[] A TOUR Through the ISLAND of GREAT BRITAIN. VOL. II.

LETTER I. Containing a DESCRIPTION of the North Shores of the Counties of Cornwall and Devon, and ſome Parts of Somerſetſhire, Wiltſhire, Dorſetſhire, Glouceſterſhire, Buckinghamſhire, and Berkſhire.

I NOW turned about to the Eaſt; and as, when I went Weſt, I kept to the Southern Coaſt of this long County of Cornwall, and of Devonſhire alſo, ſo in going Eaſt, I ſhall keep the North Shore. The firſt Place of any Note, we came to, was St. Ive's, a pretty good Town, and grown rich by the Fiſhing Trade; it is ſituated on the Weſt-ſide of a deep Bay, called St. Ives-bay, [2] from the Town. This Bay is oppoſite, on the Land⯑ſide, to Mount's-bay, which I ſpoke of in my laſt; but it is filled up with Sands, and here is but very little Trade in any thing elſe but Corniſh Slate.

It is a very pleaſant View we have at Madern-hills, and the Plain by them, in the Way from the Land's-end to St. Ives; where we have a Proſpect of the Ocean at the Land's-end, Weſt; of the Britiſh Chanel at Mount's-bay, South; and the Briſtol Chanel, or Severn Sea, North. At St. Ives the Land between the Two Bays, being not above Four or Five Miles over, is ſo ſituated, that upon the Hill neither of the Two Seas are above Three Miles off, and very plain to be ſeen; and ſo likewiſe, in a clear Day, are the Iſlands of Scilly, tho' above 30 Miles off.

The Country from hence to Padſtow is both fruit⯑ful and pleaſant, and ſeveral Houſes of Gentlemen are ſeen as we paſs; the Sands alſo are very agreeable to the Eye, and to travel upon: among the Gentle⯑mens Houſes is Lanhidrock, the Seat of the Earls of Radnor, who are Barons of Truro, and were ſo, long before they obtained the Title of Radnor; alſo a good Houſe belonging to the antient Family of Trefuſis.

The Hills are fruitful of Tin, Copper and Lead, all the Way on our Right-hand; the Product of which is carried all to the other Shore; ſo that we ſhall have little to ſay of it here. The chief Buſineſs on this Shore is the Herring Fiſhing; the Herrings about October come driving up the Severn Sea, and from the Coaſt of Ireland, in prodigious Shoals, and beat all upon this Coaſt as high as Bidiford and Barn⯑ſtable in Devonſhire, and are caught in great Quan⯑tities by the Fiſhermen, chiefly on Account of the Merchants of Falmouth, Foy, Plymouth, and other Ports on the South.

[3] St. Michael's, or Modiſhole, a mean Portreeve Borough, is not now remarkable, but was of great Note in the Saxon Time, and has ſtill a Market weekly, and a yearly Fair.

We then came to St. Columb's, a little Market-town, a Lordſhip belonging to the Arundels of Wardour; ſo called, to diſtinguiſh them from the Arundels of Trerice in this County; which Family, eſpouſing the King's Side in the Civil Wars, ſuffered much, and was innobled in Charles II.'s Time. The Wardour Family was likewiſe loyal, and ſuffered in the ſame Cauſe.

Near this Place is a Hill, which has a Rampire on the Summit of it, and a Cauſeway leading to it. 'Tis an old Daniſh Camp, and called Caſtellum Danis.

Padſtow is a large Town, and ſtands on a very good Harbour for ſuch Shipping as uſe the Iriſh Trade. The Harbour is the Mouth of the River Camel, or Camal, which riſing at Camelford, runs down by Bodmyn to Wadbridge, a little Town, where a large Stone Bridge of about Eight Arches is built by the Contributions of the Country Gentle⯑men, at the Motion, and under the Direction, of one Nicolas Lovibond, Vicar of Wadbridge, the Paſſage over the River before being very dangerous, and having occaſioned the Loſs of ſome Lives, as well as Goods.

The Paſſage from this Town of Padſtow to Ire⯑land is ſaid, by Writers, to be no more than Twenty-four Hours; but this, if ever done, hat been ſo ſel⯑dom, that it ought not to be mentioned as generally the Caſe; for I believe not one in Twenty-four Ships makes its Voyage in ſo few Hours; and that they are oftener Five or Six Days in the Paſſage. Here is a very antient Seat, like a Caſtle, of a Family of the Name of Prideaux, the Chief of which, in Queen Elizabeth's Time, built this noble Seat there.

[4]Higher within the Land lies the Market and Borough Town of Bodmyn, formerly one of the Coining Towns of Tin, till it loſt that Privilege to Leſtwithyel: However it ſtill injoys ſeveral Ad⯑vantages, ſome of which are Tokens of its Anti⯑quity. It is pretty large, and ſtands between two Hills in a good Air. It had antiently ſeveral Churches, of which now only one remains, which belonged to the Priory, and is at preſent the Pariſh Church. A kind of Carnival is kept here yearly, in July, whither great Numbers of People reſort.

The Coinage Towns were, in Queen Elizabeth's Time, Four; namely,

• Leſkard,
• Leſtwithyel,
• Truro,
• Helſton.

Since that, in King James's Time, was added Penſance.

Camelford is a mean, but antient Borough-town. Here the River Camel riſes, which takes its Name from the Britiſh Word Cam, i. e. crooked. It has not either Church or Chapel in it, nor ever had. It is only remarkable for two great Battles which were fought here, one between King Arthur and his Nephew Mordred, and the other between the Britons and Saxons.

The Borough of Boſſiney, otherwiſe called Trevena, is but a ſmall Village. It is famous only for the ſplendid Ruins of an impregnable Caſtle, built on the Rock, which ſtood partly on the Continent, and partly on an Iſland, joined together by a Draw⯑bridge. The Caſtle was the Seat of the Britiſh Princes, and ſince, of the Dukes of Cornwall. And, 'tis ſaid, Arthur was born here, and died in one of the above-mentioned Battles near Camelford.

Launceſton, which is a Corruption of the Britiſh Word Lanſtuphadon, i. e. St. Stephen's Church; is a Market and Borough-town, pretty neat, and is [5] ſituate on a riſing Ground, at the Extremity of the County, on the Borders of Devonſhire: great Part of it is very old, ragged and decayed.

When Richard Earl of Cornwall had the Govern⯑ment of this County, this was a Frontier Town, well walled about, and fortified, and had alſo a noble Caſtle, which, from its Strength, was called Caſtle Terrible. The Inhabitants, for the Defence and Repair of it, held formerly the Lands here by Caſtle-guard.

Here the Lord Hopton's good Fortune failed him, and he was forced by Fairfax to diſband his Army.

Not far from hence is Hengeſton-hill, which pro⯑duces a great Plenty of Corniſh Diamonds. The Corniſh Britons joined the Danes here, to drive out the Saxons from Devonſhire; but were totally de⯑feated by Egbert in 831, which, 'tis conjectured, gives the Name of Hengiſt to this Hill, in Comme⯑moration of their firſt Leader.

Newport is a little Village adjoining, and was formerly Part of Launceſton; and yet ſends Two Members to Parliament. And indeed there are no leſs than Forty-four, and the Number of Electors are ſo few in many of the Places, that an Admi⯑niſtration, of which Side ſoever it be, as to Party, has uſually a great Reliance on the Elections in this County every new Parliament, in order to obtain a Majority in the Houſe of Commons: For Forty-four Members from hence, and Forty-five from an⯑other Part of the Iſland, who generally go one way, make no ſmall Figure in a Queſtion: And in this Caſe it may not be improperly obſerved, that the two Extremities of the Iſland, let the other Parts go as they will, are generally united in the ſame way of Thinking, or at leaſt of Acting, in all Political Debates, and are likely to be ſo in all Times to come.

[6]There is a fine Image or Figure of Mary Magda⯑len, upon the Tower of the Church at Launceſton, to which the Papiſts fail not to pay Reverence, as they paſs by. There is no Tin, Copper or Lead found hereabouts, as I could hear, nor any Manu⯑facture in the Place. There are a pretty many Attorneys here, who manage Buſineſs for the reſt of their Fraternity at the Aſſizes: As to Trade, it has not much to boaſt of, and yet there are People enough in it to excuſe thoſe who call it a populous Place. There is a long Nook of the County runs North from this Place, called the Hundred of Strat⯑ton, in which there is one Market-town, named Stratton; but it has nothing in or about it worth remarking, except only Stow-houſe, built by the Earl of Bath, in the Reign of King Charles II. and as to its Finiſhings within, not inferior to any in Eng⯑land. The Carvings, eſpecially thoſe of the Chapel; the grand Alcove, and ſome of the beſt Rooms, were done by the Hand of Michael Chuke, and are not excelled by Gibbon himſelf. The Landſchape, and Sea-pieces, of which there were a great Number, (particularly in the great Stairs, a Proſpect of Ply⯑mouth, containing 22 Feet by 12) were the Work of Vandeiſt. The Situation of this ſtately Palace renders it a diſagreeable Habitation; for which Rea⯑ſon the Owners have diſpoſed of the Materials, and it is now (Nov. 1739) pulling to Pieces. Near this Town, Sir Ralph Hopton defeated the Parliament Forces under the Command of Major-General Chud⯑leigh, and took him Priſoner; for which he was made Baron Stratton. 'Tis ſaid, the Place where this Bat⯑tle was fought, produced a prodigious Crop of Barley of 10 or 12 Ears on a Stalk, the next Year.

Not far from Bodmyn, is to be ſeen the Set of monumental Stones, called The Hurlers; which Dr. Stukeley ſays, are, out of Doubt, Remains of an antient Druid Temple. Probably they are called by [7] this Name, from the Game of Hurling, practiſed in theſe Parts; the Country People giving them that for want of a better; and indeed, it is ſaid, that they have a ſuperſtitious Notion, that they were once Men, who were transformed into Stones, for playing at this Sport on a Sunday. They are oblong, rude, unhewn Stones, pitched on one End upon the Ground. They ſtand on a Down in Three Circles, the Centres whereof are in a right Line, the middle-moſt Circle the greateſt.

Now I have mentioned the Hurlers, I muſt take the Opportunity to deſcribe the Hurling Match; for which the Corniſh Men are ſo particularly famous, and which is one of their principal Recreations, tho' bar⯑barous enough. A Silver Ball is generally the Prize on theſe Occaſions. The Match is made in different Manners: for ſometimes the Challenge is by Twenty or Thirty Men on a Side, and no others are to inter⯑fere; at other times, when a great Number of People are aſſembled at a Wake or Church-Ale, the Word is given out, That Johns, Wills, and Toms, will oppoſe all other Names: or, at other times, That Eldeſt or Seconds are againſt all Younger Sons. And ſo the Ball is thrown up, and becomes the Property of that Party which carries it away to the Goal ſet for that Purpoſe.

But another kind of Hurling is, when an Out-ball, as they call it, is thrown up; and theſe Matches are generally made by Two or more neighbouring Gentle⯑men, who, at a Day agreed on, bring each of them the Men of Two, Three, or more Pariſhes; and the Goals are then ſet, perhaps, Four or Five Miles diſtant, at ſome Gentlemens Houſes, Towns, or the like: and here nothing is ſaid about Matching in Number, or otherwiſe; but the Ball is thrown up, and a bloody Skirmiſh generally enſues: no Buſhes, Briers, Bogs, Mud-pools, Rivers, or any other Impediments, hinder their Courſe, nor any [8] Friendſhip, Relation, or former Obligation, in the leaſt, abates their Fury. The Party prevailing ge⯑nerally preſent the Ball to the Gentlemen who brought them on, as a Trophy; and he, in Return, ſets open his Cellar-doors, where they waſh away the Blood from their Noſes, and apply a Balſam to their Bruiſes.

The Wreſtling in Cornwall is, indeed, a much more manly and generous Exerciſe; and that Clo⯑ſure, which they call the Corniſh Hug, has made them eminent in the Wreſtling Rings all over Eng⯑land; as the Norfolk and Suffolk Men are, for their Dexterity at the Hand and Foot, and throwing up the Heels of their Adverſary, without taking hold of him.

Paſſing the River Tamar, about Two Miles from Launceſton, we enter the great County of Devon; and as it is in the moſt wild and barren Part of it, and where formerly Tin Mines were found, tho' now they are either quite exhauſted, or not to be worked without more Charge than Profit; ſo we muſt expect it a little to reſemble its neighbour County.

The River Tamar here abounds with freſh Salmon, which are ſo exceeding fat and good, that they are eſteemed in both Counties above the Fiſh of the ſame Kind found in other Places; and the Quantity is ſo great, as ſupplies the Country in abundance. This is occaſioned by the Mouth of the River being ſo very large, and the Water ſo deep for Two Leagues be⯑fore it opens into Plymouth Sound, that the Fiſh have a ſecure Retreat in the ſalt Water for their Harbour and Shelter, and from thence they ſhoot up into the freſh Water, in vaſt Numbers, to caſt their Spawn.

We ride but a few Miles in Devonſhire, before we find a different Face in ſeveral reſpects: As, 1. More People than in Cornwall: 2. Larger Towns: 3. The People all buſy, and in full Imploy upon their Manufactures.

[9]At the uppermoſt and extreme Part of the County North-weſt, runs a large Promontory into the Sea beyond all the Land on either Side, whether of Devonſhire, or of Cornwall. This they would fain have called Hercules's Promontory; but the honeſt Sailors, and, after them, the plain Country People, call it Hartland Point, or Hearty Point, from the Town of Hartland, which ſtands juſt within the Shore, and is ſituated on the utmoſt Edge of the County of Devon: It is a Market-town of good Reſort, the People coming conſtantly to it out of Cornwall, the Fiſher-boats of Barnſtable, Bidiford, and the other Towns on the Coaſts, lying often un⯑der the Lee, as they call it, of theſe Rocks, for Shelter from the South-weſt, or South-eaſt Winds; at which time the Seamen go on Shore here, and ſupply themſelves with Proviſions: nor is the Town unconcerned in that gainful Fiſhing-trade, which is carried on for the Herrings on this Coaſt.

From this Point or Promontory, the Land falling away for ſome Miles, makes a Gulph or Bay, which reaching to the Head-land, or Point of Barnſtable Haven, is called from thence Barnſtable Bay. Into this Bay, or at the Weſt-end of it, the Rivers Taw and Towridge empty themſelves at one Mouth; and it is very particular, that as Two Rivers join in One Chanel, ſo here are Two great trading Towns in One Port, a thing, which, as it is not uſual, ſo I cannot ſay is an Advantage to any of them; for it naturally follows, that they rival one another, and leſſen both; whereas, had they been joined together in one Town, or were it poſſible to join them, they would make the moſt conſiderable Town, or City rather, in all this Part of England.

Theſe are the Towns of Barnſtable and Bidiford, the firſt, the moſt antient; the laſt, the moſt flouriſhing; the Harbour or River is, in its En⯑trance, the ſame to both; and when they part, [10] the Towridge turns to the Right, or South-weſt, and the Taw to the South-eaſt; yet they ſeem to be both ſo ſafe, ſo eaſy in the Chanel, ſo equally good with reſpect to Shipping, and ſo equidiſtant from the Sea, that neither Town complains of the Bounty of the Sea to them, or their Situation by Land; and yet of late Years the Town of Bidiford has flouriſhed, and the Town of Barnſtable rather declined.

Bidiford is a clean, well-built Town; the more antient Street, which lies next the River, is very pleaſant, where is the Bridge, a very noble Quay, and the Cuſtom-houſe; it is alſo very well built and populous, and fronts the River for above three Quarters of a Mile: But beſides this, there is a new ſpacious Street, which runs North and South, or rather North-weſt, and South-eaſt, a great Length, broad as the High-Street of Exeter, well-built, and inhabited with conſiderable and wealthy Merchants, who traffick to moſt Parts of the World.

Here, as is to be ſeen in almoſt all the Market-towns of Devonſhire, is a very large and well-finiſhed Meeting-houſe, and, by the Multitude of People which I ſaw come out of it, I thought all the Town had gone thither, and began to inquire for the Church: but I found that alſo large, ſpacious, and filled with People of the beſt Faſhion.

The Trade of this Town, as well as of all the Towns on this Coaſt, being very much in Fiſh, I obſerved that ſeveral Ships were imployed to go to Liverpool, and up the River Merſey to Warrington, to fetch the Rock Salt, which is found in that County, (and of which I ſhall ſay more in my Remarks on thoſe Parts) to Bidiford and Barnſtable, and there diſſolve it into Brine in the Sea-water, joining the Strength of two Bodies in one, and then boil it up again into a new Salt, as the Dutch do by that of the French and Portugueſe. This is juſtly called Salt upon Salt, and with this they cure their Herrings. [11] As this is a Trade which can be but of few Years ſtanding, becauſe the Rock Salt itſelf has not been diſcovered in England many Years; ſo the Difference in curing the Fiſh has been ſuch, that the Demand for them has conſiderably increaſed in foreign Markets.

Here is a very fine Stone Bridge over the River, built in the 14th Century, on 24 Gothick Arches, all uniform and regular, and very good Workmanſhip of the kind. Theſe Arches are indeed beautiful and ſtately; but what a late Author ſays, that one of them is ſo big, that a Ship of 60 Tons may ſail under it, is a Miſtake, no ſuch thing being practicable, either at London Bridge, Rocheſter Bridge, or even at York, where the largeſt Arch in England is ſuppoſed to be.

As Bidiford has a fine Bridge over the Towridge, ſo Barnſtable has a very noble one over the Taw, and tho' not longer, is counted larger and ſtronger than the other. Theſe two rival Towns are really very conſiderable; both of them have a large Share in the Trade to Ireland, and in the Herring-fiſhery, and in a Trade to the Britiſh Colonies in America; if Bidiford cures more Fiſh, Barnſtable imports more Wine, and other Merchandizes; they are both eſtabliſhed Ports for landing Wool from Ireland; of which by itſelf.

If Bidiford has a greater Number of Merchants, Barnſtable has a greater Commerce within Land, by its great Market for Iriſh Wool and Yarn, &c. with the Serge-markets of Tiverton and Exeter, who come up hither to buy. So that, in a word, Barn⯑ſtable, tho' it has loſt Ground to Bidiford, yet, take it in all its Trade completely, is full as conſiderable as Bidiford; only, that perhaps it was formerly far ſupe⯑rior to it, and the other has riſen up to be its Match.

Barnſtable is a large, well-built Town, ſeated among the Hills. It is more populous than Bidi⯑ford, but not better built, and ſtands lower; inſo⯑much, that at High-water in Spring-tides it is, in a manner, ſurrounded with Water. The Bridge was [12] built by the generous Benefaction of one Stamford, a Citizen and Merchant of London, who, it ſeems, was not a Native of the Place; but by trading here to his Gain, had Kindneſs enough for the Town, to confer that valuable Benefit upon them. It was formerly walled in, and had a Caſtle and a Priory. 'Tis governed by a Mayor and Twenty-four Bur⯑geſſes, whereof Two are Aldermen. It has alſo an High-Steward, and Recorder.

The Bridge at Bidiford, as above, was likewiſe a Gift; but was, as they ſay, done by Collections among the Clergy, by Grant of Indulgences, and the like Church Management: However, both the Towns are infinitely obliged to the Benefactors; and we wiſh no worſe Uſe had ever been made of Superſtition.

Behind Bidiford, as we come from Launceſton, are ſeveral good Towns, tho' I obſerved, that the Country was wild and barren; as Taviſtock, Torrington, &c.

Taviſtock is ſituate on the Tavy, among Springs, and is a large Town pretty well built. The Abbot of this Place ſat in Parliament, built a Church of 126 Yards long, ſpacious Cloiſters, and a Chapter-houſe, with 36 Stalls, which are all now deſtroy'd.

The Town of Torrington is ſituated on the ſame River that Bidiford ſtands upon. It has a large ſpacious Church, with a Library in it; and was for ſome time the Reſidence of Margaret, the Mother of Henry VII.

Another Town in this Part of the Country is Okehampton, vulgarly Okington, a good Market and Borough-town, governed by Eight principal Burgeſſes, and as many Aſſiſtants: it is a manufacturing Town, as all the Towns this way now are, and pretty rich; but in the Records of Antiquity it appears to have been much more conſiderable than it is now, having 92 Knights Fees belonging to it.

A little above Barnſtable, N. E. upon the Coaſt, ſtands a noted Market and Port-town, called Ilford⯑comb, [13] a Place of good Trade, populous and rich; which is owing to its having a very good Harbour and Road for Ships, which affords a ſafe Shelter for Veſſels from Ireland, when in bad Weather they can⯑not, without the extremeſt Hazard, run into the Mouth of the Taw, which they call Barnſtable Wa⯑ter; and this is one Reaſon, that the Merchants at Barnſtable do much of their Buſineſs at this Port of Ilfordcomb.

The Harbour of this Town was maintain'd former⯑ly at the private Expence of the Anceſtors of Sir Bourchier Wrey, Bart. Lord of the Manor; and the Quay or Pier of it contains in Length upwards of 850 Feet, and in Height upwards of Forty; and the Warp-houſe, Light-houſe, Pilot-boats, and Taw-boats belonging to the Port, were at firſt founded and built, and conſtantly repaired and maintained, by that worthy Family, without any Aſſiſtance, but ſome ſmall Acknowledgments paid to them as Lords of the Manor. But by Length of Time, and Vio⯑lence of the Sea, the Quay was very much ſunk and impair'd, the Warp and Warp-houſe, by long Uſage, was gone to Decay, and the Boats for Piloting and Towing were much out of Repair, and the ſmall Duties and Acknowlegements to Sir Bour⯑chier ſinking, and being frequently unpaid; to remedy all theſe Evils, an Act paſſed Anno 1731, George II. for repairing, and keeping in Repair, and inlarging the Piers and Harbour, and for the Support of the Light and Light-houſe, the Warp and Warp-houſe, and the Pilot, and Towing-boats, as above-men⯑tioned: ſo that by this means the Harbour of Il⯑fordcomb is likely to continue the uſeful and conve⯑nient Port it has been for ſo many Years paſt, to the End of Time.

Antiquity tells us long Stories of the Danes land⯑ing on this Coaſt; of Hubba the Daniſh King being ſlain at Kennith Caſtle, between this Place and the [14] Mouth of the Taw and Towridge; and that the Place was called Hubbeſtow from his being buried there: but I could not hear either of this Caſtle, or Burial-place, or ſo much as the Ruins of them.

The Sea-coaſt in this Country runs a little farther Eaſt by North; but nothing of Moment is to be ſeen there, except Fiſhing-towns, and little Creeks, on which are Two Market-towns, viz. Combemer⯑ton and Porlock, till we came to Minehead.

Leaving the Coaſt in our Journey Southward, we came to the great River Ex or Iſca, which riſes in the Hills on the North Side of the County, and, like the Tamar, begins within Four or Five Miles of the Severn Sea. The Country it riſes in is called Exmore: Camden ſays it is a filthy, barren Ground; and indeed ſo it is: but as ſoon as the Ex comes off from the Moors and hilly Country, and deſcends into the lower Grounds, we found an Alteration; for then we ſaw Devonſhire in its other Countenance, culti⯑vated, populous and fruitful, and continuing ſo till we came to Tiverton.

Next to Exeter, this is the greateſt manufacture⯑ing Town in the County, and, of all the inland Towns, is likewiſe next to it in Wealth, and Num⯑ber of People; it ſtands on the River Ex, and has over it an old Stone Bridge, with another over the little River Loman, which immediately after falls into the Ex juſt below the Town. Antiquity ſays, be⯑fore thoſe Bridges were built, there were two Fords here, one thro' each River; and that the Town was from thence called Twyfordton, that is, the Town upon the two Fords; and ſo, by abbreviating the Sounds, Twy-for-ton, then Tiverton.

This Town has been a remarkable Sufferer by Fire; for in the Year 1598. April 3. it was conſum'd on a ſudden; Aug. 5. 1612, it was again burnt down; and July 5. 1731, another dreadful Fire deſtroyed there 200 of the beſt Houſes.

[15]An Act paſſed on this ſad Occaſion, Anno 1732, for the more eaſy rebuilding of the Town, and determining Differences on that Account; and it injoins, that the new-built Houſes ſhall be cover'd with Lead, Slate, or Tile, and not Thatch; that perilous Trades ſhall not be exerciſed in publick Streets; that no Stacks of Hay, Straw, Corn, &c. ſhall be erected at or near the publick Parts of the Town; that Fire-Engines may be bought by the Guardians of the Poor; that Houſes may be demoliſhed to ſtop any future Fire: that the Streets and Paſſages of the Town may be in⯑larged, and particular Houſes pulled down for that Purpoſe, with other uſeful Proviſions.

An Act alſo paſſed Anno 1733, for making a Chapel, built by the Subſcription of the Inhabitants of Tiver⯑ton, a perpetual Cure; and for providing a Main⯑tenance for the Miniſters who ſhall officiate in it; for, as the Preamble to the Act obſerves, the Pariſh Church was not near capacious enough to receive the Inhabitants of the Pariſh. The late Sir William Wyndham was a great Encourager and Promoter of this new Chapel at its firſt Erection.

But the Beauty of Tiverton is the Free-School, at the Eaſt Entrance into the Town, a noble Building, but a much nobler Foundation; it was erected by one Peter Blundel, a Clothier, and a Lover of Learn⯑ing, who uſed the Saying of William of Wickham to the King, when he founded the Royal School at Wincheſter, viz. ‘"That if he was not himſelf a Scholar, he would be the Occaſion of making more Scholars than any Scholar in England;"’ to which End he founded this School. He has endow'd it ſo liberally, that, I was told, the Schoolmaſter has at leaſt Sixty Pounds per Annum, beſides a very good Houſe to live in, and the Advantage of Scholars not on the Foundation; and that the Uſher has in Pro⯑portion. To this the generous Founder added Two Fellowſhips, and Two Scholarſhips, which he gave [16] the Maintenance for to Sydney College in Cambridge; and One Fellowſhip, and Two Scholarſhips, to Baliol College in Oxford; all which are appointed for the Scholars bred up in this School.

As this is the chief Nurſery of almoſt all the young Gentry of theſe Weſtern Parts, the Profit ariſing to the Maſter from Boarders, and the liberal Benefactions of the Parents, added to the Salary before-mention'd, render it a Preferment ſuitable to a Man of the beſt Parts and Learning; and as the Truſtees are Gentlemen of great Honour, it is generally diſpoſed of to the moſt worthy Candidate. Mr. Rayner preſided in it for many Years, with very great Applauſe, and dy'd about ^* Twelve Years ago. To him ſucceeded Mr. Smith; after him Mr. Jones; next Mr. Weſley, once Uſher of Weſt⯑minſter School, as noted for his poetical Performances, as his Brothers John and Charles are for their being at the Head of the new Sectariſts, who are called Methodiſts; and he dying Nov. 1739, is ſucceeded by Mr. Daddo. Thus hath it, in Twelve Years time, undergone Five different Regimens; and if it be conſider'd, that every Change introduces ſome Difference in the Method of Teaching and Diſci⯑pline, it will be no Surprize, that the School is ſome⯑thing ſunk in its former Reputation. The preſent Maſter is Fellow of Baliol College, Oxford, had his Education here, and from his great Abilities, and good Oeconomy, (in which laſt reſpect a great Com⯑plaint lay againſt his Predeceſſor) the School is like to retrieve its former flouriſhing Condition.

The great Number of Gentlemens Sons ſent hi⯑ther for their Education, as I have hinted, is no ſmall Advantage to the Town likewiſe; and this, join'd with the briſk Trade carried on here, renders it ſo flouriſhing, that notwithſtanding the dreadful Calamity it underwent by the Fire in 1731, which [17] almoſt totally conſumed it, it is already very elegantly rebuilt; and carries very few other Marks of this Devaſtation, than the Magnificence and Beauty of the new Structures.

As this is a manufacturing Country, we found the People here all fully imploy'd, and very few, if any, out of Work.

From this Town there is little belonging to Devon⯑ſhire but what has been ſpoken of, except what lies in the Road to Taunton, which we took next, where we meet with the River Columb, which riſes alſo in the utmoſt Limits of the County towards Somerſet⯑ſhire, and gives Name to ſo many Towns on its Banks, that it leaves no room to doubt of its own Name being right; ſuch are Columb-David's, Ufco⯑lumb, Columbſtock, and Columbton; the laſt is a Mar⯑ket-town, and they are all full of Manufacturers depending much on the Maſter-manufacturers of Tiverton.

Before we leave Devonſhire, it will not be amiſs to take Notice of Lundy Iſland, which, tho' 50 Miles from Devonſhire, North-weſtward, is much mote remote from any other Continent. 'Tis but Five Miles long, and Two broad; but ſo ſurround⯑ed with inacceſſible Rocks, that there is but one ſmall Entrance into it, where Two Men can ſcarce go abreaſt. Tho' this Iſland lies ſo far in the Sea, it has the Advantage of ſeveral Springs of freſh Water.

With the Town of Tiverton we leave the County of Devon, and entering Somerſetſhire, have really a View of a different Country from Devonſhire; for at Wellington, the firſt Town we came to in Somerſetſhire, tho' partly imployed in Manufacture⯑ing too, we were immediately ſurrounded with Beg⯑gars, to ſuch a Degree, that we had ſome Difficulty to keep them from under our Horſes Heels. I was [18] aſtoniſh'd at ſuch a Sight, in a Country where the People were ſo generally full of Work; for in Corn⯑wall, where there are hardly any Manufacturers, and abundance of Poor, we never found any like this.

Wellington is a low dirty Place, and is only re⯑markable for having been the Place of Reſidence of the Lord Chief Juſtice Popham, in the Reigns of Q. Elizabeth, and King James I. who was buried here. They talk much of one Salkeld, who was converted from Popery by King James I. and made Miniſter of this Place. He called himſelf, in Compliment to the King, The Royal Convert; who, in return, complimented him with the Title of the Learned Salkeld, which, by-the-bye, reflected no bad Com⯑pliment on himſelf, for having converted a learned Man.

The County of Somerſet joins to the North-eaſt Part of Devonſhire, and takes its Name from the Britiſh Word Gladyr Haf, which ſignifies Summer-Country, and ſo the Welſh call it in their Language to this Day. I touch'd only upon one Point of the County in my laſt, as I went Weſtward. The whole County is worth a more particular Account, than can be given within the Space of a Letter.

From Wellington we came to Taunton, leaving Blackdown Hills on our Right, and Ilminſter behind them Southward, a Market-town, fam'd for its very good Church, and a ſtately Monument erected in it to Nicolas Wadham, and Dorothy, his Wife, Founders of Wadham College, Oxon.

Near Taunton lies that rich Track of Ground, vulgarly called Taunton-dean. This large, wealthy, and very populous Town takes its Name from the River Tone, whereon it is ſituated. One of the chief Manufacturers here told us, That there was at that time ſo good a Trade in the Town, that they had eleven hundred Looms going for the Weaving of Sagathies, Duroys, and ſuch kind of Stuffs; and [19] that not one of thoſe Looms wanted Work: he added, That there was not a Child in the Town, or in the Villages round it, of above Five Years old, but, if it was not neglected by its Parents, and un⯑taught, could earn its own Bread. This was what I never met with in any Place in England, except at Colcheſter in Eſſex.

The Election of Members here, is by thoſe whom they call Pot-Walloners, that is to ſay, Every In⯑habitant, whether Houſe-keeper or Lodger, who dreſſes his own Victuals: to make out which, ſeve⯑ral Inmates or Lodgers will, ſome little time before the Election, bring out their Pots, and make Fires in the Street, and boil their Victuals in the Sight of their Neighbours, that their Votes may not be called in Queſtion.

There are Two large Pariſh Churches in this Town, and Two or Three Meeting-houſes, one of which is ſaid to be the largeſt in the County. The Inhabitants have been noted for Diſſenters principal⯑ly; for Taunton was always counted a Seminary for ſuch. They ſuffer'd much in the Duke of Monmouth's Rebellion, but paid King James home for the Cruel⯑ty exerciſed by Jefferies among them; for when the Prince of Orange arriv'd, the whole Town ran in to him, with ſo univerſal a Joy, that it was thought, if he had wanted it, he might have raiſed a little Army there, and in the adjacent Part of the Country.

There is a kind of College, or Academy, for the Diſſenters in this Town; and it is by far the greateſt Town in all this Part of the Country.

From Taunton we went North to take a View of the Coaſt. Exmore, of which mention was made above, where the River Ex riſes, lies in the Way, Part of it in this County, and extending to the Sea Side: it gives, indeed, but a melancholy View, be⯑ing a vaſt Track of barren and deſolate Lands; yet on the Coaſt there are ſome very good Sea-ports.

[20] Porlock, mentioned before, on the utmoſt Extent of the County, has but a ſmall Harbour, nor has it any thing of Trade.

But Minehead, the ſafeſt Harbour on this Side, is a fine Port: no Ship is ſo big, but it may come in; and no Weather ſo bad, but the Ships are ſafe when they are in; and they told me, that in the great Storm, Anno 1703, when the Ships were blown on Shore, wreck'd, and loſt, in every Harbour of the County, they ſuffer'd little or no Damage in this.

The Trade of this Town lies chiefly with Ireland, and this was for many Years the chief Port in theſe Parts, where Wool from Ireland was allowed to be imported; but that Liberty is ſince inlarged to ſeve⯑ral other Ports by Act of Parliament.

The Town is well built, is full of rich Merchants, and has ſome Trade alſo to Virginia, and the Weſt Indies. They correſpond much with the Merchants of Barnſtable and Briſtol, in their foreign Trade. What has greatly contributed to the Improvement of Minehead, was an Act paſſed in the 12th and 13th Year of the late King William's Reign, which was continued by an Act of the Tenth of the late Queen Anne, For Recovering, Securing, and keeping in Repair, the Harbour of Minehead. And now ſo lately as in the Seſſion 1737-8, another Act paſſed for further continuing the Terms and Powers of the Two former Acts, for the bringing to Effect the ſame laudable Purpoſes, in purſuance of which a new Head has been built, the Beach clear'd, and a great Pro⯑greſs made in the Piers and deſign'd Works.

From hence the Coaſt bears back Weſt to Watchet, a ſmall Port of late Years, tho' formerly much more conſiderable; for it had given Place to Mine⯑head, tho' now it is in a much better Condition than it uſed to be in; and this it owes to Two Acts of Parliament, one paſſed in the Sixth Year of the late Queen Anne, for repairing of its Quay and Har⯑bour, [21] and the other in the Tenth. But when the Works deſigned were near completed, it was found, that the Quay was built much too low, and not ex⯑tended to a ſufficient Length to preſerve the Town, and the Ships and Veſſels riding in the Harbour, from the Violence of the Sea: whereupon another Act paſſed in the Seventh of King George I. for continuing the Duties laid by the former Acts, and remedying the Inconveniencies before-mentioned.

It ſeems to me, that the Town of Minehead roſe out of the Decay of the Towns of Porlock and Watchet.

On this Coaſt are vaſt Quantities of Rock, or rather Pebbles, which the Sea, at low Water, leaves uncovered, from whence the neighbouring Inhabit⯑ants fetch them on Shore to a higher Ground, and burn them into Lime for dreſſing their Land; but it is more eſpecially uſeful in Building; for that no Cement whatſoever is more laſting for Jets d' Eau Heads, Piers, and other Maſonry that is to lie un⯑der Water; in which Poſition it runs up to a Stone as hard as Marble, and is ſcarce to be beaten abroad. The Cliffs are ſtored with Alabaſter, which, by the Waſh of the Sea, falls down, and is convey'd from hence to Briſtol, and other Places on this Shore, in great Quantity. Neither ſhould it be omitted, that the Inhabitants burn great Quantities of Sea⯑weed to ſupply the Glaſs-makers at Briſtol.

Walking on the Beach near Watchet, I diſcover'd among the large Gravel great Numbers of Stones, fluted in Imitation of the Shells of Fiſhes of all kinds: many of the flat kind are double, and curi⯑ouſly tallied one in another, which may, by a vio⯑lent Stroke, be ſeparated. How to account for the vaſt Variety to be found here of this Sport of Na⯑ture, I know not: ſome I have ſeen as broad as a Pewter-diſh, and again others no bigger than a Pep⯑per-corn; but in all of them the Flutings are regu⯑lar; [22] ſome like the Eſcallop, in Rays from a Centre, others like the Perriwinkle, in ſpiral Lines: in theſe and all other Forms, they lie here in great Plenty.

Quantock is a high Down in the Neighbourhood; from whence, beſides the two little Iſlands, called the Steep-Holmes, and the Flat-Holmes, and an ex⯑tenſive View of the Chanel, I had a fair and diſtinct Proſpect of the Welſh Coaſt for many Leagues in Length.

From hence the winding Shore brings us to Bridg⯑water. This is an antient and very conſiderable Town and Port; it ſtands at the Mouth of the Ri⯑ver Parrat, or Perrot, which comes from the South, after having received the River Tone from the Weſt, which is made navigable up to within a few Miles of Taunton, by a very fine new Chanel, cut at the Expence of the People of Taunton, and which, by the Navigation of it, is infinitely advantageous to that Town, and well worth all their Expence, firſt by bringing up Coals, which are brought from Swanzy in Wales by Sea to Bridgwater, and thence by Barges up this River to Taunton; next for bring⯑ing all heavy Goods and Merchandizes from Briſtol, ſuch as Iron, Lead, Oil, Wine, Hemp, Flax, Pitch, Tar, Grocery, Dye-ſtuffs, and the like.

This Town of Bridgwater is a populous, trade⯑ing Town, well-built, and as well inhabited, hav⯑ing many Families of good Faſhion dwelling in it, beſides Merchants. The famous Admiral Blake, who under the Commonwealth ſo much exalted the Glory of the Engliſh maritime Force, was a Native of this Town.

This Town was regularly fortified in the late Civil Wars, and ſuſtained more than one Siege. The Situation of it renders it eaſy to be fortified, the River and Haven taking one chief Part of the Circumference. Over the River, they have a very good Bridge of Stone; and the Tide riſes here, at [23] High-water, near Six Fathoms, and ſometimes flows in with ſuch Impetuoſity, that it comes Two Fa⯑thoms deep at a time; and when it does ſo, un⯑awares, it often occaſions great Damage to Ships, driving them foul of one another, and frequently overſets them. This ſudden Rage of the Tide is called the Boar, and is frequent in all the Rivers of this Chanel, eſpecially in the Severn; 'tis alſo known in the North, particularly in the Trent, and the Ouſe, at their Entrance into the Humber, at Briſtol, and in ſeveral other Places.

There is in Bridgwater, beſides a very large Church, a fine Meeting-houſe, built ſince the To⯑leration, in which 'tis remarkable, that they have an advanced Seat for the Mayor and Aldermen, when any of the Magiſtrates ſhall be of their Com⯑munion, as ſometimes has happened. Here alſo is a College, or private Academy, for the Diſſenters to breed up their preaching Youth.

From Bridgwater is a Road to Briſtol, which they call the Lower-way; the Upper-way, which is the more frequented Road, being over Mendip Hills. This Lower-way is not always paſſable, being ſub⯑ject to Floods, and dangerous Inundations. All this Part of the Country, viz. between Bridgwater and the Sea, and on Northward upon the Coaſt, lies low, and is wholly imployed in feeding of Black Cat⯑tle, which they bring out of the Weſt Part of De⯑von, and the neighbouring Borders of Cornwall, where the fineſt are bred; for as to thoſe few bred in theſe low Lands, they are very heavy, ſluggiſh, and un⯑ſhapely, and the Beef ſoft and ſpongy, ſuch as they ſeldom or never drive to London Markets. Indeed, they breed a great many Colts; but then they too muſt be tranſplanted very young, into a dry, healthy Soil; for 'tis very difficult to find a Horſe of their own Breed fit for any thing but a Drudge. The Moors, or Marſh-grounds, which are alſo imploy'd [24] in the ſame way, extend themſelves up the Rivers Perrot and Ivil, into the Heart of the Country; of which in its Place.

This low Part, between Bridgwater and Briſtol, ſuffered exceedingly in that terrible Inundation of the Sea, which was occaſioned by the great Storm, Anno 1703; and the Country-people have ſet up Marks upon their Houſes and Trees, with this Note upon them, Thus high the Waters came in the great Storm: Thus far the great Tide flowed up in the laſt violent Tempeſt; and the like.

In one Place they ſhewed us where a Ship was driven up upon the Shore, ſeveral hundred Yards from the ordinary High-water Mark, and left upon dry Land.

As the low Part is thus imployed in grazing and feeding Cattle, ſo all the reſt of this large extended Country is imployed in the Woollen Manufacture, and in the beſt and moſt profitable Part of it, viz.

In Taunton

The Serges, Druggets, &c. and ſeveral other kinds of Stuffs.

In Wells, Shep⯑ton, Glaſtenbury, &c.

Knitting of Stockens, principally for the Spaniſh Trade.

In Briſtol, and many Towns on the Somerſetſhire Side

Druggets, Cantaloons, and other Stuffs.

In Froom, Phi⯑lips-Norton, and all the Country bordering upon Wiltſhire

Fine Spaniſh Medley Cloths, eſpe⯑cially on that Part of the County from Wincanton, and Meer, to Warminſter, Bruton, Caſtlecary, Temple-comb, down to Gillingham and Shaftſbury, in Dorſetſhire.

[25]Theſe fine Spaniſh Medley Cloths are the mix'd colour'd Cloths, which all the Perſons of Faſhion in England wear. There are vaſt Quantities of theſe exported to all Parts of Europe, and it is ſo very conſiderable a Trade, and of ſo vaſt an Advantage to England, in maintaining and ſupporting ſo many poor Families, and making ſo many rich ones, that it is almoſt impoſſible to give a juſt Deſcription of it. The above Sketch, however, may ſerve as an In⯑troduction to it. But I ſhall add a little more con⯑cerning this County; and upon my entering into the North-weſt and Weſt Parts of Wiltſhire, where the Centre of this Prodigy of a Trade is, I ſhall ſum it all up together, and ſhew you the Extent of Land which it ſpreads itſelf upon, and ſo give you ſome Idea, as well of the vaſt Numbers of People who are ſuſtained, as of thoſe who are inriched by it.

But I muſt firſt go back a little while into Somer⯑ſetſhire: The Northern Part of the County I did not viſit in this Journey, which, as I hinted before, is only a Return from my long Travel to the Land's-end. In omitting this Part, I, of courſe, leave the two Cities of Briſtol and Bath, and that high Part of the County called Mendip-hill, to my next Weſtern Journey, which will include all the Counties due Weſt from London; for theſe now ſpoken of, tho' ordinarily called the Weſt-country, are rather North-weſt than Weſt.

In that Part of the Country which lies Southward of Taunton and Bridgwater, is Langport, a well-frequented Market-town, on the River Parr, which is navigable for Barges to Briſtol, and occaſions a good Trade here. Eels are exceeding plentiful and cheap here. Near this Place General Fairfax beat up the diſcontented Goring's Quarters, and intirely defeated him.

[26] South Petherton is a Market-town on the ſame River, famous, of old, for the Place of King Ina, but now of no other Note than an annual Fair, which laſts Five Days, in June.

From hence you come to Yeovil, which I have already mentioned in a former Letter.

Ivelcheſter is a Borough Town, and, as its Ruins ſhew, was formerly very large, and incompaſs'd with a double Wall, and had Four Churches. It has now a good Bridge over the Ivel. It was here that, on the 3d of May 1740, Mrs. Elizabeth Branch, and her Daughter, Miſs Betty Branch, were executed for a moſt barbarous Murder committed on the Body of a Servant Girl, by one continued Series of Seven Hours beating and whipping, which with the Behaviour of the Criminals, was of ſo cruel and atrocious a Nature, that it ſhocked the whole King⯑dom. The Particulars are too well known to need any farther Mention here, had we Room, which we have not.

Somerton is a good Market-town, whence, ſome ſay, the Country takes its Name. It was antiently very noted, and had a ſtrong Caſtle, in which John King of France was Priſoner. Here is a Fair which holds from Palm-Sunday to the Middle of June.

Milbourn lies on the Edge of Dorſetſhire, and is very antient; but has neither Market, nor Fair.

Camalet is a noted Place, ſituated on the higheſt Ground in this County, on the Edge of Dorſetſhire: its vulgar Name is Cadbury-caſtle, from the Village of North-Cadbury, wherein it ſtands. Hereabouts riſe the Rivers of Somerſetſhire, which run into the Severn Sea Weſtward, and that in Dorſet, which goes Eaſtward, thro' Sturminſter, into the Southern Ocean. It is a noble Fortification of the Romans. The Proſpect is woody, and very pleaſant; here-and-there lofty and ſteep Hillocks. Roman Coins, [27] in great Plenty, have been found here, and in all the Country round. The Entrance is guarded with Six or Seven Ditches. On the North-ſide, in the fourth Ditch, is a never failing Spring, called King Arthur's Well. Over it they have dug up ſquare Stones, Door-jambs with Hinges, and ſay there are ſubterraneous Vaults thereabout. The Church and Tower of Cadbury is ſmall, but neatly built of Stone.

At Wincaunton, an Urn was lately found full of Roman Money. Half a Peck of the ſame Coin was diſcovered in incloſing Ground, toward Beacon-aſh, a little above Sutton; as alſo Patera's, a Knife, and other Antiquities, now in Lord Winchelſca's Cuſtody: in particular, at Long-leat, in Lord Weymouth's Library, a Piece of Lead weighing 50 Pounds, One Foot Nine Inches long, Two Inches thick, Three and an half broad, found in Lord Fitzharding's Grounds near Bruton in Somerſetſhire, was diſcovered by digging a Hole to ſet a Gate-poſt in, with a legible Inſcription.

The Road from hence to Glaſtenbury, is over Rocks and Heads of Rivers. But that is alleviated by the many natural Curioſities ſuch Places afford.

Kyneton Village, for half a Mile together, is na⯑turally paved with one ſmooth broad Rock, the whole Length of the Road; ſo that it looks like Ice.

Croſſing the Foſſe Road at Lyteford, you enter a flat mooriſh Country, full of artificial Cuts and Drains. The Aſcent to the Torr, which overhangs the Town of Glaſtenbury, is very difficult. Upon a narrow Creſt of the Torr, which is much the higheſt; the Abbot built a Church to St. Michael, of good ſquare Stone. The Tower is left, tho' ruinous, and is an excellent Sea-mark. It probably coſt more to raiſe the Stone to this Height, than to erect the Building. Half way up is a Spring: it is [28] certainly higher than any Ground within Ten Miles of the Place. In the Times of Superſtition this great Monaſtery held the firſt Place for Reputa⯑tion of Sanctity.

The Inhabitants will have it, that King Arthur was buried here, and, as a Proof thereof, that his Coffin had been found in this Place; and alſo, that Joſeph of Arimathea had been here, and that when he had fixed his Staff in the Ground, which was on Chriſtmas-day, it immediately took Root, budded, put forth White-thorn Leaves, and the next Day was in full Bloſſom, white as a Sheet; and that the Plant is preſerved, and blows every Chriſtmas-day, as at firſt, to this very Time.

I believe the Miracle amounts to no more than this; viz. That a kind of White-thorn grows here⯑about, which, in a mild Winter, puts forth ſome Bloſſom about Chriſtmas; and I doubt not, but ſome of the ſame Kind may be found at other Places, if any Obſervations were made of it. But this Place is remarkable for many other marvellous Stories, recorded by the Monks, who formerly poſſeſſed it.

As to the Burial of King Arthur, Mr. Camden makes no doubt of it, and gives us from Giraldus Cambrenſis an Account how King Henry II. cauſed Search to be made for his Tomb, and before the Workmen had dug Seven Feet deep, they came to a great Stone, having a Croſs of Lead on the Inſide of it, and the ſubſequent Letters or Inſcription upon it, and in the following rude Character; which the ſaid Giraldus Cambrenſis, Mr. Camden ſays, was an Eye-witneſs of, as well as of a Coffin of hollow'd Oak, which they found by digging Nine Feet deeper than the Inſcription, wherein were depoſited the Bones of that great Prince. The Inſcription is as follows: [29]

But to leave theſe more diſputable Points for Mat⯑ters of greater Certainty: it is not doubted but King Ina built the Church of Glaſtenbury, as one of the moſt antient, ſo the moſt wealthy and magni⯑ficent, loaded with Revenues by the Saxon, and per⯑haps the Britiſh Monarchs. The Abbot lived in little leſs State than the Royal Donors, his Revenue [30] amounting to 40,000l. annually. He could from the Torr ſee a vaſt Track of this rich Land in his own Poſſeſſion, and Seven Parks well ſtored with Deer belonging to the Monaſtery. 'Tis walled round, and imbattled like a Town, a Mile in Compaſs.

When I was laſt at Glaſtenbury, there were mag⯑nificent Ruins; but, within a few Years, a Preſby⯑terian Tenant had made more barbarous Havock there, than had been ſince the Diſſolution; for every Week a Pillar, a Buttreſs, a Window-jamb, or an Angle of fine hewn Stone, was ſold to the beſt Bidder. And they were actually ſtripping St. Joſeph's Chapel for that Purpoſe, and the ſquared Stones were laid up by Lots in the Abbot's Kitchen. The reſt goes to paving Yards and Stalls for Cattle, or to the Highway. So much Dread indeed have the People here of Founders Curſes, that they are afraid to make uſe of the Materials for Dwelling-houſes; and are full of Stories of ſad Accidents and Judgments, that have fallen upon ſuch as have; but venture it for the Highways, for a Town-houſe, and even for Barns and Stables; ſo that, as one obſerves, where few are ſo hardy as to apply them to their par⯑ticular or perſonal Uſe, a publick Building ſhall be erected, where all come in for their Snack.

The Abbot's Lodging was a fine Stone Building, but could not content the juſt-mentioned Tenant, who pulled it down, and out of it built a new Houſe, abſurdly ſetting up the Arms and Cognizances of the great Saxon Kings and Princes, who were Founders, and of the Abbots, over his own Doors and Windows. Nothing is left intire, but the Kitchen, a judicious Piece of Architecture. But Tradition ſays, that this is but a modern Building; for the Story goes, That Whiting, the laſt Abbot, being dealt with by Henry VIII. and his Cormorants, for a Surrender, and bravely refuſing to join in the Sacri⯑lege, [31] that Prince proceeded to Menaces, and told him, he ‘"would burn his Kitchen about his Ears."’ To which he returned Anſwer, ‘"That he would build ſuch an one as all the Timber in the Foreſt ſhould not burn."’ And accordingly, as 'tis ſaid, built this in Defiance, which is all of firm Stone, Walls and Roof, having nothing combuſtible in it. But what neither Flattery nor Menaces could effect, Tyranny and Murder brought about. For the Abbot was hanged on St. Michael's Tower, juſt now mentioned, on the Top of the high Hill, called The Torr, thereby accompliſhing a Prophecy, (as the Townſmen call it; but rather occaſioning a Saying ſince ſpread abroad) That a Whiting ſhould ſwim over Glaſtenbury Torr.

The Church was large and magnificent; the Walls of the Choir are ſtanding, 25 Fathom long, and 12 broad. There is one Jamb at the Eaſt-end of the High Altar left.

Hereabout were buried King Edgar, and many of the Saxon Monarchs, whoſe noble Aſhes ought to have protected the Whole.

Two Pillars of the great Middle Tower are left, next the Choir. On the North-ſide is St. Mary's Chapel, as they told me; the Roof beat down by Violence, and a mean wooden one in its Place, thatched with Stubble, to make it ſerve as a Stable. The Manger lies upon the Altar and Nich, where they put the Holy-Water. St. Edgar's Chapel is oppoſite to it; but there is not much left of it be⯑ſide the Foundations. The preſent Work is 44 Paces long, 36 wide without. The Roof is chiefly wanting. Two little Turrets are at the Corners of the Weſt-end, and Two more at the Interval of Four Windows from thence, which ſeem to indicate the Space of Ground the firſt Chapel was built on: the reſt between it and the Church was a kind of Antechapel. Underneath was a Vault, now full of [32] Water, the Floor of the Chapel being beaten down into it: it was wrought with great Stones.

Here was a capacious Receptacle of the Dead. They have taken up many leaden Coffins, and melted them into Ciſterns.

The Roof of the Chapel was finely arched with Ribwork of Stone. The Sides of the Walls are full of ſmall Pillars of Suſſex Marble, as likewiſe the whole Church, which was a mean way of Orna⯑menting in thoſe Times: they are moſtly beaten down. Between them the Walls are painted with Pictures of Saints, as ſtill eaſily ſeen. All the Walls are overgrown with Ivy, which is the only thing here in a flouriſhing Condition; every thing elſe preſenting a moſt melancholy, tho' venerable Aſpect. On the South-ſide the Cloiſters was the great Hall.

The Townſmen bought the Stones of the Vaults underneath to build a ſorry Market-houſe, not diſ⯑cerning the Benefit accruing to the Town from the great Concourſe of Strangers purpoſely to ſee this Abbey, which is now its greateſt Trade, as formerly its only Support: for 'tis in a moſt miſerable decaying Condition, as wholly cut off from the large Re⯑venues ſpent among them.

There are many other Foundations of the Build⯑ings left in the great Area; but in the preſent Hands will ſoon be rooted up, and the very Footſteps of them effaced, which ſo many Ages had been erecting.

The Abbot's Hall, I have been told, was curiouſly wainſcotted with Oak, and painted with Coats of Arms in every Panel. The Morter of theſe Build⯑ings is very good, and great Rocks of the Roof of the Church lie upon the Ground, chiefly conſiſting of Rubble-ſtone untouched by the fanatical De⯑ſtroyers, who chiefly work on the hewn Stone of the Outſide, till a whole Wall falls, when under⯑mined a little.

[33]Throughout the Town are the tattered Remains of Doors, Windows, Baſes, Capitals of Pillars, &c. brought from the Abbey, and put into every poor Cottage.

In the Town are Two Churches; the upper a handſome Fabrick with a fine Tower of good De⯑ſign, adorned with Figures in Niches. The George Inn is an old Stone Building, called the Abbot's Inn, where chiefly the Pilgrims were lodged, who came ſtrolling hither, and idling their Time away for Sanctity. A Coat of Arms of the Kings of Eng⯑land, ſupported by a Lion and a Bull, is over the Gate, with many Croſſes. There was a Bed of large Timber, with imboſſed gilt Panels, which ſeemed to have been the Abbot's.

Four Miles from Glaſtenbury, lies the little City of Wells, where is one of the neateſt Cathedrals in England; particularly the Weſt Front of it, which is a complete Draught of Imagery, as well as very antient.

The Cloſe, or Part of the City where the Biſhop's Palace is, is very properly called ſo; for it is walled in, and locked up like a little Fortification, and has a Ditch round it. The dignified Clergy live in the Inſide of it, and the Prebendaries and Canons have very agreeable Dwellings. Here are no leſs than 27 Prebendaries, and 19 Canons, beſides a Dean, a Chancellor, a Precentor, and Three Archdeacons; a Number which very few Cathedrals in England have beſides.

The County is the Dioceſe, and contains 388 Pariſhes, and the Archdeaconries are of Wells, Bath, and Taunton.

The City lies juſt at the Foot of the Mountains called Mendip-hills, and is built on a ſtony Foun⯑dation. Its Manufacture is chiefly of Stockens, as has been ſaid; 'tis well-built, and populous.

[34]Near this City, and juſt under the Hills, is the famous Wokey Hole, the chief Curioſity of which is frequently found in all ſuch ſubterraneous Caverns; that the Water, dropping from the Roof of the Vault, petrifies and hangs in long Pieces like Icicles, as if it would, in Time, turn into a Column to ſupport the Arch.

Not far from hence is Sedgmore, a watry ſplaſhy Place, and infamous for the Defeat of the Duke of Monmouth.

In the low Country, on the other Side Mendip Hills, lies Chedder, a Village pleaſantly ſituated under the very Ridge of the Mountains: before the Village is a large Green, or Common, on which all the Cows belonging to the Town feed: the Ground is exceeding rich, and as the Inhabitants are Cow-keepers, they take care to maintain the Goodneſs of the Soil, by agreeing to lay on large Quantities of Dung for manuring and inriching the Land.

Several Perſons frequently, here mix their Milk together, which often weighs a hundred Weight, ſometimes more; and is ſo excellent, that it is often ſold from Six-pence to Eight-pence per Pound, when the Cheſhire Cheeſe is ſold but from Two-pence to Two-pence Half-penny.

Here is a deep frightful Chaſm in the Mountain, in the Hollow of which the Road goes toward Briſtol; and out of the ſame Hollow ſprings a little Stream, which is ſo rapid, that it is ſaid to drive 12 Mills within a Quarter of a Mile of the Spring; but it muſt be ſuppoſed to fetch ſome winding Reaches in the Way; otherwiſe there would not be room for 12 Mills to ſtand, and have a ſufficient Head of Water to each, within ſo ſmall a Space of Ground. The Water of this Spring grows quickly into a River, and runs down into the Marſhes, and joins another little River called Axe, about Axbridge, and thence into the Briſtol Chanel, or Severn Sea.

[35]I muſt now turn Eaſt, and South-eaſt; for I re⯑ſolved not to go up the Hills of Mendip at all, this Journey; leaving that Part to another Tour, when I ſhall give an Account of theſe Mountains, as alſo of the Cities of Bath and Briſtol, to which they are very near, in one Letter.

I come now to that Part of the County which joins to Wiltſhire, which I reſerved in particular to this Place, in order to give ſome Account of the Broad-cloth Manufacture, which I ſeveral times mentioned before, and which is carried on here, to ſuch a Degree, as to deſerve a Place in all the De⯑ſcriptions or Hiſtories which ſhall be given of this Country.

As the Eaſt and South Parts of Wiltſhire are all hilly, ſpreading themſelves far and wide in Plains, and graſſy Downs, for breeding and feeding vaſt Flocks of Sheep; and as the Weſt and North Parts of Somerſetſhire are, on the contrary, low and marſhy, or mooriſh, for feeding and breeding of Black Cattle and Horſes, or for Lead Mines, &c. ſo all the South-weſt Part of Wiltſhire, and the Eaſt Part of Somerſetſhire, are low and flat, being a rich, incloſed Country, full of Rivers and Towns, and infinitely populous, inſomuch that ſome of the Market-towns are equal to Cities in Bigneſs, and ſuperior to many of them in Numbers of People.

This low flat Country contains Part of the Three Counties, of Somerſet, Wilts, and Glouceſter; and that the Extent of it may be the eaſier underſtood by thoſe who know any thing of the Situation of the Country, it reaches from Cirenceſter in the North, to Sherburn on the Edge of Dorſetſhire South, and from the Devizes Eaſt, to Briſtol Weſt, which may take in about 50 Miles in Length where longeſt, and 20 in Breadth where narroweſt.

In this Extent of Country, we have the following Market-towns, which are principally imployed in [36] the Clothing Trade, that is to ſay, in that Part of it, which I am now ſpeaking of, namely, fine Medley, or mixed Cloths, ſuch as are uſually worn in England by the better Sort of People; and alſo, exported in great Quantities to Holland, Hamburgh, Sweden, Denmark, Spain, Italy, &c. The prin⯑cipal Clothing Towns in this Part of the Country, are theſe,

Somerſetſhire,

Frome, Pentford, Philip's-Norton, Bruton, Shepton-Mallet, Caſtle-Carey, and Wincaunton.

Wiltſhire,

Malmsbury, Caſtlecomb, Chippenham, Caln, Devizes, Bradford, Tru⯑bridge, Weſtbury, Warminſter, Mere.

Dorſetſhire,

Gillingham, Shaftsbury, Bemiſter, and Bere, Sturminſter, Shire⯑born.

Glouceſter⯑ſhire,

Cirenceſter, Tetbury, Marſhfield, Minchinghampton, and Fairford.

Theſe Towns, as they ſtand thin, and at conſi⯑derable Diſtance from one another, (for, except the Two Towns of Bradford and Trubridge, the others ſtand at an unuſual Diſtance) are interſperſed with a very great Number of Villages, Hamlets, and ſcat⯑tered Houſes, in which, generally ſpeaking, the ſpinning Work of all this Manufacture is performed by the poor People; the Maſter Clothiers, who generally live in the greater Towns, ſending out the Wool weekly to their Houſes, by their Servants and Horſes, and at the ſame time bringing back the Yarn that they have ſpun and finiſhed, which then is fitted for the Loom.

The increaſing and flouriſhing Circumſtances of this Trade are happily viſible by the great Concourſe of People to, and Increaſe of Buildings and Inhabit⯑ants [37] in, theſe principal Clothing Towns, where this Trade is carried on, and in the Wealth of the Clo⯑thiers. The Town of Frome, or, as it is written in our Maps, Frome-Sellwood, is a Specimen of this, which is ſo prodigiouſly increaſed within theſe laſt 30 or 40 Years, that they have built a new Church, and ſo many new Streets of Houſes, and theſe Houſes are ſo full of Inhabitants, that Frome is now reckoned to have more Inhabitants in it, than the City of Bath; and ſome ſay, than Saliſbury; and if their Trade continues to increaſe in like manner for a few Years more, it is very likely to become one of the greateſt and wealthieſt inland Towns in England.

Its Trade is wholly Clothing, and the Cloths they make are, generally ſpeaking, all convey'd to London: where Blackwell-hall is their Market; and, if we may believe common Fame, there are above 10,000 People in Frome now, more than lived in it 30 Years ago; and yet it was a conſiderable Town then.

Here are alſo ſeveral large Meeting-houſes, as well as Churches, as there are, generally, in all the ma⯑nufacturing trading Towns in England, eſpecially in the Weſtern Counties.

The Devizes is, next to Frome, a large and im⯑portant Town, and full of wealthy Clothiers; but it has lately run pretty much into the Drugget-making Trade; a Buſineſs, which has made ſome Invaſion upon that of the Broad-cloth, great Quan⯑tities of Druggets being worn in, as well as exported from England, inſtead of Broad-cloth; but this is much the ſame as to the Trade ſtill; for ſince it is all a Woolen Manufacture, and the Druggets may properly be called Cloth, tho' narrow, and of a different Make, ſo the Makers are all called Clothiers.

The River Avon, a noble and large freſh River, branching itſelf into many Parts, and receiving almoſt [38] all the Rivers on that Side of the Hills, waters this whole fruitful Vale; and the Water of this River ſeems particularly qualified for dying the beſt Colours, and for Fulling and Dreſſing the Cloth, ſo that the Clothiers generally plant themſelves upon this River, but eſpecially the Dyers, as at Trubridge and Brad⯑ford, which are the Two moſt eminent Clothing Towns in that Part of the Vale, for the Making fine Spaniſh Cloths, and for the niceſt Mixtures.

From theſe Towns, South to Weſtbury and War⯑minſter, the ſame Trade continues, and the fineſt Medley Spaniſh Cloths in the whole World are made in this Part. They told me at Bradford, that it was no extraordinary thing to have Clothiers thereabout worth from 10,000 to 40,000l. a Man; and many of the Gentry in thoſe Counties have been originally raiſed from this truly noble Manufacture.

If I may ſpeak here from the Authority of the an⯑tient Inhabitants of the Place, who have been curious Obſervers upon this Subject, the Country which I have now deſcribed, as principally imployed in, and maintained by this Prodigy of a Trade, contains 2,330,000 Acres of Land, and has in it 788 Pariſhes, and 374,000 People. It is true, that this is all Gueſs⯑work; but I muſt confeſs myſelf very willing to be⯑lieve, that the Reckoning is far ſhort of the Account; for this Part is exceeding large and populous.

It may be worth Inquiry, how the Manufacturers in ſo vaſt a Conſumption of the Wool, as ſuch a Trade muſt take up, can be ſupplied with Wool for their Trade; and indeed it would be ſomething ſtrange, if the Anſwer were not at hand.

1. We may reaſonably conclude, that this Manu⯑facture was at firſt ſeated in this County, or, as we may ſay, originally planted itſelf here, becauſe of the infinite Numbers of Sheep, which were always up⯑on the Downs and Plains of Dorſet, Wilts, and Hampſhire, all adjoining. This, no doubt, induced [39] the firſt Planters of the Clothing Manufacture to make Choice of this delightful Vale in the Neigh⯑bourhood of thoſe Plains, which afforded ſuch im⯑menſe Funds of Wool for the carrying on their Works. Thus the Manufacture of white Cloth was planted in Stroud-water in Glouceſterſhire, for the ſake of the excellent Water there for the Dying Scarlets, and all Colours that are dyed in Grain, which are better done there, than in any other Place of England, ſome Towns near London excepted. Hence therefore we firſt obſerve, they are ſupplied yearly with the Fleeces of Two or Three Millions of Sheep.

2. But as the Number of Sheep fed on theſe Downs is leſſened, rather than increaſed, becauſe of ſo many thouſand Acres of the Carpet Ground being of late Years converted into Tillage, and ſowed with ^* Wheat; and at the ſame time the Manufacture pro⯑digiouſly increaſing; the Manufacturers applied to other Parts for a Supply, and hence began the Influx of North Country Wool from the Counties of Northampton, Leiceſter and Lincoln, the Centre and Markets of which Trade are about Tetbury and Cirenceſter, where ſeveral hundred Packs are ſold every Week, to ſupply this prodigious Conſumption.

3. From London they have great Quantities of Wool, which is generally called Kentiſh Wool, in the Fleece, which is brought up from thence by the Farmers, ſince the late ſevere Acts againſt their Selling it within a certain Number of Miles of the Sea; alſo Fell-wool for the Combers, bought of the Wool-ſtaplers in Barnaby-ſtreet, and ſent back by the Carriers which bring up the Cloths to Market.

4. They have alſo, ſometimes, large Quantities of Iriſh Wool by the way of Briſtol, or of Minehead in [40] Somerſetſhire; but this is uncertain, and only on extraordinary Occaſions. I omit the Spaniſh Wool, as being an Article by itſelf.

Thus, as thoſe who ſee the almoſt countleſs Num⯑bers of Sheep on the Downs and Plains, and the great Quantities of Wool brought to the Markets of Tetbury, and other Towns, as well as what are ſent down from London into this ſingle Vale, would wonder how it was poſſible ſo much Wool could be conſumed, manufactured, and wrought up; ſo, on the other hand, thoſe that ſee what Numbers of People are imployed, and what vaſt Quantities of Goods are made, in this Part of England, would wonder how the Nation ſhould be able to ſupply them with Wool.

And yet, notwithſtanding the whole Country is thus buſy'd in the Broad-cloth Manufacture, I muſt not omit to mention, that here is a very great Application to another Branch or two of Trade, viz. The ſupplying the City of London with Proviſions: Tho' it is true, that the general Imployment of the People in all this County, is in the Woollen Manu⯑facture; yet, as the Spinning is generally the Work of the Women and Children, and the Land is here exceeding rich and fertile, ſo it cannot be ſup⯑poſed, but that here are Farmers in great Numbers, whoſe Buſineſs it is to cultivate the Land, and ſup⯑ply the reſt of the Inhabitants with Proviſions; and this they do ſo well, that notwithſtanding the County is exceeding populous, yet Proviſions of all Sorts are cheap, the Quantity very great, and a conſiderable Overplus ſent every Day to London.

All the lower Part of this County, and alſo of Glouceſterſhire adjoining, is full of large feeding Farms, which we call Dairies; and the Cheeſe they make is excellent, and is eaten newer than that from Cheſhire. Of this a vaſt Quantity is every Week ſent up to London, where, tho' it is called Glouceſter⯑ſhire [41] Cheeſe, yet the greateſt Part of it comes from Wiltſhire; the Glouceſterſhire Cheeſe being more generally carried to Briſtol and Bath, where a very great Quantity is conſumed, as well by the Inhabit⯑ants of theſe two populous Cities, as in Exportation to our Weſt-India Colonies, and other Places; whereas this Wiltſhire Cheeſe is carried to the River of Thames, which runs thro' Part of the County, by Land-carriage, and ſo by Barges to London.

Again, in the Spring of the Year, they make a vaſt Quantity of that we call Green or New Cheeſe, which is a thin and very ſoft Cheeſe, reſembling Cream Cheeſes, but ſomewhat thicker. Theſe are ſo univerſally liked in London, that all the low rich Lands of this County are hardly enough to ſupply the Market; but then this holds for little more than the Two firſt Summer Months of the Year.

Beſides this, the Farmers in Wiltſhire, and the Part of Glouceſterſhire adjoining, ſend a very great Quan⯑tity of Bacon up to London, which is eſteemed the beſt Bacon in England, Hampſhire only excepted. This Bacon is raiſed here, by their great Dairies, as the Hogs are fed with the vaſt Quantities of Whey, and ſkimmed Milk, which the Farmers muſt otherwiſe have thrown away.

But this is not all; for as the North Part of Wilt⯑ſhire, as well the Downs as the Vales, border upon the River Thames, and in ſome Places come up even to the Banks of it, ſo moſt of that Part of the County being arable Land, they ſow a very great Quantity of Barley, which is carried to the Markets at Abingdon, at Faringdon, and ſuch Places, where it is made into Malt, and carried to London. This imploys all the Hill-country from above Malmſbury to Marlborough, and on the Side of the Vale of White-horſe, as 'tis called, which is in Berkſhire, and the Hills adjoining; a Track of fertile Ground, which furniſhes a prodigious Quantity of Barley.

[42]Thus Wiltſhire helps to ſupply London with Cheeſe, Bacon, and Malt, Three very conſiderable Articles, beſides that vaſt Manufacture of fine Spaniſh Cloths, of which I have ſaid ſo much; and I may without Partiality ſay, that it is thereby rendered one of the moſt important Counties in England to the publick Wealth of the Kingdom. The bare Product is in itſelf prodigiouſly great; the Downs are an inex⯑hauſted Store-houſe of Wool, and of Corn; and the Valley, or low Part of it, is the like for Cheeſe and Bacon.

One Thing here is worth while to mention, for the Obſervation of thoſe Counties in England, where they are not yet arrived to that Perfection in Huſ⯑bandry, as in this County; and I have purpoſely reſerved it to this Place; and that is, The Downs or Plains, which tho' generally called Saliſbury Plain, yet extend themſelves into the Counties of South⯑ampton, Wilts, and Dorſet, were formerly wholly taken up with Sheep, as being thought incapable of producing Grain, but now are made to yield moſt plentiful Crops, by folding their Sheep upon the plough'd Lands, removing the Fold every Night to a freſh Place, till the whole Fallow has been folded on. This alone has made theſe Lands, which in them⯑ſelves are poor, and, in ſome Places, ſo ſhallow as that the Earth is not ſix Inches deep over the ſolid Chalk, able to bear as good Wheat, as any of the richer Lands in the Vales, tho' not altogether in ſuch great Quantities: And were it not for this Improve⯑ment, the Product would hardly compenſate the Ploughman's Labour; for many of theſe Lands lie up ſuch high Hills, ſo remote from the Farmers Houſes, which are always in the Valleys, that it would be very difficult to carry up their Dung to manure them.

If this way of folding Sheep upon the Fallows and ploughed Lands were practiſed in ſome other Parts [43] of Britain, and eſpecially in Scotland, it would effectually improve the waſte Lands, which now are uſeleſs and uncultivated, and turn both Sheep and Lands to a better Account than was ever yet known among them. In Wiltſhire it appears to be ſo, very ſignificantly; for if a Farmer has a Thouſand Sheep, and no Fallows to fold them on, his Neighbours will give him Ten Shillings a Night for every Thouſand.

But as I have not mentioned theſe Clothing Towns other than as they contribute to that Trade, I ſhall now proceed to ſay ſomething of the Towns them⯑ſelves, except thoſe in Glouceſterſhire; of which I ſhall ſpeak in my next Letter, as I fall down Weſtward.

Shipton-Mallet, Caſtle Carey, Wincaunton, and Bruton, lie to the Southward of Wells, and have nothing remarkable in them except the laſt, which lies on the River Brews. It has a fair Church, a good Free-ſchool, and a ſtately Alms-houſe, the Ruins of a Priory, and beſide the Clothing-trade, is famous for Stockens.

Frome, and Philips Norton, lie Eaſt of Somerſet⯑ſhire, upon the Borders of Wilts. The firſt is near the Foreſt of Selwood, and I have already mentioned its prodigious Increaſe of late Years. The laſt is a very good Market-town, and has Two annual Fairs, one reputed, for a One-day Fair, as great as any in England.

Bensford is a ſmall Market-town, and lies North-weſt toward Briſtol.

Malmſbury is a very antient Town, and, 'tis ſaid, was built by a Britiſh Prince, called Caer Bladdon. It was formerly defended by Walls, and a large ſtrong Caſtle, which was razed afterward, to inlarge the Abbey, which was very famous, and the greateſt in Wiltſhire: the Abbot ſat in Parliament. King Athelſtane was buried here, and they ſtill ſhew [44] his Tomb here. Vaſt Piles of Buildings were pulled down at the Diſſolution, but the Church of the Abbey was ſaved, a great Part of which ſtill remains, and is uſed as the Pariſh Church. It is a Corporation governed by a Juſtice, who is an annual Magiſtrate, and called The Alderman. It has a good Market weekly. The Town is neat, and lies on the River Avon. It is alſo famous for the Birth-place of William of Malmſbury, the Hiſtorian; and of that great Scholar, Philoſopher, and Mathematician, Hobbes; and of divers other very great and re⯑markable Men.

Near this Town, Southward, on the ſame River, lies the Village of Dantſey, which, tho' but an ob⯑ſcure Place, has given Title of Honour to many eminent Perſons, and among the reſt, to Henry Danvers, created Baron of this Place by King James I. tho' afterwards made Earl of Danby. He had diſtin⯑guiſhed himſelf in Queen Elizabeth's Iriſh Wars, was as good as great, and died with Glory; but his Brother and Heir, having ſat, ungratefully, a Judge on that very King who made his Brother Earl, was, at the Reſtoration, attainted of High Treaſon; and this his Manor of Dantſey given to James then Duke of York, who ſettled it in Dowry on his ſecond Conſort. On his Abdication, it became a ſecond time forfeited, and King William conferred it on Charles Lord Mordaunt, late Earl of Peter⯑borough and Monmouth, in whoſe Family it ſtill remains. But as there are ſome other Things more than ordinarily particular, relating to this Manor, I ſhall inlarge a little upon it.

The whole Pariſh of Dantſey conſiſts of this Manor only, and not a Foot of Ground in it be⯑longs to any other Perſon: it is altogether Paſture, and indeed very rich. The Inhabitants, who are all Tenants of the Manor, make moſt excellent Cheeſe, not at all inferior to that of Chedder, which is the [45] only Commodity in the Place; for the late Lord would not permit the Grounds to be ploughed up; and, I believe, there is not an Acre in the Pariſh of arable Land, tho' the Tenants have offered a conſiderable Advance of Rent, for Liberty to break up the Ground, which indeed ſeems to want it, and would be much better'd by the Plough; nor would his Lordſhip, for ſome Years before his Death, renew a Life upon it, either by Leaſe or Copyhold, except as many of the laſt, as would keep up the Homage, and the Rights of the Manor: and the Reaſon of this was, not only to get a clear Rack-rent Eſtate in it, but to prevent the Cheats and Impoſitions which the Copyhold Tenants of the Manor put upon their Lord; for as every Widow has her Life in her Huſband's Copyhold after his Death, if ſhe continues ſole and continent, 'tis a very common thing there for an old Man, on his Death-bed, to marry a young Woman, who privately contracts to give Part of the Profits of the Copyhold, or ſome Conſideration for it, to the Huſband's Relations, and not ſeldom ſelects, for a Bedfellow for herſelf, one of her favourite Men-ſervants.

The Abuſe which accrued from granting Leaſes on Lives is this, That whereas a Perſon takes a Leaſe for Three Lives, viz. his own, his Wife's, and his Son John's; to defraud the Lord of the Manor, he names all his Sons John; ſo that, as long as any of the Sons live, John in the Leaſe never dies.

By theſe Frauds, the Earl, who was none of the beſt Oeconomiſts, and lived remote from this Place, ſuffered conſiderably, tho' he could not find out how; but frequently complained, That his Leſſees, and his Copyhold-Widows, were very long lived; and, in an humorous way, uſed to recommend his Manor of Dantſey to all ſuch as were apprehenſive of dying.

[46]As all in the Pariſh were his Tenants, and had an Intereſt in the Fraud, they combined againſt him, ſo that he could get no Intelligence of it: and tho' his Lordſhip enjoyed the Manor ever ſince the Revo⯑lution, yet, by reaſon of its being then full eſtated, that is, all let out upon Lives then actually ſubſiſting, and continued by the above-mentioned Frauds, his Lordſhip received no great Benefit out of it till ſome few Years before his Death; when he came to a Reſolution not to renew, tho', when all the Lives drop in, this Manor will, at a Rack-rent, amount to at leaſt 3000l. a Year.

There is a large old Manſion-houſe here, lying juſt on the River, with Gardens formed after the Manner of thoſe at Parſons-green; but it is not a kindly Place for ripening Fruit, and the Grounds lie very low and ſplaſhy, being all of a ſtiff Clay, and yet very good Paſture. Here is alſo a fine Park well timber'd, but without Deer. His Lordſhip had once a Deſign to improve this Manſion-houſe and Eſtate, and reſided here in 1705, when he was called to Court, and ſent to command the Queen's Forces in Spain, where his Conduct, and great Services to his Country, are too well known to need men⯑tioning here.

Tho' this Place is often overflowed with Water, yet there is none good, either for Brewing or Waſh⯑ing, or any Spring of ſweet Water. Here is a Spring of a chalybeat Kind, which would turn to good Account, were it not in ſuch a diſtant, and an almoſt inacceſſible Part of the Country, occaſioned by bad Roads, which were a great Protection to the Inhabitants in the late Civil Wars, who were never viſited by either Party; but injoyed an eaſy and uninterrupted Repoſe, whliſt their Neighbours, on all Sides, were involved in the Calamities of that un⯑natural War.

[47]Here is likewiſe a good neat Church, with one of the beſt-built, high, ſquare Towers I ever ſaw, raiſed at the Expence of one of the Lords of Dantſey, probably the afore-mentioned Henry, who lies buried here under a very large magnificent Tomb. Here likewiſe is interred Lieutenant-General Lewis Mor⯑daunt, a Brother of the late Earl, a Gentleman noted for his great Wit, Humour, and polite Con⯑verſation, as indeed all his Brothers were, as well as his Lordſhip.

Caſtlecomb is a Village of ſmall Account.

Chippenham is a corporate, good Market-town, likewiſe on the River Avon, over which it has a Bridge of Sixteen Arches, famous for the Reſidence and Reſort of many of the Weſt Saxon Kings, par⯑ticularly Alfred. Here is a very magnificent Church; and near this Place, formerly, was a famous Foreſt.

Bradford is a Market-town, and has a Bridge over the Avon. 'Tis well-built of Stone, and lies in the Side of a Hill.

Trubridge is an antient Market-town, and had formerly a Caſtle of Seven Towers, but long ſince deſtroyed. The Court of the Duchy of Lancaſter, for this County, is annually held here.

Weſtbury is a little Borough Market-town, but was formerly of great Note. Some Quantity of Roman Coins have been found here.

Warminſter is noted, as I have ſaid, for the prodi⯑gious Quantity of Corn, which is ſold in it every Market-day. Upon the Downs, near this Town, are two antient Camps, ſuppoſed to be Daniſh.

It is obſervable, That theſe Five laſt Towns be⯑longed antiently to the Family of the Hungerfords, which in King Edward IV.'s Reign came by Mar⯑riage to the Lord Haſtings, who being executed in Richard III.'s Time, this vaſt Eſtate was given by that King to Howard, Duke of Norfolk, firſt Earl-Marſhal of that Family, in England.

[48]Near Warminſter is the famous Foreſt of Selwood, called by the antient Britons, Coedmaur, i. e. Great⯑wood. It is 15 Miles in Length, and very thick of Wood.

Mere, which in the old Saxon ſignifys Boundary, as this Place ſeems to be on the Borders of Wilts, Somerſet, and Dorſet, is but a Village, and yet gives Name to the Hundred where it ſtands. It has neither Fair nor Market in it; but it had, antiently, a Caſtle. Not far from this Place is an old Daniſh Camp called Whiteſhole-hill. Sir Francis Cotton, who flouriſhed in the Reign of King James, and afterwards of Charles I. was born here.

A little South-eaſt of Mere lies Hindon, a ſmall Borough and Market-town. And North-eaſt of it ſtands Heightsbury, an inconſiderable Town; but noted formerly for an Hoſpital.

Lavington is alſo a little more North; a very in⯑different Market-town.

The Devizes is excellently ſituated, about Two Miles from the Bottom of the Hills, which keep off the Eaſtern Winds, and in a rich Soil. Under the Hill, at Runway, is an excellent Spring, which the Inhabitants have not yet found Means to convey thither, tho' it runs but a little way off the Town, where they want Water. It is a very large old Town, conſiſting chiefly of Two long parallel Streets, the Houſes moſtly of Tim⯑ber, but of a very good Model. The Inhabitants value themſelves for being Tenants to the King, and for one of the beſt weekly Markets in England. The Caſtle was originally Roman, judiciouſly ſeated upon a natural Fortification; but in After-times, made in a manner impregnable by Roger, a Biſhop of Salisbury, tho' now it ſuffers daily by Peoples taking away the Materials. Here are Two Churches. The Choir of St. Mary's is of a very old Model, as are the Steeple, Choir, and both Wings of St. John's, to which Additions have been made; and new wide Windows with pointed [49] Arches, in the room of the antient, narrow, ſemi⯑circular ones.

Juſt out of Town is a pretty Plain called the Green, with another handſome Church and Steeple, Suburbs to the old Town. Here William Cadby, a Gardener, dug up his Collection of Gods, which he carried about for a Shew. They were found in a Garden in a Cavity incloſed with Roman Brick. The Venus is of an excel⯑lent Deſign; and the Veſtal Virgin, as they call it, a Fragment of Corinthian Braſs, and of very curious Workmanſhip. Vulcan is as lame as if made at a Forge. He had alſo ſeveral Coins found thereabouts, and a Braſs Roman Key, which my Lord Winchelſea bought. Roman Antiquities are diſcovered here every Day. The ſame Nobleman has a Braſs Probus; on the Reverſe Victoria Germ. with a Trophy. A great Number of ſuch Reliques is to be met with all round the Country.

Calne is a little Town, ſituate on a ſtony Hill, and very antient, and is ſuppoſed to have been one of the Seats of the Weſt-Saxon Kings. It has a neat Church, and a good weekly Market. After a great Rain, in November 1725, the Waters roſe ſo very high here, on a ſudden, that they overflow'd the Town, damaged a great Quantity of Goods, drowned Two Men in the Street, and carried off a Caſk of Oil of 100 Gallons, which could not be found for ſeveral Days after. A great Parcel of Roman Coins were dug up here formerly. Here was, likewiſe, antiently an Hoſpital of Black Canons.

I am now come into the Road to Marlborough: On the Downs, about Two or Three Miles from the Town, are abundance of looſe Stones, lying ſcattered about the Plain, ſome whereof are very large, and appear to be of the ſame Kind with thoſe of Stone-henge, and ſome larger: they are called by the Country People, the Grey Weathers; and it muſt be confeſſed, that they look not unlike Sheep ſtraggling upon the [50] Downs, on a tranſient and diſtant View, as Travellers paſs. Theſe Grey Weathers, on a more curious Inſpection, are found to be a Sort of white Marble, and lie upon the Surface of the Ground in infinite Numbers, and of all Dimenſions. They are looſe, detached from any Rock, and, as Dr. Stukeley thinks, lay there ever ſince the Creation, being ſolid Parts thrown out to the Surface of the fluid Globe, when its Rotation was firſt impreſſed.

Marlborough, ſo called from its Hills of Chalk, which antiently was called Marle. It is the Cunetia (from Kenet) of the Romans; but from the coming of the Saxons to the Conqueſt, there is no Mention of it. It is governed by a Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgeſſes, and is well-built. It conſiſts chiefly of One broad and ſtrait Street. To the South are ſome Relicks of a Priory; the Gate-houſe is ſtill remain⯑ing. On the North, the Chapel of another Reli⯑gious Houſe remains, now turned into a Dwelling-houſe. The Seat of my Lord Hertford was the Scite of the Roman Coſtrum; for there they find Foundations, and Roman Coins; and towards the River, without the Garden-walls, one Angle of it very manifeſtly remains; and the Rampart [...]d Ditch intire. The Road going over the Bridge cuts it off from the preſent Caſtle. The Ditch is ſtill 20 Feet wide in ſome Parts. The Mount, ſo much noted, was the Keep of the Caſtle; it is now converted into a pretty ſpiral Walk, on the Top of which is an octagonal Summer-houſe, from whence you have a pleaſant View over the Town and County. The Town has at preſent a pretty good Shop-keeping Trade, but not much of the manufacturing Part. The River Kennet, ſome Years ago made navi⯑gable by Act of Parliament, riſes juſt by this Town; from whence running to Hungerford and Newbury, it becomes a large Stream; and paſſing by Reading, runs into the Thames near that Town. [51] This River is famous for Crayfiſh, which they help Travellers to at Newbury; but they ſeldom want for Price.

At Abury, near Marlborough Downs, in the Way to Bath, are to be ſeen the ſtupendous Remains of a Druids Temple, being a Collection of monſtrous Stones of the like Nature with thoſe of Stone-henge, and brought together from the Downs for the ſame re⯑ligious Purpoſes, as Dr. Stukeley makes no Queſtion.

On the Hills on this Side the Devizes is Round⯑way Down, where the King's Forces, under Prince Maurice, but owing chiefly to the Lord Wilmot, beat and intirely routed the famous Sir William Waller, in the Civil Wars; from whence the Place is called by ſome, Run-away Down, to this Day.

A little nearer towards Marlborough is St. Ann's Hill, where, notwithſtanding ſeveral high Hills be⯑tween, and the Diſtance of Twenty-two Miles, or more, is a fair View of Saliſbury Steeple, or Spire, which is deem'd the higheſt in England.

At Badmington in Wiltſhire have been found Nine Caves all in a Row, but of different Dimenſions, the leaſt of them Four Feet wide, ſome Nine or Ten Feet long, Two long Stones being ſet upon the Sides, and the Top cover'd with broad Stones. Spurs, Pieces of Armour, and the like, have been found in theſe Caves; which gives Ground to believe, that they were Tombs of ſome antient Warriors, Romans, Saxons, or Danes.

In our Way from Marlborough to Newbury, we mounted a chalky Hill, (of which Sort is much of the Soil of Wilts) on the Top of which we enter'd into Savernack Foreſt, belonging to the R [...]ght Hon. the Lord Bruce, and is almoſt the only privileged Ground of Hunting, of that Denomination, poſſeſs'd by a Subject. It is in Circumference about Twelve Miles, plentifully ſtock'd with Deer of a large Size, [52] and render'd very pleaſant and delightful by the many Walks and Viſtas lately cut and levell'd through the ſeveral Coppices and Woods with which it abounds. Eight of theſe Viſtas meet like ſo many Rays of a Star, in a Point near the Middle of the Foreſt, where his Lordſhip has prepared and cleared the Ground for erecting an Octagon Tower, whoſe Sides will be correſpondent to the Viſtas, thro' one of which you will have a View of his Lordſhip's Seat at about Two Miles Diſtance, called Tottenham, from a Park of that Name, in which it is ſituate, con⯑tiguous to the Foreſt.

It is a ſtately Edifice, newly erected on the ſame Spot of Ground where ſtood an antient Palace, de⯑ſtroyed by Fire, of the Marquis of Hereford, ſo juſtly celebrated for his ſteady Adherence, and power⯑ful Aſſiſtance, to the Royal Cauſe, during the whole Courſe of the Civil Wars, from whom his Lordſhip is deſcended, by his Mother the Lady Elizabeth, Siſter and Niece to the Two laſt Dukes of Somer⯑ſet, of the elder Line.

To give you ſome Idea of the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Structure, it will be ſuffi⯑cient to obſerve, that it was begun, carried on and finiſh'd, after the Model, and under the Direction, of our modern Vitruvius, the Earl of Burlington, who, to the Strength and Convenience of the Engliſh Architecture, has added the Elegance and Politeneſs of the Italian Taſte.

The Houſe has Four Towers, and Four Fronts, each of them diverſly beautified and adorned; to which are now added Four Wings, wherein are Rooms of State, a noble and capacious Room for a Library, containing a judicious and large Collection of ſeveral Thouſand Books in all Languages, but eſpecially the modern.

The Beauty and Delightfulneſs of the Buildings are much augmented by the large Canals, the ſpa⯑cious [53] and well-planted Walks which ſurround it, one of which, leading to the London Road, extends Two Miles in Length.

About the ſame Diſtance from hence, on the op⯑poſite Side, are to be ſeen the Remains of a large Houſe, the Seat of Sir John Seymour, Father of the unfortunate Protector, call'd Wolf-Hall, of which no more is ſtanding than ſuffices for a Farm-houſe. Here King Henry VIII. as, Tradition goes, cele⯑brated his Nuptials with the Lady Jane Seymour, and kept his Wedding-dinner, in a very large Barn, hung with Tapeſtry on the Occaſion; for Confirm⯑ation of which they ſhew you, in the Walls thereof, ſome Tenter-hooks, with ſmall Pieces of Tapeſtry faſten'd to them; and between this Place and Totten⯑ham th [...]re is a Walk, with old Trees on each Side, ſtill known by the Name of King Harry's Walk.

From hence, continuing our Courſe Eaſterly, we came to a Borough-town, called Great Bedwin, which Dr. Stukeley takes to be the Leucomagus of Ravennas. It is an old Corporation, and gave Birth to the fa⯑mous Dr. T. Willis, the Ornament of Engliſh Phy⯑ſicians. Caſtle Copſe, half a Mile from the Town South Eaſt, was probably the Roman Caſtle; and Haviſdike, a Camp of that People. Some time ſince there was in the Eaſt Window of the Church, the Picture of a Prieſt, with Two Crutches, a Cup in his Hand, and a Can ſtanding by him, with an Inſcription in old Engliſh Capitals, but in the Lan⯑guage obſolete French, which in Engliſh is this:

[54]The Church is large and capacious, in which are ſome antient Monuments, particularly one of a Knight-Templar, call'd Adam of Scott, from a Manor of that Name in the Pariſh, with an Inſcription not legible, and another above-mentioned of Sir John Seymour, Father of the Protector, wherein we have an Account of the Names of all his Children, with their ſeveral Inter-marriages and Deaths The Church is very ſtrongly built with Flint, and a Ce⯑ment near as hard as themſelves, in form of a Croſs, in the Centre of which is erected a high Tower, containing a good Ring of Six very muſical Bells.

Moving hence towards the North-eaſt a little, we croſs'd the much fam'd Wanſdyke, a Work of prodigious Labour and Expence, and concluded by moſt Writers to be a Boundary of one of the King⯑doms of the Heptarchy, probably that of the Weſt Saxons, before its Inlargement by incroaching on other Kingdoms. It may be traced from near Bath, all over the Downs, to this Place, where it turns its Courſe towards the Southern Coaſts: it is ſuppoſed, by ſome, to derive its Name from Woden, one of the Saxon Deities.

Soon after we mounted a ſmall Hill, of eaſy Aſcent, on the Summit of which was erected, as Hiſtorians inform us, a fortified Place, the Reſidence of Ciſſa, a Viceroy of one of the South-Saxon Kings, from whom it derives its Denomination of Chiſbury, or Ciſbury, who alſo built Chicheſter, for the Reſort of his People, as he did this for the Repoſe of him⯑ſelf. It ſeems to have been ſtrongly fortified, being ſurrounded with a double Ditch or Mote, of con⯑ſiderable Depth and Breadth, and full of Water: ſince which time there has been a Religious Houſe here, the Chapel of which is ſtill remaining, but converted into a Barn.

From hence we returned to the great London Road, and ſoon arrived at a Village called Froxfield, [55] about Seven Miles from Marlborough, in which is a handſome and well-endow'd Alms-houſe, founded by Sarah Ducheſs Dowager of Somerſet, Relict of John the laſt Duke of the elder Branch of the noble Family of Seymours, deſcended from the great Duke of Somerſet, Protector of the King and Kingdom, during the Minority of King Edward VI. This Lady bequeath'd by her Will above 2000l. for the Building and Furniture of this Alms-houſe, and de⯑viſed ſeveral Manors, Meſſuages, and Farms, for the Maintenance of Thirty poor Widows, not have⯑ing 20l. per Ann to ſubſiſt upon; one Half of which are Widows of Clergymen, and the other of Lay⯑men, giving a Preference to thoſe of the laſt Sort, who live on the Manors ſo deviſed by her. She left in her Will particular Directions for the Form, Di⯑menſions, and Scite of the Structure, and for the Manner of electing, ruling, and providing for the Widows, which her Executors, eſpecially Sir Wil⯑liam Gregory, who chiefly took upon him the Execu⯑tion of the Truſt, punctually obſerv'd.

The Building is neat and ſtrong, in the Form of a Quadrangle, having one Front, and a Court before it facing the Road. It contains Thirty Ground⯑rooms, and as many Chambers, one of each Sort being allowed to every Widow, for her Apartment, with an Area or Bed in a Garden, on the North Part of the Building, incloſed with a Brick-wall.

In the midſt of the Quadrangle is built a hand⯑ſome and convenient Chapel, furniſhed with a Com⯑munion-Table, Pulpit, Deſk, Pews and Books, for the Uſe of the Widows, wherein the Chaplain, whoſe Stipend is 30l. per Ann. is to read Prayers every Day, and to preach on Sundays: and for his further Encouragement, is to be preſented, on a Va⯑cancy, to the Rectory of Kemiſh, in the ſame County, which the Ducheſs has appropriated to that Uſe. Beſides the yearly Penſion in Money, which [56] is now about Eight Guineas, ſhe hath alſo ordered a Cloth-gown, with a certain Quantity of Wood every Winter, to each of the Widows: and when the Eſtates which ſhe has given to the ſaid Almſ⯑houſe, (many of which are now demiſed upon Leaſes for Lives) ſhall fall in, and ſhall produce a clear yearly Income of more than 400l. ſhe hath ap⯑pointed additional Lodgings to be built for the Re⯑ception of Twenty more Widows, who are to be placed on the ſame Eſtabliſhment, elected and pro⯑vided for in the ſame manner as the Thirty former; and then all the Rents and Profits of the ſaid Eſtates (the Salary for the Chaplain and a Steward being firſt deducted) ſhall be diſtributed in equal Shares and Proportions between the Fifty Widows.

The Produce of all the Eſtates deviſed to this, and another charitable Uſe, which I ſhall mention by-and-by, upon the Determination of the Leaſes granted, will, according to the beſt Information I could get, amount to little leſs than 1000l. per Ann.

This truly uſeful and excellent Charity, which diſplays the Judgment, as well as charitable Diſpoſi⯑tion, of the noble Foundreſs, is under the Inſpection and Management of ſeveral worthy Gentlemen and Clergymen of the Neighbourhood, who diſcharge the Truſt repoſed in them with a very laudable Dili⯑gence and Integrity, ſcrupulouſly, or religiouſly ra⯑ther, purſuing the Directions of the Will, care⯑fully preventing all Imbezelments, and frequently meeting, at their own Expence, for the Diſpatch of Buſineſs in the Execution of their Truſt; which worthy Example, if imitated by other Truſtees or Directors of charitable Benefactions, (who too often make a Property of their Truſt) would be of pub⯑lick Emolument, and ſingular Benefit to the Poor, by reſcuing charitable Deviſes from the Diſcourage⯑ment they now lie under, and rendering unneceſſary [57] the Trouble and Expence of applying for, and ſuing out Commiſſions of Charitable Uſes.

The ſame charitable Lady, to make Proviſion for the helpleſs Young, as well as deſtitute Old, has alſo bequeathed a conſiderable yearly Sum for the apprenticing of Ten or Twelve Children, in which a Preference is to be given to ſuch as were born in her Manors. In the Management of which Truſt, another Set of Truſtees act, with the ſame commend⯑able Uncorruptneſs and Integrity as the former.

We next came to Hungerford, a little Market⯑town, ſituate in a Mooriſh-place, remarkable only for being a great Thoroughfare to Bath and Bri⯑ſtol, and for Plenty of Trout and Crayfiſh. It is governed by the Lord of the Manor, as Conſtable, who is however choſen annually into that Office. From this Town the antient Family of the Barons of Hungerford took their Name and Title. The firſt of the Family was the firſt Speaker of the Houſe of Commons, in 51. Edward III. They poſſeſs'd a vaſt Eſtate this Way, and in all the neighbouring Counties, which was twice forfeited for their At⯑tachment to the Houſe of Lancaſter. This vaſt Eſtate fell by a Daughter to the famous Lord Haſt⯑ings, who was executed in the Reign of Richard III. when Howard, firſt Duke of Norfolk, had a Grant of it from that Prince, who falling with his Maſter in the Battle of Boſworth-Field, King Henry VII. reſtored it, with the Honour, to a younger Branch of the Hungerfords, who had joined him, and ſhared in the Glory of that Victory. But his De⯑ſcendants ſuffer'd Death for Treaſon, 31 Henry VIII. tho' Queen Mary reſtored them again. He was the Third of the Family who died for Treaſon: ſuch Viciſſitudes attended this noble Family, and their great Eſtate.

[58]We purſued the great Road, and arrived at New⯑bury, ſituate in a moſt fruitful Plain, and water'd by the River Kennet, which is made navigable up to the Town, which carries on a very great Trade in Malt, &c. with London. It is governed by a Mayor, High Steward, Aldermen and Burgeſſes. The Streets are ſpacious, and the Market-place large, where there is great Store of Corn ſold; and a Hall for the Buſineſs of the Corporation ſtands in it.

Here is alſo a good Charity-ſchool, very well en⯑dow'd, and this Place is noted for good Trout and Crayfiſh.

Near this Town was a double Scene of Blood; for here were Two obſtinate Battles fought at different Times, between the King's Army and the Parlia⯑ment's, King Charles being preſent at them both, and both were fought almoſt upon the ſame Spot of Ground. In theſe Two Battles it was obſerved by an experienced Soldier, who ſerved in the King's Army, that the Generals on both Sides ſhewed the moſt exquiſite Skill in the managing, poſting, bringing up, and drawing off their Troops; and the Men fought with equal Bravery. In the firſt of theſe Battles the Succeſs was doubtful, and both Sides claim'd the Advantage: in the laſt, the King's Army had apparently the worſt of it, and yet the King in a very few Days, with a great Body of Horſe, brought off his Cannon, which he had, in the Cloſe of the Battle, thrown into Dunington Caſtle, and carried them away to Oxford, the Head Quarter of his Army; and this he did in the Sight of the victorious Army, facing them at the ſame time with a Body of Six thouſand Horſe; they, on the other hand, not thinking fit to draw out to at⯑tack him. That Retreat, in point of Honour, was equal to a Victory, and gave new Courage, as well as Reputation, to the King's Troops.

[59]Part of Newbury is alſo known by the Name of Spinham-lands. For it aroſe out of the Ruins of an old Town, called Spine, the Remains of which now join to Newbury, in reſpect to which it was called New Borough, and for Shortneſs Newbury. It is noted, among other Things, for Two or Three good Inns, where Travellers are well accommodated.

This Town of Newbury was an antient Clothing Town, tho' now little of that Buſineſs remains to it; but it retains ſtill a manufacturing Genius, and the People are generally imployed in making Shalloon, which, tho' it be uſed only for the Lining and Inſides of Mens Cloaths, yet it becomes ſo generally worn both at home and abroad, that it is increaſed to a Manufacture by itſelf, and is more conſiderable than any ſingle Manufacture of Stuffs in the Nation. This imploys the Town of Newbury, as alſo Ando⯑ver, a Town I have already deſcribed, and many others in different Counties of England.

Here lived the famous Jack of Newbury, the greateſt Clothier that ever was in England, having 100 Looms at work in his own Houſe. He flouriſh⯑ed in the Reign of Henry VIII. and marched at the Head of 100 of his own Men, all cloath'd and maintain'd by himſelf, to the Battle of Flodden-Field, where he behav'd well. He rebuilt Part of New⯑bury Church, and the whole Tower of it. This is One of the Two Legatee Towns (as they were called) in the Will of the famous Mr. Kenrick, who being the Son of a Clothier of Newbury, and after⯑wards a Merchant in London, left 4000l. to New⯑bury, and 7500l. to Reading, to encourage the Cloth⯑ing Trade, and to ſet the Poor at Work, beſides other Gifts of extraordinary Value to the Poor.

This Gentleman's Will is to be ſeen at large in Stow's Survey of London, to which I refer.

[60]What Improvement the Towns of Newbury and Reading have made of theſe great Sums, I did not inquire into.

Near Newbury the late Earl of Craven built a very ſtately Pile of Buildings for his own Dwelling, called Spine; but as it was never quite finiſhed, ſo I do not underſtand, that his Lordſhip ever came to live in it, and ſome Years ago it was by a ſudden Fire burnt down to the Ground. It was reported, that that Lord built this magnificent Palace, (for ſuch it really was) at a Time when he had Hopes of marrying Madame Royale, as ſhe was then called, viz. the Queen of Bohemia, Siſter to King Charles I. who, then a Widow, lived under the Shadow of the Engliſh Coutt; but being fruſtrated in that View, the Earl went no farther in his Building. But his preſent Lordſhip has lately rebuilt this Houſe, and tho' not in ſo grand a manner as the former, it is very commodious.

Weſtward, a little out of our Way, we viſited the Ruins of the Caſtle of Donnington, juſt mention'd, which was ſeated on the Brow of a high Hill, waſhed by the little River Lambourn, and had been the Seat of Sir Geoffrey Chaucer, Father of Engliſh Poetry. They ſhew us a Place here, where, in his Days, as well as many Years ſince, even down to the Memo⯑ry of ſome of the Inhabitants now living, flouriſhed a great Oak, call'd Chaucer's Oak, where they very gravely tell you he uſed to ſit and compoſe his Poems.

We went forward to the Town of Lambourn, ſo called from the River which runs down and falls into the Kennet, near Thatcham. It is ſituate on the South-ſide of White-Horſe-Hill, and has a Market. This River is remarkable for being very low in Win⯑ter, and high in Summer. It goes off about Michael⯑mas, and the ſooner it goes, the more plentiful, ſay [61] the Inhabitants, will that Year be. This Town is likewiſe noted for the Birth-place, or at leaſt, the Reſidence of the Poet Sylveſter, who celebrates the River in the following Lines:

At Newbury we quitted the high Road, and being deſirous to ſee ſomething of the North of Berkſhire, we ſtruck up to Iſlip, which tho' but an inconſider⯑able little Town, yet has a good weekly Market for Sheep.

We paſſed North-eaſtward to Wantage, a Town of ſome Antiquity, pretty good and neat. It is noted for the Birth-place of the renowned King Alfred, and is watered by the Och.

From Wantage we advanced into the fine and fertile Vale of White-Horſe, which extends almoſt from Farringdon to Abington, tho' not in a direct Line. Looking South from the Vale, we ſee a [62] Trench cut on the Side of a high green Hill, in the Shape of a Horſe, and not ill done. The Trench is about a Yard deep, and fill'd almoſt up with Chalk; ſo that at a Diſtance you ſee the exact Shape of a White-Horſe, ſo large as takes up near an Acre of Ground. From this Figure the Hill is called White-Horſe-Hill, and the Vale below takes alſo its Name. 'Tis ſaid to be done in order to commemorate a ſignal Victory; and ſome give it to the Saxons, whoſe Device was, and ſtill is, a white Horſe. Weſt⯑ward of this Vale, lies Aſhbury, betwixt which and Wantage is a very large Camp on the Brow of a Hill: 'tis ſingle work'd, and of a quadrangular Form, which ſhews it a Roman Work.

The neighbouring Pariſh to this White-Horſe have a Cuſtom annually at Midſummer, to go and weed it, in order to keep it in Shape and Colour; and when they have done their Work, they end the Day in Feaſting and Meriment.

We arrived at Farringdon, noted for its pleaſant Situation on a Hill. It has a very good Market weekly, and is very neat and clean. In this Place may be ſeen the Ruins of a Caſtle, built by Robert Earl of Glouceſter, in King Stephen's Reign. Here was alſo a Priory of Ciſtertian Monks. The Church is large and handſome.

From hence we went partly by the Foreſt to Abingdon, a handſome well-built Town, where the Aſſizes and Seſſions, and other publick Meet⯑ings of the County, are generally held. Here is a ſtately Market-houſe, built on high Pillars, over which is a large Hall for the Aſſizes. The Town conſiſts of ſeveral well-paved Streets, which centre in an open and ſpacious Place, where the Corn-market is kept. They make great Quantities of Malt here, and ſend it up by Barges to London. Here is a good Free-School, and alſo a Charity-School. [63] The Corporation is governed by a Mayor, Two Bailiffs, and Nine Aldermen.

It is an antient Town, and was famed for Reli⯑gious Houſes in the Time of the antient Britons. It was alſo famous for having ſeveral Synods held there, and for one of the nobleſt Abbeys in the King⯑dom, founded, as it is ſaid, by Heane, Nephew to Ciſſa, Father to King Ina. Henry I. was educated in this Monaſtery.

We next came to Wallingford, called by the antient Britons Gwal Hen, i. e. Old Fort, a Place of great Figure, as well in their Days and of the Romans, as of the Saxons and Danes, the laſt of whom deſtroyed it in 1006; but it was ſoon rebuilt, and eſteemed a Borough, in the Confeſſor's Time. It has been defended by a ſtrong Caſtle, which has been long ſince demoliſh'd. It is ſtill a large well-built Town, has a good Market-place and Town-hall, where the Aſſizes have been ſometimes held, and a Quarter-ſeſſion for the Borough always. It has ſtill Two Churches ſtanding; but one was very much damaged in the Civil Wars, when Two others here were altogether deſtroyed. It has Two weekly Markets, and is govern'd by a Mayor, Burgeſſes, &c.

Here we croſs'd the Thames into Oxfordſhire, and leaving Wathington, a little inconſiderable Market-town on the Left, we fell down thro' Netlebed (like⯑wiſe a Town of little Note) to Henley upon Thames, a very antient Town, the Name being deriv'd from the Britiſh Word Hen-lley, i. e. Old Place. It was formerly part of the Eſtate of the Barons of Hunger⯑ford, mentioned before. It is now a Corporation of great Account, govern'd by a Warden, Burgeſſes, and other Officers. It has a conſiderable Corn and Malt-market. The Inhabitants are moſtly Maltſters, Mealmen and Bargemen, who by carrying Corn and Timber to London, get a gainful Living, and inrich [64] the Neighbourhood. It has a good Free Grammar School, and alſo a Charity School, liberally endow'd for teaching, cloathing, and apprenticing ſeveral poor Children. Here is alſo an Alms-houſe, but meanly endowed; for tho' there are not above Six or Seven Perſons in it, they have but Six-pence a-piece weekly for their Allowance.

We return'd over a wooden Bridge, into Berkſhire; and as Thatcham, Woolhampton and Theal, which lie between Newbury and Reading, are at preſent noted only for being great Thoroughfare Towns, and full of Inns, we went no further back than Reading.

Reading is ſo called from the Britiſh Word Rhedin, i. e. Fern, which formerly grew in great Quantity there. It is a very large and wealthy Town, hand⯑ſomly built, the Inhabitants rich, and driving a very great Trade. The Town is ſituated on the River Kennet, but ſo near the Thames, that the largeſt Barges which they uſe, may come up to the Town Bridge, where they have Wharfs to load and unload them. Their chief Trade is by this Water-naviga⯑tion to and from London, tho' they have neceſſarily a great Trade into the Country, for the Conſumption of the Goods which they bring by their Barges from London, and particularly Coals, Salt, Grocery Wares, Tobacco, Oils, and all heavy Goods.

They ſend from hence to London by theſe Barges, very great Quantities of Malt and Meal, and theſe are the Two principal Articles of their Loadings. Some of thoſe Barges are ſo large, that I was told, they bring a Thouſand, or Twelve hundred Quar⯑ters of Malt at a time, which, according to the ordinary Computation of Tonnage in the Freight of other Veſſels, is from a Hundred to an Hundred and Twenty Ton, dead Weight.

They alſo ſend very great Quantities of Timber from Reading; for Berkſhire being a well-wooded [65] County, and the River Thames a convenient Con⯑veyance for the Timber, they tranſport the largeſt and faireſt of the Timber to London, which is generally bought by the Shipwrights in the River for the build⯑ing Merchant-Ships. The like Trade of Timber is carried on at Henley above-mentioned, and at Maiden-head; of which in its Place.

A large Manufacture of Sail-Cloth was ſet up in Reading by the late Sir Owen Buckingham, Lord-Mayor of London, and many of the poor People were profitably imployed in it; but Sir Owen dying, and his Son being unhappily kill'd in a Duel a little while after, that Manufacture died alſo.

Here is however ſtill a Remnant of the Woollen Manufacture, which was once carried on in it to a very conſiderable Degree; and this Town, as well as Newbury, has injoy'd the above-mentioned Legacies of Mr. Kenrick, to ſet the Poor at Work, and incourage the Clothing Trade; viz. 7500l.

Mr. Camden's Continuator ſays, there were once 140 Maſter-Clothiers in this one Town; but now they are almoſt all gone. During the Civil Wars in England this Town was ſtrongly fortified, and the Remains of the Baſtions and other Works are ſtill to be ſeen.

There are Three Churches built of Flint and ſquare Stones in the quincunx Faſhion, with tall Tow⯑ers of the ſame. Here are alſo Two large Meeting-houſes, beſides that of the Quakers. Camden calls it a little City: it is ſaid to contain about 8000 People, including a little Hamlet at the Bridge over the Thames. Archbiſhop Laud was born in this Town.

It was formerly noted for a very famous Abbey, and other Religious Foundations. The Abbey ſtood in a charming Situation, and large Ruins of it are ſtill viſible, built of Flint: the Walls which remain are about Eight Feet thick, tho' the Stone that [66] faced them is gone. What is left is ſo hard cemented, that the Labour in ſeparating them would not be anſwer'd by their Uſe. There are many Remnants of arch'd Vaults, a good Height above Ground, whereon ſtood, as may be preſum'd, the Hall, Lodg⯑ings, &c. The Abbey Gate-houſe is yet pretty in⯑tire.

This was built by King Henry I. on an old Abbey, formerly erected by a Saxon Lady. That Prince was buried in it, with his Queen; but their Monuments are loſt in the Ruins of the Place, and no-where to be found.

There was a famous old Caſtle, long ſince de⯑moliſhed.

The Empreſs Maud, Daughter of Henry I. was alſo buried here; but her Monument is loſt, as well as the others. It bore this Inſcription, as we are aſſur'd:

Thus tranſlated:

The deceas'd Earl Cadogan, who was created Baron of Reading, by his late Majeſty King George I. in 1716, built a fine large Houſe at Caverſham near Reading; which his Succeſſor the preſent Lord Ca⯑dogan thought fit to reduce to a ſmaller and more convenient Size, as leſs regarding the outward Glare of Magnificence, than Uſe and Convenience.

At Reading, in the Year 1688, began the univer⯑ſal Alarm that ſpread over the whole Kingdom (al⯑moſt at the ſame time) of the Iriſh being coming to cut every body's Throats; which was carried from [67] Town to Town by Peoples Fears and Terrors, aggra⯑vated by the Menaces of an Iriſh Detachment of Soldiers, who were beat out of Reading by the Dutch, and prevented taking the Quarters they in⯑tended at Maidenhead, Colebrook, Stanes, &c.

It is impoſſible to expreſs the Conſternation of the People all over England on this Occaſion; for the terrible Story ſpread (like the Undulations of the Wa⯑ter in a Pond, when a flat Stone is caſt upon the Surface) all over the Kingdom, as I have ſaid, in one Day; for Fear gave Wings to the News: no Poſt could carry it as it flew from Town to Town; and ſtill every Meſſenger had Two Articles with him: 1. Not that ſuch and ſuch Towns were to be burnt and plundered by them; but that they were already burnt: And, 2. that the Iriſh were at their Heels to do the like there. And the Service this Report did to the Cauſe of the Revolution, is hardly to be imagined.

Twyford is about Five Miles Eaſt of Reading, and is only noted, like Theale, and the other Towns beyond Reading, for its Number of Inns, for the Accommodations of Carriers, &c.

Juſt beyond Theale, is Inglefield, where King Ethet⯑wolf routed the Danes.

From Reading I went to Great Marlow in Buck⯑inghamſhire, which, though not in the direct Road, yet lying on the Banks of the River Thames, is pro⯑per enough to be ſpoken of, and is particularly worth Notice for ſeveral Things.

1. It is a Town of very great Imbarkation on the Thames, not ſo much for Manufactures wrought here, (for the Trade of the Town is chiefly in Bone⯑lace) but for Goods brought from the neighbouring Towns; a very great Quantity of Malt and Meal particularly being brought hither from High Wick⯑ham, which is one of the greateſt Corn-markets on [68] this Side of England, and lies on the Road from London to Oxford.

2. Between High Wickham and Marlow is a little River called the Loddon, on which are a great many Corn-mills, and ſome Paper-mills: the firſt of theſe grind and dreſs the Wheat, and then the Meal is ſent to Marlow, and put on board the Barges for London; and the ſecond make great Quantities of ordinary Printing-paper.

3. On the Thames, juſt by the Side of this Town, tho' on the other Bank, are Three very remarkable Mills, called the Temple-Mills, or the Braſs-Mills, for making Biſham Abbey Battery Work, as they call it, viz. Braſs Kettles and Pans, &c. of all Sorts. And theſe Works were attended with no ſmall Suc⯑ceſs, 'till in the Year 1720. they made a Bubble of it, and then it ran the Fate of all the Bubbles at that time.

4. Next to theſe are Two Mills which are both of an extraordinary Kind, one for making of Thim⯑bles, a Work which performs to Admiration; and another for preſſing of Oyl from Rape and Flax⯑ſeed, both which turn to very good Account to the Proprietors.

Hither is alſo brought down a vaſt Quantity of Beech Wood, which grows in Buckinghamſhire more plen⯑tifully than in any other Part of England; and from whence the County itſelf derives its Name.

At Biſham, over-againſt this Town, was formerly an Abbey, and the Remains of it are ſtill to be ſeen. The Eſtate belong'd once to the Knights Templars, and ſince came to the antient Family of Hobby, whereof Sir William Hobby, and Sir Edward Hobby, are noted in our Hiſtories, the latter as having been imploy'd by Queen Elizabeth in the moſt important foreign Negotiations, as a learned Man, and great Antiquary. Their Monuments, with thoſe of their Ladies and Children, are in the little Church of [69] Biſham, and well worth ſeeing. The Seat of the Family is now in Dorſetſhire; but hither they are generally all brought, when they die, to be buried with their Anceſtors.

A little higher, on the ſame Side of the River, is Hurley, an antient Seat of the Lord Lovela [...]; and all the Male Branches of the Family b [...]g extinct, it came by the Daughter and Heireſ [...] o S [...]r H [...]nry Johnſon of Blackwall, near Ratcliffe, who origi⯑nally was only a Shipwright, or Maſter-build [...]r, at the great Yard and Dock there, of which I ſhall ſpeak in their Place. This Lady left only one Daughter, married to the late Earl of Strafford.

From hence we fell with the Thames into Maiden⯑head, and ſo came into the London Road again. It is an antient Corporation under the Government of a High Steward, a Mayor, a Steward, and Ten Aldermen, out of which they annually elect Two Bridgmaſters to look after the large Timber-bridge which here croſſes the Thames, for the Repair of which the Town has Three Trees annually allow'd them out of Windſor Foreſt. The Mayor, for the Time being, is Clerk of the Market and Coroner, and he and the Mayor for the preceding Year, and the Steward, are Juſtices of the Peace: they chuſe yearly Two Mace-bearers. The Town is a large Thoroughfare, with many good Inns in it, and has a good Market weekly. It lies in Two Pariſhes, one Part of it is in Bray, famous of old for its con⯑forming Vicar to all Times, Changes, and Seaſons.

As ſoon as you are out of Maidenhead, you ſee Cliefden on your Left, where George Duke of Buck⯑ingham began a magnificent and delightful Palace, which the late Earl of Orkney afterwards purchaſed of the Family, and finiſh'd; and now has the Honour to be the Summer Retreat of his Royal Highneſs Frederick Prince of Wales.

[70]We came to Slough, a Village Five Miles Eaſt of Maidenhead, which conſiſts almoſt intirely of Inns. They ſeem to vie with one another, and 'tis wonder⯑ful how they all ſubſiſt; and eſpecially as they are oppoſed by the Two famous new ones of the Caſtle and Windmill, a little Way out of Slough, which are much more delightfully ſituated, and have better Accommodations.

Here we left the Road, and turn'd to the Right, and ſoon arriv'd at Eton, where there is the fineſt School for Grammar Learning, that is in Britain, or per⯑haps in Europe.

The Buildings, except the great School-room, are antient; the Chapel Gothick; but all has been re⯑paired, at a very great Expence, out of the College Stock, within theſe few Years, and a noble Library built for the Reception of Books.

In the great Court a fine Statue is erected to the Honour of the Founder, by Dr. Godolphin, late Dean of St. Paul's, and Provoſt of this College; and the Library has receiv'd ſeveral conſiderable Benefactions, particularly very lately, the fine Col⯑lection of Richard Topham, Eſq formerly Keeper of the Records in the Tower, which was preſented to it, by the late excellent Lord Chief Juſtice Reeves. And before that a Collection of Books, valu'd at 2000l. was left to it by Dr. Waddington, late Bi⯑ſhop of Chicheſter.

The Gardens, which extend from the College down almoſt to the Bank of the Thames, are well planted and kept.

This College was founded by King Henry VI. a Prince munificent in his Gifts for the Incourage⯑ment of Learning. Witneſs, beſides this noble Foun⯑dation, that of King's College in Cambridge, to which the Scholars of Eton are annually removed; and which, had it been perfected as he deſigned it, would have been the nobleſt Building of the Kind in the [71] World. But his Succeſſor and Depoſer, K. Ed. IV. took ſeveral Manors from Eton College, and beſtow'd them on their Neighbours at Windſor; and had in⯑tended to have taken from them ſtill more, had not the celebrated Jane Shore ſolicited in their Behalf.

This College has a ſettled Revenue of about 5000l. per Ann. and maintains a Provoſt, a Vice-provoſt, who is alſo a Fellow; Six other Fellows, and 70 Scholars on the Foundation, beſides a full Choir for the Chapel, with neceſſary Officers and Servants. The School is divided into the upper and lower, and each into Three Claſſes; each School has One Maſter, and each Maſter Four Aſſiſtants or Uſhers. None are received into the upper School, till they can make Latin Verſes, and have a tolerable Knowledge of the Greek. In the lower School the Children are re⯑ceived very young, and are initiated into all School-learning. Beſides the Seventy Scholars upon the Foundation, there are always abundance of Chil⯑dren, generally ſpeaking, of the beſt Families, and of Perſons of Diſtinction, who are boarded in the Houſes of the Townſmen, and within the College.

The Number of Scholars inſtructed here uſed to be from 400 to 500; but has not been, for Seven Years paſt, more than 320.

The Election of Scholars for the Univerſity, out of this School, is made annually on the Firſt Tueſday in Auguſt. In order to it, Three Perſons are deputed from King's College in Cambridge, viz. the Provoſt of that College, and One Senior, and One Junior Poſer, Fellows of the ſame; who being join'd by the Provoſt, the Vice-provoſt, and the Head Maſter of Eton College, call before them the Scholars of the upper Claſs, and examining them in the ſeveral Parts of their Learning, chuſe out Twelve ſuch as they think beſt qualified, and enter them in a Roll or Liſt for the Univerſity. Theſe Youths are not imme⯑diately removed from the School, but muſt wait till [72] Vacancies fall in King's College; and as ſuch happen, are then taken as they ſtand in Seniority in the Roll of Election.

When a Scholar from Eton comes to King's Col⯑lege, he is received upon the Foundation, and pur⯑ſues his Studies there for Three Years; after which he claims a Fellowſhip, unleſs forfeited by Marriage, accepting of Eccleſiaſtick Preferments, &c. accord⯑ing to the Terms of the Statutes.

The Provoſt has a noble Houſe and Garden, beſides the Uſe of the College Gardens at his Pleaſure.

Will you, Sir, excuſe me here a few Lines to the Memory of the late excellent Lord Chief Juſtice Reeves, before-mentioned? This worthy and emi⯑nent Lawyer had a Seat in this Town, to which he conſtantly retired at the Cloſe of every Term, while he was at the Bar; for he would never go the Cir⯑cuit, or attend the Court of Chancery; and actually declined accepting of the high Office of a Judge, while his Lady liv'd, chuſing rather to ſpend his Vacations in Retirement with his Family, than either Honour or Profit; yet he was purſued even here with Caſes for his Opinion, as being the greateſt Lawyer of his Time; and theſe were conveyed to him by his Clerk from his Chambers in the Temple; and after he had anſwer'd them, he would return them thither again, without ſeeing the Practiſers who left them.

This Gentleman lay a long time undiſtinguiſh'd in his Profeſſion, under an invincible Modeſty; in⯑ſomuch that he thought once of quitting the Bar: but a lucky Occaſion happening, whereby he had an Opportunity to ſhew his great Parts and Learning, he was ſoon taken Notice of, and retain'd in every Cauſe of Moment; but however confined himſelf intirely to the Courts of Law, and chiefly to that of the King's Bench. After the Death of his Wife he was prevailed with to aſcend the Bench as a [73] Judge, in the laſt Court, which he accepted, proba⯑bly to alleviate and divert the Concern he was in for her Death. He was afterwards made Lord Chief Juſtice of the Common-pleas, in which Office he lived but Two Years. His Death was a publick Loſs, and much lamented.

I am now come to Windſor, where I muſt for a while quit the Subject of Trade and Navigation, in order to deſcribe the moſt beautiful and moſt plea⯑ſantly ſituated Caſtle, and Royal Palace, in the whole Iſle of Great Britain.

William the Conqueror was the firſt of our Engliſh Monarchs, who diſtinguiſh'd Windſor. That Prince, who delighted much in Hunting, finding it a Situa⯑tion highly proper for that Purpoſe, and, as he ſaid of it, a ſuitable Place for the Entertainment of Kings, agreed with the Abbot of Weſtminſter for an Exchange, and ſo took Poſſeſſion of it. He built a Caſtle here, and had ſeveral little Lodges or Hunt⯑ing-houſes in the Foreſt adjoining; and frequently lodg'd, for the Conveniency of his Sport, in a Houſe which the Monks before enjoyed near or in the Town of Windſor; for the Town is much more ancient than the preſent Caſtle, and was an emi⯑nent Paſs upon the Thames in the Reign of the Saxon Kings.

After him King Edward III. taking an extreme Liking to that Place, reſolved to fix his Summer Reſidence here; and accordingly laid out himſelf the Plan of that magnificent Palace, which, as to outward Form and Building, we now ſee there; for whatever has been done as to beautifying, altering, or amending the Inſide and Apartments, nothing has been added to the Building itſelf, except that noble Terrace, which runs under the North Front, and leads to the Green on the Park, at the Eaſt Side or End of it, along which the fine Lodgings, and Royal Apartments, were at firſt built; all the North-part [74] being then taken up in Rooms of State, and Halls for publick Balls, &c.

The Houſe itſelf was indeed a Palace, and with⯑out any Appearance of a Fortification; but when the Building was brought on to the Slope of the Hill on the Town Side, the King added Ditches, Ram⯑parts, the Round Tower, and ſeveral other Places of Strength; and thence it was called a Caſtle.

Such a Pride did this great King take in being the Founder of this ſumptuous Building, that when it was ſuggeſted to him, that William of Wickham had aſſumed the Honour of it to himſelf, it had like to have coſt William all his Intereſt in the King's Favour, which at that time was very great; but the Prelate cleared himſelf by diſavowing the Charge, urging that all he protended to, was to acknowlege, That the Money and the Reputation he had gained by building that Caſtle for the King, had been the making of him. For it ſeems he had cauſed theſe Words, ‘THIS MADE WICKHAM,’ to be cut in Stone in the inner Wall of the little Tower, which from him is, to this Day, call'd Win⯑cheſter Tower.

William of Wickham, whom I have before-men⯑tioned in my Account of Wincheſter, was, at that time, the Architect of the Court; and ſo well per⯑form'd his Part, that in all the Decorations and Or⯑naments which have been made ſince by ſucceeding Princes, they have found no Occaſion to add to or diminiſh any thing, except it be to alter ſome ſmall Matter at the Entrance to the great Stair-caſe, the Kitchen, and Offices below Stairs, and ſuch-like; but the great North and Eaſt Fronts, the Square of the inner Court, the great Gates at the entering from the Town, with the Round Tower, and the [75] Walls annex'd, are all ſtanding in the very Form in which King Edward III. left them.

The only Addition in the Inſide, is a fine Eque⯑ſtrian Statue of King Charles II. which ſtands over the great Well, ſunk, as may be ſuppoſed, in the firſt Building, for the Supply of the Caſtle with Water, and in which was an Engine for raiſing it, notwithſtanding the great Depth, by very little Labour; the Contrivance and Performance of Sir Samuel Morland, an excellent Mechanick and Ma⯑thematician.

On the Outſide, as I have ſaid, was added the Terrace Walk, by Queen Elizabeth, where ſhe uſually walked for an Hour every Day before her Dinner, if not hindered by windy Weather, to which ſhe had a peculiar Averſion; for ſhe loved to walk in a mild, calm Rain, with an Umbrella over her Head.

This is really a magnificent Work; for as it is raiſed on a ſteep Declivity of the Hill, it was neceſ⯑ſarily cut down a very great Depth, to bring the Foundation to a Flat equal to the Breadth, which was to be formed above. From the Foundation it was raiſed by ſolid Stone Work of a vaſt Thickneſs, with croſs Walls of Stone, for banding the Front, and preventing any Thruſt from the Weight of Earth within.

This noble Walk is covered with fine Gravel, and has Cavities, with Drains, to carry off the Water; ſo that not a Drop of Rain will reſt on the Terrace, but it is dry, hard, and fit to walk on immediately after the greateſt Showers. The Breadth of this Walk is very ſpacious on the North Side; on the Eaſt Side it is narrower. Neither Verſailles, nor any of the Royal Palaces in France, Naples, or Rome, can ſhew any thing like this. The Grand Seignior's Terrace, in the outer Court of the Seraglio next the Sea, is what I think comes the neareſt, and yet is [76] not equal to it, if I may believe the Account of thoſe who have ſeen it.

At the North-eaſt Corner of this Terrace, where it turns South, to run on by the Eaſt Side of the Caſtle, are Steps, by which you go off upon the Plain of the Park, which is kept ſmooth as a Carpet, and on the Edge of which the Proſpect of the Ter⯑race is doubled by a Viſta, South over the Park, and quite up to the great Park, and towards the Foreſt. Here alſo is a ſmall Seat, that will not contain above One, or Two at moſt, with an high Back and Cover for the Head, which being fixed on a Pin of Iron or Braſs, the Perſons who ſit in it may eaſily turn it from the Wind, however it may blow; and enjoy a complete Calm. This is ſaid alſo to be Queen Eli⯑zabeth's Invention, to avoid being ruffled with the Wind; and it affords no leſs Shelter from the Sun.

From this lofty Terrace the People within have an Egreſs to the Park, and to a moſt beautiful Walk, which neither King Edward III. nor his Succeſſors, for ſome Hundreds of Years, knew any thing of, all their Proſpect being from the Windows of the Caſtle.

On that Side of the Building which looks out upon the Terrace, are all the Royal Apartments; thoſe of King Edward III. which were on the Eaſt Side, being now allotted to great Officers of State.

You mount into the Royal Apartments by ſeveral back Stairs; but the publick Way is up a ſmall Aſcent to a Flat or Half-pace, where there are two Entries of State by two large Stair-caſes, one on the Left-hand to the Royal Apartments, and the other on the Right, to St. George's-hall and the Royal Chapel.

Before the Entrance to theſe on either Side, you paſs thro' the Guard-chambers, where you ſee the Walls furniſhed with Arms, and the King's Yeomen of the Guard keep their Station. Theſe Rooms [77] lead as well to the fine Lodgings, as to St. George's-hall.

In the Royal Lodgings there have been ſo many Alterations of Furniture, that there can be no enter⯑ing upon a particular Deſcription. In the Chimney-piece of one of theſe Apartments, is a Piece of Needle-work exquiſitely fine, performed, as they ſay, by the Queen of Scots, during the Time of her Con⯑finement in Fotheringay-caſtle. There are ſeveral Family Pictures in the Chimney-pieces, and other Parts of thoſe Lodgings, which are very valuable.

Theſe Rooms look all out North towards the Terrace, and over Part of the fineſt and richeſt Vale in the World; which along the Courſe of the River Thames, with very little Interruption, reaches to, and includes the City of London Eaſt, and the City of Oxford Weſt; the River, with a beautiful winding Stream gliding gently thro' the Middle of it, and in⯑riching by its Navigation both the Land and the People on every Side.

It may be proper to ſay ſomething of the Beauties and Ornaments of St. George's-hall, tho' nothing can be ſaid equal to what the Eye may be Witneſs to. 'Tis ſurpriſing, at the firſt Entrance, to ſee at the Upper-end the Picture of King William on Horſe⯑back; under him an Aſcent with Marble Steps, a Baluſtrade, and a half Pace, which formerly was actually there, with room for a Throne, or Chair of State, for the Sovereign to ſit on, when on publick Days he thought fit to appear in Ceremony.

At the Weſt End of the Hall is the Chapel Royal, the neateſt and fineſt of the Kind in England: the carved Work is beyond any that can be ſeen in the Kingdom.

After we had ſpent ſome Hours in viewing all that was curious on this Side, we came down to the Dungeon, or Round Tower, which goes up a long, but eaſy Aſcent of Steps, and is very high. Here we [78] were obliged to deliver up our Swords, but no-where elſe: tho' here is nothing curious. The Governor or Conſtable's Lodgings are neatly furniſhed, but nowiſe extraordinary.

From this Tower you ſee St. Paul's Cathedral at London very plainly.

Coming down from hence we entered into the other Court, where is the great Chapel of the Garter, and the Houſe or College for the poor Knights, as they are called.

I might go back here to the Hiſtory of the Order of the Garter, the Inſtitution of which by King Edward III. had its Original here: but this is done ſo fully in other Authors, that I ſhall only mention, That this Order was not founded on the Counteſs of Salisbury's Garter, as Polydere Virgil, the moſt con⯑ceited and moſt erroneous Author that ever wrote of the Engliſh Affairs, ridiculouſly aſſerts; but on that martial King's own Garter, which he gave as the Signal at the glorious Battle of Creſſi, as St. George was given for the Word of the Day. To comme⯑morate which, in Honour of his brave and war⯑like Son, and of thoſe Nobles and Gentlemen who ſhared with him in the Glory of that ever memorable Day, he inſtituted this Order. And here I can't forbear obſerving, (tho' intirely out of my way) how fond we have ever been in following Foreigners in moſt Things, even from the Coxcomb in Dreſs, up to the Hiſtorian; as is evident not only from this idle Story of the above-mentioned Author prevailing among u [...] in particular, and of his Hiſtory in general, but likewiſe of the Performance of a late Foreign Author, of the Affairs and Tranſactions of this Country; whereby the Tranſlator, and Under⯑take [...], to uſher it out in Engliſh, got at leaſt 10,000l. when it had nothing more, but rather much leſs▪ to recommend it, than any of our own Engliſh Hiſtories.

[79]The following are the Names of the firſt Knights of this moſt Noble Order.

• King Edward III.
• The Black Prince.
• Henry, D. of Lancaſter.
• Thomas, Earl of Warwick.
• Peers Capitow de la Bouch.
• Ralph, Earl of Stafford.
• W. Montacute, E. of Saliſ.
• Roger Mortimer, Earl of March.
• John de Lyſle.
• Bartholomew Burgherſh.
• John de Beauchamp.
• John de M [...]un.
• Hugh Courteney.
• Thomas Holland.
• John de Grey.
• Richard Fitz Simon.
• Miles Stapleton.
• Thomas Wale.
• Hugh Worteſley.
• Nele Loring.
• John Chandos.
• James d' Audeley.
• Otho Holland.
• Henry Eam.
• Sanchet Daubricourt.
• Walter Paveley, alias Pevrell.

Theſe, tho' not all Noblemen, were however Men of great Characters and Stations, either in the Army, or in the Civil Adminiſtration, and ſuch as the Sovereign did not think it below him to make his Companions.

The lower Court of the Caſtle, although not ſo diſtinguiſhed by Lodgings and Rooms of State, is nevertheleſs particularly glorious for the fine Chapel of the Order, a moſt beautiful and magnificent Work, and which ſhews the Greatneſs not only of the Court in thoſe Days, but the Spirit and Genius of the magnanimous Founder. The Chapel is not only fine within, but the Workmanſhip without is extra⯑ordinary; nothing ſo antient is to be ſeen ſo beauti⯑ful. King's-College Chapel at Cambridge, built by Henry VI. and Henry VII.'s Chapel in Weſtminſter-Abbey, are fine Buildings; but they are modern, compared to this, which was begun, as by the inſcribed Dates upon the Walls appears, in the Year 1337.

[80]The Coats of Arms, and the various Imagery and other Ornaments both inſide and outſide, not only of the King, but of ſeveral of the firſt Knights Companions, are wonderfully finiſhed, and the Work has ſtood out againſt the Injury of Time to Admiration.

'Tis obſervable, that King Edward owns this Chapel was begun by his Anceſtors, and ſome think it was by King Edward I. and that he himſelf was baptized in it, and there was a Caſtle built by William the Conqueror alſo: As to the Chapel, which was then called a Church, or a Convent, King Edward III. did not pull down the old Building in⯑tirely; but he added all the Choir to the firſt Model, and ſeveral other proper Parts for the Purpoſes in⯑tended, as Houſes and handſome Apartments for the Canons, Dignitaries, and other Perſons belonging to the Church, which are generally ſituated on the North Side of the Square, out of Sight, or rather ſkreened from the common View by the Church itſelf; which Dwellings are notwithſtanding very good, and well accommodated for the Perſons who are Poſſeſſors of them; then the King finiſhed it in the Manner we now ſee it: As for the old Caſtle, the Building of William the Conqueror, the King pulled it down to the Foundation, forming a new Building according to the preſent Plan, and which ſtood, as above, to the Time of King Charles II. without any Alteration.

The Eſtabliſhment for this Chapel was very con⯑ſiderable, by the Donation of divers Subjects, before it was ſet apart to be the Chapel of the Order: the Duke of Suffolk in particular, as appears in Dug⯑dale's Monaſticon, gave near 3000 Acres of Land, 19 Manors, 170 Meſſuages and Tofts, and ſeveral Ad⯑vowſons of Churches, to it; which, with other Gifts afterwards, made the Revenue above 1000l. a Year in thoſe Days, which was a prodigious Sum, as Money went at that Time.

[81]In the Choir are the Stalls for the Knights of the Order, with a Throne for the Sovereign; alſo Stalls in the Middle of it for the poor Knights-Penſioners, who live in their Houſe or Hoſpital on the South Side of the Square or Court in which the Church ſtands.

Here are to be ſeen the Banners of the Knights who now enjoy the Honour of the Garter: When they die, thoſe Banners are taken down, and the Coat of Arms of the deceaſed Knight ſet up in the Place allotted for thoſe Arms over the ſame Stall: ſo thoſe Coats of Arms are a living Hiſtory, or rather a Record of all the Knights, that ever have been ſince the firſt Inſtitution of the Order, and how they ſucceeded one another; by which it appears, that Kings, Emperors, and Sovereign Princes, have not thought it below them to accept of the Honour of being Knights Companions of the Order, while at the ſame time it muſt be noted, to the Honour of the Engliſh Crown, that our Kings have never thought fit to accept of any of their Orders abroad, of what Kind ſoever; whereas there is an Account in the Regiſtry of the Order, that there are reckoned up of this moſt Noble Company,

• 8 Emperors of Germany.
• 3 Kings of Sweden.
• 5 Kings of Denmark.
• 2 Kings of Pruſſia.
• 3 Kings of Spain.
• 6 Princes of Orange.
• 5 Kings of France.
• 4 Peers of France.
• A King of Scotland, be⯑ſides James VI.
• 5 Kings of Portugal.
• A King of Poland.
• 2 Kings of Naples.
• A King of Arragon.
• 3 Infants of Portugal.
• A Prince of Denmark.
• A Biſhop of Oſnabrug.
• 5 Princes of Lunenburg.
• An Elector of Branden⯑burg.
• 7 Electors Palatine.
• 2 Electors of Saxony.
• 2 Dukes of Lorrain.
• 3 Dukes of Wirtenberg.
• 2 Dukes of Holſtein.
• 2 Grandees of Spain.
• 2 Dukes de Urbino.
• A Duke of Savoy.
• A Duke of Saxe Gotha.
• A Prince of Heſſe, &c.

[82]Beſides theſe Foreign Princes, there is a little Galaxy of Engliſh Nobility, the Flower of ſo many Courts, and ſo many Ages, to whoſe Families the Enſigns of the Order have been an Honour, and who are not the leaſt Glory this Order has to boaſt of. But as to the Liſt of the preſent Knights, that being ſubject to Fluctuation, comes not within my Deſign in this Letter.

Several Kings and Perſons of high Rank have been buried alſo in this Chapel, as Edward IV. and Charles I. Here alſo is the Family Burying-place of the Dukes of Beauford, who are a natural Branch of the Royal Family of Lancaſter.

All the Ceremonies obſerved here in the Inſtal⯑ment of the Knights, are ſo perfectly ſet down in Mr. Aſhmole's Hiſtory of the Order of the Garter, that nothing can be ſaid but what muſt be a Copy from him.

As the upper Court and Building are fronted with the fine Terrace, ſo the lower Court, where this beautiful Chapel ſtands, is incompaſſed with a very high Wall, which goes round the Weſt-end of the Court to the Gate; and looking South, leads into the Town, as the Gate of the upper Court looks likewiſe South-eaſt into the little Park.

The Parks about Windſor are very agreeable and ſpacious: the little Park, as it is called, is above 3 Miles round, the great one 14, and the Foreſt above 30. The firſt is particular to the Court; the others are open for Riding, Hunting, and taking the Air, for any Gentlemen that pleaſe.

The Lodges in thoſe Parks may be called Palaces, were they not eclipſed by the Palace itſelf. They have been beautified by the noble Perſons to whom the Poſt of Rangers has been generally aſſigned, who, having been inriched by other Advancements, Honours, and profitable Imployments, thought no⯑thing too much to lay out to adorn their Apartments, [83] in a Place wherein it was ſo much to their Honour, as well as Convenience to reſide: ſuch is the Lodge belonging once to Admiral Churchill, the Ducheſs of Marlborough, and others.

We left Windſor, and ſtruck again into the Lon⯑don Road at Colebrook, and paſſed over the Heath, and thro' the Town of Hounſlow, Brentford, Hamer⯑ſmith, and Kenſington into London.

And here I ſhall conclude this Letter with aſſuring you, that I am, Sir,

LETTER II. CONTAINING A Deſcription of the City of LONDON, as taking in the City of Weſtminſter, Borough of Southwark, and the Build⯑ings circumjacent.

I Am now to deſcribe the City of LONDON, and Parts adjacent: a Work infinitely difficult to be perform'd in the narrow Compaſs of a Letter, ſince we ſee it ſo fully takes up Two large Volumes in Folio, which yet, if I may venture to give an Opinion of it, is very imperfectly executed, and has imploy'd ſince another very large one in Folio, written by Mr. W. Maitland, F. R. S. which has much more Merit than the Two Volumes, and contains many Things needful to be known by the Curious, which are in⯑compatible with the Brevity to which our narrow Limits confine us.

LONDON, as a City only, and as its Walls and Liberties line it out, might indeed be viewed in a ſmaller Compaſs, than what we propoſe to conſider it in; for when I ſpeak of London, in the modern [85] Acceptation, I take in all that vaſt Maſs of Buildings reaching from Blackwall in the Eaſt, to Tothill-fields in the Weſt; and extended in an unequal Breadth from the Bridge or River in the South, to Iſlington North; and from Peterborough-houſe on the Bank⯑ſide in Weſtminſter, to Cavendiſh-ſquare; and all the new Buildings by and beyond Groſvenor and Hanover Squares to the Brentford Road one way, to the Acton Road another; a Prodigy of Buildings, that nothing in the World does, or ever did, ſurpaſs, except old Rome in Trajan's Time, when the Walls of that City were 50 Miles in Compaſs, and the Number of Inhabitants 6,800,000 Souls.

London, as to its Figure, muſt be owned to be very irregular, as it is ſtretch'd out in Buildings juſt at the Pleaſure of every Undertaker of them, and as the Convenience of the People directs, whether for Trade, or otherwiſe. This has given it a very confuſed Face, and made it uncompact and unequal, being properly neither long or broad, round or ſquare; whereas the City of Rome, was, in a man⯑ner, round, with very few Irregularities in its Shape.

One ſees London, including the Buildings on both Sides the Water, in ſome Places Three Miles broad, as from St. George's in Southwark, to Shoreditch in Middleſex; or Two Miles, as from Peterborough-houſe to Montague-houſe; and in ſome Places not half a Mile, as in Wapping; and leſs in Rotherhith.

We ſee ſeveral Villages, formerly ſtanding, as it were, in the Country, and at a great Diſtance, now joined to the Streets by continued Buildings, and more making haſte to meet in the like manner; for Example,

1. Deptford: This Town was formerly reckoned at leaſt Two Miles from Rotherhith, and that over the Marſhes too, a Place unlikely ever to be inha⯑bited; and yet now, by the Increaſe of Buildings in that Town itſelf, and the many Streets erected at [86] Rotherhith, and by the Docks and Building-yards on the River-ſide, which ſtand between both, the Town of Deptford, and the Streets of Rotherhith, are in a manner joined, and the Buildings daily increaſing; ſo that Deptford may be reckoned a Part of the great Maſs, and infinitely full of People alſo; and were the Town of Deptford now ſeparated, and rated by itſelf, I believe it contains more People, and ſtands upon more Ground than the City of Wells.

2. The Town of Iſlington, on the North-ſide of the City, is in like manner joined to the Streets of Lon⯑don, excepting one ſmall Field, and which is in itſelf ſo ſmall, that there is no Doubt but in a very few Years they will be intirely joined. And the ſame may be ſaid,

3. Of Mile-end, on the Eaſt End of the Town.

4. Newington-butts, in Surrey, reaches out her Hand North, and is ſo joining to Southwark, that it cannot now be properly called a Town by itſelf, but a kind of Suburb to the Borough; and if, as once was talk'd of, St. George's-fields ſhould be built into Squares and Streets, Newington, Lambeth, and the Borough, would make but one Southwark.

That Weſtminſter is in a fair way to ſhake Hands with Chelſea, as St. Gyles's is with Marybone; and Great Ruſſel-ſtreet by Montague-houſe, with Totten⯑ham-court, is very evident; and yet all theſe put together, may ſtill be called London: Whither will this City then extend, and where muſt a Circum⯑vallation Line of it be placed?

I have, as near as I could, cauſed a Meaſure to be taken of this mighty Body; and for the Satiſ⯑faction of your Curioſity, I have here given as accurate a Deſcription of it, as I can do in ſo narrow a Com⯑paſs, or without drawing a Plan of the Places.

As I am forced, in many Places, to take in ſome unbuilt Ground, ſo I have, on the other hand, been obliged to leave a great many whole Streets of Build⯑ings [87] out of my Line: ſo that I have really not ſtretched my Calculations, to make it ſeem bigger than it is; nor is there any Occaſion for it.

And here having exceeded all Bounds of a Letter, for which however the Subject is an Excuſe, I will cloſe my Account of this famous Metropolis, and with it my Letter: being, Sir,

LETTER III. CONTAINING A Deſcription of Part of Middleſex; and of the whole County of Hertford.

THE Villages round London partake of the Influence of London, as I have taken Notice in the Counties of Eſ⯑ſex, Kent, and Surrey.

Hackney and Bromley are the firſt Villages which begin the County of Middleſex, Eaſt: for Bow, as reckon'd to Stepney, is a Part of the great Maſs. This Town of Hackney is of great Extent, containing no leſs than Twelve Hamlets or ſeparate Villages, tho' ſome of them now join, viz.

• Church-ſtreet,
• Homerton,
• Wyck-houſe,
• Grove-ſtreet,
• Clapton,
• Mare-ſtreet,
• Well-ſtreet,
• Cambridge-heath,
• Shaklewell,
• Dalſtone,
• Kingſland,
• Newington.

All theſe, though ſome of them are very large Villages, make up but one Pariſh, and are within a few Years ſo increaſed in Buildings, and ſo well in⯑habited, that there is no Compariſon to be made [155] between their preſent and former State; every ſepa⯑rate Hamlet being increaſed, and ſome of them more than trebly bigger than formerly they were.

Hackney is ſo remarkable for the Retreat of wealthy Citizens, that there are at this time near an Hundred Coaches kept in it.

Newington, Tottenham, Edmonton, and Enfield, ſtand all in a Line North from the City. The Increaſe of Buildings is ſo great in them all, that they ſeem to a Traveller to be one continu'd Street; eſpecially Tottenham and Edmonton; and in them all, the new Buildings ſo far exceed the old, eſpecially in their Value, and the Figure of the Inhabitants, that the Faſhion of the Town is quite altered.

At Tottenham we ſee the Remains of an antient Building call'd the Croſs, from which the Town takes the Name of High-Croſs. Here is a ſmall, but pleaſant Seat of the Earl of Colerain.

Highgate and Hamſtead are next on the North-ſide. At the firſt is a very beautiful Houſe built by the late Sir William Aſhurſt, on the very Summit of the Hill, and with a View from the very loweſt Windows over the whole Vale, to the City: and that ſo eminently, that they ſee the Ships paſſing up and down the River, for Twelve or Fifteen Miles below London.

As the County does not extend far this way, I take no notice of ſmaller Towns; nor is there any thing of Note but Citizens Houſes for ſeveral Miles; except the Chace, at Enfield, which was a very beau⯑tiful Place, when King James I. reſided at Theobalds, for the Pleaſure of his Hunting; and was then very full of Deer, and all ſorts of Game; but it has ſuf⯑fered ſeveral Depredations ſince that, and particu⯑larly in the Times of Uſurpation, when it was ſtript both of Game and Timber, and let out in Farms to Tenants for the Uſe of the Publick.

[156]After the Reſtoration it was laid open again; Woods and Groves were every-where planted, and the whole Chace ſtored with Deer: but it is not, nor perhaps ever will be, what it was.

Hampſtead is riſen from a little Village, almoſt to a City; nor could the uneven Surface, inconvenient for Building, check the Humour of the Builders; for even on the very Steep of the Hill, where there's no walking Twenty Yards together, without tug⯑ing up, or ſtraddling down a Hill, the Buildings are increaſed to that Degree, that the Town almoſt ſpreads the whole Side of the Hill.

The Heath extends about a Mile every way, and affords a moſt beautiful Proſpect; for we ſee here Hanſlop Steeple one way, which is within Eight Miles of Northampton, N. W. to Landown-hill in Eſſex, another way Eaſt, at leaſt Sixty-ſix Miles from one another. The Proſpect to London, and beyond it to Banſtead-downs, South; Shooters-hill, South-eaſt; Red-hill, South-weſt, and Windſor-Caſtle, Weſt, is alſo uninterrupted. Indeed, due North, we ſee no farther than to Barnet, which is no [...]ove Six Miles from it.

At the Foot of this Hill is an old Seat of the Earls of Cheſterfield, called Bel-ſize; which for many Years had been neglected: but being tenanted by a certain Projector, who knew by what Handle to take the gay Part of the World, he made it a Houſe of Pleaſure and Entertainment: this brought a wonder⯑ful Concourſe of People to the Place; and they were effectually gratified in all Sorts of Diverſion; but there being too great a Licence uſed, it alarm'd the Magiſtrates, and now the Houſe is haſtening apace to Ruin.

Beſides the Long Room at Hampſtead, in which the Company meet publickly on a Monday Evening to play at Cards, &c. Mr. Vipand, the Maſter of that, built in the Year 1735, a fine Aſſembly-room, [157] Sixty Feet long, and Thirty wide, elegantly deco⯑rated; every one who does not ſubſcribe, pays half a Crown for Admittance. Every Gentleman who ſubſcribes a Guinea for the Seaſon, has a Ticket for himſelf, and for Two Ladies. Gentlemen and La⯑dies, who lodge in the Town, are entertain'd every Sunday for 6d. each, with Tea and Coffee; but no other Amuſements.

I could not be at Hamſtead without making an Excurſion to Edgworth, a little Market-town, on the Road to St. Albans; for 'tis certain, that this was formerly the main Road from London to St. Alban's, being the famous high Road, call'd Wat⯑ling-ſtreet, which reached from London to Shrews⯑bury, and on towards Wales.

Near this Town, the Duke of Chandos has built one of the moſt magnificent Palaces in England, with a Profuſion of Expence, and ſo well furniſh'd within, that it has hardly its Equal in England. The Plaiſtering and Gilding are done by the famous Pargotti, an Italian. The great Salon or Hall is painted by Paolucci. The Pillars ſupporting the Building are all of Marble: the great Stair-caſe is extremely fine; and the Steps are all of Marble, every Step being of one whole Piece, about Twenty-two Feet in Length.

The Avenue is ſpacious and majeſtick, and as it gives you the View of Two Fronts, join'd, as it were, in one, the Diſtance not admitting you to ſee the Angle, which is in the Centre; ſo you are agreeably drawn in, to think the Front of the Houſe almoſt twice as large as it is.

And yet, when you come nearer, you are again ſurpriſed, by ſeeing the winding Paſſage opening, as it were, a new Front to the Eye, of near 120 Feet wide, which you had not ſeen before; ſo that you are loſt a while in looking near hand for what you ſo evidently ſaw a great way off.

[158]The Gardens are well deſigned, and have a vaſt Variety, and the Canals are very large and noble.

The Chapel is a Singularity, both in its Building, and the Beauty of its Workmanſhip; and the Duke uſed to maintain there a full Choir, and had the Worſhip perform'd with the beſt Muſick, after the manner of the Chapel Royal.

Two Miles from hence, we go up a ſmaller Aſcent by the great Road; when leaving the Street Way on the Right, we enter a ſpacious Common called Buſhy-heath, where again we have a very agreeable Proſpect. On the Right-hand, we have in View the Town of St. Alban's; and all the Spaces between, and further beyond it, look like a Garden. The incloſed Corn-fields make one grand Parterre: the thick-planted Hedge-rows ſeem like a Wilderneſs or Labyrinth; the Villages interſpers'd, look like ſo many ſeveral noble Seats of Gentlemen at a Di⯑ſtance. In a Word, it is all Nature, and yet looks like Art. On the Left-hand we ſee the Weſt-end of London, Weſtminſter Abbey, and the Parliament-Houſe; but the Body of the City is cut off by the Hill, at which Hampſtead intercepted the Sight on that Side. More to the South we have Hampton-Court, and S. W. Windſor, and between both, thoſe beautiful Parts of Middleſex and Surrey, on the Bank of the Thames, which are the moſt agreeable in the World. But I muſt travel no farther this Way, till I have taken a Journey Weſt from Lon⯑don, and ſeen what the Country affords that Way.

The next Towns adjacent to London, are Ken⯑ſington, Chelſea, Hamerſmith, Fulham, Brentford, Twickenham, &c. all of them near, or adjoining to the River of Thames, and which, by the Beauty of their Buildings, make good the North Shore of the River, anſwerable to what I have already deſcrib'd.

[159]But here I ought not to omit mentioning the new Bridge from Fulham to Putney, croſs the Thames, which is a handſome wooden Fabrick, and as con⯑venient, by its many angular Indentings, for Foot-paſſengers, as for Horſes and Coaches. A Toll is paid for every one that paſſes it, let it be ever ſo often in a Day; and the Rate pretty much the ſame as the Ferry uſed to be. And as the Proprietors are ſaid to divide 10 or 12l. per Cent. from the Profits of it, 'tis pity, methinks, that Foot-paſſengers, who cannot wear the Bridge, ſhould pay at all.

Kenſington cannot be nam'd without mentioning the King's Palace there: it was originally an old Houſe of the Earl of Nottingham's, of whom the late King William bought it, and then inlarg'd it as we ſee; ſome of the old Building ſtill remaining in the Centre of the Houſe.

The Houſe itſelf fronts to the Garden Three Ways, the Gardens being now made exceeding fine, and inlarged to ſuch a Degree, as to reach quite from the great Road in Kenſington Town, to the Action Road North, more than a Mile, beſides a great Track of Ground out of Hyde-Park. An artificial Mount is alſo erected, which affords a fine View, is planted with Ever-greens, and has a Seat upon it, which turns round with great Eaſe at Pleaſure. The noble River that is lately dug in Hyde-Park, affords a fine View from theſe beautiful Gardens. The firſt laying out of theſe Gardens was the Deſign of the late Queen Mary, who finding the Air agreed with the King, reſolved to make it agreeable to herſelf too, and gave the firſt Orders for inlarging them.

The late Queen Anne improv'd what Queen Mary began, and delighted very much in the Place; and often was pleaſed to make the Green-houſe, which is very beautiful, her Summer Supper-houſe.

And her late Majeſty Queen Caroline completed the Whole, by the Additions juſt now mention'd.

[160]King William, Prince George of Denmark, and Queen Anne, dy'd here.

As this Palace opens to the Weſt, there are Two great Wings built, for receiving ſuch as neceſſari⯑ly attend the Court, and a large Port-cocher at the Entrance, with a Poſtern, and a Stone Gallery, on the South-ſide of the Court, which leads to the great Stair-caſe.

It is no Wonder, the Court being ſo much at Ken⯑ſington, that the Town has increaſed in Buildings; and indeed it abounds with handſome Houſes, and has a very pretty Square.

South of this Town ſtands Chelſea, at which Place is the nobleſt Building, and one of the beſt Foundations of its kind in the World, for maimed and old Soldiers, built by Sir Chriſtopher Wren.

Here alſo are the Phyſick-gardens belonging to the Company of Apothecaries of London. In it is lately built a ſtately and convenient Edifice, which ſerves at the ſame time for a Green-houſe, and Apart⯑ments over it for meeting of the Company of Apo⯑thecaries, &c. and over them are very convenient Apartments, which may be uſed for drying Seeds of Plants, &c. As this Ground was made a Preſent by Sir Hans Sloane, they have erected in the new Building, a Statue of that Gentleman; and intend to make, in due Time, an Opening down to the River, which will have a beautiful Effect upon the Thames, and receive no leſs Grace from it. On the Pedeſtal of this Statue is an Inſcription expreſſing the Company's Gratitude to Sir Hans.

Near the Royal Hoſpital was, till very lately, a neat and beautiful Houſe and Gardens built by the late Earl of Ranelagh; but they are now quite de⯑ſtroyed, being ſold out in Parcels to Builders, and other Purchaſers.

Sir Robert Walpole has a fine Houſe here, and good Gardens, adjoining to the Hoſpital, adorn'd with noble Pictures, &c.

[161]In ſhort there is an incredible Number of fine Houſes built in all theſe Towns within theſe few Years, which in other Places would paſs, in a man⯑ner, for Palaces; and moſt of the Poſſeſſors whereof keep Coaches.

Among theſe are the late Lord Peterborough's at Parſons-Green; Lord Halifax's at Buſhy-Park; Earl of Bradford's, Earl of Strafford's, Earl of Shrewſbury's, Earl of Burlington's, Sutton-Court Chiſwick, Mr. Barker's, Lord Wilmington's, Gene⯑ral Whetham's, Holland-Houſe, near Kenſington, ſituated on a fine Eminence, and which now is taken by the Lord Bruce, who is making it once more a delightful Habitation; the late Secretary Johnſon's, at Twickenham, and Multitudes of others.

But I muſt not paſs over ſo ſlightly the noble Seat of the Right Hon. the Earl of Burlington, at Chiſ⯑wick; and yet I can only mention curſorily ſome of its Beauties: as the River his Lordſhip has dug in his Gardens, a very fine one indeed; from the Earth of which he has formed a noble Mount next the Road, or rather a Terrace, from which the whole Country may be viewed, and which ſerves at the ſame time, for a Defence to his Gardens on that Side, and is planted to the Road with all manner of ſweet Shrubs, Roſes, Honeyſuckles, &c. that yield in the Seaſon a delightful Fragrance, as well to the Paſſengers as to thoſe on the Terrace; the magnificent Buildings in Imitation of antient Temples, &c. interſperſed in the Gardens; the beautiful Bridge over the River in it; the fine Walks; the unbounded Proſpects; ſeve⯑ral curious Statues, a noble Obeliſk, delicate Viſtas, and the ſumptuous Buildings adjoining to the old Houſe, commanding a fine View to the River; which, with the Pictures and valuable Curioſities withinſide, altogether exceed Deſcription.

In the Village of Hamerſmith, which was former⯑ly a long ſcattering Place, full of Gardeners Grounds, [162] with here and there an old Houſe of ſome Bulk, we ſee now great Numbers of fine Houſes, and a continued Range of a great Length, which makes the main Street.

I have now travers'd the beſt Part of Middleſex, a County made rich, pleaſant and populous, by the Neighbourhood of London. The Borders of the County have Three Market-towns, Stanes, Colbrook and Uxbridge: this laſt is a pleaſant large Town, full of good Inns, as the others are, and famous, in particular, for having abundance of fine Seats of Gentlemen, and Perſons of Quality, in the Neigh⯑bourhood; and alſo for a vain Attempt made in the great Civil War, to ſettle the Peace of theſe Na⯑tions by a Treaty here. I ſhould never have done, were I to pretend to deſcribe, tho' ever ſo ſlightly, the large Towns on both Sides the River; as

• Lambeth,
• Batterſea,
• Wandſworth,
• Fulham,
• Putney,
• Barnet,
• Roehampton,
• Hamerſmith,
• Mortlack,
• Brentford,
• Kew,
• Richmond,
• Iſleworth,
• Twickenham,
• Padington,
• Acton,
• Ealing,

where a new Church is juſt finiſh'd; and others all crouded and ſurrounded with fine Houſes, or rather Palaces, of the Nobility, Quality and Gentry of England.

There are but Three more Market-towns in the County, viz. Brentford, the County-town, Edg⯑worth, and Enfield.

And now I enter the County of Hertford, a fruitful Soil, as it is managed; for 'tis certain, it is more indebted, for its Fertility, to the Sagacity and Induſtry of the Huſbandman, than to Nature. Rich Meadows are ſeldom found here; for it affords not any large Rivers: the Arable hath generally too much Gravel, or too much Clay; but theſe laſt cold [163] and wet Lands have been within theſe Forty Years greatly improv'd by draining off the Rain-water, which ſtagnated on the clayey Surface, as in a Cup, and chilled the Roots of the Corn; an Invention, called Buſh-draining.

The County is well-water'd for the Conveniency of the Inhabitants; tho' the Lea is the only navigable Stream in it, which has its Riſe in Bedfordſhire; of which more anon. But this County aſſumes the Honour of giving Riſe unto ſeveral Rivers, viz. the Pariſh of Tring to the Thames, which leaving the County at Putenham, goes by Ayleſhury to Thame, and thence by Wheatley-bridge to Dorcheſter, and falls into the Iſis.

The County may be divided into Three Parts pretty equal, by Two great Roads, one Part lying between the North Road, which goes thro' Hert⯑ford to Nottingham, &c. and the Borders of Cam⯑bridgeſhire North, and thoſe of Eſſex Eaſt. Another Part lying between that Road and the other, which leads thro' St. Alban's to Coventry and Cheſter; and the third lying between this laſt Road, and the Bor⯑ders of Middleſex South, and thoſe of Bucks Weſt.

I ſhall begin with the laſt at Eaſt-Barnet, a Thoroughfare-town of Note, and well ſupplied with Inns: it lies high and pleaſant, and was formerly frequented for its medicinal Waters, and now for its Swine-market. It has in its Neighbourhood ſeveral very handſome Houſes of the Londoners, and which are the more pleaſant by being ſo near the Chace.

Totteridge is near it alſo, and is a very pleaſant Village. It is ſituated on a fine Eminence looking to the North, over the St. Alban's Road into the Foreſt; and on the South over the Edgware Road, to Har⯑row, &c. It is very clean, and has ſeveral very good Houſes in it. The Road from Hampſtead here is extremely pleaſant, and ſo well repaired, that in the worſt Seaſon there is ſcarce any Water or Dirt [164] remaining in it; and as it lies not on any great Road, there are no heavy Carriages paſſing that Way; therefore a ſmall Expence annually, well laid out, will always keep this Road in excellent Repair.

Cheaping-Barnet lies a little North, in the St. Al⯑ban's Road, and is remarkable for the deciſive Battle fought there on Eaſter-day 1468, between the Houſes of York and Lancaſter, in which the great Earl of War⯑wick, ſtyled Make-king, was killed, with many of the prime Nobility, and 10,000 Men. The Place ſup⯑poſed to be the Field of Battle, is a green Spot near Kicks-End, between St. Alban's and Hatfield Roads, a little before they meet. The Manor is in the Property of the Duke of Chandois. A handſome Row of Six Alms-houſes, for ſo many Widows, founded by James Ravenſcroft, Eſq in 1672, with a little Furniture to each, is in the Street. Queen Elizabeth built a Free School-houſe of Brick in the ſame Street, where Nine Children are taught gratis, and all other Boys at Five Shillings the Quarter.

About Two Miles N. W. from hence, on the Left-hand, lies Durhams, formerly the Seat of the Auſtins, but is now the Property of the Earl of Albemarle, who purchaſed it of Sir John Auſtin, and has ſince greatly beautified the Seat, by laying moſt of the neighbouring Fields belonging to the Eſtate, into a Park, and turning and repairing of the Roads. The Houſe ſtands on an Eminence, ſituated in a ſmall Valley, ſurrounded with pretty high Hills at a little Diſtance, ſo that in the Summer Months it is an agreeable Retirement: but the Soil all round it being a ſtrong Clay, all the Rain which falls in Win⯑ter being detained on the Surface, renders the Situa⯑tion very cold and moiſt. Add to this the Want of good Water, and Timber near the Houſe, (except the young Trees which have been planted by his Lordſhip) and upon the Whole it cannot be eſteemed a good Seat.

[165] Idleſtrey or Elſtre is a Village on the Roman Wat⯑ling-ſtreet, on the very Edge of Middleſex; but it is chiefly noted for its Situation, near Brockly-Hill, by Stanmore, which affords a lovely View croſs Middleſex, over the Thames, into Surrey. Near this is Kendale Wood, where formerly was found an old Flint Wall, ſo hard as not to yield to the Strokes of the Pick-ax; as likewiſe an Oven. Mr. Philpot digging his Canal and Foundations for his Buildings, upon the Spot of the old City, Suellaniacis, found many Coins, Urns, and other Antiquities. They have a Proverb here, relating to the Antiquities:

Pennywel is a Parcel of Cloſes acroſs the Valley beyond Brockley-Hill, where Foundations are diſ⯑cernible, and where, they ſay, has been a City.

About Two Miles further Weſt lies Watford, a Market-town, Seventeen Miles from London, upon the Colne, where it hath Two Streams, which run ſeparately to Rickmerſworth. Several Alms-houſes belong to this Town, and an handſome Free-ſchool, built in 1704, and finiſh'd 1709, by Elizabeth Fuller, Widow; and in the Church are ſeveral handſome Monuments. The Town is very long, having but one Street, which is the publick, and ſo is extreme⯑ly dirty in Winter; and the Waters of the River, at the Entrance of the Town, are often ſo much ſwelled by Floods, as to be unpaſſable; and the Bridge deſigned as the Road at ſuch times, is ſo much out of Repair, that it is very dangerous for any Carriages of Burthen to paſs over it; which is a very great Diſadvantage to the Town.

Caſſioberry, the Seat of the Earl of Eſſex, is the next thing that occurs worth notice, and is elegant. The Situation is the beſt in the County, upon a dry Spot, within a Park of a large Extent: the [166] Houſe is built in Form of an H: the Middle and the Eaſt Wing is modern, and in good Repair; but the Weſt Wing is very old, and by no means cor⯑reſponding with the other Parts of the Houſe. The Front faces the South-eaſt, and looks directly on the Houſe in Moore-Park, on which the late Mr. Stiles expended ſuch great Sums of Money, and which has a noble Look from Caſſioberry Houſe. In the Front of the Houſe is a fine dry Lawn of Graſs, which immediately after the heavieſt Winter Rains may be rode or walked on, as on the drieſt Downs; and a little below the Houſe is a River, which winds through the Park, and in the drieſt Seaſons conſtantly runs with a fine Stream, affording great Plenty of Trout, Cray-fiſh, and indeed moſt other kinds of freſh-water Fiſh. On the North and Eaſt Sides of the Houſe are large Wood-walks, which were planted by the famous Le Notre, in the Reign of Charles II. The Woods have many large Beech and Oak-trees in them; but the principal Walks are planted with Lime-trees, and theſe are moſt of them too narrow for their Length, and too regular for the modern Taſte. On the other Side of the River, the Ground riſes to a conſiderable Height, which affords an agreeable Variety; part of which being covered with ſtately Woods, appearing at a proper Diſtance from the Front of the Houſe, have a fine Effect to the Eye. In ſhort, the whole Spot (if a ſmall Expence was beſtow'd to improve and put it more in the modern Taſte) would be one of the fineſt Places near London.

Near Caſſioberry is a pleaſant Seat, purchaſed by the late Lord Raymond, called Langleybury.

Rickmerſworth is a Market-town, within Three or Four Miles Weſt of Watford. It gave Birth to Sir Thomas White, Merchant-Taylor of London, who founded Glouceſter Hall, and St. John's Col⯑lege [167] in Oxford. Here are Two Alms-houſes, one for Four, the other for Five Widows.

We viſited in this Neighbourhood More-Park, with a fine Houſe in it, of the late Duke of Mon⯑mouth, ſtanding upon the Side of the Hill, facing Caſſioberry, on the other Side the River. It has been allowed one of the beſt Pieces of Brick-work in England. Sir William Temple commends the Garden as one of the beſt laid-out in England. The Ducheſs of Monmouth, on whom it was ſettled by Marriage, ſold it in 1720, to Benjamin-Heſkins Stiles, Eſq who has made it a magnificent Edifice, having built a South Front of Stone with Colon⯑nades, by which an Opening is made thro' the Hill that once obſtructed its View toward Uxbridge. A North Front is alſo erected, and the Hill towards Watford cut thro' for a Viſta. The Inſide of the Houſe is alſo adorned with admirable Work of Paint⯑ing. In digging this Hill, Veins of Sea-ſand with Muſcles in it were found.

Abbots-Langley, Twenty-two Miles from London, ſituated about Three Miles North of Caſſioberry, in a good Air and Soil, is remarkable for the Birth of an Engliſh Pope, Nicolas Brakeſpear, by the Title of Adrian IV. The Emperor Frederick held his Stirrup, while he diſmounted. He was choaked, as ſome ſay, by a Fiſh, and, as others, by a Quinſy: but it is an indelible Stain on his Memory, that, when ſovereign Pontiff, he ſuffer'd his Mother to be main⯑tain'd by the Alms of the Church of Canterbury.

We proceeded to Kings-Langley, ſo called, be⯑cauſe Henry III. built himſelf a Royal Houſe here, of which the Ruins ſtill exiſt: and here was born and buried Edmund de Langley, Duke of York, Fifth Son of Edward III. and his Wife Iſabel, youngeſt Daughter of Don Pedro, King of Caſtile, was alſo buried here, and the Tomb is in the Church of this Place.

[168]We next went to Hempſted, a little further North, and about Twenty-three Miles from London, a Baili⯑wick Corporate Town. It has the greateſt Corn-market in the County, or perhaps in England; in which 20,000l. a Week are frequently returned for Meal only. Eleven Pair of Mills ſtand within Four Miles of the Place, which bring a great Trade to it: but the Road is by this means ſo continually torn, that it is one of the worſt Turnpikes round about London.

A little North of Hempſted we turn'd Weſt, and came to Great Barkhamſted, about Twenty-four computed Miles from London. It is a very antient Town, which for many Hundred of Years has been one of the Crown Manors, which granted to it many very ample Privileges. It is now annexed to the Dukedom of Cornwall, and as ſuch appro⯑priated to the Princes of Wales. The Caſtle and Manor are at preſent held by Leaſe from the Prince, by Edward Carey, Eſq which was obtained by his Anceſtors of Queen Elizabeth.

Barkhamſted has evidently been a Roman Town, by the Name of Durobrivae; and probably the Caſtle ſtands upon a Roman Foundation. Roman Coins are frequently dug up there. It is moſt plea⯑ſantly inviron'd with high and hard Ground, full of Hedge-rows, Paſtures, and Arable, tho' ſituated upon a South-ſide of a Marſh. It extends itſelf far in handſome Buildings, and a broad Street In the Time of the Heptarchy it was the Reſidence of the Kings of Mercia; and here Wightred King of Kent and Mercia, in the Year 69, held a Parliament: here alſo King Ina's Laws were publiſh'd.

The Caſtle was judiciouſly ſet on the North-ſide of the Town, on dry Ground, amongſt Springs, and made exceedingly ſtrong by the Saxons. It was rebuilt by Moreton, Earl of Cornwall, Brother to William the Conqueror, and razed for Rebellion in his [169] Son's Time, and ſo with the Manor fell to the Crown. Henry II. kept his Court here, and granted great Privileges to the Place. The Caſtle was after⯑wards rebuilt, as it is thought, in the Reign of King John, for the Dauphin of France, in Conjunction with the Barons, beſieg'd it, and the Defendants ſurrender'd not till they had the King's Orders for it.

When the Caſtle was demoliſh'd, a large Houſe was built out of its Ruins, which is beautifully ſituated. What now remains of it is but the third Part, and the Back of the great Houſe; for the other two Thirds were deſtroyed by Fire in the Reign of Charles I. It was in King James's Time a Nurſery for that Prince's Children; and Prince Henry and Prince Charles were bred up there; and in the Time of the late Troubles, Colonel Axtel, a Parliament Officer, held it. It is now in the Poſ⯑ſeſſion of the Roper Family.

The Corporation ſunk in the War between the King and Parliament. In King Charles II.'s Time an Attempt was made to revive the Charter; but it was dropt. This Body Politick is now reduced to a Skeleton, like the Caſtle, which is only to be known by its Moats and Walls.

The Caſtle contains within its firſt Moat, Four or Five Acres. There is again a Diviſion by another Moat. The South Part, conſiſting of about Two Acres, is upon a Level with moſt of the outward Walls and Chimneys remaining. Towards the North, acroſs a Moat, is a high Hill or Keep, capable of defending itſelf againſt the former, if poſſeſſed by an Enemy. The Traces of the Bridge of Com⯑munication, and the Moat dividing theſe Two Places of Strength, are continued to the grand one, that takes in the whole Scite of the Fortification. The Remains of the Bridge for Entrance from the Town, [170] are viſible, anſwering exactly to the other, as the North of the firſt Area, which led to the Hills.

In this Town was the famous Interview between William the Conqueror and the Engliſh Nobility, in his March towards London, after his Victory over Harold. He paſſed the Thames at Wallingford, and was going forward to St. Albans, when the ſtout Abbot Frederick ſtopp'd his March by Trees, &c. till he could get the Engliſh Nobility together, and then he made him ſwear to keep inviolably the good and antient Laws of the Kingdom; yet he took away all their Lands, and divided them among his hungry Normans.

This Town gives Name to the Deanry. The Church is handſome, dedicated to St. Peter; it has had many Chapels and Oratories. On the Pillars of the Church are the Eleven Apoſtles, with each of them a Sentence of the Creed, and St. George killing a Dragon, on the Twelfth. Theſe were whited over by the Zeal of the late Times, and are but lately come to Light.

The Chapel of St. John is uſed only by the Ma⯑ſter, Uſhers and Scholars of the Free-School. St. Leonard's Hoſpital was at the South-eaſt End of the High-ſtreet, and St. James's Hoſpital at the other End. The Free Grammar-School was built by Dean Incent, of St. Paul's. It is a handſome Brick Structure, with an Apartment at one End for the Maſter, at the other for the Uſher and Chantry-Clerk. It was Twenty Years in Building.

They have had other large Benefactions, which we have not room for.

Tring, being Twenty-eight computed Miles from London, is a ſmall Market-town, ſtands upon the Extremity of Hertfordſhire, next to Buckinghamſhire, Eaſt of and near the Ikening-ſtreet.

It is very antient, and was formerly a Royal Manor; but now poſſeſſed by William Gore, Eſq [171] who has made a Park of 300 Acres, of which Part is on the Chiltern. In it is a beautiful Wood in⯑cloſed, lying cloſe to the Ikening-ſtreet. Mr. Gore has beautified and wainſcotted the Church in a moſt elegant Manner, and gives 20l. per Ann. for a Cha⯑rity-School. The Church is a handſome Pile of Building, with a Ring of Six Bells. The Chancel was wainſcotted by Sir Richard Anderſon. It is de⯑cent and capacious, and worthy a Choir. Both Church and Chancel are paved with Free-Stone; the Pillars are painted; the Pulpit and ſounding Board are of fine Inlaid-work; and a handſome Veſtry is under the Belfry.

Among other Monuments is a magnificent one for Sir William Gore and his Lady; with Inſcri⯑ptions to their Honour, but too long for a Place here.

From Tring I paſſed next Eaſtward, and came to Gadeſden-Little; where I had heard was a fine Proſpect; and I wanted not Curioſity to ſee it. This Vill has Cawley-Wood, and Ivingo-Hills on the North-weſt, Aldbury-Cliffs on the South-weſt, Dunſtable-Downs to the North. The Proſpect I mean is from one Part of this Pariſh, to which a Common of fine Turf leads under the Duke of Bridgwater's ſhady Park; and a noble one it is of Three Counties, worthy of the Pencil of the greateſt Artiſt in Landſchape.

The Variety of Woods, Cliffs, Arable and Pa⯑ſture, are charming; but they muſt be tempted to half a Mile's pleaſant Exerciſe to get to the beautiful Scene.

Cawley-Wood belonging to the Duke of Leeds, is a ſmall Covert, a Mile from hence, at the Top of a Hill, in Bucks, one of the greateſt Land-marks in the South of England, which overlooks Eleven Counties. It ſtands as a Monument to ſhew, not⯑withſtanding [172] all the modern Improvements, that Nature will not be out-done by Art.

Now I am on this Subject, I ſhall juſt mention Penley-lodge, for a moſt delightful Retirement to a Man who wants to deceive Life, in an Habitation which has all the Charms Nature can give. There is behind a large Common of fine Turf, bounded on a Wood on the Weſt, to which if one aſcend a Quarter of a Mile, he has a View of Northampton⯑ſhire and Warwickſhire. From the Houſe a Semi⯑circular Proſpect of Bedfordſhire, Middleſex, and Bucks; a bended one towards Ivingo and Aldbury-Cliffs, with the ſhady Woods of the Dukes of Leeds and Bridgwater, ſeeming to hang over the Rivulet called Bulborn.

The Manor of Aldbury lies North-eaſt of Tring, and in the Way to Gadeſden. It belongs to the Duke of Leeds, whoſe Father married the Heireſs of the Family of Hyde; and ſo does Muniborough-Hill lie in the Way from Aldbury to Little-Gadeſden, and affords a handſome Proſpect.

Aſhridge ſtands near Aldbury, but in Bucks, an antient Manſion-houſe and fine Park, belonging to the Duke of Bridgwater.

Gadeſden is famous for the Birth of John de Ga⯑deſden, who flouriſhed in the Beginning of the Fourteenth Century; the firſt Engliſhman who was a Court Phyſician, and of whoſe Skill Chaucer makes honourable mention, in his Doctor of Phyſick, pre⯑fix'd to his Canterbury Tales; though Dr. Freind, from John's own Books, will not allow him to de⯑ſerve it. There are ſeveral Monuments in the Chancel of this Church of the Bridgwater Family, whoſe finely ſituated Seat and Park at Aſhridge, formerly a Royal Houſe of Pleaſure, and where Edward I. held a Parliament in the Nineteenth Year of his Reign, is in this Pariſh, but in the County of [173] Bucks. The Duke is Lord of this Manor, as alſo of that of Great-Gadeſden.

I croſs'd over a Slip (as I may call it) of Bucks, which runs into Hertfordſhire, between Aldbury and Kenſworth-Green, which lies a little South of the Road which leads from St. Alban's to Dunſtable, and is a Situation ſurpriſingly fine, about half a Mile in Length, a good Turf, and level with Whipſnape-Woods on the Back of it, and Rows of high Trees on the other Side. Nothing but Sky is to be ſeen from it one Way, and the other we have only a View of the Top of a Grove, at Market-Cell. It ſeems to claim a Preference of every Place in the County for a Cell, yet never had one on it: it comes very little ſhort of the famous Guy's Cliff, near Warwick. There the ſhady Grove, and rol⯑ling Stream below it, make a beautiful Scene for So⯑litude: here the Woods and Trees afford Shade enough, and the pure circumambient Ether, with nothing in View but the Tops of Trees, would make a Hermit think himſelf in another World.

Here I came into the Road, and ſo turned South-eaſt for St. Alban's, thro' Flamſtead Pariſh, where is a well-built and delightful Seat of Sir Thomas-Saunders Sebright, Bart. on a riſing Ground in the middle of a Park. It is called Beechwood Manor, from the great Number of fine Beech-trees which were formerly growing here, ſome of which are yet remaining on the Sides of the Park. The Soil of this Park is, for the moſt part, dry, the Surface being ſhallow, on a ſtrong or chalky Bot⯑tom, which renders the Turf very fine and ſhort, and very pleaſant for the Exerciſe of either riding or walking. It was formerly a Nunnery for a Prioreſs and Ten Nuns, independent of any other Convent, and then called St. Gyles in the Wood. A very ſerious Inſcription in Flamſtead Church, on a Monument of one of the Saunders Family, may [174] be worth tranſcribing, as it certainly is a Piece of ſound Doctrine, in which every living Man may find an Uſe.

‘"He that looks hereon, may conſider how fleet⯑ing all worldly Comforts are, and how great a Vanity it is to place his Affection thereon. Such Things there are as worldly Comforts, 'tis true; but they ought to be look'd on as little Streams; and whoever delights in them, more than in the FOUNTAIN from whence they proceed, may ſoon find them dry and vaniſhed. The Truth of which he that wrote this, hath ſenſibly found; and wills others to place their Affections chiefly on that OBJECT OF LOVE, which is unchange⯑able, and is the Centre of all true Joy and Felicity."’

Purſuing ſtill the ſame Courſe along the great Road, we came next to St. Alban's, the capital Town of Hertfordſhire, famous for deriving its Name from the Proto-martyr of England, who ſuf⯑fered ſo early in the fourth Century. 'Tis governed by a Mayor, 10 Burgeſſes, a Steward and a Cham⯑berlain, and is a peculiar Liberty both for Eccleſiaſti⯑cal and Civil Government.

The Town roſe out of the Ruins of old Verulam; of which ſo much has been ſaid by Mr. Camden and others, that we refer to them for Particulars. In that great Man's Time, the Ruins afforded much more for the Obſervation of the Curious than now; for they are ſince dug away, for mending the High⯑ways. The firſt Verulam was ſtormed and taken by Julius Caeſar. And here Caſſibelan, a famous Britiſh King, then kept his Court. The firſt Deſtruction of the Place is ſuppoſed to have been by Boadicea, the famous Britiſh Queen, who cut off 70000 Romans in one Battle; and the ſecond, (which was erected on the Ruins of the other) in the Wars between the Britons and Saxons; and al⯑moſt [175] infinite are the Numbers of Antiquities here dug up.

The Origin of St. Alban's was owing to the Monaſtery built by Offa, King of the Mercians, to the Memory of St. Alban, in Expiation of his bar⯑barous Murder of Ethelbert, King of Eaſt-Angles, whom he had treacherouſly inveigled to his Court, on Pretence of marrying his Daughter; and the ſame Offa it was that built Hertford Cathedral, and dedicated it to St. Ethelbert, and made a Journey to Rome as further Penance, where he was abſolved, tho' he kept the murder'd Prince's Dominions, and joined them to his own.

Of all the Monaſteries in England, none could outſhine this. Its Revenue was great, and its Pri⯑vileges ſtill greater. In the Royalties it had from its Founder, and the Epiſcopal Powers from the Pope, none came up to it. The mitred Abbot had Precedency of all in England, and ſubject to no Eccleſiaſtical Power but the Pope immediately; and he had Epiſcopal Juriſdiction over both Clergy and Laity in all the Lands belonging to his Monaſtery. From firſt to laſt they were Forty-one in Number, and many of them Perſons of great Ac⯑compliſhments, and high Birth: the 39th of which, tho' not high-born, was Cardinal Wolſey. The laſt Abbot was Richard Boreman, who at the Diſſolu⯑tion quietly ſurrendred on the Royal Command, and accepted of a Penſion for Life, of 266l. 13s. and 4d.

Two bloody Battles were fought near this Place, between the Houſes of York and Lancaſter; the firſt upon the 23d of May 1455, in which the Yorkiſts got the Day; the ſecond on Shrove-Tueſday, in the 39th of Henry VI. when the martial Queen Margaret overcame the Yorkiſts, who had then the King in their Power, and fought under the Sanction of his Name.

[176]But we muſt not diſmiſs this Subject without giving ſome brief Particulars of the famous Abbey Church. We have before obſerved, that it was founded by King Offa; but it has been rebuilt in Whole or Part ſeveral times. The Town purchaſed it at the Diſſolution, for 400l. which prevented ſo noble a Fabrick being pulled down, and torn to Pieces, for making Money of the Materials; and it is made a Pariſh Church for the Borough. The High Altar is a curious Piece of Gothick Architecture.

Within the North Entrance is Offa on his Throne. Underneath,

That is:

In the moſt Eaſtern Part of the Church ſtood the Shrine: Six Holes remain in the Pavement, where the Supporters of it were fixed. This Inſcription is ſtill to be ſeen. ‘S. ALBANUS VEROLAMENSIS, ANGLORUM
PROTOMARTYR, 17. Junij 293.’

On the South Side the Shrine, in the Wall of the South Iſle, is Duke HUMPHREY's Monument, with the Arms of France and England quartered, and a Ducal Coronet. In Niches on the South Side are 17 Kings; the Niches on the other Side have none remaining.

In Engliſh thus:

It is but little above 30 Years ago, that, digging for a Grave, the Stairs leading down to the Vault where the Body lies, were diſcovered.

In the Vault is a leaden Coffin, with the Body preſerved by the Pickle it lies in, except the Legs, from which the Fleſh is waſted, the Pickle of that End being dried up. On the Wall at the Eaſt End of the Vault is a Crucifix painted, with a Cup on each Side of the Head; another at the Side, and a fourth at the Feet. The Vault is very neat, and hath no offenſive Smell. The Coffin, we are told, had an Outſide of Wood, which is intirely gone.

[178]The Weſt End of the Choir hath a noble Piece of Gothick Workmanſhip for the Ornament of the High Altar. Capt. Polehampton, about 30 Years ago, gave an Altar-piece, which repreſents the laſt Supper.

There are many curious Medals and Coins to be ſeen in the Church, which have been dug out of the Ruins of old Verulam.

This noble Fabrick hath wanted its Abbot's Zeal and Purſe too, for Repairs, ſince it hath been a Pariſh Church. The Roof was preſerved by Con⯑tribution of the Nobility and Gentry of England, many of whoſe Arms are put up on this Occaſion; and Money has been collected ſeveral times beſides for its Support: indeed ſuch a fine Fabrick muſt too often ſtand in need of ſuch Helps, as there is no ſettled Fund to maintain it.

There are Three Churches in the Town at pre⯑ſent, beſides the Abbey Church, viz. St. Michael's above-mentioned, St. Peter's, and St. Stephen's.

There were alſo formerly belonging to this Town St. German's Chapel, St. Mary Magdalen's Chapel, St. Julian's Hoſpital, the Hoſpital of St. Mary des Prees, the Nunnery of Sopwell, &c. But they are all demoliſhed and ſecularized. There was alſo in the Town the Pariſh Church of St. Andrew; but that had dropp'd down before the Diſſolution.

Near this Place is Sopwel Nunnery, where they ſay King Henry was married to Anne of Bolen. In the Heart of the adjoining Corporation ſtood one of Queen Eleanor's Croſſes, demoliſhed by the In⯑habitants.

In the Neighbourhood of St. Alban's is Gorhambury, where is a Statue of King Henry VIII. with other Things worthy a Traveller's Curioſity. It is now the Seat of the Lord Grimſton: but what it will be always moſt famous for, is, that the Manor is the paternal Eſtate of that Mirror of all Ages, and [179] Ornament of his Country for Learning, Francis Bacon, created Lord Verulam and Viſcount of St. Alban's, once Lord Chancellor of England, who firſt revived Experimental Philoſophy: Of whoſe Merits, Riſe and Fall, we ſhall ſay nothing, but refer our Readers to his Life now lately, in 1740, publiſhed, and prefixed to a new and beautiful Edition of his Works, written by the ingenious Mr. Mallet. Sir Thomas Meautys, who had been the Secretary of this wonderful Man, and to whom he convey'd this Eſtate, in Gratitude, erected a Monument for him in St. Michael's Church in this Town, ſitting thoughfully in an Elbow-chair.

The Monument bears this Inſcription: ‘Franciſc. Bacon, Baro de Verulam, Sti. Albani Viceco.
Seu notioribus Titulis,
Scientiarum Lumen, Facundiae Lex,
Sic ſedebat.
Qui, poſtquam omnia Naturalis Sapientiae
Et Civilis Arcana evolviſſet,
Naturae Decretum explevit,
Compoſita ſolvantur,
An. Dom. 1626. Aetat. 66.
Tanti Viri Mem. Thomas Meautys, Superſtitis Cultor,
Defuncti Admirator.’ Thus tranſlated:

[180]The Manor of Kingſbury was ſometimes the Re⯑ſidence of the Saxon Monarchs, whence its Name. It had a Caſtle, which was kept up till King Stephen's Time, when it was demoliſh'd, and the Scite given to the Abbey.

The Ducheſs Dowager of Marlborough hath a Seat here, built by the late Duke upon the River Verlam, which runs thro' the Garden; and who alſo built handſome Alms-houſes at the Entrance of the Town.

The following remarkable Inſcription and Cha⯑racter is cut upon the Pedeſtal of a fine Statue of the late Queen Anne, carved by the noted Mr. Rysbrach, and erected at St. Alban's, at the Expence of the Ducheſs, in Gratitude to the Memory of that excel⯑lent Princeſs:

[182]At Colney is alſo a very handſome Seat of Sir. Henry-Pope Blunt's, ſtanding about a Quarter of a Mile North of the Road. It ſeems to be very large, and the Fields and Meadows about it make it very pleaſant in Summer.

Having thus gone over the firſt Part I propoſed of this Country, which lies South and South-weſt of St. Alban's Road, I ſhall now bend my Courſe North-eaſt towards Hertford, and from thence North-weſt, to take in ſuch Part of the middle Diviſion as lie between the Two capital Roads on that Side of Hertford; reſerving that which lies Eaſt of it, for my Return towards London.

The next Town in my Way is Hatfield, 17 computed Miles from London: it is a Market-town; but much more famous is Hatfield Houſe, which lies near it; from whence Edward VI. and Queen Elizabeth, were both conducted to the Throne, having reſided here for ſome time. King James made an Exchange of this Manor in the fourth Year of his Reign, for that of Theobald's, as hereafter mentioned, with Sir Robert Cecil, afterwards Earl of Salisbury, who built this magnificent Houſe, and made the Vineyard in the Park, thro' which the River Lee hath its Courſe, adorning that Garden. The Rectory of Hatfield is eſteemed one of the beſt in England; Winwich in Lancaſhire, and another in Durham, have larger Revenues; but this has a better Situation.

Saundridge, which lies a little North-weſt of Hat⯑field, deſerves to be mentioned, as it gave Title of Baron to the late great Duke of Marlborough; and it now belongs to his illuſtrious Relict, a Deſcendant of the Family of Jennings, of this Place. But one Thing muſt be obſerved withal, that when I was there laſt, the Steeple lay buried in its own Rubbiſh, as it had done for 40 Years together; and the Bells [183] hung in the Church behind the Door; and this, I ſuppoſe, continues to be its preſent State.

North-Mymms ſtands a little Eaſt of Colney, and is remarkable for having in its Neighbourhood the Seat of the late Sir Joſeph Jekyll, Maſter of the Rolls, in Right of his Lady, who was Heir to her late Brother the great Lord Somers. It has a moſt delightful Proſpect. The Body of that noble Lord lies interred in the Chancel of the Church here, without any Inſcription, in Alluſion, as one would expect, to his Motto, Prodeſſe quam conſpici. This Seat is now the Property of his Grace the Duke of Leeds, (who has put a great Part of the Houſe and Gardens in good Repair) and is his Retirement from London, during any ſhort Interval that may happen in the Seſſions of Parliament.

We come now to Hertford, the County Town, 20 computed Miles from London; a Corporation, governed by a Mayor and Burgeſſes. It is pleaſantly ſituated in a wholſome Air, and a dry Vale, having a good weekly Market well ſtored with Corn, and all ſort of Proviſions. It is very antient, and is built in the Form of a Y, with a Caſtle in the Middle of the two Horns. It contains ſeveral Streets and Lanes, well filled with handſome new-built Houſes. In Edward III.'s Time, it had petitioned to be diſ⯑burden'd of the Expence of ſending Two Members to Parliament, on their Inability to pay their Repre⯑ſentatives Wages: But 21. Jac. I. they petitioned to be reſtored to their Right, and ſucceeded.

There is a Free Grammar School for the Children of this Town, erected by Richard Hale, Eſq in King James I.'s Reign. The Houſe, being rebuilt a few Years ago, is a very good one. Of the Five Churches Hertford once had, there are but Two remaining, viz. All-Saints and St. Andrew's.

Near Hertford is a Seat of Governor Harriſon ſituated on a Hill, which commands a Proſpect of [184] the Country round it, as is likewiſe, in its Neigh⯑bourhood, a Seat of the Clarks, very delightfully ſituated too.

The Earl Cowper has a handſome Seat near Hertingfordbury, in the Neighbourhood of Hertford, built by his Father the great Lord High Chancellor of that Name; who erected in the Church-yard a Tomb for his Mother, with an Inſcription to her Honour: in this Church-yard is alſo the Tomb of Mrs. Eliza⯑beth Culling, Heireſs of a Family of that Name.

The Manor of Gobions lies a little North of Hertford, and will be for ever famous on Occaſion of its being the Family-ſeat of the great Sir Thomas More, Lord High Chancellor of England in the Reign of Henry VIII. who took off his Head, for refuſing to acknowlege his Supremacy. It is now the Property of Sir Jeremy Sambroke, Bart. who for the Beauty of its Gardens, as well as the Houſe, has made the Place one of the moſt remarkable Curioſities in England.

A little ſtill farther North, at Wotton, is the Manſion-houſe of the Botelers, nobly ſituated on a riſing Ground, and watered with ſmall Streams, which fall into the Beane on the South of it. It ſtands in a Park beautifully conſiſting of Hills and Flats, and renowned for as good Timber as the Iſland pro⯑duces. About 40 Years ſince, one Tree was ſold for 43l. 18 Horſes were had to draw one Part of it, when ſlit, and out of it the Cutwater to the Royal Sovereign was made. Another, called the Walking-Stick, might ſome Years ago have been ſold for Fifty Guineas; but was decaying when I was there, by the burrowing of Rabbets under it. There is a good Free-ſchool in this Village, for poor Children; with ſome of whom 5l. is to be given Apprentice.

Stevenage is 28 computed Miles from London, and lies North-weſt of Hertford. It is a ſmall Market-town: the Church ſtands upon a Hill, and conſiſts [185] of a Nave and Two Iſles, and the Chancel hath a Chapel on each Side. In the Steeple is a Ring of Six Bells. Here is a good Free-ſchool, as well for Petit as Grammar Scholars.

Walkern is near it, North-eaſt, on the River Beane. I mention it on Account of the poor Jane Wenman, who within theſe 30 Years was tried for a Witch, the laſt, we hope, that ever will undergo ſuch a Trial in England; for the old obſolete Law againſt Witches was very lately repealed. Mr. Juſtice Powell got a Reprieve for the poor Creature, after the Jury had found her guilty, contrary to his Directions. She lived ſeveral Years afterwards on an Allowance from the Pariſh. The poor Wretch had been frighted into a Confeſſion, that ſhe was a Witch; and thereupon was committed by Sir Harry Chauncy, of Yardlybury, who would fain have had her retract, and pacify her Accuſers. This Gentleman was one of the deprived Judges of King James II. but it is ſaid he never ſat as Judge but one Day. He wrote The Antiquities of HERTFORDSHIRE.

It is reported likewiſe, that another Woman being tried before Judge Powell, who among other Things that conſtituted her a Witch, had laid to her Charge, That ſhe could fly; Ay! ſaid the Judge; And is this true? Do you ſay you can fly? Yes, I can, ſaid ſhe.—So you may, if you will, then, replied the Judge; I have no Law againſt it. And at the Trial of Jane Wenman, the Court being full of fine Ladies, the old Judge very gallantly told the Jury, ‘"They muſt not look out for Witches among the Old Women, but among the Young."’

I paſſed by Benington-place, the Seat of the antient Family of the Caeſars. There was formerly a Caſtle there; the Hill on which it ſtood, ſtill remains deep ditched.

At Siffivernes, in Codicote Pariſh, in the Year 1627, was a moſt prodigious Walnut-tree, covering [186] 76 Poles of Ground. The Weight of the Boughs at laſt cleft the Trunk to the Ground. Mr. Penn, then Lord of the Manor, had 19 Loads of Planks out of it; a Gun-ſtock Maker at London had as much as coſt 10l. Carriage: There were 30 Loads more of Roots and Branches. This was atteſted by Edward Wingate, before a neighbouring Juſtice of Peace, to whom Mr. Penn declared, he had been offered 50l. for the Tree. And Jaſper Docura of the Pariſh atteſted, That when he was 15 Years old, the Compaſs of both his Arms would not reach round it at Eight times.

Hitchin is a Market-town, lying in a Bottom, out of any great Road, diſtant from London 30 com⯑puted Miles, and within three Miles of Bedfordſhire. 'Tis governed by a Bailiff and Four Conſtables, and was formerly famous for the Staple Commodities of this Kingdom. The Church is large, dedicated to St. Mary. It conſiſts of the Nave and Two Ayles, with Two Chapels or Chancels. The Steeple has a Ring of Six Bells, but is low, and diſproportionate to the Chancel. In the North Ayle Window are Paintings of Faith, Hope, and Charity, and of the Four Cardinal Virtues; and in the next North Window, the Beatitudes. The Front hath the Twelve Apoſtles round it; but they have been Suf⯑ferers from the booted Saints of Forty-one. There are many Monuments in it. A good Free-ſchool, and other charitable Benefactions, have been made to the Town.

I could not miſs taking notice of Hexton, on the North-weſt Edge of the County, next Bedfordſhire, where was a Battle between the Danes and Saxons, ſome Remains of which are viſible between this Place and Luton, as large Barrows, &c. Half a Mile to the South of this Town is a fortify'd Piece of Ground, called Ravenſborough Caſtle. The Camp is a ſort of Oblong, containing about 16 Acres, the [187] Fortification intire. Nature has ſo well ſtrengthened it, that 1000 Men may defend it againſt a very great Army: it is incompaſſed with a Valley, and a very ſteep Hill, inacceſſible by an Army any-where but at the Point of Entrance, which is by a gradual Aſcent of a Quarter of a Mile.

The Beryſlade, a Houſe poſſeſſed by John Croſs, Eſq tho' low and in the Dirt, is now an agreeable Summer-houſe; which it owes chiefly to St. Faith's Well, a fine Spring at Ravensburg. A moory Piece of Ground, where the Spring riſes, is cut into Ca⯑nals, which are ſtocked with Trouts, many of them 22 Inches long. Theſe having been uſed to take their Food from the Maſter's Hand, out of a Bowl with a long Handle to it, come rolling up to the Surface. The Bottom is white, either from Chalk or Sand; and ſo tranſparent, that every Fiſh may be ſeen that comes out of its Hole. To preſerve them from Groping, the Banks are wharfed, and in ſome Places ſupported with Timber; ſo that the Fiſh can ſhelter themſelves underneath; and a Man muſt have his Head and Shoulders in Water, who ſtoops down to them. From hence the Water feeds a large Canal in the Garden ſtored with Carp and Tench; and there might be made Baſons or Canals to any Dimenſions.

Near Hexton is a Square Roman Camp upon a Promontory juſt big enough for the Purpoſe, and under it is a fine Spring.

Lilibo is a fine Plot of Ground upon a Hill, where a Horſe-race is kept. It lies a little South of Hexton, juſt by the Ikening.

Near Pirton Church has been a Caſtle of the Saxons or Normans, with a Keep.

I proceeded next to Baldock, ſituated on the Ikening-ſtreet, as it leads from Dunſtable to Royſton. It is a large Market-town, 29 computed Miles from London. It is of chief Note for its many Maltſters. [188] The Church ſtands in the Middle of the Town; it is a handſome high-built Edifice, with a Ring of Six good Bells. It has Three Chancels, but the Two outward are rather Chapels. The Ikening-ſtreet, about Baldock now appears but like a Field-way. Between Baldock and Icleford it goes thro' an In⯑trenchment, conſiſting of the Remains of a Britiſh Town, now called Wilbury-hill. Icleford retains the Name of the Street, which at this Place paſſes a Rivulet with a ſtrong Ford, wanting Reparation.

This Street, quite to the Thames in Oxfordſhire, goes at the Bottom of a continued Ridge of Hills, called the Chiltern, being Chalk, and the natural and civil Boundary between the Counties of Hertford and Bedford, very ſteep Northward.

As the Ikening-ſtreet and the Foſs traverſed the Kingdom from South-weſt to North-eaſt, parallel to each other, and Watling-ſtreet croſſed theſe quite the contrary Way with an equal Obliquity, the Herman-ſtreet paſſed directly North and South. This Word is Saxon, and ſignifies a Soldier or Warrior, which Name it obtained from being a Military Way.

It begins at Newhaven, at the Mouth of the River Ouſe in Suſſex, and paſſes on the Weſt Side of that River, thro' Radmil, then thro' Lewis by Isfield; after which it ſeems to paſs over the River at Sharn⯑bridge, and ſo proceeds to Eaſt Grinſtead; but is loſt in paſſing thro' the great Woods. Then thro' Surry it goes by Stane-ſtreet, Croydon, Stretham, and by its pointing we may conclude was originally deſigned to paſs the Thames at the Ferry called Stan⯑gate by Lambeth, where it coincides with the Watling-ſtreet. There the Road went, before London became conſiderable: but ſince that Period the Traces of the Roads near that Capital have grown very obſcure. The original Road perhaps paſſes thro' unfrequented Ways near Enfield, and Harman-ſtreet, which ſeems from thence to have borrowed its Name.

[189]On the Eaſtern Side of Enfield Chace by Buſh-hill, is a circular Britiſh Camp upon an Eminence, de⯑clining South-weſt. But the antient Road appears upon a Common on this Side Hertford by Ball's-park, and paſſes the River below Hertford; then, goes thro' Ware-park, and falls into the preſent Road on this Side Buntingford, and ſo to Royſton, where it croſſes the Ikening-ſtreet, coming from Tring thro' Dunſtable, going into Suffolk. Theſe are the principal Places upon the Two Roads, which we thought fit to mention together.

At Baldock I croſſed the North Road, and got into the Third Diviſion I propoſed, next Cambridgeſhire and Eſſex; and when I have paſſed thro' it, I will return back again South, and take a View of ſuch Towns as lie on the Eaſt Side of the middle Diviſion as I have not been at already.

In the Year 1724, between Caldecot and Henx⯑worth, ſeveral Roman Antiquities were dug up. Workmen, digging Gravel for the Repair of the great Northern Road, ſtruck upon ſome earthen Veſſels or large Urns, full of Aſhes and burnt Bones, but rotten; near them a human Skeleton, with the Head towards the South-eaſt, the Feet North-weſt. Several Bodies were found in the ſame Poſition, not above a Foot under the Surface of the Earth, and with Urns, great or ſmall, near them, and Patera's of fine red Earth, ſome with the Impreſſion of the Maker at the Bottom; alſo Glaſs Lacrymatories, Ampulla's, a Braſs Tribulus, Six ſmall Glaſſes, Two large Beads of a Green Colour, and other Frag⯑ments.

I went thro' the Village of Aſhwell, which ſtands not far from Caldecot, on the Source of the Rhee, by the Borders of Cambridgeſhire, which breaks out of a Rock here from many Springs, with ſuch Force as to form a Stream remarkably clear, but ſo cold, that it gripes Horſes not uſed to drink it. [190] The Water here bubbles out at as many Places, and as abundantly, and in juſt ſuch a Bottom under a Hill, as doth the Iſis or Thames in Glouceſterſhire. In Domeſday Book this Village is called a Borough, having Fourteen Burgeſſes, and a Market; antiently alſo it had Four Fairs. Mr. Camden thinks the Village Roman; and at half a Mile Diſtance, South of this Source of the Rhee, is a Spot of Ground taken in by a Vallum, and generally thought to be one of the Caſtra Exploratorum of the Romans; it is called Arbury Banks, and conſiſts of about 12 Acres, and Roman Coins have been found here; but ſtill it wants ſeveral Requiſites, that go to a Roman Camp, which I have not room to particularize. Aſhwell-field affords a Stone Quarry, out of which the Stones of moſt of the Churches of this Side, and the neighbouring Part of Bedfordſhire, have been dug. The Church has a handſome Chancel, Three large Ayles, a lofty Tower at the Weſt End, with a Ring of Six Bells, and a Chapel on the North Side the Chancel.

I now come to Royſton, ſituated upon the utmoſt Northern Border of Hertfordſhire, inſomuch that Part of it is in Cambridgeſhire, 33 computed Miles from London. The Fields about this Towns have upon almoſt every Eminence a Barrow, and they lie very thick by the Ikening-ſtreet, Eaſt of this Town. Here was a Monaſtery founded in Honour of St. Thomas à Becket, as alſo an Hoſpital, both ſwallowed up in the Diſſolution of Henry VIII. but the Priory-church was purchaſed by the Inhabitants, and made a Pariſh-church of. It conſiſts of a Nave, and an Ayle on each Side, and a ſquare Tower with a Ring of Five Bells in it.

The Town became populous, on erecting the preſent Poſt-road through it, which before ran along the Ermine-ſtreet, thro' Barkw [...] [...] [...]iggleſwade. It is now a good Town, and well [...], and has [191] a very great Corn-market on Wedneſdays, and is full of good Inns. In the Year 1716, a School-houſe was erected here by Contribution of the Town and Country.

Two Miles both Ways of Royſton is chalky Soil; about Puckeridge it is gravelly: in other Places adjoining are Camps, and Roman Antiquities. At Hadſtock is the Skin of a Daniſh King nailed upon the Church Doors, as reported.

Royſton was a Roman Town before Roiſia built her religious Houſe here; for Roman Coins have been dug up near the Spot. There ſeems to be the Stamp of Roiſia's Croſs ſtill remaining at the Corner of the Inn, juſt where the Two Roads meet. The Earl of Oxford, digging Canals at Wimple, when he had that Seat, found many Bodies, and ruſty Pieces of Iron, the Remains of ſome Battle.

And now I bend my Courſe Southward, towards London.

The Church of Therfield, which lies among the Hills, a little South of Royſton, is obliged to Francis Lord Biſhop of Ely, once Rector of it, who paved the Chancel with Free-ſtone, the Area of the Altar with Marble; wainſcoted the Walls, made it into the Form of a Choir, and ceiled it with Fret-work. 'Tis a Rectory of great Value, and is rated in the Firſt-fruits Office, at 50l. a Year. Till lately was at Therfield Furniture of all Sorts for the Uſe of poor Peoples Weddings, ſuch as was at Braughing; but they are now loſt, or converted to other Uſes, even literally to Ploughſhares and Peaſe-hooks.

Barkway is a Market-town. The Church ſtands in the midſt of the Town, with an Ayle on each Side, and a Tower with Five Bells, and a Turret-clock. The Creation of the World is painted on one of the Windows. In one Pane at Top is a bodily Repre⯑ſentation of the Deity, as a Man in a looſe R [...]be, down to his Feet, with the Globe before him, [192] and the Motto under, De operae primae diei. The next Pane has the ſame, with Hands expanded, ſtanding on the Firmament, in the midſt of the Water; under which, De opere Secundae diei. The Third has the ſame Figure, amongſt green Trees and Herbs; the Legend loſt, and Three other Panes, in Order, under theſe. The Painting of the Fourth is loſt. The Fifth has the ſame Figure, with Birds flying about it. A Piece of the Sixth remains, where Fowls and Beaſts are brought to Adam to be named. Another Window, in the North Iſle, has St. George ſlaying a Dragon, a Biſhop, &c.

The Roman Road, called Ermine-ſtreet, paſſes thro' the Pariſh of Amſty; and all the Way upon it we find Remains of Camps and Stations, ex⯑actly according to the Itinerary. The Caſtle for⯑merly here, was ſaid to be built by Euſtace Earl of Bologne, at the Conqueror's Command; and it is not improbable, that there were Fortifi⯑cations before. It conſiſted of a Keep, or round artificial Hill, yet remaining, with a large and deep Foſſe about it; the Mount, probably, made from the Ditch. The Barons, in King John's Time, made another Retrenchment South of it, which would contain a Gariſon as numerous as the Caſtle would hold. Henry III. obliged Nicolas de Aveſtic to demoliſh the additional Fortification, and keep up only the old one.

The Church was built in the Reign of Henry III. as is ſaid, out of the Stones of the demoliſhed Forti⯑fications made additional to the Caſtle. It is cer⯑tainly very old, and built with a low Tower in the Middle, and Two Ayles. The Chancel, perhaps, was rebuilt with the Materials of the Keep, being of later Date. It is large and lofty, and hath Stalls, as if for a Choir.

[193] Buntingford is the next Town, and lies in the Cambridge Road, noted for a great Thorough-fare, 28 computed Miles from London, and owes its Being as a Town to the preſent Poſt-road through it to the North. The firſt Mention of it is in the Reign of Edward III. who gave a Market and a Fair to it. It is ſituated in Layſton Pariſh; but has a Chapel of Brick, built by Contribution for the Inhabitants here. Dr. Seth Ward Biſhop of Salisbury, who died Jan. 6. 1688, built a neat Brick-houſe near the Chapel, for Four poor Men, and Four poor Women, who had lived handſomely, and came to Decay thro' Misfortunes; each of which has Two Rooms below, and Two above. Buntingford Free-ſchool owes much alſo to the ſame worthy Prelate, who had his Edu⯑cation in it. He built, 1683, an Hoſpital at Saliſ⯑bury, for Ten poor Widows of Clergymen, was a Benefactor to Layſton, gave a good Sum of Money to make Salisbury River navigable; 600l. to be laid out in Land, for putting out Three poor Children Apprentices, Two out of Alſeden, and One out of Layſton, alternately. In ſhort, the good Biſhop ſeems to have thought, that the Reve⯑nues he reaped from the Church, ought to have ſome other more publick Deſignation, than to lift out of Obſcurity a private Family.

Braughing lies a little on the Eaſt of the Road, was antiently, next to Verulam, the moſt conſiderable Place in the County, and is thought to have been the Roman Caeſaromagum, ſituated 28 Miles from London, as by Antoninus's Itinerary. It ſtill has ſome Ruins of its antient Eminence, giving Name to the Deanry and the Hundred. On the Weſt Side the Ermin-ſtreet, now the Road to Cambridge, we find the Ruins of a Roman Camp. The Church is an handſome Building, and hath a Ring of Five good Bells.

[194]Near the Church-yard is an old Houſe, at preſent inhabited by poor Families, which was given with all Sorts of Furniture for Weddings. They brought hither their Proviſions, and had a large Kitchen, with a Caldron, large Spits and Dripping-pan; a large Room for Merriment; a Lodging-room with a Bride-bed and good Linen; ſome of which Furniture was in being a few Years ago.

This Proviſion was alſo at Therfield, and the Kitchen Utenſils, but lately loſt.

We proceeded thro' Puckridge, a little Hamlet Town, but a great Thorough-fare, ſtanding on the Ermin-ſtreet, where there are ſeveral good Inns for Travellers, and came to Standon, a ſmall Market-town. The Church hath Three Ayles; the Floor of the Chancel is Seven Steps above that of the Church, and the Altar Three Steps above the Chancel-floor.

Here we turn'd ſhort to the Eaſt, to viſit Biſhop-Stortford, lying on the Borders of Eſſex, 27 Miles from London. The Conqueror gave this Town and Caſtle to the Biſhop of London, whence its Praenomen; and King John ſeized and demoliſhed it, for the Offence of the then Biſhop, who was one of thoſe who publiſhed the Pope's Interdict againſt the Nation. The Town, in the ſame Reign, was incorporated, and returned Members to Seven ſucceſſive Parlia⯑ments. The Biſhop was reſtored by the ſame Prince, and Satisfaction made him for demoliſhing the Caſtle. The Hill or Keep of the Caſtle is artificial, made of Earth carried thither, with a Breaſt-work at Top of Stones and Morter. A Bank of Earth leads from it thro' the moory Ground, on which it was ſituated, to the North-eaſt. There is a large Wall from the Top of the Hill yet remaining. The Biſhop's Priſon was in being in Biſhop Bonner's Time; tho' all the old Buildings are ſince demoliſhed. But the Caſtle-guard is ſtill paid by ſeveral Places to the Biſhop, beſides other Quit-rents.

[195]The Town is large, and well-built; it is a Thorough-fare from London to Cambridge, New-market, and St. Edmundſbury, and full of convenient Inns. It is built in the Form of a Croſs, having four Streets turn'd to the Cardinal Points, and the River Stort runs thro' it.

The Church dedicated to St. Michael, is lofty, and ſtands on high Ground; it hath a fine Ring of Eight Bells. There were antiently Three Guilds and a Chantry founded here. In the Church are Nine Stalls on a Side, for a Choir. On the North Side the Church is a Gallery for the young Gentle⯑men of the School, built by Contribution; upon it Sir John Hobart's Arms, who was educated there, and a great Benefactor to this Work.

At the Weſt End is another Gallery, built a few Years ago, upon which is an Organ; and it is ob⯑ſervable, that there was an Organ in this Church ſo long ago as in the Reign of Henry VII. A new Font ſtands before it, with a Pavement of Black and White Marble, incloſed with Iron Ralis.

There are a great Number of Monuments in the Church, particularly one in the North Ayle, for Seven Children of Edward Mapheſden, who died of the Small-pox, with a Latin Inſcription, deploring that heavy Diſpenſation.

Several Benefactions are beſtowed on the Poor of this Town, particularly Two Alms-houſes in Potters-ſtreet. But the greateſt Ornament of the Town is the School, built 35 Years ago, by Contribution of the Gentlemen of Hertfordſhire and Eſſex, at the Requeſt of Dr. Thomas Tooke late Maſter, who alſo procured ſeveral Sums for completing it, from the young Gentlemen educated here. When this Gen⯑tleman engaged in it, it was at the loweſt Ebb of Reputation; but he raiſed it to a great Degree of Fame, and conſiderably increaſed the Trade of the Town, by the beneficial Concourſe that it [196] brought thither. He revived the annual School-feaſt, and charged his own Eſtate with a yearly Preſent to the Preacher on that Occaſion. He died May 4. 1721, after upwards of 30 Years ſucceſsful and diligent Labours here. By his Intereſt and Care the Gallery in the Church, for the Uſe of the School, was erected: He gave a Chalice of 20l. Value to the Church, and was a great Benefactor to the School Library, which is a very good one, and was firſt ſet on foot by the Reverend Mr. Thomas Leigh, B. D. who was Vicar of the Church Anno 1680.

The School ſtands in the High-ſtreet, with the Weſt Front to the Church-yard, conſiſting of Three Rooms, which, with the Stair-caſe, make a ſquare Building. The Grammar School takes up half of it, all the Front to the Street; the other Two are the Library, and Writing-ſchool. Theſe ſtand upon Arches, under which are a Market and Shops, which are the Property of the Pariſh; and here the School was built at the Deſire of the Inhabitants, who got by it a Covering for their Market, and at the ſame time an Ornament to their Town.

Every Gentleman at leaving the School preſents a Book to the Library.

Hadham Parva ſtands a little North of Biſhop-Stortford, and is of chief Note for being the Burying-place of the Capels, Earls of Eſſex.

The Manor of Rye, in the Pariſh of Stanſted-Abbots, is famous for the Plot, called thence the Rye-houſe Plot, ſaid to be formed for aſſaſſinating King Charles II. in his Return from New-market; for which ſeveral Perſons ſuffered, and among the reſt the Tenant of the Place, Rumball, a Man of a daring and intrepid Spirit.

Honeſdon, ſeparated from Eſſex by the Stort, de⯑ſerves to be mentioned for Three Reaſons; firſt, for its noble Situation upon a gravelly riſing Ground, [197] overlooking the Meadows; 2dly, for being the Re⯑ſidence of the Children of King Henry VIII. in whoſe Hands it was then, on account of its good Air, and Vicinity to London; and 3dly, for the Seat of Robert Cheſter, Eſq built within theſe few Years, incloſed with a Park. It ſtands upon a beautiful Hill, overlooking the Meadows, the River Stort, and Part of Eſſex, from the back Front; from the other it hath a Proſpect over great Part of Hertfordſhire, and is ſeen from Cheſhunt Common, on one hand, as St. Paul's is from the other. At the Entrance of the Avenue it hath a large Baſin, thro' which runs a ſmall Stream, and there is a graceful Plantation of Trees, with Variety of Slopes, adorned with Statues. The ſame Stream afterwards feeds a Canal.

We purſued our Way directly South, and came to Sawbridgeworth, or Sabſworth. Among ſeveral an⯑tient Monuments in the Church, is an handſome one erected to the Memory of General Lumly, Bro⯑ther to the then Earl of Scarborough, with an In⯑ſcription greatly to his Honour. As follows:

‘"Here lieth the Honourable HENRY LUMLEY, Eſq only Brother to Thomas Earl of Scarborough; who was in every Battle, and at every Siege, as Colonel, Lieutenant-General, or General of the Horſe, with King William, or the Duke of Marlborough, in Twenty Campaigns, in Ireland, Flanders, and Germany; where he was honoured, eſteemed and beloved by our own Army, by our Allies, and even by the Enemies, for his ſingular Politeneſs and Humanity, as well as for all his military Virtues and Capacity. He ſat long in Parliament, always zealous for the Honour of the Crown, and for the Good of his Country; and knew no Party, but that of Truth, Juſtice, and Honour. He died Governor of the Iſle of [198] Jerſey, the 18th of October 1722, in the 63d Year of his Age."’

The Manor Houſe of Piſh [...]bury, in Sabſworth Pariſh, deſerves to be mentioned on account of its remarkable Strength, (though built in Queen Elizabeth's Time) and lofty Rooms. It is ſituated on a clean Soil, has handſome Avenues to it, with the River Stort behind, which communicates with the Canals in the Gardens. It is in the Poſſeſſion of the Family of Gardiner.

We then croſs'd the Country directly Weſt to Ware, ſituated 20 Miles from London, on the River Lee, in its Courſe from Milford. The Town ſtands low, upon a Level with the River. It is a Place of great Trade for all ſorts of Grain, but chiefly Malt, which is conveyed in great Quantities to London, by the River Lee, which is navigable from hence; and the Barges bring Coals, &c.

It conſiſts of one principal Street a Mile long, and other back Streets and Lanes. At an Inn in this Town is the famous great Bed, which is 12 Feet ſquare.

Ware being 20 Miles from London, is the ſecond Poſt Town from thence on the Northern Road. The next is Royſton, 13 Miles further. Several Alms-houſes, and a Free-ſchool, and other Charities belong to this Town.

Thomas Byde, Eſq Lord of the Manor, has a Houſe pleaſantly ſituated in the Park here, to which is an Aſcent of every Side; alſo a Vineyard newly planted. One late Improvement, beſides many others, is, a Cut from the Rib, which by that Means turns that Stream thro' the Park on the South Side, which is a fine Nurſery and Protection for Trouts.

In the North Part of the Town was ſituated the Priory, now in the Poſſeſſion of the Family of Hadſley.

[199]An eminent Tradeſman of Ware, having loſt by Death a favourite Mare, which he had had many Years; in Conſideration of her good Services, made, in March 1739, a grand Burying for her, and in⯑vited near 300 People to it. He and his Wife going next the Carcaſe, as chief Mourners, were followed by the reſt of the Company in Couples; and about Four o'Clock ſhe was interred in Hare-lane-field, near the Town, with great Pomp: After which the Company returned, and were treated with Plum Cake and Strong Beer, at the Mourner's Houſe, who expreſſed great Concern for the Loſs of the valuable Creature.

At Blake's-ware, the moſt Eaſtern Part of the Pariſh, is a Seat of William Plummer, Eſq with a Stream called the Aſh, on the Eaſt Front, which feeds a Canal and a Garden by the River-ſide. The chief Gardens are ſeen from the weſtern Front, which being upon a Declivity, afford an handſome Proſpect that Way.

A little South of Ware lies Amwell, a Village, famous for giving Riſe to the New River, which pro⯑ceeding in a direct Courſe by the Church, receives a Spring which flows with great abundance. It is 20 Miles from London; but the Courſe of the River is computed at 36. It was begun by Sir Hugh Middleton; but he being ruined by the Project, the City of London undertook it, and by Aid of an Act of Parliament, brought it to Perfection. The yearly Profit of the River has, ſome Years ago, been computed at 30000l. and the Expence in ſupporting and keeping it up, is ſaid to amount to half the Profit. 'Twas divided originally into 72 Shares, one Moiety whereof belonged to private Perſons, and the other to the Crown: For King James I. for the ſake of his Palace at Theobalds, was a great Pro⯑moter of it. The Crown's Moiety is ſince come into private Hands; who however have no Part in the [200] Management; for the Corporation conſiſts of 29 of the Proprietors of the firſt 36 Shares.

This River, in Fact, draws moſt of its Water from the Lee; which being the Property of the City of London, that Corporation oppoſed a Bill brought into Parliament, for giving further Powers to the New River Company, to benefit itſelf by the Lee River: But the Oppoſition availed not, and in the Seſſion 1738-9 the Bill paſſed into a Law.

The Governors of the New River Company agreed with the Proprietors of the Lands on the River Lee, for a Cut of Two cubick Feet of Water from the ſaid River, at a certain Rate; and after the Agreement, they told them they would double the Price for a Four-foot Cut; which the Proprietors agreed to, not conſidering the great Diſproportion of the Two Cuts. And this Cut of the River Lee ſupplies the largeſt Share of the New River Water.

We kept along the great Road, thro' Hoddeſdon, (which is a conſiderable Market-town, and noted alſo as a Thoroughfare) till we came to Broxbourn, which lies near it on the New River; a ſmall, but pleaſant Village, ſituated on a riſing Ground, having plea⯑ſant Meadows down to the River Lee. On the Left⯑hand of the Village is Broxbournbury, the Seat of the Lord Monſon. The Houſe is large, and in the old Gothick Style, and ſituated in the Middle of the Park (which has been planted and beautified of late). There are alſo new Offices erected at a little Diſtance from the Houſe, in a Quadrangle, on the ſame Plan with the King's Meuſe at Charing-croſs. They are placed behind a large Plantation of Trees, ſo that they do not appear until you are near upon them, yet are at a convenient Diſtance from the Manſion-houſe, which I was informed his Lordſhip alſo propoſes to rebuild.

The Manor of Theobalds is in this Neighbourhood, where formerly was built a magnificent Seat by Lord [201] Treaſurer Burleigh, who gave it his younger Son Sir Robert Cecil, and he exchanged it for that of Hat⯑field, at the Deſire of King James I. who made it his Sporting Seat; and here ended his Life. From this Place Charles I. ſet out to erect his Standard at Nottingham. King Charles II. made a Grant of it to Monck, Duke of Albemarle, and to his Male Iſſue, which failing in his Son Chriſtopher, King William gave it to Bentinck, Earl of Portland, in whoſe Grandſon, the preſent Duke, it ſtill conti⯑nues. In the late Civil Wars the Palace was plun⯑dered and defaced; and is become a poor Village, from a Royal Reſidence. The great Park, which was incloſed within a Wall of 10 Miles Compaſs, by King James, is now converted into Farms. The Place is however popular, and the New River runs juſt by, and ſometimes thro' the Gardens of the Inhabitants. In this Neighbourhood Richard Cromwell, the abdi⯑cated Protector, paſſed the laſt Part of his Life in a very private Manner.

Waltham-croſs is the next, and, as you enter Middleſex by the North Road, the laſt Place in Hert⯑fordſhire, ſtanding juſt on the Edge of Middle⯑ſex. It is noted for, and takes its Name from, the Croſs, built by King Edward I. in Honour of his beloved Queen Eleanor, whoſe Corps, in its Way from Lincolnſhire to Weſtminſter, reſted here; as a Croſs was built at every Stage where it reſted, and Charing-croſs was the laſt. That Princeſs's Effigies placed round the Pillar and the Arms of her Royal Conſort, as well as her own, viz. England, Caſtile, Leon, and Poictou, are ſtill remaining, tho' much defaced.

And thus much for the County of Hertford, with which I conclude myſelf, Sir,

LETTER IV. CONTAINING A Deſcription of Part of BUCKINGHAM⯑SHIRE, of the County of OXFORD, and Part of WILTS.

I NOW proceed to give you an Account of my next Journey thro' Part of Bucks, into Oxfordſhire, and ſhall touch upon ſome Parts of Wiltſhire, of which I have not-yet taken notice.

On the Right-hand, as we ride from London to Uxbridge or to Colebrook, we ſee Harrow; the Church of which ſtanding on the Summit of an Hill, and having a very high Spire, they tell us, King Charles II. ridiculing the warm Diſputes among ſome critical Scripturaliſts of thoſe Times, concerning the Viſible Church of Chriſt upon Earth; uſed to ſay, This was it.

From Uxbridge we proceeded on the Road towards Oxford, and came to Beaconsfield, a ſmall Town on the Road to Oxford, full of good Inns, and ſituated on a dry Hill, famous for the Reſidence of Mr. Edmund Waller, eminent for his poetical Talent.

[203]Then we went on to Wickham, commonly call'd High or Chipping Wycoomb, from Coomb, a Britiſh Word for Valley. This is a large Town, conſiſting of one great principal Street, branching out into divers ſmall ones. It is full of good Houſes and Inns, being a great Thorough-fare from London to Oxford.

Not far from Wickham lies Amerſham or Agmon⯑deſham, a ſmall Market-town, very antient; and a little beyond it you go thro' Cheſham, a little in⯑conſiderable Market-town; and likewiſe Wendover, a mean, dirty corporate Town. From hence we proceeded to Aylesbury, which is the largeſt and beſt Town in the County.—It ſtands on a Hill, but the Country round it is low and dirty. It conſiſts of ſeveral large Streets, and has a handſome built Market-houſe, which ſtands in a kind of Quadrangle. It has alſo a Town-houſe, where the Aſſizes and Seſſions, and other publick Meetings of the County, are held. Proviſions are here cheap and plentiful, which is owing to the rich Vale adjoining. It was a ſtrong Town in the Beginning of the Saxons Time, and a Manor Royal in that of the Conqueror's, who parcell'd it out under this odd Tenure, That the Tenants ſhould find Litter or Straw for the King's Bed-chambers Three times a Year, if he came that Way ſo often, and provide him Three Eels in Winter, and Three Green Geeſe in Summer; which would be but a mean Entertainment at Bed and Board for a King in theſe Days.

All round this Town is a large Track of the richeſt Land in England, extended for many Miles almoſt from Tame, on the Edge of Oxfordſhire, to Leighton in Bedfordſhire, and is called from this very Town, The Vale of Aylesbury. It is famous for fat⯑tening Cattle and Sheep, and 'tis frequent that they ſell a Ram here for Breeding for Ten Pounds. Here it was, that converſing with ſome Gentlemen who underſtood Country Affairs, (for all Gentlemen here⯑abouts [204] are Graziers, tho' all the Graziers are not Gentlemen) they ſhewed me one remarkable in⯑cloſed Field of Paſture-ground, which was lett for 1400l. per Ann. to a Grazier; and I knew the Tenant very well, whoſe Name was Houghton, who confirmed the Truth of it.

The late Duke of Wharton had a very fine Seat at Winchenden, and another much finer nearer Windſor, called Ubourn. But the Cataſtrophe that has befallen this once flouriſhing and truly noble Family, is too melancholy, and too well known, to be animadverted upon here.

Near this Place lies Chilton, famous for giving Birth to that ſteddy Patriot the Lord Chief Juſtice Crook, who ſtrenuouſly oppoſed the arbitrary Mea⯑ſures of levying Ship-money without the Authority of Parliament.

South-weſt of Aylesbury lies the Market-town of Tame, ſituated on the Side of a Meadow, and almoſt incompaſſed with Rivulets. It conſiſts of one long broad Street. The Church is large and fine, in Form of a Croſs; near which are the Ruins of a Priory. A Pot of Roman Coin was found here about 15 Years ſince.

The Thame joins the other Branch, named alſo the Thames, at Dorcheſter, in Oxfordſhire. In this Vale of Aylesbury flouriſhed the great and antient Family of Hampden, for many Ages, in the Enjoy⯑ment of very large Eſtates, which, like that of Wharton, are now diſſipated.

At the Confluence of the Thame and Iſis, ſtands Dorcheſter, a Town of Note among the antient Romans, and in the Year 634 was made a Biſhop's See, till Remigius, in 1094, removed it to Lincoln. It has a very large Church, and a fine large Stone Bridge, of great Length and Antiquity.

Eaſt of Aylesbury lies Ivingo, a pleaſant Market-town ſituate among Woods, in a Nook, or kind of [205] Peninſula, which runs in between Bedfordſhire and Hertfordſhire.

We paſſed forward North-weſt thro' Win [...]low, a ſmall Market-town, to Buckingham, the County-Town, ſituated in a low, fruitful Ground, ſurrounded by the Ouze on all Sides but the North. 'Tis govern'd by a Bailiff and Capital Burgeſſes. The Caſtle is now old and ruinous, and the Buildings of the Town are alſo old. It has Three Stone Bridges over the River, and a well-built Church, and a Chapel built by Archbiſhop Becket, which is now uſed for a Free-ſchool. Several Paper-mills are erected on the Ouze, and the Town is divided into two Parts; one where the Church ſtands, and the other where the Town⯑hall is. The County Gaol, and Court, are kept here, and ſometimes the Aſſizes.

Going ſtill farther Northward, we come to the following Towns:

Stony Stratford is remarkable for ſtanding on the Roman Cauſeway, called Watling-ſtreet. It is an antient and well-known Thoroughfare Town in the Cheſter Road from London. It is large, and well-built of Stone, has Two Churches in it, and a Croſs erected by Edward I. to the Honour of his Queen Eleanor, and has a good Stone Bridge over the River. The principal Manufacture, as well in the Neigh⯑bourhood as in the Town, is Bone-lace.

Newport-pagnell is a large well-built, populous Town, ſeated on the River Ouze, over which it has Two large Stone Bridges. It carries on a great Trade in Bone-lace, and the ſame Manufacture imploys alſo the neighbouring Villages.

Oulney is a pretty good Town, where alſo is carried on a conſiderable Manufacture of Bone-lace. It lies on the Extremity of the County.

We then fell down, back again, to Buckingham; and following the great Road North-weſt, we came to Brackley, in Northamptonſhire, ſituate on the River [206] Ouze, an antient large corporate Town, in which are Two Pariſh Churches. It had formerly a College, but it is now uſed for a Free-ſchool. It is governed by a Mayor and Aldermen; and the Market uſed to be the Staple for Wool, in that County; but it is now removed.

We next came to Banbury in Oxfordſhire, on the River Charwell. It is a large Market-town under the Government of a Mayor and Aldermen. It has a conſiderable Trade, eſpecially in Cheeſe, as all the Country round it is a rich feeding Meadow-ground. Here the famous Make-king, Earl of Warwick, ſurpriſed the Earl of Pembroke and his Brother, of the Party of Edward IV. and beheaded them.

On the Borders of this County Weſtward from this Town in Warwickſhire, was the famous Battle of Edge-hill, fought between the Forces of King Charles I. and thoſe of the Parliament; where, tho' the Victory was dubious, yet the Advantage, in the Event, inclined to the King's Side; for he thereupon took Lord Say's Houſe at Broughton, and Banbury Caſtle, in which were 800 Foot, and a Troop of Horſe.

Edge-hill lies at the Weſt End of the Vale of Red⯑horſe, and gives a moſt extenſive Proſpect. It is ſteep to the North, and on the Top of it, at Warmlington, is a ſtrong large Entrenchment, ſaid to be Daniſh, but looks more like Britiſh. On the Deſcent of the Hill, between Radway and Keynton, was fought the aforementioned Battle; here alſo they ſhew where the Slain were bury'd, and have a Tra⯑dition, that King John had a Palace, and reſided at Keyntor.

There was likewiſe, at Cropredy Bridge, an En⯑counter between the Royaliſts and the Parliament⯑arians under Waller's Command.

Weſt of Edge-hill ſtands Shipton, a little Town, which has a very large Market.

[207] Banbury gave Title of Earl to the noble Family of Knolles, which it ſeems became extinct in 1632, when the laſt Earl died; but his Wife, marrying Nicolas Lord Vaux, had a Son by him, who took the Name of Knolles, and the Title of Earl; but was never ſummoned to Parliament, nor his Son after him, who is now living, and commonly called Lord Banbury.

From hence we rode Southward to Deddington, a large Town, but a very ſmall Market. It is govern'd by a Bailiff, and did formerly return Members to Parliament.

We turned a little Eaſt, and came to Biceſter, a ſtraggling indifferent Town; but remarkable for having had once a famous City in its Neighbourhood, called Aldcheſter, long ſince paſſed over by the Plough; and where many Roman Coins, Stones, and other Antiquities are found; which was undoubtedly the Maima of Ravennas. Biceſter is famous for excellent Malt Liquor, and has had formerly a Re⯑ligious Houſe.

Iſlip lying directly in our Way to Oxford, we paſſed thro' it. It is remarkable for the Birth of Edward the Confeſſor, and that Dr. South, as well as other eminent Divines, were Miniſters here. There are ſome Remains of an antient Palace ſtill left.

From hence I came to Oxford, famous for ſeveral Things, but chiefly for its being the moſt flouriſhing and conſiderable Univerſity in the World.

There has been a long Conteſt between the Two Engliſh Univerſities, about the Priority of their Foundations, which perhaps will never be decided, and ſo I paſs it over.

It is out of Queſtion, that in the Largeneſs of the Place, the Beauty of Situation, the Number of Inhabitants, and of Scholars, Oxford has the Advan⯑tage. In ſhort, Oxford has ſeveral Things as an [208] Univerſity, which Cambridge has not; and Cam⯑bridge has ſeveral Things in it, which cannot be found in Oxford. For Example,

The Theatre, the Muſeum or Chamber of Ra⯑rities, the Bodleian Library, the Number of Colleges, and the Magnificence of their Buildings, are on the Side of Oxford; yet King's College Chapel, and Col⯑lege, is in favour of Cambridge, being one of the fineſt Structures of its kind that can be ſeen; and the new Buildings erected lately there, make that whole Univerſity ſtill more conſiderable in this way.

Oxford is a noble flouriſhing City, ſo poſſeſſed of all that can contribute to make the Reſidence of the Scholars eaſy and comfortable, that no Spot of Ground in England goes beyond it. It is ſituated in a delight⯑ful Plain, on the Bank of a fine navigable River, in a plentiful Country, and at an eaſy Diſtance from London.

The City itſelf is large, populous and rich: and as it is adorn'd by the moſt beautiful Buildings of Colleges and Halls, it makes the moſt noble Figure of any City of its Bigneſs in Europe.

We ſhall preſent our Readers with a Liſt of the Colleges and Halls in this famous City, with a brief Hiſtory of them; but muſt obſerve, that as it would exceed our Limits to give an Account of the particular Benefactions by which their Revenues and Buildings are ſo ſplendidly augmented, we ſhall only mention ſuch of thoſe Benefactions as have been conferred within ſo few Years back, that they are not likely to be found in other Authors.

[224]What Additions have been made to ſome of the Colleges, by means of the Wills of Dr. Ratcliffe and Dr. Clarke, which I have juſt referred to, will, to avoid Repetition where I am ſo preſſed for Room, be beſt ſeen in Abſtracts of the ſaid Wills, which may ſerve as a Supplement to the foregoing Accounts of the Colleges. Dr. Ratcliff's is to the following Effect:

His Will bears Date Sept. the 13th 1714; and the Doctor died Nov. 1. the ſame Year.

We ſhall now add, That every thing being done in purſuance of this Will, which the Time ſince his Death would permit, it may be eaſily conceived what a glorious Addition the Buildings finiſhed, and finiſhing by its Direction, muſt be to this renowned Univerſity.

George Clarke, LL. D. was ſeveral Years Repre⯑ſentative in Parliament for the Univerſity of Oxford. and died October 12. 1736. Of whoſe Will take the following Abſtract:

You will refer, Sir, to the Accounts I have already given of the Colleges, and to the above Abſtracts of Dr. Radcliff's, and Dr. Clarke's Wills, and you will have a View of the State of theſe Colleges, even when the Works are finiſhed as directed by thoſe Gentle⯑men, and which will hold for Years to come without material Alteration, except in caſe of new Bene⯑factions.

I ſhall now give a Summary of what a Traveller may obſerve further in Oxford, en paſſant; and re⯑fer the more curious Inquirer to the Hiſtories of the Place, for a more ample and particular Account, than I have room to give.

Beſides theſe Colleges and Halls, there are ſome publick Buildings, which make a moſt glorious Ap⯑pearance: The firſt and greateſt of all is the Theatre, a Building not to be equall'd by any thing of its Kind and Bigneſs in the World. Sir Chriſtopher Wren was the Director of the Work. Archbiſhop Sheldon paid for it, and gave it to the Univerſity: there is a world of Decoration in the Front of it, and more beautiful Additions, by way of Ornament; and the inſide Roof, finely painted and decorated, is never enough to be admired.

The Bodleian Library is an Ornament in itſelf worthy of this famous Univerſity. I have not Room for its Hiſtory at large, but ſhall briefly obſerve, that the firſt publick Library in Oxford was erected in Durham College, now Trinity, by Richard Biſhop of [228] Durham, Lord Treaſurer to Edward III. it was afterward joined to another, founded by Cobham Biſhop of Wincheſter, and both inlarged by the Bounty of Humphry Duke of Glouceſter, Founder of the Divinity Schools. But theſe Libraries being loſt, and the Books embezzled, and the Place where they were depoſited, quite ruinous, Sir Thomas Bodley, a wealthy and learned Knight, having, at a vaſt Expence, collected Books and Manuſcripts from all Parts of the World, placed them in the old Library-room, built by the good Duke Humphry.

This great Work was brought to an Head the 8th of Nov. 1602, and has continued increaſing by the Benefactions of great and learned Men to this Day; ſuch as Archbiſhop Laud, the Earl of Pembroke, Oliver Cromwell, Selden, Digby, and other great Names.

Over it is a ſpacious Gallery, adorned with Pictures of Founders, Benefactors, &c. and with the antique Marbles, which were the learned Part of the inex⯑hauſtible Collection of the Earl of Arundel, which have been illuſtrated with the accurate Comments of Selden and Prideaux. Here are ſome of the moſt valuable Greek Monuments now in the World. Over the Porch, upon an handſome Pedeſtal of black Mar⯑ble, ſtands the Braſs Effigies of the Earl of Pembroke, their noble and generous Chancellor, given by the late Earl, moulded by Rubens. Alſo a very large Collection of Greek, Roman, Britiſh, Saxon, Eng⯑liſh, and other Coins, preſented by Sir T. Roe, and other Hands. And that indefatigable and learned Collector of Books, and valuable Manuſcripts, Dr. Tanner, Biſhop of St. Aſaph, who died December 12. 1735, bequeathed the moſt curious Part of his fine Collection to this noble Library.

In the Year 1740, by the Death of Mrs. Crew, Relict of George Crew, Eſq an Eſtate of 80l. per Annum is fallen to the Head Librarian's Poſt, which [229] before was very inconſiderable, tho' it required a conſtant Reſidence. This was a Legacy of the late Right Reverend and Right Honourable Nathanael Crew, Lord Biſhop of Durham, who was ſuch a good Benefactor to Lincoln College as we have mentioned.

Other curious Things in Oxford are, the Schools, (which are now beautifully repaired, and the Names and Arms of old Benefactors renewed and repainted) the Muſeum, the Chamber of Rarities, the Collec⯑tion of Coins, Medals, Pictures, and antient Inſcrip⯑tions, the Printing-houſe, the Phyſick-garden, the Univerſity and other Churches, the Convocation-houſe, &c. all worthy of a particular Deſcription, had I room to give it.

The Univerſity is govern'd by a Chancellor, choſen by Scrutiny or Collection of Votes; he is generally one of the firſt Noblemen of the Kingdom.

By a High-ſteward, choſen by the Chancellor.

By a Vice-chancellor, who muſt be one of the Heads of a College, recommended to the Univerſity by the Chancellor.

By Two Proctors, choſen annually by Turn out of the Colleges.

The other Officers are the publick Orator, and the Keeper of the Archives, Beadles, Virger, &c.

But tho' I have ſaid ſo much of the Univerſity, I muſt not quite forget the City. Let me then ob⯑ſerve, That before Baliol College they ſhew the Stone in the Street, which marks the Place of the Martyrdom of Archbiſhop Cranmer and Biſhop Ridley, then upon the Banks of the Ditch, without the City Walls, which went along where the Theatre now ſtands.

Beyond the River, ſtood Oſeny Abbey, founded 1129. Upon the Bridge is a Tower, call [...]d Frier Bacon's Study, from that famous and learned Monk.

[230]Over another Bridge, on the Iſis, we went to ſee Ruleigh Abbey, where ſome Ruins ſtill remain, turn'd to a common Brewhouſe.

Of the Caſtle remains a ſquare high Tower, by the River-ſide, and a lofty Mount, or Keep, walled at Top, with a Stair-caſe going downward.

The White-friers was a Royal Palace, and near a Green called Beaumonds, they ſhew'd us the Bottom of a Tower upon the Spot where the valiant Richard I. was born.

Without the Town, on all Hands, are to be ſeen the Fortifications erected in the late Civil Wars.

As to the City, tho' the Colleges make up Two-thirds of it, and are ſtill elbowing for more Room, yet 'tis large and regular, the Streets are ſpacious, clean, and ſtrait; the Place pleaſant and healthful, the Inhabitants genteel and courteous; the Churches many and elegant, eſpecially Allhallows; and taking it altogether, and including the Grandeur and En⯑dowment of the Colleges, their Chapels, Halls, Li⯑braries, Quadrangles, Piazza's, Gardens, Walks, Groves, &c. it muſt be conſider'd as the firſt Uni⯑verſity in the World, as I have before mention'd.

On the Left-hand, on the other Side the River, the laſt Remains of Godſtow Nunnery are ſituated among the ſweet Meadows. Here fair Roſamond had a remarkably fine Tomb; but before the Diſſo⯑lution, ſcarce could her Aſhes reſt, whoſe Beauty was thought guilty, as one ſays, even after Death.

I cannot leave Oxford without making one Ob⯑ſervation, with regard to thoſe who inſiſt, that it was to the Piety of the Popiſh Times which we owe the firſt Inſtitution of the Univerſity itſelf, the Foundation and Endowment of the particular Col⯑leges, and the Encouragement ariſing to Learning from thence: all which I readily grant; but would have them remember too, that tho' thoſe Foundations ſtood, as they tell us, 800 Years, and that the Re⯑formation, [231] as they ſay, is not above 200 Years ſtanding, yet Learning has more increaſed, and the Univerſities flouriſh'd more; more great Scholars been produced, greater Libraries been raiſed, and more fine Buildings been erected, in theſe 200 Years, than in the 800 Years of Popery; and I might add, as many great Benefactions have been given, not⯑withſtanding this very momentous Difference, that the Proteſtants Gifts are merely Acts of Charity to the World, and Acts of Bounty, in Reverence to Learning, and learned Men, without the grand In⯑citement of the State of their own Souls, and thoſe of their Fathers, which were to be pray'd out of Purgatory, and get a ready Admiſſion into Heaven.

Oxford was for many Years advantaged by the Neighbourhood of the Royal Court, while ſeveral Kings of England, being taken with the fine Situation of Woodſtock, made their Palace there the Place of their Summer Retreat.

Dr. Plott allows it to have been a Royal Houſe ever ſince King Alfred; and a Manuſcript in the Cotton Library confirms it; and that King Henry I. was not the Founder of it, but only rebuilt it. And as for Henry II. who kept his fair Roſamond in it, he made only ſome Additions to it, for the Entertain⯑ment and Security of his beautiful Miſtreſs. Not⯑withſtanding which, the Queen, having got Acceſs to her in the King's Abſence, as Tradition informs us, diſpatch'd her by Poiſon.

When I was firſt at Woodſtock ſome Years ago, I ſaw part of the old Palace, and the famous Labyrinth of fair Roſamond; but now theſe are deſtroy'd. Her Bathing-place or Well, as it is called, is left; a quadrangular Receptacle of pure Water, immediately flowing from a little Spring under the Hill, over⯑ſhadow'd with Trees; near which are ſome Ruins of Walls and Arches. King Ethelred called a Parlia⯑ment here. It has been a Royal Seat, as I have ſaid, [232] from moſt antient Times. Henry I. incloſed the Park. Acroſs this Valley was a remarkably fine Echo, that would repeat a whole Hexameter, but impair'd by the Removal of theſe Buildings. A ſtately Bridge, or Rialto rather, now leads along the grand Approach to the preſent Caſtle: one Arch is above 190 Feet Diameter; a Caſcade of Water falls from a Lake down ſome ſtone Steps into the Canal that runs under it.

The new Palace of Blenheim is a vaſt and magni⯑ficent Pile of Building; a Royal Gift to the high Merit of the invincible Duke of Marlborough. The lofty Hall is painted by Sir James Thornhill, the Ceiling by la Guerre. The Rooms are finely inrich'd with Marble Chimney-pieces and Furniture, but more by the incomparable Paintings and Hangings, which latter repreſent the principal Glories of the Duke's Life. Among the Pictures are many of Rubens's beſt and largeſt Pieces; that celebrated one of himſelf, his Wife and Child, among others: Van⯑dyke's King Charles I. upon a Dun Horſe, of great Value: and the famous Loves of the Gods, by Titian; a Preſent from the King of Sardinia. The Gallery is worthy Admiration, lined with Marble Pilaſters, and whole Pillars of one Piece, ſupporting a moſt coſtly and curious Entablature, excellent for Matter and Workmanſhip, the Window-frames of the ſame, and a Baſement of black Marble quite round. Before it, is ſtretched out a moſt agreeable Proſpect of the fine Woods beyond the great Valleys. What is of the moſt elegant Taſte in the whole Houſe, is of the Ducheſs's own Deſigning. The Chapel is equal to the reſt. The Garden is a very large Plot of Ground taken out of the Park, and may ſtill be ſaid to be a Part of it, well-contriv'd by ſinking the outer Wall into a Foſs, to give a View quite round, and take off the odious Appearance of Con⯑finement and Limitation to the Eye. It is within [233] well adorn'd with Walks, Greens, Eſpaliers, and Viſta's, to divers remarkable Objects, that offer them⯑ſelves in the circumjacent Country. Over the Pedi⯑ment of this Front of the Houſe is a curious Marble Buſto of Lewis XIV. bigger than the Life, taken from the Gate of the Citadel of Tournay. The Orangery is a pretty Room. Near the Gate of the Palace is the Houſe where our famous Chaucer was born. At the Entrance into the Caſtle from the Town, her Grace has erected a noble triumphal Arch, to the Memory of the Duke; and has ſet up a vaſt Obeliſk in the principal Avenue of the Park, whereon is inſcribed the beſt Account of the Duke's Actions and Character, that ever was penn'd in the ſame Compaſs; and if done by the maſterly Hand of that extraordinary Genius, to whom I have heard it attributed, muſt be a double Triumph to the Memory of the Duke, ſince his Merits extorted ſo noble a Teſtimony from a Perſon who was once engaged in Meaſures quite oppoſite to thoſe, which derived upon his Grace ſo exalted a Reputation, and who was thought to be at that Time one of his principal Adverſaries.

The Inſcription does ſo much Honour to the Me⯑mory of the Duke, and at the ſame time to the Britiſh Nation, that I cannot deny to myſelf the Pleaſure of inſerting it here, as follows:

At Woodſtock they make the fine Steel Chains for Watches, and other Things of poliſh'd Steel.

From Woodſtock I went North-weſt to Chipping-Norton, which muſt have been once a Town of great Trade, by the Number of Merchants, as they are called on the Braſſes over their Monuments; and beſides, the Name Chipping denotes as much. There are Marks of a Caſtle by the Church; and Roman Coins are frequently found here. The Church is a good Building, and after a curious Model.

Hence we rode to ſee Rowldrich Stones, a little Stone-henge, being a Circle of great Stones ſtanding upright, ſome of them from Five to Seven Feet high, and probably the Veſtigia of an old Britiſh Temple, as that was; and Mr. Toland poſitively aſſerts, that they were ſo.

[240]At Tidmerton Pariſh is a large Camp of an orbicular Form, on the Summit of an Hill, which is doubly intrenched, and able to contain a great Army.

When I was at Banbury, I ſhould have mentioned Bloxham, which lies North of it; where is a fine Church, the Steeple of an odd, but agreeable Make.

Near Bloxham, is alſo the famous Pariſh of Bright-well, of which it was obſerved, that there had not been an Alehouſe, nor a Diſſenter from the Church, nor any Quarrel among the Inhabitants, that roſe ſo high as to a Suit of Law, within the Memory of Man. But they could not ſay it was ſo ſtill, eſpe⯑cially as to the Alehouſe Part; tho' very much is ſtill preſerved as to the Unity and good Neighbour⯑hood of the Pariſhioners, and their Conformity to the Church.

Being now on the Side of Warwickſhire, as is ſaid before, I ſtill went South, and paſſing by the Four Shire Stones, we ſaw where the Counties of Oxford, Warwick, and Glouceſter, join all in a Point; one Stone ſtanding in each County, and the fourth touch⯑ing all Three.

Entering Glouceſterſhire here, Weſtward, we came, after a Mile's Ride, to Moretonhenmarſh, a ſmall Town which had formerly a Market, but now diſcontinued: it lies on the great Road to Worceſter. And the famous Roman Foſſeway, which coming out of Warwickſhire, enters this County at Lemington, which lies North-eaſt of this Town, ſtrikes thro' it, and alſo thro' Stow and North-Leach, down to Cirenceſter, Southward.

Hence we come to the famous Cotſwold-downs, ſo eminent for the beſt of Sheep, and fineſt Wool in England: Fame tells us, that ſome of theſe Sheep were ſent by King Richard I. into Spain, and that from hence the Breed of their Sheep was raiſed, which now produce ſo fine a Wool, that we are obliged to fetch it from thence at a great Price, for making our fineſt Broad Cloaths.

[241]Upon theſe Downs we had a clear View of the afore-mentioned famous Foſſe, which evidently croſſes all the Middle Part of England, and is to be ſeen and known (tho' in no Place plainer than here) quite from the Bath to Warwick, and thence to Leiceſter, to Newark, to Lincoln, and on to Barton, upon the Bank of Humber.

We obſerved alſo how ſeveral croſs Roads as antient as the Foſſe, join'd it, or branched out of it; ſome of which the People have by antient Uſage, tho' corruptly, called alſo Foſſes: For Example,

The Ackmanſtreet, which is an antient Saxon Road, leading from Buckinghamſhire thro' Oxfordſhire, to the Foſſe, and ſo to the Bath; this joins the Foſſe be⯑tween Burford and Cirenceſter. Alſo Grimes-dyke, from Oxfordſhire, Wattle-bank, or Aves-ditch, from the ſame, and the Would-way, call'd alſo the Foſſe, croſſing from Glouceſter to Cirenceſter.

Many Seats of the Nobility are to be found in theſe Parts; Cornbury, Lord Clarendon's; Ditchley, Lord Litchfield's; Hathorp, the late Duke of Shrewſbury's, new built of Stone very beautifully.

The Lech, the Coln, the Churn, and the Iſis, all riſe in the Cotſwould Hills, and joining together, make a full Stream at Lechlade near this Place, and become one River there, and are called the Thames, which begins there to be navigable; and Barges may be ſeen at the Quay, taking in Goods for London: which makes Lechlade very populous. Of which Town more by-and-by.

Stow on the Would, which is the next Town we came to, is but indifferent to look at; but is, or rather has been, remarkable for its Two annual Fairs, fa⯑mous for Hops, Cheeſe, and Sheep, of which, 'tis ſaid, that above 20,000 are generally ſold at one Fair, and that the Toll of theſe Fairs and the Markets, amount to 80l. a Year. The Pariſh is very large, being 12 Miles in Compaſs, and conſiſts of Meadow, [242] Arable, and Paſture. Here is a good large Rectory Church ſtanding on a Hill, with a high Tower on the South-ſide of it, which is ſeen a great Diſtance off. Here is alſo an Hoſpital, Alms-houſe, and Free-ſchool, all well endow'd; beſides other Charities.

Northleche is alſo a Market-town, governed by a Bailiff and Two Conſtables, and is named from the River Leche, which runs through it. Here is a Vicarage Church, large and ſpacious, having Ayles on each Side, and handſome Windows, with a large Tower. Here is a Grammar-ſchool, free for all the Boys of the Town, endow'd with 80l. a Year. And 'tis ſaid, that the Founder, falling afterwards into Misfortunes, ſolicited for the Maſter's Place of his own School, but could not obtain it from the Truſtees.

Here we quitted the Roman Foſſe, and went Eaſt-ward to Burford in Oxfordſhire. King Henry II. gave this Town a Charter, Guildam & omnes conſue⯑tudines, quas habent liberi Burgenſes de Oxenford; but they are almoſt all now loſt: however it retains ſome Marks of a Corporation ſtill, being governed by Two Bailiffs, and other inferior Officers. It is famous for Saddles, and, lying near the Downs, draws great Profit from the Horſe-races, which are frequent here. At this Place was convened a Synod in 685, againſt the Error of the Britiſh Churches in the Obſervance of Eaſter.

At Battle-edge, near this Town, Cuthred, King of the Weſt Saxons, beat Ethelbald, King of the Mercians, in a pitch'd Battle, and threw off his Yoke. The Inhabitants celebrate yearly, on Mid⯑ſummer-eve, a kind of Feſtival, which, they ſay, commenced in Honour of this Battle. It was here the learned Dr. Heylin (deſcended originally from an antient Family in Wales) was born; and the famous Speaker Lenthal had a Seat, and died here.

[243]Being ſo near Witney, we could not forbear taking a Ride to ſee a Town ſo famous for the Manufactures of Blanketing and Rugs, which thrive here in a moſt extraordinary manner. Here are at work 150 Looms continually, for which above 3000 People, from Eight Years old and upward, are daily imploy'd in Carding, Spinning, &c. and conſume above 100 Packs of Wool weekly. The Blankets are uſually 10 or 12 Quarters wide, and very white, which ſome attribute to the abſterſive nitrous Waters of the River Windruſh, wherewith they are ſcoured; but others believe it is owing to a peculiar way of looſe Spinning they uſe here; and others again are of Opinion, that it proceeds from both. But however that be, this Town has engroſſed the whole Trade in that Commodity, and increaſes daily in its Repu⯑tation. They likewiſe make here the Duffield Stuffs, a Yard and three Quarters wide, which are carried to New England and Virginia, and now much worn even here in Winter. Here are likewiſe a great many Fellmongers, who having dreſſed and ſtained their Sheep-ſkins, make them into Jackets and Breeches, and ſell them at Bampton; from whence they are diſperſed all over the neighbouring Counties. Here is a good Free-ſchool, and a fine Library be⯑longing to it.

Witney is an antient Town, and of good Repute before the Conqueſt; but it is a long, ſtraggling, un⯑couth Place, tho' full of Inhabitants. 'Twas one of the Manors which Alwinus, Biſhop of Wincheſter gave to the Church of St. Swithin's there, on Queen Emma's happily paſſing over the Fire Ordeal.

At Aſtal, a Village in the Road between Burford and Witney, is a Barrow which ſtands very high, and is ſuppoſed to be the Sepulchre of ſome Perſon of great Note.

Southward lies Bampton, on the Borders of the County next Berkſhire. It is an antient Market-town, [244] likewiſe in Repute before the Conqueſt: it is noted for the greateſt Market for Fellmonger-wares in England, which come from Witney, and for nothing elſe that I know of, ſaving that the People talk'd much of a Family of the Woods (that dwelt here and at Briſenorton) who hear always a great Knocking before any of them die.

Turning here Weſt, we enter'd Glouceſterſhire again, and came to Lechlade, which lies on the great Road to Glouceſter. It is probable, that it was antiently a Roman Town upon the Thames; for a very plain Roman Road runs from hence to Cirenceſter. Some ſay, that it was once a famous Univerſity for teaching Latin, as Creeklade was for Greek.

The antient Building lately diſcovered by digging in a Meadow near Lechlade, deſerves a particular Mention: it is 50 Feet long, 40 broad, and Four high; ſupported with 100 Brick Pillars, curiouſly inlaid with Stones of divers Colours, of Teſſeraick Work; and ſuppoſed to be a Roman Bath.

Not far from it are the Two Towns called Sarney; ſo named, in Britiſh, from the Roman Cauſways; for Sarn, in that antient Language, and at preſent, imports a paved Way. The River Lech runs thro' it, and diſcharges itſelf into the Thames. A great Num⯑ber of Barges go from hence to London.

From Lechlade we proceeded Weſt to Fairford, a ſmall Market-town, thro' which runs the River Coln, which has Two large Bridges over it. A great many Medals and Urns have been often dug up here, and there are ſeveral Barrows in the adjoining Fields, (which ſeem to have been a Scene of warlike Actions) the Monuments of the Slain interred here.

A great many Charities are ſtill ſubſiſting in this Town; but what it is moſt noted for is its Church, and the admirable Painting in its Windows: of which take the following Deſcription and Hiſtory.

[245] John Tame, a Merchant of London, purchaſed this Manor of King Henry VII. (to whom it deſcended from the Beauchamps, Earls of Warwick) and have⯑ing taken a Prize-ſhip bound for Rome, wherein he found a great Quantity of painted Glaſs, he brought both the Glaſs and the Workmen into England. The Glaſs was ſuch a Curioſity, that Mr. Tame built this Church at Fairford (dedicating it to the Virgin Mary); which is in Length 125 Feet, and 55 in Breadth; and has Three Chancels, a good Veſtry, and a noble Tower, ariſing from the Midſt of it, adorned with Pinacles; and the Windows of the Church, 28 in Number, he cauſed to be glazed with this invaluable Prize, which remains intire to this Day, the Admiration of all that ſee it.

Mrs. Farmer (a Daughter of the Lord Lemſter) gave 200l. to be laid out in mending and wiring the Windows: this has preſerved them from Acci⯑dents. And in the grand Rebellion, the Impropriator Mr. Oldworth, and others, (to their great Praiſe be it remembred) took down the Glaſs, and ſecured it in ſome ſecret Place, thereby preſerving it from Fa⯑natick Rage. The Painting was the Deſign of Albert Durer, a famous Italian Maſter; and the Colouring in the Drapery, and ſome of the Figures, is ſo well perform'd, that Vandyke affirmed, the Pencil could not exceed it.

The Subject is all Scripture Hiſtory, viz. The Ser⯑pent tempting Eve; God appearing in the burning Buſh to Moſes, when a Shepherd; the Angel con⯑ducting Joſhua to War; Gideon's Fleece; the Queen of Sheba's Viſit to Solomon; King David judging the Amalekite Regicide; Samſon ſlaying the Phi⯑liſtines, killing the Lion, and his being betray'd by Dalilah; Solomon's Judgment between the Two Harlots; and the Figures of the Twelve Major Prophets.

[246]But the greateſt Part is taken up with Stories of the New Teſtament: The Angel appearing to Zacharias; Joſeph and Mary contracted; the Viſitation of Mary by the Angel, and her viſiting her Couſin Elizabeth; our Saviour born in a Stable; the Shepherds and Magi viſiting him there; Herod waiting the Return of the wiſe Men; Chriſt circumciſed; the Puri⯑fication of the Holy Virgin; Simeon with our Saviour in his Arms; Joſeph's Flight into Egypt; Herod ſlaying the young Children of Bethlehem; the Aſſumption of the Virgin, and Joſeph and her ſeeking Jeſus at the Feaſt: our Saviour's Transfigu⯑ration, Mary anointing his Head: the Diſciples going to embalm him, and the Angel relating to them his Reſurrection; Chriſt's Appearance to Mary Magdalen; his riding to Jeruſalem on an Aſs; Zaccheus, and the People ſtrewing Palm-branches, and Children crying Hoſanna; his Praying in the Garden; Judas betraying him; Pilate judging him, and waſhing his Hands from the Guilt; the Crucifixion between two Thieves, the Women ſtanding by, and the Soldiers watching him; Joſeph of Arimathea begging the Body, and receiving it; his Burial by Nicodemus and others; the Darkneſs at the Paſſion, and Michael contending with the Devil.

Chriſt's travelling to Emmaus, and his Appearance to the Eleven, and afterwards to Thomas; the Diſciples going a Fiſhing, and Chriſt's appearing to them, with the breaking of the Net, and broiling of the Fiſh; Chriſt's Aſcenſion, and the Deſcent of the Holy Ghoſt in cloven Tongues.

In the Weſt Window is the Laſt Judgment curi⯑ouſly deſigned, and well executed, containing a vaſt Number of Incidents relating thereto.

In the reſt of the Windows are many hiſtorical Paſſages, that happened after Chriſt's Aſcenſion; viz. The Twelve Apoſtles at large, with the Article of the Creed they are ſaid to be ſeverally the Authors of; [247] the Four Evangeliſts, as writing the Goſpels; Four principal Fathers of the Church, viz. St. Jerom, St. Gregory, St. Ambroſe, and St. Auſtin; the Worthies that have preſerved the Chriſtian Church, in four Upper-windows of the Middle Ayle on the South Side, and the Perſecutors thereof in the four oppoſite Windows.

I have been as brief as poſſible in this Deſcription, being ſo much confined in my Limits; but a curious Traveller will be highly delighted with this noble Work. And I ſhall only add, That John Tame, Eſq the pious and worthy Founder, who died in the Year 1500, lies buried on the North Side of the Church, under a raiſed Marble Monument.

On the Churn, one of the Rivers I have juſt named, ſtands Cirenceſter, (or Ciceſter, for Brevity) the antient Corinium of the Romans, and ſaid to be rebuilt by Ciſſa, a Viceroy under one of the Saxon Kings, a great and populous City; then incloſed with Walls and a Ditch of vaſt Compaſs, which may be traced quite round. The Foundation of the Wall is alſo very viſible in moſt Places. A good Part of this Circuit is now Paſture, Corn Fields, and Gardens, beſides the Scite of the preſent Town. Antiquities are dug up here every Day; old Foundations, Houſes and Streets, and many Moſaick Pavements with Rings, Intaglia's, and Coins innumerable, eſpecially in one great Garden called Lewis Grounds, which might have been the Praetorium or General's Quarters; for Llys, in Britiſh, ſignifies a Palace. Large Quantities of carved Stones are carried off yearly in Carts, to mend the Highways, beſides what have been uſed in Building. A fine Moſaick Pavement was dug up here Anno 1723, with many Coins. One Mr. Richard Biſhop lately dug up in his Garden a Vault 16 Feet long, and 12 broad, ſupported with ſquare Pillars of Roman Brick, three Feet and an half high, on which was a ſtrong Floor of Terrace. [248] Near it are now ſeveral other Vaults, on which Cherry-trees grow. Theſe might have been the Foundations of a Temple; for in the ſame Place they found ſeveral Stones of the Shafts of Pillars Six Feet long, and large Stone Baſes, with Cornices very handſomely moulded, and carved with Modilions and other Ornaments, which are now converted into Swine-troughs, and Pavements before the Door. Capitals of theſe Pillars were likewiſe found. A Moſaick Pavement near it, and intire, is now the Floor of his Privy.

Half a Mile Weſt of the Town, on the North Side of the Foſſe Road, at a Place called Quern, other Antiquities are to be ſeen worth an Antiquary's Attention; but I muſt not take up too much Room in deſcribing them.

Little of the Abbey is now leſt, beſides Two old and indifferent Gate-houſes. The Church is a very handſome Building; the Windows are full of painted Glaſs; and it has a fine lofty Tower. Eaſt of the Town, about a Quarter of a Mile, is Starbury Mount, a Barrow, where Roman Coins have been dug up. Weſt, behind Lord Bathurſt's Garden, is Griſmund's Mount, of which ſeveral Fables are told.

Cirenceſter is ſtill a very good Town, populous and rich, full of Clothiers, and driving a great Trade in Wool, which is brought from the Inland Counties of Leiceſter, Northampton, and Lincoln, where the largeſt Sheep in England feed, and where are but few Manufactures. The vaſt Quantities ſold here are almoſt incredible. The Wool is bought up here, chiefly by the Clothiers of Wiltſhire and Glouceſter⯑ſhire, for the Supply of that great Cloathing-trade, which I have mentioned already: they talk of 5000 Packs in a Year.

The Town is governed by Two High Conſtables. It has Two weekly Markets; one on Monday, for Corn, Cattle, and Proviſions; and on Friday, for [249] Wool chiefly. It has alſo Five Fairs, Three for all Sorts of Commodities, and Two for Cloth only. Here is a fine large beautiful Church with Two Ayles, ſupported by ſtrong Pillars. The Chancel is handſomely decorated. It has Five Chapels adjoin⯑ing to it, and has a Tower very neat and lofty, with an excellent Ring of Bells in it. The Windows ſhew ſome beautiful Remains of exquiſite painted Glaſs. There is a Free-ſchool, and divers Hoſpitals and Alms-houſes in this Pariſh.

The Churn runs from hence down Southward to Creeklade in Wiltſhire, which is ſaid to have been antiently a very noted Place, containing 1300 Houſes, and that an Univerſity was here founded by the antient Britons, for teaching Greek, as I have ſaid, as Lech⯑lade was for Latin; which Univerſity was removed, as they pretend, by the Saxons, to Oxon: but, I doubt, theſe are Monkiſh Accounts; for Creeklade, which they would have to ſignify a Greek Town, is a Corruption of the Britiſh Word Kerigg gwlade, i. e. a ſtony Country. The Churn and the Rey fall, here, into the Thames. Here is a good Free-ſchool.

North-weſt of Cirenceſter, upon a Hill, ſtands Stroud, a little Market-town, noted for Clothing, and particularly for dying excellent Scarlet. The Church is 90 Feet long, and 40 broad. The Chancel is 33 Feet long, and 16 wide. At the Weſt End of the Church riſes a high Spire Steeple, and a Tower in the Middle.

North of it ſtands Paynſwick, a Market-town, ſituate in the wholſomeſt Air in the County, on the River Stroud, where the Cloathing-trade is alſo car⯑ried on. The Church is a Vicarage, and very handſome, with Two Chancels, a North Ayle, and a neat Spire.

Lower to the South-weſt of Cirenceſter ſtands Minching Hampton; ſo called, becauſe it belonged to the Minching Nuns at Caen in Normandy. Here [250] is a good Rectory Church worth 200l. a Year, large, in the Form of a Croſs with Ayles on each Side, and a Tower with Battlements riſing in the Middle. In the North Ayle are a great many Inſcriptions of Be⯑nefactions. And in the South Ayle is a Statue lying croſs-legg'd, with a Sword and Shield by him, and his Wife lying at his Feet.

Then we came to Tetbury, one of the Cloathing Towns I mentioned; a conſiderable Market-town, ſituate on a riſing Ground, in a healthy Air, but ſcarce of Water in Summer. 'Tis well-built, has a large Market-houſe well frequented for Yarn; and there is a leſſer Market-houſe, for Cheeſe, Bacon, and other Commodities. 'Tis govern'd by a Bailiff, and at the End of the Town is a long Bridge, whereof one half is in Wiltſhire. The Church is a Vicarage, worth 120l. a Year: 'tis a good Build⯑ing, large and handſome, in which are divers Monu⯑ments. Here is a Free-ſchool and an Alms-houſe. It had formerly a Caſtle built by Dunwallo Malmu⯑fius, a Britiſh Prince. The Town ſeems to be well furniſhed with every thing but Water, which is ſo ſcarce, that the Inhabitants are obliged to buy it at the Rate ſometimes of 18d. for a Hogſhead. In this Pariſh riſes the River Avon, which runs thro' Briſtol, and afterwards falls into the Severn.

A little to the North of this Town is a Meadow called Maudlin Meadow, becauſe, as I was told, it belongs to Magdalen College in Oxford. Here the Inhabitants ſhewed me the Head of a Spring, which flowing from thence runs along a Hedge-trough, and ſome Tops of the Wood, that grows in the Hedge, rotting, and falling into this Rill of Water, are, by it, turned into Stone. I took up a great many of them, which are generally in the Shape of the Pipes (as they are commonly called) which the Peruke-makers curl their Hair upon, and of a whitiſh ſtony Subſtance. I broke divers of them, and in the [251] middle found generally a Stick of Wood, ſome as big as a Gooſe-quill, others larger; ſome had but a thin ſtony Cruſt about them, in others the Stick was no biggar than a large Needle: again, ſome had no Stick in them, but only a Hole thro' them, like that of a Tobacco Pipe; and in ſome others, I could per⯑ceive no woody Subſtance, nor Hole at all, but the Whole was a ſoft Kind of Stone.—Hence I gueſs, that the Sand which the Water brings down with it, gathers and cruſts about thoſe Sticks; and that, in time, the Stick conſumes, and the ſtony or ſandy Subſtance fills up and ſupplies its Place. And I would hence recommend it as an Inquiry, Whether thoſe other Tranſmutations of this Kind, that we meet with in the Natural Hiſtory of this and other Nations, be not brought about in the like manner.

And now I am dipp'd into this Work of Nature, let me digreſs a little, and take notice of the Aſtroites, or Star-ſtones, found at Laſſington in this County, which have that peculiar Quality of Motion when put into Vinegar.—In the Fields, near Badminton, are found cylindrical and ſpherical Stones, almoſt as big as Cannon Balls. And on the Hills about Aldely, are found Stones of the ſame Kind with thoſe I found about Watchet in Somerſetſhire, reſembling all Kinds of Shell-fiſh: theſe, I muſt confeſs, are, of the two, more aſtoniſhing, becauſe they are found on the Hills; for if they were, as Fracaſtorius conjectures, Animals ingendered in the Sea, no good Account of their being here found can be given, unleſs we ſuppoſe them brought hither by the general Deluge.—The Water of the River Stroud, in this County, is eſteemed the beſt for Dying Scarlets, which draws many Clothiers to ſettle in that Neigh⯑bourhood. And leſt I ſhould be thought too tedious, let me but juſt mention the Diamonds (Briſtol Stones rather) found near the Banks of the River Avon. That ſoft, eaſy-to-be-wrought Stone at Great Ban⯑ington, [252] called Puff-ſtone, prodigiouſly ſtrong and laſt⯑ing; a great deal af of which hath been uſed in the Repairs of Weſtminſter Abbey.

Wickwar, a ſmall Market-town, but a very an⯑tient Corporation, governed by a Mayor, is the next. The Church is a large Edifice, with Two Chancels. The Tower is at the Weſt End, and is high, adorn'd with Pinacles. Here is a Free-ſchool.

Chipping Sodbury lies a little farther in the Road, an antient Borough-town, under a Mayor, Aldermen and Burgeſſes. As it is a great Thorough-fare to Briſtol, it is full of good Inns. It has ſeveral Streets beſides Lanes, and a good Market; and a large ſpa⯑cious Church, which, however, is but a Chapel of Eaſe to Old Sodbury. Here is the greateſt Cheeſe-market in England, except Atherſtone in War⯑wickſhire.

Here we dropp'd the Road, and fell down South⯑ward, directly to Marſhfield, another of the Cloath⯑ing Towns I ſpoke of. It conſiſts of one Street of old Buildings near a Mile long. It has a Market, and drives alſo a great Trade in Malt, and is noted for good Cakes. 'Tis governed by a Bailiff. Here is a good Vicarage Church, with ſeveral Monuments and Inſcriptions in the Ayles, and the Chancel. Here is an Alms-houſe well endow'd, and a Chapel to it.

We croſſed the great Road from London to Briſtol here, as at Cirenceſter we did that from London to Glouceſter; and keeping ſtill the Foſſeway, arrived at Bath. But here I ſhall conclude this Letter, and am, Sir,

LETTER V. CONTAINING A Deſcription of Part of the Counties of Somerſet, Glouceſter, Warwick, Wor⯑ceſter, Hereford, and Monmouth.

I Cloſed my laſt Letter with my Arrival at BATH, in Somerſetſhire; and I ſhall now proceed with giving you an Account of what is moſt remarkable in it.

The Antiquity of this City, and of the famous Baths in it, muſt be allow'd to be very great, even tho' we ſhould doubt of what is inſiſted on in the Inſcription under the Figure of King Bladud, placed in the King's Bath, which ſays, that this Prince (whom Mr. Camden calls Blayden, or Bladen Cloyth, i. e. Southſayer) found out the Uſe of theſe Baths, 300 Years before our Saviour's Time.

Bath is a Spot of Ground, which our Countrymen ought to eſteem as a particular Favour of Heaven. It lies in a great Valley, ſurrounded with an Amphi⯑theatrical View of Hills; and its Situation on the Weſt Side of the Iſland is a conſiderable Addition to its Delights, as being the leſs liable to the rude Shocks of [254] Tempeſts. But the Romans were induced prudently to make a Station here by the admirable hot Springs. The Walls are almoſt intire, and perhaps the Work of the Romans, except the upper Part, which ſeems repaired with the Ruins of Roman Buildings; for the Lewis-holes are ſtill left in many of the Stones, and, to the Shame of the Repairers, many Roman In⯑ſcriptions, ſome ſawn acroſs, to fit the Size of the Place. The Level of the City is riſen to the Top of the firſt Walls, thro' the Negligence of the Magiſtracy, who, in this, and all other great Towns, connive at the Servants throwing Dirt and Aſhes into the Streets. Theſe Walls incloſe but a ſmall Com⯑paſs, of a pentagonal Form. There are four Gates on four Sides, and a Poſtern on the other. From the South-weſt Angle have been an additional Wall and Ditch carried out to the River; by which ſhort Work the Approach of an Enemy on two Sides is intercepted, unleſs they paſs the River. The ſmall Compaſs of the City has made the Inhabitants croud up the Streets to an unſeemly and inconvenient Narrowneſs. It is, however, handſomely built, moſtly of new Stone, which is very white and good. The great Additions made, and ſtill making, to the Buildings here, I ſhall mention by-and-by.

It was of old a Reſort for Cripples, and diſ⯑eaſed Perſons; and we ſee the Crutches hang up at the ſeveral Baths, as the Thank-offerings of thoſe who came hither lame, and went away cured. But now we may ſay it is a Reſort of the Sound, as well as the Sick, and a Place that helps the Indolent and the Gay to commit that worſt of Murders, that is to ſay, to kill Time.

To ſuch it is indeed a conſtant Round of Diver⯑ſion. In the Morning the young Lady is brought in a cloſe Chair, dreſſed in her Bathing-cloaths, to the Croſs-bath. There the Muſick plays her into the Bath, and the Women who tend her, preſent her [255] with a little floating Wooden Diſh, like a Baſon; in which the Lady puts a Handkerchief, and a Noſegay, and of late the Snuff-box is added. She then traverſes the Bath, if a Novice, with a Guide; if otherwiſe, by herſelf; and having amus'd herſelf near an Hour, calls for her Chair, and re⯑turns to her Lodgings.

The reſt of the Diverſion is at Mrs. Hayes's, for⯑merly Harriſon's, a ſtately Room, and Mrs. Wilt⯑ſhire's, who has now the Apartments that were the late Mrs. Lindſey's, where not long ſince was the Bowling-green. And perhaps Mr. Leake, who keeps one of the fineſt Bookſellers Shops in Europe, has more than a Chance for half an Hour of each Per⯑ſon's Company now-and-then, and to be ſure a Subſcription, which is but five Shillings the Seaſon, for taking home what Book you pleaſe; but Perſons of Quality generally ſubſcribe Gold, and I think it is the very beſt Money laid out in the Place, for thoſe who go for Pleaſure or Amuſement only. In the Afternoon there is frequently a Play, tho' the Decorations are mean, and indeed the Performances too. In the Evening, People aſſemble at the great Rooms, and there are Balls twice a Week. 'Tis alſo the Faſhion of the Place, for the Company to go every Day pretty conſtantly to hear Divine Service at the great Church, and at St. Mary's Chapel in Queen's-ſquare, where are Prayers twice a Day.

'Tis remarkable that for many Hundreds of Years, the Medicinal Virtues of theſe Waters have been uſeful to the diſeaſed People by Batheing only; whereas of late Years they are found to be no leſs healthful in many Caſes taken inwardly; inſomuch, that more come to drink than to bathe; nor are the Cures they perform this way, leſs valuable than the outward Application.

Gaming uſed to obtain here, as at all publick Places, to a ſcandalous Degree; but the Act pro⯑hibiting [256] that pernicious Practice; has a good deal checked its Progreſs. This Act paſſed in the 12th of King George II. and ſuppreſſes, on the Penalty of 200l. and 50l. the Adventures, the following Games by Name; viz. The Ace of Hearts, Pharaoh, Baſ⯑ſet, Hazard; alſo all Sales, Raffles, Lotteries, Mathematical Machines, &c. Sales by Lotteries are declared void, and what is put up by them for⯑feited; nor are Convictions to be vacated for want of Form.

But this Act being eluded by new Games ſet up, a Clauſe was inſerted in the Horſe-racing Act, Anno 13 Geo. II. prohibiting Paſſage, and all other Games with Dice, except what are play'd on the Back⯑gamon Tables.

As to the more particular Nature and Virtues of the Waters, I have been favoured, by a very eminent Phyſician, with the following curious Account of tham, and their Original.

Great Additions have been made to the Buildings here within theſe few Years; particularly by the Duke of Chandos.

Without the Walls, a ſtately new Square is erected, with a fine Chapel, and the Middle is in⯑cloſed by Rails, and handſomely laid out within.

In the Centre is a lofty Obeliſk 70 Feet high from the Foundation, and terminated in a Point. Level with one's Eye is the incloſed Inſcription: ‘IN MEMORY
OF HONOUR BESTOW'D,
AND IN GRATITUDE
FOR BENEFITS CONFERR'D
IN THIS CITY,
BY HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
FREDERICK
PRINCE OF WALES,
AND HIS ROYAL CONSORT,
IN THE YEAR M.DCC.XXXVIII.
THIS OBELISK IS ERECTED,
BY RICHARD NASH, Eſq’

The Bath-ſtone, which I have mention'd before, affords a fine Opportunity to imbelliſh and give a noble Look to the Buildings here, and at a very cheap Rate; for the Front of the Houſes on the North Side of the Square coſt no more than 500l. tho' it is above 200 Feet in Extent, and inriched with Co⯑lumns [259] and Pilaſters in the Corinthian Order. All the Danger is, that they will over-build themſelves now they are got into the Humour, and make it leſs worth while to thoſe who let Lodgings, the prin⯑cipal Buſineſs of the Place; but then People of Fortune, ſettling there, will make amends for it; ſince no leſs than 70 or 80 Families are already be⯑come conſtant Inhabitants, and others are daily taking Houſes.

The Grove too, near the Abbey-church, now cal⯑led Orange-ſquare, in Compliment to the Prince of Orange, when there, has ſeveral handſome new-built Houſes; and a monumental Stone is erected, with an Inſcription in Honour to the Prince of Orange, and the Place; his Highneſs having been obliged to viſit Bath for his Health, juſt before he married the Princeſs Royal of England, and received great Benefit by the Waters. This likewiſe was erected by the famous Mr. Naſh, to whoſe good Management and Behaviour Bath is greatly indebted; every one ſubmitting with Delight to the Regulations he impoſes, with regard to Decorum, and the Oeconomy of the Place.

The Inſcription on the Stone above, is as follows:‘In Memoriam
Sanitatis
Principi Auriaco
Aquarum Thermalium Potu,
Favente DEO,
Ovante BRITANNIA,
Feliciter Reſtitutae.
M.DCC.XXXV.’ Thus tranſlated: ‘In Memory of the happy Reſto⯑ration of the Health of the Prince of Orange by the drink⯑ing of the Bath Waters, thro' the Favour of GOD, and to the extreme Joy of Britain, 1735.’

General Wade, one of the Repreſentatives in Par⯑liament for this City, has given a fine Altar-piece to the great Church there: He has alſo been at the Charge of having the Picture drawn of every one of his Electors, (the Members of the Corporation) and ſet up round the Town-hall; and his own too he has [260] ſuffer'd to be put up over the Entrance, as if he would make good that Paſs, and keep them all to Duty. At the Upper-end of the Hall are lately ſet up the Pictures of the Prince and Princeſs of Wales, a Preſent made by their Royal Highneſſes to the Cor⯑poration, who likewiſe before preſented it with a fine large wrought Silver Cup and Waiter, gilt.

There is a very great Narrowneſs of Spirit in moſt of the Inhabitants at Bath: but, indeed, it is the ſame in all publick Places of Reſort. They have but their Seaſons; and they are ſo hungry by that time they come about, that they look upon a new Comer, as a Perſon to be ſhared and divided among them: for this Reaſon you'll always find them with both Hands open to receive; and not one to com⯑municate, or do a generous Office, without a Benefit in Poſſeſſion or Reverſion. And when they receive a Favour at your Hands, 'tis with ſuch an Air, as if it were their Due, and they quitted Scores with you by their Acceptance of it.