CHAP. I. Of the Country, Climate, Productions, and Animals.

KAMTSCHATKA is a peninſula, formed by a chain of rocky and barren mountains, running to the ſouth ſouth-weſt of that part of the continent of Si⯑beria, inhabited by the Koraiks: is bounded by the Eaſtern ocean, the gulph of Penſchinſkoi, and the ſea of Oghotzk, between 52 and 61 degrees of north la⯑titude, and extending to the 174th degree of longitude. The ſoil is ſtony, ſo deſtitute of the ſmalleſt piece of fertile land, and ſo cold, even in ſummer-time, that it will not of itſelf produce feed for cattle; nor is it fit [23] for cultivation. To an European it would be deemed uninhabitable; yet it is the place to which Ruſſia tranſ⯑ports its greateſt criminals.

In 1690, the Ruſſians firſt heard there was ſuch a place; ſix years afterwards, they took poſſeſſion of it. In 1727, an expedition to this place was undertaken by Bhering, but not completed till 1741. Major Paw⯑loutſky, at the head of a detachment, traverſed great part of this country, and conquered it in 1738; ſince which time it has been viſited by others.

Mr. Steller, who reſided ſome time in this country, and ſeems to have taken great pains to gain information on this ſubject, is perſuaded, that the true Kamtſcha⯑dales are a people of great antiquity, and have, for many ages, inhabited this peninſula; and that they are originally deſcended from the Mongols; for they have no tradition of having migrated from any other coun⯑try, they believing themſelves created, and placed on this very ſpot, by their god Koutkou; that they are the moſt favoured of all his creatures, the moſt for⯑tunate of beings; and that their country is ſuperior to all others, affording means of gratification, far beyond what are any where elſe to be met with.

The Ruſſians have a few ſettlements in this peninſula, which they call Oſtrogs. Theſe are no other than a building, ſurrounded by a palliſado, but ſufficient to [24] protect their trade, and guard the baniſhed criminals. To theſe places they are obliged to ſend the neceſſaries of life, from great diſtances, by horſes.

Kamtſchatka is plentifully furniſhed with rivers; but none are navigable, except one; and this will carry veſſels 150 miles up from its mouth.

The natural ſeverity of the climate, muſt be in due proportion to the general ſterility of the ſoil; of which it is probably the cauſe. In May, 1779, the whole face of it was covered with ſnow, from ſix to eight feet deep. On the 6th, Captain King ſays, it ſnowed, with the wind at north-eaſt; on the 8th of May, at noon, the thermometer ſtood at 32°; on the 12th, the ſnow melted; and, in the beginning of June, the low lands were clear. On the 15th of June, the thermometer had never riſen higher than 58°; nor the barometer than 30° 4′. In Auguſt, all ſorts of vegetation ſeemed to be in its beſt ſtate of perfection. In September, the weather is changeable, but not ſevere; the greateſt height of the thermometer was 65°, the loweſt, 40°; the barometer's greateſt height, 30°; its loweſt, 29° 3′ In the beginning of October, the tops of the hills begin to be covered again with ſnow. Their ſummer, then, ought to be conſidered from the middle of June to the middle of September. October may be conſidered as an autumnal month; and, from thence to the end of May, winter: no ſpring.

[25]Thunder and lightening is here not very common; but their winter is very ſevere, and they have often dreadful hurricanes of wind and ſnow. Major Bekm, who was the Ruſſian governor of Kamtſchatka, in 1779, ſays, That the winter of that year was ſo cold and inclement, that all intercourſe between the inha⯑bitants was entirely ſtopped; every one being afraid to ſtir out, even from one houſe to another, for fear of being froſt-bitten. This extreme cold, in ſo low a la⯑titude, can only be accounted for, from its being ſituated to the eaſt of ſuch an immenſe uncultivated tract of country; and from the prevalence of the weſt⯑erly winds, blowing over ſo extenſive and cold a con⯑tinent. The extraordinary violence, and impetuoſity of the winds, is attributed to the ſubterraneous fires, the ſulphureous exhalations, and the general volcanic diſpoſition of the country.

This peninſula abounds in volcanoes; three of which have, for ſome time paſt, been ſubject to eruptions. One of theſe, in the beginning of 1739, vomited forth, from its ſummit, ſuch a whirlwind of flames, as to re⯑duce the neighbouring foreſts to aſhes.

Their country is ſaid to contain numerous ſprings of hot water. Kratſcheninikaff ſays, There are very extra-ordinary pits, or wells, at the bottom of which the water is ſeen to boil, as in a cauldron, with prodigious force and impetuoſity; at the ſame time, a dreadful [26] noiſe iſſues out of them, and ſo thick a vapour, that a man cannot be ſeen through it.

On the banks of their navigable rivers, ſays the ſame author, is found plenty of roots and berries, which, in ſome meaſure, ſupply the want of corn. Near the head of this river, corn would grow, as well as in other places of the ſame latitude. Several trials of ſummer-corn have been made, in which both barley and oats have ſucceeded. Vegetables have alſo been tried; but the moſt ſucculent plants, produce only leaves and ſtalks. Cabbages and lettuce never come to per⯑fection; and peas will bloom till late in harveſt, and not bear. Turneps and radiſhes thrive well; and the graſs, eſpecially near the rivers and lakes, runs up near ſix feet high, and grows ſo faſt, that it is ſometimes cut three times in a ſummer. Cattle, in ſuch places, are, therefore, large and fat, and give plenty of milk all the year. Places, where the graſs grows, are not ſo much covered with ſnow, as the bogs and ſwamps. There is plenty of wood in this country, fit for build⯑ing houſes and ſhipping. Mr. King, who was there in May, 1779, ſays, he travelled over the ſnow, to a well-wooded f [...]at, where the ſnow was thawed, but the trees were juſt budding, and the verdure of the whole ſcene was ſtrongly contraſted with the ſides of the ſurround⯑ing hills, ſtill covered with ſnow; that the ſoil appeared capable of producing all common vegetables, and ye he did not ſee the ſmalleſt ſpot cultivated, nor were [27] any of the inhabitants poſſeſſed of any kind of cattle. Yet, in another place, he ſays. If I may judge of the ſoil, by what I ſaw of its vegetation, I ſhould not heſitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither in the bay, nor in the country I traverſed, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I ever meet with the ſmalleſt ſpot of ground, that reſembled what is called, in England, a good green turf, or that ſeemed as if it could be turned to any advantage, either in the way of paſturage, or other mode of cultivation. The face of the country, in general, was covered with ſtunted trees, having a bottom of moſs, mixed with low, weak heath. The whole bore a more ſtriking reſemblance to Newfoundland, than to any other part of the world I had ever ſeen. However, he admits, in one place, that he ſaw three or four ſtacks of ſweet and very fine-looking hay.

Of the trees, ſays Captain King, which fell under my notice, the principal was, the birch, the poplar, the alder (with the bark of which they ſtain their leather), many ſpecies of willow, and a kind of dwarf cedar, or pine, which yields a good eſſence for beer. The birch the natives tap, and drink the juice, without mix⯑ture, or preparation; it it pleaſant and refreſhing, but ſomewhat purgative. Birch-bark they convert into veſſels, for all domeſtic purpoſes; and of the wood they make their ſledges and canoes. Kratſcheninikaff ſays, They convert the young bark of the birch into food, [28] ſtripping it off whilſt green, drying it in ſlips, like vermicelli, and ſtewing it with caviar. He ſays, there are alſo firs and larches, the ſervice-tree (padus ſoliis annuis), and two ſpecies of the white thorn, one bearing a red, and the other a black berry.

Of the ſhrub kind, there are junipers, the mountain-aſh, wild ruſhes, raſberries, and a variety of other berries, which the natives gather and boil into a thick jam, without ſugar. Theſe are uſed as ſauce for dried fiſh, and are likewiſe eat in puddings.

In a wild ſtate, ſays Captain King, we met with ſe⯑veral, wholeſome vegetables, ſuch as celery, angelica, chervil, garlick and onions, turneps, and turnep-ra⯑diſhes. They have a plant, peculiar to this country, that bears a dark red, ſingle flower, like a narciſſus, the root a bulbous one, which they collect in Auguſt, dry in the ſun, and lay up for uſe. When roaſted on embers, it ſupplies the place of bread. After being baked in an oven, and pounded, it becomes an ex⯑cellent ſubſtitute for flour, being mixed with all their ſoups, &c.

They have another plant, called, ſweet graſs; the botanical deſcription of which is, Heracleum Sibericum ſoliis pinnatis, ſoliolis quinis, intermediis ſeſſilibus, corol⯑lulis uniformibus. Hort. Upſal. 65. The time, ſays Captain King, when I took notice of it, was in May. [29] It was about a foot and a half high, had much the ap⯑pearance of ſedge, and was covered with a white down, like hoar froſt, which might be rubbed off, and taſted ſweet as ſugar, but was hot and pungent. The ſtalk is hollow, and conſiſts of three or four joints, from each of which ariſe large leaves, and, when at its full growth, is ſix feet high.

They ſcrape off the down of this plant, lay the ſtalks in heaps to ſweat, and, on their growing dry again, being put into mats, they will yield a ſweet ſaccherine powder, which exſudes from the hollow of the ſtalk, but in the proportion of four ounces of powder to 36 pounds of ſtalks; from which powder they diſtill a ſpirit.

They have, alſo, three other plants; one is a kind of ranunculus, of the graſs of which they make a ſort of matting, which ſerves for ſacks, bed-cloaths, curtains, &c. Another, which reſembles cyperoides, is carded, like wool, and of which they make cloths and wadding. The other, is of the common nettle; of the flax of which they make their nets.

Their animals ſupply them with variety of ſkins; ſuch as the common fox, the Zibeline, or ſable, the Iſatis, or arctic fox, the varying hare, the mountain-rat, or earleſs marmout, the weaſel, the wolvene, or glutton, the argali, or wild ſheep, rein-deer, bears, wolves, and dogs.

[30]The fox (Canis vulpes), is the moſt general object of the chace; as they are found, in great numbers, and of a variety of colours; ſome of a dark cheſnut, ſome ſtriped with dark-coloured bars; ſome with black bel⯑lies, and the reſt of the body a light cheſnut; ſome of a dark brown, ſome black, others of a ſtone colour, and ſome few quite white. Their furs are thick and fine, and ſuperior to thoſe of Siberia, or America. A variety of engines are contrived to catch this animal, which is as crafty here as in other countries. Some traps are calculated to fall on them, ſome to catch them by the feet, and others by the head. They ſometimes lay poi⯑ſon for them, (the nux vomica): before the Ruſſians came among them, they uſed bows and arrows; but now every one is provided with a rifled-barrelled gun.

The mountain-rat is a beautiful, little animal, of a bright ſhining colour, varying in hue, like the plumage of birds. It lives on roots and berries, is conſiderabiy leſs than a ſquirrel, and eats, as does a ſquirrel, erect on its hind legs, holding its food in its fore-paws. But

The ſkin of the glutton is held here in the higheſt eſtimation. The women adorn their hair with its parts, which are white; and a Kamtſchadale conſiders himſelf richly attired, when he has any of this fur about him. They have a ſuperſtitious notion, that angels are clad in the ſkins of theſe animals. It is ſaid, this creature is eaſily tamed, and taught a number of pleaſant tricks. [31] Kratſcheninikaff relates, that this ſmall animal frequently deſtroys deer, and the wild mountain-ſheep; that they ſcatter moſs, and bark, which theſe animals are fond of, at the bottoms of trees; and whilſt they are picking it up, drop ſuddenly upon them, and faſtening behind the head, ſuck out their eyes.

The argali, or wild mountain-ſheep (Capra ammon), an animal unknown, except in Corſica and Sardinia, is here in great plenty. Its ſkin reſembles the deer's; but, in gait and appearance, it is more like a goat. It has two large, twiſted horns, ſometimes weighing from 25 to 30 pounds, which, in running, it reſts upon its back. Theſe creatures are exceedingly nimble and ſwift, haunt the moſt craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the ſteepeſt rocks, with an aſtoniſhing agility. The natives work their horns into ſpoons, cups and platters; and have one frequently hanging at their girdles, to drink out of, when hunting. This animal is of the ſheep-kind, and its fleſh is well-flavoured.

They have another remarkable animal, about the ſize of a ſheep, called, a Kangaroo; reſembling, in taſte, the fleſh of a hare, but better flavoured. Its body is formed like a gooſe, largeſt behind, and growing taper to the head which reſembles that of a fawn; it has lips, and ears which it throws back, like a hare; in the upper jaw, it has ſix large teeth, in the under one, only two; its neck is ſhort and ſmall, near to which are the [32] fore-feet, which have five toes, each with nails, like a cat. The fore-legs are kept cloſe to the breaſt, and ſeem, like thoſe of the mole, to be uſed only for dig⯑ging; they are ſmall, and not more than eight inches long, having no knee-joint, but the hind legs have the cuſtomary joints of animals, and are 22 inches long. It has a tail tapering to the end, as long as its whole body, which it carries like a grey-hound; and the whole animal is covered with a ſhort fur, of a dark mouſe, or grey-colour. It ſits up on its hinder legs, like a hare in her form, and does not run, like other quadrupeds, but leaps, like a hare, or deer.

The dogs of this country are ſomething like the Pomeranian, only a great deal larger, and the hair ſomewhat coarſer. They are of various colours; but the generality, are of a dirty, cream colour. They yoke theſe dogs to ſledges, and thus travel on the ſnow. Towards the end of May, they are all turned looſe, and left to provide for themſelves, through⯑out the ſummer, being ſure to return to their reſpective homes, when the ſnow begins to fall. Their food, in winter, is the head, entrails, and back bones of the ſalmon, which are put aſide, and dried for that pur⯑poſe. Five dogs are yoked to a ſledge, two and two, with a leader; and, as a ſledge carries but one perſon, the number of them is very great. Captain King's party took up 139. They never uſe the female for draught, but dogs that are cut. Whelps are trained to this [33] buſineſs, by tying them to ſtakes, with tight, leather thongs, made to ſtretch; and having their food placed at a proper diſtance, out of their reach; ſo that, by con⯑ſtantly pulling and drawing, in order to reach their victuals, they acquire both ſtrength of limbs, and a habit of drawing.

The ſledge is a kind of half moon, or creſcent, made of light, tough wood, bound together with wicker-work, the horns of the creſcent upright, the circular part fixed by four legs, about two feet high, on two flat pieces of wood, like a Laplander's ſnow-ſcates, five or ſix inches broad, extending a foot, at each end, beyond the body of the ſledge: theſe are turned up before, in the manner of a ſcate, and ſhod with bone. The body is about four-feet and a half long, and a foot wide, the hollow part of the creſcent is covered with a fur, the fore-part ornamented with leather thongs, and taſſels of coloured cloth; and the wood-work often ſtained with red and blue. In front, is a croſs bar, to which the harneſs is fixed, and on which are links of iron, and ſmall bells, the jingling of which encourages the dogs. The perſon riding in this ſledge, ſits ſide⯑ways, reſting his feet on the lower part, and carries his proviſions, &c. wrapped up in a bundle behind him. Each dog has a collar, to which the reins are faſtened; but theſe are of little uſe in governing them; the rider depends on the obedience of the dogs to his voice; for this purpoſe, the leader is ſo well trained up, and with [34] ſuch a particular degree of care and attention, that one has been valued at 40 rubles, or 10 pounds Engliſh. The driver has a crooked ſtick, which anſwers the end both of whip and reins; as, by ſtriking it into the ſnow, he can moderate their ſpeed, or ſtop them entirely; and, when they are lazy, or inattentive to his voice, he throws the ſtick at them. The leader immediately picks it up, returns it to the driver, and haſtens on. Should the driver loſe his ſtick, the dogs will inſtantly perceive it; and, unleſs their leader be of the moſt ſober and reſolute kind, will immediately run a-head full ſpeed, and never ſtop till they are quite ſpent; but as that is the caſe ſoon, it generally happens, that the carriage is either overturned, daſhed to pieces againſt ſome tree, or hurried down a precipice, and all buried in the ſnow. The accounts Captain King received, of the ſpeed, and extraordinary patience of hunger and fatigue of theſe dogs, would be ſcarcely credible, if they were not ſupported by the beſt authority. Though fed only on the offal of ſtinking and dead fiſh, they are deprived of this wretched food, a day before they ſet out on a journey; and never ſuffered to eat, but at the end of it. It is not unuſual for them to continue thus faſt⯑ing two whole days; in which time they will perform a journey of 120 miles. Travelling parties, ſays Kraſ⯑chininikaff, are often overtaken with dreadful ſtorms of ſnow; on the approach of which they drive, with the utmoſt precipitation, into the neareſt wood, and are there obliged to ſtay, till the tempeſt, which frequently [35] laſts ſix or ſeven days, is over, the dogs remaining all this time quiet and inoffenſive, except that ſometimes, when preſt by hunger, they will devour their reins, and other, leather parts of their harneſs. All the time the ſledges are preparing, the dogs howl, with a melancholy noiſe; but, as ſoon as they are yoked, and ready to ſet out, they change to a light, chearful yelping, which ceaſes, the inſtant they ſet off.

It is very difficult to travel in theſe ſledges; for, un⯑leſs a man keeps the exacteſt balance, he is liable to be over-turned every moment. In going down hill, they unyoke all the dogs, but one; and, in going up hill, the rider walks. When the ſnow is very ſoft and ten⯑der, the rider quits the ſledge, and makes a path for it, by going before, with his ſnow-ſhoes, ſuch as the Laplanders and Eaſtjaiks uſe, thus preſſing the ſnow down. This is laborious work; but he has no al⯑ternative.

When they take ſhelter in a wood, from ſtorms, and this ſtorm is likely to laſt long, a Kamtſchadale will wrap himſelf up in his fur, and creep under the ſnow, where he lies as warm as in his hut. It is difficult to perſwade them to make a fire to warm themſelves, or dreſs their food; all the people of this climate, bear cold ſo well, that they will ſleep as ſound in the open air, as others do in warm beds.

[36]The coaſts and bays of this country, are frequented by almoſt every kind of northern ſea-fowl, and, among the reſt, ſea-eagles, of beautiful plumage, and called a-an-gitche, from their ſingular and pleaſing cry, con⯑ſiſting of three diſtinct notes (according to muſic, f, on the firſt ſpace below, a, c, repeated), riſing, at equal in⯑tervals above each other. Whilſt on the ſubject of birds, I muſt not omit the diſguſting mode of feeding of the arctic gull, which has procured it the name of the paraſite. This bird, which is ſomewhat larger than the common gull, purſues the latter kind, whenever it meets it; the gull, after flying for ſome time, with loud ſcreams, and evident marks of great terror, drops its dung, which its purſuer immediately darts at, and catches, before it falls into the ſea.

In the woods, are many eagles, of a prodigious ſize, and a great number of hawks, falcons, and buſtards. Here are, alſo, woodcocks, ſnipes, and two ſorts of growſe, or moor-ga ne; and, in the ſea, ſeals, ſea-otters and whales, &c.

Indeed, there is ſuch plenty of fiſh of all kinds, that it may be conſidered as their ſtaple article of food. Fiſh may be here called the ſtaff of life, with more propriety than bread is in other countries. The whole they convert to various uſes: of the ſkin they make ſoles to their ſhoes, and ſtraps and thongs; the fleſh they eat, ſtoring the fat for kitchen-uſe, and [37] for their lamps. With their whiſkers, they ſew the ſeams of their canoes, and make nets for large fiſh, and ſhoe their ſledges with the jaw-bones. The other bones are worked up into knives, and other inſtruments. Their inteſtines they clean, blow, and dry like blad⯑ders, to ſtore their oil and fat in; and of the nerves, and veins, which are ſtrong, and ſlip readily, they make excellent ſnares; ſo that every part has its uſe.

They catch quantities of flat fiſh, trout, herrings and cod; but the ſalmon-fiſhing is what the natives moſt depend on for their winter-proviſions; and the coaſts abound here with all the different ſpecies.

CHAP. II. Of the inhabitants, their habitations, and employments.

HISTORY is unacquainted with the origin of this people; and they, themſelves, know nothing of it; nor of any events that have happened in their na⯑tion. I believe it will be admitted, that, from this quarter of the world, the weſtern parts of North Ame⯑rica were peopled; eſpecially, when we come to give an account of the people on the coaſt oppoſite to the moſt eaſtern part of Aſia; for Captain King has proved, beyond a doubt, that the two great continents, in [38] one part of Bhering's ſtreights, in latitude 66°, are not more than 13 leagues aſunder; and that, in this narrow ſtreight, are ſeveral iſlands. A great ſimilarity is obſervable in the appearance of the two countries. Both are deſtitute of wood. The ſhores are low, with mountains riſing to a great height. Farther up the country, the depth of water, in the mid-way, between them, is 29 fathoms, gradually decreaſing towards either continent, ſo that it ſeems as if they were divided by ſome violent concuſſion of the earth; and the ſtreights between them being crowded with iſlands, favour the ſame idea. But to return to the Kamtſchadales, who, to judge of them by their language, figure, and man⯑ner, would be taken for a ſeparate people, bearing ſome little relation to the iſlanders in their neighbourhood. Theſe, and other circumſtances, are a ſtrong proof of the antiquity of this people, who are as wild as the country itſelf. Few of them have any fixed habitations, but wander, with their herds of rein-deer, from place to place. They are divided into three nations; the Kamt⯑ſchadales, Koriaks, and Kurilians. The Koraiks in⯑habit the northern parts, and round the Eaſtern ocean, almoſt to Anadir; and the Kurilians inhabit the iſlands in the Eaſtern ſea, reaching as far as thoſe of Japan.

They are of ſmall ſtature, ſwarthy, black hair, large heads, long, flat faces, ſharp noſes, ſmall eyes, ſinking in; ſmall, thin eye-brows, hanging bellies, ſhort legs, [39] and their arms ſmall and ſlender. They are ſtout walkers, regardleſs of change of weather, and indiffer⯑ent to their manner of living. The women have black eyes, and eye-brows, a delicate ſkin, lovely complexion, pretty hands, ſmall feet, and are tole⯑rably well-made.

The antient dreſs of both ſexes, differed from the preſent faſhions, which have been introduced by the Ruſſians. Men and women dreſs nearly alike: they wear a ſhirt, looſe breeches, like the Dutch, which faſten below the knee, with ſtockings of ſkin, the hair outwards, and a kind of ſhoe, or buſkin, laced round the leg. Their upper garment is a fur frock, like a carter's frock, that reaches almoſt to the knees, the hairy ſide of the ſkin inwards. It has ſleeves that cloſe at the wriſt, is bordered with dog's hair, and has a tip⯑pet of long dog's hair round the neck, which they can turn up againſt the face, to keep it warm. This frock, or ſchube, has alſo a hood, which they occaſionally pull over their heads. The women tie a handkerchief over their heads, that comes down low on the forehead, the knot behind, and the ends hanging down before on each ſide. The upper robe of the man is tied round his waiſt, with a girdle. Till the Ruſſians came among them, they went almoſt naked; wearing only a fur-gir⯑dle, handſomely embroidered, with a bag before, and an apron behind; and, at preſent, when at home, they often ſit in this undreſs. Formerly, they wore bonnets [40] made of bird's feathers, exactly like thoſe on the op⯑poſite ſhore of America, eaſt of Kamtſchatka; but they now dreſs, as do the Ruſſians among them. They wear gloves conſtantly, even in the night-time. Formerly, they braided their hnir, in the Tartar faſhion; now, they divide it on the top of the head, plait it at the neck, and adorn it with ribbands, glaſs beads, &c. Some dreſs entirely in the Ruſſian mode, wear cloaths of dif⯑ferent kinds, cloaths with buttons, and boots; and the women, when dreſſed out, wear ſilk ſhifts, with ruffles, ſlippers, and a ſilk hankerchief round the head, imi⯑tating a curtain; which dreſs coſts, at Kamtſchatka, at leaſt a hundred ſables, or fox-ſkins, each ſkin equal to a ruble, which the huſband procures in the beſt manner he can. The Ruſſians, in Kamtſchatka, wear the European dreſs; and the uniform of the troops quartered here, is dark green, faced with red. For⯑merly, they never waſhed themſelves; now, they paint their faces, red and white. Their white paint is made of rotten wood, and Ruſſian glaſs, calcined (Selenites); their red, of a ſea-weed (Sertularia), boiled in ſeal's fat. With this, they rub their cheeks, till they are very red.

Time immemorial, the Kamtſchadales have lived in fixed habitations, or villages. They formerly fortified theſe, by entrenchments, paliſadoes, and ramparts of earth; and, of courſe, the Ruſſians have given theſe villages the name of Oſtrog, or redoubt; but they are not ſuffered to intrench themſelves now, though their villages are yet ſo called. Every family has a winter, and a ſummer-houſe. The Jourt, or winter-houſe, is thus formed. They dig a hole in the ground, about five feet deep, the breadth and length proportioned to the number of inhabitants. In the middle of this hole, they erect four wooden pillars; over theſe, they lay balks, on which they form the roof, or cieling, leaving, in the middle, a ſquare opening, which ſerves them for window, chimney, and door: this done, they cover the building with graſs and earth, ſo that it reſembles, on the outſide, a round hillock; but within, it is an oblong ſquare, with the fire-place in one of the long ſides. Between the pillars and the walls of their hut, three parts round, they fix broad platforms, made of boards, raiſed about ſix inches from the ground, like a taylor's ſhop-board, on which each of the family lies ſeparate⯑ly, having firſt covered them with mats; on that ſide [42] oppoſite the fire, there are no benches, this place being left for their kitchen-furniture. The walls are adorn⯑ed with graſs and mats. Theſe huts are entered at the hole above, between the pillars, by an ill-formed lad⯑der, a kind of balk, with ſteps cut in it; and, it being nearly over the fire-place, for the convenience of letting out the ſmoke, when they are heating their huts, the ſteps of the ladder are ſometimes ſo hot, and the ſmoke ſo thick, that it is almoſt impoſſible for any but a native to go up and down, without being burnt, or ſuffocated; yet, a Kamtſchadale finds no difficulty in this, but fixes his toes on the ſteps of the ladder, and mounts like a ſquirrel; nor do the women heſitate to go through this ſmoke, with their children on their ſhoulders, though there is another opening, through which the women are allowed to paſs; but if any man ſhould preſume to do the ſame, he would be laughed at. Here they live all the winter. At their feaſts and entertainments, the hotter the jourts are made, for the reception of the gueſts, the greater the compliment. They betake them⯑ſelves to the jourts, the middle of October, and continue in them till the middle of May. Five or ſix families live in one jourt; but each family has a ſummer-tent to itſelf.

Their Balagans, or ſummer houſes, are built with laths, like pidgeon-houſes, raiſed about 14 feet from the ground, on nine poſts, fixed into the earth in three rows; ſome in circular form, and others in an an⯑gular. [43] The balks inclining to each other at the top, give them a conical appearance. The walls, and roof are covered with wood, and thatched with long graſs. Theſe huts are very ſmall, and many of them being built cloſe together, boards of communication, like bridges, are laid acroſs, one to the other; and fre⯑quently they fix boards round theſe tents, in which they ſit abroad, in fine weather. Theſe raiſed huts have two doors each, in the ſides, oppoſite to each other; are raiſed thus high, to defend them from the plunder of wild beaſts; and, to prevent the inconvenience of the damp ground, which is very moiſt in ſummer-time. As theſe huts are not very ſtrong, a briſker wind than uſual ſhakes them to and fro; but, notwithſtanding this precaution, of raiſing their magazines ſo much above ground, bears, in harveſt-time, will often make a ſhift to climb up, and plunder them. Underneath theſe huts, they tie their dogs.

They have, alſo, other houſes, called Iſbas, or log-houſes. Theſe are raiſed with long timbers, piled hori⯑zontally, the ends being let into one another, and the ſeams caulked with moſs. The roof is ſloping, like that of our common cottages, and thatched with coarſe graſs, or ruſhes. The inſide conſiſts of three apart⯑ments. At one end is the entry, a room that runs the whole width, and height of the houſe; and holds their ſledges, harneſs, and bulky, houſhold goods. This communicates with the middle, and beſt apartment, [44] furniſhed with broad benches, or platforms, for eating and ſleeping on. Out of this is a door into the kitch⯑en; one half of which is taken up by the fire-place, ſo contrived, by being let into the wall that ſeparates the kitchen from the middle room, as to warm them both. Over theſe two rooms are two lofts, to which they aſ⯑cend by a ladder in the entry. Each room has two ſmall windows, of talc, or fiſh-ſkin, to let in the light The beams, and boards of the cieling, are dubbed with a hatchet (planes they have none), and, from the effects of the ſmoke, are black and ſhining, as jet.

The governor's houſe is built with logs, as above, and thatched, but much larger; conſiſts of three handſome rooms, neatly papered, the windows of talc. The town of Bolcheretſk, where he reſides, conſiſts of ſeveral rows of low buildings, each conſiſting of five or ſix dwellings, beſides a well-looking church, a court-room, and barracks for the ſoldiers. The inhabitants of this town, altogether, amount to between 5 and 600. The governor, Major Behm, lived here, with his wife and family.

The ſouthern Kamtſchadales commonly build their villages (which ſhall not, however, conſiſt of more than 20 or 30 huts), in thick woods, and other places, na⯑turally ſtrong, and not more than 15 miles from the ſea. Their ſummer-habitations are near the mouths of rivers; but thoſe upon the Perichinſka ſea, and the [45] Eaſtern ocean, build their villages very near the ſhore. They conſider the river, near their village, as the in⯑heritance of their tribe.

Before the arrival of the Ruſſians, they uſed ſtones, and bones, inſtead of metals; out of which they made their hatchets, ſpears, arrows, needles, and lances. Hatchets were made of the bones of whales and rein-deer; and ſometimes of agate and flint. They were ſhaped like a wedge, and faſtened to crooked handles. With theſe they hollowed out their canoes, boats, diſhes, and troughs, which, with cans of birch-bark, conſti⯑tuted the whole of their furniture; but with ſo much trouble and time, that a canoe would take three years to make it, and a large boat one year. On this account, a large canoe, or trough, was held in great eſtimation; and, a village in poſſeſſion of ſuch a one, ſet the higheſt value on it. In theſe bowls, they dreſs their victuals, and heat their broth, by throwing red-hot ſtones into it.

Their knives were made of a greeniſh mountain-chryſtal, ſharp pointed, ſhaped like a lancet, and ſtuck into a wooden handle. Of ſuch cryſtals were made the points of their arrows, ſpears, and lancets, which laſt they now uſe to let blood. Needles were formed of ſable-bones; and, with theſe, they uſed to embroider very curiouſly; but now, the Ruſſians have furniſhed them with uſeful materials of all kinds.

[46]Notwithſtanding they imitate the Ruſſians, in a great degree, they have a number of peculiar cuſtoms, ſome of which are very extraordinary, and which will always be retained, from the nature, and the inclemency of the weather. They prefer procuring of fire, by friction, to the uſe of flints and ſpunk. To procure fire, they make a ſmall hole in a piece of dry wood, in which they turn a ſtick, ſo rapidly, between their hands, that it takes fire. The Eſkimaux Indians, on the Labrador coaſt, do the ſame; and is a proof of their former communication. Pounded hay ſerves them for tinder. As ſome of them delight in war, the Ruſſian merchants are prohibited from ſelling them any war⯑like inſtruments; but they are ingenious enough to make ſpears and arrows, out of the iron pots and ket⯑tles which they purchaſe; and they are ſo dextrous, that, when the eye of a needle breaks, they will make a new one, and ſo repeat it, till nothing remains but the point.

In former times, they never ate till they were hungry; but now, they have regular meals. As what they eat, is always cold, they have very fine teeth. The fleſh of land, and the larger, ſea-animals, is boiled, in troughs; the broth they drink out of ladles and bowls, and the meat they take out upon boards, and eat with their hands. They divide their fiſh into ſix parts: the ſides, and tail, are hung up to dry; the back, and the inner part of the belly, are prepared apart, and generally [47] dried over the fire; the head is laid to ſour, in pits, then eaten like ſalt-fiſh, and much eſteemed, though it ſtinks intolerably; the ribs, and fleſh upon them, are hung up and dried, and then pounded for uſe; the larger bones are dried, and given to the dogs.

Their ſecond favourite food is caviar, or the roes of fiſh, which they dry in the air; and never take a jour⯑ney, or go a hunting, without it; and, if a Kamt⯑ſchadale has a pound of this, he can ſubſiſt a great while, without any other proviſion; for, every birch, and alder-tree, furniſhes him with bark, which, with his dried caviar, makes him an agreeable meal; but they cannot eat either ſeparately, for the caviar ſticks to the teeth, like glue, and it is almoſt impoſſible to ſwallow the bark, chew it ever ſo long.

They have a third diet, called Chupriki, thus pre⯑pared. In their huts, over the fire-place, they make a bridge, of ſtakes, on which they lay a heap of ſhell-fiſh, which there remains, till the hut is as warm as a bag⯑nio. It is there ſmoked and roaſted, and has a very agreeable taſte, and may be reckoned the beſt of all their cooking; for the whole juice, and fat, being prepared with a gradual heat, and kept in by the ſkin, this ſkin, when the fiſh is done, is ſtripped off, and the guts taken out, and ſpread, on mats, to dry.

[48]They have alſo another diſh, called Huigul, which is, fiſh laid in pits to ſour and putrify; and, though the ſtench is intolerable, the Kamtſchadales eſteem it a perfume. This fiſh rots ſo much, often in theſe pits, that it cannot be taken out but by ladles; in which caſe, it is given to their dogs.

There is a principal diſh at all their feaſts, called Selaga, made by pounding all ſorts of roots and berries together, with the addition of caviar, and whale's and ſeal's fat.

Before the conqueſt of the Ruſſians, they ſeldom drank any thing but water, except at feſtivals, when they drank water in which muſhrooms had been ſteeped. Now they drink ſpirits as faſt as the Ruſſians. After dinner, they drink water; and, at night, ſet a veſſel by their bed-ſide, with the addition of ſnow, or ice, to keep it cool, and always drink it up before morning. In winter, they frequently amuſe themſelves, by throw⯑ing hands-full of ſnow into their mouths.

They eat and drink amazing quantities. Notwith⯑ſtanding they are poor, they are very hoſpitable; but their hoſpitality is original. The hoſt, to do the honours of his houſe, heats his winter-hut to a conſiderable de⯑gree, and, by never ceaſing to preſs his gueſt to ſtuff down his ſhocking food, forces him ro ſwallow ſuch a quantity of it, that he muſt vomit; and, the more he [49] vomits, the more is he preſſed to eat. When a man has done ſuch juſtice to his friend's entertainment, he has ſecured to himſelf every ſervice it is in the power of his entertainer to do him. To be a little more par⯑ticular on this ſubject: When any man ſeeks the friend⯑ſhip of another, he invites him to his hut, and, for his entertainment, dreſſes as much of his beſt victuals, as might ſerve ten people. As ſoon as the ſtranger comes into the hut, which is made hot for his re⯑ception, both he and the hoſt ſtrip themſelves naked, then great plenty of victuals is ſet before the gueſt, and, whilſt he is eating, the hoſt throws water upon red-hot ſtones, until he makes the hut inſupportably hot. The ſtranger endeavours all he can to bear this ex⯑ceſſive heat, and to eat up all the victuals; whilſt the hoſt is ſtill endeavouring to oblige him to complain of the heat, and beg to be excuſed from eating all up. It is reckoned an affront to the hoſt, not to be able to accompliſh this; and a niggardlineſs in the hoſt, not to urge his friend till he complies. During this operation, the hoſt eats nothing himſelf, and may go out of the hut to cool himſelf; but the ſtranger is not ſuffered to ſtir, till he acknowledges himſelf overcome. At theſe feaſts, they gorge to ſuch a degree, as not to be able to bear the ſight of food for three days afterwards; and are ſcarce able to move.

When the ſtranger has gorged himſelf to the full, and can no longer endure the heat, he purchaſes leave [50] to retire, with preſents of dogs, cloaths, and other things This, however, is conſidered as no injury; for he expects, in turn, to treat his friend in the ſame manner.

In their banquets, they treat their friends much in the ſame way; except that they do not torment them with heat, nor expect any preſents. When they enter⯑tain with the fat of ſeals, or whales, they cut it out in ſlices, and the hoſt kneeling before his company, with one of theſe ſlices in one hand, and a knife in the other, thruſts the fat into their mouths, crying, in a ſurly tone, Ta na; and, with his knife, cuts off all that hangs out of their mouths, after they are crammed as full as they can hold; ſo do the Eaſtjaiks. (See the plates of the Eaſtjaiks).

To kill a bear is to perform an heroic deed. On this occaſion, the hunter, proud of his atchievement, invites his friends to a feaſt, which conſiſts of pieces of lard, cut from the bear, and handed round among the gueſts; each of whom graſps it in his hand, takes a bite, and paſſes it to his next neighbour.

Part of their employment is, to make boats, and ſledges. Their boats are made of poplar-wood; but, the Kurilians, not having any wood, make uſe of what is thrown on ſhore by the ſea. The Koraiks make their boats of the ſkins of ſea-animals, ſewed together [51] with whale's beards, and caulked with moſs, or nettles, beaten ſmall.

Theſe boats hold two perſons; one ſits in the prow, the other in the ſtern: they puſh, againſt the ſtream, with poles, but, when the current is ſtrong, this is ſo troubleſome, that they can ſcarcely advance two feet in ten minutes; notwithſtanding this, they will puſh theſe boats, full loaded, 15 miles, and even twice the diſtance, when the ſtream is not very ſtrong. The larger boats carry 30 or 40 puds; when goods are not heavy, they lay them on a float, or bridge, reſting on two boats, joined together.

The men paſs the greateſt part of their time in de⯑bauchery and idleneſs. If they purſue any employ⯑ment; it is hunting, fiſhing, and looking a little after their houſhold affairs. The chace furniſhes them with game, but is always attended with danger. They are expert fiſhers, and are well acquainted with all the pro⯑per ſeaſons for it. Their nets are made with nettle-flax. At times, the men are alſo employed in build⯑ing huts, forming different utenſils, and making bows and arrows. They cut graſs for mats; and, contrary to the cuſtom of all other nations, the buſineſs of the kitchen belongs to the men; and they aſſiſt each other, not from ſelfiſh motives, but from friendſhip. Bears they kill chiefly with a gun; and, there is ſuch a na⯑tural affection in theſe animals, that, if they fire at a [52] young cub, when the mother is near, and the cub drops, the dam will become enraged to a degree little ſhort of madneſs, and, if ſhe gets ſight of her enemy, will only quit her revenge with her life. They never, therefore, fire at a cub, if its mother be near. If the dam be ſhot, the cub will not leave her ſide, even after ſhe has been dead a long time; but continue about her, ſhew⯑ing, by a variety of affecting actions and geſtures, marks of the deepeſt affliction; and thus become an eaſy prey to the hunters.

Nor is their ſagacity leſs extraordinary. In order to catch the bareens, which are too ſwift of foot for them, they will have recourſe to the following ſtratagem. Theſe animals keep together in large herds, frequent⯑ing moſtly the low grounds, and browſing at the feet of rocks and precipices. The bear hunts them by ſcent, till in ſight, when he advances warily, keeping above them, and concealing himſelf among the rocks, as he makes his approaches, till he gets immediately over them, and nigh enough for his purpoſe. He then be⯑gins to puſh down, with his paws, pieces of the rock, among the herd below; and, when he finds he has wounded one, ſo as not to be able to eſcape, he purſues him, overtakes, and devours him.

From this digreſſion, I will proceed to the employ⯑ment of women; which is, in tanning, converting net⯑tles into thread, mats and baſkets, drying fiſh, and pre⯑paring [53] iſinglaſs, roots and berries. To tan ſkins, they ſcrape off the hair, rub it with fat and fiſh-roe, and ſqueeze it in, by twiſting it in their arms. They make ſhammoy leather of rein-deer ſkins, by fermenting it with the bark of the alder-tree, and a decoction of the ſame bark. The Kamtſchadale women are excellent ſempſtreſſes, and embroider admirably with nettle-thread, and the tendons of animals. The women look alſo after the rein-deer and dogs. Women alſo are the only taylors, and ſhoe-makers; it is a diſgrace for the men to do any thing of the kind. They are alſo employed in dying ſkins, in comforting, and curing the ſick.

CHAP. III. Of their manners, cuſtoms, genius, &c.

THOUGH the Kamtſchadales imitate the Ruſ⯑ſians in a great degree, they have, as I ſaid, a number of cuſtoms peculiar to themſelves. They ſleep quite naked, on mats, and their outer garments, cover⯑ing themſelves with their cloaths. They are a dirty, lazy people; and, ſo careleſs, that they often find them⯑ſelves expoſed to the moſt extreme indigence. They eat out of the ſame veſſels with their dogs, and without cleaning them. They are commonly covered with [54] vermin; and, like the Tunguſe, amuſe themſelves with catching and eating them. They let their nails grow to their natural length, which are always full of naſti⯑neſs. Beſides painting of themſelves, the women en⯑deavour to add to their beauty, by plaſtering on their faces, the thin cawl, or ſkin, which covers the entrails of the bear. Some of theſe ladies affect a modeſty, wear veils, and turn away their eyes from ſtrange men. Thoſe that have not natural hair ſufficient, wear falſe locks; and they will often put on to the amount of ten pounds weight, ſo that their heads ſhall look like a hay-cock.

They have a lively imagination, a ſtrong memory, and ſuch a genius for imitation, that they copy, with eaſe, whatever they ſee. Their ſongs and tales are full of wit and pleaſantry; they are great mimics, take off the way of ſpeaking, and motions of ſtrangers, and turn them into ridicule. They pay little regard to the cuſtoms of their anceſtors; but, when they change, it is generally for the worſe, and are more apt to follow bad examples than good. They ſeldom give themſelves the trouble to reflect; and forget their faults too ſoon to improve the future regulation of their conduct, for which they have no manner of concern. Their curi⯑oſity is unbounded; inſomuch, that dreams are matters of ſuch moment, as to claim all their attention. Love is their predominant paſſion, and good-nature, their chief characteriſtic. Theſe form a ſtrange contraſt to [55] their negligence and inſenſibility, which makes them not only indifferent to the pleaſures of life, but even to life itſelf. Poverty gives them no concern; and nothing but hunger can call them to the chace; and then they ſeldom go ſo far, but they can return, at night, to the arms of their women. They care not how their food is dreſſed, ſo they have enough to fill their bellies; nor of what quality their liquor is of, ſo as it does but intox⯑icate: in ſhort, they are given to ſenſuality. They talk, with regret, of the happy times of their anceſtors; who could walk up to the ancles, in the overflowing of a drunken debauch; whilſt, in their days, they can ſcarcely wet the ſoles of their feet. Their immoderate luſt proceeds even to beſtiality; and the men, con⯑trary to the cuſtom of other Eaſtern nations, make themſelves the voluntary ſlaves of the women, to gra⯑tify their laſcivious deſires, Pederaſty is practiſed al⯑moſt publicly. The women too, are as much addicted to a profligate libertiniſm, as the men; and not only indulge with their own nation, and expect ſuch a return for every ſervice they do to ſtrangers, but alſo purſue unnatural means, to gratify their paſſions. Steller, who was among them a long time, attributes this inſa⯑tiable luſt, to their daily uſe of half-rotten fiſh, fiſh-roe, rancid fat and onions; but, eſpecially, to their exceſſive indolence.

They are remarkable for their cowardice, boaſting, and ſlaviſhneſs to people who uſe them hard; and, for [56] their obſtinacy, and contempt, of thoſe who treat them with gentleneſs.

They have a very confuſed notion of honour and ſhame. Kind treatment has no effect upon them; therefore, to render them more civilized, leſs knaviſh, and more ſerviceable than they naturally are, they muſt be treated with ſeverity. Pleaſure and inaction are their only objects; of courſe, they ſteal nothing but women and dogs, which formerly were the con⯑tinual cauſes of national war. They are cowardly, and baſe, to an extreme; gratifying their revenge, only by the darkeſt and moſt ſecret means. The leaſt ap⯑prehenſion of danger, drives them to deſpair; and, as they have no hope of futurity, they fly to ſuicide as a relief, not only from preſent, but even from imaginary, evil. Not only thoſe who are confined for offences, but ſuch as are diſcontented with their lot, prefer a voluntary death to an uneaſy life, and the pains of diſeaſe. The ancient people of the north, ſays Aelian, uſed to kill men, when they became, through old age, a burthen to themſelves and ſociety; and children will ſtrangle their aged parents, at their own requeſt, as do the Eſkimaux Indians, which we have ſeen. But the Kamtſchadales will diſpatch themſelves, when any diſ⯑eaſe has rendered them infirm. They want courage to bear great pain, and always ſeek relief in ſuicide. If a woman brings forth twins, they commonly kill one of them (and, perhaps, throw them to their dogs); like⯑wiſe [57] every weak child, and ſuch as are born with any defect. If a woman finds her pregnancy an incon⯑venience to her, ſhe endeavours to effect a miſcar⯑riage, that ſhe may more eaſily renew the indulgence of her deſires. The ſick, and malefactors, meet the moſt terrible death, without any emotion.

In their ſocial life, the men ſecure the affections of the women, by rough and free careſſes, by little aſſi⯑duities, and by acts of ſubmiſſion and obedience. But the men, among themſelves, take no manner of notice of one another, either by bowing, ſhaking hands, or other ſalutations. Their abuſive words are, Koſcha, Koaughwitſch, Kana, Kaiktſchitſch; that is, dog, hanged villain, devil; and accuſations of prepoſterous luſts.

Their diverſions conſiſt of feaſts, at which they eat and drink, ſing, whiſtle through a pipe made of a cab⯑bage-ſtalk, dance, and tell ſtories. Singing is the moſt favourite amuſement of the women. Their voices are agreeable, and their ſongs are either national, or com⯑poſed extempore. The exploits of their gods, and he⯑roes, and the adventures which their anceſtors, and themſelves, have met with in hunting, are the ſubjects of their tales, and fabulous ſtories; and their dances, like thoſe of the Eaſtjaiks, are pantomimic. Their bear-dance, is an exact counterpart of every attitude and geſture, peculiar to this animal, through its various [58] poſitions; and this is the foundation, and ground-work, of all their other dances.

As ſoon as the ceremony is over, he is at liberty, next night, to go to her bed; and, the day following, carries her off to his own village. After ſome time, the bride and bridegroom, return to the bride's rela⯑tions, where the marriage-feaſt is celebrated in the fol⯑lowing manner, of which the writer of this account was an eye-witneſs, in 1739.

The bridegroom, his friends, and wife, viſited the father-in-law, in three boats. All the women were in the boats, and the men, being naked, puſhed them along with poles. About one hundred paces from the village, to which they were going, they landed, began to ſing, and uſed conjurations, with tow faſtened in a rod, muttering ſomething over a dried fiſh's head, [60] which they wrapped in the tow, and gave to an old woman to hold. The conjuration being over, they put on the bride a ſheep-ſkin coat, and tied four images about her. Thus loaded, ſhe had ſome difficulty to move. They then returned to their boats, and came up to the village, where they landed, a ſecond time; at this landing-place, a boy of the village met them, and taking the bride by the hand, led her along, all the women following.

When the bride came to the hut, they tied a ſtrap round her, by which ſhe was let down the ladder, the old woman who carried the fiſh's head, going before her. This head, ſhe laid down at the foot of the lad⯑der, where it was trodden on by the bride and bride⯑groom, and all the people preſent, and then thrown into the fire.

All the ſtrangers took their places, having firſt ſtripped the bride of her ſuperfluous ornaments. The bride⯑groom heated the hut, dreſſed the victuals, which they had brought with them, and entertained the inhabitants of the village. The next day, the maſter of the hut entertained the ſtrangers, winh great abundance, who at the third day departed; the bride and bridegroom remaining to work ſome time with their father. The ſuperfluous parts of the bride's dreſs were diſtributed among her relations, who were obliged to return her preſents of far greater value.

[61]Theſe ceremonies only relate to a firſt marriage; for, in the marriage of a widow, the man and woman's agreement is ſufficient, but he muſt not take her to himſelf, before her ſins are taken away. This can only be done by ſome ſtranger's lying with her once; but as this taking off of ſin is conſidered by the Kamtſcha⯑dales as very diſhonourable for the man, it was formerly difficult to find one to undertake it; ſo that the poor widows were at a great loſs, befure the Ruſſians came amongſt them, ſince which, they have been at no great want of ſtrangers, to take away their ſins.

Marriage is forbidden only between father and daugh⯑ter, mother and ſon; a ſon-in-law may marry his mo⯑ther-in-law, and a father-in-law his daughter-in-law, and firſt couſins marry frequently. Their divorce is eaſy, conſiſting only in ſeparating beds. In ſuch caſe, the man immediately marries again; and the woman accepts another huſband, without any further ce⯑remony.

A Kamtſchadale has two or three wives, with whom he ſleeps by turns. Sometimes he keeps them all in one hut, and ſometimes in different ones. With every maid he marries, he is obliged to to go through the above-mentioned ceremonies. Though theſe peo⯑ple are fond of women, they are not ſo jealous as the Koraiks. Nor are the women more jealous; for, even their wives, will live with one huſband in great [62] harmony, even though he ſhould alſo keep con⯑cubines.

Like the Braſilians, and Americans, and the ancient Thracians, they ſet no great value on the virginity of their brides; and hence proceeds the generoſity with which the Kamtſchadale girls beſtow their favours on the Ruſſians, having no reaſon to fear any reproaches on this head from their future huſbands. The Koſſacks, and ſoldiers of the garriſons, had formerly little ſera⯑glios at their ſervice.

Though many women do all they can to diſqualify themſelves from breeding, there are ſome who ar⯑dently wiſh to be mothers, and, to that end, uſe ſuper⯑ſtitious means. Some ſwallow ſpiders; others, call in the aid of magicians, who perform a great many ridi⯑culous ceremonies to render them fruitful. The women are not very fruitful: they have, commonly, very eaſy births; for, in a quarter of an hour afterwards, they will appear abroad, about their ordinary buſineſs, and without any change of countenance. They have no profeſſed midwives; the mother, or neareſt relation, performing the office. Some friend, who calls in to ſee them, gives a name to the child, the moſt common of which are, Roſko, Pickengour, Aphaka. They have a very tender, but ill-directed affection for their children; who, ſo far from being obedient to them, treat them with harſhneſs and cruelty.

[63]The Kamtſchadales are, in general, ſtrong and healthy. Some of them are maimed, from accidents in travelling, or falling from high rocks. The ſcurvy, abſceſſes, foul humours, the venereal diſeaſe, pleuriſy, mortifications, jaundice, and inflammations of the eyes, are their common diſorders. For the ſcurvy, they eat wild berries, and raw fiſh. The venereal diſeaſe was among them, before the arrival of the Ruſſians. Inflamed eyes proceeds from the dazzling whiteneſs of the ſnow. They formerly inoculated their children for the ſmall-pox, by ſcratching the face with a fiſh-bone, dipped in variolous matter; but, as this diſtemper has made no appearance for a number of years, they dropped this ſalutary practice, when, in 1758, it was unluckily brought there by a ſoldier, who had a long time been cured of it; and, this ſcourge of the human race, then raged ſo dreadfully, as to ſweep away two-thirds of the nation.

Theſe diſeaſes, they think are inflicted upon them by the ſpirits that inhabit particular groves, if they ig⯑norantly happen to cut down a tree there. Their chief remedies conſiſt in charms and conjurations, though they neglect not more ſpecific remedies. They very thankfully acknowledge, that they owe the little ad⯑vancement they have made in phyſic and ſurgery to the bears; that, by remarking with what herbs theſe animals rub the wounds they receive, and what they have recourſe to when ſick and languid, they have [64] become acquainted with moſt of the ſimples in uſe among them.

When bitten, by a dog, or a wolf, they lay the bruiſed leaves of the Ulmaria upon the wound, drinking a decoction of them at the ſame time. The leaves and ſtalks, pounded, they uſe in bruiſes; and uſe the de⯑coction for the belly-ach, tooth-ach, and ſcurvy. In the jaundice, they take the roots of the Iris ſylveſtris, clean them, beat them in warm water, ſqueeze out the juice, and uſe it as a clyſter, two or three times a-day; this purges and relieves. If, after ſome time, it does not cure, they repeat it. They let blood, by raiſing the ſkin, with wooden pincers, and piercing it with a chryſtal lancet. In pains of the back, they rub the part afflicted, before a fire, with the root of cicuta, being careful not to touch the loins, which, they ſay, would occaſion ſpaſms. In pains of the joints, they place a pyramid of birch fungus over it, ſet it on fire, and let it burn till it comes to the ſkin, which then cracks, and leaves a wound that diſcharges a good deal of matter. The root of the anemonides, or ranunculus, is made uſe of to poiſon their enemies; and they, alſo, poiſon their arrows with it.

Inſtead of burying their dead, they bind a ſtrap round the neck of the corpſe, draw it out, and leave it near the hut, to be devoured by their dogs; under a notion that, ſuch as are eaten by dogs, will drive with [65] fine dogs in the other world; and, by leaving them near the hut, they ſuppoſe thoſe evil ſpirits, whom they imagine were the cauſe of its death, ſeeing the dead body, may be ſatisfied with the miſchief they have done. However, they generally remove to ſome other place, when any one has died in the hut, and leave the body in it.

All the cloaths of the deceaſed, they throw away; from an opinion, that any one wearing them, will come to an untimely end. After the deceaſe of any one, they uſe the following purification: going to the wood, they cut a few rods, of which they make a ring, and creeping through it twice, they carry it to the wood, and throw it towards the wood. Thoſe who dragged out the body, are obliged to catch two birds, of ſome ſort or other, one of which they burn, and eat the other with the whole family. This purification is performed on the ſame day; for, before this, they dare not enter any one's hut, but their own; nor will any one enter theirs. In commemoration of the dead, the whole fa⯑mily dines upon a fiſh; the fins of which they burn in the fire.

CHAP. IV. Of their learning, language, religion, government, trade, &c.

THE Kamtſchadales have no knowledge, but what they acquire in their narrow circle of life, and in purſuance of the impulſes of nature. They have neither letters, nor hieroglyphics. Their language is national and peculiar; though inclining to that of the Mongols; and, as it adopts no foreign term, is very difficult to learn. They endeavour to give every thing ſuch a name, as will expreſs the property of it; but if they do not underſtand the thing thoroughly them⯑ſelves, they take a name from ſome foreign language, which, perhaps, has no relation to the thing itſelf. Thus, for example, they call a prieſt, Bogbog; becauſe, probably, they heard him uſe the word bog-bog, God. Bread, they call Brighſatin Augſh, that is, Ruſſian root.

Probably, the Kamtſchadales, and the Mongols, might formerly have been one and the ſame people; for, as the Chineſe Mongols have, ſo have the Kamtſcha⯑dales, many words ending in ong, ing, ſang, chin, cha, ching, kſi, and kſung.

They are ignorant of the cauſes of eclipſes; but, when they happen, they carry fire out of their huts, and pray the luminary eclipſed, to ſhine as before. [67] They know only three conſtellations; viz. the Great Bear, the Pleiades, and the three ſtars in Orion. They count by tens, and are ſuch poor arithmeticians, that they cannot arrive at that number, without uſing their fingers.

It is very diverting to ſee them attempt to count above ten; for, having reckoned the fingers of both hands, they claſp them together, which ſignifies ten; then, they begin with their toes, and count to 20; after which, they are confounded, and cry, Metcha? that is, "Where ſhall I take more?" They reckon ten months in the year, ſome longer, and ſome ſhorter; and divide them, by the order of particular occur⯑rences; as the month, Koakouaiſch, is, that when the cuckoo is firſt heard, and ſo on. They divide our year into two; ſo that winter is one year, and ſummer an⯑other. The ſummer-year begins in May; and the winter, in November. They do not diſtinguiſh the days by any particular appellation, nor form them into weeks, or months; but mark their epochs, by ſome one moveable event; as the raging of the ſmall pox, the arrival of the Ruſſians, the great rebellion, and the like.

Like all other barbarous nations, the Kamtſchadales have no notions of a Deity; but what are abſurd, ri⯑diculous, and ſhocking to a humanized mind. Their ancient, national religion, is Schamaniſm; their idolatrous [68] worſhip, like that of the Jakutes. They call their god, Kutchu, but pay him no religious worſhip; and, the only uſe they make of his name, is to divert themſelves with it; they relate ſuch ſcandalous ſtories of him, as one would be aſhamed to repeat. Among other things, they reproach him with having made ſo many ſteep hills, ſo many ſmall and rapid rivers, ſo much rain, and ſo many ſtorms; and, in all their troubles, they up⯑braid and blaſpheme him. However, they celebrate always three days in the month of November, hence called, the month of purification, after their ſummer, or harveſt-labour, is over. They conſider it as a ſin, to do any work, or make any viſits, before theſe holi⯑days; the breach of which they never ſuffer to paſs, without expiation. From hence, we may ſee, that the anceſtors of theſe people, were accuſtomed to offer up the firſt-fruits of their ſummer-labours to God; and, at the ſame time, make merry with one another. Their ceremonies, in the celebration of their holidays, are ſilly to the extreme, and conſiſt of many ridiculous antics.

They erect a pillar on a large wide plain, which they bind round with rags. Whenever they paſs this pillar, they throw a piece of fiſh, or ſome other victuals, at it, and near it never gather any berries, or kill any beaſt, or bird. This offering, they think, preſerves their lives, which, otherwiſe, would be ſhortened; however, they offer nothing of any uſe to themſelves; only the [69] fins and tails of fiſh, or ſuch things as they would be obliged to throw away. In this all the people of Aſia agree, offering, to their idols, only ſuch things as are uſeleſs to themſelves. Beſides theſe pillars, ſeveral other places are eſteemed ſacred; ſuch as burning and ſmoking mountains, hot ſprings, and ſome particular woods, which they imagine are inhabited by devils, the chief of whom they call, Kanna. The world, they be⯑lieve, is eternal, and the ſoul immortal; and, that it ſhall be again joined to the body, and live eternally, ſubject to fatigues and troubles, as in this preſent life; with this difference only, that they ſhall have greater plenty of every neceſſary. Even the ſmalleſt animal, they imagine, will riſe again, and dwell under the earth. They conceive the earth to be flat, and that, under it, there is a firmament, like ours; and, under that firmament, another earth, in which, when we have ſummer, they have winter, and, when we have winter, they have ſummer. With regard to future rewards and puniſhments, they believe, that, in the other world, the rich will be poor, and the poor rich.

Their notions of vice and virtue are equally extra⯑vagant. They believe every thing lawful that gra⯑tifies their paſſions; and conceive, that only to be a ſin, from which they apprehend danger and ruin: ſo that, they neither reckon murder, ſelf-murder, adultery, oppreſſion, or the like, any wickedneſs; on the con⯑trary, they look on it as a mortal ſin, to ſave any one [70] that is drowning; becauſe, according to their notions, who ever ſaves him, will be ſoon drowned himſelf. They account it alſo a ſin, to bathe in, or drink hot water; or to go up to the burning mountains. They have, beſides theſe, innumerable, abſurd cuſtoms; ſuch as, ſcraping the ſnow from their feet with a knife, or whetting their hatchets upon the road. It may, how⯑ever, be ſaid, that they are not the only people who have ridiculous ſuperſtitions.

Beſides the above-mentioned gods, they pay a reli⯑gious regard to ſeveral animals, from whom they ap⯑prehend danger. They often fire at the holes of ſables and foxes. When fiſhing, they intreat the whales, or ſea-horſes, not to overturn their boats; and, in hunt⯑ing, beſeech the bears and wolves not to hurt them.

They fill almoſt every place in heaven and earth, with different ſpirits; and offer them ſacrifices, upon every occaſion. Some carry little idols about them, or fix them up in their huts; but, with regard to God, they not only neglect, as I have ſaid, to worſhip him, but, in caſe of troubles and misfortunes, curſe and blaſpheme him.

Every old woman is looked on as a witch, and an interpreter of dreams; and there are magicians, who pretend to conjure, and are called, Guiſpahas. In their conjurations, they whiſper to the fins of fiſh, and ſome [71] other things; by which they think to cure diſeaſes, avert misfortunes, and foretell futurity. They are, in general, great obſervers of dreams, which they relate to each other in the morning, as ſoon as they awake; judging, from thence, of their future good, or bad fortune; and ſome of theſe dreams have their inter⯑pretations fixed and ſettled. Beſides this, they pretend to chiromancy, and to foretel a man's fate, by the lines of his hand.

All this ignorance, and ſuperſtition, will, however, be ſoon rooted out from among them. Their ſtrong bent to imitation, has led them to embrace chriſtianity; ſo that, at preſent, there are few who are not con⯑verted. Chapels of worſhip are built in almoſt every village, and ſchools erected, to which the Kamtſchadales ſend their children, with great pleaſure. But, as the people neither fear, nor love God, and the very idea of a Providence appearing to them ridiculous, they make no better chriſtians than they were idolaters; all their actions concentering in ſenſuality, and having no con⯑ception of a paradiſe, deſtitute of an indulgence of their preſent deſires. The ſchools, however, will teach their riſing generation better principles; there is little doubt, but the chriſtian religion, being there tranſ⯑planted, will riſe and flouriſh in that remote corner of the world, as it hath done in more ſouthern climes.

[72]What ſhall be ſaid of their government? Their ſo⯑cieties are diſtributed into families: each family has a ſeparate oſtroſchok, or hamlet, conſiſting of a few ſmall houſes, and ſituated, in general, near ſome river. When a young man marries, he removes into the hamlet to which his wife belongs. When a village becomes too populous, they ſeparate, and form a new village, but always on the ſame river. The oldeſt of theſe vil⯑lages, the ſtock of collateral hamlets, enjoys ſome pre⯑rogatives, as pretending to have been the abode of one of the ſons of the founder of the Kamtſchadale nation, who muſt be a deſcendant of their god, Kutchu. They pay a deference to old men of the villages; but their authority is very circumſcribed. They have no pu⯑niſhment, but for theft, and murder. The fingers of a thief are burnt, that he may be known and deteſted; a murderer is delivered into the hands of thoſe whom he has injured, who may, and often do, make him ſuffer the moſt cruel torments.

Formerly, whole villages were often in a ſtate of warfare; which aroſe from their frequent attempts to carry off the women from one another's hamlet; and, though they had no ambition of encreaſing their power, or enlarging their territories, before the Ruſſian con⯑queſt, they had ſuch frequent quarrels, that ſeldom a year paſſed, without one village, or other, being en⯑tirely ruined.

[73]Their wars were carried on, more by ſtratagem than bravery; for, being naturally cowards, they never at⯑tack but from neceſſity. Their ſelf-murder ariſes more from fear of encountering misfortunes, than daring to die. When they do attack, it is in this manner: they ſteal into the enemy's village by night, and ſurpriſe them; which is eaſily done, as they keep no watch. Thus a ſmall party may deſtroy a large village; hav⯑ing nothing more to do, than to ſecure the mouth of a hut, ſuffer none to come out but one at a time, and, of courſe, knock down that one, or oblige him to ſub⯑mit and be bound. In their former wars with the Koraiks, when a village was blockaded, and they had no hope of diſlodging the enemy, it was common for the men, firſt to kill all the women in the place, and then themſelves; knowing, that were they to ſurrender, they would not meet a better fate. The bow and ar⯑row, the pike, and the club, were all their offenſive and defenſive arms. Their quivers are made of the larch-wood, glued round with birch-bark; their bow-ſtrings, of the blood-veſſels of the whale: their arrows are about four feet long, pointed with bone, and are very dangerous, being all poiſoned; ſo that a perſon wounded by them, generally dies in 24 hours, unleſs the poiſon is ſucked out. They have alſo coats of mail, made of mats, or ſeal-ſkin, cut into thongs, and plaited together. Theſe are worn on the left ſide, tied, with thongs, upon the right. Behind, is fixed a high board, to defend their heads; and another before, to guard the heart.

[74]It is remarkable, that when they march, two never go a-breaſt, but follow each other in the ſame path; which, by uſe, becomes very deep and narrow; ſo that, it is impoſſible for one that is not uſed to it, to walk therein, for they always ſet one foot ſtrait before the other, in walking.

Their conſtant hoſtilities furniſhed opportunities of aſpiring to the dignity of Toyons, or chiefs of parties; but their preſent ſituation has made a change; the po⯑litical relation in which they ſtand, is almoſt the ſame with that of the other Siberians. They have Ruſſian overſeers; and are obliged to give hoſtages, for greater ſecurity. Every tributary-male muſt furniſh a ſable-ſkin, or ſome other, of equal value. The Ruſſians have divided them, according to the oſtrogs, where they pay their tribute; and, according to this diviſion, there are about 3000 natives, including men, women, and children; but were the number three times as great, the inhabitants would be but few, for ſuch an extent of ground; and ſtill fewer, if we conſider, that, in the moſt northern oſtrogs, the Koraiks, belonging to them, are included in the number.

The Ruſſians have five forts in this country; and near the ſame number at Ingiga, which, though to the north of the peninſula, are under the governor of Kamt⯑ſchatka. In theſe ſorts, are about four hundred Ruſſians and Coſſacks; and, beſides this, there are ſome few [75] Ruſſian traders, emigrants and exiles. In ſome of the oſtrogs, or hamlets, are but 20 or 30 natives. Captain King paſſed four extenſive oſtrogs, and did not find a ſingle inhabitant in them; ſo thinly are they ſcattered: ſo that, in the preſent, diminiſhed ſtate of the natives, with freſh ſupplies of Ruſſians and Coſſacks perpetually, pouring in and intermixing with the natives by mar⯑riage, it is probable, that in leſs than half a century, there will be very few of them left.

The governor of this country, in 1779, reſigned that command the ſame year, and left the place; and was ſucceeded by Captain Shmaleff. The Ruſſian govern⯑ment is here mild and equitable, but a military one. The natives are permitted to chuſe their own ma⯑giſtrates, from among themſelves; in the way, and with the ſame power, they ever had. One of theſe, under the title of Toyon, preſides over each oſtrog, and is the referee in all differences; impoſes fines, and in⯑flicts puniſhments, for all crimes. This Toyon has the appointment of an officer, to aſſiſt him, and act under him.

By an edict of the preſent Empreſs, no crime what⯑ever can be puniſhed with death; but, in caſes of mur⯑der, the puniſhment of the knout is inflicted, with ſuch ſeverity, that the offender generally dies under it. The Greek religion is here introduced, and miſſion⯑aries ſettled.

[76]It is to this place, that many criminals are tranſported, from different parts of the empire; and, without doubt, it is the moſt horrid place of exile of all the vaſt em⯑pire of Ruſſia. Captain King met there with a cele⯑brated exile, the Hoſpodin Ivaſkin; a gentleman of a conſiderable family in Ruſſia. His father was a general in the Empreſs's ſervice; and he, himſelf, having re⯑ceived his education partly in France, and partly in Germany, had been page to the empreſs Elizabeth, and an enſign in her guards. At the age of 16 he was knouted, had his noſe ſlit, and was baniſhed, firſt to Siberia, and afterwards to Kamtſchatka, where he had now lived 31 years. He was a very tall, thin man, with a face furrowed all over with deep wrinkles, and bore, in his whole figure, the ſtrongeſt marks of old age, though he had ſcarcely reached his 54th year. No one ever knew the cauſe of his baniſhment; but they took it for granted, that it muſt have been for ſome⯑thing very notorious, particularly as two or three go⯑vernors of Kamtſchatka have endeavoured to get him recalled, ſince the preſent Empreſs's reign; but, far from ſucceeding in this, they have not been able to get the place of his baniſhment changed. He told Captain King, that, for 20 years, he had not taſted bread, nor had been allowed ſubſiſtence of any kind whatever; but that, during this period, he had lived among the Kamtſchadales, on what his own activity, and toil, in the chace, had furniſhed; that, afterwards, he had a ſmall penſion granted; and that, ſince Major Behm was [77] governor, his ſituation had been mended: that he had procured his penſion to be encreaſed to 100 rubles yearly, which is half the pay of an enſign, in this place. This gentleman had forgotten both the French and German, ſo totally, as not to underſtand what was ſaid to him, in either of theſe languages.

The trade of this country, formerly, was confined to procuring the neceſſaries of life; bartering with the Koraiks for ſables, fox and white dog-ſkins, for deer-ſkins, cloaths, and other hides. It is a cuſtom here, among the natives, that, when one wants a thing an⯑other has, he goes freely to viſit him, makes known his wants, and, though a ſtranger, the other will ac⯑commodate him.

The commerce with the Ruſſians, as far as con⯑cerns the exports, is entirely confined to furs, and car⯑ried on by a company of merchants, inſtituted by the preſent Empreſs. Theſe are bought with money; ſo that there is a great circulation of ſpecie in the country. Articles of importation are, European manufactures, Engliſh, Dutch, Siberian, and Chineſe. They conſiſt of coarſe woollen and linen cloths, yarn ſtockings, bon⯑nets, and gloves; thin Perſian ſilks, cottons, Nankeens, ſilk and cotton handkerchiefs; braſs, coppers, and pans; iron ſtoves, files, guns and gun-powder, hardware, ſuch as hatchets, bills, knives, &c. looking-glaſſes, flour, ſugar, leather boots, &c. and theſe ſell for treble the [78] price they might have been bought for in England: and, though the merchants have ſo large a profit on theſe imported goods, they have ſtill a larger on the furs at Kiachta, on the frontiers of China, which is the great market for them. The beſt ſea-otter ſkins ſell gene⯑rally in Kamtſchatka, for about 30 rubles each; a ruble about 4s. 6d. Engliſh. The Chineſe merchants at Kiachta purchaſe them at more than double that price, and ſell them again at Peking, at a great advance; where a farther, profitable trade is made with ſome of them, at Japan. If, therefore, a ſkin is worth 30 ru⯑bles at Kamtſchatka, to be firſt tranſported to Okotſk, thence to be conveyed, by land, to Kiachta, a diſtance of 1,364 miles; thence on to Peking, 760 miles more; and, after this, to be tranſported to Japan; what a prodigious advantageous trade might be carried on, between Kamtſchatka and Japan, which is but a fort⯑night's, or, at moſt, three weeks ſail from it?

The duties ariſing from the exports and imports, amount, annually, to about 10,000 rubles. There are ſix veſſels, of 40 to 50 tons burthen, employed by the Empreſs, between Okotſk and Bolchereſk, two ports in Kamtſchatka, in tranſporting ſtores and proviſions. Beſides theſe, there are about 14 veſſels, employed by the merchants in the fur-trade, among the Eaſtern iſlands, where the trade is chiefly carried on. Indeed, the whole ſea, between Kamtſchatka and America, is covered with iſlands.

CHAP. I. Of the Country, Climate, and Productions.

THE country compriſed under the name of Ruſſia, or the Ruſſias, is of greater extent than all the reſt of Europe; or, than was the Roman em⯑pire, in the zenith of its power. It ſtretches from the Baltic, and Sweden, on the weſt, beyond Kamtſchatka, and the Oriental Iſles, 5,000 miles, and upwards, eaſt⯑ward, to the moſt weſtern ſhore of the American con⯑tinent; which, as I have already obſerved, is divided from the eaſtern coaſt of Siberia, by a ſtreight of only 13 leagues in breadth. On the north, it is bounded by the Frozen Ocean; and extends, on the ſouth-eaſt, to China and Perſia. The greateſt part of this em⯑pire lies in Aſia; of this, we have already treated; I ſhall, therefore, confine myſelf now to that part which lies in Europe.

Little Ruſſia then extends from the 47th degree of north-latitude, to the 70th, or further north, but is ſcarce habitable nearer the pole; and, from the 21ſt degree of longitude to the 70th, reckoning from the meridian of London. In the ſouthern provinces, the longeſt day does not exceed fifteen hours and a half; whereas, in the moſt northern, the ſun does not ſet, in ſummer-time, for the ſpace of two months together; and here, during the winter, which generally continues [130] ſeven months, the whole country is covered with ſnow, a yard or two deep, and the rivers are all frozen up. It is natural to ſuppoſe, therefore, that where the cli⯑mate is ſo various, there muſt be as great a diverſity of ſoil.

Dr. King, who reſided eleven years in Ruſſia, ſays, that the cold, at Peterſburgh, which is in the latitude of 60°, is, during the months of December, January, and February, uſually, by Fahrenheit's thermometer, from eight to 15, and 20 degrees below 0; that is, from 40 to 52 degrees below the freezing point; that the inhabitants have very little comfort in their winter-days, and ſpend moſt of their time by the fire-ſide; for, though the ſun may be a little above the horizon, for [...]wo or three hours, it is ſeldom ſeen, on account of the thick fogs, which ſo darken the air, that it may be rather called dawn, than day-light. The cold weather begins in Auguſt; and, every one is wrapped in furs till May following. The ice, in their rivers, is a yard thick. It is difficult, ſays Dr. King, for an inhabitant of a temperate clime, to have any idea of their cold. When a perſon walks out, in winter, the cold makes the eyes water; and, that water, freezes on the eye-laſhes, ſo as to hang in iſicles. Theſe iſicles may be ſeen hanging at the chin of their peaſants, who wear their beards, like a lump of ice; but, even in this ſtate, the icy beard defends the glands of the throat, which the ſoldiers, who wear no beards, are obliged to [131] guard, by tying a handkerchief under the chin. All the parts of the face are liable to be frozen, though the perſon ſo frozen is not himſelf ſenſible of it; but is commonly appriſed of it by thoſe who meet him, and adviſed to rub his face with ſnow, which is their mode of thawing it, for the part frozen always turns white; ſhould this be omitted, and the perſon ſo frozen pproach a fire, or dip his ears, noſe, or chin, in warm water, the frozen part will inſtantly mortify, and drop off. In ſevere winters, birds have been ſo be⯑numbed, as to be unable to fly; and carters ſitting in their loaded carriages, have been found frozen to death. When the thermometer has been at 25 degrees below 0, boiling water thrown up into the air, and ſpread by an engine, has fallen to the ground in ice. But, notwith⯑ſtanding this ſeverity of the cold, the inhabitants have ſuch various means to guard againſt it, that they ſuffer much leſs from it, than might be expected. Mr. Coxe ſays, that, when he was there, in January, the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer, fell to 63 below the freez⯑ing point, and yet it did not detain him at home; he walked out, as uſual, with no other precaution than his peliſſe, fur-boots and cap; and, as the ſun ſhone bright, he found it by no means unpleaſant. The com⯑mon people continued at their work, as uſual; and the drivers plied in the ſtreets, with their ſledges, ſeem⯑ingly unaffected with the froſt; their beards were in⯑cruſted with ice, and the horſes covered with iſicles. The people did not, during this extreme cold, add to [132] their ordinary cloathing. They are careful to preſerve their extremities, by covering their legs, hands, and head, with fur; but leave their necks quite bare, and their breaſts only covered with a coarſe ſhirt. During this time, continues Mr. Coxe, many women were em⯑ployed in waſhing in the river, making holes in the ice with a hatchet, dipping their linen into the water with their bare hands, and beating it with flat ſticks. The ice formed again, almoſt as ſoon as they broke it; and, yet they would ſtand hours at this work—a proof that the human body may be brought to endure all extremes.

Coachmen and ſervants, waiting for their maſters, have been killed by the froſt: to guard, as much as poſſible, againſt this, great fires, of whole trees, piled up, are made, in the court yards of the palace, and moſt frequented parts of the town, to warm the air. The rain that falls in this country yearly, exceeds that which falls in England, in the proportion of 22 to 19.

Ruſſia is, in general, a flat country, except in the north. From Peterſburgh to Pekin in China, through Independant Tartary, ſcarce a mountain is to be ſeen; and, from Peterſburgh to the north of France, by Dantzic, Hamburgh, and Amſterdam, there is not the ſmalleſt hill.

[133]The moſt conſiderable rivers are, 1ſt, the Wolga, which, after traverſing the greateſt part of Muſcovy, in a courſe of 3000 miles, empties itſelf into the Caſpian ſea. It is, in moſt places, ſo ſhallow, that veſſels, drawing above five feet water, can ſcarcely float, except in flood-times, when the largeſt flat-bottomed veſſels, even car⯑rying 600 tuns, find ſufficient water. The ſtream, in common, does not run more than one mile an hour; but, in flood-time, it will run three miles. The water-men, who navigate this river, do it by warping. They have three boats to carry out theſe warps, which they take in forwards, and thus get on againſt the ſtream, when the wind is not with them, 30 miles a-day. Their barges are ſo large as to carry from 150 to 200 men. In all its long courſe, it has not a cataract to interrupt the navigation; and, by it, the city of Moſ⯑cow has a communication not only with all the ſouth⯑ern parts of Ruſſia, but even into Perſia, Georgia, Tartary, and all the countries bordering on the Caſ⯑pian ſea.

The Don is another great river; divides the eaſtern part of Ruſſia from Aſia; and, in its courſe eaſtwards, approaches ſo near the Wolga, that it was intended to cut a canal between the two; and it would have been done, but for the interruption of the Tartars. This river runs near 400 miles, and empties itſelf into the ſea of Aſoph. The Dnieper, which is likewiſe one of the largeſt rivers in Europe, has thirteen cataracts [134] within a ſmall diſtance; riſes [...]ar the ſource of the Wolga, in the foreſt of the Volkenſki (a foreſt of 150 mile in length, and that reaches almoſt to the gates of Moſcow), about 100 miles from Smolenſko; ſeparates the Ukraine from Poland, and diſcharges itſelf into the Black Sea. By the acquiſition of the province of Mohilef, it is included within the Ruſſian territories. The northern, and north-eaſtern provinces, are, in a manner, deſart; but, the reſt of the country abounds with foreſts.

The principal cities are, Peterſburgh, Moſcow, No⯑vogorod, Twer, Smolenſko, Kiova, Riga, Archangel, Caſan, and Aſtrachan. Of ſome of theſe I have already ſpoken.

Ruſſia being, for the moſt part, a level country, and extremely well watered by lakes and rivers, is abund⯑antly fruitful. The communication of one part of the empire with another, is laid open, by roads and navi⯑gable canals; ſo that, the northern parts, which wanted corn and fruits, ſo plentiful in the ſouth, are now ſup⯑plied with both. In the ſpring of the year, as ſoon as the ſnow is gone, which generally lies on the ground three months, the warm weather ſucceeds, every thing looks green, and the tulips, lilies of the valley, and many other fine flowers and herbs, ſpring up ſpontaneouſly, without culture; and vegetation is very quick, in all its branches. The ſhortneſs of the ſummer does not [135] allow the grain time to ripen well; but the peaſants contrive to dry it, in the following way: they conſtruct a wooden building, ſomething like the ſhell of a cot⯑tage, without windows; under this building is a large hollow, on which a fire being made, the new cut corn, in ear, is laid on the floor, till dry; after this, it is hung on frames, in the open air, and then threſhed. Paſtures and meadows are very prolific; but they have no fruits, except ſtrawberries and raſberries: as to the finer fruits, ſuch as pines, apricots, grapes, pears, and cherries, they cannot be obtained, but in hot-houſes. They have, however, excellent melons, pomegranates, and pines, from Aſtrachan. Grapes are brought, from Aſtrachan, to the Empreſs, every three days; a diſtance not leſs than 1500 miles. They are preſerved in ſand, and carried between two horſes, ſupported in the manner of a litter, and are 21 days on their journey.

The Ruſſes have a ſaying, That they are very rich in fiſh and bread; and, it may be added, they have good ſtore of horſes, cattle, and wild game. Proviſions are ſo cheap, that good beef may be bought for three farthings a pound; mutton and pork in proportion; and bread, at about one ſixth part of the uſual price in England. The broad-tailed ſheep are brought from Aſtrachan; and are, in flavour, ſomething like ve⯑niſon.

On account of the ſevere cold in this country, not only water-fowl, cranes, ſwans, ducks, geeſe, ſnipes, &c. [136] but almoſt all ſorts of land-birds, fly to the ſouthward, in winter, in infinite numbers; and back again in the ſpring, when the ſnow diſappears; which, in the lati⯑tude of Moſcow, is not till about the end of April.

Their horſes are not of a large breed; but, like thoſe of Scotland, hardy and ſerviceable; and are ſeldom ſhod, either in ſummer or winter. They have grey⯑hounds, but no hounds. Their wild beaſts are, bears, foxes, boars, elks, deer, wolves, wild horſes, and wild ſheep. Captain Perry ſays, he ate part of a wild ſheep, which was purſued into a river by a wolf, and he thought it more tender and palatable than tame mutton. They have, alſo, martens, ſables, ermines, and two kinds of hares, one of which turns white in the winter, and changes again in ſummer.

There is no country, in Europe, better ſtocked with bees; and their woods, accordingly, afford great plenty of honey; and the wealthy burn nothing but wax-candles. The woods, and gardens, about Moſcow, are full of ſinging-birds; but there being few in the neigh⯑bourhood of Peterſburgh, government purchaſed as many as came to ſix or ſeven hundred pounds, and let them fly into the woods about that capital, where, it is ſaid, they have multiplied exceedingly.

With reſpect to the mines of this country, they have been treated of fully, when deſcribing Tartary and Siberia.

CHAP. II. Of the People, and chief Cities.

NOTHING can be more erroneous, than the different accounts of the population of this em⯑pire. Voltaire tells us, that, by a liſt, taken in 1747, of all the males that paid the poll-tax, including boys and old men, the number amounted to near ſeven mil⯑lions; and, if we reckon three times this number, for females, and perſons not regiſtered, it will make about 20 millions; and, to theſe add, 350,000 ſoldiers, and 200,000 nobility and clergy, and foreigners, exempted from the poll-tax, and the number will be about 20 millions and a half; which, with the conquered Tar⯑tars, may be eſtimated at 24 millions. But Mr. Coxe, in a much better calculation, in 1764, thinks, they may ſurely be ſtated at near 23 millions.

The Ruſſians are, generally ſpeaking, a perſonable people, rather Dutch-built, and inclined to be cor⯑pulent; at leaſt, this is what they admire: they are hardy, vigorous, and patient of labour. Their com⯑plexions differ from thoſe of the Engliſh, or Scots; but the women think an addition of red paint, heightens their beauty. Their eye-ſight ſeems to be defective; perhaps owing to the ſnow. The army poſſeſs a great ſhare of paſſive and active valour; will live hard, and ſubmit to the ſtricteſt diſcipline. The temper of the [138] Ruſſians, however, has not been much admired: they are held to have good parts, but to be very deceitful, and not to have a proper ſenſe of ſhame. Captain Perry, who was ſome time in that country, in the beginning of the preſent century, ſays, that the foreigners there uſed to ſay, That if you wiſh to know whether a Ruſs is an honeſt man, look in the palm of his hand, and, if you don't find hair grow there, never truſt him. When they flatter and ſooth, and profeſs, with oaths and aſſe⯑verations, a great reſpect for you, be well upon your guard, for they mean to betray you; and ſo far are they wanting, continues he, in a ſenſe of ſhame, that they hold it a commendable quality, to be a ſharper; and ſay, that ſuch a man, underſtands the world, and will thrive: but, of an honeſt man, they ſay, Un cloup nemeit ſhiet; he is a blockhead, and knows not how to live. And, ſo little regard have they for their word, and ſo void of any notion of real honour, that they have not a word, in their language, to expreſs it. The czar, Peter, took a great deal of pains to inculcate proper principles into them; and they do not now, de⯑ſerve ſo ſevere a character. Mr. Coxe, who was there very lately, ſays, even the peaſants, in their common intercourſe, are remarkably polite to each other. They take off their caps at meeting, bow ceremoniouſly, and frequently and uſually exchange a ſalute. They ac⯑company their ordinary diſcourſe with much action, and innumerable geſtures; and are exceedingly ſervile in their expreſſions of deference to their ſuperiors. In [139] accoſting a perſon of conſequence, they proſtrate them⯑ſelves, and even touch the ground with their heads— a kind of eaſtern homage. They are greedy, however, of money; and almoſt always demand previous pay⯑ment, for any article they ſell; and they ſeem, in ge⯑neral, ſays Mr. Coxe, much inclined to thieving. It was found neceſſary to place a guard by the carriage, at night, where we ſtopped, or every article in it would have diſappeared before morning.

Among the better claſs of people, continues Mr. Coxe, nothing can exceed their hoſpitality. We could never pay a morning-viſit to any nobleman, without being detained to dinner. The principal perſons of diſtinction, keep open tables, and are highly obliged to perſons who reſort to them, without ceremony. Their tables are ſerved with great profuſion and taſte. They will, at the ſame time, have ſterlet (a kind of ſturgeon from the Wolga), veal from Archangel, mutton from Aſtrachan, beef from the Ukraine, and pheaſants from Hungary and Bohemia; and their common wines are, claret, burgundy, champaigne; and Engliſh beer, and porter, in perfection. Though they have adopted the delicacies of French cookery, they deſpiſe not the ſolid joints of the Engliſh. Before dinner, even in the houſes of perſons of the firſt diſtinction, a ſmall table is ſpread, in a corner of the drawing-room, covered with plates of caviare, dried and pickled herrings, ſmoked ham, or tongue, bread, butter and cheeſe; with bottles of dif⯑ferent [140] liqueurs; a little of which is generally taſted be⯑fore dinner. Their uſual hour of dining is three; their entertainments are regulated according to the French ceremonial; the wine being circulated, during meals; and, the diſhes are no ſooner removed, than the com⯑pany retire into another room, and are ſerved with coffee, gentlemen as well as ladies.

Drunkenneſs is ſo common among the lower claſs of people, that it is ſcarcely eſteemed a vice. Captain Perry ſays, that, if we ride through Moſcow on a holiday, we ſhall ſee both prieſts and people drunk upon the ground; and, if you go to help one up, he will ſay, by way of excuſe, It is holiday-time. Nay, he ſays further, that their women of quality are ſo little aſhamed of drinking to exceſs, that they will acknow⯑ledge their having been drunk, and return thanks to their friends who made them ſo. This was, however, near a century ago; Mr. Coxe ſays now, that, among perſons of rank, they never deviate from the ſtricteſt ſobriety.

Mr. Wraxall tells us (and he travelled there in 1774), That the females in this country are all forced, and brought forward in deſpite of nature; that, during the winter-months, they are conſtantly in apartments heated by ſtoves to a great degree, from which they enter, upon a haſty, but hot ſummer, of two or three months. The conſequence of this, added to their [141] warm baths, of which they are very fond, is, that they want, like every other artificial production, the ge⯑nuine flavor, which nature only can give; that charm⯑ing firmneſs, and elaſticity of fleſh, ſo indiſpenſibly re⯑quiſite to conſtitute beauty. The ladies eſteemed as beauties here, are ponderous and maſſy; and loveli⯑neſs ſeems to conſiſt in a woman's weighing near 200 lb. In giving a deſcription of ſome of the principal cities, I ſhall have occaſion to ſpeak of the people again, of courſe will drop the ſubject for the preſent.

Peterſburgh, the capital of the empire, was founded by Peter the Great, in the beginning of this century, and has amazingly increaſed in ſize within theſe fifty years. At the death of Peter, it did not contain above 80,000 inhabitants, and now the Ruſſians aſſert that there are 500,000; but this, ſays Mr. Marſhall, is an exaggeration. The number, ſays Mr. Coxe, is about 130,000; and the city is, perhaps, the only one in Eu⯑rope where there are more births than deaths.

This palace of the Empreſs is an amazing ſtructure. Indeed all the capital houſes are rather great than beau⯑tiful; the ſize is all that ſtrike us; and they are ſtuck ſo thick with ornaments, as to leave us ſcarce room to judge of their proportion. The Italian architecture is mixed with the Dutch; and the whole forms but very inelegant buildings, in which true taſte is ſacrificed to ſplendor. If the eye does not ſcrutinize into the ſe⯑rate parts of the buildings, but takes in only the ſtreets at large, the city may be pronounced a very fine one. Many of the houſes are erected with wood, the ſides conſiſting of ſquare-ſided pieces of timber, laid upon each other. The roofs are thin, deal ſpars, laid pretty thick, and lined with laths, covered with turf, or bark. The houſes are ſeldom more than one ſtory high; and thoſe of the common people conſiſt of but one room; but the public buildings have throughout a very hand⯑ſome appearance, and are, like every thing elſe, on a larger ſcale than elſewhere. The churches have gene⯑rally a large cupola, encircled with four ſmaller ones, and covered with gilt copper, which has a fine effect in the ſunſhine.

[144]The river Neva, which runs through the city, is in moſt places broader than the Thames at London; is deep, rapid, and as clear as cryſtal. Its banks exhibit the moſt grand and lively ſcenes; they are lined on each ſide with a continued range of handſome build⯑ings, and it has one of the fineſt walks in the world; not a quay, but a parade, a mile long, which is ſtill to be continued further in length. It is embanked by a para⯑pet-wall, and has a pavement of hewn granite. Over the river is a bridge of pontoons; but a Ruſſian pea⯑ſant has projected the ſublime plan of throwing a wooden bridge, of a ſingle arch, acroſs it, where the river is only 680 feet wide, and which is to be built with all expedition; it is to be roofed over, and to tower 168 feet from the water. The road is not to be carried over the arch, but to hang to, or be ſuſpended in the middle, below it. The eſtimate for building this bridge is 60,000l. ſterling. The bridge is upon the ſame principle with that of Schaffhauſen, excepting that the mechaniſm is more complicated, and that the road is not ſo level; the aſcent of the road of the bridge at Schaffhauſen being barely four-tenths of an inch to a foot. The perſon, whoſe name is Kulibin, who projected this bridge, is merely a Ruſſian peaſant; has a long beard, and wears the common dreſs of his country; he receives, however, a penſion from the empreſs, and is encouraged to follow the bent of his mechanical genius, which is truly uncommon. Though rather foreign to our ſubject, it may not be unenter⯑taining [145] to our readers to have the following account of a repeating-watch that he made. It is about the ſize of an egg; within, is repreſented the tomb of our Saviour, with the ſtone at the entrance, and the cen⯑tinels on duty; ſuddenly, the ſtone is removed, the centinels fall down, the angels appear, the women enter the ſepulchre, and the ſame chant is heard which is per⯑formed on Eaſter Eve.—This watch is depoſited in the Academy of Sciences at Peterſburgh.

One of the nobleſt monuments paid to the veneration of the founder of this city, is the equeſtrian ſtatue of that monarch, caſt in bronze, by that celebrated French ſtatuary, Monſieur Falconet, at the expence of the Em⯑preſs, and erected in the area before the palace. A deſcription of it, being a wonderful undertaking, can⯑not diſpleaſe our readers: The pedeſtal on which it ſtands, is a ſtupendous maſs of reddiſh granite, which was diſcovered, half buried, in the midſt of a moraſs, at ſome diſtance from the city. The moraſs was drained, to get it out; and a road was cut, through a foreſt, to paſs it. After it was reduced, it weighed 1500 tons. It was drawn, with 40 men ſeated on the top of it, by a windlaſs, and large friction balls, placed in grooves, and fixed on each ſide of the road, to the banks of the river; on which it was conveyed, in a veſ⯑ſel conſtructed purpoſely to receive it, to the place where it now ſtands. At its baſe, it is 42 feet long, 36 at the top, 21 thick, and 17 high—a bulk greatly [146] ſurpaſſing, in weight, the moſt boaſted monuments of Roman grandeur. The ſtatue is of coloſſal ſize; and repreſents the monarch in the attitude of mounting a precipice, the ſummit of which he has nearly attained. He is crowned with laurel; in a looſe, Aſiatic veſt, and ſitting on a bear-ſkin houſing; his right hand ſtretched as in the act of bleſſing his people, and his left hold⯑ing the reins. The horſe is rearing on his hind legs; and his tail, which is full and flowing, ſlightly touches a bronze ſerpent, artfully contrived to aſſiſt in ſupport⯑ing the vaſt weight of the ſtatue, in due equilibrium. It was erected in 1782; and its erection attended with great ſolemnity. A proclamation was offered, at the time, to pardon all criminals, under ſentence of death; all deſerters, who ſhould return to their duty, within a limited time; and all convicts, condemned to hard la⯑bour, provided they had not been guilty of murder.

In 1706, Peter began the foundation of the fortreſs. Its walls are of brick, and ſtrengthened with five re⯑gular baſtions; they encircle a ſmall iſland, of about half a mile in circumference, formed by the Great and Little Neva. Within the walls are barracks for a ſmall garri⯑ſon, ſeveral wards uſed as a common jail, and dungeons for the confinement of ſtate-priſoners. In the fortreſs, is a ſmall arſenal, which, among other military ſtores, con [...]ains ſome antient cannon, caſt in the middle of the 16th century. In a ſeparate building of the fortreſs, is the mint. The gold and ſilver are ſent from the mines [147] of Siberia; and the ſeparation is performed in this laboratory. Large quantities of Dutch dollars are melted down here, for the purpoſe of coining into rubles; as half the duties are diſcharged in that money, by all foreign merchants, excepting the Engliſh, who are exempted, by treaty; but as theſe, and the gold and ſilver obtained from the mines of Siberia, are, by no means, ſufficient for the money in circulation, a con⯑ſiderable quantity of both theſe metals is annually im⯑ported. There is here a very ingenious and ſimple piece of mechaniſm—a machine for ſtamping the coin; which muſt not be omitted, becauſe it was an invention of her preſent majeſty. Within the fortreſs, is a four-oared boat, called, The Little Grandſire; which is ſe⯑cured, with great veneration, in a brick building, con⯑ſtructed for that purpoſe; and preſerved, as a memorial to future ages, of its being the origin of the Ruſſian fleet. Adjacent to the fortreſs, ſtands a wooden hovel, dignified, by its having ſerved for the habitation of Peter the Great, while the fortreſs was conſtructing. It ſtill exiſts in its original ſtate, and ſtands under a brick building, purpoſely erected to preſerve it from deſ⯑truction. Near this houſe is another four-oared boat, the work of Peter's own hands.

The cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, is in a different ſtate of architecture, from that uſually employed in the conſtruction of churches for the ſervice of the Greek religion. Inſtead of domes, it has a ſpire of copper, [148] gilt; the higheſt part of which riſes above 240 feet from the ground. Its interior decorations of paintings, &c. are in an elegant and modern ſtile. In this cathedral, are depoſited the remains of Peter the Great; and of all the ſucceſſive ſovereigns (excepting the late, unfortunate Peter the Third), who are ranged in coffins, ſide by ſide; but have not, any of them, marble monuments erected to their memories, bearing only inſcriptions in the Ruſ⯑ſian tongue on their tombs, which are ſhaped like ſquare coffins. Devotion has not been wanting, to add her magnificence, and to erect places of worſhip, in almoſt every part.

The market upon the Neva, is too remarkable to be omitted.—At the concluſion of the long faſt, which cloſes on the 24th of December, O. S. the Ruſſians lay in their proviſions, for the remaining part of the winter: for this purpoſe, an annual market, or fair, which laſts three days, is held upon the river, near the fortreſs. A long ſtreet, above a mile in length, is lined, on each ſide, with an immenſe ſtore of proviſions, ſuf⯑ficient for the ſupply of the capital, for the next three months. Many thouſand raw carcaſes of oxen, ſheep, hogs, pigs, together with geeſe, fowls, and every ſpecies of frozen food, are expoſed for ſale. The larger qua⯑drupedes are grouped, in various circles, upright, their hind legs fixed in the ſnow, with their heads and fore-legs turned towards each other. Theſe tower above the reſt, and occupy the hindermoſt row; next to [149] them ſucceeds a regular ſeries of animals, deſcending gradually to the ſmalleſt; intermixed with poultry and game, hanging in feſtoons, and garniſhed with heaps of fiſh, butter and eggs. The moſt diſtant quarters help to ſupply this vaſt ſtore of proviſions; and the fineſt veal has been ſent, by land-carriage, as far as from Archangel. Beef is ſold at one penny the Ruſſian pound, that is, fourteen ounces and an half Engliſh, pork at five farthings, and mutton at three halfpence; a gooſe for ten pence, a pig for eight pence, and all other articles in proportion. In order to ren⯑der their frozen food fit for dreſſing, it is firſt thawed in cold water.

The court of Peterſburgh has long enjoyed the re⯑putation of being one of the moſt brilliant in Europe. Rich cloaths are ſtill the paſſion of the Ruſſians; and, though ſumptuary laws have been often talked of, and ſet on foot, they have never properly been carried into execution. Mr. Coxe, who, with Lord Herbert, was preſented to the Empreſs, on the birth-day of the Grand Duke, who is next heir to the throne, and when a brilliant court was aſſembled, gives us the following account of it. At the entrance of the drawing-room, ſtood two centinels of the foot-guards; their uniform, was a green coat, with red cuffs and cape, white waiſt⯑coat and breeches: they had ſilver helmets, faſtened under the chin with ſilver claſps, and ornamented with an ample plume of red, yellow, black, and white fea⯑thers. [150] Within the drawing-room, at the doors of the paſſage leading to her majeſty's apartments, were two ſoldiers of the knights body-guard; a corps more ſumptuouſly accoutred than any in Europe. They wore caſques, like thoſe of the ancients, with a rich plumage of black feathers; and their whole dreſs was in the ſame ſ [...]le; chains, and broad plates of ſolid ſilver, were braided over their uniforms, ſo as to wear the appearance of a coat of mail; and their boots were richly ornamented with the ſame metal.

In the drawing-room were a numerous aſſembly of foreign miniſters, Ruſſian nobility, and officers, in their different uniforms, waiting the arrival of the Empreſs, who was attending divine ſervice in the chapel. There, amid a prodigious concourſe of nobles, ſtood the Empreſs foremoſt by herſelf, behind a railing; the only diſtinc⯑tion by which her place was marked. Immediately next to her, ſtood the Great Duke and Ducheſs; and, behind, an indiſcriminate throng of courtiers. The Empreſs bowed, and frequently croſſed herſelf, agree⯑able to the forms of the Greek church. When ſhe left the chapel, ſhe was preceded by the chief officers of her houſhold, the miſtreſs of the robes, her maids of honour, and other ladies of the bed-chamber, advanc⯑ing two by two. Her majeſty followed, with ſlow and ſolemn pace, walking with great pomp, and bowing, continually, to the right and left. She ſtopped at the entrance of the drawing-room, and ſpoke, with great [151] affability, to the foreign miniſters, whilſt they kiſſed her hand. Her dreſs was a robe, with a ſhort train; and a veſt, with ſleeves reaching to the wriſt, like a poloneſe. The veſt was of gold brocade, and the robe of light, green ſilk. Her hair was dreſſed low, and lightly powdered; ſhe wore a cap ſet thick with diamonds, and had on a great deal of rouge.

In the evening was a ball at court, which is always held on the third day. The Great Duke and Dutcheſs opened it with a minuet; after which, theſe great per⯑ſonages danced a minuet each with the principal nobi⯑lity; the Duke with a lady, and the Dutcheſs with a gen⯑tleman: ſeveral other couples dancing minuets in dif⯑ferent parts of the circle. Theſe minuets were ſuc⯑ceeded by Poliſh dances; and theſe, by Engliſh country-dances. During the latter, the Empreſs came in, more richly apparelled than in the morning, and wearing a crown of diamonds upon her head.

On her majeſty's appearance, the ball was ſuſpended; and, the principal people paid their reſpects to the Empreſs. This done, ſhe aſcended an elevated ſeat, and the dancing was reſumed. After this, ſhe withdrew to an inner room to cards, and played at Macao, at an Imperial, or two-pound a game, with the foreign mi⯑niſters. Her majeſty retired about 10, and all was over.

[152]The Empreſs has a drawing-room every Sunday morning, about 12. The richneſs and ſplendor of the Ruſſian court ſurpaſſes all the ideas which the moſt ela⯑borate deſcriptions can ſuggeſt; retaining many traces of ancient Aſiatic pomp, blended with European re⯑finement. An immenſe retinue of courtiers always precede, and follow, the Empreſs; the coſtlineſs and glare of their apparel, and a profuſion of precious ſtones, create a ſplendor, of which the magnificence of other courts can give only a faint idea. The court-dreſs of the men is in the French faſhion: that of the ladies, is a gown and petticoat, with a ſmall hoop; the gown has long hanging ſleeves, and a ſhort train, and is of a different colour from the petticoat. The ladies wore, in 1777, very lofty head-dreſſes, and were not ſparing of rouge. The men wear diamonds, as well as the women. Their buttons, buckles, ſword-hilts, and epaulets, are compoſed of ſeveral rows of pearls; and a diamond ſtar is ſcarce a diſtinction. This paſſion for jewels ſeems to pervade the lower claſs of people; for, even private families abound with them; and the wife of a common, Ruſſian burgher, will appear, with a head-dreſs, or girdle of pearls and other pre⯑cious ſtones, worth two or three hundred pounds.

At certain times, the Empreſs dines in public. On the 2d of December, ſhe gives an entertainment to the officers of the regiment, of which ſhe, as ſovereign, is the colonel. At this time ſhe is dreſſed in the uniform [153] of the regiment, in a habit reſembling a riding-dreſs. They ſit with her, and ſhe is very attentive to them. At another time, ſhe dines with the knights of the ſe⯑veral orders, and is then habited like them. At theſe public dinners, ſhe hands each perſon, preſent, a glaſs of wine, who, after a low obeiſance, drinks it off. At the concluſion of this ceremony, which is generally about one o'clock, her majeſty leads the way, into an adjoin⯑ing apartment. She takes her place in the middle of the table, and the officers are ranged on each ſide, ac⯑cording to their reſpective ranks. Her majeſty, upon theſe occaſions, condeſcends to help the ſoup herſelf, and pays, throughout, the greateſt attention to her gueſts. After the repaſt, which uſually laſts about an hour, her majeſty riſes from table, and withdraws.

The Empreſs, on days of high ceremony, generally wears a crown of diamonds, of immenſe value; and appears with the ribbands of the order of St. Andrew and Merit, flung both over the ſame ſhoulder, with the collars of their orders, and the two ſtars emblazoned, one above the other, upon her veſt.

The palace of Peterhof, ſituated about 20 miles from the capital, has gardens, which are celebrated for their taſte and elegance, and are the frequent ſcenes of the moſt ſplendid entertainments. They have, from their number of jet d' eaus, &c. been compared to thoſe of Verſailles: and indeed, in one reſpect, they are far ſu⯑perior; [154] for, thoſe of the latter only play, upon par⯑ticular occaſions, while thoſe of Peterhof are perpe⯑tual. In the garden is an elegant pavilion, conſtructed by order of the Empreſs, when ſhe was Great Dutcheſs. It contains eighteen apartments, each furniſhed in dif⯑ferent taſtes; namely, the Greek, Turkiſh, Chineſe, &c. and is ſituated in the middle of a thick wood. Its approaches being circular, we have not the leaſt glimpſe, until we arrive at it; and, as it generally cauſes an emo⯑tion of ſurprize, it has, for that reaſon, received the appellation of Ha!

I ſhall not detain the reader, with a deſcription of the ſilver dolphins, and gilded ſtatues, which are ſcattered in great profuſion; but there are ſome few particulars, which, as they may afford entertainment, I muſt not omit. Theſe are, two gladiators, placed in a baſon of water: they are repreſented, not with the antient weapons, a ſword and buckler, but with the more mo⯑dern inſtruments of war, a brace of piſtols; which, as they point to each other in threatening attitudes, the water guſhes impetuouſly from the barrels.

Among the numerous buildings the garden contains, is one erected by Peter I. and by him called Monplaiſir, the name by which it is now diſtinguiſhed. He con⯑conſtructed this ſmall houſe, cloſe to the gulf of Fin⯑land, from a prepoſſeſſion, that the air from the water, was the moſt wholeſome for his conſtitution. It is [155] brick, of one ſtory, and roofed with iron; the windows reach from the ground to the top, which, added to the length and lowneſs of the building, gives it the appear⯑ance of a green-houſe. The habitable part, conſiſts of a hall, and ſix ſmall rooms; all furniſhed in the neateſt and plaineſt manner. The mantle-pieces are orna⯑mented with curious, old porcelain, which he greatly prized, as being brought into Ruſſia, when the commu⯑nication was firſt open with China. The bed-room is ſmall, white-waſhed, and the floor covered with a co⯑loured ſail-cloth. It contains a barrack-bedſtead, with⯑out curtains. Several pictures of himſelf are here, under the character of Maſter Peter, when he worked at Sardam.

The mountain of ſledges, or, as ſome travellers term it, the Flying Mountain, in the gardens of Peterhof, is a moſt extraordinary building, and merits particular obſervation; and for which I ſhall quote Mr. Coxe. — It ſtands in the middle of an oblong area, encloſed by an open colonade, with a flat roof; is railed in, for the convenience of holding ſpectators. The circumference of this colonade is, at leaſt, half a mile. In the mid⯑dle of the area, ſtands the Flying Mountain, ſtretching, nearly, from one end to the other. It is a wooden building, ſupported upon pillars, repreſenting an un⯑even ſurface of ground, or a mountain, compoſed of three princpal aſcents, gradually diminiſhing in height, with an intermediate ſpace, to reſemble vallies; from [156] top to bottom, is a floored way, in which three pa⯑rallel grooves are formed. It is thus uſed, a ſmall carriage, containing one perſon, being placed in the center groove upon the higheſt point, goes with great rapidity down one hill; the velocity which it requires, in its deſcent, carries it up a ſecond, and it continues to move, in a ſimilar manner, until it arrives at the bot⯑tom of the area, where it rolls, for a conſiderable way, on the level ſurface, and ſtops before it attains the boundary. It is then placed in one of the ſide-grooves, and drawn up, by means of a cord, fixed to a windlaſs. At the top of the mountain, is a handſome apartment, for the accommodation of the court, and principal no⯑bility. There is alſo room for many thouſand ſpectators within the colonade, and upon its roof; but her preſent majeſty does not ſeem ſo fond of this diverſion, as the late empreſs. Theſe elegant gardens are frequently illuminated in the moſt ſuperb manner.

The winter-palace at Peterſburgh, is built of brick, ſtuccoed white, and was erected by the late empreſs, Elizabeth; it is very large, and very heavy. It is not yet quite finiſhed, like almoſt every thing elſe in Ruſſia. The ſituation is very lively; on the banks of the Neva, and in the center of the town. Contiguous to it, is a ſmall palace, built by the preſent Empreſs, called, The Hermitage, communicating with the palace, by means of a covered gallery. When her majeſty reſides in this part of the building, ſhe is in retreat, and there is [157] no drawing-room, or court; from this it takes its ap⯑pellation; but bears no other reſemblance to a her⯑mitage, except in its name; the apartments being ex⯑tremely ſpacious, and decorated in a ſuperb ſtile of regal magnificence. To this favourite ſpot, the Em⯑preſs uſually repairs for an hour or two every day; and, on a Thurſday evening, gives a private ball and ſupper to the principal perſons who form her court; foreign miniſters, and foreign noblemen, being ſeldom invited. At this entertainment, all ceremony is ſaid to be ba⯑niſhed, as far as is conſiſtent with that reſpect which is paid to a great ſovereign. The attendance of ſervants is excluded, while the ſupper, and various refreſhments, are preſented on ſmall tables, which riſe through trap-doors. There are two galleries of paintings, which have been lately purchaſed, at an immenſe expence, in Italy.

A winter, and ſummer-garden, compriſed within the ſcite of the building, are ſingular curioſities, and ſuch as do not, perhaps, occur in any other palace in Eu⯑rope. The ſummer-garden, in the true Aſiatick ſtile, occupies the whole level top of the edifice. The winter-garden is entirely roofed, and ſurrounded with glaſs-frames; it is an high and ſpacious hot-houſe, laid out in gravel-walks, ornamented with parterres of flow⯑ers, orange-trees, and other ſhrubs; and peopled with ſeveral birds of ſundry ſorts, and various climates, flit⯑ting from tree to tree. This exhibits a moſt pleaſing [158] effect; and is wonderfully delightful, when contraſted with the diſmal and dreary winter-ſeaſon, in Ruſſia.

Before I quit Peterſburgh, I muſt obſerve, that, from its low and marſhy ſituation, it is much ſubject to inundations; which have, occaſionally, riſen ſo high, as to threaten the town with a total ſubmerſion. Theſe floods are chiefly occaſioned by a weſt, or ſouth-weſt wind; which, blowing directly from the gulph, obſtructs the current of the Neva, and cauſes a vaſt accumulation of its waters; but theſe floods become leſs and leſs alarming, from the gradual raiſing of the ground, by buildings, and other cauſes.

In the evening of the 9th of September, 1777, a moſt violent ſtorm of wind, blowing at firſt S. W. and after⯑wards W. raiſed the Neva, and its various branches, to ſo great a height, that, at five in the morning, the waters poured over the banks, and ſuddenly overflow⯑ed the town, and vaſt numbers of the people were drowned. The torrent roſe, in ſeveral ſtreets, to the depth of four-feet-and-an-half, and over-turned, by its rapidity, various buildings and bridges. About ſeven, the wind ſhifting to N. W. the flood fell as ſuddenly; and, at mid-day, moſt of the ſtreets, which, in the morning, could only be paſſed in boats, became dry. For a ſhort time, the river roſe ten feet ſeven inches above its ordinary level.

[159]About 20 miles from Peterſburgh, by water, lies the iſland Retuſari, a long ſlip of land, near 10 miles in circumference, and containing at preſent about 30,000 inhabitants, including the ſailors and garriſon; the former amounting to 12,000, the latter to 1,500 men. On the ſouth-eaſtern extremity of this iſland is built the town of Cronſtadt, defended, towards the ſea, by wooden piers, projecting into the water; and, towards the land, by ramparts and baſtions. It is a very ſtrag⯑gling place, and occupies, like all Ruſſian towns, a larger ſpace of ground than the number of dwellings ſeem to require. This iſland was fortified for the ſecu⯑rity of the Ruſſian fleet; for, on the ſouth ſide of the iſland, is the only paſſage, for ſhips of burthen, up to Peterſburgh, through a narrow channel.

It was in the fortreſs of Cronſtadt that Peter III. hoped to have ſecured himſelf at the time of the late revo⯑lution; but the preſent Empreſs, anticipating his inten⯑tion, had ſecured it; and Peter, not having the cou⯑rage to attempt to land, returned back to Oranien⯑baum, where reſigning all power into her hands, this mighty revolution was effected in a few hours, almoſt without any confuſion or uproar. Peter was then ſe⯑cured within the citadel; and on the ninth day conſe⯑quent to his ſeizure, it was reported he had a diſorder in his bowels, and, ſoon after, his death was an⯑nounced.

[160]Moſcow, of which I have already treated very fully in the ſecond volume, is, in rank, the ſecond city of this empire, though it was formerly the firſt. It is ſituated in 55 degrees, 45 minutes, and 45 ſeconds of northern latitude. Here the chief nobles, who do not belong to the court of the Empreſs, reſide; and here ſupport a large number of retainers. They love to gratify their taſte for a ruder, and more expenſive mag⯑nificence, in the ancient ſtyle of feudal grandeur; and are not, as at Peterſburgh, eclipſed by the ſuperior ſplendor of the court.

There is a ſort of ſavage and barbarous grandeur in their taſte, which here appears in the edifices and pro⯑ductions of Athenian ſculpture or architecture. The Empreſs has begun to erect a palace, which is deſigned to be two or three Engliſh miles in circumference. The city itſelf is an immenſe aggregate of villages; and the Muſcovite lords commonly go near forty of our miles to make morning viſits to each other. From the windings of the river, and from many eminences which are covered with groves of fine, tall trees; and from nu⯑merous gardens and lawns that open to the water, the city has a moſt pleaſing, airy appearance. In ſhort, ac⯑cording to Marſhall, it is a finer city than Peterſburgh.

Novogorod is one of the moſt ancient cities in Ruſ⯑ſia; and no place ever filled the mind with more me⯑lancholy ideas of fallen grandeur. Richard Chancellor, [161] who paſſed through it in 1554, in his way to Moſcow, ſays, that, though in majeſty, it is inferior to Moſcow, in greatneſs it exceeds it. The commodiouſneſs of the river makes it much frequented by merchants, and more famous than Moſcow itſelf. In its moſt flouriſhing condition, it contained at leaſt 400,000 ſouls; at pre⯑ſent, it contains ſcarcely 7000.

In 1570, under the reign of Ivan II. Novogorod experienced a downfall, from which it has never reco⯑vered; that monarch having diſcovered a ſecret correſ⯑pondence between ſome of the principal inhabitants, and the king of Poland, relative to a ſurrender of the city into his hands, inflicted the moſt inhuman ven⯑geance upon them. During the ſpace of five weeks, which the Court of Inquiry continued, upwards of 500, daily, fell victims to incenſed deſpotiſm. This bar⯑barous tranſaction, and the ſavage ferocity with which it was executed, equals, if not ſurpaſſes, in cruelty, the maſſacre at Stockholm, under Chriſtian II.

Although the ſplendor of this once flouriſhing court, received a very conſiderable diminution by this horrid cataſtrophe, and the ſubſequent oppreſſions which the town experienced under that ſanguinary prince, yet it was not totally obſcured, until the foundation of Peterſburgh, to which favourite capital Peter the Great transferred all the commerce of the Baltic, which before centered in Novogorod. In 1611, the Swedes took it [162] by ſtorm, but afterwards ſurrendered it to the Muſ⯑covites. The town ſtretches on both ſides of the Wolkof, a river of conſiderable depth and rapidity, and ſomewhat broader than the Thames at Windſor. This river ſeparates the town into two diviſions; which are united, by means of a bridge, partly wooden, and partly brick. The firſt diviſion, excepting the gover⯑nor's houſe, differs only from the common villages, by a vaſt number of brick churches and convents, which ſtand melancholy monuments of its former magni⯑ficence; while half-cultivated fields, encloſed within high palliſadoes, and large ſpaces, covered with net⯑tles, atteſt its preſent deſolate condition. Towards its extremity, is erected a manufactory, at the Empreſs's expence, for ropes and ſails. The oppoſite diviſion, denominated, the quarter of St. Sophia, comprehends the fortreſs; which is of an irregularly oval form, and ſurrounded with a high, brick wall, ſtrengthened with round and ſquare towers. The fortreſs contains, the cathedral of St. Sophia, the old, archiepiſcopal man⯑ſion, with its ſtair-caſe on the outſide, part of a new palace, not yet finiſhed; and a few other brick build⯑ings; but, the remaining ſpace, is a waſte, overſpread with weeds and nettles, and covered with ruins.

The cathedral is, probably, one of the moſt antient churches in Ruſſia. It was begun in 1044 and com⯑pleted in 1051. It is a high, ſquare building, with a gilded cupola, and four tin domes. In the inſide of [163] this cathedral, to which we enter through a pair of brazen gates, ornamented with various ſcriptural hiſto⯑ries, in alto-relievo, are 12 maſſy pillars, white-waſhed, which, as well as the walls, are thickly covered with the repreſentations of our Saviour, the Virgin Mary, and various other ſaints. Some of theſe paintings are of very high antiquity. Several princes of the ducal fa⯑mily of Ruſſia, are interred within this cathedral; the moſt ancient of whoſe ſepulchres are of carved wood, gilt and ſilvered, and ſurrounded with iron rails; the others are, of brick and mortar. Within the ſanctu⯑ary, the walls are covered with curious, Moſaic compart⯑ments, of coarſe workmanſhip, and ſeemingly very ancient.

The country about Novogorod, abounds in grain, flax, hemp, honey and wax; and, it is here, they ma⯑nufacture the beſt Ruſſia leather. The price of pro⯑viſions, in this place, is as follows:

Butcher's meat, per lb. 14½ oz. Engliſh

1d½ to 2d.

Black bread, ditto

½

White ditto

1

French ditto

2

Butter, ditto

4

Ten eggs

1d½ to 5d.

Couple of fowls

1s 3d to 1s 8d.

Fat gooſe

1s

Couple of wild ducks

6d.

[164]Tame ditto, a couple

1s. 3d.

Brace of partridges

10

Black game, cock and hen

1 6

Hare

7½

Quart of milk

1½

Beſt ſpirituous liquors, per quart

1 6

Inferior ſort, ditto

9

Peaſants ſhoes

1 3

Boots

4 10

Round hat

1 3

Shirt, no collar or wriſtbands, very ſhort

1 3

Moſcow is afflicted with very frequent and dreadful fires. The account of that in May, 1752, is immenſe; they mention 13,000 houſes, which is hardly credible: and, what is remarkable, that fire, in two hour's time, was carried to the extent of two Engliſh miles. But, by a decree of the Ruſſian ſenate, the wood-houſes are now limited to certain quarters of the city; and, in all other places, they were ordered to be rebuilt with brick and ſtone. There is a very conſiderable manufacture at Moſcow, of various hemp-fabricks, which employs ſome thouſands of looms, and many thouſands of peo⯑ple. This city is almoſt in the centre of the moſt cul⯑tivated parts of the empire; and is, therefore, inde⯑pendent of various other advantages it poſſeſſes, better ſituated for the metropolis of the empire, than Peterſ⯑burgh. Founding that city, and making it the ſeat of foreign commerce and naval power, was an admirable [165] exertion of genius; but, the ſeat of government, ſhould always have been at Moſcow.—For any further par⯑ticulars, I muſt refer my readers to the beginning of the ſecond volume.

Kiovia, or Kiof, the capital of the Ukraine, is alſo one of the moſt conſiderable cities of Ruſſia; a place well-known in the hiſtory of that empire; which, though, compared to its former grandeur, it has been reduced to a low ſtate, by many revolutions, yet it has now recovered all thoſe ancient blows, and is well built, of brick and ſtone. The ſtreets are wide, ſtrait, and well-paved. It has a biſhop, a noble cathedral (much of it lately rebuilt), and 11 other churches. It has 40,000 inhabitants, and is ſtrongly fortified. The Nieper is here a noble river, has ſeveral larger rivers falling into it, after waſhing ſome of the richeſt provinces of Po⯑land; and enables this town to carry on a very conſi⯑derable commerce. It is the grand magazine of all the commodities of the Ukraine; particularly hemp and flax, which, in this fine province, are raiſed in greater quantities, and of a better quality, than in any other part of Europe. The Ukraine is the richeſt pro⯑vince in the Ruſſian empire; and lies between the Nieper and the Don. It is, on an average, 250 miles long, from eaſt to weſt; and 140 broad, from north to ſouth. Part uf it was formerly a province of Poland; and, the reſt, an independent ſovereignty, under a Tartar prince: but the whole, now, is a mere [166] province of Ruſſia, inhabited by Circaſſian traders; and is much the richeſt acquiſition the Crown has made.

The inhabitants of the Ukraine are not vaſſals, but chiefly little freehold-farmers, and are the beſt huſband⯑men in all Ruſſia. Mr. Marſhall ſays, he thinks he never ſaw ſuch deep ploughing, as theſe peaſants give their grounds; he meaſured nine inches perpendicular, after a plough drawn by four oxen. Their ploughs are very well conſtructed, and are made wholly of iron, without wheels. They have very noble crops of cab⯑bages, of a red ſort, that grow to the weight of 25 or 30lb. with which they feed their cattle. An acre of them will winter four or five large oxen. They have alſo whole fields of potatoes, which yield from 12 to 1500 buſhels per acre; numbers of them, as large as the body of a quart bottle: they plant them, as we do, in ſlices. They grow alſo tobacco. In ſhort, it is this diſtrict which raiſes nine-tenths of the hemp and flax which we import, at ſuch a vaſt expence, from Ruſſia. The ſoil is a very rich, deep mould, between a loam and a dry clay; but without any of that tenacious thick⯑neſs, ſo diſagreeable in ſtirring in our clay-lands in England.

Riga is another, and the next conſiderable place of trade to Peterſburgh. It is the metropolis of Livonia, and ſtands very advantageouſly for commerce, about 10 [167] miles from the mouth of the river Duna, in the Baltic ſea; which river extending a great way into Poland and Ruſſia, brings down immenſe quantities of commodities, which are there exported. More than 800 ſail of ſhips are loaded here, in a year, from 150 to 400 tons bur⯑then, half of them Engliſh. This province was taken from the Swedes, in 1710; and, of all the Ruſſian conqueſts, it is one of the greateſt, on account of its products, ports, and ſituation. It is nearly a ſquare of 200 miles every way, and contains better than 25 millions of acres, and near 12 millions of people. Half the lands are under profitable cultivation; and its an⯑nual product is eſtimated at 13 millions ſteriing.

Riga itſelf is inveſted with deep, barren ſands, and has nothing agreeable about it. It is ſurrounded with for⯑tifications; the houſes are all high, the ſtreets very narrow, ill paved, and very dirty; and contains about 16,000 inhabitants. But the bridge over the river is one of the moſt ſingular and ſurpriſing in Europe. It is 900 paces long, and far exceeds the bridge at Rouen. It conſiſts of tranſverſe beams of timber, jointed together, and riſes and falls with the tide. It is erected in ſpring always, when the river is free from ice; and removed in November, before the froſt ſets in.

Ruſſian Finland is a province of Ruſſia which for⯑merly belonged to the Swedes, and which they are now contending for. This province retains moſt of its [168] ancient privileges; its own civil and criminal courts of juſtice: but their puniſhments do not extend to death. The peaſants ſpeak the Fin language; but the inhabit⯑ants of the towns, Swediſh and German: the Lutheran religion is the eſtabliſhed one; but, the Greek church, has been lately introduced. It is ſo un-peopled, un-cultivated, and un-fertile, that 40 Engliſh miles of land have been lately ſold for 400l. ſterling.

Wiburgh is the capital of this province, is a fortified town, and contains about 9,000 people; but the exports of the place, in planks, tallow, pitch and tar, load an⯑nually 100 ſail of ſhips, the greater part of which are Engliſh.

Archangel is another port of the Ruſſians, on the North Sea. It is a ſmall town, almoſt on the mouth of the Duiria, about 300 miles from Peterſburgh, where the river, which is very broad and deep, forms an ex⯑cellent harbour. It was formerly the reſidence of the Britiſh factors, till they removed to Peterſburgh. In thoſe days, it was not uncommon to ſee 4 or 500 ſail of ſhips in the harbour, at one time; but the trade be⯑ing transferred to Peterſburgh, it is now a poor place, of very little reſort; and the buildings contain nothing worthy of notice. They have a cathedral, and an arch⯑biſhop of the Greek church; but every thing looks on the decline.

[169]Of Ruſs Poland, that part of Poland which Ruſſia has now taken to herſelf, Rzeezyka is the capital. It is large, populous, and ſtrongly fortified; but as much Ruſſian as is Moſcow; a Ruſſian garriſon, Ruſſian go⯑vernment, ſcarcely any thing Poliſh in it. All the houſes, deſerted by the Poles, being filled with Ruſſian families. Indeed, near half the kingdom of Poland is in the hands of the Ruſſians, who receive pretty heavy taxes from it, and recruit their army, againſt the Turks, from it. The Poliſh nobles, who declare againſt Ruſ⯑ſia, are driven from their eſtates; and great numbers of the peaſantry, are removed, immediately into Ruſ⯑ſia, and their places filled by Ruſſians. The Empreſs, by this acquiſition, gets an increaſe of ſubjects, to the number of 1,500,000.

CHAP. III. Of their Amuſements, Cuſtoms, Manners, &c.

AMONG their various amuſements, that of their maſquerades, and illuminations, in the gardens at Peterhof, deſerve to be particularly noticed. They are given, by the Empreſs, upon a great occaſion; and convey a moſt extenſive proof of the ſplendor and magnificence of the Ruſſian court.

[170]The maſquerade is rather a bal paré en domino; as there are very few or no fancy-dreſſes, nor is any cha⯑racter ſupported. Every perſon, without diſtinction is admitted, on theſe occaſions; and there are, ſome⯑times, not leſs than 4 or 5000 perſons preſent; amongſt whom is her Majeſty, who ſometimes plays cards moſt of the night.

The illuminations in the garden, are far beyond any ſeen elſewhere; for in this, as well as in fire-works, the Ruſſians excel every nation in Europe. On theſe occaſions, two prodigious arcades of fire are extended in front of the palace; the canal, which reaches to the gulph of Finland, has been illuminated on both ſides, the view terminating by a rock, lighted in the inſide, and affording a moſt beautiful effect; from either ſide of the canal, long, arched walks, illuminated; and, beyond theſe, in the woods, hanging feſtoons of lamps, differently coloured. All the jets d' eaux play⯑ing; artificial caſcades, with the water tumbling from one declivity to another, and, under each, lights, ſo artfully diſpoſed, as, at once, to amuſe and ſurpriſe the ſpectator: beſides theſe, ſummer-houſes, pyramids, and temples of flame; and, beyond all, the Imperial yatchts, appearing in the ſame brilliant and dazzling ornaments.

Two or three times, in the winter, there are maſque⯑rades at the court at Peterſburgh, to which perſons of [171] all ranks are admitted. A magnificent ſuite of 20 apart⯑ments is opened upon theſe occaſions, all handſomely illuminated. From 7 to 8000 tickets are diſtributed; and Mr. Coxe ſays, that at one, at which he was, he ſhould ſuppoſe that number were actually preſent. One of the apartments, a large, oblong room, the ſame in which the common balls at court are held, has a ſpace in the middle, encloſed with a low railing, appropriat⯑ed to the nobility who dance. A moſt elegant ſaloon, of an oval form, nearly as big as the rotunda at Rane⯑lagh, but without any ſupport in the middle, is allotted for the dances of the burghers, and other perſons, who have not been preſented at court. The remaining rooms, in which tea, and other refreſhments, are ſerved, are filled with card-tables. About ſeven the Empreſs uſually makes her appearance, at the head of a ſuperb quadrille, conſiſting of eight ladies, led by as many gentlemen. Her Majeſty, and her attendants, are al⯑ways, upon theſe occaſions, moſt ſumptuouſly appa⯑relled; and, as uſual, with a profuſe decoration of dia⯑monds. The Empreſs, after walking round the ſaloon two or three times, ſits down to cards in an adjoining room, where the company flock in crouds, without diſtinction, and arrange themſelves, as they can find admittance, round the table, at a reſpectful diſtance. About eleven the Empreſs uſually withdraws.

In the ſummer ſeaſon, when the court is out of town, there are ſcarce any public ſpectacles at Peterſ⯑burgh, except at the Imperial palace, where a French [172] and Ruſſian comedy are performed generally once a week. The ſeats are adjuſted by rank, and no money is paid for admittance, as it is the Empreſs's own amuſement, and limited to people of condition. Box⯑ing-matches are very favorite diverſions among the common people; they generally aſſemble, 3 or 400, and divide themſelves into two parties, each of which chuſes a chief, who calls out the combatants, and pits them againſt each other. They do not ſtrip, as with us, and have on thick, leathern gloves; from the ſtiff⯑neſs of the leather, they can ſcarcely double their fiſts, ſo that many of them ſtrike open-handed. Their atti⯑tudes are very different from thoſe uſed by boxers in England; they advance the left foot and ſide; ſtretch the left arm towards the adverſary, in order to repel his blows, and keep the right arm ſwinging at ſome diſtance from the other. They generally ſtrike, in a circular direction, at the face and head, never attack the breaſt or ſides, and ſeem to have no notion of aim⯑ing a blow directly forward. When any combatant fells his antagoniſt to the ground, he is declared victor, and the conteſt between that pair immediately ceaſes. Their mode of fighting prevents any miſchief from its exertion; nor do we, therefore, ſeldom ſee any of thoſe fractures and contuſions, in which boxing-matches in England ſo frequently terminate.

The tournament is a favourite diverſion in Ruſſia. I ſhall deſcribe one from Mr. Coxe's Travels, at which he was preſent.

[173]"His Imperial Highneſs the Great Duke, who two or three times in a week takes this diverſion, and eleven of his nobles, dreſſed in uniforms of buff and gold, and armed with a lance, ſword and piſtols, were aſſembled at nine o'clock, although it was as yet duſk. The Great Duke drew them up by pairs; and, upon the ſound of the trumpet, he and the knights imme⯑diately mounted their horſes, and retired in due order without the rails. Two rings were ſuſpended on oppo⯑ſite ſides of the wall, on each ſide of the manage. At each corner was a Moor's head, of paſteboard; or an apple, fixed upon a pole; and, between them, two heads, with a ſquib in their mouths: theſe were all placed upon ſtands, almoſt as high as a man on horſe⯑back, and at ſome paces from the wall: at each end was alſo a helmet of paſteboard, raiſed upon a ſtand, about a foot from the ground, and about four from the wall. The two judges, with Lord Herbert and my⯑ſelf, who were the only ſpectators, took our ſtation on the outſide of the rail. Upon a ſecond ſignal from the trumpet, two knights entered at oppoſite ends of the manage. A band of muſic played a quick air, while each knight, galloping his horſe to the right, and making a vault, ſaluted with their lances at the ſame time; then, continuing their courſe round the manage, each ran with his lance, firſt at the rings ſuſpended from the walls, and next at the Moor's head; after which they deli⯑vered their lances, as they went on, to their ſervants on foot. The knights then drew their piſtols, and, each [174] making a ſecond vault round the other's head, diſ⯑charged them, in order to ſet fire to the ſquib; then purſuing their courſe round the manage, they drew their ſwords, and, making a third vault round the apple, endeavoured to ſtrike it to the ground. They finiſhed their career by ſtooping down as they galloped by, thruſting their ſwords through the helmets; then poiſing them in the air, they met in the middle, and, riding towards the judge, ſaluted him; related the at⯑tempts in which they had ſucceeded, and demanded their prizes. The prize was about four ſhillings for each atchievement; and an equal value was paid for every failure. The whole was performed on a conti⯑nued gallop, and always to the right. In running at the ring, the head, or the helmet, it is eſteemed ho⯑norable to put the horſe into full career, which increaſes the difficulty. The judge, having beſtowed the re⯑wards, and taken the forfeits, ordered the two knights to retire. The trumpets again ſounding, two others made their appearance, and performed the ſame man⯑oeuvres. This exerciſe was repeated twice by each pair of knights; the whole troop then entered at the ſame time, marched, charged, formed, drew, re⯑turned their ſwords, and diſmounted, by word of com⯑mand from the Great Duke. At the concluſion they adjourned to the fire, chocolate was brought in, and, after a ſhort converſation, the Great Duke bowed, and retired."

[175]Hawking, and courſing with greyhounds, is alſo very much a favourite amuſement of the Ruſſians. Before the days of Peter the Great, they were barbarous, ig⯑norant, and very much addicted to drunkenneſs. No fewer than 4,000 brandy-ſhops have been reckoned in Moſcow. Not only the common people, but many of the boyars, or nobles, lived in a continual ſtate of idle⯑neſs and intoxication; and the moſt complete objects of miſery and barbarity preſented themſelves in the ſtreets; while the court of Moſcow was by far the moſt ſplendid of any upon the globe. The Ruſſians, before the time of Peter,, had no places of public diverſion; and they entertained a ſovereign contempt for all im⯑provements of the mind. At preſent, a French or Engliſh gentleman, though a fine day does not tempt him to take a walk, and he has few rural ſcenes to en⯑chant his eyes, may make a ſhift to live as comfortably and ſociably in Ruſſia, as in moſt other parts of Eu⯑rope; and, if he lives genteely at Peterſburgh, he is ſure to get eaſily into the beſt of company.

The ſtoves they make uſe of diffuſe a more equal and genial warmth than our grates and chimnies. Their polite aſſemblies have, ſince the acceſſion of the preſent Empreſs, been put under proper regulations; and few of their ancient uſages remain, but ſuch as are of public utility, and adapted to the nature of the country.

[176]The Czarina and grandees, according to Captain Perry's account, dreſſed after the moſt ſuperb, Aſiatic manner; and their magnificence exceeded every idea that can be conceived, from modern examples: and the Earl of Carliſle, in the account of his embaſſy, ſays, That he could ſee nothing but gold and precious ſtones in the robes of the Czar, and his courtiers. The ma⯑nufactures, however, of theſe, and all other luxuries, were carried on by Italians, Germans, and other fo⯑reigners.

Peter, who ſaw the bulk of his ſubjects, at his acceſſion to the throne, little better than beaſts of burthen, to ſupport the pomp of the court, forced his great men to lay aſide their long robes, which hung down to the mid⯑dle of the ſmall of their legs, and was gathered, and laid in plaits upon their hips, little differing from women's petticoats; and appear after the Engliſh faſhion. To compell this, he adopted different methods; one of which, from its oddity, I ſhall mention. He had cloaths, made according to the Engliſh faſhion, hung up at all the gates of the city of Moſcow, and iſſued a proclamation, that all perſons (excepting the common peaſants, who brought goods and proviſions into the city), ſhould have their cloaths according to thoſe pat⯑terns: and, in diſobedience to it, ſhould either pay a fine of twenty pence Engliſh, or be compelled to kneel down at the gates of the city, and have their coats cut off even with the ground, when they knelt; in con⯑ſequence [177] of which, many hundreds coats were cut; and, as it was done in good humour, it occaſioned mirth among the people, and ſoon broke the cuſtom of their wearing long coats. The women, but more particularly the ladies about court, were alſo ordered to reform the faſhion of their cloaths; and a reformation of Peter's, in another point, the ſooner reconciled them to this.

It had been an invariable cuſtom in Ruſſia, at all entertainments, for the women not to be admitted into the ſight or converſation of men; and, the very houſes of perſons of any quality, or faſhion, were built with an entrance for the women apart; and they uſed to be kept up ſeparate by themſelves. But the Czar, being not only willing to introduce Engliſh habits, but to make them more particularly pleaſing to the Ruſs ladies, made an order that, from thence-forward, at all weddings, and at other public entertainments, the women, as well as the men, ſhould be invited, but in an Engliſh-faſhioned dreſs; and that they ſhould then be entertained in the ſame room with the men.

From theſe circumſtances did the reform in their manners of dreſs take place; which has improved, with time; ſo that people of diſtinction now dreſs, as nearly as the climate will admit, after the Engliſh and French manner. The common people, who are, in general, a coarſe, hardy race, of great bodily ſtrength, are cloathed [178] ſtill with long coats, reaching below the knee, made of dreſſed ſheep-ſkins, with the wool inwards, trowſers of linen, almoſt as thick as ſackcloth, a woollen cloth wrapped round the legs to a great thickneſs, inſtead of ſtockings, ſandals, woven from ſlips of pliant bark, and faſtened by ſtrings of the ſame materials, which are afterwards twined round the leg, and ſerve as garters, over their legs, ſo ſwathed, they will often draw boots. In ſummer, the men will often wear coats and ſhirts only, and trowſers, but always ſwathe their legs. Their hair they ſuffer to hang down over the forehead, and cut it ſhort in the poll. Their caps, or hats, are round, with very high crowns, lined with fur, and cover their ears and neck, as well as their heads. They wear ſaſhes round their waiſt; and double gloves, one of woollen, and the other of leather, which take in the hand without any diſtinction, except the thumb; and theſe are alſo an eſſential part of their cloathing. The women, beſides their petticoats, wear ſheep-ſkins, as well as the men.

It had been the manner of the Ruſſians to wear long beards; but Peter, deſirous of making them like other Europeans, levied a tax upon his ſubjects, excepting only the prieſts, for the wearing of their beards; but, notwithſtanding theſe rigorous edicts, iſſued by Peter, the men, among the lower claſs, univerſally wear the beard.

[179]The women, in general, bind their heads with pieces of ſilk, or linen, ſo as to reſemble the Eaſtern tur⯑band; but, in other reſpects, in ſummer-time, dreſs like Europeans; excepting that they diſplay more lux⯑ury. Their dreſſes, particularly at court, as I before ob⯑ſerved, are more ſplendid, and more expenſive, than are ſeen any where elſe; all gold, ſilver, and jewels: but, ſays Mr. Marſhall, ſcarcely any taſte. They have, in their dreſſes, but one ambition; which is, to be as rich as poſſible; and to have a great change: but, as to having an idea of taſte and real elegance, even the nobility (continues he) ſeem not to know what it is.

[The plate repreſents, a peaſant bowing to a Ruſſian nobleman, after the manner of their country.]

Mr. Wraxall ſays, He was a ſpectator of one of their cuſtoms, which not a little ſurpriſed him; that of a promiſcuous bathing of more than 200 perſons of both ſexes. There are ſeveral of theſe public bathing-places in Peterſburgh; where every one pays a few copecs, or halfpence, for admittance; and bathe, once or twice a-week. There are, indeed, ſeparate places for the men and women; but they ſeem quite regard⯑leſs of this diſtinction, and ſit, or bathe, promiſcuouſly, quite naked. They go firſt into a room, heated to ſuch a degree, that it is ſcarce poſſible to breathe in it; and, after ſtaying in this room, till they are in a ſtrong perſpiration, either plunge into the cold water of the [180] river Neva, or throw a quantity of cold water over them, from little buckets, kept for the purpoſe.— This may harden a Ruſſian conſtitution, but would ill agree with an Engliſh one.

Mr. Coxe is more particular in deſcribing theſe baths, which are general all over Ruſſia. The common bath⯑ing-houſes are wooden buildings, of one room, cloſe to ſome river, with ſmall windows, like cottage-windows. This room, within, is provided with ranges of broad benches, placed, like ſteps, one above another, almoſt to the cieling. An old woman is generally the attend⯑ant of this room. On theſe benches, you will ſee num⯑bers of perſons naked; ſome lying on the benches, ſome ſitting, others ſtanding; ſome waſhing their bodies with ſoap, others rubbing themſelves with ſmall branches of oak-leaves, tied together like a rod; ſome pouring hot water on their heads, others cold water; whilſt the woman, having made a fire under an arch of granite-ſtone, about four feet high, ſprinkles water over this arch, when it is ſufficiently heated, and the vapour ariſing therefrom, heats the room almoſt beyond bear⯑ing. Some, exhauſted thus by the heat, go out and [...]nd in the open air, or throw themſelves into the river, to cool them. When a perſon goes ſingly to one of theſe baths, this old woman, having heated the room, ſtrips the bather, lays him on the bench, and lathers him with ſoap, from head to foot, then waſhes him, and dries him with napkins. This operation, renders [181] the body inſenſible to cold, even in the coldeſt weather; and communicates a glow of warmth, that continues the whole night.

In the month of December I was witneſs, ſays Mr. Coxe, to a very ſingular entertainment, given to the public, by a Ruſſian, who had acquired a large for⯑tune by farming, four years only, and vending ſpirituous liquors. On ſurrendering his contract, he gave, as a proof of his gratitude to the lower claſs of people, by whom he had enriched himſelf, a feaſt, in the garden of the ſummer-palace, which was announced by hand-bills, diſtributed through the city. A large, ſemi-cir⯑cular table, was covered with all kinds of proviſions, piled in different ſhapes, and in the greateſt profuſion. Large ſlices of bread and caviare, dried ſturgeon, carp, and other fiſh, were ranged to a great height, in the form of pent-houſes and pyramids, and garniſhed with craw-fiſh, onions and pickles. In different parts of the garden, were rows of caſks, full of ſpirituous liquors; and ſtill larger veſſels, of wines, beer, and quas. Among the decorations, was the repreſentation of an immenſe whale in paſteboard, covered with cloth, and gold and ſilver brocade, and filled within with bread, dried fiſh, and other proviſions.

All ſorts of games and diverſions were exhibited for the amuſement of the populace. At the extremity of the grounds, was a large ſquare of ice, well ſwept, for [182] the ſcaters; near which, were two machines, like the ſwinging vehicles at Bartholomew-fair. One of theſe machines conſiſted of two croſs beams, fixed horizontally to a pole, in the center, by means of a pivot; from the ends, hung four ſledges, in which the people ſeated themſelves, and were turned round with great velocity; the other had four wooden horſes, ſuſpended from the beams, and their riders were whirled round, in the like manner, as their rivals in the ſledges. Beyond theſe, were two ice-hills, ſuch as I have deſcribed below, and for the ſame diverſion. Two poles, above 20 feet high, were alſo erected, with colours flying; and, at the top of each, was placed a piece of money, as a prize for thoſe who could ſwarm up and ſeize it. The poles being rubbed with oil, ſoon froze, in this ſevere climate; and, of courſe, many and tedious were the attempts of the various competitors, in this ſlipping aſcent to fame. The ſcene was lively and gay; for above 40,000 perſons, of both ſexes, were aſſembled on the occaſion.

It had been pre-concerted, that, on the firing of a rocket, the people were to drink a glaſs of ſpirituous liquor; and, upon the diſcharge of a ſecond, to begin the repaſt. But the impatience of the populace anti⯑cipated the neceſſity of the ſecond ſignal; and the whole multitude was ſoon, and at once, in motion. The whale was the chief object of contention; within a few minutes, it was entirely diveſted of its gaudy trappings, [183] which became the ſpoils of its ſucceſsful invaders. They had no ſooner flea'd it of its drapery, and ſecured the fragments of rich brocades, than they rent him into a thouſand pieces, in order to ſeize the proviſions with which its inſide were ſtored. The remaining people, who were too numerous to be all engaged about the whale, were buſy in uncovering the pent-houſes, and pulling down the pyramids, in conveying provender with one hand to their mouths, and the other to their pockets. Others crowded round the caſks and hogſheads, and, with great wooden ladles, lapped inceſſantly wine, beer, and ſpirits. The confuſion and riot which ſoon ſucceeded, is better conceived than deſcribed. The evening was cloſed with a ſuperb illumination of the gardens, and a magnificent fire-work.

But, the conſequences of this feaſt, were dreadful. The cold had ſuddenly increaſed with ſuch violence, that Fahrenheit's thermometer, which, at mid-day, ſtood only at 4, ſunk, towards the cloſe of the evening, to 15 below the freezing point; conſequently, many intox⯑icated perſons were frozen to death; not a few fell a ſacrifice to drunken quarrels; and others, were robbed and murdered, in the more retired parts of the city, as they were returning home late. From a compariſon of the various reports, at leaſt 400 perſons loſt their lives, on this melancholy occaſion. Murders uſed to be frequent in Peterſburgh; but the police is now ſo well regulated, that we ſeldom hear of one. Among [184] other parts of the police, no apothecary dares ſell a me⯑dicine, unleſs a regular preſcription is brought him, ſigned by a phyſician—a law very beneficial to the faculty, and not without its uſe. Another regulation here, not without its advantages, though troubleſome, is, that no ſtranger can quit the capital, to paſs the frontiers, without having been firſt advertiſed in all the public papers, for 10 days preceding his departure, let his buſineſs, or his affairs, be ever ſo urgent. Peterſburgh, however, being no thoroughfare, the in⯑convenience is not ſo great as one would ſuppoſe.

Nothing can be more lively and diverſified than the winter-ſcenes upon the Neva. Many carriages and ſledges, and numberleſs foot — paſſengers, perpetually croſſing it, afford a conſtant ſucceſſion of moving ob⯑jects; and the ice is alſo covered with different groupes of people, diſperſed, or gathered together, and variouſly employed, as fancy leads them. In one part, we ſee ſeveral long areas, railed off, for the purpoſe of ſcat⯑ing; a little further, an encloſure, wherein a nobleman is training his horſes, and teaching them the various evolutions of the managed. In another part, the crowd are ſpectators of what is called a ſledge-race. The courſe is an oblong ſpace, about the length of a mile, and ſufficiently broad to turn a carriage. It can hardly be called a race, for there is only a ſingle ſledge, drawn by two horſes; and, the whole art of the driver, con⯑ſiſts in making the ſhaft-horſe trot as faſt as he can, whilſt the other is puſhed into a gallop.

[185]The ice-hills I have mentioned, are exceedingly common, and afford a perpetual fund of amuſement to the populace. They are in imitation of the Flying-Mountain, at the palace of Peterhof; and are con⯑ſtructed in the following manner:—A ſcaffolding is raiſed upon the river, about 30 feet high, with a land⯑ing-place on the top, the aſcent to which is by a lad⯑der. From this top, a ſloping plain of boards, about four yards broad, and 30 yards long, deſcends to the ſurface to the river, ſupported by ſtrong uprights, or poles, gradually decreaſing in height; and its ſides de⯑fended by a parapet of planks. On theſe boards are laid ſquare pieces of ice, about four inches thick, which, being firſt ſmoothed with an axe, and laid cloſe to each other, are then ſprinkled with water. By theſe means they unite, and adhering to the boards, immediately form an inclined plain of pure ice. From the bottom of this plain, the ſnow is cleared away, for the length of 200 yards, and the breadth of four yards. The level end of the river, and the ſides of this courſe, as well as the ſides and top of the ſcaffolding, are orna⯑mented with firs and pines. Each perſon being pro⯑vided with a ſledge, reſembling our butcher's tray, mounts the ladder, and, when on the top of the ſcaf⯑fold, ſeats himſelf in this ſledge, or tray, at the upper end of the inclined plane, down which he ſlides with conſiderable rapidity, poiſing it as he goes down; when the velocity acquired by the deſcent, carries it on above 100 yards, on the level ice below. At the end of this [186] courſe, there is a ſimilar ice-hill, nearly parallel to to the former, which begins where the other ends; ſo that the perſon immediately mounts again, and glides down as on the firſt, and ſo on; and this diverſion he continues, as long as he pleaſes. The difficulty of this paſtime conſiſts in ſteering and balancing the ſledge, as it is hurried down the inclined plane; for, if the perſon in it, does not ſit ſteady, but totters, through inad⯑vertency, or fear, he is liable to be overthrown, and runs no ſmall riſque of breaking his limbs, if not his neck▪ The boys, alſo, will ſcate down this hill, on one ſcate; and are better able to poiſe themſelves on one leg, than on two. Theſe ice-hills exhibit a pleaſing appearance on the river, as well from the trees with which they are or⯑namented, as from the moving objects, which, at par⯑ticular times of the day, are ſliding down, without in⯑termiſſion.

The game of cheſs is ſo common throughout Ruſſia, that tradeſmen, and common people, at Moſcow, are ſeen playing in the ſtreet, at their ſhop-doors.

The market, on the Neva, has been deſcribed before.

The cottages of the peaſants are conſtructed in a ſquare ſhape; are formed of whole trees, piled upon each other, and ſecured at the corners, where the ends meet, with mortaſſes and tenons, and the ſpaces between the trees are ſtuffed with moſs. Within, the timbers [187] are ſmoothed with the axe, ſo as to reſemble wainſcot; but are left without in their rude ſtate, with the bark on. The roofs are in the penthouſe ſtile, compoſed of the bark of trees, or ſhingles, and covered with turf. They uſually raiſe the whole houſe, without the aſſiſt⯑ance of a ſaw; the axe, or hatchet, being their chief inſtrument. They finiſh the ſhell and roof of the houſe, before they cut out the windows, which are merely openings, a few inches ſquare, cloſed with ſliding ſhut⯑ters; and the door is generally ſo low, as not to admit a middle-ſized man, without ſtooping. Sometimes, though rarely, theſe cottages conſiſt of two ſtories; in which caſe, they make the lower apartment a kind of ſtore-room, and live in the upper, mounting to it by a ladder. In the villages, the ſcite of the houſes is ge⯑nerally an oblong ſquare, ſurrounding an area, encloſed with a high, wooden wall, with a penthouſe roof; the whole reſembling a large barn. In one angle of this encloſure, ſtands the houſe, fronting the ſtreet, with the ſtair-caſe (where there are two ſtories) on the outſide, the door opening underneath the penthouſe roof.

The furniture conſiſts chiefly, of a wooden table, or dreſſer, and benches faſtened to the ſides of the room; on which laſt the family ſleeps, in their cloaths, pro⯑miſcuouſly, almoſt in a ſtate of nature, and frequently with their heads hanging off the bench. The utenſils are, platters, bowls, ſpoons, &c. all wood, with, per⯑haps, one large, earthen pan, in which they cook their [188] victuals, over a ſtove erected in the middle. Some houſes have openings in the roof, to let out the ſmoke, ſome none.

In the midſt of every room hangs, from the cieling, a veſſel of holy water, and a lamp, which is lighted, on particular occaſions. Every houſe has a picture of ſome ſaint, coarſely daubed on wood, reſembli [...] more a Kalmuck idol, than a human head: to this the high⯑eſt marks of veneration are paid. All the members of the family, the inſtant they riſe, and before they go to reſt, ſtanding before it, and croſſing themſelves, on the ſides and forehead, for ſeveral minutes, bowing very low, and often proſtrating themſelves on the ground before it. Every perſon, alſo on entering the room, pays his obeiſance firſt to this object of worſhip.

Perry ſays, that, in bowing to this picture, they croſs themſelves, and cry—Hoſpi [...] [...]mi [...]io; that is, ‘Lord, have mercy upon me;’—and, if it happens in a poor man's houſe, who has but one picture, and the room is either dark, or the painting ſo effaced, or co⯑vered with ſmoke, ſo as not to be immediately viſible to ſtrangers, a perſon entering, will preſently aſk— Ogdea Boag? "Where is God?" — which being ſhewn to him, he will immediately reverence it, as before.

Their food is black rye-bread, ſometimes white; eggs, ſalt-fiſh, bacon, muſhrooms, and a kind of [189] hodge-podge, made of ſalt, or freſh meat, groats, and rye-flour, highly ſeaſoned with garlick and onions. Their bread they alſo ſtuff with onions and groats, car⯑rots, or green corn; in order to render it more pala⯑table, and ſeaſon it with ſweet oil. Muſhrooms are ſo exceedingly common in this country, as to form a very eſſential part of their proviſions. I ſeldom entered a cottage, ſays Mr. Coxe, but I ſaw a great quantity of them; nor did I ever paſs a market, but I was aſto⯑niſhed at their vaſt abundance, and of all colours, white, black, brown, yellow, green and pink. The common drink of the peaſants, is Quas, a fermented liquor, ſomething like ſweet-wort, made, by pouring warm water on rye, or barley-meal, and is deemed an excel⯑lent antiſcorbutic. They are extremely fond of whiſky, a ſpirituous liquor, diſtilled from malt, which the poor⯑eſt can occaſionally command, and which they often uſe to exceſs.

The backwardneſs of the Ruſſian peaſants, in all the mechanical arts, when compared with thoſe of other nations, is viſible to every one. Near Peterſburgh, they are ſomewhat better furniſhed with the conveniences of life, and their cottages are rather better conſtructed; but ſtill, their progreſs towards civilization, is very in⯑conſiderable. I will mention one inſtance, ſays Coxe, becauſe it will ſhew, into what a wretched ſtate of ig⯑norance, the common claſs of people are ſtill plunged. In many families, the father marries the ſon, whilſt a [190] boy of ſeven, eight or nine years old, to a girl of a more advanced age; in order, as it is ſaid, to procure able-bodied women for domeſtic ſervices. He cohabits with this perſon, now become his daughter-in-law, and fre⯑quently has ſeveral children by her; ſo that, in ſome cottages, there are two miſtreſſes of a family; one, the peaſant's real wife, who is old enough to be his mother; and the other, nominally, the ſon's wife; but, in reality, the father's concubine.

Certain peaſants, called Yamſhics, are obliged to fur⯑niſh horſes, at a fixed rate, for travelling, and are allowed particular privileges for ſo doing; namely, exemptions from the poll-tax, or ſerving as ſoldiers: but, not⯑withſtanding theſe immunities, the price for each horſe, being but from one halfpenny Engliſh to three half-pence, for each verſt, or three-quarters of a mile, they produce their horſes with great reluctance. The inſtant a traveller demands a freſh ſupply of horſes, the Yam⯑ſhics aſſemble, in crowds, and frequently wrangle and quarrel to ſuch a degree, as to afford great amuſement to one not impatient to ſet off. An hour is often ſpent in ſuch diſputes; and the poſt-maſter is frequently ob⯑liged to ſettle them, by obliging the Yamſhics to draw lots, who ſhall furniſh the horſes. The only mode of travelling with comfort, is, by having a Ruſs ſoldier with you, which can be procured with the paſs-port. This ſoldier, immediately on his arrival at the poſt-houſe, inſtead of attending to the arguments of the [191] Yamſhics, or waiting for the mediation of the poſt-maſter, ſummarily decides the buſineſs, by the argu⯑mentum baculinum, or, the powerful interpoſition of the cudgel.

The peaſants act in capacity of coachmen and poſ⯑tilions. They always harneſs four horſes a-breaſt; and, commonly, put eight, and ſometimes ten to a carriage; the ſtages being generally from 20 to 30 miles long, and the roads extremely bad. They ſeldom uſe either boots, or ſaddles; and have no kind of ſtirrup, but a rope, doubled, and thrown acroſs the horſe's back. Each horſe is equipped with a ſ [...]affle-bridle, ſeldom put into the mouth, but hanging looſe under it. Their general method of driving, is by ſtarts and bounds, not an even pace, ſeldom trotting their horſes, but often galloping them, even in the worſt roads; and as often checking their ſpeed on the moſt level ground. A common piece of rope ſerves them for a whip, as they urge their horſes on, hooting and whiſtling, like cat-calls. The intervals of theſe noiſes are filled with ſing⯑ing, to which the natives have a great propenſity. No ſooner are the poſtilions mounted, but they will begin to warble an air, and often continue it, without inter⯑miſſion, for hours: nay, they will, occaſionally, ſing in parts, and in a kind of muſical dialogue, chanting, as it were, their common converſation. Thus, the poſtilions ſing from the beginning to the end of a ſtage; the ſoldiers ſing, during their march; the countrymen [192] ſing, during the moſt laborious occupations; the pub⯑lic-houſes re-echo with their carrols; and, in a ſtill evening, the air will vibrate with the notes of ſurround⯑ing villages.

St [...]hlin, who reſided a long time in Ruſſia, and who has turned his attention to the ſtudy of the national muſic, gives us the following information, on this cu⯑rious ſubject.—The general muſic that prevails among the common people in Ruſſia, from the Duna to the Amur, and the Frozen Ocean, conſiſts in one ſpecies of ſimple melody, which admits of infinite variation, ac⯑cording to the ability of the ſinger, or the cuſtom of the ſeveral provinces in this extenſive empire. The words of the ſongs are moſtly in proſe, and often extem⯑pore, according to the immediate invention, or recol⯑lection of the ſinger; perhaps an ancient legend, the hiſtory of an enormous giant, a declaration of love, a dialogue between a lover and his miſtreſs, a murder, or a beautiful girl; ſometimes, they are merely letters and ſyllables, taken from ſome old accidence, metri⯑cally arranged, but ſeldom in rhyme, and adapted to this general air: theſe latter words are chiefly uſed by mothers, in ſinging to their children; while boors, at the ſame time, perform their national dance to the ſame tune, accompanied with inſtrumental muſic. The ſub⯑ject of the ſong ſhall alſo, frequently, allude to the for⯑mer adventures of the ſinger, or his preſent ſituation; and, the peaſants will adapt the topics of their common [193] diſcourſe, and their diſputes with each other, to this general air, which, altogether, forms an extraordinary effect, and leads one to ſuppoſe that they chaunt their ordinary converſation.

In their common intercourſe, the peaſants are, as I have obſerved, very polite to each other. In higher life, the gentlemen bow very low, and the ladies incline their heads, inſtead of curteſying. Sometimes, the gen⯑tlemen kiſs the ladies hands, as a mark of reſpect; and, if the parties are well-acquainted, or of equal con⯑dition, or if the lady is diſpoſed to pay a compliment, ſhe will ſalute the gentleman's cheek, whilſt he is kiſſing her hand; and, frequently, whilſt ſhe ſtoops to touch his cheek, he takes that opportunity of ſaluting her. If the gentleman is a perſon of very high rank, the lady offers firſt to kiſs his hand, which he prevents, by ſa⯑luting her cheek. Men, particularly relations, exchange ſalutes in this manner, each kiſſing the other's hand at the ſame inſtant, and afterwards their cheeks.

In their uſual mode of addreſs, the Ruſſians never prefix any title, or appellation of reſpect, to their names; but perſons of all ranks, even thoſe of the firſt diſtinction, call each other by their chriſtian names; to which they add a patronymick. Theſe patronymicks are formed, in ſome caſes, by adding Vitch (ſimilar to our Fitz) to the chriſtian name of the father; in others, by of, or Ef. The former is applied only to [194] perſons of condition; the latter, to thoſe of inferior rank. Thus:

• Ivan Ivanovitch
• Ivan Ivanof

is, Ivan, the ſon of Ivan; and ſo on.

The female patronymick, is Efna, or Ofna: as, Sophia-Alexe-Efna, or, Sophia, the daughter of Alexey; Maria Ivanofna, or, Maria, the daughter of Ivan.

Great families are diſtinguiſhed, in general, by a ſur⯑name; as thoſe of Romanof, Galitzin, Sheremetof, &c.

The houſes of the nobility are furniſhed with great elegance; and, their ſuites of apartments, where they receive company, are uncommonly ſplendid.

Their grounds are prettily laid out, in the ſtile of our parks, with gentle ſlopes, ſpacious lawns, ſcattered plantations, and water, fringed with wood; moſt of the Ruſſian nobles having Engliſh gardeners, and reſign⯑ing themſelves implicitly to their direction.

The Engliſh merchants live in a very ſocial, and even ſplendid manner. Beſides conſtant meetings at their reſpective houſes, they have, once a fortnight, a re⯑gular aſſembly, in a houſe hired for the purpoſe, to which they obligingly invite all their countrymen, who happen to be at Peterſburgh, and, occaſionally, ſome Ruſſian ladies. Here is a ball, cards, and ſupper.

[195]The great road from Moſcow to Peterſburgh is con⯑tinued, during a ſpace of 500 miles, almoſt in a ſtraight line, cut through a foreſt, and is extremely tedious; on each ſide, the trees are cleared away, to the breadth of 40 or 50 paces; and, the whole way lies chiefly through endleſs tracts of wood, only broken by villages, round which, to a ſmall diſtance, the grounds are open and cultivated. This road is of a uniform breadth, and formed in the following manner. Trunks of trees are laid handſomely in rows, parallel to each other, and are bound down in the centre, and at each end, by long poles, or beams, faſtened into the ground with wooden pegs; theſe trunks are ſometimes covered with boards, like a flooring, and ſometimes with layers of boughs, ſtrewed over with ſand, or earth. Hanway has made a calculation, and ſays, that 100 miles of ſuch road, takes up 2,100,000 trees. Whilſt the road is new, it is remarkably good; but as the trunks de⯑cay, or ſink, or as the ſand, or ground, is waſhed off, as is the caſe often for miles together, it is full of holes and ridges, and, of courſe, very rough to travel on. The villages, which occaſionally line this route, are all like each other, a ſingle ſtreet, with wooden cottages, and here and there a brick houſe.

The common carriages of this country, are called Kibitkis. A kibitki is a ſmall cart, capable of contain⯑ing two perſons a-breaſt, whilſt the driver ſits on the further extremity, cloſe to the horſes tails. It is formed [196] like a child's cradle, about five feet long, and the hinder part covered with a tilt, made of laths, and interwoven with birch-bark, but open in front: there is not a piece of iron in the whole machine. It has no ſprings, and is faſtened together by wooden pins, ropes and ſticks to the four wheels, the boxes of which are of an extra-ordinary length, and project above a foot beyond the orbit of the wheels. The Ruſſians, when they travel in theſe carriages, place a feather-bed in the bottom, and, with this precaution, the roughneſs of the roads is not felt, and a traveller, ſtretched on this bed, may doze away a journey in perfect tranquillity; and, that he may know how far he travels, each verſt, or three-fourths of an Engliſh mile, is marked, all through the high roads of Ruſſia, by a poſt, 12 feet high, and painted red.

When the Empreſs travels, ſhe is drawn in a large machine, like a room, which contains her bed, a table, and other conveniences, where four perſons may ſit to dinner. This machine, in winter, is ſet on a ſledge, and drawn by 24 poſt-horſes. If any of them fail on the roads, others are ready to ſupply their place; and there are ſeveral ſmall palaces on the roads ſhe travels, where ſhe ſometimes ſleeps, and refreſhes herſelf. Peter the Great once travelled from Moſcow to Peterſburgh, 488 Engliſh miles, in 46 hours; but it is eaſily per⯑formed, in three days and a half. The Empreſs, as ſhe travels by night as well as day, is conducted on by the light of fires, blazing on eminences by the road-ſide. Theſe fires are great piles of wood, placed there for the purpoſe; and the road, where the country is open, is marked out by fir-trees, planted on both ſides, at the diſtance of 20 yards from each other.

[198]It was formerly a cuſtom, in Ruſſia, with reſpect to marriage, for the match to be made up between the parents on each ſide, without any previous meeting, conſent, or liking of one another, and often before the parties were of ſufficient age to judge for themſelves; but Peter I. taking into conſideration this unacceptable way of joining young people together, without their own approbation, and to which might be owing, a great deal of that diſcord, and little love, ſhewn to each other; it being a common thing, in Ruſſia, for huſbands to beat their wives cruelly, ſo as often to kill them, which the law winked at; and, of courſe, led wives often to murder their huſbands in revenge, for which they were buried up to the neck, and thus left, guarded, to ſtarve to death. The Czar, too often a witneſs to theſe ſad ſights, in pity to his people, enacted a law, that no young couple ſhould be married, without their own free conſent; and, that all perſons ſhould be admitted to viſit, and ſee each other, at leaſt ſix weeks before they were married. This regulation pleaſed the Ruſ⯑ſians much, and has been the means of their adopting other foreign cuſtoms, which before they ſet their faces againſt.

They have many whimſical notions, reſpecting the ſtate of the dead. When a corpſe is dreſt, a prieſt is ſent for, to pray for its ſoul, to purify it with in⯑cenſe, and ſprinkle it with holy water. After keeping it eight or ten days above ground, thus purifying it [199] daily, the prieſt produces a ticket, ſigned by the biſhop, and another clergyman, as a paſsport to Heaven, and the body is carried to the grave, with many geſticu⯑lations of ſorrow. Being interred, the mourners re⯑turn, and drown their ſorrow in intoxication; which, among the opulent, laſts, with few intermiſſions, for 40 days. During this time, the prieſt ſays prayers daily over the grave of the deceaſed; for, though the Ruſ⯑ſians do not believe in purgatory, they conceive, their departed friend may be aſſiſted on his way to Heaven, by prayers.

CHAP. IV. On their Population and Trade.

LITTLE RUSSIA, in general, is a very level and fertile country, abounding in all the neceſ⯑ſaries of human life. The air is ſerene and good, with not the 20th part of the fogs, and a fifth part leſs rain than we have in England, The Ruſſes have a ſaying, That they are very rich in fiſh, and in bread; and, it may be added, that they have good ſtore of horſes, of cattle, and of wild game.

We are not to look for that population in Ruſſia, that we meet with in the eaſtern countries of Europe. If ſuch was to be found, this empire, which is [200] of a much greater extent than that of the Romans, would be as powerful alſo; but the common ideas, of its being all a deſart, we have already ſeen carried too far. In Siberia there are rich meadows, 100 miles ſquare. It is very badly peopled, taking the whole to⯑gether; but many of the provinces are very populous, much of the territory in a good ſtate of culture, and the appearance of it, in many parts, flouriſhing; to this may be added, the great increaſe of people, con⯑ſtantly gaining by the reception and encouragement given to foreigners to ſettle, who flock here in whole troops. This encouragement, which the Empreſs al⯑ways grants, conſiſts in ſeveral very important articles. All the expences of the journey, or voyage, from their native country, are borne by her; ſhe feeds, and ſup⯑ports them, by the way. On their arrival at the ter⯑ritory appointed them to cultivate, which has always been part of the crown lands, every family has a cot⯑tage erected at her expence, to which they contribute la⯑bour. They are next furniſhed with implements ne⯑ceſſary for cultivation, and one year's proviſion for the whole family; and they are exempted from all taxes, for five years. Thus, ſince the acceſſion of the preſent Czarina, to the year 1770, upwards of ſix hundred thouſand perſons, Germans, Poles, and Greeks from Turkey, have ſettled in Ruſſia. From the courts of Germany, ſhip-loads at a time; and, from Poland and Turkey, whole towns, and diſtricts; and, as all the promiſes that have been made to them (and even more), [201] have been inviolably kept, and freſh ſettlers are con⯑tinually pouring in, there is no doubt but, by this time, ſhe has upwards of 1,200,000 new ſubjects, which muſt annually encreaſe the trade, revenues, and power, of this country.

The product, or manufactures of Ruſſia, which con⯑ſtitutes its commerce with other nations, is pot-aſh, wood-aſh, Ruſſia leather, furs, linen, thread, flax, hemp, ſeal-ſkins, train-oil, roſin, pitch, tar, caviare, tallow, honey, wax, iſinglaſs for glue and ſhip win⯑dows, ſoap, feathers, muſk, rhubarb, and other drugs; alſo, maſts, timber, plank and firs. To theſe articles of trade, may be added, the produce of their iron and copper mines; and the raw ſilk they bring from China, to which place they carry on a trade by land, in caravans, carrying out furs, and bringing back tea, ſilk, cottons, gold, &c.

Ruſſia has made great ſtrides in the improvement of her commerce, for ſeveral years paſt, enjoying ſome advantages beyond any other nation. The number and greatneſs of her rivers opens a communication almoſt to every part of the globe; but particularly within her own extended dominions. As to timber, hemp and iron, which are the inſtrumental cauſes of trade, no country in the world produces a greater quantity; which is a natural conſequence of the cheapneſs of land and labour.

[202]It ſeems to be a maxim, eſtabliſhed in all countries where commerce has made any progreſs, that the value of exports muſt exceed that of the imports; otherwiſe, the balance muſt neceſſarily be paid in money. Againſt this, the Ruſſians, though they have both ſilver and gold mines, and of courſe bullion ſhould be con⯑ſidered as a commodity, have taken the precaution to make it next to death, to export their coin; nor can any plate, or bullion, be carried out of the country, but by expreſs permiſſion. In its commerce with England, the balance of trade is greatly againſt us.

The cuſtom-houſe books of Peterſburgh and Cron⯑ſtadt, contain the following accounts for 1788:

Exports

20,351,937 rubles

Imports

15,474,396 ditto

forming a balance of nearly five millions in their favour.

There is an Engliſh factory at Peterſburgh, which was, in the reign of Mary I. eſtabliſhed at Archangel, but removed to Peterſburg, ſoon after its foundation, and half the trade of that city is in the hands of the Engliſh; yet the Ruſſian trade, in the Baltic, is car⯑ried on alſo at Riga, Revel, Narva, and Wiburgh. From Riga, a conſiderable quantity of corn is export⯑ed, by the Engliſh, Swedes, and Dutch.

[203]Though the Engliſh engroſs ſo much of the Ruſſian trade, it is but juſtice to obſerve, that there are no monopolies, or excluſive privileges, aſſumed by the Ruſſia company; nor any rule of conduct eſtabliſhed, which has the leaſt appearance of bringing diſcredit to this nation; for any natural-born ſubject may, for 5l. take his freedom of the company, go into Ruſſia, and eſtabliſh a houſe of buſineſs, under the protection of the Britiſh Crown, and may ſend Ruſſian goods into Eng⯑land, paying the legal duties.

The Engliſh having opened a trade with the Per⯑ſians, acroſs the Caſpian ſea, in which they were inter⯑rupted in 1747, the Ruſſians purſued their track, with perſeverance. The Caſpian ſea, I have had occaſion to mention before: I will only obſerve, now, that it is about 680 miles long, and 260 miles broad, has no tide, but one ſmall iſland in it, uninhabited; that its water is ſalt, and that, on account of its numberleſs ſhal⯑lows, it is navigable only by veſſels drawing from ſeven to ten feet water. The Ruſſian ports, on this ſea, are, Gurjef, at the mouth of the Jaik; and Kiſlar, on the eaſtern coaſts. The havens, on the oppoſite ſide, be⯑long to Perſia.

The principal commodities exported by the Ruſſians to Perſia, are, Engliſh, Dutch, French, and Siberian cloths; vitriol, ſoap, allum, ſugar, Ruſſia leather, needles, coarſe, Ruſſia linen, velvets, glaſs-ware, paper, [204] furs, ſkins, tea, proviſions, furniture, iron, braſs, tin, lead, hardware, watches, &c. and thoſe imported are, raw and manufactured ſilks, Bucharian lamb-ſkins, rice, dried fruits, ſpices, drugs, ſaffron, ſalt, ſulphur, and naptha; alſo, gold and ſilver in bars, gold-duſt, pre⯑cious ſtones, and pearls.

With the Bucharians, who inhabit the ſouth-weſtern part of Independent Tartary, and who are a very com⯑mercial people (their caravans travelling through the whole continent of Aſia, trafficking with Thibet, China, India, and Perſia), the Ruſſians trade largely; but the Chineſe trade, carried on at Kiachta, as we have ſeen, and ſituated on the frontiers of the Chineſe and Ruſ⯑ſian empires, is by far the moſt important of all Ruſſia's Aſiatic commerce; the groſs amount of this trade, in exports and imports, reaching to near 800,000l. ſterling, per annum.

The Ruſſians carry on alſo a commerce with the Turks upon the Black Sea, which, in times of peace, is very conſiderable. Their great wiſh is to eſtabliſh an intercourſe with the parts of the Mediterranean, through the Dardanelles. This trade, as the Ruſſians had not till lately any port on the Black Sea, was car⯑ried on by the Greeks, Armenians, and Turks. The imports were, Greek wines, raiſins, dried figs, almonds, oil, rice, ſaffron, painted linens, and cottons; the ex⯑ports, hides and leather, coarſe linen, hard-ware, ca⯑viare, [205] &c. Theſe Greek and Armenian merchants, re⯑turning to Conſtantinople, ſupplied the ports of the ſea of Azof, and the Euxine, with Ruſſian and European commodities.

The mines of Siberia have been already treated of; to ſpeak more, would be needleſs. I will then take notice of the new canal of Viſhnei-Voloſhof, cut by Peter, and improved by the preſent Empreſs, which opens a communication between the Caſpian ſea and the Baltic. Indeed, there is no kingdom on the globe, wherein the inland-navigation is carried through ſuch an extent of country as in Ruſſia; for it is poſſible to convey goods, by water, 4,472 miles from the fron⯑tiers of China to Peterſburgh, with an interruption only of about 60 miles; and from Aſtrachan to the ſame capital, through a tract of 1,434 miles, without once landing them. A plan was alſo ſet on foot, to open a communication alſo with the Black Sea, by means of a canal; and Captain Perry, an Engliſh engineer, was actually employed for the purpoſe. The canal was begun, and the length of a mile and a half cut, but it then dropped, from an idea, that it was not practicable. The preſent Empreſs, however, revived it; and em⯑ployed Profeſſor Lovitz to undertake it. He took a level of the ground, and traced out the canal, which required to be only five miles long. The great diffi⯑culty, was how to procure a ſufficient ſupply of water. However, it again fell to the ground, Profeſſor Lovitz being wantonly murdered, by the rebel Pugatchef.

CHAP. V. Of their Learning, Inſtitutions, &c.

HITHERTO the Ruſſians have made but an in⯑conſiderable appearance in the republic of let⯑ters; but the late inſtitutions of academies, and other learned ſeminaries, have given riſe to a number of ſci⯑entific papers, which have been very favourably re⯑ceived all over Europe; and are the beſt teſt of their growing eminence in arts and ſciences. Three colleges were founded by Peter I. at Moſcow; one for claſſical learning and philoſophy, one for mathematics, and a third for navigation and aſtronomy: to theſe he added a diſpenſary. Lately, a univerſity has been there found⯑ed; and the preſent Empreſs has founded one at Peterſburgh, with 23 profeſſors; and two ſeminaries, where youth are taught Greek, Latin, Ruſs, German, Italian, French and Tartar; hiſtory, geography, mathe⯑matics, architecture, fortification, artillery, algebra, drawing, painting, muſic, fencing, dancing, reading and writing.

The Imperial Academy of Sciences at Peterſburgh, owes its inſtitution to Peter I. Catharine I. ſettled a fund of 5000l. a-year on it, and 15 perſons, men emi⯑nent for learning and talents, were appointed profeſſors, and the preſent Empreſs has largely encouraged it.

[207]An Academy of Arts is alſo here eſtabliſhed, with a revenue of 12,000l, a-year, which brings up 300 ſcho⯑lars, from the age of ſix to eighteen. They are cloathed, fed and lodged, at the expence of the Crown; are in⯑ſtructed in reading, writing, arithmetic, drawing, French, and German. At 14, they may chuſe any of the fol⯑lowing arts; painting, architecture, engraving, carv⯑ing, watch-making, turning, caſting ſtatues, gilding, and making artificial gems. Prizes are annually diſtri⯑buted to the beſt proficients; and 12 of thoſe who have obtained four prizes, are ſent abroad, for four years, at the expence of the Crown.

There is alſo, at Peterſburgh, a free Oeconomical Society for the Encouragement of Agriculture, well endowed; and, in the true ſpirit of this inſtitution, ſeveral young men are annually ſent to England, to learn huſbandry. Here is alſo eſtabliſhed a mode of making experiments in agriculture, as ſingular in its kind, as it is praiſe-worthy and political. At a place called Sophiſk, is a farm of about 1000 acres, which is provided with dwelling-houſes, and other neceſſary buidings. Here, a clergyman of learning and abilities, who ſtudied huſbandry many years in England, is ſet⯑tled; and, under him, as aſſiſtants, ſeveral young men, who have been educated in England. Every ſpecies of huſbandry is to be introduced; and lectures on the theory and practice given. From each ſeminary of the empire, two children of prieſts, who are likely to ſuc⯑ceed [208] their fathers in their benefices, are to be placed, in this rural eſtabliſhment, to learn farming, ſo as to be able to teach their pariſhioners. Any nobleman, deſirous to improve his tenants, may ſend a young man alſo to this ſchool to learn.

In Peterſburgh, alſo, there are two ſeminaries for the education of the nobility: one for boys, called, Corps de Cadets; the other for girls, called, Le Couvent des Demoiſelles nobles.

In the firſt, the number of perſons reſiding in the houſe, including the cadets, is 2000: the annual in⯑come is 30,000l. for the reception of 600 ſcholars. In 1778, there were 480 nobles, and 64 boys of inferior rank, bred up to be tutors to noblemen's children. The nobles are dreſſed in uniform, and are intended for the army; they are received at ſix, and remain 15, years, and are taught French, German, and all military ac⯑compliſhments. In the ſummer, they are encamped, for ſix weeks, near the town, are reviewed, and taught all the manoeuvres of war. Some are annually ſe⯑lected, according to their merit, to travel into foreign countries. The boys are all brought up in the har⯑dieſt manner, not clad in furs, even in winter, nor too much indulged with warmth. They are habituated to all kinds of exerciſes, and particularly to running and leaping. At the further end of a large hall, ſtands a leather horſe, ſome parts of which are ſix feet high. [209] This they leap over in every direction, ſpring on its head, vault upon its back, turn themſelves round upon it, poiſe themſelves upon their hands, with their head upon the ſaddle, and their feet in the air; and then throw themſelves on their feet upon the ground. Once or twice, in the winter, theſe cadets are permitted to give a maſquerade and ball, to the principal nobility; and, on theſe occaſions, ſome of the young ladies, from the female ſeminary, are invited as partners to the bigger boys.

The female ſeminary is a large building, erected for a nunnery. It was opened, on its preſent plan, in 1764; and is endowed, by the Empreſs, with a revenue of 16,000l. a-year. It receives 250 nobles, and 280 tradeſmen's daughters. The girls are admitted at five years of age, and kept till 18. Theſe two claſſes are differently taught, according to their rank. The whole ſociety is taught reading, writing, accounts, and nee⯑dle-work. The young ladies learn hiſtory, geography, French, German, Italian, dancing, muſic, and draw⯑ing. The other girls are employed in houſhold-affairs. They prepare, and waſh their own linen; are taught to make bread, and the art of cookery. Once a-year, 100 poor women dine in their hall, and are attended by the oldeſt ladies of the ſeminary; to each of whom, theſe ladies give a piece of ſilver coin, and a few yards of linen, to teach them to adminiſter to the wants of others. Within their walls, they have a theatre, where theſe [210] young folks act plays; and, at certain times, are per⯑mitted to invite their friends, and ſome few of the ca⯑dets, to a ball and ſupper.

Backward, however, as the Ruſſians are in learn⯑ing, this country can boaſt the earlieſt hiſtorian of the north; for, at a period when Poland, Sweden, and Denmark, were unlettered, when even the annaliſts of Iceland were mute, a monk of a convent at Kiof, was compiling a hiſtory of Ruſſia; he died in 1115, and, ſince him, there have been some eminent writers in hiſtory, and the different ſciences. But, in order to ſpread a taſte for literature among her ſubjects, Catharine appointed in 1768, a committee, to order and ſuper⯑intend tranſlations of the claſſics, and the beſt modern authors, into the Ruſſian tongue; and allowed 1000l. a-year, towards defraying the expence of the undertak⯑ing. In conſequence of this, 83 books were tranſlated, before 1778; tranſlations were then making of 78 more, and 63 were propoſed to be tranſlated.

With reſpect to claſſical literature, the Greek lan⯑guage is yet taught in very few ſchools, is ſcarcely known to the laity, and is a rare qualification even among the regular clergy. Latin is more common, being under⯑ſtood by many of the regular clergy, and not unfre⯑quently cultivated by perſons of improved education. Many of the claſſics have been tranſlated, by natives, into the Ruſſian tongue. Several editions of the moſt [211] approved Greek and Roman authors, have been pub⯑liſhed at Moſcow and Peterſburgh; but the editors have been chiefly foreigners, encouraged to it by the Ruſſian nobility. The archbiſhops, however, of Moſcow and Kherſon, are men of profound learning, and good, Greek ſcholars.

The common language of Ruſſia is a mixture of the Poliſh with the Schlavonian; their prieſts, and learned men, ſpeak, what is called, modern Greek, which thoſe who are well acquainted with the ancient Greek, may very well underſtand. The forms of the Ruſs letters, have alſo a ſtrong reſemblance to the old Greek alphabet.

CHAP. VI. Of their Religion.

THE eſtabliſhed religion of Ruſſia is that of the Greek church, which is a kind of reform from the Romiſh church. They diſclaim image-worſhip; but yet have a number of pictures of ſaints in their churches and houſes, to which they pay veneration; but only, as they ſay, under the idea of mediators. They deny the Pope's ſupremacy, yet obſerve a num⯑ber of faſts and lents. They oblige their biſhops, but not their prieſts, to celibacy, who have no fixed in⯑come [212] for their ſupport, but depend on the voluntary contributions of their flocks. Nunneries and monaſte⯑ries were once very frequent; but many are now abo⯑liſhed, and the abuſes of thoſe that remain very much removed. No man can become a monk, till he is turned of 30; nor any female a nun, till ſhe is 50 years of age; and not even then, but with the expreſs per⯑miſſion of their ſuperiors.

The head of their church was a patriarch, whoſe au⯑thority and juriſdiction, the Ruſſians relate, were derived from the patriarch of the Greek church, who for⯑merly reſided at Conſtantinople, and afterwards at the iſle of Scio; to whom they had long paid their ſpi⯑ritual ſubjection, as the Roman Catholics to the Pope, and uſed to ſend preſents annually; and who being, at length, preſſed and driven from thence by the Turks, Hieronymo, the then Great Patriarch, being invited and encouraged by the Czar, did, in 1558, come to Moſ⯑cow, and there reſign his patriarchal ſee to the metro⯑politan of Moſcow, as ſupreme biſhop, and paſtor, of the Greek church. This Patriarch of Moſcow, was afterwards in very high eſteem with the people; and bore, with the Czar, a kind of ſovereignty in the em⯑pire: for he was not only ſupreme judge, in eccleſiaſtical matters, but had a power to reform, by his own au⯑thority, whatever he thought prejudicial to good mo⯑rals; and could paſs ſentence of death, without ac⯑quainting the court with it; former Czars having or⯑dered [213] ſuch ſentences to be put into execution, without the leaſt demur, or heſitation.

But on the death of the eleventh Patriarch, in 1699, who was a very old man, and who happened to die ſoon after Peter I. returned from his travels, he refuſed to have any other Patriarch elected, and took upon him⯑ſelf to be the ſole head and governor of his church, giving only to the Metropolitan of Razan, the admi⯑niſtration of eccleſiaſtical affairs; who was, in matters of moment, to apply to the Czar for directions. This tranſaction chagrined the clergy; and, it coming to Peter's ears, that a biſhop had talked a little too freely againſt this new authority of his, his majeſty ordered him to be formally degraded; but the other biſhops remonſtrating againſt this order, and ſaying, among other things, that they, being all biſhops and but of equal rank, could not do it, unleſs a new Patriarch, or ſupreme, was firſt elected; the Czar created a new bi⯑ſhop on purpoſe, and ordered him to do it; and, ac⯑cordingly, the mitre was taken from the head of this contumacious biſhop, by the one new created.

The miniſters of their churches, whom they call Popes, and Proto popes (or prieſts, and arch-prieſts), never preach to the people, ſays Perry, who wrote the beginning of this century; ſome few only excepted, who preach before the Czar, in the cathedral church, on great holidays. The height of the learning which the [214] common clergy can be ſaid to be maſters of, or, in⯑deed, that is required of them as a qualification for holy orders, is, that they can chant, or read over diſ⯑tinctly, the ſervice of the church, have a good, clear voice, a fair character, and can repeat Hoſpidi Pomilio, that is, "Lord, have mercy upon us," 12 or 15 times in a breath. Nor did they much regard from whence they took their prieſts; but, ſince the eſtabliſhment of their univerſities, there is a reform in this, as in other things.

Of all their ſaints, the Ruſſians hold St. Nicholas moſt in eſteem; and often ſpeak of him as a god. If you aſk them, on croſſing a lake, how far it is to ſuch a place, they will tell you, that if it pleaſes St. Nicholas to ſend them a fair wind, they ſhall get there by ſuch a time.

There is no great difference between the Ruſs reli⯑gion, and that of the Papiſts, with reſpect, as I have obſerved, to their holding ſaints in adoration, and keep⯑ing of holidays; in their belief, that it is in the power of the prieſt to forgive ſins; and in the point of damn⯑ing, or inveighing againſt all people, of any other re⯑ligion than their own. They oblige the clergy to marry one wife, agreeable to St. Paul's direction, but no more; and if ſhe dies, he can officiate no longer than one year afterwards, but uſually retires to a monaſtery for bread. On this account it is, that prieſts in Ruſſia uſe [215] their wives better than any men in the country. They adminiſter the ſacrament, in both kinds, to the laity, as well as the clergy; and though they pray for the dead, they believe, if a man receives the prieſt's bleſ⯑ſing before he dies, and has a certificate for St. Ni⯑cholas, that he departed in the true chriſtian faith (which certificate is put between his fingers, when laid in his grave), that he ſhall be admitted into heaven. They differ alſo from the Papiſts, and the reformed churches, concerning the Holy Trinity: they ſay, the Holy Ghoſt proceeds from the Father only, not from Father and Son; and ſo much reverence his deſcent in the form of a dove, that very few of them will eat a pigeon. One of the ſtrongeſt and hotteſt diſputes they have among them, about any difference in point of re⯑ligion, is the manner of holding their fingers when they croſs themſelves; one of their Patriarchs having enjoined, that laymen ſhould only croſs themſelves with two fingers; whereas, there is an obſtinate ſect among them, that will do it with three.

From a general opinion, that no man can be ſaved, but thoſe who profeſs the Greek religion, it is reckoned a great merit, in men of opulence and rank, to bring over proſelytes to the Ruſſian faith; nor is a man ac⯑counted a chriſtian, till he has been re-baptized. In this ceremony, he is to ſpit three times over his left ſhoulder, ſays Perry, and repeat theſe words, after the prieſt: ‘Curſed are my parents, that brought me up [216] in the religion that I have been taught; I ſpit upon them, and upon their religion.’ Thus do they diſ⯑pute for trifles, whilſt they neglect the ſolid things of chriſtianity.

Like the Roman Catholics, they have alſo their mi⯑racles, and thoſe equally as ridiculous. For the amuſe⯑ment of my readers, I will relate one or two of them. There are 72 monaſteries, belonging to the diſtrict of the city of Novogorod; the chief of which is dedicated to the famous St. Anthony, of whom the Ruſſians relate this ſtory.—That he (being guided by the viſion of an angel), came, about 700 years ago, from the mouth of the river Tyber, on the coaſt of Italy, round through the Great Ocean up the Baltick, and by way of the Lodoga ſea, and river Volcoff, to the city of Novo⯑gorod, in four days, upon a mill-ſtone; and, by this miracle, occaſioned the thorough converſion of the country to the chriſtian faith.—In the month of June, they have a proceſſion about the city, in commemo⯑ration of the day of St. Anthony's arrival; a monaſtery is built on the ſpot where he landed, and the mill-ſtone on which he floated, is ſtill to be ſeen, placed upon one edge, in the church belonging to this monaſtery, near which the body of St. Anthony is buried, in a ſtone-coffin: and the Ruſſians affirm, as an undeniable teſti⯑mony of the truth of this miracle, that God has pre⯑ſerved his body from corruption; and they generally expoſe it to the view of ſuch perſons as humbly come to pay their devotions at his tomb.

[217]In the diſtrict of Novogorod alſo, by the river Tiffin, which falls into the Lodoga ſea, there is a monaſtery, dedicated to the Bleſſed Virgin; of which they relate the following miracle: viz. That the church, which is now ſtanding within the walls of the monaſtery, was originally built on the oppoſite ſide of the river; and that the place where it now ſtands, which is a hard, gravelly bank, for ſeveral miles above and below it, was then a mere bog; but that the Mother of God came through the air, in 24 hours, from Conſtanti⯑nople, and, in the night, removed the ſaid church, over the river, into the ſaid bog, which immediately became hard ground; and that ſhe did this, in order to be worſhipped by the people on that ſide of the river to which ſhe removed the church.

Carved images are forbidden in their churches, agreeable to the law of Moſes, which forbids the wor⯑ſhip of any graven image; but pictures of their ſaints, they ſay, are no images, and are approved by God; and tell the following ſtory, as a confirmation.—That a painter, trying to paint a likeneſs of our Saviour, and finding, that what he painted at one time, did not agree with the likeneſs he had given at another, was exceed⯑ingly uneaſy; that our Saviour, accordingly, took com⯑paſſion on him, appeared, and called the painter to him, aſked him for his pocket-handkerchief, laid it on his face, and returned it to the painter, ſaying, he would, when ſpread, find his picture upon it.—That, [218] from this original, the Ruſs painters copy the like⯑neſs of our Saviour, with great exactneſs; and, of courſe, it benefits the limner's trade, in this country.

One more, and I have done.—They repreſent the Virgin Mary with three hands, and on the following account. In the kingdom of Caſan, a painter had been drawing the Virgin, with our Saviour in her arms, and had ſo diſpoſed the picture, as to ſhew both her hands; but having left it, and returning to finiſh it, inſtead of two hands, he found three. Conceiving it to be a trick, he rubbed out the additional one, and having finiſhed it, locked it up, and put the key in his pocket; but returning, the ſecond morning, he found a third hand painted again, as before; on which he croſſed himſelf, and was greatly ſurpriſed: but, after a little reflection, ſtill looked on it as a trick put upon him, rubbed it out a ſecond time, and ſecured the room tho⯑roughly. Coming again the third morning, he found the third hand painted again; and going to efface it, the Virgin herſelf appeared, bade him forbear, and told him, it was her will to be drawn with three hands; which the Ruſſians, to this day follow, and call her the Cazanſky Boagaroditza, or Cazanſky mother of God.

The churches I have already ſpoken of, except that they have no ſeats, the Greek ceremonial requiring all perſons to ſtand. But I muſt not forget their bells, which form no inconſiderable part of their divine wor⯑ſhip; [219] as the length, or ſhortneſs of their peals, aſcer⯑tains the greater or leſſer ſanctity of the day. They are hung in belfries, detached from the church; do not ſwing, like our bells, but are fixed immoveably to the beams, and are rung by a rope tied to the clapper, and pulled ſideways. Some of theſe bells are of ſtupendous ſize. One, in the tower of St. Ivan's church, at Moſ⯑cow, weighs 3,551 Ruſſian puds, or 127,836 Engliſh pounds. It has always been eſteemed a meritorious act of religion, to preſent a church with bells; and the piety of the donor has been meaſured, by their mag⯑nitude. According to this mode of eſtimation, Boris Gudonof, who gave a bell to the cathedral of Moſcow, that weighed 288,000lb. was the moſt pious ſovereign of Ruſſia, till he was ſurpaſſed by the Empreſs Anne, at whoſe expence a bell was caſt, that weighs 443,772lb. and which exceeds, in ſize, every bell in the known world. Its value, at 3s. a lb. is 65,681£. a vaſt ſum— but every one, ambitious to contribute towards it, threw ſome gold or ſilver into the furnaces, which were four in number; and theſe furnaces having cocks, let off the metal into the mould. Its height is 19 feet, its circumference at the bottom 21 yards 11 inches, its greateſt thickneſs 23 inches. This bell was hung to a beam in a pit; but the beam having been burnt in a great fire which happened at Moſcow, gave way, and the bell fell, and a piece broke out of it, large enough to admit two perſons a-breaſt, without ſtooping. Its diameter, at bottom, is 22 feet, 4¾ inches; at top, 7 feet, 4¾ inches.

[220]To give my readers ſome idea of the ceremonial of the Greek church, I will lay before them a deſcription, from Coxe, who was preſent, at Moſcow, when the Archbiſhop performed the ſervice, one Sunday morn⯑ing. On his entrance, the choriſters ſung a hymn, taken from Pſalm cxiii. verſe 3, which they finiſhed as he approached the ſhrine, or ſanctuary. Having then ſaid a ſhort prayer, he placed himſelf on a raiſed ſeat in the middle of the church ^*, and taking off his man⯑dyas, or common garment, the attendant prieſts kiſſed his hand, whilſt they delivered to him the different parts of his coſtly, pontifical veſtments, which, in receiving, he raiſed to his lips, to kiſs the croſs embroidered on them, before he put them on. He alſo placed, on his head, a crown, richly ornamented with pearls and pre⯑cious ſtones. His dreſs was ſimilar to the Imperial robe, formerly worn by the Greek emperors of Con⯑ſtantinople, and which they permitted the ſupreme dig⯑natories of the church to wear, during divine ſervice; and the ſame attire ſtill continues, to diſtinguiſh the hierarchy of the Greek church eſtabliſhed in Ruſſia, from the lower orders. The archbiſhop being robed, repaired to the ſanctuary, and ſoon after began the ſer⯑vice, part of which was performed in the Sclavonian tongue, by the different prieſts, and part by the arch⯑biſhop [221] in the Greek language, which he pronounced according to the accent of the modern Greeks. In conformity to the rules of the church, no organ, or other muſical inſtrument, was introduced; but the vocal harmony, which conſiſted in hymns, was exceed⯑ingly pleaſing. Lighted tapers, and incenſe, ſeemed no leſs eſſential parts of their worſhip, than among the Roman Catholics. Towards the concluſion of the pray⯑ers, the archbiſhop, and clergy, retired within the ſanctuary, to receive the communion; the folding-doors that encloſe that place, were immediately ſhut, and none of the laity, at that time, partook of this rite; but a ſtranger is permitted to view the whole, through a ſide-door. The communicants ſtood through the ce⯑remony, and the wine was, according to uſual cuſtom, mixed with warm water; the bread, cut into ſmall pieces, was put into the wine; and the elements, of both kinds, were given, at the ſame time, in a ſpoon.

The whole ſervice laſted about an hour; and the archbiſhop, having pronounced the final benediction, again ſeated himſelf in the middle of the church, and unrobed.

On the 6th of January, old ſtile, they have an an⯑nual ceremony, of a religious nature, that of bleſſing the waters. This uſed to be held upon the Neva; on which occaſion, the ſovereign attended in perſon upon [222] the ice, and all the regiments of guards were drawn out, in great ſolemnity. Its pomp, though ſtill ſplen⯑did, is now much diminiſhed.—The principal circum⯑ſtances are as follow:

On the frozen ſurface of a ſmall canal, between the Admiralty and the Palace, is erected an octagon pavi⯑lion of wood, painted green, and ornamented with boughs of fir, open at the ſide, and crowned by a dome, ſupported by eight pillars. On the top is the figure of St. John, with the croſs; and four paintings, repre⯑ſenting ſome of our Saviour's miracles: on the outſide, a carved image of the Holy-Spirit, under the emblem of a dove, was ſuſpended, as is uſual in the ſanctuaries of the Greek churches. The floor of this edifice is carpeted, excepting a ſquare vacancy in the middle, in which an opening in the ice is cut, and a ladder let down into the water. The pavilion is encloſed by pal⯑liſades, adorned with fir-twigs; and the intermediate ſpace alſo carpeted. From one of the windows of the Palace, a ſcaffold is erected, to the extremity of the canal, and lined with red cloth. At a time appointed, ſays Mr. Coxe, who was preſent on one of theſe occaſions, the Empreſs appeared at this window, and the arch⯑biſhop, who was to perform the benediction, paſſed, at the head of a numerous proceſſion, along the ſcaffold⯑ing, into the octagon, round which were drawn up a few ſoldiers of each regiment quartered at Peterſburg: after having pronounced a few prayers, he deſcended [223] the ladder, plunged a croſs into the water, and then ſprinkled the colours of each regiment. At the con⯑cluſion of this ceremony, the archbiſhop retired, and the people ruſhed, in crowds, into the octagon, drank the water with eagerneſs, ſprinkled it upon their clothes, and carried home ſome of it, to purify their houſes.

CHAP. VII. Of their Conſtitution, Government, Laws, Revenue, &c.

THE government of Ruſſia is the moſt abſolute in Europe: there is not even the appearance of the leaſt barrier between the people, and the will of the ſovereign. All ranks are equally ſlaves to the Crown, not ſubjects; and their puniſhments ſhew the ſpirit of the legiſlature. The greateſt nobility are liable to be ſeized for the moſt trifling offence, and baniſhed to Siberia, their eſtates confiſcated, and their families ru⯑ined; or they are liable to ſuffer the knout, that is, to be whipped to death; or undergo other violent puniſh⯑ments, ſuch as having their tongues cut out, to be hung up by the ribs, and many other inflictions of bar⯑barity, which ſhew the cruelty of deſpotiſm, without having its good effect. The ſecret court of chancery, which is a tribunal compoſed of a few miniſters choſen by the ſovereign, leaves the lives and fortunes of all fa⯑milies [224] at his mercy; and the nobles of Ruſſia, thus brought under the yoke of the moſt dreadful ſlavery, do not fail to retaliate on the people, who are ſlaves to the nobles, as well as to the ſovereign.

The inhabitants, in general, may be divided into four orders.—1. That of the nobles, and gentry; 2. That of the clergy; 3. That of the merchants, and tradeſmen; and, 4. That of the peaſants.—The firſt three, include almoſt all the free ſubjects of the em⯑pire; the latter, all the vaſſals, or ſlaves.

The nobles, and gentry, are the ſole perſons who, in the ſpirit of feudal deſpotiſm, have a right to poſſeſs land; but, inſtead of appearing themſelves, according to the tenure of that ſyſtem, at the head of their retainers, are now only expected to ſerve in the army, and are obliged to furniſh recruits, in proportion to their eſtates.

In Ruſſia, as in oriental governments, there is little diſtinction of rank among the nobility, excepting what is derived from the ſervice of the ſovereign. No family of rank derives any ſolid benefit from hereditary deſcent. The importance of a noble houſe, of immenſe property and official honours, is almoſt annihilated, on the death of the chief; becauſe, the property he leaves behind him, is equally divided among his ſons; and becauſe, titles, though hereditary, do not, independent of the [225] favour of the Crown, add any weight to the wearer: thoſe of prince, count, or baron, conveying, in them⯑ſelves, little diſtinction, unleſs accompanied with ſome high, civil, or military employ. According to the ſyſtem introduced by Peter I. but which has been abuſed ſince his time, every perſon takes precedence from his military ſtation; and he muſt riſe, in re⯑gular gradation, from a corporal to a field-officer: yet this is rather eluded, gentlemens' ſons being made cor⯑porals in their infancy. And although the law of Peter I. which compelled every gentleman to ſerve in the army, on pain of degradation, is now overlooked, yet no one, under the rank of a major, let his fortune be ever ſo large, is permitted to drive more than two horſes; under that of brigadier, more than four. A nobleman of the higheſt fortune and diſtinction, who has never been in the army, is not allowed, but by eſ⯑pecial favour of the Crown, to uſe a carriage in the capital, drawn by more than one horſe; though a mer⯑chant may have two. There are various methods, how⯑ever, of conferring military rank, and the privileges attendant on it. The high-chamberlain, ranks as major-general; ſecretaries of ſtate, as officers; and, contributors to the foundling-hoſpital at Moſcow, as lieutenants.

Theſe regulations, and the eaſy acquiſition of mili⯑tary rank, has induced Mr. Schloetzer, a German ſettled in Ruſſia, to expreſs himſelf, with ſome humour, in [226] the following manner:—‘A nobleman is here no⯑thing; his ſituation in the army, alone, marks the value of his exiſtence. A phyſician has the rank of major, and dares, as a ſtaff-officer, put four horſes to his carriage, whilſt others can only drive two. An apothecary, in the Imperial ſervice, has the rank of a captain; his apprentices, that of enſigns; and the two ſurgeons of the diſtrict, have the rank of lieute⯑nants.’—But, however ridiculous theſe promotions may appear, they are founded on principles of the ſound⯑eſt policy; for, as by a decree of Peter the Great, every officer is noble during life, and the children of a ſtaff-officer, are claſſed among the nobility; any inſtitution tending to increaſe the number of this order of men, who alone are entitled to poſſeſs land, muſt be beneficial to ſociety. On their own eſtates, the nobles, and gen⯑try are almoſt uncontroled.

2. Of the church, the ſovereign is the head; the eccleſiaſtic authority being conſigned to a tribunal, called, the Sacred Synod; which is compoſed of the ſovereign as preſident, the metropolitan archbiſhop, the vice-preſident, and a number of counſellors and aſſeſſors.

The clergy are divided into regular and ſecular; the firſt are monks, the ſecond, pariſh-prieſts. The prin⯑cipal wealth of the church, was centered in the mo⯑naſteries, which had eſtates to the amount of 400,000£. [227] a-year; and, like all other landholders, enjoyed un⯑controuled authority over their peaſants, who held un⯑der them. But the preſent Empreſs has annexed theſe church-lands to the Crown, and given annual penſions to the hierarchy, the dignified clergy, and the monks. The archbiſhops, and biſhops, receive about 1000£. a year; and the ſubordinate eecleſiaſtics, in pro⯑portion.

All the dignitaries of the church are choſen from the order of monks. Theſe are archbiſhops and biſhops, archi-mandrites, or abbots, and igoomens, or priors. There are 33 archbiſhops and biſhops; and, through⯑out Ruſſia, 159 monaſteries, governed by 58 archi⯑mandrites; and 99 ignoomens, and 67 nunneries. There are 2,677 monks, and 1,299 nuns. Other prieſts, and eccleſiaſtics, belonging to the nunneries and cathedrals, are, in number, 1,537.

The papas, popes, or pariſh-prieſts, in Ruſſia, are generally the very refuſe of the people; many of them cannot even read. Theſe deliver the ſervice from me⯑mory; a chapter of the New Teſtament, or part of a homily, which they repeat every Friday and Sunday. Beſides the ſurplice-fees, which, in the pooreſt be⯑nefice, amounts to 4£. a-year; and, in the moſt pro⯑fitable, to but 24£. They have only a wooden houſe, ſcarcely ſuperior to that of the meaneſt of their pariſh⯑ioners; and a ſmall portion of lands, which they cul⯑tivate [228] uſually with their own hands; whilſt the higheſt dignity to which they can ever attain, while they con⯑tinue married, is that of proto-pope of a cathedral, whoſe income ſcarcely exceeds 20£. a-year.—No wonder, then, they are ſo illiterate, when they have ſo little encou⯑ragement to be otherwiſe! The Empreſs has, to make amends for this, had a number of ſermons, inculcating the moral duties, printed in the Ruſſian language; and theſe are diſtributed among the parochial cler⯑gy, and occaſionally read by them, in time of divine ſervice. The children of the ſecular clergy are all free, and are uſually brought up for orders, or employed in the ſervice of the church.

All the clergy wear long beards, and are diſtinguiſhed from the laity, by ſuffering their hair to ſtream, for a conſiderable length, over their ſhoulders, without being tied, or curled. Their dreſs is a ſquare bonnet, and a long robe, of a black, or dark colour, reaching to their ancles. The clergy do not mix with the polite world, being men of low breeding, and extremely ignorant; and, the dignitaries of the church, ſeclude themſelves, from choice.

3. The third claſs, are thoſe between the nobles and the peaſants, the mercantile part of the people. Theſe are exempted from the poll-tax, and from being draughted for either army or navy (on condition of their paying one per cent. of their capital employed in trade, to the [229] Crown), two ſituations conſidered, in this country, as indubitable marks of ſervitude.

It is a circumſtance worthy of remark, that the Ruſſian merchants, and tradeſmen, ſeldom keep any book of account, as few of them can either read or write, and are unacquainted with the knowledge of figures. Their manner of reckoning, is by a kind of machine, with ſeveral rows of wires, on which beads are ſtrung. The beads on the firſt row, ſtand for units; thoſe on the ſecond, for tens; and ſo on: and, by this machine, they can add, ſubtract, multiply, and divide, with facility and exactneſs.

4. The fourth order of ſubjects, are the peaſants; which, except thoſe of Finland and Carelia, the Uk⯑raine, and a few others, are all vaſſals, or ſlaves. Theſe may be divided into peaſants of the Crown, and pea⯑ſants of individuals.

Thoſe of the Crown inhabit the Imperial demeſnes, and are about a ſixth part of the whole. They are un⯑der the juriſdiction of the Imperial bailiffs; and, though liable to great exactions from theſe petty tyrants, yet, being under the protection of the Crown, are much more ſecure of their property, than the peaſants of in⯑dividuals. Many of theſe have been made free, and have enrolled themſelves among the merchants and traders. But,

[230]The peaſants belonging to individuals, are, the pri⯑vate property of the land-holders, as much as are their implements of huſbandry, or herds of cattle; and the value of an eſtate is eſtimated, as in Poland, by its number of boors, and not by its number of acres. With reſpect to the lord's own demands upon his peaſants, he is reſtrained by no law, either in the exaction of any ſum, or in the mode of employing them. He is abſo⯑lute maſter of their time and labour: ſome he employs in agriculture; a few he makes his menial ſervants, and perhaps without wages; and, from others, he exacts an annual payment. Each vaſſal is rated according to the arbitrary will of his maſter. Some pay four or five ſhillings a-year; others, engaged in trade, contribute in proportion to their profits. A maſon ſhall pay 6£. a-year; a ſmith, 12£.; and ſome, as high as 20£. The capital they may acquire by trade, is liable to be ſeized, and there can be no redreſs; for, according to an old, feudal law, a ſlave cannot inſtitute a proceſs againſt his maſter. Some of the Ruſſian nobility will ſend their vaſſals to Moſcow, or Peterſburgh, to learn trades, and then employ them, on return, on their own eſtates, let them out for hire, ſell them at an advanced price, or receive from them an annual compenſation, for a permiſſion to carry on their trades for their own advantage.

They formerly could puniſh their ſlaves as they pleaſed, and with any degree of cruelty, ſo that it ex⯑tended [231] not to death; but, by the new code of laws now enacted, this enormous power of the lords is re⯑ſtrained. A peaſant may, however, obtain his liberty three ways. 1. By manumiſſion; which, on the death of his maſter, is frequently granted to his domeſtics; 2, by purchaſe; and, 3, by ſerving in the army, or navy: a peaſant being free, from the moment of his en⯑rollment, and continuing ſo when diſcharged. A law is now paſt, to oblige every nobleman, whoſe eſtate con⯑ſiſts of a certain number of families, to enfranchiſe one of the moſt induſtrious families yearly; when ſo ſet free, he has a farm aſſigned him, and the Empreſs makes him a preſent of ſome implements; and, after three years, he is obliged to pay his old maſter a good rent for that farm. This is done to induce the land-holders to take rent for their land, inſtead of ſervices.

The vaſt empire of Ruſſia was diſtributed into nine extenſive governments. Each government was ſub⯑divided into provinces; and each province, into diſtricts, or circles. Over each government, was appointed a governor; over the provinces, a waywode, and his officers, who formed a chancery; and over the diſtricts, an inferior waywode, or a kind of juſtice of peace. This mode of governing was found defective, and the Empreſs has eſtabliſhed a new one; the heads of which are as follow:

[232]The nine extenſive governments, are diſtributed into a larger number, each containing from 3 to 400,000 people. One, or more, of theſ [...] governments, is ſuper⯑intended by a nameſtnick, [...] lord-lieutenant; and, each of them, has a vice-governo [...] a council, civil and criminal courts of judicature, ſome of whoſe members are appointed by the Crown, the others choſen by the nobles; and, in each government, there are alſo ſupe⯑rior tribunals to appeal to, without coming to Moſcow, or Peterſburgh.

In ſhort, Ruſſia, with reſpect to the vaſt maſs of its people, is now nearly in the ſame ſtate in which the greateſt part of Europe was plunged in the 11th and 12th centuries; when the feudal ſyſtem was gradually de⯑clining; when the unbounded authority of the land⯑holders over their ſlaves, was beginning to be counter-balanced by the introduction of an intermediate order of merchants; when new towns were continually erect⯑ing, and endowed with increaſing immunities; and when the Crown began to give freedom to many of its vaſ⯑fals. The completion of theſe plans have, in a few centuries, brought Europe to its preſent ſtate; and, as the legiſlature of Ruſſia, has now the hiſtory of other nations to refer to, it is not to be doubted, but this country, under a wiſe inſtitution, will reach the per⯑fection of European ſtates, in a much ſhorter period.

[233]The revenues of Ruſſia, beſides the impoſts paid by the Ukraine, and the provinces conquered from Swe⯑den, chiefly ariſe from the poll-tax, the duties of im⯑port and export, an exciſe upon ſalt, the crown and church-lands, the mint, the ſale of ſpirituous liquors, &c. which, in the whole, amount to about 6,144,968£. ſter⯑ling, which, at the acceſſion of Peter the Great, did not exceed one million. Much of the revenue ariſes from monopolies; the whole trade to China, belongs to the Crown; ſo does that of rhubarb, pot-aſhes, and ſpices, hemp, iron, beer, and brandy. Of this revenue, the expences of army and navy amount to about 3,072,485£. thoſe of the civil eſtabliſhment, to 2,272,483£. and the remainder, or 800,000£. is appropriated to the privy-purſe of the Empreſs. But though this 800,000£. is equal to 2,400,000£. Engliſh, it is difficult to conceive, how ſhe is able to maintain the magnificence of her court, the number of public inſtitutions, the numerous buildings (which, in time of peace, riſe to 200,000£. yearly), which are raiſed at her expence, the liberality with which ſhe encourages the arts and ſciences, the many purchaſes ſhe is continually making, all over Europe, and the immenſe diſtinctions which ſhe confers on the moſt favoured of her ſubjects;—and yet the ſtate is free from debt.

The ſtanding army of Ruſſia, is computed at near 250,000 regular men; beſides which, the Empreſs can always aſſemble a body of 40 or 50,000 Kalmucks, [234] Coſſacks, and other irregular troops; and as excellent a train of artlllery as any in the world. The regulars conſiſt chiefly of infantry, except about 60,000 horſe; and include all thoſe who wear uniforms, and are train⯑ed to European diſcipline. When properly diſciplined, they are very excellent ſoldiers; being brave, ſteady, obedient, patient of fatigue and hardſhip, and ſcarcely ever guilty of deſertion.

They are ſo naturally fearleſs, ſays Captain Perry, as not to be diſcouraged at death. I have ſeen, ſays he, ſeveral of them walk to execution, with chains on their legs, and wax tapers burning in their hands, and as they paſſed the crowds, bow to them, and ſay, Proſtee Brats, that is, "Adieu, brothers!" and the people make the like reply to them, bidding them adieu! and have laid down their heads on the blocks, and reſigned their lives with a ſteady countenance. This natural fearleſsneſs, their being conſtantly expoſed to the ex⯑tremes of heat and cold, and their cuſtom of bathing once or twice a-week, through their lives, as I have deſcribed, makes them fit to encounter any thing; ſo that it is ſaid, let the Ruſſians have but good officers, and they will not fail to make good ſoldiers. The uni⯑form is green, turned up with red, white waiſtcoats and breeches. The troops, in general, are raiſed at little or no expence; and, whilſt in their own country, ſub⯑ſiſt▪ chiefly on proviſions furniſhed them by the country-people, according to their internal valuation.

[235]If we judge from the preſent ſtate of the Ruſſian army, we may look for great ſucceſs in any war. The men may be all called veterans. It has not any neigh⯑bours, to whom it is not much ſuperior in force. Poland is at its mercy. Pruſſia is not equal to her, and will never be able to make another ſtand againſt her; the Ruſſian army being now more powerful, more numerous, and with an artillery inferior to none—an advantage ſhe never had before. Poland behind her, three-fourths of it abſolutely in her power to winter in, in a Turkiſh war, inſtead of falling back to Ruſſia.

The preſent ſtate of the Ruſſian navy, promiſes alſo well to the empire: full of hands, and full of ſhips, new ones every day launching at Peterſburgh, and all the old ones repairing. She has many ſhip-carpenters at Tanais, on the Black Sea, and will be there extremely formidable. Ruſſia produces every article neceſſary for the conſtruction and equipment of ſhips, which are chiefly built at Cronſtadt, Peterſburgh, and Archangel. Manufactures of cordage, and ſail-cloth, are eſtabliſhed in different parts of the empire; and the magazines of Peterſburgh and Archangel, are always plentifully ſtored with large quantities of both theſe articles. In 1778, the navy of this country conſiſted of 38 ſhips of the line, 15 frigates, 4 prames, and 109 gallies. At Cron⯑ſtadt, there is an Imperial hoſpital for ſailors, and an academy for marines, and officers of the navy. This, in 1778, contained 370 cadets, who are cloathed, main⯑tained, [236] and taught at the expence of the Crown. They are admitted at the age of five, and are ſuffered to re⯑main there till 17. They learn accounts, mathematics, drawing, fortification, and navigation; and have maſ⯑ters in the French, German, Engliſh, and Swediſh languages. They are trained to naval affairs, and make an annual cruiſe on the Baltic, as far as Revel.

Indeed, what gives great weight to the naval ſtrength of Ruſſia, is the number of her gallies, which carry from 100 to 300 men, ſix or eight only of which are ſailors. Rowing is, to the Ruſſian ſoldiers, what ſwim⯑ming was to the Romans. Every foot-ſoldier learns to handle the oar, at the ſame time as the muſquet; by which means, without maritime commerce, and with⯑out embargoes, the Ruſſians have always crews ready for their gallies. Theſe, ſays Count Alzarotti, are here the proper things. Be there never ſo little water, there is always enough for them; they glide between the little iſlands and the rocks, and can land any where. They are all armed with two pieces of cannon on the prow, and furniſhed with chace and ſwivel-guns on the ſides. An army of 30,000 men is tranſported in them with eaſe. They caſt anchor every night, and land where it is leaſt expected. When diſembarked, they draw them up on land, range them in a circle, with their prows and artillery pointed outwards, and thus they have a fortified camp preſently. They leave five or [237] ſix battalions to guard it; and, with the reſt of their troops, over-run the country, and lay it under contri⯑bution. The expedition ended, they re-embark, and begin again, in other quarters; and ſometimes they tranſport theſe veſſels from one water to another, over a ſteep of land, as was practiſed by the ancients. Theſe gallies are built at Peterſburgh, of a ſpecies of oak, which is at leaſt two ſummers on the road before it ar⯑rives. It comes ready cut by the carpenters in the province of Caſan, brought all the way by water.

Could Ruſſia obtain a free paſſage from the Black Sea, through the Dardanelles, into the Mediterraneax, which ſhe aims at, with Azoph and the Crimea in her hands, as it is, ſhe would then have a free navigation from all parts of the empire, by means of the rivers Tanais and Donetz, down to Azoph; that port would then be the grand magazine of all the commodities of the empire, where her ſhips would load for diſtributing them through all the fouthern countries of Europe, and on the coaſt of Africa; at the ſame time that Peterſ⯑burgh ſent them to all the northern ones. This trade would give them a new export, perhaps of more con⯑ſequence than all the others put together, that of corn. The fineſt territories of Europe for huſbandry, are ſaid to be the tracts on the north of the Black Sea, includ⯑ing the province of the Ukraine. At preſent, theſe countries have no vent for ſuch a product, and, there⯑fore, raiſe no more than for their own conſumption; but [238] open the Dardanelles to them, and this territory would be much better for ſupplying the beſt corn-markets in Europe, than thoſe which at preſent ſupply them, and would gain the excluſive trade likewiſe of ſerving them with naval ſtores.

The Turks will never ſubmit to a Ruſſian navi⯑gation, through the heart of Conſtantinople (which would be an overthrow of their empire); unleſs they were firſt reduced to the laſt extremity. This will de⯑pend on the naval force of the two empires in the Black Sea.

Though capital puniſhments, except in caſes of high treaſon, in this country, are apparently ſuppreſſed, they are not ſo, in fact; for, though the criminal laws do not, literally, ſentence malefactors to death, they ſtill conſign many to that doom, through the medium of puniſhments; in ſome circumſtances, almoſt aſſuredly, if not profeſſedly, fatal; which mock with the hopes of life, but, in reality, protract the horrors of death, and embitter, with delay, an even which reaſon wiſhes to be inſtantaneous: for, when we conſider, that many felons expire under the infliction of the knout; that ſe⯑veral are exhauſted, by the fatigue of a long journey, to the remoteſt regions of Siberia, a diſtance of 4,776 miles; and that the forlorn remnant periſh, in general, prematurely, from the unwholſomeneſs of the mines; it will be difficult to view the doom of theſe unhappy [239] outcaſts, in any other light, than that of a lingering execution.

According to the preſent penal laws, offenders are puniſhed in the following manner. Perſons convicted of high-treaſon, are either beheaded, or impriſoned for life. Felons, after receiving the knout, having their noſtrils torn, and their faces marked, are condemned, for life, to work in the mines of Nerſhink: petty of⯑fenders are either whipped with a kind of cat-o-nine tails, tranſported into Siberia as coloniſts, or ſentenced to hard labour for a ſtated period. Among the co⯑loniſts, are included peaſants, arbitrarily conſigned to baniſhment by their maſters, who are empowered to inflict this puniſhment, aſſigning only the cauſe of the offence.

All theſe perſons, felons and others, are tranſported, in ſpring and autumn, from different parts of the Ruſ⯑ſian dominions. They travel part of the way by water, and part by land; are chained in pairs, and faſtened to a long rope: at night they are carried to different cot⯑tages, and guarded by the ſoldiers who conduct them. When the whole troop arrive at Tobolſkoi, the go⯑vernor aſſigns the coloniſts who have been bred to han⯑dicraft trades, to different maſters in the town; others, he diſpoſes of as vaſſals, in the neighbouring country: the remainder of the coloniſts go on to Irkutſkaja, where they are diſpoſed of by the governor, in the ſame [240] manner. The felons then proceed, alone, to the diſ⯑trict of Nerſhinkaja, where they are condemned to work in the ſilver mines, or at the different forges.

The knout, or knoot, is a thong about the thick⯑neſs of a crown-piece, and about three-quarters of an inch broad, and rendered extremely hard, by a pecu⯑liar kind of preparation; it is tied to a thick, plaited whip, which is faſtened, by an iron ring, like a flail, to a ſhort, wooden handle. The executioner, before every ſtroke, recedes a few paces, drawing back his hand which holds the knoot, then bounding forwards, applies the fiat end of the thong, with conſiderable force, to the naked back of the criminal, in a perpen⯑dicular line, reaching ſix or ſeven inches from the col⯑lar to the waiſt. He begins by hitting the right ſhoul⯑der, and continues his ſtrokes, parallel to each other, quite to the left ſhoulder; nor does he ceaſe, till he has given the number of laſhes, agreeable to the ſen⯑tence, from one to three hundred, or more. The reader may judge of the great force which a ſkilful ex⯑ecutioner can give to this inſtrument, when he is told, that if he receives a private order, he can diſpatch the criminal, by ſtriking him two or three blows upon the ribs. There are other ingenious contrivances to puniſh criminals, far worſe than death; but as I truſt the feeling of an Engliſh reader, will rather be excuſed the relation of them.

[241]I will cloſe this ſubject, with ſome account of the pirates that infeſt the larger rivers, which is attributed to the ſeverities of the maſters of fiſheries to their vaſ⯑ſals, near the mouths of the Jaik and the Wolga. When⯑ever they are warmly purſued, and diſtreſted for ſup⯑port, they run their veſſels aſhore, turn Mahomedans, and put themſelves under the protection of the Per⯑ſians. Theſe robbers often go in gangs of 30, 40, and ſometimes 80 perſons, in row-boats, which carry from 20 to 30 hands; they equip themſelves with fire-arms, and their general practice is, to board immediately; for where a fierce reſiſtance is apprehended, they ſeldom attack. Few of the Ruſſian merchants tranſport any cargoes of value down the Wolga, without a convoy. The ſoldiers who are ſent after them, are ordered to take them alive, from an apprehenſion, that a latitude to kill, might, through the ſtrong temptation to plunder, in a ſoldier's breaſt, ſubject the innocent to ſuffer for the guilty.

The Armenians are generally intrepid, and fight bravely in defence of their property; but the Bour⯑lacks, who navigate the Wolga, are ſo extremely inti⯑midated by theſe robbers, that, as ſoon as they appear, they are panic-ſtruck. They ſubmit immediately; and the maſter of the veſſel, or the merchant, being thus at their mercy, is happy to eſcape with life; if he attempts to defend himſelf, and is conquered, he may be ſure of being barbarouſly murdered.

[242]As the cruelties of theſe men are very great, ſo is their puniſhment, when taken. A float is built, in ſize according to the number of delinquents, and a gallows erected on it, to contain a ſufficient number of iron hooks, on which they are hung up alive by the ribs. The float is launched into the ſtream, with labels over their heads, ſignifying their crimes, and orders are given, to all towns and villages, on the borders of the river, on pain of death, not only to afford no relief to any of theſe wretches, but to puſh off the float, ſhould it land near them. Sometimes, their partners in wickedneſs meet them, and, if there are any ſigns of life, take them down, or ſhoot them dead; but, if they are caught in theſe acts of illegal mercy, they are hung up, without the ceremony of a trial.—They tell of one of theſe miſcreants, who had the fortune to diſengage him⯑ſelf from the hook, and though naked, and trembling with pain and loſs of blood, got aſhore. The firſt ob⯑ject he ſaw, who could afford him any relief, was a poor ſhepherd, whoſe brains he beat out with a ſtone, and then took his cloaths.—Theſe malefactors ſometimes hang thus three or four days, and ſometimes five days alive. The pain generally produces a raging fever, or phrenzy, which carries them off, imploring the relief of water, with the moſt horrid imprecations.

CHAP. I. Of the Country, Rivers, Canals, &c.

AS the Chineſe are at ſo great a diſtance from us, and are ſo very unwilling to admit foreigners among them, the beſt accounts of them we can col⯑lect, are from thoſe Jeſuit miſſionaries who dwelt among them, and who traverſed the whole empire, in order to make converts to chriſtianity. And, though the ac⯑counts we have received, from theſe miſſionaries, have [244] been written ſome years, yet, as the Chineſe are ſo bigoted to their ancient cuſtoms, and ſo prejudiced in favour of what their anceſtors did, that the ſame uſages, manners, &c. which were prevalent in China 4000 years ago, have not been changed with time, but have con⯑tinued exactly the ſame for 40 centuries; we may rely on the faith of theſe men, and believe, that no alte⯑ration has taken place, within the laſt 50 or 60 years. As the perſons employed, by the ſeveral India-com⯑panies in Europe, never penetrate further than into the ſuburbs of Canton, we can learn very little from them.

Great Tartary and China are now united, and make but one mighty empire, comprending all the eaſtern ſide of the continent of Aſia. Chineſe Tartary is bound⯑ed on the north by Siberia, a vaſt tract of country be⯑longing to the Ruſſians, as we have ſeen in the ſecond, third, and fourth volumes, of this work; on the eaſt, by the gulph of Kamtſchatka, another country of the Ruſſian empire; and, on the weſt, by the country of the Kalmucks, eſtabliſhed between the Caſghar and the Caſpian ſea. On the ſouth, it is united to China, ſeparated only by the famous wall, and, with this, makes but one empire; China extending to the Chineſe, or Great, South Sea.

This celebrated wall, of which ſo many travellers have ſpoken, divides Chineſe Tartary from China, and [245] was built 220 years before the birth of Chriſt. It was erected to defend China from that part of Tartary which is now become a branch of the empire; of courſe, this aſtoniſhing barrier, is become almoſt uſeleſs. There is nothing in the whole world equal to this work, which is continued for 1200 miles, through three, great provinces, not only carried through low lands and vallies, but alſo over hills, and up the ſteep brows of the higheſt mountains. One-third part of the able-bodied men in China, were employed in building it; and the workmen were enjoined, under pain of death, to place the materials of it ſo cloſe, that the leaſt en⯑trance might not be left for any inſtrument of iron. Its ſolidity, therefore, has preſerved it to this day en⯑tire. Verbieſt had the curioſity to take the altitude of one of thoſe mountains over which it extends, and found it was 1,030 feet above the level of the ſpot where he ſtood; ſo that it is built in places, which ſeem inac⯑ceſſible, and is ſtrengthened with a ſeries of forts. The beginning of this wall, is a large, ſtone bulwark, raiſed in the ſea, to the eaſt of Peking, and reaches to the mountains near the city of Kin, on the yellow river; and, between theſe two places, it meets with no inter⯑ruption, except to the north of the city of Suen, in the province of Pe-tcheli, where it is intercepted by a ridge of hideous and inacceſſible mountains, to which it is cloſely united; and by the river Hoang-ho, which paſſes through it, in its courſe to the ſea. As to other rivers, of inferior ſize, arches have been conſtructed, [246] like thoſe of a bridge, thro' which they find a paſſage. It has no kind of ſupport, but what is uſually given to common walls, and is almoſt of the ſame form. The foundation conſiſts of large blocks of ſquare ſtones, laid in mortar; but all the reſt is of brick. It is, through its whole length, wide enough for five or ſix horſemen to travel a-breaſt, with eaſe; and, at the top, flat, and well paved with cut ſtone. It is built like the walls of the common cities of the empire, terraced, and caſed with brick; and is from 20 to 25 feet high, with ſquare towers, at the diſtance of two bow-ſhots from each other, and embraſures, at equal diſtances; and where it riſes over a rock, or mountain, there is an aſcent, by eaſy, ſtone-ſtairs. Mr. Bell, who accompanied Captain Iſmailof, in his embaſſy to Peking, in 1719, tells us, this wall was begun, and completely finiſhed, in the ſhort ſpace of five years; and, it is reported, that the labourers ſtood ſo cloſe for many miles, that they could hand the materials to one another. The whole is ſo ſtrong, and well built, that it ſcarcely needs any repairs; and, in ſuch a dry climate, may remain in he ſame condition for many ages. The gates of this wall are all ſtrongly fortified.

Before I proceed in the deſcription of this empire, I will give my readers a ſhort account of the great revo⯑lution which happened in that part of the world, about 150 years ago, which united China with many Tartar kingdoms, and which ſeated a Tartar prince upon the [247] throne, and by whoſe deſcendants it has been govern⯑ed ever ſince.

A king of Niuche, one of the little Tartar kingdoms, north-eaſt of China, complained of ſome abuſes put upon his people, by the Chineſe merchants; which not being redreſſed, he reſolved to make repriſals; and, accordingly, invaded the province of Leo-tong, which lies without the great Chineſe wall. The Emperor ſent an army againſt the Tartar prince, and the war con⯑tinued ſome time, with various ſucceſs.

In the mean time, there happened a famine in ſome provinces of China, and the people, unable to pay the uſual taxes, rebelled, under one Ly-cungz, their leader; and, to oppoſe this man, a great army was raiſed; but this army deſerted to the rebels, who advanced to the city of Peking, and having a correſpondence with the Emperor's eunuchs, who had then a principal ſhare in the adminiſtration, were treacherouſly admitted with⯑in the walls, and had abſolutely entered the palace-gates, before the Emperor had notice of their approach. The unfortunate prince, finding himſelf betrayed, re⯑ſolved to break through the rebels, with 600 of his guards then about him, or periſh in the attempt; but theſe, alſo, baſely abandoning him, he retired into a garden, with his only daughter, and having firſt written a letter to Ly-cungz, adviſing him to ſpare his ſub⯑jects, he firſt ſtabbed his daughter, and then hanged [248] himſelf. The Empreſs, the governor of the city, and many more of the court, of both ſexes, either to pre⯑vent the barbarous uſage they expected from the re⯑bels, or in compliment to the Emperor, choſe to dye with him, and became their own executioners. The uſurper immediately took poſſeſſion of the throne, and exerciſed all manner of cruelties on the poor citizens of Peking.

The uſurper then left a garriſon in Peking, and marched againſt the Chineſe general ſent out againſt the Tartar prince, carrying that general's father with him; and, having laid ſiege to a town where that ge⯑neral had ſhut himſelf up, he threatened to put his father to death, in the moſt cruel manner he could in⯑vent, unleſs he ſurrendered; and ſoon after put his threats into execution. This general, whoſe name was Uſangucy, provoked by his father's death, and the deſtruction of his prince, made pe [...]ce with the Tartars, and craved their aſſiſtance againſt the uſurper. Accord⯑ingly, they marched againſt him, with their united forces; but he fled back to Peking, where, having burnt and plundered his people, with the ſpoils, he retired into the province of Xenſi.

The citizens of Peking having ſuffered much from the uſurper, conſidered the Tartars as their deliverers; and Uſangucy leaving them in poſſeſſion of Peking, whilſt he purſued the rebel Ly-cungz, and the reſt of [249] the empire being diſtracted by ſeveral potent factions, ſome declaring for a ſon of the late Emperor's, whilſt others, under the ſpecious pretence of maintaining their liberties, ſet up for themſelves; Xunchi, who was already in poſſeſſion of the capital, got himſelf declared Emperor, and invited all the Tartars who were before ſettled in China, as well as the little Tar⯑tar princes his neighbours, to remove to Peking; and, by force, expelled all the Chineſe inhabitants from the city. The deſcendants of this man, have continued on the throne to the preſent day.

Great Tartary, with China, as now united, extends from 21 degrees north-latitude, to 55 degrees; ſo that, the whole length, from north to ſouth, is 34 degrees, or 2,040 Engliſh miles. If we extend it to 60 degrees north, as ſome do, and take in the iſland of Haynam in the ſouth, which lies in 18 degrees of latitude, it makes the length of the empire 2,520 miles. In breadth, from eaſt to weſt, in moſt places, it is 1,000 miles; and, conſequently, its circumference muſt be 7,000 miles, and upwards.

China then is ſo extenſive, that all its provinces, of which there are 15, cannot enjoy the ſame temperature; their climate, and the nature of their ſoil, varies, the nearer to, or more remote they are from the ſouth. Severe cold is felt at Peking, whilſt the ſouthern pro⯑vinces are expoſed to exceſſive heat. Mandeſ [...]oe ſays, [250] that, in the northern parts, the complexions of the people are white, and their fruits like thoſe of Europe; whereas, in the ſouth, the people are black, and their fruits, ſuch as are the produce of India: and Hackluyt ſays, the poſt is three months travelling from the ſea-coaſt to the city of Peking.

The principal mountains of China, are in the north⯑ern and weſtern parts of the empire; and the latter are rendered fruitful, by the labour and induſtry of the in⯑habitants; but the former, being bleak and rocky, are uncultivated. Some are covered with foreſts of tall, ſtrait trees, of every ſpecies, fit for building, and ſhip-timber; and very enormous trunks are ſometimes re⯑moved, to the diſtance of 300 leagues, by land and water-carriage, for public works. Other mountains are rich with quickſilver, iron, tin, copper, gold, and ſilver; but the wiſdom and prudence of early dynaſties, prevented the latter mines from being opened, leſt the people ſhould be induced to neglect the natural riches of their ſoil, by applying to other labours than thoſe of agriculture.

Superſtitious natives relate ſome ſingular and extra⯑ordinary phenomena of their mountains. There are ſeveral, they ſay, which produce nothing but uſeful and ſalutary herbs, and where nothing elſe will grow. They aſſure us, that others have the property of render⯑ing thoſe immortal who retire to them; that a moun⯑tain [251] of Chenſi, which has the figure of a large cock, crows ſometimes ſo loud, that it may be heard at the diſtance of three leagues; that another, in the province of Fo-kien, trembles at the approach of a ſtorm, and ſhakes to and fro, like a tree, agitated by the wind. But the Chineſe admire, above all others, a moun⯑tain of Fo-kien; the whole of which is an idol, or ſtatue of the god, Fo. This coloſſus is of ſo monſtrous a ſize, that each of its eyes is ſeveral miles in circum⯑ference, and its noſe ſeveral leagues in extent. It is very extraordinary, that the Chineſe, who conſider a flat noſe as a beauty, ſhould have given their favourite idol one of ſo prodigious a length. But it evidently appears, that the ſhape of this mountain is not the work of art. There are ſome mountains, however, that have been ſhaped by labour. Such are thoſe of the five horſes heads, from their reſembling ſuch. Some have very deep and ſpacious caverns, excavated; and others are pierced through, for a great length. In that of the province of Fo-kien, near the city of Hen-goa, is a handſome terrace, ſix feet wide, 12 miles long, at the foot of two hills, paved all the way with broad ſtones, and planted on each ſide with ſhady trees, and benches to reſt on. There are many of theſe cauſeways, cut in the ſame manner; ſome between, others by the ſides of the mountains, with horrid precipices above and below: and others have ſteps cut into the rock, from the bot⯑tom to the top.

[252]There are not wanting, in this country, volcanoes, or burning mountains; the moſt remarkable, is that called Lino-ſing, which is very high, and vomits fire, cinders, and aſhes, and ſometimes torrents of ſulphur, and other minerals.

Though the gold mines here are not ſuffered to be opened, the Chineſe carry on a good traffick in gold, having plenty of gold-ſand waſhed down, by torrents, from theſe mountains, in rainy ſeaſons, and caught by fleeces, and other ſtrainers, laid a-croſs the water; or found among the ſand and mud, of their rivers. Mul⯑titudes of people live wholly by this buſineſs of gather⯑ing gold, which is ſo pure as to need no refining. As gold is not here coined, it is ſold, like other mer⯑chandiſe; the Emperor is the only perſon who poſſeſſes any quantity of gold-plate. They have ſome few lead mines, but this mineral is very ſcarce.

Beſides common copper, the Chineſe have another kind, which they call Pe-tang, or white copper; it is known in England, under the name of Tut-a-neg, and is ſo pure and fine, that it approaches near to ſilver. A number of experiments have been made of it at Peking, which ſufficiently prove, that this copper does not owe its whiteneſs to any mixture. Different works are made of it: but, to render it malleable, they mix it with a little zinc; and, to add to its colour, with a about a fifth part of ſilver. They have alſo a yellow copper, reſembling gold.

[253]On the ſea-coaſt, there are found many ſalt-pits, the ſalt of which is conveyed over all the empire; and the province of Kian-nan ſupplies ſuch a quantity, as to bring in 32 millions of taëls (each taël 6s. Engliſh), or 9,600,000£. into the Emperor's treaſury.

In ſeveral parts of the province of Honan, there is found a ſort of ſalt-earth, which, being boiled and chry⯑ſtalized, makes a very good, white ſalt; and, in ſome places, the ground, after rain, ſpews up a kind of froth, which is made into an excellent ſoap. The pro⯑vince of Quangſi, is famed for a yellow earth, which, taken internally, is an antidote to poiſon; and, by out⯑ward application, heals the bite of venemous creatures. There is here, alſo, a kind of earth, of a fine, ver⯑milion colour, and another of a beautiful white, which the ladies uſe as coſmetics and rouge. The ſame pro⯑vince furniſhes, alſo, that valuable clay, in great abundance, of which the porcelain is made.

Quarries of marble, and coal-mines, are ſo abundant in every province of the empire, that there is, perhaps, no country in the world where it is ſo plentiful; but they make not much uſe of the marble in their public buildings. Here are alſo to be found, in many places, lapis lazuli; and the moſt beautiful rock-chryſtal in the world, of which they make ſeals, buttons, and a variety of toys. The province of Yun-nan furniſhes real rubies, but they are very ſmall: the neighbouring [254] kingdom of Laos, however, has a mine full of preciouſ ſtones, from which rubies are dug, ſometimes as large as a walnut. Emeralds are alſo found there. The king of Laos has one in his poſſeſſion, equal in ſize to an orange; but many are wſhed down the current, by a river that croſſes this mountain, that weigh a quarter, or a third part of an ounce.

In various channels made by torrents, and in rivers flowing at the bottom of mountains, are found certain ſonorous ſtones, reſembling thoſe pebbles which are found in the ſtreams, that ruſh down through the clefts of mountains. This ſtone is called Yu; large ones are very rare. The biggeſt yet found, was only three feet long, and about 22 inches broad.

Five diſtinct properties are remarked in this ſtone; hardneſs, weight, colour, grain, and ſound. Beautiful Yu are ſo hard, that, when cut and poliſhed like agate, the beſt tempered ſteel glides upon them, without making any impreſſion. The more careful Nature has been in their formation, the more difficult it is to cut them; but, the harder they are, the better poliſh they receive.

The weight of the Yu is proportionable to its hard⯑neſs. An unpoliſhed block, in the Emperor's palace, which, to all appearance, one man can lift, it meaſur⯑ing no more than 30 inches by 6, cannot be moved, but [255] by four men. It is of an irregular figure, and has a green colour; but the moſt eſteemed colour, is that of whey; though there are ſome of a bright blue, azure, indigo, citron-yellow, orange, logwood-red, pale green, ſea-green, deep green, cinder-grey, &c. and ſome vari⯑egated, in veins and ſhades. The hardieſt and heavieſt, have always the fineſt grain. The Yu emits ſparks, when ſtruck with ſteel, and reſembles agate.

But the rareſt quality of this ſtone, is its ſinging, or ſounding when ſtruck, and yielding an excellent tone. Various ſtones yield various ſounds, according to their grain and hardneſs. Very hard ſtones are exceedingly ſonorous; ſome ſoft ones, emit a very ſweet ſound; and there are others, as light as a pumice-ſtone, which give a very agreeable ſound. Of theſe ſtones, the Chineſe make muſical inſtruments.

The chemiſts and naturaliſts of Europe have never yet attempted to find out whether ſome of our ſtones may not have the ſame properties. The Romans were certainly acquainted with a ſonorous ſtone, for Pliny, when ſpeaking of curious ſtones, obſerves, that the ſtone called Calcophonas, or brazen ſound, is black; and that, according to the etymology of its name, ſent forth, when ſtruck, a ſound like that of braſs. His words are: Calcophonas nigra eſt; ſed illiſa, aeris tinnitum reddit. lib. xxxvii. ſect. 56.

[256]The Chineſe tell us, that this ſtone was known in their country, ſo early as 206 years before the Xtian era; and was then the moſt valuable preſent that could be made to the Emperor. The muſical inſtrument made in China of this ſtone, is called king. Such an inſtru⯑ment was brought to France, and the late Duke of Chaulnes took great pains to ſearch into the nature of the ſtone: the reſult of his enquiries is, that it is a ſpecies of black marble; this ſtone, reſembling ex⯑ternally what we call touch-ſtone. He accordingly had a king made of the black marble of Flanders, and it was almoſt as ſonorous as that from China; but the ſtone Yu, of which the Chineſe form their moſt beautiful king, is nothing more than a kind of agate.

Among a number of lakes, one of which is 80 leagues in circumference, and another, in the province of Kiang-ſi, 100 leagues in length, ſubject, like the ſea, to ſtorms and tempeſts; I ſay, among theſe, and an in⯑finity of great and ſmall rivers, that water this vaſt em⯑pire, there are two particularly celebrated. The firſt is the Yang-tſe-Kiang; or Son of the Sea. It riſes in Yun-nen; and, after flowing through an extent of 400 leagues, and watering four provinces, empties itſelf into the Eaſtern ſea, forming an iſland at its mouth, from the ſand it throws up. The Chineſe have a pro⯑verb, viz.—‘The ſea hath no bounds, and Kiang no bottom.’—Before Nanking, and at the diſtance [257] of 30 leagues from its mouth, it is half a league wide. Its navigation is dangerous; and a number of veſſels are loſt in it almoſt every day. It flows with great ra⯑pidity, from ſeveral iſlands in its courſe; produces a multitude of reeds, from 10 to 12 feet high, which ſerves the provinces, through which it paſſes, with fuel; but when ſwelled with torrents, carries away the greater part of theſe iſlands, and forms others, from their wrecks.

The other great river is, the Hoang-ho, or yellow river; ſo called, from the yellowneſs of its water, oc⯑caſioned, in time of rain, by the yellow clay and ſand waſhed into it. This riſes in the mountains which bor⯑der the province of Te-tchuen on the weſt; and, after a courſe of near 600 leagues, a-croſs Tartary and China, diſcharges itſelf into the Eaſtern ſea, not far from the mouth of the Kiang. It is very broad and rapid, but ſo ſhallow, as ſcarce to be navigable; yet often overflows its banks, and drowns whole villages. Precautions are taken to prevent this, by dikes; but theſe do not entirely free the neighbourhood from fear of inundation. The inhabitants of the province of Honan, to avert this evil, have ſurrounded moſt of their cities, at the diſtance of three furlongs, with ſtrong ramparts of earth, faced with turf.

The ingenuity which the Chineſe diſplay in turning the happy ſituation of their lakes and rivers to the [258] beſt advantage, is the admiration of all Europe. One of their chief works for the convenience of trade, is the celebrated Royal canal, 600 leagues in length, reach⯑ing from Canton to Peking, and forming a commu⯑nication between all the ſouthern and northern pro⯑vinces. Its navigation being no where interrupted, but by the mountain Meiling, where paſſengers are obliged to travel ten or twelve leagues over land; but, if they will go ſome way round, through the provinces of Quang-ſi and Hou-quang, they need not quit their barks at all. It may readily be conceived, what im⯑menſe labour it muſt have coſt, to form a commu⯑nication between ſo many rivers, and how many ob⯑ſtacles muſt have occurred, in a canal of ſo vaſt an extent, in the courſe of which they have overcome the reſiſtance of Nature, with dikes, moles, &c. In this principal canal, a number of others end, which ſtretch out into the country, and form a communication be⯑tween the cities, towns, and villages, as they paſs. The patience and perſeverance of the Chineſe, in theſe uſe⯑ful undertakings, have ſurmounted obſtacles, that would have diſcouraged any other people. Such, for ex⯑ample, is part of a canal from Chao king to Ning-po. Near theſe cities, there are two canals, the waters of which do not communicate; one being 12 feet above the level of the other. To render this place paſſable for boats, for they have not yet the art of making flood-gates, as in Europe; they have conſtructed a dou⯑ble glacis of large ſtones, or rather two inclined planes, [259] which unite in an acute angle at their upper extremity, like the ridge of a barn, and extend, on each ſide, to the ſurface of the water. If the bark is in the lower canal, they draw it up the plane of the firſt glacis, by the aſſiſt⯑ance of ſeveral capſtans, till it reaches the angle; when, by its own weight, it ſlides down the ſecond glacis, into the water of the higher canal, with the velocity of an arrow; and, it is wonderful, that theſe barks, which are generally very long and heavy laden, never burſt aſun⯑der, when balanced in the air, on the edge of this acute angle. They are indeed conſtructed for the purpoſe, and no ſuch accident ever happens.

Though their ſkill in navigation is but poor, yet, as there is ſcarce a city, or a village, throughout the em⯑pire, eſpecially in the ſouthern provinces, but what en⯑joys the convenience of a navigable river, dike, canal, or arm of the ſea; wherever there is a town upon the ſhore, there is another of boats upon the water; and ſome ports are ſo blocked up with veſſels, that it will take ſeveral hours to get croſs them, to land. Theſe veſſels are made as commodious as houſes; and there are many born here, and die in them; and, on board, they keep hogs, poultry, dogs, and other domeſtic ani⯑mals, as if they were on ſhore.

Beſides theſe veſſels, there are a prodigious number of floats of timber, perpetually going up and down the rivers and canals, which carry whole villages of people [260] on them. This timber is cut chiefly in the province of Su-chuen, adjoining to India, on the weſt. Theſe floats are ſome of them a mile in length, riſing two or three feet above the water, on which the people build little wooden huts, or cabins, at equal diſtances, where they live, till they have diſpoſed of the timber on which they are built. Great quantities of it are thus con⯑veyed as far as Peking, being above 300 leagues from the place where it is cut.

The Emperor has 9,999 large veſſels in his ſervice, in the ſouthern provinces. Magaillans ſays, they affect this number, becauſe 9, with them, ſounds very pom⯑pous. Theſe veſſels (Kieou) are as large as ſhips, from 100 to 1000 tons burden, and yet they work them with great dexterity, with a few hands. They are flat-bot⯑tomed, the head and ſtern ſquare, but the fore-part not quite ſo broad as the ſtern, and the ſtern open in the middle, to the end, that the rudder, which they ſhut up as in a chamber, may be defended from the waves. They have a main-maſt, and a fore-maſt. The fore-maſt has a yard, and a ſquare ſail; but the ſail of the main-maſt is narrow at top, like a ſloop's ſail. Their maſts are not pieced, as ours are, and ſet one on the head of the other, but are one ſingle tree, prodigouſly high and thick, and ſtrongly ſiezed by two ſide-beams, that ſtrengthen it wonderfully. Their ſails are made of a thick matt, ſtrengthened with laths, or ſplit cane, at about two feet diſtance. Upon the deck they build [261] little rooms, or cabins, from one end to the other, raiſed about ſeven or eight feet high, painted and gilded within and without, and ſo very neat and commodious, as to make the longeſt voyage tolerable. The mandarins, or great officers of ſtate, often travel together in this man⯑ner, and no where ſpend their hours more agreeably; for here they viſit each other without ceremony, and play, and paſs away their time, as if they were of one family; which freedoms are never taken, by ma⯑giſtrates, on ſhore. All ſhips carry frightful images of their gods, and have altars, and lamps burning before them.

The canals are often lined, on each ſide, to the depth of 10 or 12 feet, with fine, ſquare, free-ſtone; and, in ſome places, with grey marble. Some have banks, 20 or 25 feet high, on each ſide, ſo as to require a great number of engines to raiſe the water into the fields over them. Some are cut more than ten leagues in a ſtraight line. The canal, north-weſt of the city of Hang-tcheou, is lined on each ſide with free-ſtone, with a ſtone cauſeway on the top; and houſes are built on each bank, as cloſe together as thoſe in a ſtreet, and are as full of people; and both ſides of the canal are covered with barks. A number of ſtone-bridges are thrown over theſe canals, of from three to ſeven arches; the middle one, always high enough to let a bark paſs, without taking down the maſt.

[262] Nieuhoff ſays, the ſhips of the Emperor, and gover⯑nors of provinces, lie in the water like caſtles; and are divided into apartments for all the uſes of ſtate and con⯑venience, and are very well furniſhed. The windows and doors are made, like grates, with thin, tranſparent oyſter-ſhells, inſtead of glaſs; or elſe fine linen, or ſilk, ſpread with clear wax, ornamented with flowers. Galleries are made without, and the inſide is painted with all manner of curious colours. The timber-work is ſo well jointed with oakum, that there is ſcarce any appearance of iron-work.—I ſhall have occaſion to ſpeak of theſe barks again, when I mention their modes of travelling.—The ſhips which carry fiſh, called Saull, and the Emperor's ſilks, to court, are 365 in number, finely gilt, within and without, and painted red; and all other veſſels ſtrike ſail to theſe. In the province of Nanking, there is a multitude of pleaſure-boats, richly gilt and painted, and more like houſes than ſhips, in which many of the Chineſe ſpend their eſtates; and there is ſuch a vaſt number of veſſels in Fo-kien, that Nieuhoff ſays, the inhabitants offered the Emperor, when he was going to war with the Japaneſe, to make him a bridge of boats, which ſhould reach from China to Japan (two day's ſail). Indeed, there is ſuch a con⯑tinual and uninterrupted plying of boats, from one place to another, over all the ſouthern provinces, and navigable rivers, and theſe ſo numerous, that the country reſembles ſo many Venices, where all the ways and ſtreets are canals.

[263]But, notwithſtanding the ſailing on their rivers and canals, is exceedingly pleaſant in general, it is ſome⯑times very dangerous, from the ſeveral, rapid torrents they have to paſs. Le Comte tells us, he was once on ſuch a ſtream, when the veſſel was whirled round with an incredible ſwiftneſs, for a conſiderable time, and at laſt daſhed upon a rock. That in the province of Fo-kien, for eight or ten days ſail, veſſels are in continual danger of periſhing; for there are ſo many cataracts, and rocky ſtraights, that it is hardly poſſible for the boats to paſs through, without being daſhed to pieces, on one ſide or other. Every day, almoſt, ſome veſſel or other is ſhipwrecked in theſe torrents; but they have often the good fortune to ſplit near the ſhores, and the paſſengers are ſaved, though ſometimes the veſſel is daſhed to pieces, and the crew buried in a moment. They are uſually under ſail, or tugged with ropes; but, on great rivers, and in croſſing lakes, oars are made uſe of. The Chineſe, continues Le Comte, who was often in their perilous voyages, have a knack of ſailing, in rapid torrents, which is wonderful and incredible. They, in a manner, force Nature, and make a voyage without any dread, which other nations would even look at with horror. In ſome of their rivers, the cataracts are continually broken by a thouſand points of rocks, that ſcarce leave breadth enough for the paſſage of a bark. Nothing but turnings and windings, water-falls, and contrary currents, that daſh one againſt another, and hurry a boat, like an arrow from a bow. You are [264] always within two feet of ſhelves; and, if you avoid one, you fall upon another, and from that to a third; yet the pilot, with a ſkill not ſufficiently to be admired, eſcapes ſhipwreck every moment. There is no people in the world capable of undertaking ſuch voyages, but the Chineſe; who are not diſcouraged at the daily wrecks that happen, and who, if they carried double the num⯑ber of men, fifteen inſtead of eight, would avoid many of theſe calamities; but they would rather hazard their effects and their lives, than be at a trifling charge, more than they thought abſolutely neceſſary.

Their barks, however, are conſtructed accordingly. They are divided into five or ſix apartments; ſo that, if they touch upon a rock, and make a breach in one, the others are water-tight, and keep them a-float till they can ſtop the hole; and, to moderate the rapidity of the motion, in places where the water is not too deep, they check the velocity of the veſſel, by thruſting a pole to the bottom, and bearing againſt it; ſo that, when the torrent is even and uniform, let it be as rapid as it will, the boat flows as ſlowly as on the calmeſt channel: but when it winds in and out, they have recourſe to a double rudder, made in the faſhion of an oar, 40 or 50 feet long, which the mariners manage with ſuch ſkill and dexterity, to drive their veſſel on, or turn it right, as they would have it, to fall juſt into the ſtream, to ſhun one rock without daſhing on another, to cut a [265] current, or purſue the fall of the water, without dip⯑ping headlong into it.

The Chineſe have had ſtout ſhips from all anti⯑quity; which, in ſome meaſure, accounts for their ad⯑dreſs in navigation. They boaſt the invention of the mariner's compaſs, though they have made very little improvement in it. As they have never been expoſed to the neceſſity of fighting naval battles, except on the river Kiang, round and near their own coaſts, or in the neighbourhood of the iſles of Japan, they are bad ſailors, in an open ſea. Of veſſels deſtined for ſea-engagements, they have ſeveral kinds. Thoſe belong⯑ing to the port of Canton, are much larger than thoſe employed on the coaſts of Fo-kien; the latter are built only of fir, whereas, the veſſels at Canton, are con⯑ſtructed of iron-wood. In naval battles, they are found to be much ſtronger and more uſeful, though they are heavy, and ſlow ſailors. But theſe veſſels laſt a long time, and worms never pierce them. They have faſt ſailing veſſels, for purſuing pirates, and carrying diſpatches, that draw from ſix to ſeven feet water, and no weather prevents them from putting to ſea. They have others, to open the waves, that draw only three or four feet water; theſe have a ſharp prow, a helm, a ſail, and four oars, and will carry from 30 to 50 ſol⯑diers. Theſe, they ſay, fear neither wind nor billows. The anchors are made of iron-wood.

[266]They have alſo other veſſels, to run among ſand-banks, conſtructed with a flat bottom, for gliding along the coaſts of the northern ſea, where there is little depth of water; but their beſt veſſels, the ſwifteſt and lighteſt for ſailing, are the hawk's-bill veſſels, the prow and poop of which are built in the ſame manner, ſo as that they can advance, or retreat, without putting about; and the decks are defended, on each ſide, by a kind of parapet, made of bamboo, which ſhelters the rowers, and the ſoldiers, from the weapons of the enemy.

Some of theſe veſſels are armed with cannon. Each ſhip has a captain, as ours have, but his buſineſs is only to keep the crew in awe, and victual them. In ſea-en⯑gagements, the ſoldiers will place a pair of corks under their arms, throw themſelves into the ſea, and, with their ſcymitars, attack their enemy, as actively as if on land.—(The plate repreſents an attack by pyrates, in one of their large canals.)—But, with all this adroitneſs and courage, it may eaſily be perceived, that a whole fleet of ſuch armed barks, would not be able to ſtand an attack from only a few of our European ſhips of war. And if, at the cloſe of this naval account of the Chineſe, we may hazard a reflection—fifty years hence may put them on another ſyſtem of naval war, when they will, probably, have ſuch powerful neighbours as the Engliſh colonies in New Zealand may hereafter prove to them.

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[267] CHAP. II. Of the Productions.

ALL travellers agree in their accounts of the fer⯑tility of China, and of the extent and beauty of its plains; neither encloſures, hedges, or ditches, are ſeen in them; ſcarce even a ſingle tree; ſo careful is the huſbandman not to loſe an inch of his land. The northern plains, produce wheat; the ſouthern, being low and watery, rice. In many places, the ground yields two crops a-year; and in the interval, between the harveſts, the people will ſow ſeveral ſorts of pulſe, and other ſmall grain; and yet, famines are frequent in this country: and why? becauſe, in times of ſcarcity, the Chineſe, from their ſituation, can receive no aſſiſtance from their neighbours, and are often under the neceſſity of ſupplying them.

Their neighbours on the north are the Mongol, or Mogul Tartars, tributaries indeed to China; but a people ſo extremely lazy, ſowing millet only for their own uſe, and living principally on fleſh.

On the north-eaſt, the province of Leao-tong is very fertile, but too far from Peking to ſend its proviſions there. Beſides, all carriage is impracticable, but in winter, when proviſion is tranſported frozen.

[268]Korea does not ſupply China with corn; and as to Japan, on the eaſt, though only three or four days ſail from the continent, no Chineſe veſſel ever yet attempted to go there for proviſions; the Japaneſe either having nothing to ſpare, or foreign merchants meeting there with too many inſults.

The other iſlands, ſo far from being able to ſupply China, are often in want of a ſupply themſelves. What prevents famines in Europe, is the facility with which one country can be ſupplied from another; but China is deſtitute of this advantage. Situated, alone, in the extremity of Aſia, ſurrounded by barbarous nations, it muſt procure, from its own ſoil, ſufficient nouriſhment for its numerous inhabitants, or a famine will enſue. To avert this calamity, is the conſtant, grand object of its publlc miniſters. Granaries and magazines are erected in every province, and in moſt of the prin⯑cipal cities, for the relief of the people, in times of ſcarcity.

China, in its vaſt extent, contains almoſt every ſpe⯑cies of tree known in Europe, and, in the mountains, in the province of Tche-kiang, grow pines, ſo large, that 40 men may be incloſed in their trunks: but I ſhall only deſcribe ſuch trees as are peculiar to this country.

[269]One is the tallow-tree, the ſize of our cherry-tree. Its branches are crooked, its leaves ſhaped like a heart, and of a bright, red colour. It has a ſmooth bark, a ſhort trunk, and its top is round and buſhy. The fruit is contained in a rind, which, when ripe, and opened, divides into three parts, like a cheſnut, and about the ſize of a walnut. It is the pulp with which theſe ker⯑nels are covered, that has the properties of tallow, and of which candles are made. Not having the art of pu⯑rifying it, as we do our tallow, it has a diſagreeable ſmell, produces a thick ſmoke, and a faint light; but they mix it with linſeed-oil, which ſoftens and ſweetens it.

The next is their wax-tree, which produces a white wax, almoſt equal in quality to bees-wax. This wax is depoſited by a ſmall worm that buries itſelf in the bark, and forms there a kind of comb, much ſmaller than a honey-comb. There are two trees in this country, and two only, that afford food to this inſect; and, of courſe, two only from which they can gather wax. One thrives beſt in dry, ſandy ſoils; the other, in moiſt, watry places. The firſt being of a ſhrubby kind, thrives in the worſt of ſoils, and will grow in any cli⯑mate. Walls may be covered with it, 10 or 12 feet high; and hedges made of it, in the open fields. The inſect that frequents this tree, does not naturally attach itſelf to it, but muſt be placed there. This operation is not difficult; and the tree once ſtocked, always retains [270] them. At the approach of winter, ſmall tumours are obſerved in the bark, which increaſe, till they are as large as walnuts. Theſe are ſo many neſts filled with the eggs of the inſect, which are called Pe-la-tching. When the tree ſhoots forth its bloſſoms in ſpring, it gives life to the inſects that cover it. This is the ſea⯑ſon to depoſit neſts on thoſe trees that have none; which is thus done: ſmall bundles of ſtraw are made, on each of which ſeven or eight neſts are placed; theſe bundles are tied to the branches, ſo as to place the neſts imme⯑diately on the bark. When the inſects are hatched, they run upon the branches, diſperſe themſelves over the leaves, and perforate the bark, under which they retire; but always come forth, at the proper ſeaſon for making their wax.

About the middle of June, this wax makes its ap⯑pearance; firſt, like the fine filaments of ſoft wool, riſing from the bark, and encloſing the body of the inſect; by degrees, theſe filaments become a kind of down, and ſo, thicker and thicker, during the ſummer-heats, till it forms a cruſt, defending the animal from heat, rain, and ants. This cruſt is the wax, which is gathered before the hoar-froſts come, in September. The Chineſe ſay, if the wax was left too long on the tree, the inſects would not make their neſts. The wax is white and bright, and preſerves its tranſparency, to the depth of an inch. If an ounce of it is added to a pound of oil, it forms a wax, little inferior to bee's-wax. [271] It is uſed, alſo, to heal wounds, prevent ſwoon⯑ings, and allay palpitations of the heart.

The next curious tree they have, is their Tſi-chu, or varniſh-tree, whoſe bark and leaves reſemble thoſe of the aſh, but bears neither fruit nor flowers. It ſeldom grows higher than about 15 feet; or larger in the trunk, than about two feet, or two feet and an half in girth. The varniſh procured from this tree, is a kind of gum, diſtilled only in ſummer-nights, from inciſions made in the bark, drop by drop, into ſmall ſhells, placed to receive it in. A thouſand trees, in one night, will yield about 20 pounds of varniſh.

This varniſh is not extracted by the owner of the trees, but by merchants, who purchaſe a grove of them for the ſeaſon, at the rate of three-pence a foot. One workman is ſufficient for 50 feet of timber, and his pay is, an ounce of ſilver per month. Whilſt this varniſh flows, it exhales a malignant vapour, the bad effects of which is prevented, by the workmen anointing their faces and hands with rape-oil, in which a quantity of thoſe fleſhy filaments are boiled, that are found in hog's lard, and which do not melt. After eating, they waſh their whole bodies with a decoction of cheſnut-tree bark, mixed with certain drugs; and, when at work near the trees, put their heads in a ſail-cloth bag, in which there are two holes for their eyes, and cover their bodies with a doe-ſkin apron, tied round their [272] necks and waiſts; with boots of the ſame on their legs, and coverings on their arms. Without this precaution, a collector of varniſh would be puniſhed for his raſh⯑neſs. He would be ſoon afflicted, as with a univerſal leproſy, and would fall a ſacrifice to the diſtemper, if not relieved by thoſe remedies that are ſometimes ap⯑plied, with ſucceſs, in ſuch caſes.

When the varniſh is collected, it is put into ſmall caſks, cloſely ſtopped; a pound of it, newly made, coſts him about 20d. ſterling, and he ſells it at a profit of cent. per cent.

Beſides the luſtre and beauty this varniſh gives to many of the Chineſe manufactures, it has the property of preſerving the wood from dampneſs and worms. It often happens, that the gloſs of varniſhed tables, and other furniture, is inſenſibly deſtroyed by tea, and other warm liquors; but the ſecret of reſtoring to this varniſh its ſhining, black colour, ſays a Chineſe author, is to expoſe it, for one night, to a white, hoar-froſt; or to cover it, ſome time, with ſnow;—a method any of our readers, poſſeſſed of ſuch varniſhed wood, may readily try.

A fourth tree peculiar to this country is, the Tie-ly-mou, or iron-wood, which grows to the height of our large oaks. Of this wood, the Chineſe make their anchors, [273] as I have obſerved before, it being exceedingly hard, and ſo heavy as to ſink in water.

A fifth is, the Nan-mou, or Chineſe cedar. This tree is one of the talleſt they have; its branches ſhoot up vertically, grow from the bark only to a certain height, and terminate in a buſh, or tufted top. Though called a cedar, its leaves are not like the cedar of Lebanon. Its wood here is conſidered as not liable to decay. All the palace-pillars, beams and doors, are made of this timber.

The Tſe-tan, or roſe-wood, is the next uncommon tree, and the moſt beautiful and valuable wood the Chineſe have. It is of a black colour, inclining to red, ſhaped and variegated with delicate veins, which reſemble painting: we have ſeen this wood in England.

The Tchang, or camphire tree, is alſo a production of China. Some of them are above 100 cubits high, and ſo large in the trunk, that 20 perſons cannot en⯑cloſe them. When old, the bodies of theſe trees will emit ſparks of [...]e; but their flame is ſo ſubtle, as not to injure even the hair of thoſe who are near it. Com⯑mon camphire, at Peking, is only one penny Engliſh per ounce, but it is inferior to that of Borneo. The camphire is obtained from this tree, by chopping the branches very ſmall, ſteeping them for three days in [274] ſpring-water, and afterwards boiling them, ſtirring them with a willow-ſtick. When they perceive the ſap of this chopped wood adhere to the ſtick, in the form of white froſt, they ſtrain it, and throw away the dregs. Next morning this decoction will coagulate, and form a ſolid maſs, which is afterwards purified by another proceſs.

They have another tree, called the Siang, which grows as tall as our cheſnut-trees, and bears a fruit which dyers uſe as a ſubſtitute for the gall-nut. It grows in barren and mountainous countries.

They have alſo a kind of pine-tree, called Keou-ouai, which grows in Tartary. Its wood is very hard, ſoon petrifies, and is converted into hones to ſharpen tools; but its ſap is poiſonous, and if any drops ſpurt on the ſkin of the woodman, it raiſes incurable bliſters.

The Tcha-ké is another uncommon tree, that grows in the northern coaſts of China. It has no bark, and will, when green, burn as readily as the drieſt wood. It makes very good charcoal, that burns free, without either ſmell or ſmoke.

The Tchu-kou, or paper-tree, is of great value to the Chineſe, the inner rind furniſhing them with the greateſt part of their paper. When its branches are broken, the bark peels off, in form of long ribbands. It is a kind [275] of ſycamore, and ſomething like the wild mulberry, but bears fruit like the fig, being full of milk, and adher⯑ing to the branches without a ſtalk. It grows on the mountains, in a rocky ſoil. The paper is made of the bark.

In the province of Quang-ſi, they have a tree, which, inſtead of pith, contains a ſoft pulp, yielding a kind of flour; and the bread made of it, is ſaid to be ex⯑ceedingly good.

The Tſe ſong-yuen-pe, or juniper-cypreſs, is one of the ſingularities of nature, partaking of the properties both of the juniper and cypreſs, in leaves and branches; ſome reſembling the juniper, others, the cypreſs. When the tree is young, its leaves are like thoſe of the for⯑mer; when old, like thoſe of the latter.

The Bamboo we are acquainted with. It is a kind of reed, which grows to the height and ſize of large trees. Although the trunk is hollow, and divided at certain ſpaces by knots, it is very ſtrong, and capable of ſuſtaining enormous weight. Theſe reeds are uſed as pipes to convey water. Split and divided into thin ſlips, they weave them into mats; and paper is made from a paſte procured from them, by bruiſing them, and ſteeping them in water; and canoes, or wherries, are alſo built with them. In ſome parts of China, there are whole foreſts of them.

[276]The cotton-ſhrub is one of the moſt uſeful in all China. On the ſame day that huſbandmen get in their harveſt, they ſow cotton in the ſame field, merely raking the earth over the ſeeds. As ſoon as the land is moiſt⯑ened with rain, or dew, a ſhrub grows up, about two feet high, the flowers of which appear about the middle of Auguſt, generally yellow, but ſometimes red; to this flower ſucceeds a button, in the ſhape of a pod, about the ſize of a nut. Forty days after the appearance of the flower, the pod opens, and yields three or four wrappings of cotton, extremely white, and of the ſame figure as the cod of a ſilk-worm. They are fixed to the bottom of the open pod, and contain ſeeds for the fol⯑lowing year.

With the milky juice diſtilled from inciſions in the ſtem of the Kon-chu ſhrub, they lay on their gold leaf in gilding. It is ſtronger than our ſize; and with the pith of another ſhrub, called Tong-tſao, a kind of cane, reſembling our alder-tree, they make their artificial flowers, fruits, and butterflies.

Betel and tobacco is raiſed here, in great abundance. The betel leaf they chew continually, as ſtrengthening the gums, expelling bile, comforting the brain, and a preſervative againſt aſthmas. This ſhrubs grows like ivy, and twines round other trees. They have alſo ſugar-canes in great quantities, and ſome ſpice-trees. Ginger grows wild, which makes a very pleaſant ſweet-meat, when preſerved green.

[277]But of all their trees and ſhrubs, that which merits moſt our attention, is the tea-plant, called, by them, Tcha, or Tha. Of this there are two ſorts; the Song-lo, or what we call Singlo, or green tea; and the Vou-y-tcha, or Bohea.

The tea-plant is cultivated in the fields, almoſt like vines, and is cropped at a certain height, to prevent it from growing too tall. But we muſt not confound with real tea, every thing which the Chineſe call Tcha. What is ſold in the province of Canton, as a delicate tea, is merely a kind of moſs, which grows on the rocks, near the city of Mang-ing-hien. If this com⯑modity is adulterated, even in China, can we flatter ourſelves with having pure and genuine tea in Europe? Perhaps we taſte nothing elſe, like many of the Chineſe, than moſs from the rocks of Mang-ing-hien.

When the tea-leaves have been collected, they are expoſed to the ſteam of boiling water, after which they are put upon plates of copper, and held over the fire, till they become dry and ſhivelled, ſuch as we receive them in Europe. Common tea is preſerved in narrow-mouthed, earthen veſſels; but that uſed by the wealthy, is encloſed in porcelain vaſes, or in leaden and tin ca⯑niſters, covered with fine bamboo-mats. The Chineſe, and people of Japan, generally keep their tea a year before they uſe it; having, as they ſay, when new, a narcotic quality. When they drink it, they infuſe it [278] in hot water, as we do, but drink it without any mix⯑ture, and even without ſugar.

The tea-ſhrub ſeems to be a ſpecies of the myrtle, ſeldom grows beyond the ſize of a roſe-buſh, loves a gravelly ſoil, and is uſually planted in rows, upon little hills, three or four feet diſtance from each other; its leaves are about an inch and a half long, narrow, ta⯑pering to a point, and indented, like our roſe, or ſweet-briar leaves, and its flowers are much like thoſe of the latter. The ſhrub is an ever-green, and bears a ſmall fruit, which contains round, blackiſh ſeeds, about the ſize of a large pea, but ſcarce one in a hundred comes to perfection. By theſe ſeeds the plant is propagated, nine or ten being put into a hole together, and the plants thence ariſing, are tranſplanted into proper ground.

The Chineſe know nothing of Imperial tea, and ſe⯑veral other names which, in Europe, ſerve to diſtinguiſh the goodneſs and price of this faſhionable commodity. In truth, though there are ſeveral kinds of tea, they are the product of the ſame plant; only differing in colour, fragrancy, &c. according to the difference of the ſoil, choice of leaves, time of gathering, and mode of pre⯑paration. The Vou-y, Bohi, or Bohea, is ſo called from its black colour: this differs from the Song-lo, Singlo, or Green tea, by its being gathered ſix or ſeven weeks ſooner, when the plant is in full bloom, and the leaves [279] full of juice; whereas the other, by being left ſo much the longer on the tree, loſes a great part of its juice, and contracts a different colour, taſte, and virtue, being more rough to the palate, and more raking to the ſtomach. The green tea is moſt uſed in China: the bottom leaves of the tree are generally coarſer than the upper leaves, and will not fetch ſo good a price; but the beſt of tea, in China, will not ſell for more than 9d. a-pound Engliſh, the worſt, 3d. Bohea tea, if good, ſhould be all of a dark colour, criſp, dry, and with a fine ſmell; green tea ſhould have a bluiſh caſt, none of the leaves browniſh, and ſhould be alſo criſp and fragrant.

The Chineſe have many flowering-trees, unknown to us, one of which I will mention for its curioſity.— This is the Out-om-chu, very much reſembling our ſy⯑camore. The leaves are between eight or nine inches diameter, growing to a ſtalk a foot long; it is extreme⯑ly tufted, and laden with cluſters of flowers, ſo very thick that the ſun cannot pierce it with its rays. Though the tree is large, the fruit is very ſmall, and is produced in the following manner. About the month of Auguſt, there ſprings out from the tops of the branches, little bunches of leaves different from the other, being whiter and ſofter, though equally as broad. Theſe are a ſub⯑ſtitute for flowers, and on the borders, or edges of each of theſe leaves, grow three or four ſmall grains, or kernels, the ſize of peas, incloſing a white ſubſtance, [280] of a very pleaſant taſte, like that of a haſle-nut, not ripe.

Beſides all the fruits common to Europe, they have ſome peculiar ones of their own. They have no good kinds of cherries; and, excepting grapes and pome⯑granates, the fruits they have, in common with us, are much inferior. They have ſeveral kinds of olives, different from ours; and their manner of gathering them is curious and convenient.—They bore a hole in the trunk of the tree, put ſome ſalt into it, and ſtop it up; and, at the end of a few days, all the fruit drops of itſelf.

Oranges, lemons and citrons, are very common. They have many ſpecies, beſides thoſe tranſplanted into Portugal; they have one ſort, no larger than a billiard-ball, which is moſt valued, and ſent as pre⯑ſents to India; and a fine ſpecies of melons. Apricots grow wild; and as to vines, they are conſidered as buſhes encumbering the ground, and are generally rooted up, to give place to other things, no wine being here made. Great quantities are raiſed in the pro⯑vince of Pe-tch [...]li; but the fruit is dried, to make raiſins of.

The ſimples and medicinal plants of China, form one of the richeſt and moſt extenſive branches of its na⯑tural hiſtory; but as it is not my intention to give a [281] Chineſe herbal, I will only mention the rhubarb and the ginſeng.

The Tai-hoang, or rhubarb, grows in ſeveral pro⯑vinces of the empire. Its ſtem is hollow, reſembles a ſmall bamboo, or Chineſe cane, and is very brittle; it riſes to the height of three or four feet, and is of a duſky, violet colour; in the month of March, it ſhoots forth long, thick leaves, very rough to the touch, and theſe leaves, ranged four by four, on the ſame ſtalk, form a calix. The flowers are yellow, and ſometimes violet; and, in June, it produces a ſmall, black ſeed, the ſize of a grain of millet, which is gathered in Sep⯑tember. Thoſe rhubarb roots are reckoned beſt, that are heavieſt and moſt variegated with veins. Some druggiſts will diſguiſe their old, decayed rhubarb, by giving it a yellow tincture; but, by handling it, the cheat is diſcovered, as the powder they uſe for this pur⯑poſe will ſtick to the fingers. Rhapontic is often mixed with rhubarb, by thoſe who ſend it to Europe; but this impoſition may likewiſe be diſcovered; the true rhu⯑barb being uſually in roundiſh pieces, and its internal grain, or ſtreaks, running tranſverſely, whereas rha⯑pontic is in longiſh pieces, with its ſtreaks running lengthways; beſides, rhapontic, being chewed, leaves a clammineſs in the mouth, which rhubarb does not. It is ſold cheap in China; a pound of the beſt coſts only two-pence.

[282]But the moſt eſteemed and valuable of all the plants in China, is the ginſeng, which the Manchew Tartars call, the Queen of plants. The Chineſe phyſicians ſpeak of it with a kind of enthuſiaſm, and enumerate its wonderful properties without end. The root of the ginſeng is white and tough, its ſtem ſmooth, round, and of a deep, red colour; its height, in proportion to its vigor. From the extremity of the ſtalk, proceed a number of branches, like radii from a center; each branch has five leaves, finely jagged, or indented, of a dark, green colour, above, and a ſhining, whitiſh green, underneath; and, on the upper ſide, they are beſet with ſmall, whitiſh hairs; from the center of theſe branches, riſes a ſecond ſtem, without leaves, and bearing a bunch of round berries, of a beautiful, red colour, but not fit to eat. Jartoux, who. ſaw ſuch a bunch, counted 24 berries, containing a white pulp, and two rough ſtones, like lentil ſtones. The pedicles on which the berries grow, riſe from the ſame center, and ſpreading, like the radii of a center, make the cluſter of a circular form. This plant dies every year, and its age may be known by the number of ſtems it has ſhot forth, of which there are always ſome marks left on the root.

The Chineſe never ſow the ſeed, becauſe it never has been known to grow. This probably gave riſe to the Tartar fable; that a bird eats the ſeed, when put into the earth, or when it drops, but not being able to digeſt [283] it; voids it with its dung, after it has been purified in its ſtomach, and that it ſprings up in the place where it is dropped. It is far more probable, that the germ of this plant is ſlow in opening, and that the huſk which contains it, remains long in the earth before it ſends forth any root.

This plant has at all times been the principal riches of Eaſtern Tartary, where it grows; being never found, but between the 39th and 47th degrees of northern la⯑titude, and between the 10th and 20th of eaſtern lon⯑gitude, from the meridian of Peking. All that extent of country is occupied by a long chain of mountains, covered with almoſt impenetrable foreſts. It is on the declivity of theſe frightful mountains, and in the fo⯑reſts, in the neighbourhood of fiſſures made by floods below rocks, at the roots of trees, and in the middle of herbs of every ſpecies, that this valuable plant is found. It never grows elſewhere. It delights in the ſhade, and ſeems every where deſirous of ſheltering itſelf from the ſun; of courſe, it is naturally an enemy to heat.

No private perſon is allowed to gather it. It belongs to the Emperor; and he ſends, annually, 10,000 ſol⯑diers into Tartary, to collect it; and this army of her⯑baliſts, ſpread themſelves over the ground methodically, and do their buſineſs with great arrangement. They ſuffer many hardſhips upon this expedition; carrying [284] with them neither tents nor beds, but a quantity of baked millet, as proviſion. Theſe men ſleep in the open air, and are thus employed ſix months in every year.

The Chineſe phyſicians, ſays Jartoux, have written whole volumes on the virtues of this root, and introduce it into almoſt all the remedies they preſcribe to the Great. Notwithſtanding the great quantities of it pro⯑cured from Tartary, it is always very dear in China; one ounce of this root, even at Peking, coſts ſeven or eight ounces of ſilver.

Lafitau, a Jeſuit miſſionary, diſcovered this root in Canada, in the mountains, not far from Montreal. The Indians called it Garent-oguen, which ſignifies, legs and thighs of things ſeparated; and the Chineſe name, Gin⯑ſeng, implies, man's thigh, the root reſembling, but badly, the ſhape of a man, downwards. Lafitau's Ga⯑rent-oguen anſwers Jartoux's deſcription of the Ginſeng exactly, and leaves it beyond a doubt, but that they are one and the ſame plant; which Lafitau conceives to be a ſpecies of Mandragora, or Mandrake, and to be the Mandragora of Theophraſtus, which was known to the ancients, and loſt ſince their time ^*. None of it [285] is found at Quebec; but it is known to every one at Montreal, being ſold there by the Iroquois Indians at a great price. It is to be met with, in abundance, towards the ſouth, round Montreal, in the neighbour⯑hood of Lake Huron, and in the country of the Iro⯑quoiſe, which is ſimilar to Tartary. Lafitau makes the following reflection, on the ſimilarity of the Chineſe and Canadian names—That the ſame ſignification could not have been affixed to the Chineſe word, and to that of the Iroquoiſe, without a communication of ideas; and, conſequently, of perſons: of courſe, it confirmed him in the opinion that he had before entertained, and ſince corroborated by the laſt voyage of Captain Cooke; that America and Aſia formed only one continent, and that they were originally united, either by Tartary, or to the north of China.

Before I cloſe my obſervations on the drugs of China, I muſt not omit one, the compoſition of which will, doubtleſs, appear as ſingular, as the numerous pro⯑perties aſcribed to it. It is called Ngo-kia, from the city Ngo-hien, in the province of Canton; where there is a natural well, 70 feet deep; and which, as the Chineſe ſay, has a communication with ſome ſubter⯑ranean lake, or other large reſervoir. The water drawn from it, is very clear, and much heavier than common, and, if mixed with muddy water, purifies it, and ren⯑ders it limpid, by precipitating all its impurities to the [286] bottom of the veſſel. This water is employed in making the Ngo-kia, a kind of glue, procured from the ſkin of a black aſs. The animal is killed and flayed, and the ſkin ſteeped for five days in water drawn from this well. After which, it is ſcraped and cleaned, cut into ſmall pieces, and boiled, over a ſlow fire, in the ſame kind of water, till reduced to a jelly, which is then ſtrained, whilſt warm, through a cloth. When this glue is cool, it is formed into ſquare cakes, on which the Chineſe imprint characters, their coats of arms, or the ſigns of their ſhops.

This well is the only one of the kind in China. It is always ſhut, and ſealed by the governor of the place, with his own ſeal, till the cuſtomary day of mak⯑ing the Emperor's glue. The operation continues from the autumnal harveſt till March; during which time, merchants treat for the purchaſe of the glue, with thoſe who guard the well, and with the people who make it.

As this drug is much ſought after, and the quantity made at Ngo-hien, not ſufficient to ſupply the whole empire, there are not wanting perſons who counterfeit it, and make a ſpurious kind, from the ſkins of horſes, mules, camels, and ſometimes even from old boots. A number of virtues are aſcribed to this drug. They aſſure us, that it diſſolves phlegm, facilitates the play [287] and elaſticity of the lungs, removes difficulty of breath⯑ing, comforts the breaſt, increaſes the blood, ſtops dy⯑ſenteries, promotes urine, and ſtrengthens children in the womb.

CHAP. III. Of their Agriculture and Animals.

HAVING ſpoken of the national productions of this country, I cannot more opportunely ſpeak of Chineſe agriculture: their gardening I will defer, till I treat of their houſes.

Several of the Chineſe emperors have thought it worthy their royal care, to promote and teach their ſubjects huſbandry; particularly the Emperor Ven, who held the plough himſelf: and his Empreſs planted mul⯑berry-trees, and bred ſilk-worms in the palace, to ſet their ſubjects a good example. All the cloaths that the Empreſs wore, were of her own making; and a feaſt was inſtituted, and is continued to this day, when the governors of the ſeveral towns and provinces, aſſemble the peaſants about the vernal equinox, and march before them in proceſſion, with garlands, muſic and ſtream⯑ers, and the inſtruments of huſbandry carried before them.

[288]On the 15th day of the firſt moon in every year; which correſponds to the beginning of March, the Tribunal of Ceremonies announces the return of ſpring to the Emperor, by a memorial, pointing out every thing he is to do on this feſtival. He firſt names 12 of the moſt illuſtrious perſons in his court to accompany him, and to hold the plough, after he has performed his part of the ceremony. Among theſe, are always three princes of the blood, and nine preſidents of ſu⯑preme courts. If they are too old, or infirm, for this taſk, proxies are appointed, by the Emperor, to act for them.

This feaſt is preceded by the ſacrifice of a bullock, which the ſovereign offers to the Chang-ti, or Supreme Being, throwing himſelf proſtrate on the earth, or knock⯑ing his head nine times againſt the ground. He, and his ſuite, prepare themſelves for this duty, by three days faſting and continence. Others are appointed on the evening before the ceremony, to go and proſtrate themſelves at the ſepulchre of his anceſtors, and to acquaint them what he is going to do the day fol⯑lowing.

The ſacrifice being performed, and plenty being prayed for, in favour of his people, by the Emperor, under the title of Sovereign Pontiff, in an open place without the city; he lays aſide his royal robes, takes the plough in his hand, to which two oxen are yoked, [289] magnificently cloathed, and turns up ſeveral furrows. Forty labourers are ſelected to yoke theſe oxen, and prepare the ſeeds, which the Emperor afterwards ſows; namely, wheat, rice, millet, and beans. Theſe are brought to the ſpot in ſumptuous boxes, by perſons of the moſt diſtinguiſhed rank. Having plowed two or three furrows, the whole length of the field, the Em⯑peror quits the plough, and the princes do the ſame after him; and, after them, the nine preſidents, the ſame. This done, the Emperor ſows a little of each of the ſeeds above-mentioned; and is followed, alſo, by his ſuite. Four pieces of cotton-cloth, proper for making dreſſes, are then diſtributed to each of the 40 labourers, as preſents; and, an equal quantity, to 40 other perſons, more advanced in years, ſpectators of the ceremony: and the whole concludes, with the moſt active ploughmen preſent, finiſhing what the Em⯑peror began.

Agriculture is the principal, and almoſt the only re⯑ſource of the Chineſe; and they conſider it as the firſt and moſt honourable of all profeſſions, it being that from which ſociety derives the greateſt benefit. The huſbandman, in China, enjoys many great privileges, and ranks before the mechanic, or the merchant; and the magiſtrates, and grandees, are, for the moſt part, the ſons of ſimple huſbandmen, whoſe merit has raiſed them to the firſt dignities of the empire.

[290]The people are permitted to employ part of every crop in brewing beer, and diſtilling ſpirits; but if the harveſt is a bad one, they are prohibited from this, by an order from adminiſtration.

They have an idea that, as the ſtrength, or power of a ſtate, riſes from its wealth, and the wealth of a ſtate ariſes in proportion to its population; the beſt method of augmenting the number of people, is to extend the cultivation to the utmoſt. Philoſophers have reaſoned in the ſame manner, from the ſuperintendence of Pro⯑vidence, and the univerſal obſervation, of Providence keeping up an equilibrium. Turn five or ſix couple of rats into a barn, with a ſcarcity of corn, and they will not breed in the ſame proportion as they would do, if that barn was better ſtocked with grain: Providence never ſending mouths, where there is no meat. So one man and one woman might have 20 children; but, in land where proviſions are not raiſed in an adequate proportion to ſuch an increaſe in the ſpecies, men do not multiply as they otherwiſe would. In Switzerland, and in China, where they cultivate the hills to their tops, the lands ſwarm with inhabitants. In the former, the country is ſo full, that they are enabled to lend out their ſoldiers to other countries; and in China, where there is greater extent of territory, but not more than four times as large as Great-Britain, there are more than 20 times as many inhabitants. The people of England, whether from this way of reaſoning or not, are now [291] incloſing their waſtes, cutting canals, and thus extend⯑ing not only commerce, but cultivation; and there is little doubt, but if they go on in the ſame manner, that in another century, the number of inhabitants will be doubled, and the people then living, from an in⯑creaſe of national wealth, will find themſelves free from any internal debt.—This is a prophecy of mine, which I leave to the world; and which I truſt, on the data here laid down, will be fulfilled.—But to return to the agriculture of the Chineſe.

The country, as I have obſerved, like others, has its plains and its mountains: but all the plains are culti⯑vated; neither hedge nor ditch is to be ſeen, and but few trees; ſo covetous are they of their ground. Pro⯑vinces in the north, and north-weſt, produce bread, corn, barley, millet, tobacco, peas that are always green; black and yellow peas, which they give to horſes inſtead of oats, and ſome rice. Thoſe of the ſouth produce more rice, becauſe the land is low and watry. In provinces where the plains are mingled with mountains, ſome of them muſt needs be barren; but the greateſt part have good ſoil, and they cultivate them to the very edge of the precipices.

It is a delightful proſpect to ſee, in ſome places, plains, to the extent of three or four leagues, ſurrounded with hills and mountains, cut into terraces from the bottom to the top, each terrace riſing one above an⯑other, [292] ſometimes, to the number of 20 or 30; every one being three or four feet high. Theſe mountains are not, in general, rocky, as in Europe; the ſoil being light and porous, and eaſily cut; and ſo deep in ſeveral provinces, that one may dig three or four feet before the rock appears. Where the mountains are rocky, the Chineſe looſen the ſtones, and make little walls of them, to ſupport the terraces; then level the good ſoil, and ſow it with grain.

Huſbandmen divide into plots, that which is of the ſame level; and that which has greater inequalities, is ſeparated into ſtories, in the form of an amphitheatre; and, as the rice will not flouriſh without water, they ſink reſervoirs, at proper diſtances, to catch the rain⯑water deſcending from the mountains; never complain⯑ing of the pains and labour they take, either in conduct⯑ing the water according to its natural bent, from the reſervoirs above to thoſe below; or from the lower ones to the higher, by hydraulic machines that raiſe the water; ſo that the huſbandmen is almoſt certain to reap a harveſt proportionable to his induſtry and his labour; and the traveller receives a deal of pleaſure, in paſſing through theſe delightful fields and vallies, wherein the ſcenes are agreeably diverſified by the different diſpo⯑ſition of the mountains that ſurround them; and finds himſelf, every hour, pleaſantly ſurpriſed by a new land⯑ſcape, that perpetually appears in view, in a conſtant ſucceſſion of verdant amphitheatres, which open to his eye, one after another, in his journey.

[293]The Chineſe have no meadows, national or artificial; and have not the leaſt conception of fallowing; never permitting their lands to lie the ſmalleſt time idle. They would conſider meadows, as lands in a ſtate of nature. All their land, ſuch as an Engliſh farmer would lay down in meadow, they ſow with grain; affirming, that a crop of wheat, or barley, will yield as much ſtraw for the nouriſhment of cattle, as it would have produced hay, beſides the additional grain for the main⯑tenance of man; but of which, in plentiful ſeaſons, they ſpare ſome for the animal creation. Such is the ſyſtem, from one end of the empire to the other, con⯑firmed by the experience of 4,000 years, amongſt a people the moſt attentive to their intereſt, of any nation in the univerſe.

Without meadows, they breed and maintain a great number of horſes, buffaloes, and other animals, neceſ⯑ſary for labour, for ſuſtenance, and manure. Theſe are fed, ſome with ſtraw, others with roots, beans, and grain of every kind. It is true, they have fewer horſes, and horned cattle, in proportion, than we have; yet they do not find it neceſſary to have more.

In their rice countries, the ſoil is ſo light, that they plough with a ſingle buffalo, or heifer. After plough⯑ing, they clean the land from weeds, and, if it is to be ſown with rice, let in the water, and moiſten the earth, till it is quite a pulp, or hotch-potch. The rice is firſt [294] ſowed in little beds, or plots, and, when ſix or eight inches high, tranſplanted into the fields; when the ground is tilled, in rows, as we do our beans. Theſe plantations they continually ſupply with water, till the rice ripens; then, the water being dried up, it is cut and threſhed, often in the field where it grows. Rice has an ear the moſt like bearded barley of any European grain, and grows uſually four feet, ſome⯑times ſix feet high.

In order to make rice grow the better, in places where they ſow it, they bury balls of hog's hair, or any other hair, even human hair; and thoſe whoſe buſineſs it is to ſhave the men, are very careful in ſaving the hair they ſhave off; for they ſell it to the farmers of theſe low countries, at a halfpenny, Engliſh, per pound. It is conveyed in bags, and barks are often loaded with this, and nothing elſe.

For wheat and barley, they grub up the graſs and roots, and having burnt all together with ſtraw, and ſifted the earth fine, they ſow it with ſeed, in drills, as ſome of our farmers do. Rice-land requires no dreſſing. Water is ſufficient: and, for other grain, they uſe aſhes, and all ſorts of dung, even human dung.

The mountains, and vaſt foreſts of China, abound with wild animals of every ſpecies, ſuch as the rhino⯑ceros, elephants, ſerpents, tygers, bears, wolves, foxes, [295] buffaloes, camels, horſes, wild mules, &c. but no lions; ſome beavers, ſables, and ermines, are met with in the northern provinces, but much inferior to thoſe caught in Siberia.

A kind of tyger is ſeen in China, which has a body like a dog, but no tail; he is remarkably ſwift and fero⯑cious. If any one meets this animal, and to eſcape from his fury, climbs up a tree, he immediately ſends forth a loud yell, and ſeveral others join him, who, all together, dig up the earth round the roots of ſuch tree, and over⯑turn it. But the Chineſe have lately found out a me⯑thod of deſtroying them: a certain number of people aſſemble towards evening, and raiſe a circle of ſtrong pales, in which they ſhut themſelves up; then, imi⯑tating the yell of the animal, they draw all thoſe in the neighbourhood round them, and, whilſt theſe fero⯑cious beaſts are digging up the earth, to overturn the palliſade, the men within diſpatch them with their bows and arrows.

Camels are found in the north-eaſt part of China, both wild and domeſtic. They have a ſpecies of camel, no larger than a horſe, with two bunches on his back, having a head like a ſheep, a long neck, and hanging ears; he chews the cud, endures cold without pain, ſheds his hair, and becomes quite naked in ſummer: he can bear a burthen of 3,000 Chineſe pounds in weight, and can travel 50 Engliſh miles a-day. By [296] natural inſtinct, he foreſees an approaching ſtorm, and diſcovers ſprings in the earth. By digging where a camel beats with his foot, one is certain of finding water below; and, when camels flock together with loud cries, and bury their noſes in the ſand, it is a ſure ſign the wind is about to blow; of courſe, they ſeem or⯑dained for travelling the ſandy deſarts. There are others that, from their ſwiftneſs, can travel 200 miles a-day.

China abounds in ſeveral ſpecies of apes, ſome equal in height to a common-ſized man; they walk on their hind legs, and all their actions have a ſimilar confor⯑mity to ours.

But the moſt beautiful quadruped they have, is a ſtag, about the ſize of a common dog, which are bought at a very great price, and kept as curioſities. They have, alſo, ſtags of an enormous ſize, called horſe-ſtags. But their muſk-deer is, of all animals, that which they moſt pride themſelves in, being met with no where elſe. It is here very common, has no horns, and its hair almoſt black. The bag which con⯑tains its muſk, is formed of a very thin membrane, co⯑vered with ſoft hair. The fleſh is ſerved up at the moſt delicate tables. This animal lives on the fleſh of ſerpents; which, though of an enormous ſize, they find no difficulty in killing: for a ſerpent, at a certain diſtance, is immediately overcome by the effluvia of its [297] muſk, and rendered ſenſeleſs and immoveable. The peaſants, convinced of this, when they go into the mountains for coals or wood, take a little of this muſk with them, as the beſt preſervative againſt ſerpents; for, ſhould they lie down to ſleep, no ſerpent can approach them.

In the foreſts of Chineſe Tartary, there are flying foxes, and flying rats, ſimilar to the flying ſquirrels I have deſcribed in Tartary. But a much more extra⯑ordinary rat, called the Fen-chou, is found upon the coaſts of the northern ſea, which is almoſt always fro⯑zen. This animal is formed like a rat, but as large as an elephant. It dwells in obſcure caverns, and care⯑fully ſhuns the light. The ivory it produces, is as white as that of the elephant. Another kind, of a leſs ſize, but as large as a buffalo, burrows in the earth like a mole, flies from the light, and remains almoſt always ſhut up in ſubterranean retreats.—The account I have given of theſe rats, is extracted from a printed col⯑lection of Obſervations, written by the celebrated Em⯑peror Kang-hi.

Chineſe horſes have neither the ſtrength, the beau⯑ty, nor the ſwiftneſs of ours; and the inhabitants have not the art of breaking them in properly. They caſ⯑trate them, to make them gentle; but they are ſo timid, that they will fly at the neighing of a Tartar horſe; [298] beſides, as they are not ſhod, their hoofs are ſoon gone, and they are uſeleſs.

Game is ſo common, that the ſquares, or markets, of Peking, in winter-time, are ſupplied with different heaps of wild fowl, and animals of the chace, frozen ſtiff, and thus perfectly ſecure againſt all putrefaction. Prodigious quantities of deer, elks, ſtags, wild boars, goats, foxes, rabbits, cats, ſquirrels, and wild rats; geeſe, ducks, partridges, pheaſants, and quails, are ſeen there, with ſeveral other kinds of game, not to be met with in Europe.

China has birds of every kind, and every ſpecies, and parrots inferior to none, either in the variety, or beauty of their plumage, or in the facility of learning to talk. But the moſt beautiful bird of China, is the pheaſant, many of which have been brought to Eng⯑land. It is called the Kin-ki, or golden fowl. Its body is proportioned with wonderful elegance, and the bril⯑liancy of its plumage, ſeems to be the utmoſt effort of the pencil of Nature. The ſhades of its wings and tail, are a mixture of bright red and yellow, and a beautiful plume waves over its head. Its fleſh is more delicate than that of our pheaſants.

Their manner of catching water-fowl in China, as well as in India, is very curious. When the fowler ſpies his game, he wades into the water, as high as his [299] chin, covering his head with a pot full of holes, to give him air and ſight. This pot is covered over with fea⯑thers, to deceive the game; ſo that, when he draws near them, by either ſwimming or walking, they are not in the leaſt frightened. The fowler then lays hold of them by the feet, draws them down under water, and the reſt of the fowls thinking their companions have only dived, are not in the leaſt diſturbed, but keep ſwimming about the place, till moſt of them are taken in the ſame manner.

The butterflies found in the province of Canton, are ſo much prized as to be ſent to court. They are larger than any European ones, and their wings much broader. They begin to flutter about in the evening, like bats; and ſeem nearly as large, in the extent of their wings. Their colours are wonderfully variegated, and have an extraordinary brilliancy.

As to inſects; they have, at times, ſuch ſwarms of locuſts, as to become a plague, and deſtroy the fruits of the earth. One ſees, ſays a Chineſe author, ſuch prodigious multitudes of them, that they darken the ſky, and are ſo cloſe, that their wings ſeem to touch each other. Their numbers are ſo great, that, on lift⯑ing up your eyes, you would imagine you ſaw, over your head, high, green mountains; and the noiſe they make, in flying, is like the beating of a drum.

[300]The ſame author obſerves, that this incredible quan⯑tity of locuſts never appears, but when great floods are followed by a very dry year; it being his opinion, that the ſpawn of fiſh left on the ground, and afterwards hatched by the heat of the ſun, produces this vaſt mul⯑titude of inſects, which, in a ſhort time, deſtroys the hopes of a plentiful crop.

With reſpect to fiſh, they have the greater part of ſuch as have been ſeen in Europe. But they have one, which they call Tcho-kio-yu, or the fiſh in armour; be⯑cauſe, its body is defended by ſharp ſcales, ranged in ſtraight lines, and laid one over the other, like tiles on a roof. Its fleſh is white, and taſtes like veal; and it generally weighs 40 pounds. The gold and ſilver fiſh we have in England, are originally from China.

The miſſionaries ſpeak of another fiſh, the figure of which is as ſingular, as it is frightful and diſguſting. It is called Hai ſeng, and generally makes a diſh at every entertainment. It is uſually ſeen floating, and looks like a ſhapeleſs lump of inanimate matter; it has neither mouth nor bones, and dies on being preſſed: but the moſt ſingular of all Chineſe fiſhes, is the Pimou-yu. This appears to be but half a fiſh, being flat, like the ſole of a ſhoe, having but one eye, and one of its ſides without any ſcales, or fins. This fiſh cannot ſwim, but when it unites itſelf to a companion; and the two fiſhes, joined, appear to be but one.

[301]They have, alſo, a ſalt-water fiſh, with a round head, and its mouth like the beak of a falcon. It has eight legs round its head, but has neither ſcales, tail, nor bone. Monkden, in his Geography, ſays, it has two tufts of a beard, which reſemble two bunches of cord; and that, during a ſtorm, or when the waves of the ſea are too much agitated, it extends this beard, uſing it as cords to attach itſelf to the bottom of the ſea, or to the rocks. The name Niomeré, which the Mantchew Tartars give it, implies, a moored bark.

Great numbers of whales are met with here, every year, towards the north-eaſt, on the coaſts of Korea; and, in many of their bodies, are found darts and har⯑poons, of the French and Dutch, from whom they have eſcaped in the northern extremities of Europe; which ſeems to indicate the exiſtence of a paſſage from thence into thoſe ſeas, to the north of America.

The Chineſe, fertile in contrivance, have two me⯑thods of fiſhing, which are curious. The one is prac⯑tiſed in the night, by moon-ſhine. They take two long, ſtraight boats, and nail a board, about two feet broad, painted white, and varniſhed on the ſides, from one end of each boat to the other: this plank ſlopes outwards, and almoſt touches the ſurface of the water. In order to catch fiſh, they turn the face of this plank towards the moon, that its reflection may add to the brightneſs of the board; when the fiſh playing, and miſtaking the [302] colour of the board for that of the water, leap up to it, and often fall upon it, or into the boat; ſo that fiſhermen almoſt, without pains, fill a ſmall bark with fiſh, in a very little time.

The other method is more ſurpriſing. As Europeans, and others, train up hawks to fly at game, and catch birds, the Chineſe train up cormorants to catch fiſh. One fiſherman can eaſily look after a hundred of theſe birds. He keeps them perched on the ſides of his boat, waiting patiently for orders, till they reach the place where he means to fiſh; and then, at the firſt ſignal, each takes its flight, and flies the way aſſigned it. It is pleaſant to ſee them divide among them, the whole breadth of the river, or the lake. They ſeek up and down, ſwim, dive, come up again, and hover over the water, till they perceive their prey; when they in⯑ſtantly dart upon it, ſeize it with their beak, and bring it to their maſter. When the fiſh is too big, they help one another; one taking it by the tail, and another by the head, and ſo carry it to the boat, where the men hold out long oars, or ſtrong canes, for them to perch on; nor will they quit the fiſh, till they are ſent in ſearch of others, which they will repeat 100 times. When they are weary, the fiſhermen ſuffer them to reſt, but give them nothing to eat till the fiſhing is over; during which employ, the throat of each cor⯑morant is tied with a ſmall cord, leſt they ſhould [303] ſwallow the ſmall fiſh, and prevent their having any inclination to return. But when the fiſhing is over, they untie the cord, and let them fill their bellies.

In the province of Quang-tong, a prodigious num⯑ber of tame ducks are raiſed, by hatching their eggs in ovens, and dung-hills; but it does not appear that they derived this cuſtom from Egypt. They load a great number of ſmall barks with them, and carry them, in flocks, to feed on the ſea-ſhore, where, at low water, theſe birds find ſhrimps, oyſters, and other kinds of ſhell-fiſh. Theſe ſmall fleets generally ſail in company, and the ducks ſoon mix together on the ſhore; but, when night approaches, they are collected toge⯑ther, by only beating on a baſon, as ſwarms of bees are collected. At this noiſe, they immediately form themſelves into different flocks, and each returns to the veſſel it belongs to.

Such flocks of ducks are thus rendered uſeful on the rice-grounds; and the maſter of a flock, like the owner of a ſtock of ſheep in England, ſhall be paid for the ſervice they do to the land. At certain periods in the growth of rice, it is neceſſary to clear the ground of vermin. The maſter of ſuch a flock of ducks is ap⯑plied to, and he will conduct his whole flock into the rice-ground he is employed to clear; where they will, in a few hours, devour all the frogs and inſects as would [304] injure the crop; and he then, by a call, or whiſtle, takes them back to his boat. Such boats as are em⯑ployed for this purpoſe, are flat-bottomed, and have three or four apartments, above each other; on the uppermoſt, the ducks hatch their eggs; on the lower, they ſit with their brood. The drake, at the call of a whiſtle, drives the young ones into the water, and goes before them, to ſhew them the way. A piece of board is faſtened to the ſide, which ſerves as a bridge for the ducklings to go out and in by; and the old ducks are ſo well trained, that, on the maſter of the boat wind⯑ing a whiſtle, the whole flock will follow him. On their return from the grounds, the old ducks divide into two parts; one guards the ſide, leſt any ſtrange duck ſhould enter with their own tribe; the other guards the rear, to ſee that none is left behind: and, when all are embarked, the old guardians enter, and take their proper poſts.

CHAP. IV. Of the People, Cities, Towns and Gardens, of China.

CHINA abounds in great cities; a traveller no ſooner has left one, but he enters another; there are reckoned to be 4402 that are walled in, which are divided into three claſſes, as to ſize; of the firſt are 160, many of which are three or four leagues in circumference. In the provinces of Xen-ſi, and Xang-ſi, their villages are ſurrounded with walls and ditches, and have iron-gates which are ſhut every night, and guarded in the day-time by the country people, as well againſt the inſults of the ſoldiers, as the depredations of robbers.

The cities are divided into two claſſes, civil and mili⯑tary: the firſt contains 2045, the reſt 2357, and theſe are ſub-divided into claſſes, according to their ſize. Sol⯑diers are quartered in ſome of the military ones, and a certain quantity of land aſſigned them in the neighbour⯑hood for their ſupport. The frontiers, and ſea-coaſts, are defended by 439 caſtles, well fortified, and kept in order. Along the ſame coaſts are 2920 towns, many of which are equal in extent, and population, to ſeveral of the walled cities; and as to the towns and villages, in the interior part of the country, they are almoſt innu⯑merable, and the greater part of them are rich, commer⯑cial and populous.

[306]The public inſtitutions correſpond with the extent of the empire. There are 1145 royal lodging-places for the uſe of the mandarines, governors of provinces, officers of the court, and couriers that travel at the ex⯑pence of the crown. The towers, triumphial arches, and other monuments erected in honour of good kings, or illuſtrious heroes, are in number 1159. The virtues of women being equally here renowned as thoſe of men, 208 monuments are to be ſeen conſecrated to the memo⯑ry of as many females, who by their modeſty, virtue, and attention to the duties of their ſex, have merited the eſteem and veneration of their fellow-citizens. Two hundred and twenty celebrated libraries are conſtantly open to the literati, and men of genius; and the ſchools, or colleges, eſtabliſhed by Confucius and others, founded in honour of him, are multiplied as much as cities and towns.

Every principal city has a palace for the viceroy, go⯑vernor, or mandarin; a public lodging place, or inn, for thoſe who travel on the king's account; and every metropo⯑lis has a ſtately, high tower, nine ſtories high, and another of ſeven, erected chiefly for ornament; being to be ſeen at a great diſtance, and from their tops, affording an ex⯑tenſive proſpect of the adjacent country. Du Halde mentions ſome of theſe, 12 or 13 ſtories high, every one leſſening the over other, with ſurpriſing ſymmetry, and all adorned with fine painting, carving, gilding, and alſo, with bells round the top of the upper ſtory, hung by a chain ſo long, that the leaſt wind ſets them a tinkling, [307] the muſick of which when it blows hard is uncouth, yet not diſagreeable. Theſe towers are ſimilar to the por⯑celain towers at Nanking, a model of which is erected in Kew-gardens near London.

The cities are generally ſquare, or an oblong ſquare, with great, high walls, towers, &c. and one or more ſtately gate at each front; two great ſtreets which croſs one another in the middle of the town, divided in four quarters, and the gates ſtand due eaſt and weſt; the other ſtreets run in a direct line, from one to its oppoſite and are interſected with lanes, running parallel to each other, and adorned with ſpacious piazzas, temples, and other public buildings. Other cities are perfectly round, others oval, but within, of the ſame uniform ſymmetry; the far greateſt part of them are well ſupplied with water from rivers, or artificial canals, which run through them, branching into the principal parts of the town, and fur⯑niſhing fountains, caſcades, &c. in ſtreets, houſes, gar⯑dens, &c.

The buildings they beſtow moſt on, and are whimſi⯑cally extravagant in, are their temples, which they rear to a conſiderable height, adorned with every thing curious, and filled with an incredible number of idols, before which hang lamps continually burning: they reckon about 480 of theſe temples, of the firſt rank, beſides a prodigious number of others, which are ſerved in the whole with 350,000 bonzas, or prieſts. Of bridges there [308] are a vaſt; number one of the moſt celebrated, is that over the river Saffrang, which joins two mountains toge⯑ther, and is 400 cubits long, and 500 high, and all of one ſingle arch, whence travellers call it the flying bridge There is another at the city of Chang-chew, at the place where the two great rivers of Kiang and Kan meet. This is built upon 130 barges, chained to one another, yet, ſo as to open a way in any part of it, to let veſſels paſs. There are many ſuch bridges over the country. A third ſort is built on pillars without any arch, ſome of conſiderable length and breadth, particularly that in the province of Fo-kien, which ſtands on 300 pillars, and is 660 perches long, and one and a half broad, curiouſly built, and adorned with parapets, and great variety of ſculpture and imagery. Others are built with arches as with us, but of great length, breadth, and beauty: that at Oxu the capital of Fo-kien, conſiſts of 100 arches, and above 150 fathoms in length.

Their triumphal arches conſiſt of three great arches, made of marble, the middle arch higher then the other two, ſupported by four columns, ſometimes round, but oftener ſquare, of one ſingle ſtone; the frieze is adorned with inſcriptions, beautiful figures, and ſculpture, with knots and flowers finely carved, and birds flying as it were from the ſtone. Le Comte conſiders theſe as their maſter-pieces in architecture.

Having deſcribed the cities in general, I will give my readers a deſcription of the three principal ones, Peking, [309] Nanking, and Canton, which will enable him to form a good idea of the reſt.

Peking is the metropolis of the empire, and where the court is held; it is ſituated in about the fortieth degree of north latitude in a very fertile plain, 20 leagues from the great wall.

Amiot, who was at Peking, in 1777, ſpeaks thus of the climate. "From many experiments that I made, I am convinced that the water, air, and earth, for the ſpace of ſeven, or eight, leagues round, equally abound with nitre. In this year there was a longer continuance of hot wea⯑ther, then was generally obſerved before. In the months of June and July, Reaumur's thermometer, continually roſe from the 26th, to the 33d degree above Zero; and on the third of July, the thermometer roſe at three in the afternoon, to 34 degrees. Ice, at this time of the year, when firſt taken from the ice-houſe, diſſolves with diffi⯑culty, and is tranſported from place to place, during the greateſt heats of ſummer, in open wheel-barrows, with as little precaution as if it were flints or bricks, and leaves no other traces behind on the ſand, then a few drops that fall here and there, which convinces me, that the ice be⯑ing ſo long in diſſolving, is owing to its being impregnated with ſo great a number of nitrous particles; which pre⯑ſerves it along time in a ſtate of congelation. A number of people at this, and other ſeaſons, are employed by the Emperor to give freſh water, gratis, to all who aſk for it.

[310]Every kind of water at Peking, whether taken from ſprings or rivers, has a very ſingular quality; it leaves a kind of tartar in thoſe veſſels in which it has been kept, and in thoſe in which it has been boiled. That the air at Peking, is impregnated with nitre, appears from the fol⯑lowing reaſons. 1. Notwithſtanding the variety of unwhole⯑ſome food which the people eat, and all the filth, and in⯑convenience reſulting from low, damp, and confined lodg⯑ings, the plague never makes its appearance in the pro⯑vince of Petcheli, and the people are ſeldom attacked by any of thoſe epidemical diſorders, ſo common in Europe. 2. Proviſions may be kept a long time at Peking without being ſubject to putrefaction. Raiſins are eaten there freſh 'till May; apples and pears 'till Midſummer; wild-boars, ſtags, deer, roebucks, rabbits, hares, pheaſants, ducks, geeſe, and all kind of game, brought from Tartary to Peking, in the winter, will keep without ſalt for two or three months, tho' they are expoſed every day in the markets, and carried about from their houſes to the mar⯑ket and back, 'till they are ſold; nay, this may be done 'till the end of March. 3. Whole fields in the neighbour⯑ing of Peking, may be ſeen covered with a nitrous ſalt, every morning at ſun-riſe. 4. The earth is frozen in winter, to the depth of two or three feet, and does not be⯑come ſoft before the end of March. This is the reaſon, that the froſt will kill plants at Peking, which Linnaeus raiſed in Sweden, tho' 20 degrees further to the north.

The height, and enormous thickneſs of the walls of the old Tartar city, excite admiration; they hide the whole town by their height, and are ſo thick, that 12 horſemen may readily ride on them abreaſt. They have ſpacious, ſquare towers raiſed on them, about a bow-ſhot diſtant from each other, and large enough to contain bodies of reſerve, in caſe of neceſſity.

The city has four gates, lofty and well arched, that at a diſtance make a great ſhew. Over them are large pa⯑vilion-roofed [312] towers, divided into nine ſtories, each ha⯑ving ſeveral port holes. The lower ſtory forms a large hall for the uſe of the ſoldiers, and others who quit guard and thoſe appointed to relieve them, and before each gate is a ſpace of more than 360 feet, large enough for 500 men to be drawn up; a kind of redoubt ſur⯑rounded by a ſemi-circular wall, equal in thickneſs and height, to the city-walls. The arches, or gate-ways, are built of marble, but the reſt of the walls of brick. The great road which ends here, is commanded by a pa⯑vilion-roofed tower, like the gates, ſo that as the can⯑non of the former can batter the houſes of the city, thoſe of the latter can ſweep the adjacent country. The Chineſe city is, alſo, walled round, and has ſeven gates, and a large ſuburb at every gate.

The ſtreets of Peking, are ſtraight, and a league in length, the principal of them, 120 feet wide, and bor⯑dered with ſhops. Thoſe in which they ſell ſilks and china-ware, generally take up the whole ſtreet, and make a very pleaſing appearance, and that which renders it more ſo, is the cuſtom tradeſmen have, of fixing up a long board in front of their ſhops, about 20 feet high, painted and gilt, on which are written the names of the goods they ſell. Theſe being placed on each ſide of the ſtreet, almoſt at equal diſtances, in moſt of the cities in China, and having pendants, and ſtreamers on the top, make a very agreeable ſhew. They have no ſigns, but the name of every tradeſman, is written in large letters over [313] his door. Was it not for this, the ſtreets would look mean, notwithſtanding their length and breadth, the houſes being ſo low and mean in front.

All the great ſtreets are drawn by a line from one gate to another, and have ſeveral corps de garde. Night and day, the ſoldiers with their ſwords, by their ſides, and whips in their hands, are ready to correct thoſe who make any diſturbance, and they are authoriſed to take into cuſtody ſuch as reſiſt, or create any quarrels.

The little ſtreets that open into the greater, have lat⯑tice-gates at the end, which does not prevent ſeeing all that paſs along, and theſe are guarded alſo. The lattice-gates are ſhut at night, and are ſeldom opened but to per⯑ſons known, who carry a lanthorn in their hand, and who give a good reaſon for coming out, ſuch as fetching a phyſician, &c. In all Chineſe cities, there are very large bells; at Peking, there are ſeven, one, according to Magail⯑lans, weighs 120,000 lb. is 13½ feet in diameter, and 42 round, and 12½ high, beſides the ear which is three feet more. Tho' they exceed ours in ſize, they are inferior in ſound, having wooden clappers on the outſide, in form of mallets, that make but a dull noiſe. Theſe bells are almoſt in form of a cylinder, near as wide at top as at bottom; but their thickneſs leſſens gradually from the bottom to the top; the metal is brittle, ill caſt, and full of knots; but its ſound which is prodigiouſly loud, and ſtrong, has a moſt awful effect in the night, by its rever⯑berating [314] round the walls, and by the echo of the ſurround⯑ing country; one of theſe bells is admired for the beau⯑tiful characters with which it is covered, being as neat, and perfect, as if traced out by the fineſt writer, or formed of wax, by a ſtamp. Rougement tells us, that two of theſe bells were raiſed to the top of a tower, 130 French feet high by 200 men, only, under the direction of Verbieſt, a miſſionary, to the great aſtoniſhment of the Chineſe, who imagined it would require ſeveral thouſand men, and that two years afterwards he raiſed another, with only 120 young men. By a ſtroke on theſe bells the five watches of the night are diſtinguiſhed; on the commencement of the firſt, they give one ſtroke, which is repeated every minute, for two hours, 'till the ſecond watch; they then give two ſtrokes, repeating them at certain intervals, 'till the third watch, and ſo on, increaſing the number of ſtrokes, according to the watch. The bells are hung in towers built for that pupoſe, and begin to ſound at ſeven, or eight in the evening. They make uſe of enormous drums for the ſame purpoſe, 40 feet in circumference.

As ſoon as the firſt ſtroke is given by the watch, on the bells, a ſoldier, or two, comes and goes from one corps de garde, to the other, and as they paſs, they play continu⯑ally on a ſort of rattle. They do not ſuffer any perſon to go about at night, and examine even thoſe who are ſent on the Emperor's buſineſs; if their anſwers are equivocal, they take them to the guard-houſe, where the perſon commanding muſt anſwer every call of the centinel on [315] duty. By this beautiful order, which is obſerved with the greateſt ſtrictneſs, peace, ſilence and ſafety, reigns through⯑out the city. The governor is obliged to walk round the towers, and often comes when he is leaſt expected; and the officers on guard at the walls, and at the gates, where they beat the watches on great drums of braſs, ſend ſubalterns to examine their reſpective quarters; the leaſt neglect is puniſhed the next day, and the officer broken.

This exact diſcipline, which prevents all nocturnal aſſemblies, will no doubt appear very extraordinary with us, and will not pleaſe our perſons of faſhion; but is it not the duty of the chief perſons of a ſtate, to prefer good or⯑der, and public ſafety, to diverſions and amuſement, which give riſe to a variety of attempts againſt the property and lives of the inhabitants? Nothing appears more agreeable to reaſon, ſince the Tartars, a people without learning, lately come from the midſt of woods, and foreſts, not en⯑lightened by chriſtianity, are governed by theſe principles, and by this prudent vigilance cut off the root of the many crimes, which are but too common in ſtates, not ſo well regulated.

This regulation is expenſive to the ſtate, for part of the ſoldiers are kept entirely to take care of the ſtreets; they are called infantry, and their pay is large; beſides their watching, night and day, it is their duty to ſee that every perſon cleans before his own houſe, that the ſtreets are ſwept every day, and watered night and morning in dry [316] weather, and the dirt taken away after rain: and as the ſtreets are wide, it is their duty, alſo, to keep the middle of the ſtreet clean themſelves, for the covenience of paſ⯑ſengers. As the town is not paved, when the dirt is re⯑moved, they level it, or dry it, after it has been turned and mixed with other earth; ſo that two hours after rain, every one may walk clean in all parts.

But if the ſtreets are kept ſo quiet at night, there is noiſe enough in the day; it is aſtoniſhing to ſee the im⯑menſe concourſe of people that fill them, and the con⯑fuſion cauſed by the prodigious number of horſes, mules, aſſes, camels, carts, waggons, and chairs, which croſs and meet each other, without reckoning the crowds of one or two hundred men, in different parts of the ſtreets, liſtening to fortune-tellers, jugglers, maſters of infinite dexterity, ballad-ſingers, and a thouſand mountebanks, and buffoons, who read and relate ſtories to promote laughter, and diſtribute medicines, the wonderful effects of which they diſplay with all the eloquence peculiar to them,—I ſay crowds of men, for not a woman is ſeen in the ſtreets.

As all the riches, and merchandize, of the empire are continually pouring into this city; the number of ſtrangers that reſort here, is immenſe. They are carried in chairs, or ride on horſeback, chiefly the latter; but they are al⯑ways attended by a guide acquainted with the ſtreets, and who knows the houſes of the nobility, and principal peo⯑ple; [317] they are alſo, provided with a book containing an account of the different quarters, ſquares, remarkable places, and reſidence of public officers. In ſummer-time, temporary ſhops are built in the ſtreets which add to the confuſion, where perſons are ſerved with ice-water; and every where we find eating-houſes, and places of refreſh⯑ment for tea, and fruits: hackney horſes, and chairs, are always at hand, for there are no coaches, and for 12, or 15 pence a horſe, or mule, may be hired for the whole day. From the continual croud in the ſtreets, the owner of ſuch horſe, leads his beaſt by the bridle, to make way.

Added to all this, people of diſtinction oblige all their dependants to follow them. A mandarin of the firſt rank, is always accompanied in his walks by his whole tribunal, and to augment his equipages, each of the inferior man⯑darins in his ſuite, is generally attended by ſeveral do⯑meſtics. The nobility of the court, and princes of the blood, never appear in public without being ſurrounded by a large body of cavalry, and as their attendance is re⯑quired at the palace every day, their train alone is ſuffi⯑cient to crowd the city, and create confuſion. It is very ſingular as I have obſerved, that in all this prodigious concourſe no women are ever ſeen; hence we may judge of the population of China, as the number of females here, as well as every where elſe, is greater than that of the other ſex.

[318]Another addition to the general crowd, is that but few artificers, ſuch as ſmiths, taylors, carpenters, &c. work but in the houſes of their employers, and of courſe are all day about the ſtreets ſeeking for employment. Mul⯑titudes of country people reſort here daily to market, and no river coming up cloſe to the city, all manner of goods are brought to Peking, by land-carriage, which fills the ſtreets with waggons, beaſts of burden, and their drivers, inſomuch, that, morning and evening, the gates are ſo thronged, that a man may wait ſome hours before he can go by; and yet in all this buſtle, very few accidents hap⯑pen; the police is ſo judicious, as to keep all quiet. The city is divided into four quarters and theſe four into leſſer divſions; every ten houſes has an officer like our conſtable, who preſides over the other nine, and informs the magiſ⯑rate if any thing happens. And, the governor of Peking, has juriſdiction not only over the ſoldiers, but over all the citizens, and every thing that relates to the civil govern⯑ment, and the public ſecurity. If any robbery is com⯑mitted in the night, the neighbourhood is obliged to make it good, and in every family the maſter is account⯑able for his children, and his ſervants. The ſtreets are patrolled at night by the foot-guards, and the horſe go their rounds upon the walls.

An immenſe number of barbers are perpetually walk⯑ing the ſtreets, with a kind of little bell, to give notice of their approach, to ſuch as want their ſervice. They carry on their ſhoulders, a ſtool, a baſon, a kettle and [319] fire, with a towel and comb-caſe, and will, when called, ſhave the head in an inſtant, either in the ſtreet, porch, or the middle of a ſquare. Theſe men ſhave, ſet the eye⯑brows in order, clean the ears with proper inſtruments, ſtretch out the arms, rub the ſhoulders, and do all this for the value of three farthings Engliſh, which they re⯑ceive very gratefully, and then ring their bell for other cuſtomers.

In ſhort, there is ſcarce any invention to which the Chineſe have not recourſe, to find means of ſubſiſtence, for as there is not a ſpot in the empire that lies untilled, ſo there is not a perſon, man or woman, tho' never ſo old, deaf or blind, but what may gain a livelihood. A great many families in Peking, gain a living by ſelling matches, others have no other buſineſs, but picking up, in the ſtreets, little rags of ſilk, woollen, cotton or linen, and the feathers of fowls, bones of dogs, and bits of paper, which they waſh and ſell again.

Strict watch is kept in the day-time here, and in every city, to obſerve thoſe who enter; for this purpoſe, a ſtrong guard is placed at every gate. The air, the looks, &c. of all paſſengers are carefully examined, and if their appearance is doubtful, they are carried before a mandarin. This is to prevent the entry of foreigners amongſt them, for being bigotted to their ancient uſages; they ſuppoſe that by the admiſſion of foreigners, an alteration of man⯑ners, cuſtoms, and ceremonies, might in proceſs of time, [320] reſult from ſuch an intercourſe, and give birth to quar⯑rels, party-diſputes, and ſedition, and at laſt, end in an overthrow of the conſtitution.

None but military people are permitted to wear arms▪ in public, and theſe only, in time of war, guard, or review, of courſe little miſchief is done, by occaſional quarrels. If two men quarrelling, have ſticks in their hands, they will lay them aſide, and fight the matter out with their fiſts; but they oftener go before a mandarin and beg him to ſettle it. He hears the caſe with great gravity, and according to the merits of it, orders the aggreſſor, or both of them, to receive a ſound baſtinadoing. Proſtitutes are not ſuffered to remain within the walls of any city; but they may reſide in the ſuburbs, provided they do not keep a houſe of their own. Certain perſons are au⯑thoriſed to lodge them, but thoſe perſons muſt watch their conduct, and is reſponſible and puniſhable for any noiſe or quarrel in his houſe.

Every city of China, and ſometimes, even an ordinary town, enjoys the advantages of an eſtabliſhment lately introduced into Paris. This is an office called Tong-pou, where money may be borrowed upon pledges. No pre⯑liminaries are neceſſary, the tranſaction is an inviolable ſecret, and the borrower may remain unknown. Thoſe who belong to the office, take only a deſcription of the borrower, or his perſon, ſo as to be able to give an ac⯑count of what they do to the Police. If he borrows a [321] ſum ſeemingly too large for his ſituation in life, theſe office-keepers will ſet a perſon to follow him home. But, unleſs connivance is proved, the office never ſuſtains a loſs. The uſual intereſt of money is 30 per cent.; and, at this rate, money may be borrowed of the Tong-pou.

However induſtrious and temperate theſe people are, the prodigious number of inhabitants in populous cities, occaſions a great deal of miſery. Some of the cities are ſo poor, that they cannot ſupply their inhabitants with the common neceſſaries of life; for which reaſon, they expoſe their children often in the ſtreets, eſpecially when mothers fall ſick, or want milk to ſuckle them. Thus are theſe little innocents, in ſome ſenſe, condemned to death, as ſoon as they begin to live. This is common in great cities, ſuch as Canton and Peking; but, in other places, ſuch inſtances are few; and government ſo far winks at it, as to employ as much vigilance in carrying them away in the morning, as it beſtows on their educa⯑tion, which encourages the practice. This has inclined the miſſionaries, in populous places, to educate ſeveral catechiſts, who divide the whole city, and walk out every morning to baptiſe a multitude of dying children; and have prevailed on many of the infidel-midwives to permit chriſtian women to follow them to the houſes they are called to; for it ſometimes happens, that a Chineſe, not being in a condition to bring up a large family, ſhall engage the midwife, to ſtifle a female infant in a baſon of water, [322] as ſoon as born; on which occaſions, theſe chriſtian midwives take care to baptize them firſt. Poor families will alſo, when their infants die, lay them in the roads and ſtreets, or throw them in the river, to ſave the expence of burying them. It is the ſame miſery that produces a vaſt number of ſlaves, or rather perſons who ſell themſelves to their employers. A man will ſometimes ſell his ſon, and ſometimes himſelf and wife, at a very moderate price; but, if he can, he is contented to ſell his chil⯑dren only.

The Emperor's palace ſtands in the middle of the Tar⯑tar city, is an oblong ſquare, two miles in length, and one in breadth, and an aſſemblage of vaſt buildings, ex⯑tenſive courts, and magnificent gardens, ſhup up, on all ſides, by a double wall: the ſpace between the two walls, occupied by houſes belonging to the officers of the court, eunuchs, and different tribunals, ſome of whom have the care of providing neceſſaries for the Emperor's uſe, and ſome for determining diſputes, and puniſhing faults committed by the domeſtics of the palace.

Within the inner wall are nine, vaſt courts, and the arched ways through which one enters them, are erected with marble, and have each a large, ſquare, Gothic build⯑ing over them. The offices on each ſide the courts are but mean. The Emperor's apartment, which is at the end of the furtheſt court, is built on a ſquare platform raiſed with earth, and caſed with marble, and conſiſts, like all other [323] Chineſe houſes, of one ſtory, the roof of which is ſupport⯑ed by large, marble columns, and covered with glazed, yellow tiles, that glitter in the ſun, like gold. The white marble ſteps, by which theſe ſtate-rooms are aſcended, the carved-work, varniſh, painting, and gilding, with which they are adorned, give them a very magnificent ap⯑pearance, and ſuitable to the grandeur of that monarch to whom they belong; but ſtill as Le Comte obſerves, there is not that contrivance and uniformity, in which the beauty of our buildings conſiſts, and of courſe, the irregularity of the whole muſt offend the eye of any one ſkilled in archi⯑tecture.

The inner palace-court, at the end of which this plat⯑form is raiſed, is, 350 feet in length, and 50 broad; an immenſe gallery runs round it, in which are magazines, containing rich effects, the Emperor's private property; for the public treaſury is entruſted to a ſovereign tribunal. One of theſe magazines is filled with plate; another, with rich furs; a third, with dreſſes lined with valuable furs, which the Emperor ſometimes gives, in preſents to his of⯑ficers. A fourth, is a depoſitory of jewels, pieces of curious marble, and pearls, fiſhed up in Tartary; a fifth is full of wardrobes, and trunks of ſilk ſtuffs uſed by the Emperor, and his family, and the reſt are filled with bows and ar⯑rows, and other armour, taken from the enemy, or pre⯑ſented by princes.

[324]The platform, on which the Emperor's apartments are built is 15 feet high, with a baluſtrade [...]ound it of white marble, and the apartments, being in the center, leave a broad terrace paved with marble round them.

The hall of audience is in the middle front of theſe apart⯑ments, 130 feet ſquare, the cieling is carved-work, japan⯑ned green, and charged with gilded dragons, the pillars within that ſupport the roof, are ſeven feet in circumfe⯑rence at bottom, encruſted with a kind of paſte, and japan⯑ned with red; the pavement-floor is covered with an ordi⯑nary carpet imitating the Turkey, and the walls are whited, but deſtitute of ornament.

The throne ſtands in the middle of this hall, and conſiſts of a lofty alcove, very neat, but not magnificent, with the word Ching painted over it, which implies Holy, in Latin, Eximius, or in Engliſh, "wiſeſt, or moſt perfect," On the terrace before the hall, are placed great and maſſy veſſels of braſs, in which perfumes are burnt during the time of audience, and candleſticks made in the ſhape of birds, large enough to hold wax flambeaus, which at this time are lighted. The private apartments I can give no account of, ſtrangers not being permitted to ſee them, nor any of the natives, but women, and eunuchs: in the gardens of the palace are two great ſheets of water, with a marble bridge thrown over them.

[325]The palaces of the royal family are very neat within, extremely capacious, and built at great expence, but in a ſimilar form with the Emperor's; a row of courts, adorned with buildings on the ſides, and in front, at the end of the inner court, a hall japanned, and raiſed on a platform, three or four feet high, railed round, caſed with great blocks of hewn ſtone, and paved with large, ſquare tiles. The tribunals of the ſovereign juridictions, are alſo, of vaſt extent, but ill built and worſe repaired, and no ways adequate to the greatneſs of the empire.

The ſeraglio in the court of Peking, contains a col⯑lection of the moſt beautiful virgins in the empire. Theſe the vice-roys, and governors of the ſeveral provinces, make the Emperor preſents of, who indeed uſes them no better than ſlaves, for they are ſo numerous, that many of them are ſcarcely known to him.

The houſes of Peking, and even the palaces of the principal mandarins, are built on the ſurface of the ground, ſupported with wooden pillars, without any foun⯑dation. They are but one ſtory high (except in mer⯑chants houſes, where they have a ſecond, as a warehouſe), and, of courſe, take up a great extent of ground, having ſeveral, open courts within their walls. The people have ſuch a regard to privacy, that no windows are made towards the ſtreet, or to look towards their neighbours; and juſt within their great gate, or portal, ſtands a wall, or ſcreen, to prevent ſtrangers looking in, when the gate is [326] opened. When you have paſſed this ſcreen, there are little allies, right and left, by which you paſs into the ſe⯑veral courts, with buildings round them.

Their rooms are very plain, nothing being ſtudied but uſefulneſs. Thoſe that are opulent, add ornaments of Japan-work, ſculpture, and gilding. The greateſt part of the houſes in cities are covered with tiles; all the roofs of the rooms are ſupported by pillars, 10 feet high, on ſtone baſes, and beams from one to another; and, the magni⯑ficence of them, conſiſts in the thickneſs of the beams and pillars, the excellency of the timber, and the carving on the gates. They have no other ſtairs than what are before the door, which are a few ſteps from the ground; but, along the ſide of the houſe, is a cloſe gallery, ſix or ſeven feet wide, and caſed with beautiful free-ſtone.

Common houſes are built with unburnt brick. In ſome places, they are made with tempered earth; and, in others, the walls are made with hurdles, covered with lime and earth: but thoſe of the gentry, are made of poliſhed bricks, very curiouſly carved. In country-towns, the houſes are chiefly of earth, very low, and the roofs almoſt flat, compoſed of reeds covered with earth.

Their entertainments are made in a ſort of hall, or ban⯑queting-houſe, at the entrance of their houſes, and have no other ornament, than a ſingle order of columns, painted and varniſhed, to ſupport the roof; and the roofs are often [327] open to the tiles, without a cieling. Round this hall are ſeveral places, partitioned off, with a table and benches, to hold four perſons in each, like our coffee-houſes in London; for, let the company be ever ſo numerous, not more than four at any time dine at one table, and often but one perſon. The furniture of this hall is merely benches and tables, and ſome large lanthorns, made of painted ſilk, ſuſpended from the roof. Their rooms have no looking-glaſſes, hangings, or fine chairs; and their beds, which are one of their principal ornaments, are ſcarce ever ſeen by ſtrangers. Thoſe of the rich, in winter, have curtains of double ſatin; and, in ſummer, of white taf⯑fety, painted with flowers, birds, and trees, the poſts gilt, painted and carved, with worked, ſatin coverlids. The beds of the common people are made of plain linen, and plain mattraſſes, ſtuffed with cotton; and, in the northern pro⯑vinces, the poor ſleep on benches, built up with bricks, and kept warm by ſtoves on the outſide, like our hot-walls. On theſe they ſleep, ſome on the bare bricks, ſome on mattraſſes; and, in the day-time, here they ſit and work, and dreſs their food, having little or no furniture.

They always ſleep bare-headed; and, tho' their heads are ſhaven, they have but little covering. Their apart⯑ments are damp, being on the ground-floor, and generally between court-yard and garden, they are ſubject to many diſorders, ariſing from obſtructions. A kind of deafneſs is ſo common, that a Chineſe, in his 40th or 50th year, is ſeldom free from it; and perhaps it is in conſequence [328] of this impediment to ſound, that their muſic pleaſes them infinitely beyond ours; and they had rather hear a drum, a ring of bells, or the jingling of a few, braſs ba⯑ſons, than any concert of European inſtruments. With thoſe who can afford furniture, it conſiſts of tables, cabi⯑nets, ſcreens, chairs, and abundance of porcelain vaſes; the whole is covered with that beautiful varniſh which we cannot imitate, and prettily ornamented with painted figures. The hall is the only place where viſitors are re⯑ceived, they being admitted into no other part of the houſe.

The city of Nanking is the capital of the province of Kiang-Nan, and ſituated in latitude 32 N. was former⯑ly the reſidence of the Emperor, and by far the largeſt and moſt populous city of all China. A French miſſion⯑ary, lately arrived from that Country, ſpeaks of it as follows. "We arrived at Nanking on the 2d of June, "I was very deſirous of ſeeing that city, which is reckon⯑ed to be the largeſt in the world. The ſuburbs, through which we paſſed, are very long, but not populous. The houſes ſtand at ſome diſtance from each other, having reeds, pools of water, or plantations of bamboo, be⯑tween them. We took a view of it from the fifth ſtory of the porcelain tower, which commands an extenſive proſpect; but it did not appear to us to be above two thirds as large as Paris. We could not reconcile this wi [...]h the accounts generally given of its immenſe extent; but next morning explained the matter. We had tra⯑velled [329] a full league from Nanking, when we perceived, on a ſudden, the walls of a city riſing amidſt mountains, and appearing as if cemented to the rocks. Theſe were the walls of Nanking, which, leaving the city where it now ſtands, have, as it were, retired thither to incloſe a ſpace of 15 or 16 leagues, 12 or 13 of which are not inhabited.

Nanking has loſt much of its ancient ſplendor. It had formerly a magnificent palace, but no remains of it are left. A third part of the city is deſerted, but the reſt is well inhabited. Some parts of it are extremely populous, and full of buſineſs; the ſtreets are not ſo broad as thoſe of Peking, but are very beautiful, well paved in the middle, with large, marble ſlabs, and, on the ſides, with variety of pebble and other ſtones, curiouſly inlaid and bordered with ſhops. The breadth and dept of the river, on which the city ſtands, render its port very commo⯑dious, being here two leagues wide; but it is now grown into diſuſe. Here reſides a mandarin, or gover⯑nor, and the Tartars have a numerous garriſon, com⯑manded by a general of their own nation. The city has ſtill, ſome beautiful gates, ſome few temples, and that famous, octagon, porcelain tower, of which, I ſaid, there is an exact model in Kew-gardens; it is 200 feet high, and 80 wide at bottom, is in good condition, and has ſtood near 400 years. It conſiſts of nine, ſimilar ſtories, leſſening in ſize, as the column riſes, ſo as to form a pyramid. Between each ſtory is a penthouſe all [330] round, covered with green, varniſhed tiles, growing leſs and leſs, like the tower itſelf; and decreaſing in breadth, as it increaſes in heighth. On the top is a cupola, thirty feet higher than the eighth ſtory, with a large golden ball above; and the whole is caſed with China-ware, glazed and painted, and ſo joined, as to ſeem one piece of China. There is alſo a bell in Nanking, 11 feet high, and ſeven in diameter, that weighs 50,000lb.

Of the city and environs of Canton, I ſhall ſay a little more, as being the place to which the Engliſh go, and of courſe could receive better information reſpecting it.

One begins, ſays Premare, to have an idea of China, on entering the river Canton. Both ſides of it preſent large fields of rice, which reſemble green meadows, and extend beyond the reach of ſight; they are interſected by an infinite number of ſmall canals, in ſuch manner, that the barks which paſs and repaſs in them, ſeem, at a diſtance, to ſail along the graſs, the water that carries them being concealed from the eye. Farther in land the country appears covered with trees, and cultivated along the vallies, and the whole ſcene is interſperſed with villages, rural ſeats, and ſuch a variety of delight⯑ful proſpects, that one is never tired of viewing them, and regrets to be obliged to paſs them ſo quickly.

From the Engliſh factory at Canton, to Wampo, where the ſhips lie, it is about ſix miles by water, on the river Ta; and in the way there, the eye is delighted, not only with green and fruitful fields, and boats paſſing and re-paſſing; but with a number of villages and lofty pagodas and ſteeples. One of theſe pagodas is ſituated cloſe to the river, and is called the half-way-houſe. (See the plate of Wampo.)

The city is entered by ſeven, iron gates, within each of which is a guard-houſe. No European is allowed to enter there, if known. The ſoldiers that keep guard, are armed with ſpears, darts, ſwords, and match-lock [332] guns; but moſt of them with bows and arrows, which they eſteem more than any other military weapon.

Canton is compoſed, as it were, of three different cities, ſo united that the ſame gates ſerve to go out from one, and enter another. Theſe three cities form a regular ſquare; the ſtreets are long and narrow, and paved with broad ſtone, and ornamented from ſpace to ſpace with triumphal arches; ſome of them are covered; theſe contain the richeſt ſhops. The houſes are like thoſe of Peking, ſome of which are hung with paper, or pieces of white taffety, on which are written, in Chineſe charac⯑ters, religious and moral ſentences. They have no chim⯑nies, but, in their ſtead, place a ſhallow, iron pot filled with charcoal, in the middle of the room, in winter, which is ſuffocating to people unaccuſtomed to it. In their kitchens they have a copper, built in brick-work, much about the height of our Engliſh ſtoves. The windows are made of cane, or rattan. In winter, they cut oyſter-ſhells into diamond-ſhape, and ſet them in wooden frames, but theſe afford only a dull light.

The ſhops of thoſe that deal in ſilk, are very neat, make a fine ſhow, and are all in one place; for tradeſ⯑men, or dealers in any kind of goods, herd together in the ſame ſtreet. On this account you may hear the En⯑gliſh ſailors talking of the ſtreets of Canton, as if they were ſpeaking of London, or ſome other Engliſh city. The ſtreet where the China-ſhops are, they call China-Row; [333] that where cloaths are ſold, Monmouth-Street; and that narrow ſtreet, where men's caps, ſhoes, &c. are expoſed to ſale, Mandarin-cap-alley; and a narrow paſſage, cloſe to the city-wall, where lapidary and glaſs-work is ſold, is called Stone-cutter's-alley; and ſo of many others. The ſhops have counters, drawers, and diviſions, much like our own, and there are few of the merchants, but who have a perſon that can ſpeak broken Engliſh or Portugueſe; ſo that French, Dutch, and Danes, are obliged to ſpeak either the one or the other, when they traffic with them.

There are a great number of market-places for fiſh, fleſh, poultry, vegetables, and all kinds of proviſions. Every thing is ſold cheap. Fiſhmongers keep their fiſh alive in ciſterns. Dogs, cats, frogs, and rats, are here ſold as proviſions. Indeed, the Chineſe have good appetites, for they will eat any ſort of meat, that which dies in a ditch, equally as hearty as that killed by a butcher. Dogs and cats are commonly brought to mar⯑ket alive, in baſkets, are generally young and fat, and kept very clean. Rats, ſome of which are of a mon⯑ſtrous ſize, are very fat, and generally hung up with the ſkins on, by nails on the poſts of the market-place. Frogs, which are the greateſt dainty here, are ſold at a great price. They are black, and loathſome to a Eu⯑ropean eye, but the Chineſe ſay, they have a very fine taſte. The rats, they ſay, eat well; and ſnake-broth was in reputation here, long before it was known to [334] us. Frogs are ſtrung upon a rod, in the ſame manner as we ſtring fiſh in England.

In paſſing through the ſtreets, one is almoſt ſuffocated by the ſtench of the houſes on each ſide, and particularly a ſtreet about a mile above the Engliſh factory, where there is nothing but cook-ſhops. They have large hogs roaſted whole, and numbers of dogs, cats, and rats, upon the ſpits, and the cooks themſelves, with their utenſils, have ſuch a dirty appearance, that the ſight, or ſmell may almoſt ſatisfy the keeneſt European appetite. They ſend about their victuals for ſale, by Cowlies, or porters.

The common people, ſays Lockyer, eat four times a day, and are ſuch gluttons, that, if they are in the mid⯑dle of their buſineſs, will leave it, and run to their victuals at the uſual hour. Rice is their uſual diet, which they cram into their mouths ſo greedily, with their chop-ſticks (which are a ſubſtitute for fork and ſpoon) that it would probably choak them, if they did not waſh it down every now and then, with a cup of ſamſhue, ſtanding by them. Some of them will eat ſix pint-baſons of rice at one meal.

People of condition are here carried about in chairs. The ſtreets are continually crowded, eſpecially with por⯑ters, who are all loaded, and have, for the moſt part, their heads, legs, and feet bare. There is no conve⯑nience in this city for conveying goods from one part to another, but on men's ſhoulders.

[335]In the ſtreets of Canton, we often meet with blind beggars, a diſeaſe which ſome imagine is the conſequence of their living ſo much upon rice; or it may be owing to the hot winds which blow here at certain ſeaſons; they are, indeed, miſerable objects, and commonly go naked, excepting a trowſer, or cloth round their waiſt; their ſkins are as black as Malays, and ſometimes ſo parched, ſpotted, and full of running ſores and ulcers, that they truly ſtink alive. They go ſometimes in companies, and are ſure to follow and plague Europeans, becauſe they get from one foreigner, more, ſometimes, than from a dozen of their own countrymen. They hold out a coarſe China baſon, and will not leave you until you put ſome⯑thing into it; nay, if you are not upon your guard, they will run againſt you, with their dirty hands, and diſeaſed bodies. The common ſailors give them uſually a bit of tin, in order to ſave their money, and avoid coming in contact with theſe moſt wretched of creatures. The Chineſe themſelves are very uncharitable; they never give money to a beggar, but put them off with a ſmall hand⯑ful of rice.

There are a great many, private walks about the ſkirts of the town, where thoſe of the better ſort have their houſes, and which are little frequented by Europeans, whoſe buſi⯑neſs is chiefly in the trading part of the city, where there are only ſhops and warehouſes. Few of the Chineſe keep their families in the houſes where they do buſineſs, but, [336] either in the city, in the more remote ſuburbs, or further up the country.

As the women in China are kept ſo very private, that many have made voyages there, and never ſeen a woman, but of the loweſt rank; it is natural for them to pry into the moſt retired and unfrequented places, where there is a probability of the womens being leaſt upon their guard; and in ſuch rambles, a European's curioſity is ſel⯑dom entirely diſappointed. Sometimes they pop in on a parcel of young boys and girls, attended by their nurſes; but when this happens, they are all ſo frighted at the ſight of a Fanquy, as they call foreigners, that they will ſcream out, and run into their houſes, and by their noiſe▪ alarm the whole ſtreet. Their houſes having no windows to the ſtreet, and having a ſcreen of ſplit cane before the door, it is impoſſible to ſee them; though they can eaſily ſee any perſon without, through the lattice-work of the ſcreen.

Now and then, on turning a corner, or on entering a private ſtreet, ſuddenly, we find ourſelves in a company of young ladies, converſing or playing together; but they no ſooner ſee us, than they ſet up a ſcream, and run for ſhelter into their apartments, as if the devil himſelf was chaſing them.

"However," ſays an Engliſhman, who has been of⯑ten at Canton, ‘theſe accidental interviews made us very [337] happy; for we frequently ſaw ſome charming crea⯑tures, ſurpaſſing all deſcription, and whoſe beauty, moſt Europeans, who have been there, are intirely ignorant of. Indeed we could only be happy in the glance of one or two ſuch, in a ſtreet, for the ſcream⯑ing of one caught out of doors, immediately alarmed the reſt of the ladies, and baffled our curioſity.’

‘Sometimes, indeed, we met them at a conſiderable diſtance from their houſes, and, as their feet are ſo little, that they cannot walk or run, but rather trip, or hobble along, and are often obliged to aſſiſt them⯑ſelves by laying hold of the wall, as they move along; it gave us an opportunity to gaze on them attentively, on ſuch occaſions, that they ſeemed ſo affrighted, and walked ſo awkwardly, that I was fain to retire, leſt I ſhould have made them ſtumble and fall, for which I ſhould certainly have been bamboo'd.’

‘The complexion of the ladies is exceeding fair, and their hair of the fineſt black, dreſſed up with gold and ſilver bodkins, and adorned with flowers. Their ſhape is exquiſitely fine, and their dreſs the moſt becoming, natural, eaſy, and ſplendid, I ever ſaw.’

‘Before we left Canton, they were ſo familiarized to our viſits, that the young boys would frequently come, or were ſent, to ſalute us; but if we offered to ap⯑proach the houſes, where their mothers, or nurſes [338] waited their return, they preſently ran from us, and ſhut the door.’

It is reckoned, that there are, in the city and ſuburbs, 1,200,000 people, and you will ſcarce find a day in the whole year, but there are 5000 trading veſſels lying be⯑fore the town.

The Engliſh factory is ſituated in one of the beſt ſtreets in the town, where all foreigners reſide. It is very large, has a number of courts, halls, and warehouſes; with convenient rooms to lodge a great number of peo⯑ple. One large gate opens to the ſtreet, and another to the water, where our boats load and unload. At each gate, a centinel is kept day and night. There is alſo a petty officer appointed, to ſee the centinels duly relieved, and the porters, or cowlies, do their duty; to take an ac⯑count of all goods, that come in or go out of the factory; to prepare rooms for the officers and people, when they come to reſide ſome little time in the factory; to enter⯑tain the officers and men, and, in a word, to ſee that every thing is kept in proper order; for all the officers and men are allowed a certain time to reſide, and do bu⯑ſineſs, at Canton, according to their ſtation, which they do by turns: and, in the factory, often ſixty perſons are entertained at once.

The temples, and places of public worſhip, are the moſt magnificent buildings at Canton; they are well ſtocked with images, to which the people pay profound adoration, by falling down on their knees before them, wringing [340] their hands and beating their foreheads againſt the ground. Theſe temples, or joſs-houſes, are generally one ſtory high, and are very numerous; they are decorated with a great number of artificial flowers, embroidered hangings, curtains, and fringes. One of them, ſituated in the ſkirt of the north-eaſt ſide of the ſuburbs, makes a ſplen⯑did appearance: it is four ſtories high, has a fine cupola, with many out-houſes and galleries. This was formerly a palace belonging to the Wang-tai, or king of the pro⯑vince of Canton, before the Tartars conquered China, and who was then an independant prince. Before the principal gate of the temple are two large images, one on each ſide, about 12 feet high, with ſpears and lances in their hands, ſomewhat reſembling thoſe in Guildhall, London: this gate leads into a fine, large, paved court, and we enter the temple which fronts it, by free-ſtone ſteps. The lower part of the temple is built with fine hewn ſtone, but the upper part is timber. In the lower hall, there are a number of images of all ſizes, and of diffe⯑rent dignities, all finely gilt, and kept exceedingly clean, by the prieſts. Leſſer images are placed in the corners of the hall, and one of a larger ſize in the middle. The center god ſits in a lazy poſture, with his heels drawn up to his breech, almoſt naked, particularly his breaſt and belly, and leaning on a large cuſhion: he is ten times larger than an ordinary man, very corpulent, and of a merry countenance, and gilt all over: models of this, in China-ware, have often been brought to England. Up⯑ſtairs [341] there are alſo many images of men and women, who have been deified for their brave and virtuous actions.

The rooms of this cathedral, or temple, are large and ſpacious, but very old, and much out of repair. It is ſurrounded with canals and gardens, but for want of proper care, the water is ſtagnated, and over-grown with weeds and ruins.

Though Canton is but 24 degrees from the equator, and is ſcorching hot in ſummer, yet, about the months of December and January, it is ſubject to high winds, and very heavy rains. The ſudden alteration, the climate and temperature of the air then undergoes, is very ſur⯑priſing. At this time, the people of China take to their winter-dreſs, which is lined with furs, or quilted cotton. Inſtead of wearing fans, which are uſed by men, women, and children, in hot weather, they keep a live quail in their hands, to keep them warm, and have the long ſleeves of their gowns down, to cover their hands. Thus equipped, they walk ſo ſtiff, and ſhove up their ſhoul⯑ders ſo much, that one would think they were freezing to death.

The ſtreets of Canton, in the time of thoſe violent ſtorms, called the Typhones, are over-flowed with water, and it is often ſo deep, that in many places it will float a ſmall boat. Common people then paſs from ſtreet to ſtreet, by wading through the water, but thoſe of the bet⯑ter [342] claſs, are carried in chairs, or on men's backs. Their umbrellas are now uſed to ſhade them from the ſun, which juſt before were uſed to keep off the rain.

The river Ta, at Canton, is ſomewhat broader than the Thames at London; but the crowds of ſmall veſſels that ply the Ta, are vaſtly more numerous. For the ſpace of four or five miles oppoſite the city, is an exten⯑ſive, wooden town of large veſſels and boats, ſtowed ſo cloſe, as ſcarce to leave room for a boat to paſs. They are generally drawn up in ranks, with a narrow paſſage left, for veſſels to paſs and re-paſs. Some of them are large veſſels, of 8 or 900 tons burthen, called junks in which they perform their foreign voyages. Here are alſo an incredible number of ſmall boats, in which poor families live all their life-time; begetting, and bringing up children without ever putting a foot on ſhore: in theſe they keep hogs, dogs, cats, geeſe, and other domeſtic animals, both for ſubſiſtence and ſale. We have nothing ſimilar to this in Europe; but people in China are ſo ex⯑ceedingly numerous, that vaſt numbers of families are obliged to betake themſelves to boats on the river, for want of room, or means of ſubſiſtence on the land, where almoſt every habitable ſpot is occupied. Theſe boats are very conveniently built, with arched covers, and tilts, made of ſolid wood, or with bamboo, or cajan leaves, ſo high, that people can walk upright under them. They manage them very nimbly, having a ſculling oar at the [343] ſtern, with which they puſh them on very faſt, and paſs each other with eaſe and ſafety.

The large ſampans, for in-land carriage, are generally ſteered with ſculls, for were they to uſe oars, there would not be room on the river for half their number. They have all long, bamboo poles, for puſhing up along ſhore. Theſe boats are employed in carrying goods and paſſen⯑gers up and down the rivers and canals.

The ſmaller boats are employed in catching fiſh with nets; which they barter for cloaths, fleſh, rice, and other neceſſaries. The owners of theſe boats, are always at home, as they carry their houſes along with them, but miſerably poor: their children are numerous, and, in ſummer, go quite naked. They are much tanned, con⯑tinually crawling about the boat, and have all of them calabaſh ſhells tied on their backs, to buoy them up, and ſave them from drowning, ſhould they chance to fall over-board, which often happens. Their beds are fixed below the deck on which they live, and which, being made of boards, and jointed, can be occaſionally re⯑moved. In the hinder part of the boat, is a place where a ſtove is fixed to dreſs their food, and another apart⯑ment for keeping their live animals, which they have in great numbers, and which, when they want room, they hang in baſkets, on the outſide of the boat.

[344]Theſe boats come crowding about the European ſhips, at Wampo, eſpecially at dinner-time, begging victuals from the people on board, in return for which, they of⯑fer to waſh their linen, and do other menial offices.

Some of theſe boats have ſmart, young girls on board of them, which induces the ſailors to employ them; and it is among theſe miſerable wretches, that European ſailors, taking advantage of their neceſſities, bargain with a father or mother, for the favours of their daughter. But this traffic muſt be carried on very ſecretly, leſt it ſhould be obſerved by the petty mandarins, who are ap⯑pointed to viſit often, and keep order and diſcipline in this floating world. Theſe mandarins are continually going up and down the rivers, ſearching ſuch boats as they have any reaſon to ſuſpect. Should any European be caught in them, with a young woman, he, together with the people of the boat, muſt undergo the chaſtiſe⯑ment of the bamboo, or bribe the mandarin with a dol⯑lar or two, to let them paſs. There are ſome of theſe boats called loblob boats, well ſtocked with a number of beautiful, young women, of different ages, to whom every body, Chineſe or European, may have acceſs at any time. Though theſe boats are under the juriſdiction of the mandarins, and equally liable to puniſhment, with the others; yet there is ſo good an underſtanding between the mandarins, and the proprietors of theſe boats, that they deal pretty extenſively, and with great ſafety; only, when they diſcern a European, who has a large ſum of [345] money about him, they lay their heads together to make the moſt of him. It is ſaid, the mandarins themſelves are no ſtrangers to theſe boats, particularly when there are any freſh goods embarked. Pimps are numerous. If a European wants to ſee a lady of pleaſure, it is only ſpeak⯑ing to theſe fellows, who will immediately conduct you in a ſmall ſampan, to a place where your wiſhes may be gratified. Theſe enterpriſes, however, are not always executed without danger.

At the entrance of the bay of Canton, is the celebrated Portugueze port, called Macao, in latitude 22 degrees, 12 minutes. The town is built on the point of a ſmall iſland, which commands a good road, and ſafe ſhelter for ſhipping. The Portugueſe obtained this port, as a reward for ſome aſſiſtance they gave againſt a celebrated pirate, who had laid ſiege to the capital of this large pro⯑vince; but they ſubmit to the Chineſe, pay their cuſtoms to the Emperor, and obey his mandarins. They have, however, a governor of their own, and pay the Emperor annually, a tribute of 100,000 ducats, for the liberty of chooſing their own magiſtrates, exerciſing their religion, and living according to their own laws. Their houſes are built after the European manner, and the city is de⯑fended by three forts, well planted with artillery.

It is remarkable that the Portugueſe here hold their Sunday on the ſame day the Spaniards, on the Philippine Iſlands, do their Saturday. This difference of days, which [346] is general through the week, ariſes from the different routes theſe nations take, in going to their ſeveral ſettle⯑ments. The Portugueſe, in going to Macao, ſail eaſt⯑ward; whereas the Spaniards, in going to the Philippine Iſles, from America, ſail to the weſt.

Four leagues from Canton, is the famous village of Fo-chan, the largeſt and moſt populous in the world. It is called a village, not having a governor, nor being en⯑cloſed with walls; yet it contains more houſes and inhabi⯑tants, than even Canton itſelf. It is reckoned to be three leagues in circumference.

North-eaſt of Canton, in the province of Fo-kien, the Port, called Emouy, from the iſland that forms it. It is ſo large, that ſeveral thouſand veſſels may ride at anchor in it, and the depth of water is ſo great, that the largeſt ſhips may lie cloſe to the ſhore without danger. It uſed to be much frequented by European veſſels; but all the trade is now removed to Canton. There is, how⯑ever, a garriſon of 6 or 7000 men, commanded by a Chineſe general. Three leagues from it, is a ſmall iſland, with a natural arch in the middle, which can be ſeen through, and it is hence called the perforated iſland. The iſle of Emouy is particularly celebrated for the magnificence of its principal pagoda, conſecrated to the deity Fo.

[347]The moſt eaſterly port on the continent of China, is Nimpo. This is a city of the firſt magnitude, very po⯑pulous, and beautified with many triumphal arches. It is but two days ſail from Japan, with which iſland, they carry on a great trade.