A DESCRIPTION OF THE ROAD FROM LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL; WITH EVERY THING WORTH NOTICE IN THE WAY.
BY THE REV. DR. TRUSLER.
London: SOLD BY SHEPPERSON AND CO. NO. 137, OXFORD-STREET, BYFIELD AND CO. STATIONERS, CRAIG'S COURT, CHARING CROSS, AND FAULDER, BOOKSELLER, BOND-STREET; AND THE BOOKSELLERS OF BATH AND BRISTOL, WHERE MAY BE HAD ALL DR. TRUSLER'S BOOKS.
1797.
A DESCRIPTION OF THE ROAD FROM LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL.
[]THE Bath road is meaſured from Hyde Park corner. On the right as we leave London, is Hyde Park, a park belonging to the crown; it is much frequented by thoſe who wiſh to take the air, either on foot, on horſeback, or in carriages. In fine weather, it is generally crowded from two o'clock in the afternoon till five.
The firſt village that occurs, as ſoon as we are through the turnpike-gate, is Knightſbridge. On entering this place, oppoſite the Park wall, ſtands St. George's Hoſpital, an endowment for ſick and lame. A little beyond this, the road falls off on the left to Chelſea and Fulham-bridge.
About half a mile from the gate, on the right, going out of Knightſbridge, is a new building, ſtand⯑ing within the Park wall, built as barracks for the ſoldiery.
[4]About two miles from town, is the village of Kenſington; on the right as you enter it, is one of the King's palaces; the gardens to which are laid out in lawn and ſhrubbery, and kept in good order, and are open certain hours of the day for people to walk in.
This ſpot was formerly the ſeat of the Veres, an⯑ceſtors of the Earls of Oxford, to whom it was given by William the Conqueror: it afterwards fell into the poſſeſſion of Lord Chancellor Finch, Earl of Nottingham; and was from him purchaſed by William III. who built the palace. It has been the temporary reſidence of ſucceſſive Kings and Queens of England, from William III. to George II. who died there.
Going out of Kenſington on the right, on an eminence ſtands Camden Houſe, once a noble re⯑treat, now a boarding ſchool for young ladies.
The next houſe on the right, whoſe grounds ad⯑join Camden Houſe; and near the turnpike, is a ſtately Gothic ſtructure, on the ſummit of a ſpa⯑cious lawn, called Holland Houſe; belonging to the Earl of Holland, and built by an anceſtor, in the reign of Elizabeth.
Near the three mile ſtone we enter Hammer⯑ſmith, a long and ſtraggling village, in which lives, a little to the left, near the church, the Margrave of Anſpach.
[5] A little beyond the four mile ſtone is Turnham green; on the entrance to this place the road turns off on the left to Chiſwick; a pleaſant village, within a mile, on the banks of the Thames: near which is a ſmall houſe, built in the ſtile of an Ita⯑lian villa, by the late Lord Burlington, now the property of the Duke of Devonſhire.
On the right, at about half a mile diſtant, but in view, is a houſe, called Gunnerſbury Houſe, built by Mr. Webb, ſon-in-law to Inigo Jones; it was the property and reſidence of the late Princeſs Amelia, aunt to the preſent King.
A little beyond this, on the left, ſtands Kew⯑bridge, croſſing the Thames, and leading to Kew, Richmond, &c. in the county of Surrey. The road from London here, as far Colnbrooke, is in the county of Middleſex.
We now enter the old town of Brentford, which, with the new town in continuance, is more than a mile in length. This town is poor, dirty, and ſtraggling; it ſtands on the banks of the Thames; on the oppoſite ſhore of which, are the beautiful and royal gardens of Kew and Richmond, The ſeven mile ſtone ſtands at the corner of a ſtreet, leading into the road to Ealing and Uxbridge.
Brentford is a market town, and the county town, where the members for the county are choſen, on a building erected for the purpoſe, behind the mar⯑ket houſe. Deſpicable as this town appears, it [6]carries on a good trade with the metropolis, by means of the river, in corn, malt, and other com⯑modities.
In 1612, Charles I. beat his enemies at this place; and the Earl of Forth, commander of the Kings forces, was created Earl of Brentford, which title became extinct at his death, in 1651.
Paſſing the bridge, as we leave the town on the right, is the navigable canal from Uxbridge, &c. that enters the Thames hard by.
A little beyond Brentford on the left, is the co⯑lonnade or gates entering the ſeat of the Duke of Northumberland, called Sion Houſe, from a mo⯑naſtery founded here, in 1414, by Henry V. Ed⯑ward VI. gave it to his uncle, the Protector, in 1547, who began to build this magnificent ſtruc⯑ture, the walls of which now remain. After the attainder and execution of this nobleman, it was confiſcated, and afterwards given to the Duke of Northumberland, and on his execution, in 1553, it reverted to the Crown: James II. gave it to the Earl of Northumberland and his heirs for ever. The houſe is a quadrangle, of white ſtone, ſeated on the banks of the Thames.
Scarce do we paſs this place, but we reach the grounds of an elegant villa, on the right, called Sion Hill, belonging to the Duke of Marlborough.
The road on the left, through a turnpike-gate, leads to Iſleworth, Twickenham, and Hampton Court, diſtance about four or five miles.
[7]Paſſing the eight mile ſtone we come to Small⯑borough Green turnpike; on the left of which, before we reach it, bounded by a brick-wall, ſtands, or ſtood, Kendal Houſe, once the reſidence of the Dutcheſs of Kendal, a favourite of George II. and afterwards converted into a public houſe.
From Smallborough Green we enter Hounſlow; at the further end of which village, the two great weſtern roads fork off; that on the right, to Bath; that on the left, to Exeter and Cornwall. There is a very good road to Bath through Andover, or the Exe⯑ter road, not more than one or two miles out of the way, which is fully compenſated by avoiding the hills, between Marlborough and Devizes, and the high charges at the different inns, on what is called the Bath road, which is the road moſt fre⯑quented.
Juſt beyond the 10 mile ſtone, on the left, are the new barracks for the ſoldiers. Hounſlow Heath is a dead flat, of great extent, and, having no va⯑riety, we have as little to ſay reſpecting it.
Twelve miles and a half from London, a rivulet, called the Crane, croſſes the road, and north of it lies the village of Cranford, where there is a park at a little diſtance, abounding with wood and water, the ſeat of the Earl of Berkeley.
The road beyond Cranford-bridge, is ſtill a level; on the right lies the Pariſh of Harlington, and near [8]it, Dawley; formerly in the poſſeſſion of the Lords Bolingbroke and Tankerville, now the property of Edmond Stephenſon, Eſq.
Arlington or Harlington, with Dawley, formerly the ſeat of the Bennets, or Tankerville family, gave them the title of Baron, in 1663, which title be⯑longs now to the Duke of Grafton, deſcended by the female line, from the only daughter of John Bennet, Baron Arlington.
Sipſon on the right.
Harmondſworth on the right.
We now paſs the pretty village of Longford, and the road becomes more pleaſant.
As we approach Colnbrooke, we catch occaſional glances of Windſor Caſtle, on the left; about four miles diſtant.
Juſt before we reach Colnbrooke, we paſs the road on the left, leading to Staines, a merket town, about ſix miles diſtant on the Exeter road.
Colnbrook ſtands on the river Coln, over which there is a ſmall bridge. Part of this town is in Middleſex, but the greater part in Buckingham⯑ſhire. It has a market, a charity-ſchool, and a chapel, founded by Edward III. and ſome good inns. This place is ſuppoſed to be the ancient Pontes. On the right of Colnbrook, is a ſmall villa, called Percy Lodge, the ſeat of the Earl of Tankerville, and was once the reſidence of Frances, Dutcheſs of Somerſet.
[9] Langley on the right, where is a handſome ſeat and park, called Langley, belonging to Sir Robert Bateſon Hervey, worth going to ſee, the adjoining land bearing the character of the ſcenery about the Alps. It was ſold to the preſent poſſeſſor by the Duke of Marlborough.
About two miles on the left, is the village of Datchet, in which was a bridge over the Thames, leading to Windſor Little Park. It has now fallen to decay, and is impaſſable; and, being a Govern⯑ment bridge, it is uncertain when it will be re⯑paired.
After paſſing Colnbrook, in our way to Slough, the country on the left is more liverly, and Windſor Caſtle is frequently in view; alſo the town and col⯑lege of Eton, in the valley below it.
Upton about a mile on the left.
Slough is a large village in the road, about a mile and a half from Windſor. It conſiſts of one ſtreet, and contains ſome good inns. Near this, on the left of the Windſor road, leading from this place, lives the celebrated Doctor Herſchell. The apparatus which gives motion to his grand tele⯑ſcope, is ſeen from the high road; his eſtabliſh⯑ment is at the expence of the King.
Windſor Caſtle has been a royal reſidence, with ſome interruptions, from the conqueſt to the preſent time. William I. was the firſt who built a palace here; Henry I. fortified it, and Edward III. en⯑larged [10]it. Eton College was founded by Henry VI. the chapel is a ſtately Gothic ſtructure, and may be ſeen from the road.
A little beyond Slough, on the right, near the road, is the temporary reſidence of the Earl of Cheſterfield. Hence a road leads to Stoke, a vil⯑lage formerly called Stoke-Pogies, from its being the inheritance of the Lords of Pogies, from whom it paſſed to the family of Haſtings. From this family it became the property of Lady Cobham, and was purchaſed from her by Mr. Penn, of Penn⯑ſylvania, and is now in the hands of his ſucceſſor. In Stoke church-yard is interred, the celebrated Poet, Gray.
Salt Hill has little more to be noticed than one or two good inns. To this place the Eton ſcholars parade once in two years, to diſtribute ſalt, and collect money of travellers, according to an ancient cuſtom.
On the right is the village of Farnham Royal, held by its preſent poſſeſſor on condition of pre⯑ſenting the King, on his coronation-day, with a right hand glove, and ſupporting his right arm whilſt he holds the ſceptre. When the anceſtors of the preſent Earl of Shrewſbury exchanged this place with Henry VIII. they reſerved this privilege.
Huntercomb on the left. On the right Burnham, a village noted for an Auguſtine monaſtery, founded in 1265 by Richard, King of the Romans; cloſe to [11]this, in view of the Bath road, is a houſe of Lady Ravenſworth.
A houſe on the left belonging to Mr. Ayres.
Hitcham on the right.
As we approach Maidenhead-bridge the country becomes more pictureſque, and we ſee, on the right, the woody hills of Taploe, belonging to the Earl of Inchiquin, where many genteel people reſide.
On the ſummit of the hill, between the village of Taploe and the Thames, is the ſeat of the Earl of Inchiquin, called Cliefden Houſe. It was built by Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, in Charles I'ſt reign, purchaſed by the firſt Earl of Orkney, and, by marriage, is now in poſſeſſion of the Earl of In⯑chiquin. Frederic Prince of Wales, father of the preſent King, reſided here in the ſummer.
Adjoining Cliefden is Hedſor Lodge, the ſeat of Lord Boſton, ſtanding on an eminence; below which, in the valley, is the ſeat of Sir George Yonge, a houſe lately built.
At Maidenhead-bridge, we enter Berkſhire, from Bucks. At the foot of the bridge, on each ſide, is a noted inn, and ſome gentlemens' houſes on the Berk⯑ſhire ſide, one lately built by Sir William Herne. The bridge is a handſome ſtone ſtructure, (about 15 years old,) built from a deſign of Sir R. Taylor. From hence the beautiful ſcenery of Cliefden, on the [12]right, and Windſor Caſtle and the foreſts on the left, preſent pictureſque landſcapes.
Maidenhead is a town of ſome conſequence, its borough was founded by Edward III. and incorpo⯑rated by James II. The town ſtands in the pariſh of Bray, to the left; and that of Cookham, to the right.
Adjoining Maidenhead, on the ſouth, is the ſeat of P. Pouney, Eſq. an old houſe, with a new park.
From Maidenhead, a hollow way leads to the ſummit of a hill; from whence to the north, the three villas of Cliefden, Taploe, and Hedſor Lodge, appear emboſomed in wood.
At a houſe on the road, called the Folly, the road to Henley and Oxford branches off; to Henley 12 miles, to Oxford 30.
At the 28 mile ſtone we enter the race ground, adjoining Maidenhead Thicket. On the right, near the edge of the common, is a houſe, the reſidence of the late Charles Ambler, Eſq. Solicitor General to the Queen. Towards the ſouth are two hand⯑ſome houſes, one belonging to Miſs Lowndes, and the ſmaller to a Mr. Lee.
Here a road branches to the weſt, leading to Hall Place, the ſeat of Sir William Eſte, Baronet, about a mile diſtant. It has a beautiful park, but ſmall. The eye ranging over the race-ground, to⯑wards the eaſt, may diſcover the ſeats of John Grant, Eſq. and Mr. Sayer.
[13]From a riſing ground, on the further ſide of the heath, we behold a fine wooded country, inter⯑ſperſed with farms, cottages, and here and there an elegant houſe, the road running along hills and dales for ſeveral miles. On the left, between the 29th and 30th mile ſtone, is the village of Shotteſ⯑brook, where are the remains of a monaſtery of Be⯑nedictines, now converted into a farm-houſe. In the church-yard here, lies the learned Henry Dod⯑well, who lived in this pariſh. At Lawrence Wal⯑tham, near this place is a field called Weycork, where ſtood a conſiderable Roman fort.
Near Shotteſbrook is a ſtately manſion, in a plea⯑ſant park, belonging to Arthur Vanſittart, Eſq.
Beyond this ſtone is the houſe of Mrs. Phillips, commanding extenſive views; and nearly adjoining, a houſe with wings, belonging to Mr. Ximenes. Oppoſite to this, near the road, on a ſloping lawn, is the ſeat of John Lee Parrot, Eſq. on the eaſt and ſouth of this, is a woody valley.
Hare Hatch is juſt beyond the 32 mile ſtone, a ſmall ſtraggling village, with ſome good houſes; particularly that of Mr. Young on the right, and Mr. Girdler towards the left. Here we leave the wood-land, and dip into an open cultivated country. About a mile hence, on a riſing country, on the left, ſtands the village of Ruſcombe; cloſe to which is an elegant houſe, the ſeat of Lord Chief [14] Baron Eyre; and a little beyond this we reach Twyford.
From Twyford there is a road a mile and a half to Wargrave, a pleaſant town, ſituated on the banks of the Thames, where the late Earl of Barrymore reſided, and had an elegant theatre for his own amuſement. Twyford was formerly a market town. Queen Emma gave it to the Biſhop of Wincheſter; it was annexed to this ſee, till Biſhop Poynet gave it to Edward VI. who granted it to Henry Neville. Queen Mary took it from him, and gave it to Bi⯑ſhop White, Poynet's ſucceſſor; but Queen Eliza⯑beth reſtored it to Neville, and with his poſterity it has continued.
Twyford is a ſmall town, about five miles eaſt of Reading, ſituated near the conflux of the Thames and the Loddon.
Beyond Twyford the road runs through a num⯑ber of rich meadows, watered by numerous ſtreams from the Loddon, which empties itſelf into the Thames, a little below the town, on the north. Further on, the road continues on a level for ſome diſtance; then aſcending, runs on an unequal ridge, through an encloſed, woody country, to the 37th mile ſtone: it then deſcends towards Reading, which we ſee before us in the weſt, and Caveſham Park on the right, beyond the Thames.
Sunning one mile on the right, and the houſe of Mr. Rich.
[15] On the left is the road to London, through the foreſt and Egham.
Caverſham Park two miles north of Reading, near the road from Thame to Henley, is the ſeat of Mr. Marſac. The houſe was built by the Earl of Cadogan, in the reign of George I. Lord Cadogan was created Baron Reading, in 1715; and after⯑wards Viſcount Caverſham, for ſignalizing himſelf under the Duke of Marlborough, in ſuppreſſing the Rebellion of 1715.
About two miles on his ſide Reading, a road, on the left, leads to White Knights, lately the ſeat of Sir Henry Inglefield, now Mr. Neville's. It is a ſtately building, in a pleaſant park. This place was one of the firſt examples of the Ferme Ornée.
On the left, a little beyond this, one mile from Reading, is Early Court, the reſidence of J. Bag⯑nal, Eſq..
A new road through Crambourne Chace, Windſor foreſt, 18 miles in length, has not long ſince been made, by permiſſion, through the pleaſant villages of Wingfield, Warfield, and Binfield, and from the number of elegant ſeats on this road, and the beau⯑tiful ſcenery about it, it is one of the moſt delight⯑ful roads in the kingdom.
Reading, 39 miles from London, is ſeated on an eaſy declivity, on the ſouth-ſhore of the Thames. The ſtreets are ſpacious, and well-paved, and con⯑tain ſome good houſes. The river Kennet runs [16]through the town in two ſeparate ſtreams, and falls into the Thames, a mile below it; barges come up to the town by the river. It is the county town, is governed by a Mayor, 12 Aldermen, and 12 Bur⯑geſſes, and ſends two members to Parliament. It has three pariſh churches, and is ſaid to have been a borough ſoon after the Conqueſt. It was anciently in poſſeſſion of the Danes, who ſurrendered it to the Saxons in 827.
A magnificent abbey was founded here by Hen⯑ry I. about 1124: Henry I. and his Queen were buried here. The abbey is deſtroyed, but the Gate⯑houſe is ſtill ſtanding, and a venerable ruin it is. Here are two or three ſtage coaches that paſs and repaſs daily between this town and London, and one that goes the foreſt road. There is alſo a coach that goes three times a week from this to Oxford, 40 miles, and returns the alternate days.
Reading ſtood a ſiege in the civil-war, and made a gallant defence in favour of the King. It had once a woollen manufactory, but its trade conſiſts now chiefly of malt, meal, corn, timber, and ſail⯑cloth. Manufactories of ſilk and lawn have lately been here eſtabliſhed, and meet with encourage⯑ment. Very little of the town is ſeen in travelling to Bath, the road paſſing only through one end of it.
In the Philoſophical Tranſactions we are told, that a ſtratum, or bed of oyſter-ſhells, of 5 or 6 acres in [17]extent, was diſcovered on Catſgrove Hill, near this town, a circumſtance worthy the attention of the natural hiſtorian.
A little beyond the 40 mile ſtone, on the left, is a neat houſe of Miſs Thompſon's.
From a riſing ground at the weſt end of Reading, the road runs along a ridge for two miles, yielding extenſive proſpects to the ſouth. Here, on a hill to the north, is a houſe emboſſomed in wood, the ſeat of Edward Bower, Eſq. and on the oppoſite ſide of the road, on the right, near the 42 mile ſtone, is the reſidence of J. Belgrave, Eſq. It is a handſome building, with wings, ſeated in a pleaſant park. The road on the north, is bounded with wood, and the river Kennet glides along the vale on the ſouth. From this ridge, paſſing Calcot Green, we deſcend and approach Theal, which is a neat village, ſkirted by the fertile meadows, and watered by the Kennet; beyond which a chain of woody hills terminates the proſpect.
About a mile on the right, as we leave Theal, is Englefield Houſe, the ſeat of Richard Benyon, Eſq. It originally gave name to a very ancient family, viz. Sir Henry Englefield. It was built by one of the Paulets, Marquis of Wincheſter; but re⯑duced and modernized by its late owner, Paulet Wright, Eſq. a lineal deſcendant of that noble family.
[18]In the meadows, north of the Kennet, is a ſquare entrenchment, ſaid to have been thrown up when Earl Ethelwolf routed the Danes here, in 871.
Ufton on the left, in which is Ufton Court, the ſeat of Mr. Perkins.
Road to Beenham on the right; Padworth on the left.
Beenham on the right.
Woolhampton, through which the road paſſes from Theal, over a flat, ſkirted by meadows on the ſouth, is a neat village, below the ſouth ſide of the ridge, forming the north ſide of the vale, leading to Newbury.
Aldermaſon on the left; near which is the ſeat of the repreſentative of the third Lord Stawell.
Three miles eaſt of this place, once ſtood Sil⯑cheſter, a Roman city of great note, called Vindo⯑mium, which covered 80 acres of ground. It was built by Conſtantine, in 337: there are now no veſ⯑tiges left but the walls and gates of the town, which may be conſidered as the moſt perfect remains of Roman greatneſs in this iſland. On the north-eaſt ſide are the traces of an amphitheatre, now con⯑verted into a ſtraw-yard. Many Roman ways cen⯑tered near this place, which ſtands in the county of Hants.
As we leave Woolhampton, the road riſes to the ſeat of Mrs. Crewe, ſtanding on a riſing ground, about half a mile on the right.
[19]Midgham on the right; near which is a houſe belonging to Mr. Poyntz. Before we reach the 51 mile ſtone, there is a road to the right and left; the left leads to Brampton, the right to Midgham.
Beyond Woolhampton, a large tract of beautiful meadows ſpreads the valley on the left; and a chain of woody hills bounds the proſpect on the right. As we get on, the road riſes, and the grounds are more incloſed as we approach Thatcham.
Coldthorp on the left.
Thatcham, a ſmall, neat town, of one ſtreet, Sir Arthur Crofts is Lord of the manor; whoſe ſeat is Dunſted Park, which we ſee on the right, before we enter the town; it is a very ſtately manſion.
On the left, on the ſouth ſide of the valley, the the ſeat of Mr. Mount ſtands conſpicuouſly.
From Thatcham the road runs along, up and down hill, till within a mile of Newbury; here it is more level and encloſed, and the country on both right and left, conſiſts of woody hills, interſperſed with farm-houſes; the river Kennet on the left.
Near Newbury on the right, is Shaw, the ſeat of Sir Joſeph Andrews. It is a very ancient manſion, much enveloped in wood. Here Sir George Liſle was poſted at the ſecond of battle of Newbury, in 1644. It was formerly the property of the Dole⯑mans.
[20]Newbury is a large populous town, 56 miles diſ⯑tant from London, ſituated in a plain, watered by the Kennet. It roſe out of the ruins of Speen, an old town, called Spine, or Speen; the remains of which now join Newbury. Hence the new town was called New Borough, or Newbury. Part of this place is called Spinham Land.
The ſtreets are ſpacious, and well paved; and the market-houſe is a handſome building: like Reading, this cannot be ſeen as we paſs it, for the road touches it only at one end. It is a vicarage, in the gift of the Crown; and governed by a Mayor, High Steward, and 8 Burgeſſes; but ſends no members to Parliament. There are ſtage coaches from this place to London, &c.
Newbury was once an ancient clothing town, but this buſineſs is now loſt, in ſome meaſure, by the Kennet having been made navigable here, and carrying on a trade more to the eaſtward. Here lived the famous Jack of Newbury, the greateſt clothier that ever exiſted, having employed 100 looms, in his own houſe, in the reign of Henry VIII. He marched to the battle of Flodden Field, at the head of 100 of his own men, cloathed and maintained by himſelf.
Newbury is remarkable for two battles in the Civil War, between the King and his Parliament, his Majeſty commanding both in perſon: the firſt was fought at the barrows, on the waſh, two miles [21]ſouth-eaſt of the town. In this battle, Sept. 18, 1643, fell, of the King's party, the Earls of Sunder⯑land and Carnarvon, and Lord Viſcount Falkland. The ſecond battle was fought the year following, Sunday morning, October 27, 1644, by day-break, at Shaw.
Lord Portcheſter has an elegant and noble ſeat at High Clere Park, in Hampſhire, five miles ſouth from Newbury. The houſe ſtands by the ſide of a very high hill, a diſtinguiſhed object, and conſpi⯑cuous landmark.
From Newbury we proceed to Speenham Land, where are one or two very good inns. Speen was the ancient Spinae of the Romans, mentioned by Antoninus. It is ſituated on the Kennet, a little more than a mile weſt of Newbury, on the north road.
Oppoſite Speen, in a valley on the right, is Don⯑nington Grove, the ſeat of Wm. Brummell, Eſq. It is a handſome building, partly Gothic, though lately built by J. Petit Andrews; by whom it was ſold to Mr. Brummel, and may be ſeen from the road. On the hill to the north of it, are the vene⯑rable, ruined towers of Donnington Caſtle, rearing its head above a wood of oaks. The Caſtle was a poſt of great conſequence in the Civil War, and ſtood a ſiege of three weeks againſt the rebel army. This Caſtle was alſo the reſidence of the poet Sir Geoffery Chaucer. Alice, daughter of Sir Thomas [22]Chaucer, ſon to the Poet, married William de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk. On his attainder it came to the Crown; and was afterwards, by grant of Henry VII. given to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. Under James I. it belonged to the Pack⯑ers, whoſe heireſs married Dr. Hartley, anceſtor to Mr. Hartley, its preſent poſſeſſor.
On the left is Benham Place, the ſeat of Lord Craven; the Kennet runs through the park in the vale.
The road on the left leads to Benham and Hamp⯑ſtead Park, another ſeat of Lord Craven.
The houſe, called the Half-way-houſe, between Newbury and Hungerford. Hoe Benham on the right. Hence the road winds along the bottom of a pleaſant valley, rich and fertile.
The road on the right leads to Elcot; that on the left to Walcot.
Juſt before we reach the 62 mile ſtone, on the left, ſtands Barton Court, the ſeat of Charles Dun⯑das, Eſq. by which we paſs to the village of Kint⯑bury, built on the ſide of a hill. At this ſtone the road on the right, leads to Chilton Lodge, the ſeat of Wm. Moreland, Eſq. about a mile and a half from the Bath road. It may be ſeen before we reach Hungerford. This eſtate lies partly in Berk⯑ſhire, and partly in Wilts; and the boundary of theſe counties divides the park.
Between theſe two mile ſtones, on the left, is Hungerford Park, the ſeat of Mr. Dolbiac.
[23]Sixty-four miles and half from London we ap⯑proach Hungerford, by a ſmall bridge over the river Kennet. It is a market town, conſiſting of two parallel ſtreets. In the church lies interred Robert de Hungerford, the firſt of that family in this county; whoſe nephew, Sir Thomas, was the firſt member of the Houſe of Commons, 51ſt of Edward III.
The Conſtable, who is Lord of the Manor, is an⯑nually choſen, and holds it of the Crown; they ſhew a horn here, holding about 2 quarts, which, by an inſcription on it, appears to have been given by John of Gaunt; who procured a grant for the royal fiſhery in the Kennet, remarkable for its trout, its eels, and its cray-fiſh.
A little beyond Hungerford we enter Wiltſhire. Before we reach the 66 mile ſtone, there is a road, on the right, to Chilton Foliat, and a little beyond the next ſtone,
A road on the right leads through a noble avenue, near two miles in length, to Littlecot Park, the ſeat of Mrs. Popham, about three miles from the Bath road; where a curious, large pavement was diſco⯑vered in 1730, two feet under ground, which ſeemed to have been the floor of a temple, being 41 feet by 33.
Littlecot Park is in the vicarage of Ramſbury, where they pride themſelves in fine ſtrong-beer. [24]It is now a ſmall village, but was once the ſee of the Biſhops, whoſe dioceſe was this county; but by the union of this ſee with Sherborne, by Herman, the eighth Biſhop, it was removed to Saliſbury.
Froxfield, a long, ſcattered village, on the road, about 2 miles from Hungerford. Here is a noble alms-houſe, endowed by Sarah, Dutcheſs of Somer⯑ſet, in 1694, for 40 poor widows. It is a qua⯑drangle, with a chapel in the centre; they have each about £ 16 a year, with cloaths and fire.
Ramſbury, and Ramſbury Manor, the ſeat of Lady Jones, is but a little diſtant from the road here, on the right; as is Great Bedwin on the left.
A road leads from near this ſtone, on the left, to Tottenham Park, and Severnake Foreſt, which joins. Between the mile-ſtones 71 and 72, the road enters this foreſt; and continues till we paſs the 73 mile ſtone; a delightful ride, we have then a mile to Margaret Street, and a mile more carries us through Marlborough, down a very ſteep chalk hill, from the top of which we have a fine view of the town.
Tottenham Park and the Foreſt, is the property and ſeat of the Earl of Ayleſbury. It belonged, formerly, to the Seymour family; but fell to Lord Bruce, by the marriage of Elizabeth Seymour, grand-daughter of William, Duke of Somerſet, with [25]the Earl of Ayleſbury, his grand-uncle. The foreſt with the park, is 12 miles round; and abundantly ſtocked with deer.
At his diſtance from the capital, ſtands the town of Marlborough, on the ſpot where antiquarians place the Cunetio of Antoninus. John, afterwards King of England, had here a caſtle, which, on his revolt from his brother Richard, was taken by ſtorm; and in this caſtle, a Parliament was held in the reign of Henry III.
Marlborough was a Roman ſtation; and the ſcite of the old Caſtrum was, by the Earl of Hertford, converted into a houſe, and now into an elegant inn, at the weſt end of the town: the Keep is uſed as a mount, for a ſummer houſe. The town conſiſts chiefly of one broad ſtreet. The ſhops, on both ſides, are ſupported in front by pillars, forming piazzas. It has two pariſh churches; and is governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, and 24 Burgeſſes; but has no trade. It originally gave title to James Ley, Lord High Treaſurer, under Charles I. but becoming ex⯑tinct in that family, King William, in 1689, made Lord John Churchill, Earl of Marlborough; and Queen Anne afterwards, created him Marquis of Blandford, and Duke of Marlborough.
Proceeding from Marlborough, and deſcending a hill, a ſhort diſtance from the town, a great num⯑ber of large, grey, ſcattered ſtones, are ſeen upon the down, on the right; theſe are vulgarly called [26] the grey wethers; they are a ſpecies of granite; and lie on the ſurface of the ground in great num⯑bers, and of all dimenſions. They are looſe, de⯑tached from any rock, and, as Dr. Stukeley thinks, have lain there ever ſince the creation; being ſolid parts thrown out to the ſurface of the fluid globe, when its rotation was firſt impreſſed.
Clatford Mill on the road ſide, and Fyfield on the left; and Lockeridge, where the Duke of Marl⯑borough has a houſe.
Weſt Overton on the left, on the river Kennet, which runs along the valley, on the road ſide. Be⯑fore we reach the 79th mile-ſtone, the road riſes, and enters the Downs.
Eaſt Kennet on the left.
Weſt Kennet the road paſſes through; a ſmall village: not far above, the river Kennet has its ſource, which, as we have noticed, is made navigable, and running to Hungerford and Newbury, becomes a large ſtream; and, paſſing by Reading, empties itſelf into the Thames, juſt below the town. This river is famous for cray-fiſh.
Proceeding on to the 81 mile-ſtone, we paſs a ſmall hill, or high tumulus, a barrow higher than general, called Silbury Hill, the largeſt of this kind in England. It is of a conical form, 170 feet high, 105 feet diameter at the top, and more than 500 feet at its baſe; having a trench round it, from [27]which this tumulus was thrown up. This hill has been dug into, and a human ſkeleton was found, bedded in chalk, which crumbled to pieces on touching; near it lay an old horſe-bit, deer's horns, and an iron knife, with a bone handle.
At Abury, about a mile from this hill, on the right of the road, is the remains of a magnificent Druidical temple. A village has been built within its circle, and out of its ſtones; the gardens and or⯑chards, &c. have rather disfigured and concealed the great original deſign.
The whole is ſurrounded with an immenſe cir⯑cular rampart, or terrace, 60 feet broad; and a ditch within of the ſame breadth; the diameter is 1400 feet; the circumference 4,800 feet; and the area incloſed 22 acres; through the centre of which runs the high road from Marlborough to Bath.
The firſt circle of ſtones within this area, is 13,000 feet diameter, and conſiſts of 100 ſtones from 15 to 17 feet ſquare; reduced, in 1722, to 40; of which, only 17 were ſtanding, and about 43 feet aſunder. There were other circles of ſtones, like thoſe of Stonehenge, at preſent there are only a few ſtones ſtanding.
Paſſing the 81 mile-ſtone we reach Beckhampton, a ſcattered village, where the two Bath roads meet; that on the left through Devizes; that on the right through Calne and Chippenham. We will purſue this laſt road, and return to the other afterwards.
[28]Sandy Lane Road, which is the way to Chippen⯑ham, was the old Bath road, and turned off at She⯑pherd's Shore, beyond the 84 mile ſtone; but a new road is now made through Calne to Chippen⯑ham, and this turns off at Beckhampton. There is an inn in the angle.
Thoſe who wiſh to ſee Bowood, the noble ſeat of the Marquis of Landſdown, and Spy Park, the ſeat of Sir Edward Bayntun, ſhould travel this road.
Paſſing the ridge, on which the road winds, we deſcend into a flat, cultivated country, leaving White Horſe Hill on the left.
White Horſe Hill takes its name from the figure of a horſe hollowed out in the chalk, on that ſide next the road. It is ſo large as to be ſeen at a great diſtance; and was cut in memory of the victory, obtained by Alfred, over the Danes, near Edding⯑ton, in the year 878. The figure is 54 feet from the toe to the cheſt, 100 feet from the toe to the point of the ear, and 100 feet from ear to tail. This battle was fought near the village of Edding⯑ton, where the Daniſh army was encamped.
Paſſing Cherhill, which lies cloſe on the right ſide of the road, and where we quit the Downs, at the 85 mile ſtone, a road leads to Compton Houſe, the ſeat of J. W. Henneage, Eſq. about a mile and a half north-eaſt of Calne.
From the village of Cherhill, we paſs over Cum⯑merford Common; and, at the 86 mile-ſtone, on [29]the left, ſtands Blacklands, the ſeat of Mr. Maun⯑drell; and, before we reach the 87 mile-ſtone, we croſs a ſtream at the village of Cummerford, on which there are ſeveral cloth and corn mills.
Another half mile brings us to Calne, a ſmall neat town, ſituated on a ſtony hill; with a hand⯑ſome church, built of freeſtone. This town is well ſupplied with water from Cherhill, and alſo from a ſtream at Calſton, on the left, where ſeveral ſtreams may be ſeen, beautifully guſhing from the ſide of the hill, and forming one ſtream, ſufficient to work a corn-mill below.
At the entrance of Calne, (by order of the Mar⯑quis of Lanſdown,) the old houſes have been pulled down, and ſmall neat houſes, for the poor, erected in their ſtead. It is a town of great antiquity, and has ſent members to parliament ſince the 26th of Edward I.
Here ſtood a palace of the Saxon Kings; and, in the controverſy between the Monks and the Prieſts, reſpecting the celibacy of the clergy, a grand coun⯑cil was held here, in 977; and, during the debate, the floor of the chamber gave way, and many were killed; Dunſtan, who preſided, and who favoured the Monks, eſcaped unhurt, which they conceived as a miracle that confirmed the Monkiſh Law.
Calne is a market town, and contains near 3000 inhabitants, and conſiderable manufactories of cloth, ſerges, &c.
[30]About a quarter of a mile from Calne, on the right, is ſeen the principal entrance to Bowood, from the London ſide. Bowood Park was once a royal one, and part of the jointure of Catherine Parr, widow of Henry VIII. James I. if ſaid to have hunted here; at which time all the country, on the left of the road, from Calne to Chippenham, was a continued foreſt; afterwards divided, by grant, between the anceſtors of Lord Audley and Mr. Carey, an ancient Roman Catholic family, in Devonſhire; which laſt has lately been purchaſed by Mr. Montague, of Lackham; about 4 miles diſtant.
Bowood was diſparked in the time of Oliver Cromwell, and granted, for ever, to Sir Orlando Bridgman, a favourite of Charles II. Sir Orlando dying inſolvent, the late Earl of Shelburne bought it of his creditors. To a houſe of 80 feet in front, the late Lord added offices of 300 feet in front, and fronted and encloſed theſe offices with a colonnade, taken from a part of Diocleſians palace, at Spalatro, in Dalmatia; the ſeats in the garden were chiefly taken from the Herculaneum. Within the park is a fine menagerie of wild beaſts.
On the left of the road is Pin Hills, formerly a gentleman's ſeat, now a farm, belonging to Bowood; and Bromhill, a plantation of Lord Lanſdown, on the right.
On the right, Studley Hill, the reſidence of Mr. Brown Angel, a gentleman farmer.
[31]Red Hill on the left; the white gate leads to where Studley Houſe ſtood, the reſidence of the family of the Hungerfords.
About a quarter of a mile further, we paſs Stud⯑ley, on the right, which was the ſeat of a Roman Colony, now occupied by ſome very poor cottages.
One mile from this place ſtands Spy Park, the ſeat of Sir Edward Bayntun; ſeparated from the encloſures of Bowood by the old Bath road, through Sandy Lane, 90 miles from London. Adjoining Spy Park is Rowden Houſe, the ſeat of E. Dicken⯑ſon, Eſq.
Continuing the Bath road, between Pin hills and Bromhill, we deſcend into a valley.
Paſſing the 90 mile ſtone, we leave the entrance to Bowood from Bath, on the left; and, deſcending Derry Hill, we proceed to Chippenham.
The Swan Inn.
On the left Pewſham Foreſt; and a little to the right of the road, ſtood Studley Abbey, formerly a monaſtery of Ciſtercian Monks, now a farm⯑houſe; the property of Sir Edward Bayntun, who removed the gate-way, which now forms the en⯑trance to Spy Park from Bath.
Chippenham, ſituated on the river Avon, is a large market town, 93 miles from London. It was the ſeat of ſeveral of the Saxon Kings, and be⯑queathed by Alfred to one of his daughters. The Danes fled twice here from Alfred, but gave it up [32]in 879. It is governed by a Bailiff, and 12 Bur⯑geſſes, chartered by Queen Mary. The town is divided by the Avon, over which is a low bridge, of 16 arches. Here are ſome few manufactories of woolen cloth.
Leaving Chippenham, we travel through a plea⯑ſant country; but, before we reach the 95 mile⯑ſtone, we aſcend a hill, and the road winds along its northern ſide; beyond this we riſe again, and reach Corſham.
The Ivy Houſe.
Road on the left to Eaſton.
Minety on the right, where a road croſſes the Bath road.
Corſham Park and Houſe, a ſtately ſtone man⯑ſion, the ſeat of Paul Methuen, Eſq.. Here are diſ⯑played that well-known, capital collection of pic⯑tures of the late Rt. Hon. Sir Paul Methuen, Knight of the Bath. This place, as well as the ad⯑joining town, which is on the further ſide of the park, and through which the old Bath road, through Sandy Lane, runs, is of great antiquity; it uſed to be the dower of the Queens of England.
Corſham is a ſmall near town, ſtanding on a flat. Ethelred, the Saxon King, had a palace here; and it was the ſeat of ſeveral of the Earls of Cornwall. Earl Edmund obtained a charter for a market; and Mr. Methuen, Lord of the Manor, has built a neat market-houſe, and tried to reſtore it.
[33]Brickers and Pickwick on the left; Hartham Park on the right; to which a road branches off, a little beyond the 97 mile-ſtone: the houſe is con⯑ſpicuouſly built, beyond a valley, about half a mile from the road, and is the ſeat of Lady James.
A little before we reach the 97 mile-ſtone, the turnpike divides; the right hand road runs through Upper Pickwick; the left hand, through Lower Pickwick, and joins again at the 99 mile ſtone.
A little beyond this ſtone, on the right, is Vac⯑caris, the reſidence of Mr. Dickinſon.
On the hill, on the right, Coldham Church and village, reſembling an Italian one; Drewets Mill, in the bottom; and Haſelbury Hill on the left.
From the 99th mile ſtone, the road winds along the ridge of a hill, and preſently dips towards Box. Deſcending this hill, we command proſpects over a rich valley, through which a rivulet ſtreams; the high ground, on the leſt, contains many quarries of freeſtone, ſuch as Bath is built with.
Box is a neat village, at the foot of the hill, ſix miles from Bath.
Beyond Box, a ſteep deſcent brings us lower into the valley; where we ſee, on an eminence, on the right, a handſome houſe, with wings, the reſidence of Mr. Wiltſhire, the proprietor of the Bath wag⯑gons; who, from being a driver, is now a man of affluence and reſpectability: his place is called Shockerwick.
[34] Bathmill, and Bathford Village, on the left: the ſides of the hills here, on both ſides, are richly de⯑corated with wood, and beautiful meadows. The road now ſunk into the bottom, we croſs the ſtream, which, a little farther, falls into the Avon, at Bath⯑ford. From this we travel along the bank, with the river on our left, till we reach
Bath Eaſton, which, with Walcot, may be con⯑ſidered as the ſuburbs of Bath. At Bath Eaſton, on the right, is a handſome houſe, the country re⯑ſidence of Sir John Miller; the entrance to it is embelliſhed with noble cedars, of extraordinary growth and beauty.
As we approach Bath, delightful proſpects meet the eye; to the weſt, the city; on the left, the High Ground, leſs ſecured with wood on the eaſt, a rich valley, with a lofty ridge, protecting it from the north.
Bath Hampton, on the left, beyond the river.
Bath Wick, beyond the river.
Before we proceed further, we will turn back, and deſcribe the road to Bath through Devizes, from Beckhampton, where it branched off on Marl⯑borough Downs to Calne; a little beyond the 81 mile ſtone.
From Beckhampton Inn, the road winds along the eaſtern verge of this Down, which divides it from the road to Calne.
[35]A little beyond the 84 mile-ſtone, at a place called Shepherd's Shard, or Shore, the Devizes road turns off on the left.
At Shepherd's Shore we croſs Wanſdike, which is another ſtupendous monument of antiquity, a foſs made in the time of the Romans, as one of the boundaries of the Belgic Kingdom. It paſſes 2 miles ſouth of Marlborough, on the northern verge of the great ridge of hills, dividing, north and ſouth, Wiltſhire, till it deſcends St. Anne's Hill, on the left of Shepherd's Shore, making ſeveral right angles along the edges of the other hills, then mounts to the ſummit of Roundway Hill; on the north ſide the Roman road from Marlborough, unites with the Wanſdike. Hence the Dike paſſes through Spy Park to the ſhire ſtones, at the diviſion between Glouceſterſhire, Wiltſhire, and Somerſet-ſhire.
The Down continues.
Biſhop Cannings on the left; Bagdon Hill on the right; and beyond it, Roundway Hill and Caſtle.
Roundway Hill is famous for a battle fought here, July 13, 1648, between the King's army, and that of the Parliament, under Sir Wm. Waller. Sir William ſummoned it to ſurrender on certain con⯑ditions, which the beſieged took advantage of, when the King's army was victorious, killed 600, and took 900 priſoners.
[36] The road now deſcends.
Devizes, an ancient town, 89 miles from Lon⯑don, and 19 from Bath, is ſuppoſed to have been poſſeſſed by the Romans; a ſtrong caſtle ſtood on high ground, ſouth-weſt of the town, but no re⯑mains of it are ſtanding. The Keep, or Dungeon, ſtood on a hill caſt up by hand, which now may be ſeen in a garden, behind the chief inn, in the market-place.
The town has two churches; was chartered by Charles I. ſends two members to Parliament, and is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, eleven Aldermen, and 36 Common Council: its manufactories are kerſeymere, druggets, and other woollen cloths.
About half a mile from the town, is New Park, the ſeat of James Sutton, Eſq. at the foot of Round⯑way Down, an elegant ſtone manſion, built by James Wyatt.
On deſcending a hill, not far from Devizes, we have extenſive views over a rich country, bounded by the Somerſet and Glouceſterſhire hills.
Before we reach Seend, the road divides; one branch goes through Seend, the other along the low ground, towards Melkſham; but unite again, a little beyond the 96 mile-ſtone.
Near the village of Seend, 3 miles ſouth of the Bath road, is Stoke Park, the ſeat of the late Peter Delme, Eſq. now of Joſhua Smith, Eſq. member for Devizes. Mr. Smith has pulled the old houſe down, [37]and built a new one, on a more elevated ſituation, and of Grecian architecture: its ſtructure, from eaſt to weſt, is 355 feet in front; it is juſt finiſhed, and unites convenience and elegance.
Red Stacks on the right.
Bowyer on the left.
Bowyer Houſe on the right. Bowyer Iſland on the left.
Bowyer Hill
Turnpike.
Melkſham, a ſmall neat town, on the banks of the Lower Avon; on which ſtand ſeveral cloth and corn-mills. A handſome houſe and pleaſure ground, the reſidence of Mr. Threſher, ſtands cloſe to the town, on the left.
Juſt beyond this ſtone, on the left, is Shaw Houſe, the ſeat of Mr. Arnold.
Shaw Hill; hence the road paſſes over Atford Common to Atford, a village, but a principal ſtage on this road. Here we paſs a turnpike. Before we reach the 98 mile ſtone, the road on the left leads to Corſham.
Wormwood.
Near this ſtone, a road croſſes the turnpike; that on the left goes to Bradford; that on the right to Corſham.
Cutts Corner.
Here we begin to aſcend Kingſdown Hill, from the top of which are extenſive proſpect. On the [38]eaſt, we look over great part of Wilts, with Round-way Hill; on the weſt, over Somerſetſhire; on the north-weſt, Glouceſterſhire.
Half a mile beyond the 103d ſtone, we enter So⯑merſetſhire, and deſcend to Bathford, where the two roads meet. Farley Houſe on the left, the ſeat of Lord Webb Seymour.
We have now reached Bath, 107 miles from London, through Chippenham; 108 thro' Devizes.
Bath is a very ancient city of Somerſetſhire; its hot ſprings are ſaid to have been diſcovered 863 years before Chriſt, by Bladud, from Brute. It is allowed to have been, formerly, a very extenſive city, and to have been firſt reduced by the Romans, about the year 81.
Bath is ſeated in a very fertile vale, on the banks of the river Avon, and ſurrounded by hills, ſo as to be a very cloſe, warm place, particularly in ſum⯑mer. From the bowels of theſe hills, is dug that beautiful freeſtone made uſe in building the city. Its increaſe, within the laſt 60 years, has been great and quick; from a ſmall contracted town, it has extended itſelf into open ſtreets and ſquares, with other elegant buildings in various forms; the whole making a city of conſiderable magnitude, ſo as to aſcend almoſt to the ſummit of the hills about it, and new works are ſtill going on.
[39]The heat of the waters in the different baths, are as follow, according to Farenheit's Thermometer: The water in the King's bath, raiſes the mercury in its coldeſt place to 100 degrees; in its hotteſt, to 103 degrees. The hot bath exceeds this by ſome degrees; the degrees of heat in the Croſs bath, is 94; and in the Queen's bath, 99.
Ladies and Gentlemen aſſemble every morning from 7 till 10, to drink the waters.
The amuſements are various, rational, and well-conducted. There are two ſets of aſſembly rooms, where the amuſements are alternately held, and a theatre. Here are two hoſpitals, and four churches, including the abbey church. The abbey was founded by Oſric, in 676; but the preſent building was begun in 1495, but not compleated, as it now is, till 1666. It has ſeven doors, and 52 windows, anſwering to the weeks in a year, and the days in a week: the tower is 162 feet high, and has a peel of 10 bells. Here are 12 other places of worſhip, and a public grammar ſchool, endowed by Ed⯑ward VI.
Bath is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, Alder⯑men, and 20 Common Council; ſends two members to Parliament, and is the ſee of a Biſhop, in con⯑junction with Wells. Here is a court of Record, that takes cognizance of debts above 40s, and a Court of Conſcience, that determines matters under that ſum.
[40]It has two markets weekly, Wedneſdays and Fridays; and well ſupplied, particularly with fiſh.
Bath being ſurrounded with very high hills, which are unpleaſant to climb, very few people like to keep carriages. It is a remarkably clean place, and, lying on ſuch a declivity, it is ſoon waſhed clean by a ſhower of rain, and is ſoon dry enough to walk upon, without ſoiling the ſhoes; and, for the accommodation of going to the rooms dreſſed, ſedan-chairs are always at hand, for 6d. or 1s.
The country round the city, is embelliſhed with gentlemens ſeats; the moſt diſtinguiſhed is Prior Park, the ſeat of the late Ralph Allen.
Lanſdown over-hangs the city, and is renowned for a battle in the Civil Wars, on July 5, 1643, when the King's forces beat thoſe of the Parliament. A monument is erected on it, in commendation of the above-mentioned victory, by George Lord Lanſdown, in 1720.
The river Avon has been made navigable from Bath to Briſtol, and makes the intercourſe between them great. There are two roads to Briſtol; the diſtance, 13 miles: one called the Upper Road; and the other, the Lower. The Upper runs from the weſt end of the city, along the northern ſide of the river, and through a part of Glouceſterſhire; the Lower, and the moſt frequented, winds along the ſouthern bank of the river, from the old bridge; [41]and a communication between theſe two roads, is formed by a handſome ſtone bridge, of one arch, over the ſame river, about two miles and a half be⯑low the town.
Paſſing then over the bridge, the Lower Road, we ſoon reach Twiverton, two miles from Bath; and a little beyond the 3d mile-ſtone, Newton, a ſmall town, ſcattered along the ſide of a hill; near which, on the ſouth or left, ſtands Newton Park, the ſeat of George Langton, Eſq.. On the other ſide of the river, on a high ridge, ſtands a hand⯑ſome houſe, the reſidence of ſome of the family of the late Sir Caeſar Hawkins, who lived occaſion⯑ally here.
The Vale of Bath, through which the Avon runs, is beautiful in all its parts, and worth the travellers' notice.
Proceeding on from Newton, we leave the village of Corſtan on the left, and paſs through Saltford; on the right of which, on the Avon ſide, are ſeveral copper and braſs mills. Hence the road riſes, and we paſs through a rich country towards Keynſham, eight miles and a half from Bath.
Before we reach Keynſham, we ſee a handſome houſe on the north; this belongs to Edward Lyne, Eſq.
Keynſham is a ſmall market town, ſtanding on two hills, on the ſouth bank of the Avon, with a ſmall bridge over the river Chew, which runs by [42]it. The counties of Gloceſter and Somerſet are joined by a larger bridge over the Avon, below the town.
Keynſham Church is of Gothic ſtructure, and the high grounds beyond the town, have a beautiful effect.
Paſſing Keynſham, the houſe on the right is Mr. Butcher's.
At Stanton Drew, a few miles from Keynſham, are the remains of a Druid Temple, known by the name of the Wedding, from a vulgar opinion, that a bride and her attendants were changed into theſe ſtones. This temple, ſays Mr. Wood, conſiſted of three circles of ſtones, and formed a model of the Pythagorean Syſtem of the planetary world.
From Keynſham we deſcend into an encloſed wood-land country, leaving Keynſham Park on the right; beyond which we riſe another hill, and from the top, about three miles from Briſtol, we have exten⯑ſive proſpects: here we paſs a colliery.
Between the nine and ten mile-ſtones, the houſe on the right is Mr. Weirs; that on the left Mr. Ire⯑land's.
From the above-mentioned hill, we deſcend to
Briſlington; and, on our approach to Briſtol, a great number of handſome houſes and villas, lie ſcattered on both ſides the road.
Beyond Briſlington we go down an avenue of ſtately trees, paſſing a fine ſloping valley of rich [43]verdure, on the left; and a more cultivated country on the right: and again paſſing many handſome villas, winding round a hill, we get a full view of Briſtol. Beyond this the road riſes to the city.
A little beyond the 12 mile-ſtone, on the left, is the high road to Wells.
Briſtol is 120 miles from London through Bath, but 6 miles nearer through Chippenham and Marſhfield: it ſtands part in Somerſetſhire, and part in Glouceſterſhire, the two counties being divided by the river Avon.
This city is a county within itſelf, made ſo by Edward III. and Henry VIII. made it a biſhop's ſee. It has 3 handſome ſquares, and 18 churches, beſides the cathedral, which ſtands in Glouceſter⯑ſhire. The church of St. Mary Redcliff, is worthy attention, being the moſt beautiful ſtructure of the kind in the kingdom: its roof is a ſolid arch of freeſtone.
Briſtol ſends two members to Parliament; and is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, 12 Aldermen, two Sheriffs, and 42 Common Council.
About a mile weſt of Briſtol, in Glouceſterſhire, is the village of Clifton, ſeated on the ſide of a high hill, extending to the river Avon, the reſi⯑dence of many perſons of fortune. It has a parade, a ſquare, and other handſome buildings, fitted up for the accommodation of thoſe who reſort here for pleaſure, or for health. There are two aſſembly-rooms, [44]for the amuſement of the company, on the plan of thoſe at Bath.
At the weſtern extremity of Clifton, near the lofty rock of St. Vincent's riſes the Briſtol hot⯑ſprings; the heat of which, by Fahrenheit's Ther⯑mometer, is 76 degrees.
THIS Deſcription of the Road from London to Bath, will ſerve to conduct the traveller from Bath to London, if he reads it from the end to the be⯑ginning, and remembers that thoſe places which in his way down to Bath were repreſented to be on the right of the road; in his way back, muſt be on the left, and vicé verſa.
THERE is a ſecond road to Bath from London, as I have obſerved, to which I whould give the pre⯑ference, for many reaſons. In the firſt place, it avoids the hills between Marlborough and Devizes, and, of courſe, ſaves time upon the journey: ſe⯑condly, being leſs frequented, is not ſo duſty in ſummer, or ſo much worn in winter: thirdly, a traveller is not ſo likely to be ſtopped by a run of poſt-chaiſes, or be obliged to go on with tired horſes: and, laſtly, inns are not ſo expenſive. This road is through Staines, Hart⯑ford-bridge, Baſingſtoke, Andover, Luggerſhal, [45]Everley, and Devizes. To Bath, this way, is one mile more, but the advantages more than com⯑penſate it; the country is equally beaut [...]f [...]l. If we travel it in autumn, we paſs throu [...]h Weyhill Fair, the greateſt in the kingdom; and if we would diſ⯑penſe with a mile or two more on our journey, and go through Ambreſbury, inſtead of Everley and Devizes, the road is good, and we paſs cloſe by that ſuperb piece of antiquity, the Druidical Tem⯑ple of Stonehenge, which every perſon of taſte and curioſity goes to ſee; and the road this way is not above two or three miles round.
I know the Bath road through Reading, has been admired for the good accommodations met with at the different inns, but all inns are now improved; and there are none that excel Demeſay's at Hart⯑ford-bridge, and ſome others on the way: indeed, the accommodations at Demeſay's are ſo excellent, that the Royal Family, ſenſible of it, make a point always of dining or ſupping there, in their journey to and from Weymouth.
If the traveller, (let him be of what caſt he will) wiſhes to be amuſed on his journey, or at Bath, Dr. Truſler ventures to recommend to his peruſal, the two following books; they will afford him a fund of entertainment, being full of laughable anecdote, and make him acquainted with the arts, fineſſe, and deceptions of the age, in all profeſſions [46]of life. They are a true and very pointed ſatire on men and manners, and moſt of the characters are now living: though written in the form of Novels, they are good library books, and will bear reading again and again.
MODERN TIMES, or THE ADVENTURES OF GABRIEL OUTCAST, a Novel, written in imitation of Gil Blas; 4th Edition, 3 vols. with 12 humourous copper-plates, beautifully engraved. Price 12s. ſewed. All the Reviews ſpeak highly of this work.
LIFE; or, THE ADVENTURES OF WILLIAM RAMBLE, a ſequel to Modern Times, and written by the ſame Author—Price 10s. 6d. ſewed, 3 vols. with three copper-plates, and two original ſongs, with the muſic, by Sterkel and Pleyel.
N. B. The plates of the above Novels were de⯑ſigned by Ibbetſon, in his true ſpirit of original humour.
- Zitationsvorschlag für dieses Objekt
- TextGrid Repository (2020). TEI. 5475 A description of the road from London to Bath and Bristol with every thing worth notice in the way By the Rev Dr Trusler. University of Oxford Text Archive. . https://hdl.handle.net/21.T11991/0000-001A-5BC9-C