine.
When the elder-berries are ripe, pick them, and put them into a ſtone jar; fet them in boiling water, or in a ſlack oven, till the jar is as warm as you can well bear to touch it with your hands; then ſtrain the fruit through a coarſe cloth, ſqueezing them hard, and pour the liquor into a kettle. Put it on the fire, let it boil, and to every quart of liquor add a pound of Liſbon ſugar, and ſkim it often; then let it ſettle, pout it off into a jar, and cover it cloſe.
To make Cowſlip Wine.
Take five pounds of loaf ſugar, and four gallons of water, ſimmer them half an hour to diſſolve the ſugar; when it is cold, put in half a peck of cowſlip-flowers, picked and gently bruiſed; then add two ſpoonfuls of yeaſt, and beat it up with a pint of ſyrup of lemons, and a lemon-peel or two. Pour the whole into a caſk, let them ſtand cloſe ſtop⯑ped for three days, that they may ferment; then put in ſome juice of cowſlips, and give it room to work; when it has ſtood a month, draw it off into bottles, putting a little lump of loaf ſugar into each.
To make Mead.
To thirteen gallons of water put thirty pounds of honey, boil and ſcum it well, then take roſemary, thyme, bay-leaves, and ſweet briar, one handful altogether; boil it an hour, put it into a tub with a little ground malt; ſtir it till it is new milk warm; [125] ſtrain it through a cloth, and put it into the tub again; cut a toaſt, and ſpread it over with good yeaſt, and put it into the tub alſo; and when the liquor is covered over with yeaſt, put it up in a barrel; then take of cloves, mace, and nutmegs, an ounce and a half; of ginger ſliced an ounce; bruiſe the ſpice, tie it up in a rag, and hang it in the veſſel, ſtopping it up cloſe for uſe.
To make Balm Wine.
Take a peck of balm leaves, put them in a tub or large pot, heat four gallons of water ſcalding hot, then pour it upon the leaves, and let it ſtand all night; in the morning ſtrain them through a hair ſieve; put to every gallon of water two pounds of fine ſugar, and ſtir it very well; take the whites of four or five eggs, put them into a pan, and whiſk it very well, before it be over hot; when the ſcum begins to riſe take it off, and keep it ſkimming all the while it is boiling; let it boil three quarters of an hour, and then put it into the tub; when it is cold put a little new yeaſt upon it, and beat it in every two hours, that it may head the better; ſo work it for two days, then put it into a ſweet veſſel, bung it cloſe, and when it is fine bottle it.
To make Birch Wine.
Take your birch water and clear it with whites of eggs; to every gallon of water take two pounds and a half of fine ſugar; boil it three quarters of an hour, and when it is almoſt cold put in a little yeaſt; work it two or three days, then put it into the barrel, and to every five gallons put in a quart of brandy, and half a pound of ſtoned raiſins. Be⯑fore you put up your wine, burn a brimſtone match in the barrel.
To make Elder Flower Wine.
[126]To twelve gallons of water, put thirty pounds of ſingle loaf-ſugar, boil it till two gallons be waſted, ſcumming it well; let it ſtand till it be as cool as wort, then put in two or three ſpoonfuls of yeaſt; when it works, put in two quarts of bloſſoms, pick'd from the ſtalks, ſtirring it every day till it has done working, which will not be under five or ſix days; then ſtrain it, and put it into the veſſel: After it is ſtopped down, let it ſtand two months, and then, if fine, bottle it.
To make Apricat Wine.
Take three pounds of ſugar, and three quarts of water, let them boil together, and ſkim it well; then put in ſix pounds of apricots, pared and ſtoned, and let them boil till they are tender; then take them up, and when the liquor is cold bottle it up. You may, if you pleaſe, after you have taken out the apricots, let the liquor have one boil with a ſprig of flowered clary in it; the apricots will make marmalade, and are very good for preſent ſpending.
To make Damſon Wine.
Gather your damſons dry, weigh them and bruiſe them with your hand; put them into an earthen ſtein that has a faucet, and a wreath of ſtraw before the faucet; add to every eight pounds of fruit a gallon of water; boil the water, ſkim it, and put it to your fruit ſcalding hot; let it ſtand two whole days; then draw it off, and put it into a veſſel fit for it, and to every gallon of liquor put two pounds and a half of fine ſugar; let the veſſel be full, and ſtop it cloſe; the longer it ſtands the better; it will keep a year in the veſſel; bottle it out. The [127] ſmall damſon is the beſt. You may put a very ſmall lump of double-refined ſugar in every bottle.
To make Sage Wine.
Take four handfuls of red ſage, beat it in a ſtone mortar like green ſauce, put it into a quart of red wine, and let it ſtand three or four days cloſe ſtop⯑ped, ſhaking it twice or thrice, then let it ſtand and ſettle, and the next day, in the morning, take of the ſage wine three ſpoonfuls, and of running water one ſpoonful, faſting after it one hour or better; uſe this from Michaelmas to the end of March; it will cure any achs or humours in the joints, dry rheums, keep off all diſeaſes to the fourth degree; it helps the dead palſy, and convulſions in the ſinews, ſharpens the memory, and from the begin⯑ning of taking it will keep the body mild, ſtrengthen nature, till the fulneſs of your day be finiſhed; nothing will be changed in your ſtrength, except the change in your hair; it will keep your teeth ſound that were not corrupted before; it will keep you from the gout, the dropſy, or any ſwellings of the joints or body.
To make Quince Wine.
Take your quinces when they are thorough ripe, wipe off the fur very clean; then take out the cores, bruiſe them as you do apples for cyder, and preſs them, adding to every gallon of juice two pounds and a half of fine ſugar; ſtir it together till it is diſſolved; then put it in your caſk, and when it has done working, ſtop it cloſe; let it ſtand till March before you bottle it. You may keep it two or three years, and it will be the better.
To make Lemon Wine.
Take ſix lemons, pare off the rind, cut them, ſqueeze out the juice, ſteep the rind in the juice and put to it a [128] quart of brandy; let it ſtand in an earthen pot cloſe ſtopt three days; then ſqueeze ſix more, and mix with two quarts of ſpring water, and as much ſugar as will ſweeten the whole; boil the water, lemons, and ſugar together, letting it ſtand till it is cool; then add a quart of white wine, and the other lemon and brandy; mix them together, and run it through a flannel bag into ſome veſſel; let it ſtand three months, and bottle it off; cork your bottles very well, and keep it cool; it will be fit to drink in a month or ſix weeks.
To make Barley Wine.
Take half a pound of French barley and boil it in three waters, and ſave three pints of the laſt water, and mix it with a quart of white wine, half a pint of borage water, as much clary water, a little red roſe-water, the juice of five or ſix lemons, three quarters of a pound of fine ſugar, and the thin yellow rind of a lemon; brew all theſe quick together, run the liquor through a ſtrainer and bot⯑tle it up; it is pleaſant in hot weather, and very good in fevers.
To make Plumb Wine.
Take twenty pounds of Malaga raiſins, pick, rub, and ſhred them, and put them into a tub; then take four gallons of fair water, boil it an hour, and let it ſtand till it is blood warm; then put it to your raiſins; let it ſtand nine or ten days, ſtirring it once or twice a day; ſtrain out your liquor, and mix with it two quarts of damſon-juice; put it in a veſſel, and when it has done working, ſtop it cloſe; at the end of four or five months bottle it.
To make Palermo Wine.
Take to every quart of water a pound of Malaga raiſins, rub and cut the raiſins ſmall, and put them [129] to the water, and let them ſtand ten days, ſtirring once or twice a day: You may boil the water an hour before you put it to the raiſins, and let it ſtand to cool; at ten days end ſtrain out your liquor, and put a little yeaſt to it, and at three days end put it in the veſſel, with one ſprig of dried worm⯑wood; let it be cloſe ſtopped, and at three months end bottle it off.
To make Clary Wine.
Take twenty-four pounds of Malaga raiſins, pick them and chop them very ſmall, put them in a tub, and to each pound a quart of water; let them ſteep ten or eleven days, ſtirring it twice every day; you muſt keep it covered cloſe all the while; then ſtrain it off, and put it into a veſſel, and about half a peck of the tops of clary, when it is in bloſ⯑ſom; ſtop it cloſe for ſix weeks, and then bottle it off; in two or three months it is fit to drink. It is apt to have a great ſettlement at bottom, therefore it is beſt to draw it off by plugs, or tap it pretty high.
To make Orange Wine with Raiſins.
Take thirty pounds of new Malaga raiſins, pick them clean, and chop them ſmall; you muſt have twenty large Seville oranges, ten of them you muſt pare as thin as for preſerving. Boil about eight gallons of ſoft water, till a third-part be conſumed; let it cool a little, then put five gallons of it hot upon your raiſins and orange-peel; ſtir it well to⯑gether, cover it up, and when it is cold, let it ſtand five days, ſtirring it up once or twice a day; then paſs it through a hair ſieve, and with a ſpoon preſs it as dry as you can; put it in a rundlet fit for it, and add to it the rinds of the other ten oranges, cut as thin as the firſt then make a ſyrup of the juice of twenty oranges, with a pound of white [130] ſugar. It muſt be made the day before you turn it up. Stir it well together, and ſtop it cloſe. Let it ſtand two months to clear, then bottle it up. It will keep three years, and is better for keeping.
To make Frontiniac Wine.
Take ſix gallons of water, twelve pounds of white ſugar, and ſix pounds of raiſins of the ſun cut ſmall; boil theſe together an hour; then take of the flowers of elder, when they are falling and will ſhake off, the quantity of half a peck; put them in the liquor when it is almoſt cold; the next day put in ſix ſpoonfuls of ſyrup of lemons, and four ſpoonfuls of [...]le yeaſt; two days after put it in a veſſel that is fit for it; when it has ſtood two months, bottle it off.
To make Engliſh Champaign, or the fine Currant Wine.
Take to three gallons of water nine pounds of Liſbon ſugar; boil the water and ſugar half an hour, ſkim it clean, then have one gallon of cur⯑rants picked, but not bruiſed; pour the liquor boiling hot over them, and, when cold, work it with half a pint of yeaſt two days; pour it through a flannel or ſieve; then put it into a barrel fit for it, with half an ounce of iſinglaſs well bruiſed; when it has done working, ſtop it cloſe for a month, then bottle it, and in every bottle put a very ſmall lump of double refined ſugar: This is excellent wine, and has a beautiful colour.
Mountain Wine.
Pick out the ſtalks of your Malaga raiſins, chop them ſmall, and add five pounds to every gallon of cold ſpring water, let them ſteep a fortnight or [131] more, ſqueeze out the liquor, and barrel it in a veſſel fit for it; firſt fume the veſſel with brimſtone. Don't ſtop it cloſe till the hiſſing is over.
To make Gilliflower Wine.
To three gallons of water put ſix pounds of the beſt powder ſugar; boil the water and ſugar to⯑gether for the ſpace of half an hour, keep ſcumming it as the ſcum riſes; let it ſtand to cool: Beat up three ounces of ſyrup of betony, with a large ſpoon⯑ful of ale-yeaſt, put it into the liquor, and brew it well together; then having a peck of gilliflowers, cut from the ſtalks, put them into the liquor, let them infuſe and work together three days covered with a cloth; ſtrain it, and put it into a caſk, and let it ſettle for three or four weeks, then bottle it.
To recover Wine that is turned ſharp.
Rack off your wine into another veſſel, and to ten gallons put the following powder: Take oyſter⯑ſhells, ſcrape and waſh off the brown dirty outſide of the ſhell, and dry them in an oven till they will powder; put a pound of this powder to every nine or ten gallons of your wine; ſtir it well together, and ſtop it up, then let it ſtand to ſettle two or three days, or till it is fine. As ſoon as it is fine, bottle it off, and cork it well.
To fine Wine the Liſbon Way.
To every twenty gallons of [...] take the whites of ten eggs, and a ſmall handful of ſalt; beat them together to a froth, and mix them well with a quart or more of the wine; then pour the wine and the whites into the veſſel, ſtir it well, and in a few days it will be fine.
To clear Wine.
[132]Take half a pound of hartſhorn, and diſſolve it in cyder, if it be for cyder, or Rheniſh wine for any other liquor. This is quite ſufficient for a hogſhead.
CORDIALS for the CLOSET.
Roſa Solis.
TAKE roſa ſolis, clean picked, four hand⯑fuls, nutmegs, carraway and coriander-ſeeds, mace, cloves, cinnamon, each half an ounce; gin⯑ger, cardamums, zedoary, calamus aromaticus, each a dram and a half; cubebs, yellow ſaunders, each half a dram; red ſaunders an ounce, liquorice two ounces, red roſe-leaves dried a handful, beſt brandy a gallon: Infuſe for ſome days, and ſtrain off the clear liquor, in which diſſolve white ſugar twelve ounces.
Another Way.
You muſt take of roſa ſolis, cleanſed, four hand⯑fuls; of cinnamon, nutmegs, carraway and corian⯑der ſeeds, each one ounce; cloves, mace, ginger, each three drams; cardamums, cubebs, zedoary, calamus aromaticus, each a dram; red roſes dried an ounce, liquorice two ounces, raiſins ſtoned half a pound, cochineal, ſaffron; each one dram; beſt brandy one gallon: Infuſe for eight days, and ſtrain it, to which add loaf ſugar twelve ounces.
To make Spirit of Carraway.
[133]To a quart of true ſpirit of ſack put two pounds of good ſmooth-ſugar'd carraways, bruiſe them, and put them into a bottle, with a grain of the beſt am⯑bergreaſe; pour the ſpirit on them, and ſeal the cork very cloſe; ſet it in the ſun for a month, ſtrain it off, and keep it always cloſe ſtopt for uſe. One ſpoonful does often give eaſe in the cholic.
Black Cherry Water Cordial.
Take two quarts of ſtrong claret, and four pounds of black cherries, full ripe, ſtamp them, and put them to the wine, with one handful of balm, and as much carduus, half as much mint, and as many roſemary-flowers as you can hold in both your hands, three handfuls of clove July-flowers, two ounces of cinnamon cut ſmall, one ounce of nutmegs; put all theſe into a deep pot, let them be well ſtirred to⯑gether, then cover it ſo cloſe that no air can get in; let it ſtand one day and a night, then put it into your ſtill, which you muſt alſo paſte cloſe, and draw as much as runs good; ſweeten it with ſugar-candy to your taſte. 'Tis good in any melancholy, or for the vapours.
A very rich Cherry Cordial.
Take a ſtone pot that has a broad bottom, and a narrow top, and lay a layer of black cherries, and a layer of very fine powdered ſugar; do this till your pot is full: Meaſure your pot, and to every gallon it holds put a quarter of a pint of true ſpirit of wine. You are to pick your cherries clean from ſoil and ſtalks, but not waſh them. When you have thus filled your pot, ſtop it with a cork, and tie firſt a bladder, then a leather over it; and if you fear it is not cloſe enough, pinch it down cloſe, and [134] bury it deep in the earth ſix months or longer; then ſtrain it out, and keep it cloſe ſtopped for your uſe. 'Twill revive, when all other cordials fail.
Dr. Stephens's Water.
You muſt take wild camomile, lavender, wild marjoram, mint, pellitory of the wall, thyme, red roſes, refemary, and ſage, each two handfuls; anni⯑ſeeds, fennel ſeeds, cinnamon, galangal, ginger, grains of Paradice and nutmeg, of each ſix drams; bruiſe all theſe ingredients, and put them into two gallons of canary or claret; let them infuſe for 24 hours, and then diſtil them off gently, the firſt and ſecond runnings each by itſelf. Broken leaf gold is commonly put in this.
Aqua Mirabilis.
Take cloves, mace, nutmegs, cinnamon, carda⯑mums, cubebs, galangals, and melliot flowers, of each two ounces; cowſlip flowers, roſemary flowers, and ſpear mint, of each four handfuls; a gallon of the juice of calendine, a gallon of brandy, a gallon of canary, and a gallon of white wine; infuſe them for twelve hours, and diſtil them off in a gen⯑tle ſand heat.
Clary Water.
Having a quart of borrage water, put it in an earthen jug, and fill it with two or three quarts of clary flowers, freſh gathered; let it infuſe an hour over the fire in a kettle of water, then take out the flowers, and put in as many freſh flowers, and ſo do for ſix or ſeven times together; then add to that water two quarts of the beſt ſack, and a gallon of freſh flowers, and two pounds of white ſugar candy, beaten ſmall, and diſtil all off in a cold ſtill; mix [135] all the water together when it is ſtilled, and ſweeten it to your taſte with the fineſt ſugar: Cork the bot⯑tles well, and keep it cool.
Citron Water.
Take thirty freſh lemon-peels, figs fourteen pounds, proof ſpirits three gallons, water as much as is neceſſary: Infuſe and diſtil, make it up high proof, and dulcify with double-refined ſugar, two pounds and a half for uſe.
Another Way.
Take beſt lemon-peel bruiſed, eighteen ounces, orange-peel nine ounces, nutmegs, bruiſed, one quarter of a pound, ſtrong proof ſpirits three gal⯑lons, water two gallons; macerate, diſtil, and dul⯑cify with double-refined loaf ſugar, two pounds for uſe.
Ratifia.
Take three gallons of melaſſes brandy, nuts two ounces and an half, bitter almonds one pound and a half; bruiſe them, and infuſe them in the brandy, adding ambergreaſe three grains, mixed with fine Liſbon ſugar three pounds; infuſe all for ſeven or eight days, and then ſtrain off for uſe.
Orange Flower Brandy.
Take a gallon of French brandy, and put it in a bottle that will hold it, then boil a pound of orange-flowers a little while, and put them to the brandy, ſave the water, and with that make a ſyrup to ſweeten it.
Of Brewing Strong OCTOBER BEER.
[136]CARE, in the firſt place, muſt be taken that the malt be very clean, and when it is ground, it ſhould ſtand four and twenty hours at leaſt in the ſacks.
The quantity is five quarters of malt to three hogſheads of beer, and eighteen pounds of hops, unleſs the malt be pale dried, then there muſt be added three or four pounds more.
The choice of liquor for brewing is of conſider⯑able advantage, the ſofteſt and cleaneſt water is the beſt.
You are to boil your firſt liquor, adding a hand⯑ful or two of hops to it, then, before your ſtrike it over to your malt, cool it in as much liquor as will bring it to a temper, not to ſcald the malt; for it is a fault not to take the liquor as high as poſſible, but not to ſcald.
The next liquors do the ſame.
And, indeed, all your liquors ought to be taken as high may be, that is, not to ſcald.
When you let your wort from your malt into the under-back, put to it a handful or two of hops, it will preſerve it from that accident which brewers call, Blinking or Foxing.
In boiling your worts, the firſt wort boil high or quick; for the quicker the wort is boiled the better it is.
The ſecond boil more than the firſt, and the third or laſt more than the ſecond.
In cooling, lay your worts thin, and let each be well cooled, and care muſt be taken in letting them down into the tun, that you do it leiſurely, to the end, that as little of the foeces, or ſediment, as [137] poſſible, may paſs with it, which cauſes the fer⯑mentation to be fierce or mild, for,
Note, There is in all fermented liquors ſalt and ſulphur, and to keep theſe two bodies in a due pro⯑portion, that the ſalt does not exalt itſelf above the ſulphur, conſiſts a great Part of the art in brewing.
When your wort is firſt let into your tun, put but a little yeaſt to it, and let it work by degrees quietly, and if you find it works but moderate, whip in the yeaſt two or three times or more, till you find your drink well fermented, for without a full opening of the body by fermentation, it will not be perfectly fine, nor will it drink clean or light.
When you cleanſe, do it by a cock from your tun, placed ſix inches from the bottom, to the end that moſt of the ſediment may be left behind, which may be thrown on your malt to mend your ſmall-beer.
When your drink is tunned, fill your veſſel full; let it work at the bung hole, and have a reſerve in a ſmall caſk to fill it up, and do not put any of the drink, which will be under the yeaſt after it is worked over, into your veſſels; but put it by itſelf into another caſk, for it will not be ſo good as your other in the caſk.
This done, you muſt wait for the finiſhing the fermentation; then ſtop it cloſe, and let it ſtand till the Spring, for brewing ought to be done in the month of October, that it may have time to ſettle and digeſt all the winter ſeaſon.
In the Spring you muſt unſtop your vent-hole, and thereby ſee whether your drink doth ferment or not; for as ſoon as the warm weather comes, your drink will have another fermentation, which, when it is over, let it be again well ſtopped, and ſtand till September, or longer, and then peg it if you find it pretty fine, the hop well rotted, and of a good taſte for drinking.
Another Way to brew Ale.
[140]Allow five buſhels and a half of malt to half a hogſhead of ale; put into your maſhing-tub forty-five gallons of liquor, becauſe, one-third part of the liquor will be ſoaked up by the malt, and a ſixth-part will waſte in boiling. For the ſecond wort, put but a little more liquor than you intend to make drink; and, if you have a large quantity of malt, you may make a third wort, putting in liquor, ac⯑cording to the quantity you would have.
Another Way of brewing Strong and Small Beer.
Let the water boil before you put it into the maſhing-vat, and let it ſtand till the ſteam is off about one hogſhead of water; then take your malt, and ſtrew it in with a hand-bowl, another keeping it ſtirring till it grows thick; then put in more water and malt as before, till you have got your quantity; reſerve ſome malt to cover the top about one inch thick; let it ſtand three hours, then draw it off at the bottom, and pour it in at the top till it runs fine; put your hops to the fine liquor, and keep them ſtirring till your liquor is ready to boil, then put them into the copper.
Twenty buſhels of malt will make two hogſheads of ſtrong, and four of ſmall beer: Ten pounds of hops are ſufficient. Or twenty buſhels of malt will make four hogſheads of good ale, and two of ſmall beer; but then you muſt put but eight pounds of hops to it, and let it not boil above an hour and an half.
Of cleaning and ſweetening Caſks.
If your caſk is a butt, then, with cold water firſt rinſe out the lees clean, and have ready boiling or very hot water, which put in, and with a long ſtale, and a little birch faſtened to its end, ſcrub [141] the bottom as well, as you can: At the ſame time let there be provided another ſhorter broom of about a foot and a half long, that wich one hand may be ſo employed in the upper and other parts as to clean the caſk well: So in a hogſhead or other ſmaller veſſel, the one handed ſhort broom may be uſed with water, or with water and ſand, or aſhes, and be effectually cleanſed; the outſide of the caſk, about the bung-hole, ſhould be well waſhed, leaſt the yeaſt, as it works over, carries ſome of its filth with it.
But to ſweeten a barrel, kilderkin, firkin, or pin, in the great brewhouſes, they put them over the copper-hole for a night together, that the ſteam of the boiling water, or wort, may penetrate into the wood; this way is ſuch a furious ſearcher, that un⯑leſs the caſk is new hooped juſt before, it will be apt to fall in pieces.
Another Way.
We take a pottle, or more, of ſtone lime, and put it into the caſk; on this pour ſome water, and ſtop it up directly, ſhaking it well about.
Another.
Having got a long linen rag, dip it in melted brimſtone, light it at the end, and let it hang pen⯑dant with the upper part of the rag faſtened to the wooden bung; this is a moſt quick ſure way, and will not only ſweeten, but help to fine the drink.
Another.
Or, to make your caſk more pleaſant, you may uſe the vintner's way, thus: Take four ounces of ſtone brimſtone, one ounce of burnt allum, and two ounces of brandy; melt all theſe in an earthen [...] [144] it three pails of water; bung it immediately with a wood or cork bung, and ſhake it well about for a quarter of an hour, and let it ſtand a day and night, and it will bring off the red colour, and alter the taſte of the cask very much.
To fine, reliſh, and ſtrengthen Amber Beer.
Take one gallon of wheat flour, ſix pounds of moloſſus, four pounds of Malaga raiſins, one gallon of malt ſpirits, free of any burnt or other ill tang, and two ſmall handfuls of ſalt. Make all up into dumplings, and put them into the bung-hole of the cask or butt. It will cauſe a fermentation, there⯑fore do not ſtop up too ſoon.
To cure a Butt of Ropy Beer.
Mix two handfuls of bean-flour with one handful of ſalt, and it will anſwer the end very well.
Another Way.
Take ſome hops that have been well infuſed, or ſtewed on purpoſe two hours; mix theſe with the wort they were ſtewed in, and ſome other ſtrong wort, and put into your beer.
Another Way.
Beat an ounce of allum very fine, and mix it with two handfuls of horſe-bean flour, and put it into your caſk.
To feed a Butt of Beer.
Bake a rye loaf, of two-pence price, with a pretty deal of nutmeg in it; then cut it in pieces, and put it in a bag of hops with ſome wheat, and put them altogether into your cask.
To cure Muſty Drink.
[145]Run it through ſome hops that have been boiled in ſtrong wort, and afterwards work it with two-parts new drink to one of the muſty old; this is called Vamping, and is a cure for muſty, fox'd, or ſtinking beer.
To feed and give a fine Flavour to a Barrel of Beer.
Put ſix ſea-biſcuits into a bag of hops, and put it altogether into the caſk.
To fine Drink in twenty-four Hours.
Put a piece of lime, made from ſoft, not hard, chalk, about as big again as a hen's egg, which will diſturb the liquor, and cauſe it afterwards to be fine, and draw off briſk at the laſt, though flat be⯑fore; this quantity will do for a kilderkin.
To recover a Kilderkin of ſtale Small Beer.
Put two ounces of good hops, and one pound of mellow fat chalk, broke into about ſix pieces, into the bung-hole, and immediately ſtop it up cloſe. In three days you may tap it, and it will prove ſound and pleaſant to the laſt.
SHERBET.
To make Sherbet.
HAVING pounded calves feet with part of a fillet of veal, cleared from the fat, put them into a [146] pot, with a proportionable quantity of water and white-wine; let them boil for a conſiderable time, and take off the ſcum carefully. When your meat comes to rags, and there is only left a third part of the broth, ſtrain it through a cloth, and ſkim off all the fat with two or three feathers. Afterward turn the whole meſs into a pan, with a ſtick of cinnamon, two or three cloves, a little lemon-peel, and as much ſugar as will ſerve to make it a pleaſant liquor. Let all boil together; clarify it with the white of an egg whip'd, and paſs it through the ſtraining-bag.— When this liquor is to be kept for a long time, it is requiſite to allow two pounds of ſugar for every quart of broth, or juice of meat, obſerving for the reſt the former directions: But at laſt the liquor is to be boiled to its pearled degree, and put into bottles.
METHEGLIN.
To make White Metheglin.
YOU muſt take ſweet-marjoram, ſweet-briar buds, ſtrawberry-leaves and violets, of each two handfuls; double violets (if they are to be had) broad thyme, borage, and agrimony, of each two handfuls; ſix or eight tops of roſemary, the ſeeds of carraways, coriander and fennel, of each four ſpoonfuls, and ſix or eight large blades of mace. Boil all theſe ingredients in ſixteen gallons of water for three quarters of an hour or better, ſcum and ſtrain the liquor, and having ſtood till it is luke⯑warm, put to it as much of the beſt honey as will make it bear an egg the breadth of a ſix-pence above the water; then boil it again as long as any ſcum will riſe, and ſet it to cool; when it is almoſt cold, put in a pint of new ale yeaſt, and when it has worked till you perceive the yeaſt to fall, turn it up, and ſuffer it to work in the caſk till the yeaſt is done riſing, fill it up every day with ſome of the ſame liquor, ſtopping it up. Put into it, in a bag, [147] a couple of nutmegs ſliced, a few cloves, mace and cinnamon, all unbruiſed, and a grain or two of muſk.
CYDER.
To make Cyder.
GET apples ſo thoroughly ripe, that they will eaſily fall by ſhaking the tree; the apples proper are Pippins, Pomewaters, Harveys, or other apples of a watery juice; either grind or pound them, and ſqueeze them in a hair-bag; put the juice up into a ſeaſoned caſk.
The caſk is to be ſeaſoned with a rag dipped in brimſtone, tied to the end of a ſtick, and put it in burning into the bung-hole of the cask, and when the ſmoak is gone, waſh it with a little warm liquor, that has run through a ſecond ſtraining of the murc, or husk of the apples.
Put into the cask, when the cyder is in, a bit of paſte made of flour, and tied up in a thin rag; let it ſtand for a week, and then draw it off from them the less into another ſeaſoned cask.
Some adviſe to put three or four pounds of raiſins into a hogſhead, and two pounds of ſugar to make it work the better.
To make Royal Cyder.
When the cyder is fine and paſt its fermen⯑tation, but not ſtale, put to each gallon of cyder a pint and a half of brandy, or ſpirits drawn off from cyder, and alſo half a pint of cyder ſweets to every gallon of cyder, more or leſs, according to the tartneſs or harſhneſs of the cyder. The ſpirits [148] and ſweets muſt be mixed together, and mixed with an equal quantity of the cyder, and then they are to be put into the cask of cyder, and all ſtirred to⯑gether with a ſtick at the bung-hole for a quarter of an hour, and the bung-hole muſt be well ſtopped down, and the cask rolled about ten or twelve times to mix them well together. Let it ſtand for three or four months, and you may either draw it or bot⯑tle it off.
To recover any Cyder that is decayed, although it be quite ſour.
From ahogſhead of pale ſour cyder draw out as much as by boiling with ſix pounds of brown ſugar candy will make a perfect ſyrup. Let the ſyrup ſtand till it is thoroughly cold, pour it into the hogſhead, and ſtop it very cloſe. This will raiſe a fe [...]mentation, but not a violent one. There muſt be room in the veſſel for the cyder to work, and in a few days it will be fit to drink.
To make Cyderkin, or Water Cyder.
After paring half a buſhel of apples, core them, and boil them in a barre [...] of water, till one third part is conſumed; ſtrain it, and put the liquor to a buſhel or more of ground or ſtamp'd apples unboiled; let them ſtand to digeſt for twenty-four hours, preſs out the liquor, and put it into casks; let it ſer⯑ment, then ſtop it up cloſe, but give it vent fre⯑quently, that it may not burſt the cask; and when it has ſtood till it is fine, you may either draw or bottle it.
MUM.
Take ſixty-three gallons of water, that has been boiled to the conſumption of a third-part, brew it [149] according to art with ſeven buſhels of wheat malt, of oatmeal and ground beans a buſhel each. When it is tunned, let not the hogſhead be too full at firſt, and as ſoon as it begins to work, put into it of the inner rind of fir three pounds, tops of fir and birch one pound; Carduus Benedictus, three hand⯑fuls, flowers of Roſa Solis, a handful or two; bur⯑net, betony, marjoram, avens, penny-royal, wild thyme of each a handful and a half; of elder⯑flowers, two handfuls or more; ſeeds of cardamum bruiſed, three ounces; barberries bruiſed, one ounce: Put the herbs and ſeeds into the veſſel when the liquor has wrought a-while; and, after they are added, let the liquor work over the veſſel as little as may be. Fill it up at laſt, and when it is ſtop⯑ped, put into the hogſhead ten new-laid eggs un⯑broken or cracked. Stop it up cloſe, and drink it at two years end.
Engliſh brewers uſe cardamum, ginger, and ſaſ⯑ſafras, inſtead of the inner rind of fir; alſo the rinds of walnuts, madder, red-ſaunders, and ele⯑campane. Some make it of ſtrong beer and ſpruce beer, and where it is deſigned chiefly for its phy⯑ſical virtues, ſome add water-creſſes, brook-lime, and wild parſley, with ſix handfuls of horſe-radiſh raſped to every hogſhead, according to their parti⯑cular inclination or fancy.
To make Orgeat.
Take two ounces of melon-ſeeds, half an ounce of pompion-ſeeds, and half an ounce of Jordan almonds, blanched, with ſix or ſeven bitter almonds: Beat the whole compound in a mortar, and reduce it to a paſte, ſo as to leave no clods, ſprinkling the ſame now and then with five or ſix drops of orange-flower water, to hinder it from turning to o [...]l: When your ſeeds and almonds are thoroughly ſtamped, add thereto half a pound of ſugar, which is to be likewiſe well pounded with your paſte; [150] then ſlip the ſaid paſte into two quarts of water, and let it ſteep therein: Afterwards put in about a ſpoonful of orange-flower water, and paſs the liquor through a ſtraining-bag, preſſing the groſs ſubſtance very hard, ſo as nothing may be left therein; you may alſo pour in a glaſs of new milk. Laſtly, turn your liquor into two bottles, and ſet it by to cool.
RECEIPTS in PHYSIC.
A good Electuary for an Aſthma.
TAKE four cloves of garlic, roaſt them till they are ſoft; then bruiſe out the pulp, and put it into ſix ſpoonfuls of honey, two ſpoonfuls of the powder of elecampane, liquorice, anniſeeds, and coriander-ſeeds, all finely powdered, of each one ſpoonful and a half; mix all well together, and take the bigneſs of a nutmeg morning and night.
A Bolus for an Aſthma.
You muſt take a dram of ſperma-ceti, half a ſcruple of lac-ſulphuris, volatile ſalt of amber five grains, conſerve of hips one ſcruple, balſam of Peru ten drops, and ſyrup of ſaffron ſufficient to make a bolus.
A Doſe for an Ague.
Give as much Virginia ſnake-root, dried and powdered, as will lie upon a ſhilling, in a glaſs of ſherry or ſack, juſt before the cold fit begins; uſe this two or three times till the ague is gone.
To prevent a Relapſe of the Apoplexy.
[151]Once every third day, at about four o'clock in the morning, take two ſcruples of Pilla Cochia the greater, and ſleep after them; repeat it ſix times.
A ſneezing Powder for the Apoplexy.
Take one dram of the root of white hellebore, two drams of the flowers of lilies of the valley; mix, and reduce them to a powder, and blow it up the noſtrils with a quill.
The following Gliſter is good in an Apoplexy, Lethargy, Coma, or Palſy.
Get pellitory of Spain, half an ounce; coloquin⯑tida (tied up in a rag, or elſe it will gripe) half a dram; rue, two handfuls; boil it in water to twelve ounces; ſtrain it, and add three ounces of crocus metallorum; tincture of caſtor, half an ounce; ſalt gem, and oil of amber, of each two drams, and mix all together.
If it ſtay not with the patient, it muſt be repeat⯑ed; for it is no unuſual thing in theſe caſes for gliſters to ſlip away preſently, by reaſon that the inteſtines having their fibres benumbed, and para⯑lytically relaxed, loſe their retentive faculty.
A Drink for any Inward Bruiſe or Wound.
Take one handful of each of the following herbs, viz. wormwood, comfrey, throatwort, wood betony, plantane, mugwort, bonewort, ſcabious, avens, wild honey-ſuckle, agrimony, bramble-buds, cinquefoil, ſpearmint, ſanicle, whitebottle, ribwort, daiſy-roots, dandelion, bugloſs, and hauthorn-buds: Put to theſe herbs two quarts of white-wine, and a gallon of [152] running water, and boil it till it is half waſted; then ſtrain it, and add to it a quart of honey; let that boil in the liquor ſome time: When it is cold, bottle it very cloſe, and keep it for uſe. It will keep for many years, and is neceſſary for all fami⯑lies; two or three ſpoonfuls of it to be taken morning and night. It is really good for fores, wounds, and hurts, new or old, in men, women, or children: Its virtues of that kind are too long to mention. It has broken and brought away inward impoſthumes.
A certain Cure for the Bite of a Mad Dog, by Dr. Mead.
Let the patient be blooded at the arm nine or ten ounces: Then take of the herb called in Latin, Lichen Cereneus Terreſtris, in Engliſh, Aſh-colour'd Ground Liverwort, cleaned, dried, and powdered, half an ounce; of black pepper powdered, two drams. Mix theſe well together, and divide the powder into four doſes, one of which muſt be taken every morning faſting, for four mornings ſucceſ⯑ſively, in half a pint of cow's milk warm. After theſe four doſes are taken, the patient muſt go into the cold-bath, or a cold ſpring or river, every morn⯑ing faſting, for a month: He muſt be dipt all over, but not ſtay in (with his head above water) longer than half an minute, if the water be very cold. After this he muſt go in three times a week for a fortnight longer.
N. B. The Lichen is a very common herb, and grows generally in ſandy and barren ſoils all over England. The right time to gather them is in the months of October or November.
Some adviſe, that as ſoon as poſſibly it can be done, the wound may be burnt with a hot iron; by which, part of the venom may be exhaled, and the [...]e prevented from ſpreading itſelf any farther, [153] which good effect is very likely to follow from the purſing up the ſmall veſſels, and the coagulation of the adjacent fluids.
A Plaiſter for the Breaſt, to diſſolve curdled Milk.
Take ſperma-ceti, one ounce; white wax, two ounces; galbanum, ſtrained with vinegar, half an ounce; oil of elder, as much as will be ſufficient to make a plaiſter; it is proper for all tumours of the breaſt, occaſioned by the curdling of the milk, and is good in white ſoft ſwellings, or the evil in the breaſt, or any hard tumour in any part of the body.
A Plaiſter to break a Sore-breaſt.
Seeth a lily-root and piece of leaven in milk till the root be ſoft; lay it plaiſter-wiſe to the part, morning and evening, as hot as you can bear it.
A Cerecloth for Swellings in the Breaſt.
Make a cerecloth of oil of linſeed and yellow wax, and apply it to the part, firſt anointing it with linſeed-oil.
To heal a Breaſt when broken.
Take a good handful of parſley, and a good ſlice of the fat of bacon, and ſtamp them together; put to it the yolk of an egg, and ſpread it plaiſter-wiſe upon a cloth, and lay it upon the breaſt.
An excellent and tried Remedy for Burns.
Take two parts of the oil of walnuts, and one of honey; mix them well together over a gentle fire, and when they are thoroughly incorporated, dip a feather in the mixture, and anoint therewith the [154] part affected, ſo as the ointment may touch it im⯑mediately, and then ſtrew on it ſome powder of ceterach, or ſpleen-wort, and keep the part quiet, and defend it from the air.
For Burns and Stenching of Blood.
For ſtenching of blood, there are but few medi⯑cines which exceed the colcother [...]f vitriol, whether waſhed and freed from its ſalt, or not waſhed. It is but a common thing, but will do more than a thouſand much more enobled.
A Family Ointment for Chilblains, Kibes, Whitloes, Felons, &c.
Take May butter, ſeven ounces; wax, reſin, of each four ounces; crude honey, ten drams; wheat flour, ſix drams: Mix them, and ſpread it upon leather; apply it to the part affected; change it twice a day till it begins to grow well. It alſo warms, looſens, diſcuſſes, cleans, [...]ipens, and digeſts, and is of known ſervice in the ſpeedy curing of felons and whitloes in the fingers; it is of ſingular uſe to abate inflammations, and bring ſwellings to ripeneſs and maturity.
For the Cholic.
Slice one ounce of the very beſt rhubarb you can get into a quart of ſack; let it infuſe twelve hours at leaſt; then drink four large ſpoonfuls, and fill your bottle up again: Drink this quantity once a day, for ſix weeks or two months, at leaſt. When your rhubarb has loſt its virtue, you muſt put freſh. This has cured ſome people, who could not find eaſe in opiates, nor the Bath; it muſt be conſtantly con⯑tinued till the bowels and blood are ſtrengthened: It has done ſuch marvellous cures, even where lau⯑danum [155] has failed, that it cannot be ſufficiently commended.
An infallible Cure for a Conſumption.
Take half a pound of raiſins of the ſun ſtoned, a quarter of a pound of figs, a quarter of a pound of [...], half an ounce of Lucatella's balſam, half an ouncce of powder of ſteel, half an ounce of flour of [...]campane, a grated nutmeg, one pound of double-refined ſugar, pounded: Shred and pound all theſe together in a ſtone mortar; pour into it a pint of [...] oil by degrees; eat a bit of it four times a [...], the bigneſs of a nutmeg; every morning drink [...] of old Malaga ſack, with the yolk of a new⯑ [...] egg, and as much flour of brimſtone as will lie [...] a ſix-pence; the next morning as much flour [...] elecampane, alternately.
To cure a Cough and Shortneſs of Breath.
Take elecampane-roots, boil them very tender, [...] pulp them fine through a ſieve; take their [...] in the pulp of coddled pippins; if you have [...]ound weight of both together, boil it in a pint [...] half of clarified honey for half an hour; then [...] one ounce of powder of liquorice, and as much [...] of anniſeeds; mix all well together, and [...] a dram morning and night, and in the after⯑noon. It is an excellent medicine in an aſthma.
For a Hooping Cough, very good.
When you have got a quart of ſpring-water, put [...] a large handful of chin-cups that grow upon [...], and a large handful of unſet hyſſop; boil it [...] pint, ſtrain it off, and ſweeten it with ſugar⯑ [...]. Let the child, as oft as it coughs, take two [...]nfuls at a time.
An excellent Powder for Convulſion Fits.
[156]Get two drams of piony roots; miſletoe of the oak, one dram; prepared pearl, white amber pre⯑pared, and coral prepared, of each half a dram bezoar, two grains, and five leaves of gold; make all theſe into a very fine powder, and give as much of it as will lie on a three-pence to a child of a month old, and proportionable to a bigger; mix it up with a ſpoonful of black-cherry water, which ſweeten with the ſyrup of black cherries: Take it three days together, at every change of the moon to prevent returns.
A Cure for the Cramp.
Take a handful of the herb called perriwinkle ſome of it bears a blue flower, and ſome white and alſo take a good handful of roſemary tops, put them into a pewter diſh, and ſet them upon coals dry them, and turn them very often, and when they are very hot, lay them upon the place that is taken with the cramp, and bind a cloth upon the when you go to bed, and this will help you; take off in the morning, and lay on freſh at night.
A good Remedy for the Corns.
Get the yeaſt of beer, not ale, and ſpreading upon a linen rag, or other cloth, apply it to [...] part affected, renewing it once every day.
An excellent Purging Ale for the Dropſy.
Sena, four ounces; ſaſſafras and tartar, of [...] two ounces; jalap and liquorice, of each one ounce; rhubarb, coriander, and anniſeed, of each one ounce; polypodium, eight ounces; broom [...] one quart, and one ounce of cloves; put all [...] [157] bag, with ſome little weight to ſink it: Take ſca⯑bious and agrimony, of each three handfuls; of the roots of daneſwort, one handful; raiſins of the ſun ſtoned, one pound, with a little ginger: Put theſe ingredients into ſweet ale-wort, when you put in your hops, and let all boil together half an hour; then pour it ſcalding hot on your bag of drugs: When it is cold enough, ſet it to work with yeaſt: When it has done working, ſtop it up for twelve days, or a fortnight: Hang the bag of drugs in the veſſel. Drink a large glaſs of this in the morning, and at four in the afternoon, unleſs you find it works too much at firſt; if ſo, leſſen your doſe; but take it daily, till you have taken all.
Another Medicine for the Dropſy.
Take broom, and burn it by itſelf in a clean oven, ſhift the aſhes from the ſtalks and coals that are not quite conſumed, and put two full pounds of theſe aſhes into a quart bottle; pour on old hock till the bottle is up to the neck; take care it is not too full; if it has no room to ferment, it will be apt to ſplit the bottle: Digeſt it in hot aſhes by the fire, or in the ſun, and ſhake it often; when it has ſtood three or four days, pour off a quart of the clear lye; if it is perfectly fine, decant again and again till it is ſo; fill up your bottle again with hock, and do as before, till the ſtrength of the aſhes be out. Drink this firſt, and at four or five in the afternoon; continue it for ſome time, and it will carry off the dropſical humours. While you take it, let the meat you eat be dry roaſted, and your drink ſtrong ale or wine.
To cure Deafneſs.
Take an equal quantity of good Hungary water, and oil of bitter almonds; beat them together, and [158] drop three drops in the ears going to bed; ſtop them with black [...], and repeat this nine nights at leaſt.
For a Pain in the Ear.
Get the juice of mountain ſage, oil of fennel, oil of bitter almonds, and oil of olives, an equal quantity of each, and mix them well together; drop into the pained ear three drops for three nights. It will eaſe and draw out any impoſthume, if that be the cauſe.
For an Earwig having got into the Ear.
Get rue, and beat it in a mortar; then ſtrain off the juice, and put it into the ear; then lie down to reſt on the contrary ear, and when you awake the juice will come out, and the ear-wig will be dead.
The juice of wormwood, of ſouthernwood, and rue, an equal quantity put into the ear, will all kill any vermin that has got into it. The ſtems of coffee have often relieved a deafneſs that has been occaſioned by the wax becoming too hard, which they will ſoften and ſet free.
Dr. Willis's Specific for the Epilepſy.
Take the roots of male piony, dried and powder⯑ed, from one dram to two or three twice a day, [...] the following tincture:
Take leaves of miſleto of the oak, two drams, piony roots ſliced, half an ounce; caſtor, a dram; let them be put in a cloſe veſſel with betony water or ſimple water and white-wine, of each one pound, ſalt of miſleto of the oak, or the common miſleto two drams; digeſt them in a cloſe veſſel, in a [...] heat for two days. Take three ounces with the powder above-mentioned.
A Draught for the Epilepſy.
[159]Get powder of wild valerian root, one dram and a half; penny-royal water, and black-cherry water, of each one ounce and a half; ſyrup of pionies, two drams; mix them, and make a draught.
A Drink for the King's Evil and Cancer.
Take guaiacum, one ounce; ſaſſafras, ſarſapa⯑rilla, ſharp-pointed dock, and daiſy-roots, of each half an ounce; arch-angel flowers, and millepedes, of each two large ſpoonfuls; ground-ivy, and herb-Robert, of each one handful: Bruiſe and ſhred all theſe ingredients, and put them to ſteep one night in three pints of good clear new ale; ſtrain it, and drink no other drink for ſix weeks, ſpring and fall. You may do a larger quantity at a time for man or woman; but you muſt not infuſe too much at a time, becauſe the herbs are apt to change it; at the ſame time, if the ſwellings are painful, anoint with juice of rue, prepared as follows:
Take two ſpoonfuls of juice of rue, as much ſal⯑lad-oil, beat them well together; then ſet it over the fire, and let it boil ſlowly half an hour; add two ounces of bees-wax, let it boil a little with this: Pour it out, and keep it cloſe covered. It is an incomparable ointment to uſe all the time you take the diet-drink.
The red Powders for Fevers, Small-Pox, or Surſeits.
Take of carduus, rue, red ſage, lilies of the val⯑ley, tormentil, pimpernel, dragon, betony, angeli⯑ca, cabious, ſpeedwell, of each one handful; worm⯑wood, [158] [...] [159] [...] [160] half a handful; agrimony, verum, of each a quarter of a handful: Shred the herbs very ſmall, and infuſe them in two quarts of white-wine, in a jug, which you muſt ſtop very cloſe, and ſet nine days in the ſun: Then ſtrain the wine from the herbs, and infuſe the ſame quantity of freſh herbs in the ſame wine; let it ſtand as before nine days more: Then take a pound of bole-armoniac, finely powdered, and put as much of the wine (after it is a ſecond time preſſed out) as the powder will take up, and ſet it in the ſun to dry; and as it dries up, put in more of the wine, ſtirring it two or three times a day till all the wine is dried up in the powder, ſo as to be fit to work like paſte: Then put to it of diacodium and mithridate, one ounce each; half an ounce of cochineal; of powder of red coral and prepared ſaffron, an ounce each; forty grains of bezoar; of powder of crabs-eyes, burnt hartſhorn, and prepared pearl, an ounce each: Mix theſe in the laſt wetting, and work them all to⯑gether; make them into balls, when well mixed, and dry them in the ſun. Take forty or fifty grains of this for a coſe. Drink mace ale after it.
A cooling Drink in a Fever or Pleuriſy.
Put an ounce of pearl-barley into three pints of water, ſhift it twice; beat half an ounce of almonds, with a bit of lemon-peel, and a ſpoonful or two of the water; when they are very fine, waſh the al⯑mond-milk through your ſieve, with three pints of barley-water; in the laſt boiling of this you may put melon-ſeeds and pumpion-ſeeds, of each half an ounce; white poppy-ſeeds, half a dram; when theſe, are well boiled, mix the liquor with the almonds, and ſtrain all; ſweeten it with ſyrup of lemons for a fever, or ſyrup of maiden-hair, and drink four ounces every three or four hours.
A ſpeedy Remedy for Fits of Vomiting.
[161]Having got a large nutmeg, grate one half of it, and toaſt the flat ſide of the other 'till the oily part begins to ſweat out; then clap it to the pit of the patient's ſtomach as hot as can be endured, and keep it on whilſt it continues warm, and then, if need be, put on another. This is recommended by the famous Mr. Boyle.
To ſtop a Vomiting.
Take lemon-juice, half an ounce; ſalt of worm⯑wood a ſcruple; and a little white ſugar: Mix, and make a Draught, to be repeated two or three times a day.
To ſtop a Vomiting, and ſtrengthen the Stomach.
Take ſpearmint, barley, and cinnamon waters, of each three ounces; plegue water, two ounces; ſalt of wormwood, a dram; lemon-juice, one ounce; three leave of gold; confection of hyacinth, two drams; ſyrup of red poppies, an ounce and a half: Mix, and give four ſpoonfuls every four hours, ſhaking the phial.
For Vomiting and violent Looſeneſs in a Child.
Bleed three times, and apply a cupping-glaſs to the navel. Take the red tops of gil-go-by-the-ground, dry them, and mix them with honey: It is good for any hoarſeneſs: The tops are to be had in May, June, or July.
A good Powder for Worms.
Take an ounce of worm-ſeed, and half an ounce of rhubarb, beat both to a fine powder, and take a [162] quarter of an ounce of prepared coral; mix all three together, and let the child take as much of this as will lie on a ſhilling, for three mornings together, drinking a ſmall glaſs of warm ale after each doſe.
A Receipt to cure Worms.
Bruiſe a pound of worm-ſeed, and put it into a arge ſtill of ſpearmint, and draw it off as long as it runs good: Let the child drink three ſpoon [...]uls of this nine mornings running.
To ſtanch Blood in a Wound.
Take an ounce of copperaſs, made into fine pow⯑der, and half an ounce of bole armoniac powdered, and mingle them together, and caſt ſome of this powder into the wound, and it will ſtaunch the blood.
For Wounds in the Head.
If theſe are attended with con [...]uſion, it may be proper to ſhave the adjoining parts. Some make uſe only of warm wine, oil, vinegar, or oxycrate, to embrocate them, or rub in. If the wound be recent, ſimple, and made by a ſharp inſtrument, it may be immediately ſtitched up, and covered with Emplaſtr. de Minio; and this method is ſometimes ſucceſsful, even tho' the ſkull itſelf be cut, provided no ill ſymptoms indicate a contrary method.
SOME GENERAL RULES TO BE OBSERVED IN COOKERY.
[]BEFORE we conclude this Work, we think it may not be improper to give our readers ſome General Rules in Cookery.
- I. In all ſoups you muſt obſerve not to put in your thickening, 'till your herbs are very tender.
- II. When you boil any greens, firſt ſoak them near two hours in water and ſalt, or elſe boil them in water and ſalt in a copper by themſelves, with a great quantity of water: Boil no meat with them for that diſcolours them.
- III. Uſe no iron pans, &c. for they are not proper; but let them be copper, braſs, or ſilver.
- IV. When you fry any Fiſh, firſt dip them in yolks of eggs, and fry them rather in a ſtew-pan over the fire, and that will make them of a light gold colour.
- [164] V. White ſauces being now more generally uſed than brown; theſe are chiefly to be made ſo with cream, and adding a little Champaign or French white wine, and butter rolled up in flour.
- VI. Parboil all your meats that you uſe for fri⯑caſees, or elſe ſtewing them too long on the fire will make them hard.
- VII. In roaſting or boiling, a quarter of an hour to every pound of meat, at a ſteady fire, is the beſt rule that can be given to do it to perfection.
- VIII. When you beat almonds, always put in orange flower-water, or roſe-water, to prevent their turning to oil, which they are ſubject to.
- IX. When you dreſs mutton, pigeons, &c. in blood, always wring in ſome lemon-juice, to keep it from changing.
- X. When you grill any thing, let it be over a ſtove of charcoal, rather than ſea-coal; it makes it eat ſweeter and ſhorter; turn your meat very often.