[] LETTERS, &c.

LETTER I.

I Am now at Doneſchingen, in my way towards Swiſſerland; a country long celebrated for the peculiari⯑ties of its different governments, and for the ſingular beauties conferred upon it by nature. As both theſe circum⯑ſtances cannot fail of being highly in⯑tereſting to any one, who has the leaſt degree of curioſity; I propoſe to my⯑ſelf great ſatisfaction in this tour: not without ſome regret, however, that [2] our time for this expedition is extreme⯑ly limited, and that we ſhall not be able to viſit as much as I could wiſh of ſo delightful a country. But as it is always one's intereſt, not ſo much to regret what we cannot have, as to make the moſt of what is in our power; I ſhall endeavour to gain all the in⯑formation, which the ſhortneſs of the time will admit: and, if it will not be treſpaſſing upon your patience, I pro⯑poſe to trouble you with ſome account of my tour; writing however, only when it may be convenient to me, and with⯑out promiſing that you will find me a very punctual correſpondent. I am per⯑ſuaded, that I ſhall travel with much greater profit to myſelf, when I am thus to inform you of all that I have ſeen; as the reflection that my obſervations are to be communicated to you, will be one means of rendering me more attentive and accurate in forming them.

We quitted Straſbourg yeſterday, and croſſed the Rhine to Kehl, formerly an [3] important fortreſs belonging to Straſ⯑bourg when an imperial city. It was alſo ſtrongly fortified by the French, who took poſſeſſion of it in 1648; but it was ceded to the Empire at the peace of Ryſwic: the Emperor conſigned it over to the houſe of Baden, reſerving, however, to himſelf the right of having a garriſon therein. Since that period, it has been twice beſieged by the French; and as during the laſt ſiege, in 1733, the works were conſiderably da⯑maged, the imperial garriſon has been withdrawn: at preſent, there are only the ruins of the ancient fortifications; and by way of garriſon, a few invalids belonging to the Margrave of Baden. From thence we proceeded to Offen⯑bourg, a ſmall imperial town; and ſoon after, entered the beautiful valley of Kinſing; paſſed through Gengenbach, another ſmall imperial town, finely ſituated; and went up the valley along the courſe of the river Kinſing; riſing [4] gradually for ſeveral leagues together, until we found ourſelves in the midſt of the Black Foreſt. As we aſcended, the country became more wild and ro⯑mantic, and the river more rapid; on each hand mountains, whoſe ſides were finely cultivated, and whoſe tops were richly covered with a continual foreſt. Several ſmall ſtreams of the cleareſt water rolled down the ſides of the mountains, forming numberleſs little caſcades in their paſſage; and uniting, fell into the Kinſing. The views were ſo exceedingly diverſified; the villages ſo delightfully ſituated; and the cot⯑tages ſo exceedingly pictureſque, that we almoſt imagined we had antici⯑pated the romantic beauties of Swiſſer⯑land.

Doneſchingen is the principal reſi⯑dence of the prince of Furſtenberg: in the court-yard of his palace, the Danube takes its riſe. I am this mo⯑ment returned from viſiting the ſpot: [5] the deſcription of which may be com⯑priſed in a few words. Some ſmall ſprings riſing from the ground, form a baſon of clear water, of about thirty foot ſquare: from this pool iſſues the Danube, being at firſt nothing more than a little brook. And though the two ſmall rivers of Bribach and Brege, uniting below the town, are far more conſiderable than this ſtream, which flows into them ſoon after their junc⯑tion; yet it is the latter that alone has the honour of being called the ſource of the Danube, and gives name to the other two. After we had gone through the ceremony of ſtriding acroſs the ſtream, in order to ſay, that we had ſtepped over the Danube, we ſoon ſa⯑tisfied our curioſity; the object itſelf being in no reſpect extraordinary, but deriving its principal recommendation from being one of the ſources of ſo conſiderable a river. Indeed, it was this circumſtance alone that induced [6] us to enter Swiſſerland by the way of Suabia.

LETTER II.

I HAVE great pleaſure in breathing the air of liberty: every perſon here has apparently the mien of content and ſatisfaction. The cleanlineſs of the houſes, and of the people, is peculiarly ſtriking; and I can trace in all their manners, behaviour, and dreſs, ſome ſtrong outlines, which diſtinguiſh this happy people from the neighbouring nations. Perhaps it may be prejudice and unreaſonable partiality; but I am the more pleaſed, becauſe their firſt ap⯑pearance very much reminds me of my [7] own countrymen, and I could almoſt think, for a moment, that I am in England.

Schaffhauſen is a neat and tolerably well-built town, ſituated upon the northern ſhore of the Rhine. It is the capital of the canton of the ſame name, and owes its origin to the interruption of the navigation of that river by the cataract at Lauffen: huts were at firſt conſtructed here for the convenience of unloading the merchandize from the boats; and theſe huts, by degrees, en⯑creaſed to a large town. Schaffhauſen was formerly an imperial city, and was governed by an ariſtocracy: it preſerved its liberties, which were attacked by the Dukes of Auſtria, by entering into an alliance with ſeveral other imperial towns, and with the Swiſs cantons. In 1501, it was admitted a member of the Helvetic confederacy; being the twelfth canton in rank. Of all the cantons, it is the leaſt in ſize, being only five leagues in [8] length and three in breadth: its popu⯑lation is ſuppoſed to amount to twenty⯑five thouſand ſouls; of which, the ca⯑pital contains about ſix thouſand.

The whole number of citizens or burgeſſes (in whom the ſupreme power ultimately reſides) is, I am informed, about ſixteen hundred. They are di⯑vided into twelve tribes: and from theſe are elected eighty-five members, who form the ſovereign council, conſiſting of a great and little council. To theſe two councils combined, the adminiſtra⯑tion of affairs is committed: the ſenate, or little council of twenty-five, being entruſted with the executive power; and the great council, compriſing the ſe⯑nate, finally deciding all appeals, and regulating the more important concerns of government.

The revenues of the ſtate ariſe, partly from the tythes, and other articles of the like nature; but principally from the duties laid upon the merchandiſe, which [9] paſſes from Germany: and I am inform⯑ed, that theſe cuſtoms are nearly ſuffi⯑cient to defray all the public expences. Theſe, indeed, are not very conſidera⯑ble, as will appear from the ſalary of the burgomaſter, or chief of the republic; which barely amounts to £.150 per ann. The reformation was introduced here in 1529: the clergy are paid by the ſtate, but their income is literally not ſufficient for their maintenance; the beſt living being only about £.100, and the worſt £.40 per ann. The pro⯑feſſors of literature alſo, who are taken from the clergy, are paid likewiſe by government; and a public ſchool is ſup⯑ported at the expence of the ſame. Sump⯑tuary laws are in force here, as well as in moſt parts of Swiſſerland; and no dancing is allowed, except upon particular oc⯑caſions: ſilk, lace, and ſeveral other ar⯑ticles of luxury, are prohibited; even the ladies head-dreſſes are regulated. How would ſuch Gothic ordinances [10] be received in England? they would ſerve at leaſt to lower the price of feathers. But what is of ſtill greater importance, all games of hazard are ſtrictly prohibited; and in other games the party who loſes above ſix florins (about nine ſhillings of our money) incurs a conſiderable fine. An ex⯑cellent regulation! and I was inform⯑ed, that theſe laws are not, like ours of the ſame kind, mere cyphers, but are well obſerved. The principal article of exportation is wine; of which they make a large quantity, the country abound⯑ing in vineyards: and as the canton furniſhes but little corn, they procure it from Suabia in exchange for their wine. In the town there are ſome, but not very conſiderable, manufactures of linen, cotton, and ſilk: their commerce, however, is very flouriſhing.

It will perhaps give you ſome idea of the ſecurity of the Swiſs cantons, when I tell you, that Schaffhauſen, although a [11] frontier town, has no garriſon; and that the fortifications are but ſlight. The ci⯑tizens mount guard by turns; and the people of the canton being divided into regular companies of militia, which are exerciſed yearly, are always ready and prepared to take up arms in defence of their country. This canton has ſome troops in the ſervices of France, Sar⯑dinia, and Holland; the only foreign ſervices into which the ſubjects of the Proteſtant cantons enliſt.

Before I take my leave of this city, I muſt not omit mentioning the famous bridge over the Rhine; juſtly admired for the beauty and ſingularity of its ar⯑chitecture. The river is extremely ra⯑pid, and had already deſtroyed ſeveral bridges of ſtone, built upon arches of the ſtrongeſt conſtruction; when a car⯑penter of Appenzel undertook to throw a wooden one, of a ſingle arch, acroſs the river, which is near three hundred feet wide. The magiſtrates, however, [12] inſiſted, that it ſhould conſiſt of two arches, and that he ſhould make uſe for that purpoſe of the middle pier of the old bridge, which remained entire. Accord⯑ingly, the architect was obliged to obey; but he has contrived it in ſuch a manner, that the bridge is not at all ſupported by the middle pier: and it would certainly have been equally ſafe, and conſidera⯑bly more beautiful, had it conſiſted ſolely of one arch. But how ſhall I attempt to give you an idea of it? I, who am totally unſkilled in architecture, and who have not the leaſt knowledge of drawing. Take however the following deſcription, and excuſe its inaccuracy:

It is a wooden bridge, of which the ſides and top are covered, and the road over it is almoſt perfectly level: it is what the Germans call a haengewerk, or hanging bridge; the road not being carried, as uſual, over the top of the arch; but, if I may uſe the expreſſion, is let down into the middle of it, and [13] there ſuſpended. The middle pier is not abſolutely in a right line with the ſide ones, that reſt upon the ſhore; as it forms with them a very obtuſe angle pointing down the ſtream, being eight foot out of the linear direction: the diſtance of this middle pier from the ſhore that lies towards the town, is one hundred and ſeventy-one feet, and from the other ſide, one hundred and ninety-three; in all, three hundred and ſixty-four feet; making in appearance two arches of a ſurprizing width, and form⯑ing the moſt beautiful perſpective imagi⯑nable when viewed at ſome diſtance. A man of the ſlighteſt weight walking upon it, feels it tremble under him; and yet waggons heavily laden paſs over it without danger: and although in the latter inſtance, the bridge ſeems almoſt to crack with the preſſure, it does not appear to have ever ſuffered the leaſt damage. It has been compared, and very juſtly, to a tight rope, which [14] trembles when it is ſtruck, but ſtill pre⯑ferves its firm and equal tenſion. I went under this bridge, cloſe to the middle pier, in order to examine its mechaniſm; and though not the leaſt of a mechanic, I could not help being ſtruck with the elegant ſimplicity of the architecture: I was not capable of de⯑termining whether it reſts upon the middle pier, but moſt judges agree that it does not.

When one obſerves the greatneſs of the plan, and the boldneſs of the con⯑ſtruction, one is aſtoniſhed that the ar⯑chitect was a common carpenter, with⯑out the leaſt proficiency in learning, totally ignorant of mathematics, and not at all verſed in the theory of me⯑chanics. The name of this extraordi⯑nary man was Ulric Grubenman, an obſcure drunken fellow of Tuffen, a ſmall village in the canton of Appenzel. Poſſeſſed of uncommon natural abilities, and a ſurpriſing turn for the practical [15] part of mechanics, he raiſed himſelf to great eminence in his profeſſion; and may juſtly be conſidered as one of the moſt ingenious architects of the preſent century. This bridge was finiſhed in leſs than three years, and coſt ninety thouſand florins^*.

[16] This morning we ſet out on horſeback, in order to ſee the fall of the Rhine at Lauffen, about a league from this place. Our road lay over the hills which form the banks of the Rhine; from whence we had ſome fine views of the town and caſtle of Schaffhauſen: the environs are pictureſque and agreeable; the river beau⯑tifully winding through the vale. Upon our arrival at Lauffen, a ſmall village in the canton of Zuric, we diſmount⯑ed; and advancing to the edge of the [17] precipice which overhangs the Rhine, we looked down perpendicularly upon the cataract, and ſaw the river tumbling over the ſides of the rock with amazing violence and precipitation. From hence we deſcended till we were ſomewhat be⯑low the upper bed of the river, and ſtood cloſe to the fall; ſo that I could almoſt have touched it with my hand. A ſcaffolding is erected in the very ſpray of this tremendous cataract, and upon the moſt ſublime point of view:—the ſea of foam tumbling down—the con⯑tinual cloud of ſpray ſcattered around at a great diſtance, and to a conſiderable height—in ſhort, the magnificence of the whole ſcenery far ſurpaſſed my moſt ſanguine expectations, and exceeds all deſcription. Within about an hundred feet, as it appeared to be, of the ſcaffold⯑ing, there are two rocks in the middle of the fall, that prevent one from ſeeing its whole breadth from this point: the neareſt of theſe was perforated by the [18] continual action of the river; and the water forced itſelf through in an ob⯑lique direction, with inexpreſſible fury, and an hollow ſound. After having continued ſome time, contemplating in ſilent admiration the awful ſublimity of this wonderful landſcape, we deſcended; and below the fall we croſſed the river, which was exceedingly agitated.

Hitherto I had only viewed the cata⯑ract ſideways; but here it opened by degrees, and diſplayed another picture, which I enjoyed at my leiſure, as I ſat myſelf down upon the oppoſite bank. The moſt ſtriking objects were as fol⯑low: on the ſide we came from, a caſtle, erected upon the very edge of the pre⯑cipice, and overhanging the river; near it, a church and ſome cottages; on the ſide where I was ſitting, a clump of cottages cloſe to the fall; in the back ground, riſing hills, planted with vines, or tufted with hanging woods; a beau⯑tiful little hamlet upon the ſummit, [19] ſkirted with trees; the great body of water, that ſeemed as it were to ruſh out from the bottom of theſe hills; the two rocks above mentioned boldly ad⯑vancing their heads in the midſt of the fall, and in the very point of its ſteepeſt deſcent, their tops covered with ſhrubs, and dividing the cataract into three principal branches. The colour of the Rhine is extremely beautiful, being of a clear ſea-green; and I could not but remark the fine effect of the tints of green, when blended with the white foam in its deſcent. There is a pleaſing view from an iron foundery cloſe to the river, which is dammed up, in order to prevent its carrying away the works and neighbouring cottages: by means of this dam a ſmall portion of the river, in its fall, enters a trough, turns a mill, and forms a beautiful little ſilver current, gliding down the bare rock, and de⯑tached from the main cataract. Below the fall the river widens conſiderably [20] into a more ample baſon; at the fall, the breadth, as well as I could judge by my eye, ſeemed to be about two hundred and fifty feet. As to its perpendicular heighth, travellers differ: thoſe who are given to exaggeration reckon it an hun⯑dred feet high; but I ſhould imagine about fifty feet will be nearer the truth. I ſtood for ſome time upon the brink of the cataract; beheld in admiration, and liſtened in ſilence; then croſſed the river, re-mounted my horſe, and re⯑turned to Schaffhauſen.

Some writers have aſſerted that the river precipitates itſelf in one ſheet of water; and, as I before obſerved, from a perpendicular heighth of an hundred feet. In former ages this account was probably agreeable to fact; as it is imagined, that the ſpace between the two banks was once a level rock, and conſiderably higher; that the river has inſenſibly worn away, and undermined thoſe parts, on which it broke along [21] with the utmoſt violence: for, within the memory of ſeveral of the inhabitants of this town, a large rock has given way, that has greatly altered the view. Indeed I am convinced that the per⯑pendicular heighth of the fall becomes leſs and leſs every year, by the con⯑tinual friction of ſo large and rapid a body of water; and have no doubt but that the two rocks, which now riſe in the midſt of the river, will in time be undermined and carried away. The river, for ſome way before the fall, even near the bridge, daſhes upon a rocky bottom, and renders the navigation im⯑poſſible for any kind of veſſel. A few weeks ago a countryman of ours tried an experiment with a ſmall boat, which he contrived to have gently puſhed to the edge of the cataract: it ſhot down entire to the bottom of the fall, was out of ſight for a few moments, and then roſe up again daſhed into a thou⯑ſand ſplinters.

LETTER III.

YESTERDAY morning we quitted Schaffhauſen, and croſſed the Rhine at Dieſſenhoffen, a ſmall town in Thurgovy; a country dependent upon the eight antient cantons: from thence to Stein the road lay by the ſide of that river. Stein is an independent town under the protection of Zuric, but governed by its own laws and ma⯑giſtrates. At this place we took a boat to carry us to Conſtance. A little above the town of Stein the river widens conſiderably, and forms the in⯑ferior lake of Conſtance, or the Zeller See; which is divided into two branches: from Stein to Conſtance is about ſix⯑teen miles, and from the latter to Zell, its greateſt breadth, about ten.

A fine breeze ſoon carried us to the iſland of Reichenau, which is under [23] the ſovereignty of the thirteen cantons: it is about three miles long, and one broad; contains about ſixteen hundred inhabitants, all Catholics; three pa⯑riſhes; one village; and a rich abbey of Benedictines, of which the biſhop of Conſtance is abbot. The ſuperior was exceedingly civil, and ſhewed us all the relics and curioſities of the convent: among the latter, was a rotten tooth of Charles Le Gros. That monarch, who was emperor and king of France, and who poſſeſſed dominions as exten⯑ſive as thoſe of Charlemain, lived to want the common neceſſaries of life, and to depend for his ſubſiſtence upon the charity of an archbiſhop of Mentz. He was publicly depoſed in 887, at a meeting of the principal French, Ger⯑man, and Italian barons, whom he himſelf had ſummoned: after hav⯑ing languiſhed a year, in extreme want and miſery, he died, and was buried in this convent. The next remarkable [24] curioſity, was an emerald, as it is called, of an extraordinary ſize, which, according to the annals of the convent, was a preſent from Charlemain. Take its dimenſions, and then judge whether it can be an emerald: it has four un⯑equal ſides; the longeſt of which is near two feet, and the broadeſt about nine inches; it is one inch thick, and weighs about twenty-nine pounds. The ſuperior valued it at fifty thouſand florins; but if it be, as I conjecture, nothing more than a tranſparent green fluor-ſpathus, its value will be reduced to a few florins. Upon our return to the inn, where we dined, we found a preſent from the ſuperior, which we valued more than all the relics and cu⯑rioſities of his convent; two bottles of excellent wine, the growth of the iſland, which indeed is almoſt one continued vineyard.

In the evening we arrived at Con⯑ſtance: its ſituation upon the Rhine, [25] between the two lakes, is moſt delight⯑ful. I was much ſtruck with the ſoli⯑tary appearance of a town once ſo flouriſhing in commerce, and formerly ſo celebrated in the annals of hiſtory. There was a dead ſtillneſs throughout; graſs growing in the principal ſtreets; in a word, it wears the melancholy aſpect of being almoſt totally deſerted: and upon enquiry, I found there were ſcarcely three thouſand inhabitatns. This city has met with a ſad reverſe of fortune: it was formerly in alliance with Straſbourg, Zuric, Baſil, &c.; and, ſupported by the aſſiſtance of Zuric and Berne, had driven out the biſhop, and embraced the reformation. But the Proteſtant cantons being worſted in 1351; and the league of Smalcade, of which Conſtance was a member, being defeated by Charles V. the town was obliged to ſubmit to the emperor, and to re-admit the Catholic religion. From this period it loſt its independence; [26] and being neglected by the houſe of Auſtria, it fell by degrees into its pre⯑ſent almoſt annihilated ſtate; and ex⯑hibits to ſome of the neighbouring Swiſs cantons, an inſtructive contraſt, which cannot but the more ſenſibly endear to them their own invaluable happineſs, in the commerce and liberties they enjoy.

We paid a viſit to the chamber where the council of Conſtance was held in 1415, and had the honour of ſitting in the two chairs, in which ſat pope John XXIII^*. and the emperor Sigiſmond; if any honour can be derived from a turbulent eccleſiaſtic, and a perjured ſovereign. It was by a ſentence of this council, that the celebrated reformer John Huſs (having embraced the doc⯑trines of our Wickliffe, and truſting to the ſafeguard of the emperor, who vio⯑lated his word) was burnt as an heretic. They ſhew the houſe in which he was ſeized, and upon which his head, carved [27] in ſtone, but now almoſt defaced, is fixed; with an inſcription under it in German. Jerome of Prague, his diſ⯑ciple, had the weakneſs to recant be⯑fore the ſame council; but this weak⯑neſs was amply compenſated by the greatneſs of ſoul with which he again retracted this recantation, and by the calm and intrepid magnanimity which he ſhewed in his laſt moments at the ſtake. From the top of the cathedral we had a ſuperb view of the town, which is now ſcarce a third of its an⯑tient extent; of the two lakes; with the rugged Alps of Tyrol and Ap⯑penzel, their tops covered with per⯑petual ſnow.

I am juſt returned from a pleaſant expedition to the ſmall iſland of Mei⯑nau, in a bay of the ſuperior lake: this iſland, about a mile in circum⯑ference, belongs to the knights of the Teutonic order. The bailiff ſhewed us the houſe of the commander, which [28] is prettily ſituated, and has a fine proſ⯑pect of the lake, but contains nothing remarkable. The garden might have been well laid out by a judicious hand at a very ſmall expence: but the man who planned it, took it into his head to hide the view of the lake; which, af⯑ter much coſt, he has at length unhap⯑pily effected by means of high and cut hedges! the honeſt gardener did not forget to expatiate on the merit of this curious contrivance. The cellars of this caſtle are well ſtocked with wine; an article from whence the chief revenue of the commandery ariſes. Our good friend the bailiff was very free in offer⯑ing it to us; and we, not to appear inſenſible of his civility, were conſtrained to taſte of ſeveral different ſorts, which he preſented, one after the other, al⯑ways praiſing the laſt as the oldeſt and the moſt exquiſite. The wine was in⯑deed excellent, the glaſſes large, and a moſt formidable row of enormous caſks [29] ſtill remained untaſted; ſo that, after having duly extolled ſeveral ſpecimens, we found it expedient to decline the farther ſolicitations of our generous hoſt: for, had we gone through the whole ceremony, we ſhould moſt pro⯑bably have taken up our abode in the caſtle for this night.

July 25.

We ſet ſail about two hours ago from Conſtance. This ſuperior lake, or, as it is ſometimes called, the Boden See, is about fifteen leagues in length and ſix in its greateſt breadth: it is one of the great boundaries that ſe⯑parate Swiſſerland from Germany. The borders on each ſide conſiſt of gen⯑tly riſing hills; on the left hand Suabia, and on the right Thurgovy, with a va⯑riety of towns, villages, and monaſte⯑ries, ſcattered about: the form of the lake inclines to an oval, and the water is of a greeniſh hue. I am now writ⯑ing aboard the veſſel, and have been for ſome time in vain attempting to [30] diſtinguiſh (what ſome travellers have affirmed to be diſcernable) the waters of the Rhine from thoſe of the lake: though indeed I was before almoſt con⯑vinced of the impoſſibility. For, the river in its courſe from the ſuperior lake, being exactly of the ſame beauti⯑ful greeniſh colour as the inferior lake into which it flows; it is evident that the one can never be diſtinguiſhed from the other. Probably, upon its firſt en⯑trance into the ſuperior lake it is trou⯑bled, and conſequently, for ſome way, its current may eaſily be traced: but it purifies by degrees, and becomes an indiſtinct part of the great body of water.

This lake is conſiderably deeper in ſummer than in winter; owing to the firſt meltings of the ſnow from the neighbouring mountains: it abounds in fiſh of all ſorts, and contains two ſpecies, which are peculiar to itſelf, and are taken only three months in the year. [31] Yeſterday evening in our expedition to Meinau, there was ſcarce a breeze ſtir⯑ring, and the lake was as ſmooth as chryſtal: a briſk gale has now raiſed a fine curl upon the ſurface; and the ſur⯑rounding landſcape forms an aſſemblage of the moſt beautiful objects imagina⯑ble. In ſhort, the ſeveral views which preſent themſelves are ſo truly enchant⯑ing, that I regret every moment that my eyes are called off from the delightful ſcene around me. You will not wonder therefore, if I am tempted to bid you adieu ſomewhat abruptly.

LETTER IV.

I WRITE to you from the midſt of the Alps, under the ſhade of a grove of beeches, while a clear ſtream [32] of water, flowing at my feet, forms a natural caſcade down the rock. I have juſt made a hearty meal upon ſome bread and cheeſe; which I found to be a moſt delicious repaſt, after having well earned it, by walking near ſix miles over the mountains of Appenzel.

We this day quitted St. Gallen, where being aſked a moſt extravagant price for the hire of ſix horſes, by thoſe who thought we muſt neceſſarily take them upon their own terms, we deter⯑mined not to ſubmit to the impoſition; but to walk to Appenzel, and ſend our baggage by the horſe-road: but (not to aſcribe the whole merit of this heroic reſolution altogether to oecono⯑my) I muſt tell you at the ſame time, that we were informed beforehand, that the foot-way was by much the moſt agreeable. Nor do I in the leaſt re⯑pend of having made the experiment: for, the beauty and ſingularity of the road through which we paſſed has more [33] than compenſated for any fatigue of the journey. The country is ſingu⯑larly wild and romantic; conſiſting of a continued ſeries of vallies, with ranges of mountains, whoſe tops are crowned with the moſt luxuriant paſ⯑tures I ever beheld. I could not have conceived it poſſible, without having been an eye-witneſs, that any diſtrict within the ſame compaſs could have ex⯑hibited ſo numerous a population; the hills and vales being ſtrewed thick with hamlets, ſcattered at a ſmall diſtance from each other; and they are exactly placed too in the very ſpots which a man of taſte would have fixed upon. The pictureſque mountains, the foreſts, the currents which we paſſed, over bridges reſembling thoſe I have ſeen in ſome of the beſt landſcapes, added to the beauty of the ſcenes, and diverſified with the moſt pleaſing objects every ſtep we took. After having repoſed for a ſhort time in this delightful ſpot, I [34] cannot employ myſelf more to my ſatiſ⯑faction than by giving you a continu⯑ation of my journal.

I took my leave of you, in my laſt, upon the lake of Conſtance: we landed at Roſhach, a ſmall town in the dominions of the abbot of St. Gallen, delightfully ſituated in the midſt of a bay at the edge of the lake, and at the bottom of a riſing hill, richly covered with wood and paſturages. From Roſhach we went to St. Gallen, whoſe whole ter⯑ritory does not exceed a league and an half in circumference: the town contains ſeven thouſand inhabitants; its environs two. Every thing here was alive; all wore the appearance of induſtry and activity; exhibiting a ſtrik⯑ing oppoſition to Conſtance, which we had juſt quitted.

The abbot and town of St. Gallen are both allies of the Swiſs cantons, and each have the peculiar privilege of ſend⯑ing deputies to the general diet: I call [35] it peculiar, becauſe none of the other allies, (except Bienne and Mulhauſen) enjoy the ſame. The abbot of St. Gal⯑len is titular prince of the Empire, and is choſen by ſeventy-two Dominican monks, belonging to the abbey, out of their number. He formerly poſſeſ⯑ſed the ſovereignty of the town; but the inhabitants ſhook off his authority, and became independent: and although, ſince that period, various diſputes have ariſen between the two rival parties; they have been at different times com⯑promiſed by the interpoſition of the Swiſs cantons. The town is entirely Proteſtant, and its government ariſto⯑democratical: the ſubjects of the ab⯑bot (whoſe territory is very extenſive, and whoſe power abſolute) are moſtly Catholics. It is remarkable, that the abby in which the prince reſides, is ſitu⯑ated cloſe to the town, and in the midſt of its territory; as that of the latter is alſo entirely ſurrounded by the poſſeſ⯑ſions of the former.

[36] The town owes its flouriſhing ſtate to the uncommon induſtry of the inha⯑bitants, and to a very extenſive com⯑merce, ariſing chiefly from its manufac⯑tures of linen, muſlin, and embroidery. In a place ſo entirely commercial, I was aſtoniſhed to find the arts and ſciences cultivated, and literature in the higheſt eſteem. In the library there are thir⯑teen volumes in folio, containing ma⯑nuſcript letters to and from ſeveral of the firſt German and Swiſs reformers. Luther ends a letter to Melancthon as follows:

Theſe letters would probably throw a new light on the hiſtory of the refor⯑mation.

The library belonging to the ab⯑bey is very numerous and well ar⯑ranged; and, among a number of monkiſh manuſcripts, contains ſeveral claſſic ones, which engaged my chief [37] attention. In this library, Petronius Arbiter, Silvius Italicus, and Valerius Flaccus were found in 1413, and copies diſperſed: it was formerly very rich in curious manuſcripts; but ſeveral were borrowed during the council of Conſtance, by the cardinals and biſhops, who never returned them.

The tranſition from the abbot of St. Gallen to the canton of Appenzel will not appear abrupt, as the latter once belonged to the former: the inhabitants, however, being loaded with exorbitant and oppreſſive taxes, revolted in 1400, and maintained their independence with the deſperate courage of a ſpirited people, who fight for their liberties. In 1452 they entered into a perpetual alliance with ſome of the neighbouring Swiſs republics; and in 1513 were admitted into the Helvetic confederacy: they hold the laſt rank among the thirteen can⯑tons.

Before the reformation the whole can⯑ton was under one government; but [38] ſince that period, part of the inhabi⯑tants having embraced the Proteſtant religion, and the other part continuing Catholics, violent diſputes were kindled between them; which, after much con⯑teſt, were at length compromiſed. By an agreement in 1597, the canton was divided into two portions; Rhodes Ex⯑terior, and Rhodes Interior: it was ſtipulated, that the former ſhould be appropriated to the reſidence of the Pro⯑teſtants, and the latter to that of the Catholics. Accordingly the two parties finally ſeparated, and formed two repub⯑lics; their government, police, finances, &c. being totally independent of each other. Each diſtrict ſends a deputy to the general diet: the whole canton, however, has but one vote, and loſes its ſuffrage if the two parties are not unanimous. In both diviſions the ſove⯑reign power is veſted in the people at large; every male, who is paſt ſixteen, having a vote in their general aſſembly, held yearly for the creation of their [39] magiſtrates and the purpoſes of legiſla⯑tion: and each voter is obliged to appear armed on that particular occaſion. The Landamman is the firſt magiſtrate: in each diſtrict there are two, who admi⯑niſter the office alternately, and are confirmed yearly. They have each a permanent council, in which all juriſ⯑diction in civil and criminal cauſes is lodged, together with the care of the police, the management of the finances, and the general adminiſtration of affairs. The Landamman regent preſides; and the other, during the year in which he is out of office, is banneret or chief of the militia.

The Rhodes Exterior is much larger, and more peopled in proportion, than the Interior; and the Proteſtants are in ge⯑neral more commercial and induſtrious than the Catholics.—The former are ſuppoſed to amount to thirty-ſeven thouſand; the latter to twelve thouſand: a conſiderable number, in a ſmall canton [40] of about ſixty ſquare leagues, entirely mountainous, and of which a great part conſiſts of barren and inacceſſible rocks. But the induſtry of the inhabitants amply compenſates for any diſadvantages of ſoil: for the people are frugal and laborious, their property is aſſured, and they are exempted from all burdenſome and arbitrary taxes. Theſe circum⯑ſtances, joined to their right of partak⯑ing of the legiſlation, and of electing their magiſtrates, inſpire them with ſuch animated ſentiments of their own im⯑portance and independence, as excite the moſt active and vigorous induſtry: and thoſe neceſſaries to which this induſtry is not ſufficient, are abundantly ſupplied by their neighbours, in exchange for their manufactures and other articles of their domeſtic commerce. The chief part of the habitable country conſiſts in rich paſtures; and of courſe their principal exports are cattle and hides, together with cheeſe and butter: their manufac⯑tures [41] are linen and thread; of both which they make a conſiderable quan⯑tity, and for the ſupport of which the canton furniſhes flax in great abun⯑dance.

There are no incloſed towns in this canton; it contains only two or three open burghs, as they are called, (of which Appenzel is the largeſt in the Catholic, and Heriſau in the Pro⯑teſtant, diſtrict) together with a few ſmall villages: but indeed the whole country, except amongſt the barren rocks, is almoſt a continued village, co⯑vered thick as it is with excellent cot⯑tages, which have the moſt beautiful effect imaginable. Each cottage has its little territory, conſiſting generally of a field or two of fine paſture ground, and frequently ſkirted with trees: of the latter there is great plenty, the moun⯑tains being for the moſt part beautifully wooded; and the canton is ſupplied with water in ſuch exuberance, that we [42] could hardly walk two hundred paces without ſeeing a ſpring iſſuing from the ground, or perhaps a torrent ruſhing down the ſides of a rock.

In our way to Appenzel, we entered ſeveral of their houſes, which are all built of wood; neatneſs and convenience be⯑ing the principal object of the owners: and ſuch a remarkable cleanlineſs pre⯑vailed throughout, as afforded me a moſt ſtriking proof of the general at⯑tention this people pay to that eſſential article. A continued chain of theſe cultivated mountains, richly cloathed with wood, and ſtudded all over with hamlets, (which one would almoſt ima⯑gine had been placed by the genius of taſte in the very ſpots where they would have the moſt ſtriking effect) exhibits a landſcape inexpreſſibly pleaſing: it ſeem⯑ed as if they belonged to ſo many in⯑dependent clans; independent, but ſo⯑cial, and uniting for the great purpoſes of legiſlation, and for the general pre⯑ſervation [43] of their liberties. The Pro⯑teſtant diviſion contains about ten thouſand men capable of bearing arms; and the Catholic about three thou⯑ſand.

Among the chief part of the inhabi⯑tants, the original ſimplicity of the paſ⯑toral life is ſtill preſerved; and I ſaw ſeveral venerable figures with long beards, that reſembled the old patri⯑archs. I am much mortified that I cannot ſpeak German, which is their language; as that natural frankneſs, and particular tone of equality, which ariſe from a conſciouſneſs of their own independence, could not fail of afford⯑ing me very intereſting converſation. As to the ſtate of literature, my ſtay here has been ſo ſhort, that I cannot form any accurate idea of it; I have only been informed in general, that learning has made its way over theſe mountains; and that there are ſeveral men of letters in this canton, who are [44] an honour to themſelves, and an orna⯑ment to their country.

In our way to this place we paſſed through Tuffen, the birth-place of Ulric Grubenman, whom I mentioned in a former letter^*: he has been dead ſome years; but his abilities and his ſkill in practical architecture are, if I may uſe the expreſſion, hereditary in his family. We enquired for one of the ſame name, who was either his brother or his nephew, whom we found at the ale⯑houſe; his uſual place of reſort when he has no particular employment. He is a heavy, coarſe-looking man, dreſſed like a common peaſant; has a quick and penetrating eye, and a ſurpriſing readineſs of converſation. We told him that we were Engliſhmen, who were mak⯑ing the tour of Swiſſerland; and, as we wiſhed to view every thing remarkable in the country, we could not paſs through Tuffen without deſiring to ſee a man who was ſo much celebrated for [45] his ſkill in architecture. He ſtruck his breaſt, and replied in German, ‘"Here you ſee but a boor."’ Upon our talking with him about the bridge of Schaffhauſen, in the building of which he was employed, he aſſured us, that it does not reſt upon the middle pier, but is in effect a ſingle arch. Near Appen⯑zel we obſerved an old man with vene⯑rable white hair hanging down over his ſhoulders, who looked like one of our ſubſtantial farmers: he enquired with a tone of authority, but with perfect civility, who we were; and upon our aſking the ſame queſtion reſpecting him⯑ſelf, of our guide, we were informed, that he was the Landamman, or chief of the republic. Happy people, the nature of whoſe country, and the conſti⯑tution of whoſe government both equal⯑ly oppoſe the ſtrongeſt barriers againſt the baneful introduction of luxury!

LETTER V.

WE are this moment arrived at this place; where we propoſe paſſing the night: while ſupper is pre⯑paring, I will continue my journal. We could procure but three horſes at Ap⯑penzel, and as one of them was appro⯑priated to the baggage, I preferred walk⯑ing: accordingly I ſet out by myſelf ſome time before the cavalcade. After hav⯑ing walked a league in the canton, through the ſame kind of country men⯑tioned in my laſt (a continued range of mountains, enriched with beautiful mea⯑dows, and dotted thick with cottages) I arrived at its boundary; when the ſcene ſuddenly changed into a wild foreſt, con⯑ſiſting chiefly of pines, without the leaſt appearance of any habitation. The road is very ſingular. It is in moſt parts not more than three feet broad; and is [47] either paved with large uneven pieces of rock, or formed of thick ſtakes laid cloſely together: but as the ground is in many parts ſofter than in others, theſe ſtakes of courſe in ſome places ſink deeper, and by this means form an almoſt invariable ſucceſſion of uneven ſteps. The mountain by which we de⯑ſcended into the plain, is very ſteep; which, added to the unevenneſs of the ſtakes, makes the aſcent and deſcent ex⯑ceedingly difficult for horſes. Thoſe who are pleaſed with an uniform view, may continue in the plain; while others, who delight in the grand and the ſub⯑lime, and are ſtruck with the wanton⯑neſs of wild, uncultivated nature, will prefer this road to the ſmootheſt turn⯑pike in Great Britain.

I walked ſlowly on, without envy⯑ing my companions on horſeback: for I could ſit down upon an inviting ſport, climb to the edge of a precipice, or trace a torrent by its ſound. I deſcended [48] at length into the Rheinthal, or valley of the Rhine; the mountains of Tyrol, which yielded neither in heighth or in craggineſs to thoſe of Appenzel, riſing before me. And here I found a re⯑markable difference: for although the aſcending and deſcending was a work of ſome labour; yet the variety of the ſcenes had given me ſpirits, and I was not ſenſible of the leaſt fatigue. But in the plain, notwithſtanding the ſcenery was ſtill beautiful and pictureſque, I ſaw at once the whole way ſtretching before me, and had no room for freſh expecta⯑tions: I was not therefore ſorry when I arrived at Oberried, after a walk of about twelve miles, my coat ſlung upon my ſhoulder like a peripatetic by pro⯑feſſion. Here we were lucky enough to procure a narrow open cart; in which, the roads being rough and ſtony, you will readily believe we were not much at our eaſe. The evening however being fine, and the moon exceedingly bright, [49] our journey was not altogether unplea⯑ſant; as it led us through a delightful country abounding in vines, in fruit⯑trees, in flax, and excellent paſturages.

This Rheinthal is a bailliage belong⯑ing to Appenzel and the eight antient cantons, which alternately appoint a bailiff. The people are induſtrious, and manufacture a conſiderable quantity of linen, cotton, muſlins plain and em⯑broidered: they conſiſt of both reli⯑gions, but the Proteſtants are the moſt numerous.

Wallenſtadt, July 28.

We quitted Salets this morning, in the ſame narrow open cart in which we arrived: and it would have afforded your curioſity matter of ſome ſpeculation, to obſerve how we contrived to arrange our⯑ſelves, our ſervants, a large Newfoundland dog, and the baggage, in ſo narrow a compaſs: indeed we were ſo wedged in together, that it was almoſt impoſſible [50] to ſtir, after we had once fixed our⯑ſelves in our ſeveral places. The day was ſultry, and the ſun powerful, the road bad, and the cart went barely at the rate of three miles an hour; but the country ſtill continued ſo pictureſque and mountainous, and our attention was ſo entirely taken up with the per⯑petual variety of objects it preſented to our view, as to make us forget the in⯑conveniences of our equipage, and the exceſſive heat of the weather. From Trivabach, a ſmall village upon the Rhine, we walked to Sargans, the ca⯑pital of a bailliage of the ſame name, belonging to the eight antient cantons.

Let me remark by the way, that in Swiſſerland there are two ſorts of bail⯑liages: the one conſiſting of certain diſ⯑tricts, into which all the ariſtocratical cantons are divided; and over theſe a particular officer, called a bailiff, is ap⯑pointed by government, to which he is accountable for his adminiſtration: the [51] other ſort are the territories that do not make part of the diſtricts of the can⯑tons, but are ſubject to two or more of them, who by turns appoint a bailiff. This officer, when not reſtrained by the peculiar privilege of certain diſtricts, has the care of the police, juriſdiction in civil and criminal cauſes with ſome limitations; and has a ſtated revenue ariſing in different places from different duties and taxes. In caſe of exaction or mal-adminiſtration, an appeal al⯑ways lies from the bailiff to the cantons, to which the bailliage belongs: and the place, the time, and the members who receive the appeal, are all regulated with the utmoſt exactneſs. With reſpect to this of Sargans, and the others belong⯑ing to the eight antient cantons con⯑jointly; at the concluſion of the ge⯑neral diet held annually at Frauenfield in Thurgovy, the deputies of theſe can⯑tons reſolve themſelves into a Syndicate, examine the accounts of the public re⯑venues [52] as delivered in by the bailiffs of the reſpective diſtricts, and receive and judge all appeals; in ſome caſes, finally; but in the more important ones an ap⯑peal lies from this aſſembly to the ſu⯑perior tribunal of each canton. The theory of this inſtitution, has a plauſible appearance of impartiality: but how far the practice accords with the theory, I cannot pretend to determine. Whether a bailiff, who is guilty of extortion, is eaſily brought to juſtice, or more eaſily ſcreened? how far the members of the Syndicate are liable to influence, or open to corruption? how far the ex⯑pence of appeals renders them in many caſes impracticable to the poorer in⯑habitants? are queſtions which cannot be anſwered but by a perſon far more informed concerning theſe courts of juſ⯑tice than I have had an opportunity to be.

We arrived late at the town of Wal⯑lenſtadt: it is incorporated into the [53] bailliage of Sargans, but enjoys ſeveral diſtinct privileges. This little town de⯑rives its exiſtence from being the paſſage of the merchandiſe tranſported from Germany through the Griſons to Italy. This communication occaſions the fre⯑quent reſort hither of Italian mer⯑chants; and that language is ſpoken by many of the inhabitants: a circum⯑ſtance of great ſatisfaction to me; as from my ignorance of the German I have been frequently much ſtreightened in obtaining all the information I want. Our landlord ſpeaks Italian, and has been very accurate in his anſwers to my queſtions relating to the number of in⯑habitants, the government of the town, its dependence upon the bailiff, its pri⯑vileges, &c. Nor is this to be wondered at: for the innkeepers in Swiſſerland are moſtly burgeſſes, and are frequently members of the ſovereign council; be⯑ſides that, from the very nature of their governments, the Swiſs in general are [54] well informed of every thing relating to their particular conſtitutions. I have alſo held a long converſation in the ſame language with a burgeſs of Glaris, who has furniſhed me with ſome information I can depend upon, in rela⯑tion to that canton: which we purpoſe viſiting to-morrow. I endeavour to aſ⯑certain the truth of theſe informations, by procuring as many as I can from diffe⯑rent perſons of all ranks; by laying them together; and then comparing them with the written accounts, if there be any.

Our ſtay is ſo ſhort in moſt of the places we paſs through, that I cannot expect to gain an accurate knowledge of every circumſtance I wiſh to be ac⯑quainted with: but, though I may omit many things that are worthy of your curioſity, yet I ſhall atteſt nothing, of the truth of which I am not perfectly convinced. It is the fault of many tra⯑vellers, to write from what they have read, and not from what they have ſeen, [55] and to exaggerate the relations of others: but I promiſe you that I will deſcribe nothing, of which I have not been an eye-witneſs. The remarks I ſhall tranſ⯑mit to you, will be the genuine reſult of my own feelings; and I had even rather be frequently wrong in my ſen⯑timents and reflections, than ſervilely follow the obſervations of others. On this you may therefore depend; that though the concluſions may perhaps be falſe, the facts will certainly be true: and I flatter myſelf you will readily par⯑don any error in judgment, when my in⯑tention is neither to exaggerate or to de⯑ceive.

Weſen, July 29.

The lake of Wallenſtadt is about ſix⯑teen miles in length, and two in breadth: it is entirely bounded by exceeding high mountains, except to the eaſt and weſt. From this ſituation, a breeze ge⯑nerally blows from thoſe two quarters, beginning at the break of day, and con⯑tinuing [56] for ſome hours; then changes from weſt to eaſt till ſun-ſet: this breeze is very convenient for the tranſportation of the merchandiſe. Sometimes how⯑ever a violent north-wind ruſhes down from the mountains, and renders the navigation dangerous. We were aſ⯑ſured by the inhabitants, and by the watermen who rowed us from Wallen⯑ſtadt to this place, that the breeze above mentioned was generally conſtant: but we cannot atteſt it from our own experience; as we ſet out this morning about eight, and the wind was directly contrary the whole way, blowing from weſt to eaſt. The weather, 'tis true, was heavy, overcaſt, and rainy, which might cauſe perhaps this occaſional variation.

The lake is uncommonly wild and pictureſque, and affords a perpetual va⯑riety of beautiful and romantic ſcenes. On the ſide of Glaris, the mountains which border upon the lake, are chiefly cultivated; enriched with wood; or fine [57] meadows; and ſtudded with cottages, churches, and ſmall villages; the Alps of Glaris riſing behind; their tops co⯑vered with ſnow. On the other ſide, for the moſt part, the rocks are exceed⯑ingly groteſque, craggy, inacceſſible, and perpendicular: but here and there a few cultivated necks of land are formed at the very edge of the lake, and at the bottom of theſe very rocks; exhibiting a beautiful contraſt to the barrenneſs above and around them. Numberleſs water-falls, occaſioned by the meltings of the ſnows, fall down the ſides of theſe rocks from a very conſiderable heighth, and with an almoſt inconceiv⯑able variety; ſome of them ſeeming to glide gently in circular directions; others forming vaſt torrents, and ruſh⯑ing into the lake with noiſe and vio⯑lence: all of them changing their form and their poſition as we approached or receded from them. The lake is ex⯑ceedingly clear, deep, and cold, and, as we were informed, never freezes.

[58] There is nothing remarkable in this place; being a ſmall village ſituated almoſt upon the point where the river Linth iſſues from the lake of Wallen⯑ſtadt: that little river is joined by the Limmat, and falls into the lake of Zuric.

LETTER VI.

THE canton of Glaris was for⯑merly ſubject to the abbeſs of the convent of Seckinguen in Suabia: the people however enjoyed very conſider⯑able privileges, and a democratical form of government, under the adminiſtra⯑tion of a mayor, appointed by the ab⯑beſs, but choſen among the inhabitants. Towards the latter end of the thirteenth century, the emperor Rodolph I. ob⯑tained the excluſive adminiſtration of [59] juſtice; and not long afterwards his ſon Albert, having purchaſed the mayoralty, which had inſenſibly become hereditary, re-united in his perſon the whole civil and judicial authority. Accordingly that prince, and his immediate deſcendents the dukes of Auſtria, oppreſſed the people, and ruled over them with an abſolute ſway. In 1350, Schweitz, aſ⯑ſiſted by Zuric, Lucerne, Uri, and Underwalden, expelled the Auſtrians from the country of Glaris, re-eſta⯑bliſhed the democracy, and reſtored li⯑berty to the people. Glaris now en⯑tered into a perpetual alliance with its deliverers, and was received into the Helvetic confederacy with ſome reſtric⯑tions, which were not aboliſhed until 1450. At that time it was the ſixth canton, but is now the laſt in rank of the eight antient cantons, as they are called; being ſo diſtinguiſhed, becauſe, from the acceſſion of Zug and Berne in 1352, more than a century elapſed be⯑fore [60] a new member was admitted. Theſe antient cantons have alſo ſeveral privileges ſuperior to the five others; the latter having ſubmitted to ſome par⯑ticular reſtrictions, upon their being received into the Helvetic league.

The people of Glaris enjoyed their liberties unmoleſted till 1388, when the Auſtrians made an irruption into the canton, with a force ſufficient, as they arrogantly thought, totally to ſubdue it; pillaging the country, and maſ⯑ſacring the inhabitants. It was then that three hundred and fifty troops of Glaris, aſſiſted by thirty Switzers, re⯑ſiſted the whole ſtrength of the Auſtrian army: the former were poſted advan⯑tageouſly upon the mountains, and the latter, to the number of fifteen thou⯑ſand, at a village called Naefels. In this ſituation the Auſtrians began the attack; but were ſoon compelled to re⯑treat with great precipitation, by a ſhower of ſtones poured upon them [61] from the heighths: in this moment of confuſion, the inhabitants ruſhed down upon the enemy with ſuch redoubled fury, that they broke their ranks; and, having made an immenſe ſlaughter, forced the remainder to retire from the canton. Theſe ſurpriſing victories, gained by a handful of men againſt an enemy ſo much ſuperior in number (in⯑ſtances of which are by no means rare in the hiſtory of Swiſſerland) render the wonderful combats of Marathon and Plataea, when the Greeks repulſed the numerous hoſts of the whole Perſian em⯑pire, perfectly credible. The ſame love of independence, the ſame dread of ſla⯑very, and the ſame attachment to their country, animated the reſpective na⯑tions to the ſame deeds of heroiſm; and in both inſtances victory was fol⯑lowed by the ſame glorious conſequence: for the Swiſs, as well as the Greeks, owe the riſe and preſervation of their liberties to that magnanimous and de⯑termined [62] valour which prefers death to living under the ſervile domination of an arbitrary deſpot. The people ſtill cele⯑brate the anniverſary of this victory, which inſured their independence for ever: and I ſaw near the village of Naefels ſeveral ſtones, with no other inſcription than 1388: an inſcription which no more requires explanation, to an inhabitant of the canton, than the glorious aera of 1688, to an Eng⯑liſhman.

In the ſixteenth century, the refor⯑mation was introduced into this canton, but not excluſively: both religions are tolerated, and the two ſects live together in the greateſt harmony. This union is the more remarkable, when we con⯑ſider the fatal quarrels that have been kindled in Swiſſerland on account of religious tenets; and that in Appenzel the diviſion between the two ſects is diſtinctly marked by their inhabiting different diſtricts, and living under ſepa⯑rate [63] governments. In ſeveral parts of this canton, the Proteſtants and Catho⯑lics perform ſervice in the ſame church, one after the other; and all the offices of ſtate are amicably adminiſtered by the two parties. During the preſent and the preceding century, the Proteſ⯑tants have encreaſed conſiderably in number, and their induſtry, in every branch of commerce, is greatly ſuperior: an evident proof how much the bigotry and ſuperſtition of the church of Rome fetters the genius, and depreſſes the powers of exertion.

The government is entirely democra⯑tical: every perſon of the age of ſixteen has a vote in the Landſgemeind, or ge⯑neral aſſembly, which is annually held in an open plain. This aſſembly rati⯑fies new laws, lays contributions, enters into alliances, declares war, and makes peace. The Landamman is the chief of the republic, and is choſen alternately from the two ſects; with this difference, [64] that the Proteſtant remains three years in office, the Catholic only two. The man⯑ner of election is as follows: five can⯑didates are choſen by the people, and theſe draw lots for the charge. The other great officers of ſtate, and the bailiffs, are taken alſo by lot from a certain number of candidates propoſed by the people. The executive power is veſted in the council of regency, com⯑poſed of forty-eight Proteſtants, and fifteen Catholics: each ſect has its par⯑ticular court of juſtice; and, when there is any proceſs between two perſons of different religions, the caſting voice among the five or nine judges, who are to determine the cauſe, is always of the ſame religion as the defendant.

Cattle, cheeſe, and butter, conſtitute the principal commerce of the canton. The cattle are fed in ſummer upon the Alps: and it is computed that ten thouſand head of large cattle, and four thouſand ſheep, are paſtured during that [65] ſeaſon upon the mountains belonging to this canton. There are alſo ſome manufactures of linen; and the inha⯑bitants make a conſiderable quantity of thread.

July 30.

I am juſt returned to Glaris, after having made an excurſion towards the extremity of the canton: it is entirely encloſed by the alps, except towards the north; and there is no other entrance but through this open⯑ing, which lies between the lake of Wallenſtadt and the mountains ſe⯑parating the canton of Glaris from that of Schweitz. Foot-paſſengers in⯑deed may in ſummer traverſe theſe alps to the Griſons on one ſide, and to Uri⯑on the other: but theſe paths, which even in the midſt of ſummer are barely paſſable, are in winter abſolutely im⯑practicable. At the entrance above⯑mentioned, the canton reaches, from the banks of the Linth to the fartheſt [66] extremity of its alps, about thirty miles; forming a valley, which becomes nar⯑rower as you advance, and is ſcarcely more than a muſket-ſhot in breadth at the burgh of Glaris. It afterwards opens by degrees; and about a league from the laſt-mentioned burgh is divi⯑ded by the Freyberg mountains: at the point of this diviſion the two rivers, Limmat and Sernft, unite.

We continued through the largeſt of theſe vales; which, though very narrow, is exceedingly populous. You have been at Matlock in Derbyſhire, and I remember your admiration of its beau⯑tiful and romantic ſituation: the ſcenery of this vale is of the ſame caſt, but in⯑finitely more pictureſque, more wild, more varied, and more ſublime. The Limmat is much broader and more ra⯑pid than the Derwent; and the hillocks of the Peake (for I may ſo call them comparatively) are mere mole-hills to the alps of Glaris. Theſe ſtupendous [67] chains of rocks are abſolutely perpendi⯑cular, approach one another ſo near, and are ſo high, that the ſun may be ſaid to ſet, even in ſummer, at four in the afternoon. On each ſide are numbers of thoſe water-falls we had been ſo ſtruck with during our paſſage over the lake of Wallenſtadt; one in particular, near the village of Ruti, that foamed down the ſteep ſides of a mountain, from the midſt of a hanging grove of trees. I was ſo captivated with theſe enchanting ſcenes, that I could not help ſtopping every moment to admire them: as often as I did ſo, our guide, not conceiving it poſſible that theſe delays could be owing to any other cauſe than the lazineſs of his horſe, never failed to ſtrike the poor beaſt; and continually awakened me out of my rapturous contemplations. As I could not ſpeak to be underſtood in German, it was ſome time before I could make him comprehend by ſigns, [68] that I ſtopped by choice, and wiſhed to go my own pace. After having rode about ten miles, we quitted our horſes and walked. Near Leugelbach, a con⯑ſiderable rivulet is formed at once by two ſtreams, burſting from the ground at the foot of a mountain, which af⯑ter a few paces unite, and fall into the Limmat: beſides theſe two principal branches, there are ſeveral other ſmaller ones, together with numberleſs little fountains that guſh from the rock.—The clearneſs of the ſtreams; their rapidity and murmuring ſound; the trees that hang over the point from whence they iſſue; the rude rocks above; the rich meadows and the ſcattered hamlets around—all together form an aſſem⯑blage of the moſt lively and pleaſing objects that ever entered into a beau⯑tiful landſcape.

We croſſed the Limmat ſeveral times, which runs through the valley with all the violence of a torrent; and [69] came at length to an amphitheatre of mountains, where the vale ended: on our right-hand a fall more conſiderable than any we had yet ſeen, tumbling down perpendicularly a bare rock in a large body of water; the alps on each ſide crowned with inacceſſible foreſts, and covered with everlaſting ſnow; be⯑fore us a pyramidical mountain, bare and craggy; and the glaciers of Glaris cloſing the view. Here the vale, and the habitable part of the canton, ter⯑minate. We then quitted the plain, and aſcending through a wild foreſt of beech and pines, continued more than an hour mounting a very ſteep and rugged path, till we came to the Panten-Bruck, a bridge over the cata⯑ract that forms the Limmat, which is here called the Sand-bach: it roars from the glacier down the ſteep mountain in one unbroken fall; and, a little way be⯑fore its arrival under the bridge, works itſelf a ſubterraneous paſſage through [70] the rock, where it is loſt only to ap⯑pear again daſhing out with increaſed violence and precipitation. This bridge is a ſingle arch of ſtone, of about ſeventy feet in length, thrown over a precipice of above three hundred feet in depth. It ſerves as a communication with the upper alps, and is the paſſage for the cattle which are fed there during the ſummer months: on the other ſide ſome goats came jumping around us, and ſeemed to welcome us to their dreary habitations. Theſe mountains are co⯑vered with a vaſt variety of rare herbs, and beautiful ſweet-ſcented flowers, which made me regret that I had not purſued my botanical ſtudies. As I leaned upon the parapet of the bridge, and looked down into the chaſm be⯑neath, my head almoſt turned giddy with the heighth. The rock, down which the Sand-bach drives, is compoſed of ſlate, of which there is a great quantity in this canton: the principal mine is [71] in the valley of Sernft, where they make large ſlabs that ſerve for tables, and which form a conſiderable article for exportation. After we had continued ſome time admiring the ſublime hor⯑ror of the ſcenery, we deſcended into the vale, and made a hearty meal upon ſome excellent bread, honey, butter, and milk, which a neighbouring cottage ſupplied us with. As the canton al⯑moſt entirely conſiſts of rich meadows, the milk and butter are delicious; and the honey of theſe mountainous coun⯑tries is moſt exquiſite. Nothing de⯑lights me ſo much as the inſide of a Swiſs cottage: all thoſe I have hitherto viſited, convey the livelieſt image of clean⯑lineſs, eaſe, and ſimplicity; and cannot but ſtrongly impreſs upon the obſerver a moſt pleaſing conviction of the pea⯑ſant's happineſs.

If I had never ſeen theſe little de⯑mocratical ſtates, I could have formed no idea of the general equality and in⯑diſtinction [72] that prevails among the in⯑habitants. All the houſes, like thoſe of Appenzel, are built of wood; large, ſolid, and compact, with great pent⯑houſe roofs that hang very low, and extend beyond the area of the founda⯑tion. This peculiar ſtructure is of uſe to keep off the ſnow; and, from its ſingularity, accords ſurpriſingly with the beautiful wildneſs of the country. The houſes of the richer inhabitants in the principal burghs, are of the ſame ma⯑terials: the only difference conſiſts in their being larger.

If that ſort of government be con⯑feſſedly the beſt, which conſtitutes the greateſt good of the greateſt number in the community; theſe little ſtates, not⯑withſtanding the natural defects of a democratical conſtitution, may juſtly claim a large ſhare of our approbation. General liberty, general independence, and an exemption from arbitrary taxes, are bleſſings which amply compenſate [73] for a want of thoſe refinements that are introduced by opulence and luxury. However, it is only in theſe ſmall re⯑publics, and in ſuch a ſtate of ſociety, that this kind of general democracy can have place; where there are not any perſons ſo rich as to gain an undue aſcendency over the people by largeſſes; and where, if they err in their councils, it is an error of the judgment and not of the heart. When a general corruption of the latter prevails, the evil is incurable, becauſe the laws cannot reach it. In de⯑mocracies, the machine of government is conſiderably indeed clogged by that variety of wheels required to put it in⯑to motion; but at the ſame time, it is not neceſſary here that its motions ſhould be ſudden and expeditious, as there is no fear of an invaſion from without, and as the people have no con⯑queſts either to make or to defend; their principal policy conſiſting in maintaining their independence, and in preſerving the public tranquillity.

[74] The police is well regulated through⯑out Swiſſerland; and even in theſe de⯑mocratical ſtates, liberty does not dege⯑nerate into licentiouſneſs: we may ex⯑cept, perhaps, the day of their general aſſemblies, when it is impoſſible to pre⯑vent ſome degree of confuſion in a meeting, where there is ſcarcely any diſtinction of perſons, and where every peaſant conſiders himſelf as equal to the firſt magiſtrate.

Our hoſt is an open-hearted, honeſt Swiſs: he brings his pint of wine with him, ſits down to table with us, and chats without the leaſt ceremony. There is a certain forwardneſs of this kind which I cannot bear, when it ap⯑parently is the effect of impertinent curioſity, or fawning officiouſneſs; but the preſent inſtance of frank familiarity, ariſing, as it evidently does, from a mind conſcious of its natural equality, and unconſtrained by arbitrary diſtinc⯑tions, is highly pleaſing to me; as I [75] prefer the ſimple demeanour of unſo⯑phiſticated nature, to all the falſe re⯑finements of artificial manners.

LETTER VII.

WE could not paſs through this part of the country, without making a pilgrimage to Einſidlin, and paying our reſpects to this celebrated ſhrine: an object of much devotion among the Catholics. Einſidlin, or Notre Dame des Hermites, is a rich and magnificent abbey of Benedictines in the canton of Schweitz, which owes its celebrity to the miraculous image, as it is called, of the Virgin Mary. The ridiculous tales they relate of the origin and aggrandiſement of this ab⯑bey, are ſo many melancholy inſtances of the credulity of the darker ages: [76] that they are ſtill believed in the pre⯑ſent enlightened century, muſt be at⯑tributed to the force of habitual preju⯑dice; and at the ſame time proves, how difficult it is for the human mind to ſhake off thoſe ſuperſtitious errors, which it has early imbibed under the ſanctified name of religion.

In the ninth century a certain her⯑mit called Meinrad, was the firſt who retired to this place, where he built a chapel, and was aſſaſſinated by rob⯑bers. But ſhall I tell you, or (what is more to the purpoſe) will you be⯑lieve me if I tell you, that this mur⯑der was diſcovered by two crows, who followed the aſſaſſins to Zuric, where they were ſeized and executed? Soon after this the dead body of St. Mein⯑rad muſt of courſe work miracles; and all the world pilgrimiſes to his bones. The ſanctity of this place being thus eſtabliſhed, ſome one (for whether it were St. Benno or St. Eberhard, or [77] what other ſaint I cannot preciſely de⯑termine) built another chapel, which he dedicated to the Virgin, and laid the firſt foundation of the abbey; having bequeathed for that purpoſe all his fortune: and the pious fund was ſoon conſiderably augmented by ſubſequent donations. Shall I tell you alſo that in 948, Conrad biſhop of Conſtance, as he was going to conſecrate the cha⯑pel, heard a voice from heaven, aſſur⯑ing him, that God himſelf had conſe⯑crated it? Whatever was its origin, and whoever was its founder; crouds of pilgrims reſort hither from all quarters to adore the Virgin, and to preſent their offerings: and it is computed, that upon the moſt moderate calcula⯑tion, their number amounts yearly to 100,000. The circumjacent country was formerly one continued foreſt, which ſince the erection of the abbey has been gradually converted into rich paſtures and beautiful meadows: and [78] this is a miracle which the Virgin, in a certain ſenſe, may truly be ſaid to have performed.

Auguſt 1.

I have juſt been viſiting the abbey, the chapel of the Virgin, and her im⯑menſe treaſures. The church of the abbey is a large and magnificent build⯑ing, but exhibits a remarkable ſpecimen of falſe taſte, by being loaded with bad paint⯑ings, and ſuperfluous ornaments. In the iſle not far from the entrance is a ſmall and elegant marble chapel of the Corin⯑thian order: this is the celebrated ſhrine of the Virgin, to which the pilgrims reſort. On the outſide an angel ſup⯑ports the following inſcription:

Over the door is a plate of ſilver with five holes, into which I ſaw ſeveral per⯑ſons thruſting their fingers, and praying at the ſame time with great fervour: [79] upon enquiry I found, that the credu⯑lous people believed theſe holes to be the marks of God's fingers. In the in⯑ſide of this chapel is the image of the Virgin, which vies with the lady of Lo⯑retto both in beauty of countenance and richneſs of apparel; her face, as well as that of the child ſhe holds in her arms, being black. She is richly dreſſ⯑ed, and every week ſhe changes her gar⯑ment; her wardrobe conſiſting of fifty-two different ſuits.

The riches of the treaſury are immenſe; containing an infinite number of offerings of gold, ſilver, and precious ſtones, arrang⯑ed in the moſt ridiculous manner imagi⯑nable. There were alſo ſkulls and bones richly ornamented; whole ſkeletons of ſaints in maſquerade, and of ladies with ruffles, fly-caps, and ſplendid apparel as if dreſſed for a ball. What a wretch⯑ed inſult upon poor human nature! I could not help conſidering them with a mixture of pity and indignation, as [80] the offerings of ignorance before the ſhrine of bigotry and ſuperſtition. The miracles which the Virgin has wrought in this country are infinite, if we may judge from the prodigious number of figures of ears, eyes, legs, arms, heads, &c. preſented by thoſe, who fancied themſelves reſpectively cured in thoſe ſeveral members, by the power of this wonder-working image.

I was glad however to find, in the midſt of this ſuperſtitious trumpery, a good library, which contained ſome very fine editions of the claſſics.

In this place there is a conſiderable traffic carried on, of roſaries, croſſes, little images, &c.; and there are rows of ſhops, where nothing is to be pur⯑chaſed but theſe neceſſary appendages of the Roman catholic religion: it has all the appearance of a fair. There is alſo a room in the abbey, where the ſame kind of merchandiſe is expoſed to ſale; and one of the friars attends to [81] receive your money, and very gravely aſſures you, that the ſeveral articles have touched the ſacred image. Among other curioſities of this kind, I pur⯑chaſed two ribands, for two pence each, with the following inſcription upon them: Ce Ruban entier, eſt la longueur; juſqu'au trait eſt l'epaiſſeur, de l'image de notre dame des hermites. Il a touché l'image miraculeuſe.

Is it credible, that in this enlightened age, the moſt notorious ſuperſtition and impoſture can appear thus barefaced? I muſt confeſs that theſe impoſitions raiſe my indignation: and, though it ‘"exceeds all power of face"’ to keep one's countenance at their glaring ab⯑ſurdity; yet every friend to true religion cannot at the ſame time but feel ſenſi⯑bly ſhocked, to ſee the purity of genuine chriſtianity thus ſhamefully diſguiſed and proſtituted.

This abbey (conſiſting of ſixty Bene⯑dictines that elect the abbot, who is [82] titular prince of the empire) is very rich, and has conſiderable revenues in the canton of Zuric.

Rapperſchwyl, Auguſt 2.

The evening, yeſterday, being fine and cool, I walked from Einſidlin to this place. After we had aſcended about three miles, a fine view of the lake of Zuric, and of the adjacent country, opened upon us at once. The pro⯑ſpect was extenſive and beautiful: the ſolemn ſtillneſs of the evening, the calmneſs of the lake, and the tints of the ſetting ſun, which glowed around the horiſon, very much improved its charms. When we arrived at the lake, the moon began to riſe; and, throwing its beams acroſs the water, formed another ſcene, more mild indeed, but not leſs affecting. We then croſſed the bridge of Rap⯑perſchwyl, built over the narroweſt part of the lake: it meaſured near 1700 paces. The town is pleaſantly ſituated [83] upon a neck of land or promontory, that juts out into the lake. It for⯑merly put itſelf under the protection of Uri, Schweitz, Underwalden, and Gla⯑ris, with a reſerve of all its privileges: but theſe cantons ſhamefully oppreſſing the inhabitants, and encroaching upon their liberties; Zuric and Berne took poſſeſſion of the town in 1712, and re⯑ſtored to them their antient rights. From that period Rapperſchwyl has been under the protection of Zuric, Berne, and Glaris; the latter having preſerved its right by its neutr lity. By this treaty the town recovered its former prerogatives; and the inhabitants, in teſtimony of their gratitude, have placed the following inſcription over the gates: Amicis Tutoribus floret libertas. They are all Catholics.

LETTER VIII.

YESTERDAY we dined luxuriouſly with the Capuchin friars at Rap⯑perſchwyl, who ſeldom regale their gueſts in ſo ſumptuous a manner. It was one of their great feaſt-days; and accordingly they gave us every poſſible variety of freſh-water fiſh, with which the lake and the neighbouring rivers abound. The convent is built upon the edge of the water, and commands from ſome of the apartments a very agreeable proſpect: the library is by far the pleaſanteſt room, though not the moſt frequented. The cells of the monks are ſmall, and yet not inconvenient; but cleanlineſs does not ſeem to conſtitute any part of their mo⯑ral or religious obſervances. Indeed the very habit of the order is ill calculated for that purpoſe, as they wear no ſhirt or ſtockings, and are clothed in a coarſe [85] kind of brown drugget robe, which trails upon the ground. Strange idea of ſanctity! as if dirt could be accept⯑able to the Deity. I reflected with par⯑ticular ſatisfaction, that I was not born a member of the Roman Catholic church; as perhaps the commands of a parent, a ſudden diſappointment, or a momentary fit of enthuſiaſm, might have ſent me to a convent of Ca⯑puchins, and have wedded me to dirt and ſuperſtition for life.

After dinner we took leave of our hoſts, and departed for Zuric by wa⯑ter: the lake is near ten leagues in length, and one in breadth. This body of water is not near ſo large as that of Con⯑ſtance; but the borders are ſtudded thicker with villages and towns: and as we approached Zuric, the edges of the lake were ſkirted with a continued range of villas, which being intermixed among vineyards and paſture-grounds, produced a moſt pleaſing effect. The ad⯑jacent country is finely cultivated and well [86] peopled; and the ſouthern part of the lake appears at ſome little diſtance bounded with the high ſtupendous mountains of Schweitz and Glaris: the ſcenery all to⯑gether is pictureſque, lively, and diver⯑ſified.

Zuric was formerly an imperial city, and obtained from the emperor Frederic II. very conſiderable privileges; which were acknowledged and augmented by ſeveral of his ſucceſſors. The civil war between the magiſtrates and the people, in 1335, was very near reducing the city to ruins; but the former being ba⯑niſhed, the citizens, in 1337, eſtabliſhed a new form of government, which was confirmed by the emperor Louis of Ba⯑varia. The exiles, after ſeveral fruitleſs attempts, were at length re-admitted; but it being diſcovered that they had engaged in a conſpiracy againſt the citi⯑zens, they were all of them put to death. In conſequence of this tranſaction, the nobles in the neighbourhood took up arms againſt the town: the latter, after [87] having applied ineffectually for aſſiſtance to the emperor Charles IV. entered into an alliance with the four cantons Lu⯑cerne, Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden, and was admitted a member of their confederacy. This event happened in the year 1351. The four cantons yielded the pre-eminence to Zuric: which privilege it enjoys at preſent; be⯑ing the firſt canton in rank, and the moſt conſiderable in extent both of ter⯑ritory and power next to Berne. The ſame year in which Zuric entered into this alliance, ſhe was aſſiſted by the four cantons above-mentioned, againſt Albert duke of Auſtria, who beſieged the town, and was repulſed with great loſs.

Zuric was the firſt town in Swiſſer⯑land, that ſeparated from the church of Rome; being converted by the argu⯑ments of Zuingle^*. That celebrated [88] reformer was born Jan. 1, 1484, at Vildehauſen, a ſmall village in the Toc⯑kenbourg; and when very young, was appointed curate of Glaris. Even be⯑fore the publication of the ſale of indul⯑gences by Leo X. which was the more immediate cauſe of the reformation, Zuingle had expoſed at Glaris ſeveral ſuperſtitions of the church of Rome; and he gained additional credit, by [89] preaching at Einſidlin againſt vows, pilgrimages, and offerings. After the publication of the ſale of indulgences; while Luther was undermining the fa⯑bric of papal authority in Germany, Zuingle was no leſs ſucceſsful in Swiſ⯑ſerland. By his zeal and intrepidity, and by the irreſiſtible force of truth, he gained ſo many converts at Zuric (where he had been invited to preach) that in 1524 the magiſtrates aboliſhed the maſs, and other Catholic ceremonies, and introduced the reformed religion. The diſputes between the two ſects were carried on with more temper and mo⯑deration than is uſual in religious con⯑troverſies. The change, which had been ſome time in agitation, was finally determined by a plurality of voices in the ſovereign council: and the people readily and chearfully obeyed the deci⯑ſion of their magiſtrates. The exam⯑ple of Zuric was ſoon followed by Berne, Schaffhauſen, Baſil, with part of [90] Glaris and Appenzel; the other cantons continuing to adhere to the religion of their anceſtors. From this period the two religions have been eſtabliſhed in Swiſſerland; but that harmony, which had hitherto been preſerved between them, has occaſionally been interrupted. Indeed even ſo early as the year 1551, religious diſputes broke out with ſo much violence and animoſity, as to oc⯑caſion the firſt civil war among the can⯑tons; in which the Proteſtants were defeated, and Zuingle loſt his life at the battle of Cappel^*. Since that period [91] two other religious wars have been kindled; one in 1656, in which the Catholics gained the advantage; and the other in 1712, when the Proteſtants proved victorious. The peace of Araw, which put an end to theſe unhappy diſ⯑putes, has, it is to be hoped, finally ſettled all religious differences. By that treaty, which may be conſidered as a ſort of code of toleration among the Swiſs; the treatment of the Proteſtants and Catholics in the common bailliages, is regulated. The firſt article ſtipu⯑lates, that in all the provinces, which are ſubject to cantons of different reli⯑gion, there ſhall be a perfect equality between the two ſects, and that they ſhall both enjoy the ſame privileges: to which is added an expreſs prohibition to each party not to make uſe of any terms of raillery or contempt, in ſpeak⯑ing of their reſpective worſhips.

This canton abounds in corn, wine, and excellent paſtures: it is 40 miles by 30, [92] and exceedingly populous; containing about an hundred and fifty thouſand ſouls; of which there are upwards of twelve thouſand in the capital. The ſovereignty reſides excluſively in the burgeſſes of the town, conſiſting in all of about two thouſand; which peculiar reſtriction ariſes from the following cir⯑cumſtance:—During the earlier ages of the republic, the town being in poſſeſ⯑ſion of but a ſmall extent of territory, the citizens of courſe exerciſed the powers of ſovereignty; and when they afterwards gradually obtained conſider⯑able acquiſitions, either by conqueſt or purchaſe, they ſtill reſerved to them⯑ſelves this pre-eminence; all their new ſubjects being excluded from any ſhare in the government. This remark will hold good with reſpect to the ſeven ariſtocratical cantons. I cannot but add, that a very narrow ſpirit of po⯑licy reigns throughout moſt of the ſtates of Swiſſerland; as they ſeldom or ne⯑ver [93] make a new citizen. This rule however in ſome of the republics is leſs ſcrupulouſly obſerved than in others. In Zuric indeed the citizens are ſo te⯑nacious of their privileges, that (as I was informed by one of their magiſ⯑trates) it is now an hundred and fifty years ſince they have admitted a new citizen. The burgeſſes, beſides the ad⯑vantage of electing their magiſtrates, and of aſpiring to the adminiſtration of affairs, enjoy the ſole right of com⯑merce; all ſtrangers, and even ſubjects of the canton, being excluded from car⯑rying on any trade in the city.

The citizens or burgeſſes of Zuric, are divided into thirteen tribes: one of theſe conſiſts of perſons who do not profeſs any trade, and are called the nobles. It is ſomewhat extraordinary, that in a repub⯑lic abſolutely commercial, ſuch a diſtinc⯑tion ſhould be made; and that commerce ſhould in any reſpect be conſidered as a degradation. All the other citizens [94] following commerce, or exerciſing any trade, are diſtributed among the twelve remaining claſſes.

The legiſlative authority is veſted by the burgeſſes in the ſovereign council of two hundred; conſiſting however of two hundred and twelve members drawn from the thirteen tribes, and compriſing the ſenate or little council. The latter is compoſed of twenty-four tribunes taken equally from twelve of the tribes, and four counſellors choſen by the tribe of the nobles: to theſe are added, twenty counſellors elected by the ſove⯑reign council; and all theſe with the two burgomaſters make fifty members. Half of this little council adminiſter the office during ſix months; at the end of which they are ſucceeded by the other half: the preſident of each diviſion is one of the burgomaſters, who are both choſen by the ſovereign council and confirmed annually. They have juriſdiction in all cauſes civil and [95] criminal: in the former, when the de⯑mand is of a certain importance, an appeal lies from the ſenate to the coun⯑cil of two hundred; but in criminal, their ſentence is final, and, when once paſſed, there is no poſſibility of obtain⯑ing any reverſal or mitigation. An excellent maxim! provided the judges are cautious and circumſpect, and the laws mild: for there is no greater en⯑couragement to the commiſſion of crimes, than the frequency of pardons. Such an inſtitution however ought ne⯑ceſſarily to exclude ſeverity of puniſh⯑ment; and could never be admitted in a ſtate, where by the letter of the law the ſame puniſhment is inflicted upon him who ſteals a ſheep, as upon the man who murders his father.

Great therefore is the power of the ſenate, conſidered in their collective ca⯑pacity; being abſolute judges in all criminal cauſes, guardians of the po⯑lice, and the ſelect body of men from [96] whom the principal magiſtrates are cho⯑ſen. But, as too great a power of in⯑dividuals is dangerous in a republic; the ſeveral members of this aſſembly are liable to be changed: and a revi⯑ſion or confirmation is annually made, in ſome inſtances by the ſovereign coun⯑cil, in others by the particular tribes, to which the ſenators belong. This an⯑nual reviſion is a great check to mal⯑adminiſtration; and at the ſame time prevents the ſenate from gaining ſo great an influence, as to be detrimental to the liberties of the people. A burgeſs is qualified to vote at twenty; is eligi⯑ble into the ſovereign council at thirty; and into the ſenate at thirty-five. By theſe wiſe regulations, a man muſt have had ſome experience in public affairs before he is capable of holding a charge of any conſequence. The revenues of government are more than proportion⯑ate to the expences; which are regu⯑lated with the ſtricteſt oeconomy. The [97] ſtate is not only without debts, but a ſaving is yearly made, and depoſited in the public treaſury, for a reſort upon any ſudden emergency. It was from this fund that the government ſupport⯑ed the whole expence of the war in 1712, againſt the Catholic cantons, without impoſing any additional tax.

Sumptuary laws, as well as thoſe againſt immorality, are here well ob⯑ſerved. The former indeed may exiſt, and be carried into execution even a⯑mong a people much corrupted; for it may be the policy of government to en⯑force their obſervance. But the ſevereſt penalties will not be ſufficient to pre⯑vent crimes of an immoral tendency, amidſt a general diſſoluteneſs of man⯑ners: it is the popular principles that can alone invigorate ſuch laws, and give them their full operation. Among the Romans, the laws againſt adultery were ſevere; and yet where was adultery more practiſed than at Rome? In Zuric it [98] is rigorouſly puniſhed, without any diſ⯑tinction of rank, by fine, by expulſion from office, and by impriſonment: but the frequency of this crime is not ſo much reſtrained by the penalty annexed to it, as from the general good morals of the inhabitants. Secret crimes can⯑not be prevented; but it is an evident proof of public virtue, when open breaches of immorality are diſcounte⯑nanced. Among their ſumptuary laws, the uſe of a carriage in the town is pro⯑hibited to all ſorts of perſons except ſtrangers: and it is almoſt inconceiv⯑able that, in a place ſo very commercial and wealthy, luxury ſhould ſo little pre⯑vail.

At Zuric there is more of the ori⯑ginal Swiſs ſpirit of independence, than in any of the large towns of this coun⯑try. The magiſtrates, leſs influenced by foreign courts, and above corruption, conſult always the real advantage of their canton, and of the Helvetic con⯑federacy. [99] Zuric ſtill preſerves in the general diet a very conſiderable ſway; which ſhe derives more from the opinion entertained of her integrity, than from her power: ſhe is looked up to as one of the moſt independent and upright of the thirteen cantons.

The city of Zuric ſtands upon a gentle eminence on the northern extre⯑mity of the lake: a beautiful ſituation, and advantageous for commerce. For, by means of the river Limmat, which iſſues from the lake, and dividing the town, falls into the Aar; there is a communication with the Rhine. And this advantage has not been neglected; as the trade of the town is very exten⯑ſive. The inhabitants are exceedingly induſtrious, and carry on with ſucceſs ſeveral different branches of manufac⯑ture; the principal is that of crape. Their chief traffic is with France, Ruſ⯑ſia, Italy, and Holland.

Since the reformation many perſons [100] have flouriſhed here eminent for their learning, in all branches of literature: and there is no town in Swiſſerland, where letters are more encouraged, or where they are cultivated with greater ſucceſs. I waited this morning upon the celebrated Geſner, author of the death of Abel, and of ſeveral idyls, which for their delicate and elegant ſim⯑plicity are juſtly eſteemed. They a⯑bound with thoſe nice touches of ex⯑quiſite ſenſibility, which diſcover a mind warmed with the fineſt ſentiments; and love is repreſented in the chaſteſt co⯑louring of innocence, virtue, and bene⯑volence. Nor has he confined his ſub⯑jects merely to the tender paſſion: paternal affection, and filial reverence; gratitude, humanity, in ſhort every mo⯑ral duty is exhibited and inculcated in the moſt pleaſing and affecting manner. He has for ſome time renounced poetry in order to take up the pencil; and painting is at preſent his favourite a⯑muſement. [101] A treatiſe which he has publiſhed on landſcape-painting, ſhews the elegance of his taſte and the verſa⯑tility of his genius; while his compoſi⯑tions in both kinds prove the reſem⯑blance of the two arts; and that the conceptions of the poet and of the painter are congenial. I prefer his drawings in black and white, to his paintings; for although the ideas in both are equally beautiful or ſublime, his colouring is inferior to his deſign. He is preparing an handſome edition of his writings in quarto, in which every part of the work is carried on by him⯑ſelf: he prints them at his own pri⯑vate preſs; and is at once both the drawer and engraver of his plates. It is to be lamented that he has renounced poetry; for, while ordinary writers ſpring up in great plenty; authors of real genius are rare and uncommon. His drawings are ſeen only by a few, and will ſcarcely be known to poſterity: [102] but his writings are diſperſed abroad, tranſlated into every language, and will be admired by future ages, as long as there remains any reliſh for true paſto⯑ral ſimplicity, or any taſte for original compoſition. He is plain in his man⯑ners; open, affable, and obliging in his addreſs, and of ſingular modeſty: he has nothing of the poet in his appear⯑ance except in his eye, which is full of ſenſe, fire, and expreſſion.

We waited alſo on Mr. Lavater, a clergyman of Zuric, and celebrated phy⯑ſiognomiſt, who has publiſhed a famous treatiſe on that fanciful ſubject. He expreſſed himſelf badly in French; but there was an agreeable warmth and vi⯑vacity in his countenance and manner, while he converſed upon his favourite ſubject. That particular paſſions have a certain effect upon particular features, is evident to the moſt common obſerver; and it may be conceived, that an ha⯑bitual indulgence of theſe paſſions may [103] poſſibly, in ſome caſes, impreſs a diſ⯑tinguiſhing mark upon the counte⯑nance: but that a certain caſt of fea⯑tures conſtantly denotes certain paſ⯑ſions; and that by contemplating the former we can infallibly diſcover alſo the mental qualities of the owner, is an hypotheſis liable (I ſhould think) to ſo many exceptions, that no general and uniform ſyſtem could be juſtly formed upon it. Nevertheleſs Mr. Lavater, like a true enthuſiaſt, carries his theory much farther: for he not only pretends to diſcover the characters and paſſions by the features, by the complexion, by the form of the head, and by the motion of the arms; but he alſo draws ſome inferences of the ſame kind even from one's hand-writing. And indeed his ſyſtem is formed upon ſuch univerſal principles, that he applies the ſame rules to all animated nature, extending them not only to brutes, but even to inſects. That the temper of a horſe may be diſ⯑covered [104] by his countenance, will not ſtrike you as any thing abſurd: but did you ever hear before that any quality could be inferred from the phyſiognomy of a Bee, or of an Ant? While I give you my opinion thus freely concerning Mr. Lavater's notions, you will readily perceive that I am not one of thoſe, who are initiated into the myſteries of his art. Nor do I mean to cenſure indiſcri⯑minately the ſyſtem of that celebrated writer: for, notwithſtanding the extra⯑vagance of ſome of his tenets, the ſe⯑vereſt critics allow, that there is a fund of good ſenſe and a variety of fine obſer⯑vations diſperſed throughout his treatiſe; and that it is one of thoſe works, which, to be admired, needs only to be read with attention.

The clergy of Zuric are in general better paid than in the other Proteſtant cantons; and among that body there are ſome, who are very decently pro⯑vided for: a circumſtance rather un⯑common in the Reformed or Preſbyte⯑rian churches.

[105] The public granary, on account of its admirable inſtitution, deſerves to be particularly mentioned. Corn is pur⯑chaſed by government, and given out to thoſe who chooſe to buy it, at the common prize; but in ſeaſons of ſcar⯑city it is ſold conſiderably cheaper, than it can be bought at the market. The uſe of this inſtitution appeared in the late dearth; when bread, from the dearneſs of corn, was ſold at ten pence the pound, government delivered the ſame quantity for four pence.

The arſenal is well ſupplied with cannon, arms, and ammunition; and contains a reſerve of muſkets for thirty thouſand men. We ſaw there, and ad⯑mired, ſome of the two-handed ſwords and weighty armour of the old Swiſs warriors; as alſo the bow and arrow with which William Tell is ſaid to have ſhot the apple off the head of his ſon.

This canton has a regiment and ſome companies in France, a regiment in [106] Holland, and ſome companies in the ſervice of the King of Sardinia. It has long been a queſtion how far Swiſ⯑ſerland has been benefited by enliſting her ſubjects in foreign armies. But, without entering into that enquiry, I ſhall only obſerve, that Zuingle violently de⯑claimed againſt this practice, as intro⯑ducing a corruption of morals: and he had intereſt ſufficient to prevent Zuric from joining in the general alliance, which all the Swiſs cantons entered into with Francis I. Since that period, Zuric continued firm in her refuſals until the reign of Henry IV. when this canton finally acceded to the treaty with that monarch.

LETTER IX.

WE walked yeſterday to Albis, a ſmall village about three leagues from Zuric, ſituated upon the ſummit of a ſteep mountain, which commands a fine view of that town, the lake, and its environs. We were lucky in eſcap⯑ing a violent ſhower of rain, accom⯑panied with a ſtorm of thunder and lightning, which had threatened for ſome time, and began immediately upon our arrival: but we were well houſed, and our hoſt gave us a good ſupper and an excellent bottle of Muſcat wine. We were abroad this morning by five, and had a very agreeable walk to this place; the weather, which had of late been very ſultry, being cooled by the lightning and rain. We paſſed over the field of battle at Cappel, where [108] Zuingle was killed; and continued our way along the fields through a pleaſant country, ſo thickly planted with fruit-trees, that I could hardly diſtinguiſh any other ſort. Indeed we had before remarked the prodigious number of thoſe trees in ſeveral other parts of Swiſſer⯑land, the country being in many places almoſt one continued orchard.

Zug, the capital of this canton (and the only walled town among all the po⯑pular ones) ſtands delightfully upon the edge of a beautiful lake, in a fertile valley, abounding with corn, paſture-ground, and fruit-trees. This canton formerly belonged to the Houſe of Auſtria; and it continued faithful to that family when the other neighbouring ſtates had formed themſelves into independent republics. As it lies between Zuric and Schweitz, the communication between thoſe two cantons was kept up with difficulty; and by this means frequent opportuni⯑ties were afforded to the houſe of Auſtria [109] of invading and harraſſing the Swiſs. Under theſe circumſtances, the ſix allied cantons, in 1351, laid ſiege to Zug, which was reſolutely defended by the inhabi⯑tants; but as Albert duke of Auſtria was in no condition to ſend them any aſſiſtance, the town at length ſurren⯑dered upon the moſt honourable con⯑ditions. The generoſity of the con⯑querors was equal to the courage and magnanimity of the vanquiſhed: for, in conſequence of this ſubmiſſion, the inhabitants of the canton of Zug were delivered from the yoke of a foreign maſter, obtained the moſt aſſured liberty and independence, and were admitted into the Helvetic confederacy upon equal terms.

The government of this little canton is exceedingly complicated; and the in⯑habitants of this town have ſomewhat more influence, and enjoy a greater ſhare in the adminiſtration of affairs, than thoſe of the capital burghs in the [110] five other democratical cantons. The ſupreme power reſides in the inhabitants of the four diſtricts of Zug, Bar, Egeri, and Meutzingen; who aſſemble yearly (like thoſe of Glaris and Appenzel) to enact laws, and to chooſe their magiſ⯑trates. The Landamman is elected by the ſuffrages of the whole collective diſ⯑tricts, but is taken alternately from each of the four communities above-men⯑tioned: he continues three years in of⯑fice, when taken from the diſtrict of Zug, and but two years when choſen from each of the three others. And there is this peculiar difference between the five other cantons and that of Zug; that, whereas in the former the Landamman, upon the expiration of his office, always retains a conſiderable pre-eminence in the council of regency; in the latter, when he quits his charge, he has not the leaſt diſtinction above any other coun⯑ſellor. The general adminiſtration of affairs is entruſted to the council of re⯑gency, [111] compoſed of forty members: of which the diſtrict of Zug furniſhes thir⯑teen, and the others are taken equally from the three remaining communities. This council, as well as the Landamman, reſides always in the capital town.

Oſwald, one of our old Britiſh kings, is the titular Saint of this place; and in the church is his ſtatue, with the follow⯑ing inſcription:

This Oſwald was (if I remember right) a king of Northumberland in the ſe⯑venth century; and is much renowned among the monkiſh writers for his chaſ⯑tity, piety, and power of working mi⯑racles. I have been endeavouring to make out, what connection a Britiſh king, under the heptarchy, could have had with a ſmall canton of Swiſſerland; without reflecting how fruitleſs is the attempt to give any reaſon for abſurd [112] cuſtoms. In the church of Rome, ſaints are eaſily tranſplanted into any ſoil; and caprice, as well as ſuperſtition, may have inclined the inhabitants of Zug to adore a ſaint, whoſe name is barely known in his own country.

LETTER X.

WE took boat at Zug, and being rowed acroſs the lake (which is about three leagues long, and one broad) were landed at a ſmall village in the canton of Schweitz. From thence we walked to Kuſſnacht; and in our way paſſed by a ſmall chapel ſacred to William Tell, erected on the ſpot where, it is ſaid, he ſhot the Auſtrian governor. At Kuſſnacht, we embarked upon the lake of Lucerne; and were much ſtruck [113] upon our approach with the fine view of that town, which we thought ſuperior even to Zuric in the beauty of its ſituation.

Lucerne, originally ſubject to the houſe of Auſtria, was continually ex⯑poſed to the inroads of Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden; after thoſe cantons had ſecured their own liberty and inde⯑pendence. All her commerce to Italy, was by this means interrupted; her fairs unfrequented; and her citizens compelled to be ever in arms, in order to protect their territory from inceſſant depredations. Under theſe circumſtances, the houſe of Auſtria; inſtead of giving the citizens any effectual aſſiſtance, im⯑prudently loaded them with additional taxes, as exorbitant as they were un⯑juſt. The conſequence was, that Lu⯑cerne made her peace with the confe⯑derate cantons; and, having ſoon after driven out the Auſtrian party, entered into a perpetual alliance with Uri, Schweitz, [114] and Underwalden, and became a mem⯑ber of the Helvetic confederacy.

The acceſſion of Lucerne gave addi⯑tional credit and power to the confe⯑deracy; and enabled it, in 1386, to re⯑ſiſt all the efforts of a great and im⯑placable enemy. In that year, Leopold duke of Auſtria invaded the canton with a numerous army; when the com⯑bined troops gained a bloody victory at Sempach, in which Leopold loſt his life. In the accounts of this battle, an inſtance of private valour in an individual is recorded, which would have done honour to a Grecian or a Roman name, and only wants the pen of a Thucydides or a Livy to be equalled in fame to the exploits of the moſt admired heroes of antiquity. The Auſtrian army, far ſu⯑perior in number, was drawn up in firm battalion, accoutred in heavy ar⯑mour, and furniſhed with long pikes, which they preſented before them. The Swiſs troops were led on to the attack [115] in the form of a wedge, in order to open their way into the ranks of the enemy, and to break the ſolidity of the battalion. The latter, nevertheleſs, con⯑tinuing for ſome time impenetrable; Arnold de Winkelried, a native of Un⯑derwalden, ruſhed alone upon the ene⯑my to certain death; and, ſeizing as many pikes as he could graſp, endea⯑voured to force through the ranks: but he was killed in the attempt. His pa⯑triotic valour, however, was not exerted in vain: it inflamed the Swiſs with new courage, and taught them the beſt method of penetrating into the battalion; which they at length effected, after the moſt deſperate efforts of invincible reſolu⯑tion.

Leopold himſelf might have eſcaped, when his troops firſt began to give way; but, with a magnanimity worthy of a better fate, he determined, after having been a witneſs to the total rout of his army, not to ſurvive ſo ignominious [116] a day: accordingly he ruſhed into the thickeſt of the enemy, and was ſlain. In the arſenal of this place are ſtill preſerved his armour, together with a large quantity of cords; which, ac⯑cording to the tradition of the coun⯑try, he is ſaid to have brought with him, in order to bind the citizens of Lucerne. The keeper of the arſenal diſplayed them to us with the ſame kind of triumph, as the man, who ſhews the Tower of London, points out the chains that were taken on board the Spaniſh armada; which, he tells you, Philip II. deſtined for the principal nobility of England.

The government of Lucerne is en⯑tirely ariſtocratical, or rather indeed oli⯑garchical. There are five hundred citi⯑zens in the town, from whom a council of one hundred, compriſing the ſenate or council of ſtate, are choſen. The for⯑mer is the nominal ſovereign; but the whole power actually reſides in the lat⯑ter, [117] conſiſting of thirty-ſix members, who are formed, like that of Zuric, into two diviſions, which exerciſe the office by rotation. But the members of this ſenate are far from being ſub⯑ject to the ſame controul as at Zuric; for, they are neither confirmed by the ſovereign council, nor by the citizens, but are only dependent upon them⯑ſelves: the diviſion which retires at the end of ſix months, confirming that which comes into office. Beſides, the vacant places in the ſenate are filled up by their own body; ſo that the power re⯑mains in the poſſeſſion of a few patrician families: and, as the ſon generally ſuc⯑ceeds his father, or the brother his bro⯑ther, the ſenatorial dignity may be con⯑ſidered, in ſome meaſure, as hereditary.

The adminiſtration of the current affairs, the care of the police, the ma⯑nagement of the finances, and the whole executive power, reſides in the ſenate, which ſits conſtantly; whereas [118] the ſupreme council is aſſembled only upon particular occaſions, for the purpoſes of legiſlation, and the like. The ſenate has cognizance of criminal cauſes; but in caſe of capital condem⯑nation, the ſovereign council is con⯑voked in order to pronourice the ſen⯑tence: a practice worthy of imitation! for the condemnation of a criminal can⯑not be too maturely weighed; and the more ſolemnity is uſed in pronouncing the ſentence, the greater effect it muſt have upon the minds of the people. In civil cauſes an appeal lies from the ſe⯑nate to the ſovereign council: but this muſt be a mere formality; as in effect it is an appeal from the ſenators in one court to the ſame ſenators in ano⯑ther. Indeed, their influence over the ſovereign council muſt neceſſarily be abſolute: for, they themſelves conſti⯑tute above a third of that body; chuſe their own members; are in poſſeſſion of the principal charges of government, [119] and confer moſt of them; and have the nomination to the vacant eccleſiaſtical benefices, which are very conſiderable; near two thirds of the revenues of the canton belonging to the clergy.

The chiefs of the republic are two Avoyers, who are choſen from the ſenate by the council of one hundred, and are confirmed annually. In all elections whatſoever, the relations of the candi⯑dates, to the third degree, are excluded from voting: and neither the father and the ſon, nor two brothers, can be members of the ſenate at the ſame time. Excellent inſtitutions, one ſhould think, to prevent the too great influence of family-connections; excellent indeed in theory, but uſeleſs in practice: and this circumſtancce proves, that when the ſpirit of the conſtitution is purely oligarchical, any laws paſſed in order to counteract the power of the nobles, are mere cyphers. In ſome few in⯑ſtances, however, the exorbitant autho⯑rity [118] [...] [119] [...] [120] of the nobles is checked: for, in caſe of declaring war and peace, form⯑ing new alliances, or of impoſing new taxes, the citizens muſt be aſſembled, and give their conſent.

As Lucerne is firſt in rank and power among the Catholic cantons; all affairs relative to religion are treated of in the diet which aſſembles in this town every year, compoſed of the deputies of thoſe cantons: and the pope's nuncio reſides here. The town contains ſcarcely three thouſand inhabitants; has no manu⯑factures of any conſequence, and little commerce: and as to learning, it no where meets with leſs encouragement, and conſequently is leſs cultivated. What a contraſt to Zuric! The population of the canton has conſiderably encreaſed within this century: a ſure proof of a mild and equitable government. The inhabitants are, as I am informed, al⯑moſt totally engaged in agriculture. The ſouthern parts of the canton are [121] chiefly mountainous, and furniſh for exportation cattle, hides, cheeſe, and butter: all the northern part is fruitful in corn; the crops of which being more than ſufficient for the conſumption of the whole canton, there is a conſtant ex⯑portation of this article from the weekly market held in the town; to which the inhabitants of the neighbouring demo⯑cratical cantons reſort, in order to pur⯑chaſe that and other neceſſaries in which their own country is deficient. The overplus that is wanted to ſupply this market, is drawn from Suabia and Alſace. This commerce, which (to⯑gether with the paſſage of the mer⯑chandiſe for Italy) is the chief ſupport of the town, might be exceedingly im⯑proved and augmented, conſidering its advantageous ſituation: for, the Reuſs iſſues from the lake, paſſes through the town, and, having joined the Aar, falls into the Rhine.

The whole of what is remarkable in [122] the town, may be compriſed in a very ſhort deſcription. The cathedral and the Jeſuits' church, are the only public build⯑ings worth obſerving; but they are too much loaded with rich ornaments, and diſgraced by bad paintings. In the ca⯑thedral is an organ of a fine tone, and of an extraordinary ſize: of the latter you may judge by the dimenſions of the center pipe; which, as the prieſt aſſured me, is forty feet in length, and near three in breadth, and weighs eleven hundred pounds. The bridges which ſkirt the town, round the edge of the lake, are the faſhionable walks of the place, and are remarkable for their length. They are covered at top, and open at the ſides; by which means one has a conſtant view of this delightful and romantic country. They are deco⯑rated with wretched paintings, conſiſt⯑ing of the hiſtories of the Old Teſta⯑ment, the battles of the Swiſs, and the dance of Death.

[123] Upon our arrival here yeſterday, we ſent a letter of recommendation to ge⯑neral Pfiffer, who received us imme⯑diately, with his uſual civility. We had heard ſo much of a topographical repreſentation he has formed of part of Swiſſerland, that we were anxious to get a ſight of it; as indeed it well de⯑ſerves particular notice, and merits the moſt accurate attention of the curious traveller. The ingenious artiſt is a na⯑tive of Lucerne, and general in the French ſervice, and has devoted his leiſure time to the compleating of this work. It is a model in relief; and what is at preſent finiſhed contains about ſixty ſquare leagues of the moſt mountainous parts of Swiſſerland; name⯑ly, part of the cantons of Lucerne, Zug, and Berne, together with the whole of Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden: and the general has taken elevations and drawings for above as much more. The model of what is completed is twelve [124] feet long, and nine and a half broad. The principal part is compoſed of wax, the mountains of ſtone, and the whole is coloured: but what deſerves more particular obſervation is, that not only the woods of beech, of pine, &c. are differently marked; but alſo the out⯑ward ſtrata of the ſeveral mountains, as well as their form, are diſtinguiſhed. General Pfiffer has already been em⯑ployed in this work about ten years, with the utmoſt patience and aſſiduity: he has himſelf raiſed the plans upon the ſpots, taken the elevations of the mountains, and laid them down in their ſeveral proportions. The plan is ſo minutely exact, that it takes in not only all the mountains, lakes, rivers, towns, villages, and foreſts; but every cottage, every torrent, every bridge, and even every croſs is diſtinctly and accu⯑rately repreſented. In the proſecution of this laborious performance, he has been twice arreſted for a ſpy; and in [125] the popular cantons has frequently been forced to work by moon-light, in or⯑der to avoid the jealouſy of the pea⯑ſants, who think their liberty would be endangered, ſhould ſo exact a plan be taken of their country. As he is obliged to remain ſome time upon the tops of the Alps, where no proviſion can be procured; he generally carries with him a few ſhe-goats, whoſe milk ſupplies him with nouriſhment. In⯑deed his perſeverance in ſurmounting all the difficulties, that neceſſarily have ariſen in the courſe of this undertaking, is almoſt inconceivable. When he has finiſhed any particular part, he ſends for the peaſants who reſide near the ſpot, eſpecially thoſe who hunt the cha⯑mois, and bids them examine accurately each particular mountain; whether it correſponds, as far as the ſmallneſs of the ſcale will admit, with its natural appearance: and then, by frequently re-touching, he corrects the deficiencies. [126] He takes all his elevations from the level of the lake of Lucerne; which, according to Mr. De Sauſſure, is about fourteen hundred and eight feet above the Mediterranean.

This model, exhibiting the moſt moun⯑tainous parts of Swiſſerland, conveys a ſublime picture of an immenſe body of alps piled one upon another: as if the ſtory of the Titans were realized, and they had ſucceeded (at leaſt in one part of the globe) in heaping an Oſſa upon a Pelion, and an Olympus upon an Oſſa. The general informed me (and it is ſomewhat remarkable) that the tops of the alps which croſs Swiſ⯑ſerland in the ſame line, are nearly of the ſame level; or in other words, there are continued chains of mountains of the ſame elevation, riſing in progreſ⯑ſion to the higheſt range; and from thence gradually deſcending in the ſame proportion towards Italy.

[127] He is exceedingly polite and affable to ſtrangers, and ever ready to be of any ſervice to travellers, in pointing out to them the beſt roads, and in ac⯑quainting them with the places moſt worthy of obſervation. From what I ſaw of him, he ſeemed to be a man of a more lively imagination, than one ſhould have expected, conſidering the indefatigable patience and laborious pre⯑ciſion neceſſary for the execution of a work of this nature.

Near Lucerne is Mount Pilate, for⯑merly called Mons Pileatus, from the Latin word pilea; its top being generally covered with a cloud or cap. This word has been corrupted into Pilatus; and from this alteration a thouſand ridiculous ſtories have been invented; among others, that Pontius Pilate, af⯑ter having condemned our Saviour to death, was ſeized with remorſe, made a little excurſion into Swiſſerland, and drowned himſelf in a lake, which [128] is at the top of this mountain. This corruption of a word, and this abſurd legend fabricated from its alteration, will naturally remind you of ſeveral others of ſimilar abſurdity, which are ſeriouſly related by the Greek writers: a circumſtance which my very worthy and learned friend Mr. Bryant, has ſo amply and ably diſcuſſed, in his Analyſis of ancient Mythology.

LETTER XI.

THE Waldſtaer See, or the lake of the four cantons, is by far the moſt beautiful and diverſified body of water of this kind I have yet ſeen. The upper branch, or the lake of Lu⯑cerne, is in the form of a croſs; the ſides of which ſtretch from Kuſſnacht to Dallenwal, a ſmall village near Stancz, [129] the capital of the canton of Under⯑walden. It is bounded towards the town of Lucerne (which forms a fine object upon its north-weſtern extremity) by cultivated hills ſloping gradually to the water, contraſted on the oppoſite ſide by an enormous maſs of barren and craggy rocks. Mount Pilate riſes bold⯑ly from the lake, and is perhaps one of the higheſt mountains in Swiſſerland, if eſtimated from its baſe, and not from the level of the ſea. According to ge⯑neral Pfiffer, its elevation above the lake is more than ſix thouſand feet: never⯑theleſs its heighth above the Mediterra⯑nean, is nothing in compariſon with that of the alps we are going to viſit; nor indeed does the ſnow continue all the year upon its ſummit. It is a ſingle inſulated mountain; and is divided at its top into two rugged points, which, when not covered with clouds, form a moſt majeſtic appearance.

Towards the end of this branch, the [130] mountains that border the lake, ap⯑proach, and form an exceeding narrow creek ſcarcely a mile acroſs; ſoon after, the lake widens again, and we entered the ſecond branch, or the lake of Schweitz: on the weſtern ſide the canton of Un⯑derwalden, on the eaſtern that of Schweitz. Here the mountains are more lofty, and infinitely varied: ſome covered to their very ſummits with the moſt lively verdure; others perpendicu⯑lar and craggy; here forming vaſt am⯑phitheatres of wood; there jutting into the water in bold promontories.

On the eaſtern ſide of this branch, is the ſmall village or town of Gerſaw, ſituated at the foot of the Rugi: it is the ſmalleſt republic in Europe. Its territory is about a league in breadth, and two in length; conſiſting partly of a ſmall neck of land at the edge of the lake, and the remainder lying upon the rapid declivity of the Rugi. In the vil⯑lage and ſcattered cottages there may [131] perhaps be about a thouſand inhabitants: they have their general aſſembly of bur⯑geſſes, their Landamman, their council of regency, their courts of juſtice, and their militia. I was told, (though I will not abſolutely anſwer for the truth of it) that there is not a ſingle horſe in the whole territory of the republic; as indeed one might well ſuppoſe: for, the only way of getting to the town is by water, except⯑ing a narrow path down the ſteep ſides of the mountain, which is almoſt im⯑paſſable. This little republic, is under the protection of the four cantons, Lu⯑cerne, Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden; and in caſe of war furniſhes its quota of men. To the ambitious politician, who judges of governments by extent of dominion and power; ſuch a diminutive republic thrown into an obſcure corner, and ſcarcely known out of its own con⯑tracted territory, muſt appear unworthy of notice; but the ſmalleſt ſpot of earth [132] on which civil freedom is cultivated and flouriſhes, cannot fail of being inter⯑eſting to thoſe who know the true value of liberty and independence; and are convinced, that political happineſs does not conſiſt in great riches and extenſive empire.

Towards the end of this branch the lake forms a conſiderable bay; in the midſt of which lies the village of Brun⯑nen, celebrated for the ſigning of the treaty, in 1315, between Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden. From this point we had a glimpſe of Schweitz, the capital burgh of the canton, about two miles from Brunnen: it ſtands far⯑ther within the land, at the bottom of two very high, ſharp, and rugged rocks.

Here we turned ſhort to our right⯑hand and entered the third branch, or the lake of Uri; the ſcenery of which is ſo amazingly grand and ſublime, that the impreſſion it made upon me will never [133] be eraſed from my mind. Imagine to your⯑ſelf a deep and narrow lake about nine miles in length, bordered on both ſides with rocks uncommonly wild and ro⯑mantic, and, for the moſt part, per⯑pendicular; with foreſts of beech and pine growing down their ſides to the very edge of the water: indeed the rocks are ſo entirely ſteep and overhanging, that it was with difficulty we could ob⯑ſerve more than four or five ſpots, where we could have landed. On the right⯑hand, upon our firſt entrance, a detach⯑ed piece of rock, at a ſmall diſtance from the ſhore, engaged our attention. It riſes to about ſixty feet in heighth; is covered with bruſhwood and ſhrubs; and reminded me in ſome degree of thoſe that ſhoot up in the middle of the fall of the Rhine near Schaffhauſen: but here the lake was as ſmooth as chryſtal; and the ſilent, ſolemn gloom which reigned in this place, was not leſs awful and affecting than the tremendous [134] roaring of the cataract in the other. Somewhat farther, upon the higheſt point of the Seeliſberg, we obſerved a ſmall chapel that ſeemed inacceſſible; and below it, the little village of Gruti, near which the three heroes of theſe cantons are ſaid to have met, and to have taken reciprocal oaths of fidelity, when they planned the famous revolu⯑tion^*.

On the oppoſite ſide, but farther on, appears the chapel of William Tell, erected in honour of that hero, and upon the very ſpot where (it is ſaid) he leaped from the boat, in which he was carrying priſoner to Kuſſnacht. It is built upon a rock that juts out into the lake under a hanging wood: a ſituation amid ſcenes ſo ſtrikingly awful, as can⯑not fail of ſtrongly affecting even the moſt dull and torpid imagination! On the inſide of this chapel, the ſeveral ac⯑tions of William Tell are badly painted. While we were viewing them, we ob⯑ſerved [135] the countenances of our water⯑men gliſtened with exultation, and they related to us with much ſpirit and ſenſi⯑bility the cruelties and tyranny of Geſ⯑ler, governor of Uri, and the intrepid behaviour of their glorious deliverer. Indeed I have frequently remarked with pleaſure, the national enthuſiaſm which ſo generally prevails in this country; and have greatly admired the fire and animation with which the people diſ⯑courſe of thoſe famous men among their anceſtors, to whom they are in⯑debted for that happy ſtate of indepen⯑dence which they now enjoy. This laudable ſpirit is continually kept up and encouraged by the number of ſta⯑tues, and other memorials, of the an⯑tient Swiſs heroes, which are ſo com⯑mon in every town and village through⯑out Swiſſerland. Among theſe, Tell is the moſt diſtinguiſhed, and he ſeems to be the peculiar favourite of the common people: the reaſon is obvious; for, his [136] ſtory partakes greatly of the marvel⯑lous.

A man of letters at Berne has written a treatiſe, entitled Fable Danoiſe, in which he calls in queſtion the hiſtory of Wil⯑liam Tell. His arguments in general are by no means concluſive; he mentions, however, two circumſtances, which, if true, are convincing proofs, that much fiction is interwoven with the whole account: for, the author aſſerts that the incident of Tell's ſhooting the apple off the head of his ſon, is not recorded in any of the contemporary hiſtorians, al⯑though they give the minuteſt accounts of the governor's tyranny; and that the firſt writer who takes notice of it, is Petermann Etterlin of Lucerne, who lived in the latter end of the fifteenth century, near two hundred years after the fact is ſuppoſed to have happened. Beſides, a ſtory of the ſame kind is re⯑lated in the Daniſh annals of Saxo Grammaticus, with no other difference [137] than that of names; Herald king of Den⯑mark ſupplying the place of the governor of Uri; and Tocco that of William Tell: and this event, which is ſaid to have hap⯑pened in 965, is attended alſo with near⯑ly the ſame incidents, as thoſe recorded in the Swiſs accounts^*. Nevertheleſs, it is far from being a neceſſary conſe⯑quence, that, becauſe the authenticity of the ſtory concerning the apple is liable to ſome doubts; therefore the whole tradition relating to Tell is fabulous. Neither is it a proof againſt the reality of a fact, that it is not mentioned by any contemporary hiſtorians. The ge⯑neral hiſtory of William Tell is re⯑peatedly celebrated in ſeveral old Ger⯑man ſongs, ſo remarkable for their an⯑tient dialect and ſimplicity, as almoſt [138] to raiſe the deeds they celebrate above all reaſonable ſuſpicion: add to this, the conſtant tradition of the country, to⯑gether with two chapels erected ſome centuries ago, in memory of his ex⯑ploits.

The three cantons were ſo much of⯑fended with the author for throwing any doubt upon the actions of their antient hero, that they preſented a re⯑monſtrance to the ſovereign council of Berne: in conſequence of which, the pamphlet in queſtion was publicly burnt at Uri. In this inſtance their national prejudices (if they really deſerve that name) become, in ſome ſort, me⯑ritorious and reſpectable.

The croſs bow is ſtill much uſed in theſe parts, as I had an opportunity of obſerving upon our landing at Fluellen, where I ſaw ſeveral very young boys, each with a croſs bow in his hand. There happened to be a butt at a ſmall diſtance from the place; and I gave them [139] to underſtand, that thoſe who hit the mark ſhould receive a penny for their dexterity. Upon this intimation, three boys took aim ſucceſſively, two of whom hit the very centre of the butt, and ob⯑tained the prize accordingly: but, the third miſſing, I made him ſhoot till he touched the mark; which, after two or three trials, he at length performed.

From Fluellen we walked to Altdorf, the capital burgh of the canton of Uri, ſituated in a narrow vale almoſt intirely ſurrounded by ſtupendous mountains. It contains ſeveral neat houſes; the tops whereof are covered with large de⯑tached ſtones, placed there in order to prevent the roofs being carried away by thoſe violent ſtorms, that frequently ruſh down from the neighbouring moun⯑tains into this valley.

When the greateſt part of Helvetia was ſubject to the empire; the inhabi⯑tants of Uri, Schweitz, and Under⯑walden, had long enjoyed the moſt conſi⯑derable [140] privileges, particularly the right of being governed by their own magiſ⯑trates: the clergy and many of the nobles, indeed, had fiefs and ſubjects in thoſe reſpective territories; but the bulk of the people formed ſeveral commu⯑nities almoſt totally independent. Dur⯑ing the twelfth century, various diſputes which theſe three cantons had with the emperors, united them more firmly than ever; and they were accuſtomed every ten years to renew formally their al⯑liance with each other. Such was their ſituation at the death of Frederic II. in 1250. From this period, or ſoon afterwards, commences the interregnum in the empire: during which time of anarchy and confuſion, the nobles and biſhops endeavouring to extend their power, and to encroach upon the pri⯑vileges of the people; Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden, put themſelves under the protection of Rhodolph of Habſ⯑bourg, who, in 1270, being choſen [141] emperor, terminated the interregnum. Rhodolph had a revenue aſſigned to him by theſe cantons; and he appointed a governor, who had cognizance in all criminal cauſes: the rights, however, and privileges of the people were ex⯑preſsly reſerved.

Rhodolph, ſome time after his ac⯑ceſſion to the throne of the empire, liſtened to the ambitious ſchemes of his ſon Albert duke of Auſtria, who was deſirous to form Helvetia into a dutchy. For this purpoſe the emperor purchaſed the domains of ſeveral abbeys, and other conſiderable fiefs in Swiſſerland, as well in the canton of Schweitz as in the neighbouring territories. The great in⯑creaſe of power, which the emperor gained by this acquiſition, induced the three cantons to renew their alliance, and to demand a confirmation of their privileges: and their demands were granted. Upon the death of Rhodolph, Adolphus of Naſſau ſucceeded him, from [142] whom they obtained the ſame confir⯑mation. But when Albert was after⯑wards choſen emperor, he refuſed to ratify it: and, in order totally to ſub⯑due the people, he placed over them two governors, who were guilty of many flagitious acts of tyranny and oppreſ⯑ſion.

Under theſe circumſtances Werner de Staffach of Schweitz, Walther Furſt of Uri, and Arnold de Melchtall of Under⯑walden, planned the famous revolution, which took place January 13, 1308, and reſtored liberty to the three cantons. Albert, while he was preparing to attack them, was ^* aſſaſſinated by his nephew John of Habſbourg. In 1315, Leo⯑pold [143] duke of Auſtria marched againſt the confederate cantons with an army of [144] twenty thouſand men; and, endeavour⯑ing to force his way into the canton of [145] Schweitz at the ſtreights of Morgarten, received a total defeat from thirteen [146] hundred Swiſs, who were poſted upon the mountains. If we may believe contemporary hiſtorians, the confederate [147] troops loſt but fourteen men in this memorable engagement, which inſured their independence for ever. This ſame year the three cantons entered into a perpetual alliance, which was ratified at Brunnen: and this alliance is the grand foundation of the Helvetic con⯑federacy. Such were the feeble begin⯑nings of a league, which has ſince be⯑come ſo formidable by the acceſſion of ten more cantons, and by the additional ſtrength of its numerous allies: and it is remarkable, that Swiſſerland is the only country which, on the one ſide, has confined the limits of the German empire; and, on the other, has ſet bounds to the French monarchy, which it has never dared to tranſgreſs.

Schweitzerland, or, as we term it, Swiſſerland, originally comprehended only the three cantons of Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden, but that name was af⯑terwards extended to all Helvetia. It deri⯑ved that appellation either from the can⯑ton [148] of Schweitz, as having particularly diſtinguiſhed itſelf in the revolution of 1308, and alſo at the battle of Morgar⯑ten; or from the Auſtrians calling all thoſe who inhabited theſe mountainous parts, by the general denomination of Schweitzers.

Swiſſerland was the rock which the houſe of Auſtria ſplit upon, during more than a century. Blinded with reſent⯑ment againſt their former ſubjects, and anxious to recover their loſt domains in theſe parts; the ſeveral dukes led on in perſon conſiderable armies to ſubdue a nation, whoſe ſpirit was unconquera⯑ble; and to get poſſeſſion of a country, which, from its ſituation, was eaſily defended by an handful of men againſt the moſt numerous troops. Within the period above mentioned, Auſtria neglected ſeveral opportunities of ag⯑grandizing herſelf in other parts; and, ſlighting what was more feaſible, bent her whole efforts to obtain what in its [149] very nature was unattainable. The conſequence of this miſtaken policy, was, a continued ſucceſſion of defeats, at⯑tended with a prodigious expence, and the loſs of their braveſt troops: until at length, convinced of their error, they totally relinquiſhed an attempt, which had coſt them ſo much fruitleſs blood and treaſure. But although ſeveral em⯑perors of that houſe occaſionally made alliances with the Swiſs cantons; yet it was not till the treaty of Weſtphalia that their independence was fully and finally acknowledged by Ferdinand III. and the whole empire.

The government of theſe three can⯑tons is entirely democratical, and near⯑ly the ſame. The ſupreme power re⯑ſides in the people at large, who are, in each of theſe cantons, divided into ſeveral communities, from which are choſen equally the councils of regency. In the general aſſembly the Landam⯑man, and the principal magiſtrates, are [150] elected: and every burgher, at the age of fourteen in the canton of Uri; and of fifteen in Schweitz and Underwalden, has a right to vote. The councils of regency of Uri and Schweitz conſiſt each of ſixty members, and reſide at the capital burghs. In this council the executive power is veſted, and from this body the principal magiſtrates are choſen. Underwalden is divided into the inferior and ſuperior valley; and each of theſe diviſions has its own pe⯑culiar government and adminiſtration. Formerly the whole canton was under the ſame adminiſtration; but the two diſtricts ſeparated upon ſome diſpute, and have ſince formed two diſtinct go⯑vernments; which have each their ge⯑neral aſſembly, their Landamman, and their council of regency: but for the ma⯑nagement of external affairs, there is a joint council formed of the two diviſions.

Theſe three cantons contain about eighty thouſand ſouls, and in caſe of [151] neceſſity could furniſh above twenty thou⯑ſand militia. All the Catholic cantons enjoy conſiderable ſubſidies from France. Every burgher, of the age of fourteen, receives ſix livres (five ſhillings of our money) annually; the Landamman and the magiſtrates more in proportion. The canton of Schweitz has had for ſome time a quarrel with France; and accordingly withdrew its troops from that ſervice: but this year the matter has been accommodated; and the king pays every male child of a burgher, four livres annually, reckoning from the time of his birth. I cannot help thinking, that the acceptance of theſe ſubſidies derogates in ſome meaſure from that ſpirit of abſolute indepen⯑dence, which the cantons of Swiſſer⯑land profeſs; and that it would be far more honourable to enter into an al⯑liance with France upon terms of the moſt perfect equality, than to receive from that kingdom paltry ſubſidies, [152] which give an air of venality to their ſeveral treaties.

The ſame kind of ſoil, and the ſame ſort of productions, are common to the three cantons: the whole country being rugged and mountainous, conſiſts chiefly of excellent paſture, but raiſes little corn, and has no vines. One cannot but obſerve with aſtoniſhment to what a degree of fertility they have improved a land, naturally the moſt barren, and for which they fought with as much zeal and intrepidity, as if they had been contending for the richeſt plains of Sicily or Aſia Minor. In theſe little democratical ſtates ſumptuary laws are not neceſſary; for, they ſcarcely know, even in idea, what luxury is. Such indeed is the purity, or (as ſome perhaps would call it) the auſterity of morals, which ſtill prevails among theſe people, as cannot eaſily be imagined by the inhabitants of great and opulent cities: and I cannot reflect on that af⯑fectionate [153] patriotiſm which ſo ſtrongly attaches them to their country, with⯑out calling to mind that beautiful de⯑ſcription of the Swiſs peaſant, in Gold⯑ſmith's Traveller:

Every ſtep we now advance is tread⯑ing, as it were, upon ſacred ground; as monuments continually occur of thoſe memorable battles, by which the Swiſs reſcued themſelves from oppreſſion, and ſecured the enjoyment of their invalu⯑able freedom. I am now indeed in the very center of civil liberty; would I could add of religious too! but the church of Rome, excluſively, is eſtab⯑liſhed here; and the people are in ge⯑neral bigotted, ſuperſtitious, and into⯑lerant. It muſt be acknowledged, how⯑ever, [154] that this intolerant ſpirit is not wholly confined to the Catholic can⯑tons; for, in thoſe where the Proteſtants prevail, Calviniſm is alone admitted: and thus a nation, who prides her⯑ſelf upon her freedom, denies the free exerciſe of religion to every other ſect except that which predominates. Is not this ſtriking at the firſt principle, and moſt valuable privilege, of genuine li⯑berty?

Long as my letter already is, I can⯑not forbear mentioning, before I con⯑clude it, a peculiar cuſtom obſerved in ſome of theſe democratical ſtates: every perſon who is choſen for a bailliage, or any office in the leaſt lucrative, is obliged to pay a certain ſtipulated ſum into the public fund. This practice is attended with one ill conſequence at leaſt; as the ſucceſsful candidate is in ſome mea⯑ſure authoriſed to ſtretch his preroga⯑tives, in order to make the moſt of the profits of his charge. Accordingly [155] it is a general remark, that in the com⯑mon bailliages the bailiffs appointed by the popular cantons are more apt to be guilty of exactions than thoſe of the ariſtocratical.

LETTER XII.

SWISSERLAND is a moſt delight⯑ful country, and merits the parti⯑cular obſervation of the traveller, as well for the diverſity of the ſeveral go⯑vernments, as for the wonderful beau⯑ties of nature: but the impoſitions of the innkeepers, the difficulty of procur⯑ing horſes, and the exorbitant price one is obliged to pay for the hire of them, are the taxes one muſt inevitably be ſubject to, for the enjoyment of theſe its delights. Theſe little inconvenien⯑ces [156] however ſhould be borne with pa⯑tience and good-humour; and I will not trouble you with any ſpienetic com⯑plaints of thoſe unpleaſant circumſtances which all travellers muſt neceſſarily meet with.

We quitted Altdorf after dinner, hav⯑ing with difficulty hired two horſes, be⯑ſides one for the baggage; we procured, however, another upon the road: ſo that what with riding and tying we got on very well. About nine miles from Altdorf, we began aſcending. The road winds continually along the ſteep ſides of the mountains; and the Reuſs in many places entirely fills up the bottom of the valley, which is very narrow: that river ſometimes appeared ſeveral hundred yards below us; here ruſhing a conſiderable way through a foreſt of pines; there falling down in caſcades, and loſing itſelf in the valley. We paſſed it ſeveral times over bridges of a ſingle arch, and beheld it tumbling under our [157] feet in channels which it had forced through the ſolid rock; innumerable torrents roaring down the ſides of the mountains; which were ſometimes bare, ſometimes finely wooded, with here and there ſome fantaſtic beeches hanging on the ſides of the precipice, and half ob⯑ſcuring the river from our view. The darkneſs and ſolitude of the foreſts; the occaſional livelineſs and variety of the verdure; immenſe fragments of rock blended with enormous maſſes of ice, that had tumbled from the mountains above; rocks of an aſtoniſhing heighth piled up⯑on one another, and ſhutting in the vale;—ſuch are the ſublime and mag⯑nificent ſcenes with which this romantic country abounds, and which enchanted us beyond expreſſion.

We ſet out this morning early from Waſen, a ſmall village where we paſſed the night; and continued advancing for ſome way on a rugged aſcent, through the ſame wild and beautiful tract of [158] country, which I have juſt mentioned. We could ſcarce walk an hundred yards without croſſing ſome of thoſe torrents, that precipitated with violence from the tops of the mountains in different forms; the water clearer than chryſtal. The road, exceedingly ſteep and craggy, is chiefly paved: in many places it is car⯑ried upon arches under a high moun⯑tain, and overhangs a deep precipice; the river roaring and foaming below. This being one of the great paſſages into Italy, we met a conſiderable number of pack-horſes laden with merchandiſe: and as the road in particular parts is very narrow, it required ſome dexterity in the horſes to paſs one another without joſt⯑ling. Theſe roads, hanging as they do over the precipice, cannot fail of in⯑ſpiring terror to thoſe travellers, who are unaccuſtomed to them; and more par⯑ticularly as the mules and horſes have a ſingular method of going on. They do not keep in the middle of the track, [159] but continue croſſing from the ſide of the mountain towards the edge of the precipice, then turn aſlant abruptly; and thus form, if I may ſo expreſs my⯑ſelf, a conſtant zig-zag.

Thus far the valley of St. Gothard appeared to be well peopled; and we paſſed through ſeveral villages ſituated towards the bottom and leſs narrow part of the valley: the ſides of the mountains were occaſionally ſtrewed thick with cottages; covered with fo⯑reſts; or enriched with paſtures. Still continuing to aſcend, the country a lit⯑tle beyond Waſen ſuddenly changed. It now became more wild and perfectly deſert: there were no traces of any trees, except here and there a ſtubbed pine; the rocks were more bare, craggy, and impending; not the leaſt ſign of any habitation; and ſcarce a blade of graſs to be ſeen. We then came to a bridge thrown acroſs a very deep chaſm over the Reuſs, which here forms a [160] conſiderable cataract down the ſhagged ſides of the mountain, and over im⯑menſe fragments of rock which it has undermined in its courſe. This bridge is called Teufels-bruck, or the devil's bridge; the common people always at⯑tributing works of any difficulty to the devil. As we ſtood upon the bridge admiring the cataract, we were covered with a kind of drizzling rain; the river throwing up the ſpray to a conſiderable heighth. Theſe are ſublime ſcenes of horror, of which thoſe who have not been ſpectators, can form no idea: nei⯑ther the powers of painting nor poe⯑try can give an adequate image of them.

Not far from this wonderful land⯑ſcape (the country ſtill continuing ſoli⯑tary and deſolate) the road led us into a ſubterraneous paſſage, of about eighty paces in length, cut through a rock of granite, which opened at the oppo⯑ſite entrance into the ſerene and culti⯑vated [161] valley of Urſeren: the objects that preſented themſelves to us were, a village backed by an high mountain, on the ſides of which was a wood of pines; peaſants at work in the fields; cattle feeding in the meadows; and the river, which, when we laſt ſaw it, loudly daſhed over rude fragments of rock in a continual cataract, now flowed ſilently and ſmoothly along; while the ſun, which had been hidden from us when we were in the deep valley, here ſhone forth in its full ſplendor. In general we had hi⯑therto always found a gradual advance from extreme wildneſs to high cultiva⯑tion; but in the preſent inſtance, the change was ſo abrupt and inſtantaneous, that it ſeemed like a ſudden enchant⯑ment.

In this valley are four villages, Urſe⯑ren, Hopital, Realp, and Zundorf; forming a ſmall republic under the pro⯑tection of the canton of Uri. The ter⯑ritory of this little commonwealth is [162] about nine miles in length and two in breadth, and contains thirteen hundred ſouls. The people elect in their gene⯑ral aſſembly, their Talamman or chief, as alſo ſome other magiſtrates: and there is a permanent council of fifteen mem⯑bers, who meet alternately in the differ⯑ent diſtricts. The inhabitants of this valley enjoy very great privileges; but the republic is not abſolutely indepen⯑dent: for in civil cauſes an appeal lies from their courts of juſtice to Altdorf; and in criminal ones, although the trial is in the courts of the valley, and before the judges of the country; yet two deputies from the government of Uri are preſent at the deciſion, and deliver in to the judges the opinion of the council of Altdorf.

Notwithſtanding the conſiderable ele⯑vation of this valley, and the coldneſs of the air even at this ſeaſon of the year, it produces excellent paſture and ſome barley. The only wood they [163] have is the ſmall plantation of pines I juſt now mentioned, riſing behind the village of Urſeren, and which is preſerved with uncommon care and re⯑verence: in ſome parts indeed, along the banks of the Reuſs, there is here and there a ſmall quantity of bruſh-wood and ſtubbed willows; but theſe do not ſupply the inhabitants with a thou⯑ſandth part of the fuel neceſſary for conſumption in this climate. In the ad⯑jacent country there are ſeveral mines of chryſtal; of which a conſiderable quan⯑tity is exported to Milan, as well from hence as from Altdorf. The language of the country ſtill continues a kind of Swiſs-German, but almoſt every perſon ſpeaks Italian.

The valley of Urſeren is a ſmall plain entirely ſurrounded on all ſides by high and barren rocks, the tops whereof are covered with ſnow. This plain is com⯑monly ſaid to form the baſe of the mountain of St. Gothard; though the [164] latter is more properly an enormous mountain, piled upon the ſhoulders of other mountains which riſe rapidly from the lake of Lucerne. Near the mid⯑dle of this beautiful plain we turned to the left, and again entered a valley filled with the ruins of broken moun⯑tains; the Reuſs burſting through it with a moſt rapid and vehement tor⯑rent; on each ſide, immenſe ſhattered blocks of granite, of a beautiful greyiſh colour (and of which the ſummits of theſe alps are compoſed) confuſedly piled together. It is about three leagues from Urſeren to this place; and the aſcent all the way as ſteep as a horſe can well mount: but the road, conſider⯑ing the ruggedneſs of the rocks, is not ſo incommodious as one might expect.

We are now lodged at a houſe in⯑habited by two Italian friars from the convent of Capuchins at Milan; who receive all ſtrangers that paſs through theſe inhoſpitable regions; where there [165] is no other houſe for a conſiderable way. One of the friars is abſent, ſo that I am in poſſeſſion of his bedchamber: it is a ſnug little room, where a man may ſleep very well without being an an⯑chorite; and which, after the fatigues of our journey, I enjoy with a ſatisfac⯑tion much too ſenſible to envy the lux⯑ury of a palace. Our hoſt has juſt given us a dinner, conſiſting of delicious trout, (with which ſome of the lakes and the neighbouring torrents abound) eggs and milk, together with a deſert compoſed of excellent butter and cheeſe; both which were made in this dreary ſpot; the paſ⯑ture being peculiarly exquiſite.

Upon our arrival we were rejoiced to find a good fire; the weather being ſo exceedingly cold, that I, who was only clad in a thin camlet coat, came into the convent half frozen. It is ſingular to find, at the diſtance of only a day's journey, the climate ſo different from what it was at Altdorf: the air is ab⯑ſolutely [166] in a freezing ſtate; and I juſt now paſſed by a boy at work, who was blowing his fingers to warm them. If the cold be ſuch in the midſt of ſum⯑mer, how intolerably piercing muſt it prove in December? The ſnow begins to fall here the latter end of September; and the lakes about this ſpot are frozen during nine months in the year.

I am juſt returned from viſiting the ſources of the Teſin and the Reuſs; which riſe within two miles of each other. The former, in the ſtate I ſaw it, flowed from under a maſs of ice; but the friar who accompanied us, told me, that, when the ice is melted, it is ſeen burſting from the rock: from thence it takes its courſe towards the ſouth; is joined in its paſſage by ſeveral torrents; traverſes the lake of Locarno, and part of the Milaneſe, and at length unites with the Po. The latter river iſſues from the lake Loacendro, which is about two miles in circumference; flows towards [167] the north into the lake of Lucerne, and from thence throws itſelf into the Aar and the Rhine. It was from the dif⯑ferent courſes of theſe two rivers, that Mr. de Boufflers ſaid, that upon the top of the St. Gothard, a man might ſpit into the Ocean and the Mediterra⯑nean. Theſe lakes (of which kind there are a conſiderable number in theſe parts) are equally deep in winter and ſummer, and always preſerve the ſame level. They are probably formed by the melting of the ſnows, with which the circumjacent mountains are covered; although in ſe⯑veral there is no appearance of their being ſupplied by any torrent. For, the ſnows thus melted, force themſelves channels in the rocks; and, flowing through ſubterra⯑neous paſſages, iſſue out at ſome diſtance: and by this means the true ſources of theſe great bodies of water lie conceal⯑ed. Within a day's journey is the ſource of the Rhine in the Griſons; and about the diſtance of three leagues, that of the [168] Rhone in the Furca: which mountain we ſhall paſs to-morrow. We are ſtill ſurrounded by very high, rugged rocks, and inacceſſible glaciers; ſo that our view is much confined: and though I walked above a league towards Italy, in hopes of having an extenſive proſpect of part of that delightful country, yet I could ſee nothing but rocks, precipices, and torrents.

I am at this inſtant near ^* ſeven thouſand feet perpendicular above the level of the ſea: no inconſiderable heighth, moſt certainly. Nevertheleſs, if I were to give credit to thoſe, who aſſert, that this mountain is the higheſt point of Europe, I ſhould raiſe myſelf in idea above twice as high. But, as I have reaſon to think, that this opinion is founded upon falſe calculations; I will not flatter myſelf, that I am more exalted [169] above the reſt of mankind than I really am. Mikeli, who meaſured the principal mountains of Swiſſerland (but who is very inaccurate in his calculations) conſi⯑ders this as the higheſt of all; and he eſtimates its elevation above the ſea as equal to 17,600 feet. But the truth is, St. Gothard, ſo far from being of that elevation, is by no means the higheſt mountain of Swiſſerland; and there is probably not one mountain, either in Europe, Aſia, or Africa, of that heighth. According to general Pfiffer, the moſt elevated part of the St. Gothard riſes above the ſea 9,075 feet: an heighth conſiderably leſs than that of Aetna and of Teneriff; and ſtill more inferior to that of ſeveral in this great chain of alps, which ſeparate Italy from Swiſſerland.

LETTER XIII.

I Arrived here late yeſterday evening; and ſo fatigued that I could not have written a line for any conſideration whatſoever: but I am this morning quite refreſhed with a comfortable ſleep, and in ſpirits to continue my journal. I took leave of our hoſt of St. Gothard, after having wiſhed him a plea⯑ſant winter in that dreary ſituation; and walked on alone, for about two leagues, down the vale of St. Gothard. Indeed I frequently quit my company, and either go on before, or ſtay behind, that I may enjoy uninterrupted, and with a ſort of melancholy pleaſure, theſe ſublime exhibitions of Nature in her moſt awful and tremendous forms. I entered the valley of Urſeren at Hopi⯑tal; and was again ſtruck with the ſtrong contraſt between that cultivated [171] vale and the deſolate country I had juſt quitted. We paſſed through the ſmall village of Zundorf; and ſtopt at that of Realp, to get ſome refreſhment, and bait our horſes. From thence we ſoon arrived at the extremity of the valley of Urſeren; where we began aſcending a path ſo narrow, ſteep, and rugged, that I could not forbear ſuſpecting we had miſſed our way, as it ſeemed almoſt impracticable for horſes: upon their arrival however I mounted, being a lit⯑tle fatigued with my walk from St. Gothard to Realp. It was a ſingle path, up a ſteep mountain, where an horſe, with ſome dexterity, could juſt put one leg before the other: and this path ſometimes lay upon the edge of a precipice, very craggy and ſtony; where, if my ſteed had happened to ſtumble, we muſt both inevitably have periſhed. But as I knew he had no more fancy than myſelf to take a roll down the precipice, I had nothing to do but to [172] truſt entirely to his diſcretion, fling the bridle upon his mane, and let him pick out his own road. Nor had I any rea⯑ſon to repent of my confidence: for, in the bad and dangerous parts of the roads, he never once tripped; where it was ſmoother and ſafer indeed, he knew he had a licence to be more care⯑leſs.

We came at length to a torrent, which we paſſed by means of a plank that was thrown acroſs, after having got our horſes over with ſome difficulty: a little way farther we arrived at another, deeper and more violent than the former, over which there was no bridge; not the leaſt appearance of any track on the other ſide; a conſiderable diſtance from any habitation; and our guide unac⯑quainted with the road. After ſome obſervation however we diſcovered, that the mountain had lately fallen down, and had carried away the path; leaving only a very faint narrow track, that was [173] broken off on the ſide of the precipice: along which my companions ſcrambled as well as they could upon their hands and knees. While I was croſſing on horſe⯑back the torrent (which was filled with ſhattered fragments of rock) I heard a ſcream; and turning round, ſaw one of our ſervants ſeized with a panic on the very edge of the precipice, and vehemently ex⯑claiming, that he could neither get back⯑wards or forwards. Nevertheleſs, with ſome aſſiſtance, he got ſafe over; de⯑claring, at the ſame time, that he would take care never to put himſelf again in a ſimilar ſituation. We now regained a kind of path, but ſo extremely difficult and dangerous, that we thought it moſt prudent to diſmount, and leave the horſes to make their way as well as they could. With much difficulty, and af⯑ter having croſſed ſeveral large drifts of ice and ſnow, the torrents at the ſame time rumbling under our feet; we reached, by a very ſteep aſcent, the [174] ſummit of the valley. A number of rugged and forked rocks, piled one above another, have occaſioned, it is ſaid, this chain to be called the Mount Furca. The country immediately around us was more dreary and deſolate than any we had yet ſeen, not excepting even the valley of St. Gothard; all vege⯑tation ſeemed to have ceaſed: lower down, the mountains were covered with herbage and ſweet-ſcented flowers; near us, but higher, on the left, lay a large body of ice, from which iſſued a torrent (probably one of the firſt ſources of the Rhone) ruſhing towards the Vallais. In a word, the ſeveral majeſtic objects that preſented themſelves to our view, formed a ſcene inconceivably aſto⯑niſhing and ſublime.

From hence we deſcended, ſcram⯑bling down broken rocks and craggy precipices for a conſiderable way. By this time I was ſufficiently tired, to be glad to ſit down, and take ſome refreſh⯑ment, [175] conſiſting of bread, cheeſe, and hard eggs; the only proviſion we could procure at Realp. We were ſeated by a ſtream of clear water gliding along the ſide of the mountain; which indeed was ſo exceedingly ſteep, that our hum⯑ble repaſt would have rolled away from us if it not had been well ſupported. In full view before us was the glacier of the Furca; an immenſe maſs of ice, ex⯑tending in the form of an amphitheatre between two rocks, more ſhagged, if poſſible, than any of the neighbouring mountains: it ſtretches from their feet, fills up the chaſm between them, and reaches almoſt even with their ſummits. The ſun ſhone directly upon it, and made it gliſten like chryſtal; while the blue tints, that were occaſionally diſ⯑perſed over the ice, appeared inexpreſ⯑ſibly beautiful. The ice ſeemed to break in ſeveral parts, as we heard ſome loud and deep cracks; the torrent of the Rhone at the ſame time roaring beneath. [176] That river is chiefly formed by this gla⯑cier: the ſmall torrent, I mentioned above, which burſts out from the up⯑per body of ice, is joined by ſeveral others; then loſes itſelf under the vaſt arch of ice that forms the bottom of the glacier of the Furca; iſſues from thence conſiderably augmented, and is the great and principal ſource from whence this famous river takes its riſe. The range of mountains on which we were ſitting, were ſpread over with bruſh-wood and herbage; and ſome cat⯑tle were feeding along the heighths: a fine contraſt to the ſterility of the oppoſite chain; which appeared for ſome extent nothing but bare and rugged rock, except where it was covered with ice and frozen ſnow.

After we had finiſhed our banquet, and repoſed ourſelves for a ſhort time, con⯑templating the ſingularity of the ſcene before us; we deſcended cloſe to the bottom of the glacier, where we ad⯑mired [177] the Rhone breaking forth with violence from the bed of ice, near the tre⯑mendous fragments of a fallen rock. We now followed the courſe of that river, and proceeded down a mountain ſo ex⯑ceedingly ſteep, that the ſeveral parts of the road (which was there paved) winding along its ſides, were frequently parallel to each other. The ſcenery of the vale, which we now entered, was of the ſame kind, but more ſublime, if poſſible, than that of St. Gothard; the Rhone foaming along with amazing rapidity, as it falls in a continual cataract at the foot of ſome irregular alps of an im⯑meaſurable heighth. Indeed this cataract is the moſt conſiderable of any we have yet ſeen, except that of Schaffhauſen. We travelled through this vale above two leagues, perpetually aſcending or deſcending the rugged ſides of rocks; one moment cloſe to the river, and the next ſome hundred yards above it. The grandeur of theſe ſcenes con⯑tinued [178] with infinite variety for a conſi⯑derable way; and (which added greatly to the magnificence and livelineſs of the landſcape) I counted, in leſs than a quarter of a mile, twenty torrents at leaſt, which we croſſed. At firſt the rocks were either bare, or ſtudded here and there with ſome ſtraggling pines; but as we advanced, they be⯑came more and more cloathed with wood and rich verdure: ſtill no traces of any habitation; and we had now gone at leaſt fifteen miles, from our firſt quitting the valley of Urſeren, without having ſeen even a ſhed. I was here ſo ſtruck with the beauty of the foreſts through which we paſſed, and the luxuriance of the paſture, that I could not help expreſſing my aſtoniſhment that I ſaw no appear⯑ance of any habitation in theſe delightful ſpots. I had ſcarce made the remark, when four or five hamlets, ſituated on the other ſide of the Rhone, upon a beautiful declivity, announced our ap⯑proach [179] to the Vallais. Not long after⯑wards, we unexpectedly came to an open⯑ing which gave us an extenſive view of that rich and fertile country, with ſeveral villages here and there diſperſed. In this very ſpot ſome peaſant, either by a lucky hit of mere chance, or the happy choice of inſtinctive taſte, has built his cottage. Here we quitted the bad road, and de⯑ſcended into the Vallais.

We had propoſed paſſing the night at Oberwald; and I was very glad to arrive there, after the fatigues of the day: but, upon enquiry, we found it could ſupply us with no refreſhment. The maſter of a little hovel, which was called an inn, pointed to a large cheeſe, and told us That was all the proviſion he had; it was his bread, his fiſh, and his meat. Meeting with no better re⯑ception at Obergeſtlen, we continued on to Munſter; where we did not arrive till late: here we found however an excellent inn for this country, which [180] afforded us ſome good bread, and even ſome meat; but what was far more comfortable to me, a quiet room, and a clean bed.

As we are going to quit this country immediately, and propoſe returning into it by the Gemmi; I will defer giving you any account of the government until I ſhall be better informed.

LETTER XIV.

THE Vallaiſans are remarkably attached to their liberty. Upon our quitting Munſter, this morning, we walked on, and joined company with a peaſant, with whom we had a long converſation. The countryman aſked us how we liked the country; and, pointing to the mountains, ſaid: ‘"Theſe [181] are our bulwarks, and they are ſtrong ones too; Conſtantinople is not ſo ſtrongly fortified."’ This upper part of the Vallais, I ſhould imagine, is not much frequented by travellers, if we may judge from the curioſity of the people, who all came out to gaze upon us; and when they diſcovered that we were Engliſhmen, they obſerved us with ſtill more attention. But what particularly ſurpriſed us was, that the peaſant above-mentioned, aſked us, ‘"How our war with the Americans went on?"’ It ſeemed indeed ſomewhat extraordinary, that a common peaſant of the Vallais, ſhould know there was ſuch a place as Conſtantinople; but it was more ſurpriſing ſtill, that he ſhould ever have heard of the preſent conteſt between Great Britain and her American Colonies.

After returning about a league the ſame way we came yeſterday, through this fertile and well-cultivated country; [182] we left the plain, and aſcended the Grimſel: one of thoſe alps which ſeparate the Vallais from the canton of Berne. We were near four hours climbing up a ſteep and craggy road to the ſummit; and we ſhould have conſidered the at⯑tempt to gain it as ſcarcely poſſible to ſucceed, had we not been encouraged by the experience of yeſterday. We croſſed the ſeveral ſhades of vegetation: in the valley, and the lower parts of the mountain, corn and rich meadows; then foreſts of larch and pine; next, ſhort graſs, together with ſeveral ſpecies of herbs, that afford exquiſite paſture to the cattle; to theſe ſucceeded the various tribe of moſſes; and then bare rock and ſnow. It would be curious to conſtruct, or at leaſt to imagine, a ſcale of vegetation, according to the idea of a French writer, whoſe name I have forgotten. It would appear from thence, that exceſſive cold and exceſſive heat are equally pernicious. The tops of theſe [183] high mountains are barren, and pro⯑duce no plants; and at certain heighths nothing but moſſes will vegetate: the ſame is obſerved in climates where the heat is intolerable; as no other vege⯑table productions are ſeen in the burn⯑ing ſands of Africa. The moſſes then, which ſupport the cold better than other plants, would form the firſt de⯑gree of a ſcale adjuſted to determine how far vegetation accords with the temperature of the atmoſphere. The ſame family of plants, as it ſupports alſo the heat much better than any other, would occupy the laſt degree in the ſcale above-mentioned. Thus the two extremes touch one another ſur⯑priſingly.

From the top of the Grimſel we de⯑ſcended about two miles, and arrived at a ſmall plain or hollow in the midſt of the mountains; containing one ſoli⯑tary hovel: and from this hovel I am now writing to you. It made ſo bad [184] an appearance at firſt ſight, that we concluded we ſhould get nothing to eat: we were, however, very agreeably diſappointed; as we have found in this deſart ſpot all the accommodations we could wiſh for, except beds; and theſe are the leſs neceſſary, after the ſound ſleep we had laſt night. Not to mention excellent cheeſe, butter, and milk (our ordinary fare) we got ſome good wine, a ſmall portion of kid, and a boiled marmote, which we have juſt devoured; although at another time we ſhould have revolted at the very idea. The landlord is ſtationed in this for⯑lorn region by the canton of Berne, and he reſides in it about four months; the roads being almoſt impaſſable the remaining eight: his buſineſs is to re⯑ceive all travellers; but upon condi⯑tion, however, that they pay for their accommodations. When he quits the place, he leaves a certain quantity of cheeſe, hard bread, ſalted proviſion, and [185] fuel, in caſe any unfortunate wanderer ſhould happen to come this way, when the winter has ſet in: and we obſerved long poles fixed on both ſides of the track, at ſmall diſtances from each other, in order to point out the path to paſſengers, who may chance to paſs this mountain, after the ſnows have begun to fall. Near the houſe, upon the top of a ſmall rock, our hoſt has made a kind of little garden, by bringing ſome earth from the neighbouring paſtures: and this ſmall bit of ground ſupplies him tolerably well with turnips, cab⯑bages, and ſome other vegetables; al⯑though, on account of the heighth of the circumjacent mountains, it does not long enjoy the warmth of the ſun.

Numerous herds of goats are kept, during the ſummer months, upon theſe mountains: they are let out every morning to feed upon the rich paſ⯑tures; and return every evening be⯑fore ſun-ſet to be milked and houſed. [186] It was a pleaſing ſight to obſerve them all marching homeward in the ſame herd; and following one another down the broken precipices, and along the rugged ſides of the rocks: their milk is delicious.

This hovel (beſides the ſtore-houſes for the cheeſes, of which they make here a large quantity, and of a moſt excellent ſort) contains only a ſmall kitchen, and one room, in which we are now ſitting. We occupy nearly one ſide of it; the other is taken up by our ſervants, the landlord and his wife, and half a dozen honeſt labourers: the latter are eating their homely ſupper, with all the reliſh that well-earned hunger can give; and are enjoying a ſhort reſpite from their toil, with that noiſy mirth which characteriſes the gaiety of this claſs of people.

The ſources of the river Aar are in theſe mountains. Near our hovel are two lakes; and farther on a larger [187] one: from each of theſe flow caſcades, that fall into the Aar, which rolls down in an impetuous torrent from the neigh⯑bouring glaciers. I walked by the ſide of that river while dinner was getting ready, ſearching for chryſtals; which are very common in theſe parts: we picked up pieces of divers colours, white, black, yellow, and green. Not far from hence are ſeveral very curious mines of chryſtal: I regretted much that I had not time to viſit them. Theſe moun⯑tains certainly abound alſo in rich veins of gold, and other metals; a con⯑ſiderable quantity of gold-duſt being found in the bed of the Aar, and in the various torrents. I can conceive nothing more fatal to the intereſts of Swiſſerland, nor more repugnant to the liberties of the people, than to have theſe mines of gold or ſilver traced and opened. A ſudden overflow of riches would effectually change and corrupt their manners: and it is an inconteſ⯑table [188] truth, that the real power of a country, not ambitious of making con⯑queſts, is derived leſs from the wealth than from the induſtry of its ſubjects; the happineſs of a people, as well as of an individual, conſiſting in being contented.

What a chaos of mountains are here heaped upon one another! a dreary, deſolate, but ſublime appearance: it looks like the ruins and wreck of a world.

LETTER XV.

I Found the cold upon the Grimſel more piercing than I had experi⯑enced upon the top of St. Gothard; and laſt night I ſuffered ſo much from it, as ſcarcely to ſleep one minute. But then circumſtances were ſomewhat different [189] in the two lodgings: for at the Capu⯑chin's I had a comfortable bed; where⯑as laſt night I lay in the hay-loft, and could not get any covering: I declare my blood has hardly yet recovered its circulation. Take notice, this is the 12th of Auguſt.

We are now in the diſtrict of Haſli, which makes a part of the canton of Berne: it is encloſed on all ſides by the mountains Grimſel, Wetterhorn, Shereckhorn, Brunig, &c. the higheſt alps of Swiſſerland; and of theſe the Shereckhorn is the moſt elevated. We paſſed through an uninterrupted chain of alps, following the courſe of the Aar: all around us, for ſome way, was wild, and uninhabitable. The whole ſurface of what little vale there was between the ranges of mountains, was ſtrewed thick with vaſt fragments of rock; while thoſe, which ſtill hung on the ſides of the mountains, ſeemed threatning to tumble upon our heads; [190] the river, the whole way, thundering along in a continual fall. This valley exhibits the ſame kind of ſcenes we have been long accuſtomed to; except that the Aar ruſhes with more impetuous rage even than the Rhone or the Reuſs; and is frequently ſo ſwelled with the torrents it receives in its courſe, as to ravage all the adjacent country: we ſaw many marks of theſe terrible de⯑vaſtations. We croſſed it in ſeveral places; in one of which the landſcape was very much of the ſame dreary kind as that of the Devil's Bridge^*. Near the ſmall village of Hundeck, about three leagues from Spital, we had a glimpſe, through the trees, of the Aar falling from a conſiderable heighth. In order to gain a nearer view of it, we climbed along the ſides of a rock, which happened very luckily to be well covered with moſs, otherwiſe, from its ſteepneſs, it would not have [191] been practicable: I leaned againſt a tree that hung over the precipice, and ſaw the river ruſhing all at once as if from a crevice of the rock, and then ſpreading into a kind of ſemicircular expanſion in its deſcent. It fell with fury into a deep and narrow channel, and then loſt itſelf in the midſt of the foreſt. The river was very full, and its perpendicular fall, as far as I could judge by the eye, might be about 150 feet. The ſcenery alſo was ſolemnly majeſtic; the rocks on each ſide riſing perpendicularly, and totally bare, ex⯑cept their tops, which were crowned with pines.

Great part of this land of Haſli is extremely fertile, and well wooded: we traverſed in our way to Meyringen large foreſts of beech and pines, the Aar roaring along the vale; and the road, which was as craggy and as rugged as uſual, inceſſantly aſcending and deſcend⯑ing. We now paſſed through ſeveral [192] ſmall villages, which afforded us a pleaſ⯑ing ſight, after the deſolated country we had ſo lately been accuſtomed to; and came into a beautiful little vale of a moſt lively verdure, and delightfully planted. All here was calmneſs and repoſe: neither rapid river nor roaring torrent to interrupt the unuſual ſtillneſs and tranquillity of the ſcene. This ſhort interval of ſilence, made us the more ſenſibly affected by the turbulence of the Aar and the loud clamour of the cataracts.

We have now ſeen the three greate7s;t rivers in Swiſſerland (the Rhine excepted) iſſuing from their reſpective ſources; and have traced them in all their vio⯑lence through a tract of country in which Nature has exhibited ſome of the grandeſt and moſt auguſt of her works. But how impoſſible have I found it to convey to you an adequate idea of theſe her majeſtic, variegated, and aſtoniſh⯑ing ſcenes! They muſt all of them upon paper neceſſarily appear much the ſame: [193] yet, in fact, every river and cataract, every rock, mountain, and precipice, are reſpectively diſtinguiſhed from each other by an infinite diverſity of modifications, and by all the poſſible forms of beau⯑ty, or magnificence; of ſublimity, or horror. But theſe diſcriminating va⯑riations, though too viſibly marked to eſcape even the leaſt obſerving eye, elude every kind of repreſentation, and defy the ſtrongeſt powers both of the pen and the pencil. In a word, you muſt not judge of the beauties of this ro⯑mantic country, from the faint ſketches I have attempted to delineate: for, upon the whole, they can no more con⯑vey to you a complete and perfect idea of theſe wonderful ſcenes, than if I were to aim at giving you ſome notion of the pictures of Raphael and Corregio, by telling you, they are compoſed of paint and canvas.

Meyringen is a large neat village, being the capital burgh of this land of [194] Haſli: a diſtrict which enjoys conſider⯑able privileges. There is no bailiff appointed by the government of Berne over any part of this territory, but the people are governed by their own ma⯑giſtrates: the former, however, as well as the latter, are obliged to take oaths of fidelity to the ſovereign council of Berne. All the authority, which the bailiffs in the other parts of this canton enjoy, is poſſeſſed in a great meaſure by the Landamman; with this reſerve however, that he is ſubject to the in⯑ſpection of the bailiff of Interlaken, to whom he delivers in his accounts. He reſides here, and is appointed by the ſovereign council from among the in⯑habitants: he continues in charge ſix years. All the other magiſtrates (ex⯑cept the judge and the ſecretary) are elected by the people, who aſſemble every four years. Theſe privileges are the more remarkable in an ariſtocracy, like that of Berne, where the council of two [195] hundred are in poſſeſſion of ſovereign and unlimited power. In this diſtrict there are about 6,000 men capable of bearing arms, and about 20,000 ſouls.

The inhabitants are a very fine race of people: the men in general re⯑markably ſtrong, luſty, and well made; the women tall and handſome. The latter have an elegant manner of wear⯑ing their hair, which is commonly of a beautiful colour: it is parted from the top of the forehead, from thence brought round and joined to the locks behind; which either hang down their back in long treſſes, braided with rib⯑band, or are woven round the head in a ſimple plait. But the other part of the dreſs does not in the leaſt correſpond with this elegance; as their ſhapes, na⯑turally fine, are ſpoiled by an abſurd faſhion of wearing their petticoats ſo high, that they all appear as if they were round-ſhouldered and big-bellied.

Meyringen is ſituated near the Aar, [196] in a very romantic valley; ſurrounded by meadows of a moſt luxuriant ver⯑dure, ſprinkled with cottages, which are occaſionally ſeparated from each other by huge intervening ſtones and deep channels, the remaining effects of ſtorms and torrents. Cloſe to the village, the Alp-bach, a torrent ſo called, falls from the mountain Houſli, in two beautiful perpendicular caſcades, but with ſo much violence, and in ſo large a body of water, as to cauſe frequent inunda⯑tions: indeed the burgh itſelf has been in danger of being overwhelmed and deſtroyed by its repeated ravages; againſt which, however, it is now protected, by a wall of a conſiderable heighth and ſo⯑lidity. Near this torrent is another fall of water, that glides gently down the bare rock, which is there more ſloping; and, farther on, a third gliſtened as it deſcended through a hanging grove of pines, that feather the ſides of the moun⯑tain.

[197] The following is the ordinary price of proviſions throughout the moun⯑tainous parts of Swiſſerland: I have reduced the price to the value of our money.

By this you will perceive, that, in pro⯑portion, bread is much dearer than the other articles; and the reaſon is obvious: for, all theſe mountainous parts conſiſt almoſt entirely of paſturages, and pro⯑duce little corn. The peaſants of Swiſ⯑ſerland (I mean thoſe who inhabit the mountainous diſtricts) live chiefly upon milk, and what reſults from it, together with potatoes, which are here much [198] cultivated. According to the price of proviſions in England, the above liſt will appear exceedingly cheap: but then it ought at the ſame time to be conſi⯑dered, that money is very ſcarce in theſe parts. Nor indeed is it ſo much ne⯑ceſſary in a country, where there is no luxury; where all the peaſantry have, within themſelves, more than ſufficient for their own conſumption; and are tolerably well provided with every ne⯑ceſſary of life from their own little demeſnes. I had, to-day, a long con⯑verſation with one of the lads, who came with us from Altdorf, and takes care of the horſes. He lives upon the moun⯑tains of Uri; and, as their winter laſts near eight months of the year, during ſome part of which time there can be little communication between the ſeveral cottages, every family is of courſe obliged to lay in their proviſion for the whole winter. His own, it ſeems, conſiſts of ſeven perſons, and is provided with the [199] following ſtores: ſeven cheeſes, each weighing twenty-five pounds; an hun⯑dred and eight pounds of hard bread, twenty-five baſkets of potatoes, each weighing about forty pounds; ſeven goats, and three cows, one of which they kill. The cows and horſes (if they keep any) are fed with hay, and the goats with the boughs of firs; which, in a ſcarcity of hay, they give alſo to their other cattle. During this dreary ſeaſon the family are employed in mak⯑ing linen, ſhirts, &c. ſufficient for their own uſe: and, for this purpoſe, a ſmall patch of the little piece of ground be⯑longing to every cottage, is generally ſown with flax. The cultivation of the latter has been much attended to, and with increaſing ſucceſs, in theſe moun⯑tainous parts of Swiſſerland.

The houſes (as I obſerved to you be⯑fore, in my letters relating to Appenzel and Glaris) are generally built of wood; and it was a natural remark of one of [200] our ſervants, as we paſſed through ſuch a continued chain of rocks; that as there was ſtone enough to build all the cottages in the country, it was wonder⯑ful they ſhould uſe nothing but wood for that purpoſe: a remark that has been made by many travellers. But it ſhould ſeem, that theſe wooden houſes are much ſooner conſtructed, and are eaſily repaired; that they are built in ſo ſolid and compact a manner (the rooms ſmall, and the ceilings low) as to be ſufficiently warm even for ſo cold a cli⯑mate. The chief objection to them ariſes from the danger of fire; as the flames muſt rage with great rapidity, and communicate eaſily from one to the other. This inconvenience, however, is in a great meaſure obviated by the me⯑thod of building their cottages apart; all their villages conſiſting of detached and ſcattered hamlets. This obſerva⯑tion, however, does not hold with re⯑ſpect to ſome of their largeſt burghs: [201] and theſe muſt conſequently be expoſed to the ravages of this moſt dreadful of all calamities.

LETTER XVI.

WE left Meyringen this morning, croſſed the Aar, and mounted the Scheideck through a beautiful foreſt of beech, poplars, mountain-aſh, and pines: in our way we paſſed by the Reichenbach, a torrent celebrated for the beauty and impetuoſity of its fall: it glides for ſome way down the ſides of the mountain; then ruſhes perpendicu⯑larly into a deep gulph, it has ſcooped for itſelf in a quarry of black marble; and from thence, after forming in its courſe ſeveral ſmaller caſcades, flows into the Aar.

[202] After aſcending about three hours, we refreſhed ourſelves and our horſes in a delightful vale ſtrewed with ham⯑lets; a ſloping hill, adorned with varie⯑gated verdure, on one ſide; vaſt impend⯑ing rocks lifting their heads into the clouds, on the other; and a beautiful pyramidical mountain covered with ſnow, riſing before us. As we were taking our repaſt, we were ſuddenly ſtartled by a noiſe, like the ſound of thunder; we ſoon found that it was occaſioned by the falling of a large body of ſnow from the top of the mountain, which, in its precipitate deſcent had very much the appearance of a torrent of water re⯑duced almoſt into ſpray. Theſe la⯑vanges (as they are called) are ſometimes attended with the moſt fatal conſe⯑quences: for, when they conſiſt of enormous maſſes, they deſtroy every thing in their courſe; and there have been inſtances of their overwhelming even a whole village. The one we ſaw [203] was very trifling; but it was ſufficient however to give us ſome idea of thoſe, which are more conſiderable. The beſt preſervative againſt the effects of theſe lavanges being the foreſts, with which the alps of Swiſſerland ſo remarkably a⯑bound; there is ſcarce a village, if ſitu⯑ated at the foot of a mountain, but what is ſheltered by one of them: and the inhabitants preſerve them with pe⯑culiar reverence, as their common pro⯑tector. Thus, what conſtitutes one of the principal beauties of the country, affords alſo the greateſt ſecurity to the people.

The deſcent from hence to Grindel⯑wald was long and tedious: that village, conſiſting of a number of cottages, ſcattered over the plain and upon the riſing hills, exhibits a ſcene wonderfully agreeable and pictureſque, heightened at the ſame time by a view of the gla⯑cier. The latter, ſtretching from the ſummit of the mountain to the extre⯑mity [204] of the plain in a regular curve, is beautifully ſkirted with wood; and within a few paces of it, on each ſide, are fields of oats, barley, and rich mea⯑dows—but I am going to anticipate the deſcription I purpoſe to give you upon a nearer view; and ſo good night.

Auguſt 14.

Dare I confeſs to you, that I am ſomewhat diſappointed, and that a nearer view of the glacier has not ſufficiently compenſated for the fatigue and trouble of the expedition? But I have promiſed to write from my own feelings, and not to ſend you an ac⯑count taken from the exaggerated de⯑ſcriptions of others.—We ſallied out this morning full of impatience and expectation; and arrived at the bottom of the glacier, forming a vaſt majeſtic arch of ice; from whence iſſued a moſt loud torrent of ſnow-water juſt melted. This glacier is compoſed of an infinite [205] number of pyramids riſing from the bed of ice, which are more elevated towards the plain; being from about 40 to 60 feet high, and ſhortening as you aſcend, until they terminate in a broad ſurface broken into deep and wide clefts. We were above two hours in mounting a very difficult path at the edge of the frozen region, occaſionally paſſing over the ſteep and craggy parts of rock almoſt perpendicular, along the very ſides of the precipice: the danger of which makes me ſhudder even now. This glacier, as we were informed, joins to a very extenſive valley of ice, about 12 leagues in length, and ſituat⯑ed between two chains of elevated alps.

After having aſcended thus far, we were ſtopped by almoſt impaſſable moun⯑tains and a riſing hill of ice; our guide (who by the way was very ſtupid, and did not ſeem to underſtand his profeſ⯑ſion) aſſuring us at the ſame time, that it was impoſſible to proceed any farther. [206] Of this we were by no means convinc⯑ed; but not having any conductor with us who could lead us the way, and not daring to explore theſe unknown re⯑gions by ourſelves, we deſcended with heavy hearts; much chagrined, that what we had ſeen (though certainly a very curious and ſublime ſight) did not come up to what we had been taught to expect: and yet every one here, as well as our guide, aſſures us, that no travel⯑lers have penetrated farther. One rea⯑ſon, I believe, why this glacier is more particularly ſpoken of than others, is, that a very good view may be had of it without the trouble of aſcending. In that part between the mountains, now occupied by this glacier, there was for⯑merly a road which communicated with the Vallais, but is at preſent impaſſable; and we were ſhewn a ſpot, now covered with ice, where ſome years ago there ſtood a ſmall chapel.

What peculiarly diſtinguiſhes the [207] glacier I have been mentioning from that of the Furca, is, that the latter lies amidſt barren and craggy rocks, in a moſt deſolate, dreary, and uninhabited country; whereas this joins to a very fertile plain, and borders upon cultiva⯑tion: in other reſpects the Furca, con⯑ſidered independently of its ſituation, was a more ſtriking object. Not far from this glacier, pines, willows, aſh, and oaks, grow and come to perfection: potatoes alſo, together with beans, beet⯑root, and turnips are here produced; and near the borders of the ice I gather⯑ed ſome ſtrawberries and wild cherries, and obſerved hazel - nuts, barberries, and mulberry trees. The valley of Grindelwald is extremely fertile; it pro⯑duces barley, rye, hay, hemp, and fruit⯑trees in great abundance: above 2,000 head of large cattle, and near 3,000 of ſmall are here fed.

It has frequently been obſerved, that on conſiderable elevations, and more [208] particularly upon the glaciers, one finds a difficulty of breathing: a circumſtance which has been imputed to the rare⯑faction of the air. This however was ſo far from being confirmed by our own experience, that I can venture to deny the fact. For in all our expeditions upon the Swiſs alps, as well as in this of to-day upon the glacier, neither I nor any of the company ever felt the leaſt difficulty of breathing; but on the contrary ſeemed to enjoy a more eaſy reſpiration: we all appeared more free in our motions, more light, and not in the leaſt ſenſible of any inconvenience, except what aroſe from the piercing cold. Indeed in mounting the ſides of a ſteep and craggy rock, the fatigue is ſo great that one is ſoon exhauſted, and obliged to ſtop occaſionally in order to take breath: but this is only the effect of violent exertion; and ſo far from being cauſed by the elevation, that we found the higher we aſcended, the more [209] we became refreſhed. It is certain, that were this pretended difficulty of reſpira⯑tion produced by any ſubtlety of the air; that cauſe would at leaſt act uni⯑formly, and occaſion the ſame effects on all conſiderable heighths. But as we did not experience theſe effects; we may fairly conclude it to be an error ad⯑vanced haſtily by ſome travellers, and adopted by others who had never been out of the plain.

LETTER XVII.

THE road from Grindelwald to this place is ſingularly good, and we met, what to us is become a remarkable object, a cart in our way; as we have not ſeen any thing that moves upon wheels ſince we left Lucerne. The country was [210] moſt ſupremely delightful: beautiful hanging woods, immenſe rocks, deep precipices, and violent torrents. But I ſuppoſe you are by this time as much accuſtomed to rocks, precipices, and torrents, as the readers of Fingal to blue miſts and hollow winds.

This vale of Lauterbrunnen, is in⯑cloſed between two chains of high per⯑pendicular alps; the higheſt of which, is called the Jungfrau-horn, or the vir⯑gin's horn. The etymology uſually given of this word, is, that it takes its name of virgin, from its top being in⯑acceſſible: but this circumſtance is by no means peculiar to this particular mountain; and I much ſuſpect that its appellation is derived from very high antiquity. For, it is a well-known fact, that mountains and promontories pre⯑ſerve their original names, while towns, and even tracts of country, frequently change theirs with new inhabitants. It is therefore from the former, as well [211] as from the latter, that the antiquarian ſhould endeavour to trace the antiquity of any country. It muſt however be confeſſed, that if theſe etymologies are not in ſome meaſure corroborated by collateral hiſtorical evidence, they are generally vague and uncertain; more calculated to diſplay the ingenuity of the etymologiſt, than to throw any ſatis⯑factory light upon his reſearches. In ſhort, it is only when hiſtory and ety⯑mology go hand in hand, that they ſerve to ſtrengthen and ſupport each other. It is thus that my very learned and worthy friend Mr. Bryant, in his late admirable performance, has rendered his etymological enquiries ſubſervient to, and corroborated by, hiſtory; and with ſo much clearneſs, as to carry the fulleſt conviction to his reader. Were he now with me, I am perſuaded he would give me a much better etymology of the names of the Swiſs mountains, than thoſe which I have hitherto met with: [212] ſuch as the Jungfrau-horn above-men⯑tioned; or that of the Gemmi, which is generally deduced from Gemo, to groan, becauſe from its ſteepneſs the travel⯑ler groans as he aſcends; or from Gemini, becauſe there are two rocks in that chain of mountains, which reſem⯑ble each other. Whereas it is more probable, that the mountain in queſ⯑tion was thus called, long before the exiſtence of the Latin language.

We are now lodged at the houſe of the clergyman of Lauterbrunnen; a little village, or rather collection of cot⯑tages ſprinkled, like thoſe of Grindel⯑wald, about the valley and acceſſible parts of the hills. Near the houſe, is the celebrated fall of the Staubbach, which I am juſt returned from viewing. This torrent precipitates perpendicu⯑larly from a conſiderable heighth, and reſolves itſelf into fine ſpray: the great⯑eſt part of it falls clear of the over⯑hanging mountain, during its whole [213] deſcent; but the remainder daſhes a⯑bout half way againſt a projection from the rock, and flies off with inconceiv⯑able violence. The clergyman meaſur⯑ed, a ſhort time ago, the perpendicular heighth of this fall, and found it 930 feet. The ſun ſhining full upon it, formed towards the bottom of the fall a miniature rainbow extremely bright: while I ſtood at ſome diſtance, the rain⯑bow aſſumed a ſemicircular figure; as I approached, the extreme points gra⯑dually coincided, and formed a com⯑plete circle of the moſt lively and brilliant colours. In order to have a ſtill finer view, I ventured nearer and nearer; the circle at the ſame time becoming ſmaller and ſmaller; and as I ſtood quite under the fall, it ſuddenly diſappeared. When I looked up to the torrent, in this ſitua⯑tion, it reſembled a cloud of duſt: and from this circumſtance indeed it takes its name; Staubbach ſignifying, in the German language, a ſpring of duſt. [214] I paid for my curioſity, by getting wet to the ſkin; but then I had the ſin⯑gular ſatisfaction, at the ſame time, of ſeeing a rainbow in miniature: no uncommon phaenomenon, you know, as it may be obſerved in any caſcade, upon which the ſun ſhines directly in a certain poſition. In the preſent in⯑ſtance, however, it was ſome conſola⯑tion to me, under my dripping circum⯑ſtances, that the object happened to be peculiarly ſtriking. We are this in⯑ſtant going to ſet out for the Lauter⯑brunnen glaciers.

Auguſt 16.

We rode yeſterday morning to the extremity of the vale, in which there are ſome points of view as fine as any I have yet ſeen in Swiſſerland. In our way we had a glimpſe of a ſuperior fall of the Staubbach, divided into two ſtreams; which, afterwards uniting, form the ſecond perpendicular caſcade juſt mentioned. In this valley there [215] are ſeveral fountains of the cleareſt water, that guſh from the earth, and numberleſs torrents which precipitate themſelves from the mountains; two in particular which fall from a greater heighth than even the Staubbach, but as their deſcent is not ſo direct, they are leſs beautiful.

The aſcent to theſe glaciers is not altogether ſo dangerous as that at Grin⯑delwald; though upon the whole, it is more ſteep and more fatiguing. After mounting above three hours, we ar⯑rived at a ſmall hut, which in ſum⯑mer is inhabited by herdſmen, who make there moſt excellent cheeſes, and have numerous herds of cows, goats, and ſwine. Here we feaſted upon cold chamois, which our hoſt had pro⯑vided for us, not to mention a de⯑licious deſert of admirable cream and cheeſe. From hence we aſcended ſtill farther, with conſiderable difficulty, un⯑til we were ſurrounded by mountains, [216] which we were told were abſolutely im⯑paſſable. We wiſhed to proceed; but our hoſt aſſured us, we had but juſt time to return before night; and that no ſtrangers, except four of our country⯑men, had ever gone ſo far. Here then we ſat down cloſe to the ice, and en⯑joyed a fine view of the glacier and mountains before us.

One of theſe mountains, the Groſs-horn, is pyramidical, and covered with frozen ſnow; another, the Breit-horn, is conical, of a ſtupendous heighth, and crowned with an enormous maſs of pure tranſparent ice, from which the reflec⯑tion of the ſun's beams was inexpreſ⯑ſibly beautiful. The hollows between theſe mountains were filled with a large body of ice, broken into the greateſt variety of ſhapes imaginable: and ſeve⯑ral torrents (of which the Schmadi⯑brunnen is the moſt conſiderable) burſt⯑ing from the ſnow, and uniting in their courſe, form the Gletcher; a river which [217] flows through the vale of Lauterbrun⯑nen, receives the Staubbach, and falls into the Aar.

The whole ſcenery was exceedingly magnificent; and exhibited a moſt cu⯑rious and ſingular picture, eſpecially to one not accuſtomed to ſee ice and ſnow in the midſt of ſummer, bordering upon verdant groves and rich meadows. But yet the ideas we had conceived of this wonderful landſcape, from the ex⯑aggerated deſcriptions of others, have not been ſufficiently anſwered; nor was it much worth the trouble of climbing ſo far, as we had almoſt as perfect a view of the glacier from the hut above⯑mentioned. Every thing in Swiſſer⯑land has more than gratified our ex⯑pectations, except the glaciers; and yet theſe are certainly the moſt ſublime and the moſt intereſting natural phaenomena in the whole country. The truth is, from the accounts we had heard and read of them, our imaginations had been raiſed [218] too high: and we were led to ſuppoſe, that what we had ſeen in the Furca was much inferior in extent or magni⯑tude, to what we ſhould ſee in theſe parts; whereas in fact the latter was in all reſpects equal to whatever of the ſame kind we have ſince viſited. I am apt, however, to believe, that our diſ⯑appointment, in ſome meaſure, aroſe from the ignorance of our guides: and indeed I have no doubt, if it had been our good fortune to have been better conducted, we might, with ſome per⯑ſeverance, have penetrated farther into the upper regions of theſe mountains; and have found our moſt ſanguine ex⯑pectations in no reſpect diſappointed.

The higher and more inacceſſible parts of theſe alps, are inhabited by the bouquetin and the chamois; whoſe activity in ſcouring along the ſteep and craggy rocks, and in leaping over the precipices, is by all accounts ſcarcely conceivable. [219] The blood of both theſe animals is of ſo hot a nature, that the inhabitants of theſe mountains, who are all of them ſubject to pleuriſies, take a few drops of it, mixed with water, as a remedy for that diſorder. The fleſh of the chamois is much eſteemed here; and to us it appeared delicious, ſeaſoned as it was with hunger.

Theſe mountains are covered to a conſiderable heighth with a rich and de⯑lightful verdure; and we ſaw upon their tops, at ſome diſtance, ſeveral little villages, the acceſs to which muſt have been almoſt as difficult as to theſe glaciers.

Upon our return from our expedi⯑tion, our hoſt feaſted us with a moſt excellent ſupper: among other articles, there was the beſt ham I ever taſted. The ſwine in theſe parts are uncom⯑monly fat; in ſummer they feed en⯑tirely upon the graſs and wild herbs they find on the mountains, and never taſte any milk.

[220] The clergyman and his wife, with whom we are lodged, are very ſingular characters: both of them immoderate talkers, but each ſtrongly marked with good-nature and benevolence; and ſo very deſirous to oblige, and to furniſh us with every poſſible convenience, that their civility is abſolutely embarraſſing. Indeed we were much concerned upon being informed, that the good woman, who is big with child, had ſat up all night to make bread and cakes, and to prepare ſome other proviſion to carry with us in our excurſion to the gla⯑cier: and, what was ſtill more diſtreſſ⯑ing, ſhe would wait upon us at ſupper, notwithſtanding all our entreaties to the contrary. This good couple have ſeveral children; and their circumſtances cannot be very eaſy, as the livings in the canton of Berne are extremely mo⯑derate; and this is not one of the beſt. From this conſideration, thoſe travellers who are lodged in their [221] houſe, always make them a handſome preſent, as a recompence for the trouble they have been the occaſion of giving them.

I am now going to take a laſt look at the Staubbach, before I bid farewell to our honeſt hoſts, and the vale of Lauterbrunnen.

LETTER XVIII.

WHEN we were upon the Lau⯑terbrunnen glaciers, we were within three leagues of this place; but the mountains being, as we were in⯑formed, impaſſable, we were obliged to make a circuit of forty miles: I have no objection, however, to theſe round⯑about ways, as by that means we have an opportunity of ſeeing more of the ſub⯑lime ſcenery of this wonderful country.

[222] We had quitted the Aar at Mey⯑ringen, and now joined it again about two leagues from Lauterbrunnen, flow⯑ing through a fertile plain, which lies between the two lakes of Brientz and Thun, and iſſuing from the former. We followed its courſe until it entered the lake of Thun, ſo called from a town of that name, ſituated upon its north-weſtern extremity. This lake is about four leagues long and one broad; and, if we may judge from the ſteep⯑neſs of the mountains with which it is bounded, muſt be very deep: the bor⯑ders are richly variegated; and preſent ſeveral fine points of view, greatly heightened by ſome pyramidical rocks riſing boldly from the edge of the water. We coaſted this lake, through a de⯑lightful country, to the ſmall village of Leiſingen; mounted up to another called Aeſchi, from whence we looked down upon the whole lake of Thun, and part of the lake of Brientz, at a [223] ſmall diſtance: then entered the rich vale of Frutigen, parallel to that of Lauterbrunnen, and enjoyed, for a con⯑ſiderable way, a proſpect of thoſe gla⯑ciers we had viſited the day before.

This vale ends at the town of Fru⯑tigen: from thence commences that of Kander, with a river of the ſame name running through it towards the lake of Thun, and bounded by an exceed⯑ing high mountain called Kanderſteg. In all theſe vales, the rudeneſs and heighth of the mountains, which almoſt ſhut in upon them, contraſted with the beauty and fruitfulneſs of the plains, which are always watered by ſome lively torrent, form a thouſand pic⯑tureſque ſcenes, ever changing, and im⯑poſſible to be deſcribed: and they are ſtill farther embelliſhed by the number of ruined caſtles perched upon points ſeemingly inacceſſible.

The road continued good as far as the ſmall village of Kanderſteg; and [224] from thence delicate travellers, who do not chuſe to mount a rugged aſcent, either on foot or on horſe⯑back, are carried in a kind of arm-chair placed by means of poles upon men's ſhoulders. We proceeded, however, on horſeback, having before rode up ſteeper and more difficult paths. After having aſcended above two hours, we came to a ſingle houſe, not far from the top of the mountain, where we got ſome refreſhment: here we ſaw no⯑thing but immenſe rocks piled upon one another, with no appearance of vege⯑tation; and the weather was exceed⯑ingly cold. We then paſſed over a large drift of ſnow, and came to a lake called the Dauben See, about a league in circumference, ſupplied by a conſiderable torrent from a neighbour⯑ing glacier. This lake has no viſible outlet; but it evidently finds a paſ⯑ſage under ground into the Vallais, about ſix leagues off, as that current ceaſes to flow when the lake is frozen.

[225] This chain of mountains, which ſe⯑parates the canton of Berne from the Vallais, is called the Gemmi: from the point of which, over-looking and al⯑moſt over-hanging the Vallais, we had at once a moſt extenſive proſpect of that country, and of the Savoy gla⯑ciers; but what principally attracted our admiration, was the Mont Blanc, riſing above the reſt in the moſt ſtately and majeſtic form. It is a conical mountain, of ſtupendous heighth; and ſeemed to have a glittering crown of pure ice upon its ſummit. The moun⯑tain which we deſcended, is in many places almoſt abſolutely perpendicular; and yet a horſe-road has been cut out of the hard rock down this very for⯑midable deſcent. This road was begun in 1736, and finiſhed in 1741, at the joint expence of the Vallais, and the canton of Berne: an aſtoniſhing work! and proves that nothing is impracti⯑cable to human induſtry. More than a [226] league of the hard rock has been blown up with gunpowder, and a way formed which ſeems dangerous to thoſe who are unuſed to mountainous countries, or whoſe heads are apt to turn giddy. It is about nine feet broad, and quite hangs over the precipice: in ſome parts, for, a conſiderable ſpace, it is a hollow way, open only at one ſide, the rock above projecting over it, of the ſame breadth, and in the ſame direction. The appearance is peculiarly ſingular: for as the road winds continually, the ſcene alſo continually changes; ſo that one moment we commanded an exten⯑ſive view, and the next were totally incloſed with barren rock. From the beginning of the ſteep deſcent we all diſmounted, and the horſes were left to themſelves: it was ſomewhat curious to ſee them picking out their way, and frequently venturing to the very edge of the precipice to crop a ſtrag⯑gling blade of graſs.

[227] The deſcent from the top to the plain, is about two leagues; when you are arrived at the bottom, and look up, you cannot ſee the ſmalleſt traces of a road; ſo that a ſtranger would hardly believe it poſſible that there really is one, until convinced by his own ex⯑perience.

This place is famous for its hot me⯑dicinal ſprings; and accordingly is much frequented by invalids of various kinds during this ſeaſon of the year: the pa⯑tients either bathe or drink the waters. As far as I can judge from the accounts which I have received concerning their warmth, their analyſis, the method of uſing them, and their efficacy in curing the gout, rheumatiſm, obſtructions, cutaneous diſorders, &c.; they ſeem nearly to reſemble thoſe of Bath. There are ſeveral ſprings, of different warmth and of different qualities: according to the moſt accurate experiments, the Mer⯑cury in Reaumur's thermometer ſtands [228] at 42 degrees, when plunged into the warmeſt ſource: and it is ſome⯑what remarkable, that a ſtream of cold water iſſues from the ground within a few yards of this laſt-mentioned ſpring.

The accommodations for the company are very bad: each perſon having for his own uſe a ſmall apartment not more than a few feet ſquare; in which there is juſt room for a bed, a table, and two chairs. The public dining-room is, as you may ſuppoſe, upon rather a larger ſcale, as is alſo a kind of aſſembly-room, where the company, who are very ſocia⯑ble, meet occaſionally. Formerly the accommodations were tolerably good; but unfortunately, in 1719, a lavange fell with ſuch impetuoſity from one of the neighbouring glaciers upon the village, as to overwhelm the greateſt part of the houſes and the baths, and to deſtroy a conſiderable number of the inhabitants.

The company here, conſiſting of a large collection of perſons from different [229] quarters of Swiſſerland, are exceedingly affable and obliging: inſomuch that ſeveral of them have invited us to their reſpective houſes at Berne, Neuchatel, &c.; and this invitation was made with all that openneſs and unaffected frank⯑neſs ſo peculiarly characteriſtic of the Swiſs. Accordingly we propoſe profit⯑ing of their hoſpitable offers, fully per⯑ſuaded, that by ſo doing, we ſhall give them an unfeigned pleaſure: and in⯑deed it is not difficult to diſtinguiſh an unmeaning invitation of mere formal civility, from one which is tendered with a real deſire of being accepted. We dined this morning at eleven; the bell for ſupper is now ringing, and it is ſcarce ſeven. Theſe are primitive hours: but we have travelling appetites; and, provided we can but meet with refreſh⯑ment, it matters little at what hour, or in what place.

You are now probably drinking tea in your withdrawing-room, from whence [230] you are enjoying that beautiful proſpect I have ſo often admired. The ſituation of this ſpot is far more romantic than that of Bath, and the waters perhaps are full as efficacious: yet this village contains only a few miſerable houſes, while Bath is one of the fineſt towns in Europe. I had a converſation to-day upon this topic, among others, with a very ingenious and well-informed gen⯑tleman of this country. I obſerved to him, that, conſidering the great credit and efficacy of theſe waters, I could not forbear wondering that the chiefs of the republic had not thought the im⯑provement of the accommodations an object worthy of their attention; as the rendering them more convenient for the reception of invalids, would undoubtedly be the means of drawing hither a great number of ſtrangers; and conſequently could not fail of being highly beneficial to the country. He aſſured me, it had more than once been in their contem⯑plation: [231] but that there were ſome per⯑ſons of great credit and authority, who oppoſed it, upon a principle ſimilar to the policy of Lycurgus; as they thought that a concourſe of ſtrangers would only ſerve to introduce luxury among the inhabitants, and inſenſibly deſtroy that ſimplicity of manners, for which the Vallaiſans are ſo remarkably diſtin⯑guiſhed.

How far the ignorance of a people contributes to their true felicity? or how far a ſimplicity of manners may be corrupted by national improvement? are queſtions, which have been much agi⯑tated; and will never be decided, ſo long as it ſhall be held juſt reaſoning to argue from the abuſe to the uſe. But I ſhould think, it will readily be al⯑lowed, that ſuperſtition is ever the com⯑panion of ignorance; and that a peo⯑ple who are both ignorant and ſuper⯑ſtitious, muſt neceſſarily be benefited by an intercourſe with nations more [232] improved and enlightened than them⯑ſelves.

Not far from hence, a communica⯑tion has been made between this place and the village of Alpen, down a ſteep rock. Where the mountain inclines ever ſo little towards a ſlope, a foot⯑path has been cut; but in thoſe parts where the rock is directly perpendicular, ladders are placed, not unlike thoſe by which one goes down into mines; and upon theſe the peaſants aſcend and de⯑ſcend with heavy burdens upon their ſhoulders. I mention ſuch circum⯑ſtances as theſe, not as being objects in themſelves ſo remarkable, perhaps, as they are repreſented by ſome travellers; but as they will give you a ſtronger idea of the extreme ruggedneſs and ſingula⯑rity of the country.

LETTER XIX.

IBEGIN now to feel myſelf much leſs conſtrained in converſation than I have lately been; as the people in this part of the Vallais all talk a kind of French patois: for, this town being nearly the point, where the German patois terminates, and where the French begins; the inhabitants conſequently ſpeak both languages. Nothing is more curious or intereſting to thoſe, who have entered into inquiries of this nature, than to obſerve the gradations of lan⯑guage: but as I own my ignorance in this branch of literature, I can only mention the ſimple fact.

We ſet out this morning at five, and came down a very ſteep valley to Leuk, a ſmall town built upon an eminence near the Rhone: that river is here very [234] rapid; and, if we may judge by the breadth of its channel, often overflows its banks. We croſſed it at this place, and continued for ſome way through a foreſt of firs, till we again paſſed the river to Sider: from thence along its banks to Sion, the capital of this dizain, and of the whole Vallais. This tract of country, called the Vallais, ſtretches from eaſt to weſt about an hundred miles; and is divided into the upper and lower Vallais. The former reaches from the eaſtern extremity to the river Morge, below Sion; and the latter from that river to St. Gingol, ſituated upon the lake of Geneva: the whole containing about 100,000 ſouls, all Catholics.

The upper diſtrict is ſovereign of the lower, and is divided into ſeven inde⯑pendent dizains, or commonwealths; ſix ^* of which are democratical, and that of Sion ariſtocratical. The biſhop of [235] Sion was formerly abſolute ſovereign over the greateſt part of the Vallais: at preſent his authority is extremely li⯑mited, and he is little more than a kind of nominal prince. However, all the public acts are iſſued out in his name; he has the power of pardoning crimi⯑nals; and the money is coined in his name, and with the arms of the re⯑public. He is ſtyled prince of the Ger⯑man empire, and count or praefect of the Vallais.

The ſeven dizains or communities above⯑mentioned, form, conjointly with the bi⯑ſhop, one republic; and all the general affairs are regulated in an aſſembly called Landſrath, or council of the country, which meets twice every year at Sion. This aſſem⯑bly conſiſts of nine voices; namely, the biſhop, who has but one vote, the lands-hauptmann, or chief of the republic, and each of the ſeven communities: and all their reſolutions are decided by the ma⯑jority. In this aſſembly the biſhop pre⯑ſides, [236] and the lands-hauptmann collects the votes. The latter is choſen or con⯑firmed by this aſſembly every two years: and, upon the death of the biſhop, the chapter of Sion chooſe four candidates from their own body, and out of theſe the aſſembly nominates. Each dizain, although it has but one vote, ſends to this diet as many deputies as it pleaſes: they generally conſiſt of four;—a judge, a banneret, a captain, and a lieutenant. The judge and the lieutenant are ap⯑pointed every two years; the two others are for life. The democratical dizains are exceedingly jealous of their liberties, and very vigilant to prevent the deputies from gaining too great an influence. Accordingly, in each commonwealth, before the meeting of the diet, a ge⯑neral aſſembly of the people is ſummoned, in which every one of the age of four⯑teen has a vote: and inſtructions con⯑cerning all affairs of importance are by them given to their ſeveral deputies, [237] which the latter are obliged ſtrictly to follow. By theſe means, the ſeveral votes in the general diet, do not depend upon the caprice or inclination of the deputies when aſſembled; but the mat⯑ter is firſt laid before the particular aſ⯑ſemblies of each commonwealth, and according to their deciſion the judge delivers in the vote.

In all cauſes of a certain importance, an appeal lies to this aſſembly in the laſt reſort, from the inferior courts of juſtice in the ſeveral dizains, as well as from thoſe of the biſhop, and of the lands-hauptmann. Thus, by the inſtitution of this ſupreme council, all the ſeveral communities in this country are firmly united, and form in conjunction one body politic, or republic, for the gene⯑ral affairs of the nation at large. In other caſes, each of the commonwealths is governed by its own particular laws and cuſtoms: and the conſtitution of the ſix popular ones reſembles in a great [238] meaſure the little democratical cantons of Swiſſerland.

Both the upper and lower Vallais were formerly dependent upon the biſhop of Sion: but the inhabitants of the two diſtricts united together in order to limit his power; and, having ſucceeded in the attempt, they quarrelled among them⯑ſelves for the ſuperiority. A bloody war enſued; which terminated, in 1475, by the total defeat of the lower Val⯑laiſans. Since that period, they have continued ſubject to the others; enjoy⯑ing however ſome very conſiderable pri⯑vileges. The lower diſtrict is divided into ſix departments, over which bailiffs are appointed by the general aſſembly.

The republic of the Vallais is one of the allies of the thirteen cantons; and beſides this general alliance, a particu⯑lar treaty ſubſiſts between them and the ſeven Catholic cantons, for the defence of their common religion. They have entered likewiſe into treaties with France, [239] and other powers, with a reſerve how⯑ever in all of them reſpecting their ge⯑neral alliance with the thirteen cantons of Swiſſerland.

The biſhops of Sion had formerly a conſiderable influence over the political affairs of Swiſſerland; and Matthew Schaner, the cardinal biſhop, is famous in hiſtory for his great abilities, his dar⯑ing ſpirit of intrigue, and his turbulent and reſtleſs ambition. It was entirely owing to his repreſentations and in⯑fluence, that the Swiſs troops gave the only inſtance, perhaps, of infidelity to their public engagements, of which they were ever guilty; by breaking a treaty they had juſt concluded with Francis I. When that monarch marched into Italy to attack the Milaneſe, he endeavoured to gain over the Swiſs; who having taken the duke of Milan under their protection, were the only obſtacles to the progreſs of his arms. After much heſitation, they were at length pre⯑vailed [240] upon, by the ſubſidies he offered, to enter into a treaty with him: but the alliance was no ſooner concluded, than the cardinal of Sion perſuaded them to break it, and continue the war. The Swiſs hiſtorians however record, with triumph, the patriotic conduct of two of their officers upon this occaſion; who, remonſtrating againſt this breach of faith, drew off eight thouſand of their troops; and returning with them to their country, in ſome meaſure re⯑trieved the honour of their nation.

The remainder of the army, inſtigated by the plauſible and artful eloquence of the cardinal, attacked Francis I. near Marignano; which brought on one of the moſt furious and obſtinate battles that was fought during the bloody wars of Italy. Night alone put a ſtop to the en⯑gagement, without ſeparating the com⯑batants; both armies remaining blended together upon the field of battle: Francis ſlept upon the carriage of a [241] cannon, at no great diſtance from a bat⯑talion of the enemy. At day-break the Swiſs renewed the charge with their uſual courage, and were received with equal bravery. At length the intrepidity of the king, and the deſperate valour of the French, roſe ſuperior to the furious and repeated attacks of the Swiſs; and the latter retired in good order to Milan, leaving Francis in poſſeſſion of the field of battle: an advantage, however, which he gained by the loſs of the braveſt of his troops.

The ſame cardinal of Sion, who al⯑ways entertained the moſt inveterate en⯑mity to the French, occaſioned alſo, by his ſole intrigues, the loſs of the Mi⯑laneſe to Francis. Lautrec, in the year 1521, commanded a body of 12,000 Swiſs, who formed the principal ſtrength of his army. On the other ſide, the cardinal had obtained, by his influence over his countrymen, a ſecret levy of the [242] like number, to join the army of the confederates: and thus, for the firſt time, the Swiſs were ſeen combating un⯑der oppoſite banners, and ready to com⯑mit hoſtilities againſt each other. Upon this occaſion the cantons immediately diſpatched meſſengers, with peremptory orders for the Swiſs in both armies, to return to their country. The cardinal bribed the meſſengers to conceal theſe orders from the Swiſs in the ſervice of the confederates; and to deliver them only to thoſe who were in the French army. The latter obeyed accordingly; and this deſertion ſo weakened the army of Lautrec, that he was no longer able to make head againſt the enemy: in con⯑ſequence of which, Milan, and the prin⯑cipal towns, ſurrendered to the confe⯑derates.

The inhabitants of this part of the Vallais, are very much ſubject to goiters, or large excreſcences of fleſh that grow [243] from the throat, and often encreaſe to a moſt enormous ſize: but, what is more extraordinary, idiocy alſo remark⯑ably abounds among them. I ſaw ma⯑ny inſtances of both kinds as I paſſed through this town: of the latter, ſome few were baſking in the ſun with their tongues out, and their heads hanging down; exhibiting the moſt affecting ſpectacle of intellectual imbecillity that can poſſibly be conceived. The cauſes which produce a greater frequency of theſe phaenomena in this country than in any other, is a curious queſtion, which very much excites my inquiry: but I ſhall defer ſending you my pre⯑ſent opinion, until I ſhall have gained all the farther information in my power to procure.

The weather in this incloſed vale is exceedingly hot: I am at this inſtant, although it is late in the evening, ſcarce able to bear the intolerable ſultrineſs. [244] This languid heat is probably one of the cauſes, which occaſion the incon⯑ceivable lazineſs and indolence of the inhabitants: although ſomething at the ſame time muſt be attributed to the richneſs of the ſoil, which is ſo won⯑derfully fertile as almoſt to prevent la⯑bour, and ſpontaneouſly produce the fruits of the earth. And indeed the people aſſiſt nature very little: we paſſ⯑ed ſeveral vineyards, in which we ob⯑ſerved the vines were ſuffered to trail upon the ground; whereas, if at the expence of but little additional pains, the branches had been properly raiſed and ſupported, the owner would have been well rewarded by the ſuperior quantity and quality of their produce.

The dirt and naſtineſs of the common people, is diſguſting beyond all expreſ⯑ſion: of which I have had ſome unpleaſant proofs from entering into ſeveral houſes, as well in the town itſelf as on my way [245] to it. I have juſt been holding a con⯑verſation upon this ſubject with my landlord; who, though much the naſ⯑tieſt fellow I ever ſaw, was complaining of the uncleanlineſs of the people; and ſeemed to aſſign that circumſtance as one cauſe of the goiters. This induced me to caſt my eyes upon the perſon of my hoſt with ſomewhat more attention, in order to diſcover how it ſtood with himſelf in that reſpect; and I was ra⯑ther diſappointed to find that he proved an exception to his own remark. Let me not, however, be underſtood as in⯑ſinuating that all the inhabitants in ge⯑neral are either goitrous, idiots, indo⯑lent, or dirty; like that traveller who aſſerted, that all the women of a certain town were crooked, red-haired, and pitted with the ſmall-pox, becauſe his landlady happened to be ſo. Indeed, I look upon national reflections in gene⯑ral, to proceed from the narroweſt and moſt illiberal turn of mind: and I have [246] always been cautious not to judge of the phyſical, or moral character of any people from a partial and ſuperficial view. But as to the ſingular preva⯑lency among theſe people of the two natural defects I have mentioned; it is a fact which I can venture to affirm, both from my own experience, and from various converſations I have had with ſeveral men of learning and ob⯑ſervation of this country: and with re⯑ſpect to the general dirtineſs and indo⯑lence of the common people; it is too notorious to eſcape the obſervation of the moſt careleſs traveller.

Sion is ſituated near the Rhone, at the foot of two inſulated mountains, that riſe immediately from the plain: upon theſe are ſeveral palaces belonging to the biſhop, particularly that called May⯑ [...]ria, which is his principal reſidence, and where the general aſſembly is held. This town is very antient, and was for⯑merly the capital of the Seduni, who in⯑habited [247] this part of the country in the time of Julius Caeſar. There are ſtill remaining ſome inſcriptions that prove its antiquity; and, among others, that were ſo obliterated I was not able to decypher them, I obſerved one which was more legible: it is in honour of the emperor Auguſtus, and was put up dur⯑ing his eleventh conſulſhip. In this inſcription the town is called Civitas Sedunorum.

LETTER XX.

AT Sion we parted with our horſes and guides, who had accompa⯑nied us from Altdorf; and procured a piece of luxury, to which we had been for ſome time unaccuſtomed; I mean a coach. But, notwithſtanding the con⯑centrated [248] heat of the climate, and the great ſultrineſs of the air, I prefer rid⯑ing or walking; as by that means one enjoys a more unobſtructed view of the country: and indeed the ſcenes are ſo beautiful, and ſo perpetually changing, that one's attention is called upon every moment by a variety of new objects that ſtrongly demand admiration.

Upon entering the lower Vallais, I thought I perceived a greater appearance of induſtry than in the environs of Sion: and I am informed, that theſe people are not altogether ſo indolent as the latter^*. But as to dirt, they by no means yield to thoſe of Sion.

[249] We ſtopped at the village of Marti⯑nac, which, according to antiquarians, was the ancient Octodurum. It is ſaid, that near this place may be traced the ſite of Sergius Galba's camp, one of Julius Caeſar's lieutenants; who was ſent by that general to ſubdue the Ve⯑ragri, the Pantuates, and the Seduni; the antient inhabitants of theſe diſtricts. It ſeems evident indeed from Caeſar's deſcription, in the third book of his commentaries, that Octodurum could not be far from the preſent ſituation of Martinac; placed as it is in a ſmall plain, encircled by high mountains, and divided by the ſmall river Dranſe, which falls not far from thence into the Rhone. [250] I cannot however aſcertain from my own obſervation, whether there are in fact any traces ſtill remaining of a Roman encampment; nor could I get any information concerning it from the inhabitants: ſo that what I have men⯑tioned is only upon the faith of anti⯑quarians, and from the general poſition of the country.

Near Martinac we were much pleaſ⯑ed with the majeſtic appearance of the ruins of an old caſtle, built upon the ſummit of a craggy rock, and hanging over the torrent beneath: it was for⯑merly a caſtle belonging to the biſhop of Sion, and his principal reſidence. The road lies, from thence to St. Mau⯑rice, under a chain of rocks, with the Rhone flowing at a ſmall diſtance through the midſt of a rich vale. In our way we paſſed cloſe to the Piſſe-Vache; a waterfall, that deſcends from the glacier above, but which ſeems to burſt from the middle of the rock: I have [251] ſeen higher falls, but none more beau⯑tiful. There is a cleft in the rock at top; on each ſide of this opening are ſhrubs; and from the midſt of theſe ſhrubs, the torrent, ruſhing in a vaſt body of water with amazing violence, falls perpendicularly into the valley. Theſe torrents are my great delight: but perhaps they recur a little too often in my letters to continue to be yours.

Towards the extremity of the lower Vallais, the two chains of mountains that bound this country, approach to⯑wards the Rhone, which almoſt entirely fills up the ſpace between them. In this ſpot is ſituated the town of St. Maurice, built almoſt totally upon the rock, at the foot of a range of ſteep moun⯑tains, at a ſmall diſtance from the river. Its antient appellation was Agaunum: it takes that of St. Maurice from an abbey, erected in the beginning of the ſixth century, by Sigiſmond king of Burgundy, in honour of a ſaint ſo called, who, it is pretended, ſuffered [252] martyrdom in this place. This ſaint was the leader of the famous Theban legion, which conſiſting of above ſix thouſand men, was maſſacred (as it is ſaid) by order of the emperor Maxi⯑mian, for not renouncing Chriſtianity. Various have been the diſputes con⯑cerning the authenticity of this hiſ⯑tory: for while ſome authors have treated it as a mere forgery; others have contended for its being genu⯑ine, with as much warmth and zeal as if the truth of Chriſtianity de⯑pended upon the deciſion. Without entering into the merits of the queſtion, I cannot but remark, that the cauſe of Chriſtianity has ſuffered more from weak and imprudent defenders, than from the ſharpeſt attacks of its moſt inveterate ad⯑verſaries. Indeed, the queſtion concern⯑ing the number and ſufferings of the mar⯑tyrs, has occaſioned much idle contro⯑verſy: for, reduce the popular accounts of both as low as probability can rea⯑ſonably carry them, there will ſtill re⯑main [253] ſufficient evidence of the wonder⯑ful conſtancy and calm reſolution of thoſe primitive victims: and whether an hundred thouſand, or only fifty, ſuffered for the cauſe of Chriſtianity, it will equally ſtand upon the ſame firm and immoveable foundation. Nor is the inquiry more material concerning the motives that actuated their powerful and cruel adverſaries. It matters not whether Decius ordered the Chriſtians to be perſecuted, becauſe they had been favoured by his predeceſſor Phi⯑lip, or from his attachment to the Pagan rites; whether Maximin per⯑ſecuted them from political motives; Diocleſian as introducing innovations in his government; or whether they were favoured by Conſtantine from con⯑viction or from policy. For the truth of Chriſtianity is in no reſpect affected either by the imprudence of its early profeſſors (if with any they were juſtly chargeable) or the political reaſons that influenced the conduct of thoſe empe⯑rors [254] towards them. But I am running into a digreſſion; ſo it will be beſt to ſtop here, and bid you good night.

Auguſt 21.

A few Roman inſcriptions, and thoſe chiefly ſepulchral, as alſo two antient columns, defaced and plaiſtered, to⯑gether with the bridge over the Rhone, which ſtill ſubſiſts entire, are the only viſible marks remaining of the anti⯑quity of this town. This is the chief entrance into the Vallais; and ſo won⯑derfully is this country fortified by na⯑ture, that a handful of men might defend it againſt a very conſiderable army.

To-day we made an excurſion into the canton of Berne, in order to ſee the ſalt-works near Bex. We croſſed the Rhone over the antient and beau⯑tiful ſtone-bridge, I have juſt mention⯑ed, conſiſting of a ſingle arch, and eſ⯑teemed by the moſt judicious and beſt⯑informed [255] antiquarians to be undoubt⯑edly Roman. Half of this bridge belongs to the Vallais, and the remainder to the canton of Berne. From hence com⯑mences the bailliage of Aigle, which reaches to the Pays de Vaud, and was formerly, when under the dominion of the houſe of Savoy, compriſed within that diſtrict: at preſent it is claſſed under the German diviſion of the canton, although the inhabitants talk French.

Upon our arrival at the ſalt-ſprings, I put on a workman's jacket, and went into the mountain about 3,000 feet, almoſt horizontally. The gallery is about eight feet high, and ſix broad, and is as nicely hollowed as if it had been cut with a chiſſel: it is by far the moſt commodious ſubterranean paſ⯑ſage I ever entered. The ſalt is pro⯑cured from ſome ſprings, which are found within a ſolid rock, perforated at a great expence: the richeſt ſource [256] yields twelve pound of ſalt in an hun⯑dred weight of water, and the pooreſt but one pound in the ſame quantity. Near theſe are ſeveral warm ſprings, ſtrongly impregnated with ſulphur; ſome of which contain alſo a mixture of ſalt; and will flame if a lighted candle be put into the pipe through which they flow. Not far from the richeſt of the ſalt-ſprings, ſome pieces of rock-ſalt, in cubical forms, have been found; but the quantity hitherto diſcovered is ſo very inconſiderable, that no advantage ariſes from it.

The water is conveyed by pipes to Bevieux, where the ſalt is extracted. If the whole quantity of the impreg⯑nated water which contains ſo ſmall a proportion of ſalt, were to be boiled immediately, and at once; the conſump⯑tion of wood requiſite for that pur⯑poſe, would amount to a great ex⯑pence. In order to ſave this coſt, they make uſe of what is called a graduation⯑houſe, [257] conſtructed in the following man⯑ner:—It is a long building, open at the ſides; within are ranged layers of fag⯑gots, piled up to a conſiderable heighth. The water in queſtion is conveyed by pumps into reſervoirs above, from whence it falls down upon the faggots, after having been reſolved into rain by the current of air: in filtering through theſe faggots, it depoſes a certain por⯑tion of its earthy and ſelenitical par⯑ticles, and is received at bottom into other reſervoirs; from whence it is pumped up again. This proceſs is re⯑peated as often as is found neceſſary: after which it is then boiled, and the ſalt chryſtaliſes upon the ſides and at the bottom of the cauldron.

Theſe ſalt-works, and thoſe of Aigle, are the only ones in Swiſſerland: and they are of great conſequence to this country; as it muſt otherwiſe depend en⯑tirely upon foreign nations for a ſupply of ſo eſſential an article. Theſe works [258] are ſuppoſed to bring in jointly a neat yearly profit to government, of above ſeventeen thouſand pounds ſterling: and they furniſh nearly one third of the whole annual conſumption of the can⯑ton. The remainder is procured chief⯑ly from France, which is obliged by treaty to provide the Swiſs ſtates with this commodity at a moderate price: and indeed ſo high is the tax upon ſalt in that kingdom, that even the French ſalt is ſold two thirds cheaper in Swiſſerland, than in many parts of France^*. The ordinary price of com⯑mon ſalt throughout the canton, is at the rate of three half-pence per pound.

In our excurſion to theſe mines, we paſſed through a moſt delightful coun⯑try, [259] richly variegated, and abounding in hanging groves of Spaniſh cheſnuts, inexpreſſibly beautiful.

LETTER XXI.

I AM now writing to you from the little village of Trient in the Val⯑lais, on my way to the glaciers of Savoy. From the mountain of the Furca, its eaſtern boundary, two vaſt ranges of alps encloſe the Vallais: the ſouthern chain ſeparates it from the Milaneſe, Piedmont, and part of Savoy; the northern divides it from the canton of Berne. Theſe two chains, in their various windings, form ſeveral ſmall valleys, through which a number of torrents ruſh into the Rhone, as it traverſes the whole country from the [260] Furca to St. Maurice. A country thus entirely encloſed within high alps, and conſiſting of plains, elevated valleys, and lofty mountains, muſt neceſſarily exhi⯑bit a great variety of ſituations, climates, and productions. Accordingly, the Val⯑lais preſents to the curious traveller a quick ſucceſſion of proſpects, as beau⯑tiful as they are diverſified. Number⯑leſs vineyards, rich paſture-grounds co⯑vered with cattle, corn, flax, fruit⯑trees, and wild foreſts: and theſe occa⯑ſionally bordered by naked rocks, whoſe ſummits are crowned with everlaſting ſnow, and inacceſſible glaciers. This ſtrong and ſtriking contraſt between the paſtoral and the ſublime; the cul⯑tivated and the wild; cannot but affect the mind of an obſerver with the moſt pleaſing emotions.

As to the productions of the Vallais; they muſt evidently vary in different parts, according to the great diverſity of climates, by which this country is ſo [261] peculiarly diſtinguiſhed. It ſupplies more than ſufficient wine and corn for the interior conſumption; and indeed a conſiderable quantity of both are yearly exported; the ſoil in the midland and lower parts being exceedingly rich and fertile. In the plain, where the heat is collected and confined between the mountains, the harveſt is ſo very for⯑ward, that it has already for ſome time been carried in: whereas, in the more elevated parts, barley is the only grain that can be cultivated with any ſucceſs; and the crop is ſeldom cut before No⯑vember. About Sion, the fig, the me⯑lon, and all the other fruits of Italy, ripen to perfection: in conſequence of this ſingular variety of climates, I taſted in the ſame day (what is uſually to be had only in gradual ſucceſſion) ſtrawberries, cherries, plumbs, pears, and grapes; each of them the natural growth of the country.

With reſpect to manufactures; there [262] are none of any conſequence: and in⯑deed the general ignorance of the peo⯑ple is no leſs remarkable than their in⯑dolence; ſo that they may be conſidered, in regard to knowledge and improve⯑ments, as ſome centuries behind the Swiſs, who are certainly a very enlight⯑ened nation. The peaſants ſeldom en⯑deavour to meliorate thoſe lands where the ſoil is originally bad; nor to make the moſt of thoſe, which are uncommonly fertile: having few wants, and being ſatisfied with the ſpontaneous gifts of nature, they enjoy her bleſſings without much conſidering in what manner to improve them.

The beauties and varieties of this country you will find amply and faith⯑fully delineated in that elegant letter of the Nouvelle Heloiſe, where St. Preux relates his excurſion into the upper Val⯑lais. As to the truth of the deſcription he gives, in the ſame letter, of the man⯑ners of the people; I can hardly be [263] ſuppoſed to be a competent judge, from the little time I have paſſed among them. But, as far as I have had an opportunity to obſerve and inquire; the picture, although in ſome parts not en⯑tirely devoid of reſemblance, is, upon the whole, conſiderably heightened.

Before I take leave of the Vallais, you will probably expect, that, according to my promiſe, I ſhould ſend you ſome informations concerning the cauſes which are ſuppoſed to occaſion, or to contri⯑bute to render, goitrous perſons and idiots, ſo remarkably common in many parts of this country. I have indeed made all poſſible reſearches in order to gain ſome ſatisfactory intelligence upon ſo curious a ſubject; but I have the mortification to add, that the very faint lights I have been able to obtain, have left me almoſt as much in the dark as I was before: you muſt reſt contented therefore with mere conjectures.

I ſhall begin however with undoubted fact. The Vallaiſans are not all equally [264] ſubject to the above infirmities; but thoſe chiefly who live in or near the lower parts of the Vallais, as about Sider, Sion, Martinac, &c. The peo⯑ple in general are a robuſt and hardy race, as well thoſe who dwell in the places laſt-mentioned, as thoſe who in⯑habit the more mountainous parts of this country.

It is a common notion, that ſnow⯑water occaſions goiters: but I have ſome reaſon to think the contrary. For, I have been at ſeveral places, where the inhabitants drink no other water than what they procure from thoſe rivers and torrents, which deſcend from the gla⯑ciers; and yet are not ſubject to this malady: indeed I have been aſſured, though I will not venture to anſwer for the truth of the aſſertion, that ſnow⯑water, ſo far from being a cauſe, is eſteemed even a preventive. The air of the mountains is alſo a ſtrong pre⯑ſervative againſt them; and goiters have been known to diminiſh upon elevated [265] ſituations; whereas, in the lower parts of the Vallais, if this excreſcence once begins to ſhew itſelf, it always continues to encreaſe^*. Some diſtricts are more particularly remarkable for this diſorder than others: thus, in a little village, near Sion, almoſt all the inhabitants are goitrous.

From theſe facts it ſeems reaſonable to conclude, that goiters are derived from certain local circumſtances; and that ſeveral cauſes, both phyſical and moral, may jointly contribute to their production. Among the phyſical; bad water, and bad air, may, perhaps, be juſtly aſſigned, but chiefly the former; which, near the particular diſtricts above⯑mentioned, is ſtagnant, and loaded with particles of tufo. The torrents alſo, which are formed by the melting of the ſnows, diſſolve this ſubſtance, or ſimilar ones, in their paſſage: and probably [266] this circumſtance has given riſe to the notion, that ſnow-water, ſimply in it⯑ſelf, occaſions theſe goiters; but where⯑ever it has that effect, it is ſtrongly im⯑pregnated with certain ſtony particles. I was ſhewn ſeveral pools of theſe ſtag⯑nant waters, which I ſhould have ſup⯑poſed no human being to have been capable of drinking. Among the moral cauſes, which may be ſuppoſed to con⯑cur in occaſioning theſe guttural protu⯑berances; the inconceivable lazineſs and negligence of theſe people, may be men⯑tioned. For, they rarely take the leaſt precaution to guard againſt, or to re⯑medy, the ill effects of their unwhole⯑ſome water: indolently acquieſcing in its conſequences, they uſe no ſort of means either to prevent or remove them.

The ſame cauſes, which ſeem to pro⯑duce the goiters, probably operate in the caſe of idiots: for, wherever in this country the former abound, the latter are alſo in great numbers. Such in⯑deed [267] is the nice and inexplicable con⯑nection between our bodies and our minds, that the one ever ſympathiſes with the other: we ſee that the body ſuffers, whenever the mind is deeply af⯑fected by any ſtrong impreſſion of me⯑lancholy and diſtreſs; and, in return, that whenever the corporeal frame is im⯑paired and ſhattered by long pain and ſickneſs, the underſtanding alſo is equally out of order. Hence it is by no means an ill-grounded conjecture, that in the caſe before us, the ſame cauſes which affect the body ſhould alſo affect the mind; or, in other words, that the ſame waters, &c. which create obſtruc⯑tions, and goiters, ſhould alſo occaſion mental imbecillity and diſarrangement. But, in conjunction with cauſes of a phyſical nature, there is a moral one likewiſe to be taken into the account: for the children of the common people are totally neglected by their parents; and, with no more education than the [268] meaneſt brutes, are, like thoſe, ſuffered to wallow in the dirt, and to eat and drink whatever comes in their way.

I ſaw ſeveral idiots with goiters; but I do not mean to draw any certain con⯑cluſion from that circumſtance. For, though in general they are the children of goitrous parents, and have frequently thoſe ſwellings themſelves; yet the con⯑trary often happens: and they are ſome⯑times the offspring even of healthy pa⯑rents, whoſe other children are all properly organized. So that, it ſeems, the cauſes above-mentioned operate more or leſs upon ſome conſtitutions than upon others; as indeed is obſervable in all epidemical diſorders whatſoever^*.

[269] I was informed at Sion, that the number, both of goitrous perſons, and of idiots, have conſiderably decreaſed within theſe few years; and two reaſons were aſſigned: one is, the laudable care which the magiſtrates have taken to dry up the ſtagnant waters in the neighbour⯑hood; and the other, the cuſtom which now generally prevails of ſending the children to the mountains; by which means they eſcape the bad effects of the unwholeſome air and water.

It is to be preſumed, that a people accuſtomed to ſee theſe excreſcences daily, [270] will not be at all ſhocked at their defor⯑mity; but I do not find, as ſome writers aſſert, that they conſider them as beau⯑ties: I cannot believe that a Vallaiſan poet would venture to addreſs a copy of verſes to his miſtreſs in praiſe of her goiter. To judge by the accounts of ſome travellers, one might ſuppoſe, that all theſe people, without exception, were gifted with the above appendage: where⯑as, in fact, as I have before remarked, the Vallaiſans, in general, are a robuſt hardy race of people; and all that with truth can be affirmed, is, that goitrous perſons, and idiots, are more abundant here than perhaps in any other part of the globe.

It has been aſſerted alſo by ſome, that the people very much reſpect theſe idiots, and even conſider them as bleſ⯑ſings from Heaven; an aſſertion which is as ſtrongly contradicted by others. I made many inquiries in order to get at the truth of this matter. Upon my queſ⯑tioning [271] ſome gentlemen of this country, whom I met at the baths of Leuk, they treated the notion as abſurd and falſe: but whether they ſpoke their real ſen⯑timents, or were unwilling to confirm what they thought might lower their countrymen in the opinion of a ſtranger, will admit perhaps of ſome doubt. For I have, ſince that time, repeatedly en⯑quired among the lower ſort, and am convinced, that the common people eſteem them as bleſſings. They call them ‘"Souls of God, without ſin:"’ and there are many parents who prefer theſe idiot-children to thoſe whoſe under⯑ſtandings are perfect; becauſe, as they are incapable of intentional criminality, they conſider them as more certain than the others of happineſs in a future ſtate. Nor is this opinion entirely without ſome good effect; as it diſpoſes the pa⯑rents to pay the greater attention to thoſe unhappy beings, who are inca⯑pable of taking care of themſelves. Theſe [272] idiots are ſuffered to marry, as well among themſelves as with others; and thus the breed is, in ſome meaſure, pre⯑vented from becoming extinct^*.

LETTER XXII.

UPON quitting Trient, we went along ſome narrow vallies through foreſts of pines by the ſide of the torrent of Trient; and ſoon afterwards entered [274] the valley of Orſina, which led us to the ſmall village of that name: a little way [275] from Trient we entered the dutchy of Faucigny, which belongs to the king of Sardinia. Our road was very rugged, till we arrived at the vale of Chamouny; the great mountains and glaciers of Savoy riſing majeſtically before us.

There are five glaciers, which extend almoſt to the plain of the vale of Cha⯑mouny, and are ſeparated by wild foreſts, corn-fields, and rich meadows: ſo that immenſe tracts of ice are blended with the higheſt cultivation, and perpetually ſucceed to each other in the moſt ſingu⯑lar and ſtriking viciſſitude. All theſe ſeveral vallies of ice, which lie chiefly in the hollows of the mountains, and are ſome leagues in length, unite together at the foot of Mont Blanc; the higheſt mountain in Europe, and probably of the antient world.

According to the calculations of Mr. De Luc, (by whoſe improvement of the barometer, elevations are taken with a degree of accuracy before unattainable,) [276] the heighth of this mountain above the level of the ſea is 2391⅓ French toiſes. Mr. de Sauſſure, profeſſor of natural philoſophy at Geneva, has made uſe of the above barometer in meaſuring the elevation of ſeveral very conſiderable mountains. This great improvement of the barometer marks a diſtinguiſhed aera in the hiſtory of natural philoſo⯑phy; as, before it was rectified by that ingenious naturaliſt, Mr. de Luc, its uncertainty was ſo great, that there was no relying upon the menſurations, which had been taken by that inſtru⯑ment^*.

[277] I am convinced, from the ſituation of Mont Blanc; from the heighths of the [278] mountains around it; from its ſuperior elevation above them; and its being ſeen at a great diſtance from all ſides; that it is higher than any mountain in Swiſſerland; which, beyond a doubt, is, next to Mont Blanc, the higheſt ground in Europe. That it is more elevated than any part of Aſia and Africa, is an aſſertion that can only be made good by comparing the judicious calculations of modern travellers, with the exaggerated accounts of former ones; and by ſhew⯑ing that there is no mountain in thoſe two quarters of the globe, the altitude [279] whereof, when accurately taken, amounts to 2,400 toiſes^*.

Perhaps in no inſtance has the ima⯑gination of man been more creative, or more given to amplification, than in aſcertaining the heighths of mountains. I have been conſiderably amuſed to-day with conſidering this article in Gruner's deſcription of the Swiſs glaciers. In one of the chapters, he has given the altitude of ſome of the moſt remarkable [280] mountains of the globe, agreeably to the calculations of ſeveral famous geographers and travellers, both antient and modern.

But theſe ſeveral calculations are evi⯑dently ſo extravagant, that their exag⯑geration cannot but ſtrike the moſt common obſerver. If we conſult the more ^* modern and rational accounts, [281] it appears that the Pike of Teneriff and Aetna have been frequently ſuppoſed to be the higheſt mountains of the globe. The former is eſtimated by ſome natural philoſophers, to be 3,000 toiſes above the level of the ſea; but according to Feuillée, this elevation is [282] reduced to 2,070 toiſes (and this mea⯑ſurement too is probably ſomewhat be⯑yond the truth) whereas Aetna, by the accurate computations of Mr. De Sauſ⯑ſure, riſes only ^* 1672 toiſes above the [283] ſea. So that from theſe obſervations, as well as from thoſe which have been made by other travellers, whoſe ſkill may be depended upon, it will appear that there are few mountains, except thoſe in America, (the elevation where⯑of reaches, according to Condamine, to above 3,000 toiſes) which are equal in heighth to Mont Blanc.

The acceſs to Mont Blanc has been hitherto found impracticable. About two months ago four inhabitants of Chamouny attempted to reach it; and ſet out from that village at ten in the evening. After above fourteen hours moſt violent fatigue, employed in mount⯑ing rugged and dangerous aſcents, in croſſing ſeveral vallies of ice, and large plains of ſnow, which was in ſome parts [284] ſo looſe, that they ſunk in it down to the waiſt; they found themſelves upon the ſummit next to Mont Blanc. At firſt ſight it appeared ſcarce a league diſtant: however, they ſoon diſcovered that the clearneſs of the air, the extra⯑ordinary whiteneſs of the ſnow, and the heighth of that mountain, made it ſeem nearer than it was in reality; and, they perceived with regret, that it would require at leaſt four hours more to ar⯑rive at it, even ſuppoſing it were prac⯑ticable. But as the day was now far advanced, and the vapours towards the ſummit of Mont Blanc began to gather into clouds; they were obliged to return without having accompliſhed their en⯑terpriſe. They had no time to loſe: and as they were returning in great haſte, one of the party ſlipped down in attempting to leap over a chaſm of ice. He had in his hand a long pole, ſpiked with iron, which he had ſtruck into the ice on the other ſide of the [285] opening; and upon this he hung dreadfully ſuſpended for a few moments, until he was taken out by his com⯑panions. The danger he had juſt eſcaped, made ſuch an impreſſion upon him, that he fainted away, and continued for ſome time in that ſituation: he was at length, however, brought to himſelf, and, though conſiderably bruiſed, he ſufficiently recovered to be able to go on. They did not arrive at Chamouny till eight that evening, after having paſſed two and twenty hours of inconceivable fatigue, and being more than once in danger of loſing their lives in thoſe de⯑ſolate regions; but, as ſome ſort of recompence for ſo much danger and fatigue, they have the ſatisfaction, at leaſt, to boaſt of having approached nearer to Mont Blanc than any former adventurers^*.

LETTER XXIII.

AUGUST 23d, (the day of our arrival at Chamouny) we mounted by the ſide of the glacier of Boſſon, in order to ſee les Murailles de glace, ſo called from their reſemblance to walls: they conſiſt of large ranges of ice of prodigious thickneſs and ſolidity, riſing abruptly from their baſe, and parallel to each other. Some of theſe ranges ap⯑peared to us about an hundred and fifty feet high; but if we may believe our [287] guides, they are four hundred feet above their real baſe. Near them were py⯑ramids and cones of ice of all forms and ſizes, and ſhooting up to a very conſiderable heighth, in the moſt beauti⯑ful and fantaſtic ſhapes imaginable. From this glacier, which we croſſed without much difficulty, we had a fine view of the vale of Chamouny.

The 24th. We had propoſed ſallying forth this morning very early, in order to go to the valley of ice, in the glacier of Montenvert, and to penetrate as far [288] as the time would admit; but the wea⯑ther proving cloudy, and likely to rain, we deferred ſetting out till nine, when appearances gave us the hope of its clearing up. Accordingly we procured three excellent guides, and aſcended on horſeback ſome part of the way over the mountain which leads to the gla⯑cier above-mentioned: we were then obliged to diſmount, and ſcrambled up the reſt of the mountains (chiefly co⯑vered with pines) along a ſteep and rugged path, called ‘"the road of the chryſtal-hunters."’ From the ſummit of the Montenvert we deſcended a little to the edge of the glacier; and made a refreſhing meal upon ſome cold proviſion which we brought with us. A large block of granite, called ‘"La pierre des Anglois,"’ ſerved us for a table; and near us was a miſerable hovel, where thoſe, who make expeditions towards Mont Blanc, frequently paſs the night. The ſcene around us was magnificent [289] and ſublime; numberleſs rocks riſing boldly above the clouds, (ſome of whoſe tops were bare, others covered with ſnow.) Many of theſe gradually dimi⯑niſhing towards their ſummits, end in ſharp points: and from this circumſtance they are called the Needles ^*. Between theſe rocks the valley of ice ſtretches ſeveral leagues in length, and is nearly a mile broad; extending on one ſide towards Mont Blanc, and, on the other, towards the plain of Chamouny.

After we had ſufficiently refreſhed ourſelves, we prepared for our adven⯑ture acroſs the ice. We had each of us a long pole ſpiked with iron; and, in order to ſecure us as much as poſſible from ſlipping, the guides faſtened to [290] our ſhoes crampons, conſiſting of a ſmall bar of iron, to which are fixed four ſmall ſpikes of the ſame metal. The difficulty of croſſing theſe valleys of ice, ariſes from the immenſe chaſms. They are produced by ſeveral cauſes; but more particularly by the continual melt⯑ing of the interior ſurface: this fre⯑quently occaſions a ſinking of the ice; and under ſuch circumſtances, the whole maſs is ſuddenly rent aſunder in that particular place with a moſt violent ex⯑ploſion. We rolled down large ſtones into ſeveral of them; and the great length of time before they reached the bottom, gave us ſome conception of their depth: our guides aſſured us, that in ſome places they are five hundred feet deep. I can no otherwiſe convey to you an image of this immenſe body of ice, conſiſting of continued irregu⯑lar ridges and deep chaſms, than by re⯑ſembling it to a raging ſea, that had been inſtantaneouſly frozen in the midſt of a violent ſtorm.

[291] We began our walk with great ſlowneſs and deliberation, but we gra⯑dually gained more courage and confi⯑dence as we advanced; and we ſoon found that we could ſafely paſs along thoſe parts, where the aſcent and deſcent were not very conſiderable, much faſter even than when walking at the rate of our common pace: in other parts we leaped over the clefts, and ſlid down the ſteeper deſcents as well as we could. In one place, where we deſcended and ſtepped acroſs an opening upon a nar⯑row ridge of ice ſcarce three inches broad; we were obliged to tread with peculiar caution: for, on each ſide were chaſms of a great depth. We walked ſome paces ſideways along this ridge; ſtept acroſs the chaſm into a little hol⯑low, which the guides made on purpoſe for our feet; and got up an aſcent by means of ſmall holes which we made with the ſpikes of our poles. All this ſounds terrible; but at the time we [292] had none of us the leaſt apprehenſions of danger, as the guides were ex⯑ceedingly careful, and took excellent precautions. One of our ſervants had the courage to follow us without cram⯑pons, and with no nails to his ſhoes; which was certainly dangerous, on ac⯑count of the ſlipperineſs of the leather when wetted. He got along however ſurpriſingly well; though in ſome places we were alarmed, leſt he ſhould ſlip upon the edge of one of thoſe chaſms: for had that accident happened to any of us, we muſt inevitably have been loſt; having neglected to provide ourſelves with long ropes in caſe of ſuch an event. This man was probably the firſt perſon, who ever ventured acroſs the valley of ice, without either crampons or nails to his ſhoes.

We were now almoſt arrived at the other extremity, when we were ſtopped by a chaſm ſo broad, that there was no poſſibility of paſſing it; and we were [293] obliged to make a circuit of above a quarter of a mile, in order to get round this vaſt opening. This will give you ſome idea of the difficulty attending ex⯑curſions over ſome of theſe glaciers: and our guides informed us, that when they hunt the chamois and the marmottes, in theſe deſolate regions; theſe unavoidable cir⯑cuits generally carry them ſix or ſeven miles about, when they would have only two miles to go if they could proceed in a ſtraight line. A ſtorm threatening us every moment, we were obliged to haſten off the glacier as faſt as poſſible: for, rain renders the ice exceedingly ſlippery; and in caſe of a fog (which generally accom⯑panies a ſtorm in theſe upper regions) our ſituation would have been extremely dangerous. And indeed we had no time to loſe; for the tempeſt began juſt as we had quitted the ice; and ſoon became very violent, attended with frequent flaſhes of lightning, and loud peals of thunder, which being re-echoed within [294] the hollows of the mountains, added great⯑ly to the awful ſublimity of the ſcene.

We now deſcended a very ſteep preci⯑pice, and for ſome way were obliged to crawl upon our hands and feet down a bare rock; the ſtorm at the ſame time roaring over us, and rendering the rock extremely ſlippery: we were by this time quite wet through, but we got to the bottom however without much hurt. Upon obſerving the immenſe extent of theſe glaciers, I could not help remark⯑ing (and it is a circumſtance which many other travellers have obſerved be⯑fore) what a fund is here laid up for the ſupply of rivers; and that the ſources which give riſe to the Rhine, the Rhone, and the Po will never fail. I returned at length to the inn, as dripping wet as if I had been plunged into water; but perfectly ſatisfied with my expedi⯑tion. At Grindelwald, and at Lauter⯑brunnen, I had ſcarcely ſeen a glacier, owing to the ignorance of the guides; [295] and this induced me to ſuſpect, that all which had been ſaid of them was greatly exaggerated^*. But I now change my tone, and am vexed that we were ſo preſſed for time, that we could not con⯑tinue any longer at Chamouny; for, I ſhould have had great pleaſure in mak⯑ing different excurſions towards Mont Blanc; and in penetrating further into thoſe deſolate but magnificent regions.

I cannot conceive any ſubject in na⯑tural hiſtory more curious than the for⯑mation and progreſs of theſe glaciers, running far into fields of corn and rich paſture; and lying, without being melted, in a ſituation where the ſun has power ſufficient to ripen the fruits of the field: it is literally true, that with one hand we could touch ice, and with the other ripe corn. But, as this is a ſubject too important to be treated ſuperficially, and requires much accu⯑rate [296] obſervation, and repeated experi⯑mental inveſtigation; I ſhall not at⯑tempt to enter into it. I will beg leave however to trouble you with one ob⯑ſervation, which I made: and it will ſerve to prove the occaſional encreaſe and diminution of the glaciers; contrary to the opinion of ſome philoſophers, who advance that they remain always the ſame; and of others who aſſert, that they are continually encreaſing. I think I may venture to aſſert, that both theſe poſitions are equally untenable; and it happens in this, as in many other ſubjects, that experience and truth are ſacrificed to the ſupporting of a fa⯑vourite hypotheſis. Indeed the fact ſeems to be, that theſe glaciers in ſome years encreaſe conſiderably in extent, while in others they recede; and of this I am perfectly convinced from the fol⯑lowing circumſtances:

The borders of the valley of ice of the glacier of Montenvert, are moſtly [297] ſkirted with trees: towards its foot a vaſt arch of ice riſes to near an hundred feet in heighth; from under which, the continued droppings from the melting of the ice and ſnow are collected toge⯑ther, and form the Arveron; which ruſhes forth with conſiderable force, and in a large body of water. As we ap⯑proached the extremity of this arch, we paſſed through a wood of firs: thoſe which ſtand at a little diſtance from the ice are about eighty feet high, and are undoubtedly of a very great age. Be⯑tween theſe and the glacier the trees are of a later growth; as is evident as well from their inferior ſize, as from their texture and ſhape. Others, which reſemble the latter, have been overturned, and enveloped in the ice: in all theſe ſeveral trees, reſpective⯑ly ſituated in the ſpots I have men⯑tioned, there ſeems to be a kind of regular gradation in their age, from the largeſt ſize to thoſe that lie proſtrate.

[298] Theſe facts fairly lead, it ſhould ſeem, to the following concluſions:—that the glacier once extended as far as the row of tall firs; that, upon its retiring, a number of trees have ſhot up in the very ſpots which it formerly occupied; that, within ſome years, the glacier has again begun to advance; and in its progreſs has overturned the trees of later date, before they have had time to grow up to any conſiderable heighth.

To theſe circumſtances, another fact may be added, which appears to me con⯑vincing. There are large ſtones of gra⯑nite, which are found only at a ſmall diſtance from the extremities of the gla⯑cier. Theſe are vaſt fragments, which have certainly fallen down from the mountains upon the ice; have been carried on by the glacier in its en⯑creaſe; and have tumbled into the plain upon the melting or ſinking of the ice, which ſupported them. Theſe ſtones, which the inhabitants call Mareme, form a kind of border, towards the foot of [299] the valley of ice, and have been puſhed forward by the glacier in its advances: they extend even to the place occupied by the larger pines.

As we proceeded from Chamouny, the heighth of the mountains gradually diminiſhed; and the ſeveral valleys through which we paſſed, were diverſi⯑fied in their figures and productions in a very agreeable manner. Theſe ſcenes, to travellers who come from the more cultivated and leſs romantic parts of Swiſſerland, muſt appear infinitely aſto⯑niſhing; but with reſpect to ourſelves, who are lately arrived from the wildeſt country and the moſt barren rocks, they made but little impreſſion.

We followed the courſe of the Arve, which takes its riſe from the glacier of Argentiere; and ruſhes along in a ſono⯑rous torrent great part of the way. Not far from Salenche we came to a deſcent, where on our right-hand was a ſmall lake formed by a ſtream, that burſts [300] from the rock; and from this lake iſſues a current which falls into the Arve: the ſituation was pictureſque, and the bor⯑ders of the little lake, ſkirted with wood, were extremely pleaſing and variegated. From hence we deſcended into the plain, which continues almoſt perfectly level to Geneva. Salenche lies at the bottom of a broad valley, which here contracts to a narrow paſs. Tradition ſays, that this little plain was once a lake; and indeed its form, and the quality of the ſoil, ſeem to juſtify tradition: great part is laid waſte by the unruly Arve, which frequently overflows its banks; and the reſt is moſtly covered with fruit⯑trees.

Not far from Magland we ſtopped to admire a beautiful fall of water, called the caſcade of Arpenas: it is a torrent, which ruſhes, like the Staubbach, from an impending rock. When I ſaw it, there was a conſiderable wind, which drove the torrent, ſoon after its leaving the rock, at [301] leaſt an hundred yards out of the perpen⯑dicular direction, into an almoſt imper⯑ceptible ſpray: I then beheld it trickling down the ſides of the mountains in a thouſand little ſtreams, which united at a ridge of the rock; and from thence formed three caſcades, all different from each other. The body of water was much more conſiderable than that of the Staubbach, and the fall appeared to me altogether as high. Between Mag⯑land and Cluſe we took a guide to con⯑duct us to the cave of Baume; of which we had read a moſt magnificent deſcrip⯑tion. Though the aſcent was not very high, yet it was ſo ſteep that we were nearly an hour in reaching it: we then ſcrambled along an ugly precipice, from which we mounted a ladder; and by the aid of the branches of a nut-tree growing out of the rock at the mouth of the cave, we pulled ourſelves into a natural cavern more than a quarter of a mile in length, and forming various [302] branches that led into lofty vaults and ſpacious openings. A man of a very warm imagination, might perhaps have diſcovered a magnificent chapel with a natural cupola, an arſenal, the ruins of a ſumptuous palace, &c.; but as for my part, I ſaw only a ſpacious cave, covered with ſtalactites, ſpars, and petrifactions, which ſhone beautifully enough, but which I have ſeen in al⯑moſt all the natural caverns I ever en⯑tered: nor was this ſo tranſcendently beautiful, as to anſwer the trouble it coſt us to get into it.

We paſſed the night at Cluſe, which is ſituated in a rich plain by the ſide of the Arve; and the next morning came down the banks of that river to Bonneville, the capital of the dutchy of Faucigny: it ſtands alſo upon the Arve, at the bottom of a chain of rocks, which from this place diminiſh into hills. All this part of Faucigny, as alſo a ſmall ſtrip of the Chablais through [303] which we paſſed, is a rich plain, that produces wine and corn in great plen⯑ty: but it is neither very populous nor perfectly well cultivated. By the little village of Chene we entered into the ter⯑ritory of Geneva: the ſudden change from the poverty of the Savoyards to the neatneſs and eaſe of theſe people; the populouſneſs of the country, the richneſs of its cultivation; and the number of country-houſes ſcattered a⯑bout the fields like ours in England, were circumſtances that affected me with the moſt pleaſing admiration.

LETTER XXIV.

AS I propoſe viſiting Geneva again, in my way to the ſouth of France, I will defer ſending you any account of that intereſting town until my return; [304] when, as I intend paſſing a ſhort time there, I hope to get ſome farther infor⯑mation concerning the government, &c. which I will not fail of communicating to you.

We went from Geneva to Craſſi, a ſmall village in the Pays de Vaud, where we paſſed a day with one of our coun⯑trymen, who has taken a houſe for the ſummer in that delightful ſpot. In our way to Craſſi we went through Verſoi, a little village in the French territories, upon the lake of Geneva: it goes by the name of Choiſeul's folly. Geneva having fallen under the diſpleaſure of France; that miniſter endeavouring to take advantage of the late troubles in 1768, laid a plan to ruin that town, and to monopoliſe the whole trade of the lake. Accordingly he fixed upon Verſoi as a ſituation the moſt proper upon which to build a large town. For this purpoſe he began by ſinking a pier and making an harbour: he conſtructed alſo [305] a frigate; marked out the ſtreets; ſent a conſiderable quantity of ſtone to build the houſes; ordered a garriſon, and erected huts for them, in which they continued ſome time. In ſhort, the borders of the lake for ſome way are ſtrewed with all kinds of materials for building. Nevertheleſs, when the har⯑bour was nearly finiſhed, and govern⯑ment had expended near three millions of livres; the whole ſcheme was given up. But the harbour, the huts, and the materials for building ſtill remain, diſ⯑graceful monuments of his ill-concerted project.

This Pays de Vaud is a country, of which all hiſtorians and travellers, who have had occaſion to mention it, ſpeak with rapture; particularly of that part which borders upon the lake of Geneva: and indeed a more delightful country can⯑not well be imagined. It is, almoſt the whole way, a gradual aſcent from the edge of the lake, richly laid out in vine⯑yards, [306] corn-fields, and luxuriant mea⯑dows; and checkered with continued ham⯑lets, villages, and towns: the ſhores are generally of the cleaneſt gravel; and the water is of ſo fine a tranſparency, that you may ſee the bottom to a very con⯑ſiderable depth.

We paſſed through Nyon, which ſtands upon the edge of the lake, and in the very point where it begins to widen. It was formerly called Colonia Equeſtris No⯑vidunum; and, as a proof of its antiquity, ſeveral Roman inſcriptions, and other an⯑tient remains, have been frequently dug up in the out-ſkirts of the town. Between St. Pres and Morges, the lake forms a beautiful bay: theſe towns are ſituated upon the two points which jut out into the water; the whole forming an amphitheatre gently riſing to the Jura.

All the poſſeſſions in this country which belonged to the duke of Savoy, were wreſted from him in the war which the canton of Berne declared [307] againſt him, in 1536, in defence of Geneva: and the ſame year the refor⯑mation was introduced. From that pe⯑riod all the Pays de Vaud (excepting the common bailliages of Grandſon, Orbe, and a ſmall portion of it which was ceded to Fribourg) has been ſubject to Berne, and makes part of that canton.

Lauſanne is built upon an aſcent ſo ſteep, that in ſome places it is with great difficulty the horſes can draw up a carri⯑age; and foot-paſſengers mount towards the upper part of the town by flights of ſteps, which lean againſt the rock. But theſe inconveniences are amply com⯑penſated by the ſublimeſt views in na⯑ture: the principal object is the lake of Geneva, ſhaped like a bow; the arc of which is formed by the Pays de Vaud, and the cord by the coaſt of Chablais. From Geneva to Villeneuve, the two extremities of this lake, may be an extent of above forty miles: it varies [308] in its breadth; the narroweſt part is ſcarce three miles acroſs, and from Rolles to Thonon about fifteen. It is not altogether ſo large as that of Conſtance, but the ſcenery is far more grand and pictureſque.

The ſame year in which part of the Pays de Vaud was conquered from the houſe of Savoy, the inhabitants of this town expelled the biſhop, and put them⯑ſelves under the protection and ſovereign⯑ty of the canton of Berne; which con⯑firmed all their privileges, and added others. At preſent, Lauſanne is governed by its own magiſtrates; has its own courts of juſtice; and, what is very ſingular, the citizens who inhabit the principal ſtreet have the privilege of pronouncing ſen⯑tence in criminal cauſes. The criminal is tried by the civil power; if he is found, and acknowledges himſelf, guilty (for his own confeſſion is neceſſary, otherwiſe he is put to the torture until [309] he confeſſes) the burghers of this ſtreet aſſemble; an advocate pleads in defence of the priſoner, and another againſt him; the court of juſtice give their opinion upon the point of law; and the majority of the burghers in queſtion determine the penalty. If the puniſh⯑ment be capital, there is, ſtrictly ſpeak⯑ing, no pardon, except it be obtained within twenty-four hours from the ſo⯑vereign council of Berne; although it generally happens that eight days are granted for that purpoſe. When the criminal is ſeized within the juriſdic⯑tion of the town; the proſecution is tried, and the burghers pronounce their ſentence, in the town-hall: and in this caſe there is no appeal. But, when he is taken within the diſtrict of the bailiff, they aſſemble in his houſe; and an appeal lies from their determi⯑nation to Berne. I have been the more particular in my enquiries concerning the mode of this criminal proceſs, from [310] the ſtrong reſemblance it bears in many reſpects to our trial by juries.

Here is a celebrated academy for the ſtudents of this country; as there is another at Berne for thoſe of the German diſtrict: profeſſors in every ſcience are appointed by government; and there is a tolerable library for the uſe of the public. The manage of Mr. De Mezery, is by far the beſt of a great number we have ſeen: his ſkill in horſemanſhip, and judicious manner of conveying his inſtructions, deſerves the higheſt encomiums. His poſition and fi⯑gure are firm and elegant, and the horſes, which are reſerved for his own riding, are dreſſed with great taſte and preciſion. His method of diſciplining them is mild; becauſe, from his perfect knowledge of the nature of the animal, he forces them to nothing which they are not well qualified to perform.

I have had the good fortune, ſeveral times, to meet Tiſſot, the celebrated phy⯑ſician [311] of this place; well known in the literary world for his excellent writings upon ſeveral medical ſubjects. His con⯑verſation is uncommonly intereſting; as, beſides his ſkill in his profeſſion, he is well verſed in every branch of polite literature. His private character is no leſs reſpect⯑able than his public; and he is as much eſteemed for his great humanity as for his ſuperior knowledge.

Lauſanne at preſent contains ſcarcely ſeven thouſand inhabitants; whereas, a few years ago, there were at leaſt ten thouſand: and indeed the whole Pays de Vaud is much leſs peopled than it was during the laſt century. This depopula⯑tion is owing to the encreaſe of luxury; which prevents the gentry from enter⯑ing into matrimonial engagements ſo generally as they were heretofore ac⯑cuſtomed; and induces numbers of them continually to emigrate in order to engage in foreign ſervices. For, al⯑though the government of Berne is [312] certainly very mild, and never lays on any additional taxes, nor ever encroaches upon the privileges of their ſubjects; yet, as the gentry are totally excluded from any ſhare in the adminiſtration of public affairs, and commerce is reckoned degrading, they have no other reſource but in foreign ſervices. For this reaſon, many of them are male⯑contents, and would gladly exchange the mild republican form, under which they live, for a monarchical mode of government.

The road from hence to Vevay, is moſt delightful: it lies along the ſides of the mountains, between continued ranges of beautiful vineyards. The induſtry of the Swiſs is no where more obſerv⯑able than in theſe parts: the moun⯑tains in many places, though naturally conſiſting of a bare ſteep rock, are co⯑vered thick with vines. The ſoil has been brought from other grounds, and is ſupported by rows of little ſtone walls [313] raiſed from the edge of the lake to the heights above. This diſtrict between Lauſanne and Vevay is called La Vaux, and contains the two pleaſant little towns of Lutry and Cully; as alſo the two villages of St. Saphorin ^* and Corſier: it is entirely hilly, riſing ab⯑ruptly [314] from the lake. Above the vine⯑yards are rich meadows, and a continued foreſt.

Vevay is the principal town of the bailliage of that name: it is clean and well-built, ſtands at the foot of the mountains on the edge of the water, and is one of the few towns in the can⯑ton of Berne which carries on any conſiderable trade. The borders of this part of the lake are much more con⯑traſted, wild, and pictureſque, than thoſe about Geneva: the alps of Savoy boldly jut out into the water, and form a ſemicircular chain of mountains that encloſe the lake, except where they are divided by the Rhone; which flows into it a few leagues from Vevay.

Near Vevay is Clarens, and oppoſite is Meillerie: theſe are the ſcenes of Rouſſeau's Heloiſe. Accordingly I hired that novel at a circulating library in Lauſanne; and continued, all the way I paſſed, examining the poſition of the [315] country, and comparing it with the de⯑ſcriptions by that celebrated author. Little things may be magnified; but no pencil, however animated, can come up to the wonderful and ſublime works of nature; and even the warm colouring of Rouſſeau has not equalled the beauty of the ſituation. I read with attention the principal parts of that admirable performance; and now that I had the ſcenery, as it were, before my eyes, I enjoyed in the peruſal ſenſations which I had never felt before. I dwelt more particularly, and with infinite pleaſure, upon that fine letter, in which St. Preux relates his expedition to Meillerie acroſs the lake: I conſider it as the maſter⯑piece of the whole compoſition; where the paſſions of love and deſpair are worked up almoſt to madneſs. I ob⯑ſerved the dark gloomy rocks of Meil⯑lerie; and am convinced, from the ap⯑pearance of the oppoſite ſhore, that, had I been on the other ſide, I could have [316] diſcovered the very place to which St. Preux led his Julia, and of which he gives ſo enchanting a deſcription. For, al⯑though there are no traces of any hiſtory like that of Julia in theſe parts; yet the ſcenery is ſtrongly marked: and I am ſatisfied that almoſt every ſpot, which is mentioned in the letters, actually exiſts in this romantic country. For, Rouſſeau himſelf paſſed ſome time at different parts on the borders of the lake, and particularly at Meillerie, about that period of his life when he may be ſuppoſed to have written his Heloiſe. Open that performance, read that let⯑ter, and conſider that part of it, where St. Preux points out the number of towns and villages, the continued fer⯑tility and high cultivation of the Pays de Vaud, and then contraſts it with the barren rocks of Chablais, exhibiting here and there a few inſulated towns, which lie upon the very edge of the water; you will ſee at once, and in the ſame [317] point of view, the fatal influence of deſpotiſm, and the happy effects which ariſe from the moſt aſſured liberty, under a mild and equitable government.

LETTER XXV.

THE chain of mountains called the Jura, begins in the canton of Zuric, from thence extends along the Rhine, into the canton and biſhopric of Baſil, ſtretches into the canton of So⯑leure and the principality of Neucha⯑tel, branches out towards the Pays de Vaud, ſeparates that country from Franche Comtè and Burgundy, and continues beyond the frontiers of the Genevois as far as the Rhone. In va⯑rious parts this chain of mountains [318] forms numberleſs ſmall vallies upon the heighths; ſeveral of which are contained within the diſtrict of the Pays de Vaud.

The valley of the lake of Joux, is ſo called from a lake of that name, upon the top of that part of the Jura called Mount Joux; and which lies in the bailliage of Romain Motier. It is about twelve miles by five; of which a circuit of above twelve miles is oc⯑cupied by two lakes cloſe to each other, and which formerly, without doubt, made but one: the largeſt of theſe is called the lake of Joux. This valley contains ſeveral ſmall villages conſidera⯑bly peopled; and the whole is beauti⯑fully checkered with fine foreſts, rich meadows, or flouriſhing fields of bar⯑ley and oats. Beſides theſe two lakes, a little farther is a third, which lies in Franche Comtè. One ſhore of the largeſt of theſe lakes, is high rock, covered with wood; the oppoſite ſhore is a gentle aſcent, well cultivated and [319] producing grain, backed by an abrupt ridge adorned with pines, beech, and oak. The ſmall lake cloſe to it, is in its ſhape more oval, richly bordered with corn-fields and cottages.

Near the ſmall village of Abbaye, a rivulet guſhes from the bottom of the rock, and loſes itſelf in the largeſt lake; the water whereof has no apparent out⯑let, but has certainly a ſubterraneous communication with the ſmaller lake. On the oppoſite ſhore of the latter, a ſtream iſſues out, turns ſome mills, and then is loſt in a hollow gulph, formed (I ſuppoſe by the force of the current) in a perpendicular rock. About two miles farther, on the other ſide of the mountain, the river Orbe burſts forth, and is probably produced by the laſt⯑mentioned ſtream here ingulphed.

This little vale is very populous, containing about three thouſand inha⯑bitants, all of them remarkably induſ⯑trious. Some few make watches, but [320] the greateſt part are employed in poliſh⯑ing cryſtals, granites, marcaſites, &c. In the ſmall village of Pont, where we lodged, all the inhabitants, except one family, bear the ſurname of Rochat; a name which alſo runs through the whole village of Charboniere, with the exception of only two families; and is prevalent likewiſe in that of Ab⯑baye: the whole number of theſe Ro⯑chats amounts to above a thouſand. I enquired whether they took the ap⯑pellation from any chief, as the Scot⯑tiſh clans do; or whether they were ſuppoſed to be deſcendents of the ſame family: I was aſſured, that the latter is the fact, and that their anceſtors came originally from France.

In our aſcent to this delightful vale, and as we deſcended through a variety of hill, valley, wood, and lawn; we had a moſt extenſive proſpect, compre⯑hending great part of the Pays de Vaud, the lake of Geneva with its moun⯑tainous [321] boundary, and that of Neu⯑chatel. Theſe two lakes appear, from that high point of view, to be nearly upon the ſame level^*, with no conſi⯑derable ſwell of the country interven⯑ing.

We paſſed through the beautiful val⯑ley of Romain Motier to Orbe; which, according to antiquarians, was the moſt antient town, and once the moſt power⯑ful, of all Helvetia. It was called Urba, and was the capital of the Pagus Ur⯑bigenus: no remains however exiſt at preſent of its antient ſplendour. Some antique fortifications, an old caſtle, and a round tower, are works probably of later and more turbulent times: they were erected, perhaps, when this coun⯑try was divided into a number of petty ſovereignties.

Orbe is an old town, placed in a very romantic ſituation: the country which [322] lies round it, is chiefly planted with vines. The town, which is governed by its own magiſtrates, is compriſed within the bailliage of Echalens, belong⯑ing to Berne and Fribourg: theſe two cantons alternately ſend a bailiff, who reſides at Echalens, and remains in of⯑fice during five years. When Berne ap⯑points the bailiff, an appeal lies from his deciſions to the ſovereign council of Fribourg; as it does to the government of Berne, when he is nominated by Fribourg. By theſe means a great check is laid upon the exactions of the bailiff: and I am informed, that juſtice is no where more equally adminiſtered than in theſe common bailliages of the two cantons above-mentioned.

From Orbe we deſcended into the plain, which ſtretches to the lake of Yverdun. This plain was formerly covered as far as Entreroches (three leagues from its preſent poſition) and probably farther, by that lake: it is [323] now, for a conſiderable part, a great ſwamp. We have taken up our lodgings at the baths of Yverdun, within a quar⯑ter of a mile of the town: theſe baths are ſtrongly ſulphureous, and much fre⯑quented during the ſummer months.

Yverdun is large, airy, and well⯑built with ſtone; like all the towns I have hitherto ſeen in the Pays de Vaud: it ſtands not far from the lake, in a ſmall iſland formed by the two branches of the river Thiele. Between the town and the lake there is a pleaſant lawn extending to the water, and planted with avenues of lime-trees. As one looks from this plain along the lake, it is ſkirted with high land, except on the oppoſite northern ſhore, the middle part of which is quite flat, and has much the appearance of a ſea view.

Yverdun carries on ſome trade, has a few manufactures of muſlin and linen, and is one of the paſſages for the mer⯑chandiſe which is brought from Pied⯑mont [324] to Germany. Literature flouriſhes to a very great degree in this town; which is celebrated alſo for its printing⯑preſs. This preſs was eſtabliſhed the beginning of the preſent century; but was entirely neglected until ſome years ago, when it was renewed, with more ſucceſs and with higher reputation than ever, by Felice, a Neapolitan of great learning and abilities.

The lake of Yverdun, or of Neu⯑chatel, ſtretches from ſouth to north about twenty miles in length, and in ſome places about five in breadth. The ſouth-eaſt part of it, where we now are, is covered with country-houſes, be⯑longing chiefly to the inhabitants of Berne. To-day we dined with a gen⯑tleman of that town, a member of the ſovereign council; whoſe acquaintance we made at the baths of Leuk: his country-houſe ſtands cloſe to the water at the village of Clendy; commanding a pleaſant proſpect of the lake, and of the adjacent country.

[325] It is ſomewhat extraordinary, that the Swiſs (whoſe country abounds with ſituations inconceivably noble and pic⯑tureſque, and where Nature wantons in all the luxuriant variety of her moſt ſtrik⯑ing beauties) that the Swiſs ſhould have adopted the dull and taſteleſs unifor⯑mity of the French gardens. I have frequently obſerved, in the midſt of theſe romantic ſcenes, a majeſtic foreſt ſliced out into little regular allies; and at the very borders of the fine lakes, artificial pools of water edged with ſun-burnt parterres.

LETTER XXVI.

WE ſkirted the weſt ſide of the lake, through Grandſon, the principal town of a bailliage of that name, be⯑longing [326] to Berne and Fribourg, and remarkable for the battle in which Charles the Bold, duke of Burgundy, was defeated by the Swiſs in 1476. We entered the principality of Neuchatel about ſix miles from that town, and paſſed through St. Aubin, Boudri, Co⯑lombier, &c. each of them pleaſant vil⯑lages upon the borders of the water. The road runs along the ſide of the Jura, with the lake lying below it, through a country that reſembled, in ſome meaſure, the diſtrict of La Vaux between Lauſanne and Vevay: the ſides of the Jura are almoſt the whole way covered with vines, ſupported in many parts by low ſtone walls. The bor⯑ders of the lake are more uniform than thoſe of the lake of Geneva; and do not riſe into ſuch high, irregular, and groteſque alps as the coaſt of Chablais. Towards Grandſon and St. Aubin, the country is more diverſified with mea⯑dows and corn-fields; but nearer to [327] Neuchatel the upper parts of the moun⯑tains are cloathed with foreſt, and the midland and lower parts entirely planted with vines.

Between the lake and the Jura there are ſeveral rivers, which burſt out from the rock in very conſiderable ſtreams; and, after turning ſeveral mills, fall into the lake at a little diſtance from their ſource: moſt of the rivers in this country are formed in the ſame man⯑ner. The largeſt of theſe is that of La Serriere, near a ſmall village of the ſame name, which we croſſed to-day in our way to Colombier, where we dined with a family whoſe acquaintance we made at the baths of Leuk. We paſſed a very agreeable day with theſe amia⯑ble perſons; by whom we were receiv⯑ed with that frankneſs and unaffected eaſe which characteriſes true politeneſs. Indeed I cannot ſpeak too highly of that genuine and unartful good-breeding, which, in general, diſtinguiſhes the Swiſs gentry.

[328] After dinner ſome muſicians of the country gave us the Renz des vaches: that famous air which was forbidden to be played among the Swiſs troops in the French ſervice; as it awakened in the ſol⯑diers ſuch a longing recollection of their native country, that it often produced in them a ſettled melancholy, and occa⯑ſioned frequent deſertion. The French call this ſpecies of patriotic regret la maladie du pays. There is nothing, I think, peculiarly ſtriking in this tune; but, as it ſeems to be compoſed of the moſt ſimple notes, the powerful effect its melody has been found to have upon the Swiſs ſoldiers, in a foreign land, is the leſs ſurpriſing. Nothing indeed revives ſo lively a remembrance of for⯑mer ſcenes, as a piece of favourite muſic which we were accuſtomed to hear amidſt our earlieſt and deareſt con⯑nections: upon ſuch an occaſion, a long train of aſſociated ideas will neceſſarily ariſe in the mind, and, if not totally [329] ſelfiſh, melt it into tenderneſs. It is ob⯑ſervable, that thoſe who inhabit moun⯑tainous countries are more ſubject to this maladie du pays than others: and no wonder; as their habits of life are eſſentially different from what they find in other parts. Accordingly, the Scotch highlanders, and the Biſcayans, as well as the Swiſs, when abſent from their country, are peculiarly apt to be affected with every thing that recalls it to their minds.

Under the general name of Swiſſer⯑land, as underſtood by foreigners, the principality of Neuchatel and Vallengin, together with the Griſons, the Vallais, and the republic of Geneva, are all com⯑priſed: but, ſtrictly ſpeaking, theſe are only allies of the Swiſs, and do not form any part of that diſtrict, which is called Swiſſerland by the natives. The prin⯑cipality of Neuchatel and Vallengin are in alliance with the four neighbouring cantons, Berne, Lucerne, Fribourg, and [330] Soleure: but beſides this general con⯑federacy, the town of Neuchatel has a particular connection with the canton of Berne; the inhabitants of the for⯑mer being conſidered as com-burghers or fellow-citizens with thoſe of the laſt⯑mentioned canton. The whole princi⯑pality contains near forty thouſand in⯑habitants; of which there are three thouſand in the capital: it is there the governor reſides, and the general admini⯑ſtration of public affairs is carried on.

The town of Neuchatel is ſmall. It lies partly upon the little plain between the lake and the Jura, and partly upon the declivity of that mountain: in con⯑ſequence of which ſituation, ſome of its ſtreets are rather ſteep. At the com⯑mencement of the preſent century, com⯑merce was almoſt wholly a ſtranger here; as the ridiculous pride of its being deem⯑ed degrading generally prevailed among them. This ſenſeleſs prejudice is now, however, well-nigh worn out; and a [331] conſiderable trade is carried on. The chief article of their exportation is wine, produced from the neighbouring vine⯑yards, and much eſteemed. Several manufactures alſo of cotton and muſlin have been eſtabliſhed with ſucceſs: and within theſe few years, the merchants of this town have raiſed large fortunes.

LETTER XXVII.

I AM charmed with an expedition we have juſt been making to the ſum⯑mit of the Jura; and I will give you a ſhort account of it, while the impreſ⯑ſion remains warm upon my mind.

The principality of Neuchatel and Vallengin, ſtretches from the lake to the limits of Franche Comtè; contain⯑ing in length, from north to ſouth, about [332] twelve leagues, and about ſix in its greateſt breadth. The principality of Neuchatel occupies all the plain, toge⯑ther with the lower parts of the moun⯑tains: while Vallengin is totally encloſ⯑ed within the Jura. Parallel chains of the Jura run from eaſt to weſt, and form, in the moſt elevated parts, ſeveral val⯑leys. The lower grounds of this chain are partly laid out in arable-land, but principally in vineyards: the higher con⯑ſiſts of a large tract of foreſt, which in many parts has been cleared away, and converted into conſiderable paſture-lands, intermixed with ſome fields of barley and oats. But what particularly deſerves the attention of every curious traveller in theſe valleys, is the ſingular genius and induſtry of the very populous in⯑habitants.

We paſſed through Vallengin, the ca⯑pital of the diſtrict of that name; a ſmall open burgh, with a modern caſtle built on the ruins of an antient one. [333] We then croſſed the Val de Ruz, which contains above twenty villages, moſtly ſituated on both ſides at the foot of the mountains, which terminate the valley: the inhabitants in general are employed in agriculture, ſome few excepted, who follow occaſionally the mechanical arts.

We arrived about mid-day at La Chaux de Fond, a large handſome village lying in a broad valley which borders upon Franche Comtè: from thence we proceeded to Locle in the ſame valley, through a continued range of pleaſing cottages, which ſkirt both ſides of the road; and ſuch are ſcattered likewiſe all over the country. As theſe two little towns or villages carry on the ſame com⯑merce; I ſhall comprehend them both under one common deſcription.

In the two burghs of La Chaux de Fond and Locle, together with the diſ⯑tricts belonging to them, there may be in the whole about ſix thouſand ſouls. The genius and induſtry which ſo re⯑markably [334] diſtinguiſh theſe ſequeſtered people, is wonderful; as in this retired corner of the world, the mechanical arts flouriſh in their greateſt perfection. The inhabitants carry on an extenſive commerce in lace, ſtockings, cutlery, and other different kinds of mer⯑chandiſe of their own manufacture: but watch-making, and every branch of clock-work, are the articles in which they particularly and eminent⯑ly excel. They not only make every utenſil employed in thoſe arts, but have invented ſeveral: and all ſorts of workmen neceſſary for the completion of that branch of buſineſs, ſuch as painters, enamellers, engravers, gilders, &c. are found in theſe villages; where it is ſuppoſed that, upon an average, about forty thouſand watches are yearly made. The genius and induſtry, in⯑deed, obſervable upon theſe mountains, exhibit a ſcene uncommonly pleaſing; and no where, perhaps, (except in Ge⯑neva) [335] are there ſuch a number of peo⯑ple apparently ſo much at their eaſe. Accordingly, as every individual is ſure, not only of obtaining a comfortable maintenance for himſelf, but of ſoon placing his children alſo in a way of getting their own livelihood; they all marry very early: for, women and chil⯑dren are employed in ſome of the branches of watch-making; and a child but of ten years old may earn ten⯑pence a day, by giving the laſt poliſh to ſteel inſtruments, with the hand. And as to the men, there are few who do not get half-crown a day; and ſome, nine ſhillings.

Not many years ago, the greateſt part of theſe valleys was almoſt one conti⯑nued foreſt; but the wonder-working powers of induſtry have happily changed the ſcene into flouriſhing villages and fertile paſtures. Population has en⯑creaſed of courſe; and the following fact will give you ſome idea how much [336] it has encreaſed:—Formerly the produce of the country was more than ſufficient for the conſumption of the inhabitants; at preſent, although it is conſiderably more cultivated, they draw ſeven-eighths of their proviſion from Franche Comtè. And no wonder; for, beſides the natu⯑ral effect of their frequent and early marriages; every ſtranger, who brings a certificate of his good behaviour, is at liberty to ſettle here, and to carry on any trade he thinks proper, without the leaſt reſtriction. Here, no apprentice⯑ſhip is neceſſary; nothing is contra⯑band; and induſtry exerts herſelf un⯑taxed.

Beſides thoſe particular arts I have al⯑ready mentioned, ſome of the inhabi⯑tants of Locle and La Chaux de Fond are well ſkilled likewiſe in other branches of mechanical ſcience; and have invent⯑ed ſeveral uſeful mathematical and aſ⯑tronomical inſtruments. Among thoſe who have eminently diſtinguiſhed them⯑ſelves [337] in this way, is the famous Jaquet Droz, who is now at Paris; and whoſe ſon, if I am rightly informed, is at pre⯑ſent in England, exhibiting to the public ſeveral automatical figures of a very ſin⯑gular and ſurpriſing conſtruction: one of theſe plays upon the harpſichord; another draws landſcapes; and, what is ſtill more extraordinary, a third copies any word preſented to it, or writes down whatever the company ſhall pleaſe to dictate. Theſe are certainly wonderful inventions, and ſeem to carry the powers of mechaniſm to a high pitch; but ſtill they are mere toys, and ſurely an un⯑worthy waſte of great genius: it is Swift making riddles. How much more laudably, and with equal ſucceſs, might the ſame talents and application have been employed in improving, or adding to, thoſe inſtruments and apparatus, which are neceſſary to aſſiſt and facili⯑tate the purpoſes of the aſtronomer and natural philoſopher!

[338] The origin of watch-making in this part of Swiſſerland, as related by Mr. Oſterwald, antient banneret of Neu⯑chatel (the hiſtoriographer of theſe mountains) is extremely curious; and the truth of his account was confirmed to me by ſeveral artiſts both of Locle and La Chaux de Fond. In 1679, one of the inhabitants brought with him from London a watch, the firſt that had been ſeen in theſe parts; which hap⯑pening to be out of order, he ventured to truſt it in the hands of one Daniel John Richard, of La Sagne. Richard, after examining the mechaniſm with great attention, conceived himſelf ca⯑pable, and was determined to attempt, to make a watch from the model before him: but to this end he was deſtitute of every other aſſiſtance than the powers of his own native genius. Accordingly he employed a whole year in inventing and in finiſhing the ſeveral inſtruments previouſly neceſſary for executing his purpoſe; and in ſix months from that [339] period, by the ſole force of his own pe⯑netrating and perſevering talents, he produced a complete watch. But his ambition and induſtry did not ſtop here: beſides applying himſelf ſucceſsfully to the invention of ſeveral new inſtru⯑ments uſeful for the perfection of his work, he took a journey to Geneva, where he gained conſiderable informa⯑tion in the art. He continued for ſome time the only man in theſe parts who could make a watch; but buſineſs en⯑creaſing, he took in, and inſtructed, ſe⯑veral aſſociates; by whoſe aſſiſtance he was enabled to ſupply from his ſingle ſhop all the demands of the neighbour⯑ing country. Towards the beginning of the preſent century he removed to Locle, where he died in 1741, leaving five ſons, who all of them followed their father's occupation. From theſe the knowledge and practice of the art gradually ſpread itſelf, till it at length became almoſt the univerſal buſineſs of [340] the inhabitants, and the principal cauſe of the populouſneſs, of theſe mountains.

But it is not merely in the articles above-mentioned, that the inventive ge⯑nius of this mechanical people is ob⯑ſervable; it diſcovers itſelf upon all oc⯑caſions where it can be applied to the purpoſes of their convenience and ac⯑commodations. To give you an in⯑ſtance: the rocks in moſt parts of the alps being exceedingly hard and ſolid; the water can only make its way along their ſides, and ruſh down in perpetual torrents: but, the ſtrata which compoſe the Jura being leſs firm and compact; the rains and melted ſnow penetrate with impetuoſity into the crevices, and only diſcover themſelves by breaking out into rivulets at the bottom of the mountains. Now the peaſants, in or⯑der to avail themſelves of this peculi⯑arity, have erected mills at a great ex⯑pence, and with inconceivable labour, ſome yards under the rock; which are [341] turned by thoſe internal torrents of wa⯑ter, that force their way through the cre⯑vices above-mentioned. And for this purpoſe the builders have conſtructed wheels, in places where it ſeemed ſcarcely practicable; and have invented new modes of ſcaffolding, and a great va⯑riety of other ingenious contrivances in order to facilitate their work.

The inhabitants of theſe ſeveral diſ⯑tricts are exceedingly courteous, and ready to give every aſſiſtance in their power to ſtrangers who viſit their country. They are in general very well informed in ſeveral branches of knowledge; and, as they uſually employ their leiſure hours in reading, there are circulating libraries to be found in many of the villages.

Their houſes are in general ſmall, but handſome, and well-built: ſeve⯑ral of theſe, which we entered, were furniſhed with a degree of neatneſs, and even elegance, peculiarly ſtriking. Indeed luxury (or what according to [342] the ſimplicity of manners is here called ſo) the never-failing attendant upon ſuc⯑ceſsful induſtry, has made no inconſi⯑derable progreſs in theſe mountains: of which I had a curious proof from an inhabitant of Locle; who ſeriouſly com⯑plained to me, that it was now no un⯑common circumſtance for a maſter of a family to carry his wife to ſee a play at Beſançon; and that there were, at this time, at leaſt ten hair-dreſſers eſ⯑tabliſhed at Locle; whereas ſome few years ago there was but one to be found in the town, and in its whole diſtrict.

The rock which forms the baſe of the Jura, is moſtly compoſed of calca⯑rious ſtone; and perhaps there is no ſpot in Europe where one finds, in ſo ſmall a ſpace, ſo large a quantity of petrified ſhells and marine plants. Near Locle I ſaw a whole ridge of hills, that ſeemed to conſiſt entirely of what are called pierres arboriſées, or ſtones with the impreſſion of plants upon them.

[343] In returning, we had a moſt ſublime proſpect of the lakes of Neuchatel, Bienne, and Morat, with ſeveral high and rugged chains of alps riſing one above another, and ſtretching from the cantons of Berne and Fribourg, as far as the Vallais, and the mountains of Chablais.

The moſt perfect eaſe and plenty reigns throughout theſe mountains, and I ſcarcely ſaw one object of poverty during our ex⯑pedition: the natural effects of induſtry under a mild and equitable government. It is of theſe vallies, and of their inhabi⯑tants, that Rouſſeau gives ſo enchanting a deſcription in his letter to Mr. D'Alem⯑bert: to which I refer you.

LETTER XXVIII.

NEUCHATEL and Vallengin once formed two diſtinct principalities; each having a ſeparate and independent government: but for ſome time paſt they have been united into one. By the death [344] of the dutcheſs of Nemours, in 1707, the ſovereignty of Neuchatel and Vallengin became vacant; to which, as heir to the prince of Orange, Frederic I. king of Pruſſia (amongſt many others) put in his claim: and his right was acknowledged by the ſtates of the country. After his death it deſcended to his ſon Frederic William, who tranſmitted it with his other dominions to the preſent monarch Frederic II.

The conſtitution of Neuchatel is a li⯑mited monarchy. The machine of this government is indeed actuated by ſuch nice ſprings, and its wheels are ſo ex⯑ceedingly complicated, that it is very difficult for a ſtranger to diſtinguiſh, with any degree of accuracy, the prerogatives of the ſovereign, and the franchiſes of the people: particularly as ſome even of their moſt important privileges, depend upon mutual acquieſcence and immemo⯑rial cuſtom, and not upon any written laws. I ſhall endeavour, however, as well as I am able, to trace the principal features of this government; the reſult [345] of my beſt enquiries during the ſhort time I continued in the country, and which I have ſince compared with all the printed accounts I have been able to col⯑lect.

Upon the acceſſion of Frederic I. cer⯑tain general articles were drawn up, which in a great meaſure marked out the prero⯑gatives of the prince, and the liberties of the ſubject; and theſe articles were ſigned and ratified by the king. But beſides theſe general articles, which his preſent majeſty upon his acceſſion promiſed to preſerve inviolate; others were afterwards added at the pacification of 1768: and theſe put an end to the diſpute between the ſove⯑reign and his ſubjects of this principality. By this pacification, the king not only re⯑newed his aſſent to the general articles; but alſo explained them, wherever the tenor of them had been miſtaken; ex⯑preſsly confirming alſo ſeveral other pri⯑vileges in favour of the people, which had hitherto been equivocal, or not duly obſerved.

The moſt important of theſe general articles are:

1. That the ſovereign promiſes to [346] maintain the reformed religion as by law eſtabliſhed; and to tolerate no other ſect, except within the diſtricts of Landeron and Croſſier, where the catholic religion is dominant.

2. That no perſon but a native of the country, although he may be naturaliſed, is capable of holding any charge civil or military, excepting that of governor, who may be a foreigner; and the ſame inca⯑pacity is extended even to natives, who are in the ſervice of any foreign prince whatſoever.

3. That all the ſubjects have a right to enter into the ſervice of any foreign power whatſoever; provided that power, whom they ſerve, be not in actual war againſt the prince, as ſovereign of Neu⯑chatel: and that in caſe the ſovereign be engaged in any war, which no way con⯑cerns Neuchatel; that ſtate ſhall conti⯑nue neuter, except the Helvetic body take part in it^*.

[347] 4. That juſtice be equitably admini⯑ſtered: and, for this purpoſe, that the three eſtates of Neuchatel and Vallengin ſhall be aſſembled yearly.

5. That the magiſtrates and officers of juſtice, inſtead of holding their employ⯑ments during pleaſure, ſhall enjoy them during their good behaviour. And, by the late pacification it was farther agreed, that the prince is not himſelf the judge of their good behaviour; but that in order to be deprived of their places, they muſt be fully [348] convicted of malverſation in office, by cer⯑tain judges at Neuchatel appointed for that purpoſe.

6. That the ſovereign ſhall take the accuſtomed oath upon his acceſſion; and promiſe to maintain all the rights, li⯑berties, franchiſes, and cuſtoms, written or unwritten.

It is remarkable, that one of the moſt eſſential laws of this conſtitution, de⯑pends entirely upon immemorial uſage; for, that ‘"the ſovereign ſhall be conſi⯑dered as reſident only at Neuchatel,"’ is in the number of their unwritten laws. Now it is this law, in conjunction with the third article juſt cited, that forms the whole baſis of their civil liberty. By the former, the prince, when abſent, can only addreſs his ſubjects through his go⯑vernor and the council of ſtate; and no ſubject can be tried out of the country, or otherwiſe than by the judges appoint⯑ed by the conſtitution: by the latter, ſhould the king of Pruſſia be at war with all Germany; the people of Neuchatel and Vallengin are by no means obliged to take up arms in his defence; but in⯑dividuals may even ſerve againſt him, ſo [349] long as the powers whom they ſerve, are not engaged in hoſtilities againſt their country^*.

Beſides theſe general articles, that com⯑prehend the privileges of the people at [350] large; there are others which the ſove⯑reign is equally bound to maintain, re⯑lating to the town of Neuchatel and the diſtrict of Vallengin, in particular.

The prince confers nobility, and no⯑minates to the principal offices of ſtate, both civil and military, except ſome few, which the people have a right to ap⯑point: the chatelains and mayors, who preſide in the ſeveral courts of juſtice, are alſo of his nomination. His re⯑venues are very moderate, ſcarcely a⯑mounting to £.5,000 a year. They ariſe from certain domains belonging to the ſovereign, from a ſmall land tax, and from the tythes of wine and corn, which are moſtly paid according to an antient, and conſequently very low, va⯑luation. With regard to commerce; no ſubject pays any duties either of impor⯑tation or exportation, except for foreign wines imported into the town of Neu⯑chatel.

During the abſence of the prince, he is repreſented by a governor of his own ap⯑pointing; who enjoys conſiderable ho⯑nours indeed, but his authority is very limited. He convokes the three eſtates; [351] preſides in that aſſembly; and has the caſting vote in caſe of an equality of voices: he has the power alſo, in crimi⯑nal caſes, of pardoning, or of mitigat⯑ing the ſentence. In his abſence his place is ſupplied by the ſenior counſellor of ſtate.

The three eſtates of Neuchatel, form the ſuperior tribunal of this country; and to them lies an appeal from the in⯑ferior courts of juſtice. They are com⯑poſed of twelve judges, divided into three eſtates: the firſt conſiſts of the four ſenior counſellors of ſtate, who are no⯑ble: the ſecond, of the four chatelains of Landeron, Boudry, Valde Travers, and Thielle^*; and in caſe theſe cannot ſit in perſon, their place is ſupplied by the reſpective mayors of the principality of Neuchatel, according to a certain order expreſsly regulated: the third eſtate is compoſed of four counſellors of the town of Neuchatel. The judges in the firſt [352] and ſecond diviſion hold their places for life; thoſe in the third are appointed annually. This body ordinarily aſſembles every year in the month of May; but is convoked extraordinarily upon particu⯑lar occaſions: the town of Neuchatel is always the place of their meeting.

Theſe three eſtates are not, as ſeveral authors have ſuppoſed, the repreſenta⯑tives of the people; nor do they poſſeſs the legiſlative authority. They are, pro⯑perly ſpeaking, the ſupreme court of ju⯑dicature, which receives all appeals, and decides finally all cauſes, even thoſe re⯑lating to the ſovereignty of the country: a power which they exerciſed in the year 1707, upon the extinction of the direct line in the perſon of the dutcheſs of Nemours^*.

[353] The council of ſtate is inveſted with the ordinary adminiſtration of govern⯑ment; has the ſuperintendence of the general police; and is entruſted with the execution of the laws. The members are nominated by the ſovereign; and are not limited to any particular number. The prince has no power but in con⯑junction with this council; in which he is always conſidered as perſonally preſid⯑ing: and the power of the preſident is only to convoke the aſſembly, to pro⯑poſe the ſubject of their conſideration, to collect the votes, and to decide when the voices are equal. Previous to the iſſu⯑ing of any ordinance by this council, it is laid before a committee from the coun⯑cil of the town and the deputies of Val⯑lengin, who are to certify, that it con⯑tains nothing contrary to law.

The town of Neuchatel enjoys very conſiderable privileges: it has the care of the police within its own diſtrict, and is governed by its own magiſtracy, conſiſting of a great and little council. I will not trouble you with a detail of the ſeveral departments; but I cannot omit mention⯑ing the miniſtraux; becauſe the members [354] of that body form the third eſtate, when⯑ever it is propoſed to frame new laws, or to amend old ones. The miniſtraux are a kind of committee from the council of the town, and are entruſted with the admini⯑ſtration of the police. They conſiſt of the two preſidents of that council, four maſter-burghers drawn from the little council, and the banneret or guardian of the liberties of the people. The ſix for⯑mer are changed every two years; the banneret is choſen by the general aſſem⯑bly of the citizens, and continues in of⯑fice ſix years.

The legiſlative authority is divided in ſo complicated a manner, that it would be difficult to ſay preciſely where it abſo⯑lutely reſides: perhaps the following ac⯑count of the perſons concerned, and of the forms obſerved, in enacting and in promulgating new laws, may ſomewhat aſſiſt in clearing the difficulty.

As ſoon as the cauſes are decided by the three eſtates aſſembled (as I men⯑tioned above) in the month of May; the four judges, who form the third eſtate, retire; and their place is ſupplied by the four miniſtraux, who repreſent the council [355] of the town. The attorney-general then deſires the members of the three eſtates to take into conſideration, whether it be ne⯑ceſſary to frame any new laws, or to make any amendments in the old ones. If any new ordinance is propoſed; a de⯑claration is drawn up, and delivered to the council of ſtate for their delibera⯑tion, whether any thing therein is con⯑trary to the prerogatives of the prince, or to the intereſt of the public: from thence it is communicated to the council of the town, to be examined, whether it in⯑fringes the privileges of the citizens of Neuchatel. If it be adopted by the coun⯑cil of ſtate, and the council of the town; it is propoſed to the prince for his ap⯑probation or rejection: in the former caſe, it is again carried before the three eſtates, and publicly read; after which the governor, or preſident, declares the approbation of the ſovereign. It is then promulgated, or, as the expreſſion is, paſſed into a law by the three eſtates.

Since the acceſſion of the houſe of Bran⯑denbourg, the people of Vallengin are al⯑ways conſulted upon the framing of any new laws. For this purpoſe the three [356] maſter-burghers of Vallengin examine, whether it contains any thing inconſiſtent with the franchiſes of the people of that diſtrict: and, in that caſe, they have the power of remonſtrating to the governor in council.

From all this detail it ſhould ſeem, that the legiſlative authority reſides conjunc⯑tively in the prince, the council of ſtate, and the town; that the people of Val⯑lengin have a kind of negative voice; and that the three eſtates propoſe and promulgate the laws.

Every year, after the breaking-up of the aſſembly of the three eſtates of Neu⯑chatel; the three eſtates of Vallengin, as conſtituting the ſupreme court of ju⯑dicature for that country, meet at their capital burgh, and decide finally on all appeals from the inferior courts of juſtice. The firſt of theſe three eſtates conſiſts of the ſame four noble counſellors of ſtate, who ſit in the firſt of the three eſtates of Neuchatel; four mayors of the county of Vallengin compoſe the ſecond eſtate; and four members of the court of juſtice of Vallengin, nominated by the mayor of that burgh, conſtitute the third. The [357] governor, or, in his abſence, the ſenior counſellor, preſides, as in thoſe of Neu⯑chatel. Theſe three eſtates of Vallengin have no interference in the framing of the laws: but, after they have been enacted or amended at Neuchatel, in the man⯑ner above-mentioned, they are ſimply re⯑mitted to them by the ſollicitor-general, and publicly read before them.

The people of the diſtrict of Vallen⯑gin aſſemble every three years in an open plain, in order to elect their three maſter-burghers, as they are ſtyled; who are reſpectively choſen from among the inhabitants of the burgh of Vallengin, of the Val de Ruz, and of the moun⯑tains. The function of theſe maſter⯑burghers is to watch over the general intereſts of the people: they are alſo in ſome caſes their deputies, and ap⯑pear at Neuchatel in their name, when⯑ever they are ſummoned by the gover⯑nor and council of ſtate, in relation to any affair which particularly concerns their country.

The principality of Neuchatel is di⯑vided into a certain number of diſtricts, each of which has its criminal courts [358] of juſtice: in the county of Vallengin there is but one for the whole diſtrict. The ſpirit of their criminal laws is un⯑commonly mild; and the penalty an⯑nexed to each tranſgreſſion is marked out with a preciſion, which leaves no part of the ſentence to the arbitrary de⯑termination of the judges. The great circumſpection obſerved in their judicial proceedings, may ſometimes indeed fa⯑vour the eſcape of the criminal: but the very few inſtances which occur of atrocious crimes, is a proof that this humane caution is no encouragement to tranſgreſſors; as it is a ſtrong preſump⯑tion alſo of the general good morals of the people. In a word, and to ſpeak of the temper of their legiſlation in the higheſt terms of encomium, as well as with the ſtricteſt truth; perſonal li⯑berty is as tenderly and as ſecurely pro⯑tected by the laws of this country, as by thoſe of our own moſt invaluable conſtitution.

When the criminal is arreſted, he is immediately brought to trial: after which, the ſentence is read to him in priſon. The next morning the priſoner [359] is again brought before the judges, aſ⯑ſembled in the open air; the whole for⯑mer proceedings on the trial are read aloud, and the judges once more deliver their opinion: by theſe means time is given for farther deliberation. In caſe the ſentence is capital; the governor is made acquainted without delay with the circumſtances of the crime: and if he does not remit or ſoften the puniſh⯑ment, the ſentence is immediately put in execution. I am ſorry to add, that torture (though ſeldom made uſe of) is not abſolutely aboliſhed: it is the only circumſtance wanting to render their code of penal laws, an admirable model of juſtice tempered with humanity.

Such are the general outlines of this remarkable conſtitution, by which the liberties of the people are as well, and perhaps better, ſecured than even in the democratical cantons: for, although the moſt deſpotic prince in Germany is ſovereign, his power is exceedingly li⯑mited. Among thoſe circumſtances with which I was more particularly ſtruck in this government, I cannot but mention the very liberal encouragement given to [360] all ſtrangers, who chooſe to ſettle in the country. They enjoy every poſſible pri⯑vilege of trade and commerce; and one can ſcarce meet with any ſtate, where fewer eſſential diſtinctions are made be⯑tween theſe and the natives. I have al⯑ready obſerved to you, the good effects which this enlarged policy has had, with⯑in the preſent century, on the popula⯑tion of Neuchatel and Vallengin: where⯑as, a narrower and more contracted prin⯑ciple in ſome of the neighbouring Swiſs cantons, unwiſely with-holding them from giving encouragement to the ſettling of ſtrangers among them; has occaſioned, and continues to occaſion, a very ma⯑nifeſt decreaſe of their people.

LETTER XXIX.

IN our way to Avenches we croſſed the river Thiele, which iſſues from the lake of Neuchatel, and diſcharges itſelf into that of Bienne: this river ſeparates the principality of Neuchatel [361] from the canton of Berne. Thiele is a diſtrict of the province of Neucha⯑tel, and contains ſeveral villages in a tract of level country which produces wine, corn, and fruit: a ſpirit of in⯑duſtry prevails among the inhabitants, particularly thoſe of the villages of Thiele and St. Blaiſe.

Morat is a bailliage belonging to Berne and Fribourg: the reformation was in⯑troduced here in 1530, by the majority of voices, in preſence of the deputies of Berne and Fribourg. The free ſpirit of the Swiſs governments is in no in⯑ſtance more remarkably apparent, than by the mode they obſerved in embracing, or rejecting, the reformation; as, in many other towns beſides Morat, the queſtion was fairly put to the vote, and the mi⯑nority generally ſubmitted to the deci⯑ſion of the greater number, with perfect acquieſcence.

This town ſtands upon the edge of a ſmall lake (about ſix miles long, and two broad) in the midſt of a well-cul⯑tivated country. The lakes of Morat and Neuchatel are parallel to each other, and ſeparated only by a ſmall hill: the former [362] is the higheſt; for, it diſcharges itſelf by means of the river Broye, into the latter. According to Mr. de Luc, the lake of Morat is fifteen French feet (about ſixteen of our meaſure) above the level of that of Neuchatel. Both theſe lakes, as well as that of Bienne, formerly ex⯑tended much farther than their preſent limits: and I have little doubt, from the poſition of the country, that they were once united.

Morat is celebrated for the obſtinate ſiege it ſuſtained in 1476 againſt Charles the Bold, duke of Burgundy; which was followed by the battle of Morat: in this famous engagement, the duke was routed, and his whole army almoſt entirely de⯑ſtroyed, by the confederate Swiſs troops. Not far from the town, and cloſe to the high road, there ſtill remains a monu⯑ment of this victory: it is a ſquare build⯑ing, filled with the bones of the ſoldiers belonging to the duke of Burgundy's army, who were ſlain at the ſiege and in the battle: and indeed, by the quantity of theſe bones, it appears, that the num⯑ber of the ſlaughtered was conſiderable. Over the building are ſeveral inſcriptions [363] in Latin and German, relative to that memorable victory. I tranſcribed the fol⯑lowing on account of its elegant conciſe⯑neſs:‘Deo Opt: Max:
Caroli Inclyti et Fortiſſimi
Burgundiae Ducis Exercitus
Muratum obſidens ab Helvetiis
Caeſus hoc ſui Monumentum reliquit
Ann: 1476.’

This war, which Charles the Bold carried on againſt the Swiſs with a te⯑merity peculiar to himſelf, forms a me⯑morable aera in the hiſtory of this coun⯑try; and was attended with ſome very extraordinary circumſtances. From the time of the famous revolution in 1308, which gave riſe to the Helvetic confede⯑racy, to the end of the following cen⯑tury, the Swiſs republics ſtripped the houſe of Auſtria of all their territories that lay within Swiſſerland; and conti⯑nued in poſſeſſion of them, notwith⯑ſtanding the various attempts made by the different dukes to recover their loſt domains. Among theſe, Sigiſmond the Simple, archduke of Auſtria of the branch [364] of Tyrol, was more particularly engaged in perpetual hoſtilities with the Swiſs cantons, and their allies: for, his he⯑reditary dominions in Suabia and Al⯑ſace bordered upon Swiſſerland, and in⯑duced him to enter more frequently into theſe quarrels, than the other branch of that houſe, which was in poſſeſſion of the imperial throne.

In the courſe of theſe hoſtilities, Si⯑giſmond was compelled to cede a conſi⯑derable part of his territories to the Swiſs republics; particularly the rich country of Thurgaw was yielded to the ſeven cantons, which at that period compoſed the Helvetic league^*. Theſe repeated loſſes, and the humiliating conditions of peace he was conſtrained to accept in 1468, filled him with reſentment; and he endeavoured to engage ſome of the neighbouring powers to join with him in a confederacy againſt the Swiſs cantons. For this purpoſe, he firſt applied to Louis XI. king of France; but not ſuc⯑ceeding, he addreſſed himſelf to Charles the Bold, duke of Burgundy.

[365] That prince having ſucceeded to the poſſeſſion of Franche Comtè, Burgundy, Artois, and Flanders, together with the greateſt part of the now United Pro⯑vinces; his revenues were as ample, and his territories as extenſive, as thoſe of the moſt potent ſovereign of his time. Magnificent, impetuous, and enterpriſing, he ſet no bounds to his reſtleſs ambi⯑tion; nor neglected any opportunity of enlarging his domains and aggrandiſing his power. He had formed the plan of erecting his dominions into a monarchy; and had already in imagination appro⯑priated to himſelf Lorraine and part of Swiſſerland; which he propoſed to con⯑quer, and annex to his hereditary terri⯑tories.

A prince of ſuch a character could not but be well-diſpoſed to liſten to any overtures, or to undertake any war, that might advance his projected ſchemes. Accordingly, Charles received with eager⯑neſs the propoſitions which Sigiſmond made him; flattered him with the hopes of beſtowing upon him in marriage his daughter Mary, heireſs of his extenſive dominions; and prevailed upon that cre⯑dulous [366] prince to ſurrender to him Sund⯑gaw, Alſace, Briſgaw, and the four Fo⯑reſt-towns, as a pledge for the ſecurity of eighty thouſand florins: upon the re⯑payment of which ſum, the provinces in queſtion were to be reſtored.

By this treaty, Sigiſmond acquired a ſum of money to aſſiſt him in his pre⯑parations againſt the Swiſs; protected, as he thought, his hereditary dominions from their enterpriſes; and ſecured a powerful ally againſt the antient ene⯑mies of his family. The reverſe, how⯑ever, proved to be the event: for, by a ſtrange fatality, this treaty, which was to cement the union of the two princes, and to engage them to attack conjointly that formidable people; ſerved only to divide the contracting parties; and oc⯑caſioned the firſt perpetual alliance be⯑tween the Swiſs cantons and a prince of the houſe of Auſtria.

Charles, upon the concluſion of this alliance, informed the Swiſs cantons, that he had taken Sigiſmond under his pro⯑tection, and would defend him to the ut⯑moſt of his power. Meanwhile, the bai⯑liffs, whom he placed over his new-ac⯑quired [367] territories in Alſace, oppreſſed the people; laid embargoes upon the com⯑merce of Mulhauſen, a ſmall town con⯑federated with the cantons; and withheld the rents of the eſtates belonging to the Swiſs in Sundgaw and Alſace.

Theſe grievances were laid before Charles in an embaſſy, which Berne diſ⯑patched to his court in the name of the allied cantons. The duke received it with haughtineſs; and after having obliged the deputies to kneel down, while they de⯑livered in their remonſtrance, diſmiſſed them without an anſwer. This diſdainful and ignominious treatment was ill brooked by a free people, unaccuſtomed to crouch before the inſolence of power; and the warmth of their juſt indignation was ſtill more inflamed by the artful policy of Louis XI. who, jealous of the duke of Burgundy's power, now entered into a defenſive alliance with the eight cantons, in conjunction with the republics of Fri⯑bourg and Soleure, in order to counteract the dangerous deſigns of that ambitious prince.

But Louis ſtill farther ſtrengthened the Swiſs, by effecting a reconciliation be⯑tween [368] them and Sigiſmond: for, the latter had no ſooner ſurrendered to Charles thoſe towns which he had mortgaged to him upon the terms above-mentioned, than he began to be ſenſible of the error he had committed. The duke of Bur⯑gundy not only oppreſſed thoſe people, but ſeemed determined, even ſhould the 80,000 florins be repayed, to keep poſ⯑ſeſſion of theſe conditional territories: and he avoided alſo the fulfilling of the promiſe he had made of beſtowing his daughter upon the archduke. From theſe conſiderations, the latter was eaſily in⯑duced, through the mediation of Louis, to throw himſelf under the protection of the Swiſs; and he concluded with them the famous treaty, which was confirmed the twentieth of January, 1474, in the general diet aſſembled at Lucerne.

This alliance is called the hereditary union; an appellation, appropriated to the treaties made with the houſe of Auſ⯑tria; as thoſe, contracted with France, are denominated treaties of perpetual peace. By the alliance in queſtion, Sigiſmond renounced all right to the provinces which the Swiſs had conquered from the houſe [369] of Auſtria: the two contracting parties entered into a defenſive alliance, and en⯑gaged to guarantee reciprocally each other's territories. Thus the Swiſs, after having ſtripped Sigiſmond of all his poſſeſſions in their country, ſtipulated with him, to ſupport his right to thoſe very provinces, which he had mortgaged in order to ſtrengthen his arms againſt themſelves: and Sigiſmond was under the mortifying neceſſity of accepting the guarantee of the moſt inveterate enemies of his family.

This treaty, which entirely changed the deſigns and altered the policy of the Swiſs republics, was ſolely brought about by the artful intrigues of Louis XI.; and the jealouſy of that deſigning monarch turned into another channel the vaſt pre⯑parations of the duke of Burgundy: pre⯑parations which would probably have been attended with more ſucceſs, had they been directed againſt France.

Charles perceived, when it was too late, the imprudence of his behaviour towards the Swiſs republics; and he now tried every method to engage them in a neu⯑trality: but they rejected his propoſals of reconciliation with firmneſs; prepared for [370] a war, which now appeared inevitable, with their uſual vigour; and even ad⯑vanced the 80,000 florins to Sigiſmond, who demanded the reſtitution of his lands, and which the duke of Burgundy evaded under various pretexts. The latter hav⯑ing concluded a ſeparate peace with Louis (who generally duped every ſtate, with which he entered into alliance, and kept the moſt ſolemn treaties no longer than they were ſubſervient to his own intereſt) entered Swiſſerland with an army of ſixty thouſand men; and, laying ſiege to Grand⯑ſon, carried it by aſſault. But his ſuc⯑ceſs ended here: for, at the ſubſequent battles of Grandſon and Morat, he was totally defeated, and his attempts upon Swiſſerland entirely foiled^*. Neverthe⯑leſs, [371] his reſtleſs and ambitious ſpirit re⯑mained ſtill unſubdued; and it impelled him to attack the duke of Lorraine. But that prince, having engaged a body of eight thouſand Swiſs in his pay, had the good fortune (for which he was very much indebted to the valour of thoſe troops) to obtain a complete victory, near [372] Nancy, over Charles, who loſt his life in the battle^*.

His death put an end to this bloody war; from which, although the Swiſs gave indeed the moſt diſtinguiſhing proofs of their invincible valour, and ſpread the fame of their military virtues through⯑out all Europe, they derived no ſolid advantage^†. In fact, the principal [373] and almoſt ſole benefit reſulting from it, accrued to Louis XI; as by the death of Charles, he not only got rid of a dangerous and enterpriſing rival, but alſo annexed the rich provinces of Bur⯑gundy and Artois to the crown of France.

But, notwithſtanding the immediate advantages to the Swiſs, by the death of the duke of Burgundy, were in themſelves unimportant; yet the conſequences of it operated very conſiderably on their future politics. Mary of Burgundy, the only ſur⯑viving child and heireſs of Charles, mar⯑ried the archduke Maximilian, eldeſt ſon of the emperor Frederic III. and after⯑wards emperor himſelf. By this marriage, the houſe of Auſtria acquired the poſſeſſion of the Low-Countries; and having fre⯑quent diſputes to ſettle with France, re⯑lating to thoſe territories which border upon that kingdom; the alliance of the [374] Swiſs was ſtrenuouſly courted by both parties. And thus this country, being ſecured from all enterpriſes from with⯑out; acceded as occaſion offered to the two rival powers; aſſiſting each party by turns, as the intrigues, or rather as the ſubſidies, of the one or the other pre⯑vailed.

Theſe intrigues gave riſe to different alliances, contracted with the houſe of Auſtria, the kings of France, the pope, and the dukes of Savoy and Milan.—But, not to enter more minutely into their hiſtory, I will only obſerve in ge⯑neral, that hitherto the Swiſs had acted with great diſintereſtedneſs in all their treaties, and had never taken the field but either to ſecure their liberties, or to drive their enemies out of Swiſſerland. It was about the period of the Burgun⯑dian war, that the ſubſidies which they obtained from Louis XI. taught them the diſgraceful arts of mercenary poli⯑tics; as the rich plunder which they took from the duke of Burgundy gave, in ſome meaſure, the firſt taint to that wonderful ſimplicity of manners, for which they had before been ſo happily [375] diſtinguiſhed: till at length, Swiſs ve⯑nality has become a kind of proverbial expreſſion.

LETTER XXX.

THERE is ſcarcely any antient town that has occaſioned more controverſy among antiquarians, or that has given riſe to ſuch variety of con⯑jectures concerning its original and im⯑portance, as Avenches, the principal burgh of a bailliage in the Pays de Vaud. Some contend that it was the capital of all Helvetia; becauſe Tacitus calls it Aventicum gentis caput: while others have endeavoured to prove, that by this ex⯑preſſion the hiſtorian meant only to de⯑note the capital town of its particular pagus or diſtrict. Agreeably to ſome accounts, the city was built, and a Ro⯑man colony founded there, by Veſpa⯑ſian: according to others (and with more probability) it was only repaired and beautified by that emperor, after it had [376] been laid waſte and almoſt ruined, by Vitellius.

Without entering however into diſcuſ⯑ſions of this dry and unintereſting kind, this much at leaſt is certain; that it was formerly a very conſiderable town, and under the dominion of the Romans. This appears not only from ſeveral mile⯑ſtones, found in many parts of the Pays de Vaud, moſt of which are numbered from Aventicum, as the principal place of reference; and alſo from various other inſcriptions; but more particu⯑larly from the ruins ſtill exiſting. I ſhall ſlightly mention a few of the latter, merely to ſhew you it is not without evidence that theſe good people boaſt of their antiquity.

We traced the ruins of the antient walls, which appear to have encloſed a ſpace near five miles in circumference. The preſent town occupies but a very inconſiderable part of this ground; the remainder is covered with corn-fields and meadows. One of the antient towers ſtill exiſts: it is a ſemicircular building, with the convex ſide turned towards the town.

[377] We were ſhewn a very curious mo⯑ſaic pavement, diſcovered ſome years ago in ploughing up a field. It is now in⯑cloſed by a barn, which being let to ſome peaſants, the ignorant occupiers are taking the moſt effectual method to deſtroy this elegant piece of antiquity as faſt as poſſible. We found it ſtrew⯑ed all over with tobacco-plants: and indeed they not only cover it with damp herbs, which deaden the colours and rot the pavement; but ſuffer every perſon who enters to take away bits. Even the Meſſrs. of Berne were ſo in⯑ſenſible of the value of this admirable relic of antient genius, that they per⯑mitted the count of Caylus to take up one of the pannels; upon which the fi⯑gures of two ſatyrs, repreſented as em⯑bracing, were greatly admired for the exquiſite beauty of the execution. The count deſigned to have conveyed them to Paris, but was diſappointed: for, by the unſkilfulneſs of the perſons employ⯑ed in removing them, the pannel was broken to pieces.

This fine moſaic was the floor of an antient bath, and is about ſixty feet in [378] length and forty in breadth: the ge⯑neral form is perfect; and, although ſe⯑veral parts are broken off and loſt, yet from what remains we could eaſily trace the configuration of the whole.

The pavement conſiſts of three ge⯑neral compartments: thoſe at each ex⯑tremity are regularly divided into fifteen octagons, eight ſmall ſquares, and ſix⯑teen ſmall triangles. Five of theſe oc⯑tagons in each compartment, repreſent⯑ed human figures in various attitudes, but chiefly Bacchanalian men and wo⯑men: the remaining octagons were com⯑poſed of three different patterns, an⯑ſwering to each other with great exact⯑neſs. The vacant parts between the octagons are filled with the ſmall ſquares; and towards the outward border, with the ſmall triangles above-mentioned. The middle compartment is divided into oblong pannels; in the largeſt of which is an octagon bath of white marble, of about ſix feet in diameter, and a foot and an half deep: the ſides of the bath are ornamented with dolphins. Of theſe three compartments one is almoſt per⯑fect; the two others are very much de⯑faced. [379] Each of the pannels are encir⯑cled with ſeveral borders prettily diver⯑ſified; and a general border encloſes the whole.

Schmidt, in his Recueil d' Antiquités de la Suiſſe, ingeniouſly conjectures, from a glory which encircles a head of Bac⯑chus in this moſaic, that it was wrought during ſome part of the intervening age between Veſpaſian and Marcus Aurelius; becauſe that mark of divinity is never ſeen upon any monuments of Roman antiquity prior to that period. He adds, that the ſame kind of glory is obſerved up⯑on the head of Trajan in an antient paint⯑ing at Rome; upon that of Antoninus Pius on a medal; and on the arch of Conſtantine. He ſtrengthens this con⯑jecture, by farther remarking, that the head-dreſs of one of the Bacchanalian women repreſented in this moſaic, re⯑ſembles the head-dreſs on the medals of the empreſſes Plotina and Sabina^*.

From thence we were conducted to the ruins of an antient amphitheatre, [380] within the walls of the bailiff's garden. The general form and ſize of this build⯑ing remain tolerably perfect, as alſo ſome parts of the walls which encloſed it. The diameter of the arena might be about eighty yards, as far as we could judge by pacing it; which muſt neceſſarily in⯑deed have been a very uncertain eſtimate: for, one of the former bailiffs filled up the hollow with a conſiderable quantity of earth, in order to plant it with fruit⯑trees; wiſely conceiving, I ſuppoſe, that to have good fruit was of more value, than to be able to determine the preciſe extent of all the antient amphitheatres that ever exiſted. Under a tower (part of which is built of Roman materials) is a cell of about 24 feet by eighteen, and nearly 20 in heighth, from whence the animals were probably let looſe upon the combatants. On the outſide are ſtill to be ſeen the remains of five dens: and all over the walls, which are formed of brick and mortar, there are ſeveral pieces of rude ſculpture conſiderably defaced.

Not far from theſe ruins ſtands a large column of white marble, about 50 feet in heighth, compoſed of immenſe [381] maſſes, nicely joined together without ce⯑ment; and near it lies ſcattered a con⯑ſiderable fragment of defaced ſculpture: it has much the appearance of having been once the portal of ſome magnificent temple. At a ſmall diſtance from this column, in the high road, we obſerved a cornice, conſiſting of a large ſolid block of white marble, which probably belong⯑ed to the ſame building: the ſculpture, which is not without merit, repreſents urns and griffins. As we walked through the town, we remarked ſeveral other enormous maſſes of cornice, ornamented with ſea-horſes and urns; as alſo ſome marble columns of beautiful proportions.

About a mile from Avenches, near the village of Coppet, are the remains of a ſmall aqueduct: it is on the other ſide of a little ſtream, which ſeparates the canton of Fribourg from that of Berne. It was diſcovered about fifteen years ago, by the accidental falling of a hill of ſand which covered the aque⯑duct, and in its fall demoliſhed a part of it. The outſide is formed of ſtones and mortar, and the inſide of a red cement, as hard as the old Roman tile: [382] the vault of the arch may be about two feet and an half high, and one and an half broad. This aqueduct has been traced to the eaſt-ſide of the town, and alſo to near the high marble co⯑lumn before mentioned. We were in⯑formed that it extends to the tower of Gauſa, between Vevay and Lauſanne; and that between Villarſel and Mar⯑naw, about four leagues from Cop⯑pet, the ſolid rock is cut through in an arch of nea [...]ly the ſame dimenſions. But whether theſe ſeveral parts actually com⯑municated with each other, or indeed whether they really exiſt; are facts which, (having only viewed thoſe re⯑mains that are viſible near this town) I muſt be contented to reſt on the credit of my informers.

LETTER XXXI.

THE town of Fribourg was built in 1179, by Berchtold IV. duke of Zaeringen, who endowed it with conſider⯑able [383] privileges. Upon the extinction of the male line of the houſe of Zaeringen, in 1218^*, Ulric of Kybourg obtained the ſovereignty of the town, in right of his wife Anne, ſiſter of the laſt duke Berch⯑told V. It came by marriage into the poſſeſſion of Eberhard count of Habſ⯑bourg-Lauffenbourg; who ſold it to his couſin Rhodolph of Habſbourg, af⯑terwards emperor, and founder of the houſe of Auſtria. During this period a continual rivalſhip ſubſiſting between [384] Berne and Fribourg, they were fre⯑quently engaged in mutual hoſtilities: at length, however, all differences were compoſed; and the two cities, in 1403, entered into a perpetual alliance.

Fribourg continued under the domi⯑nion of the houſe of Auſtria, and was a party in all the quarrels in which that family were engaged with the Swiſs republics, until the middle of the fif⯑teenth century; when, by a very ſin⯑gular revolution, it renounced all alle⯑giance to Albert archduke of Auſtria, and brother to the emperor Frederic III; and put itſelf under the protection of the duke of Savoy. From this aera it occa⯑ſionally aſſiſted the cantons againſt the houſe of Auſtria; and in the war be⯑tween the Swiſs and Charles the Bold, the troops of this republic had a ſhare in the victories of Grandſon and Morat. Soon after the laſt of theſe battles, the houſe of Savoy, at the interceſſion of Berne, renounced all right and title to the town of Fribourg. By this means ſhe became a free and independent republic; and, in 1481, was admitted, together with Soleure, a member of the Helvetic confederacy.

[385] The government of Fribourg is entirely ariſtocratical, the ſovereign and legiſlative authority being veſted in the great coun⯑cil, conſiſting of 200; the members of which are choſen by that council, and from a few patrician families. The little council of 24, in which reſides the execu⯑tive power; and the ſecret council, con⯑ſiſting of 60 members; are ſub-diviſions of the great council. I ſhall not enter into a minute detail of this government; which reſembles (ſome inconſiderable dif⯑ferences excepted) the other ariſtocratical ſtates of Swiſſerland. The moſt remark⯑able circumſtance that diſtinguiſhes it, is the mode of electing the members of the ſecret and of the little council. The names of the candidates are placed privately in a box, containing as many diviſions as there are perſons who ſolicit the charge. Into each of theſe partitions the ſuffrages are thrown; and the ſeveral electors put in their ballots, as chance directs, without knowing to which of the candidates they may happen to give their vote: and he who has the moſt of theſe caſual ballots is choſen. This method has the appear⯑ance of effectually guarding againſt fa⯑mily [386] influence: nevertheleſs, if it be con⯑ſidered, that the candidate can only be taken from certain families, and under cer⯑tain reſtrictions; it may well be queſtion⯑ed, whether it ſufficiently anſwers the purpoſe for which it was intended.

This canton is entirely catholic. It is ſuppoſed to contain above 60,000 ſouls, without including the town; in which there are about 6,000. Its territory conſiſts chiefly of excellent paſture; produces ſome corn, and but little wine. The commerce here is too inconſider⯑able to be mentioned: and literature is by no means in a more flouriſhing ſtate. The town ſtands on a hill in a very ſingular ſituation, half encircled by the river Sane; the banks whereof are formed by naked perpendicular rocks; but the adjacent country exhibits a beau⯑tiful variegated ſcene of riſing grounds, rich meadows, and fine foreſts.

This republic draws conſiderable ſub⯑ſidies from France, both in money and ſalt; and it is computed that, in pro⯑portion to its ſize, none of the other cantons have ſo many troops in that ſervice. It has long been a controverted [387] queſtion, whether Swiſſerland gains or loſes by furniſhing ſuch numbers of her natives to ſerve in foreign armies. That the fidelity of theſe troops is ſo well recogniſed, as to be choſen above all others to be the life-guards of ſeveral ſovereigns; is a circumſtance, which in that reſpect, undoubtedly, redounds much to the honour of the national character of the Swiſs: but, on the other hand, to traffic with the blood of their ſub⯑jects, and let them out, for paltry ſub⯑ſidies, to fight the battles of any king, in any cauſe; ſeems to betray a merce⯑nary ſpirit, uncontrouled by conſidera⯑tions of juſtice and humanity. It has been urged, that were it not for their furniſhing theſe ſupplies to foreign na⯑tions, Swiſſerland would be over-ſtocked with inhabitants; and that the people would be obliged, like the northern hives of old, to emigrate for ſubſiſtence: for, in many parts there is no commerce; and the mountainous tracts of this country cannot ſupply ſufficient proviſion for ſuch a numerous people. In reply to this rea⯑ſoning, it may be alledged, that they do not make uſe of all the reſources in their [388] power: commerce might be more gene⯑rally cultivated and encouraged; as there is no part of Swiſſerland which is far re⯑moved from ſome of the principal rivers and great lakes, all of which have a di⯑rect communication with the ſea.

But, to be convinced that they have not exhauſted all the advantages to which they might reſort; let them look back on antient Greece, and the immenſe popu⯑louſneſs in ſo confined a country; or, what is more open to their obſervation, let them conſider the preſent ſtate of the United Provinces, and the abundance thoſe induſtrious people enjoy on a tract of land ſnatched from an element perpetu⯑ally reclaiming its prior occupancy. But the Swiſs need not be ſent to antient or foreign nations for examples: they have them much nearer home. Geneva and St. Gallen are, for their extent, exceed⯑ingly populous; and yet the natural pro⯑ductions of their lands are by no means ſufficient to ſupport all the inhabitants. Appenzel is entirely mountainous, as well as the diſtrict of Vallengin, nevertheleſs both thoſe countries are remarkably well peopled; and they derive from the neigh⯑bouring [389] nations, by means of their com⯑merce and induſtry, all the neceſſaries of life in great abundance. Indeed Swiſſer⯑land is ſo far from being over-ſtocked with people, that in moſt of the great towns there is a manifeſt want of inha⯑bitants. Nor is this depopulation con⯑fined to the towns alone: for, ſeveral parts of this country, and more particularly the Pays de Vaud, are conſiderably leſs peopled than they were in the laſt cen⯑tury; inſomuch that hands are frequently wanting for the common purpoſes of agriculture.

Theſe reflections ſeem to prove the miſtaken policy of Swiſſerland, in letting out her troops to foreign ſtates: but the evil is too deeply rooted to admit of a ſpeedy cure. Individuals, it is true, make fortunes by this kind of traffic, but the public ſuffers. Some circumſtances, how⯑ever, may be remarked in its favour; as by this practice the ſeveral cantons not only have in conſtant reſerve, without the leaſt expence, a body of well-diſci⯑plined forces, which they can recall at a moment's warning; but it becomes the intereſt, for that reaſon, of thoſe foreign [390] powers, whom they furniſh with theſe troops, not to foment any diviſions among the United States, which might render the preſence of their troops neceſſary at home. Add to this, that the privileges which the Swiſs enjoy in France, and the very advantageous articles, relating to com⯑merce, ſecured to them in all their trea⯑ties, ſeem to ſtrengthen the argument for continuing their connections of this kind with that kingdom.—Having thus ſtated the principal topics, which are urged by the oppoſite partizans of this contro⯑verted queſtion; I will leave you to de⯑termine on which ſide the balance pre⯑vails.

We are now at the ſmall village of Neuneck, in our way to Berne: we made a little circuit to this place, in order to ſee an hermitage, that lies about a league from the town of Fribourg; and which has been much talked of, on account of the ſingularity of its conſtruction. It is formed in the ſolid rock; and the chief curioſity conſiſts in its having been the work of two men: as ſuch, it is an aſto⯑niſhing performance, but, in any other reſpect, it is hardly worth viſiting. In [391] the laſt century an hermit ſcooped out a hollow in this rock, juſt ſufficient for him to lie at his full length: but his ſucceſſor deſiring a more commodious manſion, hewed, in the heart of the mountain, a chapel, ſeveral apartments, ſtair-caſes, &c. The length of the whole is above 400 feet. One room is 90 feet long, and 20 broad; the ſteeple of the chapel, if it may be ſo called, is So feet high, and the chimney of the kitchen 90. The hermit who perforated this dwelling in the rock, was near thirty years at the work. What a wretched waſte of time and induſtry! But ſuch is the folly of ſequeſtered ſuperſtition, that, for want of better occupations to employ the mind, it frequently has re⯑courſe to laborious trifles. The ſitua⯑tion of this hermitage is beautiful: the rock in which it is cut, hangs over the river Sane, which meandring through two chains of hills covered with wood, fills up all the valley beneath. The preſent hermit is a German; and with him lives an old ſoldier, his friend.

From this hermitage to Neuneck (at which place the canton of Berne com⯑mences) [392] the country is rich, and finely wooded: on our right we had a diſ⯑tant but ſublime view of a range of rude rocks, with ſome glaciers riſing above them and cloſing the proſpect. The ſun was now going down: the va⯑rious tints of the evening—the purple gleam upon the naked rocks—and the rays of the ſetting-ſun upon the glaciers, which ſeemed to glow almoſt into tranſ⯑parency—caſt ſuch a mild and beauti⯑ful radiance over this magnificent ſcene, as even the luminous pencil of that celebrated Grecian artiſt, who is ſaid to have painted ‘"quae pingi non poſſunt, fulgura & fulgetra,^*"’ would in vain have attempted to imitate.

LETTER XXXII.

FROM the firſt formation of the Hel⯑vetic union, additional cantons were from time to time admitted into it, until at length the reception of Appenzel finally cloſed the confederacy. During theſe in⯑tervals, ſeveral of thoſe republics, which [393] afterwards became members of the gene⯑ral league, were only allies of ſome of the particular cantons; enjoying the ſame privileges, and ſtanding in the ſame rela⯑tion, as the preſent allies and aſſociates of the United States. Among theſe, Fri⯑bourg and Soleure, having, upon the con⯑cluſion of the war with Charles the Bold, entered into an alliance with Zuric, Berne, and Lucerne; demanded to be admitted into the Helvetic union. This alliance was conſidered by the five other combined cantons, as a breach of their antient treaty: accordingly they refuſed to receive them. The diſpute grew warm; hoſtilities were upon the point of breaking out; when a native of the canton of Underwalden ſingly effected a reconciliation, and ſaved his country from all the impending hor⯑rors of a civil war.

The name of this celebrated perſon was Nicholas de Flue: he had formerly filled the office of landamman of the canton of Underwalden, with the high⯑eſt advantage to his reputation; but ſud⯑denly retiring from the world, in a fit of gloomy ſuperſtition unworthy of his virtues and character, he turned hermit, [394] and practiſed all the ſeverities of that au⯑ſtere mode of life, with the ſtricteſt obſer⯑vance. But although the flame of patri⯑otiſm was ſmothered in his breaſt by an ill-directed zeal for miſtaken duties, it was not extinguiſhed; and he no ſooner heard, in the depth of his ſolitude, of thoſe pub⯑lic animoſities, which threatened a fatal breach between the confederate cantons; than his patriotiſm prevailed over his ſuperſtition, and he quitted his unpro⯑fitable hermitage in order to exert thoſe active and public virtues, the very low⯑eſt of which ſingly outweighs whole years of uſeleſs and unrequired morti⯑fications. Accordingly, this extraordi⯑nary man preſented himſelf before the de⯑puties aſſembled at Stantz, and ſo for⯑cibly repreſented to them, by his conciliat⯑ing and perſuaſive eloquence, the deſtruc⯑tive conſequences that would attend their diſunion, that they choſe him arbiter of the diſpute. The conſequence was, that by his ſole mediation all differences between the contending parties were amicably ſettled, and Fribourg and Soleure were received in⯑to the Helvetic confederacy. Upon this occaſion the eight antient cantons entered [395] into a covenant, called the Convention of Stantz; by which the ſeveral articles of union and mutual protection were per⯑manently fixed^*.

The articles to which Fribourg and So⯑leure acceded upon their admiſſion into the league, together with the above-men⯑tioned convention, are conſidered, by all the beſt hiſtorians of Swiſſerland, as the great baſis of the federal union between theſe celebrated ſtates. The ſubſequent reception of the three other cantons, Baſil, Schaffhauſen, and Appenzel, made no change therein; they having ſubſcribed to [396] the ſame terms which Fribourg and So⯑leure had accepted. Not to enter, how⯑ever, into a minute detail of this particu⯑lar convention; I will endeavour to lay before you a ſhort, but clear, view of the general Helvetic confederacy.

The code of public law, if I may ſo ex⯑preſs it, between the combined republics of Swiſſerland, is founded upon the treaty of ^* Sempach in 1393; upon that of Stantz; and upon the treaty of peace concluded at Araw, between the proteſtant and catho⯑lic cantons. It appears from theſe ſe⯑veral treaties, which include or enlarge thoſe which preceded, that the Helvetic union is a perpetual defenſive alliance be⯑tween [397] the thirteen independent contract⯑ing powers, to protect each other by their united forces againſt all foreign enemies whatſoever. Accordingly, if any member of the union ſhould be attacked, that particular canton has a right to de⯑mand ſuccours from the ^* whole confe⯑derate [398] body; and in caſe of war, the ſe⯑veral forces to be ſupplied by each canton are preciſely ſpecified. It appears how⯑ever, from the ſtipulations to which the five later cantons agreed, that they do not, in every reſpect, enjoy equal prero⯑gatives with the eight antient ones. For, the latter reſerved to themſelves a right, in caſe the queſtion for declaring war a⯑gainſt any foreign ſtate, ſhould be unani⯑mouſly carried in their aſſembly, to re⯑quire the aſſiſtance of the other cantons, [399] without aſſigning the motive of ſuch their reſolution: whereas the former, cannot commence hoſtilities without the con⯑ſent of the confederates; and if the ene⯑my ſhould be willing to enter into a ne⯑gotiation concerning the matter in diſpute, it muſt be referred to the arbitration of the eight antient cantons. It is farther ſtipulated, that if a war ſhould break out between the laſt-mentioned cantons, the others are to obſerve a ſtrict neutrality.

The next eſſential object of the league, is, to preſerve peace and good order a⯑mong the ſeveral cantons. It is there⯑fore covenanted, that all public diſcords of this nature ſhall be finally ſettled be⯑tween the contending parties in an ami⯑cable manner: and for this purpoſe par⯑ticular judges and arbiters are expreſly appointed, and empowered to compoſe the diſſenſions that may happen to ariſe. To this is added a reciprocal guarantee of the forms of government eſtabliſhed in the reſpective commonwealths: for by the convention of Stantz it was agreed, in order to prevent internal factions and revolts in any of the al⯑lied cantons, that, in caſe of rebellion, [400] the magiſtracy of ſuch canton ſhould be aſſiſted by the forces of the others. Ac⯑cordingly, the hiſtory of Swiſſerland af⯑fords many inſtances of protection and aſſiſtance reciprocally given between the confederates, in defence and ſupport of the conſtitution of particular cantons.

No ſeparate engagement whatſoever, which any of the cantons may enter into, can be valid, if inconſiſtent with the fundamental articles of this general union: or in other words, the recipro⯑cal contract between the members of the league, ſuperſedes every other ſpecies of public obligation. With the foregoing exceptions, the ſeveral combined ſtates are diſtinct from, and independent of, each other: they may contract alliances with any power, or reject the ſame, al⯑though all the others have acceded to it^*; may grant auxiliary troops to fo⯑reign [401] princes; may prohibit the money of the other cantons from being current within their own territories; may im⯑poſe taxes; and, in ſhort, perform every other act of abſolute ſovereignty.

The public affairs of the Helvetic bo⯑dy and their allies are diſcuſſed and de⯑termined in the ſeveral diets: and theſe are,

I. The general diets; or general aſ⯑ſemblies of the thirteen cantons, and of their allies.

II. The particular diets; as thoſe of the eight antient cantons; thoſe of the proteſtant cantons with the deputies of the proteſtants of Glaris and Appen⯑zel, of the towns of St. Gallen, Bienne, and Mulhauſen, called the evangelical conferences; thoſe of the Roman catho⯑lic cantons with the deputies of the ca⯑tholics of Glaris and Appenzel, of the [402] abbot of St. Gallen, and of the repub⯑lic of the Vallais, called the golden al⯑liance: as alſo ſeveral others of particu⯑lar cantons, which, beſides being mem⯑bers of the general confederacy, have diſtinct and ſeparate alliances with each other.

The ordinary meetings of the general diet are held once a year, and continue ſitting one month; the extraordinary ones are ſummoned upon particular oc⯑caſions. This diet is principally con⯑vened to deliberate upon the beſt mea⯑ſures for the ſecurity of the Helvetic bo⯑dy. The canton of Zuric appoints the time and place of the metting; and convokes the deputies by a circular let⯑ter. The deputy of the laſt-mentioned canton alſo preſides, unleſs the diet is holden in the territory of any of the other cantons; in which caſe, the de⯑puty of that canton in which the aſſem⯑bly meets, is preſident.

This diet formerly aſſembled at Baden; but ſince the concluſion of the civil war in 1712, between Zuric and Berne on one ſide, and Lucerne, Uri, Schweitz, Underwalden, and Zug, on the other, [403] (when the five latter renounced the co⯑regency of Baden) the diets have been holden at Frauenfield in Thurgaw. Each canton ſends as many deputies as it thinks proper.

It would be deſcending into a tedious detail, and treſpaſſing too much on your patience, were I to enter into the parti⯑cular connections which the ſeveral al⯑lies have either with the whole Helvetic body, or with ſome of the cantons; and the different nature of theſe reſpective alliances. Suffer me only to remark in general, that the allies may be divided into aſſociate, and into confederate ſtates: of the former, are the abbot and town of St. Gallen, the towns of Bienne and Mulhauſen: of the latter, are the Gri⯑ſons, and the republic of the Vallais; the town and republic of Geneva; the principality of Neuchatel, and the biſhop of Baſil.

The ſtates thus compriſed under the general denomination of aſſociates and confederates, enjoy, by virtue of this union, a total independence on all fo⯑reign dominion; and partake of all the privileges and immunities granted to the [404] Swiſs in other countries. And notwith⯑ſtanding ſome of theſe ſtates are allied only with ſome particular cantons; yet in caſe any of them ſhould be attacked, thoſe cantons with whom they are in al⯑liance would not only ſupply them with ſuccours, but would alſo require the joint aſſiſtance of the other cantons: ſo that by theſe means, ſhould any one member of the whole body be attacked, all the others would come to its defence, either as guarantees themſelves, or as auxiliaries of the actual guarantees^*.

LETTER XXXIII.

I Was very much ſtruck, upon my en⯑trance into Berne, with its ſingular neatneſs and beauty: I do not remember to have ſeen any town (Bath alone ex⯑cepted) the firſt appearance whereof had ſo pleaſing an effect. The principal ſtreet is broad and long: the houſes are moſtly uniform, built of a greyiſh ſtone upon arcades, which are admirably well paved. Through the middle of the ſtreet runs a lively ſtream of the cleareſt water, in a channel conſtructed for its reception: but beſides this ſtream, it abounds with foun⯑tains not leſs ornamental to the place than beneficial to the inhabitants. The river Aar flows cloſe by the town, and indeed almoſt ſurrounds it; winding its ſerpentine courſe over a rocky bottom much below the level of the ſtreets; and for a conſiderable way forming by its banks, which are very ſteep and craggy, a kind of natural rampart. The cathe⯑dral church is a noble piece of Gothic architecture: it ſtands upon a platform [406] that has been raiſed at a great expence from the bed of the river; and which commands as fine a view as any I have ſeen in Swiſſerland.

The country around is richly culti⯑vated, and agreeably diverſified with hills, lawns, wood, and water; the river flows rapidly below, and an abrupt chain of high and rugged alps appear at ſome diſ⯑tance, whoſe tops are covered with eter⯑nal ſnow. Such an aſſemblage of beauti⯑ful objects would in any view preſent a moſt ſtriking proſpect; but its effect be⯑comes greatly heightened when ſeen from the midſt of a large town.

All the public buildings are in a moſt noble ſimplicity of ſtyle, and announce the riches and grandeur of the republic. The arſenal contains arms for ſixty thou⯑ſand men, beſides a conſiderable quan⯑tity of cannon, which were caſt here. The granary is an excellent inſtitution, ſimilar to that of Zuric; but it differs from that of Geneva, as the expence does not fall chiefly upon the poor: for, the bakers are not compelled by government to purchaſe their corn from the public magazine. This reſervoir, if I may be [407] allowed the expreſſion, always contains a large proviſion of that commodity; which is ſupplied, in conſequence of particular agreements for that purpoſe, by France, Sardinia, and Holland; and out of which they partly furniſh Geneva, Neuchatel, and Baſil. The hoſpitals, which are large, airy, and well built, are excellently re⯑gulated, both with reſpect to the care and attention paid to the ſick, and to the cleanlineſs of the ſeveral wards. The town is kept neat by a number of felons, who are ſentenced to this drudgery dur⯑ing a certain time, according to the na⯑ture of their offences; and, as capital con⯑demnations are very rare, this is the moſt uſual manner of puniſhing their criminals. Theſe culprits are diſtinguiſhed by an iron collar, with a hook projecting over their heads.

The library is a ſmall but well-choſen collection, and contains ſome very cu⯑rious manuſcripts: of theſe, Mr. Sinner, a man of great erudition, has publiſhed a very ſatisfactory and judicious cata⯑logue. He has not only ſet forth their titles, and aſcertained their age, but has alſo given a general and ſuccinct account of their reſpective ſubjects; and from ma⯑ny [408] of them has publiſhed extracts equally curious and intereſting. Among theſe MSS. are ſome of the thirteenth century, conſiſting of ſeveral ſongs and romances, of the Troubadours, written in that and the preceding ages, which merit the at⯑tention of thoſe who are converſant in that ſpecies of antient poetry.

I have been much diſappointed in not ſeeing the great Haller: his very infirm ſtate of health would not admit of his receiv⯑ing a viſit from us^*. I need not tell you how eminently that celebrated author has diſtinguiſhed himſelf in every ſpecies of polite literature, and in ſeveral branches of natural philoſophy. Unlike certain mi⯑nute philoſophers of the preſent age, whoſe atheiſtical and infidel writings are too well known and too widely diſſeminated; this great man is ſo unfaſhionable as to have followed the ſteps of a Locke and a Newton; and to have proved himſelf, both in his life and his writings, a zeal⯑ous friend and able advocate of chriſtia⯑nity. When literature and philoſophy, inſtead of being employed, as they too often have been, in ſupporting ſceptical [409] tenets by artful ſophiſtry, thus lend their joint aſſiſtance to the cauſe of re⯑ligion; it is then only that they become an honour to the poſſeſſor, and a benefit to ſociety.

Learning is neither ſo univerſally en⯑couraged, nor ſo ſucceſsfully cultivated here as at Zuric; the academical ſtudies are almoſt ſolely directed to thoſe branches of knowledge more eſſentially neceſſary for entering into the church. The ſociety for the promotion of agriculture, is al⯑moſt the only eſtabliſhment that directly tends to the progreſs of the arts and ſci⯑ences: and even this meets with no great countenance from government. There is but little commerce in the capital: ſome few manufactures indeed (chiefly of li⯑nen and ſilk) have been eſtabliſhed; but they are carried on by thoſe only who have no proſpect of being admitted into the ſovereign council. For thoſe fami⯑lies who have any influence in public af⯑fairs, would hold themſelves degraded, were they to engage in any branch of com⯑merce; and as offices of the ſtate, ex⯑cept bailliages, are in general not very profitable, nor indeed numerous, many of [410] them enter, as their ſole reſource, into foreign armies. With reſpect to thoſe among them who have ſufficient intereſt to be choſen into the ſovereign council; as they muſt have attained the full age of twenty-nine before they are eligible; and in the mean while, as very few of them apply their minds to literary pur⯑ſuits; they uſually, from mere want of em⯑ployment, waſte the interval in an idle and diſſipated courſe of life. Nevertheleſs, there are ſeveral members of the ſovereign coun⯑cil, who are juſtly diſtinguiſhed for their political abilities: and, being thoroughly acquainted with the reſpective intereſts of the different powers of Europe, they know perfectly well how to avail them⯑ſelves of every conjuncture which may be turned to the advantage, or the glory, of their own republic.

The inhabitants of Berne value them⯑ſelves much upon their politeneſs to ſtrangers: and indeed it is but doing them ſtrict juſtice to acknowledge, that they have ſhewn us (with that peculiar frankneſs and unaffected affability, I have ſo often had occaſion to admire in the Swiſs) every civility in their power.

[411] According to the hiſtorians of Berne, this town was built by Berchtold V, duke of Zaeringen; and was, from its foun⯑dation, an imperial city. Upon the death of the duke in 1218, the emperor Fre⯑deric II. conferred upon the inhabitants conſiderable privileges, and drew up alſo a code of legiſlation, which forms the baſis of their preſent civil laws. The liberty which this town enjoyed, attracted great numbers of inhabitants from the adjacent country, who found here a ſure aſylum from the oppreſſion of the nobles. From its firſt foundation, Berne was engaged in perpetual wars with its neighbours, and for ſome time with the houſe of Auſtria: notwithſtanding which, the town continued to aggrandiſe itſelf by degrees, and conſiderably to enlarge its territory. In the year 1352, Berne ac⯑ceded to the Helvetic confederacy; and ſo great was its power, even at that early period, that it obtained the ſecond rank after Zuric, among the allied ſtates. Since the acquiſition of the Pays de Vaud, the domains of this canton form nearly the third part of Swiſſerland, and about the fourth of its actual population: it contains about three hundred and fifty [412] thouſand ſouls, beſides about eleven thou⯑ſand in the capital. By the introduction of the reformation into the town in 1528, the government acquired a large en⯑creaſe of its revenues, ariſing from the eccleſiaſtical poſſeſſions, which were very conſiderable. Not long after that pe⯑riod, the whole canton followed the ex⯑ample of the capital, and the reform⯑ed religion was univerſally eſtabliſhed throughout its extenſive dominions.

The Pays de Vaud having been con⯑quered from the houſe of Savoy, as the German diviſion of the canton was from the ſtates of the empire; juſtice is ad⯑miniſtered, and the taxes regulated in thoſe two provinces by a ſet of laws and cuſtoms peculiar to each: for, they have reſpectively preſerved the ſeveral diſtinct uſages which were in force among them before they came into the poſſeſſion of Berne. Each of theſe diviſions has its treaſurer and its chamber of appeal, reſi⯑dent at Berne: the chamber of appeal be⯑longing to the Pays de Vaud, judges in the laſt reſort; but the inhabitants of the German diſtrict may again appeal from theirs to the ſovereign council.

LETTER XXXIV.

WERE I to attempt entering into an exact diſquiſition concerning the government of Berne; my letter would not only exceed its proper limits, but would hardly be contained within the extent of an ordinary pamphlet. I am perſuaded, therefore, you will readily ex⯑cuſe me from putting your patience to ſo tedious a trial: but you would pro⯑bably think me very inconſiſtent indeed, if, after having already, in the courſe of our correſpondence, deſcended, too mi⯑nutely perhaps, into leſs intereſting de⯑tails; I ſhould totally paſs over in ſilence a government, the wiſdom of whoſe ad⯑miniſtration is ſo generally and ſo juſtly admired. Let me endeavour then, ſen⯑ſible as I am of my inability to treat the ſubject as it deſerves, to ſketch at leaſt the general outlines of this conſti⯑tution.

The ſovereign power reſides in the great council of two hundred; which when compleat conſiſts of 299 mem⯑bers. They are choſen from the [414] burghers of the town; from whom they are conſidered as deriving their power, and as acting by deputation. The au⯑thority with which they are inveſted, is in ſome reſpects the moſt abſolute and uncontrouled of any of the ariſtocratical ſtates of Swiſſerland. The government of Lucerne is called, indeed, the moſt ariſtocratical of all the cantons; and it may be ſo, perhaps, with reſpect to the ſmall number of families, to which the adminiſtration of affairs is entruſted: but no war can be declared, no peace concluded, no alliance made, no taxes impoſed, without the conſent of their burghers in a general aſſembly. At Fri⯑bourg and Soleure the burghers are like⯑wiſe convened upon particular occaſions. Whereas the ſovereign council of Berne (and it is a peculiarity which diſtinguiſhes it from all the other ſimilar republics in the confederate cantons) is reſtrained by no conſtitutional check of this kind: as a general aſſembly of the burghers is never convened for any purpoſe whatſoever.

The executive powers of government are delegated by the ſovereign council to the [415] ſenate, or ſmaller council choſen by them⯑ſelves out of their own body: the former aſſembles ordinarily three times a week, and extraordinarily upon particular occa⯑ſions; the latter every day, Sundays ex⯑cepted.

The ſenate, compriſing the two advoy⯑ers, or chiefs of the republic, is com⯑poſed of twenty-ſeven members: and from this ſelect body are taken the prin⯑cipal magiſtrates of the commonwealth. When a vacancy happens in this ſenate, the mode of election is as follows:—Twenty-ſix balls, three of which are golden, are put into a box, and drawn by the ſeveral members: thoſe who draw the three golden ones, nominate three elec⯑tors out of their body. In the ſame manner of balloting, ſeven members are choſen from the great council, who alſo nominate ſeven electors out of their own body. Theſe ten electors fix upon a certain number of candidates, not ex⯑ceeding ten, nor leſs than ſix; and thoſe among theſe candidates, who have the feweſt votes in the ſovereign council, re⯑tire, till their number is reduced to four: then four balls, two golden and two ſil⯑ver, [416] are drawn by the four remaining can⯑didates; the two who draw the former are put in nomination, and he who has the greateſt number of ſuffrages in the ſovereign council, is choſen. But in order to be eligible, the candidate muſt have been a member of the great coun⯑cil ten years, and muſt be married.

The ſovereign council is generally filled up every ten years; as within that pe⯑riod there is uſually a deficiency of eighty members to complete the whole number of two hundred and ninety-nine: and this council determines the time of elec⯑tion, by vote. That point being ſettled, each advoyer nominates two of the new members; each ſeizenier, and each mem⯑ber of the ſenate, one apiece: two or three other officers of ſtate have likewiſe the ſame privilege. There is alſo a cer⯑tain number of perſons who claim, by virtue of their offices, a right of being elected: and their claim is generally ad⯑mitted. Theſe ſeveral nominations and pretenſions, commonly amount, in the whole, to about fifty of the new mem⯑bers: the remaining vacancies are filled up by the ſuffrages of the ſenate, and the ſeizeniers.

[417] The Seizeniers are ſixteen members of the great council, drawn yearly from the abbayes or tribes; two from each of the four great ones, and one from each of the remaining eight. The candidates are generally ^* taken from thoſe who have exerciſed the office of bailiffs; and they are elected, not by a plurality of voices, but by lot. Every year during three days at Eaſter, all other employments in the ſtate are ſuppoſed to ceaſe, except thoſe of the bannerets and the ſeizeniers, who, during this ſuſpenſion, are inveſted with a power ſimilar to that of the Roman cenſors; and in caſe of mal-adminiſtra⯑tion may deprive any member of the great council, or of the ſenate, of his ſeat: but it is a power which they never exer⯑ciſe. However, ſhould they think pro⯑per [418] to exert it, their ſentence muſt be confirmed by the ſovereign council.

The principal magiſtrates are, the two advoyers, the two treaſurers, and the four bannerets: they are each of them choſen by a majority of voices in the ſovereign council, and are yearly confirmed in their reſpective offices. The advoyers hold their poſt for life; the treaſurers, ſix years; and the bannerets, four. At Eaſter the advoyer in office delivers up his authority, in full council, to his col⯑league. The reigning advoyer, as he is called, has a particular ſeat aſſigned to him in the council-chamber, ſomewhat elevated, under a canopy: the ſeal of the republic lies upon the table before him. He never delivers his opinion except it is demanded; and he has no vote un⯑leſs the numbers are equal; and in that caſe, he has the caſting voice. The ad⯑voyer out of office, is the firſt ſenator in rank, and preſident of the ſecret coun⯑cil.

The two treaſurers, one for the Ger⯑man diſtrict, and the other for the Pays de Vaud, form, in conjunction with the four bannerets, an oeconomical chamber, [419] or council of finances: this council exa⯑mines and paſſes the accounts of the bailiffs, and receives the revenues of all others, that are accountable to govern⯑ment. The four bannerets, together with the advoyer out of office, as alſo the ſenior treaſurer, and two members of the ſenate, compoſe a committee or ſecret council; in which all ſtate affairs, that require greater ſecrecy than is likely to be obſerved in ſo numerous a body as the ſovereign council, are diſcuſſed: and they have the power of determining upon points of very conſiderable importance.

I have only deſcribed (and as conciſely as I was able, conſiſtently with giving you a general idea of their nature) theſe eight magiſtracies, as being the chief offices of the ſtate, and exerciſed by members of the ſenate. But notwithſtanding that the ge⯑neral form of this conſtitution, is entirely ariſtocratical; and though the ſenate poſ⯑ſeſſes a very conſiderable influence; yet it does not enjoy that almoſt excluſive au⯑thority, which is obſervable in the go⯑vernments of Lucerne, Fribourg, and So⯑leure. For, by ſeveral wiſe and well-ob⯑ſerved regulations, the ſovereign council, [420] although it delegates the moſt important concerns of government to the ſenate, yet aſſembles, at ſtated times, and ſuperin⯑tends the adminiſtration of public affairs. In ſhort, the ſovereign council of Berne conſtantly convene, and exerciſe their au⯑thority, independent of the ſenate.

The adminiſtration is carried on, throughout the ſeveral departments of government, with a wonderful preciſion; and every ordinance is executed with as much diſpatch as in a monarchical ſtate. The ariſtocratical form is frequently, of all modes of government, the moſt op⯑preſſive to the people; as, inſtead of one deſpot, they are liable to ſuffer under the tyranny of many. But this objection will not hold with reſpect to Berne, or any other of the ariſtocratical ſtates of Swiſ⯑ſerland: they are, each of them, ad⯑miniſtred with great wiſdom and mode⯑ration; and the reſpective rulers are par⯑ticularly cautious not to encroach upon the privileges of the ſubject.

The canton of Berne is divided into a certain number of diſtricts, called bail⯑liages; over which, bailiffs are choſen from the ſovereign council: and, as theſe [421] are the moſt profitable poſts under the government, they are the great objects of general purſuit. Formerly the bailiffs were elected by the majority of voices in the council; but as this method render⯑ed the members entirely dependent upon thoſe who had the chief credit and in⯑fluence in the commonwealth; a law paſſed in 1712, which altered the mode of election, and they are now choſen by lot. No competitor however can be re⯑ceived as a candidate, in oppoſition to one who has been longer a member of the ſovereign council than himſelf: for inſtance, he who was admitted a mem⯑ber in 1766, cannot ſtand againſt one who was choſen in 1756. None but married men are capable of being elected into this office, nor can any perſon be choſen more than once for the principal bailliages; thoſe of a leſs valuable kind may be poſſeſſed three times.

The ſeveral bailiffs are repreſentatives of the ſovereign power in their reſpective diſtricts. Accordingly, they put in force the edicts of government; collect the public revenues; act as juſtices of the peace; and are judges in civil and crimi⯑nal [422] cauſes, except where there is any local juriſdiction. However, in civil cauſes, beyond a certain value, an ap⯑peal lies to the courts of Berne: and in criminal ones, the proceſs, after it is made out in the bailiff's court, under⯑goes a reviſion in the ſenate, who re⯑fer it to the criminal chamber; and having received the report, paſs ſen⯑tence finally; unleſs in capital caſes, when their ſentence muſt be con⯑firmed by the ſovereign council. The bailiff delivers in his accounts to the oeconomical chamber, to which court an appeal lies, in caſe of exaction, either on the part of the bailiff, or of his offi⯑cers: and with reſpect to thoſe miſde⯑meanors that are puniſhable by fine, and of which the bailiff is entitled to a ſhare; the quantum of the reſpective penalties is ſettled by the legiſlature, with the moſt ſcrupulous exactneſs, and not left to the arbitrary deciſion of an intereſted judge.

From all theſe conſiderations it ſhould ſeem, that every poſſible precaution has been taken by government to prevent the extortions of the bailiffs: but inſtances [423] have not been wanting to prove, that theſe laws and regulations, wiſe and ſtrict as they are, may be eluded. Indeed there appears to be one circumſtance, which muſt render appeals for redreſs againſt the exactions of the bailiffs (un⯑leſs of the moſt notorious and flagrant kind) not always to be heard with impar⯑tiality; the council of two hundred, before whom theſe appeals are finally brought, conſiſting of members, who either have been, who are, or who expect to be, bailiffs: and thus the judges are in ſome meaſure intereſted to ſcreen the offen⯑ders. It muſt be acknowledged that this is one of the greateſt defects in the admi⯑niſtration of juſtice: nevertheleſs, its ill conſequence in the government of Berne, has been much exaggerated by ſome wri⯑ters; as it is certain, that where bailiffs have been guilty of oppreſſions, fre⯑quent examples occur of their being im⯑partially and ſeverely puniſhed.

The profits of this office ariſe from a certain portion of the different taxes and duties, paid to government in the re⯑ſpective bailliages. In the German divi⯑ſion [424] of the canton, the bailiff is entitled, upon the death of every peaſant, to a certain determinate part of the inheri⯑tance: his ſhare, it is true, is very in⯑conſiderable; nevertheleſs, in ſome ſitua⯑tions it may prove a very diſtreſſing and oppreſſive tax upon the family. How⯑ever, this is the only inſtance I have met with, where the peaſants are liable to any impoſition, which can juſtly be deemed grievous.

Sumptuary laws are in force through⯑out this canton; and the wearing of gold, ſilver, lace, &c. and even of ſilk, is expreſsly prohibited. The chamber of reform, however, has found it neceſſary, upon ſome occaſions, to relax the rigour of theſe laws. Indeed, the vaſt ſtrides, which luxury has made within this century, is very perceivable throughout Swiſſer⯑land: and there is no place where its pro⯑greſs has been more rapid than at Berne. The attention of government has not been wanting to reſtrain it; as appears by the laws that have repeatedly been en⯑acted for that purpoſe: an attention, however, which in many inſtances has not proved altogether as ſucceſsful, as it [425] was well directed; notwithſtanding the ſovereign council has given the ſeveral fines incurred by thoſe perſons who tranſ⯑greſs theſe ordinances, to the members of the chamber of reform. In one reſpect, however, their laudable endeavours have been more effectual. Not long ago the ſpirit of gaming had ariſen in Berne to ſuch an extravagant heighth, as to have overwhelmed ſeveral families in total ruin. Upon this occaſion the ſovereign council interpoſed its authority, by very ſalutary regulations: and, in order to en⯑force the obſervance of them the more ſtrictly, every member of that council is obliged to take an oath, by which he ſwears that he will inform againſt any tranſgreſſor that comes within his obſer⯑vation. By this law all public games of hazard are expreſsly prohibited; and in other kind of games, the parties are re⯑ſtrained from playing for more than a certain ſum particularly ſpecified.

Although there are no ſtanding armies in Swiſſerland, yet in many of the can⯑tons, and particularly in this, the militia is ſo well regulated, that government could aſſemble a very conſiderable body [426] of men at a moment's warning. To this end, every male towards the age of ſix⯑teen is enrolled in the militia; and about a third of the whole number are formed into particular regiments, compoſed of fu⯑ſileers and electionaries; the former con⯑ſiſting of batchelors, and the latter of married men. Every perſon thus en⯑rolled, is obliged to provide himſelf, at his own expence, with an uniform, a muſket, and a certain quantity of powder and ball: and no peaſant is allowed to marry, unleſs he produces his uniform and his arms. Every year a certain number of officers, who are called Land Majors, are deputed by the council of war, throughout the canton, to inſpect the arms of the ſoldiers, to complete the regiments, and to exerciſe the militia: and upon their return they make their report to that council. Beſides this annual review, the regiments are occaſionally exerciſed by particular veteran ſoldiers, appointed for that purpoſe.

Beſides the arms which are kept in the arſenal of Berne, there is alſo a cer⯑tain quantity in the arſenal of each bail⯑liage, ſufficient for the militia of that [427] diſtrict; and likewiſe a ſum of money amounting to three months pay, which is appropriated to the electionaries in caſe of actual ſervice. The dragoons are cho⯑ſen from the ſubſtantial framers; as each perſon is obliged to provide his own horſe and accoutrements. In time of peace, the advoyer out of office, is preſident of the council of war; and a member of that council is commander of the militia of the Pays de Vaud; but in time of war a general in chief is nominated, who com⯑mands all the forces of the republic.

A certain number of regiments being thus always in readineſs, ſignals are fixed on the higheſt part of each bailliage, for the aſſembling of the militia at a particular place appointed for that purpoſe in each diſtrict; and there they receive orders where to march.

Swelled as my letter already is to an immoderate ſize, and much more ſo than I intended, yet I cannot forbear trying your patience a little longer, juſt to men⯑tion an inſtitution, which ſtrikes me as well for its ſingularity as for its utility: I mean what is called the exterior ſtate. It is a model in miniature (if I may ſo [428] expreſs myſelf) of the ſovereign council, and reſembles its prototype in every cir⯑cumſtance. This exterior ſtate is com⯑poſed of thoſe burghers, who have not at⯑tained the age requiſite for entering into the council of two hundred: they aſſem⯑ble frequently, and go through all the regular forms of government. They have their great council, their ſenate, their two advoyers, regent and non-regent, their treaſurers, their bannerets, their ſei⯑zeniers; in ſhort, every magiſtrate and officer of ſtate which belong to the con⯑ſtitution; all of whom are choſen in the uſual manner, and with the accuſtomed ceremonies. The poſt of advoyer in this mimic community is ſolicited with great aſſiduity, and ſometimes obtained at a conſiderable expence; as the ſucceſs⯑ful candidate is ſure of being admitted into the great council of two hundred, without any farther recommendation. This body poſſeſſes a certain number of bailliages, which conſiſt of ſeveral ruined caſtles diſperſed over the canton: it has alſo its common treaſure, and its debts. In this latter article, however, it by no means reſembles the actual government of [429] Berne; which is not only free from debts, but poſſeſſed of a very conſiderable fund in reſerve.

This remarkable inſtitution, may be conſidered as a political ſeminary for the youth of Berne. It renders them ac⯑quainted with the conſtitution of their country; and, as in their frequent aſſem⯑blies the ſeveral members debate upon all kinds of political ſubjects, it affords them an opportunity of exerciſing and improv⯑ing their talents; and by that means of becoming more capable of ſerving the public, whenever they may be admitted to a ſhare in the adminiſtration of govern⯑ment.

LETTER XXXV.

YOU have heard, perhaps, of Mi⯑chel Schuppach, the famous Swiſs doctor; of whoſe intuitive ſagacity in diſ⯑covering the ſeat of diſorders, and ap⯑plying ſuitable remedies to them, many wonderful ſtories are recounted by tra⯑vellers, [430] and which generally, I ſuppoſe, have encreaſed in the marvellous, like Virgil's Progreſs of Fame, in proportion as they receded from the ſcene of action. I am now lodged in the houſe of this celebrated Aeſculapius: it is ſituated above the village of Langenau, on the ſide of a ſteep mountain; and from that cir⯑cumſtance he is generally known by the appellation of the phyſician of the moun⯑tain.

Upon our arrival here we found the doctor in his apartment, ſurrounded by a number of peaſants, who were conſulting him upon their reſpective complaints; each having brought with him a ſmall bottle, containing ſome of his water: for, it is by inſpecting the urine that this medical ſage pretends to judge of the ſtate of the pa⯑tient. His figure is extremely corpulent; he has a penetrating eye; and one of the beſt-humoured countenances I ever ſaw. He ſets himſelf oppoſite to the perſon who conſults him, one moment examining the water, and the next the patient; and continues regarding alternately the one and the other for ſome time, always whiſt⯑ling during the intervals. He then opens [431] the ſtate of the caſe, acquaints the con⯑ſultant with the nature of his complaints, and has often the good fortune to hit upon the true cauſe. In a word, his knack of diſcovering diſorders by urine, has gained ſuch implicit faith in his ſkill, that one might as well doubt of the Pope's infallibility before a zealous catholic, as of the doctor's in the preſence of his pa⯑tients. He has certainly performed ſe⯑veral great cures; and the rumour of them hath brought him patients from all quar⯑ters of Europe. There are at this time in his houſe, and in the village, ſeveral En⯑gliſh and French people, together with many Swiſs, who are come hither for his advice.

The doctor was formerly, it ſeems, a village ſurgeon, has a ſlight tincture of anatomy, and is eſteemed a proficient in botany and chemiſtry; but his reputa⯑tion as a phyſician has now been eſta⯑bliſhed ſome years. He is ſaid to have but little acquaintance with the theory of phyſic; the greateſt part of his know⯑ledge being derived from his extenſive practice, notwithſtanding he never ſtirs a quarter of a mile from his own houſe; [432] for he would not take the trouble of go⯑ing to Berne, even to attend the King of France.

It is more than probable, that much of this extraordinary man's ſucceſs in his practice, is owing to the great faith of his patients, to the benefit they receive from change of climate, to the ſalubri⯑ous air of this mountain, and to the amuſement ariſing from that conſtant ſuc⯑ceſſion of different company which aſ⯑ſemble in this place, in order to apply to him for aſſiſtance. But whatever may have been the cauſes of his celebrity, it has come to him, as all accounts agree, unſought for by himſelf. He has cer⯑tainly many excellent qualities: humane and charitable to the higheſt degree; he not only furniſhes the indigent peaſants who conſult him, with medicines gratis, but generally makes them a preſent in money beſides; and he always appropriates a certain portion of his gains to the poor of his pariſh. His wife, as alſo his grand⯑daughters who live with him, are dreſſed like the peaſant women of the country; and he has ſhewn his good ſenſe in giv⯑ing the latter no better than a plain edu⯑cation: [433] the eldeſt he beſtowed in mar⯑riage, when ſhe was but fifteen, upon one of his aſſiſtants, and gave with her 1300l.; no inconſiderable portion for this country. He procured a match for her ſo early, he ſaid, to prevent her being ſpoiled by the young gentlemen tell⯑ing her ſhe was pretty, and inſpiring her with the ambition of marrying above her rank.

If domeſtic harmony, and the moſt per⯑fect ſimplicity of manners, have any pre⯑tenſions to pleaſe, you would be highly delighted with this rural family. The wife is a notable, active woman, and not only ſuperintends all the houſhold affairs with remarkable cleverneſs, but even per⯑forms great part of the buſineſs with her own hands: ſhe aſſiſts her huſband like⯑wiſe in making up his medicines; and as he talks no other language than the Swiſs-German, ſhe ſerves occaſionally as his interpreter. And, as a proof of his con⯑fidence in her adminiſtration of his af⯑fairs, ſhe acts alſo as his treaſurer, and receives all his fees; which, in the courſe of a year, amount to a conſiderable ſum: for, although he never demands more [434] than the price of his medicines, yet no gentleman conſults him without giving him an additional gratuity. Many pre⯑ſents have likewiſe been made to herſelf, from perſons who have reaped benefit by her huſband's preſcriptions: ſeveral of theſe conſiſt of valuable trinkets, with which on days of ceremony ſhe decks her⯑ſelf forth to the beſt advantage, in the ſimple dreſs of the country.

The family ſit down to table regularly at twelve o'clock; there are always ſome ſtrangers of the party, conſiſting not only of a certain number of perſons who are under the doctor's care, but of travellers like ourſelves, who are led hither by mo⯑tives of mere curioſity. When the wea⯑ther is fine, and their gueſts more nu⯑merous than uſual, dinner is ſerved out of doors in an open ſhed, that looks upon one ſide of the mountain and the adja⯑cent country, with a diſtant view of the glaciers beyond the lake of Thun. Yeſ⯑terday ſome peaſants, whom the doctor had invited, formed part of our com⯑pany; after dinner, he gave ſome money to thoſe that ſate near him, and ordered one of his grand-daughters to diſtribute [435] his bounty to the others. The benevo⯑lence of the old man, his gaiety and good⯑humour, the chearfulneſs of his family, the gratitude of the poor peaſants, the beauty of the proſpect, and the fineneſs of the weather, formed all together the moſt agreeable and delightful ſcenes I ever be⯑held; and I do not remember in my whole life to have partaken of any meal with a more ſenſible and heart-felt ſa⯑tisfaction.

This ſingular man is very often em⯑ployed in giving his advice from eight in the morning till ſix in the evening, with no other intermiſſion than during the time he is at table. His drugs are of the beſt kind; for he collects the ſimples, as well as diſtills them, himſelf. His houſe, like thoſe of the peaſants, is conſtructed of wood; and, though always full of people, is remarkably neat and clean. In ſhort, every thing about him has the appearance of the pleaſing ſimplicity of former ages.

I had almoſt forgotten to tell you, that I conſulted him this morning myſelf; and aſſuredly I have reaſon to be highly ſa⯑tisfied with his preſcription: for, he told me I was in ſuch good health, that the [436] only advice he had to give me, was ‘"to eat and drink well, to dance, be merry, and take moderate exerciſe."’

It is now Langenau fair, and the vil⯑lage is crowded with the neighbouring peaſants. Great numbers of the men have long beards, and many of them co⯑ver their heads with a woman's ſtraw hat, extremely broad, which gives them a very groteſque appearance: their dreſs is chiefly a coarſe brown cloth jacket without ſleeves; with large puffed breeches of ticking. The women wear their hair plaited be⯑hind in treſſes, with the riband hang⯑ing down below the waiſt; a flat plain ſtraw hat, which is very becoming; a red or brown cloth jacket without ſleeves; a black or blue petticoat bordered with red and ſcarcely reaching below the knees; red ſtockings with black clocks, and no heels to their ſhoes; their ſhifts faſtened cloſe round the throat by a black collar with red ornaments; the better ſort have chains of ſilver between the ſhoulders, brought round under each arm, and fa⯑ſtened beneath the boſom, the ends hang⯑ing down with ſome ſilver ornaments.

I am ſo charmed with the ſituation of [437] this village, the chearfulneſs and ſingula⯑rity of this ruſtic and agreeable family, and the uncommon character of the hu⯑mane doctor, that I could with pleaſure continue here ſome days more: but I am preſſed for time, and have a long journey before me.

LETTER XXXVI.

I TOOK leave of my friends at Lan⯑genau, in order to proceed to Avig⯑non; where I am going to pay a viſit to the Abbé de Sade, author of the inte⯑reſting memoirs of the life of Petrarch. A reſpectable and knowing old gentle⯑man of Soleure, one of the members of their ſovereign council, with whom I had the good fortune to fall into ac⯑quaintance during my ſtay at the doc⯑tor's, offered me a place in his carriage to Berne: and, as my principal object in travelling is to acquire all the uſeful in⯑telligence I can by any means obtain; I very gladly embraced this opportunity of [438] leading my worthy and well-informed companion into a converſation, not only concerning the government of Soleure in particular, but in relation alſo to Swiſ⯑ſerland in general. I found him exceed⯑ingly well-diſpoſed to give me all poſſible ſatisfaction, in anſwer to the ſeveral queſ⯑tions he very obligingly allowed me to propoſe to him.

In the afternoon I ſaw a moſt curious collection in natural hiſtory, belonging to Mr. Springling of Berne: it conſiſted of about 200 ſpecimens, in fine preſer⯑vation, of birds both local and migra⯑tory, that are found in Swiſſerland. A⯑mongſt others, I obſerved the common eagle, the golden vulture, the emberiza nivalis of Linnaeus, and the ſnow hen, whoſe feathers in winter are perfectly white, and in ſummer ſpotted.

The next day I repaſſed through Mo⯑rat and Avenches, and ſlept at Payerne, a town in the canton of Berne, which enjoys conſiderable privileges. Upon the bridge over the Broye, is an antient Ro⯑man inſcription: as I was endeavouring to decypher it, a plain-looking man ac⯑coſted me in a very ſolemn tone of voice, [439] and ſaid, he had often tried to make out the inſcription; and though he could read very well, and had a ſmattering in Latin, he could never make any thing of it. ‘"For," added he, "what can be the meaning of N and I and O, and all thoſe great letters, which ſeem to have no connection with each other? Give me a page of plain Latin, and I know what I am about; I will tranſlate it you from the beginning to the end; but for theſe Ns, Is and Os; take my word for it, notwithſtanding all your pains, you will never be a jot the wiſer."’ However, as I did not ſeem diſpoſed to follow his advice, but continued decy⯑phering the inſcription (which was by no means a difficult taſk) he appeared aſto⯑niſhed at my obſtinacy, and left me, with an apparent air of pity, to my hopeleſs fortune,

Moudon is an handſome town, the prin⯑cipal burgh of a bailliage of the ſame name, and formerly the capital of all that part of the Pays de Vaud, which belonged to the Duke of Savoy. It was alſo the or⯑dinary reſidence of his chief bailiff, and the place where the aſſembly of the ſtates [440] were accuſtomed to meet: at preſent it contains nothing remarkable. The bai⯑liff appointed by the ſovereign council of Berne, reſides in the caſtle of Lucens, built upon the ſummit of a mountain, in a ſituation exceedingly pictureſque. This caſtle formerly belonged to the bi⯑ſhops of Lauſanne, and was one of their favourite ſeats before the reformation was introduced into theſe parts.

At Lauſanne I had propoſed to croſs the Lake of Geneva to Meillerie; in⯑tending to go in queſt of that ro⯑mantic ſpot deſcribed by St. Preux in Rouſſeau's Eloiſe, and which a country⯑man of ours aſſured me he had diſcover⯑ed: from thence I meant to coaſt along the ſouthern ſide of the lake, and touch upon the ſeveral towns of Chablais. Every thing was prepared for this expedition; but unfortunately a ſudden change of weather put an end to theſe amuſing pro⯑jects; no waterman would undertake to carry me. The lake indeed was vehe⯑mently agitated with a moſt violent ſtorm, ſimilar to that which is deſcribed in the letter I have mentioned; and, as I had no Julia to induce me to hazard the dan⯑ger, [441] I felt no inclination to riſk it for the ſake of ſatisfying a mere fanciful cu⯑rioſity. Accordingly I made the beſt of my way by land to Craſſi, through the ſame beautiful variety of country I had paſſed before, and which cannot be re⯑viewed too often.

In my way to Geneva the day follow⯑ing, I dined with an Engliſhman at Gen⯑thoud; where I expected to have had the permiſſion of waiting upon Mr. Bonnet, the celebrated naturaliſt; to whom I was very ambitious of being known. Un⯑fortunately, however, his wife was taken ill; and I was debarred the great ſatis⯑faction I had propoſed to myſelf, of ſee⯑ing and converſing with ſo deſervedly emi⯑nent a philoſopher, whoſe indefatigable induſtry in ſearching into the ſeveral phae⯑nomena of nature, is equalled only by his ingenuity in explaining them.

The town of Geneva lies upon the narroweſt part of the extremity of the lake, where the Rhone iſſues out in two large and rapid ſtreams, which ſoon afterwards unite. That river divides the town into two unequal parts; receives the muddy Arve in its courſe; and flows [442] through part of France into the Medi⯑terranean. Here its waters are of a moſt beautiful tranſparent green, like thoſe of the Rhine when it flows from the lake of Conſtance. The adjacent country is un⯑commonly pictureſque; and I could not ſufficiently admire the magnificent views it exhibits: the ſeveral objects which com⯑poſed this enchanting proſpect, were, the town; the lake; the numerous hills and mountains, particularly the Saleve and the Mole, riſing ſuddenly from the plain in a wonderful variety of fantaſtic forms, backed by the glaciers of Savoy, with their frozen tops gliſtening in the ſun; and the majeſtic Mont Blanc lifting up its head far above the reſt.

The town, which lies partly in the plain upon the borders of the lake, and partly upon a gentle aſcent, is irregularly built; the houſes are high, and moſt of thoſe which ſtand in the trading part of the city, have arcades of wood, which are carried up to their tops. Theſe arcades, which are ſupported by pillars, obſtruct the ſtreets, and give them a gloomy ap⯑pearance; but they are uſeful to the in⯑habitants in protecting them from the [443] ſun and the rain. Geneva is by far the moſt populous town in Swiſſerland: for, Zuric, which comes next to it in reſpect of population, contains ſcarcely thirteen thouſand ſouls; whereas the inhabitants of this place amount to twenty-four thou⯑ſand. This ſuperiority is undoubtedly owing to the greater induſtry and activity of the inhabitants; to its more extenſive commerce; to the facility of purchaſing the burgherſhip, and to the privileges which government allows to all foreign⯑ers who ſettle here. The members of this city are diſtinguiſhed into citizens and burgheſſes, inhabitants and natives. The citizens and burgheſſes are alone admitted to a ſhare in the government: the inha⯑bitants are ſtrangers who are allowed to ſettle in the town with certain privileges; and the natives are the ſons of thoſe inha⯑bitants, who poſſeſs certain additional ad⯑vantages. The two laſt claſſes form a large majority of the people.

The liberal policy of this government, in receiving ſtrangers and conferring the burgherſhip, is the more remarkable as it is contrary to the ſpirit of moſt of the other ſtates of Swiſſerland. It is here, [444] indeed, more neceſſary; the territory of this republic being ſo exceedingly ſmall, that its very exiſtence depends upon the number and induſtry of the people: for, excluſive of the inhabitants of the town, there are ſcarcely ſixteen thouſand ſouls in the whole diſtrict of the Genevois.

To a man of letters, Geneva is parti⯑cularly intereſting; as every branch of ſcience is here cultivated in the moſt ad⯑vantageous manner: learning is diveſted of pedantry, and philoſophy united with a knowledge of the world. The plea⯑ſures of ſociety are here mixed with the purſuits of literature; and elegance and urbanity give a zeſt to the profoundeſt diſquiſitions. Nor are letters confined in this city merely to thoſe who engage in them as a profeſſion, or to thoſe whoſe fortune and leiſure enable them to follow where genius leads, and enter into a ſtu⯑dious life by voluntary choice; even the lower claſs of people are exceedingly well informed; and there is no city in Europe where learning is ſo univerſally diffuſed among the inhabitants. I have had great ſatisfaction in converſing with ſeveral of the ſhop-keepers upon topics both of [445] literature and politics; and was aſto⯑niſhed to find, in this claſs of men, ſo un⯑common a ſhare of knowledge. But the wonder ceaſes, when we are told, that they have all of them received an excellent education at the public academy, where the children of the inhabitants are taught, under the inſpection of the magiſtrates, and at the expence of government.

There is one circumſtance in this ſemi⯑nary, which particularly contributes to the exciting of the induſtry and emulation of the ſtudents: prizes are annually diſ⯑tributed to thoſe, who have diſtinguiſhed themſelves in each claſs. Theſe rewards conſiſt of ſmall medals, and they are con⯑ferred with ſuch ſolemnity as cannot fail of producing great effect. A yearly meeting is held at the cathedral, of all the magiſtrates, profeſſors, and principal in⯑habitants of the town; when the firſt ſyndic himſelf diſtributes, in the moſt public manner, the ſeveral honorary re⯑tributions to thoſe who have deſerved them. I met this morning one of the ſcholars, and, ſeeing his medal, aſked him what it meant? ‘"Je la porte," replied the little man, ſcarce eight years old, [446] "parce que j'ai fait mon devoir."’ I wanted no ſtronger proof to convince me of the beneficial influence, upon young minds, of theſe encouraging and judicious diſtinctions, than appeared from the ſprightly ſpecimen before me.

The inhabitants enjoy the advantage alſo of having free acceſs to the public library; and by this privilege, they not only retain but improve that general tinc⯑ture of learning which they imbibe in their early youth: when I viſited this li⯑brary, it happened to be crowded with ſtudents, who were returning the books they had borrowed, and demanding others. As I paſſed only an hour in this room, I am ill qualified to give you a juſt idea of its contents: I requeſted, however, the librarian to point out to me what was moſt worthy of particular no⯑tice. Accordingly, among other books and manuſcripts, he ſhewed me ſeveral folio volumes containing letters and other writings of Calvin, which have never been publiſhed.

Although Zuingle, Aecolampadius, and Haller, had reformed the greateſt part of Swiſſerland, ſome years before Calvin [447] made his appearance at Geneva; yet the latter, as Voltaire juſtly obſerves, has given his name to the ſectaries of the reformed religion, in the ſame manner as the new continent took its appella⯑tion from Americus Veſpaſius, although the original diſcovery was made by Co⯑lumbus. Neither was Calvin, indeed, the firſt reformer even of Geneva; but, as he gave additional ſtrength and ſolidity to the new eſtabliſhment, and laid the foundation of that eccleſiaſtical form of government, which has ever ſince been invariably oſerved; he totally eclipſed the fame of his friend William Farel, who ſcattered the firſt ſeeds of reforma⯑tion, which the other brought to matu⯑rity. In truth, ſo great was the aſcen⯑dancy which this extraordinary man, al⯑though a ſtranger in Geneva, acquired over the citizens, that he poſſeſſed no in⯑conſiderable influence even in civil mat⯑ters; and bore a large ſhare in ſettling the political conſtitution of the republic. But his care and attention was not wholly confined to eccleſiaſtical and political concerns; he promoted, to the utmoſt of his power, the cultivation of the liberal [448] arts and ſciences, and the ſtudy of ele⯑gant literature. To this end, as well as for the encouraging of theological erudi⯑tion, he prevailed upon the government of Geneva to eſtabliſh a public academy. In this new ſeminary, himſelf, together with his colleagues, eminent for their ſuperior knowledge, read lectures, with ſuch uncommon reputation and ſucceſs, that the youth from all quarters flocked to receive the benefit of them: and it has ſent forth, from its boſom, men of the greateſt diſtinction for their learning and abilities.

There is ſuch a ſtriking ſplendor in the brighter parts of this diſintereſted and celebrated reformer's character, that ren⯑ders one, at the firſt glance, almoſt inſen⯑ſible of thoſe dark ſpots in it, which have ſo juſtly ſullied its glory. But when one reflects a moment on the aſperity, the ar⯑rogance, the preſumptuous opiniatrety, of his temper and conduct, and, above all, on his cruel perſecution of his former friend, the unhappy Servetus; one laments, with abhorrence, the mortifying inſtance this famous man exhibited, that the nobleſt qualities ſometimes mix with the baſeſt, [449] in the compoſition of human nature. With regard, however, to his intolerant principles; it muſt be acknowledged, that the ſame uncharitable ſpirit prevailed alſo among ſome others of the moſt celebrated reformers; who ſeemed to think, by a ſtrange inconſiſtency, and unaccountable blindneſs not only to the genius, but to the cleareſt precepts of the goſpel, that perſecution for conſcience ſake was un⯑chriſtian in every eccleſiaſtical eſtabliſh⯑ment, except their own. This abſurd and dangerous opinion, gave great ad⯑vantage to their adverſaries of the papal hierarchy: for, it is obvious to the meaneſt underſtanding, that, if perſecution is juſti⯑fiable in any particular church, it muſt be ſo univerſally.

The republic of Geneva is, however, at preſent, the moſt tolerating of all the reformed ſtates of Swiſſerland; being the only government in this country, which permits the Lutheran religion to be pub⯑licly exerciſed. In this reſpect the clergy, no leſs wiſely, than ſuitably to the ſpirit, as well as the letter, of the Chriſtian re⯑velation, have renounced the principles of their great patriarch, Calvin: for, although [450] they ſtill hold that able reformer in high veneration; yet they know how to diſtin⯑guiſh his virtues from his defects, and to admire the one without being blindly partial to the other.

LETTER XXXVII.

I Write to you a third time from Ge⯑neva: deſirous of gaining as much information concerning its hiſtory, and the nature of its government, as poſſible; I viſited this town again in my return from Avignon ^* into Swiſſerland. I will now, therefore, endeavour to throw to⯑gether, from my notes relating to the ſubject, all that appears worth communi⯑cating to you; premiſing at the ſame time, that I find them ſuch an indigeſted maſs, as to have reaſon to fear I ſhall not be able to reduce them into ſo clear an order, as not to ſtand much in need of your candour, when you peruſe the following obſervations.

[451] The town of Geneva and its territory, were formerly united to the German em⯑pire, under the ſucceſſors of Charlemain: but as the power of the emperors, feeble even in Germany, was ſtill weaker in the frontier provinces; the biſhops of Ge⯑neva, like ſeveral other great vaſſals of the empire, gradually acquired very conſiderable authority over the city and its domains; which the emperors had no other means of counterbalancing, than by encreaſing the liberties of the people. During theſe times of confuſion, con⯑ſtant diſputes ſubſiſted between the bi⯑ſhops and the counts of the Genevois; for, the latter, although at their firſt inſtitution merely officers of the em⯑peror, and conſidered as vaſſals of the bi⯑ſhops; yet they claimed and aſſerted a right to the excluſive adminiſtration of juſtice. The citizens took advantage of theſe quarrels; and, by ſiding occaſionally with each party, obtained an extenſion of their privileges from both.

But the houſe of Savoy having pur⯑chaſed the county of the Genevois, and ſucceeded to all the prerogatives of the counts, with additional power; the bi⯑ſhops [452] and the people firmly united toge⯑ther, in order to oppoſe the encroach⯑ments of the former, which were no leſs prejudicial to the authority of the one, than to the liberties of the others. Dur⯑ing this period, the reſpective preten⯑ſions of the counts, the biſhops, and the citizens, were ſo various, as to form a government equally ſingular and com⯑plicated. This harmony, however, be⯑tween the biſhops and citizens, was at length broken by the artful management of the counts of Savoy, who had the ad⯑dreſs to procure the epiſcopal ſee for their brothers, and even for their illegitimate children. By theſe methods, their power in the city became ſo enlarged, that, to⯑wards the commencement of the ſixteenth century, Charles III, duke of Savoy, (al⯑though the form of the government was entirely republican) obtained an almoſt ab⯑ſolute authority over the citizens: and he exerciſed it in the moſt unjuſt and ar⯑bitrary manner Hence aroſe perpetual ſtruggles between the duke and the citi⯑zens; the latter continually oppoſing, either by open violence, or ſecret mea⯑ſures, his tyrannical uſurpation: thus [453] two parties were formed; the zealots for liberty were called eidgenoſſen, or confe⯑derates; while the partiſans of the duke were branded with the appellation of mammelucs, or ſlaves.

The treaty of alliance which the town entered into with Berne and Fribourg, in 1526, may be conſidered as the true aera of its liberty and independence: for, not long after, the duke was deſpoiled of his authority; the biſhop driven from the city; a republican form of government firmly eſtabliſhed; and the reformation introduced. From this time, Charles and his ſucceſſors waged inceſſant war againſt the town: but his hoſtilities were ren⯑dered ineffectual, by the intrepid bravery of the citizens, and the aſſiſtance of the canton of Berne.

In 1584 Geneva entered into a treaty of perpetual alliance with Zuric and Berne, (Fribourg having renounced their alliance when the town embraced the re⯑formation) by which treaty, it is allied with the Swiſs cantons.

The laſt attempt of the houſe of Sa⯑voy againſt Geneva, was in 1602; when Charles Emanuel treacherouſly attacked [454] the town during a profound peace. Two hundred of his ſoldiers ſcaled the walls in the night, when the inhabitants were repoſed in unſuſpecting ſecurity; but be⯑ing timely diſcovered, they were repulſed by the deſperate valour of a few citizens, who gloriouſly ſacrificed their lives in defence of the liberties of their country. In memory of this event, an inſcription is fixed upon the town-houſe; and ſome of the ſcaling-ladders, which the enemy made uſe of to enter the town, are pre⯑ſerved in the arſenal. This perfidy oc⯑caſioned a war, which was terminated the year following by a ſolemn treaty; ſince which, uninterrupted peace has been main⯑tained between the houſe of Savoy and Geneva: but it was not till 1754, that the king of Sardinia acknowledged, by a formal act, the independence of this re⯑public.

No ſooner was peace concluded with the houſe of Savoy, than the flames of internal diſcord, ſo apt to kindle in po⯑pular governments, and which had been ſmothered by their common danger from a foreign enemy, began to appear. Ac⯑cordingly, during the greateſt part of the [455] laſt century, to the preſent period, the hiſ⯑tory of Geneva contains little more than a narrative of contentions between the ariſtocratical and the popular party. Theſe mutual ſtruggles have occaſionally been exerted with ſo much violence and ani⯑moſity, as to have threatened, for a mo⯑ment, a total revolution in the ſtate; but happily, however, they have always been compromiſed without producing any fa⯑tal effects.

About the beginning of the preſent century, the power of the council of two hundred was become almoſt abſolute. In order to reſtrain their authority, the po⯑pular party, in 1707, procured a law, by which it was enacted, that every five years a general council of all the citizens and burghers ſhould be holden, to deliberate upon the affairs of the republic. Agree⯑ably to this law, a general aſſembly was convened in 1712; and the very firſt act exerted by the people in this their col⯑lective capacity, was the total abolition of the above-mentioned ordinance. An event of ſo ſingular a nature, can hardly be accounted for upon the general prin⯑ciple of p pular fickleneſs and inconſiſt⯑ency: [456] accordingly Rouſſeau, in his Let⯑tres ecrites de la Montagne, imputes it to the artifices of the magiſtrates; and to the equivocal terms marked upon the bil⯑lets then in uſe. For, the queſtion propoſed to the people being, ‘"Whether the opi⯑nion of the councils, for aboliſhing the periodical general aſſemblies, ſhould paſs into a law?"’ the words employed on the billets delivered for that purpoſe, were, approbation, rejection; ſo that whichever ſide was taken, it came to the ſame point. If the billet of approbation were choſen; the opinion of the councils which rejected the periodical aſſembly, was approved; if that of rejection; then the periodical aſſem⯑bly was rejected of courſe. Accordingly, ſe⯑veral of the citizens afterwards complain⯑ed that they had been deceived, as they ne⯑ver meant to reject the general aſſembly, but only the opinion of the councils^*.

In conſequence of this extraordinary repeal, the power of the ariſtocracy con⯑tinued encreaſing till within theſe few years; when the citizens, by a ſingular conjunction of favourable circumſtances, joined to an uncommon ſpirit of union [457] and perſeverance, have procured ſeveral changes to be made in the conſtitution of Geneva; by which the authority of the magiſtrates has been limited, and the privileges of the people have been en⯑larged. Happy! if they know where to ſtop; leſt, continuing to extend the bounds of their own prerogatives, they ſhake the foundations of civil government, by too much reſtraining the power of the ma⯑giſtrates.

The preſent conſtitution of Geneva, may be conſidered as a mean between that of the other ariſtocratical and po⯑pular cantons of Swiſſerland: more de⯑mocratical than any of the former, inaſ⯑much as the ſovereign and legiſlative au⯑thority entirely reſides in the general aſ⯑ſembly of the citizens and burghers; and more ariſtocratical than the latter, be⯑cauſe the powers veſted in the great and little councils are very conſiderable.

The members of the ſenate, or little council of twenty-five, enjoy, in their corporate capacity, ſeveral prerogatives almoſt as great as thoſe which are poſ⯑ſeſſed by that of the moſt ariſtocratical ſtates. They nominate half the mem⯑bers [458] of the great council; the principal magiſtrates are taken from their body; they convoke the great council and the general aſſembly of the citizens and bur⯑ghers; they previouſly deliberate upon every queſtion which is to be brought in⯑to the great council, and from thence into the general aſſembly: in other words, in them is lodged the power of propo⯑ſing; conſequently, as every act muſt ori⯑ginate from them, no law can paſs with⯑out their approbation. In this ſenate is veſted alſo the chief executive power; the adminiſtration of the finances; and, to a certain degree, juriſdiction in civil and criminal cauſes. They nominate, like⯑wiſe, to moſt of the ſmaller poſts of go⯑vernment; and enjoy the ſole privilege of conferring burgherſhip. They com⯑poſe, moreover, in conjunction with thir⯑ty-five members of their own chooſing, the ſecret council; which never aſſembles but by their convoking, and only upon extraordinary occaſions.

Theſe conſiderable prerogatives, how⯑ever, are counterbalanced as well by the privileges of the great council, as by the franchiſes of the general aſſembly. The [459] prerogatives of the former conſiſt in chooſ⯑ing the members of the ſenate from their own body; in receiving appeals in all cauſes above a certain value; in pardon⯑ing criminals; in diſpoſing of the moſt important charges of government, thoſe excepted which are conferred by the ge⯑neral aſſembly; and in approving or re⯑jecting whatever is propoſed by the ſe⯑nate to be laid before the people.

The ſovereign council, or general aſ⯑ſembly of the people, is compoſed of the citizens and burghers of the town: their number, in general, amounts to about 1,500, but it is ſeldom that more than 1,200 convene; the remainder being ei⯑ther ſettled in foreign countries, or are uſually abſent. I ought to have explain⯑ed to you ſooner, the diſtinction between citizens and burghers: the latter, are ei⯑ther the ſons of citizens or burghers^*, born out of Geneva, or have obtained the burgherſhip by purchaſe; the former, are the ſons of citizens or burghers, born within the town of Geneva. The burghers [460] may be choſen into the council of two hundred, but the citizens can alone enter into the ſenate, and poſſeſs the charges appropriated to that body.

The general aſſembly meets twice a year; chooſes the principal magiſtrates; aſſents to or rejects the laws and regula⯑tions propoſed by the councils; impoſes taxes; contracts alliances; declares war or peace; and nominates one half of the members of the great council. All queſ⯑tions that come before them are decid⯑ed by the majority of voices; and each member delivers his vote without having the liberty of debating. The reſtriction is certainly reaſonable; for, in a popu⯑lar aſſembly, like this of Geneva, com⯑poſed of citizens, the meaneſt of whom is well verſed in the conſtitution of the commonwealth, and where the people in general have a ſtrong propenſity to enter in⯑to political diſcuſſions; if every voter were permitted to ſupport and enforce his opi⯑nion by argument, there would be no end of debate, and the whole time would be conſumed in petulant declamation.

But the principal check to the power [461] of the little council, ariſes from the me⯑thod of electing the ſyndics, and from the right of repreſentation. With reſpect to the former, the four ſyndics, or chiefs of the republic, are choſen annually out of the little council, by the general aſ⯑ſembly; and there muſt be an interval of three years before the ſame members can be again elected. The uſual mode of elec⯑tion is as follows:—The little council no⯑minate eight of their members for can⯑didates, who muſt be approved by the great council; and out of theſe eight, the general aſſembly chooſe the four ſyndics. They have it in their power, however, not only to reject theſe eight propoſed candidates, but alſo all the other mem⯑bers of the ſenate ſucceſſively: and in that caſe, four members are taken from the great council, and propoſed to the general aſſembly. If theſe are appointed ſyndics, they immediately become mem⯑bers of the ſenate; and an equal number of that body are at the ſame time de⯑graded, and retire into the great council. No inſtance, however, has yet occurred of the general aſſembly having exerted [462] this power of expelling four members from the ſenate^*.

With reſpect to the other reſtraint I mentioned upon the power of the little council, viz. the right of repreſentation: every citizen or burgher, either ſingly or in a body, has the privilege of applying to the ſenate in order to procure ſome new re⯑gulation, or of remonſtrating againſt any act of the magiſtracy. Theſe repreſenta⯑tions have proved one of the principal means, perhaps, of ſecuring the liberties of the people from the reſpective en⯑croachments of the two councils; as they have frequently prevented the magiſtrates from ſtretching their authority to the ſame arbitrary extent that has been prac⯑tiſed in ſome of the other commonwealths of Swiſſerland. The magiſtrates are ob⯑liged to give an explicit anſwer to theſe repreſentations; for, if the firſt is not conſidered as ſatisfactory, a ſecond re⯑monſtrance is preſented. According to the nature and importance of the com⯑plaint, the repreſentation is made by a [463] greater or leſs number of citizens; and it has ſometimes happened that each remon⯑ſtrance has been accompanied by ſeveral hundred, in different bodies.

The ſalaries of the ſeveral magiſtrates are ſo inconſiderable, as not to offer any temptation on the ſide of pecuniary emo⯑lument: a ſenſe of honour, a ſpirit of ambition, the deſire of ſerving their coun⯑try, together with that perſonal credit which is derived from exerciſing any of⯑fice in the adminiſtration, are the prin⯑cipal motives which actuate the candidates to ſolicit a ſhare in the magiſtracy. Ac⯑cordingly, the public poſts are generally filled with men of the firſt abilities, and of the moſt reſpectable characters. The revenues of government, at the higheſt calculation, ſcarcely amount to 30,000 pounds a year; a ſum, however, which, by a well-regulated oeconomy, is more than ſufficient to defray the current ex⯑pences: ſo that this republic is enabled to provide for the ſecurity of its ſubjects, from an income, which ſome individuals, both in England and France, ſquander in vain pomp and vicious diſſipation.

It is very remarkable that, in a republic [464] ſo free as this of Geneva, and where the true principles of liberty are ſo well and ſo generally underſtood, there ſhould be no preciſe code of penal laws: for, al⯑though the form of the proceſs is ſettled with great preciſion, yet the trial of the criminal is private, and the puniſhment left to the arbitrary deciſion of the magiſ⯑trate. Nor are the franchiſes of the peo⯑ple aſcertained with that accuracy one might well have expected. Indeed, un⯑der Ademar Fabri, biſhop of Geneva in the fourteenth century, a certain num⯑ber of political regulations, both civil and criminal, together with ſeveral particular cuſtoms and liberties, were drawn up in form; and the biſhop took an oath to ob⯑ſerve them. Theſe ſtatutes, if they may be ſo called, were alſo confirmed by Ama⯑deus VIII, duke of Savoy. In all caſes of controverſy, the people appeal to this code; but it is not only compiled in a very inaccurate and confuſed manner, but the magiſtrates refuſe to be governed by it, becauſe it was publiſhed before the independence of the republic was con⯑firmed. With reſpect to the ſeveral laws which have ſince been enacted in the ge⯑neral [465] aſſembly; ſome few of them indeed are printed, and in the hands of the pub⯑lic, but the reſt remain in the archives of the ſenate: for, there being no par⯑ticular ſecretary belonging to the general aſſembly; all the laws which they paſs are taken down by the ſecretary to the ſe⯑nate; ſo that the latter are the ſole depo⯑ſitaries of thoſe edicts which ought to be laid open to the inſpection of the whole community. The people have repeatedly demanded a preciſe code of municipal and penal laws, ſo expreſs and determinate, that nothing may be left to the arbitrary deciſion of the magiſtrate; but the ſenate has always found means of evading this very reaſon⯑able and juſt requiſition.

Their code of civil law is the moſt per⯑fect part of this conſtitution: all matters concerning commerce are well regulated by it; and private property ſecurely guarded. It is unneceſſary to trouble you with a particular detail of the ſumptuary laws; they are much the ſame as thoſe in moſt of the other ſtates of Swiſſerland, where reſtrictions of that kind are en⯑forced. But there is one law, relating to bankrupts, too ſingularly ſevere not to be mentioned. If a member of either [466] council becomes a bankrupt, he is im⯑mediately degraded; and from that mo⯑ment is rendered incapable of holding any poſt under government, until he ſhall have diſcharged all the juſt demands of his creditors: even his children are ſub⯑jected to the ſame diſgrace; and no citi⯑zen can exerciſe any public employment whatſoever, while the debts of his father remain unpaid.

In this city, as in all the other princi⯑pal towns of Swiſſerland, a public gra⯑nary is eſtabliſhed. Magazines of this kind are uſeful in all ſtates, but are more particularly neceſſary in ſo populous a place as Geneva; which, if the neigh⯑bouring powers were to prohibit the ex⯑portation of corn into the territory of the republic, might be expoſed to all the hor⯑rors of a general famine. The benefit of this inſtitution has been frequently experienced in times of ſcarcity: and all authors who have publiſhed obſervations upon the government of Geneva, have agreed in mentioning it with the praiſes it deſerves. But they have overlooked one great defect in its regulation, and which is not imputable to the manage⯑ment of thoſe public granaries which are [467] eſtabliſhed in Berne and Zuric. The chamber of corn, as it is here called, is a committee from the great council of two hundred, empowered to ſupply the gra⯑nary with that commodity, at the expence of government. This corn is dried by means of machines well contrived for that purpoſe; retailed out to the inn⯑keepers and bakers; a conſiderable profit accrues to government; and there is al⯑ways, in caſe of neceſſity, a ſufficient quantity in reſerve to ſupport the inha⯑bitants during a year and an half. Thus far, all is right: but then the burden of this inſtitution falls upon the poor. For, as the directors buy the corn at the cheapeſt rate; retail that part of it which has been kept the longeſt; and vend it at an higher price than it is ſold in the neighbouring territories; the bakers muſt conſequently ſell their bread dearer, and not of ſo good a quality, as that which may be purchaſed on the frontiers of Sa⯑voy. But the importation of bread is ſtrictly prohibited: thoſe families, there⯑fore, who can afford it, lay in a proviſion of corn for their own uſe; while the poorer ſort ſuffer, by being obliged to pur⯑chaſe, at an advanced price, their daily [468] proviſion from the bakers. Perhaps, however, the government is not ſuffici⯑ently rich to put their granary upon the ſame footing with thoſe of Berne and Zuric, by ſacrificing the profit ariſing from the chamber of corn.

The town is ſtrongly fortified on the ſide of Savoy; and a garriſon of about nine hundred men conſtantly maintained: but theſe fortifications, and this garriſon, are only ſufficient to guard them from any ſudden attack; they could not de⯑fend them long againſt a regular ſiege. The great ſecurity of the republic con⯑ſiſts in its alliance with the Swiſs can⯑tons, by means of Zuric and Berne: and, as it is the intereſt both of the king of France and the king of Sardinia to keep well with the Swiſs, and to preſerve the independence of Geneva; it derives its greateſt ſecurity from what, in ſome caſes, would be its greateſt danger; name⯑ly, that its territory borders upon the do⯑minions of ſuch powerful neighbours.

This republic is the only commonwealth in Swiſſerland, that has no regular com⯑panies in any foreign ſervice; wiſely pro⯑hibiting the enliſting of mercenaries in every part of its territory.

LETTER XXXVIII.

THE ſmall territory of Bienne, containing ſcarcely ſix thouſand inhabitants, lies between the lake, and a chain of the Jura mountains: it is ſur⯑rounded by the cantons of Berne and So⯑leure, the biſhoprick of Baſil, and the principality of Neuchatel. The town is ſituated at the foot of the chain above⯑mentioned, and at a little diſtance from the lake; which is here about nine miles in length, and four in breadth: the bor⯑ders are pleaſing and pictureſque; and the town of Nidau forms a very beauti⯑ful object upon its eaſtern ſide. In the midſt of the lake is an iſland belonging to the canton of Berne, in which the perſecuted Rouſſeau reſided ſome months, after he had renounced all the rights of a citizen of Geneva, and until the go⯑vernment of Baſil compelled him to quit their territory. I cannot forbear ob⯑ſerving, upon this occaſion, that the fate of this very ingenious philoſopher ſeems to have been no leſs ſingular than his [470] doctrine: for, after having been driven out of two republics, he found an aſylum in the capital of an abſolute government, and, what is more extraordinary, of that very government too, which is ſuppoſed to have inſtigated the magiſtrates of Ge⯑neva to exert an act of arbitrary power againſt him, which in its conſequence produced a diminution of their own au⯑thority.

The biſhop of Baſil is the ſovereign of this little ſtate: his power formerly was conſiderable, but at preſent is ex⯑ceedingly limited. Indeed the conſtitu⯑tion of Bienne is of ſo very peculiar a na⯑ture, that I know not well by what name to diſtinguiſh it: it cannot properly be called either a limited monarchy, or an independent republic; it ſeems rather to be a certain mixed government, partak⯑ing ſomewhat of both.

The biſhop of Baſil, or the prince of Porentru, as he is called by the prote⯑ſtant cantons, receives, upon his promo⯑tion to the biſhoprick, the homage of the citizens and militia of this town, with all the apparent ceremonials of the moſt ab⯑ſolute ſubmiſſion; but at the ſame time, [471] he confirms, in the ſtrongeſt manner, all their privileges and franchiſes. He is repreſented by a mayor of his own ap⯑pointing, whoſe power and office con⯑ſiſt in convoking, and preſiding in, the little council, as the chief court of juſtice; in collecting the ſuffrages, and declar⯑ing the ſentence, but without giving any vote himſelf. And, although juſtice is carried on, and executed, in the name of the prince, yet neither himſelf, nor the mayor, has the prerogative of pardoning criminals, or of mitigating the ſentence. All cauſes, civil as well as criminal, are brought before this council in the firſt inſtance; and in the more important ones, an appeal lies to the ſovereign council: in both caſes, each party chooſes a member of the council to act as his advocate; which office the member is obliged to diſcharge without fee or re⯑compence. To this ſpecies of lawyers, Martial's ſevere imputation, that iras & verba locant, is by no means applicable: it muſt be owned, however, that they are of a kind extremely uncommon.

The ſovereign's revenue amounts only to about £.300 a year: but, mean as his civil [472] liſt is, it is ſtill more conſiderable than his authority; for he does not poſſeſs the leaſt ſhare of the adminiſtration. The regency of the town is jointly veſted in the great and little councils; the former, in which the legiſlative power reſides, conſiſts of forty members; and the latter, in which the executive is lodged, is com⯑poſed of twenty-four: the members of each muſt be married men. Both theſe councils elect their reſpective members; and ſo far the conſtitution is entirely ari⯑ſtocratical. The burgomaſter is chief of the regency; is choſen by the two councils; and preſides at their meetings, whenever they are aſſembled together in their joint capacity. He continues in his office du⯑ring life; in which, however, he muſt be confirmed annually by the two councils: as are alſo the ſeveral magiſtrates in their reſpective poſts. The ſalaries annexed to theſe offices are exceedingly moderate: and, indeed, the general expences of the government are ſo very ſmall, that, in proportion to them, its revenues may well be conſidered as abundantly ample.

It appears, therefore, that this proteſtant republic, notwithſtanding the ſovereignty [473] of its catholic biſhop, enjoys in the fulleſt extent the power of impoſing taxes, contracting alliances, declaring war and peace; and, in ſhort, of exerciſing every other act of abſolute and independent legiſlation. This ſingular conſtitution is guarantied by Berne, Fribourg, and So⯑leure, with whom the town is cloſely allied; in conſequence of which, it be⯑comes a member of the Helvetic confe⯑deracy. And, what is ſomewhat remark⯑able, this alliance between thoſe cantons and the town of Bienne, is of a ſuperior nature to that of the ſame cantons with the biſhop of Baſil: for, the town enjoys the right of ſending deputies to every general diet, ordinary and extraordinary; whereas the biſhop is not allowed the ſame privilege.

The language of the country, is a kind of provincial German; but, as the territory borders upon the principality of Neuchatel, the inhabitants ſpeak alſo a kind of corrupted French. They are a very active and induſtrious people: ſeve⯑ral manufactures are eſtabliſhed in the town, which, conſidering its ſize, carries on a large trade.

[474] I have often had occaſion to obſerve to you, that the common people of Swiſſer⯑land are far more intelligent than the ſame rank of men in any other country. Accordingly, I invited my landlord laſt night to ſup with me; and I found him by no means diſpoſed to be a ſilent gueſt. He gave me a long account of the cere⯑mony that was lately performed here, when the citizens did homage to their new biſhop. I was pleaſed to hear him expatiate, with all the enthuſiaſm of na⯑tional pride, upon the beauty and gran⯑deur of the ſcene; the magnificence of the proceſſion; the number of ſpectators, as well ſtrangers as natives, who were aſſembled; together with the entertain⯑ments and the balls that were given upon that occaſion. By the lofty terms in which he ſpoke of this proceſſion, you would have thought, at leaſt, that he had been deſcribing the coronation of the emperor of Germany, or the king of France: and, in truth, to an inhabitant of Bienne, whoſe government is admini⯑ſtered without the leaſt degree of exter⯑nal pomp, and where luxury has not yet made any progreſs; the ceremony [475] muſt neceſſarily have appeared a very ſtrik⯑ing ſpectacle. My hoſt's narrative recalled to my remembrance the accounts of thoſe ancient feudal ſovereignties, when the great vaſſals of the crown did homage to their liege lord; and, while in terms they promiſed him unlimited obedience, main⯑tained, in fact, every eſſential of indepen⯑dence.

I have juſt been amuſing myſelf in ſome pleaſant walks, that lie by the ſide of the lake, which is here prettily ſkirted with country houſes. In my way I paſ⯑ſed over a plain between the town and the lake, which the ſovereign council, by a kind of agrarian law, that does ho⯑nour to the legiſlature, allotted long ago, in diſtinct portions, to each burgher, for his own particular uſe: it is entirely laid out in little neat kitchen-gardens. The general government, indeed, of this mi⯑niature ſtate, is well adminiſtred. It has lately adopted the liberal policy of con⯑ferring the burgherſhip at an eaſy rate: a wiſe regulation, which cannot fail of encreaſing the population of the town, and extending its commerce.

I know your ſentiments much too well, my dear ſir, to apologize for calling your [476] attention in the preſent inſtance, as in ſome others, to theſe diminutive common⯑wealths. The various modifications of government into which civil ſociety is di⯑vided, is a ſpeculation that will always afford matter both of entertainment and reflection, to a philoſophic mind: and I am perſuaded, that you conſider the meaneſt ſpot of this globe; conſecrated by liberty, to be an object worthy, not only of your curioſity, but your veneration.

LETTER XXXIX.

THE road from Bienne to Soleure, lies through a rich and cultivated valley, encloſed within the Jura moun⯑tains. The town is pleaſantly ſituated upon the Aar, which here expands its banks, and opens into a broad and fine river, flowing at the foot of ſome high and ſteep hills: the circumjacent country is exceedingly pleaſing and diverſified.

I will not exert the privilege of a tra⯑veller, and tell you, what ſome extrava⯑gant [477] antiquarians do not ſcruple to aſſert, that Soleure was built by the patriarch Abraham; but you will have no diffi⯑culty, perhaps, in believing what others maintain, that it was one of the twelve towns which were deſtroyed upon the emigration of the original inhabitants into Gaul. But at what time, and upon what occaſion, ſoever its deſtruction hap⯑pened; it appears probable, from a great number of inſcriptions, medals, and other antiquities, that have been found in the neighbourhood, that it was re⯑peopled by a Roman colony; and cer⯑tainly was a Roman fortification, as its antient appellation, Caſtrum Salodurenſe, neceſſarily implies.

Little more of its hiſtory is known, dur⯑ing that period of ignorance and barba⯑riſm which ſucceeded the downfall of the Roman empire, than that it was ſacked and deſtroyed by thoſe northern nations, who over-ran the greateſt parts of Eu⯑rope. From the time of its re-eſtabliſh⯑ment, until its admiſſion into the Helvetic confederacy in 1481, its ſtate was ſimilar to that of many other imperial towns, which acquired a gradual acceſſion of [478] territory, and after various ſtruggles fi⯑nally ſecured to themſelves an abſolute independence.

The canton of Soleure is nearly twelve leagues in length, and ſeven in its great⯑eſt breadth; ſtretching partly through the plain, and partly along the ridges of the Jura. Its population may amount to be⯑tween forty and fifty thouſand ſouls; of which the capital contains about five thouſand: all the inhabitants of the canton are catholics.

The government is ariſtocratical, upon much the ſame plan as that of Lucerne, and of Fribourg: the patrician families are in poſſeſſion of all the public employ⯑ments. The ſovereign council conſiſts of an hundred and twenty members, in which the ſenate or council of thirty-five is compriſed: the latter conſiſts of two ad⯑voyers, eleven alt-raths, or ſenior coun⯑ſellors, and twenty-two jung-raths, or junior counſellors. Upon the death of one of the alt-raths, the ſenior of the jung-raths ſucceeds to his place; and the vacancy occaſioned by that removal, is filled up by the eleven alt-raths out of the great council. It is from the alt-raths, [479] that the four principal magiſtrates are choſen; namely, the two advoyers, the banneret, and the treaſurer: and upon the death of one of the advoyers, the banneret ſucceeds to his place of courſe, after having gone through the formality of being nominated by the general aſſem⯑bly of the burghers. When a vacancy happens in the great council, it is ſup⯑plied by the eleven alt-raths, who al⯑ways chooſe the new member from the ſame tribe, or company of the citizens to which the laſt member belonged. The whole body of burghers aſſemble every year, and confirm the advoyers and the banneret in their reſpective offices: at the ſame time the twenty-two jung-raths confirm the eleven alt-raths, who in their turn confirm in the ſame manner the former. But all theſe ſeveral confirma⯑tions are matters of mere formality. No perſon can be elected into the great coun⯑cil before he has attained the age of twenty, nor into the ſenate ſooner than twenty-four.

Excepting the treaſurer, who is elected by the ſovereign council; and the advoy⯑ers and banneret, who are choſen by the [480] burghers; all the other public employ⯑ments are at the diſpoſal of the ſenate: which body has juriſdiction likewiſe in all civil and criminal cauſes, without appeal. The revenues of this government, and the ſtipends of the numerous places held under it, are, (the circumſtances of theſe ſtates conſidered) by no means ſmall: ſo that the chief families derive from the ſeveral poſts they poſſeſs, very profit⯑able emoluments.

The ſoil of this canton is exceedingly fertile, and thoſe diſtricts which lie within the Jura, abound in excellent paſ⯑tures: but there is a great want of hands for all the purpoſes of agriculture; and the defect ſenſibly encreaſes. Neverthe⯑leſs, the ground is ſo particularly favour⯑able to corn, that a third part of the yearly produce may be exported, without the leaſt detriment to the public. The trade both of the town and of the canton is of little value, although they are very commodiouſly ſituated for carrying on an extenſive commerce.

The French embaſſador to the Helvetic body reſides in this town, and diſtributes from hence thoſe annual penſions or [481] ſubſidies, which the king his maſter has ſtipulated by treaty to pay the catholic cantons: they amount to about 30,000 pounds a year. Louis XI. was the firſt French monarch who employed Swiſs troops in his ſervice, and granted ſubſi⯑dies to the ſtates. Theſe have ſince been conſiderably augmented by his ſucceſſors: and the perpetual alliance which Fran⯑cis I. concluded with the Swiſs cantons, ſoon after the battle of Marignano, is conſidered as the baſis of every ſubſequent treaty that has been made between the two contracting powers. Several of the ſucceſſors of that king derived conſider⯑able advantages from the Swiſs infantry in their ſervice: they aided Henry IV. in eſtabliſhing himſelf upon the throne of his anceſtors; and aſſiſted both Louis XIII. and his ſon, in the ſeveral wars in which they were engaged. No troops indeed have ever been more juſtly diſtin⯑guiſhed for their fidelity, their valour, and the excellence of their diſcipline.

The laſt general alliance between France and the whole Helvetic union, was concluded by Louis the XIVth in 1663, and to remain in force during [482] the joint lives of that monarch, and his ſon the dauphin, and for eight years after the death of either of them. Towards the end of his reign, when that monarch, on account of his ſon's death, propoſed to renew the alliance in his and his ſuc⯑ceſſor's name; the proteſtant cantons re⯑fuſed their conſent: accordingly it was concluded only with the catholic cantons, and the republic of the Vallais.

This alliance differed from the former treaties in ſome very eſſential articles, particularly, as it ſtipulated—that, in caſe the kingdom of France ſhould be invaded, the Swiſs republics in queſtion ſhould permit an additional levy to be raiſed at his majeſty's expence, not exceeding ſix⯑teen thouſand men; that in caſe the Hel⯑vetic body, or any particular canton, ſhould be attacked by a foreign power, the king engaged to aſſiſt them with as many forces as ſhould be thought neceſ⯑ſary; and finally, that if any diſſenſions ſhould ariſe between the contracting can⯑tons, his majeſty ſhould, at the requeſt of the aggrieved party, try all gentle me⯑thods of bringing about a reconciliation; but if theſe ſhould fail, the king agreed, [483] both in his own name, and in that of his ſucceſſor, to compel the aggreſſor to abide by the treaties contracted between the cantons and their allies. This laſt article ſeemed, in ſome meaſure, to authorize the interference of the king of France with the politics of Swiſſerland; and, in that view, appeared dangerous to many of the Swiſs, and inconſiſtent with that abſolute independence, which they had hitherto prized above all other advantages.

The court of France is at preſent en⯑deavouring to perſuade the proteſtant cantons to accede to the alliance, in order that a general treaty may be renewed: and it is expected that a diet will ſoon be holden at Soleure ^* for that purpoſe.

LETTER XL.

THE road from Soleure to this town, lies through the midſt of the Jura mountains, along the vale of Balſtal, remarkable for its richneſs and fertility: and though the country in ge⯑neral is exceedingly romantic and rocky, yet in many places it is highly cultivated.

I turned a little out of the direct way to this place, in order to view the ruins of Auguſta Rauricorum, formerly a large town under the dominion of the Romans; now a ſmall village in the canton of Baſil, [485] cloſe to the Rhine. Its ancient remains are very inconſiderable, conſiſting of a few pillars of marble ſtill ſtanding, and ſome ſcattered fragments of others, toge⯑ther with a kind of ſemicircular range of walls upon a riſing ground, the greateſt part of which has tumbled down, and is almoſt entirely overgrown with bruſh⯑wood. From the preſent appearance of the laſt-mentioned ruins, I ſhould hardly have gueſſed that they once compoſed part of a theatre, capable of containing above twelve thouſand ſpectators. But the celebrated Schaefflin has given, in his Alſatia Illuſtrata, a particular deſcription of this theatre, and its dimenſions; as alſo of the temple, to which the marble columns I mentioned, formerly belonged. Beſides theſe, there are likewiſe the re⯑mains of ſome ſmall aqueducts, which conveyed water to the town from the diſ⯑tance of above twelve miles: but none of theſe relics of antiquity have any thing ſo very remarkable in them, as to merit the trouble of a particular viſit.

The peaſants, in turning up the ground where theſe ruins are ſituated, frequently find medals of the Roman emperors, from [486] Auguſtus to Conſtantine; and are become, by repeated experience, able to diſtinguiſh, with ſome degree of preciſion, thoſe that are rare from the more common ones. I purchaſed of a labourer two medals which he had juſt found; a Trajan and an Al⯑binus: and though the former was by far the moſt perfect, yet he made me pay three times as much for the latter, becauſe he had never ſeen it, he ſaid, before.

I arrived here the day before yeſterday, and, as I had good reaſon to be aſſured, about twelve at noon; but was much ſurprized to find, that all the clocks in the town agreed to make me ſuppoſe I was miſtaken, and actually ſtruck one: the fact is, that every one of them go an hour faſter than thoſe of the reſt of Europe. Different reaſons have been aſſigned for this ſingularity: ſome aſſert, that it was firſt practiſed during the council of Baſil, in order to aſſemble the cardinals and biſhops the earlier, who, being a very lazy and indo⯑lent ſet of mortals, always came too late. Others tell you, that a conſpiracy being formed to enter the town at midnight, and to aſſaſſinate the magiſtrates; one of the [487] burgomaſters, who had notice of the de⯑ſign, put the town clock an hour for⯑wards; by which means the conſpirators, imagining they had miſſed the appointed time, retired; and that the clocks are ſtill kept forwards, as a perpetual memorial of this happy deliverance. But there is a third reaſon given for this ſtrange cuſ⯑tom, which ſeems by far the moſt proba⯑ble. It is well known that the choirs of cathedrals and churches are conſtructed towards the eaſt: that of Baſil declines ſomewhat from this direction; and the ſun-dial, which is placed upon the out⯑ſide of the choir, and by which the town clock is always regulated, partakes of this declination; a circumſtance which, ac⯑cording to the celebrated Bernouli, occa⯑ſions a variation from the true time of above five and forty minutes.

But whatever may have been the ori⯑ginal of this whimſical cuſtom; the in⯑habitants of Baſil are ſo ſtrongly attach⯑ed to it, that as often as it has been propoſed in the ſovereign council to have their clocks properly regulated, the motion has conſtantly been rejected. [488] In reality, the people would think their liberties invaded, if their clocks were to go like the reſt of the world's. A few years ago it was ſecretly agreed upon by ſome of the leading men of the town, to have the ſun-dial turned half a minute a day, until the ſhadow ſhould imperceptibly point to the true hour. This expedient was accordingly put in practice, and the town clock had already loſt near three quarters of an hour, when an accident diſcovered the plot; and the magiſtrates were compelled to place the ſun-dial in the ſame poſition it ſtood before, and to have the town clock regulated by it as uſual. Indeed, long-eſtabliſhed cuſtoms, however indifferent or ridiculous, are apt to lay ſo ſtrong a hold upon vulgar minds, as to become ſometimes dangerous, and always difficult, to be altered; eſpecially among a people, like thoſe of this coun⯑try, who are averſe to any change, even in the minuteſt articles. I need not re⯑mind you, how long it was before we could be perſuaded, in England, to reckon our years according to the general mode of computation received by the reſt of Eu⯑rope.

[489] Baſil is beautifully ſituated upon the banks of the Rhine, near the point where that river (which here becomes very broad, deep, and rapid) after flowing for ſome way from eaſt to weſt, turns ſud⯑denly to the north. It conſiſts of two towns joined together by an handſome bridge; the largeſt of which towns lies on the ſide of Swiſſerland, and the ſmalleſt on the German ſide of the ri⯑ver. It ſtands very advantageouſly for commerce; and it is an advantage which the inhabitants have by no means neglected: for, they have eſtabliſhed a great variety of manufactures of all ſorts; and a very extenſive and lucrative trade is carried on by the principal merchants of the place.

The cathedral is an elegant gothic building, but ſtrangely disfigured by a daubing of roſe-coloured paint ſpread over the whole edifice. In this cathedral are depoſited, under a marble tomb, the ve⯑nerable remains of the great Eraſmus. That diſtinguiſhed writer joined to ſupe⯑rior learning, and a peculiar elegance of ſtyle, the keeneſt wit, which he pointed, not only againſt the vices and ignorance of [490] the monks, but the general corruptions and diſorders of the church of Rome. He was indeed the forerunner of Luther, in his firſt attacks upon the catholics, re⯑ſpecting the ſale of indulgences: but af⯑terwards, when the controverſy appeared to be taking a more ſerious turn, and an open breach with the church of Rome ſeemed inevitable; he condemned the pro⯑ceedings of that bold reformer. He con⯑ſidered them, indeed, as altogether un⯑warrantable; and, although he had him⯑ſelf cenſured and expoſed the corruptions that infected the catholic religion, yet he zealouſly inculcated ſubmiſſive obedience to the decrees of what he called the ‘"univerſal church."’ Agreeably to theſe ſentiments, he adviſed the proteſtants to endeavour at obtaining, by mild and pa⯑tient meaſures, what they might indiſ⯑creetly loſe by a warmer and more violent oppoſition.

Such temperate counſels were ill ſuited to the daring and impetuous ſpirit of Luther. Accordingly, while Eraſmus was acting the part of a mediator, and endeavouring to moderate and allay the flame on each ſide, he drew upon himſelf the diſpleaſure of both [491] parties: by the one, he was reproached for having gone too far; and by the other for not having gone much farther. In alluſion to this trimming conduct, one of his adverſaries, not unaptly, applied to him that line in Virgil,

The impartial truth ſeems to be, that he was by no means diſpoſed to become a martyr in the cauſe: and the natural timidity of his temper, together with a too great deference to perſons of ſuperior rank and power; and perhaps alſo the fear of loſing his penſions; probably entered into the prevailing mo⯑tives that induced him to take a decided part againſt the reformers, and condemn their ſeparation from the church of Rome as an apoſtacy.

But it would be uncandid to impute his conduct wholly to ſelfiſh conſidera⯑tions; ſomething may fairly be aſcribed to the powerful impreſſions of early pre⯑judices; and ſomething to that rooted love of peace and ſtudious tranquillity which ſeems to have been the governing principle of moſt of his actions. But, whatever im⯑perfections may be diſcovered in ſome par⯑ticular parts of his character, his memory [492] muſt ever be revered by every friend of ge⯑nius, learning, and moderation. Livelineſs of imagination, depth and variety of erudi⯑tion, together with great ſagacity of judg⯑ment, were in him eminently united. He infuſed a ſpirit of elegance even into theo⯑logical controverſies; and contributed to diſencumber literature of that ſcholaſtic jargon with which it was diſgraced: in a word, he wanted nothing but a little more courage, to have been confeſſedly one of the firſt characters of the age in which he flouriſhed. Eraſmus reflected much honour upon this town, by chooſing it as the favourite place of his reſidence, and publiſhing from hence the greateſt part of his valuable works. In the pub⯑lic library are preſerved, with great ve⯑neration, ſeveral of his letters, and his laſt teſtament, written with his own hand; as alſo his hanger and his ſeal.

The library contains ſome very valu⯑able manuſcripts; the moſt curious of which are thoſe relating to the council of Baſil, together with ſeveral volumes of letters written to and from the firſt reformers, and from ſeveral men of let⯑ters of the fifteenth, ſixteenth, and ſe⯑venteenth [493] centuries. The collection of books, though not very conſiderable, is chiefly remarkable for many rare and valuable editions; particularly of thoſe which were printed in the fifteenth cen⯑tury.

In a ſuite of rooms belonging to this library, is a cabinet of natural curioſi⯑ties; ſome antient medals and gems; a few antiquities found at Augſt; a large collection of prints; and ſome fine draw⯑ings and paintings, conſiſting chiefly of originals by Holbein, who was a native of this town. Theſe pictures are, moſt of them, in the higheſt preſervation; and what renders them the more valuable is, that the connoiſſeur can here trace all the different manners of Holbein, and compare the productions of his youth with thoſe of his more mature age. The moſt valuable of theſe pieces is, the paſ⯑ſion of our Saviour, in eight compart⯑ments: a performance in which this ad⯑mirable artiſt has carried to the higheſt perfection that ſingular brilliancy of co⯑louring ſo peculiar to all his compoſi⯑tions. I was much ſtruck with a profile of his friend and patron Eraſmus, writ⯑ing [494] his commentary upon St. Matthew: there is a ſpirit and animation in the countenance, wonderfully expreſſive of the great author's ſagacious and penetrating talents.

The dance of death, in the church-yard of the predicants of the ſuburbs of St. John, is always ſhewn to ſtrangers as being of Holbein's pencil. It is painted in oil-colours upon a wall, and guarded by an iron railing: but, as it has ſeveral times been retouched, no traces are diſ⯑coverable of that great maſter's hand. In fact, Mr. Horace Walpole, and other unqueſtionable judges, have ſhewn, be⯑yond a doubt, that it was painted not only before Holbein was born, and as a memorial of the plague which raged at Baſil during the ſitting of the celebrat⯑ed council, appointed by Pope Euge⯑nius IV. in 1431; but that he was not even employed in retouching it. It is probable, however, that, from this an⯑tient performance, he took the firſt hint towards compoſing his famous drawings of the dance of death. In treating this ſubject, he has diſcovered ſuch wonder⯑ful richneſs of imagination, and ſhewn [495] ſo much judgment in the diſpoſition of the figures, and ſo much ſpirit in the execution of them, that Rubens ſtudied them with particular attention, and took drawings from them himſelf^*.

There are prints taken of ſome of theſe drawings by Hollar, which are very ſcarce. Mr. de Mechel, a celebrated artiſt of this place, is now employed in engraving them after the original deſigns^†; a work [496] which cannot fail of being highly accept⯑able to the admirers of the fine arts. He has nearly finiſhed alſo a ſet of prints from the fine paintings of the Duſſeldorf gallery, and likewiſe the engravings of the famous Hedlinger's medals. This able engraver has himſelf a ſmall but well⯑choſen collection of paintings: and his magazine of prints (in which article he carries on a very conſiderable trade) is perhaps the largeſt and moſt complete in Europe. I am acquainted with no per⯑ſon to whom the curious traveller can addreſs himſelf with greater advantage than to Mr. de Mechel, nor from whom he can receive more uſeful information. To a particular knowledge of the phy⯑ſical beauties of Swiſſerland, he joins a thorough acquaintance with the different governments, cuſtoms, and manners of the ſeveral cantons. As he is intimately connected with the principal men of learn⯑ing in this country, his letters of recom⯑mendation are the moſt deſirable, and the [497] moſt beneficial, that can be procured: and he has as much ſatisfaction in confer⯑ring, as can be received by accepting, his good offices. He is indeed poſſeſſed of a great fund of good-humour, an amiable frankneſs of diſpoſition, and a certain originality of manner, which, together with his other valuable qualities, recom⯑mend him as a no leſs pleaſing than uſe⯑ful acquaintance.

LETTER XLI.

THE town of Baſil was formerly under the dominion of its biſhops, but their power was gradually diminiſh⯑ed, till at length, and even before the reformation, it was almoſt reduced to no⯑thing. In 1501, the canton joined the Helvetic confederacy, and had the ninth rank aſſigned to it. From that period the biſhops quitted the town; eſtabliſhed their reſidence at Porentru; and ſoon intire⯑ly loſt what little authority and inconſi⯑derable prerogatives remained to them. Upon the introduction of the reforma⯑tion, [498] the conſtitution was in ſome mea⯑ſure changed; the power of the ariſto⯑cracy was much limited, and the govern⯑ment took a more republican form than before.

It would ſeem in theory ſcarce poſſible to divide the ariſtocratical and democra⯑tical commonwealths into ſo many diffe⯑rent ſpecies as are to be found in Swiſ⯑ſerland: for, in this country, every re⯑public has its peculiar modification, which diſtinguiſhes it from all others of the ſame kind; and there is none more ſingular than that of Baſil. To view the general out⯑lines only of the conſtitution, it has the appearance of being an abſolute ariſto⯑cracy^*; but, upon conſidering it in de⯑tail, it will be found to incline towards a democracy. The ſupreme legiſlative [499] power reſides in the great and little coun⯑cils, conſiſting of about three hundred members: and the authority of theſe two councils, combined, is without con⯑troul. They enact laws, make war and peace, contract alliances, and impoſe taxes: they elect the ſeveral magiſtrates, appoint their own members, nominate to all em⯑ployments, and confer the right of bur⯑gherſhip. The general adminiſtration of government is committed by the ſove⯑reign council to the ſenate, or little coun⯑cil; that is, to a part of its own body. This ſenate is compoſed of ſixty mem⯑bers, together with the four chiefs of the republic, two burgomaſters, and two tri⯑bunes; theſe are divided into two bodies, which act by rotation. The acting divi⯑ſion continues in office one year: they decide finally in all criminal cauſes; ſuper⯑intend the police; and exerciſe ſeveral other powers ſubordinate to the ſovereign council. The collective body of citizens aſ⯑ſembles only once a year, when the magi⯑ſtrates publicly take an oath to maintain the laws, and preſerve the liberties and immunities of the people, inviolate. The [500] reciprocal oath of allegiance to the magi⯑ſtrates, is adminiſtred to the citizens in their reſpective tribes.

But, notwithſtanding the great and boundleſs prerogatives of the ſovereign council; yet the meaneſt citizen is legally capable of being admitted a member; and, by the ſingular method of election, may poſſibly be choſen. For, the members of the two councils are drawn from all the ſeveral ranks of citizens, one claſs only excepted, viz. the members of the univerſity. Theſe citizens are divided into eighteen tribes; fifteen of which belong to the larger town, and three to the ſmaller: each of the firſt⯑mentioned fifteen tribes, returns four members to the ſenate; and each of the whole eighteen, ſends twelve to the great council. Formerly theſe elections were determined by a plurality of voices: but, as by this means the richeſt candidate was always certain of being choſen; a ternaire, as it is called, was eſtabliſhed; that is, three candidates were put in no⯑mination, and it was decided by lot which of the three ſhould ſucceed to the vacant poſt.

Although this mode of election put a [501] ſtop, in ſome meaſure, to corruption; yet it was not ſufficient to counteract entire⯑ly the influence of the wealthy: and, as the tradeſmen, of whom the greateſt part of the ſovereign council is compoſed, could ſeldom or never ſucceed to the moſt honourable or lucrative employ⯑ments; they procured an act to be paſſ⯑ed, by which the ternaire was changed into a ſenaire: that is to ſay, ſix candi⯑dates, inſtead of three, were put in no⯑mination, and drew lots for the charge. The names of theſe ſix are put into one bag; and ſix tickets, upon one of which the employment in queſtion is written, are put into another. Two perſons are appointed, one to each bag, to be the drawers of this official lottery; and the candidate againſt whoſe name the ticket marked with the employment, is drawn, obtains the poſt.

It would be too tedious, and indeed too unintereſting, a detail, to enter into a mi⯑nute account of the forms and circum⯑ſtances requiſite to be obſerved in ſelect⯑ing the ſeveral candidates to be put in no⯑mination. To give you, however, ſome general idea of this matter:—Upon a va⯑cancy [502] in the great council, for inſtance, the ſix perſons who are named for can⯑didates, muſt be taken from the citizens of that tribe, to which the perſon who occaſioned the vacancy belonged; and muſt be nominated by ſuch of the mem⯑bers of the ſovereign council, who are of the ſame tribe. The candidates for the ſenate are, in ſome inſtances, no⯑minated by the ſovereign council at large, and in others, by thoſe members only of the ſovereign council, who belong to the tribe in which the vacancy happens: but in both inſtances, the candidates put in nomination muſt be members of the great council. There is but one caſe, in which the ſenaire is not practiſed: for, upon the death of a burgomaſter, one of the tribunes ſucceeds of courſe to his of⯑fice.

It ſhould ſeem, that a variety of evils muſt neceſſarily flow from this abſurd method of filling up vacant poſts in the govern⯑ment; as they are left intirely to the ca⯑pricious diſpoſal of fortune. In fact, it has not unfrequently happened, that a candidate, whoſe knowledge and abilities rendered him capable of being ſervice⯑able [503] to the ſtate, has never had the good luck to obtain the ſucceſsful tick⯑et; while fortune has beſtowed it upon another by no means qualified to fulfil the duties of the employment. However, notwithſtanding the ill ef⯑fects that occaſionally muſt reſult from this caſual method of election; the ma⯑nagement of public affairs is in gene⯑ral tolerably well conducted; and there are few, if any, inſtances of civil juſtice being unwiſely adminiſtred, or of inno⯑cence being ſacrificed to ſuperior wealth or power.

But it is not the counſellors of ſtate and the ſeveral magiſtrates, that are alone cho⯑ſen by lot; even the profeſſors in the uni⯑verſity are elected in the ſame manner. The three candidates, however (for in this inſtance the ternaire is ſtill in uſe) muſt be nominated from among thoſe who have taken their doctor's degrees. Hence nothing is more common than to ſolicit the being choſen one of the candi⯑dates for the profeſſorſhip of a ſcience, which the party has never made the pe⯑culiar object of his ſtudies; if the chair of that particular branch of literature in [504] which he excels is already occupied: for, under theſe circumſtances, the reſpective unqualified profeſſors change places with each other. Thus (to mention an inſtance from a family well known to all who are converſant in mathematical learning) John Bernouli, the famous mathematical pro⯑feſſor in this univerſity, who died in 1748, left two ſons, James, and John, (ſtill liv⯑ing) who are juſtly celebrated for their ſkill in that ſcience, in which both their father and grandfather ſo eminently ex⯑celled. John, after having been ſeveral times an unſucceſsful candidate for dif⯑ferent profeſſorſhips, was at length choſen by lot profeſſor of rhetoric; but upon his father's death, he changed with Mr. Rumſpeck, to whom fortune, with her uſual judgment, had thought proper to aſſign the chair of mathematics. A ſi⯑milar circumſtance happened to his bro⯑ther Daniel: chance conferred upon him the profeſſorſhip of botany and anatomy, which he ſome years afterwards had an opportunity of happily exchanging for that of natural philoſophy.

The ſumptuary laws are very ſtrict at Baſil: beſides thoſe which are common [505] to ſome other of the Swiſs republics; the jealouſy of the democratical party has procured additional ones. The uſe of coaches in the town is not prohibited here as at Zuric; but, what is more ſin⯑gular, no citizen or inhabitant who keeps his carriage, is allowed to have a ſervant behind it. Their laws of this kind may perhaps be carried, in ſome in⯑ſtances, to a ſcrupulous and even ridicu⯑lous minuteneſs; upon the whole, how⯑ever, they are excellent regulations, and not only uſeful but neceſſary in a ſmall republic. They have certainly operated with great advantage in this town: for, although it contains ſeveral families who are conſiderably rich; yet a happy ſim⯑plicity of manners is ſtill ſo predominant, that you would ſmile if I were to parti⯑culariſe thoſe articles which paſs here un⯑der the opprobrious denomination of lux⯑ury. And, notwithſtanding the neighbour⯑hood of France, the French modes and faſhions, which are ſo univerſally ſpread among the principal inhabitants of Fri⯑bourg and Soleure, are totally unknown at Baſil.

The lower rank of citizens are in ge⯑neral [506] ſo ſtrongly prejudiced in favour of their own country, that they ſeem to be well convinced true felicity is only to be found at Baſil: and indeed that claſs of people are in no part of the world more happy. Every perſon boaſts that he is free, and in reality is ſo: and, as the citizens not only poſſeſs very conſiderable privileges and immunities, but each individual may alſo indulge the hope of being one day choſen into the ſovereign council; he en⯑joys a certain degree of reſpect and con⯑ſideration extremely flattering to his ſelf⯑importance. In fact, there are ſeveral a⯑mong the magiſtrates who exerciſe the meaner trades; one of the preſent members of the little council, is a baker. He is indeed a man of diſtinguiſhed knowledge and merit; and has had a chance even of being chief of the republic: for, he has been twice nominated one of the ſix candi⯑dates for the tribuneſhip of the people.

The conduct of magiſtrates, is no where more freely, nor more ſeverely, criticiſed than at Baſil. The people may ſometimes, no doubt, extend this privi⯑lege beyond its proper limits; but they can never be totally reſtrained from ex⯑erciſing [507] it, without ſtriking at the vitals of their liberty: it is eſſential to its ex⯑iſtence, and no free government can long ſurvive its extinction.

Baſil is by far the largeſt, and ſeems formerly to have been one of the moſt populous, towns of Swiſſerland: its ex⯑tent is capable of containing with eaſe, above an hundred thouſand inhabitants; whereas it can ſcarcely number eleven thouſand. Many particular cauſes may have concurred to occaſion this remark⯑able decreaſe of people; but I will men⯑tion only one or two of the general rea⯑ſons to which it may be aſſigned.

It is proved, from undoubted calcula⯑tions, that in all great cities the number of burials exceeds that of births; conſe⯑quently, unleſs this unequal proportion of the latter to the former be compen⯑ſated by a conſtant acceſſion of new in⯑habitants, every great town in proceſs of time muſt neceſſarily become depopulated. Now the citizens of Baſil are ſo jealous of the right of burgherſhip, and pride themſelves ſo much upon the privileges which accompany it, that they ſeldom deign to confer it upon foreigners: a [508] ſupply therefore to ballance that gradual waſte of people I have mentioned, can never be had by an influx of ſtrangers, where they are not permitted to carry on any commerce, or to follow any trade. A few years ago, indeed, ſome of the ma⯑giſtrates, ſenſible of the impolicy of this unlimited prohibition, procured a law, by which the freedom of the town and the right of burgherſhip was allowed to be conferred upon ſtrangers; but it was clogged at the ſame time with ſo many reſtrictions, as by no means to anſwer the purpoſe for which it was intended. Every principle, indeed, of private intereſt and ambition, concurred to prevent its efficacy: and no wonder; for, bodies of men are ſeldom actuated by ſo generous a ſpirit as to ſacrifice their perſonal and immediate advantages, to the future wel⯑fare and proſperity of their country.

LETTER XLII.

CURIOSITY led me, during my continuance at Baſil, to viſit the hoſ⯑pital and burying-ground of St. James, not [509] far from the town, and near the ſmall river Birſch, celebrated for a moſt remarkable and deſperate combat, which was fought in 1444, between the Swiſs and the dau⯑phin of France, afterwards Louis XI: and never was Swiſs valour and intrepidity ſo ſignally diſplayed, as by a few battalions of their troops on that memorable day.

This famous battle was in conſe⯑quence of ſome diſputes, which aroſe be⯑tween the canton of Zuric and thoſe of Schweitz and Glaris. The former refuſ⯑ing to abide by the mediation of the five neutral cantons, who had decided in fa⯑vour of the two latter; a civil war en⯑ſued: upon which occaſion, Zuric en⯑tered into an alliance with the emperor Frederic III. The ſeven laſt-mentioned cantons, in order to force the canton of Zuric to renounce this alliance with the houſe of Auſtria, which they juſtly con⯑ſidered as an infringement of their league; laid ſiege to that town. Frederic, unable to ſend a ſufficient body of troops to its relief, applied for additional ſuccours to Charles VII, king of France; who, as well with a view of diſſolving the coun⯑cil of Baſil, as for the particular purpoſe [510] required, ordered a conſiderable army of mercenary troops to march, under the command of his ſon Louis. Accord⯑ingly the dauphin entered with his forces into Alſace; and, after laying waſte and harraſſing the adjacent provinces, ap⯑peared before Baſil. Upon this occa⯑ſion, a detachment of fifteen hundred Swiſs from the army of the confederates (at that time employed in beſieging Farnſ⯑berg) were ordered to throw themſelves into the town of Baſil, which was but thinly garriſoned.

This handful of men advanced with⯑out interruption to the plain of Brattelen; where they charged, with ſuch determin⯑ed and well-conducted valour, eight thou⯑ſand of the enemy's cavalry, that the lat⯑ter were driven back as far as Mutleez; at which place the repulſed were joined by another corps: but, notwithſtanding this reinforcement, the Swiſs attacking them again with the ſame intrepidity as before, forced them to repaſs the river Birſch; where the main body of the army was chiefly drawn up. Such was the firmneſs and ſolidity of the Swiſs in theſe ſeveral rencounters, that, to uſe [511] the expreſſion of an old French chronicle, when the cavalry charged ‘"they could make no more impreſſion, than if they had attacked a rock, or an impenetrable wall."’ The Swiſs, encouraged by this wonderful ſucceſs, and exaſperated with the moſt ſpirited indignation againſt the invaders of their country; diſregarding the remonſtrances of their officers, raſhly attempted to force their paſſage over a bridge, which was guarded by a large body of the enemy: but, this effort of incon⯑ſiderate valour proving ineffectual, every man of theſe gallant ſoldiers, throwing himſelf into the river, where it was ford⯑able, gained the oppoſite ſhore, in the face of a battery of cannon that was playing againſt them.

But what could the deſperate courage of ſo ſmall a number of troops avail, againſt an army of 30,000 men advantageouſly poſted in an open plain? They had no alternative but either to throw down their arms, or gloriouſly expire with them in their hands. They bravely choſe the lat⯑ter: accordingly five hundred of them took poſſeſſion of a ſmall iſland near the bridge, where, after reſolutely defending [512] themſelves to the laſt extremity, they were all of them cut to pieces. A like num⯑ber forced their way through the ranks of the enemy, and were making towards Baſil; when they were oppoſed by a large body of horſe, who were poſted there to prevent the inhabitants of the town from ſallying out, and coming to the relief of their countrymen. Being now ſurround⯑ed on all ſides, they threw themſelves into the hoſpital of St. James; and, lining the walls of the burying-ground, reſiſted for ſome time the united aſſaults of the whole French army. At length the hoſpital be⯑ing ſet on fire, and the cannon having battered down the walls of the burying⯑ground, they fought no longer in hopes of victory; but ſtill reſolving that it ſhould coſt their enemies as dear as poſſible, they continued to defend their lives to the laſt gaſp.

Aeneas Sylvius, (afterwards pope Pi⯑us II.) relates, among other actions of ſin⯑gular valour, exerted by this heroic troop, a particular inſtance which I cannot for⯑bear mentioning. Four of the French attacked a ſingle Swiſs, and having killed and ſtripped him, proceeded to inſult the [513] dead body; being obſerved by a com⯑panion of the ſlain, he ſeized a battle-ax, ruſhed upon the four; killed two of them, and put the others to flight; then fling⯑ing the dead body of his friend upon his ſhoulders, carried it to a place of ſecu⯑rity; and returning to the attack, was killed.

Of the whole number but ſixteen eſ⯑caped from the field of battle: and theſe, agreeably to the old Spartan diſcipline, were branded with infamy, for not hav⯑ing ſacrificed their lives in defence of their country. Among thoſe who were deſpe⯑rately wounded, and left upon the field of action, thirty-two only were found ſtill alive. The names of many of theſe glorious combatants were carefully regi⯑ſtered, and ſtill remain upon record.

It is not eaſy to aſcertain the num⯑ber of forces on both ſides in this ever memorable engagement. As far as one can judge, by comparing the ſeveral re⯑lations of the French and German hiſ⯑torians, the army of the dauphin a⯑mounted at leaſt to 30,000. Charles VII. and his ſon Louis, in their letters to the German princes on this occaſion, re⯑preſent [514] the total loſs of the Swiſs to have been about 3,000: and perhaps that ac⯑count is not much exaggerated. With reſpect to the ſlain on the ſide of the dauphin, the amount is ſtill more uncer⯑tain: his loſs, however, muſt have been very conſiderable, for he remained three days upon the field of battle; and, the better to conceal the number of the killed, he ordered the dead bodies to be ſecretly buried in different parts of the neighbour⯑hood. Add to this, that he was effec⯑tually prevented from proſecuting his de⯑ſigns upon Swiſſerland, and compelled to retire with his ſhattered army into Alſace. That prince himſelf, indeed, declared, that ſuch another victory would ruin his army; and generouſly confeſſed, that he derived no other advantage from it, than to know and eſteem the valour of the Swiſs. Accordingly, this combat may be conſidered as forming a remarkable aera in the hiſtory of the Swiſs: for, it gave riſe to their treaty with Charles VII, and was the firſt alliance they ever en⯑tered into with France.

The war, however, between the houſe of Auſtria and Zuric on one ſide, and [515] the ſeven cantons on the other, continued until the year 1446, when a peace was concluded by the mediation and deciſion of the arbiters choſen for that purpoſe: Zuric renounced its alliance with the houſe of Auſtria; and the Helvetic con⯑federacy was again ſolemnly renewed and confirmed between the eight cantons. Upon this occaſion, two very important articles of the public law of Swiſſerland, were finally ſettled: Firſt, that all diſputes between any of the particular cantons, ſhall be decided by the mediation of the neutral ones; and in caſe either of the two contending parties refuſe to acquieſce under their judgment, the neutral cantons are empowered to have recourſe to arms, in order to compel the republic in queſtion to abide by their determination: Second⯑ly, notwithſtanding the right which ei⯑ther of the cantons might have reſerved to itſelf, of contracting alliances with foreign powers, yet the other confederates are to judge, whether ſuch alliance is con⯑tradictory to, or incompatible with, the articles of the general union; and if it ſhould appear to be ſo, it is declared ut⯑terly null and void.

[516] I cannot cloſe this letter without ad⯑ding, that the Swiſs ſtill talk of this fa⯑mous action with the warmeſt enthu⯑ſiaſm. Accordingly, the inhabitants of Baſil form parties every year, to an inn ſituated near the hoſpital and burying⯑ground above-mentioned, in order to commemorate, in a red wine produced from ſome vineyards planted on the field of battle, the heroic deeds of their brave countrymen, who ſo gloriouſly ſacrificed their lives upon the occaſion. This wine, which they call ‘"the blood of the Swiſs,"’ is highly prized by the Baſilians, though it has little to recommend it in point of flavour: nevertheleſs, I am much miſ⯑taken if that famous line of Horace,

was more applicable to the teazing poet he mentions, than it is to thoſe jovial patriotic parties at their anniverſary pota⯑tions of the ‘"Sang des Suiſſes."’

LETTER XLIII.

HAVING, in the courſe of my for⯑mer letters, communicated to you ſuch obſervations as I was able to make during my tour through Swiſſerland, con⯑cerning the laws, government, ſtate of literature, &c. of each canton in parti⯑cular; I will now requeſt from you the ſame candid indulgence I have ſo re⯑peatedly experienced, whilſt I lay before you a few concluding remarks, in relation to the ſtate of Swiſſerland in general.

There is no part of Europe which contains, within the ſame extent of re⯑gion, ſo many independent common⯑wealths, and ſuch a variety of different governments, as are collected together in this remarkable and delightful coun⯑try; and yet, with ſuch wiſdom was the Helvetic union compoſed, and ſo little have the Swiſs, of late years, been actu⯑ated with the ſpirit of conqueſt, that ſince the firm and complete eſtabliſh⯑ment of their general confederacy, they have ſcarcely ever had occaſion to employ their arms againſt a foreign enemy; and [518] have had no hoſtile commotions among themſelves, that were not ſoon hap⯑pily terminated. Perhaps there is not a ſimilar inſtance in antient or modern hiſtory, of a warlike people, divided into little independent republics, cloſely bor⯑dering upon each other, and of courſe having occaſionally interfering intereſts, having continued, during ſo long a pe⯑riod, in an almoſt uninterrupted ſtate of tranquillity. And thus, while the ſeveral neighbouring kingdoms have ſuffered, by turns, all the horrors of internal war, this favoured nation hath enjoyed the fe⯑licity deſcribed by Lucretius, and looked down with ſecurity upon the various tem⯑peſts that have ſhaken the world around them.

But the happineſs of a long peace, has neither broken the ſpirit, nor ener⯑vated the arm of this people. The youth are diligently trained to all the martial ex⯑erciſes, ſuch as running, wreſtling, and ſhooting both with the croſs-bow and the muſket; a conſiderable number of well-diſciplined Swiſs troops are always employed in foreign ſervices; and the whole people are enrolled, and regularly [519] exerciſed in their reſpective militia. By theſe means they are capable, in caſe it ſhould be neceſſary, of collecting a very reſpectable bo⯑dy of forces, which could not fail of prov⯑ing formidable to any enemy who ſhould invade their country, or attack their liber⯑ties. Thus, while moſt of the other ſtates upon the continent are tending more and more towards a military govern⯑ment, Swiſſerland alone has no ſtanding armies; and yet, from the nature of its ſituation, from its particular alliances, and from the policy of its internal go⯑vernment, is more ſecure from invaſion than any other European power, and full as able to withſtand the greateſt force that can be brought againſt it.

But the felicity of Swiſſerland does not conſiſt merely in being peculiarly ex⯑empted from the burdens and miſeries of war; there is no country in which hap⯑pineſs and content more univerſally pre⯑vail among the people. For, whether the government be ariſtocratical, demo⯑cratical, or mixed; abſolute or limited; a general ſpirit of liberty pervades and actuates the ſeveral conſtitutions: ſo that even the oligarchical ſtates (which, of all [520] others, are uſually the moſt tyrannical) are here peculiarly mild; and the pro⯑perty of the ſubject is ſecurely guarded againſt every kind of violation.

But there is one general defect in their criminal juriſprudence, which prevails throughout this country. For, although the Caroline code, as it is ſtyled, or the code of the Emperor Charles the Vth, forms in each of the republics the princi⯑pal baſis of their penal laws, with parti⯑cular modifications and additions in dif⯑ferent diſtricts; yet much too great a la⯑titude is allowed to the reſpective judges, who are leſs governed in their determina⯑tions by this code, or any other written law, than by the common principles of juſtice. How far long experience may have juſtified the prudence of truſting them with this extraordinary privilege, I cannot ſay; but diſcretionary powers of this kind, are undoubtedly liable to the moſt alarming abuſe, and can never, without the greateſt hazard, be committed to the hands of the magiſtrate.

I cannot forbear reflecting, upon this occaſion, on the ſuperior wiſdom, in the preſent inſtance, as well as in many others, [521] of our own moſt invaluable conſtitution; and indeed, it is impoſſible for an Engliſh⯑man to obſerve, in his travels, the govern⯑ments of other countries, without becoming a warmer and more affectionate admirer of his own. In England, the life and liberty of the ſubject does not depend upon the arbitrary deciſion of his judge, but is ſe⯑cured by expreſs laws, from which no magiſtrate can depart with impunity. This guarded preciſion, it is true, may occaſionally, perhaps, be attended with ſome inconveniences; but they are over⯑balanced by advantages of ſo much greater weight as to be ſcarcely percep⯑tible in the ſcales of juſtice. I do not mean, however, to throw any imputa⯑tion upon the officers of criminal juriſ⯑diction in Swiſſerland: as far as I could obſerve, they adminiſter diſtributive juſ⯑tice with an impartial and equitable hand.

I remarked, with peculiar ſatisfaction, the excellent ſtate of the priſons through⯑out this country, and the humane pre⯑cautions which the ſeveral legiſlatures have taken with reſpect to felons: a circumſtance which could not fail of [522] ſtriking me the more forcibly, as the con⯑trary is but too viſible in England. In Swiſſerland, the criminals are confined in wholeſome and ſeparate wards; and inſtead of languiſhing long in priſon, to the great injury of their health, or total waſte of their little remnant of money; they are almoſt immediately brought to trial. In England, a criminal, or one ſuſpected to be ſuch, may be confined ſix months before his fate ſhall be determined: and if he happen to be proved innocent, and ſhould be in low circumſtances; the loſs of his time, together with the expences of the gaol-fees, may probably occaſion his utter ruin; while his morals are in no leſs danger, by being compelled to aſſociate with a ſet of abandoned wretches, loſt to all ſenſe of ſhame, and encouraging each other in their common profligacy. How much is it to be lamented, that, while our code of criminal juriſprudence is in general formed upon principles, which diſtin⯑guiſh us with honour among the nations of Europe; that our courts of juſtice are thrown open to the view of all the world; and that we enjoy the ineſtimable and al⯑moſt peculiar privilege of being tried by [523] our equals; how much (I cannot forbear repeating) is it to be lamented, that the ſame equitable and humane ſpirit ſhould be found wanting in ſo important an arti⯑cle of our penal laws^*!

One cannot but be aſtoniſhed, as well as concerned, to find, that in a country [524] where the true principles of civil govern⯑ment are ſo well underſtood and ſo ge⯑nerally adopted as in Swiſſerland, that the trial by torture is not yet aboliſhed: for, in ſome particular caſes, the ſuſ⯑pected criminal is ſtill put to the rack. The inefficacy, no leſs than the inhuma⯑nity, of endeavouring to extort the truth by the ſeveral horrid inſtruments which too ingenious cruelty has deviſed for that purpoſe, has been ſo often expoſed by the ableſt writers, that it would be equal⯑ly impertinent and ſuperfluous to trouble you with any reflections of mine upon the ſubject: and indeed, the whole ſtrength of the ſeveral arguments that have been urged upon this occaſion, is compriſed in the very juſt and pointed obſervation of the admirable Bruyere, that la queſtion eſt une invention merveilleuſe & tout-à-fait ſûre, pour perdre un innocent qui a la complexion foible, & ſauver un coupable qui eſt né ro⯑buſte ^*. I cannot, however, but add, in juſtice to the Swiſs, that zealous advo⯑cates have not been wanting among them for the total abolition of torture: but ar⯑guments [525] of reaſon, and ſentiments of hu⯑manity, have been found, even in this ci⯑viliſed and enlightened country, to avail little againſt inveterate cuſtom and long⯑confirmed prejudices^†.

[526] Learning is leſs generally diffuſed a⯑mong the catholic than the proteſtant ſtates: but in both, a man of letters will find abundant opportunities of gratify⯑ing his reſearches and improving his knowledge. To the natural philoſopher, Swiſſerland will afford an inexhauſtible ſource of entertainment and information, as well from the great variety of phyſical curioſities ſo plentifully ſpread over the country, as from the conſiderable num⯑ber of perſons eminently ſkilled in that branch of ſcience. Indeed in every town, and almoſt in every village, the curious traveller will meet with collections wor⯑thy of his attention^*.

[527] With reſpect to agriculture; there is, perhaps, no country in the world where the advantageous effects of unwearied and perſevering induſtry are more remarkably conſpicuous. In travelling over the moun⯑tainous parts of Swiſſerland, I was ſtruck with admiration and aſtoniſhment, to ob⯑ſerve rocks, that were formerly barren, now planted with vines, or abounding in rich paſture; and to mark the traces of the plough along the ſides of precipi⯑ces ſo ſteep, that it muſt be with great difficulty that a horſe could even mount them. In a word, the inhabitants ſeem to have ſurmounted every obſtruction which ſoil, ſituation, and climate, had thrown in their way, and to have ſpread fertility over various ſpots of the country which nature ſeemed to have conſigned to everlaſting barrenneſs. In fine, a gene⯑ral ſimplicity of manners, an open and unaffected frankneſs, together with an invincible ſpirit of freedom, may juſtly be mentioned in the number of thoſe [528] peculiar qualities which dignify the pub⯑lic character of this people, and diſtin⯑guiſh them with honour among the na⯑tions of Europe.

I have now laid before you the prin⯑cipal obſervations which occurred to me in my journey through Swiſſerland: hap⯑py! if they may in any reſpect have con⯑tributed to your information or amuſe⯑ment. They were originally intended merely as a private memorial of friend⯑ſhip; but I have an additional ſatisfaction in the very unexpected opportunity they now afford me of more openly teſtifying the ſincere eſteem with which I am,