COMMODORE BYRON's VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, In 1764, 1765, and 1766.

HIS preſent Majeſty having formed a deſign of proſecuting the diſcovery of countries in the South Seas, was pleaſed, in the year 1764, to give orders for the carrying this deſign into execution: in conſequence of which, the Dolphin ſhip of war and the Tamar frigate were fitted, manned, and victualled for this expedition.

Mr. Byron was commander in chief, and Captain Mouat had the honour of command⯑ing the frigate under him. They ſailed from the Downs on the 21ſt of June, 1764, but the Dolphin running a-ground, ſhe was put into Plymouth Dock and examined: ſhe had how⯑ever ſuſtained no injury, and on the 3d of July the Commodore hoiſted his broad pendant, and ſailed in proſecution of his voyage. On the 30th they anchored in the road of Fonchiale, at the iſland of Madeira; the Governor of which ſaluted the Captain with 11 guns, and the compliment was returned. They ſailed on the 19th, and on the 21ſt were in ſight of Palma, one of the Canary Iſlands. Their wa⯑ter having become foul and ſtinking, they pu⯑rified [2] it, by forcing a ſtream of air through it, by means of a [...]nd of ventilator conſtructed for that purpoſe. On the 27th and 28th they ſaw the Canary Iſlands, and anchored in the bay of Port Praya on the 30th.—Having taken in water, and purchaſed ſome freſh proviſions, they ſail [...]d with all poſſible expedition, for fear of the tornadoes, which are very common on this coaſt from Auguſt till November.

Moſt of the crew had purchaſed monkies, lean goats, and fowls, in exchange for their old jackets, ſhirts, &c. It had been remarked before, and was now again obſerved, that no fiſh would come near the ſhip, which was at⯑tributed to her being ſheathed with copper; this was a mort [...]fying circumſtance, as there were immenſe numbers of fiſh within ſight.

On the 13th of September they came to an anchor in the road of Rio de Janeiro, on the coaſt of Brazil, when the Commodore paid a viſit to the Governor, who received him in ſtate, being attended by ſome perſons of diſ⯑tinction, and having many officers, and a Cap⯑tain's guard under arms before the palace. Fifteen guns were fired in honour of the Eng⯑liſh flag; and the Governor afterwards re⯑turn [...] the Commodore's viſit on board the Dolphin. M [...]y of the people on board the Tamar [...], l [...]gings were provided for them on [...], where they ſoon recovered; but the [...] of the Dolphin kept their health, [3] through the plentiful uſe of freſh meat and greens.

While the ſhip lay in this harbour, the Por⯑tugueſe enticed away nine of the crew of the Tamar, and five from the Dolphin. The for⯑mer were recovered, by a party ſent after them in the night; but the Commodore could never learn where his men were ſecreted. This prac⯑tice of kidnapping the Engliſh tars is here car⯑ried on with impunity; and when all other methods fail, the poor fellows are generally made drunk, and then ſent up the country, till the ſhip to which they belong is ſailed. They weighed anchor on the 16th of October, and on the 22d the Commodore informed the crew that they were not bound, as they thought, directly to the Eaſt Indies, but on a voyage to make diſcoveries; and that, on their behaving well, the Lords of the Admiralty had ordered them double pay, and other emoluments. They were tranſported with this news, declared their willingneſs to ſerve their country, and promiſed obedience to the orders of the Commodore. On the 29th they encountered ſo violent a ſtorm, that they were obliged to throw four guns overboard: it continued very tempeſtu⯑ous all night, but dying away in the morning, they made ſail, and, in 35 degrees 50 minutes ſouth latitude, found the weather moſt intole⯑rably cold, though it was now the latter end of October, and November in that climate an⯑ſwers [4] to May in England. The ſailors now repented the having bartered their old cloaths for eatables; but they were ſoon re-furniſhed with the ſlops that were on board.

The Commodore, on the 2d of November, delivered their commiſſions to his officers, after they had taken the cuſtomary oath. They now beheld vaſt numbers of pintadoes, and other birds, in flocks about the ſhip. Obſerving the colour of the water to be changed, they ſtood in for land on the 11th of this month, and found ground at the depth of 45 fathom. The next day the men on the forecaſtle called out, at the ſame inſtant, ‘"Land right a-head."’ The Commodore looked forward, and ſaw what he thought an iſland, compoſed of two hills, and land joining to it, which ran far to the ſouth-eaſt; but in the end this proved to be only a fog-bank, which vaniſhed on a ſud⯑den. Theſe deceptions are not unfrequent: not long ſince the maſter of a veſſel made oath, that he had ſeen an iſland, and trees growing on it, between Newfoundland and the weſt coaſt of Ireland; in conſequence of which ſome ſhips were ſent in ſearch of it, but it could ne⯑ver be found.

In the afternoon of the 13th the wind ſhift⯑ed, the ſky grew black to windward, and a ſtrange noiſe was heard, reſembling the roar⯑ing of the ſea on a ſhallow coaſt. Hundreds of birds were obſerved flying from the ſtorm, [5] and ſhrieking through dreadful apprehenſion. At length it reached the ſhip before ſhe was prepared for it, and laid her on her ſide. The firſt Lieutenant was beat down by the main ſheet, by which ſome of his teeth were knock⯑ed out, and he was otherwiſe terribly bruiſed. The main-ſail of the Tamar was ſplit; but as ſhe was to leeward of the Dolphin, ſhe had more time to prepare for the threatened ſtorm. The wind continued violent all night, but abated in the morning, when the ſea was obſerved to be co⯑vered with a ſmall red fiſh, like cray-fiſh, great numbers of which were catched by the ſhip's crew.

On the 16th they ſteered for Cape Blanco, ſhaping their courſe agreeable to the chart of it laid down in Anſon's Voyage. On the 17th they ſaw the Cape, and for two days ſtruggled hard to reach Port Deſire; but the deſcription given of it in Narborough's Voyage is ſo perplex⯑ed, that they were much at a loſs. They ſtood into a bay ſouth of the Cape, but could find no port. On the 20th they ſaw Penguin Iſland, and as Port Deſire was ſaid to be a few leagues north-weſt of it, a boat was ſent out, which found it. In theſe ſeas there were thouſands of ſeals and penguins near the ſhip. On the 21ſt they entered the harbour of Port Deſire, and the Commodore in his boat, attended by two other boats, went to ſound it. Mr. Byron land⯑ed, and found the country all one continued [6] down, having neither ſhrubs or trees. They had a ſight of four beaſts, near 13 hands high, and in ſhape like a deer, which they took to be guanicoes. The Commodore having returned to his boat, went higher up the harbour, to an iſland abounding with ſeals, more than 50 of which they killed, ſome of them exceeding the ſize of an ordinary bullock. They like⯑wiſe killed a variety of birds, one with a head like an eagle, with a large comb on it, and a white ruff, like a lady's tippet, round the neck; the feathers on the back were black, and of a moſt exquiſite poliſh; the legs were large and ſtrong, with talons ſomewhat like the eagle; the wings being extended, meaſured no leſs than 12 feet from their extremities.

On the 21ſt the Tamar ſailed into the har⯑bour with the riſing of the tide; but the Dol⯑phin waiting for a wind, ran on ſhore, where ſhe remained all night, and the next day, in very tempeſtuous weather. On the 23d they ſaw the track of a tyger, and ſeveral other beaſts, and found a neſt of oſtriches eggs, which proved to be good eating. On the 24th the ſhips were both properly moored in the harbour, where the water riſes no leſs than 27 feet at ſpring tides.

The Commodore went on ſhore this day, and ſhot a hare weighing 26 pounds, and ſaw ſeve⯑ral others as large as fawns. On the 25th he landed again, and found the barrel of an old [7] muſquet, with the King's broad arrow on it, and an old oar of a ſingular form. The muſ⯑quet-barrel was ſo decayed, that it would crum⯑ble to duſt with the touch. Theſe things, it is probable, were left by the crew of the Wa⯑ger, or, poſſibly, by Sir John Narborough.

They here ſaw the remains of fires, but met with no inhabitants. The only vegetable they found was wild peas. They killed ſeveral wild ducks, and ſhot a ball through the body of a hare, which ran two miles before he drop⯑ped: the fleſh of this animal is delicious, and as white as ſnow. Two old guanicoes and a fawn were killed by another party; and ſome of the former were ſeen of 300 weight.

The ſkull and bones of a man having been found, were brought on board; as was like⯑wiſe a young guanicoe, which was very beauti⯑ful, and grew quite tame; but died in a ſhort time. Happily, on the 2 [...]th, two ſprings of tolerable water were found; and on the next day a tun of it was brought on board. The Commodore went again on ſhore, where ſuch an immenſe number of birds took flight, as ac⯑tually darkened the ſky, and it was impoſſible to walk without treading on their eggs. Theſe eggs the men are, though there were young birds in the greater part of them.

On the 30th ſome men being ſent on ſhore for water, two of them, who firſt came to it, ſaw [8] a tyger lying on the ground, who taking no kind of notice of them, they threw ſtones at him: ſtill, however, they could not provoke his rage; he waited till the reſt came up, and then walked leiſurely off. The country near this bay abounds with geeſe, ducks, widgeon, and ſea-pies, beſides ſeveral birds, the names of which are unknown.

On the 5th of December the ſhips got under ſail, and, during that and the following day, had pleaſant weather and a fine gale. They now ſteered for Pepys' Iſle, which is deſcribed as lying in 47 degrees ſouth latitude. The weather was now very clear, and the ſhips, by ſpreading from each other, could, between them, command a proſpect of 20 leagues. They thus continued their ſearch for this ſuppoſed iſland till the 11th of the month, when the Commodore, convinced that there was no ſuch place, reſolved to ſtand in for the main, to take in wood and water, which began to be much wanted.

Large whales now ſwam frequently about the ſhip, and birds flew round them in great num⯑bers. On the 15th the wind blew a perfect hurricane, before which it would have been ſafeſt to have ran; but the fear of being driven too far from land, while they were in want of water, determined them to endeavour to wea⯑ther it, which they did till it abated, which was at eight o'clock the next morning. On

[9] the 18th they ſaw land, which, like that near Port Deſire, was of the downy kind without trees. They now obſerved porpoiſes, which were milk white, with black ſpots, purſuing the fiſh in the ſea, of which there were great numbers.

On the 20th they ran cloſe in ſhore to Cape Virgin Mary; and having obſerved a ſmoke on ſhore, and a number of guanicoes feeding in the vallies, they came to an anchor. The next day they again ſailed, and at length anchored about two miles from the ſhore, near the place where they had ſeen ſmoke the preceding day. The Commodore obſerved a number of men on horſe-back, riding to and fro, oppoſite the ſhip, and waving ſomething white, which he took to be an invitation to land; and as he was anxious to know what people theſe were, he went in one boat with a party of men well arm⯑ed; the firſt Lieutenant with a ſeparate party following in another. When they came near the ſhore, they ſaw a great number of people on horſeback, and ſome on foot, the whole amounting, as they judged, to five hundred; who were drawn up on a ſtony point of land that ran far into the ſea. Though the Com⯑modore did not obſerve that they had any wea⯑pons, he made ſigns for them to retreat a little, which they readily did, and kept ſhouting very loud while the crew were landing; which was no ſooner done, than they were muſtered on the beach, with their officers at their head.

[10]Mr. Byron now advanced alone, but as he approached, the Indians retreated; he there⯑fore made ſigns, that one of them ſhould come forward, which was complied with. The per⯑ſon who advanced appeared to be a chief, and was very near ſeven feet in heighth: round one of his eyes was a circle of black paint, and a white circle round the other; the reſt of his face was painted in ſtreaks of various colours. He had the ſkin of a beaſt, with the hair in⯑wards, thrown over his ſhoulders. The Com⯑modore and the Indian having complimented each other, in language equally unintelligible to either, they walked together towards the main body of the Indians, few of whom were ſhorter than the height abovementioned, and the women were large in proportion. Mr. By⯑ron made ſigns for them to ſit on the ground, which they did, chanting in a moſt ſerious and melancholy tone. The eyes of any one face were never painted with the ſame colours; ſome being white and red, ſome black and red, and ſome black and white: their teeth were white and even; they were all dreſſed much alike; but that ſome of them wore a ſort of boots, having a ſpur of peaked wood faſtened to each heel.

The Commodore having prevailed on ſome, who were ſtill galloping about, to alight and ſit down with the reſt, he diſtributed ſome white and yellow beads among them, which they ve⯑ry

[11] gladly accepted. He then took a piece of ribband, and giving the end of it into the hands of the firſt Indian, he continued it to the next, and ſo on as they ſat, to the end of the ribband. He then cut it with a pair of ſciſſars between every two of them; and tied each man's ſhare round his head, which they did not attempt to remove. It was remarked, that though the preſents were inſufficient to ſupply them all, no one preſſed forward from the ſtation aſſigned him, nor ſeemed to envy the ſuperior good for⯑tune of his neighbour.

Among theſe gigantic people, one woman, who was of the largeſt ſize, and moſt diſagree⯑bly painted, had her hair adorned with beads of blue graſs, hanging, in two diviſions, down before her ſhoulders; and ſhe had bracelets of pale gold or braſs, on her arms; but there was no learning how ſhe obtained this finery. One of the men ſhewed Mr. Byron the bowl of a tobacco pipe, made of red earth, and made ſigns that he wanted ſome tobacco, none of which they had among them. On this the Commodore beckoned to the ſeamen, who ſtill remained drawn up on the beach, three or four of whom inſtantly running forward, the Indians were alarmed, and jumping up in an inſtant, were preparing to retire, as it was ſuppoſed, to fetch their arms. Mr. Byron therefore ran and ſtopped the ſailors, directing one of them only to come forward, when he had got all the to⯑bacco [12] they could muſter among them. This reſtored peace, and all the Indians reſumed their places, except an old man, who ſung a long ſong to Mr. Byron; at nearly the concluſion of which Mr. Cumming, the firſt Lieutenant, brought the tobacco. This gentleman, tho' ſix feet two inches high, was himſelf aſtoniſhed at the diminutive figure he cut among the ſtrangers, who were broad and muſcular in pro⯑portion to their height. The Commodore hav⯑ing diſtributed the tobacco, they made ſigns for him to ride to their huts; but he intimated, that he muſt return to the ſhip; on which they ſat down again, apparently much concerned. Their horſes, though not large, were active, and much under command: their ſaddles were like an Engliſh pad, and the bridle was formed of a thong of leather, with the bit made of wood; they had no ſtirrups, and both men and women rode aſtride. When the Commodore left them they kept their ſeats, not once offer⯑ing to follow him.

On the 21ſt of December they began ſailing up the Streight of Magellan, with a view to take in a proper ſtock of wood and water, as the finding Falkland's Iſlands was yet a matter of uncertainty. They remarked a ſingle In⯑dian on this ſhore, who waved his hand to them till he loſt ſight of the ſhip; they likewiſe ſaw ſeveral guanicoes on the hills. On the evening of the 22d ſix Indians came on the beach, hal⯑looing, [13] and making ſigns that they wiſhed an acquaintance with the crew; but, as the ſeamen were fatigued, the Commodore would not ſend off a boat to them. On the 25th they ſaw a point of land near St. George's Iſland, to which Mr. Byron gave the name of PORPOIS POINT.

Having anchored at ten at night, the Com⯑modore went the next morning in queſt of wood and water, plenty of which they found on the point abovementioned. A fine level country lies over the point, the ſoil of which appeared to be very luxuriant, producing in⯑numerable flowers of ſeveral kinds, the ſmell of which was extremely fragrant; there was alſo a plenty of good graſs, among which grew peas that were then in bloſſom. They ſaw hun⯑dreds of painted geeſe, (ſo called from their beauty) which were feeding among this variety of ſweets: they likewiſe found an abundance of plants, and wild celery in great quantities. Many Indian wigwams were ſeen, ſituated in the woods, near ſtreams of water; theſe had been lately occupied, as the fires appeared but juſt burnt out. In a walk of twelve miles they ſaw no place proper for a boat to land, the ſea breaking high on the ſhore. Mr. Byron re⯑turned in the evening, and found that ſome of the men had been ſhooting geeſe, teal, and ſnipes, while others had employed themſelves, with equal ſucceſs, in fiſhing: theſe employ⯑ments indeed became neceſſary, as the men [14] could have eaten thrice their allowance, owing to the keen air of the country.

On the 26th they ſteered for Port Famine, and came to an anchor, cloſe to the ſhore, the next day at noon. In this place they found drift wood enough to have ſupplied a thouſand veſſels. The Commodore went four miles up Sedger river, but could proceed no farther, the trees which had fallen acroſs the ſtream im⯑peding the boat's way; one of the ſtumps of them having made a hole in her bottom, ſhe was immediately filled with water: but they made ſhift to get her on ſhore, and ſtopped the leak, ſo as to return in her to the mouth of the river. The banks of this ſtream are furniſhed with the nobleſt trees, ſufficient in number to ſupply maſts for the whole navy of Great Bri⯑tain. Some of theſe were ſo large, that four men joined hand in hand could not encloſe them; and, among the reſt, the pepper tree was found. Theſe woods abound in parrots, and other beautiful birds. The quantity of fiſh that was daily taken was equal to the ſup⯑ply of both the crews; and the Commodore ſhot as many geeſe and ducks as furniſhed ſe⯑veral tables beſides his own.

While the ſhips lay at anchor here, Mr. Byron and a party went on ſhore; but being catched in a violent rain, they ſtopped where ſome Indians had left a fire, the wood of which was yet warm; and kindling a fire to dry their [15] cloaths, another fire was inſtantly made on Terra del Fuego, the oppoſite ſhore, which they imagined to be a ſignal, on a ſuppoſition they were Indians. The hills were craggy, of an amazing height, and wholly covered with ſnow; but the plains were adorned with flow⯑ers, equal in fragrance and beauty to thoſe in the gardens of England.

The Commodore having ordered a tent to be erected on the borders of a wood, and adjoin⯑ing to a rivulet, three of the ſailors were there ſtationed to waſh linen, and they laid in the tent. One evening, ſoon after they had retired to reſt, they were awakened by the deep and hollow roarings of ſome wild beaſts, which came nearer them every moment. Terrified with apprehenſion, they made and kept up a blazing fire, round which the beaſts walked at a ſmall diſtance till the dawn of the morning, when they retired.

Near where the ſhips rode at anchor was a hill cleared of wood, which they imagined to have been a Spaniſh ſettlement, mention of which is made in Captain Wallis's Voyage, as will be ſeen in the courſe of this work. Both ſhips having taken in ſufficient wood and water by the 4th of January, 1765, they ſailed at four o'clock in the morning, in queſt of Falk⯑land's Iſlands; but the wind dying away, they were obliged to come to an anchor the day fol⯑lowing.

[16]On Sunday the 6th they again made ſail, and the Commodore, who had been twenty-four hours on deck, retired to ſleep; but he was ſoon awakened by the veſſel beating on a bank. Happily, at this inſtant, it was a perfect calm, ſo that the riſing of the tide ſoon carried the ſhip ſafe off again. On the 8th the officer of the watch diſcovered that the head of the main⯑maſt was ſprung, which they ſuppoſed to have happened in a violent gale ſome time before; but effectual methods were immediately taken to repair the damage.

On the 12th they ſaw land, which was taken for De Wert's Iſlands, and at the ſame time other land to the ſouth, which was judged to be what is called New Iſlands in the charts. This land conſiſts chiefly of mountainous and barren rocks, on which were great numbers of birds. Seals abound here, and large whales were ſeen ſpouting round the ſhip. On the 14th they ſaw a flat iſland, covered with tufts of graſs as large as buſhes; and on the follow⯑ing day the Commodore ſent a boat from each ſhip, to examine an opening which had the ap⯑pearance of an harbour; which being diſcovered, they ſtood in for it in the afternoon, and found it excellent beyond their moſt ſanguine hopes. Soon after this they entered another harbour, to which Mr. Byron gave the name of Port Egmont, from the title of the nobleman at that time Firſt Lord of the Admiralty. This har⯑bour

[17] is repreſented to be the fineſt in the world, and capacious enough to contain the whole navy of England, in full ſecurity: there is plenty of freſh water in every part of it; and geeſe, ducks, ſnipes, and other edible birds, abound in ſuch numbers, that the ſailors were tired with eating them. The geeſe were knocked down with ſtones, ſo that it was no unuſual thing for a boat to bring off ſixty or ſeventy of thoſe birds, without the neceſſity of ſhooting a ſingle one. Seals and penguins abound here; ſea lions of a prodigious ſize are found on the coaſt; and there is plenty of muſcles, cockles, clams, and limpets. The woods produce ſorrel and wild celery in great abundance.

The Commodore was once unexpectedly at⯑tacked by a ſea lion, and extricated himſelf from the impending danger with great diffi⯑culty: they had many battles with this animal, the killing of one of which was frequently an hour's work for ſix men; one of them almoſt tore to pieces the Commodore's maſtiff dog, by a ſingle bite. The Maſter having been ſent to ſound the coaſt, four very fierce animals ran after the boat's crew till they were up to their bellies in water; ſo that they were obliged to put from the ſhore, as they had no fire-arms in the boat. The next day, on the oppoſite ſhore, Mr. Byron and his company ſaw a ſea lion of an enormous ſize; and the crew, being well armed, inſtantly engaged him. While they were thus [18] employed, one of the other animals poſted to⯑wards them; but a ball being lodged in his body, he was inſtantly diſpatched. Five of theſe beaſts were killed this day, in their at⯑tempts to ſeize the men, whom they always purſued the moment they got ſight of them. They were of a mixed ſhape, between a wolf and a fox; moſt like the latter, but of the ſize of the former. They burrow in the ground like a fox, feed on ſeals and penguins, and are very numerous on the coaſt. The ſailors, in order to be rid of ſuch diſagreeable compani⯑ons, ſet fire to the graſs, which burnt ſo ra⯑pidly, that the country was all in a blaze for ſome days, and theſe animals were ſeen running to ſeek ſhelter from its fury.

While they lay in this harbour the crew breakfaſted on portable ſoup and wild celery, thickened with oatmeal, which made a very nu⯑tritive meſs. The ſoil of the iſland was a light clay under a black mould. The Commodore thinks this the ſame place which, in Cowley's Voyage, is called Pepys' Iſland; but he took poſſeſſion of the harbour, and all the adjacent iſlands, by the name of FALKLAND'S ISLANDS, for George the Third, King of Great Britain. It is to the honour of the Surgeon of the Ta⯑mar frigate, that during their ſtay there, he made a fence of turf near the watering place, round a tract of land, which he planted with [19] vegetables, for the uſe of thoſe who may here⯑after touch at this port.

On Sunday, January the 27th, they left Port Egmont, and the ſame day ſaw a remarkable head-land, which was named CAPE TAMAR; ſoon after which they paſſed a rock, which Mr. Byron called the EDISTONE, and then ſailed be⯑tween that and a head-land, to which he gave the name of CAPE DOLPHIN. The diſtance from Cape Tamar to Cape Dolphin is about eight leagues, and, from its appearance, was called CARLISLE SOUND, though it is ſince known to be the northern entrance of the ſtreight between the two principal iſlands. The land ſeen during the courſe of this day was all downs, having neither trees nor buſhes, but large tufts of graſs in va⯑rious places.

Having anchored during the night, they ſailed again the next day, when the Commodore gave the name of BERKLEY'S SOUND to a deep ſound between the iſlands. About four miles to the ſouthward of the ſouth point of this ſound the ſea breaks very high, on ſome rocks that appear above water. The coaſt now wore a dangerous aſpect, rocks and breakers being at a conſider⯑able diſtance from the ſhore, and in all direc⯑tions; and the country appeared barren and de⯑ſolate. The ſea now riſing high, the Commo⯑dore ſailed to the northward, to prevent being driven on a lee-ſhore. He imagines the whole [20] circumference of Falkland's Iſlands to be little leſs than 700 miles.

At eight in the evening they ſtood to the weſtward, and held their courſe till the 6th of February, when they ſaw, and ſtood in for, Port Deſire, at the mouth of which they came to an anchor, and had the pleaſure of ſeeing the Flo⯑rida, a ſtore-ſhip, which they had expected from England. On Thurſday the Maſter of the ſtore⯑ſhip went on board the Dolphin, and informed the Commodore of the extreme bad condition of his ſhip; on which it was reſolved to attempt the unloading her in the harbour, though a place very ill calculated for the purpoſe. They therefore entered the harbour; but the night proving very tempeſtuous, the Tamar and the Florida both made ſignals of diſtreſs, having been driven from their moorings up the har⯑bour. On this and the following night they were both ſaved from driving on ſhore; and as the ſtore-ſhip was in conſtant danger of being loſt, Mr. Byron ſent hands on board to aſſiſt in repairing her, and reſolved to take her with him into the Streight of Magellan before he unload⯑ed her. In this harbour the rudder of the Dol⯑phin was likewiſe repaired, there being no tim⯑ber proper for making her a new one.

On the 13th the Florida put to ſea, with or⯑ders to ſteer directly for Port Famine; and on the next day ſhe was followed by the Dolphin and Tamar. The three following days they ſaw

[21] a ſtrange veſſel following them, which ſhaped her courſe, and ſailed faſter or ſlower, exactly as they did, a circumſtance that cauſed much ſpeculation. The Commodore being obliged to wait for the Florida, which was far a-ſtern, ima⯑gined the ſtranger would ſpeak with him, and therefore made the neceſſary diſpoſitions to give her a proper reception. When he came to an anchor the ſtranger did the ſame, four miles to windward of him; but in the morning ſhe was ſeen three leagues to the leeward. She now got under way, and approached the Dolphin; on which the Commodore got eight guns, which were all that could be come at, to one ſide of the ſhip, as he lay at anchor. Neither party hoiſted any colours; but about this time the ſtore-ſhip running a-ground, the ſtrange veſſel hoiſted French colours, and ſent two boats, with an anchor, to aſſiſt her. The Commodore now ſent a boat from each of his ſhips to the aſſiſt⯑ance of the Florida, with poſitive orders not to let the French boats board her; but to acknow⯑ledge, in a proper manner, the offer of aſſiſt⯑ance. Theſe orders were obeyed, and the ſtore⯑ſhip was got off.

They weighed anchor at ſix in the evening, and anchored again at eleven; at which time the French veſſel did the ſame, but in a ſituation that ſhewed her ignorance of the channel they were in.

[22]On the 19th they again ſailed; and as the French veſſel ſteered after them, Mr. Byron thought they came from Falkland's Iſlands, where there was then a French ſettlement, to take in wood, or that they were on a ſurvey of the Streight of Magellan, in which they were now ſailing. On the 20th they reached Port Famine, when the Dolphin and Tamar having taken as much proviſion out of the ſtore-ſhip as they could find room for, the Maſter received orders to ſail for England as ſoon as poſſible; it being determined to navigate the other ſhips through the Streight.

On the 25th they paſſed the French ſhip, which was in a ſmall cove, and near her a large quantity of wood, which the Commodore had no doubt was intended for their new ſettlement. On Mr. Byron's return to England this appeared to be the fact; and that the ſhip was commanded by Monſ. Bougainville, and called the Eagle.

The reſt of the account of their paſſage thro' the Streight of Magellan, conſiſts chiefly of the names of places, and deſcriptions of ſoundings, bearings and diſtances, which could not fail of proving unintelligible, if not diſguſting, to the generality of readers. Whatever is really worth the notice of thoſe who read either for inſtruc⯑tion or entertainment, ſhall be faithfully recited in the following pages.

The mountains on both ſides of the Streight are covered with ſnow from the top to the bottom; [23] are ſteep and craggy, and of a moſt deſolate ap⯑pearance. On the 1ſt of March two or three canoes of Indians followed the ſhip, one of which went on board. This canoe was of bark, and wretchedly made: it contained ſome men, wo⯑men, and a boy, who had bows and arrows, which they exchanged for beads and other trin⯑kets: the cord of the bow was made of the gut of ſome beaſt dried, and the arrows were formed of a reed, pointed with a green ſtone. Theſe people had no other garment than a ſeal-ſkin thrown over their ſhoulders, and they made, on the whole, a moſt wretched appearance. When the ſhip came to an anchor, ſeveral of the In⯑dians went on board, and gladly accepted ſome ribbands, beads, and other trifling matters, with which the Commodore preſented them. Theſe people ſubſiſt chiefly on muſcles and berries, ſome of the latter of which they gave Mr. By⯑ron, when he returned their viſit on ſhore.

Having narrowly eſcaped the dreadful effects of a ſtorm on the 3d of March, boats were re⯑peatedly ſent out till the 6th, in ſearch of a pro⯑per place to anchor in; and at length the Dol⯑phin was moored in a little bay oppoſite Cape Quod; and the Tamar, which could not work up ſo far, about ſix miles to the eaſtward of it. This part of the Streight being only four miles over, its appearance is dreary and deſolate be⯑yond imagination, owing to the prodigious mountains on each ſide of it, which riſe above [24] the clouds, and are covered with perpetual ſnow. On the 8th they met with a large number of ſhell-fiſh; and on this day the Commodore went up a deep lagoon under a rock, at the head of which was a fine fall of water, and on the eaſt ſide of it ſeveral ſmall coves, calculated for the ſecure reception of ſhips of the greateſt burden.

On the 12th an officer was ſent in a boat, in ſearch of an harbour; and in two days he re⯑turned with an account, that there were five bays between the ſhip and Cape Upright, in any one of which they might anchor ſecurely. While this officer was abſent, he met with ſome Indians, who made him a preſent of a dog, and one of the women having a ſucking child, offered to give it him! At this time winter commenced with all its ſeverity, and the hills were ſoon covered with ſnow. The cold be⯑came ſo intenſe that the ſeamen, whoſe clothes were continually wet, ſuffered ſeverely: to for⯑tify them againſt this inclemency of weather, the Commodore gave a warm jacket of woollen ſtuff, called fearnought, to the crews of both ſhips, officers included.

On the 16th perceiving they loſt ground on every tack, they came to an anchor; but finding the ground to be rocky, they weighed again, and every man on board was on deck the reſt of the day and the whole night, during which time the rain poured down on them in unremitting tor⯑rents. Notwithſtanding this inceſſant labour,

[25] they found, in the morning, that they had been only loſing way, owing to the rapidity of the current. They were now glad to anchor in the very bay they had left two days before.

As it continued to rain and blow violently for two days longer, the Commodore ſent a boat to ſound the bay on the north ſhore; but no an⯑chorage could be found. On the 20th the veſ⯑ſel was driven from her moorings, but by heav⯑ing up the bower-anchor, and carrying out an⯑other, they ſoon reſtored her to her ſituation. After labouring all day on the 21ſt, they had gained only two miles on the current, when they came to an anchor; but the ſea running high, they ſailed the day following; and the current now running to the weſtward, they made great way, and, in the evening, anchored in a com⯑modious bay, where the Tamar had arrived be⯑fore them. It is remarkable that, notwith⯑ſtanding the late ſeverity of the weather added to their inceſſant labour, the crew retained both health and ſpirits.

On the 23d they again ſet ſail, and in a few hours had ſight of the South Sea, which rolled a prodigious ſwell on them. On the 25th two boats which had been ſent in ſearch of anchor⯑ing-places, returned with an account, that they had found two, but neither of them very eligi⯑ble; they, however, made ſail the next morn⯑ing, and at four in the afternoon found them⯑ſelves within a mile of the ſouth ſhore, which [26] the thickneſs of the weather prevented their ſee⯑ing ſooner; but as there was no place to an⯑chor in, they ſtood for the oppoſite ſhore. Be⯑tween ſix and ſeven the Tamar was ordered un⯑der the ſtern of the Dolphin, and then directed to keep a-head of her during the night to ſhow lights, and as often as ſhe varied her tack to fire a gun. At ſeven in the evening the wea⯑ther cleared for a minute, ſo that they had ſight of the north-ſhore, bearing weſt by north, on which they inſtantly tacked-about. The wind now blew a perfect hurricane; the rain deſ⯑cended in torrents; ſome of the ſails were torn to rags; and during this tempeſtuous night, in which the ſea was continually breaking over them, the ſhips parted company, and were en⯑compaſſed with rocks and breakers: however, they happily weathered the ſtorm, and at ſeven in the morning both ſhips came to an anchor. They had now been twice within four leagues of Tueſday's Bay, at the weſtern mouth of the ſtreight, and twice driven ten or twelve leagues back again by ſtorms; ſo dangerous is the na⯑vigation of this ſtreight at an improper ſeaſon of the year.

On the 28th the Tamar narrowly eſcaped be⯑ing daſhed to pieces againſt the rocks, by the parting of the cable to her beſt bower-anchor. The Dolphin weighed anchor the next morn⯑ing, and got under ſail, which ſhe had no ſooner done, than ſignals of diſtreſs were made on [27] board the Tamar, the anchor of which could not be purchaſed. The Dolphin, therefore, ſtood again into the bay, and ſent her the pro⯑per aſſiſtance, after which they both anchored for the night; a night the moſt dreadful they had yet known. The winds were ſo violent as perfectly to tear up the ſea, and carry it higher than the heads of the maſts: a dreadful ſea rolled over them, and broke againſt the rocks with a noiſe as loud as thunder. Happily, they did not part their cables, or they muſt have been daſhed in pieces againſt theſe rocks.

On the following day (April 1ſt) it was al⯑moſt a perfect calm; but in the evening it rain⯑ed much, and the wind blew violently: they therefore remained in their ſtation till the 4th, when the cutter, which had been ſent in ſearch of a proper anchoring-place, returned with an account, of having found ſuch place to the weſt of the north-ſhore.

The officer who commanded the cutter had met with a party of Indians, whoſe canoe was of a conſtruction not obſerved before, being compoſed of planks ſewed together. Theſe Indians had no covering but a piece of ſeal-ſkin thrown over their ſhoulders. Their food, which was of the moſt indelicate kind, was eaten raw: one of them tore a piece of ſtinking whale's blubber with his teeth, and then gave it his companions, who followed his example. One [28] of theſe Indians obſerving a ſailor aſleep, cut off a part of his jacket with a ſharp flint.

The ſhips ſoon came to an anchor in the bay which had been diſcovered, propoſing to take in wood and water. While they remained here, ſeveral of the natives made a fire oppoſite the ſhip; on which ſignals were made for them to come on board; but as they would not, the Commodore went on ſhore, and gave them ſome trifles, which pleaſed them highly; he likewiſe divided ſome biſcuit among them, and was ſur⯑prized to remark, that if a bit of it fell to the ground, not one of them would ſtoop to take it up without his permiſſion: ſome of the ſail⯑ors being at this time cutting graſs for a few ſheep which the Commodore had on board, the Indians inſtantly ran to their aſſiſtance, and tearing up the graſs in large quantities, ſoon filled the boat. On Mr. Byron's return, they followed in their canoe till they came near the ſhip, at which they gazed with the moſt pro⯑found aſtoniſhment. Four of them were at length prevailed on to go on board; and the Commodore, with a view to their diverſion, directed one of the midſhipmen to play on the violin, while ſome of the ſeamen danced; the poor Indians were extravagantly delighted; and one of them, to teſtify his gratitude, took his canoe, and fetching ſome red paint, rubbed it all over the face of the muſician; nor could the Commodore, but with the utmoſt difficulty, [29] eſcape the like compliment. When they had been diverted for ſome hours, it was hinted to them, that they ſhould go on ſhore; which they at length did, tho' with evident reluctance.

They ſailed from this bay on the 7th, and on the 8th again encountered very bad weather, as it rained and ſnowed, while the wind blew a hurricane. On the 9th they paſſed ſome dan⯑gerous rocks, which in Narborough's Voyage are called the Judges, and on which the ſurf beats with prodigious violence. This day, con⯑trary to expectation, a ſteady gale at ſouth-weſt carried them at the rate of nine miles an hour, ſo that by eight in the evening they were 20 leagues from the coaſt on which they had en⯑countered ſo many perils.

The Commodore recommends it to future navigators, to be at the eaſtern entrance of the Streight of Magellan in December; in which caſe he thinks even a fleet of ſhips might navi⯑gate it ſafely in about three weeks. He ob⯑ſerves, that the facility with which wood and water are to be obtained; the vaſt plenty of vegetables on the coaſt, and the abundance of fiſh which may be almoſt every where procured, are advantages highly in favour of this paſſage. It is remarkable, that in ſeven weeks and two days, the time they were in paſſing it, not a ſingle man was ſick of the ſcurvy, or any other diſorder.

[30]On the 26th they ſailed weſtward, bearing away for the Iſland of Maſafuero, which they were within ſeven leagues of the ſame evening. The next day they bore away for the north of the Iſland, and then lay by for the boats, which had been ſent to found the eaſtern ſide, but could not land for the violence of the ſurf. The boats returning, brought a number of fine fiſh, which had been catched with the hook and line: and the officer reporting, that he had found a bank where they might anchor, and oppoſite to which was plenty of freſh wa⯑ter; they made ſail for this bank, on which they anchored at 7 o'clock on Sunday morning. The boats were now ſent out for wood and wa⯑ter, their crews having put on cork-jackets, to aſſiſt them in ſwimming, and prevent their be⯑ing bruiſed againſt the rocks. In theſe ſeas were a great number of very large ſharks, which were frequently very near the ſwimmers; but they providential eſcaped them. One of theſe voracious fiſh ſeized a large ſeal cloſe to one of the watering-boats, and devoured it in an in⯑ſtant; and the Commodore ſaw another do the ſame, cloſe to the ſtern of the ſhip. The iſland abounds in goats, many of which were killed and ſent on board, and they were deemed equal in flavour to the fineſt veniſon. One of the goats had his right ear ſlit, ſo as to make it evident that ſome perſon had caught him, given him that mark of diſtinction, and let him go [31] again. Various ſorts of excellent fiſh were now ſo plenty, that they could catch ſufficient to ſupply the whole crew two days, in a few hours, with hook and line only.

The gunner and one of the ſeamen, who were, with others, on ſhore for water, were left behind all night, being afraid to venture in the boat, as the ſea ran high. The Commodore being informed of this circumſtance, ſent them word, that as blowing weather might be expect⯑ed, the ſhip might be driven from her moor⯑ings in the night, in which caſe they would in⯑fallibly be left behind. This meſſage being de⯑livered, the gunner ſwam to the boat; but the ſailor ſaying, he had rather die a natural death than be drowned, refuſed to make the attempt; and taking a melancholy farewell of his compa⯑nions, reſolved to abide his fate; when, juſt as the boat was going to put off, a midſhipman took the end of a rope in his hand, and ſwam on ſhore, where he remonſtrated with the poor tar on the fooliſh reſolution he had taken, till having an opportunity of throwing the rope, in which was a running knot, round his body, he called to the boat's crew, who inſtantly dragged their companion on board; but he had ſwallowed ſo much water that he appeared to be dead. They recovered him, however, by holding up his heels, and on the day following he was perfectly well.

[32]The Commodore now made a promotion among the officers, he appointed captain Mouat, captain of the Dolphin under him, making Mr. Cumming, the firſt lieutenant of the Dol⯑phin, captain of the Tamar, and advancing ſome other inferior officers.

They ſailed on the 30th of April, ſteering in various directions till the 10th of May, on which, and the day following, they ſaw ſeveral dolphins and bonettas round the ſhip, and ob⯑ſerved a few birds which had a ſhort beak; all their bodies being white, except the back and the upper part of the wings. They ſaw ſeveral grampuſes the next day, and more of the birds juſt mentioned; from whence they concluded, that they approached ſome land. Two re⯑markable birds, as large as geeſe, with white bodies and black legs, and which flew very high, were obſerved on the 16th, from whence it was conjectured, that they had paſſed ſome main-land, or iſlands. On the 22d they ſaw ſeveral tropic birds, and caught two bonettas; and on the 26th two large birds, the beak and neck of which were white, and all the reſt black, flew about the ſhip. On the 28th two other birds, one black and white, and the other brown and white, would have ſettled on the yards, but were intimidated by the working of the ſhip. For ſeveral days after they ſaw great numbers of birds, and on the 7th of June they diſcovered land, being then in fourteen degrees [33] five minutes ſouth latitude, and 144 degrees 58 minutes weſt longitude.

The Commodore now ſteered for a ſmall iſland, the appearance of which was pleaſing beyond expreſſion, being ſurrounded by a beach of fine white ſand, and covered with lofty trees, which extending their ſhade to a conſiderable diſtance, and having no underwood, formed the moſt elegant groves that the imagination can paint an idea of. Several of the natives ſoon appeared, having long ſpears in their hands, who made large fires, which were anſwered by correſponding fires on an iſland to the wind⯑ward. A boat was ſent to look out for an an⯑choring-place, but none was to be found. At this time many of the beſt hands were confined to their hammocks with the ſcurvy; while thoſe who were able to keep the deck, looked and languiſhed for thoſe re-invigorating delicacies which were unhappily beyond their reach. The ſhells of turtle were ſtrewed along the ſhore, and they beheld numbers of cocoa-nuts, to the milk of which fruit the ſcurvy ſeldom fails to yield. The inhabitants of this iſland kept a-breaſt of the ſhip, dancing and ſhouting: they ſometimes ſhook their ſpears, and then falling backwards, lay motionleſs, as if dead, which was underſtood to be a threat of deſtruc⯑tion to ſuch as ſhould preſume to land. They likewiſe fixed two ſpears in the ſand, on the top of which were faſtened ſome things which [34] waved in the air: before theſe they kneeled, and appeared as if invoking the aſſiſtance of the Deity againſt the ſuppoſed invaders. The Com⯑modore was tempted, from its very appearance, to ſail round the iſland; while he was doing which, he again ſent out boats to ſound; on which the natives made a moſt hideous out-cry; took up and balanced large ſtones in their hands, and pointed to their ſpears. The ſail⯑ors, on the contrary, made every poſſible ſign of friendſhip, throwing bread and other things on ſhore; which they would not touch, but retired to the woods, dragging their canoes after them. This being done, they ran into the water, watching as for an opportunity to drag the boat on ſhore. The ſeamen, irritated at this behaviour, would have fired on the In⯑dians, but were reſtrained by command of the officer on board.

The crew of the boats having again reported, that no anchorage could be found, the Com⯑modore proceeded to the other iſland, and on the next morning brought to, at three quarters of a mile from the ſhore. Several other iſlands were now ſeen, covered with the cocoa-nut-tree. The natives again ran to the beach, armed with clubs and ſpears, uſing threatening geſtures. The Commodore fired a cannon-ſhot over their heads, on which they retreated to the woods. The boats having been again ſent out, returned with an account, that no [35] landing-place could be found; on which Mr. Byron named this paradiſe in appearance, the ISLANDS OF DISAPPOINTMENT. The natives are ſtout, and well made, very quick runners, and their complexion is that of the deep copper.

Having ſailed on the 8th of June, they diſ⯑covered an iſland on the day following, which laid low, and was covered with various kinds of trees, among which was the cocoa-nut; the iſland was ſurrounded with a rock of red coral. The inhabitants on the coaſt having made large fires, as ſuppoſed to alarm the more inland na⯑tives, they ran along the ſhore in multitudes, armed like thoſe of the Iſlands of Diſappoint⯑ment. The veſſels now brought to, at a ſmall inlet, opening into a lake of ſalt water, which appeared more than two leagues wide. At this place was a little town, under the ſhade of a grove of cocoa-nut-trees. The ſhips ad⯑vancing to the mouth of the inlet, ſome hun⯑dreds of the natives, headed by a kind of of⯑ficer, who carried a pole, on which was faſten⯑ed a piece of mat, ranged themſelves up to the waiſts in water, making a hideous noiſe, till they were joined by a number of large canoes which came down the lake. At this time two boats were out in ſearch of ſoundings, and the crews of them making every poſſible ſign of friend⯑ſhip, ſome of the canoes drew towards them, not, indeed, as we hoped, with a peaceable intention, but with a view to haul the boats on [36] ſhore: ſeveral of the natives, leaping from the rocks, ſwam to the boats; and one of them ſprang into the Tamar's boat, ſnatched up a ſeaman's jacket, and inſtantly dived from the boat to the ſhore: another of them laid violent hands on a hat, but loſt his prize through his ignorance, as he pulled it downwards, inſtead of lifting it from the head.

They now ſailed weſtward, and ſoon diſco⯑vered another iſland, diſtant four leagues. The natives purſued them in two large double canoes, in each of which were about thirty armed men. At this time the boats were at a conſiderable way to leeward of the ſhips, and were chaced by the canoes; on which the Commodore mak⯑ing a ſignal, the boats turned towards the Indi⯑ans, who inſtantly pulled down their ſails, and rowed away with great rapidity: they drove through the violent ſurf on the ſhore, and were followed by the boats; when, apprehending the invaſion of their country, they armed them⯑ſelves with ſtones and clubs; on which the boat's crew fired, and killed two or three of them, one of whom died as he was throwing a ſtone at his enemy, after three balls had gone thro' his body^*. This poor fellow dropping cloſe to the boats, his body was brought to the ſhip; but the Indians carried off the reſt of their [37] companions. The boats carried the two canoes with them, as the trophies of their ſcandalous victory. Theſe veſſels conſiſted of planks ſewed together, with a ſtrip of tortoiſeſhell fixed over each ſeam: they had ſharp bottoms, and were very narrow; and two of them were faſtened a-longſide each other by two timbers, which left a ſpace of full ſix feet between the canoes: a ſail, made of neat matting, paſſed from one veſ⯑ſel to the other, being fixed to a maſt which was hoiſted in each of them: when they ſail, ſeve⯑ral men ſit on the timbers which lay from boat to boat: their cordage appeared to be formed of the outer covering of the cocoa-nut, and was exquiſitely well made.

As no refreſhments could be obtained, ow⯑ing to the violence of the ſurf, the Commodore returned to his former ſtation at the inlet, and again ſent the boats in ſearch of an anchoring-place. A number of the Indians were on the ſpot were he had left them, and were loading ſome large canoes, moſt probably to attack the boats; on which a ſhot was fired over their heads, and they inſtantly ran away and ſecreted themſelves. The boats returned in the evening, with a few cocoa-nuts; and in the morning were ſent out again, with all the invalids who were able to go in them. The Commodore went on ſhore this day, and ſaw many Indian huts, which were co⯑vered with the branches of the cocoa-nut-tree: they were mean buildings, but finely ſituated [38] among groves of lofty trees. The men went naked; but ſome women were ſeen, who wore a kind of cloth from the waiſt to the knee. The ſhore abounded with coral, and the ſhells of large pearl oyſters; and 'tis probable a va⯑luable pearl-fiſhery might be eſtabliſhed here. There were many dogs in the huts, who kept barking conſtantly till our adventurers went on board.

The next day the ſeamen found, in one of the huts, the carved head of a rudder, which had evidently belonged to a Dutch long-boat: they likewiſe found a piece of braſs, another of iron, and ſome iron tools; but by whom theſe things were left is wholly unknown.

The burial-places of the natives were under high trees, near their houſes; and their tombs conſiſted of fl [...] ſt [...] laid on perpendicular ſide ſtones, like thoſe in the church-yards of England. On the branches which ſhaded theſe repoſitories hung baſkets of reeds, containing the heads and bones of turtle and other fiſh, and near the graves were ſeveral boxes filled with human bones.

The flies on this iſland were extremely trou⯑bleſome, but no venomous creature was ſeen. Parrots and other birds were very plentiful, and they ſaw ſome beautiful doves, ſo tame as to follow them into the huts of the Indians. The water of the iſland is good, and the ſurface of the ground is almoſt covered with ſcurvy-graſs. [39] This part of the iſland is ſituated in 14 degrees 29 minutes ſouth, and 148 degrees 50 minutes weſt.

On Wedneſday, June the 12th, they ſailed to another iſland, and as they coaſted along it, the natives, armed as thoſe of the other iſlands, kept even with the ſhip for ſome leagues. They frequently plunged into the ſea, or fell on the ſand, that the ſurf might break over them, to cool and refreſh themſelves. The boats being near the ſhore, the crew made ſigns that they were in want of water; on which the natives pointed farther along the ſhore, where, when the boats arrived, they ſaw a number of houſes, and whither they were followed by the Indians, many more of whom joined them at this place. The boats having got cloſe in ſhore, and the ſhips laying at a ſmall diſtance, a ve⯑nerable old man, with a white beard, advanced from the houſes to the beach, attended by a young fellow. Having made a ſignal for the other Indians to retire, he came forward to the edge of the water, preſſing his beard to his breaſt with one hand, and holding a branch of a tree in the other. He now made a kind of muſical oration, during which the people in the boat threw him ſome trifling preſents, which he would neither take up, nor permit his attendant to touch, till he had finiſhed his harangue, when he walked into the water, and throwing the branch to the boat's crew, he retired, and picked [40] up their preſents. Moſt of the natives having complied with a ſign made for them to lay down their arms, one of the Midſhipmen ſwam aſhore; on which they flocked round him, ad⯑miring his cloaths; as his waiſtcoat pleaſed them moſt he gave it to them, which he had no ſooner done, than one of them untied his cravat and ran away with it. He now thought it time to retreat to the boat, whither ſeveral of the na⯑tives ſwam after him; ſome bringing each a cocoa-nut, and others freſh water in the nut-ſhell. The boat's crew had taken with them ſome ſhells of the pearl oyſter, in order to learn of the natives how to procure ſome pearls; but they could not poſſibly make them comprehend their meaning. This iſland is ſituated in 14 de⯑grees 41 minutes ſouth latitude, and 149 de⯑grees 15 minutes weſt longitude; and both the iſlands the Commodore called KING GEORGE'S ISLANDS, in reſpect to his Sovereign. In a lake belonging to the laſt iſland, two or three very large veſſels were ſeen, one of which had two maſts, with proper cordage.

The boats having returned on board, they ſailed weſtward the ſame day; and the next af⯑ternoon deſcried another iſland, towards which they immediately ſailed, and found that it was well inhabited, and had a fine appearance of verdure; but that a violent ſurf broke all along the coaſt. It lies in 15 degrees ſouth, and 151 [41] degrees 53 minutes weſt, and received the name of the PRINCE OF WALES'S ISLAND.

They now ſailed northward. From the vaſt flocks of birds they had repeatedly ſeen, which always winged their way to the ſouth, on the approach of evening; and from the iſlands being ſo well peopled, the Commodore con⯑cluded that there was a chain of iſlands leading to a continent, the diſcovery of which he would certainly have attempted, but the crews of both ſhips were ſo unhealthy, as to render it impoſ⯑ſible for us to ſucceed.

On Monday, June the 17th, they concluded that land was near, from the multitudes of birds which flocked about the ſhip; but they ſaw no land till the 21ſt, when it was diſcovered at eight leagues diſtance, having the appear⯑ance of three iſlands, with rocks between them. Theſe iſlands abounded with inhabitants, whoſe dwellings lined the coaſt; and the beauty and fertility of the ſoil, ſeemed to excel that of any place they had ſeen: but the rocks and break⯑ers with which it was ſurrounded, were an in⯑ſuperable bar to any attempt at landing. On the night of the 21ſt all hands were on deck, as it rained hard, and the wind blew violently. Soon after nine o'clock the Tamar fired a gun, and the crew of the Dolphin imagined they ſaw breakers to leeward; but it proved to be only the undulating reflection of the ſetting moon on the waters.

[42]On the 24th they diſcovered another iſland, which was named the DUKE OF YORK'S ISLAND. A terrible ſea breaks round the coaſt, but the place itſelf had a pleaſing appearance. The boats landed with ſome difficulty, and brought off a large quantity of cocoa-nuts, which were a great relief to the ſick. Thouſands of ſea-fowls were found ſitting on their neſts in high trees, and were ſo tame as to be eaſily knocked down, and there were great numbers of land-crabs on the ground. This iſland has a large lake in the midſt of it, but has no inhabitants.

On the 29th they ſailed northward, with a view to croſs the equinoxial line, and then ſail for the Ladrone Iſlands. On the 2d of July they diſcovered a low flat iſland, abounding with the cocoa-nut and other trees, and affording a moſt agreeable proſpect. A great number of the natives were ſeen on the beach, many of whom, in above ſixty canoes or proas, ſailed, and formed a circle round the ſhips; which having ſurveyed for a conſiderable time, one of the Indians jumped out of his boat, ſwam to the ſhip, ran up its ſide in a moment, ſat down on the deck, and began laughing moſt violent⯑ly: he then ran about the ſhip, pilfering what⯑ever he could lay hands on, which was taken from him as faſt as ſtolen. This man having as many antic tricks as a monkey, was dreſſed in a jacket and trowſers, and afforded exquiſite diverſion. He devoured ſome biſcuit with great eagerneſs, [43] and having played the buffoon ſome time, made prize of his new dreſs, by jumping over the ſide of the ſhip, and ſwimming to his companions. Several others now ſwam to the ſhip, and run⯑ning up the ſide to the gun-room ports, com⯑mitted ſome petty theft, ſwimming off with their booty with ſurpriſing expedition. Theſe Indi⯑ans are of a bright copper, with regular and chearful features, and are tall and well-made. Their hair, which is long and black, is either tied in three knots, or in a large bunch behind. Their ears were bored, and they certainly had worn heavy ornaments in them, as ſome of them were drawn down almoſt to their ſhoulders: their ornaments were ſhells ſtrung together, and worn round the waiſt, wriſt, and neck; but they were otherwiſe naked. One of them, who ſeem⯑ed to be of ſome rank, wore a ſtring of human teeth round his waiſt. Some of them carried a long ſpear, the ſides of which, for the length of three feet, were ſtuck with the teeth of the ſhark, which are as keen as a razor. Some cocoa-nuts being ſhewn them, and ſigns made that more were wanted, they endeavoured to ſteal thoſe, inſtead of directing where more might be found.

The officers named this place BYRON'S ISLAND, in honour of the Commodore. It lies in 1 de⯑gree 18 minutes ſouth latitude, and 173 degrees 46 minutes eaſt longitude. They ſailed from hence on the 3d of July, on the 21ſt of which month the men again grew ill of the ſcurvy, [44] having eaten up all the cocoa-nuts, which are, perhaps, the beſt cure for this diſorder in the world Several of the people were alſo trou⯑bled with fluxes, owing to the extreme heat of the weather. On the 22d they ſailed for the iſland of Tinian, being nearly in the latitude of that place; and ſix days afterwards they had ſight of the iſlands Saypan, Tinian, and Ai⯑guigan, which lie between two and three leagues from each other. At noon, on the 31ſt, they anchored at the ſouth-weſt end of Tinian, in the ſituation where the Centurion had anchored with Commodore Anſon. The water is ſo won⯑derfully clear at this place, that, though 144 feet deep, they could ſee the ground.

The Commodore went on ſhore, where he ſaw many huts, which had been left the prece⯑ding year by the Spaniards and Indians. Hav⯑ing choſen a ſpot on which to erect tents for the ſick, Mr. Byron and his company, with prodigious difficulty, worked their way through the woods, in ſearch of thoſe elegant meadows and lawns, of which ſo enchanting a picture is given in Anſon's Voyage: but, to their un⯑ſpeakable mortification, they found the lawns covered with reeds, in which their legs were entangled, and cut as with whipcord; and theſe reeds were, in ſome places, higher than their heads, and in none leſs than half that height. From head to foot they were covered with flies, which got down their throats as often as they [45] opened their mouths. In this excurſion they killed a bull, and then retiring to the tents, which had been erected in their abſence, they ſent a party to fetch home their prize.

The invalids having been brought on ſhore the preceding day, they, on the 1ſt of Auguſt, began clearing the well, which Mr. Byron ſuppoſes to be the ſame that the Centurion watered at; but he ſays the water was brackiſh, and full of worms. While they lay here the wind once drove in ſo vi⯑olently from the weſt, that the ſhips were obliged to put to ſea for a week, to avoid being daſhed againſt the rocks. The armourer's forge was brought on ſhore, to repair the iron-work of the ſhips; and the Commodore had a tent erected; as he was very ill of the ſcurvy. The crew reco⯑vered apace from the ſcurvy; but many of them were ſeized with fevers, of whom two died, be⯑ing the firſt they had loſt ſince they left Eng⯑land. The rains were violent, and almoſt per⯑petual; and the heat ſo intenſe, that the ther⯑mometer on board the ſhip generally ſtood at 86, only 9 degrees leſs than the heat of the blood at the human heart. Innumerable inſects tormented them; and they were perpetually in⯑feſted by muſquitos in the night, and flies by day. The iſland ſwarms alſo with black ants, centipieds, and ſcorpions.

Parties were ſent out to kill cattle, which, af⯑ter being abſent three days and nights, and kil⯑ling a bullock, had ſeven or eight miles to drag [46] it through the woods and lawns, and when i [...] arrived, it was commonly fly-blown, and ſtunk intolerably: add to this, that the extreme toil of this duty brought on fevers, which confined the men to their tents. They killed poultry with eaſe; but the heat was ſo exceſſive, that it would turn green, and ſwarm with maggots, in leſs than an hour after it was killed. They kil⯑led wild hogs that weighed 200 pounds each, which afforded them their chief ſupply of freſh meat. A negro belonging to the Tamar con⯑trived a method to enſnare theſe animals, ſo that they ſent many on board alive, and were thus always certain of having freſh meat both in the ſhip and on ſhore.

A ſpot having been found where cattle were plentiful, a party was ſent to kill them, having a tent erected for their uſe, and boats were ſent daily to bring away what they killed: three of the crew of the Tamar were loſt in this ſervice, by the violent breaking of the ſea upon the rocks. Bread was now baked every day for the uſe of the ſick, and, upon the whole, they were well ſupplied with proviſions.

The iſland of Saypan is not only larger, but pleaſanter that Tinian. It is, in a great degree, covered with trees, and abounds with hogs and guanicoes. It is conjectured that the Spaniards, at ſtated periods, carry on a pearly-fiſhery at this iſland, as there were evident ſigns of people [47] having been lately there, and large heaps of the oyſter-ſhells were ſeen.

The Commodore remained at Tinian till the 30th of September, by which time the ſick be⯑ing tolerably well recovered, he weighed anchor, and ſtood to the northward. This iſland pro⯑duces plenty of cotton and indigo, with cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, guavas, paupaus, ſour oranges, and limes.

On the 18th of October ſeveral land-birds, apparently much fatigued, flew near the ſhip; one of which, of the ſize of a gooſe, reſted on the booms: its legs and beak were black, but every other part white; and the beak was of a moſt monſtrous length and thickneſs. On the 30th they ſaw a number of trees and bamboos floating near the veſſel, which was then in 23 fathom water. On the 5th of November they came to an anchor off the Iſland of Timoan, on which Mr. Byron landed the day following. The inhabitants, who are Malays, no ſooner ſaw the boat making for the ſhore, than many of them came to the beach, each having a dag⯑ger by his ſide, a ſpear in one hand, and a long knife in the other. The boat's crew, however, made no heſitation to land, and bartered a few handkerchiefs for a goat, a kid, and a dozen of fowls.

The Malays are of a copper complexion, well made, but of ſmall ſtature. They wore turbans on their heads, and pieces of cloth, faſ⯑tened [48] with a ſilver claſp, round the waiſt; but one old man among them was habited nearly in the Perſian faſhion. Their houſes, which are raiſed on poſts eight feet from the ground, are compoſed of the bamboo, ſlit, and are very neatly conſtructed. The iſland produces the cocoa-nut and cabbage-trees in great abund⯑ance, and there are ſome rice grounds on it. While the ſhips lay at anchor, ſome of the in⯑habitants brought a living animal on board, which had legs like that of a deer, with a body like a hare, which proved to be very fine eat⯑ing. The crews catched large quantities of fiſh in this harbour, from whence they ſailed on the 7th of the month.

Nothing worth notice happened till the 14th, when a ſloop being ſeen at anchor in the har⯑bour of an Iſland named Pulo Toupoa, Mr. Byron, having anchored in the ſame harbour, and obſerved that the veſſel hoiſted Dutch Co⯑lours, ſent an officer on board her, who was re⯑ceived with great politeneſs, tea being immedi⯑ately made for him and his attendants; but he could not make himſelf underſtood, the crew conſiſting entirely of Malays. This veſſel, which was made of ſlit bamboo, had a piece of timber on each quarter, which ſerved to ſteer her inſtead of a rudder.

The Commodore ſailed the following day, and held his courſe till the 19th, when he ſpoke with an Engliſh Snow, bound from Bencoolen [49] to Malacca and Bengal, in the Eaſt India Com⯑pany's ſervice. At this time their biſcuit was filled with worms and rotten, and their beef and pork was ſtinking. The maſter of the Snow being apprized of this circumſtance, ſent Mr. Byron two gallons of arrack, a turtle, twelve fowls, and a ſheep; which is ſuppoſed to have been the half of his ſtock, and for which he refuſed to accept the ſlighteſt return. They dropped their anchors this day in the road of Sumatra; and on the 27th, came to an anchor in that of Batavia.

Having anchored nearer the town on the fol⯑lowing day, they fired eleven guns, which were returned; and an Engliſh ſhip from Bombay fired 13 guns in honour of the Commodore.

The Dutch Commodore ſent his boat on board the Dolphin, under the command of his cock-ſwain, who made but a ſhabby appearance. He put ſeveral queſtions to Mr. Byron reſpecting his voyage and deſtination, and took a book from his pocket to write down his anſwers, which Mr. Byron conſidering as an indignity, deſired him inſtantly to leave the ſhip; which he did not think proper to heſitate at doing.

Mr. Byron viſited the Dutch Commodore at his country houſe, was received with great po⯑liteneſs, and told, that he might take a houſe in any part of the city, or be lodged at the ho⯑tel. Any inhabitant of Batavia permitting a ſtranger to ſleep, though but for a ſingle night, [50] in his houſe, incurs a penalty of 500 dollars; the hotel being the only I cenſed lodging houſe, the Governor appoints the keeper of it, who at this time was a Frenchman. This hotel is the moſt ſuperb building in the city, having more the air of a palace than an inn. All the ſtreets of Batavia are well diſpoſed, and having canals running through them, reſemble the cities of Holland. The inhabitants are a motley herd of Dutch, Portugueſe, Chineſe, Perſians, Moors, Malays, Javaneſe, &c. and their numbers are amazingly great. The Chineſe live in a kind of ſeparate town without the city walls, and deal very largely, having annually ten or twelve veſ⯑ſels laden from China. The roads, for ſeveral miles round the city, are very wide, and have a canal, ſhaded with trees, running by them, wh [...]ch is broad enough for the navigation of large veſſels. Adjoining to this canal are the country-houſes and gardens of the citizens.

The ſhips remained in this harbour till the 10th of December, when they ſailed, being ſa⯑luted with eleven guns by the fort, and thirteen by the Dutch Commodore. During their run from [...]ence to Prince's Iſland, in the Streight of Surda, they were ſo abundantly ſupplied with turtle, by boats from the Java ſhore, that the common ſa [...]lors ſubſiſted wholly on that fiſh. They [...] at Prince's Iſland till the 19th, when they ſailed for the Cape of Good Hope.

[51]On the 10th of February they ſaw a great ſmoke ariſing from a ſandy beach, which they ſuppoſed to have been made by the Hottentots. On the 13th they came to an anchor, and the next morning the Governor ſent his coach and ſix for the Commodore, and received him with great politeneſs, offering him the accommoda⯑tions of the company's houſe in the garden, and the uſe of his coach. The Cape is a fine coun⯑try, ſituated in a healthy climate, and abound⯑ing with various kinds of refreſhments. In a paddock adjoining the Company's garden, which is extremely elegant, oſtriches, zebras, and other curious birds and animals are con⯑ſtantly kept. The Commodore frequently gave his men permiſſion to go on ſhore, and they as conſtantly returned—drunk with the Cape wine.

They ſailed on the 7th of March, and on the 25th croſſed the equinoctial line. About this time an accident happening to the rudder of the Tamar, and it being impoſſible to make a perfect repair of it at ſea, the Captain was or⯑dered to bear away for Antigua; in conſequence of which, they parted company on the firſt of April; and the Dolphin, without meeting with any other material occurrence, came to an anchor in the Downs on the 9th of May, 1760, after having been rather above twenty-two months in the circumnavigation of the globe.

CAPTAIN WALLIS's VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

SAMUEL WALLIS, Eſq having been ap⯑pointed to the command of his Majeſty's ſhip the Dolphin, which was deſtined for a Voy⯑age round the World, he ſailed down the river on the 26th of July, and came to an anchor in Plymouth Sound on the 16th of Auguſt; three days after which he received ſailing orders, and directions to take under his command the Swal⯑low ſloop, and Prince Frederick ſtore ſhip. Theſe veſſels ſailed on the 22d, and on the 7th of September, in the evening, came to an an⯑chor in the road of Madeira. The next morn⯑ing Captain Wallis ſaluted the Governor with 13 guns, and the compliment was returned with an equal number.

They ſailed thence on the 12th, after having taken in beef, wine, and onions, as ſea-ſtores. On the 16th, as they were ſailing off the Iſland of Pal⯑ma, at the rate of eight miles an hour, the wind ſuddenly died away, ſo that the veſſels lay quite ſtill. On the 20th they catched ſeveral bonettas, out of a great number which ſurrounded the ſhip; and this day they ſaw ſome herons flying to the eaſtward. The Swallow, which was a bad ſailer, parted from the other veſſels, in the night between the 21ſt and 22d, but ſhe joined [53] company again on the 24th, within ſix leagues of the Iſle of May. This day the three veſſels came to an anchor in Port Praya, in the above-mentioned iſland; and the next morning they obtained leave from the commanding officer at the fort, to get water and other neceſſaries. This being the ſickly ſeaſon there, and the ſmall-pox being very fatal, the Captain detained every man on board who had not had that diſtemper.

They here catched great quantities of fiſh, and having procured cattle and water, and found ſome wild purſlain that was very refreſhing, they ſailed on the 28th; and, in the night, ſaw the burning mountain on the peak of Fuego. Cap⯑tain Wallis now ordered every man to be fur⯑niſhed with hook and line, that he might ſup⯑ply himſelf with fiſh; and likewiſe, to prevent infection, commanded that no man ſhould keep his fiſh above twenty-four hours. On the 20th they began to ſerve the crews with oil, all the butter and cheeſe being conſumed; and orders were iſſued, that, during the remainder of the voyage, they ſhould be ſerved with vinegar and muſtard once a fortnight. On the 22d they judged that they were within 60 degrees of land, from the ſight of a great number of birds. Two days after this orders were given for ſerv⯑ing the men with brandy, the wine being re⯑ſerved for thoſe that were ill. On the 27th the Prince Frederick ſprung a leak, and her crew were at this time ſo ſickly, through the fatigue of [54] pumping, and the badneſs of their proviſions, that her commander, Lieut Brine, was apprehen⯑ſive he could not keep company much longer, except ſome aſſiſtance could be given him. The Captain ſent a carpenter and ſix ſailors on board, but he was unable to ſupply her with better pro⯑viſions. As the carpenter found he could do little toward ſtopping the leak in the ſtore-ſhip, the Dolphin and Swallow compleated their pro⯑viſions from her ſtores, and put on board her the empty oil jars, ſtaves, and iron hoops.

By the 12th of November they were in 30 degrees of ſouth latitude, when they found the weather ſo cold as to have recourſe to their thick jackets. On the 19th, at eight o'clock at night, they ſaw a meteor, which flew horizontally from north-eaſt to ſouth-weſt, leaving a train of light, which made it as bright as at mid-day on the deck. From the 20th to the 22d they ſaw whales, ſeals; ſnipes, plover, and other birds, and ſome butterflies. On the 8th of December they ſaw land, and on the 9th remarked, that the ſea appeared coloured, by the immenſe quan⯑tities of red ſhrimps that ſurrounded the ſhip.

On the 16th, being very near Cape Virgin Mary, they ſaw ſeveral men riding on the ſhore, who made ſigns for them to land. Having come to an anchor, they obſerved that the natives re⯑mained oppoſite the ſhip all night, ſhouting aloud, and keeping up large fires. In the morn⯑ing the Captain went on ſhore, with a boat's [55] crew from each ſhip, and having made ſigns for the Indians to ſit down, he gave them combs, buttons, knives, ſciſſars, beads, &c. and pleaſed the women greatly by the diſtribution of ſome ribbands. He then intimated that he ſhould be glad to accept ſome guanicoes and oſtriches, in exchange for bill-hooks and hatchets, which he ſhewed them; but they were either really or de⯑ſignedly ignorant of his meaning. The talleſt among theſe people was ſix feet ſeven inches, ſeveral others were from one to two inches ſhort⯑er; but the general height was from five feet ten to ſix feet. They were muſcular and well made, but their hands and feet very ſmall, in pro⯑portion to the reſt of their bodies. They were dreſ⯑ſed in the ſkin of the guanico, with the hairy ſide to their bodies; and ſome of them wore a ſquare piece of cloth, made of the hair of the guanico, and a hole being cut to admit the head through, it reached down to the knees: they wore like⯑wiſe a kind of buſkin from the middle of the leg to the inſtep, which was alſo conveyed un⯑der the heel, but the reſt of the foot was bare: their hair, which was ſtrait and coarſe, was tied back with a cotton ſtring; and their complexion was the dark copper. They rode on horſes about fourteen hands high, and had dogs of the Spa⯑niſh kind; both men and women rode aſtride, and the men were furniſhed with wooden ſpurs: ſome of the men had their arms painted, the faces of others were variouſly marked, and others [56] again had the left eye encloſed by a painted cir⯑cle. Their arms were two round ſtones, en⯑cloſed with leather, one of which was faſtened at each end of a ſtring eight feet in length: and one ſtone being held in the hand, the other was ſwung round the head with great force for ſome time, and then diſcharged at any mark they choſe to ſtrike. They likewiſe catch guanicoes and oſtriches by means of this cord, which is thrown ſo, that the weight twiſts round and hampers the legs of the intended prey. Some of them were obſerved to devour the paunch of an oſtrich raw, having only turned the inſide outwards, and ſhook off ſome of the filth.

Theſe people, who are great talkers, were often heard to ſay Ca-pi-ta-ne, on which they were ſucceſſively addreſſed in Portugueſe, Spa⯑niſh, Dutch, and French; but they had no knowledge of either of thoſe languages. When they ſhook hands with any of the crew, they always ſaid chevow; and they were amazingly ready in learning Engliſh words, and pronoun⯑ced the ſentence ‘"Engliſhmen come on ſhore"’ with great facility.

As they ſeemed deſirous of going on board, the Captain took eight of them into the boats, on which they inſtantly began ſinging for joy; but when they came into the ſhip, they expreſ⯑ſed no kind of ſurprize at the novelties they be⯑held, till a looking-glaſs being obſerved, they acted many antic geſtures before it, occaſionally [57] walking to and from it, talking with earneſtneſs, and laughing immoderately. They would drink nothing but water, but they eagerly ate every article of the ſhip's proviſions. They were highly pleaſed with ſome turkies and guinea-hens which were on board, nor did the hogs and ſheep eſcape their attention. One of them mak⯑ing ſigns that he ſhould be glad of ſome cloaths, the Captain gave him a pair of ſhoes and buckles, and preſented the reſt with a little bag each, in which he put new ſix-pences and halfpence, with a ribband paſſed through a hole in them, to hang round their necks: the remaining contents of the bag were, a looking-glaſs, a comb, ſome beads, a knife, a pair of ſciſſars, ſome twine, and a few ſlips of cloth: being offered ſome to⯑bacco, they ſmoked a few minutes, but did not ſeem to like it. The marines being exerciſed before them, they were terrified at the firing of the muſkets, and one of them falling down, ſhut his eyes, and lay without motion, as if to intimate that he knew the deſtructive nature of thoſe weapons.

It was with difficulty that they were at length prevailed on to go on ſhore; and one of them would not leave the ſhip till he had ſung a long kind of prayer, and even petitioned to ſtay till evening, by pointing to the ſun, and then mov⯑ing his hand round to the weſtern horizon. As ſoon as they were in the boat they began to ſing, and did not ceaſe till they reached the ſhore, [58] where many of their companions preſſed eagerly to be taken into the boat, and were highly af⯑fronted at being refuſed.

This day they turned into the Streight of Magellan with the flood-tide, and ſaw many people on horſeback hunting the guanicoes, which ran up the country with prodigious ſwift⯑neſs. The natives lighted fires oppoſite the ſhips, and in the morning about 400 of them, with their horſes feeding near them, were obſerved in a valley. This being the ſpot where Mr. Byron ſaw the Patagonians, ſome officers were ſent towards the ſhore, but with orders not to land, as the ſhips were too far off to aſſiſt them in caſe of neceſſity. When they came near the land, many of the natives flocked towards them, among whom were women and children, and ſome of the very men they had ſeen the pre⯑ceding day: theſe waded towards the boat, fre⯑quently calling out, ‘"Engliſhmen come on ſhore;"’ and were with difficulty reſtrained from getting into the boat, when they found the crews would not land. Some bread, tobacco, and toys were diſtributed, but not an article of proviſions could be obtained in return.

On the 23d the tide was ſo violent, that the ſhips were driven three ſeveral ways; but in the evening they were ſafely anchored. On Chriſtmas-day they procured a quantity of ce⯑lery from Elizabeth Iſland, which being boiled with portable ſoup and wheat, the crews break⯑faſted [59] on it ſeveral days. Many huts were found on this iſland, and two dogs were ſeen; but the Indians had quitted it for the preſent. Many high mountains were obſerved, which, though it was then the midſt of ſummer, were, in a great de⯑gree, covered with ſnow.

On the 26th they anchored in Port Famine Bay, and the ſick were ſent on ſhore, where a tent was erected for their reception, as was ano⯑ther for the accommodation of the ſail-makers, and thoſe who landed to get wood. On the 28th the empty water-caſks were landed; and on this day great quantities of fiſh were catched, among which were ſmelts. When they arrived here, many of the people were very bad with the ſcurvy; but by the plentiful uſe of vegetables, and bathing in the ſea, they all recovered in a very ſhort time.

All hands were now employed in repairing and ſtoreing the ſhips; and thouſands of young trees were carefully taken up with the mould about them, to be carried to Falkland's Iſlands, which produce no timber.

On the 17th of January, 1765, the Maſter of the Dolphin, who had been in ſearch of an⯑choring-places, returned with an account, that he had found ſuch as were proper for the pur⯑poſe; and this day the Prince Frederick ſailed for Falkland's Iſlands.

They ſailed on the 18th, and came to an an⯑chor the next day, half a mile from the ſhore, [60] oppoſite a current of freſh water, that falls ra⯑pidly from the mountains. As a more conve⯑nient anchoring-place, and at the ſame time bet⯑ter adapted for procuring wood and water, had been diſcovered, they ſailed again the next day, and, on the 23d, came to an anchor in the bay near Cape Gallant, where they catched wild ducks in ſuch numbers, as to afford them a very ſeaſonable relief. Near this ſpot are very high mountains, one of which was climbed by the Maſter of the Swallow, with the hope of get⯑ting a view of the South Sea; but being diſ⯑appointed in his expectation, he erected a py⯑ramid, and having written the ſhip's name and the date of the year, he left the ſame, with a ſhilling within the ſtructure.

On the 24th they ſaw an animal that was as ſwift as a deer, and had a cloven foot; but in other reſpects it was like an aſs. Near this ſpot the country has a moſt forbidding aſpect:—the mountains on both ſides the Streight are of a ſtupendous height; the lower parts of them are covered with trees, above which a ſpace is oc⯑cupied by withered ſhrubs; higher up are frag⯑ments of broken rock, and heaps of ſnow; and the tops are totally rude, naked, and deſolate.

On the evening of the 28th they ſaw a great ſmoke on the ſouthern ſhore, and another on Prince Rupert's Iſland; and the next morning ſome people being ſent on ſhore for water, they had no ſooner landed, than ſeveral of the natives [61] came off in three canoes; and, having advanced towards the ſailors, made ſigns of friendſhip, which being anſwered to their wiſh, they ſhouted aloud, and the Engliſh ſhouted in return. When the Indians came up they were eating the fleſh of ſeals raw, and were covered with the ſkins, which ſtunk intolerably. They had bows, ar⯑rows, and javelins, the two laſt of which were pointed with flint. Theſe people were rather low of ſtature, the talleſt of them not exceed⯑ing five feet ſix inches, and their complexion was the deep copper colour.

Three of theſe people being taken on board the Dolphin, they ate whatever food was of⯑fered them; but, like the Patagonians, would drink only water:—like them too, they were highly diverted with a looking-glaſs, in which they at firſt looked with aſtoniſhment, till, hav⯑ing become a little more familiar with it, they ſmiled at its effect; and finding a correſponding ſmile from the figure in the glaſs, they burſt in⯑to moſt immoderate fits of laughter.

The Captain going on ſhore with them, pre⯑ſented ſome trinkets to their wives and children, and received ſome of their arms, and pieces of mundic, of the kind found in the tin mines of Cornwall. Theſe Indians went off in canoes, the ſails of which were made of the ſeal-ſkin.

The ſhips ſailed on the 3d of February, and came to an anchor in York Road on the ſame day. The next morning Captain Wallis, with [62] a party, went on ſhore near Batchelor's River, and ſaw many Indian huts, and ſeveral dogs, which ran away the moment they were noticed: they likewiſe ſaw oſtriches, and collected vari⯑ous kinds of fiſh and vegetables. There is a cataract near this river, the noiſe of which is tremendous, as it falls more than 400 yards, partly over a very ſteep deſcent, and partly in a perpendicular line.

They ſailed on the 14th, and came to anchor again the ſame day in York Road, after having loſt ground by the contrary winds. The next morning they were driven with ſuch violence by the current, as to be in momentary expectation of being daſhed againſt the rocks, from which they were frequently not half the length of the ſhip; but they were providentially preſerved, and came to an anchor in BUTLER'S BAY, which was ſo called from the name of one of the mates, who diſcovered it. They kept this ſta⯑tion till the 20th, when they encountered a moſt violent ſtorm attended with hail and rain, which increaſed till the evening, the ſea breaking over the forecaſtle upon the quarter-deck; yet, as the cables did not part, they were again won⯑derfully preſerved from deſtruction. They re⯑mained here eight days, taking in wood and water, and repairing the little damage the ſhip had ſuſtained in the ſtorm. They catched fiſh of various kinds, among which were muſcles near ſix inches in length; and procured plenty [63] of vegetables. The mountains in this neigh⯑bourhood had the moſt rugged and deſolate ap⯑pearance; but their height could not be aſcer⯑tained, as their heads were loſt in the clouds; and ſome of them, on the ſouthern ſhore, were ſo exceedingly deſolate, as not to produce even a ſingle blade of graſs; while the vallies were equally barren, and almoſt covered with ſnow.

On the 1ſt of March they ſailed again, and anchored on the ſame day in a bay which they called LION'S COVE, from whence they ſailed on Monday; and on the five following days en⯑countered ſuch terrible weather, that they had no proſpect before them but that of immediate deſtruction: and the crew on board the Dolphin were ſo prepoſſeſſed that the Swallow could not ride out the ſtorm, that they imagined they ſaw ſome of her hands coming over the rocks to⯑wards them.

The ſtorm at length ſubſided; but the wea⯑ther being intenſely cold, each of the men was furniſhed with a thick jacket, made of the woollen ſtuff called Fearnought. During a week which they remained at this place, they were at two-thirds allowance, brandy excepted.

On the 15th both ſhips were ſafely anchored in a place called SWALLOW HARBOUR, from whence they ſailed the next morning; and on the fol⯑lowing day the Swallow, being driven among breakers, made ſignals of diſtreſs; but ſhe was happily relieved by a breeze from the ſhore.

[64]This day the waves ran high, and there was ſo thick a fog, that they narrowly eſcaped ſhipwreck among a number of ſmall iſlands; but the wea⯑ther clearing up a little in the afternoon, they came ſafely to an anchor in a bay under Cape Upright.

On the 19th two canoes, having on board ſeveral Indians, came a-longſide the Dolphin, who had with them a quantity of ſeal's fleſh, blubber, and penguins, which they ate without any kind of dreſſing. A ſeaman having catched a fiſh bigger than a herring, gave it to one of them, who killed it by a bite near the gills, and inſtantly devoured it. Theſe people would not drink any liquor but water, but they eagerly ate proviſions of any kind, boiled, roaſted, raw, ſalt, or freſh. Though the weather was very cold, they had no covering but a ſeal-ſkin, and even that they did not wear when they were rowing. It was remarked that they had all ſore eyes, probably occaſioned by the ſmoke of their fires, and they lived in ſuch a naſty way that they ſmelt as rank as a fox. They had a kind of javelin, pointed with bone, which they uſed in ſtriking fiſh. The Captain preſented them with a few baubles, with which they departed well ſatisfied.

Twenty-two of the ſailors ſtaying one night on an iſland, thirty of the natives hurried to their boat, and began to make free with its con⯑tents; but the ſailors had juſt time to hinder [65] their depredations, which enraging them, they ran to their canoes, and armed themſelves with poles and javelins; but the ſailors giving them ſome ſmall preſents, peace and harmony were ſoon reſtored.

The 30th of the month proving a fine day, they employed themſelves in drying the ſails of the ſhips, which were damaged by having been long wet. Several Indians went on board the next day, and proved to be the people which the boat's crew had ſeen on ſhore.

On the 1ſt of April ſome of the natives brought ſeveral of the birds called Race-horſes, which they ſold to the ſailors. The next day eight Indians brought ſix of their children on board, whom the Captain gratified with brace⯑lets and necklaces. Theſe people were exceed⯑ingly tender in the treatment of their children; and a circumſtance happened which proves that they are not leſs delicate in other reſpects.—A boat was ordered on ſhore to get wood and wa⯑ter: at this time ſome of the Indians were on board, and others in their canoes a-longſide the ſhip: the latter eyed the boat attentively; and, on her putting off, called aloud to their companions, who, without ſpeaking, inſtantly handed down the children, and jumped into the canoes, which were hurried after the boat, while the Indians cried out in a moſt diſtreſsful tone. When the ſhip's boat was near land, ſome women were ſeen among the rocks, to [66] whom the Indians called out aloud, and they all ran away; but the boat's crew having re⯑marked their jealous fears, lay on their oars, to convince them that no injury was intended. The Indians landed, drew their canoes on ſhore, and haſtily followed the objects of their affec⯑tion.

On the 5th, at the requeſt of the Surgeon, orders were given that no more muſcles, of which they had hitherto collected plenty, ſhould be brought on board, as the crew began to be troubled with fluxes. On the 10th the two ſhips ſailed in company; and on the 11th they loſt ſight of each other, and did not meet again during the whole voyage. This day the Dol⯑phin cleared the Streight of Magellan, in which ſhe had laboured with innumerable difficulties, and eſcaped moſt imminent dangers, in a paſ⯑ſage of almoſt four months, viz. from Decem⯑ber the 17th, 1766, to the 11th of April, 1767.

Captain Wallis now proceeds to a deſcription of the places in which the ſhips anchored, dur⯑ing their paſſage through the Streight; but as a minute recital of bearings, diſtances, and ſoundings, would be unintelligible to moſt of our readers, and poſſibly diſguſting to them all, we ſhall omit theſe particulars; extracting only ſuch anecdotes as may furniſh real improvement or entertainment.

In the year 1581 the Spaniards built a town, which they named Phillipville, and left in it a [67] colony of four hundred perſons. Theſe were all ſtarved to death except twenty-four, all of whom but one proceeded in ſearch of the river Plata, and moſt probably periſhed, as no tid⯑ings were ever heard of them: the remaining man, whoſe name was Hernando, was taken on board by Sir William Cavendiſh, in the year 1587, and brought to England; and the place was called Port Famine, from the melancholy fate of theſe unfortunate men. Wood and wa⯑ter abounds at this place; geeſe, ducks, teal, &c. are in great abundance, and there is no want of fiſh; ſo that the face of things muſt be greatly changed ſince the Spaniards died there of hunger.

Cape Holland Bay, where fiſh are catched in great plenty; and the adjacent country pro⯑duces plenty of cranberries and wild celery, but there are no birds. At Cape Gallant Bay there is wood, water, vegetables, and fiſh; as there is alſo at Elizabeth's Bay, and York Road. Butler's Bay abounds with rock-fiſh, muſcles, wild-fowls, &c. Lion Cove and Goodluck Bay produce ſcarce any thing but wood and water. Muſcles and rock-fiſh are found at Swallow Harbour, the mountains round which are deſo⯑late beyond deſcription. Upright Bay produces excellent water, and ſome wild-fowl and fiſh.

On Sunday the 12th of April they held a weſtward courſe, during which a number of ſheerwaters, pintadoes, gannets, and other birds, [68] flew about the ſhip; the upper works of which being open, and the cloaths and bedding con⯑ſtantly wet, the ſailors in a few days were at⯑tacked with colds and fevers. The 27th of this month proving a fine day, the ſick were brought on deck, and nouriſhed with ſalop, and porta⯑ble ſoup, in which wheat was boiled. The vio⯑lent gales ſoon returned, ſo that the beds were again wet through, and it was feared that the ſhip would loſe her maſts: they therefore began to think of altering their courſe, in hope of better weather; and the rather, as the number of ſick encreaſed ſo faſt, that there was danger of ſoon wanting hands to navigate the veſſel.

Nothing material happened from this time till the 14th of May, when ſomething appeared to the eaſtward, which looked like high land, towards which a flock of brown birds were ob⯑ſerved to fly: they therefore ſteered all night for this ſuppoſed land; but at day-break could ſee no ſigns of it. As the weather now mended, the people recovered very faſt; and the car⯑penters were buſied in caulking the upper-works of the ſhip, and repairing the boats. On the 21ſt they ſaw a number of flying-fiſh, and on the day following tropic birds, bonettas, and dolphins. About this time thoſe who had recovered from colds were attacked with the ſcurvy; on which ſome ſweet-wort was extracted from malt for their uſe, and they were ſupplied with pickled cabbage, and wine inſtead of [69] brandy. Two grampuſes were ſeen on the 26th, and on the day following variety of birds, one of which was taken for a land-bird, and reſem⯑bled a ſwallow. Every method of cleanlineſs, and change of food, was now taken to prevent the ſcurvy, which began to encreaſe very faſt.

On the firſt of June they ſaw ſeveral men of war birds, and the next day obſerved ſome gan⯑nets; and the weather being at this time very various, they conceived hopes that they drew near the land. On the 4th a turtle ſwam cloſe by the ſhip; and the next day a great variety of birds were ſeen.

The long wiſhed-for relief was now faſt ap⯑proaching; for on Saturday the 6th the man at the maſt-head cried, ‘"Land in the weſt-north-weſt."’ This proved to be a low iſland, diſtant five or ſix leagues, and was ſoon ſeen from the deck, to the great joy of every one on board. When they came within five miles of this iſland, they diſcovered another to the weſt-north-weſt. Two boats were ſent to the firſt diſcovered iſland, under the command of the ſecond Lieu⯑tenant, the crews being well provided with arms. When the boats came near the iſland, two ca⯑noes were obſerved to put off to the other iſland. The crews having landed, gathered ſome cocoa-nuts, and collected a quantity of ſcurvy-graſs, with which they returned to the ſhip, bringing with them ſome fiſh-hooks which the iſlanders had formed of oyſter-ſhells. In this excurſion [70] they ſaw three huts, ſupported on poſts, and open all round, but thatched with cocoa-nut and palm leaves, ingeniouſly wrought toge⯑ther. As no anchorage was to be found, and the whole iſland was encompaſſed with rocks and breakers, the Captain reſolved to ſteer for the other iſland, giving the name of WHITSUN ISLAND to this, becauſe it was diſcovered on the eve of Whitſunday.

Having approached the other iſland, about 50 of the natives, armed with pikes, and ſome having fire-brands in their hands, were obſerv⯑ed running on the coaſt. Two boats were ſent out, manned and armed, and the Lieutenant was inſtructed to ſteer for that part of the ſhore where the people had been ſeen; to avoid of⯑fending them, and to try to procure water and fruit in exchange for ſuch commodities as he took with them. When the boat came near the ſhore, the natives put themſelves in a poſition as if they would defend it with their pikes; but the crew making ſigns of friendſhip, and ex⯑poſing their trinkets, ſome of the Indians walk⯑ed into the water; to whom it was hinted, that ſome cocoa-nuts and water would be acceptable; which was no ſooner done, than they fetched a ſmall quantity of each, which they ventured to bring to the boats, and received ſome nails and other trifles in exchange. While they were dealing, one of the Indians ſtole a ſilk handker⯑chief [71] with its contents, but the thief could by no means be diſcovered.

The next morning the boats were again diſ⯑patched, with orders to land, if they could do it without offence to the natives. As they ap⯑proached the ſhore, they obſerved ſeven large canoes, each with two maſts, laying ready for the Indians to embark in them: theſe having made ſigns to the crew to proceed farther, and this being done, the Indians embarked, and ſailed weſtward, being joined by two canoes at another part of the iſland. Theſe canoes, two of which were laſhed together, appeared to be 30 feet in length, four in breadth, and three in depth. The people had long black hair hang⯑ing over their ſhoulders, were of a dark com⯑plexion, and of the middle ſize. They were dreſſed in a kind of matting made faſt round the middle; and it was remarked, that the wo⯑men were beautiful, and the men juſtly pro⯑portioned.

The Lieutenant being again ſent on ſhore, the Captain commanded him to take poſſeſſion of the iſland in the king's name, and to call it QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S ISLAND. The boats re⯑turned loaded with cocoa-nuts and ſcurvy graſs, after having found two wells of excellent water. Proviſions for a week were now allotted for a mate and twenty men, who were left on ſhore to fill water; the ſick were landed for the benefit of the air; and a number of hands were appoint⯑ed [72] to climb the cocoa-trees, and gather the nuts.

On the 10th the water was brought on board the ſhip, but the cocoa-nuts, and vegetables which the cutter was bringing off, were loſt by the rolling of the waves, which almoſt filled her with water. On this iſland were found ſeve⯑ral tools, reſembling adzes, awls and chiſſels, which were formed of ſhells and ſtones. The dead bodies were not buried, but left to decay above ground, under a kind of canopy.

The ſhip ſailed this day, after taking poſſeſ⯑ſion of the iſlands for the king; in teſtimony of which they left a flag flying, and carved his majeſty's name on a piece of wood, and on the bark of ſeveral trees. For the uſe of the na⯑tives they left ſhillings, ſixpences, halfpence, bottles, nails, hatchets, and other things. It ſhould be remarked that, on this iſland, they found the very people who had fled from Queen Charlotte's Iſland, with ſeveral others, in the whole near one hundred. It lies in 19 degrees 20 minutes ſouth latitude, and 138 degrees 30 minutes weſt longitude; and received the name of EGMONT ISLAND.

On the 11th they obſerved about ſixteen per⯑ſons on an iſland which was called GLOUCESTER ISLAND; but, as it was ſurrounded with rocks and breakers, they did not attempt to land. This day they likewiſe diſcovered another, which was called CUMBERLAND ISLAND; and, on the [73] day following, a third, which received the name of PRINCE WILLIAM HENRY'S ISLAND.

On the 17th they again diſcovered land, and at ten at night ſaw a light, which convinced them that it was inhabited; and remarked, that there was plenty of cocoa-trees, a certain indi⯑cation that there was no want of water.

The day following an officer was ſent to the ſhore, with inſtructions to exchange ſome toys for ſuch things as the iſland produced. He ſaw a great number of the people, but could find no place in which the ſhip might anchor. Some of the Indians, who had white ſticks in their hands, appeared to have an authority over the reſt. While the Lieutenant was trafficking with them, an Indian diving into the water ſeized the grappling of the boat, while his compa⯑nions on the ſhore laid hold of the rope by which ſhe was faſtened, and attempted to draw her into the ſurf: but their endeavours were fruſtrated by the firing of a muſket, on which all parties let go their hold. Theſe Indians were dreſſed in a kind of cloth, a piece of which was brought to the ſhip.

From the number of the people ſeen, and their having ſome large double canoes on the ſhore, it was thought that there were larger iſlands at no great diſtance: the Captain, there⯑fore, having named this place OSNABURGH ISLAND, made ſail, and having ſoon diſcovered [74] high land, came to an anchor, becauſe the wea⯑ther was very foggy.

Early the next morning they ſaw land, diſ⯑tant 4 or 5 leagues; but after having ſailed to⯑wards it ſome time, thought it prudent again to anchor, on account of the thickneſs of the fog: but it no ſooner cleared away, than they found the ſhip encompaſſed by hundreds of ca⯑noes, in which were many hundreds of people. Having approached the ſhip, they behold it with wonder, and talked with great earneſtneſs. Some baubles were now ſhewn them, and ſigns were made for them to come on board, on which they rowed the canoes towards each other, and a general conſultation took place; at the concluſion of which they all ſurrounded the ſhip with an appearance of friendſhip, and one of them delivered an oration, at the concluſion of which he threw into the ſea the branch of a plantain-tree which he had held in his hand. This being done, a young Indian, of more ap⯑parent courage than the reſt, ventured on board the ſhip. The Captain would have given him ſome baubles, but he refuſed the acceptance of them till thoſe in the canoes came a-longſide, and, having held a conſultation, threw on board ſeveral branches of the plantain-tree. Others now ventured on board; but it was remarked, that they all got into the ſhip at ſome improper part, not one of them, even by accident, find⯑ing the right place of [...]cent.

[75]A goat belonging to the ſhip having ran his horns againſt the back of one of the Indians, he looked round with ſurprize, and ſeeing the animal ready to renew the attack, he ſprang over the ſhip's ſide, and was inſtantly followed by all his countrymen. Their terror, however, ſoon ſubſided, and they returned to the ſhip; and the ſheep, hogs and poultry being ſhewn them, they intimated that they poſſeſſed the two latter ſpecies. The Captain now gave them nails and other trifles, and made ſigns that he wanted hogs, fowls and fruit; but they could not comprehend him. They were detected in ſeveral attempts to take away any thing they could lay hold of; but one of them, at length, jumped overboard with a laced hat ſnatched from one of the officers.

The inner parts of the iſland abound in hills cloathed with timber trees, above them are high peaks, from which large rivers deſcend to the ſea. The houſes, when ſeen at a diſtance, reſemble a barn, having no ſhelter but a roof: the land towards the ſea is level, and produces the cocoa-nut, with variety of other fruits; and the face of the whole country is pictureſque beyond deſcription.

They now ſailed along the ſhore, while the canoes, which could not keep pace with them, made towards the land. In the afternoon the ſhip brought to, and the boats being ſent to ſound a bay that promiſed good anchorage, the [76] Indian canoes flocked round them. The Cap⯑tain, apprehenſive that their deſigns were hoſ⯑tile, made a ſignal for the boats to return to the ſhip, and fired a gun over the heads of the In⯑dians. Though they were frightened at the report, they attempted to prevent the return of the cutter, but ſhe eaſily out-ſailed them. This being obſerved by ſome canoes in a different ſta⯑tion, they intercepted her, and wounded ſome of her people with ſtones, which occaſioned the firing a muſket, and ſome ſhot were lodged in the ſhoulder of the man who began the at⯑tack; which the Indians obſerving, they all made off with the utmoſt precipitation.

The boats having reached the ſhip, prepara⯑tions were made for ſailing; but a large canoe being obſerved to make towards her at a great rate, it was reſolved to wait the event of her arrival; on which an Indian, making a ſpeech, threw a plantain-branch on board, and the Cap⯑tain returned the compliment of peace, by giv⯑ing them a branch, which had been left on board by the other Indians: ſome toys being likewiſe given them, they departed with much ſeeming ſatisfaction.

They now ſailed; and the next morning were off a peak of land which was almoſt covered with the natives and their houſes. On the 21ſt the ſhip came to an anchor, and ſeveral canoes came a-longſide of her, bringing a large quan⯑tity of fruit, with fowls and hogs, for which [77] they received nails and toys in exchange. The boats having been ſent to ſound along the coaſt, were followed by large double canoes, three of which ran at the cutter, ſtaved in her quarter, and otherwiſe damaged her; the Indians, at the ſame time, armed with clubs, endeavouring to board her. The crew now fired, and wound⯑ing one man dangerouſly, and killing another, they both fell into the ſea, whither their com⯑panions dived after them, and got them into the canoe. They now tried if they could ſtand or ſit; but as the one was quite dead, they laid him at the bottom of the canoe; and the wound⯑ed man was ſupported in a ſitting poſture. The ſhips boats now kept on their way, while ſome of the canoes went aſhore, and others returned to the ſhip to renew their merchandize.

While the boats continued out in ſearch of ſoundings, the natives ſwam off to them with water and fruit. The women were particularly urgent for the ſailors to land, and, pulling off all their cloaths, gave hints, of the moſt inde⯑licate nature, how acceptable their company would be.

The boats being ſent on ſhore with ſome ſmall caſks to get water, the Indians filled two of them, and kept all the reſt for their trouble. When the boats came off, the ſhore was crouded with thouſands of men, women, and children. During this time ſeveral canoes remained a-longſide the ſhip; but the Captain would not [78] permit a ſingle Indian to go on board, as there was no guarding againſt their artful diſpoſition.

On the 22d the natives brought hogs, poul⯑try, and fruit to the ſhip, which they bartered for knives and other things; ſo that the whole crew was ſupplied with meat for two days, by means of this traffick. The boats having been this day ſent for water, every inducement was uſed by the inhabitants to perſuade them to land: and the behaviour of the women was ſtill more laſcivious than before. Having procured a ſmall quantity of water, the boats put off; on which the women ſhouted aloud, pelted them with apples and bananas, and ſhewed every mark of contempt and deteſtation.

The ſhip made ſail the day following, with intention to anchor off the watering-place; but the man at the maſt-head diſcovering a bay a few miles to the leeward, they immediately ſtood for it. The boats, which were a-head, making a ſignal for anchorage, they prepared to bring to; but when the ſhip had almoſt reached the boats, ſhe ſuddenly ſtruck, and her head re⯑mained immoveably fixed on a coral rock; in which ſituation ſhe remained near an hour, when ſhe was happily relieved by a breeze from the ſhore. During the whole time that ſhe was in danger of being wrecked, ſhe was encompaſſed by hundreds of Indians in their canoes; but not one of them attempted to board her. The [79] ſhip was now piloted round a reef, into an har⯑bour, where ſhe moored.

The Maſter was then ſent to found the bay, and found ſafe anchorage in every part of it. In the mean time ſome ſmall canoes brought proviſions on board; but as the ſhore was croud⯑ed with large canoes, filled with men, the Cap⯑tain loaded and primed his guns, ſupplied his boats with muſquetoons, and kept a number of the men conſtantly under arms.

On the 24th the ſhip ſailed up the harbour, and was followed by many canoes, bringing proviſions, which were exchanged for nails, knives, &c. In the evening a number of very large canoes advanced, laden with ſtones; on which the Captain ordered the ſtricteſt watch to be kept. At length ſome canoes came off, with a number of women on board, who, being brought almoſt under the ſhip, began to prac⯑tiſe thoſe arts of indelicacy already mentioned. During this ſingular exhibition the large canoes came cloſe round the ſhip; ſome of the Indians playing on a kind of flute, others ſinging, and the reſt blowing a ſort of ſhells. Soon after a large canoe advanced, in which was an awning, on the top of which ſat one of the natives, holding ſome yellow and red feathers in his hand. The Captain having conſented to his coming a-longſide, he delivered the feathers; and while a preſent was preparing for him, he put back from the ſhip, and threw the branch [80] of a cocoa-tree in the air. This was, doubtleſs, the ſignal for an onſet; for there was an inſtant ſhout from all the canoes, which, approaching the ſhip, threw vollies of ſtones into every part of her. On this two guns, loaded with ſmall ſhot, were fired, and the people on guard diſ⯑charged their muſkets. The number of Indians now round the ſhip were full two thouſand; and though they were at firſt diſconcerted, they ſoon recovered their ſpirits, and renewed the attack. Thouſands of the Indians were now obſerved on ſhore, embarking as faſt as the canoes could bring them off: orders were therefore given for firing the cannon, ſome of which were brought to bear upon the ſhore. This firing put a ſtop to all hoſtilities, on the part of the Indians, for a ſmall time: but the ſcattered canoes ſoon got together again, and, having hoiſted white ſtream⯑ers, advanced, and threw ſtones of two pounds weight from ſlings; by which a number of the ſeamen were wounded. At this time ſeveral canoes approached the bow of the ſhip, from whence no ſhot had been yet diſcharged. In one of theſe was an Indian, who appeared to have an authority over the reſt: a gun was therefore levelled at his canoe, the ſhot of which ſplit it in two pieces. This put an end to the conteſt; the canoes rowed off with the utmoſt ſpeed, and the people on ſhore ran and concealed them⯑ſelves behind the hills.

[81]The Captain now failed for his intended an⯑choring-place, and moored the ſhip within a ſmall diſtance of a fine river. The next morn⯑ing ſome perſons, who had been ſent to ſurvey the ſhore, returned with an account that the ri⯑ver produced freſh water, and that there was not a ſingle canoe to be ſeen.

This day a Lieutenant was diſpatched, with all the boats manned and armed, and a number of marines, with orders to land under cover of the ſhip and boats; which being effected, he turned a piece of turf, and having hoiſted a pendant on a ſtaff, he took poſſeſſion of the place, for his Sovereign, by the name of KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S ISLAND. He then mixed ſome rum with the river water, and every per⯑ſon preſent drank the King's health. At this time the Lieutenant obſerved two old men on the oppoſite ſide of the river, who ſeemed much terrified, and aſſumed a poſture of ſupplication. Signs were made for them to croſs the river, which one of them having done, he crawled on his hands and knees towards the Lieutenant; who, ſhewing him ſome ſtones that had been thrown at the ſhip, hinted that the Indians ſhould receive no harm if they were not the ag⯑greſſors. Some hatchets were now produced, to intimate that they wiſhed to barter for pro⯑viſions; and ſome trifling matters were given to the Indian, who teſtified his joy and gratitude by dancing round the pendant. He then plucked [82] ſome branches of trees, which he laid on the ground, and retreated; but ſoon returning with ſeveral others, they advanced towards the pen⯑dant, which happening to be ſhaken by the wind, they ran back with evident ſigns of aſ⯑toniſhment. They ſoon recovered from their ſurprize, and procuring two hogs, laid them down at the foot of the flag-ſtaff, and danced round it; after which they put the hogs into a canoe, and the old Indian rowed it to the ſhip: when he came a-longſide he delivered a ſerious oration, in the courſe of which he handed up a number of plantain-leaves, one at a time: this being done, he rowed back, after refuſing ſe⯑veral preſents that had been offered him.

In the night a number of lights were ſeen on the coaſt, and the noiſe of drums and other in⯑ſtruments of muſic was heard. Soon after day⯑light it was obſerved that the Indians had left the coaſt, and taken away the pendant. This day, while a party was engaged in filling the water caſks, the old man, who had been ſeen the day before, croſſed the river, and brought with him ſome fowls and fruit. The Captain, who was indiſpoſed on board the ſhip, employed himſelf in remarking what was going forward on ſhore; and, by the help of glaſſes, he ſaw many of the Indians creeping behind the buſhes towards the watering-place, while incredible numbers were coming through the woods, and a large party deſcending a hill, all advancing to the ſame [83] ſpot; and two diviſions of canoes were mak⯑ing round the oppoſite points of the bay. The Lieutenant, ſeeing his danger, got his party on board the boats; but not before he had ſent the old Indian to prevail on the others to keep at a proper diſtance, as he wanted only water:—but this had no effect; and, as ſoon as the crews were in the boats, the natives poſſeſſed themſelves of the caſks as lawful prize. Thoſe at ſome diſtance from the watering-place puſhed forward with all ſpeed, keeping pace with the canoes, which were rowed at an extraordinary rate; while a great number of women and chil⯑dren were ſeated on a hill, from whence they could command a view of all that paſſed.

When the canoes came near that part of the bay where the ſhip rode, they took in many people from the ſhore, who were laden with bags filled with ſtones. All the canoes now ap⯑proached the ſhip; on which the Captain gave orders to fire on the firſt cluſter of them that ſhould aſſemble; this had ſuch an effect, that they all rowed off with the utmoſt ſpeed. They then fired into ſeveral parts of the wood, on which the Indians all fled to the hill where the women and children were; ſo that ſeveral thou⯑ſands were now on that ſpot. The Captain be⯑ing reſolved to make this action deciſive, fired towards the hill; and two balls falling near a ſpot where many of theſe poor Indians had ſta⯑tioned [84] themſelves, they were all terrified beyond deſcr [...]ption, and diſappeared in an inſtant.

When this diſagreeable ſkirmiſh was end⯑ed, the boats were hoiſted out, and a ſtrong guard ſent with the carpenters, who had orders to deſtroy every canoe they could find; and this ſervice was performed with ſuch alacrity, that in a few hours a great number of theſe veſſels were cut in pieces, ſeveral of which were of the largeſt ſize. Some fruit, fowls, and hogs, were found in a few of the ſmalleſt; but the reſt were laden with ſtones and ſlings.

It was not long before a ſmall party of In⯑dians advanced to the ſea-ſhore, and ſticking up ſome ſmall branches of trees, went back to the woods: but they came again repeatedly, bring⯑ing with them a quantity of the cloth they wear, and ſome dogs and hogs with their legs tied; all which they laid on the ſhore, making ſigns to the ſailors to take them. A boat being ſent on ſhore, the hogs were conveyed on board, but the other articles left. In return for theſe pre⯑ſents, ſeveral hatchets and nails were left on the beach, and ſigns made to ſome of the Indians within ſight to come and take them; which they neglected to do for ſome time, till the Cap⯑tain having ſent for the cloth, the natives then accepted his preſents with apparent ſatisfaction.

On the 27th, while a party was getting water, the old man before-mentioned appeared on the oppoſite ſide of the river; and having ha⯑rangued [85] them ſome time, he came over; when the officer, pointing to the bags and ſtones which had been brought down, tried to convince him that his countrymen had injured the Engliſh, who had acted only on the defenſive. His meaning ſeemed to be well underſtood, but the old Indian could not admit the force of his ar⯑guments:—on the contrary, he expreſſed very forcibly, by his countenance, voice, and ac⯑tions, the high ſenſe he had of the injury of⯑fered his unhappy friends. At length a recon⯑ciliation took place; the old man ſhook hands with, and accepted ſome preſents from the Lieutenant, who tried to convince him of his good-will; hinted that the natives ſhould not appear but in ſmall parties, and that while the boats crews were on one ſide of the river they ſhould remain on the other. The old man de⯑parted with evident ſigns of being content with theſe terms; and in a few hours the natives be⯑gan a traffic, which proved highly advantageous to the ſhip's company.

The ſick were now ſent on ſhore, and lodged in a tent near the watering-place, under the care of the Surgeon. This gentleman having ſnot a wild-duck, it dropped near ſome Indians on the oppoſite ſide of the river, who were ſo terrified that they inſtantly fled, but ſtopping within a ſhort ſpace, he prevailed on one of them to bring over the duck, which he at length com⯑plied with, and laid it at the Surgeon's feet, [86] while his looks expreſſed the fear and agitation of his mind. At a ſecond ſhot three ducks were killed; which gave the natives ſuch an idea of the effects of a gun, that to this circumſtance is chiefly attributed the regularity of their be⯑haviour in all their tranſactions, while the En⯑gliſh remained among them.

Orders were now iſſued, that the gunner ſhould tranſact all matters of trade between the Indians and the ſailors, with a view to prevent pilfering and quarrelling: the natives, indeed, would ſometimes ſteal a trifle, but the very ſight of a gun procured inſtant reſtitution of it. The old Indian, having been attached to the Engliſh, was very uſeful in the recovery of the ſtolen goods. One day an Indian ſwam over the river, and took a hatchet, on which the gunner made pre⯑parations as if he would go in ſearch of the thief; but this being intimated to the old man, he immediately went after the loſt goods, which he brought back. The gunner now demanded that the culprit ſhould alſo be produced, and the old Indian complied, though much againſt his inclination. The priſoner, who had com⯑mitted other robberies, was ſent on board the ſhip whence the Captain diſcharged him, with⯑out farther puniſhment than the terror ariſing from his ſituation. His countrymen were tranſ⯑ported with joy to ſee him come back; and he was conducted into the woods, amidſt the ap⯑plauſive ſhouts of his friends. This man had [87] the gratitude to bring a roaſted hog and ſome bread fruit to the gunner next day, as an ac⯑knowledgment for the lenity ſhewn him.

The Captain, Firſt Lieutenant, and Purſer, were at this time very ill; ſo that the care of the veſſel, and the ſuperintendance of the ſick, were committed to the Second Lieutenant, who diſcharged his duty with ſuch zeal and fidelity, that all was order and decorum. Fruit, fowls, and freſh pork, were procured in ſuch plenty, that at the end of fourteen days almoſt every man had perfectly recovered his health.

On the 29th a piece of ſaltpetre, of the ſize of a ſmall egg, was found on ſhore; but whether it had been brought from the ſhip, or not, could not be learnt, after the moſt diligent enquiry; but no other piece was found on the iſland.

On the 2d of July they began to want fruit and freſh meat, owing to the abſence of the old Indian; but they had ſtill a ſufficient ſupply for the ſick. On the 3d the ſhip's bottom was ex⯑amined, when its condition was nearly the ſame as when ſhe left England. This day a ſhark was caught, which proved an acceptable pre⯑ſent to the Indians.

The old Indian, who had viſited the interior parts of the iſland, in queſt of proviſions, re⯑turned on the 5th, and brought with him a roaſted hog as a preſent for the Captain, who, in return, enriched him by putting him in poſ⯑ſeſſion of a looking-glaſs, an iron pot, &c. His [88] return was ſoon followed by ſome of the na⯑tives who had never yet viſited the market; theſe brought ſome hogs that were larger than any yet purchaſed.

A traffick of a ſingular kind was now eſta⯑bliſhed between the Indian girls and the ſailors. The price of a lady's favour was a nail or two; but as the tars could not always get at the nails, they drew them out from ſeveral parts of the ſhip; nor could a ſingle offender be diſcovered by the ſtricteſt enquiry. The damage done to the ſhip could be eaſily repaired; but one ill conſequence aroſe from this traffick, which could not have been foreſeen: for on the gunner's of⯑fering ſmall nails for hogs, the Indians produced large ſpikes, demanding ſuch as thoſe. Some of the men made uſe of a ſingular device to gratify their paſſions; for, when they could procure no more nails, they cut lead into the ſhape of nails, and paſſed it as ſterling on their unſuſpecting fair ones. When the Indians diſ⯑covered the fraud, they demanded nails for the lead; but this juſt demand could not be granted, becauſe it would have promoted the ſtealing of lead, and thereby injured the traffic with iron.

The ſailors, in conſequence of their connec⯑tion with the women, became ſo impatient of controul, that the Captain ordered the arti⯑cles of war to be read, to awe them into obe⯑dience; and a Corporal of marines was ſeverely [89] puniſhed, for ſtriking the maſter at arms. The Captain's health being now nearly reſtored, he went in his boat to ſurvey the iſland, which he found extremely delightful, and every where well peopled.

On the 8th the wood-cutters were entertained in a friendly manner by ſome Indians, who ſeemed to be of a rank above thoſe they had yet ſeen: and ſome of theſe viſiting the Cap⯑tain, he laid before them a thirty-ſix ſhilling piece, a guinea, a crown-piece, a dollar, ſome ſhillings, new halfpence, and two large nails; and having intimated that they might take their choice, they eagerly ſeized the nails, and then took a few halfpence; but left all the other pieces untouched.

The Indians now refuſed to ſupply the mar⯑ket, unleſs they could get large nails in ex⯑change: the Captain therefore ordered the ſhip to be ſearched, when it was found that almoſt all the hammock-nails were ſtolen, and great numbers drawn from different places: on which every man was ordered before the Captain, who told them, that not a man ſhould go on ſhore till the thieves were diſcovered; but no good conſequence aroſe from his threats.

Three days after this, the gunner conducted to the ſhip a lady of a portly figure and agree⯑able face, whoſe age ſeemed to be upwards of forty. This lady had but lately arrived in that part of the iſland; and the gunner, obſerving [90] that ſhe ſeemed to have great authority, pre⯑ſented her with ſome toys; on which ſhe invited him to her houſe, and gave him ſome fine hogs. She was afterwards taken on board at her own deſire, where her whole behaviour indicated the woman of fine ſenſe and ſuperior rank. The Captain preſented her with a looking-glaſs and ſome toys, and gave her a handſome blue man⯑tle, which he tied round her with ribbands.

Having intimated that ſhe ſhould be glad to ſee the Captain on ſhore, he ſignified his inten⯑tion of viſiting her on the following day. Ac⯑cordingly on Sunday the 12th, Captain Wallis went on ſhore, where he was met by his fair friend, who was attended by a numerous reti⯑nue, ſome of whom ſhe directed to carry the Captain, and others who had been ill, over the river, and thence to her habitation: the pro⯑ceſſion was cloſed by a guard of marines and ſeamen. As they advanced, great numbers of Indians crowded to ſee them; but, on a ſlight motion of her hand, they made ample room for the proceſſion to paſs.

Having come near her habitation, many per⯑ſons of both ſexes advanced to meet her, whom ſhe cauſed to kiſs the Captain's hand, while ſhe ſignified that they were related to her. Her houſe was above 320 feet in length, and about 40 in breadth. The roof, which was covered with the leaves of the palm-tree, was ſupported by a row of pillars on each ſide, and another in the middle. The higheſt part of the thatch [91] on the inſide was about 30 feet from the ground, and the ſpace between the ſides of the building and the edge of the roof being 12 feet, was left entirely open.

The Captain, Lieutenant, and Purſer, be⯑ing ſeated, the lady helped four of her fe⯑male attendants to pull off their coats, ſhoes, and ſtockings; which being aukwardly per⯑formed, the girls ſmoothed down the ſkin, and rubbed it lightly with their hands for more than half an hour; and the gentlemen received great benefit from the operation. The Surgeon, being heated with walking, having pulled off his wig, one of the Indians ſcreamed out; the eyes of the whole company were in⯑ſtantly fixed on the miraculous ſight, and they remained ſome time in the moſt profound aſto⯑niſhment. When they had recovered from their ſurprize, the lady ordered ſeveral bales of cloth, the produce of the iſland, to be brought out, in which ſhe dreſſed the Captain and all his at⯑tendants. Orders had been given, that the Cap⯑tain ſhould be carried as before; but as he choſe to walk, ſhe took hold of his arm, and when they came near any wet or dirty places, ſhe lift⯑ed him over, with as much eaſe as a man would a child. She attended them to the ſhore, when ſhe took her leave; having preſented the Cap⯑tain with a fine ſow, big with young.

On the following day the gunner being diſ⯑patched to this lady, with a compliment of bill⯑hooks, [92] hatchets, &c. found her entertaining many hundreds of the natives, who were ſeated in order round her habitation. A meſs was or⯑dered for the gunner, who reported, that it was of an agreeable flavour, and ſeemed to be a compound of fowls and apples, ſhred in ſmall pieces, and mixed with ſalt-water. The lady herſelf diſtributed the proviſions, which were ſerved in cocoa-nut ſhells, and thoſe ſhells brought in trays by her ſervants. When the company were all fed, the lady took her ſeat ſomewhat above the reſt, and was fed by two female ſervants, one ſtanding on each ſide of her. She received the Captain's preſents with evident ſigns of ſatisfaction.

From this period the crew was much better ſupplied with refreſhments, hogs and fowls be⯑ing brought to the market daily; but they could not be purchaſed at the former prices, owing to the commerce before-mentioned, between the ſailors and the Indian women: the Captain therefore ordered, that not one woman ſhould be permitted to come over the river, and that no man ſhould leave the ſhip till he had firſt been ſearched.

The gunner, who was on ſhore on the 14th, met with the following affecting incident. He ſaw an old woman, on the oppoſite ſide of the river, weeping in a moſt lamentable manner. When ſhe found he regarded her diſtreſs, ſhe ſent a youth to him, who, having made a long [93] oration, laid a branch of plantain at his feet, and then retired, and brought over the woman and two hogs. The youth now made a ſtill longer ſpeech, after the concluſion of which this un⯑fortunate woman made the gunner underſtand, that when the Engliſh fired on her countrymen, her huſband and three of her ſons had been kil⯑led. Her agitation of mind was ſuch, that be⯑fore ſhe had finiſhed her tale, ſhe ſunk ſpeechleſs to the ground; nor were two lads, who attended her, in a much better ſituation. The gunner pitied her diſtreſs, and endeavoured to comfort her. At length ſhe became ſomewhat calmer, offered him her hand, and directed the hogs to be given him: in return he would have given her much more than their value, but ſhe would not take the moſt trifling article.

On the 15th a large party, in all the boats, rowed round part of the iſland, in order to take a view of it, and purchaſe proviſions. They return⯑ed with a number of hogs and fowls, and ſome plantains and cocoa-nuts. The iſland was found to be every where very pleaſant, and to abound with various neceſſaries of life. Great numbers of canoes were ſeen, and ſeveral not quite built. The tools of the natives were formed of bones, ſhells, and ſtones. Dogs and hogs were the only four-footed beaſts. The inhabitants ate all their meat either roaſted or baked, having no veſſel in which water could be boiled; nor, in⯑deed, did they ſeem to have the leaſt idea that [94] water could be heated by fire; this will be proved by the following circumſtance. While the lady ſo frequently mentioned was at break⯑faſt on board the ſhip, a perſon that attended her, having obſerved the cock of an urn turned to fill the tea-pot, he alſo turned the cock, and the ſcalding water falling on his hand, he cried out, and danced about the cabin, while the other Indians gazed at him with terror and ſur⯑prize.

On the 17th Captain Wallis received another viſit from the lady; (whom he calls his Queen) and this day plenty of refreſhments were pur⯑chaſed of ſome Indians, whom they had never dealt with before. The Queen repeated her viſit on the following day, and gave the Captain two hogs: and the Maſter being ſent to attend her home, ſhe clothed him in the dreſs of the coun⯑try, as ſhe had done the Captain and his retinue. On the 19th a great number of hogs and pigs, with fowls and fruits in the greateſt abundance, were purchaſed and ſent on board by the gun⯑ner. The next day one of the ſailors was ſen⯑tenced to run the gauntlet three times round the deck, while the crew whipped him with nettles, for drawing nails from the ſhip; but the tars were ſo well diſpoſed to ſpare a brother in ini⯑quity, that his puniſhment was rather nominal than real: this gave riſe to an order, that no perſon ſhould go on ſhore but thoſe appointed to procure wood and water.

[95]Captain Wallis's Queen paid him another vi⯑ſit on the 21ſt, and preſented him with ſome hogs. On her departure ſhe invited the Captain to her houſe, who, taking ſome officers with him, attended her home. On their arrival, ſhe tied round their hats ſome wreaths of plaited hair, and diſtinguiſhed the Captain's by the ad⯑ditional ornament of a tuft of feathers of dif⯑ferent colours. When they returned ſhe went with them to the water-ſide, and ordered ſome preſents into the boat. Juſt before they put off Mr. Wallis intimated, that he ſhould finally de⯑part in ſeven days; when ſhe made ſigns that he ſhould ſtay twenty: but his reſolution to depart within the firſt-mentioned time being repeated, ſhe wept inceſſantly for a conſiderable time.

By the 22d the ſhip was ſo well ſtored with hogs and fowls that the deck was covered; but, as they would eat little elſe than fruit, they were killed faſter than was otherwiſe intended. A boar and ſow of this breed were brought to England, and given to Mr. Stephens, ſecretary of the admiralty; the former of which was living when this account was printed, but the latter died in farrowing.

On the 24th the Captain preſented his friend, the old Indian, with cloth and other matters; and ſent a variety of things to the Queen, a⯑mong which were a cat with kitten, turkies, geeſe, hens, and various kinds of garden ſeeds; which compliment ſhe returned by a preſent of [96] fruit and hogs. While they remained here they ſowed peas and garden ſeeds, and ſtaid long enough to ſee them come up, and likely to thrive.

The Captain having ſent a party on ſhore on the 25th to examine the country minutely, cauſed a tent to be erected to obſerve an eclipſe of the ſun, and when it was ended, he took his tele⯑ſcope to the Queen's houſe to ſhew her the uſe of it; and her ſurprize is not to be expreſſed, on her beholding ſeveral objects which ſhe was ve⯑ry familiar with, but which were too diſtant to be ſeen by the naked eye. On the concluſion of this mental feaſt, the Captain invited the Queen and her attendants on board the ſhip, judging that no inſult would be offered to the party he had ſent out, while the principle peo⯑ple were in his power. The Queen's attendants ate heartily of an elegant dinner, and drank water only; but the Queen would neither eat nor drink. When the party returned from their excurſion, the Captain gave orders for landing the Queen and her train. She made ſigns to be informed, if he held his reſolution as to the time of his departure; and being anſwered in the affirmative, her tears witneſſed the agitation of her mind.

The following is an account of the tranſac⯑tions and obſervations of the party which was ſent out this day.—When they firſt landed they called on the old Indian, and taking him with [97] them, they walked ſome on each ſide of the river about two miles, obſerving that the ſoil was blackiſh and rich, and that on the borders of the valley, through which the river flowed, were many houſes with gardens walled in, and plenty of fruit, hogs, and fowls. They now all walked on one ſide, as the ground roſe nearly perpendicular on the other. Channels were cut in many places, to conduct the water from the hills to the gardens and plantations, and the ground being fenced off had a pleaſing effect to the eye. There was good graſs, but no under⯑wood beneath the trees: the cocoa-nut and plantain grew on level ground; while the bread⯑fruit and apple trees were ſet in rows on the ſides of the hills.

The ſtream now became a perfect meander, and the crags of mountains which roſe on its borders hung over the heads of our travellers. After walking four miles, they ſat down to breakfaſt under an apple-tree, when they were alarmed by the ſhouts of a great number of the natives. They would have had recourſe to their arms, but the old Indian making ſigns for them to ſit ſtill, went to his countrymen, who be⯑came at once ſilent, and inſtantly retired: but they ſoon returned with variety of refreſhments, which the old Indian divided among our tra⯑vellers; and for which the Lieutenant gave the natives ſome buttons, and other trifles.

[98]They then proceeded, and looked diligently for metals and ores, in every place likely to produce them; but found nothing of any con⯑ſequence. The old Indian growing weary, hint⯑ed, that he ſhould return, having firſt directed his countrymen to clear a paſſage for the travel⯑lers over a mountain. When the old man was gone, the Indians cut branches from the trees, and laid them in a ceremonious manner at the feet of the ſeamen: they then painted themſelves red with the berries of a tree, and ſtained their garments yellow with the bark of another. By the aſſiſtance of the Indians, the moſt difficult parts of the mountain were climbed; and they again refreſhed themſelves on its ſummit, when they ſaw other mountains ſo much above them, that they ſeemed as in a valley.

Towards the ſea the proſpect was inexpreſſi⯑bly beautiful, the ſides of the hills being co⯑vered with trees, and the vallies with graſs; while the whole country was interſperſed with villages. They ſaw but few houſes on the mountains above them, but as ſmoke was ob⯑ſerved in many places, it was conjectured, that the higheſt parts were inhabited. Many ſprings guſhed from the ſides of the mountains, all of which were covered with wood on the ſides, and with fern on the ſummits. The ſoil even on the high lands was rich, and the ſugar-cane grew without cultivation; as did likewiſe ginger and turmerick.

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[99]Having a third time refreſhed themſelves, they deſcended towards the ſhip, occaſionally deviating from the direct way, tempted, by the pleaſant ſituation of ſeveral houſes, the inhabi⯑tants of which entertained them in the moſt hoſ⯑pitable manner. They ſaw parrots, parro⯑quets, green doves, and ducks. The Lieute⯑nant planted the ſtones of cherries, peaches and plums, ſeveral kinds of garden-ſeeds, and oranges, lemons and limes. In the afternoon they reſted on a delightful ſpot, where the inha⯑bitants dreſſed them two hogs and ſeveral fowls. Here they ſtaid till the evening, when they re⯑warded the diligence of their guides, and re⯑paired to the ſhip.

On the 26th the Queen viſited the Captain, with her uſual preſents; and on this day they diſcontinued taking in wood and water, and pre⯑pared for ſailing. A greater number of Indians now came to the ſea-ſhore than they had ever yet ſeen; and of theſe, ſeveral appeared to be per⯑ſons of conſequence. In the afternoon the Queen viſited captain Wallis, and ſollicited him to remain ten days longer; but being informed that he ſhould certainly ſail on the following day, ſhe burſt into tears. She now demanded when he would come again, and was told in 50 days. She remained on board till evening, when being informed that the boat waited for her, ſhe wept with more violence than ſhe had yet done. At length this affectionate creature [100] went over the ſhip's ſide, as did the old Indian who had been ſo ſerviceable to the crew. This man had ſignified, that his ſon ſhould ſail with the Captain; but when the time of departure came, the youth was not to be found; and it was thought, that parental affection had got the better of the old man's promiſe.

Early the next morning two boats were ſent to fill a few caſks of water; but the officer, alarmed at finding the ſhore crouded with peo⯑ple, was about to return. This brought the Queen forward, who commanded the Indians to retire to the oppoſite ſide of the river, and then made ſigns for the boats to land. While the water was filling, ſhe ordered ſome preſents into the boat, and entreated to go once more to the ſhip; but the officer having it in charge not to bring off a ſingle native, ſhe ordered her double canoe out, and was followed by many others. When ſhe had been on board, weep⯑ing bitterly, for an hour, advantage was taken of a breeze, and the ſhip got under ſail. She now tenderly embraced the Captain and Offi⯑cers, and left the ſhip; but the wind falling, the canoes all put back, and once more reached the ſhip, to which the Queen's being made faſt, ſhe advanced to the bow of the canoe, and wept inceſſantly. The Captain preſented her with ſeveral articles of uſe and ornament, which ſhe received in ſilent ſorrow. After ſome time a breeze ſpringing up, the Queen and her attend⯑ants [101] took their final leave, with many tears, which drew correſponding tears from the eyes of our countrymen.

The place where the ſhip had lain was called PORT ROYAL HARBOUR, and is ſituated in 17 degrees 30 minutes ſouth-longitude, and 150 degrees weſt-latitude.

Captain Wallis now proceeds to give a more accurate account of the inhabitants of Ota⯑heite, with their cuſtoms, manners, &c.—The men are from five feet ſeven to ten inches high, well proportioned, alert, and of good counte⯑nances. The women from five feet to five and a half, handſome in general, but ſome of them as beautiful as can be imagined. The complexion of thoſe men who are much on the water is rather red; but the natural colour of them all is the tawny. They are remarkably diſ⯑tinguiſhed from all the other natives of Aſia, Africa, and America, by the colours of their hair; for that of the former is univerſally black, while the people of Otaheite have the various colours of black, brown, red and flaxen; moſt of the children having the latter: when left looſe, it has a ſtrong natural curl, but it is uſually worn tied in two bunches, one on each ſide the head, or in a ſingle bunch in the mid⯑dle. They anoint the head with the oil of the cocoa-nut, mixed with a root of a fragrant ſmell.

[102]It has been mentioned, that the ladies do not conſider chaſtity as a virtue; but the price of their favours is always proportioned to their charms. When a man offered a girl to the ca⯑reſſes of a ſailor, he ſhewed a ſtick of the ſize of the nail that was to purchaſe her company.

Their cloaths are formed of two pieces of cloth, not unlike coarſe China paper, in one of which a hole is made for the head to paſs thro', and this hangs to the middle of the leg; the other piece is wrapped round the body, and the whole forms an elegant drapery. This cloth is compoſed of the inner bark of a tree. They adorn them⯑ſelves with pearls, ſhells, feathers and flowers. They mark the hinder part of the thighs and loins of both ſexes with black lines in different forms; which is done by ſtriking the teeth of an inſtrument through the ſkin, and rubbing ſoot mixed with oil into the holes: ſome few men, who appeared to be perſons of diſtinc⯑tion, had their legs marked; but neither boys nor girls are marked till after they are twelve years old.

An Indian who attended the Queen appear⯑ing to be fond of imitating the Engliſh, was preſented with a ſuit of the Lieutenant's cloaths, which became him extremely well. As it was ſhoal-water at the landing-place, the Engliſh officers were carried on ſhore; and this man, unwilling to be out of the faſhion, was carried in the ſame manner by the Indians. In his at⯑tempt [103] to uſe a knife and fork at firſt, his hand al⯑ways went to his mouth, while the food remain⯑ed ſtuck on the end of the fork.

Beſides the articles already mentioned, theſe people eat the fleſh of dogs. Rats abound on the iſland, but are not eaten. The river pro⯑duces parrot-fiſh, groopers, cray-fiſh and mul⯑let, and conchs and muſcles are found on the rocks: the inhabitants uſe nets, and hooks and lines.

There is ſomething ſingular in their way of dreſſing their food: having produced a fire by rubbing two pieces of dry wood together, they dig a pit, which being paved with ſtones, they make a fire in it. The ſtones being properly heated, they rake away the aſhes, and covering the ſtones with green leaves of the cocoa nut-tree, they put their meat in plantain leaves, and place it in the pit, covering it over with the hot aſhes, on which they lay bread-fruit and yams encloſed in plantain leaves: theſe again they cover with the embers intermixed with the hot ſtones: to this ſucceeds a layer of cocoa-nut leaves, and upon the whole is a covering of earth. In this manner a ſmall hog is dreſſed whole, but a large one is cut in two; and Cap⯑tain Wallis aſſerts, that this method of cookery exceeds every other he has known, the meat being extremely tender, and full of gravy. Their only ſauces are ſalt water and fruit, and their knives are made of ſhells.

[104]They were aſtoniſhed when they firſt ſaw meat boiled in a pot; but the Captain having given iron-pots to the Queen and ſome of her chiefs, they were often uſed; and the old Indian fed on boiled meat almoſt conſtantly. The only liquor they drink is water: they occaſionally pluck and chew a bit of the ſugar-cane; but have no idea of extracting any ſpirit from it.

From the ſcars with which many of theſe people were marked, it ſeems evident, that they ſometimes waged war with each other.—That they have ſkill in ſurgery is evident from the following circumſtance: a ſplinter having got into the foot of one of the ſailors, his meſſ⯑mate tried in vain to extract it with a pen-knife: on this one of the natives, having formed an inſtrument, with his teeth, out of a ſhell, ex⯑tracted the ſplinter in an inſtant; and the old Indian applying a piece of the gum of the ap⯑ple-tree to the wound, the man's foot was quite well in two days.

There are ſeveral ſheds on the iſland, encloſed within a wall, on the outſide of which ſeveral poſts are fixed in the ground, on which are rude reſemblances of men, women, dogs and hogs. The encloſed place is paved with large ſtones, between which the graſs grows. Theſe were ſuppoſed to be burial-places, from the na⯑tives being ſometimes ſeen to enter them with an air of ſolemn ſorrow.—It could not be diſ⯑covered [105] that theſe people had any kind of reli⯑gious worſhip among them.

They have three kinds of canoes—one form⯑ed out of a ſingle tree, in which they go a fiſh⯑ing; a ſecond, made of planks ſewed together, and large enough to hold 20 or 30 men; in which they ſail round the iſland, and come la⯑den home with fruits; and a third ſort, which are not unlike the Venetian gondolas, and uſed when they ſail on parties of pleaſure. In theſe they make a kind of proceſſion two or three times in a week, with their ſtreamers flying, at⯑tended by the ſmall canoes, while hundreds of the natives accompany their motions on the ſhore. On theſe occaſions they put on their beſt cloaths, and while ſome are under a large awn⯑ing, others ſit upon it:—theſe are clothed in red and white; two men in red ſit on the prow of each veſſel; while the rowers and ſteerſmen are in white.

The people of Otaheite uſe bows and arrows, which laſt are headed with a round ſtone. They have likewiſe bludgeons, and ſlings for the throwing of ſtones.

The inhabitants being ſhewn ſome ſmall tur⯑tles, hinted that they had ſome which were much larger; but not one was ſeen by any of the ſhip's crew.

Captain Wallis repreſents this iſland as one of the moſt pleaſant in the univerſe; being bleſſed with a pure air, abounding in wood and her⯑bage, [106] harbouring no venomous animal; and its inhabitants being happy in a conſtant flow of health. The ſouth-eaſt part of the iſland, which produces fruit in vaſt abundance, is bet⯑ter peopled than the ſpot near where the ſhip lay.

When captain Cook, in the Endeavour, vi⯑ſited this iſland, he found the venereal diſeaſe among the natives; which muſt have been con⯑tracted from ſome of the crew under the com⯑mand of M. Bougainville; for not one of cap⯑tain Wallis's men were infected with that diſ⯑order for ſeveral months before and after his arrival at Otaheite.

The Dolphin ſailed from this harbour on the 27th of July 1767, and paſſed the Duke of York's Iſland, the coaſt of which abounds with plantain-trees, cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and ap⯑ple-trees. On the 28th they diſcovered land, which was called SIR CHARLES SAUNDER'S ISLAND. It had a few inhabitants, who lived in ſmall huts; and the cocoa-nut and other trees grew on the ſhore. On the 30th they again made land, which received the name of LORD HOWE'S ISLAND, on which ſmoke was ſeen, but no inhabitants. Their next diſcovery was of ſome dangerous ſhoals, to which captain Wal⯑lis gave the name of the SCILLY ISLANDS.

They now ſteered weſtward till the 13th of Auguſt, when they ſaw two ſmall iſlands, one of which was named KEPPEL'S ISLE, and the other BOSCAWEN'S ISLAND; on the latter of [107] which were ſeveral inhabitants; but they ſteer⯑ed for the former, as its appearance promiſed the moſt convenient anchorage. By the help of glaſſes they now diſcovered the natives on the ſhore; but they did not attempt to anchor that night, on account of ſome breakers at a conſiderable diſtance from the iſland.

The boats being diſpatched to the iſland, brought on board ſome cocoa-nuts and other fruit, and a couple of fowls. The officer re⯑ported, that the inhabitants were not unlike thoſe of Otaheite; that ſome few of them ven⯑tured into the boat, but ſoon jumped out and ſwam back to the iſland. Theſe people were remarkable for having the firſt joint of their lit⯑tle fingers cut off; and they were dreſſed in a ſort of matting.

As there was no convenient watering-place at this iſland, and as the ſhip had received ſome damages that had rendered her unfit to encoun⯑ter a rough ſea, the Captain determined to ſail for Tinian, from thence to Batavia, and ſo to England by the Cape of Good Hope. He therefore paſſed the iſland, which is well inhabi⯑ted, abounds in timber, and is of a circular form.

On the 16th they again diſcovered land, to which the officers gave the name of WALLIS'S ISLAND. The coaſt of this iſland is very rocky, and the trees grow almoſt to the edge of the water. The inhabitants wore no covering but a mat round the waiſt: each man had a very [108] large club, two of which were purchaſed by the boat's crew. Theſe people attempting to ſteal the cutter, by hauling her upon the rocks, a gun was fired cloſe to one of their faces, the report of which ſo terrified them, that they decamped with the utmoſt ſpeed. When the boats were returning to the ſhip, they were im⯑peded by the points of rocks, which being ob⯑ſerved by the Indians, they followed in their canoes till they got into deep water, and then they rowed back.

Captain Wallis remarks, as an extraordinary circumſtance, that although no ſort of metal was ſeen on any of the lately diſcovered iſlands, yet the natives were no ſooner poſſeſſed of a piece of iron than they began to ſharpen it, but did not treat copper or braſs in the ſame manner.

They now ſailed to the north-weſt, and on the 28th obſerved a number of birds flying about the ſhip, one of which they catched. It was web-footed, but in all other reſpects reſem⯑bled a dove. On the 3d of September they ſaw land, which was thought to be two of the Piſcadore Iſlands; and on this day an Indian Proa (a deſcription of which is given in Anſon's Voyage) made towards the ſhip, on which they hoiſted Spaniſh Colours; but ſhe came no near⯑er than within about two miles. On the 7th and 9th they ſaw ſeveral birds, one of which was taken, and judged to be a land-bird. On the 18th they diſcovered the iſland of Saypan, [109] and ſoon afterwards that of Tinian, off which they anchored on the day following.

No time was loſt in ſending the boats on ſhore, and they returned in a few hours, with oranges, limes, and cocoa-nuts. Tents were erected for the ſick, who were ſent on ſhore with all expedition. The ſmith's forge, and carpen⯑ter's cheſt were alſo landed; and the Captain and firſt Lieutenant, who both continued ill, went on ſhore, with a party of men to hunt for cattle. A young bull of great weight was ſoon catched; and they found plenty of oranges, limes, and bread-fruit. On the 21ſt they be⯑gan the neceſſary repairs of the ſhip. The fa⯑tigue ſuſtained by thoſe who went to hunt for cattle was ſo great, by going many miles thro' thickets, that one party was ordered to relieve another; and the ſecond Lieutenant with ſeveral of the men, being ſent to reſide on the north part of the iſland, where cattle were moſt plen⯑tiful, a boat was ſent daily to bring in what they catched. In this iſland they procured beef, pork, poultry, papaw-apples, and all the other refreſhments, of which an account is given in Anſon's Voyage.

By the 15th of October the fruit and water was carried on board, and all the ſick being re⯑covered, preparations were made for ſailing; and on the next day they left the bay, and ſail⯑ed to the weſt.

[110]On the 21ſt and 22d they ſaw ſeveral gannets, and other birds; and on the 23d and two fol⯑lowing days it blew a violent ſtorm, the effects of which were the more dreaded, as the ſhip admitted more water than ſhe had done at any time during the voyage. The bad weather con⯑tinued on the 26th, when they ſaw ſeveral land⯑birds. They had now to encounter the united horrors of thunder, lightning, rain, darkneſs, and ſuch a violent ſea, as broke even the iron work on the gun-whale, and waſhed over-board many heavy things. On the 27th they were bleſt with a ſight of the ſun, and the day fol⯑lowing the weather became more temperate. In the middle of the night one Morgan, a taylor, was ſuddenly miſſed, and it was thought he fell over-board in a fit of intoxication.

On the 3d of November they diſcovered three iſlands, which were named SANDY ISLE, SMALL KEY, and LONG ISLAND; and on the day following they ſaw another, to which cap⯑tain Wallis gave the name of NEW ISLAND; all of which iſlands are in ten degrees odd mi⯑nutes north-latitude, and 247 degrees odd mi⯑nutes weſt-longitude. The ſhip held her courſe till the 8th, on which day the log and journal-books of the voyage were taken from the infe⯑rior officers and foremaſt-men.

They now altered their courſe, and on the 13th ſaw the iſlands of Timoun, Aros and Pe⯑lang. On the 16th they croſſed the equinoctial [111] line, and came again into ſouth-latitude. The next day they ſaw the iſlands of Pulo Toté, and Pulo Weſte; ſoon after which they had ſight of the ſeven iſlands. A ſingular incident hap⯑pened in the ſucceeding night, which was very tempeſtuous, and ſo dark, that they could not ſee acroſs the ſhip. During the full violence of the wind, a flaſh of lightning afforded them light enough to ſee a ſhip of conſiderable ſize, which was ſo near, that it was with difficulty they ſteered clear of her; but they could not get information to what nation ſhe belonged, as the wind was too loud for them to hear each other. This was the firſt ſhip they had ſeen ſince they parted from the Swallow. In the morning they ſaw the Iſland of Pulo Taya, near which they came to an anchor in the evening; and the next morning ſailed again, and ſaw two ſhips a-head of them, but the current was ſo ſtrong that they loſt ground, and therefore they again anchored in the evening. The next day they loſt an anchor, the cable of which was cut away by the rocks. On the 22d they ſaw the coaſt of Sumatra, and came to an anchor in the road of Batavia, on the 30th of Novem⯑ber 1767.

On the following day captain Wallis ſaluted the Dutch governor with 13 guns, and the com⯑pliment was returned from the fort with one additional gun. Permiſſion having been ob⯑tained to purchaſe neceſſaries, they were ſoon [112] ſupplied with beef and vegetables. The crew were now threatened with puniſhment, if any attempt ſhould be made to bring liquor aboard; and no man was permitted to leave the ſhip, but thoſe who were called by duty; and even thoſe were not ſuffered to go into the town.—The in⯑temperate uſe of arrack is highly pernicious to ſtrangers who viſit Batavia.

His Majeſty's ſhip the Falmouth was at this time laying in the road, but in ſo ſhattered a condition, that it was thought ſhe could not hold together during the next monſoon; nor were the few of her crew which remained alive in any better condition than the veſſel. On the 5th of December captain Wallis received a pe⯑tition from the warrant officers of the Falmouth, ſetting forth, that their powder had been thrown into the ſea, by order of the Dutch, and that the gunner was dead; that their mis⯑fortunes had deprived the boatſwain of his ſenſes, and that he was then a lunatic in the Dutch hoſ⯑pital; that his ſtores were all ſpoiled; that the cook had been wounded, and remained a crip⯑ple; and that the carpenter was near death.—They therefore petitioned that the Captain would carry them to England, or, at all adven⯑tures, diſmiſs them from the ſhip, as there was now nothing left for them to take charge of Captain Wallis was obliged to refuſe their re⯑queſt, however reaſonable, and informed them, that as they had taken charge of ſtores, they [113] muſt wait for orders from England. To this they anſwered, that they had not received a ſingle order ſince they were left in the road of Batavia: that they had ten years pay due, and would rather go home ſweepers, than remain in their preſent wretched ſituation. That they were never permit⯑ted to ſleep on ſhore, and when ſick, no perſon had the humanity to viſit them: that the Malays frequently robbed them, and that they expected deſtruction at the hands of thoſe people, as they had burnt the Siam Prize not long before the arrival of the Dolphin. They entreated the Captain to make their caſe known in England, which he readily promiſed to do.

On the 5th the Captain went on ſhore, to buy ſuch ſtores as he thought neceſſary to carry the ſhip home with ſafety. He viſited the differ⯑ent ſtore-houſes and arſenals; but the demands of the Dutch were ſo exorbitant, that he deter⯑mined to make ſhift with ſuch materials as he had, rather than be impoſed on by people who wiſhed to take every advantage of his neceſſity. Accordingly, he ſailed on the 8th of December, without loſing a ſingle man, and having only two on the ſick liſt.

On the 11th the crew began to be afflicted with colds and fluxes; and the following night they ſaw the Coaſt of Java, on which was placed an amazing number of lights, intended, as they imagined, to entice the fiſh near the beach.—They anchored off Princes Iſland on the 14th, [114] and began to take in wood and water; at which place they remained till the 20th, during which time they purchaſed turtle, poultry, and other refreſhments.

While they lay here one of the ſeamen fell from the main-yard into the barge, which was a-longſide the ſhip, and ſtruck down two other men, one of whom was bru [...]ſed ſo much that he died in four days; but the other eſcaped with a broken toe: the man who fell had ſeve⯑ral bones broken, and was otherwiſe ſhockingly bruiſed. They buried three men here, and ma⯑ny others were ſeized with fluxes, and putrid fevers; the contagi [...]n of which laſt diſorder conſtantly attacked, in a day or two, thoſe who attended the ſick. At th [...]s time too the ſhip made above three feet water in four hours.

They ſtruggled with theſe accumulated mis⯑fortune till the 1 [...]th of January, when the ſick⯑neſs began to abate—On the 2 [...]th they encoun⯑tered a dreadful ſtorm, wh [...]h tore the ſails to pieces, [...]ke a [...], and carried ſe⯑veral of the beams ever [...]: yet, during this ſtorm, they obſerved a [...] of birds and butterflies.—On the 3 [...]th they ſaw land, and came to an anchor in Table B [...]y, at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 4th of February.

Captain Wallis having ſaluted the Governor, and the Commanders of [...] in the har⯑bour, and they having [...] ſalute in retu [...]n, he loſt no time [...] p [...]uring freſh meat [115] and vegetables for the uſe of the crew. The ſurgeon was ſent on ſhore to hire lodgings for the ſick; but as the rate demanded was very high, and as the ſmall-pox (which many of the ſeamen had not had) raged prodigiouſly, the Captain obtained the Governor's permiſſion to erect tents on a plain about two miles from the town.

This being done, the ſick were ſent on ſhore; poſitive orders being given that no liquor ſhould be brought to the tents; that no one ſhould be permitted to go into the town; and that extra proviſions ſhould be procured for thoſe who were moſt reduced by ſickneſs. The Captain was ſo very ill, that, as long as the ſhip lay here, he was at a country-houſe ſeveral miles diſtant.

Every man who was able to do any kind of work, was now employed in the neceſſary re⯑pairs of the ſhip, which being nearly compleat⯑ed by the 10th of February, ſeveral of the men, who had had the ſmall-pox, were permitted to viſit the town; and thoſe who had not had that diſtemper, were allowed to take daily walks in the country; and as they did not abuſe this li⯑berty, it was continued to them as long as the ſhip remained there.

The neceſſaries which could not be purchaſed of the Dutch at Batavia, were bought reaſon⯑ably at this place; and freſh water was procur⯑ed by diſtillation, with a view to convince the [116] commanders of the Indiamen that lay here, how eaſily wholeſome water might be procur⯑ed at ſea. This method of diſtillation is as fol⯑lows: 56 gallons of ſalt water being put into the ſtill at five in the morning, thirty-ſix gallons of freſh water was obtained by about a quarter after ten; thirteen gallons and a half remaining in the ſtill. This freſh water was procured at the expence of ſixty-nine pounds of coals, and nine pounds of wood.

On the 25th all hands were ordered on board, when it was found that every man, except three, was able to do duty. A number of ſheep were purchaſed for ſea ſtores; and the ſhip ſailed on the third of March.

On the 17th they anchored in the bay of St. Helena, and ſent perſons on ſhore to get water, and others to gather purſlain, of which there is great plenty. The Captain going on ſhore, was ſaluted by the guns of the fort; and re⯑queſted to make that place his reſidence during his ſtay on the iſland: but their water-caſks be⯑ing ſoon filled, and the wind ſerving the next day, they then ſailed for England.

On the 28th they croſſed the equinoctial line, getting once more into north-latitude. On the 24th they ſaw the Cape of Pico.—On the 11th of May they had ſight of the Savage ſloop of war, captain Hammond, in chace of a ſloop, at which he fired ſeveral guns. On this captain Wallis fired, and brought the veſſel to, which [117] proved to be laden with brandy, tea, &c. from Roſcoe in France; ſhe was of Liverpool, and was commanded by Robert Chriſtian. Captain Wallis detained her, in order to her being ſent to England; as ſhe was judged to be a ſmug⯑gler, pretending to be bound to Bergen, in Norway, tho' ſhe was ſailing to the ſouth-weſt.

No material incident happened from this time to the end of the voyage, which was happily compleated by the Dolphin coming to an an⯑chor in the Downs on the 20th of May 1768.

CAPTAIN CARTERET's VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. In 1766, 1767, 1768 and 1769.

MR. Carteret having already circumnavi⯑gated the globe with Commodore By⯑ron, was appointed to the command of the Swallow ſloop, ſoon after his return to England; and, on the 22d of Auguſt 1766, ſailed from Plymouth, in company with his Majeſty's ſhip the Dolphin, and the Prince Frederick ſtore-ſhip.

Nothing material happened till the morning of the 9th of September, (when the ſhip lay in the road of Madeira) at which time nine prime ſeamen left the veſſel privately, and ſwam on ſhore naked, having only their money tied in handkerchiefs round their bodies. While Cap⯑tain Carteret was writing to the Conſul to aſ⯑ſiſt him in the recovery of theſe brave, but im⯑prudent fellows, he received a meſſage, that they had been found naked on the ſhore. A boat was inſtantly diſpatched to bring them on board, where they cut a moſt ridiculous figure, and ſeemed heartily aſhamed of what they had done: it appeared, however, that they had ran this riſk only to get a ſkinful of liquor (as they ſaid) knowing they were bound on a long voy⯑age, [119] and it being uncertain who might live or die. Captain Carteret endeared himſelf very much to the crew by pardoning theſe men, whoſe future ſervices amply repaid this well-timed lenity.

It will be needleſs to recite any particulars which happened till the 11th of April, when the Swallow parted company with the Dolphin and Prince Frederick, as already related in the account of Captain Wallis's Voyage. At nine o'clock on this day the Swallow had totally loſt ſight of the Dolphin, which Captain Carteret judged to be then clear of the mouth of the Streights; and as the Swallow was then under land, where ſhe had not the advantage of any conſiderable breeze, they entertained no hope of ſeeing their conſort during the remainder of the voyage.

At this time all the cloth, linen, cutlery wares and trinkets were on board the Dolphin; a circumſtance which aggravated Captain Car⯑teret's diſtreſs, as he had not any thing proper to barter with the Indians; yet he encouraged the crew not to deſpair; and was happy to find that they were in high ſpirits for the voyage.

A few hours after the ſhips parted company, the Swallow encountered a violent ſtorm, dur⯑ing which there was ſo thick a fog, that they could not ſee mountainous land which they were within half a mile of. At this time the boat was out in ſearch of an anchoring-place; [120] and when night came on, it was ſo dark, that they could not ſee half the length of the ſhip: they therefore hoiſted lights, and fired a gun every half hour; and at length the boat reached the ſhip in ſafety. The next morning the boat was again ſent in ſearch of a place to anchor in, and in the afternoon, when the Captain deſ⯑paired of her returning in time, he ſaw her ſounding a bay, and inſtantly making towards her, came to anchor in ſafety.

The Captain now retired to reſt, but he was diſturbed in a few minutes by the ſhouting of the crew upon the deck, and the noiſe of thoſe below running to join them. His fears brought him inſtantly on the deck, where he heard the univerſal cry of the Dolphin! the Dolphin! but this flattering appearance ſoon vaniſhed, and proved to be only water forced up, and whirled in the air by a guſt of wind from the mountains. Mr. Carteret ſays, that as the cur⯑rent ſets continually into the harbour where they lay, he has no doubt but it has another com⯑munication with the ſea to the ſouth of Deſeada. The borders of the bay abound with muſcles and wild geeſe, and afford plenty of wood and water.

They ſailed from this place early in the morn⯑ing of the 15th of April, and ſoon afterwards, by the ſudden ſhifting of the wind, they en⯑countered ſo violent a ſtorm, that they were in danger of ſinking; yet they did not dare to take [121] in any ſails, for fear of running foul of ſome rocky iſlands, which in Narborough's Voyage are called the Iſlands of Direction; nor could they go back into the Streight, without the dan⯑ger of running foul of a lee-ſhore; yet, notwith⯑ſtanding their beſt endeavours, the ſhip made haſtily towards this lee ſhore. Thus circum⯑ſtanced, they were compelled to ſtave the wa⯑ter-caſks on and between the decks, that ſhe might carry better ſail; and by this expedient they at length eſcaped the threatened deſtruction. They now got into the open ſea, after a very providential deliverance, for, had the wind a⯑gain ſhifted, the ſhip muſt have been unavoid⯑ably loſt.

They now ſteered a northward courſe along the Coaſt of Chili; but as the water on board was deemed inſufficient for the length of the voyage, the Captain propoſed touching at the Iſland of Juan Fernandes, or Maſafuero, to take in a proper quantity. On the 18th the wind, which had hitherto been favourable for their ſailing northward, and conſequently getting in⯑to a more temperate climate, ſuddenly ſhifted, and continued contrary till the 18th of April, blowing violently all the time, accompanied at intervals with dreadful thunder, lightning, rain and hail.

During this time they ſaw abundance of ſea-birds, among which were two ſorts, one like a pigeon, which the ſeamen called the Cape of Good Hope Hen; and the other Mother Carey's [122] Chickens; but the true name of theſe latter is the Peterel.

From the 27th of this month till the 1ſt of May they had continual ſtorms; and on this day a prodigious ſea laid the whole ſhip under water for ſome time, while the wind blew a hur⯑ricane, and the rain poured down in torrents. The wind now ſhifted, ſo that the head of the veſſel came right againſt a mountainous ſea, which repeatedly broke over the forecaſtle as far as the main-maſt, ſo that it was almoſt a miracle that ſhe was not ſunk.

When the weather became ſomething more moderate, they repaired in ſome degree the da⯑mage the ſhip had ſuſtained during the ſtorm; but they had much bad weather afterwards till the 9th of May, when they were in ſight of the Iſland of Maſafuero: and on the 10th they ſaw Juan Fernandes, and ſailed round to Cumber⯑land Bay, on the eaſt-ſide of it.

The Spaniards having fortified this iſland (a circumſtance till then unknown to Captain Car⯑teret) a number of men were ſeen on the ſhore, and two large boats lying on the beach. A houſe and four pieces of cannon were obſerved near the ſea ſide, and on the brow of a hill, at a ſmall diſtance, was a fort with Spaniſh co⯑lours flying on it. Many cattle were ſeen on the hills, and above 20 houſes on different parts of the iſland. The wind blew ſo ſtrong out of the bay, that it was impoſſible to get [123] very near it: they therefore ſailed weſtward, and were followed by one of the Spaniſh boats; but ſhe ſoon returned, on obſerving that the wind kept them out of the harbour. On the eaſtern ſide of the weſt bay they ſaw a kind of guard-houſe, with two pieces of cannon, on carriages, near it. They now returned towards Cumberland Bay, when the boat again put af⯑ter them; but night coming on, they loſt ſight of her. As Captain Carteret had only Engliſh colours on board, he did not hoiſt any during all this time.

Thus diſappointed of the refreſhments they ſo very much wanted, they ſailed for Maſa⯑fuero, where they anchored on the 12th, but were unable to land, as the beach was full of rocks, and the ſurf ran ſo violently, that the beſt ſwimmers could not get through the breakers: the next morning, however, the boats landed, and filled ſome water-caſks.

On the 15th they anchored on the eaſt-ſide of the iſland; but were driven from their moor⯑ings, and kept out at ſea all night. In the morning the cutter was ſent for water, and the ſhip got near the ſhore, where ſhe ſoon received ſeveral caſks, and ſent the cutter back for more. The long-boat was likewiſe diſpatched on this ſervice, as well as to carry proviſions to thoſe on ſhore. In the afternoon the boats being ob⯑ſerved running along the ſhore, the ſhip fol⯑lowed and took them in, but not without their [124] ſuſtaining ſo much damage by the violence of the ſea, that the carpenters were obliged to work all night in repairing them.

On the 17th the cutter was again ſent for wa⯑ter; and, when ſhe returned, the Lieutenant reported, that the violent rains which had fallen in the night, had brought down ſuch a deluge of water, that the people on ſhore narrowly eſcaped drowning, after loſing ſeveral of the caſks. Mr. Gower, the Lieutenant, having ſeen many rivulets of water produced by the rain which had fallen in the night, propoſed to go and fill the caſks; but he had not been long gone, before the weather began to wear a very threatening appearance, and it thundered and lightned to a degree beyond deſcription. The ſhip now kept as near the ſhore as poſſible, and as it was grown quite dark, they were very appre⯑henſive that the long-boat was loſt, but ſhe hap⯑pily came a-longſide juſt in time to prevent the deſtruction of her whole crew; for ſhe had ſcarce been hoiſted over the ſhip's ſide a moment, before ſuch a violent ſquall came on, as muſt inevitably have ſunk her. Mr. Gower reported, that three of the ſailors having ſwam on ſhore with the caſks, juſt before the ſtorm began, he was under a ne⯑ceſſity, however unwilling, of leaving them behind, expoſed, naked as they were, to thun⯑der, lightning, rain and hunger.

Theſe men returned to the ſhip, on the even⯑ing of the 19th, and gave an account how they had paſſed the melancholy interval.—While [125] day-light continued they hoped for an opportu⯑nity of regaining the boat; but when the dark⯑neſs and cold of the night advanced, they be⯑gan to conſider how they ſhould abide the in⯑clemency of the weather; when neceſſity ſug⯑geſted an expedient that ingenuity might have ſought in vain:—they laid, alternately, each be⯑tween the two other, thus procuring at once the partial comforts of a houſe and a fire. As ſoon as the day broke they proceeded by the ſea-ſhore towards the tent: but being repeatedly impeded by high points of land, they ſwam round them, at ſuch a diſtance, to avoid the rocks, that they were ſcarcely in leſs danger from the ſharks: happily, however, they eſcaped every danger, and were received at the water⯑ing-place with a degree of pleaſure that does honour to the humanity of their brother tars; part of whoſe cloths and proviſions were in⯑ſtantly appropriated to feed the hungry and clothe the naked. When theſe men returned on board, they were indulged with a whole night's reſt, and the next morning were per⯑fectly well. The reader will no doubt be pleaſed to be informed, that theſe were three of the nine men who ſwam aſhore at Madeira, for a ſkinful of liquor.

This day ſuch a quantity of fiſh was taken by the boat, with hooks and lines only, as was equal to the conſumption of the whole crew. On the 20th the ſhip, which had been ſome time ſtanding off and on near the ſhore, came again [126] to an anchor, when the long-boat being ſent out, procured, in a ſhort time, an ample ſup⯑ply of fiſh. During the night, and all the fol⯑lowing day, they had extreme bad weather; but, as ſoon as it became moderately calm, three ſeamen were ſent on ſhore to kill ſeals, and make oil of their fat, for the uſe of the lamps.

On the 22d in the morning (after a ſtormy night) the boats being ſent on ſhore, returned with a number of pintado birds, which were ob⯑tained from the inhabitants, who ſaid that, when the wind blew briſkly in the night, theſe birds flew into the fire in amazing numbers; ſo that they catched ſeveral hundreds the preceding night. On the 23d as much water was got off as the weather would permit of, but ſeveral caſks were loſt by the violence of the ſurf. The weather now grew ſo bad that the Captain was impatient to ſail: he therefore gave orders for all the people on ſhore to come on board. At this time the ſhip drove from her moorings, dragging the anchor after her, till ſhe got into deep water. They now lay to under bare poles, waiting for the boats, while the violence of the wind carried the water higher than the maſt-head. In the evening the long-boat with ten of the men were taken on board; but there yet remained the cutter, with the Lieutenant and eighteen men. The weather becoming more moderate about midnight, the ſhip ſtood in for land, and at ten the next morning was [127] near the ſhore, but the cutter was not to be ſeen; about noon however ſhe was diſcovered cloſe un⯑der land, and in three hours time her crew got on board. Theſe people endeavoured to come off in the evening, but had no ſooner left the ſhore than their cutter was almoſt filled with water, and narrowly eſcaped ſinking: at length ſhe regained the ſhore, where ſhe remained all night: in the morning it was concluded, that the ſhip had periſhed in the ſtorm, and the crew, having taken proper methods to ſecure the boat, propoſed to wait till the ſummer, when they hoped ſhe might be able to carry them to the Iſland of Juan Fernandes:—but theſe thoughts were now loſt in the joy of their hap⯑py deliverance.

The iſland of Maſafuero is of a triangular form, about 22 miles in circumference, and, at a diſtance, has the appearance of a ſingle rock; there is good anchorage on many parts of the coaſt, and the iſland abounds with goats. Wood and water are plenty, but difficult to be procured, on account of the violence of the ſurf. Cod, hallibut, coal-fiſh, and cray-fiſh are to be catched in great numbers; and ſeals are ſo numerous, that Captain Carteret thinks, the killing of thouſands could make no appa⯑rent difference in their numbers. The moun⯑tain cabbage grows on the iſland, which like⯑wiſe abounds in birds, among which are hawks of a very large ſize.

[128]Captain Carteret having left the Iſland of Muſafuero, ſailed to the north, with the hope of getting the ſouth-eaſt trade-wind; and, hav⯑ing got more to the north than he firſt propoſed, he looked out for the Iſlands of St. Ambroſe and St. Felix, which he miſſed through the er⯑roneous printed accounts of their latitudes and longitudes. They likewiſe ſearched for the continent, which in the charts is called Davis's Land; but which Mr. Carteret gives many reaſons for ſuppoſing has no exiſtence.

This ſearch was continued till the 17th of June, which is the depth of winter, when the weather was dark and cold, with ſleet, rain, thunder and lightning. The gloom was ſo con⯑ſtant, that they had ſeldom ſun-ſhine enough to make an obſervation, yet were neceſſitated to carry all the ſail poſſible, that they might not periſh with hunger before the ſhip ſhould reach ſome port, where they might procure a ſupply of neceſſaries.

On the 2d of July they diſcovered an iſland, which was well clothed with trees, and down the ſide of which ran a ſtream of freſh water. It appeared to be about five miles in circum⯑ference, and was called PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, from the name of a young gentleman who firſt ſaw it.

On the 4th the ſhip admitted a great quanti⯑ty of water, and was otherwiſe in a very ſhat⯑tered condition, from the rough ſeas ſhe had en⯑countered. [129] The crew now likewiſe began to be much afflicted with the ſcurvy; though they were, happily, well ſupplied with water, an abundance of the rain-water being catched by means of an awning lined with painted canvas.

On the 11th Captain Carteret gave the name of the BISHOP OF OSNABURGH'S ISLAND, to a low piece of land diſcovered this day, which was well cloathed with verdure. On the 12th they ſaw two other ſmall iſlands, on one of which the boat's crew landed, and found birds ſo tame, as to be taken without the leaſt difficul⯑ty. The other iſland was about 15 miles diſ⯑tance; but neither of them afforded either wa⯑ter or vegetables. They were called the DUKE OF GLOUCESTER'S ISLANDS; and Captain Carte⯑ret ſuppoſes them to be the ſame land which was ſeen by Quiros.

From this period till the 22d of the month they had alternate ſtorms and calms; and on this day judged themſelves five thouſand four hundred miles from the continent of America; yet in all this run they had ſeen no ſigns of a ſouthern continent.

As the ſcurvy was now daily encreaſing among the ſeamen; and as the weather was bad, and the ſhip in a crazy condition, the Captain deter⯑mined to ſteer ſuch a courſe as might moſt pro⯑bably tend to the preſervation of the veſſel and the crew. In conſequence of this reſolution he ſtood to the northward, in the hope of having [130] the advantage of the trade-wind, and reaching ſome iſland, where he might be furniſhed with the neceſſary refreſhments.

On the 25th they ſaw great flocks of birds, which induced them to think that they were near land, but they could not diſcover any. On the 3d of Auguſt great numbers of ſea-birds were ſeen; and on this day the current was obſerved to ſet ſtrongly to the ſouthward, though it had hitherto ran in a contrary direc⯑tion; whence the Captain concluded, that the paſſage between New Zealand and New Hol⯑land opened in this latitude, which was ten de⯑grees eighteen minutes ſouth, and the longitude 177 degrees 30 minutes eaſt.

On the 10th of this month the ſhip ſprung a leak, in a part which they could not come at to repair; ſo that their ſituation was truly alarm⯑ing; but two days afterwards they diſcovered land, which gave freſh ſpirits to the almoſt deſ⯑ponding crew. The Captain obſerved ſeven iſlands, and ſailed towards two of them, which lay very near together: in the evening they came to an anchor near the largeſt of them, on which were ſeen two of the natives, who were negroes, with woolly heads, and wore no kind of clothing.

A boat being ſent on ſhore, an account was brought back that there was fine freſh water op⯑poſite where the ſhip lay, but that it would be dif⯑f [...]cult to procure it, as the whole country was cover⯑ed [131] with thick wood quite to the ſea ſhore. This circumſtance, added to the danger there might be of the natives attacking them from the woods, determined the Captain to look for a more con⯑venient anchoring-place.—On the day following, therefore, the cutter, with the maſter and a party of ſeamen, was ſent to the weſtward, to ſearch for a place to procure wood and water, to ſeek for refreſhments for the ſick, and to diſ⯑cover a place where the ſhip might be repaired. He received orders to be ſtrictly on his guard againſt any attack from the natives, and took with him a few trinkets that happened to be on board, to procure their good will. The long⯑boat being likewiſe ſent off, ſhe ſoon returned laden with water: ſhe was diſpatched a ſecond time, but the people on board the ſhip obſerv⯑ing ſome of the natives advancing to the land⯑ing-place, a ſignal was made for her to return.

Soon after this three of the Indians ſat down on the ſhore, looking ſtedfaſtly at the ſhip for ſeveral hours. The Lieutenant was now ſent to⯑wards them; but, when they ſaw the boat ap⯑proaching, they moved along the coaſt, where they were ſoon met by three others. When they had conferred together, the former went on, while the latter advanced haſtily towards the boat. This being obſerved from the ſhip, a ſignal was made for the boat's crew to act with caution. The Lieutenant now proceeded to the ſhore, and offered his preſents to the In⯑dians, [132] who, regardleſs of his trinkets, diſchar⯑ged their arrows, and immediately ran off; though the boat's crew received no injury, they fired at the natives; but theſe, likewiſe, eſ⯑caped unhurt.

In a ſhort time after this the cutter came on board; the Maſter, who commanded her, hav⯑ing three arrows ſticking in his body. The account he gave of his expedition was, in ſub⯑ſtance, as follows. Being arrived at a place about fifteen miles from the ſhip, he ſaw ſome houſes, but only a very few of the natives, and landed with four of the crew well armed: the firſt fears of the Indians being diſpelled, they accepted his preſents with pleaſure, and, in return, gave him ſome fiſh, yams, and cocoa-nuts. He then went to the houſes; but ſoon obſerving a number of the natives among the trees, and ſeveral canoes coming round a point, he haſtened towards the boat; but before he could embark, a general attack with bows and arrows was made, as well on thoſe in the boat, as on thoſe on ſhore. Thus ſituated, the crew fired repeatedly, killing and wounding many of the Indians: ſtill however the latter con⯑tinued the fight, ſome of them running into the water as high as the breaſt; and when the boat got f [...]rther off ſhe was purſued by the ca⯑noes, which did not retreat till one of them was ſunk, and many of the people in the others were killed.

[133]Some of the crew gave an account of this tranſaction leſs favourable to the Maſter than his own: they ſaid, that the Indians behaved in the moſt friendly manner, till he exaſperated them by cutting down a cocoa-nut tree, after they had ſtrongly intimated their wiſhes that he would not deſtroy it. The inſtant the tree fell they all left the ſpot but one man, but they were ſoon obſerved to aſſemble in great num⯑bers among the trees; on which a Midſhipman entreated the Maſter to go on board; but he ſlighted the advice, nor even retired till the at⯑tack was commenced. The Maſter and three of the ſeamen died of the wounds received from the arrows of the Indians.

The Captain now determined to attempt the reparation of the ſhip in her preſent ſituation; and ſucceeced ſo far that the leak was greatly reduced. On the 14th the wind ſetting full in⯑to the bay, the ſhip was driven near the ſhore, and many of the Indians were obſerved in the woods, as if in expectation of her running a⯑ground.

On the 15th a party was ſent on ſhore to get water, a ſhot having been previouſly fired into the woods, to diſperſe any of the natives that might be lurking in them. The Lieutenant was likewiſe diſpatched in the cutter to keep the coaſt clear for the waterers, by repeated firings into the woods; yet, in ſpite of theſe precautions, a flight of arrows was ſoon diſcharged among [134] them, by which one of the ſeamen was dan⯑gerouſly wounded. The crew now inceſſantly fired to that part of the wood from whence the ar⯑rows came; but the Captain made a ſignal for the boats to come off; and as ſoon as he had taken them on board, fired ſeveral canon into the woods; on which a great number of the na⯑tives left their retreat, and ran away along the ſhore.

In a ſhort time another large party was obſerved on a point of the bay, at whom a ball being fired, it fell in the midſt of, and diſperſed them. The people now took in water with ſafety; but a conſtant firing was kept up, both from the ſhip, and from a party on ſhore; and it appeared that our countrymen had been dread⯑fully ſucceſsful, for repeated groans, as of dying men, were heard from ſeveral places in the woods.

As the Maſter was now dying of the wounds he had received by the arrows; as the Captain and Lieutenant were ſo ill that their recovery was doubtful; and as there was no chance of procuring proper refreſhments at this place, all intentions of purſuing the voyage farther to the ſouthward were laid aſide: the Captain, therefore, having named the place EGMONT ISLAND, and the harbour where the ſhip had lain SWALLOW BAY, ſailed from it on the 17th of Auguſt 1767.

[135]On the ſame day an iſland was diſcovered, which received the name of PORTLAND'S ISLAND, four miles from which they ſaw an harbour, which was called BYRON'S HARBOUR. Having ſailed three leagues from the harbour, they had ſight of the bay where the Indians had attacked the crew of the cutter. This was called BLOODY BAY; on its borders were a number of houſes well conſtructed, and one much longer than the others, which had the ap⯑pearance of a kind of hall for the tranſaction of public buſineſs. In this place, which was well built, and covered with a kind of thatch, the Maſter and his party had been received by the natives, before the wanton cutting down of the cocoa-nut tree. A large number of arrows were hung in bundles round the room, the floor and ſides of which were covered with matting. In this neighbourhood were many gardens, ſur⯑rounded by ſtone walls, and planted with vege⯑tables. Three miles from this village a large town was ſeen, in the front of which, towards the ſea, was an angular kind of fortification, built of ſtone, and near five feet high.

About three miles from hence they ſaw a bay, into which a river empties itſelf, which they called GRANVILLE'S RIVER, and it appeared to be navigable for ſmall veſſels far up the coun⯑try. The point of this bay was called FER⯑RERS'S POINT; and from hence the land forms a large bay, near which is a conſiderable town, [136] inhabited by an incredible number of people, who, while the ſhip was ſailing by, came out of their houſes, holding ſomething like a bundle of graſs in their hands, with which they ap⯑peared to ſtroke each other, running in rings, or dancing, all the while.

Sailing onwards a few miles they ſaw another point, which was called CARTERET POINT, on which was a large canoe, with an awning over it; at a ſmall diſtance was another town, forti⯑fied as that before-mentioned. The inhabitants of this place likewiſe advanced before their houſes, and danced as the others had done. The dance being ended, many of them came off in canoes towards the ſhip: but having got near enough to have a good view of her, they would advance no farther.

They ſoon ſaw another ſmall iſland, which was named TREVANION'S ISLAND, and the north part of it was called CAPE TREVANION. Both the main land and this iſland abounded with inhabitants; and a boat being ſent to ſound the paſſage, they no ſooner obſerved that ſhe had left the ſhip, than ſeveral canoes advanced to attack her. The Indians having let fly their arrows, the boat's crew fired, and killed one man, and wounded another. A gun laden with grape ſhot was at the ſame time fired from the ſhip, on which all the canoes pulled hard for the ſhore, except the one with the wounded man in it, which being taken to the ſhip, the ſurgeon [137] was ordered to examine his wounds, One of this poor fellow's arms was broke, and a ſhot had gone through his head; and the Surgeon being of opinion that the latter wound was mor⯑tal, he was placed in his canoe again, and with one hand rowed towards the ſhore. His canoe was formed only of the hollow trunk of a tree: he was a young fellow, almoſt as black as the negroes of Guinea; his features were good, his hair woolly, and he went quite naked.—It may be fairly aſked here, if it would not have been an act of humanity to have attempted the cure of this unfortunate youth, if it had been only by a ſingle dreſſing, before he had been diſ⯑miſſed.

As they ſailed along the ſhore they ſaw plan⯑tains, bananas, and cocoa-nut trees, and ob⯑ſerved great numbers of hogs and poultry: but the Captain being yet very ill, and having not officers ſufficient to direct the men in the com⯑mon buſineſs of the ſhip, he had no opportu⯑nity of eſtabliſhing a friendly traffick with the Indians; and was unable to obtain by force thoſe refreſhments which the crew became every hour more and more in want of.

Thus ſituated; unable to proceed farther to the ſouth, and in danger of being too late for the monſoon, he gave immediate orders to pro⯑ceed northwards, in hope of diſcovering the country, which Dampier has diſtinguiſhed by the name of Nova Britannia.

[138]To all the iſlands they had now left, Captain Carteret gave the general name of QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S ISLANDS; and, beſides thoſe al⯑ready mentioned, he ſaw ſeveral, which he named as follows, viz. LORD HOW'S ISLAND; KEPPEL'S ISLAND; LORD EDGCOMBE'S ISLAND; OURRY'S ISLAND; and VOLCANO ISLAND; this laſt being ſo denominated from a ſmoke that iſſued from its top, which is of an amazing height, and ſhaped like a ſugar loaf.

The canoes of the inhabitants are formed of the trunk of a tree hollowed, are large enough to contain ten or twelve people, and are furniſhed with out-riggers, but have no ſails.

The people of Egmont Iſland are very ex⯑pert at ſwimming and diving; and active and vigorous in a high degree. Their arrows are ſo ſharp, and diſcharged with ſuch ſtrength, that one of them wounded a man in the thigh, after paſſing through the waſh-board of the boat. The points of theſe arrows are flint, and no metal was ſeen among the natives. There are good harbours on the coaſts of theſe iſlands, which likewiſe abound in rivers, and have ſome vallies, but for the moſt part they are moun⯑tainous, and covered with trees.

Captain Carteret ſailed on the 18th of Au⯑guſt, and holding a weſt-north-weſt courſe, he on the 20th diſcovered a ſmall iſland, which was called GOWER'S ISLAND, the people of which did not differ in any thing material from [139] thoſe of the iſlands he had lately left. Some cocoa-nuts were here procured in exchange for nails; and the inhabitants had intimated, that they would furniſh a farther ſupply the next morning; but it was then found, that the current had carried the ſhip conſiderably to the ſouth during the night, and brought them within ſight of two other iſlands, one of which was called SIMPSON'S ISLAND, and the other CARTERET'S ISLAND.

As both theſe iſlands were to windward of the ſhip, they ſailed again to Gower's Iſland, which abounds with fine trees, many of which are the cocoa-nut. A boat being ſent on ſhore, the In⯑dians attempted to ſeize her; and in return the crew made prize of a canoe, in which was a number of cocoa-nuts. The arms of the na⯑tives were ſpears, bows and arrows.

As a ſtrong current ſet to the ſouthward, they now ſteered a north-weſterly courſe, becauſe the bad condition of the ſhip, and ſickneſs of the crew, would have rendered it impoſſible for them ever to have got to ſea again, if they had been driven into any gulph or deep bay. On the 22d one of the marines ſell overboard, and was drowned, notwithſtanding every effort was uſed to ſave him.

The ſhip fell in with nine iſlands in the night of the 24th, which Captain Carteret ſuppoſes to be the ſame that were diſcovered by Taſ⯑man, and are named Ohang Java: eight of [140] theſe are very ſmall, but the other is more extenſive, and they are all inhabited by blacks, whoſe heads are woolly, like thoſe on the coaſt of Africa. The next day they had ſight of an iſland covered with verdure, which was called SIR CHARLES HARDY'S ISLAND, and from the number of fires that were ſeen on it, they ſup⯑poſed it to be inhabited. This day they like⯑wiſe had ſight of a large iſland, formed of three high hills, which took the name of WINCHELSEA'S ISLAND. On the 26th they ſaw a large iſland to the north, which Captain Carteret imagines to have been the iſland of St. John, that was diſcovered by Schouten.

This day they were within ſight of Nova Britannia, and the next morning the current drove the ſhip into a deep bay, which, in Dam⯑pier's Voyages, is called St. George's Bay. On the 28th they gave the name of WALLIS'S ISLAND to a ſmall iſland in a bay, off which they came to an anchor, and were now 7500 miles due weſt from the main land of America. The cutter was ſent out to catch fiſh; but not ſucceeding, ſhe returned with a conſiderable number of cocoa-nuts.

On the next day, after great fatigue, they weighed the anchor, and ſailed to a place which they called ENGLISH COVE, where they imme⯑diately began to take in wood and water. They now attempted to catch fiſh with hooks and lines, but none of them would bite; nor were [141] they much more ſucceſsful with their nets: turtle likewiſe were very plentiful, yet they could not take any of them; but at low water they picked up ſome large cockles and rock oyſters. From the ſhore they procured cocoa-nuts, and the cabbage of the cocoa-tree, which is criſp and juicy; this, when eaten raw, taſtes like a cheſnut; but, when boiled, has a more agreeable flavour than the parſnip. It was found to be excellent when boiled with portable ſoup and oatmeal. They likewiſe gathered ſome plumbs, which taſted like thoſe of the Weſt In⯑dies, which are called Jamaica plumbs; and by this ſupply of vegetables, they had ſoon reaſon to rejoice in the bleſſing of returning health.

This iſland ſeemed to have been lately inha⯑bited, as ſeveral wretched huts were ſeen, in which were the remains of fires, and the ſhells of fiſh, which did not appear to have been long catched: they had likewiſe a ſight of two ani⯑mals, which were ſuppoſed to be dogs. This place produces palm-trees of various kinds; aloes, canes, bamboos, rattans, beetle-nut, and the nutmeg-tree; with a variety of other trees, and many ſhrubs and plants of which the names were not known. In the woods was a large black-bird, whoſe note was not unlike the bark⯑ing of a dog: there were likewiſe parrots, rooks, pigeons and doves: they alſo ſaw centipieds, ſerpents and ſcorpions.

[142]Having taken in wood and water, and re⯑paired the ſhip in the beſt manner they were able, the Captain took poſſeſſion of the coun⯑try, with all the neighbouring iſlands, for the King of Great Britain. This was done by nailing on a lofty tree a piece of board faced with lead, on which was engraved the name of the veſſel, and of the Captain, the time of entering and leaving the harbour, and a repre⯑ſentation of the union flag of England.

They left this cove on the 7th of September, and anchored on the ſame day almoſt cloſe to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, where they ſupplied themſelves with the fruit and the cabbage in very great abundance; and called the place CARTERET'S HARBOUR, which being formed by the main and two iſlands, one of them was named LEIGH'S ISLAND, and the other COCOA-NUT ISLAND.

Nothing now remained but to attempt the reaching Batavia while the monſoon continued favourable: on the 9th of September, there⯑fore, the anchor was weighed, and when they were about four leagues from land, the wind and current being both againſt them, they ſteer⯑ed round the coaſt into a channel between two Iſlands, which channel was divided by another iſland, to which Captain Carteret gave the name of the DUKE OF YORK'S ISLAND, and near which are ſeveral ſmaller iſlands. To the ſouth of the largeſt iſland are three hills of ſingular [143] form, which were called the MOTHER AND DAUGHTERS, one of which was ſuppoſed to be a volcano, from the large clouds of ſmoke that were ſeen iſſuing from it. A point they called CAPE PALLISER, lies to the eaſt of theſe hills, and CAPE STEPHENS to the weſt; north of which laſt lies an iſland, which took the name of the ISLE OF MAN. The country in general is mountainous and woody, and was ſuppoſed to be inhabited, from the number of fires ſeen on it in the night. On the Duke of York's Iſland the houſes are ſituated among groves of the cocoa-nut tree, and form the moſt enchanting proſpect.

Having brought to for the night, they ſailed again in the morning, when ſome of the Indi⯑ans put off in canoes towards the ſhip; but the wind being fair and blowing freſh, it was not thought prudent to wait for them. Steering north-weſt by weſt, they loſt ſight of New Bri⯑tain on the 11th, and it being now found, that what had been taken for a bay was a ſtreight, it was called ST. GEORGE'S CHANNEL, and the iſland on the north of it received the name of NEW IRELAND. In the evening they diſcovered a large iſland, well clothed with vendure, which was de⯑nominated SANDWICH ISLAND, off this iſland the ſhip lay great part of the night, during which time a perpetual noiſe was heard, reſembling the ſound of a drum. When they had almoſt cleared the Streight, the weather falling calm, [144] a number of canoes approached the ſhip, and, though they could not be prevailed on to go on board, they exchanged ſome little matters with the crew, receiving nails and bits of iron, which they preferred to every thing elſe that was offer⯑ed them. Though the canoes of theſe people were formed out of ſingle trees, they were be⯑tween 80 and 100 feet in length. The natives are negroes, and their hair is of the woolly kind, but they have neither thick lips nor flat noſes. They wore ſhell-work on their legs and arms, but were otherwiſe naked, except that their hair and beards were powdered with white powder, and a feather was ſtuck into the head above the ear. Their arms conſiſted of a long ſtick and a ſpear; and it was obſerved, that they had fiſhing-nets and cordage.

They now ſailed weſt, and coming in ſight of the ſouth-weſt point of the iſland, it was called CAPE BYRON; near which is an iſland of conſiderable extent, which received the name of NEW HANOVER. The Streight they had now paſſed was called BYRON'S STREIGHT, one of the largeſt iſlands they had ſeen, BYRON'S ISLAND; and the ſouth-weſt point of New Hanover, QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S FORELAND. On the fol⯑lowing day they ſaw ſeveral ſmall iſlands, which received the name of the DUKE OF PORTLAND'S ISLANDS.

When they had compleatly navigated St. George's Channel, the whole length of which [145] is about one hundred leagues; they ſailed a weſtward courſe, and on the 14th of Septem⯑ber diſcovered ſeveral iſlands. The next morn⯑ing ſome hundreds of the natives came off in canoes towards the ſhip, and were invited on board by every token of friendſhip and good will; notwithſtanding which, when they came within reach, they threw ſeveral lances at the ſeamen on the deck. A great gun and ſeveral muſkets were now fired at them, by which ſome were killed or wounded; on which they rowed towards the ſhore; and after they had got to a diſtance, a ſhot was fired ſo as to fall beyond them, to convince them that they were not out of the reach of the guns.

In a ſhort time other canoes advanced haſtily from a diſtant part of the iſland; and one of them coming nearer than the reſt, the people in it were invited on board the ſhip; but in⯑ſtead of complying with the invitation, they threw in a number of darts and lances. This aſſault was returned by the firing of ſeveral muſkets, whereby one of the Indians was kil⯑led; on which his companions jumped over-board, and ſwam to the other canoes, all of which rowed to the ſhore. This canoe being taken on board, was found to contain a turtle, ſome other fiſh, and a fruit between the apple and plumb, of a ſpecies hitherto unknown to Europeans. Theſe people were almoſt negroes, with woolly hair, which they powdered; and [146] they went naked, except the ornaments of ſhells round their arms and legs.

Captain Carteret now coaſted along the iſlands, to which he gave the general name of the AD⯑MIRALTY ISLANDS. He deſcribes them as having a moſt enchanting appearance, being covered with woods, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and the houſes of the natives. The largeſt of theſe iſlands is computed to be above 50 miles in length; and he ſuppoſes that they produce many valuable articles, particularly ſpices.

They diſcovered two ſmall verdant iſlands on the 19th, which were called DUROUR'S ISLAND, and MATTY'S ISLAND, the inhabitants of which laſt ran along the coaſt with lights during the night. They had ſight of two other ſmall iſlands on the 24th, which were called STE⯑PHENS'S ISLANDS, and which abounded with beautiful trees.

On the evening of the 25th they had ſight of three iſlands, the natives of which came off in canoes, and went on board the ſhip. They bartered cocoa-nuts for ſome bits of iron, with which metal they did not ſeem unac⯑quainted, and appeared extravagantly fond of it. They called it parram, and intimated, that a ſhip ſometimes touched at their iſlands. Thoſe people were of the copper colour, and had fine black hair; but their beards were very ſmall, as they were continually plucking the hair from their faces. Their teeth were even and white, [147] and their countenances agreeable; their ac⯑tivity was ſuch, that they ran to the maſt-head even quicker than the ſeamen. They ate and drank any thing that was given them; and had not the leaſt degree of reſerve in their behavi⯑our. Their dreſs conſiſted only of a piece of fine matting round the waiſt.—As the current carried the ſhip at a great rate, the Captain had no opportunity of landing, though the Indians offered, that ſome of their people ſhould remain on board, as a ſecurity for the ſafe return of ſuch of the ſeamen as might be ſent on ſhore. One of the Indians, on finding that none of the crew were to land, abſolutely refuſed to leave the ſhip, and was therefore carried to the iſland of Celebes, where he died. This man was named Joſeph Freewill, and the largeſt of the iſlands was called FREEWILL ISLAND; but the natives called it Pegan; and the names of the other two are Onata and Onello.

On the evening of the 28th they diſcovered an iſland from the maſt-head; but they neither viſited nor gave name to it. On the 12th of October they got ſight of a ſmall iſland, which was named CURRENT ISLAND, from the great ſtrength of the ſoutherly current; and on the following day they diſcovered two more ſmall iſlands, which were called ST. ANDREW'S ISLANDS.

On the 26th they had ſight of land, which, on the day following, they knew to be the Iſland of Mindanao, and coaſted the ſouth-eaſt [148] part of it, in ſearch of a bay deſcribed in Dam⯑pier's Voyages; but they could not find it. A boat being ſent out, found a little nook at the ſouthern extremity of the iſland, near which was a town and a fort. The boat being ſeen from the ſhore, a gun was fired, and ſome ca⯑noes came out after it; on which the Lieute⯑nant retreated towards the ſhip, and, when the canoes came in ſight of her, they retired in their turn.

They now ſailed eaſtward, and, on the 2d of November, anchored in a bay near the ſhore, whither the boats immediately went, and took in water; they ſaw no ſigns of that part of the iſland being inhabited, but a canoe being obſerved to come round a point of the bay, as if to watch their motions, the Captain hoiſted Engliſh colours, in the hope of tempting her crew on board; but they only took a ſurvey of the ſhip, and rowed off.

In the night a loud noiſe was heard from the ſhore, very much like the war-whoop of the ſavages of America; which, inducing Captain Carteret to think that the intentions of the iſlanders were hoſtile, he ordered up his guns from the hold, and made all preparations to repreſs force with force. The next morning one of the boats was ſent on ſhore for water, while the other was held in readineſs to aſſiſt in caſe of danger. As ſoon as the crew had landed, many armed men advanced from the woods, [149] one of whom holding up ſomething white, the Captain, who had no white flag on board, ſent the Lieutenant on ſhore, with orders to diſplay a table-cloth as a ſignal of peace. This being done, two Indians came down to the Lieute⯑nant, one of whom addreſſed him firſt in Dutch, and then in Spaniſh, in which latter tongue he was with difficulty underſtood. His enquiries were, if the ſhip was a Dutch veſſel; what number of men and guns ſhe carried; if ſhe had been to Batavia, or was bound thither; and whether ſhe was deſigned for war or trade.

Theſe queſtions being anſwered, he ſaid they might go to the town, and he would introduce them to the Governor. The Lieutenant now deſired that ſome armed Indians might retreat, and that the ſeamen might be permitted to fill water; which was readily granted. This be⯑ing done, the Lieutenant preſented the Indian with a ſilk handkerchief, and received a coarſe neckcloth in return. The boats ſoon returned to the ſhip, with a good ſupply of water; and Captain Carteret was congratulating himſelf on the proſpect which theſe amicable appearances promiſed, when he obſerved ſome hundreds of Indians, armed with targets, hangers, broad⯑ſwords, pikes, bows, arrows and muſkets, range themſelves oppoſite the ſhip:—they brandiſhed their ſwords, and held up their targets, in to⯑ken of defiance, at the ſame time diſcharging their lances and arrows towards the ſhip.

[150]Captain Carteret, ſtill reſolved to avoid com⯑ing to extremities if it were poſſible, and ſent the Lieutenant again on ſhore, to diſplay the table-cloth, as an enſign of peace. The na⯑tives ſeeing that the boat had reached the ſhore, yet that no perſon landed, one of them ad⯑vanced, and beckoned them to come to the ſpot near where he ſtood; which the Lieute⯑nant declined doing, as he would then have been within reach of their arrows.

The Captain having formed a reſolution of viſiting the town, ſailed from hence the next morning, after having called the place DECEIT⯑FUL BAY: but the wind ſoon blowing violently in ſhore, he altered his reſolution, and ſteered for Batavia.

The ſouth of Mindanao is a fine country, in⯑terſperſed with woods, lawns and plantations; and abounds with inhabitants, as do likewiſe its neighbouring iſlands. Captain Carteret was of opinion, that there were Dutchmen in the town, or perſons in the Dutch intereſt, who, finding the Swallow to be an Engliſh veſſel, had irritated the inhabitants againſt the crew.

On the 14th of November, 1767, they reach⯑ed the Streight of Macaſſar, ſituate between the iſlands of Borneo and Celebes, to a point of which latter iſland they gave the name of HUMMOCK POINT; to the weſtward of which a number of boats were ſeen fiſhing on the [151] ſhoals. They were in ſight of two very ſmall iſlands on the 21ſt, which are well clothed with verdure, and deemed by Captain Carteret to be the ſame that are called Taba Iſlands in the French charts.

On the 27th they croſſed the equinoctial line, and got into ſouthern latitude, at which time they found the current ſetting againſt them, and the tornadoes became violent. The crew was now diminiſhing by death, and weakened daily by ſickneſs; ſo that there were hardly hands ſufficient to navigate the veſſel. On the 3d of December they had ſight of the iſlands called the Little Pater-noſters, which lie ſomething more than two degrees ſouth of the line; but it was out of their power to land any where for refreſhment, as the winds and currents were againſt them. Not a man on board was now free from the ſcurvy; and when it was ima⯑gined that nothing could have aggravated their diſtreſs, they were attacked by a pirate in the middle of the night of the 10th of December. It was ſo very dark that they could not ſee their enemy, who attacked them with ſwivel guns and ſmall arms; but they returned the ſalute ſo warmly, that the pirate was ſunk, and all her crew periſhed, after having wounded two per⯑ſons on board the Swallow, and done ſome very trifling damage to the ſhip. The pirate had been ſeen in the duſk of the evening; and Cap⯑tain Carteret afterwards heard that ſhe belonged [152] to a Freebooter, who had upwards of thirty veſ⯑ſels engaged in the dangerous buſineſs of piracy.

By the 12th of this month they had loſt thir⯑teen of the crew; and the death of thirty others was hourly dreaded. At this time too the weſ⯑terly monſoon was ſet in, ſo that it was impoſ⯑ſible to reach Batavia; and as they muſt ſpee⯑dily make ſome land, or inevitably periſh, it was reſolved to attempt the getting to Macaſ⯑ſar, a Dutch ſettlement on the iſland of Cele⯑bes. On the 13th they ſaw ſeveral trees float⯑ing, and birds ſitting on them: and two days afterwards they came to an anchor, at little more than a league from Macaſſar.

Late that night the Governor ſent a Dutch⯑man on board the Swallow, who was greatly alarmed to find that ſhe was an Engliſh man of war, no ſuch veſſel having ever anchored there before; and ſo apprehenſive of danger was the Dutchman, that he would not venture to enter the cabin. Very early the next day the Cap⯑tain ſent a letter to the Governor, requeſting permiſſion to buy proviſions, and aſking ſhelter for the ſhip, till the proper ſeaſon returned for ſailing to the weſtward. When the boat arrived at the wharf, not one of her crew was permit⯑ted to land; and on the Lieutenant's refuſing to deliver the letter, except to the Governor himſelf, the Shebander and the Fiſcal (two of⯑ficers of the town) came to him, and ſaid that the Governor was ſick, and that they came for [153] the letter by his command. Though this ſick⯑neſs was believed to be mere pretence, the Lieu⯑tenant at length delivered the letter, which they took with them. When the boat's crew had waited ſeveral hours in the burning heat of the ſun, and without the leaſt refreſhment, the Lieutenant was informed, that the Governor had given orders to two gentlemen to wait on Cap⯑tain Carteret, with an anſwer to his letter. While the boat lay off the wharf, it was ob⯑ſerved that there was a great hurry on ſhore, all hands being engaged in fitting out ſuch veſſels as were proper for war.

Soon after the boat came back, Meſſ. Le Cerf and Douglas brought a letter, intimating, that ‘"the ſhip ſhould inſtantly depart from the port, without coming any nearer to the town; that ſhe ſhould not anchor on any part of the coaſt, and that the Captain ſhould not per⯑mit any of his people to land on any place that was under the Governor's juriſdiction."’

As the moſt forcible anſwer to this letter, the Captain ſhewed his dying men to the gentle⯑men, and again pleaded the urgent neceſſity of the caſe. They could not but ſee and feel the propriety of granting refreſhments and ſhelter to perſons in ſuch a ſituation; but ſtill, they ſaid, their orders were abſolute, and muſt be obeyed. Provoked at this treatment, the Cap⯑tain declared he would anchor cloſe to the town; and if they then refuſed him neceſſaries, that [154] he would run the ſhip a-ground, and himſelf and his crew would ſell their lives as dearly as poſſible. Alarmed at this declaration, they begged the Captain to remain in his preſent ſta⯑tion, till the Governor ſhould give further or⯑ders; and this he promiſed, provided that he had an anſwer before the ſea breeze ſet in on the day following.

Early in the morning a ſloop of war, and another veſſel, with many ſoldiers on board, came and anchored under the ſhip's bows. The Captain ſent to ſpeak with them, but they would not anſwer a ſingle queſtion: and as the ſea-breeze ſet in at noon, he then ſailed towards the town, the other veſſels weighing anchor, and keeping even pace with him.

A veſſel now approached from the town, in which were ſeveral gentlemen, among whom was the Mr. Douglas above-mentioned; but none of them would go on board till the Swal⯑low had dropped her anchor. On their expreſ⯑ſing ſome ſurprize that the Swallow had ſailed from her former ſtation, Captain Carteret told them, that he had only acted agreeable to his de⯑claration to them the preceding day, in which he was fully juſtified by his preſent ſituation. Theſe gentlemen brought with them two ſheep, ſome fowls, fruit, and other proviſions, which were highly acceptable.

After they had made ſeveral propoſitions, which Captain Carteret could not but reject, [155] he again declared his reſolution of putting his threats in execution, and to convince them that he was in earneſt, ſhewed them the body of a man who had expired within a few hours; but who would probably have been then alive, if the refreſhments had been brought in time. They now enquired if the ſhip had touched at the Spice Iſlands; and being anſwered in the negative, it was at length agreed, that ſhe ſhould ſail to a bay at a ſmall diſtance, where an hoſpital might be built for the ſick, and where proviſions were plenty, and that if any thing farther was want⯑ed, it ſhould be ſent from Macaſſar.

This propoſal was readily embraced, on the condition that the Governor and Council ſhould ratify it, which they afterwards did. The Cap⯑tain now enquiring why the two veſſels had an⯑chored under the ſhip's bows, was told, that it was only to protect her from any outrages on the part of the natives of the country. Mr. Carteret had nothing to treat his gueſts with, but bad ſalt meat and rotten bread: but, dur⯑ing their treaty, a very elegant dinner having been dreſſed in the gentlemen's veſſel, it was ſerved up on board the ſhip; after which they parted good friends.

An officer from the town coming on board the next day, the Captain applied to him to procure money for his bills on the Engliſh government. This he promiſed to attempt, and went on ſhore for that purpoſe, but, returning in the evening, [156] brought word, that there was not a perſon in the town, who wanted to remit any money to Europe; and that the Company's cheſt was totally drain⯑ed: but this difficulty was at length ſurmounted, by an order to the Reſident at Bonthain, who had money to remit to Europe, to take the Cap⯑tain's bills for any thing he ſhould want.

On the day following Monſ. Le Cerf, who was an Enſign, brought a pilot on board, to carry the ſhip round to Bonthain; and Le Cerf had the command of ſome ſoldiers, who were on board two guard-boats that attended the ſhip: and he was likewiſe to act as a check on the Reſident.

All things being thus ſettled, they ſailed early on the 20th of December, 1767, and anchored in the road of Bonthain on the following day. The guard-boats were now moored cloſe to the ſhore, to prevent all communication between the ſhip's boats and thoſe of the country. Cap⯑tain Carteret having attended the Reſident, to ſettle the price and mode of procuring provi⯑ſions, a houſe was appropriated to his uſe, ſi⯑tuated near a ſmall fort. This being fitted up as an hoſpital, the ſick were landed and placed under a guard, which was commanded by M. Le Cerf, who would not permit them to go a⯑bove thirty yards from the hoſpital, nor the na⯑tives to traffic with the ſeamen; ſo that the pro⯑fits of traffic fell into the hands of the Dutch ſoldiers, whoſe gains were immoderate; ſo great, [157] indeed, that ſome of them ſold at a profit of more than a thouſand per cent. after having ex⯑torted the proviſions from the natives at what price they pleaſed. Captain Carteret having re⯑monſtrated with the Reſident on the injuſtice of this procedure, he ſpoke to the ſoldiers on the ſubject; but this produced no good effect; and it was known that, after this, Le Cerf's wife ſold proviſions at more than double the prime coſt, while it was ſuſpected that he ſold arrack to the ſeamen.

On the 26th and 27th three veſſels arrived, one of which had troops on board, deſtined for the Banda Iſlands; but their boats not being al⯑lowed to go on board the ſhip, the Captain pre⯑vailed on the Reſident to purchaſe, for his uſe, four caſks of ſalt proviſions. Above one hun⯑dred ſail of proas arrived at Bonthain Bay on the 28th.—Theſe veſſels, which fiſh round the iſland, carry Dutch colours, and ſend the pro⯑duce of their labours to China for ſale.

On the 18th of January a letter from Ma⯑caſſar informed Captain Carteret, that the Dol⯑phin, his old conſort, had arrived at Batavia. Ten days after this the Secretary, who had been ſent with Le Cerf, had orders to return to Ma⯑caſſar: on the 19th of February, Le Cerf him⯑ſelf was recalled; and on the 7th of March the largeſt of the guard-boats was likewiſe ordered back. On the 9th the Reſident received a let⯑ter from the Governor of Macaſſar, enquiring [158] when Captain Carteret would ſail for Batavia, though he muſt know it could not be before the eaſtern monſoon ſet in, which would not be till May. All theſe were ſuſpicious circumſtances; and toward the end of the month it was ob⯑ſerved, that a canoe frequently paddled round the ſhip ſeveral times in the night, and retired as ſoon as ſhe was ſeen.

While every one was ſpeculating on theſe mat⯑ters, the Captain received a letter, informing him that a deſign was formed for his deſtruc⯑tion; that the Dutch were at the bottom of this affair; but that the oſtenſible perſon was to be the ſon of the King of Bony, who was on terms of friendſhip with the Dutch, as they had often aſſiſted him in attempts to reduce the inhabi⯑tants of the other parts of the iſland of Celebes, and had been as often repulſed. The pretended grounds for this proceeding were, that the En⯑gliſh might form connections with theſe unſub⯑dued natives of the iſland.

Whether the information contained in this letter was true or falſe, Captain Carteret put his ſhip in the beſt poſture of defence poſſible. He even ſuſpected that the Reſident was privy to the horrid ſcheme; but he had afterwards reaſon to be convinced to the contrary: though it appeared that one of the Princes ſubject to the King of Bony, and a miniſter of that mo⯑narch, had been privately at Bonthain; but of [159] eight hundred men, who were ſaid to be there, no traces could be found.

On the 7th of May the Captain received, through the hands of the Reſident, a letter from the Governor of Macaſſar, denying his having any knowledge of the above-mentioned project, and requiring that the writer of the letter might be given up; but this requiſition was not complied with, as the Captain knew he would be equally puniſhed, whether his infor⯑mation was or was not true.

At this place they purchaſed plenty of freſh proviſions at moderate prices; and, among the reſt, beef of an excellent quality. The bul⯑locks of this place are thoſe that have the bunch on the back; and it likewiſe abounds in buffa⯑loes, horſes, ſheep, deer, and goats. The natives neither eat pork nor turtle; but they ſold the latter, as well as other fiſh, to Captain Carteret.

Having taken in wood and water, they ſailed hence on the 22d of May, and, ſteering along the ſhore, came to an anchor the ſame evening, between the iſlands of Celebes and Tonikaky. They ſailed again in the morning, and at night ſaw the ſouthernmoſt of the iſlands of Salombo. On the 26th they ſaw the iſland of Luback; and on the 29th a number of ſmall iſlands called Carimon-Java.

On the 2d of June they had ſight of the land of Java, and on the following day came to an anchor in the road of Batavia, after hav⯑ing [160] with difficulty prevented the ſhip from ſink⯑ing, by the conſtant working of the pumps, during her whole paſſage from Celebes. Hav⯑ing fired guns of ſalutation, the Captain at⯑tended the Governor, requeſting permiſſion to repair the defects of the ſhip; but he was di⯑rected to petition the Council.

The Council met on the Monday following, when the Captain ſent a letter, ſtating the defects of the ſhip, and requeſting permiſſion to repair her. The time from this day till the 18th of the month was loſt in altercations reſpecting the af⯑fair at Bonthain Bay; the Governor and Coun⯑cil inſiſting, that Captain Carteret ſhould ſign a formal declaration, that he believed the report of an intention formed at Celebes, for cutting off the ſhip, was falſe and malicious; and the Captain on his part reſolutely perſiſting in his refuſal to ſign any ſuch paper.

On the 18th the Captain learnt that orders had been given for repairing the ſhip at Onruſt, whither a pilot attended her, and where ſhe came to an anchor on the 22d of June; but as the wharfs were pre-engaged by other ſhips, the repairs did not commence till the 24th of Ju⯑ly. On examination, the veſſel was found in ſo very rotten and decayed a condition, that the Dutch carpenter would not undertake her re⯑pair, without ſhifting her whole bottom, till the Captain had certified under his hand, that what ſhould be done was in conſequence of his own [161] expreſs direction. This the Dutchman thought neceſſary, leſt the ſhip ſhould never reach Eng⯑land, and the blame conſequently reſt with him.

During Captain Carteret's ſtay at this port, he frequently viſited M. Houting, an Admiral in the ſervice of the Dutch, a gentleman re⯑markable for his politeneſs and affability, from whom the Captain received ſeveral diſtinguiſh⯑ing marks of kindneſs.—The Governor of Bata⯑via lives with the ſtate of a ſovereign Prince. When he goes publicly abroad he is eſcorted by horſe-guards, and has two black footmen who run before his coach. When any other coach meets that of the Governor, it is drawn on one ſide, and the perſons in it get out to pay their re⯑ſpects; nor, if a coach is behind, muſt it be driven by the Governor's, whatever neceſſity may require its greater ſpeed. The like ho⯑mage is paid to the members of the Council, only that the perſon does not quit his carriage, but ſalutes them ſtanding in it; one black man, with a ſtick in his hand, runs before the coach of a member of the Council, and thinks him⯑ſelf at liberty to puniſh thoſe who do not make a proper obedience.

It was hinted to Captain Carteret, by the landlord of the hotel where he lodged, that his carriage muſt ſtop, if he ſhould meet the Go⯑vernor's, or thoſe of the Council; but the Cap⯑tain diſdaining to pay a degree of homage to [162] the ſervants of the States of Holland, which is not paid to the King of Great Britain, re⯑fuſed to comply; and when the black men were mentioned, he ſaid he knew how to defend him⯑ſelf, and pointed to his piſtols. In a few hours afterwards he was told, from the Governor, that he might act as he pleaſed.

Captain Carteret having engaged ſome Eng⯑liſh ſeamen, ſailed from Onruſt on the 15th of September, and came to an anchor off Princes Iſland, in the Streight of Sunda, on the follow⯑ing day. Having here taken in wood and water, they ſailed on the 25th with a fine gale of wind, which held them during a paſſage of 700 leagues; and on the 23d of November they came to an anchor in Table Bay in the Cape of Good Hope. The Captain having received numberleſs civilities from the Governor and other gentlemen of this place, ſailed on the 6th of January, and on the 20th anchored off the Iſland of St. Helena, from whence he again ſailed on the 24th. On the 31ſt of January they anchored in a bay off the Iſland of Aſ⯑cenſion, where they found an abundance of turtle, many of which were taken; and the ſhip ſailed again on the following day.

It had been accuſtomed to leave on this iſland (which is uninhabited) a letter in a bottle, con⯑taining an account of the name and deſtination of any ſhip which might touch there; and with this cuſtom Captain Carteret complied.

[163]On the 20th of this month a ſhip which had been ſeen the preceding day far to the leeward, but had out-ſailed the Swallow in the night, tacked and ſtood towards her. A boat was ſent on board, in which was a young officer, who, by many artful queſtions, endeavoured to learn from Captain Carteret all the moſt im⯑portant particulars of his voyage; and this piece of ill manners was aggravated, by his in⯑venting a tale to diſguiſe thoſe of his own voy⯑age; for the veſſel he had juſt left was no other than that of M. Bougainville, which was then returning from a voyage round the world. Captain Carteret learnt this circumſtance after⯑wards from the Lieutenant; for the boat's crew, which had brought the French officer on board, had diſcovered every ſecret to one of the Eng⯑liſh crew who ſpoke French. Happily, Cap⯑tain Carteret had kept his own ſecret ſo well, that Monſieur Bougainville was not at all the wiſer for the time he had loſt in the negotiation of this illiberal buſineſs. The Frenchman learnt the name of the Engliſh ſhip from the letter left in the bottle at the iſland of Aſcenſion.

Our adventurers had ſight of the weſtern iſlands on the 7th of March 1769, and came to an anchor at Spithead on the 20th of the ſame month, without meeting with any accident worth recording.

Conſidering the extreme unfitneſs of the Swallow to perform ſuch a voyage; the length [164] of time ſhe was in doing it; the amazing dan⯑gers ſhe eſcaped; and the apparently inſurmount⯑able difficulties ſhe went through; to what can we aſcribe her arriving ſafe in England at laſt, but the merciful interpoſition of a particular pro⯑vidence.

CAPTAIN COOK's VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. In 1768, 1769, 1770 and 1771.

MR. Banks, a gentleman of conſiderable fortune in Lincolnſhire, was induced to undertake this voyage from his natural curioſity, and invincible deſire of attaining knowledge. He had already viſited the banks of Newfound⯑land and Labradore, and was now happy in having an opportunity of obſerving the tranſit of Venus in the ſouthern part of America. He accordingly engaged his friend Dr. Solan⯑der to accompany him in this voyage. This gentleman, who was born in Sweden, and edu⯑cated under the celebrated Linnaeus, had, from his extenſive learning, been appointed to a place in the Britiſh Muſeum, and given the greateſt ſatisfaction in that capacity. Mr. Banks alſo took with him two draftſmen, one to delineate views and figures; the other to paint ſuch ſub⯑jects of natural hiſtory as might preſent them⯑ſelves. He had beſides a ſecretary and four ſervants.

[166]On the 26th of Auguſt, 1768, the Endea⯑vour ſailed from Plymouth, and on the 2d of September they ſaw land between Cape Finiſter and Cape Ortegal, on the coaſt of Gallicia in Spain. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had, du⯑ring this courſe, an opportunity of viewing many marine animals, hitherto unnoticed; a⯑mong theſe was a new ſpecies of an angular figure, near three inches in length and one in thickneſs, having a hollow quite through it, and a brown ſpot at one end. Four of theſe animals were joined together; but upon be⯑ing put into water they ſeparated and ſwam about. They reſembled a gem in brightneſs, and ſhone in the water with fine colours. There was another animal of a more beautiful and lively colour, which was not unlike an opal. About ten leagues from Cape Finiſter, various birds were obſerved, which had not been deſcrib⯑ed by Linnaeus.

The iſlands of Puerto Santo and Madeira were diſcovered on the 12th, and the next day they anchored in Fonchial road. In heaving the anchor, Mr. Weir, the Maſter's mate, was carried overboard and drowned. Mr. Banks found at Madeira a tree, called by the natives Vigniatico, the Laura indicus mentioned by Linnaeus. The wood of this tree can ſcarce be diſtinguiſhed from mahogany, which indu⯑ced this gentleman to believe, that the wood [167] called in England Madeira mahogany, was the Laura indicus; as no mahogany is exported from this iſland. The only article of trade in Madeira is wine, which is made in the follow⯑ing manner; the grapes are put into a ſquare wooden veſſel, the ſize of which is proportioned to the quantity; then the perſons employed take off their cloaths, get into the veſſel, and with their elbows and feet preſs out as much of the juice as they can; in this manner the ſtalks are then tied together, and preſſed under ano⯑ther ſquare piece of wood, by a lever and a ſtone, to extract the remainder of the juice. A whole vintage is frequently ſpoiled by the bad grapes being mixed with the others, which the inhabitants obſtinately refuſe throwing out, as the quantity of wine is increaſed by them.

There are no wheel-carriages in this iſland; the only reſemblance of them is a hollow board, that may be called a ſledge, and which ſerves to carry their wine veſſels. The ſoil is ſo rich, and there is ſuch a variety in the climate, be⯑tween the hills and plains, that there is no ob⯑ject of luxury which grows either in India or Europe, that might not probably be cultivated here. Walnuts, cheſnuts and apples, flouriſh almoſt without culture upon the hills. The pine-apple, the mango, the guava and the ba⯑nana, grow almoſt ſpontaneouſly in the town. The corn is large grained and fine, and it might be produced in great abundance; nevertheleſs, [168] the greateſt part of what is conſumed is im⯑ported. The beef, mutton, and pork, are likewiſe remarkably good, particularly the firſt, which induced the Captain to take ſome on board. Foncho, which is fennel in Portugueſe, gave name to the town of Fonchial, that lies in latitude 20 degrees 33 minutes north, and longitude 16 degrees 49 minutes weſt. It is ſeated at the bottom of a bay, poorly built, though extenſive in proportion to the iſland; the ſtreets are narrow, and very badly paved. In the churches there are great numbers of or⯑naments, with pictures and images of ſaints; the firſt are, for the moſt part, done by mere daubers, and the latter are cloathed in laced habits. A better taſte prevails in ſome of the convents, particularly that of the Franciſcans; here ſimplicity and neatneſs unite, and give us a very favourable idea of theſe good fathers. The infirmary is alſo a building that does ho⯑nour to the architect, and is the moſt conſider⯑able edifice in the whole place. There are ma⯑ny very high hills; Pico Ruivo is near 5100 feet in height, perpendicularly from its baſe. Theſe hills are covered round with vines to a certain height, above which there are great numbers of cheſnut and pine trees, and above them various ſorts of timber, ſo thick as to form foreſts. The Mirmulano and Paobranco, which are found amongſt them, are unknown in Eu⯑rope. The latter is very beautiful, and would [169] be greatly ornamental in our gardens. The in⯑habitants are computed to be between 70 and 80,000; and the revenue ariſing from the cuſtoms is ſuppoſed to amount to 20 or 30,000 pound ſterling per annum. Water, wine, fruit and onions, are here in plenty; ſweat-meats are alſo to be had without any difficulty; but permiſſion muſt be obtained from the Go⯑vernor for poultry and freſh meat. The En⯑deavour ſailed from Madeira September 19. On the 22d they ſaw the Iſlands of Salvages, northward of the Canaries. The chief of theſe iſlands was about 5 leagues to the ſouth one half weſt. Theſe iſlands appear to lie in latitude 30 degrees 11 minutes north. On the 23d they ſaw the Peak of Teneriffe, bearing weſt by ſouth. This mountain is near 15,400 feet high. On the 29th they ſaw Bona Viſta, one of the Cape de Verd Iſlands, lying in latitude 16 degrees north, and longitude 21 degrees 48 minutes weſt. From Teneriffe to Bona Viſta they obſerved flying fiſh in great numbers, which appeared very beautiful, their ſides re⯑ſembling burniſhed ſilver. Mr. Banks went out in a boat on the 7th of October, and caught what is called a Portugueſe man of war, together with ſeveral marine animals of the Moluſca tribe. They had now variable winds, with ſome ſhow⯑ers of rain; and the dampneſs of the air did great injury to their iron utenſils. October [170] 19th Mr. Banks ſhot the black-toed gull, which has not been deſcribed by Linnaeus. The dung of this bird is of a lively red.

They croſſed the line with the uſual ceremo⯑nies on the 25th of October.

When the Endeavour was, on the 28th of October, in the latitude of Ferdinand Noron⯑ha, and in longitude 32 degrees 5 minutes weſt, they looked out for the iſland, and the ſhoals which, according to the charts, lie between it and the main; but neither the iſland or the ſhoals could be diſcovered. On the 29th, in the evening, they ſaw the luminous appearance of the ſea, mentioned by navigators: it emit⯑ted rays of light, reſembling thoſe of lightning. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, not being inclin⯑ed to adopt any of the opinions that had pre⯑vailed with regard to the cauſes of this luminous appearance (ſuch as its being cauſed by fiſh darting at its prey, by the putrefaction of fiſh and other inhabitants of the ſea, and even by electricity) threw out a caſting-net, when they were confirmed in their ſuggeſtion, that it was occaſioned by ſome luminous animal. A ſpe⯑cies of the meduſa was caught, which reſem⯑bled a metallic ſubſtance greatly heated, emit⯑ting a whitiſh light. Some crabs were brought up at the ſame time, which, though exceeding ſmall, gave a very glittering appearance. Theſe animals had hitherto eſcaped the obſervation of all naturaliſts.

[171]Proviſions beginning to fall ſhort, it was de⯑termined to put into Rio de Janeiro. They ſaw the coaſt of Brazil on the 8th of Novem⯑ber, and ſpoke with the people on board a Por⯑tugueſe fiſhing-boat, who informed them, that the land which they ſaw was to the ſouth of Sancto Eſpirito. Mr. Banks bought ſome fiſh of the people in the boat, and was much ſur⯑priſed to find that they refuſed Spaniſh ſilver, and wanted Engliſh ſhillings.

Their interpreters, who were a Venetian and Portugueſe, informed them, that the crew of the fiſhing veſſel declared, they had not ſeen a ſhip for eight years; this however they ſup⯑poſed to be a miſtake, as they ſpoke ſuch im⯑perfect Engliſh, that it was almoſt impoſſible to underſtand them.

On the 13th, in the morning, we made ſail for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, the firſt Lieutenant, was ſent before in the pin⯑nace to the city, to inform the Governor, we put in there for refreſhments and water, and to obtain a pilot. The pinnance returned with⯑out the Lieutenant, who was detained by the Viceroy till the Captain came on ſhore. When the Endeavour came to an anchor, a ten-oared boat filled with ſoldiers came up, and rowed round the ſhip, without any converſation taking place. Soon after another boat came up, with ſeveral of the Viceroy's officers; they enquired [172] whence the Endeavour came; what her cargo conſiſted of; her number of men and guns; and her deſtination. Theſe and ſeveral other queſtions were juſtly anſwered without equivo⯑cation; when they apologized for detaining the Lieutenant, and the other ſteps they had taken, pleading its being cuſtomary.

Captain Cook went on ſhore on the 14th, and obtained leave to purchaſe proviſions, on condition of employing an inhabitant as a fac⯑tor: to this the Captain objected, but in vain, as well as to the ſending a ſoldier in the boat every time ſhe went from the ſhore to the ſhip. Having requeſted, that the gentlemen on board might remain on ſhore whilſt they ſojourned, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to collect plants; theſe requeſts were peremptori⯑ly refuſed. Captain Cook judging the Viceroy imagined they were come to trade, the Captain endeavoured to convince him of his miſtake, by acquainting him, that they were bound to the ſouthward, to obſerve the tranſit of Ve⯑nus over the ſun; a very intereſting object to the advancement of navigation, of which phenomenon he appeared to be totally ignorant. An officer was appointed to attend the Captain; this, which he was told was meant as a com⯑pliment, he would have declined; but the Vice⯑roy was too polite to allow his diſpenſing with the honour.

[173]Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were greatly diſappointed upon the Captain's return, to find they were not permitted to reſide on ſhore, and go up the country; and their chagrin was ſtill far⯑ther increaſed, to hear they were not allowed even to leave the ſhip; the Viceroy having ordered, that only the Captain, and ſuch ſailors as were neceſſary to be upon duty, ſhould be ſuffered to come on ſhore; probably its being reported, that theſe gentlemen came upon this voyage to make diſcoveries and obſervations, and poſſeſ⯑ſed extraordinary abilities for ſuch buſineſs, might occaſion theſe rigid orders. They at⯑tempted, nevertheleſs, to come on ſhore, but were prevented by the guard-boat; though ſe⯑veral of the crew, unknown to the centinel, ſtole out of the cabin window at midnight, let⯑ting themſelves down by a rope into the boat, and driving away by the tide till they were out of hearing; they then rowed to ſome unfrequented part of the ſhore, where they landed, and made excurſions up the country, though not ſo far as they could have wiſhed. When the Captain went on ſhore to remon⯑ſtrate with the Viceroy reſpecting theſe re⯑ſtrictions, the only anſwer that could be obtained was, that he acted in conſequence of his Maſter's orders. Thus ſituated, the Cap⯑tain reſolved to go no more on ſhore, rather than be a priſoner in his own boat, as the officer, who complimented him with his company, wait⯑ed [174] upon him both from and to the ſhore. It was now reſolved to draw up two memorials to the Viceroy; one was written by the Captain, the other by Mr. Banks: they produced an⯑ſwers no way ſatisfactory. Captain Cook and Mr. Banks replied, and ſeveral written remon⯑ſtrances and anſwers paſſed between them and the Viceroy, but to no purpoſe. The Captain judging it neceſſary, in vindication of his com⯑pliance, to urge the Viceroy to ſome act of force in the execution of his orders, he ſent Lieutenant Hicks with a packet (on the 20th) ordering him not to allow a guard in his boat. The officer of the guard-boat finding the Lieu⯑tenant reſolved to obey the Captain's com⯑mand, did not oppoſe him by force, but ac⯑companying the Lieutenant on ſhore, went to the Viceroy, and acquainted him with what had paſſed, which induced his Excellency to refuſe opening the packet, commanding the Lieute⯑nant to return. He found a guard had been put on board his boat in his abſence, and inſiſt⯑ed upon the ſoldiers quitting it. The officer now ſeized the boat's crew, and conducted them to priſon, under an eſcorte; and the Lieute⯑nant was ſent back to the ſhip under a guard. When Mr. Hicks had acquainted the Captain with theſe tranſactions on ſhore, the latter wrote to the Viceroy, demanding his boat and men, and incloſed the memorial, which he would not receive from the hands of the Lieutenant. [175] The bearer of this expreſs was a petty officer, in order to avoid continuing the diſpute about a guard, which a commiſſioned officer muſt have kept up. Having delivered his packet, an anſwer was promiſed.

In the interim, in a ſudden guſt of wind, the long-boat, with four pipes of rum (by the rope breaking that was thrown her from the ſhip) went a-drift windward of her, with a ſmall ſkift of Mr. Banks's that was faſtened to her. The misfortune was ſtill greater as the pinnace was on ſhore. The yawl was manned immediately, but did not return till next morning, when ſhe brought all the people on board. From them Captain Cook learnt, that the long-boat hav⯑ing filled with water, they had brought her to a grappling, and quitted her, and falling in with a reef of rocks on their return, they were com⯑pelled to cut a-drift the little boat belonging to Mr. Banks. In this ſituation the Captain diſ⯑patched another letter to the Viceroy, acquaint⯑ing him with the accident, at the ſame time de⯑ſiring he would aſſiſt them with a boat to reco⯑ver their own: this was accompanied with a freſh demand of the pinnace and her crew. His Excellency at length complied with both the requeſt and demand; and the ſame day they fortunately recovered the long-boat and ſkift. In the Viceroy's anſwer to the Captain's remon⯑ſtrance, he expreſſed ſome doubts of the En⯑deavour being a King's ſhip, and accuſed the [176] crew of ſmuggling. Mr. Banks's ſervants had, its true, by ſtratagem, got on ſhore (the 22d) early in the morning, and remained till night, but brought on board only plants and in⯑ſects. In Mr. Cook's reply, he ſaid he was willing to ſhew his Excellency his commiſſion again, the Viceroy having already ſeen it; and that if any attempt to carry on a contraband trade ſhould be repeated, deſired his Excellency would take the offender into cuſtody. Thus terminated the diſpute.

Mr. Banks (on the 26th in the morning) artfully eluded the vigilance of the guard, and went on ſhore: he avoided the town, and paſſed the day in the fields, where the chief objects of his curioſity lay. The people behaved with civility, invited him to their habitations, and he purchaſed a young pig for eleven ſhillings, and ſome other things. But the next day it was reported, that ſearch was making for him and Dr. Solander, which induced them to lay aſide all thoughts of going again on ſhore.

Being prepared for ſea, with water and pro⯑viſions, they took on board a pilot the 1ſt of December, but the wind being contrary, they were prevented getting out. The next day a Spaniſh packet arrived from Buenos Ayres, for Spain, when the Captain politely offered to take Mr. Cook's diſpatches to Europe; and he accordingly ſent, by that conveyance, all the pa⯑pers that had paſſed between him and the Vice⯑roy, [177] leaving duplicates with his Excellency for his court.

The Endeavour did not get under ſail till the 7th, when having paſſed the Fort the pilot was diſcharged, and the guard boat quitted them at the ſame time. During the laſt three or four days of their remaining at Rio de Janeiro, the air was covered with butterflies, chiefly of one kind.

From the obſervations of the writer of the firſt account of this voyage, we have the follow⯑ing deſcription of the town and country. Rio de Janeiro, is ſuppoſed to have been thus named on account of its being diſcover⯑ed on the feſtival of ſaint Januarius. The town, which is the capital of the dominions of the Portugueſe, in America, borrows its name from the river Januarius.

It is ſituated on the weſt ſide of the river, from which it extends itſelf about three quar⯑ters of a mile. The ground on which it ſtands is a level plain; it is defended on the north ſide by a hill that extends from the river, leav⯑ing a ſmall plain, which contains the ſuburbs and the King's dock. On the ſouth ſide is ano⯑ther hill, running towards the mountains which are behind the town. Some of its ſtreets run parallel from north to ſouth, and are interſected by others at right angles. The principal ſtreet is near an hundred feet in width, and extends from St. Benedict to the foot of Caſtle-hill; [178] the other ſtreets are commonly twenty or thirty feet wide. The houſes adjoining to the principal ſtreet have three ſtories, but in other places they are very irregular, though built after the ſame manner as in Liſbon. In the town are four con⯑vents; the firſt is that of the Benedictines, ſi⯑tuated near its northern extremity; this ſtruc⯑ture affords an agreeable proſpect, and con⯑tains an elegant chapel, which is ornamented with ſeveral valuable paintings. The ſecond is that of the Carmelites, which forms the centre angle of the royal ſquare, and fronts the har⯑bour; its church had fallen ſome time before, but it is again rebuilding in a very elegant man⯑ner, with fine free-ſtone brought thither from Liſbon. The third is that of St. Anthony, ſi⯑tuated on the point of a hill on the ſouth ſide of the town; before this convent ſtands a large baſon of brown granite, in the form of a pa⯑rallelogram, which is employed in waſhing. The fourth is ſituated at the eaſtern extremity of the town, and was formerly the Jeſuits con⯑vent, but is now converted into a military hoſpital.

The Viceroy's palace forms the right angle of the royal ſquare: the palace, mint, ſtables, goal, &c. compoſe but one large building, which has two ſtories, and is ninety feet from the water. In paſſing through the palace, the firſt entrance is to a large hall or guard-room, to which there is an aſcent of three or four ſteps. [179] In the guard-room are ſtationed the body guards who attend the Viceroy, and are relieved every morning between eight and nine. Adjoining to the hall are the ſtables, the priſon being in the back part of the building. Within the guard-room is a flight of ſtairs for aſcending to the upper ſtory; this divides at a landing-place about half way, and forms two branches, one leading to the right, and the other to the left. The former enters a ſaloon, where there are two officers in conſtant attendance; the Viceroy's aid-du-camp at the ſame time waiting in an anti⯑chamber to receive meſſages and deliver orders.

The left wing of the royal ſquare is an irre⯑gular building, which conſiſts chiefly of ſhops occupied by trading people. In the center of the ſquare is a fountain ſupplied with water from a ſpring at the diſtance of three miles, from which it is brought by an aqueduct. From this fountain both the ſhipping and inhabitants are ſupplied with water, the place being con⯑tinually crowded with negroes of both ſexes waiting to fill their jars. At every corner of the ſtreets is an altar. The market place ex⯑tends from the north-eaſt end of the ſquare a⯑long the ſhore; and this ſituation is very con⯑venient for the fiſhing-boats, and thoſe who bring vegetables from the other ſide of the river to market. Negroes are almoſt the only people employed in ſelling the different [180] commodities expoſed in the market, and they employ their leiſure time in ſpinning of cotton.

Without the Jeſuits college on the ſhore is a village called Neuſtra Seignora del Gloria, which is joined to the town by a very few intervening houſes. Three or four hundred yards within the Jeſuits convent ſtands a very high caſtle, but it is falling to decay. The biſhop's palace is about three hundred yards behind the Bene⯑dictine convent, and contiguous to it is a ma⯑gazine of arms, ſurrounded by a rampart.

The gentry here keep their chaiſes, which are drawn by mules; the ladies however uſe a ſe⯑dan chair, boarded before and behind, with curtains on each ſide, which is carried by two negroes, depending from a pole connected to the top of the chair by two iron rods coming from under its bottom, one on each ſide, and reſting at the top. The inhabitants likewiſe uſe ham⯑mocks or rajas, ſupported in the ſame manner, and ſurrounded with curtains.

In this town the apothecaries ſhops commonly ſerve the purpoſes of a coffee-houſe, people meet⯑ing in them to drink capillaire, and play at back-gammon. The gentry when ſeen abroad are well dreſſed, though at home they are but looſely covered: the ſhopkeepers have com⯑monly ſhort hair, and wear linen jackets with ſleeves. Beggars, who infeſt the ſtreets of [181] moſt European cities, are not to be found in this.

With regard to the women, it is on all hands agreed, that the females of the Portugueſe and Spaniſh ſettlements in South America, are leſs averſe to granting amorous favours, than thoſe of any other civilized part of the globe. Ac⯑cording to Dr. Solander's account, as ſoon as the evening began, females appeared on all ſides in every window, and particularized thoſe of the male ſex they liked by giving them noſe⯑gays; the Doctor and two other gentlemen re⯑ceived ſo many of theſe bouquets, that they threw handfuls away.

The climate of Rio de Janeiro is both agreeable and healthy, being free from many inconveni⯑encies that are incident to other tropical coun⯑tries. The air is but ſeldom immoderately hot, as the ſea breeze conſtantly begins to blow about ten o'clock in the morning, and continues until night, when it is generally ſucceeded by a land wind, though this does not always happen. The ſeaſons are divided into rainy and dry; though their ſtationary periods have lately be-become very irregular and uncertain: indeed the rainy ſeaſons had almoſt entirely failed the four years preceding their arrival, at which time the rains had juſt begun, and they fell in large quantities during their ſtay: formerly the ſtreets have been overflowed by the rain, and rendered impaſſable except with canoes.

[182]The adjacent country is mountainous, and chiefly covered with wood, but a ſmall part of it appearing to be cultivated. The ſoil near the town is looſe and ſandy, but farther from the river it is a fine black mould. It produces all the tropical fruits, ſuch as oranges, lemons, limes, melons, mangoes, cocoa-nuts, &c. in great abundance, and without much cultivation; a circumſtance which is very agreeable to the inhabitants, who are very indolent.

The mines, which lie far up in the country, are very rich; but their ſituation is concealed, and nobody can view them, except thoſe who work in them. The experiment is very dan⯑gerous, for every one found upon the road which leads to them is hung upon the next tree, unleſs he can give a ſatisfactory account of the cauſe of his being in that ſituation. About twelve months before their arrival, the govern⯑ment had detected ſeveral jewellers in carrying on an illicit trade for diamonds with the ſlaves in the mines; and immediately after a law paſſed, making it felony to work at the trade, or have any tools in poſſeſſion, the civil officers having indiſcriminately ſeized on all that could be found. Near forty thouſand negroes are an⯑nually imported to dig in the mines; theſe works are ſo pernicious to the human frame, and oc⯑caſion ſo great a mortality amongſt the poor wretches employed in them, that in the year [183] 1766 twenty thouſand more were draughted from the town of Rio, to ſupply the deficiency of the former number.

There are ſeveral courts of juſtice in the town, at all of which the Viceroy preſides; in criminal cauſes the ſentence is regulated by a majority of voices in the ſupreme court. The Viceroy has a Council appointed from Europe by the king, to aſſiſt him in his private depart⯑ment, where he has two voices.

The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro maintain a whale-fiſhery, which ſupplies them with lamp-oil. They import their brandy from the Azores, their ſlaves and Eaſt India goods from their ſettlements in Africa, their wine from Madeira, and their European goods from Liſbon.

The current coin is Portugueſe, which is ſtruck here; the ſilver pieces are called Petacks, of different value; and the copper are five and ten ree pieces.

Rio de Janeiro is very uſeful for ſhips that are in want of refreſhment; the harbour is ſafe and commodious, and may be diſtinguiſhed by a remarkable hill, in the ſhape of a cone, at the weſt point of the bay. The entrance is not wide, but it is eaſy, from the ſea breeze, which prevails from noon to ſun-ſet, for any ſhip to enter before the wind. The entrance of the narrow part is defended by two forts, La Cruz and Lozia; they are about three quarters of a [184] mile from each other. The bottom being rocky, renders it dangerous to anchor here, but this may be avoided by keeping the middle of the channel. The whole coaſt abounds with a very great variety of fiſh, among which are dolphins and mackrel.

On the 9th of December they took out of the ſea an incredible number of atoms, of a yel⯑lowiſh colour, few of them more than the 50th part of an inch in length; it could not even with a microſcope be determined whether they were animal or vegetable ſubſtances. Theſe atoms tinged the ſea in ſuch a manner, as to cover it with broad ſtreaks of a colour ſimilar to themſelves, the greateſt part of a mile in length, and ſeveral hundred yards in width.

Thurſday, December 8, 1768, having procured all neceſſary ſupplies, they left Rio de Janeiro; they did not meet with any material occurrence from this time to the 22d, when they diſcovered numerous birds of the Proſillaria genus, in latitude 39 degrees 37 minutes ſouth, and lon⯑gitude 49 degrees 16 minutes weſt; they were alſo frequently ſurrounded by great numbers of porpoiſes, of a ſingular ſpecies, which were about fifteen feet in length, and of an aſh-co⯑lour. On the 23d they obſerved an eclipſe of the moon; and about ſeven o'clock in the morning a ſmall white cloud appeared in the weſt, from which a train of fire iſſued, extend⯑ing [185] itſelf weſterly: about two minutes after they heard two diſtinct loud exploſions, imme⯑diately ſucceeding each other like canon, after which the cloud ſoon diſappeared.

On the 24th they caught a large loggerhead tortoiſe, weighing one hundred and fifty pounds. They likewiſe ſhot ſeveral birds, among which was an albetroſs, meaſuring between the tips of its wings nine feet and an inch; and from its beak to the tail two feet one inch and an half. On the 30th they ran upwards of fifty leagues, through vaſt numbers of land inſects, ſome in the air, and others upon the water; they ap⯑peared to reſemble exactly the flies that are ſeen in England, though they were thirty leagues from land, and ſome of theſe inſects never quit it beyond a few yards. Captain Cook imagined he was at this time nearly oppoſite to the bay called Sans fond (without bottom) where it is ſuppoſed, by ſome writers, that the continent of America is divided by a paſſage; but it was the opinion of the gentlemen on board, that there might be a large river, which probably had occaſioned an inundation. The 31ſt they had much thunder, lightning, and rain: this and the three following days they ſaw ſeveral whales, and likewiſe ſeveral birds, about the ſize of a pidgeon, with white bellies and grey beaks.

January 4, 1769, they ſaw an appearance of land, which they miſtook for Pepys' iſland; [186] but on their ſtanding towards it, it proved, what the ſailors call a Fog Bank. The ſhip's crew were about this time, on their complain⯑ing of cold, furniſhed with each a pair of trow⯑ſers, and a jacket made of the ſtuff called Fear⯑nought. They ſaw on the 11th, after paſſing Falkland's Iſland, at about four leagues diſ⯑tance, Terra Del Fuego. Smoke was perceived, which they took for a ſignal, as it did not con⯑tinue after they had paſſed along the ſhore to the ſouth-eaſt. On the 14th they entered the ſtreight of Le Maire; but the tide being againſt them, they were driven out with great violence, and the waves ran ſo high, that the ſhip's bow⯑ſprit was frequently under water; at length however they got anchorage, at the entrance of a little cove, which Captain Cook called ST. VINCENT'S BAY.

The weeds, which here grow upon rocky ground, are very remarkable; they appear above the ſurface in eight and nine fathoms water; the leaves are four feet in length, and many of the ſtalks, though not more than an inch and a half in circumference, above 100. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander having been on ſhore ſome hours, they returned with more than a hundred different plants and flowers, hitherto unnoticed by the European botaniſts. The country in general near the bay was flat, and the bottom particularly was a plain covered with graſs; here was plenty of wood, water and fowl, winter's [187] bark was found in great abundance. The trees are a ſpecies of the birch, but are neither lofty nor large; the wood is white, and they bear a ſmall leaf. Here are alſo white and red cran⯑berries.

Sunday 15, having anchored in 12 fathoms, upon coral rocks, before a ſmall cove, diſtant from ſhore about a mile, two of the natives came down upon the beach, in expectation that they would land; but this ſituation affording little ſhelter, the Captain got under ſail again, and the natives retired.

About two o'clock they anchored in the bay of Good Succeſs, and the Captain went on ſhore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to ſearch for a watering-place, and confer with the Indians. Theſe gentlemen proceeded about a hundred yards before the Captain, when two of the Indians having advanced forward and ſeated themſelves, they roſe, upon Mr. Banks and the Doctor's coming up, and each of them threw away a ſmall ſtick, which they had be⯑fore in their hands; this they did in ſuch a direction, that the ſticks flew both from them⯑ſelves and the ſtrangers, which they meant as a token of peace, and a teſtimonial of their re⯑nouncing weapons; they then returned briſkly towards their companions, who had remained at ſome diſtance behind, and made ſigns to the ſtrangers to advance, which they accord⯑ingly complied with. The reception the gen⯑tlemen [188] met with was friendly, though the man⯑ner was uncouth. The civility was returned, by the diſtribution of beads and ribbons, with which the Indians were much pleaſed. After a mutual confidence had been thus eſtabliſhed, the reſt of the Engliſh party joined, and a ge⯑neral converſation, though of a ſingular kind, enſued. Three of the Indians now returned with the Captain and his friends to the ſhip, whom they cloathed with jackets, and gave them bread, jerked beef, &c. part of which they eat, and carried the remainder on ſhore. They refuſed to drink rum or brandy, after taſting them, intimating by ſigns that it burnt their throats. This circumſtance may perhaps corroborate the opinion of thoſe who think wa⯑ter the natural drink of mankind, as of all other animals. One of theſe Indians made ſe⯑veral long and loud ſpeeches, though no part of either was intelligible to any of us. Ano⯑ther of them ſtole the covering of a globe, which he concealed under his ſkin garment. After remaining on board about two hours, they returned on ſhore, Mr. Banks accompanying them. He conducted them to their compani⯑ons, who appeared no way curious to know what their friends had ſeen, and the latter were as little diſpoſed to relate as the others were to enquire. None of theſe people exceeded five feet ten inches in height, yet their bodies ap⯑peared large and robuſt, though their limbs [189] were ſmall. They had broad flat faces, low foreheads, high cheeks, noſes inclining to flat⯑neſs, wide noſtrils, ſmall black eyes, large mouths, ſmall but indifferent teeth, and black ſtrait hair, falling down over their ears and forehead, which was commonly ſmeared with brown and red paints; and, like all the original natives of America, they were beardleſs. Their garments were the ſkins of guanicos and ſeals, which they wrapped round their ſhoulders. The men likewiſe wear on their heads a bunch of yarn, ſpun from the wool of guanicos, which falls over their foreheads, and ties behind with the ſinews or tendons of ſome animal. Many of both ſexes were painted in different parts of their bodies, with red, white, and brown co⯑lours; and had alſo three or four perpendicu⯑lar lines pricked acroſs their cheeks and noſes. The women have a ſmall ſtring tied round each ancle, and wear each a flap of ſkin tied round the middle. They carry the children on their backs, and are generally employed in domeſtic labour and drudgery.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by ſervants, ſet out from the ſhip on the 16th, in the morning, with the deſign of going into the country as far as they could that day, and returning in the evening. Having entered a wood, they aſcended the hill through a pathleſs wilderneſs till the afternoon. After they had reached what they had taken for a plain, they [190] were greatly diſappointed in finding it a ſwamp, covered with birch, the buſhes interwoven, and ſo inflexible they could not be divided; how⯑ever, as they were not above three feet high, they ſtept over them; but they were up to the an⯑cles in the boggy ground. The morning had been very fine, but the weather now became cold and diſagreeable; the blaſts of wind were very piercing, and a ſhower of ſnow fell. They nevertheleſs purſued their route, in expectation of finding a better road. Before they had got over this ſwamp, an accident happened that greatly diſconcerted them; Mr. Buchan, one of the draughtſmen Mr. Banks had brought out, fell into a fit. It was abſolutely neceſſary to ſtop and kindle a fire, and ſuch as were moſt fatigued remained to aſſiſt him; but Meſſrs. Banks, Solander, Green and Monkhouſe, pro⯑ceeded and attained the ſpot they had in view. Here they found a great variety of plants, that gratified their curioſity, and repaid them for their toil.

Upon returning to the reſt of the company, amidſt the ſnow which fell in greater abundance, and being pinched with the cold that was now become more intenſe, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. They had previouſly ſent Mr. Monkhouſe and Mr. Green back to Mr. Buchan, and thoſe who remained with him, in order to bring them to a hill, which was con⯑jectured to lie in a better track for returning [191] to the wood, and was accordingly fixed on as a place of rendezvous. They reſolved from this hill to paſs through the ſwamp, which this way did not appear to be more than half a mile in extent, into the covert of the wood, in which they propoſed building a hut and kindling a fire, to defend them from the ſeverity of the weather. The whole party accordingly met at the place appointed about eight in the evening, whilſt it was ſtill day-light, and proceeded to⯑wards the next valley. Dr. Solander having often paſſed mountains in cold countries, was ſen⯑ſible that extreme cold, when joined with fa⯑tigue, occaſions a drowſineſs, that is not eaſily reſiſted; he accordingly intreated his friends to keep in motion, however diſagreeable it might be to them; his words were, ‘"Whoever ſits down, will ſleep; and whoever ſleeps, will wake no more."’ Every one ſeemed accord⯑ingly armed with reſolution; but on a ſudden the cold became ſo very intenſe, as to threaten the moſt direful effects. It was very remarka⯑ble, that Dr. Solander himſelf, who had ſo for⯑cibly admoniſhed and alarmed his party, ſhould be the firſt who inſiſted upon being ſuffered to repoſe. In ſpite of the moſt earneſt intreaties of his friends, he lay down amidſt the ſnow, and it was with great difficulty they kept the Doctor awake. One of the black ſervants be⯑came alſo weary and faint, and was upon the point of following the Doctor's example. Mr. [192] Buchan was therefore detached with a party to make a fire at the firſt commodious ſpot they could meet with. Mr. Banks, with four more, remained with the Doctor and Richmond the black, who, with the utmoſt difficulty, were induced to come on; but when they had tra⯑verſed the greateſt part of the ſwamp, they expreſſed their inability of going any farther. When the black was informed, that if he re⯑mained there he would ſoon be frozen to death; he replied, that he was ſo exhauſted with fa⯑tigue, that death would be a relief to him. Doctor Solander ſaid he was not unwilling to go, but that he muſt firſt take ſome ſleep, not⯑withſtanding what he had before declared to the company. Thus reſolved, they both ſat down, ſupported by buſhes, and in a ſhort time fell faſt aſleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced party, that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks then waked the Doctor, who had almoſt loſt the uſe of his limbs already, though it was but a few minutes ſince he ſat down; he never⯑theleſs conſented to go on. Every meaſure ta⯑ken to relieve the black proved ineffectual, he remained motionleſs, and they were obliged to leave him to the care of the other black ſervant and a ſailor, who appeared to have been the leaſt hurt by the cold, and they were to be re⯑lieved, as ſoon as two others were ſufficiently warmed to ſupply their places. The Doctor [193] was with much difficulty got to the fire. Thoſe who were ſent to relieve the companions of Richmond, returned in about half an hour, without being able to find them. What ren⯑dered the mortification ſtill greater was, that a bottle of rum, the whole ſtock of the party, could not be found, and was judged to have been left to one of the three who were miſſing. There was a fall of ſnow, which inceſſantly continued for near two hours, and there remained no hopes of ſeeing the three abſentees again, at leaſt, alive. About 12 o'clock, however, a great ſhouting was heard at a diſtance, which gave inexpreſſible ſatisfaction to every one pre⯑ſent. Mr. Banks and four others went forth and met the ſailor, with juſt ſtrength enough to walk; he was immediately ſent to the fire, and they proceeded to ſeek for the two others. They found Richmond upon his legs, but in⯑capable of moving them; the other black was lying ſenſeleſs upon the ground. All endea⯑vours to bring them to the fire were fruitleſs, nor was it poſſible to kindle one upon the ſpot, on account of the ſnow that had fallen, and was ſtill falling, ſo that there was no alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two un⯑fortunate negroes to their fate, making them, however, a bed of boughs of trees, and cover⯑ing them very thick with the ſame.

As all hands had been employed in endea⯑vouring to move the two blacks to the fire, and [194] had therefore been expoſed to the cold for near an hour and a half, ſome of them began to be afflicted in the ſame manner as thoſe they went to relieve. Briſcoe, another of Mr. Banks's ſervants, in particular, began to loſe his ſenſibi⯑lity. They at length reached the fire, and paſſed the night in a very diſagreeable manner. The party that ſet out from the ſhip conſiſted of twelve, of whom two were already judged to be dead: it was doubtful whether a third would be able to return on board; and Mr. Buchan, a fourth, ſeemed threatened again with his fits. The ſhip was at the diſtance of a long day's journey, through an unfrequented wood, in which they might probably be bewildered till night; and being equipped only for a journey of a few hours, they had not proviſions left ſufficient to afford the company a ſingle meal.

On the 17th in the morning, at day-break, nothing preſented itſelf to view all around but ſnow, the trees being equally covered with it as the ground; and the blaſts of wind were ſo violent and frequent, that their journey was rendered impracticable, and there was much rea⯑ſon to dread periſhing with cold and famine. However, about ſix in the morning they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being deliver⯑ed, by diſcovering the ſun through the clouds, which gradually diminiſhed. Previous to their ſetting out, meſſengers were diſpatched to the [195] unhappy negroes, who returned with the me⯑lancholy news of their death.

Though the ſky had flattered their hopes, the ſnow ſtill continued falling very faſt, which prevented them beginning their journey ſo ſoon as was propoſed; but a breeze ſpringing up about 8 o'clock, added to the influence of the ſun, began to clear the air; and the ſnow fall⯑ing in large flakes from the trees, announced a thaw. The force of hunger prevailed over every other conſideration, and induced them, after having equally divided the ſmall remains of their proviſions, to ſet forward on their journey about 10 in the morning.

In about three hours, to their great aſtoniſh⯑ment and ſatisfaction, they found themſelves upon the ſhore, much nearer to the ſhip than their moſt ſanguine expectations could have flat⯑tered them. When they took a retroſpect of their former route from the ſea, they found, that inſtead of aſcending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle almoſt round the country. The congratulations every one on board expreſſed at their return, can better be imagined than expreſſed.

On the 20th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again on ſhore, and landed in the bottom of the bay, when they collected many ſhells and plants hitherto unknown. They returned on board to dinner, and afterwards went to vi⯑ſit an Indian town about two miles up the coun⯑try. [196] The acceſs was difficult on account of the mud. When they approached the town, two of the Indians came out to meet them: they began to ſhout in the ſame unmeaning manner as they had before done on board the ſhip. After this had continued for ſome time, they conducted Mr. Banks and the Doctor to the town. It was ſeated on a ſmall hill, over-ſhaded with wood, and conſiſted of about a dozen huts; conſtructed without art or regularity. They were compoſ⯑ed of a few poles inclining towards each other, in the ſhape of a ſugar-loaf, which were cover⯑ed on the weather-ſide with graſs and boughs; and on the other ſide a ſpace was left open, which ſerved at once for a fire-place and a door. The huts that had been ſeen in St. Vincent's Bay were of the ſame kind. A little graſs ſerved for beds and chairs, and their utenſils conſiſted of a baſket for the hand, a ſatchel to hang upon the back, and a bladder for water; out of which they drank through a hole near the top. This town was inhabited by a ſmall tribe, conſiſting of about 50 men, women and chil⯑dren. Their bows and arrows were conſtruct⯑ed with neatneſs and ingenuity: they were made of wood highly poliſhed; and the point, which was either glaſs or flint, was fitted with much ſkill. Mr. Banks obſerved glaſs and flint amongſt them unwrought, with cloth, canvaſs, rings and buttons, &c. it was therefore judged, that they travelled at times to the north, as no ſhip

[197] had touched at this part of Terra del Fuego for ſome years.

Neither did they teſtify any ſurpriſe at the ſight of fire-arms, and appeared to be well ac⯑quainted with their uſe. Probably the ſpot on which Mr. Banks and the Doctor met them, was not a fixed habitation; their houſes not being erected to ſtand any length of time, and they were deſtitute of a boat or canoe. They did not ſeem to have any form of government a⯑mong them, nor did there appear any kind of ſubordination. Theſe people appeared upon the whole to be the out-caſts of human nature, whoſe lives were paſſed in wandering in a forlorn manner over dreary waſtes—whoſe only dwelling was a wretched hovel, ſuch as has been de⯑ſcribed, and their cloaths ſcarcely ſufficient to prevent their periſhing with cold in the ſummer of this country, much leſs in the extreme ſeve⯑rity of winter; their only food was ſhell-fiſh, which muſt ſoon be exhauſted at any one ſpot; deſtitute of every convenience ariſing from the rudeſt art, or even an implement to dreſs their food. Such were theſe people, who nevertheleſs appeared content; ſo little does refinement or luxury promote happineſs.

They obſerved no quadruped animals except ſeals, ſea-lions and dogs. Mr. Banks ſaw, from a hill, the impreſſion of the foot-ſteps of a large beaſt on the ſurface of a bog, but he could not determine of what kind it was. This gentle⯑man [198] obſerved no land-birds larger than an Eng⯑liſh black-bird, except hawks and vultures; there were however ducks, and other water fowl in abundance; likewiſe ſhell-fiſh, muſcles, clams and limpets in great plenty.

It is remarkable, that in this country, though uncleared, there was no ſpecies of hurtful or troubleſome animals. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found a great variety of plants. The beach and the birch may be uſed for timber. The ſcurvy-graſs and wild celery, it is imagin⯑ed, contain antiſcorbutic qualities; and may therefore be of ſervice to the crews of ſuch ſhips as hereafter touch at this place. The for⯑mer is found in abundance near ſprings and in damp places, particularly at the watering-place in the Bay of Good Succeſs, and reſem⯑bles the cuckow-flower or lady's-ſmock in Eng⯑land. The wild-celery reſembles the celery in our gardens, but the leaves are of a deeper green. It grows in great plenty near the beach, and upon the land above the ſpring-tides; and taſtes like parſley mixed with celery. In the morning of Sunday, January 22, Captain Cook having got in his wood and water, ſailed out of the bay, and ſteered his courſe through the ſtreight.

The generality of writers, who have deſcribed the iſland of Terra del Fuego, have repreſent⯑ed it as covered with ſnow, and deſtitute of wood. In this however they are evidently miſ⯑taken, [199] and their error muſt have ariſen from having viſited it in the winter ſeaſon, when it poſſibly is covered with ſnow. The crew of the Endeavour perceived trees when they were at a conſiderable diſtance from the iſland, and on their nearer approach, they found the ſea coaſt and the ſides of the hills clothed with an agreeable verdure. The ſummit of the hills are barren, but the vallies are rich, and a brook is to be found at the foot of almoſt every hill; the water has a reddiſh tinge, but is not ill taſt⯑ed, and was ſome of the beſt Captain Cook took in during his whole voyage.

The ſtreight of Le Maire is bounded on the weſt by Terra del Fuego, and on the eaſt by the weſt end of Staten Land, and is near five leagues in length, and as many in breadth. The bay of Good Succeſs is ſeated about the middle of it on the ſide of Terra del Fuego, which preſents itſelf upon entering the ſtreight from the northward; and the ſouth head of it may be diſtinguiſhed by a land-mark, reſembling a road from the ſea to the country. It affords good anchorage, and plenty of wood and water. Staten Land did not appear to Captain Cook in the manner deſcribed in Lord Anſon's Voyage; the horror and wildneſs with which it is there depicted was not diſcernable to Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen; on the con⯑trary, the land was neither deſtitute of wood nor verdure, nor covered with ſnow, and on [200] the north ſide there appeared bays and harbours. This difference may alſo probably ariſe from their not having viſited the place in the ſame ſeaſon of the year.

Thurſday, January 26, Capt. Cook ſailed from Cape Horn. The fartheſt ſouthern lati⯑tude he made was 60 degrees 10 minutes, by 74 degrees 30 minutes weſt. The weather being very calm, Mr. Banks ſailed in a ſmall boat to ſhoot birds, when he killed ſome ſheer-waters and albatroſſes; the latter were larger than thoſe caught to the north of the ſtreight; the ſheer-waters were leſs, and their backs darker coloured. The albatroſſes proved very good eating.

Notwithſtanding the doubling of Cape Horn is repreſented as a very dangerous courſe, and that it is generally thought paſſing through the ſtreight of Magellan is leſs perilous, the En⯑deavour doubled it with as little danger as the North Foreland on the Kentiſh coaſt; the hea⯑vens were fair, the wind temperate, the wea⯑ther pleaſant, and, being near ſhore, they had a very diſtinct view of the coaſt.

Wedneſday, March 1, Captain Cook was in latitude 38 degrees 44 minutes ſouth, and lon⯑gitude 110 degrees 33 minutes weſt, as well by obſervation as by the log; which concurrence, after a courſe of 660 leagues, was judged very ſingular; from whence it was plain, he had no currents that affected the ſhip, and moſt proba⯑bly [201] had not approached any land of great ex⯑tent, as there are always currents near lands of con⯑ſiderable compaſs. Mr. Banks killed more than ſixty birds in one day, and he caught two foreſt flies of the ſame ſpecies, but never yet deſcrib⯑ed: he alſo found a cuttle fiſh, which had juſt been killed by the birds; it was different from the fiſhes of this name, met with in the European ſeas, having a double row of ſharp talons, re⯑ſembling thoſe of a cat, which iſſued or retracted at will. This fiſh made excellent ſoup.

Saturday, the 25th, on account of a ſquabble about a bit of ſeal-ſkin, which he had taken in a frolic, but which was repreſented to his officer as a theft, one of the marines, a young fellow about twenty, threw himſelf overboard, and was drowned.

About 10 o'clock, Tueſday, April 4, Peter Briſcoe, ſervant to Mr. Banks, diſcovered land to the ſouth, about three or four leagues diſ⯑tant. The Captain immediately hauled up for it, and found it to be an iſland of an oval form, with a lake or lagoon in the center, that ex⯑tended over the greateſt part of it; the border of land which ſurrounded the lake was in many places low and narrow, eſpecially towards the ſouth, where the beach conſiſted of a reef of rocks; three places on the north ſide had the ſame appearance. This diſmembrance of the firm land, made the whole reſemble ſeveral woody iſlands. To the weſt was a large clump of trees, and in the center two cocoa-nut trees. [202] Captain Cook came within a mile on the north ſide, but though he caſt a line of 130 fathom, he found no bottom, and could not meet with any anchorage. The iſland appeared covered with trees of different ſorts, but the gentlemen on board could not aſcertain any, with glaſſes, except palm-nuts and cocoa-nuts; there were ſeveral natives viſible on ſhore; they ſeemed tall, with remarkable large heads, which might probably be increaſed by ſome bandage; their hair was black, and their complexions copper colour. There appeared along the beach, a⯑breaſt of the ſhip, ſome of theſe inhabitants, with pikes or poles in their hands, which ſeemed twice the height of themſelves: they at this time appeared naked; but when they retired, upon the ſhip's paſſing the iſland, they put on a covering of a light colour. Some clumps of palm-trees ſerved them for habitations, and at a diſtance reſembled hilly ground, and the groves had a very happy effect. This iſland was in la⯑titude 18 degrees ſouth longitude, 139 28 weſt, and was named LAGOON ISLAND.

Captain Cook ſaw land again in the afternoon to the north-weſt. He reached it by ſun-ſet, when it appeared a low iſland covered with wood, in form circular, about a mile in circum⯑ference. No inhabitants were viſible, nor any cocoa-nut trees; though the Endeavour had reached the ſhore within half a mile, yet the ſland appeared covered with verdure of various tinges. This iſland, which is diſtant from that [203] of Lagoon, about ſeven leagues north 62 weſt. The gentlemen on board named THRUMB CAP.

Wedneſday the 5th they continued their courſe with a fine trade wind, and about three o'clock diſcovered land to the weſt. This was a low iſland between 10 and 12 leagues in circum⯑ference; it reſembled in form a bow, the cord and arch forming the land, and the interſtice marking the water; the beach was flat, with⯑out any viſible herbage upon it, being covered with ſea-weeds. Its length was between three and four leagues, and its width about 200 yards; the bow terminated with two large tufts of co⯑coa-nut trees; the arch was covered with trees of various heights, and of different verdure; ſome parts of it, however, was low, and re⯑ſembled the cord. They ſailed along the beach, within a league, till ſun-ſet, when they judged they were half way between the two tufts of trees; here they ſounded. This iſland, from the ſmoke that was diſcovered, appeared to be inhabited, and it was named BOW ISLAND. Captain Cook's ſecond Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, ſaid, after they had ſailed by the iſland, that he had perceived ſeveral of the natives under the firſt clump of trees, that he had diſcrimi⯑nated their houſes, and obſerved many canoes hauled up. But he was the only perſon who made theſe obſervations, though there were ſe⯑veral upon deck beſides himſelf.

About noon, on Thurſday the 6th, they ſaw [204] land again to the weſt, and at three o'clock they came up with it. This land ſeemed divided into two iſlands, or rather collections of iſlands, their extent being near nine leagues. The two largeſt were divided from each other by a ſtreight of near half a mile in breadth.

Some of theſe iſlands were ten miles or more in length, but appeared like long narrow ſtrings of land, not above a quarter of a mile broad; they ſeemed, however, to produce trees of different kinds, among which was the cocoa-nut tree. Several of the inhabitants came out in their canoes, and two of them appeared to have a deſign of coming on board; but they, with the reſt, ſtopped at the reef. When Captain Cook had got about a league from the ſhore, he perceived ſome of the natives following in a canoe, with a ſail: he did not think proper to wait for her, and though ſhe had paſſed the reef, ſhe diſcontinued her courſe. Theſe peo⯑ple appeared to be about our ſize, and well made: their complexion was brown, and they ſeemed naked; they had, for the moſt part, two weapons in their hands; one was a thin long pole, with a kind of ſpear at the end; the other reſembled a paddle; ſome of their canoes were conſtructed to carry not more than three men; others had on board ſix or ſeven; one hoiſted a ſail, which, upon the falling of a ſhower of rain, was taken down and converted into an awning. It could not be determined [205] whether the ſignals made by the people on ſhore were deſigned to deter the Endeavour's com⯑pany from landing, or as an invitation to come on ſhore; theſe waved their hats, the others anſwered by ſhouting. The Captain did not judge it prudent or merciful to be convinced in this reſpect, as the iſland appeared of no im⯑portance, and the crew were not deſtitute of any thing it could produce; and as it muſt have proved a bloody conteſt on the ſide of the un⯑armed Indians. This curioſity was therefore laid aſide, in expectation of ſoon diſcovering the iſland, where they had been directed to make their aſtronomical obſervations, the natives of which, it is reaſonable to conjecture, would make no oppoſition to the landing of the gen⯑tlemen on board, having already experienced the danger of reſiſtance.

Captain Cook diſcovered another iſland on the ſeventh, about ſix in the morning, which was judged to be in compaſs about five miles. It was very low, with a piece of water in the center, and appeared to abound in wood, and to be co⯑vered with verdure, but no inhabitants were viſible. It was called BIRD ISLAND, from the number of birds that were flying about.

Saturday 8, in the afternoon, they ſaw land to the north, and in the evening came a-breaſt of it, at about five miles diſtance. This land ſeemed to be a chain of low iſlands, it was of an oval figure, and conſiſted of coral and ſand, [206] with a few clumps of ſmall trees, and in the middle of it was a lagoon. It was, from its ap⯑pearance, called CHAIN ISLAND. They ſaw ſmoke, which aroſe from different parts, by which they were convinced it was inhabited.

On Monday the 10th, after a tempeſtuous night, Captain Cook ſaw Oſnaburgh Iſland; it is called by the natives Maite. This iſland is high and circular, about four miles in circum⯑ference: it is partly naked and rocky, and partly covered with trees.

The ſame day, upon their looking out for the iſland to which they were deſtined, they ſaw land a-head. The next morning it appeared very high and mountainous, and it was known to be King George the IIId's Iſland, ſo named by Captain Wallis, but by the natives called Otaheite. The calms prevented the Endeavour from approaching it till the morning of the 12th, when a breeze ſpringing up, before 11 ſeveral canoes were making towards the ſhip; only a few approached, and the people on board thoſe that came the neareſt would not come on board Captain Cook. Each canoe had in it young plantains, and branches of trees. They were brought, as Captain Cook was afterwards informed, as tokens of peace and friendſhip, and they were handed up the ſides of the ſhip by the people in one of the canoes, who made ſig⯑nals in a very expreſſive manner, intimating, that they deſired theſe emblems of pacification [207] ſhould be placed in a conſpicuous part of the ſhip; and they were accordingly ſtuck amongſt the rigging, at which they teſtified their appro⯑bation. Their cargoes conſiſting of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread-fruit, apples and figs, which were very acceptable to the crew, and were then purchaſed.

In the evening they opened the north-weſt point, and ſaw York Iſland, ſo named by the crew of the Dolphin. They lay off and on all night, and in the morning of the 13th they en⯑tered Port Royal Harbour, in the iſland of Otaheite, and anchored within half a mile of the ſhore. A great number of the natives im⯑mediately came off in their canoes, bringing with them bananas, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, apples, and ſome hogs, which they bartered with the ſhip's crew for beads and other trinkets.

The tree that bears the bread-fruit is about the ſize of the horſe-cheſnut; its leaves are near a foot and a half long, in ſhape oblong, reſembling, in almoſt every reſpect, thoſe of the fig-tree; its fruit is not unlike the cantaloupe melon, either in ſize or ſhape; it is incloſed in a thin ſkin, and its core is as large as a perſon's thumb; it is ſomewhat of the conſiſtency of new bread, and as white as the blanched almon: it divides into parts, and they roaſt it before it is eaten; it has little or no taſte. An elderly man, named Owhaw, who was known to Mr. Gore and others, who had viſited this iſland with Captain Wallis, came on [208] board, and as he was conſidered a uſeful man, the Captain endeavoured to gratify all his en⯑quiries. Captain Cook now drew up ſeveral neceſſary rules for the regulation of their traffic with the inhabitants, and ordered that they ſhould be punctually obſerved.

When the ſhip was properly ſecured, the Captain went on ſhore with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, a party under arms, and their friend the old Indian. They were received on ſhore by ſome hundreds of the natives, who were ſtruck with ſuch awe, that the firſt who ap⯑proached crept almoſt upon his hands and knees. He alſo preſented to them branches of trees, the uſual ſymbol of peace. This ſymbol was received, on the part of the Engliſh gen⯑tlemen, with demonſtrations of ſatisfaction and friendſhip; and noticing, that while each of the Indians held one of theſe branches in his hand, they gathered ſome, and followed the example of the natives.

They were conducted by the old Indian, accompanied by his countrymen, towards the place where the Dolphin had watered; here the ground being cleared, the chiefs of the natives threw down their boughs, and the Captain and his companions followed the example, after hav⯑ing drawn up the marines, who, marching in order, dropped their branches upon thoſe of the Indians. When they came to the watering-place, the Indians intimated, that they had [209] their permiſſion to occupy that ground, but it was not ſuited to their purpoſe. In the courſe of this walk, and a circuit through the woods, the Indians had got rid of their timidity, and became familiarized. On the way they receiv⯑ed beads and other ſmall preſents, at which they expreſſed great pleaſure.

The whole circuit was near four miles, thro' groves, conſiſting of trees of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. Beneath which trees were the ha⯑bitations of the natives, conſiſting of only a roof, deſtitute of walls. In this peregrination the gentlemen were not a little diſappointed at finding very few fowls or hogs. Captain Cook was informed by ſuch of the party as had been here with the Dolphin, that none of the people hitherto ſeen were of the firſt rank, and they imagined the Queen's reſidence was moved, no traces remaining of it. Next morning, be⯑fore they left the ſhip, ſeveral canoes came a⯑bout her, filled with people, whoſe dreſs de⯑noted them of the ſuperior claſs: two of theſe came on board, and each of them fixed upon a friend; one of them choſe Mr. Banks, and the other Captain Cook. The ceremony con⯑ſiſted of taking off their cloaths in great part, and putting them upon their adopted friends. This compliment was returned, by preſenting them ſome trinkets. They then made ſigns for theſe gentlemen to go with them to the place of their abode; and the Captain being deſirous [210] of meeting with a more convenient harbour, and knowing more of the people, readily aſſent⯑ed. Accordingly the Captain, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, with the Indians and other friends, got into two boats. About three miles diſtance they landed, among ſeveral hundreds of the na⯑tives, who conducted them to a large houſe. Upon their entrance they ſaw a middle aged man, named Tootahah, who, as ſoon as they were ſeated, ordered a cock and hen to be pro⯑duced, which he preſented to Mr. Banks and the Captain, as well as a piece of perfumed cloth; which compliment was returned by a preſent from Mr. Banks. They were then con⯑ducted with great civility to ſeveral large houſes, conſtructed in the ſame manner as thoſe already deſcribed; the ladies, ſo far from ſhunning, in⯑vited, and even preſſed them to be ſeated. Whilſt they were afterwards walking along the ſhore, they met, accompanied by a great num⯑ber of natives, another Chief, named Tubora Tumaida, with whom they ſettled a treaty of peace, in the manner before deſcribed. Tu⯑bora Tumaida intimated, he had proviſions for them if they choſe to eat, and they according⯑ly dined heartily upon bread-fruit, plantains and fiſh.

In the courſe of this viſit, Tomio, the wife of the Chief, placed herſelf upon the ſame matt with Mr. Banks, cloſe by him, but ſhe not be⯑ing young, nor appearing ever to have poſſeſ⯑ſed [211] many charms; to theſe cauſes may be aſcrib⯑ed the little attention this gentleman paid her; and Tomio received the additional mortification of Mr. Banks's beckoning to a pretty girl, who, with ſome reluctance, came and ſeated herſelf by him. The Princeſs was ſomewhat mortified at the preference given to her rival, nevertheleſs ſhe continued her aſſiduities to him. This whimſical ſcene was interrupted by an event of a ſerious nature. Dr. Solander hav⯑ing diſcovered that he had loſt an opera glaſs, they complained to the Chief, and interrupted the convivial party. This complaint was en⯑forced, by Mr. Banks's ſtarting up and ſtriking the butt end of his muſket on the ground, which ſtruck the Indians with a panic, and they all precipitately ran out of the houſe, except the Chief, and a few others of the ſuperior claſs.

The Chief appeared much concerned at this accident; not, as we had reaſon afterwards to believe, that he had any averſion to knaviſh practices, but becauſe he feared that this early inſtance of diſhoneſty might give us unfavour⯑able ſuſpicions of his countrymen, and thereby deprive him of thoſe advantages and emolu⯑ments which they expected to gain from us, and which by various artifices they afterwards ſecured, when our connexion with them be⯑came more intimate. The chief, therefore, to obviate any diſadvantageous impreſſions, gave us to underſtand, with an appearance of great [212] probity, that the place which the Doctor had mentioned was not within his diſtrict, but that he would ſend to the Chief of it, and endea⯑vour if poſſible to have the glaſs recovered; but that if this could not be done, he would make the Doctor compenſation, by giving him as much new cloth, of which he ſhewed large quantities, as ſhould be thought equal to its va⯑lue. The caſe however was in a little time brought, and the glaſs itſelf ſoon after, which deprived us of the merit we ſhould otherwiſe have had in refuſing the cloth which had been offered us. But it afforded an opportunity of convincing the natives of our generoſity, by laviſhing rewards on them for an action, to which ſelf-intereſt had been the motive, rather than any ſentiment of probity; to which, from numerous tranſactions, they appeared to be ab⯑ſolute ſtrangers. After this adventure was ami⯑cably terminated, they returned to the ſhip about ſix o'clock in the evening.

Saturday the 15th in the morning, ſeveral of the Chiefs, one of whom was very corpulent, came on board from the other point, bringing with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other refreſh⯑ments, in exchange for which they gave them hatchets, linen, beads and other trinkets, but ſome of them took the liberty of ſtealing the top of the lightening chain. This day the Captain, attended by Mr. Banks and ſome of the other gentlemen, went a-ſhore to fix on a [213] proper ſpot to erect a ſmall fort for their defence during their ſtay on the iſland; and the ground was accordingly marked out for that purpoſe. A great number of the natives looking on all the while, and behaving in the moſt peaceable and friendly manner.

Mr. Banks having ſuſpected, from ſeeing few hogs or poultry in their walks, that they had, upon the ſhip's arrival, been driven farther up the country, it was reſolved to penetrate into the woods; ſome marines and a petty officer being appointed to guard the tent in the inte⯑rim; ſeveral of the natives accompanied the gentlemen in this excurſion. Upon croſſing a little river Mr. Banks perceiving ſome ducks, fired, and killed three. The Indians were ſtruck with the utmoſt terror at this event, which oc⯑caſioned them to fall ſuddenly to the ground, as if they had been ſhot at the ſame time; they recovered, however, preſently from their fright, and continued the march. Before this party had gone much farther, they were alarmed by the diſcharge of two pieces, fired by the tent-guard. Owhaw, after calling together the Cap⯑tain's party, diſperſed all the Indians except three, who broke branches of trees as pledges of their fidelity. Upon their return to the tent, it appeared, that an Indian had taken an op⯑portunity to ſnatch away one of the centinels muſquets; whereupon a young midſhipman, under whoſe command the party was, very im⯑prudently [214] ordered the marines to fire, which they did immediately amongſt the thickeſt of the fugitive Indians, in number above a hun⯑dred, ſeveral of whom were wounded, but as the criminal did not fall, they purſued and ſhot him dead.

When Mr. Banks heard of the affair, he was greatly diſpleaſed with the guard, and he uſed his utmoſt endeavours to accommodate the dif⯑ference; going acroſs the river, and through the mediation of an old man, prevailed on many of the natives to come over to them, bringing plantain-trees, their uſual ſignal of peace, and clapping their hands in their breaſts, they cried, Tyau, which ſignifies friendſhip. In a ſhort time they became ſocial and chearful, and ſeem⯑ed, for the preſent, to have buried in oblivion the wanton acts of cruelty which had been ſo lately exerciſed on their fellow countrymen.

Few of the natives appeared next morning upon the beach, and not one of them came on board. From hence Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen concluded, that their apprehenſions were not intirely removed, more eſpecially as even Owhaw had forſaken them. The Cap⯑tain, in conſequence of theſe diſagreeable ap⯑pearances, brought the ſhip nearer to ſhore, and moored her ſo as to make her broad ſide bear on the ſpot which had been marked for erecting the fort. The Captain went on ſhore in the evening, with ſome of the gentlemen, [215] when the Indians aſſembled round them, and they trafficked together in a friendly manner.

Mr. Banks had the misfortune of loſing Mr. Buchan on the 17th.

The ſame day they received on board a viſit from Tubora Tumaida and Tootahah. As tokens of peace, they brought with them ſome plantain branches, and would not riſk them⯑ſelves on board till theſe had been received, be⯑ing probably alarmed at the affair of the tent. They alſo brought ſome bread-fruit and a hog ready dreſſed: in return for which they receiv⯑ed ſome nails.

The fort began to be erected on the 18th. Some of the company were employed in throw⯑ing up intrenchments, whilſt others were occu⯑pied in cutting faſcines and pickets, which the Indians of their own accord chearfully aſſiſted in bringing from the woods. Three ſides of the fort were fortified with intrenchments and palli⯑ſades; and on the other which was flanked by a river, the water-caſks being filled, were placed ſo as to form a breaſt-work.

This day the natives brought down ſuch quantities of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, that it was neceſſary to reject them, and to intimate to them, that the company would not want any for two days. Beads were trafficked this day for every thing. Mr. Banks's tent being got up, he, for the firſt time, ſlept on ſhore. No In⯑dian attempted to approach it the whole night; [216] however, a precaution had been taken to place proper centinels about it.

Wedneſday 19, Tubora Tumaida viſited Mr. Banks at his tent, and brought with him, beſides his wife and family, the materials for erecting a houſe, in the neighbourhood of the fort, where he deſigned to reſide: ſome time after he had reached the tent, he requeſted Mr. Banks to accompany him back to the woods; on their arrival at a place where he occaſionally reſided, he preſented him with two garments, one of which was of red cloth, and the other of very fine matting; in which, having clothed Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the ſhip, and with his wife and ſon ſtaid to dinner: they had a diſh ſerved up, which was prepared by one of Tubora Tumaida's attendants, not unlike in taſte to what in England is called flummery; of this diſh the natives ſeemed exceedingly fond, but the Engliſh could not reliſh it. Tu⯑bora Tumaida had likewiſe brought with him ſome food, which appeared like the flower of wheat; this being mixed with cocoa-nut liquor, and ſome hot ſtones put into it, was ſtirred a⯑bout till it became a thick jelly; on taſting it, they found it of an agreeable flavour, not very inferior to good blanc mange.

Without the lines a ſort of market was eſta⯑bliſhed, which was tolerably well ſupplied. Tubora Tumaida became Mr. Banks's and the other gentlemens frequent gueſt; he adopted [217] their manners, and was the only one of his countrymen who had attempted to uſe a knife and fork.

Mr. Monkhouſe, the Surgeon, ſaid he had ſeen, in his evening walk the body of the man who had been ſhot at the tent. It was depo⯑ſited in a ſhed, cloſe to the houſe where he had reſided when alive, and others were within ten yards of it. It was in length about fifteen feet, and eleven in breadth, and the height was pro⯑portionable: the two ſides and one end were partly encloſed with a ſort of wicker-work, the other end was entirely open. The corps was depoſited on a bier, the frame of which was wood, with a matted bottom, ſupported by poſts about five feet high. The corps was co⯑vered with a matt, and over that a white cloth; by its ſide lay a wooden mace, and towards the head two cocoa-nut ſhells: towards the feet was a bunch of green leaves, and ſmall dried boughs, tied together and ſtuck in the ground, near which was a ſtone the ſize of a cocoa-nut: here was alſo placed a young plantain-tree and a ſtone axe. A great number of palm-nuts were hung in ſtrings at the open end of the ſhed; and the ſtem of a plantain-tree was ſtuck up without the ſhed; upon this ſtem was placed a cocoa⯑nut ſhell filled with freſh water. At the ſide of one of the poſts, there hung a little bag with ſome roaſted pieces of bread-fruit. The natives did not ſeem pleaſed at his approaching [218] the body, their jealouſy and uneaſineſs being very viſibly depicted in their countenances.

The flies on ſhore were ſo very tormenting, that they were obliged to deſtroy them with muſqueto nets and fly traps.

They had a ſpecimen of the muſic of the country on the 22d; ſome of the natives per⯑forming on flutes, which had only two ſtops; they were blown like the German flute, but the performer blew with his noſtril inſtead of his mouth: ſeveral others ſung, only one tune, to this inſtrument.

Some of the Indians brought the Engliſh axes to grind and repair, moſt of which they had received from the Dolphin; but a French one occaſioned much ſpeculation, and it at length appeared to have been left here by Mr. de Bougainville.

On the 24th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made an excurſion into the country, which they found to be level and fertile for about two miles along the ſhore to the eaſtward, after which the hills reached quite to the water's edge, and farther on they ran out into the ſea. Af⯑ter paſſing theſe hills, which continued about three miles, they diſcovered a large plain, a⯑bounding with good houſes, inhabited by peo⯑ple who ſeemed to be in affluence. A very wide river iſſuing from a valley, added greatly to the beauty of this place: they croſſed this river, and perceived the country to be again

[219] barren, which determined them to return; but juſt as they had taken this reſolution, they were offered ſome refreſhment by one of the natives, a man, at ſome authors deſcribe to be, mixed with many nations, but different from them all, his ſkin being of a dead white, though ſome parts of his body were not ſo white as others; his hair, eye-brows, and beard were as white as his ſkin. The great joy of Tubora Tu⯑maida and his women, who met them as they returned, is not to be expreſſed.

On the 25th ſeveral of their knives were miſ⯑ſing; upon which Mr. Banks, who had loſt his among the reſt, accuſed Tubora Tumaida with having ſtolen it, which cauſed him to be very unhappy, as he happened to be innocent of the fact, Mr. Banks's ſervant having miſ⯑laid it; and the reſt were produced in a rag by a native. The Indian was ſome time before he would forget this accuſation, the tears ſtarting from his eyes, and he made ſigns with the knife, that if he had ever been guilty of ſuch an ac⯑tion, as was imputed to him, he would ſuffer his throat to be cut. However, in general, theſe people, from the higheſt to the loweſt, are the greateſt thieves in the world.

On the 26th, ſix ſwivel guns were mounted upon the fort, which put the natives into great conſternation, and cauſed ſeveral fiſhermen, who lived upon the point, to remove farther off, ima⯑gining they were to be fired at in a few days.

[220]The next day Tubora Tumaida, with a friend, a remarkable glutton, and three of his women, dined at the fort; after which he ſet out for his houſe in the wood. In a ſhort time he returned in much agitation, to acquaint Mr. Banks, that the ſhip's butcher had threatened to cut his wife's throat, upon her refuſing to ſell him a ſtone hatchet, which he had taken a fancy to, for a nail. It clearly appeared he had been culpable, and he was flogged on board, in ſight of ſeveral of the Indians. As ſoon as the firſt ſtroke was given they interfered, and earneſtly intreated that he might be untied. This being refuſed, they burſt into tears, and ſhewed great concern.

On Friday 28, one of Tubora Tumaida's female attendants, came down to the fort in the greateſt affliction, the tears guſhing from her eyes, and full of lamentation. Mr. Banks ſeeing her, inſiſted upon knowing the cauſe; but inſtead of anſwering, ſhe ſtruck herſelf ſe⯑veral times with a ſhark's tooth upon the head, till ſhe cauſed a great effuſion of blood; while her diſtreſs was unnoticed by ſeveral other In⯑dians, who continued laughing and talking with the utmoſt unconcern. After this, ſhe gather⯑ed up ſome pieces of cloth, which ſhe had thrown down to catch the blood, and threw them into the ſea, as if ſhe wiſhed to obliterate her abſurd behaviour. She then bathed herſelf in the river, and with remarkable chearfulneſs [221] returned to the tent, as if nothing extraordinary had happened.

During the forenoon of this day, canoes were continually coming in, and the tents at the fort were filled with people of both ſexes. Mr. Mo⯑lineux, Maſter of the Endeavour, went on ſhore, and ſeeing a woman, whoſe name was Oberea, he declared ſhe was the perſon he judg⯑ed to be the queen of the iſland, when he came there on board the Dolphin in the laſt voyage.

The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, who had made ſo diſtinguiſhed a figure, in the accounts that had been given by the firſt diſco⯑verers of this iſland. The perſon of the queen Oberea was of a large make, and tall; ſhe was about forty years of age, her ſkin white; her eyes had great expreſſion and meaning in them; ſhe had been handſome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. She was ſoon conduct⯑ed to the ſhip, and went on board, accompa⯑nied with ſome of her family. Many preſents were made her, particularly a child's doll, which ſeemed the moſt to engroſs her attention. Cap⯑tain Cook accompanied her on ſhore; and as ſoon as they landed, ſhe preſented him with a hog, and ſome plantains, which were carried to the fort in proceſſion, Oberea and the Captain bringing up the rear. They met Tootahah, who, though not King, ſeemed to be at this time inveſted with a ſovereign authority. He immediately became jealous of the Queen's [222] having the doll; which made them find it ne⯑ceſſary to compliment him with one alſo. A doll now was preferable to a hatchet, though it was not conſidered ſo long, as they ſoon were looked upon as trifles of little or no value.

The ſhip's proviſions ſeemed to be very ac⯑ceptable to the men, but the women were ſhy of taſting any of them. They were ſolicited ſtrongly, this day, to dine with the gentlemen; but they refuſed, and choſe to partake of plan⯑tains with the ſervants; a myſtery that could not be explained.

On Saturday 29, in the forenoon, Mr. Banks paid a viſit to Oberea, who was ſtill aſleep un⯑der the awning of her canoe, whither he went with an intention of calling her up. Upon en⯑tering her chamber, to his great ſurpriſe, he found her in bed with a handſome young fel⯑low, about five and twenty; upon which he immediately retired with ſome precipitation, not a little diſconcerted at this diſcovery; but he was ſoon given to underſtand, that ſuch amours were by no means conſidered ſcandalous, and that Obadie, the perſon found in bed with the queen, was by every one known to have been ſelected by her as the object of her laſcivious hours. The queen ſoon got up and dreſſed her⯑ſelf to wait upon Mr. Banks. After dreſſing him in a ſuit of fine cloth, they proceed⯑ed together to the tents. Mr. Banks paid a viſit in the evening to Tubora Tumaida, and [223] was greatly ſurprized to find him and his family all in tears; he in vain attempted to diſcover the cauſe, and ſoon took leave of them. Upon his return he was told by the officers, that Owhaw had foretold that the guns would be fired in four days, and as this was the eve of the third day, they were alarmed at the ſituation they judged themſelves to be in. In conſe⯑quence of this intelligence they doubled the centries at the fort, and the gentlemen ſlept under arms. Mr. Banks, about two in the morning, went round the point, but finding every thing as he could wiſh, he dropt all ſuſ⯑picions of the Indians having hoſtile intentions, and dwelt quite ſecure, as the little fortification was now complete.

The next day, Sunday the 30th, Tomio came running to the tents, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, to whom they applied in all emergent caſes, told him that Tubora Tu⯑maida was dying, owing to ſomething which had been given him to eat by his people, and prayed him to go inſtantly to him. Accord⯑ingly Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian very ſick. He was told, that he had been vo⯑miting, and had thrown up a leaf, which they ſaid contained ſome of the poiſon which he had taken. Upon examining the leaf, Mr. Banks found it to be nothing more than tobacco, which the Indian had begged of ſome of their people. He looked up to Mr. Banks, while [224] he was examining the leaf, as if he had not a moment to live. Mr. Banks, now knowing his diſorder, ordered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, which ſoon reſtored him to health, and he was as chearful as ever.

On the 1ſt of May Captain Cook produced an iron adze, made in imitation of one of their ſtone ones, which had been brought home by Captain Wallis, and ſhewed it to Tootahah, who took ſuch a fancy to it, that notwithſtanding he was offered the choice of any of the things that were in his cheſts, he ſnatched it up with the greateſt eagerneſs, and would accept of nothing elſe. The ſame day a Chief, who had dined on board a few days before, accompanied by ſome of his women, who uſed to feed him, came on board by himſelf, and when dinner was on table, the Captain helped him to ſome victuals, thinking upon this occaſion he would condeſcend to feed himſelf; but he never at⯑tempted to eat, and had not one of the ſervants fed him, he would certainly have gone without his dinner.

In the afternoon they took the aſtronomical quadrant, with ſome other inſtruments, on ſhore.

On Tueſday the 2d, having occaſion to uſe the quadrant, to their great aſtoniſhment and concern it was miſſing; this was the more ex⯑traordinary, as a centinel had been poſted the whole night within a few yards of the tent in [225] which it had been depoſited; and it had never been taken out of the caſe in which it was pack⯑ed. Their own people were at firſt ſuſpected, imagining they might have miſtaken the contents for articles uſed in traffic. They ſearched the fort and the adjacent places, and a conſiderable reward was offered, as the loſs of this inſtru⯑ment would have rendered it impoſſible for them to have made the neceſſary obſervations reſpecting the Tranſit, one of the principal objects of their voyage. After every fruitleſs ſearch had been made, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green, and ſome other gentlemen, ſet out for the woods, where he thought he might gain ſome intelligence of the robbery, if it had been committed by the natives. In the courſe of their journey they met Tubora Tumaida, with a few of the natives, who was made by ſigns to underſtand, that ſome of his countrymen had ſtolen the quadrant, and Mr. Banks in⯑ſiſted upon being conducted to the place where it was concealed. Accordingly they proceeded together a few miles, and, after ſome enquiry, Tubora Tumaida received information of the thief, and that he was to be found at a place about four miles diſtant; as they had no other arms but a brace of piſtols, and the ſpot for which they were deſtined was at ſo conſidera⯑ble a diſtance from the fort, they were not without ſome apprehenſions of danger. They accordingly diſpatched one of their company to [226] Captain Cook, deſiring him to forward another party after them; having laid an embargo upon all the canoes in the bay; a party accordingly ſat out, with the Captain at their head.

Mr. Banks and Mr. Green in the interim purſued their route, and at the very place which had been mentioned were met by one of Tu⯑bora Tumaida's own people, with part of the quadrant; ſoon afterwards the box in which it had been packed, containing the other parts of it, was recovered; and, upon examination, though it had been taken to pieces, they had the ſatisfaction to find it had received no mate⯑rial injury.

In the evening, when Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen, with Tubora Tumaida, re⯑turned, they were very much ſurprized to find Tootahah confined in the fort, the gate of which was ſurrounded by the natives, who ex⯑preſſed the utmoſt dread and anxiety on the occaſion, as they had no other expectation but it was intended to put him to death.

Upon enquiry into this affair, it appeared that the Indians were ſo much alarmed at Captain Cook's going up into the country with a party of armed men, that in the evening moſt of them forſook their habitations near the fort; a canoe likewiſe attempted to leave the bay, which the Lieutenant, who commanded on board the ſhip, and had been ordered not to permit any canoe to go out, perceiving, diſpatched [227] a boat to detain her, but ſhe no ſooner came near them than they jumped into the ſea; a⯑mong this unfortunate number was Tootahah, who, being taken up, was ſent by the Lieutenant to the fort; and the commanding officer thought it his duty to detain him.

He could not be perſuaded that he was not to be put to death, till Captain Cook gave or⯑ders for him to be conducted out of the fort. He was received with great affection by the people, every one preſſing forward to em⯑brace him.

On Wedneſday the 3d, in the morning, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander attended as uſual to purchaſe proviſions, but the Indians brought nothing to market; nor could they procure any from ſome fiſhing-boats which came a-breaſt of the tents, though they were in great want of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. Mr. Banks walk⯑ed into the woods, and heard great complaints from the people of the ill treatment of their Chief, who they ſaid had been beaten, and otherwiſe ill uſed, of which Mr. Banks declar⯑ed he was totally ignorant. The hogs which he had left as a preſent, were ſent for back by the Chief, which, probably, he was of opinion they had ill-deſerved. However, they would not ſend them till he came himſelf, by which means they thought to procure a reconcilia⯑tion, knowing that abſence would promote that coolneſs between them, to which the firſt [228] interview might put an end, eſpecially as they were told, the Chief did not intend coming to the fort for near a fortnight.

Their proviſions now were extremely ſcarce, and the markets ill ſupplied, the people reſent⯑ing the ill uſage their Chief had received. The next day, with ſome difficulty, Mr. Banks ob⯑tained a few baſkets of bread-fruit from Tu⯑bora Tumaida in the woods, which were a very ſeaſonable relief. An axe and ſhirt were ſent for this day by Tootahah, in return for his two hogs which they promiſed to bring him the next day. If they had not complied with this requeſt, they could have ſcarcely procur⯑ed any proviſions.

After his ſending again early in the morn⯑ing, on Friday 5, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with the Captain, ſet out in the pinnace, taking one of Tootahah's people with them, they ſoon reached Eparre, the place where he dwelt, which was but a few miles to the weſt of the tents.

Upon their arrival, they found great num⯑bers of people upon the ſhore waiting for them. They were immediately conducted to the Chief, whilſt the people ſhouted round them, Taio Tootahah, ‘"Tootahah is your friend;"’ they found him ſitting under a tree, and ſome old men ſtanding round him. As ſoon as he had made ſigns for them to ſit down, he aſked for his axe, which Captain Cook preſented to him, [229] with a ſhirt and a broad cloth garment, with which he ſeemed greatly pleaſed; and put the garment on. After eating a mouthful together in the boat, they were conducted to a large area, or court-yard, on one ſide of his houſe, where an entertainment was provided for them, conſiſting of wreſtling. The Chief ſat at the upper end of the area, with ſeveral of his principal men on each ſide of him, by way of judges, from whom the conquerors received applauſe.

Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many ſimple ceremonies of challeng⯑ing each other, they engaged, endeavouring to throw one another by dint of ſtrength; then ſeizing hold of each other by the thigh, the hand, the hair, or the cloaths, they grappled without the leaſt art, till one was thrown on his back; this conqueſt was applauded by ſome words from the old men, and three huzzas. After one engagement ſucceeded another, but if they could not throw each other during the ſpace of a minute, they parted either by con⯑ſent, or the intervention of their friends. Seve⯑ral women of rank were preſent; but it was thought, they would not have attended this amuſement, only in compliment to the Engliſh gentlemen.

A man with a ſtick, who made way for them when they landed, officiated here as maſ⯑ter of the ceremonies, keeping order among the people.

[230]When this entertainment was at an end, they were informed, that ſome hogs and a quantity of bread-fruit were preparing for their dinner; which intelligence was the more agreeable, as their appetites were at this time exceedingly keen. But inſtead of dining either on ſhore or on board of the boat, they had the mortifica⯑tion of going as far as the ſhip by the deſire of the Chief.

As ſoon as the Chief was known to be on board the ſhip, the people brought plenty of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other proviſions to the fort.

On Monday 8, early in the morning, Mr. Molineux, the Maſter, and Mr. Green, ſet out in the pinnace to the eaſtward, in order to pro⯑cure ſome hogs or poultry; but after proceed⯑ing a conſiderable way, and ſeeing many hogs and a turtle, they could not purchaſe either. They belonged to Tootahah, and the people told them, that they could not ſell them with⯑out his conſent; ſo abſolute was the power of this man.

They were now obliged, for the firſt time, to bring out their nails to purchaſe proviſions; for one of the ſmalleſt ſize, they obtained near twenty cocoa-nuts and ſome bread-fruit, ſo that they ſoon got great plenty.

On Tueſday 9, in the forenoon, Oberea paid them a viſit, accompanied by her favourite [231] Obadee; ſhe preſented them with a hog and ſome bread-fruit.

The forge being now ſet up and frequently at work, became not only a new ſubject of ad⯑miration to the Indians, but afforded the Cap⯑tain an additional opportunity of conferring ob⯑ligations on them, by permitting the ſmith, during his leiſure hours, to convert the old iron, which they were ſuppoſed to have procured from the Dolphin, into different kinds of tools.

The natives, after repeated attempts, finding themſelves incapable of pronouncing the names of the Engliſh gentlemen, had recourſe to new ones formed from their own language, Mr. Cook was named Toote; Hicks, Hete; Gore, Touara; Solander, Tolano; Banks, Opane; Green, Treene; and ſo on for the greateſt part of the ſhip's crew.

As Mr. Banks was ſitting in his boat, tra⯑ding with them as uſual, on Friday the 12th, a very extraordinary ceremony was performed by ſome ladies who were ſtrangers, to whom the reſt of the Indians giving way on each ſide, and forming a paſſage, they advanced in proceſſion towards Mr. Banks, to whom they preſented ſome parrots feathers, plantains, and other plants. They then brought a large bundle of cloth, conſiſting of nine pieces, which being divided into three parcels, one of the women, who ap⯑peared to be the principal, ſtepping on one of the parcels, pulled up all her cloaths as high as [232] her waiſt, and then, with an air of unaffected ſimplicity, turned round three times. This ce⯑remony ſhe repeated in the ſame manner on the other two parcels of cloth, and the whole be⯑ing then preſented to Mr. Banks, the ladies went and ſaluted him; in return for which he made them ſuch preſents as he thought would gratify them the moſt.

The next evening Mr. Banks was under the diſagreeable neceſſity of reprimanding, in very ſtrong terms, Tubora Tumaida, for having the inſolence to ſnatch his gun from him, and firing it in the air; a thing which ſurpriſed Mr. Banks greatly, as he imagined him totally ignorant of the uſe of it. And as their ſafety in a great meaſure depended on keeping them in that ſtate, he told him, with threats, that his touching his piece was the greateſt of inſults. The Indian made no reply, but ſet off with his family to his houſe at Eparre. He being an uſeful man, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, thought fit to go after him, and they found him among a number of people, greatly dejected. How⯑ever, as Mr. Banks judiciouſly cauſed all ani⯑moſity to ceaſe, they brought him back to ſup⯑per; after which the Chief and his wife both ſlept in Mr. Banks's tent. One of the natives, not intimidated by their preſence, attempted that very evening to ſcale the walls of the fort, but was prevented by the centinel. Theſe In⯑dians [233] could not reſiſt making attempts to ſteal the iron and iron tools within the works.

Sunday morning the 14th, divine ſervice was performed at the fort, in hopes that ſome of the principal Indians might be preſent, but moſt of them returned home before the time. How⯑ever, Tubora Tumaida, and his wife Tomio, were preſent; they behaved with great decency, but without the leaſt apparent curioſity. They made no enquiries with reſpect to the ceremo⯑nies, and their brethren were as little inquiſitive upon their return. This evening ſeveral of their people were witneſſes to an entertainment of a very extraordinary nature, which conſiſted of the moſt indecent acts of lewdneſs. For exam⯑ple, a young fellow cohabited in public with a girl about eleven or twelve years of age, with⯑out the leaſt ſenſe of ſhame; and what is ſtill more extraordinary, Oberea, with ſeveral other females of the firſt rank, were preſent during the whole time.

On Monday the 15th, Mr. Banks detected Tu⯑bora Tamaida in having ſtolen ſome nails. Mr. Banks having a good opinion of this Chief, was willing to put his fidelity to the teſt, and ſeveral temptations were thrown in his way, a⯑mong the reſt a baſket of nails, which proved irreſiſtible. He confeſſed the fact, and upon Mr Banks's inſiſting upon reſtitution, he de⯑clared the nails were at Eparre; this occaſioned high words, and at length the Indian produced [234] one of them. He was to have been forgiven upon reſtoring the reſt, but not having reſolu⯑tion to fulfil his engagement, he fled with his furniture and family before night.

On the 17th, one of the natives who came in the morning before day-light to ſteal ſome caſks, it not being the firſt offence, the centinel ſnapped his gun at him, but it miſſing fire he eſcaped.

On Wedneſday 24, Tootahah having ſent many meſſages to requeſt a viſit from the Cap⯑tain, declaring that he would acknowledge the compliment by a preſent of ſome hogs. Mr. Hicks the firſt Lieutenant was ſent, in hopes of getting the hogs without the viſit. He was re⯑ceived in a very friendly manner at a place call⯑ed Tettehah, five miles farther to the weſtward, where Tootahah had taken up his reſidence. He brought away one hog only, which had been produced immediately upon his arrival, with a promiſe of receiving more the next morning; but, when morning came, he was obliged to depart without them. Mr. Banks, on the 25th, ſeeing Tubora and his wife Tomio at the tent, for the firſt time after he ſtole the nails, endea⯑voured to perſuade him to reſtore them, but in vain. He was treated with great coolneſs during his ſhort ſtay, and his departure was very abrupt.

On the 27th of May, Tootahah being remov⯑ed to a place called Atahourou, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and ſome others, ſet [235] out in the pinnace to pay him a viſit; after making preſents of a few trifling articles, they were invited to ſtay the night. Mr. Banks hav⯑ing accepted of a place in Oberea's canoe, left his companions, in order to retire to reſt. Not⯑withſtanding the care Oberea took of his cloaths, by having them in her own cuſtody, they were ſtolen with his piſtols, powder-horn, and many other things that were in his waiſt⯑coat pockets. The alarm was given to Toota⯑hah, who ſlept in the next canoe, and who went with Oberea in ſearch of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his breeches on, and his muſquet uncharged. They ſoon returned, but without ſucceſs; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the loſs for the preſent, and a ſecond time endeavour to ſleep. But he had ſcarce compoſed himſelf, before he heard ſome muſick, and perceived lights at a ſmall diſtance from ſhore; this proved to be a concert, which they call Heiva. Mr. Banks judged it then neceſſary to get up and try to find his companions. As ſoon as he approached the lights, he found the hut, where Mr. Cook and three of his aſſoci⯑ates lay, and began to relate his melancholy tale; but inſtead of receiving much comfort from them, he was told, that they had ſhared the ſame fate, having loſt their ſtockings and jackets. However, this did not prevent their hearing out the concert, which conſiſted of [236] drums, flutes, and ſeveral voices; after which they retired to reſt.

The next morning Mr. Banks got his muſ⯑quet from Tupia, with whom he had intruſted it, and ſome cloaths from Oberea; in which he made a whimſical appearance. They then got together, and were joined by Dr. Solander, who was the only one among them that had not been robbed, having ſlept at a houſe about a mile diſtant. As to the others they were obliged to put up with their loſs; their cloaths, &c. hav⯑ing never been heard of afterwards. They ſet out for the boat not very well pleaſed, carry⯑ing with them only one hog, which had been intended for their ſupper the night before.

In their return to the boat, they were greatly amuſed by ſeeing ſome Indians ſwimming for their diverſion, amidſt a ſurf, which no Eu⯑ropean boat could have lived in, or the beſt ſwimmer in Europe have ſaved himſelf from drowning, had he by accident been ex⯑poſed to its fury. This extraordinary ſurf breaks upon the ſhore in a few places, where acceſs to the iſland is not guarded by a reef, and makes it very dreadful and dangerous.

Some Indians from a neighbouring iſland, to which Captain Wallis gave the name of DUKE OF YORK'S ISLAND, informed them of more than twenty iſlands in the neighbourhood of Otaheite.

They now began to make neceſſary prepara⯑tions for obſerving the Tranſit of Venus, and, [237] from the hints Mr. Cook had received from the Royal Society, he ſent out two parties to make obſervations from different ſpots, that in caſe they failed at Otaheite, they might ſucceed elſe⯑where; they employed themſelves in preparing their inſtruments, and inſtructing ſuch gentle⯑men with the uſe of them, as were to go out. And on Thurſday the 1ſt of June, the next Saturday being the day of the Tranſit, they ſent the long boat to Eimayo, having on board Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouſe, and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks; each furniſhed with ne⯑ceſſary inſtruments by Mr. Green. Mr. Banks and ſeveral of the Indians went out with this party. Others were diſpatched to find out a convenient ſpot, at ſuch a diſtance from their principal ſtation, as might ſuit their purpoſe.

Thoſe who went to Eimayo in the long boat, after rowing the beſt part of the night, by the help of ſome Indians aboard a canoe, which they hailed, found a proper ſituation for their Obſervatory upon a rock, which roſe out of the water about one hundred and forty yards from the ſhore, where they fixed their tents, and pre⯑pared the apparatus for the following day's ob⯑ſervation.

On Saturday the 3d, as ſoon as it was light, Mr. Banks left them to go to the iſland for freſh proviſions. As he was trading with the natives who belonged to Tarrao, the King of the iſland, his majeſty arrived with his ſiſter, whoſe name [238] was Nuna, in order to pay him a viſit. It be⯑ing cuſtomary among theſe people to be ſeated during their conferences, Mr. Banks ſpread on the ground his Indian cloth turban, that he wore inſtead of a hat, on which they all ſat down. After this the royal preſent was brought, con⯑ſiſting of a hog and a dog, ſome cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. A meſſenger was diſpatched by Mr. Banks for an adze, a ſhirt, and ſome beads, and they were preſented to his majeſty, who re⯑ceived them with great pleaſure. Tubora Turma⯑ida and Tomio, Indians who had gone with Mr. Banks upon the expedition, came from the Ob⯑ſervatory: Tomio, ſaid to be related to Tarrao, brought him a long nail, and a ſhirt for Nuna, by way of preſents. Mr. Banks returned to the Obſervatory with Tarrao, Nuna, and three beau⯑tiful young women, their chief attendants. He ſhewed them the Tranſit of Venus over the Sun, and informed them, that he and his companions had come from their own country ſolely to view it in that ſituation.

The produce of this iſland, according to the inſpection of Mr. Banks, proved to be much the ſame as that of Otaheite, the people alſo reſembling thoſe of that iſland, many of them he had ſeen upon it, who were well acquainted with the value of the trading articles.

Both the parties which were ſent out, made their obſervation with great ſucceſs. They nevertheleſs differed in the accounts of the times

[239] of the contacts more than might have been imagined.

Mr. Green's Account was as follows.

While they were viewing the Tranſit of Venus, ſome of the ſhip's company broke into one of the ſtore-rooms, and ſtole a quantity of ſpike-nails. As the circulation of theſe nails might have been greatly detrimental to them, ſtrict ſearch was made, and one of the thieves was detected. He had only a few in his cuſtody; but was however puniſhed with two dozen laſhes.

The death of an old woman of ſome diſ⯑tinction gave them an opportunity of obſerv⯑ing the manner of the Indians diſpoſing of their dead, whom they never bury. The kind of bier, on which the corpſe is depoſited, has al⯑ready [240] been deſcribed, and the bread-fruit, &c. placed as before, which Tubora Tumaida in⯑formed Mr. Banks was depoſited as an offering to their Gods. A ſort of ſtile was placed in the front of the ſquare, where the relations of the deceaſed ſtood to teſtify their ſorrow; be⯑neath the awning were ſeveral pieces of cloth, on which were the tears and blood of the mourners, for upon theſe occaſions they wound themſelves with a ſhark's tooth. At a ſmall diſtance two temporary houſes were erected, in one of which ſome of the relations of the deceaſed conſtantly remained, and in the other the chief mourner reſided, who was dreſſed in a peculiar manner, to perform a particular cere⯑mony. After the corpſe is rotten, the bones are buried near the ſpot. It was afterwards diſ⯑covered, that theſe repoſitories of the dead were uſed alſo for religious worſhip.

There having been a ſcarcity of bread-fruit for ſome days, an enquiry was made of the cauſe, and the reaſons the Indians gave was, that there being a great crop, the fruit had been gathered to make a ſort of ſour paſte, which the natives call Mabie, which, after fermenta⯑tion, will keep a long time, and ſupply them in times of dearth.

The funeral ceremony, in honour of the old woman, was performed on the 10th by the chief mourner, and Mr. Banks was ſo deſirous to be a ſpectator, that he agreed to take a part [241] in the performance of this ceremony, being in⯑formed, that he could not be preſent on any other condition. He accordingly went in the evening to the place where the body was de⯑poſited, there he was met by the relations of the deceaſed, and afterwards joined by ſeveral other perſons. The chief mourner was Tu⯑bora Tumaida; his dreſs was whimſical, though not altogether ungrateful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit his European dreſs, and he had no other covering than a ſmall piece of cloth, which was tied round his middle; his body was then blacked with charcoal and water, as were the bodies of ſeveral others, particularly ſome females, who were as little covered as himſelf; the proceſſion then began. The chief mourner uttered ſome words, that were judged to be a prayer, when he approached the body; and he repeated it as he came up to his own houſe. After this the proceſſion went on, by per⯑miſſion, towards the fort. It is uſual for the Indians to ſhun theſe proceſſions as much as poſſible; they accordingly ran into the woods in great haſte, as ſoon at it came in view. From the fort it proceeded along the ſhore. Hav⯑ing croſſed the river, it entered the woods, paſſing ſeveral houſes, which became immedi⯑ately uninhabited; and, during the reſt of the proceſſion, which continued above half an hour, not a ſingle Indian was viſible. Mr. Banks filled an office they called Nineveh, and there [242] were two others in the ſame character. When none of the other natives were to be ſeen, they approached the chief mourner, ſaying, imatata; then thoſe who had aſſiſted at the ceremony bathed in the river, and reſumed their cuſto⯑mary dreſs.

Such was this uncommon ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a capital part, and met with the applauſe of Tubora Tumaida, the chief mourner.

Complaint was made on Monday the 12th to the Captain, that the Indians had loſt ſome bows and arrows, and ſtrings of plaited hair; the affair was enquired into, and the fact being well atteſted, two dozen laſhes were inflicted upon each of the criminals.

The bows and arrows of the Indians have not hitherto been noticed; but this day Tubora Tu⯑maida brought his hither, occaſioned by a chal⯑lenge he had received from Mr. Gore. The Indian Chief imagined it was a trial of ſkill who could ſhoot the fartheſt; but Mr. Gore propo⯑ſed ſhooting at a mark. The miſtake being ſoon diſcovered, the champions declined the trial. The Indian, however, to diſplay his ſkill, drew his bow, and ſent an arrow, unfeathered, as they all were, nearly the ſixth part of a mile. They ſhoot kneeling, and drop the bow the in⯑ſtant the arrow is diſcharged.

In this morning's excurſion, Mr. Banks met ſeveral of the natives, who were itinerant muſi⯑cians, [243] and the place of the evening's rendez⯑vous being known, all the Engliſh gentlemen went thither to partake of the diverſion. Their inſtruments were flutes and drums, and a great number of the Indians were got together upon the occaſion. The drummers ſung to the mu⯑ſic, and to the aſtoniſhment of Mr. Banks and the reſt of his companions they found, that they were the chief ſubject of the minſtrels lays. Theſe ſongs muſt, therefore, have been extem⯑poraneous, the rewards whereof were ſuch ne⯑ceſſaries as they required.

An iron coal rake for the oven being ſtole in the night of the 14th, and many other things having at different times been taken by the In⯑dians, the Captain judged it of ſome conſe⯑quence, if poſſible, to put an end to theſe prac⯑tices, by making it their common intereſt to prevent it. He had already given ſtrict orders, that the centinels ſhould not fire upon them, even if they were detected in the fact. About twenty-ſeven of their double canoes with ſails were juſt come in with cargoes of fiſh, which the Captain ſeized, and then gave notice, that unleſs the rake, and all the other things, which had at different times been ſtolen, were return⯑ed, the veſſels ſhould be burnt. The Captain had, indeed, no ſuch deſign, as will appear by the event. The menace produced no other ef⯑fect than the reſtitution of the rake, all the other things remaining in their poſſeſſion; [244] at length the Captain thought proper to give up the cargoes, as the innocent natives were in great diſtreſs for want of them; and at laſt, to prevent confuſion, from the difficulty of aſ⯑certaining to whom the different lots belonged, he promiſed alſo to releaſe the canoes.

About this time another event had nearly in⯑volved the Engliſh in a quarrel with the Indi⯑ans. The Captain having ſent a boat on ſhore to get ballaſt, the officer not meeting immedi⯑ately with what he wanted, began to pull down one of their ſepulchral buildings: this meaſure was ſtrenuouſly oppoſed by the Indians. Mr. Banks, having received intelligence of the affair, repaired to the ſpot, and the matter was ſoon amicably terminated, there being ſtones ſuffici⯑ent found elſewhere. This was the only oppo⯑ſition they had, hitherto, made, and the only perſonal inſult received (beſides the affair of the muſket at the tent, for which the Indian forfeit⯑ed his life) was by Mr. Monkhouſe, who having pulled a flower within one of their burial inclo⯑ſures, was ſtruck by an Indian; the gentleman laid hold of him, but he was reſcued by two more, who pulling Mr. Monkhouſe's hair forced him to quit his hold, after which they all ran off.

On the 19th in the evening, ſoon after dark, while the canoes were detained by the Captain, Oberea the Queen, and ſeveral of her attend⯑ants, paid the gentlemen a viſit; ſhe came from Tootahah's palace, in a double canoe, and [245] brought with her a hog, bread-fruit, and other preſents, among which was a dog; but none of the things that had been ſtolen; thoſe ſhe plead⯑ed had been taken away by her gallant Obadee, for which ſhe had beaten him. She did not, however, ſeem to think her ſtory deſerved cre⯑dit, but appeared at firſt much terrified, though ſhe ſurmounted her fears with great fortitude; and was deſirous of ſleeping with her attendants in Mr. Bank's tent; but this being refuſed, ſhe was obliged to paſs the night in her canoe. The Captain declined accepting of her preſents, at which ſhe ſeemed very ſorrowful. Mr. Banks and the reſt of the gentlemen retired to bed, and a whole tribe of the Indians would have ſlept in the bell-tent, but were not permitted.

The next morning the Queen returned to the fort, and Captain Cook having altered his mind accepted of her preſents. Two of her attend⯑ants were very earneſt in getting themſelves huſ⯑bands, in which they ſucceeded, by means of the Surgeon and one of the Lieutenants: they ſeemed very agreeable till bed-time, and deter⯑mined to lie in Mr. Banks's tent, which they accordingly did, till the Surgeon having ſome words with one of them Mr. Banks thruſt her out, and ſhe was followed by the reſt, except Otea Tea, who cried for ſome time, till he turn⯑ed her out alſo. This had like to have become a ſerious affair, a duel being talked of between Mr. Banks and Mr. Monkhouſe, but it was hap⯑pily [246] avoided. Dogs are eſteemed here more delicate eating than pork; as thoſe bread to be eaten taſte no animal food, but live entirely up⯑on vegetables; and the experiment was tried. Tupia undertook to kill and dreſs him, which he did, by making a hole in the ground and baking him. It was agreed by every one to be a very good diſh.

They were viſited on the 21ſt at the fort by many of the natives, who brought various kinds of preſents, and among the reſt Oamo, a Chief of ſeveral diſtricts on the iſland, whom they had never before ſeen, who brought with him a hog. This Chief was treated with great reſpect by the natives, and was accompanied by a boy, and a young woman. The boy was carried upon a man's back, though he was very able to walk. Oberea and ſome other of the Indians went out of the fort to meet them, their heads and bo⯑dies being firſt uncovered as low as the waiſt. This was conſidered as a mark of reſpect, they had not noticed it before, but judged it was uſu⯑ally ſhewn to perſons of diſtinguiſhed rank a⯑mong them. Oamo entered the tent, but the young woman, who was about ſixteen, could not be prevailed upon to accompany him, tho' ſhe ſeemed to combat with her curioſity and in⯑clination. Dr. Solander took the youth by the hand, and conducted him in; but the natives without, who had prevented the girl's entrance, ſoon found means to get him out again.

[247]The curioſity of Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen being excited from theſe circum⯑ſtances, they made enquiry, who theſe ſtrangers were, and were informed, that Oamo was Obe⯑rea's huſband, but that by mutual conſent they had been for a conſiderable time ſeparated; and that the youth and girl were their offspring. The boy was named Terridiri, and was heir ap⯑parent to the ſovereignty of the iſland; and he was to eſpouſe his ſiſter as ſoon as he had at⯑tained the proper age. The preſent ſovereign being a minor, called OUTOU, and ſon of Whap⯑pai; Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all brothers; Whappai was the ſenior, and Oamo the next; wherefore, Whappai having no child but Outou, Terridiri, ſon of Oamo, was heir to the ſovereignty. To us it will appear ſingular, that a boy ſhould reign during the life of his father; but in the iſland of Otaheite, a boy ſucceeds to his father's authority and title as ſoon as he is born; when a regent is elected, which office uſually falls upon the father, till the boy becomes of age: at this time, howe⯑ver, the election had fallen upon his uncle Tootahah, on account of his warlike exploits. Oamo was very inquiſitive with reſpect to the Engliſh, and by his queſtions he appeared a man of underſtanding and penetration.

A woman called Teetee, who came from the weſt of the iſland, preſented to the Captain an elegant garment, of a bright yellow ground, [248] bordered with red, and in the middle of it were ſeveral croſſes, which they had probably learn⯑ed from the French.

On the 23d in the morning, one of their hands being miſſing, they enquired for him a⯑mong the natives, and were told that he was at Eparre, Tootahah's reſidence in the wood; and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back, which he did that evening. On his re⯑turn he informed them, that he had been taken from the fort, and carried to the top of the bay, by three men, who having ſtripped him, forced him into a canoe, and conducted him to Eparre, where he received ſome cloaths from Tootahah, who endeavoured to prevail on him to continue there. They had great reaſon to ſuppoſe this account true, for the natives were no ſooner ac⯑quainted with his return, than they left the fort with much precipitation.

Monday June 26, early in the morning, the Captain ſet out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to circumnavigate the iſland. They ſailed to the eaſtward, and in the forenoon they went on ſhore, in a part of the iſland under the government of Ahio, a young Chief, who had often viſited them at the tents. They alſo found here ſome other natives of their acquain⯑tance. They then proceeded together to the harbour, wherein M. Bougainville lay when he viſited this iſland, and were ſhewn the ground on which he fixed his tent, and the watering-place. [249] They alſo met with Orette, a Chief, who was their particular friend, whoſe brother went away with M. Bougainville.

Having taken a ſurvey of this harbour, and a large bay near which it is ſituated, they propoſed going to the oppoſite ſide of the bay, but Titubaola, who was their con⯑ductor, not only refuſed to accompany them, but endeavoured to diſſuade the Captain and Mr. Banks from going, ſaying, ‘"That coun⯑try was inhabited by people who were not ſubjects to Tootahah, and who would deſtroy them all."’ This information did not, how⯑ever, prevent the execution of their deſign; and upon loading their pieces with ball, Titubaola took courage to go with them; they row⯑ed till it was dark, when they reached a narrow neck of land, that divided the iſland into two peninſulas, which are diſtinct governments. As they were not yet got into the hoſtile part of the country, they agreed to ſpend the night on ſhore, where they were provided with ſupper and lodging by Ooratooa, the lady who paid her compliments to Mr. Banks in ſo remarkable a manner at the fort.

In the morning they purſued their paſſage for the other government.

They landed in a diſtrict, which was governed by a Chief, named MARAITATA, the burying place of men, and his father was called PAHAI⯑REDE, the ſtealer of boats. Notwithſtanding [250] their names were ſo ominous, they gave the Captain and Mr. Banks a very civil reception; furniſhed them with proviſions, and ſold them a large hog for a hatchet. The curioſity of the natives was ſoon excited, and a crowd gathered round the Engliſh gentlemen, but they ſaw only two people whom they knew, neither did they obſerve any trinkets that had come out of the Endeavour, though they met with ſeveral Eu⯑ropean commodities, particularly two twelve pound ſhot, one of which had the Engliſh broad arrow upon it, though the Indians ſaid they had them from M. Bougainville's people. They then advanced till they reached the diſtrict, which was under the dominion of the principal Chief, or King, named Waheatua, who had a ſon, but it was not known in whoſe hands the ſovereign power was lodged. Here they found a ſpacious verdant plain, watered by a river of ſo great a width, that they were obliged to paſs it in a canoe, but their Indian followers ſwam over it with the greateſt facility. There was no houſe that appeared inhabited; but the ruins of ſeveral large ones. Having continued their journey along the ſhore for a conſiderable way, they at laſt ſaw the Chief, and with him an agreeable young wo⯑man about two and twenty, named Toudidde. They were not unacquainted with her name, as they had often heard it mentioned by the na⯑tives; and they had great reaſon to ſuppoſe ſhe was the Queen of this peninſula.

[251]In paſſing through this part of the iſland, they found it better cultivated, and more im⯑proved than any they had hitherto met with; though the houſes were but few, and thoſe very ſmall, but there were a great number of canoes which excelled any they had ſeen, both in ſize and workmanſhip. The burial places were likewiſe numerous, being found not only at every point, but at different places in the in⯑terior parts of the iſland. Theſe buildings nearly reſembled, in form, thoſe which they had ſeen at Opouroenu, but they were neater, and adorned with carvings of various figures; in one there was a cock, which was painted in imitation of the natural colour of the feathers of that bird. Notwithſtanding the fertility of the country, and its being well cultivated, ſcarce any bread-fruit was to be met with, and the inha⯑bitants ſubſiſted chiefly upon a nut, called ahee.

Finding themſelves fatigued, they now took to their boat, and in the evening landed on an iſland named Otooareite; being in want of ſome refreſhment, Mr. Banks went into the woods to try what he could obtain, but it being dark, he met with no inhabitants and but one houſe, in which he found only a bread-fruit, and a few of the nuts before-mentioned; nor were they more ſucceſsful in procuring proviſions the next morning.

Towards the ſouthermoſt part of the iſland they found a good harbour, formed by a reef, [252] and the circumjacent country is remarkably fruitful. At about three miles diſtant they land⯑ed, at a place where they found ſeveral of the natives, with whom they were intimately ac⯑quainted. After having, with a good deal of difficulty, obtained ſome cocoa-nuts, they again embarked.

They landed again a little further to the eaſt. Mathiabo, the Chief, with whom they had no acquaintance, nor had ever ſeen before, ſoon came to them, and ſupplied them with cocoa-nuts and bread fruit. They alſo purchaſed a hog of him for a glaſs bottle, which he took in preference to every other thing that was of⯑fered him. They ſaw here a turkey cock and a gooſe which the Dolphin left on the iſland, they were remarkably fat, and ſeemed to be greatly admired by the Indians.

A very uncommon ſight preſented itſelf in a houſe near this place, ſeveral human jaw-bones were faſtened to a board of a ſemicircular form; they ſeemed freſh, and had not loſt any of their teeth; but Mr. Banks could obtain no expla⯑nation of this myſtery. Upon their quitting the place, the Chief accompanied them, and piloted them over the ſhoals. They opened the bay in the evening, on the north-weſt ſide of the iſland, which correſponded with that on the ſouth-eaſt, in ſuch a manner, as to interſect the iſland at the iſthmus.

[253]Several canoes came off here with ſome very beautiful women, who appeared to be deſirous of their going on ſhore, to which they readily aſſented. They met with a very friendly recep⯑tion from the Chief, whoſe name was Wiverou, who gave directions to ſome of his people to aſ⯑ſiſt them in dreſſing their proviſions, which were now very plentiful, and they ſupped at Wive⯑rou's houſe, in company with Mathiabo. Part of the houſe was allotted for them to ſleep in, and ſoon after ſupper they retired to reſt. Ma⯑thiabo having obtained a cloak from Mr. Banks, under pretence of uſing it as a cover-let when he lay down, immediately made off with it, unper⯑ceived by that gentleman or his companions. News however of the robbery was ſoon brought them by one of the natives; in conſequence of which intelligence they ſat out in purſuit of the thief, but had proceeded a very little way before they were met by a perſon bringing back the cloak, which Mathiabo had given up through fear.

The houſe, upon their return, was entirely deſerted, and about four in the morning the centinel gave the alarm, that the boat was miſ⯑ſing. Mr. Banks and the Captain were greatly aſtoniſhed at this account, and ran to the water⯑ſide, but though the morning was clear and ſtar⯑light, no boat was viſible. Their ſituation was now extremely terrifying: the party conſiſting of but four, with a ſingle muſket and two [254] pocket piſtols, without a ſpare ball or a charge of powder. After remaining in this diſtreſsful ſtate of anxiety for a conſiderable time, dread⯑ing the advantage the Indians would take of it, to their great joy, the boat, which had been driven away by the tide, returned; Mr. Banks and his companions no ſooner breakfaſted than they departed. This place is ſituated on the north ſide of Tiarrabou, the ſouth-eaſt penin⯑ſula of the iſland, about five miles eaſt from the iſthmus, with a harbour equal to any in the iſland. It was fertile and populous, and the in⯑habitants every where behaved with civility. The laſt diſtrict in Tiarrabou, in which they landed, was governed by a Chief, named OMOE. He was building a houſe, and was ve⯑ry deſirous of purchaſing a hatchet, but Mr. Banks and the Captain had not one left. He would not trade for nails, and they embarked; the Chief following them in a canoe with his wife, in hopes of obtaining ſomething uſeful to him. The Chief and his wife were after⯑wards taken on board, and after having gone about three miles, they deſired to be put on ſhore, and their requeſt was complied with, when the Captain met with ſome of Omoe's people, who had brought with them a very large hog. The Chief agreed to exchange the hog for a large axe and a nail, and to bring the beaſt to the fort in Port Royal Bay. This reſo⯑lution he came to after conſulting with his wife; [255] and Mr. Banks judged the exchange to be very advantageous to the Engliſh, as the hog was a remarkable fine one.

At this place they ſaw one of their Eatuas, or Gods, it was made of wicker-work, and re⯑ſembled the figure of a man; it was near ſeven feet in height, and was covered with black and white feathers; on the head were four protube⯑rances, which the natives called Tate ete, or little men.

Having taken their leave of Omoe, they ſat out on their return; after rowing a few miles, they went on ſhore again, but ſaw nothing re⯑markable except a ſepulchral building, which was ornamented in an extraordinary manner. The pavement, on which was built a pyramid, was very neat; at a little diſtance there was an image of ſtone, very uncouthly carved, which the natives ſeemed to hold in a great eſtimation.

They paſſed through the harbour, which was the only one fit for ſhipping, on the ſouth of Opoureonu, ſituated about five miles to the weſtward of the iſthmus, between two ſmall iſlands not far from ſhore, and within a mile of each other. They were now near the diſtrict, named Paparra, which was governed by Oamo and Oberea, where they intended to ſpend the night. Mr. Banks and his company landed about an hour before it was dark, and found that they were both ſet out to pay them a viſit at the fort. They nevertheleſs ſlept at the houſe [256] of Oberea, which, though not large, was very neat; no inhabitant but her father was now in poſſeſſion of it, who ſhewed them much civili⯑ty. They took this opportunity of walking out to a point, upon which they had obſerved, at a diſtance, ſome trees, called Etoa, which uſually grow on the burial-places of theſe people. They call theſe burying-grounds Morai, which are alſo places of worſhip. They here ſaw an immenſe edifice, which they found to be the Morai of Oamo and Oberea, which was by far the moſt conſiderable piece of architecture to be found in the iſland.

It conſiſted of an enormous pile of ſtone work, raiſed in the form of a pyramid, with a flight of ſteps on each ſide, ſomething after the manner of thoſe little buildings, which are com⯑monly erected in England to place the pillars of ſun dials upon; it was near two hundred and ſeventy feet long, and about one-third as wide, and between forty and fifty feet high.

The foundation conſiſted of rock-ſtones, the ſteps of coral, and the upper part of round pebbles, all of the ſame ſhape and ſize; the rock and coral ſtones were ſquared with the ut⯑moſt neatneſs and regularity, and the whole building appeared as compact and firm, as if it had been erected by the beſt workmen in Eu⯑rope. As the Indians were totally deſtitute of iron utenſils to ſhape their ſtones, as well as mortar to cement them, when they had made

[257] them fit for uſe, a ſtructure of ſuch heighth and magnitude, muſt have been a work of in⯑finite labour and fatigue.

In the center of the ſummit was the repre⯑ſentation of a bird, carved in wood; cloſe to this was the figure of a fiſh; which was in ſtone. This pyramid made part of one ſide of a wide court or ſquare, the ſides of which were nearly equal; the whole was walled in, and paved with flat ſtones. Within this place grew (notwithſtanding it was in this manner pav⯑ed) ſeveral plantains, and trees which the natives call Etoa. At a little diſtance to the weſt of this edifice was another paved ſquare, which contained ſeveral ſmall ſtages, called by the natives Ewattas, which appeared to be altars; upon them they place proviſions, as ſacrifices to their gods: Mr. Banks afterwards obſerved whole hogs placed upon theſe ewattas, or altars.

The inhabitants of the iſland of Otaheite ſeem in nothing ſo deſirous of excelling each other as in the grandeur and magnificence of their ſepulchres; and the rank and authority of Oberea was forcibly evinced upon this occaſion. The gentlemen of the Endeavour, it has been obſerved, did not find Oberea poſſeſſed of the ſame power, as when the Dolphin was at this place, and they were now informed of the cauſe. The way from her houſe to the Morai, was by the ſea-ſide, and they obſerved, in all places as they paſſed along, a great number of [258] human bones. Inquiry being made into the cauſe of this extraordinary ſight, they were in⯑formed, that about four or five months before Captain Cook's arrival, the inhabitants of Ti⯑arrabou, the peninſula to the ſouth-eaſt, made a deſcent here, and ſlew many of the people, whoſe bones were thoſe that were ſeen upon the coaſt: that hereupon Oberea and Oamo, who then held the government for his ſon, had fled and taken refuge in the mountains; and that the victors deſtroyed all the houſes, and pillag⯑ed the country. Mr. Banks was alſo informed, that the turkey and gooſe which he had ſeen in the diſtrict of Mathiabo, were among the boo⯑ty; this afforded a reaſon for their being found where the Dolphin had little or no correſpon⯑dence; and the jaw-bones, being mentioned, which had been ſeen hanging in a houſe, he was informed, that they had likewiſe been carried off as trophies. The jaw-bones of their ene⯑mies being conſidered by the natives of this iſland, as great a mark of triumph, as ſcalps are by the Indians of North America.

On Friday the 30th they arrived at Otahou⯑rou, where their old acquaintance Tootahah reſided; he received them with great civility, and provided for them a good ſupper, and a convenient lodging; and notwithſtanding they were ſo ſhamefully plundered the laſt time, they ſlept with this chief. They ſpent the night in [259] the utmoſt ſecurity, none of their cloaths, or any other article, being miſſing in the morning.

On Saturday, July 1, they returned to the fort at Fort Royal Harbour; having diſcovered the iſland, both peninſulas included, to be about one hundred miles in circumference. They were now very much in want of bread-fruit, owing to the ſcarcity of the ſeaſon, and could obtain but a very ſmall quantity upon their whole tour.

Their Indian friends crouded about them up⯑on their return, and none of them came with⯑out proviſions.

Monday the 3d, Mr. Banks made an excur⯑ſion, with ſome Indian guides, to trace the ri⯑ver up the valley to its ſource, and obſerve to what extent its banks were inhabited. After meeting with houſes for the ſpace of ſix miles, they came up to one which was ſaid to be the laſt that could be ſeen. The maſter of it pre⯑ſented them with cocoa-nuts and other fruits; and after a ſhort viſit, they continued their walk. In this tour they often paſſed under vaults, form⯑ed by rocky fragments, in which, they were in⯑formed, that thoſe who were benighted often took refuge. They purſued the courſe of the river for about five or ſix miles further, and found it banked on both ſides by rocks which were almoſt perpendicular, and near one hun⯑dred feet high, notwithſtanding which, a way was to be traced up theſe dreadful precipices, [260] and their Indian guides offered to conduct them by this path to the ſummit; but as it could not be effected without the utmoſt difficulty and danger, and there appeared nothing at the top to recompence them for the fatigue and hazard of the undertaking, they declined attemping it.

Mr. Banks during this tour had a fine oppor⯑tunity of ſearching for minerals among the rocks, which were almoſt, on all ſides, naked; he found, however, not the ſmalleſt appearance of any kind of mineral. The ſtones every where reſembling thoſe of Madeira, gave ma⯑nifeſt ſigns of having been burnt. Scarce a ſingle ſtone was found during their whole ſtay upon the iſland, which had not unqueſtionable marks of fire on it, except the hatchet-ſtone, and ſome of theſe were not entirely free from it. There are alſo evident traces of fire in the clay upon the hills, both of this and the neigh⯑bouring iſlands.

Mr. Banks was engaged the 4th in planting on each ſide of the fort a great quantity of the ſeeds of water-melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and trees which he had brought from Rio de Janeiro. He gave of theſe ſeeds to the Indians in great plenty, and planted many of them in the [...]oods: ſome of the melon-ſeeds, which had been planted ſoon after his ar⯑rival, had already produced plants which ap⯑peared to be in a very flouriſhing ſtate.

[261]They now began to make preparations for their departure; but before they ſet ſail they had another viſit from Oamo, Oberea, and their ſon and daughter. The young woman, whoſe name they underſtood to be Toimata, was very curious to ſee the fort, but Oamo would by no means permit her to come in. The ſon of Waheatua, ſovereign of Tiarrabou, or the ſouth-eaſt peninſula, was alſo here at this time; and they received intelligence of the ar⯑rival of another gueſt, whoſe company they neither wiſhed for nor expected; this was the Indian who had ſtolen the quadrant.

On Friday the 7th, the carpenters were or⯑dered to take down the gates and palliſadoes of the fort, to be converted into firewood on board the Endeavour; and one of the Indians ſtole the ſtaple and hook belonging to the gate: he was inſtantly purſued; but could not be found; and ſoon after this, their old friend Tubora Tumaida brought back the ſtaple.

They continued on the 8th and 9th to pull down the fort, and their friends ſtill viſited them.

Captain Cook hoped now to quit the iſland, without any farther miſunderſtanding with the natives; but in this he was miſtaken. Two foreign ſailors having been out, one of them was robbed of his knife, and ſtriving to reco⯑ver it, the Indians attacked and wounded him in a dangerous manner with a ſtone; his com⯑panion alſo received a ſlight wound in the head. [262] As Captain Cook would have been unwilling to have taken farther notice of the tranſaction, he was not ſorry that the offenders had made their eſcape. Another affair equally diſagreea⯑ble ſoon after happened. Between the 8th and 9th in the evening; two young marines retired ſecretly from the fort, and in the morning were not to be met with. Notice having been given for all the company to go on board the next day, and that the ſhip would ſail that day or the day enſuing, Captain Cook began to fear that the marines intended to remain on ſhore. He was appriſed, that no effectual ſteps could be taken to recover them, without riſking the harmony and good fellowſhip which at preſent ſubſiſted between the Engliſh and the natives; and therefore reſolved to wait a day in hopes of their returning.

The 10th in the morning the marines not being returned, an enquiry was made after them, when the Indians declared they did not propoſe returning, having taken refuge in the moun⯑tains, where it was impoſſible to diſcover them, and that each had taken a wife. In conſequence of which it was intimated to ſeveral of the Chiefs who were in the fort with their women, among whom were Tubora Tumaida, Tomio and Oberea, that they would not be ſuffered to quit it till the deſerters were produced. Captain Cook thought this precaution neceſſary, as, by concealing them a ſhort time, he might be com⯑pelled [263] to go without them; they received the intimation with very little ſigns either of fear or diſcontent, aſſuring the Captain that the ma⯑rines ſhould be ſent back. In the interim he ſent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to bring Toota⯑hah on board the ſhip, which he executed with⯑out giving any alarm. Night coming on, Captain Cook judged it was not prudent to let the people, whom he had detained as hoſtages, remain at the fort, and he therefore ordered Tubora Tumaida, Oberea, and ſome others, to be brought on board. This gave an unuſual alarm, and ſeveral of them, eſpecially the fe⯑males, teſtified their apprehenſions with great agitation of mind, and floods of tears, when they were coming on board. Captain Cook went on board with them, Mr. Banks remain⯑ing on ſhore with ſome others, whom he thought it of leſs importance to detain.

One of the marines was brought back in the evening by ſome of the Indians, who reported, that the other, and the two people who were ſent to fetch them back, would be detained whilſt Tootahah was confined. Mr. Hicks was immediately diſpatched in the long-boat, with ſeveral men, to reſcue the Engliſh priſoners; at the ſame time Captain Cook told Tootahah, that it was incumbent on him to aſſiſt them with ſome of his people, and to give orders, in his name, that the men ſhould be ſet at liberty, for that he ſhould expect him to anſwer for the [264] event. Tootahah immediately complied, and this party recovered the men without any oppo⯑ſition. About ſeven in the morning on the 11th they returned, but without the arms which had been taken from them when they were made priſoners: the arms were however brought on board ſoon after, and the Chiefs were allowed to return on ſhore.

At the time the Chiefs were ſet on ſhore from the ſhip, thoſe at the fort were alſo releaſed, and after remaining with Mr. Banks about an hour and a half, they all returned to their re⯑ſpective places of reſidence. When the de⯑ſerters were examined, it was diſcovered, that the account which the Indians had given was no way falſe: they had become fond of two girls, and it was their deſign to keep themſelves concealed till the ſhip had ſet ſail, and continue upon the iſland.

Tupia, whoſe name has been often mention⯑ed in this voyage, had been prime miniſter of Oberea, when ſhe was at the pinnacle of her authority: he was alſo the principal prieſt of the iſland, and therefore intimately acquainted with the religion of the country. He was like⯑wiſe deeply verſed in navigation, and was tho⯑roughly acquainted with the number, ſituation, inhabitants and produce of the adjacent iſlands. He had often teſtified a deſire to go with them; and on Wedneſday the 12th, in the morning, he came on board, with a boy about twelve [265] years of age, his ſervant, named Taiyota, and requeſted the gentlemen on board, to let him go with them. As it was thought he would be uſeful to them in many particulars, they unanimouſly agreed to comply with his requeſt. Tupia then went aſhore for the laſt time to ſee his friends, and took with him ſeveral bau⯑bles to give them as parting tokens of remem⯑brance.

Mr. Banks being willing to obtain a drawing of the Morai, in poſſeſſion of Tootahah, at Eparre, Captain Cook accompanied him thither in the pinnace, together with Dr. Solander. They immediately, upon landing, repaired to Tootahah's houſe, where they were met by Oberea, and ſeveral others. A general good underſtanding prevailed, and they promiſed to viſit the gentlemen early the next day, to take leave of them, as they were told that the ſhip would then ſet ſail. There alſo they met Tupia, who came back with them, and ſlept for the firſt time on board the ſhip.

Thurſday the 13th of July, the ſhip was vi⯑ſited by a multitude of the gentlemen's friends, and ſurrounded by numberleſs canoes, which contained the inferior natives. They weighed anchor about twelve, and the Indians took their leaves of the gentlemen on board, weeping in a friendly and affecting manner. Tupia ſup⯑ported himſelf in this ſcene with a becoming fortitude, tears flowed from his eyes, its true, [266] but the effort that he made to conceal them did him additional honour. He went with Mr. Banks to the maſt head, where he continued waving his hand to the canoes as long as they re⯑mained viſible.

The longitude of Port Royal Bay, as ſettled by Captain Wallis, was found to be within half a degree of its real ſituation. Point Venus, the northern extremity of the iſland, and the eaſtern point of the bay, lies in the longitude 149 degrees 30 minutes. Port Royal Bay, which is equal to any in Otaheite, may eaſily be diſcovered by a remarkable high mountain in the center of the iſland, bearing due ſouth from Point Venus. The ſhore of the bay is a fine ſandy beach, behind which runs a river of freſh water; any number of ſhips may water here without any inconvenience to each other. The only wood for firing, upon the whole iſland, is that of fruit-trees, which muſt be purchaſed of the natives, or it is impoſſible to live upon good terms with them.

According to Tupia's account, the iſland could furniſh above ſix thouſand fighting men, whereby a computation of the number of in⯑habitants may eaſily be made.

The produce of Otaheite is bread-fruit, co⯑coa-nuts, bananas, plantains; a fruit not un⯑like an apple, potatoes, yams, cocoas, ſugar⯑cane, and a variety of other fruits and vege⯑tables.

[267]They have no European fruits, garden ſtuff, or pulſe, nor grain of any ſpecies. Their tame animals are hogs, dogs, and poultry; there is not a wild animal in the iſland, except ducks, pigeons, parroquets, and a few other birds; rats being the only quadruped, and there are no ſerpents. The ſea however ſupplies them with great variety of excellent fiſh.

With regard to the people, they are in gene⯑ral rather of a larger make than Europeans. The males are tall, robuſt, and finely ſhaped. The females of the ſuperior claſs are likewiſe generally above our common ſize; but thoſe of the lower rank are rather below it, and ſome of them are remarkably little.

Their natural complexion is a fine clear olive, or what we call brunette, their ſkin is delicate⯑ly ſmooth and agreeably ſoft. The ſhape of their faces is in general handſome, and their eyes are full of ſenſibility and expreſſion, their teeth are likewiſe remarkably white and regu⯑lar, and their breath intirely free from any diſ⯑agreeable ſmell; their hair is for the moſt part black. The men, unlike the original inhabi⯑tants of America, have long beards, which they wear in various forms; and what is very remarkable, circumciſion is almoſt univerſally practiſed among them, from a motive of clean⯑lineſs; having a peculiar term of reproach, with which they upbraid thoſe who do not adopt this cuſtom. Both ſexes always eradicate the [268] hair from their arm-pits, and they often re⯑proached the Engliſh gentlemen with a want of cleanlineſs, for not making uſe of the ſame method. Their motions are eaſy and graceful, but not vigorous; their deportment is generous and open, and their behaviour affable and courteous. They appeared of a brave, noble, and candid diſpoſition; equally ſtrangers to the baſe and unworthy paſſions of cruelty, trea⯑chery, or revenge, and ſetting aſide their vio⯑lent prepenſity to thieving, it may fairly be ſaid, that their general characters would loſe nothing in the compariſon with thoſe of the moſt civilized nation under the globe.

Contrary to the cuſtom of almoſt all other countries, the women of this iſland cut their hair quite ſhort, whereas the men wear it long, ſometimes hanging looſe on their ſhoulders, and at others tied in a knot on the crown of their heads, in which they ſtick the feathers of birds of various colours.

Both ſexes frequently wear a piece of cloth of the manufacture of the iſland tied round their heads in the form of a turban; and the women take no little pains in plaiting human hair into long ſtrings, which being folded into branches, are tied on their foreheads by way of ornament.

Th [...]re is a cuſtom likewiſe prevalent among th [...]m [...]f anointing their heads with an oil ex⯑tracted from the cocoa-nut. The ſmell of [269] which is not altogether agreeable, as the cli⯑mate is hot, and they are not provided with any thing ſimilar to a comb, their heads are not clear from vermin: it evidently appeared, how⯑ever, to be more the effect of neceſſity than in⯑clination, as thoſe to whom they gave combs immediately got rid of theſe diſagreeable com⯑panions.

They ſtain their bodies, by indenting or pricking the fleſh with a ſmall inſtrument made of bone, cut into ſhort teeth; which indentures they fill with a dark blue or blackiſh mixture, prepared from the ſmoke or an oily nut, burnt by them inſtead of candles and water; this operation, which is called by the natives Tat⯑taowing, is exceedingly painful, and leaves an indelible mark on the ſkin. It is uſually per⯑formed when they are about ten or twelve years of age, and on different parts of the body; but thoſe which ſuffer moſt ſeverely are the breech and the loins, which are marked with arches, carried one above another a conſiderable way up their backs.

At the operation of Tattaowing, performed upon the poſteriors of a girl about twelve years of age, Mr. Banks was preſent, it was ex⯑ecuted with an inſtrument that had twenty teeth, and at each ſtroke, which was repeated every moment, ſerum mixed with blood iſſued. She bore it with great reſolution for ſeveral mi⯑nutes; but at length the pain became ſo vio⯑lent, [270] that ſhe murmured and complained, and then burſt into the moſt violent lamentations; but her operator was inexorable, whilſt ſome females preſent chid, and even beat her. Mr. Banks was a ſpectator for near an hour, during which time it was performed only on one ſide, the other having undergone the ceremony ſome⯑time before; and the arches upon the loins, which are the moſt painful, but upon which they the moſt pique themſelves, were yet to be made.

They cloath themſelves in cloth and matting of various kinds; the firſt they wear in fair, the latter in wet weather. They are in differ⯑ent forms, no ſhape being preſerved in them, nor are the pieces ſewed together. The women of a ſuperior claſs wear three or four pieces; one, which is of conſiderable length, they wrap ſeveral times round their waiſts, and it falls down to the middle of the leg. Two or three other ſhort pieces, with a hole cut in the mid⯑dle of each, are placed on one another, and their heads coming through the holes, the long ends hang before and behind, both ſides being open, by which means they have the free uſe of their arms.

The mens dreſs is very ſimilar, differing only in one inſtance, which is that part of the garment in⯑ſtead of falling below the knees, is brought be⯑tween the legs. This dreſs is worn by all ranks of people, the only diſtinction being quantity in

[271] the ſuperior claſs. At noon both ſexes appear almoſt naked, wearing only the piece of cloth that is tied round the waiſt. Their faces are ſhaded from the ſun with ſmall bonnets, made of cocoa-nut leaves or matting which are con⯑ſtructed in a few minutes. The men ſome⯑times wear a ſort of wig, made of human or dogs hair, or of cocoa-nut ſtrings, woven on a ſingle thread, which is faſtened under their hair, and hangs down behind. Both men and women wear ear-rings on one ſide, conſiſting of ſhells, ſtones, berries, or ſmall pearls; but they ſoon gave the perference to the beads, brought by the Endeavour's company.

The boys and girls go quite naked; the firſt till they are ſeven or eight years old; the latter till they are about five. Their houſes, which have been deſcribed already, they ſeldom uſe but to ſleep in, or to avoid the rain, as they eat in the open air, under the ſhade of a tree. Their clothes ſerve them at night for covering, and there are no diviſions or apartments. The maſter and his wife repoſe in the middle, then the married people; next to theſe the unmar⯑ried females, and at a ſmall diſtance the men who are unmarried; and the ſervants ſleep in the open air in fair weather. The houſes of the Chiefs, however, differ in ſome degree; there are ſome very ſmall, and ſo built as to be car⯑ried in canoes: all ſides of them are incloſed with the leaves of the cocoa-nut; the air, ne⯑vertheleſs, [272] penetrates, in theſe the Chief and his wife alone ſleep. There are alſo houſes which are general receptacles for the inhabitants of a diſtrict. Theſe are much larger, many being more than two hundred feet in length, forty in breadth, and ſeventy or eighty feet high. They are conſtructed at the common expence, and have an area on one ſide ſurrounded with low palliſades; but like the others have no walls.

When a Chief kills a hog, which is but ſel⯑dom, he divides it equally among his vaſſals; dogs and fowls are more common.

When the bread-fruit in not in ſeaſon, they are ſupplied by cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, &c.

Their cookery conſiſts chiefly of baking, the manner of doing which has been already deſ⯑cribed. They bake their bread-fruit in the ſame way, which renders it ſomething like a mealy potatoe; of this fruit three diſhes are made, by beating it to a paſte, and mixing it with bana⯑nas, plantains, or the ſour paſte, which the natives nominate Mahie.

This paſte is made by taking bread-fruit, which is not thoroughly ripe, and laying it in heaps, covered with leaves, by which means it ferments, the core is then taken out, and the fruit put into a hole lined with graſs; it is then again covered with leaves, upon which large ſtones are placed; this produces a ſecond fer⯑mentation, after which it grows ſour, and un⯑dergoes [273] no change for a long time; they take it from this hole as they have occaſion for it, and making it into balls, it is rolled up in plan⯑tain-leaves and baked; as it will keep for ſome weeks after it is dreſſed, they eat it both hot and cold.

Such is the food of theſe people, their ſauce to which never conſiſts of any thing but ſalt water. As to their drink, it is generally con⯑fined to water, or the milk of the cocoa nuts, though there were inſtances in which ſome of them drank ſo freely of the Engliſh liquors, as to become quite intoxicated; this, however, ſeemed to proceed more from ignorance than deſign, as they were never known to repeat a debauch of this kind a ſecond time. They were told indeed that the Chiefs ſometimes be⯑came inebriated by drinking the juice of a plant called Ava, but of this they ſaw no inſtance during the time they remained on the iſland.

The Chiefs generally eat alone, unleſs when viſited by a ſtranger, who is ſometimes per⯑mitted to become a ſecond in their meſs; hav⯑ing nothing to ſupply the want of a table, they ſit on the ground in the ſhade; leaves of trees being ſpread before them ſerve as a table-cloth; their attendants, who are numerous, having placed a baſket by the Chiefs, containing their proviſions, and a cocoa-nut ſhell of freſh and ſalt water, ſeat themſelves round them; they then begin by waſhing their mouth and hands, after [274] which they eat a mouthful of bread-fruit and fiſh, dipt in ſalt water alternately, till the whole is conſumed, taking a ſup of ſalt water likewiſe between almoſt every morſel. The bread-fruit and fiſh being all eaten, they next have either plantains or apples, which they never eat with⯑out being pared. During this time a ſoft paſte is prepared from the bread-fruit, which they ſup out of a cocoa-nut ſhell; this finiſhes the meal, and the hands and mouth are again waſh⯑ed as at the beginning.

It is aſtoniſhing how much food they eat at a meal; Mr. Banks and ſome other gentlemen were preſent when one man devoured three fiſh the ſize of a middling carp, four bread fruits as large as a common melon, thirteen or fourteen plantains ſeven or eight inches long, and above half as big round, and about a quart of the paſte made of bread-fruit.

It is not a little ſurprizing, that the inhabi⯑tants of this iſland, who ſeemed exceedingly ſenſible of the pleaſures of ſociety, ſhould have an univerſal averſion to the leaſt intercourſe with each other at their meals, and ſo rigid are they in the obſervance of this unuſual cuſtom, that even brothers and ſiſters have their ſeparate baſkets to contain their proviſions, and gene⯑rally ſit ſome yards diſtance when they eat, with their backs turned towards each other, not ex⯑changing a ſingle word during the whole time of their repaſt; the middle aged of ſuperior [275] rank uſually betake themſelves to ſleep after dinner, but what is remarkable, the older peo⯑ple are not ſo lazy; muſic, dancing, wreſtling, and ſhooting with the bow, or throwing a lance, conſtitute a chief part part of their diverſions.

Flutes which have been mentioned before, and drums, are the only muſical inſtruments among them; their drums are formed of a cir⯑cular piece of wood, hollow at one end only, which is covered with the ſkin of a ſhark, and they are beaten with the hand inſtead of a ſtick. Their ſongs are extempore, and frequently in rhime, but conſiſt of only two lines; theſe couplets are often ſung by way of evening amuſements, between ſun-ſet and bed-time, during which time they are not deſtitute of lights, having candles which they make of an oily nut, fixing them one above another, upon a ſmall ſtick run through the middle; ſome of theſe candles burn a long time, and afford a pretty good light.

Among their other amuſements, they have a dance named Timorodee, which is performed by ten or a dozen young females, who put themſelves into the moſt wanton attitudes that can poſſibly be imagined, keeping time during the performance with the greateſt nicety and ex⯑actneſs, from theſe dances the women are imme⯑diately excluded on their becoming pregnant.

Many of the principal people of this iſland, of each ſex, have united into an aſſociation, in which no woman confines her favours to any [276] particular man; in this manner they obtain a perpetual variety, no one object ever gratifying them but a few days.

Theſe ſocieties are named Arreoy, the mem⯑bers of which have meetings where the men amuſe themſelves by wreſtling; and notwith⯑ſtanding the frequent intercourſe which the wo⯑men have with a variety of men, they dance the Timorodee in ſuch a manner, as they ima⯑gine will moſt excite the deſires of the male ſex, and which are often gratified upon the ſpot. There are yet much worſe practices. In caſe any of the women prove with child, which in this manner of life ſeldom happens, they deſtroy the helpleſs infant as ſoon as it is brought into the world, that it may not be a burden to the fa⯑ther, nor interrupt the mother in the purſuit of her laſcivious amuſements. Natural affection, however, for the child ſometimes happily pro⯑duces a reformation in the mother, but when this happens, the child's life is always forfeited, unleſs the mother can procure a man to adopt it as his child, in which caſe this inhuman mur⯑der is prevented, but both the man and woman are for ever expelled this ſociety. The woman being particularized by the appellation of Whannownow, ‘"bearer of children"’, which among theſe people, is conſidered as a term of the greateſt reproach.

Their perſonal cleanlineſs is an object that merits peculiar attention. Both ſexes never [277] omit to waſh with water three times a day; when they riſe, at noon, and before they go to reſt. They alſo keep their cloaths extremely clean; ſo that in the largeſt communities no diſagreeable effluvia ever ariſes, nor is there any other inconvenience than heat.

The chief manufacture of Otaheite is cloth; of this cloth there are three different ſorts, which are made of the bark of as many differ⯑ent trees, viz. the mulberry, the bread-fruit, and a tree not very unlike the wild fig-tree, which is found in ſome parts of the Weſt Indies. The mulberry-tree, which the Indians call Aouta, produces the fineſt cloth, which is ſeldom worn but by thoſe of the firſt rank. The next ſort, which is worn by the lower claſs of people, is made of the bread-fruit tree, and the coarſeſt of the tree reſembling the fig-tree. This laſt ſort, though more uſeful than the two former on account of its keeping cut water, which neither of the others will, is exceedingly ſcarce, being manufactured but in ſmall quantities.

The ſame method is uſed in manufacturing theſe three cloths, notwithſtanding they are all different; a deſcription therefore of their man⯑ner of making one, will ſuffice for the whole.

Having ſtript off the bark of the trees, it is ſoaked in water for two or three days, they then take it out and ſeparate the inner bark from the external coat, by ſcraping it with a ſhell, after which it is ſpread out on plantain-leaves, plac⯑ing [278] two or three layers one over another, and taking care to make it of an equal thickneſs in every part; it continues in this ſtate till it is nearly dry, when it adheres together ſo firmly, that it may be taken from the ground without breaking. After this proceſs it is laid on a ſmooth board, and beaten with an inſtrument made for that purpoſe, of a compact heavy wood, called by the natives Etoa. This inſtru⯑ment is about fourteen inches long, and ſeven in circumference; it is of a quadrangular ſhape, and each of the four ſides is marked with lon⯑gitudinal grooves or furrows, differing in this inſtance, that there is a regular gradation in the width and depth of the grooves on each of the ſides, the coarſer ſide containing not more than ten of theſe furrows, and the fineſt above ſixty.

They begin to beat their cloth with that ſide of the mallet where the grooves are deepeſt and wideſt, and proceeding regularly with the others, finiſh with that which has the greateſt number; by this beating it is extended in a manner ſimilar to the gold which is formed into leaves by the hammer, and is marked with an appearance of little channels, not unlike thoſe which are viſible on paper, but rather deeper; it is in general beat very thin, and when they want it thicker than common, they take two or three pieces and paſte them toge⯑ther with a kind of glue, prepared from a root called Pea.

[279]This cloth becomes exceedingly white by bleaching, and is died of a red, yellow, brown, or black colour: the firſt of which is exceed⯑ingly beautiful, and equal, if not ſuperior, to any in Europe. They make this red colour from a mixture of the juices of two vegetables, neither of which uſed ſeparately has this effect.

Matting of various kinds is another conſider⯑able manufacture, in which they excel, in ma⯑ny reſpects, the Europeans. They make uſe of the coarſer ſort to ſleep on, and in wet wea⯑ther they wear the finer.

They greatly excel in the baſket and wicker⯑work; both men and women employ themſelves at it, and can make it of a great number of dif⯑ferent patterns.

They make ropes and lines of all ſizes of the bark of the poerou, and their nets for fiſhing are made of theſe lines: the fibres of the co⯑coa-nut they make thread of, ſuch as they uſe to faſten together the ſeveral parts of their ca⯑noes; the forms of which are various, accord⯑ing to the uſe to which they are applied.

Their fiſhing-lines are eſteemed the beſt in the world, made of the bark of the Erowa, a kind of nettle which grows on the mountains; they are ſtrong enough to hold the heavieſt and moſt vigorous fiſh, ſuch as bonetas and albicores; in ſhort, they are extremely ingenious in every expedient for taking all kinds of fiſh.

[280]The tools which theſe people make uſe of for building houſes, conſtructing canoes, hew⯑ing ſtone, and for felling, cleaving, carving and poliſhing timber, conſiſt of nothing more than an adze of ſtone, and a chiſſel of bone, moſt commonly that of a man's arm; and for a file or poliſher, they make uſe of a raſp of coral, and coral ſand.

The blades of their adzes are extremely tough, but not very hard; they make them of various ſizes, thoſe for felling weigh ſix or ſeven pounds; and others which are uſed for carving, only a few ounces; they are obliged, every minute, to ſharpen them on a ſtone, which is always kept near them for that purpoſe.

The moſt difficult taſk they meet with in the uſe of theſe tools, is the felling of a tree, which employs a great number of hands for ſe⯑veral days together.

The tree which is in general uſe is called Avie, the ſtem of which is ſtrait and tall. Some of their ſmaller boats are made of the bread-fruit tree, which is wrought without much dif⯑ficulty, being of a light ſpongy nature. In⯑ſtead of planes, they uſe their adzes with great dexterity. Their canoes are all ſhaped with the hand, the Indians not being acquainted with the method of warping a plank.

They have two kinds of canoes, one they call Ivahahs, the other Pahies; the former is uſed for ſhort voyages at ſea, and the latter for [281] longer ones. Theſe boats do not differ either in ſhape or ſize; but they are in no degree pro⯑portionate, being from ſixty or ſeventy feet to ten in length, and not more than the thirtieth part in breadth. Some are employed in going from one iſland to another, and others uſed for fiſhing. There is alſo the Ivahah, which ſerves for fighting; theſe are by far the longeſt, and the head and ſtern are conſiderably raiſed above the body. Theſe Ivahahs are faſtened together, ſide by ſide when they go to ſea, at the diſtance of a few feet, by ſtrong wooden poles, which are laid acroſs them and joined to each ſide. A ſtage or platform is raiſed on the fore-part about ten or twelve feet long; upon which ſtand the fighting men, whoſe miſſile weapons are ſlings and ſpears. Beneath theſe ſtages the rowers ſit, who ſupply the place of thoſe who are wounded.

The fiſhing Ivahahs are from thirty or forty to ten feet in length; and thoſe for travelling have a ſmall houſe fixed on board, which is faſ⯑tened upon the fore-part, for the better accom⯑modation of perſons of rank, who occupy them both day and night.

The Pahies differ alſo in ſize, being from ſix⯑ty to ſeventy feet long, they are likewiſe very narrow, and are ſometimes uſed for fighting, but chiefly for long voyages. In going from one iſland to another, they ſometimes are out a month, and often at ſea a fortnight or twenty [282] days, and if they had convenience to ſtow more proviſions, they could ſtay out much longer.

Theſe veſſels are very uſeful in landing, and putting off from the ſhore in a ſurf; for by their great length and high ſterns they landed dry, when the Endeavour's boats could ſcarcely land at all.

They are very curious in the conſtruction of theſe boats, the chief parts or pieces whereof are formed ſeparately without either ſaw, plane, chiſſel, or any other iron tool, which renders their fabrication more ſurprizing and worthy ob⯑ſervation.

Theſe parts being prepared, the keel is fixed upon blocks, and the planks are ſupported with props, till they are ſewed or joined together with ſtrong plaited thongs, which are paſſed ſeveral times through holes bored with a chiſſel of bone, ſuch as they uſually make uſe of; and when finiſhed, they are ſufficiently tight with⯑out caulking.

They keep theſe boats with great care in a kind of ſhed, built on purpoſe to contain them.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were at a loſs to find out their method of dividing time; they always made uſe of the term Malama, which ſignifies moon, whenever they ſpoke of time, either paſt or to come; they reckon thirteen of theſe moons, beginning again when they are expired. This proves that they have ſome idea of the ſolar year; but theſe gentlemen could [283] not diſcover how they computed their months, ſo as to make thirteen of them equal to the year; for the natives ſay, that their month con⯑ſiſts of twenty-nine days, one day, in which the moon is inviſible, being included. They knew the fruits that would be in ſeaſon, and even the prevailing weather of the months to come.

They divide the day into twelve parts, each conſiſting of two hours, ſix belonging to the day, and the other ſix to the night. They reckon from one to ten when they numerate, making uſe of their fingers, and changing hands till they come to the number which they intend to expreſs, and in converſation they joined ſigns to their words, which were remarkably expreſſive of their meaning.

They are not ſo expert in meaſuring diſtances, as in computing numbers; for when they ſpeak of the diſtance from one place to another, they are obliged to expreſs it by the time that would be taken to paſs it.

Their language is ſoft and muſical, abounds with vowels, and is eaſy to be pronounced. But whether it is copious, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were not ſufficiently acquainted with it to know. As very few either of their nouns or verbs are declinable, it muſt conſequently be very imperfect. They found means, however, to be mutually underſtood without much dif⯑ficulty.

[284]The following ſpecimen will poſſibly enable the reader to form ſome idea of their language.

• Teine, a brother.
• Tooaheine, a ſiſter.
• Tane, a huſband.
• Aree, a chief.
• Midee, a child.
• Aheine, a woman.
• Erowroo, the head.
• Matau, the eyes.
• Eahoo, the noſe.
• Meyoooo, the nails.
• Huaheine, a wife.
• Oowhau, the thighs.
• Kipoo a meemhee, a chamber-pot.
• Oorè dehaiya, a large nail.
• Oorè eeteea, a ſmall nail.
• Pahiè, a ſhip.
• Aihoo, a garment.
• Parawei, a ſhirt.
• Tumatau, a bonnet.
• Poe, ear-rings.
• Epanoo, a drum.
• Toonoah, a mole in the ſkin.
• Hooare, ſpittle.
• Epeènei, an eccho.
• Mahana, a day.
• Poa, a night.
• Otaowa, yeſterday.
• Aouna, to day.
• Oboboa, to-morrow.
• Tatta te Hàmannee Màitài, a good-na⯑tured perſon.
• Amawhattoo, a ſhrew.
• Epehe, a ſong.
• Teà, white.
• Marroowhai, dry.
• Myty, good.
• Porai, to talk.
• Mutee, to kiſs.
• Eàwow, to ſcold.
• Emòto, to box.
• Eei, to eat.
• Matte roah, to die.
• Mayneenee, to tickle.
• Itopa, to fall.
• Ainao, take care.
• Eeyo, look you.
• Neeheeo, good night.
• Waow, I.
• Tooanahoe, you and I.
• Wahaa, fire.
• Avy, water.

[285]In reſpect to diſeaſes, the natives are ſeldom afflicted with any, except ſometimes an acciden⯑tal fit of the cholic. They are ſubject to the eriſypelas, attended with cutaneous eruptions, not unlike the leproſy; and if they have had it for any time to a certain degree, they are ſe⯑cluded from all ſociety, and live alone in a ſmall houſe, in ſome unfrequented part of the iſland.

Here the management of the ſick falls to the lot of the prieſts, and their method of cure con⯑ſiſts chiefly of prayers and ceremonies, which are repeated till the patients recover or die. If they recover, they attribute the cure to theſe re⯑medies; if they die, like the medical tribe of this and every other country, they ſay the diſ⯑eaſe was incurable.

From their connection with the Europeans, they have entailed upon themſelves that dread⯑ful curſe, the venereal diſeaſe; which, upon en⯑quiry, evidently appeared to have been brought among them by the veſſels under the command of Monſ. Bougainville. It was called by a name ſomewhat ſimilar, in meaning, to rotten⯑neſs, but of a much ſtronger import; and they gave a moſt ſhocking account of the ſufferings of thoſe who were firſt infected with it; telling them, that their nails and hair fell off, and the fleſh even rotted from their bones: and ſo greatly were they terrified at the dreadful effects of this alarming diſeaſe, that the infected perſon was forſaken even by his own relations, and left to [286] periſh by himſelf, in ſuch a ſtate of miſery and pain as he had never before experienced.

The religion of theſe people appeared to be exceedingly myſterious; and as the language uſed on the occaſion was different from that ſpoken in common, they were not able to ob⯑tain much information reſpecting it, but from what little they could learn from their friend Tupia, theſe Indians ſeemed to have adopted ſtrange notions of the creation of the world; imagining that every thing was derived from procreation, and the conjunction of two per⯑ſons. The ſupreme Deity, one of theſe two firſt Beings, they call TAROATAIHETOOMOO; and the other, TEPAPA. The year which is call⯑ed TETTOWMATATAYO, is ſuppoſed to be the daughter of the two firſt. They alſo imagine, that there is an inferior race of Deities, whom they call EATUAS. They ſay, two of theſe Ea⯑tuas formerly inhabited the earth, and that the firſt man deſcended from them.

They emphatically ſtile the ſupreme Being, the Cauſer of Earthquakes; but their prayers are more generally addreſſed to Tane, ſuppoſed to be a ſon of the firſt progenitors of nature.

They believe in the exiſtence of the ſoul in a ſeparate ſtate, and that there are two ſituations, differing in their degrees of happineſs, which they conſider as receptacles for different ranks, but not as places of reward and puniſhment; they ſuppoſe, that their Chiefs and principal

[287] people will have the preference to thoſe of in⯑ferior rank, as they imagine their actions no way influence their future ſtate, and that their Deities take no cognizance of them whatſoever.

The office of prieſt is hereditary; there are ſeveral of them, and of all ranks; the Chief is reſpected next to their Kings, and they are ſuperior to the reſt of the natives not only in point of divine knowledge, but alſo in that of navigation and aſtronomy.

The prieſts here are no way concerned with the ceremony of marriage, it being a ſimple a⯑greement between the man and woman; and when they chuſe to ſeparate, it is done with as little ceremony as that of their marriage.

Theſe people do not ſeem to be any way guil⯑ty of idolatry, as they worſhip no kind of images whatever. They enter their morais with great reverence and humility, and when they bring their offering to the altar, their body is uncovered to the waiſt.

There is a ſubordination among them, that much reſembles the early ſtate of every nation in Europe under the feudal ſyſtem, which ſe⯑cured, to a ſmall number, the moſt unreſtrain⯑ed liberty, while the reſt were abject ſlaves.

Their ranks or orders are, Earee rahie, which ſignifies King; Earee, Baron; Manahouni, Vaſ⯑ſal; and Toutou, Villain. The Earee rahie, of which there are two, one belonging to each of the peninſulas of which this iſland conſiſts, had [288] great reſpect ſhewn them by all ranks. The Earees are Lords of one or more of the diſtricts, into which each of the peninſulas is divided; and they ſeparate their territories into lots, which are given to the Manahounies, who reſpectively cultivate that ſhare which they hold under the baron. But they are only nominal cultivators, this as well as all other laborious work being done by the Toutous, or lower claſs of people.

The Sovereign or Earee rahie, and the Ba⯑ron or Earee, are ſucceeded in titles and ho⯑nours by their children as ſoon as they are born, the fathers being immediately diveſted of them; but they remain poſſeſſors and managers of their eſtates.

In caſe of a general attack upon the iſland, every diſtrict, under the command of an Earee, furniſhes a proportionate number of fighting men for the defence of the common cauſe, and they are commanded in chief by the Earee rahie.—According to Tupia's account, the number furniſhed by the principal diſtricts amounted to ſix thouſand and upwards.

Slings, with which they are very dextrous, pikes headed with ſtone, and long clubs made of wood, remarkably hard and heavy, conſtitute their weapons. With theſe they fight with great obſtinacy and cruelty, giving no quarter to either man, woman or child, if they fall into their hands in time of battle.

[289]During the ſtay of the Endeavour, there was a perfect good underſtanding between the Earee rahies of the two peninſulas, though the Earee rahie of Tiarreboo, arrogated to himſelf the title of King of the whole iſland; which the other con⯑ſidered, as it really was, a mere nominal claim, and only a feather in his cap. There is nothing among them ſubſtituted for money, or a general medium, by which every object may be pur⯑chaſed or procured; neither can any permanent good be unlawfully obtained by force or fraud; and the general commerce with women, ſets aſide almoſt every excitement for committing adul⯑tery. In a word, in a government ſo little po⯑liſhed, though diſtributive juſtice cannot be re⯑gularly adminiſtered; as there can at the ſame time be but few crimes for the exerciſe of it, the want of this juſtice is not ſo ſeverely felt, as it would be in more civilized ſocieties.

Thurſday July the 13th, after leaving the iſland of Otaheite, they ſailed with a gentle breeze and clear weather; and were informed by Tupia, that four iſlands, which he called Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, were at the diſtance of about one or two days ſail, and that hogs, fowls, and other refreſhments, which had lately been ſcarce, were to be got there in abundance. They accordingly ſteered their courſe in ſearch of theſe iſlands, and on Satur⯑day the 15th, diſcovered the iſland of Hua⯑heine; and on the 16th, in the morning, they [290] ſounded near the north-weſt part of the iſland, but found no bottom with ſeventy fathom. Several canoes immediately put off, but they appeared fearful of coming near the ſhip, till they ſaw Tupia, which totally removed their apprehenſions, and they ventured to come along-ſide, and upon aſſurances of friendſhip, the King of Huaheine and his Queen went on board. Aſtoniſhment was teſtified by their Majeſties at every thing that was ſhewn them; yet they made no reſearches, and appeared ſa⯑tisfied with what was preſented to their obſer⯑vation, making no enquiry after any other ob⯑jects, though it was reaſonable to ſuppoſe, that a building of ſuch novelty and extent as the ſhip muſt have afforded many curioſities. The King, whoſe name was Oree, made a propoſal to exchange names with Captain Cook, which was readily aſſented to. The cuſtom of exchang⯑ing names is very prevalent in this iſland, and is conſidered as a mark of friendſhip. They found the people here nearly ſimilar to thoſe of Otaheite in almoſt every circumſtance, except, if Tupia might be credited, they were not ad⯑dicted to thieving. Having come to an anchor in a ſmall but fine harbour, on the weſt ſide of the iſland, Captain Cook went aſhore, accom⯑panied by Mr. Banks and ſome other gentlemen, with Tupia and the King. The inſtant they landed, Tupia uncovered himſelf as low as his waiſt, and deſired Mr. Monkhouſe to fol⯑low [293] his example. Being ſeated, he now begun a ſpeech, which laſted about twenty minutes; the King, who ſtood oppoſite to him, anſwering in what ſeemed to be ſet replies. During this diſcourſe he delivered, at different times, a handkerchief, a black ſilk neckcloth, ſome beads and plantains, as preſents to their Eatua, or Deity. He received in return for the Eatua, of the Engliſh, a hog, ſome young plantains, and two bunches of feathers, which were car⯑ried on board. Theſe ceremonies were con⯑ſidered as a kind of ratification of a treaty be⯑tween the Engliſh and the King of Huaheine.

On the 17th they went again on ſhore, and walked up into the country, the productions of which greatly reſembled thoſe of Otaheite; the rocks and clay ſeemed, however, more burnt; the boat-houſes were large, and the other houſes neat. The level part of the country affords the moſt beautiful landſcapes that the imagina⯑tion can poſſibly form an idea of; the ſoil is exceedingly fertile, and the ſhores are lined with fruit trees of different kinds, particularly the cocoa-nut, which was ſeen in great abundance.

They alſo went on ſhore on the 18th without Tupia, but his boy, whoſe name was Tayota, accompanied them, and Mr. Banks propoſed taking a more perfect view of a kind of cheſt, or ark, which he had before obſerved; the lid of this ark was ſewed on in a peculiar manner, and thatched with palm-nut leaves. It was [292] placed upon two poles, and ſuſtained on ſmall carved arches of wood, the poles ſerved to re⯑move it from one place to another, in the man⯑ner of a ſedan chair; it is very ſurpriſing, that this cheſt was of a form greatly reſembling the ark of the Lord among the Jews; but what was ſtill more extraordinary, the boy informed them, that it was called Ewharre no Eatua, the houſe of the God, but he could give no account of its meaning or utility: with ſome difficulty they negotiated for eleven pigs, and were not without hopes of obtaining more the next morning.

Wedneſday the 19th, they carried ſome hatchets with them, with which they procured three very large hogs. As they propoſed to ſail in the afternoon, the King, accompanied by ſome others of the natives, came on board to take his leave, when his Majeſty received from Captain Cook a ſmall pewter plate, with the following inſcription. ‘"His Britannic Ma⯑jeſty's ſhip Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook Com⯑mander, 16 July, 1769."’ He alſo was pre⯑ſented with ſome medals, or counters, reſem⯑bling the coin of England, and a few other trifles.

This iſland is ſituated in the latitude of 16 degrees 43 minutes ſouth, and longitude 150 degrees 52 minutes weſt; it is diſtant from Ota⯑heite about thirty leagues, and is about twenty miles in circumference.

[293]The productions of Huaheine, ſeem to be a month forwarder than thoſe of Otaheite, as they found by ſeveral of the fruits, &c. Mr. Banks met with only a few new plants, but found a ſpe⯑cies of ſcorpion which he had not ſeen before.

The people are of a very lazy diſpoſition, though they are ſtouter and larger made than thoſe of Otaheite.

The women are much fairer than thoſe of that iſland, and in general exceedingly hand⯑ſome: both men and women ſeemed leſs ſuſ⯑ceptible of fear, and not ſo deſirous of in⯑formation.

From Huaheine they ſailed for the iſland of Ulietea, and in the afternoon came within a league or two of the ſhore. The next morn⯑ing, being the 20th, by the direction of Tu⯑pia, they anchored in a bay, which is formed by a reef, on the north ſide of the iſland; two canoes of natives ſoon came off from the ſhore, and brought with them two ſmall hogs, which they exchanged for ſome nails and beads. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and ſome other gentle⯑men, now went on ſhore, accompanied by Tu⯑pia, who introduced them with the ſame kind of ceremonies that had taken place on their landing at Huaheine; after which, Capt. Cook took poſſeſſion of this and the adjacent iſlands in the name of the King of Great Britain.

They then walked to a large Morai, which the natives called Tapodeboatea; they found that [294] it differed conſiderably from the Morais of Ota⯑heite, being compoſed of four walls, about eight or nine feet in height, built of very large coral-ſtones, which ſurrounded an area about thirty yards ſquare: at a ſmall diſtance they diſ⯑covered an Ewhatta, or altar, upon which, as an oblation, was placed a whole hog, about a hundred pounds weight. At the front of this Morai, facing the ſea, there was a kind of am⯑phitheatre. There were likewiſe three or four Ewharee no Eatua, or houſes of God, of the ſame kind as that which they ſaw at Huaheine.

On Friday the 21ſt, the Maſter was ſent in the long-boat to inſpect the coaſt on the ſouth part of the iſland, and a Lieutenant was diſ⯑patched in the yawl, to ſound the harbour where the Endeavour lay, while the Captain went in the pinnace to take a view of the coaſt on the north part of the iſland; in their return they ſaw a tree, of the ſame kind as that ſeen by Mr. Green at Otaheite, the circumference of the trunk, or rather congeries of the roots of which meaſured about forty yards.

On the 22d and 23d it being hazy weather with briſk gales, Captain Cook judged it ra⯑ther unſafe to put to ſea. On they 24th they got under ſail, and ſteered to the northward within the reef, towards an opening five or ſix leagues diſtant; in effecting this, he was in the greateſt danger of ſtriking on a rock; the man who ſounded, crying out on a ſudden, two fa⯑thom, [295] at which they were much alarmed, but happily got clear without receiving any damage.

The bay in which the Endeavour lay at an⯑chor is called Oopoa; it is large enough to con⯑tain a great number of ſhipping, and is ſecured from the ſea by a reef of rocks. It lies off the eaſtermoſt point of the iſland, and may be diſ⯑tinguiſhed by a low woody iſland which lies to the ſouth-eaſt of it.

The proviſions of this iſland conſiſt chiefly of cocoa-nuts, yams, plantains, and a few hogs and fowls: that part of the country where they landed is not ſo fruitful as either Otaheite or Huaheine.

On the 25th they were within a league or two of the iſland of Otaha, but the wind continuing contrary, they could not get near enough to land till the 28th in the morning, when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went in the long-boat, with the Maſter, to ſound a harbour on the eaſt ſide of the iſland, which they found ſafe and convenient, with good anchorage. They then went on ſhore, and purchaſed ſome hogs and fowls, and a large quantity of yams and plantains.

This iſland appeared to be more barren than Ulietea, but the produce was much the ſame. The natives paid them the compliment they uſed towards their own Kings, by uncovering their ſhoulders, and wrapping their cloaths [296] round their bodies; taking care no one ſhould omit doing the ſame.

On the 29th they made ſail to the northward, and at eight o'clock next morning they were cloſe under the high craggy peak of the iſland of Bolabola. The iſland was inacceſſible in this part, and they found it impoſſible to weather the ſouth end of it till late at night. The next morning, Sunday the 30th, they diſcovered an iſland, which Tupia called Maurua, who ſaid it was ſmall, ſurrounded by a reef, and without any commodious harbour, but inhabited, and yielded nearly the ſame produce as the adjacent iſlands. In the middle is a high round hill, which may be ſeen at eleven or twelve leagues diſtance.

In the afternoon, finding themſelves to wind⯑ward of ſome harbours that lay on the weſt ſide of Ulietea, they intended to put into one of them, in order to ſtop a leak which they had ſprung in the powder-room, and to take in ſome additional ballaſt. The wind being right a⯑gainſt them, they plied on and off till the after⯑noon, of the 1ſt of Auguſt, when they came to an anchor in the entrance of the channel which led into one of the harbours.

Wedneſday 2, in the morning, when the tide turned, they came into a proper place for moor⯑ing, in twenty-eight fathom. In the interim many of the natives came off, and brought [297] hogs, fowls, and plantains, which were pur⯑chaſed upon very moderate terms.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on ſhore, and ſpent the day very agreeably; the natives ſhewing them great reſpect. Being conducted to the houſes of the chief people, they were received in an uncommon manner. Upon their entrance into a houſe, they found thoſe who had ran haſtily before them, ſtanding on each ſide of a long matt, ſpread upon the ground, and the family ſitting at the further end of it. In one houſe they obſerved ſome very young girls, dreſſed in the neateſt manner, who kept their places, waiting for the ſtrangers to accoſt them: theſe girls were the moſt beautiful the gentlemen had ever ſeen.

One of them, who was about ſeven or eight years old, was dreſſed in a red gown, and her head was decorated with a great quantity of plaited hair; this ornament is called Tomou, and is held in great eſtimation among them. She was ſitting at the upper end of one of their long mats, on which none of the people pre⯑ſent preſumed to ſet a foot; and her head was reclined on the arm of a decent looking woman, who appeared to be her nurſe; when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander approached her, ſhe ſtretched out her hand to receive ſome beads, which they preſented to her, with an air of ſuch dignity and gracefulneſs, as would have done honour to the firſt princeſs in Europe.

[298]Before their departure they were entertained with a dance, different from any they had ſeen before. The performer put upon his head a large piece of wicker-work, about four feet long, of a cylindrical form, covered with fea⯑thers, and edged round with ſhark's teeth. Having this head-dreſs on, which is called a Whou, he began to dance with a ſlow motion, frequently moving his head, ſo as to deſcribe a circle with the top of his wicker cap, and ſome⯑times throwing it ſo near the faces of the bye-ſtanders, as to make them jump back; this they conſidered as an excellent piece of humour, and it always produced a hearty laugh, when practiced upon any of the Engliſh gentlemen.

On Thurſday the 3d, as Mr. Banks and the Doctor were going along the ſhore to the north⯑ward, with a deſign to purchaſe ſtock, they met with a company of dancers, who retarded the progreſs of their excurſion near two hours, and afforded them much diverſion. The company was compoſed of ſix men and two women dan⯑cers, with three drums. They were informed, that theſe dancers were ſome of the principal people of the iſland, and though they were an itinerant troop, they did not, like the ſtroll⯑ing parties of Otaheite, receive any gratuity from the by-ſtanders. The women wore a con⯑ſiderable quantity of Tamou, or plaited hair, ornamented with the flowers of the cape jeſſa⯑mine, which were ſtuck in with taſte, and made

[299] an elegant head dreſs. The womens necks, breaſts and arms were naked; the other parts of the body were covered with black cloth, which was faſtened cloſe round them; and by the ſide of each breaſt, next the arms, was a ſmall plume of black feathers, worn like a noſe⯑gay.

Thus apparalleled they advanced ſideways, keeping time with great exactneſs to the drums, which beat quick and loud; ſoon after, they began to ſhake themſelves in a very whimſical manner, and put their bodies into a variety of ſtrange poſtures, ſometimes ſtanding in a row one behind another, ſometimes ſitting down, and at others falling with their faces to the ground, and reſting on their knees and elbows, moving their fingers at the ſame time with a quickneſs ſcarcely to be credited. The chief dexterity, however, of the dancers, as well as the amuſement of the ſpectators, conſiſted in the laſciviouſneſs of their attitudes and geſtures, which decency forbids us to deſcribe.

Between the dances of the women, a kind of dramatic interlude was performed by the men, conſiſting of dialogue as well as dancing; but for want of a ſufficient knowledge of their language, they could not learn the ſubject of this interlude.

Friday the 4th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and ſome other gentlemen, were preſent at a more regular dramatic entertainment. The [300] performers, who were all men, were divided into two parties, one dreſſed in brown, and the other in white, by way of diſtinction. Tupia being preſent, informed them, that the party in brown acted the parts of a maſter and his ſervants, and the party in white a gang of thieves; the maſter having produced a baſket of meat, which he gave in charge to his ſervants; the white party exhibited a variety of expedients, in en⯑deavouring to ſteal this baſket, and the brown ſet as many in preventing the accompliſh⯑ment of their deſign. After ſome time had been ſpent in this manner, thoſe to whom the baſket was entruſted, laying themſelves down on the ground round it, pretended to fall aſleep; the other party availing themſelves of this op⯑portunity, ſtole gently upon them, and carried off their booty; the ſervants awaking ſoon af⯑ter diſcovered their loſs, but they made no ſearch after the baſket, and began to dance with as much alacrity as before.

On Saturday the 5th, ſome hogs and fowls, and ſeveral large pieces of cloth, many of them being fifty or ſixty yards in length, together with a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were ſent to Captain Cook as a preſent, from the Earee rahie of the iſland of Bolabola, ac⯑companied with a meſſage, that he was then on the iſland, and intended waiting on the Captain the next day.

[301]On Sunday the 6th, the King of Bolabola did not viſit them agreeable to his promiſe, his abſence, however, was not in the leaſt regret⯑ted, as he ſent three very agreeable young wo⯑men to demand ſomething in return for his pre⯑ſent. After dinner, they ſet out to pay the King a viſit on ſhore, as he did not think pro⯑per to come on board. As this man was the Earee rahie of the Bolabola men, who had conquered this, and were the dread of all the neighbouring iſlands, they were greatly diſap⯑pointed, inſtead of finding a vigorous, enter⯑priſing young Chief, to ſee a poor feeble decre⯑pid old dotard, half blind, and ſinking under the weight of age and infirmities. He received them without either that ſtate or ceremony which they had hitherto met with among the other Chiefs.

On Wedneſday the 9th, having ſtopped their leak, and taken on board their freſh ſtock of proviſions, they ſailed out of the harbour. Tho' they were ſeveral leagues diſtant from the iſland of Bolabola, Tupia earneſtly entreated Captain Cook, that a ſhot might be fired towards it; which, to gratify him, the Captain complied with. This was ſuppoſed to have been intend⯑ed by Tupia as a mark of his reſentment againſt the inhabitants of that place, as they had for⯑merly taken from him large poſſeſſions which he held in the iſland of Ulietea, of which iſland [302] Tupia was a native, and a ſubordinate Chief, but was driven out by theſe people.

They had great plenty of proviſions, as well of hogs and fowls, as of vegetables, during the time they continued in the neighbourhood of thoſe iſlands, ſo that they were not obliged to uſe any conſiderable quantity of the ſhip's proviſi⯑ons, and they had flattered themſelves, that the fowls and hogs would have ſupplied them with freſh proviſions during the courſe of their voy⯑age to the ſouthward; but in this they were un⯑happily diſappointed, for as the hogs could not be brought to eat any ſort of European grain, or any provender whatever that the ſhip afforded, they were reduced to the diſagreeable neceſſity of killing them immediately on their leaving thoſe iſlands; and the fowls all died of a diſ⯑eaſe in their head, with which they were ſeized ſoon after they had been carried on board.

As they were detained longer at Ulietea in re⯑pairing the ſhip than they expected, they did not go on ſhore at Bolabola; but, after giving the general name of the Society Iſlands to the iſlands of Huhaheine, Ulietea, Bolabola, Ota⯑ha and Maurua, which lie between the la⯑litude of 16 deg. 10 min. and 16 deg. 55 min. ſouth, they purſued their courſe, ſtanding ſouth⯑wardly for an iſland, to which they were di⯑rected by Tupia, at above an hundred leagues diſtant, which they diſcovered on Sunday the 13th, and were informed by him, that it was [303] called Ohiteroa. The next morning they ſtood in for land, and ſaw ſeveral of the inhabitants along the ſhore; one of the Lieutenants was now diſpatched in the pinnace, to ſound for anchorage, and obtain what intelligence he could of the natives, reſpecting any land that might lay further to the ſouth. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia went alſo in the boat, with the Lieutenant, when they came near the ſhore, they could perceive that the inhabitants were armed with lances of a conſiderable length. The appearance of the boat ſoon drew together a great number of them upon the beech, two of whom leaped into the water, and endea⯑voured to gain the boat, but ſhe ſoon left them behind; ſeveral others made the ſame attempt, but with as little ſucceſs.

The boat having doubled the point where they intended to land, opened a large bay, and diſcovered another party of the natives ſtand⯑ing at the end of it, armed in the ſame manner as thoſe they had already ſeen. The boat's crew now rowed towards the ſhore, and began to make preparations for landing, upon which a canoe, with ſome of the natives on board, came off towards them; they ordered Tupia to acquaint theſe people, that they did not in⯑tend doing them any injury, but wanted to traffick with them with nails, which they ſhewed them; this information encouraged them to come along-ſide the boat, and they accepted [304] of ſome nails, which were given them with much apparent pleaſure and ſatisfaction; it ſoon appeared, however, to be nothing more than diſſimulation; for, in a few minutes, ſeveral of them unexpectedly boarded the boat, with an intention of dragging her on ſhore; ſome muſ⯑quets were immediately diſcharged over their heads, which had the deſired effect, all of them leaping directly into the ſea; and as ſoon as they reached the canoe, they put back to the ſhore as faſt as they could paddle, where a vaſt concourſe of their countrymen were aſſembled to receive them. They were followed to the ſhore by the people in the boat, who found the ſurf ſo violent, that they did not think it ſafe to attempt landing. They therefore coaſted along the ſhore, in hopes of finding a place where they might land with leſs danger; pre⯑ſently after the canoe got on ſhore, a man with a lance in his hand ran along oppoſite to the boat, flouriſhing his weapon, and calling out with a ſhrill voice, which, upon enquiry of Tupia, they were informed was a mark of defiance.

Not being able to find a more convenient landing place, they returned, with a deſign of attempting it at the place where the canoe went on ſhore: as they were going back, the ſame mode of defiance was repeated by another war⯑rior of a more formidable appearance than the firſt; having a high cap on, made of the tail [305] feathers of a bird, and his body painted with ſtreaks of a variety of colours. When this man retired, another advanced in years, with a grave and ſedate countenance, made his appear⯑ance upon the beach, and aſked them ſeveral queſtions, ſuch as from whence they came, whither they were bound, and who they were. Tupia having anſwered theſe queſtions, and re⯑peated his aſſurances, that our intentions were amicable, they appeared to be ſomewhat paci⯑fied. The people in the boat now propoſed going on ſhore, to trade with them for ſuch ar⯑ticles as they choſe to diſpoſe of, if they would quit their weapons; but they would not agree to this propoſal on any other terms, than the Engliſh leaving their muſquets behind them in the boat; with this, however, prudence would not permit them to comply, eſpecially as they had ſo lately experienced the diſſembling nature of theſe people. They therefore gave over all hopes of eſtabliſhing a friendly intercourſe with them, and returned to the ſhip. And as nei⯑ther the bay which the boat entered, nor any other part of the iſland afforded either harbour or anchorage, the Captain did not think it worth while to attempt a ſecond landing.

The people of this iſland are very tall, well proportioned, and have long hair, which, like the inhabitants of the other iſlands, they tie in a bunch on the top of their head; they are [306] likewiſe tataowed on different parts of their bo⯑dies, but not on their poſteriors.

This iſland does not ſhoot up into high peaks, like the others which they viſited, but is more level and uniform, and divided into ſmall hil⯑locks, ſome of which are covered with groves of trees; they ſaw no bread-fruit, and not many cocoa-nut trees, but great numbers of the tree called Etoa, were planted all along the ſhore.

Their cloth, as well as the manner of wear⯑ing it, differed in many reſpects from any they had met with; all that they ſaw was died yel⯑low, and painted on the outſide with a variety of colours. Their habit conſiſted only of one piece with a hole made in the middle of it, thro' which they put their head; it reaches as low as their knees, and is tied cloſe round their bodies with a kind of yellow ſaſh; ſome of them wear caps of the ſame kind as that already mention⯑ed, and others bind their heads with a piece of cloth reſembling a turban.

On Tueſday, the 15th of Auguſt, they ſail⯑ed from this iſland to the ſouthward, with a fine breeze from the north, and clear pleaſant wea⯑ther; and on the 16th it being rather hazy, they were deceived by an appearance like ſeve⯑ral high peaks of land, for which they bore away, but the weather clearing up, convinced them of their miſtake, and they reſumed their courſe to the ſouth.

[307]On Friday the 25th, they celebrated the anniverſary of their leaving England, from whence they had now been abſent one year: a large Cheſhire cheeſe, which had been carefully preſerved for that purpoſe, was brought out, and a barrel of porter tapped, which proved to be as good as any they had ever drank in Eng⯑land. On the 29th John Raden, the Boat⯑ſwain's mate, died; this man's death was occa⯑ſioned by drinking too freely of ſome rum which was given him by the Boatſwain. On the 30th, about four o'clock in the morning, they ſaw a large comet about 60 degrees above the horizon.

On Thurſday the 7th of October, they diſ⯑covered land at weſt by north, and in the af⯑ternoon, of the next day, they came to an an⯑chor oppoſite the mouth of a little river about a mile and a half from the ſhore. The Cap⯑tain, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and ſome other gentlemen, accompanied by a party of marines, went on ſhore in the evening, in the pinnace and yawl.

Having left the pinnace at the entrance of the river, Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, &c. proceed⯑ed a little farther up, when they landed, and leaving the yawl to the care of ſome of their boys, went up to a few ſmall houſes which they ſaw at a little diſtance. Taking the advantage of their abſence from the boat, ſome of the na⯑tives, who had concealed themſelves behind the buſhes, ſuddenly ruſhed out, and ran towards [308] it, brandiſhing the long wooden lances which they had in their hands in a threatening man⯑ner. The boys perceiving them, inſtantly dropt down the ſtream, but were very cloſely purſued by the Indians; the Cockſwain of the pinnace therefore fired a muſquetoon over their heads, which did not ſeem to intimidate them, as they ſtill continued their purſuit; he then fired a ſecond time over their heads, but with no bet⯑ter effect; alarmed at the ſituation of the boat, as they were now got near enough to diſcharge their lances at it, the Cockſwain levelled his piece at them, and ſhot one man dead on the ſpot. Struck with aſtoniſhment at the fall of their companion, the others ſtood motionleſs for ſome time, but as ſoon as they recovered from their fright, retreated to the woods with the utmoſt precipitation. The report of the gun ſoon brought the advanced party back to the boats, and both the pinnace and yawl im⯑mediately returned to the ſhip.

On Monday the 9th in the morning, a great number of the natives were ſeen near the place where the gentlemen in the yawl had landed the preceding evening, and the greateſt part of them appeared to be unarmed. The long-boat, pin⯑nace and yawl, being ordered out, and manned with marines and ſailors, Captain Cook, toge⯑ther with Mr. Banks, the reſt of the gentlemen and Tupia went on ſhore, and landed on the oppoſite ſide of the river, over-againſt ſeveral [309] Indians who were ſitting on the ground; as ſoon as the gentlemen began to land, they immedi⯑ately ſtarted up, each producing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made of ſtone, with a ſtring through the handle of it, which they twiſted round their wriſt. Tupia was or⯑dered to ſpeak to them in his language; and the gentlemen were agreeably ſurprized to find that he was well underſtood, the natives ſpeak⯑ing the Otaheitean language, only in a different dialect. Their intentions at firſt appeared to be very hoſtile, brandiſhing their weapons in the uſual threatening manner; upon which a muſ⯑quet was fired at ſome diſtance from them, at the effect of which the ball happening to ſtrike the water, they appeared rather terrified, and deſiſted from their menaces. The marines be⯑ing drawn up, the Captain, with four or five of the gentlemen and Tupia, advanced nearer to the ſide of the river; Tupia again ſpoke to them, and informed th [...]m, that they wanted to traffick with them for proviſions. They readily conſented to trade, and requeſted the Engliſh gentlemen to croſs the river and come over to them; which was agreed to, upon condition that the natives would quit their weapons; but this the moſt ſolemn aſſurances of friendſhip could not prevail on them to comply with. Not thinking it prudent therefore to croſs the river, as they would not be perſuaded to lay by their arms, the gentlemen in their turn in⯑treated [310] the Indians to come over to them, which after ſome time they prevailed on one of them to do; he was preſently followed by ſeveral others, bringing their weapons with them. They did not appear to ſet any great value on the beads, iron, &c. which was pre⯑ſented to them, nor would they give any thing in return, but propoſed to exchange their wea⯑pons for thoſe belonging to the Engliſh, which being conſequently objected to, they endea⯑voured ſeveral times to ſnatch them out of their hands. But as the gentlemen were on their guard, from the information given them by Tupia that they were ſtill their enemies, their attempts to ſeize the arms were repeatedly fruſ⯑trated, and Tupia, by the direction of the gen⯑tlemen, gave them notice, that any further offer of violence would be puniſhed with inſtant death. One of them had, nevertheleſs, the audacity to ſnatch Mr. Green's hanger, and re⯑tiring a few paces, flouriſhed it over his head; he, however, paid for this temerity with his life, Mr. Monkhouſe firing at him with a muſ⯑quet loaded with ball; and that gentleman af⯑terwards, with ſome difficulty, recovered the hanger, one of the Indians endeavouring to ſeize it.

This behaviour of the natives, added to the want of freſh water, induced Captain Cook to continue his courſe round the head of the bay. He was ſtill in hopes of getting ſome of [311] the Indians on board, and by preſents, added to civil uſage, convey through them a favoura⯑ble idea of the Engliſh to their fellow coun⯑trymen; and thereby ſettle a good correſpon⯑dence with them. Soon after an event occured, though attended with diſagreeable circumſtan⯑ces, that promiſed to facilitate this deſign. Two canoes appeared making towards land, and Captain Cook propoſed intercepting them with his boats. One of them got clear off, but the Indians in the other finding it impoſ⯑ſible to eſcape the boats, began to attack them with their paddles: this compelled the Endea⯑vour's people to fire upon them, when four of the Indians were killed, and the other three, who were youths, jumped into the water, and endeavoured to ſwim to ſhore: they were how⯑ever taken up and brought on board. They were at firſt greatly terrified, thinking they ſhould be killed; but Tupia, by repeated aſ⯑ſurances of friendſhip, removed their fears, and they afterwards eat very heartily of the ſhip's proviſions. When they retired to reſt, in the evening, they appeared perfectly eaſy in their minds, and ſlept very quietly for ſome hours, but in the middle of the night their fears again returned, and they appeared in great agitation, frequently making loud and diſmal groans. After ſome time, however, the friendly promiſes and kind careſſes of Tupia again prevailed over their fears, and they became ſo calm and reſigned [312] as to ſing a ſong, the tune of which was ſolemn and ſlow, and, at the dead of night, when an univerſal ſilence prevailed throughout the ſhip, had an awful and pleaſing effect. The next morning, after they were dreſſed and orna⯑mented, according to the mode of their coun⯑try, with necklaces and bracelets, Captain Cook propoſed ſetting them on ſhore, that they might give a favourable report to their countrymen of the reception they had met with. They teſtified much ſatisfaction when told they were going to be releaſed: but ſeemed under great apprehenſions of danger, at finding the boat approach Captain Cook's firſt landing-place, intimating, that the inhabitants here were their foes, and that they always killed and ate their enemies. The Captain, nevertheleſs, judged it expedient to land near the ſame ſpot, which he accordingly did with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and Tupia, reſolving at the ſame time to protect the youths from any injury that might be offered them. The gentlemen had not been long on ſhore before the boys left them, but on ſeeing two large parties of the Indians advanc⯑ing haſtily towards them, they returned, and again put themſelves under their protection. As the Indians drew nearer, one of the boys diſco⯑vered his uncle amongſt them, and a converſation took place between them acroſs the river, in which the lad gave a very juſt account of the hoſ⯑pitality he had met with, and took great pains [313] to diſplay their cloaths and finery. Soon after the uncle ſwam acroſs the river, bringing with him a green bow, as a token of friendſhip, which was received as ſuch, and ſeveral preſents were made him. The body of the Indian, who was ſhot the day before, lay in the ſame place where he fell: one of the boys had covered it with part of his cloaths; and after the gentlemen had re⯑tired, the Indian performed a kind of ceremony over it, by throwing a green branch towards it, and the body was afterwards carried in a raft acroſs the river. Notwithſtanding the preſence of the uncle of one of the boys, all three of them, by their own deſire, returned to the ſhip, but as the Captain intended ſailing the next morning, he ſent them on ſhore again in the evening, though much againſt their inclination; the names of theſe boys were Taahourange, Koikerange and Maragovete. They informed Captain Cook, that there was a particular kind of deer upon the iſland, likewiſe taro, eapes, romara, yams, a kind of long pepper, bald coote, and black birds.

On the 11th Captain Cook ſet ſail, in hopes of finding a better anchoring-place, after giv⯑ing this bay (called by the natives Toaneora) the name of Poverty Bay; and the ſouth-weſt point he called Young Nick's Head, on account of its being firſt perceived by a lad on board named Nicholas Young. They were becalmed in the afternoon, and ſeveral cances came off [314] from the ſhore with Indians, who received ma⯑ny preſents, and afterwards bartered even their cloaths, and ſome of their paddles, ſo eager were they of being poſſeſſed of as many Euro⯑pean commodities as poſſible. A ſingle tree formed the bottom of their canoes, and the up⯑per part conſiſted of two planks ſewed together: they ſat on thwarts; their paddles were painted red, repreſenting many uncommon figures, and were curiouſly wrought.

They were armed with bludgeons made of wood, and of the bone of a large animal; they called them Patoo, Patoo, and they were well contrived for cloſe fighting.

After they had finiſhed their traffic, they ſet off in ſuch a hurry, that they forgot three of their companions, who remained on board all night.

They teſtified their fears and apprehenſions, notwithſtanding Tupia took great pains to con⯑vince them they were in no danger; and about ſeven the next morning a canoe came off, with four Indians on board. It was at firſt with difficulty the Indians in the ſhip could prevail on thoſe in the canoe to come near them; and it was not till after the former had aſſured them that the Engliſh did not eat men, that they came along-ſide the Endeavour. The Chief came on board, whoſe face was tataowed, with a remarkable patoo patoo in his hand; and in this canoe the three Indians left the ſhip. [315] Captain Cook gave the name of Cape Table to a point of land about ſeven leagues to the ſouth of Poverty Bay, its figure greatly reſembling a table; and the iſland, called by the natives Teabowry, he named Portland Iſland, it being very ſimilar to that of the ſame name in the Britiſh Channel. It is joined to the main by a chain of rocks, near a mile in length, partly above water. There are ſeveral ſhoals, called ſhambles, about three miles to the north-eaſt of Portland, one of which the Endeavour narrowly eſcaped; there is, however, a paſſage between them with 20 fathom water. Some parts of Portland Iſland, as well as the Main, were cultivated; and pumice-ſtone in great quantities lying along the ſhore, within the bay, indicated that there is a volcano in the iſland. High pailings upon the ridges of hills were alſo viſible in two places, which were judged to be deſigned for religious purpoſes.

On the 12th ſeveral Indians came off in a canoe; they were disfigured in a ſtrange man⯑ner, danced and ſung, and appeared at times to be peaceably inclined, and at others to me⯑nace hoſtilities; but, notwithſtanding Tupia ſtrongly invited them to come on board, none of them would quit the canoe. Whilſt the En⯑deavour was getting clear of the ſhambles, five canoes full of Indians came off, and ſeemed to threaten the people on board, by brandiſhing their lances, and other hoſtile geſtures; a [316] four pounder, loaded with grape ſhot, was there⯑fore ordered to be fired, but not pointed at them. This had the deſired effect, and made them drop a-ſtern. Two more canoes came off, whilſt the Endeavour lay at anchor; but the Indians on board behaved very peaceably and quiet, and received ſeveral preſents, but would not come on board.

On Friday the 13th, in the morning, they made for an inlet, but finding it not ſheltered they ſtood out again, and were chaced by a canoe, filled with Indians, but the Endeavour out-ſailed them. She purſued her courſe round the bay, but did not find an opening.

The next morning they had a view of the inland country; it was mountainous, and co⯑vered with ſnow in the interior parts, but the land towards the ſea was flat and uncultivated, and in may places there were groves of high trees. Nine canoes full of Indians came from the ſhore, and five of them, after having con⯑ſulted together, purſued the Endeavour, ap⯑parently with an hoſtile deſign. Tupia was deſired to acquaint them that immediate deſ⯑truction would enſue, if they perſevered in their attempts; but words had no influence, and a four pounder, with grape ſhot, was fired, to give them ſome notion of the arms of their opponents. They were terrified at this kind of reaſoning, and paddled away faſter than they came. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and [317] acquainted them, that if they came in a peace⯑able manner, and left their arms behind, no annoyance would be offered them: one of the canoes ſubmitting to theſe terms, came along ſide the ſhip, and received many preſents; but the other canoes returning, and perſiſting in the ſame menacing behaviour, interrupted this friendly intercourſe.

The following day, Sunday the 15th, they were viſited by ſome fiſhing boats, the people in which conducted themſelves in an amicable manner; though the fiſh which they had on board had been caught ſo long that they were not eatable, Captain Cook purchaſed them, merely for the ſake of promoting a traffick with the natives. In the afternoon a large canoe, with a number of armed Indians, came up, and one of them who was remarkably cloath⯑ed, with a black ſkin, found means to de⯑fraud the Captain of a piece of red baize, under pretence of bartering the ſkin he had on for it. As ſoon as he had got the baize into his poſſeſſion, inſtead of giving the ſkin in return agreeable to his bargain, he rolied them up together, and ordered the canoe to put off from the ſhip, turning a deaf ear to the repeat⯑ed remonſtrances of the Captain againſt his un⯑juſt behaviour. After a ſhort time this canoe, together with the fiſhing boats which had put off at the ſame time, came back to the ſhip, and trade was again begun. During this ſecond [318] traffick with the Indians, one of them unex⯑pectedly ſeized Tupia's little boy Tayota, and pulling him into his canoe inſtantly put her off, and paddled away with the utmoſt ſpeed; ſeve⯑ral muſquets were immediately diſcharged at the people in the canoe, and one of them re⯑ceiving a wound they all let go the boy, who before was held down in the bottom of the canoe. Tayota taking the advantage of their conſternation, immediately jumped into the ſea, and ſwam back towards the Endeavour, he was taken on board, without having received any harm; but his ſtrength was ſo much exhauſted with the weight of his cloaths, that it was with great difficulty he reached the ſhip. In conſe⯑quence of this attempt to carry off Tayota, Captain Cook called the Cape off which it hap⯑pened Cape Kidnappers, lying in latitude 39 deg. 43 min. and longitude 182 deg. 24 min. weſt, and is very diſtinguiſhable by high cliffs and white rocks, that ſurround it. Its diſtance from Portland Iſland is about 13 leagues, form⯑ing the ſouth point of a bay, which the Cap⯑tain named Hawke's Bay, in honour of Sir Ed⯑ward, who then preſided at the admiralty board.

As every circumſtance that tends to eluci⯑date the manners and cuſtoms of theſe people muſt attract the attention of the curious reader, we cannot omit Tayota's behaviour upon re⯑covering from his fright, occaſioned by his being kidnapped. He produced a fiſh, and acquaint⯑ed [319] Tupia, that he deſigned to make an offer⯑ing of it to his God, or Eatua, as a teſtimonial of his gratitude for his deliverance. Tupia approved of his intention, and by his direction the fiſh was caſt into the ſea. This is an evi⯑dent proof, that even theſe unenlightened ſa⯑vages, by the mere impulſe of nature, believe in the exiſtence of a particular providence.

The Endeavour now paſſed a ſmall iſland, white and high, ſuppoſed to be inhabited only by fiſhermen, as it appeared quite barren, and was named Bare Iſland. On the 17th Captain Cook gave the name of Cape Turn Again to a head-land, in latitude 40 deg. 34 min. S. longi⯑tude, 182 deg. 55 min. weſt, becauſe the En⯑deavour here turned again. Before the Endea⯑vour touched at New Zealand, it was not cer⯑tainly known whether it was an iſland, or part of the continent, wherefore the lords of the ad⯑miralty had, by their inſtructions, directed Captain Cook to ſail along the coaſts as far as 40 degrees ſouth latitude, and from thence, if the land appeared to extend farther, to return again to the northward. Agreeable to theſe in⯑ſtructions, the Captain being oppoſite to Cape Turn Again, changed his courſe from ſouth to north; and the wind having likewiſe veered to the ſouth, he returned nearly in his former track, ſailing along the coaſt. This Cape is remark⯑able for a ſtratum of clay of a bright brown co⯑lour; its prominence gradually diminiſhes to⯑wards [320] the north-ſide, but to the ſouth its deſ⯑cent is not ſo regular.

The land betwen this Cape and Kidnapper's Bay is unequal, and reſembles the high downs of England. There appeared numerous inha⯑bitants, and ſeveral villages. Wedneſday the 18th the Endeavour came a-breaſt of a penin⯑ſula in Portland Iſland, named Terakako, when a canoe, with five Indians, came up to the ſhip. Two Chiefs who were in this canoe came on board, where they remained all night, and were treated with great civility. One of the Chiefs was a remarkable comely man, and his countenance was open and prepoſſeſſing. Their curioſity was uncommon, and their acknow⯑ledgments, for the trifling preſents they receiv⯑ed, were extremely grateful. The Chiefs would neither eat nor drink, but the ſervants made up for their maſters abſtinence, by their vora⯑cious appetites. The three boys had given theſe natives an account of the hoſpitality and libera⯑lity of the Engliſh, which had prevailed upon them to pay this viſit.

Thurſday the 19th the Endeavour paſſed a remarkable head land, which Captain Cook named Gable End Foreland. It is diſtinguiſhed by a rock, in the ſhape of a church ſpire, which is very near it. Here three canoes came up, and one Indian came on board; he received ſome ſmall preſents, and retired to his companions. [321] He wore a new garment of white ſilky flax, with a border of black, red and white.

Many of the Indians had pieces of green⯑ſtone round their necks, by way of necklaces; they were tranſparent, like an emerald, and appeared, on examination, to be a ſpecies of Nephritic-ſtone, of which all their ornaments of this kind conſiſted. Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen obtained ſeveral pieces of it.

The dialect of theſe Indians was not ſo gut⯑tural as that of the others, and they ſpoke the moſt like the inhabitants of Otaheite. The phyſiognomy of ſome was agreeable, their noſes being rather prominent than flat.

On the 20th they anchored in a bay, about two leagues to the north of the Foreland. The natives in canoes invited them hither, and be⯑haved very amicably. There appeared to be two Chiefs, who came on board: they received preſents of linen, which gave them much ſatiſ⯑faction; but they did not hold ſpike-nails in ſuch eſtimation as the inhabitants of ſome of the iſlands. They were dreſſed in jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers, the other with dog's ſkin. The other Indians in the ca⯑noes traded with the Endeavour's people, with⯑out attempting any impoſition; and towards the evening the Chiefs returned. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, now went on ſhore, and were courteouſly received by the in⯑habitants, who did not appear in numerous bo⯑dies, [322] to avoid giving offence. They received ſeveral trifling preſents, and the Captain had the pleaſure to find freſh water, in the courſe of a tour round the bay. They remained on ſhore all night, and next day Mr. Banks and the Doctor diſcovered ſeveral plants, and many beautiful birds, particularly quails and large pigeons. There were ſome houſes with fences, to ſhelter them from the wind, and many ſtages for drying fiſh near the place where the gentle⯑men landed. Dogs with ſmall pointed ears, and very ugly, were the only tame animals a⯑mong them. At the watering-place the Cap⯑tain ordered a line to be drawn, and enjoined the natives not to paſs it, which injunction they ci⯑villy complied with. Many houſes were con⯑tiguous, and the lands in the adjacent vallies were regular flats, neatly laid out in ſmall plan⯑tations, the ground appearing to be broken, as if deſigned for gardens. They have ſweet po⯑tatoes, like thoſe of North America, in great quantities; and the cloth plant grows here ſpon⯑taneouſly. There is plenty of fiſh in the bay, ſuch as crabs, cray-fiſh, and ſhip-jacks or horſe mackrel, which are larger than thoſe upon our coaſts. The number of ſupple jacks that grow in the adjacent woods, render them almoſt im⯑paſſable; but they thereby afford ſhelter to their feathered inhabitants: the flat land was planted with cocos, and the hollow parts with gourds. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander viſited ſeveral of [323] the natives houſes, and they met with a very civil reception. Fiſh conſtituted their principal food at this time, and the root of a ſort of fern ſerved them for bread, which when roaſted up⯑on a fire, and diveſted of its bark, was ſweet and clammy; in taſte not diſagreeable, but un⯑pleaſant from its number of fibres. Vegetables were, doubtleſs, at other ſeaſons very plentiful. The women paint their faces red, which ſo far from increaſing, diminiſhes the very little beau⯑ty they have. The mens faces were not in ge⯑neral painted, but ſome were rubbed over with red ocre from head to foot, their apparel not excepted. Though they could not be compared to the inhabitants of Otaheite for cleanlineſs in general, they ſurpaſſed them in this reſpect in ſome particulars. Every dwelling was ſupplied with a privy, and they had dunghills for depo⯑ſiting dirt and filth. The women wore a girdle made of the blade of graſs under a petticoat, and to this girdle was tied in front a bunch of fra⯑grant leaves. They ſeemed to hold chaſtity in but little eſtimation, many of the young fe⯑males reſorting to the watering-place, where they bountifully beſtowed every favour that was requeſted. One of the officers on ſhore, meet⯑ing with an elderly woman, he accompanied her to her houſe, and having preſented her with ſome cloth and beads, a young girl was ſingled out, and he was given to underſtand he might retire with her. Soon after an elderly man, [324] with two women, came in as viſitors, and with much formality ſaluted all the company, accord⯑ing to the cuſtom of the place, which is by gently joining the tips of their noſes together. The officer upon his return was furniſhed with a guide, who led him a much better road than that he had come, and whenever they came to a brook or rivulet, the Indian took him upon his back to preſerve him from being wet; ſe⯑veral of the inhabitants were curiouſly tataowed, and one old man, in particular, was marked on the breaſt with various figures. There was an axe made of the green ſtone, already mention⯑ed, which could not be purchaſed, though ma⯑ny things were offered in exchange. At night they danced in a very uncouth manner, making antick geſtures, lolling out their tongues, with other ſtrange grimaces; and in theſe dances old men with grey beards were, as well as the young ones, capital performers. They carried their civility ſo far, as to aſſiſt Mr. Banks and his company with one of their canoes to carry them on board; but the Endeavour's people being unacquainted with the method of ſteer⯑ing ſuch a veſſel, ſhe was overſet, but no one was drowned; and they reached the ſhip without any farther accident, ſome of the Indians having voluntarily engaged to conduct her. During the ſtay of the gentlemen on ſhore, many of the natives went off in their canoes, and trafficked with the ſhip's company, [325] preferring at firſt the cloth of Otaheite to that of Europe; but it ſoon diminiſhed in its value. Several of the Indians went on board, and teſ⯑tified their curioſity and ſurpriſe, with regard to the different parts of the ſhip.

Sunday 22, in the evening, they ſailed from this bay, which by the natives is called Tega⯑doo, and lies in latitude 38 deg. 10 min. ſouth. The wind being contrary, they put into ano⯑ther bay a little to the ſouth, called by the na⯑tives Tolaga, in order to complete their wood and water, and extend their correſpondence with the natives; in this bay they came to an anchor in about eleven fathom water, with a good ſandy bottom. Several canoes appeared, with Indi⯑ans on board, and they trafficked very fairly for glaſs bottles and cloth. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the Doctor, went in the afternoon to examine the water, and found it extremely good; here was alſo plenty of wood, and the natives behaved with as much civility as thoſe they had juſt departed from.

On the 24th, Mr. Gore and the marines were ſent on ſhore, to guard the people employed in cutting wood and filling water. Captain Cook, Mr. Banks and the Doctor alſo went on ſhore; the two latter employed themſelves in collecting plants. In their route they found in the vales many houſes uninhabited, the natives reſiding chiefly in ſlight ſheds, on the ridges of the hills, which are very ſteep. In a valley between two [326] very high hills they ſaw a curious rock, that formed a large arch, oppoſite to the ſea; this cavity was in length above ſeventy feet, in breadth thirty, and near fifty in height; it com⯑manded a view of the hills and the bay, which had a very happy effect. Indeed, the whole country about the bay is agreeable beyond de⯑ſcription, and if properly cultivated would be a moſt fertile ſpot. The hills are covered with beautiful flowering ſhrubs, intermixed with a great number of tall and ſtately palms, which perfume the air, and make it moſt agreeably odoriferous. Mr. Banks and the Doctor found the tree that produces the cabbage, which, when boiled, was very good; and ſome other trees that yielded a fine tranſparent gum. Between the hills were fruitful villages, that might have been ſucceſsfully cultivated, or turned into paſ⯑turage. Various kinds of edible herbage, were met with in great abundance, and there was reaſon to believe there were many trees that produced fruit fit to eat, ſome of which the gentlemen examined. The plant, from which the cloth is made, is a kind of Hemerocallis, the leaves of which afford a ſtrong gloſſy flax, equally adapted to cloathing, as making of ropes. There are ſweet potatoes and yam plan⯑tations near their houſes, which are carefully cultivated. Theſe gentlemen, upon their re⯑turn, met an old man, who entertained them with the military exerciſes of the natives,

[327] which are performed with the Patoo Patoo, and the lance. The former has already been men⯑tioned, and is uſed as a battle-axe; the latter is ten or twelve feet in length, made of extreme hard wood, and ſharpened at each end. A ſtake was ſubſtituted for their old warriors ſuppoſed enemy; he firſt attacked him with his lance, when, having pierced him, the Patoo Patoo was uſed to demoliſh his head, and the force with which he ſtruck would at one blow have ſplit any man's ſkull. This mode of fighting in⯑duced the gentlemen to believe no quarter was ever given here in war. The natives in this part are not very numerous; they are tolerably well ſhaped, but lean and tall; their faces re⯑ſemble thoſe of Europeans; their noſes are aqueline; their eyes dark coloured; their hair is black, which is tied up on the top of their heads, and their beards are of a moderate length. Their tataowing is done very curiouſly in va⯑rious figures, which makes their ſkin reſemble carving; it is confined to the principal men, the females and ſervants uſing only red paint, with which they daub their faces, that other⯑wiſe would not be diſagreeable. Their cloth is white, gloſſy and very even; it is worn prin⯑cipally by the men, though it is wrought by the women, who, indeed, are condemned to all the drudgery and labour.

On the 25th an armourer's forge was ſet up on ſhore for neceſſary uſes. Mr. Banks and [328] Dr. Solander went again in ſearch of plants. Tupia, who was with them engaged in a con⯑verſation with one of the prieſts, and they ſeem⯑ed to agree in their opinions upon the ſubject of religion. Tupia, in the courſe of this con⯑ference, enquired, whether the report of their eating men was founded in truth; to which the prieſt replied it was, but that they ate none but declared foes, after they were killed in war. This idea is, however, horrid and barbarous, and proves that they carry their reſentment even beyond death.

Captain Cook and Dr. Solander went on the 27th to inſpect the bay, when the Doctor was not a little ſurpriſed to find the natives in the poſſeſſion of a boy's top, which they knew how to ſpin by whipping it, and he purchaſed it out of curioſity. Mr. Banks was during this time employed in attaining the ſummit of a ſteep hill, that had previouſly engaged their attention; and near it he found many uninhabited houſes. Here were two rows of poles about fourteen or fifteen feet high, covered over with ſticks, which made an avenue of about five feet in width, extending near a hundred yards down the hill in an irregular line: the intent of this erection was not diſcovered. When the gen⯑tlemen met at the watering-place, the Indians, by deſire, ſung their war ſong, which was a ſtrange medley of ſhouting, ſighing and gri⯑mace, at which the women aſſiſted. The next [329] day Captain Cook and the other gentlemen went upon an iſland at the entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was ſixty ſeven feet in length, ſix in breadth, and four in height; her bottom, which was ſharp, conſiſted of three trunks of trees, and the ſides and head were curiouſly carved. There was a large unfiniſhed houſe upon this iſland; the poſts which ſup⯑ported it were ornamented with carvings, that did not appear to be done upon the ſpot; and as the inhabitants ſeem to ſet a great value upon works of this kind, future navigators might find their advantage in carrying ſuch articles to trade with. Though the poſts of this houſe were judged to be brought here, the people have certainly a taſte for carving, as their boats, paddles, and tops of walking-ſticks evince. Their favourite figure is a volute or ſpiral, which is ſometimes ſingle, double and triple, and is done with great exactneſs, though the only inſtruments the gentlemen ſaw were an axe made of ſtone, and a chiſſel. Their taſte, however, muſt be acknowledged whimſical and extravagant, ſcarce ever imitating nature.

Their huts are built under trees; their form is an oblong ſquare: the door is low on the ſide, and the windows are at the ends; reeds, covered with thatch, compoſe the walls; the beams of the eaves, which come to the ground, are covered with thatch; moſt of the houſes the gentlemen ſaw had been deſerted, through fear [330] of the Engliſh upon their landing. There are many beautiful parrots, and great numbers of birds of different kinds, particularly one whoſe note reſembled the European black bird; but here is no ground fowl or poultry; nor were there any quadrupeds, except rats and dogs, and theſe were not numerous. The dogs are conſidered as delicate food, and their ſkins ſerve for ornaments to their apparel. There is a great variety of fiſh in the bay: ſhell and cray-fiſh is very plentiful; ſome of the latter weigh near a dozen pounds.

Sunday, Oct. 29, they ſet ſail from this bay, which is called by the natives Tolaga. It is ſeated in latitude 38 deg. 22 min. ſouth, four leagues to the north of Gable end Foreland: there are two high rocks at the entrance of the bay, which form a cove very convenient for procuring wood and water. There is a high rocky iſland off the north point of the bay, which affords good anchorage, having a fine ſandy bottom, and from ſeven to thirteen fa⯑thom water, and is likewiſe ſheltered from all but the north-eaſt wind.

Captain Cook obtained nothing here in trade but ſome ſweet potatoes, and a little fiſh. This is a very hilly country, though it preſents the eye with an agreeable verdure, various woods, and many ſmall plantations. Mr. Banks met with a great number of trees in the woods, quite unknown to Europeans: the firewood re⯑ſembled [331] the maple tree, and produced a gum of whitiſh colour; other trees yielded a gum of deep yellow green. The only roots they met with were yams and ſweet potatoes, though the ſoil appears very proper for producing every ſpecies of vegetables.

Sailing to the northward, they fell in with a ſmall iſland, about a mile diſtant from the north-eaſt point of the main; and this being the moſt eaſtern part of it, the Captain named it EAST CAPE, and the iſland EAST ISLAND: it was but ſmall, and appeared barren. The cape is in latitude 37 degrees 42 minutes 30 ſeconds ſouth. There are many ſmall bays from Tolaga Bay to Eaſt Cape. When the Endeavour had doubled the cape, many villages preſented themſelves to view, and the adjacent land appeared cultivat⯑ed. In the evening of the 30th, Lieutenant Hicks diſcovered a bay, to which his name was given. Next morning, about nine, ſeveral ca⯑noes came off from ſhore with a number of armed men, who appeared to have hoſtile in⯑tentions. Before theſe had reached the ſhip, another canoe, larger than any that had yet been ſeen, full of armed Indians came off, and made towards the Endeavour with great expedition. The Captain now judging it expedient to pre⯑vent, if poſſible, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads; this not pro⯑ducing the deſired effect, another gun was fired with ball, which threw them into ſuch conſter⯑nation, [332] that they immediately returned much faſter than they came. This precipitate re⯑treat, induced the Captain to give the cape, off which it happened, the name of CAPE RUN⯑AWAY, which lies in latitude 37 degrees 32 mi⯑nutes, longitude 181 degrees 48 minutes. Next morning, at day break, they ſaw between forty and fifty canoes along ſhore, many of which came off in the manner they had done the day before, ſhouting, and menacing an attack. One of their Chiefs in the largeſt of the ca⯑noes made ſeveral harangues, and by the me⯑nacing flouriſh of his pike, ſeemed to bid the ſhip defiance; but the gentlemen continuing to invite them to trade, they at laſt came cloſe a⯑long-ſide, and the Chief who had been declaim⯑ing, after uttering a ſentence, took up a ſtone and threw it againſt the ſide of the ſhip, which appeared to be a declaration of hoſtilities, as they inſtantly ſeized their arms; Tupia told them, that immediate deſtruction would enſue, if they perſevered in their deſign, and at the ſame time aſſured them of the gentlemens paci⯑fic intentions, and that they only wanted to traf⯑fick with them. Neither his threats nor per⯑ſuaſions would probably have had any effect, had he not at the ſame time ſhewn them ſome pieces of cloth, which attracted their eye, and brought them to reaſon. The gentlemen now purchaſed a great quantity of cray-fiſh, muſcles and conger-eels. Theſe Indians did not attempt [333] any fraud in their trading; but ſome others, who ſucceeded them, took the goods from the ſhip without making proper returns: one of them, who had been particularly culpable, and ſeemed to pride himſelf upon his cunning, put⯑ting off with his canoe, was brought back by a muſquet being fired over his head, and this preſently produced good order. But when the ſailors began to traffick with the Indians, they renewed their former fraudulent practices, with great inſolence. One of them ſeized ſome linen that was hanging to dry, and made off with it; a muſquet was fired over his head to make him return, but this did not prevail, and even after another was fired at him with ſmall ſhot, which hit him in the back, he ſtill perſevered in his deſign. Upon this the reſt of the Indians dropt a-ſtern at ſome diſtance, and ſet up their ſong of defiance. They did not, however, make any preparations for attacking the ſhip; but the Captain judged, that if he ſuffered them to go off without convincing them of his power of avenging the inſult, it might give an un⯑favourable opinion of the Engliſh, to the na⯑tives on ſhore. He accordingly fired a four pounder, which paſſed over them, and the ef⯑fect it had in the water terrified them ſo greatly, that they made to ſhore with the utmoſt preci⯑pitancy. In the afternoon they deſcried a high iſland to the weſt, and ſome time after perceiv⯑ed ſome other iſlands and rocks in the ſame [334] quarter; not being able to weather them before night came on, they bore up between them and the main-land. About ſeven in the evening a double canoe, built like thoſe at Otaheite, but carved after their peculiar manner, came up to the ſhip, and Tupia entered into a friendly con⯑verſation with the Indians on board; when, on a ſudden, it being now dark, they pelted the ſhip with ſtones, and then retreated. Tupia was told by the Indians in the canoe, that the iſland cloſe to which the Endeavour lay, was called Mowtohera; it was but a few miles from the main-land, of no great extent, but pretty high. They ſaw a high round mountain, ſouth-weſt by weſt of Mowtohera, which the Captain named MOUNT EDGECOMBE.

The next morning, November 2, many ca⯑noes made their appearance, and one, which proved to be the ſame that gave the ſalute the night before, came up, and Tupia again en⯑gaged in converſation with the people in her. After behaving very peaceably about an hour, the fit of pelting again ſeized them, and they gave the ſhip another volley of ſtones; but a muſquet being fired, they inſtantly took to their paddles.

In the forenoon, of the ſame day, the En⯑deavour ſailed between a low flat iſland and the main: the villages upon the latter were more extenſive than any they had yet ſeen. They were upon the high land next the ſea, and were [335] ſurrounded by a bank with rails on the top of it, and a ditch. There were ſome incloſures that reſembled forts, and the whole had the ap⯑pearance of fortified places. The Endeavour paſſed the night under an iſland about twenty miles from the main, which they named the MAYOR. In the morning of the 3d, they gave the name of THE COURT OF ALDERMEN to a number of ſmall iſlands that lay contiguous, about twelve miles from the main, between which there are ſeveral other ſmall iſlands moſt⯑ly barren, but very high. The aſpect of the main-land was now much changed, the ſoil ap⯑pearing barren, and the country very thinly in⯑habited. The Chief, who governed the diſ⯑trict from Cape Turnagain to this coaſt, was named Teratu.

On Friday the 3d, three canoes came a-long⯑ſide with ſeveral Indians. Theſe canoes were built very different from the others, being form⯑ed of the trunks of ſingle trees, made hollow by burning: they were not carved, or in any ſhape ornamented. Theſe Indians were of a darker complexion than the others, but made uſe of the ſame modes of defiance, and threw ſeveral ſtones and ſome of their lances into the ſhip.

The ſame afternoon the Endeavour ſailed to⯑wards an inlet they had diſcovered, and anchor⯑ed in ſeven fathom water. She was ſoon after ſurrounded by ſeveral canoes, and the Indians [336] at firſt did not ſhew any ſigns that they intend⯑ed committing hoſtilities. One of the Endea⯑vour's people ſhot a bird, which the Indians conveyed on board, without teſtifying any ſur⯑priſe at the event. For their civility, the Cap⯑tain gave them a piece of cloth. But this fa⯑vour had a very oppoſite influence to what was expected, for when it grew dark, they ſung one of their menacing ſongs, and attempted to car⯑ry off the anchor's buoy. Some muſquets were now fired over them, which ſeemed rather to irritate than terrify them, and upon their going off, they threatened to return the next morning in greater numbers; they came back however the ſame night about eleven o'clock, in hopes of ſurpriſing the ſhip's crew; but finding them on their guard, they again retired.

In the morning of the 4th, a great number of canoes, with near two hundred men, armed with ſpears, lances and ſtones, made their ap⯑pearance, ſeemingly reſolved to attack the ſhip, and deſirous of boarding her, but could not determine at what part, changing their ſta⯑tions, and paddling round her. Theſe motions kept the crew upon the watch, in the rain, whilſt Tupia, at the requeſt of the Captain, uſed eve⯑ry diſſuaſive argument he could ſuggeſt to pre⯑vent their carrying their apparent deſigns into execution; but his expoſtulations did not pa⯑cify them till ſome muſquets were fired; they then laid aſide their hoſtile intentions, and be⯑gan [337] to trade: they ſold two of their weapons without fraud, but a third, for which they had received cloth, they would not deliver up, and inſtead of paying any attention to the demand that was made of it, they only laughed at them, and turned their expoſtulations into ridicule. As the Captain propoſed to ſtay ſome days at this place, that he might obſerve the Tranſit of Mercury, he judged it expedient to chaſtiſe theſe people for their inſolence and knavery; accordingly ſome ſmall ſhot were fired upon the principal offender, and a muſquet-ball went through his canoe. His companions left him to his fate, without taking the leaſt notice of him, though he was wounded, and continu⯑ed to trade without any diſcompoſure. They for ſome time traded very fairly, but returning to their male practices, another canoe was fired upon, and ſtruck: they ſoon after paddled away, whilſt a round ſhot was fired over them.

Thus we find, that theft and chicane are as prevalent amongſt the inhabitants of New Zea⯑land, as thoſe of Otaheite; from whence we might conclude, that in all uncivilized nations, probity is not conſidered as a virtue, or theft as a vice. Having no puniſhment for crimes of this kind, it may be urged, that they are not taught to conſider them as ſuch; but if nature has im⯑planted in us juſt ideas of right and wrong, they muſt operate as forcibly upon the inhabi⯑tants under the line, as on thoſe of other climes; [338] and a native of Otaheite muſt be equally con⯑ſcious of a breach of natural juſtice as the moſt poliſhed European. However, as this is eſta⯑bliſhing the doctrine of innate ideas, which would lead us into a large field of controverſy, we ſhall leave the reader to his own opinion upon this ſubject.

In ſearching for a convenient anchoring-place, the Captain ſaw a village upon a high point, near the head of the bay, fortified like thoſe villages already mentioned. Having met with a place to his mind near where the Endeavour lay, he returned to the ſhip, and ſailed to that ſpot, where he caſt anchor.

Several of the Indians came off to the ſhip on the 5th, but behaved much better than they had done the preceding day. They had with them an old man, who had before teſtified his probity and diſcretion; and he appeared to be of ſuperior rank to the reſt. He came on board with another Indian, when the Captain preſent⯑ed them with ſome nails, and two pieces of cloth of Engliſh manufacture. Tojava (which was the name of the old man) informed Mr. Banks, that the natives had been in great terror of the Engliſh; when he was informed, that the Captain and his people had no ill deſign a⯑gainſt the Indians; but, on the contrary, want⯑ed to eſtabliſh a friendly intercourſe, and to traf⯑fick with them. Tojava then acquainted the Captain, that they were often viſited by free⯑booters [339] from the north, who ſtripped them of all they could lay their hands on, and often made captives of their children and wives; and that being ignorant who the Engliſh were upon their firſt arrival, the natives had taken the alarm upon the ſhip's appearing off the coaſt, but were now ſatisfied of their good intent. He added, that to ſecure themſelves from theſe plunderers, their houſes were built contiguous near the tops of rocks, where they are more able to defend themſelves. Probably their po⯑verty and miſery may be aſcribed to the ravages of this banditti, who often ſtrip them of every neceſſary of life. Whilſt they were fiſhing for mullets in the bay, the Indians who were upon the banks teſtified their friendſhip by every poſ⯑ſible means, and gave them an invitation to come on ſhore.

The aſſurances of friendſhip, which they had received from the gentlemen on board, ſeemed to have a proper influence upon the na⯑tives, who were now very tractable and ſub⯑miſſive, and behaved with much civility to the people in the long-boat, which was again diſ⯑patched into the bay to fiſh, but with little ſuc⯑ceſs; the Indians however brought great quan⯑tities of fiſh, dreſſed and dried; and though they were very indifferent, they were purchaſed, that trade might not be diſcouraged. In a word, the natives now treated the Engliſh with great hoſpitality; a large ſupply of wood and [340] good water was obtained, and the ſhip, being very foul, was heeled, and her bottom ſcrubbed in the bay.

November the 8th the ſhip was viſited by ſe⯑veral canoes, in one of which was Tojava, who perceiving two ſtrange canoes paddling from the oppoſite ſhore, ſuddenly turned about, and acquainted the Captain that he was under apprehenſions, the people in them were ſome of the freebooters, but he ſoon found his miſtake, and returned to the ſhip. The Indians ſupplied the ſhip's crew with as much excellent fiſh, re⯑ſembling mackrel, as was ſufficient for all their dinners, for which they gave them ſome pieces of cloth.

A great variety of plants were this day col⯑lected by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; they had never obſerved any of the kind before. Theſe gentlemen remained on ſhore till near dark, when they obſerved the manner of the natives diſpoſing of themſelves during the night. They lay under ſome buſhes; the men neareſt the ſea in a ſemicircular form, and the women and children the moſt diſtant from it; their arms were placed againſt trees very near them, to defend themſelves in caſe of a ſurprize from the freebooters. They had no king, whoſe ſovereignty they acknowledged, which was a circumſtance unparalleled on any other parts of the coaſt.

[341]Early in the morning of the 9th, ſeveral ca⯑noes brought a prodigious quantity of mack⯑rel, one ſort of which was no way different from the mackrel caught on our coaſt. Theſe canoes were ſucceeded by many others, equally well loaded with the ſame ſort of fiſh; and the cargoes purchaſed were ſo great, that when ſalted, they might be conſidered as a month's proviſion for the whole ſhip's company.

This being a very clear day, the aſtronomer (Mr. Green) and the other gentlemen landed to obſerve the Tranſit of Mercury, and whilſt the obſervation was making, a large canoe, with various commodities on board, came along-ſide the ſhip; and Mr. Gore, the officer who had then the command, being deſirous of en⯑couraging them to traffick, produced a piece of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than any they had yet ſeen, which was immediately ſeized by one of the Indians, who obſtinately refuſed either to return it, or give any thing in ex⯑change; he paid dearly however for his teme⯑rity, being ſhot dead on the ſpot.

The death of this young Indian alarmed all the reſt; they fled with great precipitancy, and for the preſent could not be induced to renew their traffick with the Engliſh. But when the Indians on ſhore had heard the particulars re⯑lated by Tojava, who greatly condemned the conduct of the deceaſed, they ſeemed to think [342] that he merited his fate. His name proved to be Otirreeoonooe.

This tranſaction happened, as has been men⯑tioned, whilſt the obſervation was making of the Tranſit of Mercury, when the weather was ſo favourable, that the whole Tranſit was viewed without a cloud intervening. Mr. Green made the obſervation of the ingreſs, whilſt Captain Cook was engaged in aſcertaining the time, by taking the ſun's attitude. The Tran⯑ſit commenced at 7 hours, 20 min. 58 ſec. by Mr. Green's obſervation the internal contact was at 12 hours, 8 min. 57 ſec. the external at 12 hours, 9 min. 54 ſec. the latitude 30 deg. 48 min. 5 ſec. In conſequence of this ob⯑ſervation having been made here, this bay was called Mercury Bay.

On the 10th Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the Captain went in boats to inſpect a large river that runs into the bay. They found it broader ſome miles within than at the mouth, and in⯑terſected into a number of ſtreams, by ſeveral ſmall iſlands, which were covered with trees. On the eaſt ſide of the river the gentlemen ſhot ſome ſhags, which proved very good eating. The ſhore abounded with fiſh of various kinds, ſuch as cockles, clams and oyſters; and here were alſo ducks, ſhags, ſeapies and curlieus, with other wild fowl in great plenty. At the mouth of the river there was good anchorage in five fathom water. The gentlemen were [343] received with great hoſpitality by the inha⯑bitants of a little village, on the eaſt ſide of the river. There are the remains of a fort called Eppah, in a peninſula that projects into the river, and it was well calculated for de⯑fending a ſmall number againſt a greater force. From the remains, it nevertheleſs ſeemed to have been taken and partly deſtroyed.

The Indians ſup before ſun-ſet, when they eat fiſh and birds baked or roaſted; they roaſt them upon a ſtick, ſtuck in the ground near the fire, and bake them in the manner the dog was baked, which the gentlemen ate at King George's Iſland.

A female mourner was preſent at one of their ſuppers; ſhe was ſeated upon the ground, and wept inceſſantly, at the ſame time repeating ſome ſentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not explain; at the termination of each period ſhe cut herſelf with a ſhell upon her breaſt, her hands or her face; notwithſtand⯑ing this ſhocking, bloody ſpectacle greatly affect-the gentlemen preſent, yet all the Indians who ſat by her, except one, were quite unmoved. The gentlemen ſaw ſome, who from the depth of their ſcars muſt, upon theſe occaſions, have wounded themſelves ſtill more violently.

November 11, great plenty of oyſters were procured from a bed which had been diſcover⯑ed, and they proved exceedingly good. Next day the ſhip was viſited by two canoes, with [344] unknown Indians; after ſome invitation they came on board, and they all trafficked without any fraud.

Two fortified villages being deſcried, the Captain, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went to examine them: the ſmalleſt was roman⯑tically ſituated upon a rock, which was arched; this village did not conſiſt of above five or ſix houſes, fenced round. There was but one path, which was very narrow, that conducted to it. The gentlemen were invited by the inhabitants to pay them a viſit, but not having time to ſpare, they took another route, after making preſents to the females. A body of men, wo⯑men and children now approached the gentle⯑men, who proved to be the inhabitants of ano⯑ther town, which they propoſed viſiting. They gave many teſtimonials of their friendly diſpo⯑ſitions, among others they uttered the word Heromai, which, according to Tupia's interpre⯑tation, implied Peace, and appeared much ſa⯑tisfied, when informed the gentlemen intended viſiting their habitations. Their town was named Wharretouwa; it is ſeated on a point of land over the ſea, on the north ſide of the bay; it was paled round, and defended by a double ditch. Within the ditch a ſtage is erected for defending the place in caſe of an attack; near this ſtage, which they call Porava, quantities of darts and ſtones are depoſited to be in readineſs to repel the aſſailants. There is another ſtage [345] to command the path that leads to the town, and there are alſo ſome outworks. Upon the whole, the place ſeemed calculated to hold out a conſiderable time againſt an enemy armed with no other weapons than thoſe of the inhabi⯑tants. It appeared however deficient in water for a ſiege. They eat inſtead of bread fern root, which was here in great plenty, with dried fiſh.

Very little land is here cultivated, ſweet po⯑tatoes and yams being the only vegetables they found. There are two rocks near the foot of this fortification, both ſeparated from the main land; they are very ſmall, nevertheleſs they are not without dwelling-houſes and little fortifica⯑tions. They throw ſtones in their engagements with their hands, being deſtitute of a ſling, and thoſe and lances are their only miſſile weapons; they have, beſides the Pattoo Pattoo, already deſcribed, a ſtaff about five feet in length, and another ſhorter.

They ſailed from this bay, after taking poſ⯑ſeſſion of it in the name of the King of Great Britain, on the 15th of November; Tojava, who viſited them in his canoe juſt before their departure, ſaid he ſhould, as ſoon as the Eng⯑liſh were gone, prepare to retire to his fort, as the relations of Otirrecoonooe had menaced to take his life, as a forfeit for that of the deceaſ⯑ed, Tojava being judged partial in this affair to the Engliſh. A number of iſlands of diffe⯑rent ſizes appeared towards the north-weſt, [346] which were named Mercury Iſlands. Mercury bay lies in latitude 36 deg. 47 min. ſouth; longitude 184 deg. 4 min. weſt, and has a ſmall entrance at its mouth. On account of the number of oyſters found in the river, the Cap⯑tain gave it the name of Oyſter river. Mangrove river (which the Captain ſo called from the great number of thoſe trees that grew near it) is the moſt ſecure place for ſhipping, being at the head of the bay. The north-weſt ſide of this bay and river is much more fertile than the eaſt ſide. The inhabitants, though numerous, have no plantations; their canoes are very in⯑differently conſtructed, and are no way orna⯑mented; they lie under continual apprehen⯑ſions of Teratu, being conſidered by him as rebels.

Upon this ſhore iron ſand is in plenty to be found, which proves that there are mines of that metal up the country, it being brought down by a rivulet from thence.

On the 18th, in the morning, the Endeavour ſteered between the main, and an iſland which ſeemed very fertile, and as extenſive as Uli Etea. Many canoes filled with Indians came along-ſide, and the Indians ſung their war ſong, but the Endeavour's people paying them no at⯑tention, they threw a volley of ſtones, and then paddled away; but they preſently returned and renewed their inſults. Tupia ſpoke to them, making uſe of his old argument, that inevita⯑ble [347] deſtruction would enſue if they perſiſted; they anſwered with brandiſhing their weapons, intimating, at the ſame time, that if the Engliſh dared to come on ſhore they would deſtroy them all. Tupia ſtill perſiſted in expoſtulating with them, but to no purpoſe; and they ſoon gave another volley of ſtones; but upon a muſket being fired at one of their boats, they made a precipitate retreat.

In the evening they caſt anchor in 23 fathom, and early the next morning they ſailed up an inlet. Soon after two canoes came off, and ſome of the Indians came on board; they claimed an acquaintance with Tojava, and knew Tupia's name; and after they had received ſome pre⯑ſents they retired peaceably.

The Endeavour was now in the bay, called by the natives Ooahaouragee, and Captain Cook, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, &c. went in the boats to the bottom of the bay to examine it, and they did not return till next morning. They had been up a freſh water ri⯑ver, at the bottom of the bay, in three fathoms water, which would make a good harbour. They met with an Indian town, and a hippah, or place of refuge, the inhabitants of which invited them to land, and gave them a friendly reception. At the entrance of a wood they met with a tree ninety-eight feet high from the ground to the firſt branch, quite ſtrait, and nineteen feet in circumference; and they found ſtill lar⯑ger [348] trees of the ſame kind as they advanced into the wood. The Captain called this river THAMES, being not unlike our river of that name. They alſo found ſeveral young cabbage trees, and a new ſpecies of the palm-nut, or Pardanus.

Captain Cook weighed anchor the ſame after⯑noon, ſailing down the river with the tide, the wind blowing freſh from north north-weſt; the next morning the flood obliged him to caſt an⯑chor again; and the Captain, with Dr Solan⯑der, went on ſhore to the weſt, but made no obſervations worth relating. The ſhip, at their departure from it, was ſurrounded with canoes, which induced Mr. Banks to remain on board, that he might trade with the Indians. The chief object of theſe people was paper, for which they exchanged their arms and cloaths, and took no unfair advantages. Though the traders were honeſt in their dealings, there was one amongſt them, who took a fancy to a half-minute glaſs, but was detected in ſecreting it, and he was puniſhed with the cato'nine tails. The other Indians endeavoured to ſave him from this puniſhment; but being oppoſed, they got their arms from the canoes, and ſome of the people in them attempted to get on board. Mr. Banks and Tupia now coming upon deck, the Indians applied to Tupia; but he having no influence upon Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer, informed them of the nature of the of⯑fender's [349] intended puniſhment, which pacified them, as they imagined he was going to be put to death. The criminal not only received twelve laſhes, but afterwards a drubbing from an old man, who was thought to be his father. The canoes immediately went off, the Indians ſay⯑ing, they ſhould be afraid to return again on board. Tupia, however, had ſo much influ⯑ence over them as to bring them back; but they ſeemed to have loſt that confidence, which they had before repoſed in the Engliſh.

On the 23d the wind being ſtill againſt them, they were obliged to tide it down the river, anchoring between tides; they paſſed a point of land, which the Captain called Point Rodney, and which is the north-weſt extremity of the river. As they could not approach the land, on account of the wind, they had but a diſtant view of the main for a courſe of near thirty miles. Captain Cook comprehended, under the name of the River Thames, the whole bay; and the promontory at the north-eaſt extremity, he called Cape Colville, in honour of the peer of that name. This cape is in latitude 36 deg. 26 min. longitude 194 deg. 27 min. it is diſtin⯑guiſhable at a conſiderable diſtance by a very high rock. The river rans ſouth by eaſt from the ſouth point of this cape; it is, in the nar⯑roweſt parts, at leaſt three leagues over for near fourteen leagues, when it becomes narrower. It was thought to contain fiſh in abundance, as [350] there appeared many implements neceſſary for fiſhing; the water was in ſome places twenty-ſix fathoms deep, and gradually diminiſhed. There are ſeveral ſmall iſlands within cape Col⯑ville, which appear to form tolerable harbours. There are alſo iſlands towards the weſtern ſhore. The anchorage is good in all parts of the bay, which is defended from the ſea by a number of ſmall iſlands, which Captain Cook named Bar⯑rier Iſlands.

The circumjacent country, which is pretty extenſive, appeared to be but thinly inhabited; the natives are a ſtout and active people, and are painted red all over: their canoes were or⯑namented with carving, and were conſtructed upon a good model.

On the 24th, they ſtill continued ſteering a⯑long the ſhore, between the iſlands and the main, and in the evening anchored in an open bay, in about fourteen fathoms water. Here they caught a large number of fiſh of the ſci⯑enne, or bream kind; from which the Captain named this Bream Bay, and the extreme points of it Bream Head. There are numbers of rocks off this bay, which were called the Hen and Chickens; it is ſituated in latitude 35 deg. 46 min. ſeventeen leagues north-weſt of cape Colville. There is an extent of land of about thirty miles between Point Rodney and Bream Head; it is woody and low. No inhabitants were viſible, but from the fires perceived at [351] night, the gentlemen concluded it was inha⯑bited.

On the 25th, early in the morning, the Endea⯑vour ſailed out of the bay, keeping to the north⯑ward near the ſhore. Some iſlands were ſoon af⯑ter diſcovered, about ten miles to the north-north-eaſt, which they called the Poor Knights; upon theſe iſlands there were ſome houſes, and a few towns that appeared fortified, and the land round them ſeemed cultivated. Towards night ſeveral canoes, with a number of Indians, came up to the ſhip, and ſome came on board. Two of the Chiefs received preſents, and told the gentlemen, that they had had an account of the arrival of the Engliſh in thoſe parts. After their departure other Indians came up to trade, and ſoon began their uſual fraudulent practices; the gentlemen had recourſe to the old remedy of firing ſome ſmall ſhot, and a round ſhot, which ſoon put them to flight.

Sunday the 26th, Captain Cook continued his courſe ſlowly along the ſhore to the north. This day two canoes came up, and ſome of the Indians came on board, when they trafficked very fairly. Two larger canoes ſoon after fol⯑lowed them, and coming up to the ſhip, the people in them hailed the others, when they conferred together, and afterwards came along-ſide of the ſhip. The laſt two canoes were finely ornamented with carving, and the people, who appeared to be of higher rank, [352] were armed with various weapons; they held in high eſtimation their Patoo Patoos, which were made of ſtone and whalebone, and they had ribs of whale, with ornaments of dog's hair, which were very curious. Theſe people were of a darker complexion than thoſe to the ſouthward, and their faces were ſtained blacker, with what they call Amoco; and their thighs were ſtriped with it, very ſmall interſtices of the fleſh being left viſible. Though they all uſed the black Amoco, they applied it to different parts, and in various forms. Moſt of them had the figure of volutes on their lips, and one woman in particular was curiouſly marked upon various parts of her body. Theſe Indians ſeemed the ſuperiors of the others, they were nevertheleſs not free from the vice of pilfering, for one of them having agreed to barter a weapon for a piece of cloth, he was no ſooner in poſſeſſion of the cloth, than he paddled away without paying the price of it; but a muſquet being fired, he came back and returned the cloth. All the canoes then returned aſhore.

The Endeavour paſſed a remarkable point of land which the Captain called Cape Bret, in honour of the baronet of that name: this cape is much higher than any of the adjacent land. Within a mile to the north-eaſt by north is a curious rocky iſland; it is arched, and has a pleaſing effect at a diſtance. The natives call this Cape Motugogogo: it lies in latitude 35 deg. [353] 10 min. 30 ſec. ſouth; and longitude 185 deg. 23 min. weſt. It forms a bay to the weſt, which contains many ſmall iſlands, and Cap⯑tain Cook named the point at the north-weſt entrance Point Pococke. There are many vil⯑lages on the main as well as on the iſlands, which appeared well inhabited, and ſeveral canoes, filled with Indians, made to the ſhip, and after coming along-ſide to trade, ſhewed the ſame itch for cheating as the others. One of the midſhipmen was ſo nettled at being impoſed upon, that he had recourſe to a whimſical ex⯑pedient by way of revenge; taking a fiſh⯑ing line, he threw the lead with ſo much dexterity, that the hook caught the Indian who had impoſed upon him by the buttocks, when the line breaking, the hook remained in his poſteriors. Theſe Indians were ſtrong and well proportioned; their hair was black, and tied up in a bunch ſtuck with feathers: the Chiefs among them had garments made of fine cloth, ornamented with dog's ſkin; and they were tataowed like thoſe who had laſt appeared.

On the 27th the Endeavour was among a num⯑ber of ſmall iſlands, from which ſeveral canoes came off; but the Indians, from their frantic geſtures, ſeemed diſordered in their minds; they threw their fiſh into the ſhip by handfuls, without demanding any thing by way of barter. Some other canoes alſo came up, who ſaluted the ſhip with ſtones. One of the Indians, who [354] was particularly active, threw a ſtick at one of the Endeavour's men. It was then judged time to bring them to reaſon, and a muſquet, with ſmall ſhot was fired at him, when he fell down in the cance. A general terror was now ſpread amongſt them, and they all made a very pre⯑cipitate retreat. Among the fiſh obtained from theſe canoes, were Cavalles in great plenty, and for this reaſon the Captain called theſe iſlands by the ſame name.

For ſeveral days the wind was ſo very unfavour⯑able, that the veſſel rather loſt than gained ground; on the 29th, having weathered Cape Bret, they bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, where they anchored on the ſouth-weſt ſide of ſeveral iſlands, and ſuddenly came into four fathom and a half water. Upon ſounding, they found they had got upon a bank, and accord⯑ingly weighed and dropped over it, and an⯑chored again in ten fathoms and a half; after which the ſhip was ſurrounded by thirty-three large canoes, containing near three hundred Indians all armed. Some of them were ad⯑mitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a piece of broad cloath to one of the Chiefs, and ſome ſmall preſents to the others. They traded peaceably for ſome time, being terrified at the fire arms, the effect of which they were not un⯑acquainted with; but whilſt the Captain was at dinner, on a ſignal given by one of their Chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ſhip, and they [355] attempted to tow away the buoy; a muſquet was now fired over them, but it produced no effect; ſmall ſhot was then fired at them, but it did not reach them. A muſquet, loaded with ball, was therefore ordered to be fired, and Otegoowgoow (ſon of one of the Chiefs) was wounded in the thigh by it, which induced them immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their confuſion a round ſhot was fired, which reached the ſhore, and as ſoon as they landed they ran in ſearch of it. If theſe In⯑dians had been under any kind of military diſ⯑cipline, they might have proved a much more formidable enemy; but acting thus, without any plan or regulation, they only expoſed them⯑ſelves to the annoyance of fire arms, whilſt they could not poſſibly ſucceed in any of their deſigns.

The Captain, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander landed upon the iſland, and the Indians in the canoes ſoon after came on ſhore. The gentle⯑men were now in a ſmall cove, and they were preſently ſurrounded by near four hundred armed Indians; but the Captain not ſuſpecting any hoſtile deſign on the part of the natives, remained peaceably diſpoſed. The gentlemen marching towards them, drew a line, intimating that they were not to paſs it; they did not in⯑fringe upon this boundary for ſome time, but at length they ſung the ſong of defiance, and began to dance, whilſt a party attempted to [356] draw the Endeavour's boats on ſhore; theſe ſignals for an attack being immediately follow⯑ed by the Indians breaking in upon the line, the gentlemen judged it time to defend them⯑ſelves, and accordingly the Captain fired his muſquet, loaded with ſmall ſhot, which was ſeconded by Mr. Banks diſcharging his piece, and two of the men followed his example. This threw the Indians into confuſion, and they retreated; but were rallied again by one of their Chiefs, who ſhouted and waved his patoo patoo. The Doctor now pointed his muſquet at this hero, and hit him; this ſtopt his career, and he took to flight with the other Indians. They retired to an eminence in a collective bo⯑dy, and ſeemed dubious whether they ſhould return to the charge. They were now at too great a diſtance for ball to reach them; but theſe operations being obſerved from the ſhip, ſhe brought her broad-ſide to bear, and by fir⯑ing over them ſoon diſperſed them. The In⯑dians had in this ſkirmiſh two of their people wounded, but none killed. Peace being thus reſtored, the gentlemen began to gather celery and other herbs; but ſuſpecting ſome of the natives were lurking about with evil deſigns, they repaired to a cave, which was at a ſmall diſtance; here they found the Chief, who had that day received a preſent from the Cap⯑tain; he came forth with his wife and brother, and ſolicited their clemency. It appeared, that [357] one of the wounded Indians was a bro⯑ther of this Chief, who was under great anxiety leſt the wound ſhould prove mortal; but his grief was in a great degree alleviated, when he was made acquainted with the different effects of ſmall ſhot and ball; he was at the ſame time aſſured, that upon any future hoſtilities being committed ball would be uſed. This interview terminated very cordially, after ſome trifling preſents were made to the Chief and his com⯑panions.

The prudence of the gentlemen upon this occaſion, cannot be much commended. Had theſe four hundred Indians boldly ruſhed in up⯑on them at once with their weapons, the muſ⯑quetry could have done very little execution; but ſuppoſing twenty or thirty of the Indians had been wounded, for it does not appear their pieces were loaded with ball, but only ſmall ſhot, there would have remained a ſufficient number to have maſſacred them, as it appears they do not give any quarter, and none could have been expected upon this occaſion. It is true, when the ſhip brought her broad-ſide to bear, ſhe might have made great havock amongſt the Indians; but this would have been too late to ſave the party on ſhore.

Being again in their boats, they rowed to ano⯑ther part of the ſame iſland, when landing and gaining an eminence, they had a very agreea⯑ble and romantic view of a great number of [358] iſlands, well inhabited and cultivated. The in⯑habitants of an adjacent town approached un⯑armed, and teſtified great humility and ſubmiſ⯑ſion. Some of the party on ſhore, who had been very violent for having the Indians pu⯑niſhed for their fraudulent conduct, were now guilty of treſpaſſes equally reprehenſible, hav⯑ing forced into ſome of the plantations, and dug up potatoes. The Captain upon this oc⯑caſion ſhewed ſtrict juſtice in puniſhing each of the offenders with twelve laſhes: one of them being very refractory upon the occaſion, and complaining of the hardſhip, thinking an Eng⯑liſhman had a right to plunder an Indian with impunity, was flogged out of this opinion with ſix additional laſhes. Probably his adding ‘"that in this, he had only followed the exam⯑ple of his ſuperiors,"’ might have had no little weight in procuring him this laſt ſentence.

It being a dead calm on the 30th, two boats were ſent to ſound the harbour, and many ca⯑noes came up, and traded with great probity: the gentlemen went again on ſhore, and met with a very civil reception from the natives; and this friendly intercourſe continued all the time they remained in the bay, which was ſe⯑veral days. Being upon a viſit to the old Chief, he ſhewed them the inſtruments uſed in tataow⯑ing, which were very like thoſe at Otaheite em⯑ployed upon the like occaſion. They ſaw the man who had been wounded by the ball, when [359] the attempt was made to carry off the ſhip's buoy; and though it had gone through the fleſhy part of his arm, it did not ſeem to give him the leaſt pain or uneaſineſs.

On Tueſday the 5th, in the morning, they weighed anchor, but were ſoon becalmed, and a ſtrong current ſetting towards the ſhore, they were driven in with ſuch rapidity, that they ex⯑pected every moment to run upon the breakers, which appeared above water not more than a cable's length diſtance; they were ſo near the land, that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of the danger, held a converſation with the In⯑dians, who were ſtanding on the beach. They were happily relieved, however, from this a⯑larming ſituation by a freſh breeze, ſuddenly ſpringing up from the ſhore.

The bay which they had left was called the Bay of Iſlands, on account of the numerous iſlands it contains; they catched but few fiſh while they lay there, but procured great plenty from the natives, who are extremely expert at fiſhing, and diſplay great ingenuity in the form of their nets, which are made of a kind of graſs; they are two or three hundred fathoms in length, and remarkably ſtrong; and they have them in ſuch plenty, that it is ſcarce poſſible to go a hundred yards upon the beach, without meeting with numbers lying in heaps. Theſe people did not appear to be under the government of any particular Chief or Sovereign, and they [360] ſeemed to live in a perfect ſtate of friendſhip, notwithſtanding their villages were fortified. According to their obſervations upon the tides, the flood comes from the ſouth, and there is a current from the weſt.

Dec. 7, Several canoes put off and followed the Endeavour, but a breeze ariſing, Captain Cook did not wait for them: on the 8th they tacked, and ſtood in for the ſhore: and on the 9th, they were about ſeven leagues to the weſt⯑ward of the Cavalles, and ſoon after came to a deep bay, which the Captain named Doubtleſs Bay. The wind prevented their putting in here, and being ſoon after becalmed, they were vi⯑ſited by ſeveral canoes from ſhore, with whom they trafficked. From theſe Indians they learnt, they were about two days ſail from Moore When⯑nua, where the land changed its ſhape, and in⯑ſtead of extending to the weſtward, turned to the ſouth; and that to the north-north-weſt there was an extenſive country, named Ulima⯑roah, where the inhabitants lived upon hogs, which they called Booah, and was the ſame name given them by the inhabitants of the iſlands in the South Seas. They ſaw upon the coaſt ſe⯑veral plantations, of the Eaowte, or cloth trees, and ſome of the Koomarra. They beat to windward four days, and made but little way. On the 10th, the land appeared low and bar⯑ren, but was not deſtitute of inhabitants; the next morning, they ſtood in with the land, [361] which forms a peninſula, and which the Cap⯑tain named Knuckle Point. Another bay, that lies contiguous, Captain Cook called Sandy Bay, in the middle of it is a high mountain, which was named Mount Camel, on account of its reſembling that animal. Several canoes put off, but could not reach the ſhip, which now tacked and ſtood to the northward, till the af⯑ternoon of the 12th, when ſhe ſtood to the north-eaſt. Towards night it began to rain and blow, and in the morning it was ſo tem⯑peſtuous, as to ſplit the main-top-ſail, and the fore mizen-top-ſails. Early in the morning of the 14th, they ſaw land to the ſouthward; and on the 15th, they tacked and ſtood to the weſt⯑ward; next day they diſcovered land from the maſt-head to the ſouth-ſouth-weſt; and on the 16th came off the northern extremity of New Zealand, which the Captain called NORTH CAPE. It lies in latitude 34 deg. 22 min. ſouth, longi⯑tude 186 deg. 55 min. weſt, and forms the north point of Sandy Bay. Their ſituation varied but little till the 24th, when they diſco⯑vered land, which they judged to be the iſlands of the Three Kings, though they did not reſem⯑ble the deſcription of them in Dalrymple's ac⯑count. The chief iſland is in latitude 34 deg. 12 min. ſouth, longitude 187 deg. 48 min. weſt, between fourteen or fifteen leagues from North Cape. Mr. Banks went out in the ſmall boat, and caught ſome birds that greatly reſembled [362] geeſe, and they were very good eating. On the 27th, it blew very hard from the eaſt all day, accompanied with heavy ſhowers of rain, and they brought the ſhip under a reef main-ſail. On the 30th they ſaw land, bearing north-eaſt, which was thought to be Cape Maria Van Diemen, but the ſea being very bo [...]ſterous, they did not venture to approach it, but tacked a⯑bout and ſtood to the north-weſt.

January 1, 1770, they tacked and ſtood to the eaſtward, and on the 3d they ſaw land a⯑gain; it was high and flat, and tended away to the ſouth-eaſt, beyond the reach of the naked eye. It is remarkable, that the Endeavour was three weeks in making ten leagues to the weſt⯑ward, and that ſhe met with a violent gale of wind in latitude 35 deg. ſouth, at Midſummer. On the morning of the 4th they ſtood along the ſhore, the coaſt appearing ſandy and barren, dreary and inhoſpitable; ſteering northward on the 6th they ſaw land again, which they ima⯑gined to be Cape Maria: on the 7th, they had light breezes, and were ſometimes becalmed, when they ſaw a ſun-fiſh, ſhort and thick in figure, with two large fins, but ſcarce any tail, reſembling a ſhark in colour and ſize. They continued ſteering eaſt till the 9th, when they perceived land, and were ſoon after a-breaſt of a point, which Captain Cook named Woody-head. From the ſouth-weſt there is a ſmall iſland, which the Captain called Gannet Iſland. [363] Another point remarkably high to the eaſt-north-eaſt, the Captain named Albetroſs Point, on the north ſide of which a bay is formed that promiſes good anchorage. At about two leagues diſtance from Albetroſs Point to the north-eaſt, they diſcovered a remarkable high mountain, equal in height to that of Teneriffe, the ſum⯑mit of which was covered with ſnow, and it was named Mount Egmont. It is in latitude 39 deg. 16 min. longitude 185 deg. 15 min. weſt, and the country round it is pleaſant, preſenting an agreeable verdure, interſected with woods: the coaſt forms an extenſive cape, which the Captain likewiſe called cape Egmont, in honour of the nobleman of that name. It is about twenty-ſeven leagues to the ſouth ſouth-weſt of Albetroſs Point, having two ſmall iſlands to the north, near a very high point of a conic figure. This day ſome very heavy ſhowers of rain fell, accompanied with thunder and lightening. The Captain propoſed careening the ſhip here, and taking in wood and water; and accordingly, on the 15th, ſteered for an inlet; when it be⯑ing almoſt a calm, the ſhip was carried by the current very near the ſhore, but got clear with the aſſiſtance of the boats. Whilſt this was doing a ſea lion made its appearance; it is a very curious creature, and anſwers the deſcrip⯑tion given of it in Lord Anſon's Voyage. The Captain ſent the pinnace to examine a ſmall cove that appeared, but ſoon after recalled her, on [364] ſeeing the natives launch and arm their canoes. The Endeavour anchored in a commodious part of the bay, in ſailing towards which ſpot an Indian town was deſcried, when the inhabitants waved their hands, ſeemingly to invite the En⯑deavour's people to land. In paſſing the point of the bay, they obſerved an armed centinel on duty, who was twice relieved. Four canoes came from ſhore to viſit the ſhip, but none of the Indians would venture on board, except an old man, who ſeemed of elevated rank: his countrymen took great pains to prevent his coming on board, but they could not divert him from his purpoſe, and he was received with the utmoſt civility and hoſpitality. Tupia and the old man joined noſes, according to the cuſtom of the country, and after receiving ſeveral pre⯑ſents, he returned to his aſſociates, when they began to dance and laugh, and ſoon after re⯑tired. The Captain and the other gentlemen now went on ſhore, where they met with plenty of wood and water, and were very ſucceſsful in fiſhing, catching ſome hundred weight in a ſhort time.

On the 16th the Endeavour's people were en⯑gaged in careening her, when three canoes came off with a great number of Indians, and brought ſeveral of their women with them. This circumſtance was judged a favourable preſage of their peaceable diſpoſition, but they ſoon gave proofs of the contrary, by attempting [365] to ſtop the long-boat that was ſent on ſhore for water, when Captain Cook had recourſe to the old expedient of firing ſome ſhot, which in⯑timidated them for the preſent; but they ſoon gave freſh proofs of their inſidious deſigns. One of them ſnatched ſome paper from the En⯑deavour's people who were trading with them, and brandiſhing his patoo patoo, put himſelf in a threatening poſture; upon which it was judged expedient to fire ſome ſmall ſhot at him, which wounded him in the knee; this ſtep put an end to the correſpondence with regard to trade; but Tupia ſtill continued converſing with them, and making many inquiries concerning the cu⯑rioſities of New Zealand; he alſo aſked them, if they had ever before ſeen a ſhip of the mag⯑nitude of the Endeavour; to which they re⯑plied, they had never ſeen ſuch a veſſel, nor ever heard that one had been upon the coaſt, though Taſman certainly touched here, which was only fifteen miles ſouth of Murderer's bay. There is great plenty of fiſh in all the coves of this bay; among others here are cut⯑tle fiſh, large breams, ſmall grey breams, ſmall and large baracootas, flying gurnards, horſe mackrel, dog fiſh, ſoles, dabs, mullets, drums, ſcorpenas, or rock fiſh, cole fiſh, ſhags, chi⯑meras, &c. The inhabitants catch their fiſh as follows; their net is cylindrical, extended by ſeveral hoops at the bottom, and contracted at the top; the fiſh going in to feed upon what [366] is put in the net, are caught in great abundance; there are alſo birds of various kinds, and in great numbers, particularly parrots, wood pi⯑geons, water hens, hawks, and many different ſinging birds. An herb, a ſpecies of Philadel⯑phus, was uſed here inſtead of tea; and a plant, called Teegoomme, reſembling rug cloaks, ſerved the natives for garments. The environs of the cove where the Endeavour lay is covered entirely with wood, and the ſupple jacks are ſo numerous, that it is with difficulty paſſengers can purſue their way; here is a numerous ſand-fly that is very diſagreeable. The tops of many of the hills are covered with fern. The air of the country is very moiſt, and has ſome qualities that promote putrefaction, as birds that had been ſhot but a few hours were found with maggots in them. The women who accompanied the men in the canoes wore a head-dreſs, which the gentlemen had no where met with before. It was compoſed of black feathers, tied in a bunch on the top of the head, which greatly increaſed its height. The manner of their diſpoſing of their dead is very different to what is practiſed in the South-ſea iſlands, they tie a large ſtone to the body, and throw it into the ſea: the gentlemen ſaw the body of a woman which had been diſpoſed of this way, but which by ſome accident had diſ⯑engaged itſelf from the ſtone, floating upon the water. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the [367] Doctor viſited another cove, about two miles from the ſhip. There was a family of Indians who were greatly alarmed at the approach of the gentlemen, all running away except one; but upon Tupia's converſing with him the others returned. They found, by the proviſions of this family, that they were cannibals, here being ſeveral human bones that had been lately dreſſed and picked; and it appeared, that a ſhort time before, ſix of their enemies having fallen into their hands, they had killed four and eaten them, and that the other two were drowned in endea⯑vouring to make their eſcape. They made no ſecret of this abominable cuſtom, but anſwered Tupia, who was deſired to aſcertain the fact, with great compoſure, that his conjectures were juſt, that they were the bones of a man, and teſtified by ſigns, that they thought human fleſh delicious food. Upon being aſked, why they had not eaten the body of the woman that had been ſeen floating upon the water? They replied, ſhe had died of a diſorder, and that moreover ſhe was related to them, and they never ate any but their enemies. Upon Mr. Banks's ſtill teſtifying ſome doubts concerning the fact, one of the Indians drew the bone of a man's arm through his mouth, and this gen⯑tleman had the curioſity to bring it away with him. There was a woman in this family whoſe arms and legs were cut in a ſhocking [368] manner, and it appeared ſhe had thus wounded herſelf, becauſe her huſband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy.

Some of the Indians brought four ſkulls one day to ſell, which they rated at a very high price. The brains had been taken out, and probably eaten, but the ſcalp and hair remain⯑ed. They ſeemed to have been dried by fire, in order to preſerve them from putrefaction. The gentlemen likewiſe ſaw the bail of a canoe, which was made of a human ſkull. In a word, their ideas were ſo horrid and brutal, that they ſeemed to pride themſelves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a peculiar pleaſure in ſhew⯑ing the manner in which they killed their enemies, it being conſidered as very meritori⯑ous to be expert at this deſtruction. The me⯑thod uſed was to knock them down with their patoo patoos, and then rip up their bellies.

An amazing number of birds uſually began their melody about two o'clock in the morning, and ſerenaded the gentlemen till the time of their riſing. This harmony was very agreea⯑ble, as the ſhip lay at a convenient diſtance from the ſhore, to hear it. Theſe feathered choiriſters, like the Engliſh nightingales, never ſing in the day time.

On the 17th, the ſhip was viſited by a ca⯑noe from the hippah, or village; it contain⯑ed, among others, the aged Indian, of ſupe⯑rior

[369] diſtinction, who had firſt viſited the Engliſh upon their arrival. In a conference which Tupia had with him, he teſtified his apprehen⯑ſions, that their enemies would very ſoon viſit them, and repay the compliment, for killing and eating the four men.

On the 18th they received no viſit from the Indians, but going out in the pinnace to in⯑ſpect the bay, they ſaw a ſingle man in a canoe, fiſhing in the manner already deſcribed. It was remarkable, that this man did not pay the leaſt attention to the people in the pinnace, but continued to purſue his employment even when they came along-ſide of him, without once looking at them. Some of the Endea⯑vour's people being on ſhore found three hu⯑man hip bones, cloſe to an oven: theſe were brought on board, as well as the hair of a man's head, which was found in a tree. The next day a forge was ſet up to repair the iron work, and ſome Indians viſited the ſhip with plenty of fiſh, which they bartered very fairly for nails.

On the 20th, Mr. Banks purchaſed of the old Indian a man's head, which he ſeemed very unwilling to part with; the ſkull had been frac⯑tured by a blow, and the brains were extracted, and like the others it was preſerved from putre⯑faction. From the care with which they kept theſe ſkulls, and the reluctance with which they bartered any, it was imagined they were conſi⯑dered [370] as trophies of war, and teſtimonials of their valour. In this day's excurſion they did not meet with a ſingle native; the ground on every ſide was quite uncultivated; but they diſcovered a very good harbour. The ſucceed⯑ing day the ſhip's company were allowed to go on ſhore for their amuſement, and the gentle⯑men employed themſelves in fiſhing, in which they were very ſucceſsful. Some of the com⯑pany in their excurſion met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an elevated ſitu⯑ation, but were ſurrounded by two or three wide ditches, with a draw-bridge, which, tho' ſimple in its ſtructure, is capable of anſwering every purpoſe againſt the arms of the natives. Within theſe ditches is a fence, made with ſtakes, fixed in the earth. A deciſive conqueſt or victory over the beſieged occaſions an entire depopulation of that diſtrict, as the vanquiſhed, not only thoſe who are killed, but the priſoners likewiſe are devoured by the victors. From what has been related by ſuch unqueſtionable authority, there can remain no doubt with the unprejudiced reader, that the inhabitants of this part of the globe are cannibals. There are, indeed, ſome cloſet travellers, who treat every thing as viſionary, that they have not been eye-wit⯑neſſes of, and therefore diſbelieve all they read, related by real travellers, that does not ſquare with their own notions and ideas; but as it may [371] be impoſſible to convince theſe ſceptical readers, we ſhall leave them to amuſe themſelves with their doubts and objections.

The 22d was employed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in collecting of plants, whilſt Captain Cook made ſome obſervations on the main land on the ſouth-eaſt ſide of the inlet, which conſiſted of a chain of high hills, and formed part of the ſouth-weſt ſide of the ſtreight; the oppoſite ſide extended far to the eaſt. He alſo diſcovered a village, and many houſes that had been deſerted, and another village that appeared to be inhabited. There were many ſmall iſlands round the coaſt that ſeemed entirely barren, and what few inhabi⯑tants were upon them then lived principally upon fiſh. On the 24th they viſited a hippah, which was ſituated on a very high rock, hollow under⯑neath, forming a fine natural arch, one ſide of which joined to the land, and the other roſe out of the ſea. The inhabitants received the gen⯑tlemen with great civility, and very readily ſhewed them every thing that was curious. This hippah was partly ſurrounded with a palliſade, and it had a fighting ſtage like that already deſcribed. Here they met with a croſs reſembling a crucifix, which was ornamented with feathers, and which was erected as a mo⯑nument for a deceaſed perſon; but they could not learn how his body was diſpoſed of. From a converſation that Tupia had with theſe [372] people, a diſcovery was made, that an officer being in a boat near this village, and ſome canoes coming off made him imagine they had hoſtile deſigns, and he fired upon them with ball, which made them retire with much precipita⯑tion, but they could not effect their retreat be⯑fore one of them was wounded. What made this raſh action the more to be lamented was, that the Indians afterwards gave every poſſible aſſurance that their intentions, upon this occa⯑ſion, were entirely friendly.

On the 25th the Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on ſhore to ſhoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were among the creeks catching fiſh: they behaved very civilly, and received ſome trifling preſents from the gentlemen. The next day they went to take a view of the ſtreight, that paſſes between the eaſtern and weſtern ſeas: they accordingly attained the ſummit of a hill, but it being cloudy weather, they could not ſee at any con⯑ſiderable diſtance. Here, however, they e⯑rected a pile, leaving in it muſket balls, ſmall ſhot, beads, &c. as a teſtimonial of this place having been viſited by Europeans. Upon their return they met with another Indian fa⯑mily, who behaved to them very reſpectfully, and aſſiſted in procuring them water. They alſo viſited another hippah upon a rock that was almoſt inacceſſible; it conſiſted of about ninety [373] houſes, and had a fighting ſtage. The gentle⯑men made the inhabitants ſome ſmall preſents, and they in return furniſhed them with dried fiſh.

The ſhip's company were, on the 27th and 28th, engaged in making neceſſary repairs, and getting her ready for ſea. The next day they were viſited by Topoa, their old friend, and ſome other Indians. They ſaid, that the man who had received a wound from the officer, near the hippah, was dead; but this aſſertion proved afterwards groundleſs. The Doctor and Mr. Banks often went on ſhore whilſt the ſhip was preparing for ſea, and made ſeveral obſerva⯑tions upon the coaſt to the north-weſt: they perceived an iſland, at about ten leagues diſ⯑tance, between which and the main there were ſeveral ſmaller iſlands. The Captain alſo went on ſhore, and erected another pyramid of ſtones, in which he put ſome bullets, beads, &c. as before, with the addition of a piece of ſilver coin, and placed part of an old pendant on the top, to diſtinguiſh it. Some of the people who had been ſent out to gather celery, met with ſeveral of the natives, among whom were ſome women, whoſe huſbands had lately fallen into the hands of the enemy, and they were cutting many parts of their body in the moſt ſhocking manner with ſharp ſtones, in teſtimony of their exceſſive grief. What made this ceremony ap⯑pear ridiculous as well as ſhocking, was, that [374] the male Indians, who were with them, paid not the leaſt attention to it, but with the great⯑eſt unconcern imaginable, employed themſelves in repairing ſome empty huts upon the ſpot.

On Tueſday the 30th, two poſts were erect⯑ed, inſcribed with the ſhip's name, &c. as uſual; one was placed at the watering-place, with the Union flag upon it, and the other in the ſame manner, on the iſland of Motuara; and the in⯑habitants being informed, that theſe poſts were meant as memorials of the Endeavour having touched at this place promiſed never to deſtroy them. The Capt [...]n then named this inlet Queen Charlotte's Sound; and took poſſeſſion of it in the name, and for the uſe of his Majeſty, and a bottle of wine was drank to the Queen's health.

The Captain made the old man ſome preſents; among others there were a ſilver three-pence and ſome ſpike nails, with the broad arrow upon them. Topaa being queſtioned concerning a paſſage into the eaſtern ſea, anſwered, that there certainly was ſuch a paſſage; and he alſo informed the Captain, that the land to the ſouth-weſt of the ſtreight, where he then was, conſiſted of two iſlands, named Tovy Poennammoo, and that it would take about two days to ſail round them; he added, that there was a third iſland to the eaſt, called Eaheinomauwe, which was of conſiderable extent; and that the land contiguous to this inlet was called Tiera Witte.

[375]Towards night, on the 31ſt, a briſk gale aroſe, attended with heavy ſhowers, and the next morning the weather became ſo very tem⯑peſtuous, that the Endeavour had her hawſer broke, and ſeveral caſks of water that had been left on ſhore were waſhed away with the rain.

The 2d, 3d and 4th of February, were chiefly ſpent in preparing for their departure, and purchaſing fiſh of the natives, who confirmed the accounts that Topoa had given, reſpecting an eaſtern paſſage and the adjacent iſlands. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were in the mean while chiefly engaged in collecting ſeeds and ſhells of different kinds. They got under ſail the 5th, but the wind not continuing, they came again to an anchor. Topaa viſited the gentlemen again to bid them farewel; and being queſtioned, whether he had ever heard that ſuch a veſſel as the Endeavour had touched there, he anſwered in the negative; but added, there was a tradition of a ſmall veſſel coming from a place called Ulimaroa (a diſtant country to the north) that there were only four men in her, and that they were all put to death.

Mr. Banks and the Doctor went again on ſhore, in ſearch of natural curioſities, when they met with a very amiable Indian family, among whom was a widow, and a pretty youth about ten years of age. She had juſt loſt her huſband, and was performing the ceremony of the country upon the occaſion. They behav⯑ed [376] with the utmoſt hoſpitality and courteſy, and endeavoured to prevail with the gentlemen to ſtay all night, but they expecting the ſhip to ſail, could not accept of the invitation. This family ſeemed the moſt enlightened and intel⯑ligent ſet of Indians the gentlemen had as yet met with, which made them regret they had not fallen into their company before, as they would probably have derived much informa⯑tion from them.

On the 6th of February, in the morning, the Endeavour ſailed out of the bay, which the ſhip's company, from an abhorrence of the brutal cuſtom that prevails here of eating men, called Cannibal Bay. They bent their courſe to an opening on the eaſt; in the evening, being in the mouth of the ſtreights, they were becalm⯑ed in latitude 41 deg. ſouth, longitude 184 deg. 45 min. weſt. The two points which form this entrance, were named cape Koomaroo, and point Jackſon. The natives call the land about it Totarranue; and the harbour, which the Captain named Ship Cove, is very ſafe and com⯑modious. A ſhip may enter it either between Motuara and the iſland of Hamote, or between the weſtern ſhore and Motuara. Care, however, muſt be taken to attend to the tides; when there is little wind they flow about nine or ten o'clock at the full and change of the moon, and riſe and fall about ſeven feet and a half, paſſing through the ſtreight from the ſouth eaſt.

[377]The natives about this ſound are not above four hundred in number; they are ſcattered along the coaſt, and live upon fern root and fiſh; the latter of which was the only com⯑modity they traded in. They were not en⯑tirely ignorant of the uſe of iron, bartering their fiſh for nails, and often giving them the preference to any other trifles that were offered them; they ſoon rejected paper when they found it was not water proof; nor was the cloth of Otaheite held in much eſtimation by them; but the cloths of Engliſh manufacture they highly valued. The timber here is very good, and fit for almoſt all purpoſes, except maſts; be⯑ſides fiſh, which is in great plenty, here are ſhags, and ſome other kinds of wild fowl, in abundance.

The Endeavour having left the ſound, ſteered eaſtward, and about ſix o'clock in the evening they were greatly alarmed at their being carried, by the rapidity of the current, very cloſe to one of the two iſlands which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the entrance of the ſounds. The ſhip was in ſuch imminent dan⯑ger, that they expected every minute ſhe would be daſhed to pieces; but letting go an anchor, and veering one hundred and ſixty fathoms of cable, ſhe was brought up, when they were not above two cables length from the rocks: in this ſituation they were obliged to wait for the ebb of the tide, which was not till after midnight; at three o'clock in the morn⯑ing [378] they weighed anchor, and a fine breeze ſpringing up ſoon after, they were carried through the ſtreight with great velocity. At the entrance of the ſtreight, on the north-ſide, there is a ſmall iſland, which was named Entry Iſland. The narroweſt part of this ſtreight, which was called Cooke's Streight, is between Cape Tierawitte and Cape Koamaroo; it is about thirteen miles long and fourteen broad; the ſafeſt paſſage is on the north-eaſt ſhore, the other being rocky and dangerous. The two eaſtern points of the ſtreight Captain Cook named Cape Palliſer and Cape Campbell; the firſt is in latitude 41 deg. 44 min. ſouth; lon⯑gitude 183 deg. 45 min. weſt; and the latter in latitude 41 deg. 34 min. ſouth-eaſt, and lon⯑gitude 183 deg. 58 min. weſt. The Endea⯑vour was now about three leagues from land, facing a deep bay, which was called Cloudy Bay. Some of the gentlemen on board expreſſing a doubt that Eahienomauwe was not an iſland, the Endeavour ſteered ſouth-eaſt, in order to aſcertain whether it was or not; upon the wind's ſhifting, ſhe ſtood eaſtward, and ſteered all night north-eaſt by eaſt. They were off Cape Palliſer next morning (the 8th) when they diſ⯑covered that the land reached away to the north-eaſt towards Cape Turnagain. Three canoes came off in the afternoon, with ſeveral people in them; they made a good appearance, and their canoes were ornamented like thoſe of the [379] Indians of the northern coaſt. They came on board without the leaſt heſitation, and behaved very civilly; a mutual exchange of preſents took place, which was the firſt inſtance they met with of ſuch courteſy among any of the Indians. By their aſking for Whow, which ſig⯑nified nails, it was imagined they had heard of the Endeavour's people from the inhabitants of ſome other place where ſhe had touched. They reſembled the natives of Tolaga Bay in their dreſs. One old man was tataowed in a very remarkable manner; he was likewiſe mark⯑ed with a ſtreak of red paint acroſs the noſe, and over both cheeks; his hair was quite white as well as his beard. His garment was made of flax, with a wrought border, under which was a kind of petticoat, made of a cloth called Aooree Waow; his ears were decorated with teeth and pieces of green ſtone. His voice was ſoft and low, and he appeared, upon the whole, to be a perſon of diſtinguiſhed rank. Theſe Indians retired greatly ſatisfied with the preſents they had received; and the Endeavour, after parting from them, ſteered coaſtwiſe, till the 9th in the morning, which being a clear day, it was eaſily determined that Eahienomauwe was certainly an iſland.

On the 14th of February about ſixty Indi⯑ans, in four double canoes, came within a ſtone's caſt of the ſhip, which they beheld with ſurpriſe. Tupia endeavoured to perſuade them [380] to approach nearer, which they refuſed, and made towards the ſhore, but did not reach it till after it was dark. From the behavi⯑our of theſe people, the place from whence they came was called the Iſland of Lookers-on. On the 17th of this month they ſaw an iſland, five leagues from the coaſt of Tovy Poenammoo, which was called after the name of Mr. Banks. This iſland appeared to be inhabited, as they ſaw a few Indians on it, and in one place be⯑held the ſmoke of a fire. As no farther ſigns of land appeared to the ſouthward, they ſteer⯑ed to the weſt on Sunday the 18th, and made various way till the 23d, when it fell calm. Mr. Banks took this opportunity to go a ſhooting in his boat; when he ſhot ſome Port Egmont hens, like thoſe found on the iſland of Faro, and were the firſt they had ſeen on this coaſt. On Sunday the 25th they ſaw a point of land, in 45 deg. 35 min. ſouth latitude, which Cap⯑tain Cook named CAPE SAUNDERS, in honour of the Admiral of that name. They kept at a ſmall diſtance from the ſhore, which is inter⯑ſperſed with hills that are green, and abound in trees; but they did not ſee a ſingle inhabitant. They had various winds and ſeas till the 4th of March, when they ſaw ſeveral whales and ſeals.—On the 9th they ſaw a ledge of rocks, and ſoon afterwards another ledge, three leagues from the ſhore, which they paſſed to the north during the night, and diſcovered the others un⯑der [381] their bow at day-break. Thus they had a narrow eſcape from deſtruction; and theſe ledges of rocks were denominated the TRAPS, from their being adapted to entrap the unwary. The ſouthermoſt point of this land they called SOUTH CAPE, and indeed it proved to be the ſouthern extremity of the whole country.

In the morning they ſailed northward, and, on the day following, diſcovered a barren rock, about a mile in circumference, very high, and five leagues from the main land. This was called SOLANDER'S ISLAND. On the 13th they diſcovered a bay, which contains ſeveral iſlands, behind which, if there be depth of water, there muſt be ſhelter from all winds. Captain Cook called this DUSKY-BAY, and it is remark⯑able for having five high, peaked rocks, lying off it, which look like the thumb and four fin⯑gers of a man's hand; whence it was denomi⯑nated POINT FIVE FINGERS. Three leagues to the ſouth of Duſky Bay lies the weſtermoſt point of land on the whole coaſt, which was therefore called WEST-CAPE.

On the 14th they paſſed a ſmall narrow opening in the land, where there appeared to be a good harbour, formed by an iſland. On the land behind it were mountains covered with ſnow. On the 16th they paſſed a point, con⯑ſiſting of high red cliffs, which received the name of CASCADE POINT, from a caſcade of water which fell down it in ſeveral ſmall ſtreams. [382] On the 18th in the morning they obſerved the vallies as well as the mountains covered with ſnow, which they thought had fallen in the night, when they had rain at ſea. On the 23d they gave the name of Rock's Point to a head of land, off which lay ſome rocks above the water.

They had now almoſt paſſed the whole of the north weſt coaſt of Tovy Poenammoo; the face of the country afforded nothing worth notice, but a ridge of rocks of a ſtupendous height, ‘"which Dr. Hawkeſworth deſcribes as totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with ſnow, which is to be ſeen in large patches in many parts of them, and has probably lain there ever ſince the creation of the world; a proſpect more rude, craggy, and deſolate than this country affords from the ſea, cannot poſſibly be conceived; for as far inland as the eye can reach, nothing ap⯑pears but the ſummits of rocks, which ſtand ſo near together, that, inſtead of vallies, there is only fiſſures between them."’

By the 27th they had ſailed round the whole country, and determined to depart from the coaſt, as ſoon as they had taken in a ſtock of water. For this purpoſe the Captain went aſhore in the long-boat, and found an excellent watering-place, and a proper birth for the ſhip; which being moored, they began filling their [383] caſks; while the carpenter and his crew were employed in cutting wood. On the 30th the Captain, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went in the pinnace to examine the bay, and the land on its borders, on which the two laſt mentioned gentlemen found ſeveral plants, of a ſpecies they had not ſeen before. They ſaw no inhabitants; but found ſeveral Indian huts, which appeared to have been long deſerted. When they returned on board in the evening, the ſhip was ready to ſail, all the wood and water being on board. A council of the officers was now held, as to the paſſage they ſhould take to England; when it was reſolved to return by the Eaſt Indies, and with that view to ſteer for the eaſt coaſt of New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coaſt to the northward.

This reſolution being taken, they ſailed at day-break, on Saturday March 31, 1770, and taking their departure from an eaſtern point, which they had ſeen on the 23d, they called it CAPE FAREWELL. The bay from which they ſailed was named ADMIRALTY BAY, and the two Capes thereof CAPE STEPHENS, and CAPE JACKSON, the names of the then Secretaries to the Board of Admiralty. Between the iſland and Cape Farewell is a bay, which they called BLIND BAY, and which Captain Cook ſuppoſes, to be the ſame that is diſtinguiſhed in Taſman's Voyage, by the name of Murderers Bay.

[384]We ſhall now proceed to give ſuch an ac⯑count of the country and its inhabitants, as could be acquired during the circumnavigation of the coaſt. Abel Janſen Taſman, a Dutch⯑man, was the firſt European that made a diſco⯑very of NEW ZEALAND, to which he gave the name of STAATEN LAND, that is, the land of the States General. Taſman never went on ſhore, as the Indians attacked him ſoon after he came to an anchor, in the bay to which he gave the name of Murderers Bay. From the time of Taſman's diſcovery, which was in Decem⯑ber 1642, till the preſent voyage, the whole country, except that part which Taſman ſaw, remained totally unknown, and has been ſup⯑poſed to be part of a ſouthern continent; but it now proves to be two large iſlands, ſeparated by a ſtreight, of the breadth of about twelve miles.

The ſituation of theſe iſlands is between 34 and 48 degrees of ſouth latitude, and 181 and 194 degrees of weſt longitude. The na⯑tives call the northern iſland Eaheinomauwe, and the ſouthermoſt Tovy Paenammoo.

Eaheinomauwe, though hilly, and in ſome places mountainous, is well ſtored with wood, and there is a rivulet in every valley. The ſoil of the vallies is light, but is ſo fertile, as to be well adapted for the plentiful production of all ſorts of the fruits, plants, and corn of Eu⯑rope; the inhabitants of which, if a ſetttle⯑ment [385] ſhould be effected, might ſupply them⯑ſelves with the neceſſaries and even luxuries of life, without any extraordinary exertion of their induſtry. The ſummer is more equally warm, though not hotter than in England; and it is imagined, from the vegetables that were found, that the winter is not ſo ſevere.

Dogs and rats are the only quadrupedes that were ſeen, and of the latter only a very few. The inhabitants breed the dogs for the ſole pur⯑poſe of eating them. There are ſeals and whales on the coaſt; and they once ſaw a ſea⯑lion. The birds are hawks, owls, quails; and there are ſong-birds, whoſe note is wonderfully melodious. There are ducks and ſhags of ſe⯑veral ſorts, not unlike thoſe of Europe; and the gannet, which is exactly the ſame. The ſea coaſt is viſited by albatroſſes, ſheerwaters, pintados and penguins, deſcriptions of which have been given in other voyages. The inſects are fleſh flies, beetles, butterflies, ſand-flies and muſquitos.

Tovy Poenammoo appears to be a barren country, is very mountainous, and almoſt deſ⯑titute of inhabitants.

The ſea which waſhes theſe iſlands abounds with fiſh, which are equally delicate and whole⯑ſome food. They ſeldom came to anchor but they catched enough, with hook and line only, to ſupply the whole ſhip's crew: and, when they fiſhed with nets, every meſs in the ſhip, [386] except thoſe who were too indolent, ſalted as much as ſupplied them when at ſea for ſeveral weeks after. The fiſh was not leſs various in kind than plentiful in quantity: there were ma⯑ny ſorts they had never before ſeen; but the ſailors readily gave names to all of them. They had ſeveral ſorts of mackrel, one of which was the ſame as we eat in England. Theſe fiſh were catched by the natives in immenſe quantities, and ſold to the crew on the moſt moderate terms: but the richeſt dainty theſe ſeas afforded was the ſea cray-fiſh, which differ from thoſe ſeen in England, by having more prickles on the back, and being red when firſt catched. Theſe they purchaſed of the natives on the north coaſt, who dive for them, and find where they lie with their feet. They had ſeveral kinds of ſkate, and a kind of dog fiſh, of a more delicate fla⯑vour, though otherwiſe ſimilar to the ſkate eat⯑en in London. Eels, congers, clams, oyſters, cockles, and flat fiſh, reſembling both ſoles and flounders, were likewiſe found in great plenty on this coaſt.

This country abounds with foreſts, filled with very large, ſtrait, and clean timber. There is one tree about the ſize of an oak, which was diſtinguiſhed by a ſcarlet flower, that appeared to be compoſed of ſeveral fibres; and another which grows in ſwampy ground, very ſtrait and tall, bearing ſmall bunches of berries, and a leaf reſembling that of the yew tree. About [387] four hundred ſpecies of plants were found, all of which are unknown in England, except garden night-ſhade, ſow-thiſtle, two or three kinds of fern, and one or two ſorts of graſs. They found wild celery, and a kind of croſſes, in great a⯑bundance, on the ſea ſhore; and of eatable plants raiſed by cultivation, only coccos, yams, and ſweet potatoes. There are plantations of many acres of theſe yams and potatoes. The inhabitants likewiſe cultivate the gourd; and the Chineſe paper mulberry-tree is to be found, but in no abundance. There is only one ſhrub or tree in this country which produces fruit, and that is a kind of berry almoſt taſteleſs: but they have a plant which anſwers all the uſes of hemp and flax. There are two kinds of this plant, the leaves of one of which are yellow, and the other a deep red, and both of them re⯑ſemble the leaves of flags. Of theſe leaves they make lines and cordage, and much ſtronger than any thing of the kind in Europe. Theſe leaves they likewiſe ſplit into breadths, and ty⯑ing the ſlips together, form their fiſhing-nets. Their common apparel, by a ſimple proceſs, is made from the leaves, and their finer, by an⯑other preparation, is made from the fibres. This plant is found both on high and low ground, in dry mould, and in deep bogs; but as it grows largeſt in the latter, that ſeems to be its proper ſoil.

[388]Our adventurers were of opinion, that no part of this country is peopled but the ſea coaſt; ſo that the number of inhabitants is greatly diſ⯑proportioned to the extent of country; and the ſettling a colony there, is recommended as an object worthy the notice of Great Britain.

The men of this country are as large as the largeſt Europeans. Their complexion is brown, but little more ſo than that of a Spaniard. They are full of fleſh, but not lazy and luxuri⯑ous; and are ſtout and well ſhaped The wo⯑men poſſeſs not that delicacy which diſtinguiſhes the European ladies; but their voice is ſingu⯑larly ſoft, which, as the dreſs of both ſexes is ſimilar, chiefly diſtinguiſhes them from the men. The men are active in a high degree; their hair is black, and their teeth are white and even. The features of both ſexes are regular; they en⯑joy perfect health, and live to a very advanced age. They are of the gentleſt diſpoſitions, and treat each other with the utmoſt kindneſs: but they are perpetually at war, every little diſtrict being at enmity with all the reſt. This is owing, moſt probably, to the want of food in ſufficient quantities, at certain times. They have nei⯑ther black cattle, ſheep, hogs, nor goats; ſo that their chief food being fiſh, and that not at all times to be obtained, they are in danger of dying through hunger. They have a few, and but a very few dogs; and when no fiſh is to be got, they have only vegetables, ſuch as yams [389] and potatoes, to feed on; and if, by any acci⯑dent, theſe fail them, their ſituation muſt be deplorable. This will account for their ſhock⯑ing cuſtom of eating the bodies which are ſlain in battle; for he who fights through mere hun⯑ger, will not ſcruple to eat the adverſary he has killed.

Notwithſtanding this cuſtom reſpecting their enemies, the circumſtances and temper of theſe people are in favour of thoſe who ſhall ſettle among them as a colony. They are in need of protection; and their diſpoſitions are ſo ſweet, that it would be an eaſy taſk to attach them by kindneſs. Civilization would be a bleſſing to people, whom nature has barely furniſhed with the neceſſaries of life.

The inhabitants of New Zealand are as mo⯑deſt and reſerved in their behaviour and con⯑verſation as the moſt polite nations of Europe. The women, indeed, were not dead to the ſofter impreſſions; but their mode of conſent was, in their idea, as harmleſs as the conſent to marriage with us, and equally binding for the ſtipulated time. If any of the Engliſh addreſſed one of their women, he was inform⯑ed, that the conſent of her friends muſt be ob⯑tained, which uſually followed, on his making a preſent. This done, he was obliged to treat his temporary wife at leaſt as delicately as we do in England. A gentleman who ſailed in the Endeavour having addreſſed a family of ſome [390] rank, received an anſwer, of which the follow⯑ing is an exact tranſlation.—‘"Any of theſe young ladies will think themſelves honoured by your addreſſes, but you muſt firſt make me a ſuitable preſent, and you muſt then come and ſleep with us on ſhore, for day⯑light muſt by no means be a witneſs of what paſſes between you."’

Theſe Indians anoint their hair with oil, melted from the fat of fiſh or birds. The poorer people uſe that which is rancid, ſo that they ſmell very diſagreeable; but thoſe of ſu⯑perior rank make uſe of that which is freſh. They wear combs, both of bone and wood, which is conſidered as an ornament when ſtuck upright in the hair. The men tie their hair in a bunch on the crown of the head, and adorn it with the feathers of birds, which they likewiſe ſometimes place on each ſide of the temples. They commonly wear ſhort beards. The hair of the women ſometimes flows over the ſhoul⯑ders, and ſometimes is cut ſhort. Both ſexes, but the men more than the women, mark their bodies with black ſtains, called Amoco. In general the women ſtain only the lips; but ſometimes mark other parts with black patches: the men, on the contrary, put on additional marks from year to year, ſo that thoſe who are very ancient are almoſt covered. Excluſive of the amoco, they mark themſelves with furrows. Theſe furrows make a hideous appearance, the [391] edges being indented, and the whole quite black. The ornaments of the face are drawn in the ſpiral form, with equal elegance and correct⯑neſs, both cheeks being marked exactly alike; while the paintings on their bodies reſemble fillagree work, and the foliage in old chaſed or⯑naments: but no two faces or bodies are paint⯑ed exactly after the ſame model. The people of New Zealand frequently left the breech free from theſe marks; which the inhabitants of Otaheite adorned beyond any other. Theſe In⯑dians likewiſe paint their bodies, by rubbing them with red oker, either dry, or mixed with oil.

Their dreſs is formed of the leaves of the flag ſplit into ſlips, which are interwoven, and made into a kind of matting, the ends, which are ſeven or eight inches in length, hanging out on the upper ſide. One piece of this matting being tied over the ſhoulders, reaches to the knees: the other piece being wrapped round the waiſt, falls almoſt to the ground. Theſe two pieces are faſtened to a ſtring, which, by means of a bodkin of bone, is paſſed through, and tacks them together. The men wear the lower garment only at particular times.

They have two kinds of cloth beſides the coarſe matting or ſhag abovementioned; one of which is as coarſe, but beyond all proportion ſtronger than Engliſh canvaſs; the other, which is formed of the fibres of a plant, drawn into [392] threads which croſs and bind each other, re⯑ſembles the matting on which we place our diſhes at table. They make borders of different colours to both theſe ſorts of cloth, reſembling girls ſamplars, and finiſhed with great neatneſs and elegance. What they conſider as the moſt ornamental part of their dreſs is the fur of dogs, which they cut into ſtripes, and ſew on different parts of their apparel. As dogs are not plenty, they diſpoſe theſe ſtripes with great oeconomy. They have a few dreſſes, ornamented with fea⯑thers; and one man was ſeen covered wholly with thoſe of the red parrot.

The women never tie their hair on the top of their head, nor adorn it with feathers; and are leſs anxious about dreſs than the men. Their lower garment is bound tight round them, ex⯑cept when they go a fiſhing, and then they are careful that the men ſhall not ſee them. It once happened that ſome of the ſhip's crew ſur⯑prized them in this ſituation, when ſome of them hid themſelves among the rocks, and the reſt kept their bodies under water till they had form⯑ed a girdle and apron of weeds; in a word, their whole behaviour manifeſted the moſt re⯑fined ideas of female modeſty.

The ears of both ſexes are bored, and the holes ſtretched ſo as to admit a man's finger. The ornaments of their ears are feathers, cloth, bones, and ſometimes bits of wood; a great many of them made uſe of the nails which [393] were given them by the Engliſh, for this purpoſe, and the women ſometimes adorned their ears with the white down of the albatroſs, which they ſpread before and behind the hole, in a large bunch. They likewiſe hung to their ears by ſtrings, chiſſels, bodkins, the teeth of dogs, and the teeth and nails of their deceaſed friends. The arms and ancles of the women are adorned with ſhells and bones, or any thing elſe through which they can paſs a ſtring. The men wear a piece of green talc, or whalebone, with the reſemblance of a man carved on it, hanging to a ſtring round the neck. They ſaw one man who had the griſtle of his noſe perforated, and a feather being paſſed through it, projected over each cheek.

Theſe people ſhew leſs ingenuity in the ſtruc⯑ture of their houſes, than in any thing elſe be⯑longing to them; they are from ſixteen to twen⯑ty-four feet long, ten or twelve wide, and ſix or eight in height. The frame is of ſlight ſticks of wood, and the walls and roof are made of dry graſs pretty firmly compacted. Some of them are lined with the bark of trees, and the ridge of the houſe is formed by a pole, which runs from one end to the other. The door is only high enough to admit a perſon crawling on hands and knees; and the roof is ſtoping. There is a ſquare hole near the door, ſerving both for window and chimney, near which is the fire-place. A plank is placed near [394] the door, adorned with a ſort of carving, and this they conſider as an ornamental piece of fur⯑niture. The ſide walls and roof projecting two or three feet beyond the walls at each end, form a ſort of portico, where benches are placed to ſit on. The fire is made in the mid⯑dle of a hollow ſquare in the floor, which is en⯑cloſed with wood or ſtone. They ſleep near the walls, where the ground is covered with ſtraw for their beds.

Some who can afford it, and whoſe families are large, have three or four houſes, encloſed within a court yard. Their cloaths, arms, feathers, ſome ill-made tools, and a cheſt, in which all theſe are depoſited, form all the fur⯑niture of the inſide of the houſe. Their ham⯑mers to beat fern-root, gourds to hold water, and baſkets to contain proviſions, are placed without the houſe.

One houſe was found near forty feet long, twenty wide, and fourteen high. Its ſides were adorned with carved planks of workmanſhip ſuperior to the reſt; but the building appeared to have been left unfiniſhed.

Though the people ſleep warm enough at home, they ſeem to deſpiſe the inclemency of the weather, when they go in ſearch of fiſh or fern-roots. Sometimes, indeed, they place a ſmall defence to windward; but frequently ſleep under buſhes, with their arms placed round them, without the leaſt ſhelter whatever.

[395]Beſides the fern-root, which ſerves them for bread, they feed on albatroſſes, penguins, and ſome other birds. Whatever they eat is either roaſted or baked, as they have no veſſel in which water can be boiled.

They ſaw no plantations of coccos, potatoes and yams, to the ſouthward, though there were many in the northern parts.—The natives drink no other liquor than water, and enjoy perfect and uninterrupted health.—When wounded in battle, the wound heals in a very ſhort time without the application of medicine; and the very old people carry no other marks of decay about them than the loſs of their hair and teeth, and a failure of their muſcular ſtrength:—but enjoy an equal ſhare of health and chearful⯑neſs with the youngeſt.—Such are the happy effects of exerciſe and temperance!

The canoes of this country are not unlike the whale-boats of New England, being long and narrow. The larger ſort ſeem to be built for war, and will hold from thirty to one hun⯑dred men. One of theſe at Tolaga meaſured near ſeventy feet in length, ſix in width, and four in depth. It was ſharp at the bottom, and conſiſted of three lengths, about two or three inches thick, and tied firmly together with ſtrong plaiting: each ſide was formed of one entire plank, about twelve inches broad, and about an inch and a half thick, which were fitted to the bottom part with equal ſtrength and inge⯑nuity. [396] Several thwarts were laid from one ſide to the other, to which they were ſecurely faſten⯑ed, in order to ſtrengthen the canoes.

Some few of their canoes, at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, are all made entirely of one trunk of wood, which is made hollow by fire: but by far the greater part are built after the plan above deſcribed. The ſmaller boats, which are uſed chiefly in fiſhing, are adorned at head and ſtern with the figure of a man, the eyes of which are compoſed of the white ſhells of ſea-ears, a tongue of enormous ſize is thruſt out of the mouth, and the whole face is a picture of the moſt abſolute deformity. The grander canoes, which are intended for war, are ornamented with open work, and covered with fringes of black feathers, which gives the whole an air of perfect elegance: the ſide boards, which are carved in a rude man⯑ner, are embelliſhed with tufts of white fea⯑thers.

Theſe veſſels are rowed with a kind of pad⯑dles, between five and ſix feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval, gradually de⯑creaſing till it reaches the handle; and the ve⯑locity with which they row with theſe paddles is really ſurpriſing. Their ſails are compoſed of a kind of mat or netting, which is extended between two upright poles, one of which is fixed on each ſide. Two ropes, faſtened to the top of each pole, ſerve inſtead of ſheets.

[397] The veſſels are ſteered by two men, having each a paddle, and ſitting in the ſtern; but they can only ſail before the wind, in which di⯑rection they move with conſiderable ſwiftneſs.

Theſe Indians uſe axes, adzes and chiſſels, with which laſt they likewiſe bore holes. The chiſſels are made of jaſper, or of the bone of a man's arm; and their axes and adzes of a hard black ſtone. They uſe their ſmall jaſper tools till they are blunted, and then throw them away, having no inſtrument to ſharpen them with. The Indians at Tolaga having been pre⯑ſented with a piece of glaſs, drilled a hole through it, and hung it round the neck. A ſmall bit of jaſper is thought to have been the tool they uſed in drilling it.

Their tillage of the ground is excellent, ow⯑ing to the neceſſity they are under of cultivat⯑ing or running the riſk of ſtarving. At Te⯑gadoo their crops were juſt put into the ground, and the ſurface of the field was as ſmooth as a garden, the roots were ranged in regular lines, and to every root there remained a hillock. A long narrow ſtake, ſharpened to an edge at bot⯑tom, with a piece fixed acroſs a little above it, for the convenience of driving it into the ground with the foot, ſupplies the place both of plough and ſpade. The ſoil being light, their work is not very laborious, and with this inſtrument alone they will turn up ground of ſix or ſeven acres in extent.

[398]The ſeine, the large net which has been al⯑ready noticed, is produced by the united la⯑bour, and is probably the joint property of a whole town. Their fiſh-hooks are of ſhell or bone; and they have baſkets of wicker-work to hold the fiſh.

Their warlike weapons are ſpears, darts, bat⯑tle-axes, and the patoo-patoo. The ſpear, which is pointed at each end, is about ſixteen feet in length, and they hold it in the middle, ſo that it is difficult to parry a puſh from it. Whether they fight in boats or on ſhore, the battle is hand to hand, ſo that they muſt make bloody work of it. They truſt chiefly in the patoo patoo, which is faſtened to their wriſts by means of a ſtrong ſtrap, that it may not be wrenched out of their hand. Theſe are worn in the girdles of people of a ſuperior rank, as a military ornament. They have a kind of ſtaff of diſtinction, which is carried by the prin⯑cipal warriors. It is formed of a whale's rib, is quite white, and adorned with carvings, fea⯑thers, and the hair of their dogs; and they ſometimes carried a ſtick ſix feet long, inlaid with ſhells, and otherwiſe adorned like the mi⯑litary ſtaff. This honourable mark of diſtinc⯑tion was commonly borne by the old men.

When they came to attack the Engliſh, there was uſually one or more thus diſtinguiſhed in each canoe. It was their cuſtom to ſtop at a⯑bout fifty or ſixty yards diſtance from the ſhip,

[399] when the commanding officer, ariſing from his ſeat, and putting on a garment of dog's ſkin, uſed to direct them how to proceed. When they were too far from the ſhip to reach it either with ſtone or lance, they cried out, Haromai, haromai, harre uta a patoo-patoo oge.—‘"Come to us, come on ſhore, and we will kill you all with our patoo-patoos."’ During theſe menaces they approached the ſhip, till they came along-ſide, talking peaceably at intervals, and anſwering whatever queſtions they were aſk⯑ed. Then again their threats were renewed, till, imagining the ſailors were afraid of them, they began the war-ſong and dance—an engagement always followed, and ſometimes continued till the firing of ſmall ſhot repulſed them; at others, only till they had ſatiated their vengeance by throwing a few ſtones on board the ſhip.

In the war-dance, their motions are nume⯑rous, their limbs are diſtorted, and their faces are agitated. Their tongue hangs out of their mouths to a vaſt length, and their eye-lids are drawn ſo as to form a circle round the eye; they ſhake their darts, brandiſh their ſpears, and wave their patoo-patoos to and fro in the air. They accompany this dance with a ſong, which is ſung in concert; every ſtrain ending with a loud and deep ſigh. There is an activity and vigour in their dancing, which is truly admi⯑rable; and their idea of keeping time in muſic is ſuch, that ſixty or eighty paddles will ſtrike [400] at once againſt the ſides of their boats, and make only one report.

They ſometimes ſing, in times of peace, in a manner reſembling the war-ſong; but then they do not dance with it. The women, whoſe voices are exceeding ſoft and harmonious, like⯑wiſe ſing in a melodious, but mournful manner; and their ſongs appear as if ſung in parts. Their inſtruments of muſick are, a ſhell, from which they produce a ſound, reſembling that made by a common horn; and a wooden pipe, not ſuperior in muſical ſound to a child's whiſtle.

Theſe people fortify all their hippahs, or towns, of which there are ſeveral between the bay of Plenty and queen Charlotte's ſound. In theſe the inhabitants of thoſe parts con⯑ſtantly reſide; but near Tolaga, Tegadoo, Hawk's bay, and Poverty bay, there are no towns, only ſingle houſes at a conſiderable diſtance apart. On the ſides of the hills were erected long ſtages, ſupplied with darts and ſtones, which were thought to be retreats in time of battle, and on which, from their ele⯑vated ſituation, they can combat the enemy with theſe weapons to great advantage. In theſe repoſitories they ſtore their dried fiſh and fern-roots. The inhabitants of this part of the country were all ſubject to Teratu, who reſided near the bay of Plenty; and to their being thus united under one Chief, they owed a ſecurity unknown to the inhabitants of the other parts [401] of the country. There were ſeveral inferior governors in Teratus's dominions, to whom the moſt implicit obedience was paid. One of the inhabitants having robbed the Engliſh, complaint was made to a Chief, who chaſtiſed him by kicking and ſtriking him; while the thief bore his puniſhment with unreſiſting hu⯑mility.

The inhabitants of the ſouthern parts ap⯑peared to be co-partners in their fiſhing-nets and fine apparel. The latter, which probably were obtained in war, were kept in a little hut, deſtined for that uſe, in the centre of the town, and the ſeveral parts of the nets, being made by different families, were afterwards joined together for the common uſe. The gentlemen imagined, that the employment of the men con⯑ſiſted in cultivating the ground, making nets, catching birds, and fiſhing; while the women were engaged in weaving cloth, procuring fern-roots, and ſhell fiſh, and dreſſing food.

With regard to religion, they acknowledge one ſuperior being, and ſeveral ſubordinate. Their mode of worſhip could not be learned, nor was any place proper for that purpoſe ſeen. There was indeed a ſmall ſquare area, encom⯑paſſed with ſtones, in the middle of which hung a baſket of fern-roots on one of their ſpades. This they ſaid was offered to the gods, in the hope of a plentiful crop of proviſions.

[402]The inhabitants of the ſouthern diſtrict ſaid, they diſpoſed of their dead by throwing them into the ſea; but thoſe of the north ſaid, they buried them in the ground: our adventurers, however, ſaw not the leaſt ſign of any grave or monument; but the body of almoſt every in⯑habitant bore the marks of wounds which they had given themſelves, in token of grief for the loſs of their friends and relations. Some of theſe ſcars were newly made, which is a proof that their friends had died while the ſhip's crew were there; yet no one ſaw any thing like a fu⯑neral, as theſe iſlanders conceal every thing reſ⯑pecting the dead, with the utmoſt caution.

A great ſimilitude was obſerved between the dreſs, furniture, boats and nets of the New Zealanders, and thoſe of the inhabitants of the South-ſea iſlands, which furniſhed a ſtrong proof, that the common anceſtors of both were na⯑tives of the ſame country. Indeed the inha⯑bitants of theſe different places have a tradition, that their anceſtors migrated from another country many ages ſince; and they both agree, that this country was called HEAWIGE. But perhaps a yet ſtronger proof that their origin was the ſame, will ariſe from the ſimilitude of their language, of which the following is a ſpecimen.

[403]

They ſailed from Cape Farewell on the 31ſt of March 1770, and had fine weather and a fair wind till the 9th of April, when they ſaw a tro⯑pic bird, in the latitude of 38 degrees 29 mi⯑nutes ſouth, a ſight very unuſual in ſo high a la⯑titude. On the 15th they ſaw an egg-bird and a gannet; and on the day following a ſmall land-bird perched on the rigging, from which they concluded they were near land; but they found no ground with 120 fathom. On the 18th, in the morning, they ſaw a pintado-bird, and ſome [404] Port Egmont hens, an infallible ſign that land was not very diſtant At ſix o'clock in the morning of the 19th they diſcovered land four or five leagues diſtant; the ſouthermoſt part of which was called POINT HICKS, in compliment to Mr. Hicks, the firſt Lieutenant, who made the diſcovery of it. At noon they diſcovered another point of the ſame land, riſing in a round hillock, extremely like the Ram-Head at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, for which reaſon Captain Cook gave it the ſame name. What they had yet ſeen of the land was low and even, and the inland parts were green, and covered with wood. They now ſaw three water⯑ſpouts at the ſame time, one of which continued a quarter of an hour. At ſix in the evening the northermoſt point on the main land, which was diſtant about two leagues, was named CAPE HOWE. On the following day they had a diſ⯑tant view of the country, which was in general covered with wood, and interſperſed with ſeve⯑ral ſmall lawns. It appeared to be inhabited, as ſmoke was ſeen in ſeveral places. At four o'clock the next morning they ſaw a high moun⯑tain, which, from its ſhape, they called MOUNT DROMEDARY, under which there is a point, which received the name of POINT DROMEDA⯑RY. In the evening they were oppoſite a point of land which roſe perpendicularly, and was called POINT UPRIGHT. On Sunday the 22d they were ſo near the ſhore, as to ſee ſeveral of [405] the inhabitants on the coaſt, who were of a very dark complexion, if not perfect negroes. At noon they ſaw a remarkably peaked hill, to which the Captain gave the name of the PIGE⯑ON-HOUSE, from its reſemblance to ſuch a build⯑ing. The trees on this iſland were both tall and large; but they ſaw no place fit to give ſhelter even to a boat.

The Captain gave the name of CAPE GEORGE to a point of land which he diſcovered on St. George's day: about two leagues to the north of which the ſea formed a bay, which, from its ſhape, was called LONG NOSE; eight leagues from which lies RED-POINT, ſo called from the colour of the ſoil in its neighbourhood. On the 27th they ſaw ſeveral of the inhabitants walking along the ſhore, four of them carry⯑ing a canoe on their ſhoulders: but as they did not attempt coming off to the ſhip, the Cap⯑tain took Meſſrs. Banks and Solander and Tu⯑pia in the yawl, and employed four men to row them to that part of the ſhore where the natives appeared; near which four ſmall canoes laid cloſe in land. The Indians ſat on the rocks till the yawl was within a quarter of a mile of the ſhore, and then ran away into the woods. The ſurf beating violently on the beach, prevented the boat from landing; the gentlemen were therefore obliged to make what obſervations they could at a diſtance. The canoes reſembled the ſmaller ſort of thoſe of New Zealand. They [406] ſaw, with longing eyes, a great number of cab⯑bage-trees on ſhore: the other trees were of the palm-kind, and there was no underwood among them.

At five in the evening they returned to the ſhip, and a light breeze ſpringing up, they ſail⯑ed to the northward, where they diſcovered ſe⯑veral people on ſhore round a fire, who, on their approach, retired to an eminence; ſoon after which two canoes arrived on the ſhore, and four men, who came in them, joined the others. The pinnace having been ſent a head to ſound, arrived near the ſpot where the Indians had ſta⯑tioned themſelves, on which one of them hid himſelf among the rocks near the landing-place, and the others retreated farther up the hill. The pinnace keeping along ſhore, the Indians walk⯑ed nearly in a line with her. They were armed with long pikes, and a weapon reſembling a cymeter, and, by various ſigns and words, in⯑vited the boat's crew to land. Thoſe who did not follow the boat, having obſerved the approach of the ſhip, brandiſhed their wea⯑pons, and threw themſelves into threatening attitudes. The bodies, thighs and legs of two of theſe, were painted with white ſtreaks, and their faces were almoſt covered with a white powder. They talked to each other with great emotion, and each of them held a kind of cy⯑meter in his hand.

[407]The ſhip having come to an anchor, they obſerved a few huts, in which were ſome of the natives; and ſaw ſome canoes, in each of which was a man buſily employed in ſtriking fiſh with a kind of ſpear. They had anchored oppoſite a village of about eight houſes, and obſerved an old woman and three children come out of a wood, laden with fuel for a fire: they were met by three ſmaller children, all of whom, as well as the woman, were quite naked. The old woman frequently looked at the ſhip with the utmoſt indifference, and, as ſoon as ſhe had made a fire, the fiſhermen brought their canoes on ſhore, and they ſet about dreſſing their din⯑ner with as much compoſure, as if a ſhip had been no extraordinary ſight.

Having formed a deſign of landing, they manned the boats, and took Tupia with them; and they had no ſooner come near the ſhore, than two men advanced, as if to diſpute their ſetting foot on land. They were each of them armed with different weapons. They called out aloud in a harſh tone, warra warra wai, the meaning of which Tupia did not underſtand. The Captain threw them beads, nails and other trifles, which they took up, and ſeemed to be delighted with. He then made ſigns that he wanted water, and uſed every poſſible means to convince them that no injury was intended. They now made ſigns to the boat's crew to land, on which they put the boat in; but they [408] had no ſooner done ſo, than the two Indians came again to oppoſe them. A muſquet was now fired between them, on the report of which one of them dropped a bundle of lances, which he inſtantly ſnatched up again in great haſte. One of them then threw a ſtone at the boat, on which the Captain ordered a muſket loaded with ſmall ſhot to be fired, which wounding the eldeſt of them on the legs, he retired haſtily to one of their houſes, which ſtood at ſome little diſtance. The people in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound which this man had received would put an end to the con⯑teſt; in this, however, they were miſtaken, for he immediately returned with a kind of ſhield, of an oval figure, painted white in the middle, with two holes in it to ſee through. They now advanced with great intrepidity, and both diſcharged their lances at the boat's crew, but did not wound any of them. Another muſket was now fired at them, on which they threw another lance, and then took to their heels. The crew now went up to the huts, in one of which they found the children, who had ſecreted themſelves behind ſome bark. They looked at them, but left them without their knowing they had been ſeen; and having thrown ſome pieces of cloth, ribbons, beads, and other things into the hut, they took ſeveral of their lan⯑ces, and reimbarked in the boat. The canoes on this coaſt were about thirteen feet in length, [409] each made of the bark of a ſingle tree, tied up at the ends, and kept open in the middle by means of ſticks placed acroſs them; their pad⯑dles are very ſmall, and they uſe two at a time.

They now ſailed to the north point of the bay, where they found a plenty of freſh water. On taking a view of the hut where they had ſeen the children, they had the mortification to find that every Indian was fled, and that they had left all the preſents behind them. The Captain now went in the pinnace to inſpect the bay, and ſaw ſeveral of the natives, who all fled as he approached them. Some men having been ſent to get wood and water, they no ſooner, came on board to dinner, than the natives came down to the place, and examined the caſks with great attention, but did not offer to remove them. When the people were on ſhore in the afternoon, about twenty of the natives, all armed, advanced within a trifling diſtance of them, and then ſtopped, while two of their number approached ſtill nearer. Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer, on ſhore, went to⯑wards them, with preſents in his hands, and endeavoured, by every poſſible means, to aſſure them of his friendly intentions, but to no pur⯑poſe, for they retired before he came up to them. In the evening Meſſrs. Banks and So⯑lander went with the Captain to a cove north of the bay, where they catched between three and four hundred weight of fiſh, in four hauls.

[410]On Monday the 30th the natives came down to the huts before it was light, and were re⯑peatedly heard to ſhout very loud; and ſoon af⯑ter day-break they were ſeen on the beach; but quickly retired about a mile, and kindled ſe⯑veral fires in the woods. This day ſome of the ſhip's crew being employed in cutting graſs, at a diſtance from the main body of thoſe on ſhore, a party of Indians made towards them; on which the graſs-cutters retreated to the main body, while the natives purſued them; but ſtopping within fifty or ſixty yards of them, they ſhouted ſeveral times, and retired to the woods. In the evening they behaved exactly in the ſame manner, when the Captain followed them alone and unarmed for ſome time, but they ſtill retired as he approached.

On Tueſday May the firſt, the ſouth point of the bay was named SUTHERLAND POINT, one of the ſeamen, of the name of Sutherland, hav⯑ing died that day, and been buried on ſhore. This day Meſſrs. Banks, Solander, the Captain and a few other gentlemen, went on ſhore, and left more preſents in the huts, ſuch as looking-glaſſes, combs, &c. but the former ones had not been taken away.—Making an excurſion about the country, they found it agreeably va⯑riegated with wood and lawn. The trees being ſtrait and tall, and without underwood, the country might be cultivated without cutting down one of them. The graſs grows in large [411] tufts, almoſt cloſe to each other, and there is a great plenty of it. In this excurſion they met with many places where the inhabitants had ſlept without ſhelter; but they ſaw only one man, who ran away the moment he beheld them. They left more preſents, in their huts, and at their ſleeping-places, in hopes of producing a friendly intercourſe. They ſaw the dung of an animal which fed on graſs, and traced the foot⯑ſteps of another, which had claws like a dog, and was probably about the ſize of a wolf: they diſcovered the track of a ſmall animal, whoſe foot was like that of a pole-cat; and ſaw one animal alive, about the ſize of a rabbit. They found ſome wood which had been felled, and the bark ſtripped off by the natives; and ſaw ſeveral growing trees, in which ſteps had been cut, for the convenience of aſcending them. The trees abounded with a vaſt variety of beau⯑tiful birds, among which were cockatoos, par⯑roquets and loriquets, which flew in large flocks.

The ſecond Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, having been with a boat to dredge for oyſters, ſaw ſome Indians, who made ſigns for him to come on ſhore, which he declined. Having finiſhed his buſineſs, he ſent the boat away, and went by land with a Midſhipman, to join the party that was getting water. In their way they met with more than twenty of the natives, who follow⯑ed them ſo cloſe, as to come within a few yards [412] of them. Mr. Gore ſtopped and faced them; on which the Indians ſtopped alſo, and when he proceeded again they followed him; but they did not attack him, though they had each man his lance. The Indians coming in ſight of the Waterers, ſtood ſtill at the diſtance of a quarter of a mile, while Mr. Gore and his com⯑panion reached their ſhipmates in ſafety. Two or three of the Waterers now advanced towards the Indians; but obſerving they did not retire, they very imprudently turned about, and re⯑treated haſtily; this apparent cowardice inſpi⯑rited the ſavages, who diſcharged four lances at the fugitives, which flying beyond them, they eſcaped unhurt. They now ſtopped to pick up the lances, on which the Indians retired in their turn. At this inſtant the Captain came up, with Meſſrs. Banks, Solander, and Tupia; and advancing, made ſigns of friendſhip; but the poor natives would not wait their coming up to them.

On the following day they again went on ſhore, where many plants were collected by Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks. They ſaw ſeveral parties of the Indians, who all ran away on their approach. Tupia having learnt to ſhoot, frequently ſtrayed alone to ſhoot parrots; and the Indians conſtantly fled from him with as much precipitation as from the Engliſh. On the 3d of May, fourteen or fifteen Indians, in the ſame number of canoes, were engaged in [413] ſtriking fiſh within half a mile of the watering-place. At this time a party of the ſhip's crew were ſhooting near the fiſhermen, one of whom Mr. Banks obſerved to haul up his canoe on the beach, and approach the people who were ſhoot⯑ing. He watched their motions, unobſerved by them, for more than a quarter of an hour, then put off his boat, and returned to his fiſhing.

At this time the Captain, with Dr. Solander and another gentleman, went to the head of the bay to try to form ſome connection with the Indians. On their firſt landing they found ſe⯑veral Indians on ſhore, who immediately re⯑treated to their canoes, and rowed off. They went up the country, where they found the ſoil to be a deep black mould, which appeared to be calculated for the production of any kind of grain. They ſaw ſome of the fineſt meadows that were ever beheld, and met with a few rocky places, the ſtone of which is ſandy, and ſeemed to be admirably adapted for building. In the woods they found a tree bearing cherries, if ſhape and colour may entitle them to that name, the juice of which was agreeably tart. They now returned to their boat, and ſeeing a fire at a diſtance, rowed towards it, but the In⯑dians fled on their approach. Near the beach they found ſeven canoes, and as many fires, from whence they judged that each fiſherman had dreſſed his own dinner. There were oyſters lying on the ſpot, and ſome muſcles roaſting [414] on the fire. They ate of theſe fiſh, and left them ſome beads and other trifles in return. They now returned to the ſhip; and in the even⯑ing Mr. Banks went out with his gun, and ſaw a great number of quails, ſome of which he ſhot, and they proved to be the ſame kind as thoſe of England.

On the following day a Midſhipman having ſtrayed from his companions, came ſuddenly on an old man and woman, and ſome children, who were ſitting naked under a tree together. They ſeemed afraid of him, but did not run away. The man wore a long beard, and both him and the woman were grey-headed; but the woman's hair was cut ſhort. This day, like⯑wiſe, two of another party met with ſix Indians on the border of a wood, one of whom calling out very loud, a lance was thrown from the wood, which narrowly miſſed them. The Indians now ran off; and, on looking round, they ſaw a youth deſcend from a tree, who had doubtleſs been placed there for the purpoſe of throwing the lance at them. This day the Captain went up the country on the north-ſide of the bay, which he found to reſemble the moory grounds of England; but the land was thinly covered with plants about ſixteen inches high The hills riſe gradually behind each o⯑ther to a great diſtance, and between them is marſhy ground. Thoſe who had been ſent out to fiſh this day met with great ſucceſs; and the [415] ſecond Lieutenant ſtruck a fiſh called the ſting⯑ray, which weighed near two hundred and fifty pounds. The next morning a fiſh of the ſame kind was catched, which weighed three hun⯑dred and fifty pounds.

The name of BOTANY BAY was given to this place, from the large number of plants collected by Meſſrs. Banks and Solander. This country produces two kinds of wood which may be deemed timber; one of which is tall and ſtrait, like the pine, and the other is hard, heavy, and dark-coloured, like lignum vitae: it yields a red gum, like ſanguis draconis, and bears ſome reſemblance to an Engliſh oak. There are mangroves in abundance, ſeveral kinds of palm, and a few ſhrubs. Among other kinds of birds, crows were found here, exactly like thoſe of England. There is great plenty of water-fowl among the flats of ſand and mud; one of which is ſhaped like a pelican, is larger than a ſwan, and has black and white feathers. Theſe banks of mud abound with cockles, muſcles, oyſters, and other ſhell-fiſh, which greatly contribute towards the ſupport of the natives, who ſometimes dreſs them on ſhore, and at other times in their canoes. They likewiſe catch many other ſorts of fiſh with hook and line

While captain Cook remained in the harbour, the Engliſh colours were diſplayed on ſhore, daily, and the name of the ſhip, with the date [416] of the year, was carved on a tree near the place where they took in their water.

They ſailed from BOTANY BAY on the 6th of May, 1770; at noon were off a harbour which they called PORT JACKSON, and in the evening, near a bay, to which they gave the name of BROKEN BAY. The next day, at noon, the northermoſt land in ſight projected ſo as to juſ⯑tify the calling it CAPE THREE POINTS. On Wedneſday the 9th, they ſaw two exceeding beautiful rainbows, the colours of which were ſtrong and lively; and thoſe of the inner one ſo bright, as to reflect its ſhadow on the water. They made a complete ſemicircle, and the ſpace between them was much darker than the reſt of the ſky. On Thurſday they paſſed a low rocky point, which was named POINT STE⯑PHENS, near which was an inlet, denominated PORT STEPHENS. Next day they ſaw ſmoke in ſeveral places on the ſhore; and in the evening diſcovered three remarkably high hills, near each other, which the Captain named the THREE BROTHERS.

On Sunday the 13th they ſaw the ſmoke of many fires on a point of land, which was there⯑fore called SMOKEY CAPE. As they proceeded northward from BOTANY BAY, the land appear⯑ed high and well covered with wood. On Tueſday morning, by the aſſiſtance of their glaſſes, they diſcovered about a ſcore of the In⯑dians, each loaded with a bundle, which they [417] imagined to be palm-leaves, to thatch their houſes. They traced them for more than an hour, dur⯑ing which time they took not the leaſt notice of the ſhip; at length they left the beach, and were loſt behind a hill, which they gained by a gentle aſcent.—At noon the Captain diſcovered a high point of land, which he called CAPE BYRON. In the evening they diſcovered break⯑ers at a conſiderable diſtance from the ſhore; ſo that they were obliged to tack, and get into deeper water; which having done, they lay with the head of the veſſel to the land till the next morning, when they were aſtoniſhed to find themſelves farther to the ſouthward than they had been the preceding evening, notwithſtand⯑ing they had a ſoutherly wind all night. In the morning they paſſed the breakers, near a peak⯑ed mountain, which was named MOUNT WARN⯑ING; and the point off which they lay was called POINT DANGER. The next day they ſaw more breakers, near a point which was diſtinguiſhed by the name of POINT LOOK-OUT, to the north of which lies a bay, which Captain Cook call⯑ed MORETON'S BAY; and the north point of which he named CAPE MORETON. Near this place are three hills, which were called the GLASS HOUSES, from the very ſtrong reſem⯑blance they bore to ſuch buildings.

On the 18th they deſcried a point ſo une⯑qual, that it looks like two ſmall iſlands lying under the land; and it was therefore called [418] DOUBLE ISLAND POINT. At noon, by the help of glaſſes, they diſcovered ſome ſands, which lay in ſpots of ſeveral acres, which they obſerv⯑ed were moveable, and that ſome of them had not been long in their preſent ſituation, as they ſaw trees half buried, and the tops of others ſtill green; likewiſe the naked trunks of ſome that had been deſtroyed by the ſand. At this time two beautiful water-ſnakes ſwam by the ſhip, which ſeemed to be diſtinguiſhed from land-ſnakes, only by their broad and flat tails, which it was thought were uſeful to them in ſwimming. On the 19th they ſailed by a point of land, on which a large number of the Indians were aſſembled, from whence it was called INDIAN HEAD. They ſoon afterwards ſaw many more of the natives, and obſerved ſmoke in the day-time, and fires by night. The next day they ſaw a point, which was named SANDY CAPE, from two large tracts of white ſand that were on it. They next paſſed a ſhoal which was called BREAK SEA SPIT, becauſe they had now ſmooth water, after having long encountered a high ſea. They had, for ſome days paſt, ſeen the ſea-birds, called boobies, none of which they had met with before; and which, from half an hour before ſun-riſing, to half an hour after, were continually paſſing the ſhip in large flights: from which it was conjectured, that there was a river or inlet of ſhallow water to the ſouthward, where they [419] went to feed in the day, returning in the even⯑ing to ſome iſlands to the northward. In ho⯑nour of Captain Hervey, this bay was called HERVEY'S BAY.

On the 22d, by the help of their glaſſes, they diſcovered that the land was covered with palm-nut trees, none of which they had ſeen ſince they quitted the iſlands within the tro⯑pic. The next morning early the Captain took a party of men, and being attended by Tupia, and the ſeveral gentlemen on board, went on ſhore to examine the country. They landed a little within the point of a bay, which led into a large lagoon, by the ſides of which grows the true mangrove, as it alſo does on ſome bogs, and ſwamps of ſalt-water which they diſcovered. There were many neſts of a ſingular kind of ant, as green as graſs, in the branches of theſe mangroves. When the branches were diſturbed they came forth in great num⯑bers, and bit the diſturber moſt ſeverely. Theſe trees likewiſe afforded ſhelter for immenſe num⯑bers of green caterpillars, their bodies were co⯑vered with hairs, which, on the touch, gave a pain ſimilar to the ſting of a nettle, but much more acute. Theſe inſects ranged themſelves ſide by ſide on the leaves, thirty or forty toge⯑ther, in a very regular manner. They ſaw, a⯑mong the ſand banks, many birds larger than ſwans, which they imagined were pelicans; and they ſhot a kind of buſtard, which weighed ſe⯑venten [420] pounds. This bird proved very delicate food, and gave name to the place, which was called BUSTARD-BAY. They likewiſe ſhot a duck of a moſt beautiful plumage, with a white beak They found vaſt numbers of oyſters of various ſorts, and, among the reſt, ſome ham⯑mer oyſters of a curious kind. While the gen⯑tlemen were in the woods, ſeveral of the na⯑tives came down and took a ſurvey of the ſhip, and then departed. The gentlemen on ſhore ſaw fires in many places, and repairing to one of them, they found about a dozen ſmall fires burning near each other; but the people were gone, and had left ſome ſhells and bones of fiſh they had juſt eaten. They likewiſe ſaw ſeveral pieces of ſoft bark, about the length and breadth of a man, which they judged had been uſed as beds. This kind of encampment was in a thicket well defended from the wind; and as the place was much trodden, and there was no appearance of a houſe, it was imagined that they ſpent their nights, as well as days, in the open air: even Tupia ſhook his head, and ex⯑claimed, Taata Enos! ‘"Poor wretches!"’ They ſailed the next morning, and on the day follow⯑ing were a-breaſt of a point, which lying imme⯑diately under the tropic, the Captain called CAPE CAPRICORN, on the weſt ſide of which they ſaw an amazing number of large birds re⯑ſembling the pelican, ſome of which were near five feet high.

[421]On the 26th they ſtood between a range of almoſt barren iſlands, and the main land, which is mountainous. They had here very ſhallow water, and anchored in ſixteen feet, which was not two feet more than the ſhip drew. Mr. Banks tried to fiſh from the cabin windows, but the water was too ſhallow. The ground indeed was covered with crabs, which greedily ſeized the bait, and held it till they were above wa⯑ter. Theſe crabs were of two kinds, one of a very fine blue, with a white belly, and the other marked with blue on the joints, and having three remarkable brown ſpots on the back. The Captain having ſent ſome men in a boat a-head to ſound, they returned with an account, that there was not water enough for the ſhip to paſs through, upon which they tacked about and ſtood back again. In the morning they ſailed to the northward, and to the northermoſt point of land the Captain gave the name of CAPE MANIFOLD, from the number of high hills appearing above it. Between this cape and the ſhore is a bay called KEPPEL'S BAY, and ſome iſlands bearing the name of the ſame gen⯑tleman. On the 28th, being determined to keep the main land cloſe aboard, which continued to tend away to the weſt, they got among another cluſter of iſlands; they were here again greatly alarmed, having on a ſudden but three fathom water, in a ripling tide; they immediately put the ſhip about, and hoiſted out the boats in [422] ſearch of deeper water; after which they ſtood to the weſt with an eaſy ſail, and in the evening, came to the entrance of a bay. On the 29th, in the morning, the maſter was ſent with two boats to ſound the bay; and the ſhip was no ſooner under ſail, than the boats made the ſig⯑nal, and the ſhip accordingly came to an an⯑chor. As they obſerved the tide to flow and ebb conſiderably, they imagined this bay to be the entrance of a river which ran up the coun⯑try: in this place therefore the Captain intend⯑ed to lay the ſhip a-ſhore and clean her bottom; and accordingly landed, in ſearch of a proper place for the purpoſe.

In this excurſion Meſſrs. Banks and Solander attended Captain Cook. They found walking extremely incommodious, the ground being co⯑vered with graſs, the ſeeds of which were ſharp, and bearded, ſo that they were continually ſticking in their cloaths, whence they worked forwards to the fleſh, by means of the beard. They were likewiſe tormented with the perpe⯑tual ſtinging of muſquetos. Several places were found convenient to lay the ſhip a-ſhore; but they could meet with no freſh water. In the interior parts of the country they found gum-trees, on the branches of which were white ants neſts formed of clay, as big as a buſhel. On another tree they found black ants, which formed their lodging in the body of it, after they had eaten away the pith; yet the trees were [423] in a flouriſhing condition. They found butter⯑flies in ſuch incredible numbers, that whatever way they looked, many thouſands were to be ſeen in the air; while every bough and twig was covered with multitudes. They likewiſe diſcovered on dry ground, where it was ſup⯑poſed to have been left by the tide, a fiſh about the ſize of a minnow, having two ſtrong breaſt fins, with which it leaped away as nimbly as a frog: it did not appear to be weakened by be⯑ing out of water, nor even to prefer that ele⯑ment to the land; for when ſeen in the water it leaped on ſhore, and purſued its way. It was likewiſe remarked, that where there were ſmall ſtones projecting above the water, it choſe ra⯑ther to leap from one ſtone to another, than to ſwim through the water.

On the 30th the Captain went aſhore very early, and having gained the ſummit of a hill, took a ſurvey of the coaſt, and adjacent iſlands; which being done, he accompanied Dr. Solan⯑der up an inlet, which had been diſcovered the preceding day; but the weather proving unfa⯑vourable, they returned early to the ſhip, hav⯑ing ſeen only two Indians, who followed the boat a conſiderable way along the ſhore; but the tide running ſtrong, they did not think it prudent to wait for them. This day Mr. Banks went with a party on ſhore, and having met with a piece of ſwampy ground, covered with mangroves, they reſolved to paſs it, which [424] they did, up to the knees in mud, and ſome⯑times crawling on their hands, when they had ſlipt between the branches of trees, which were interwoven on the ſurface of the ſwamp. Hav⯑ing performed this diſagreeable taſk, they ar⯑rived at a ſpot where the natives appeared to have ſlept on the graſs, and where there were the remains of a fiſh ſupper, which had been roaſted by four ſmall fires. The ſecond Lieute⯑nant, at another place, ſaw the track of a large animal, near a gully of water: he likewiſe heard the voices of the Indians, but did not ſee any. Two turtles were ſeen at this place, ſome water-fowl, and a few ſmall land-birds.

As no water was to be found, the Captain called the inlet THIRSTY SOUND, which they left on the 31ſt of May, and having ſailed round three ſmall iſlands, anchored in fifteen fathom water. On the 1ſt of June they got under ſail, having a number of iſlands in ſight, as far as the eye could reach. On the ſecond at noon they ſaw a high promontory, which was called CAPE HILLSBOROUGH, and ſeemed to abound in wood and herbage, diſtributed on hills, plains, and in vallies. There are a num⯑ber of ſmall iſlands in this neighbourhood, on ſome of which they ſaw ſmoke ariſing in dif⯑ferent places. On Sunday the 3d they diſ⯑covered a point, which was named CAPE CON⯑WAY, and between that and Cape Hillsſborough a bay, which took the name of REPULSE BAY. [425] The land about CAPE CONWAY is diverſified by hills and dales, lawns and woods, and forms a delightfully verdant appearance. By the help of their glaſſes they diſcovered three people, on one of the iſlands, and a canoe, with an outrigger, like thoſe of Otaheite. They this day named the iſlands, CUMBERLAND ISLANDS, in honour of the Duke; and a paſſage which they diſco⯑vered was called WITSUNDAY'S PASSAGE, from the day on which it was ſeen. At day-break, on Monday, they were a breaſt of a point, which took the name of CAPE GLOUCESTER. Names were likewiſe this day given to three other places, viz. HOLBORNE ISLE, EDGCUMBE BAY, and CAPE UPSTART, which latter was ſo called, becauſe it riſes abruptly from the low lands that ſurround it.

On Tueſday, when near the ſhore, they ſaw very large columns of ſmoke riſing from the low-lands. This day they gave name to CLEAVE⯑LAND BAY, the eaſt point of which was called CAPE CLEAVELAND, and the weſt MAGNETICAL ISLE, becauſe the compaſs did not traverſe well when they were near it. The points, as well as the main land within them, lay high, and form a barren, rugged and rocky coaſt. On the afternoon of Thurſday they ſaw ſeveral large columns of ſmoke, likewiſe ſome canoes, and ſeveral natives, with ſome trees, that they thought were thoſe of cocoa-nut; in ſearch of which fruit Meſſrs. Banks and Solander went [426] aſhore with Lieutenant Hicks; but they re⯑turned in the evening with a few plants, which they had gathered from the cabbage palm, and which had been miſtaken for the cocoa-tree. On Friday they gave the name of POINT HIL⯑LOCK to a point of land; between which and Magnetical Iſle the ſhore forms HALIFAX BAY, which affords ſhelter from all winds. At ſix this evening they were a-breaſt of a point of land, which was named Cape Sandwich, near which lies ROCKINGHAM BAY. Hence they ranged northward along the ſhore, towards a cluſter of iſlands, on one of which about forty men, women and children were ſtanding together, and look⯑ing at the ſhip with a curioſity never obſerved among theſe people before. The north point of Rockingham bay was called DUNK ISLE, which is ſcarcely to be diſtinguiſhed from the ſhore, it lies ſo very near it. On Saturday morning they were a-breaſt of ſome ſmall iſlands, which were named FRANKLAND'S ISLES; near which lie two places, which were called CAPE GRAPTON and GREEN ISLAND. Here Meſſrs. Banks and Solander went aſhore with the Cap⯑tain, whoſe chief view were to procure water, which not being eaſily to be got, they ſoon re⯑turned on board, and the next day arrived near TRINITY BAY, which was ſo called, becauſe it was diſcovered on Trinity Sunday.

As no accident remarkably unfortunate had befallen our adventurers, during a navigation of [427] more than thirteen hundred miles, upon a coaſt every where abounding with the moſt dange⯑rous rocks and ſhoals; no name expreſſive of diſtreſs had hitherto been given to any cape or point of land which they had ſeen. But they now gave the name of CAPE TRIBULATION to a point which they had juſt diſcovered, as they here became acquainted with misfortune.

This cape is in ſixteen degrees ſix minutes ſouth latitude, and 214 degrees 39 minutes weſt longitude.

At ſix in the evening they ſhortened ſail, to avoid the danger of ſome rocks, which were ſeen a head, and to obſerve whether any iſlands lay in the offing, as they were now near the latitude of thoſe iſlands ſaid to have been diſ⯑covered by Quiros. They kept ſtanding off from ſix o'clock till near nine, with a fine breeze and bright moon. They had got from fourteen into twenty-one fathom water; when ſuddenly they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathom, in a few minutes. Every man was in⯑ſtantly ordered to his ſtation, and they were on the point of anchoring, when, on a ſudden, they had again deep water, ſo that they thought all danger was at an end, concluding they had ſailed over the tail of ſome ſhoals which they had ſeen in the evening. They had twenty fathom and upwards before ten o'clock, and this depth continuing ſome time, the gentlemen, who had hitherto been upon deck, retired to [428] reſt; but in leſs than an hour the water ſhallow⯑ed at once from twenty to ſeventeen fathom, and, before ſoundings could be again taken, the ſhip ſtruck againſt a rock, and remained fixed, but from the motion given her by the beating of the ſurge. Every one was inſtantly on deck, with countenances fully expreſſive of the agi⯑tation of their minds. As they knew they were not near the ſhore, they concluded they had ſtruck againſt a rock of coral, the points of which being ſharp, and the ſurface ſo rough, as to grind away whatever is rubbed againſt it, tho' with a gentle motion; they had reaſon to dread the horror of their ſituation!

The ſails being taken in, and boats hoiſted out to examine the depth of water, they found that the ſhip had been carried over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within it. Finding that the water was deepeſt eaſtern, they car⯑ried out the anchor from the ſtarboard quarter, and applied their whole force to the capſtern, in hopes to get the veſſel off, but in vain. She now beat ſo violently againſt the rock, that the crew could ſcarcely keep on their legs. The moon now ſhone bright, by the light of which they could ſee the ſheathing boards float from the bottom of the veſſel; till at length the falſe keel followed, ſo that they expected inſtant deſtruction. Their beſt chance of eſ⯑caping ſeemed now to be by lightening her; but as they had ſtruck at high water, they would [429] have been but in their preſent ſituation, after the veſſel ſhould draw as much leſs water as the water had ſunk: but their anxiety abated a lit⯑tle, on finding that the ſhip ſettled to the rocks as the tide ebbed. They, however, flattered themſelves, that if the ſhip ſhould keep toge⯑ther till next tide, they might have ſome chance of floating her. They therefore inſtantly ſtarted the water in the hold, and pumped it up. The decayed ſtores, oil jars, caſks, ballaſt, ſix of their guns, and other things, were thrown over-board, in order to get at the heavier articles; and in this buſineſs they were employed till day-break, during all which time it was obſerved, that not an oath was ſworn; ſo much were the minds of the ſailors impreſſed with a ſenſe of their danger.

At day-light they ſaw land at eight leagues diſtance; but not a ſingle iſland between them and the main, on which part of the crew might have been landed, while the boat went on ſhore with the reſt; ſo that the deſtruction of the greater part of them would have been inevita⯑ble, had the ſhip gone to pieces. It happened, however, that the wind died away to a dead calm before noon. As they expected high wa⯑ter at eleven o'clock, every thing was prepared to make another effort to free the ſhip; but the tide fell ſo much ſhort of that in the night, that ſhe did not float by eighteen inches, though they had thrown over-board near fifty tons [430] weight: they now, therefore, renewed their toil, and threw over-board every thing that could be poſſibly ſpared. As the tide fell, the water poured in ſo rapidly, that they could ſcarcely keep her free by the conſtant working of two pumps. Their only hope now depended on the midnight tide, and preparations were accordingly made for another effort to get the ſhip off. The tide began to riſe at five o'clock, when the leak likewiſe encreaſed to ſuch a degree, that two more pumps were manned; but only one of them would work: three, therefore, were kept going till nine o'clock, at which time the ſhip righted; but ſo much water had been admitted by the leak, that they expected ſhe would ſink as ſoon as the water ſhould bear her off the rock. Their ſituation was now deplorable be⯑yond deſcription; and the imagination muſt paint what would baffle the powers of language to deſcribe. They knew that when the fatal moment ſhould arrive, all authority would be at an end. The boats were incapable of convey⯑ing them all on ſhore; and they dreaded a con⯑teſt for the preference, as more ſhocking than the ſhipwreck itſelf: yet it was conſidered, that thoſe who might be left on board, would even⯑tually meet with a milder fate than thoſe who, by gaining the ſhore, would have no chance but to linger the remains of life among the rudeſt ſavages in the univerſe, and in a country, where [431] fire-arms would barely enable them to ſupport a wretched exiſtence.

At twenty minutes after ten the ſhip floated, and was heaved into deep water; when they were happy to find that ſhe did not admit more water than ſhe had done before; yet as the leak had for a conſiderable time gained on the pumps, there was now three feet nine inches water in the hold. By this time the men were ſo worn by fatigue of mind and body, that none of them could pump more than five or ſix mi⯑nutes at a time, and then threw themſelves, quite ſpent, on the deck, amidſt a ſtream of water which came from the pumps The ſuc⯑ceeding man being fatigued in his turn, threw himſelf down in the ſame manner, while the former jumped up and renewed his labour; thus mutually ſtruggling for life, till the following accident had like to have given them up a prey to abſolute deſpair.

Between the inſide lining of the ſhip's bot⯑tom, which is called the ceiling, and the outſide planking, there is a ſpace of about ſeventeen or eighteen inches The man who had hitherto taken the depth of water at the well, had taken it no farther than the ceiling; but being now relieved by another perſon, who took the depth to the outſide planking, it appeared by this miſ⯑take, that the leak had ſuddenly gained upon the pumps, the whole difference between the two plankings.—This circumſtance deprived them [432] of all hopes, and ſcarce any one thought it worth while to labour, for the longer preſerva⯑tion of a life which muſt ſo ſoon have a pe⯑riod: but the miſtake was ſoon diſcovered; and the joy ariſing from ſuch unexpected good news inſpired the men with ſo much vigour, that be⯑fore eight o'clock in the morning they had pumped out conſiderably more water than they had ſhipped. They now talked confidently of getting the ſhip into ſome harbour; and ſet heartily to work to get in their anchors; one of which, and the cable of another, they loſt: but theſe were now conſidered as trifles. Having a good breeze from the ſea, they got under ſail at eleven o'clock, and ſtood for the land.

As they could not diſcover the exact ſituation of the leak, they had no proſpect of ſtopping it within ſide of the veſſel; but the following expedient, which one of the Midſhipmen had formerly ſeen tried with ſucceſs, was adopted. They took an old ſtudding ſail, and having mixed a large quantity of oakham and wool, chopped ſmall, it was ſtitched down in hand⯑fuls on the ſail, as lightly as poſſible; the dung of their ſheep and other filth being ſpread over it. Thus prepared, the ſail was hauled under the ſhip by ropes, which kept it extended till it came under the leak, when the ſuction carried in the oakham and wool from the ſurface of the ſail. This experiment ſucceeded ſo well, that, [433] inſtead of three pumps, the water was eaſily kept under with one.

They had hitherto had no further view than to run the ſhip into an harbour, and build a veſſel from her materials, in which they might reach the Eaſt Indies; but they now began to think of finding a proper place to repair her damage, and then to purſue their voyage on its original plan. At ſix in the evening they an⯑chored ſeven leagues from the ſhore; and found that the ſhip made fifteen inches water an hour during the night; but as the pumps could clear this quantity, they were not uneaſy. At nine in the morning they paſſed two iſlands, which were called HOPE ISLANDS, becauſe the reach⯑ing of them had been the object of their wiſhes at the time of the ſhipwreck. In the afternoon the Maſter was ſent out with two boats to ſound, and ſearch for a harbour where the ſhip might be repaired. They anchored at ſun-ſet, in four fathom, two miles from the ſhore. One of the Mates being out in the pinnace, returned at nine o'clock, reporting, that he had found juſt ſuch a harbour as was wanted, at the diſtance of two leagues.

At ſix o'clock the next morning they ſailed, having previouſly ſent two boats a-head, to lie on the ſhoals that they ſaw in their way. They ſoon anchored about a mile from the ſhore, when the Captain went out, and found the channel very narrow, but the harbour was bet⯑ter [434] adapted to their preſent purpoſe, than any place they had ſeen in the whole courſe of their voyage. As it blew very freſh this day and the following night, they could not venture to run into the harbour, but remained at anchor dur⯑ing the two ſucceeding days, in the courſe of which they obſerved four Indians on the hills, who ſtopped and made two fires.

The men by this time began to be afflicted with the ſcurvy, and their Indian friend, Tu⯑pia, was ſo bad with it, that he had livid ſpots on both his legs. Mr. Green, the aſtronomer, was likewiſe ill of the ſame diſorder; ſo that their being detained from landing was every way diſagreeable. The wind continued freſh till Sunday the 17th, but they then reſolved to puſh in for the harbour, and twice ran the ſhip a-ground; the ſecond time of which ſhe ſtuck faſt; on which they took the booms, fore⯑yard, and fore top-maſts down, and made a raft on the ſide of the ſhip; and, as the tide hap⯑pened to be riſing, ſhe floated at one o'clock. She was now ſoon got into the harbour, where ſhe was moored along the ſide of a beach, and the anchors, cables, &c. immediately taken out of her.

On Monday morning they erected a tent for the ſick, ſeveral of whom were brought on ſhore as ſoon as it was ready for their reception. They likewiſe built a tent to hold the proviſi⯑ons and ſtores, which were landed the ſame day. [435] The boat was now diſpatched in ſearch of fiſh for the refreſhment of the ſick, but ſhe return⯑ed without getting any; but Tupia employed himſelf in angling; and living entirely on the produce of his induſtry, recovered his health very faſt. Mr. Banks, in an excurſion up the country, ſaw the frames of ſeveral Indian houſes, which appeared to have been abandoned ſome time: while the Captain, having aſcended one of the higheſt hills, obſerved the high land to be ſtoney and barren, and the low land near the river over-run with mangroves, among which the ſalt-water flowed every tide.

On Tueſday the Captain ordered the ſmith's forge to be ſet up, and directed the armourer to prepare the neceſſary iron work for the repair of the veſſel. He likewiſe ordered out the of⯑ficers ſtores, water, &c. in order to lighten the ſhip. This day Mr. Banks croſſed the river to view the country, which was little elſe than ſand-hills. He ſaw vaſt flocks of crows and pigeons, of the latter of which he ſhot ſeveral, which were moſt beautiful birds. On the day following, as they were removing the coals, the water ruſhed in, near the foremaſt, about three feet from the keel; ſo that it was reſolved to clear the hold entirely; wherefore they took out all the coals, and the next day warped the ſhip higher up the harbour, to a ſtation proper for laying her a-ſhore, in order to ſtop the leak.

[436]Early in the morning of the 22d the tide left the ſhip, and they proceeded to examine the leak, when they found that the rocks had cut through four planks into the timbers, and that three other planks were damaged. In theſe breaches not a ſplinter was to be ſeen, the whole being ſmooth, as if cut away by an inſtrument: but the preſervation of the veſſel was owing to a very ſingular circumſtance. One of the holes was large enough to have ſunk her, even with eight pumps conſtantly at work; but this hole was in a great meaſure ſtopped up by the fragment of the rock being left ſticking in it. They likewiſe found ſome pieces of the oak⯑ham, wool, &c. which had got between the timbers, and ſtopped many parts of the leak which had been left open by the ſtone. Exclu⯑ſive of the leak, great damage was done to various parts of the ſhip's bottom.

While the ſmiths were engaged in making nails and bolts, the carpenters began to work on the veſſel; and ſome of the crew were ſent acroſs the river to ſhoot pigeons for the ſick. Theſe people found a ſtream of freſh water, diſcover⯑ed many Indian houſes, and had ſight of a mouſe-coloured animal, extremely ſwift, and about the ſize of a greyhound. On the 23d they ſaw plenty of fiſh, but catched only three. This day many of the crew ſaw the animal a⯑bove-mentioned; and one of the ſeamen de⯑clared he had ſeen the Devil, which he deſcribed [437] in the following words, ‘"He was as large, ſays he, as a one gallon keg, and very like it; he had horns and wings, yet he crept ſo ſlowly through the graſs, that if I had not been afeard, I might have touched him."’ It ap⯑peared afterwards, that this poor fellow had ſeen a bat, which is almoſt black, and as large as a partridge; and his own apprehenſions had furniſhed his Devil with horns.

The repairs on the ſtarboard ſide having been finiſhed the preceding day, the carpenters be⯑gan to work under the larboard bow, on Sun⯑day the 24th.—This day Mr. Gore and a party procured a bunch or two of wild plantains, and a few palm cabbages, for the refreſhment of the ſick; and the Captain and Mr. Banks ſaw the animal abovementioned, which had a long tail, that it carried like a greyhound; it leapt like a deer, and the point of its foot reſem⯑bled that of a goat.

The ſhip was now examined abaft, when it was diſcovered, that ſhe had received but little injury in that quarter. The carpenters conti⯑nued to work on her whenever the tide would permit. The veſſel was now in a poſition which threw all the water abaft; and Mr. Banks hav⯑ing removed his whole collection of plants into the bread-room, they were this day found un⯑der water, by which ſome of them were totally deſtroyed; but, by great care, moſt of them were reſtored to a ſtate of preſervation.

[438]The ſhip being in part repaired, they twice attempted to float her, by laſhing a number of caſks under her bottom; but their endeavours proving fruitleſs, they were obliged to wait for the next ſpring tide. This day a plant was found, the leaves of which were almoſt as good as ſpinnage. They likewiſe found more cab⯑bage trees, ſome wild plantain, and a fruit of a deep purple colour, and the ſize of a golden pippin; which, after being kept a few days, taſted like a damſon.

The carpenter was now engaged in caulking the ſhip, and the men employed in filling water and other neceſſary buſineſs; while the Captain amuſed himſelf in catching fiſh for the ſick. On the 28th Mr. Banks took ſome of the crew up the country, to ſhew them a plant which ſerved them for greens, and which the inhabi⯑tants of the Weſt Indies call Indian kale. Here they ſaw a tree notched for climbing, in the ſame way as thoſe ſeen in Botany bay. They alſo met with neſts of white ants, from a few inches to five feet in height. Mr. Gore was up the country, where he ſaw prints of the feet of men, and the tracks of three or four kinds of animals.

On the day following the boat took as many fiſh as allowed a pound and an half to each man. A Midſhipman ſaw a wolf, exactly re⯑ſembling thoſe of America. On the 30th the Captain aſcended a hill to take a view of the [439] ſea, when, to his great concern, he obſerved innumerable ſand-banks and ſhoals, in every direction; but there was an appearance of a paſſage to the northward, the only way he could think of getting clear, as the wind con⯑ſtantly blows from the ſouth-eaſt. Mr. Gore this day ſaw two ſtraw-coloured animals, of the ſize of a hare, but ſhaped like a dog. So much fiſh was taken, that each man had two pounds and a half; and plenty of greens were gathered, which being boiled with the peaſe, their fare was deemed excellent.

On Sunday July the 1ſt, all the men had per⯑miſſion to go on ſhore, except one from each meſs, who went on the fiſhing party, and again met with great ſucceſs. A fire was this day obſerved about a mile up the river. The maſ⯑ter having been ſent in the pinnace, in ſearch of a channel, returned on Tueſday, with an account that he had found a paſſage out to ſea, between the ſhoals, which conſiſted of co⯑ral rocks, many of which were left dry at low water. He found ſome cockles ſo large, that one of them was more than ſufficient for two men; and likewiſe plenty of other ſhell-fiſh, of which he brought a ſupply to the ſhip, in his return to which he had landed in a bay where ſome Indians were at ſupper; but they inſtantly fled, leaving ſome ſea-eggs, and a fire for the dreſſing them. This day they ſucceeded in an attempt to float the ſhip; when they found that, [440] by the poſition ſhe had lain in, ſhe had ſprung a plank, ſo that it was again neceſſary to lay her aſhore. An alligator ſwam by her ſeveral times this day.

On the 4th ſhe was laid aſhore on a ſand-bank, and the next day floated at high water, and moored off the beach, in order to receive the ſtores on board. This day Mr. Banks croſſed the harbour, and found, on a ſandy beach, a great number of fruits, ſuch as they had not ſeen before; among which was a cocoa-nut, which Tupia ſaid had been opened by a crab, and which was judged to be what the Dutch call Beurs Krabbe. The vegetable ſubſtances which Mr. Banks picked up were encruſted with marine productions, which is ſaid to be a proof of their having been brought far by ſea.

Mr. Banks and a party having taken a boat up the river, on the 6th, with a view to make an excurſion in the country, returned on the 8th.—They examined ſome parts of the coun⯑try, which differing but little from what they had already ſeen, they followed the courſe of the river, which they at length found contracted into a narrow channel, bounded by ſteep banks, which were adorned with trees of a moſt beautiful appearance, among which was the bark-tree. The land was low and covered with graſs, and ſeemed capable of being culti⯑vated to great advantage. They ſaw ſeveral animals, one of which was judged to be a wolf. [441] At night they made a fire, and took up their quarters on the banks of the river; but the night was rendered extremely diſagreeable by the ſtings of the muſquitos, which purſued them into the ſmoke, and almoſt into the fire. At break of day they ſat out in ſearch of game, and ſaw four animals, two of which were chaced by Mr. Banks's greyhound; but they greatly outſtripped him in ſpeed, by leaping over the long thick graſs, which incommoded the dog in running. It was obſerved of this animal, that he leaped or bounded forward on two legs, inſtead of running on four. Having returned to the boat, they proceeded up the river, till it contracted to a brook of freſh wa⯑ter, but in which the tide ſtill roſe conſiderably. When they ſtopped for the night, they ſaw a ſmoke at a ſmall diſtance, on which three of them approached it, but the Indians were gone. They ſaw the impreſſion of feet on the ſand, below high-water mark, and found a fire ſtill burning in the hollow of an old tree. At a ſmall diſtance they ſaw ſeveral huts, and obſerv⯑ed ovens dug in the ground; the remains of a recent meal were likewiſe apparent. They now retired to their reſting-place, and ſlept on plan⯑tain-leaves, with bunches of graſs for their pillows, on the ſide of a ſand-bank, under the ſhelter of a buſh.

The tide favouring their return in the morn⯑ing, they loſt no time in getting back to the [442] ſhip. The maſter, who had been ſeven leagues at ſea, returned ſoon after Mr. Banks, bringing with him three turtle, which he took with a boat-hook, and which together weighed near eight hundred pounds. He was ſent out next morning, and Mr. Banks accompanied him with proper inſtruments for catching turtle; but, not being ſucceſsful, he would not go back that night; ſo that Mr. Banks, after collecting ſome ſhells and marine productions, returned in his own ſmall boat.

In the morning the ſecond Lieutenant was ſent to bring the Maſter back, ſoon after which four Indians, in a ſmall canoe, were within ſight. The Captain now determined to take no notice of theſe people, as the moſt likely way to be noticed by them. This project anſwered: two of them came within muſket-ſhot of the veſſel, where they converſed very loud: in re⯑turn the people on board ſhouted, and made ſigns of invitation. The Indians gradually ap⯑proached, with their lances held up, not in a menacing manner, but as if they meant to inti⯑mate they were capable of defending themſelves. They came almoſt along-ſide, when the Captain threw them cloth, nails, paper, &c. which did not ſeem to attract their notice. At length one of the ſailors threw them a ſmall fiſh, which ſo pleaſed them, that they hinted their deſign of bringing their companions, and immediately rowed for the ſhore. In the interim, Tupia [443] and ſome of the crew landed on the oppoſite ſhore. The four Indians now came quite along-ſide the ſhip; and having received farther pre⯑ſents, landed where Tupia and the ſailors had gone. They had each two lances, and a ſtick with which they throw them. Advancing to⯑wards the Engliſh, Tupia perſuaded them to lay down their arms, and ſit by him, which they readily did. Others of the crew now going a⯑ſhore, the Indians ſeemed jealous, leaſt they ſhould get between them and their arms; but care was taken to convince them that no ſuch thing was intended, and more trifles were pre⯑ſented to them. The crew ſtaid with them till dinner-time, and then made ſigns of invitation for them to go to the ſhip and eat; but this they declined, and retired in their canoe.

Theſe men were of the common ſtature, with very ſmall limbs; their complexion a deep chocolate; their hair black, either lank or curled, but not of the wool kind; the breaſt and upper lip of one of them were painted with ſtreaks of white, which he called Carbanda, and ſome parts of their bodies had been painted red. Their teeth were white and even, their eyes bright, and their features rather pleaſing: their voices were muſical, and they repeated ſe⯑veral Engliſh words with great readineſs.

The viſit of three of theſe Indians was re⯑newed the next morning, and they brought with them a fourth, whom they called YAPA⯑RICO; [444] who appeared to be a perſon of ſome conſequence. The bone of a bird, about ſix inches long, was thruſt through the griſtle of his noſe: and indeed all the inhabitants of this place had their noſes bored, for the reception of ſuch an ornament. Theſe people being all naked, the Captain gave one of them an old ſhirt, which he bound round his head like a turban, inſtead of uſing it to cover any part of his body. They brought a fiſh to the ſhip, which was ſuppoſed to be in payment for that given them the preceding day: after ſtaying ſome time, with apparent ſatisfaction, they ſud⯑denly leaped into their canoe, and rowed off, from a jealouſy of ſome of the gentlemen who were examining it.

Three Indians viſited Tupia's tent on the 12th of July, and after remaining ſome time, one of them went for two others, whom he in⯑troduced by name. Some fiſh was offered them, but they ſeemed not much to regard it, and, after eating a little, gave the remainder to Mr. Banks's dog. Some ribbands which had been given them, to which medals were ſuſpended round their necks, were ſo changed by ſmoke, that it was difficult to judge what colour they had been; and the ſmoke had made their ſkins look darker than their natural colour; from whence it was thought that they ſlept cloſe to their fires, as a preventative againſt the ſting of the muſquitos. Both the ſtrangers had bones [445] through their noſes, and a piece of bark tied over the forehead; and one of them had an ornament of ſtrings round his arm, and an ele⯑gant necklace made of ſhells. Their canoe was about ten feet long, and calculated to hold four perſons; and when it was in ſhallow wa⯑ter they moved it by means of poles. Their lances had only a ſingle point, and ſome of them were barbed with fiſh-bones. On the 14th Mr. Gore ſhot one of the mouſe-coloured animals abovementioned. It chanced to be a young one, weighing no more than thirty-eight pounds; but when full grown they are as large as a ſheep. The ſkin of this beaſt, which is called Kanguroo, is covered with ſhort fur, and is of a dark mouſe-colour: the head and ears are ſomewhat like thoſe of a hare: this animal was dreſſed for dinner, and proved fine eating. The ſhip's crew fed on turtle almoſt every day, which were finer than thoſe eaten in England, owing to their being killed before their natural fat was waſted, and their juices changed.

On the 17th Meſſrs. Banks and Solander went with the Captain into the woods, and ſaw four Indians in a canoe, who went on ſhore, and walked up without ſign of fear. They accepted ſome beads, and departed, inti⯑mating, that they did not chuſe to be followed. The natives being now become familiar with the ſhip's crew, one of them was deſired to [446] throw his lance, which he did with ſuch dex⯑terity and force, that though it was not above four feet from the ground at the higheſt, it pe⯑netrated deeply into a tree at the diſtance of fifty yards. The natives now went on board the ſhip, and were well pleaſed with their en⯑tertainment. On the 19th they ſaw ſeveral of the women, who, as well as the men, were quite naked. They were this day viſited by ten of the natives, who ſeemed reſolved to have one of the turtle that was on board, which they repeatedly made ſigns for, and being as repeatedly refuſed, they expreſſed the utmoſt rage and reſentment; and one of them, in par⯑ticular, having received a denial from Mr. Banks, he ſtamped, and puſhed him away in the moſt violent manner. At length they laid hands on two of the turtles, and drew them to the ſide of the ſhip where their canoe lay; but the ſailors took them away. They made ſeveral ſimilar attempts, but being equally un⯑ſucceſsful, they leaped ſuddenly into their ca⯑noe, and rowed off. At this inſtant the Cap⯑tain, with Mr. Banks, and five or ſix ſeamen, went aſhore, where they arrived before the In⯑dians, and where many of the crew were al⯑ready employed. As ſoon as the Indians landed, one of them ſnatched a fire-brand from under a pitch kettle, and running to the windward of what effects were on ſhore, ſet fire to the dry graſs, which burnt rapidly, ſcorched a pig to [447] death, burnt part of the ſmith's forge, and would have deſtroyed a tent of Mr. Banks's, but that ſome people came from the ſhip juſt in time to get it out of the way of the flames. In the interim the Indians went to a place where the fiſhing nets lay, and a quantity of linen was laid out to dry, and there again ſet fire to the graſs, in ſpite of all perſuaſion, and even of threats. A muſket loaded with ſmall ſhot was now fired, and one of them being wounded, they ran away, and this ſecond fire was eaſily extinguiſhed; but the other burnt far into the woods.

The natives continuing ſtill in ſight, a muſ⯑quet charged with ball was fired near them; upon hearing which they ſoon got out of ſight: but their voices being ſoon heard in the woods, and ſeeming to come nearer, the Captain, with a few people, went to meet them. When they were in ſight of each other, both parties ſtop⯑ped, except an old Indian, who advanced be⯑fore the reſt a little way, but ſoon halted, and ſpeaking a few words, retreated to his brethren, and they all retired ſlowly together. The Eng⯑liſh having ſeized ſome of their darts, followed them about a mile, and then ſat down, the In⯑dians ſitting about an hundred yards from them. The old man again came forward, having in his hand a lance with a point. He ſtopped and ſpoke ſeveral times, on which the Captain made ſigns of friendſhip. The old Indian now [448] turned to his companions, and having ſpoken to them, they placed their lances againſt a tree, and came forward as in friendſhip; whereupon their darts which had been taken were returned, and the whole quarrel ſeemed to be at an end. The Indians having accepted ſome trinkets, walked amicably toward the coaſt, intimating, by ſigns, that they would not fire the graſs again. They ſat down oppoſite the ſhip, but would not go on board; and they accepted a few muſquet-balls, the uſe and effect of which the Captain endeavoured to explain to them. When Captain Cook got on board he ſaw the woods burning at the diſtance of two miles.

The maſter having been ſent to ſearch for a paſſage to the northward, returned with an ac⯑count that he could not find any. By the night of the 20th the fire had extended many miles round them on the hills, which at night formed an appearance that was very ſtriking. On the 22d they killed a turtle, through both ſhoulders of which ſtuck a wooden harpoon, which the Indians had ſtriken it with, and the wound was quite healed. The next day one of the ſeamen, who had ſtrayed from his company, met with four Indians at dinner: he was alarmed at this unexpected meeting, but had prudence enough to conceal his apprehenſions, and ſitting down by them, gave them his knife, which having all looked at, they returned: he would then have left them; but they choſe to detain him till, by [449] feeling his hands and face, they were convinced he was made of fleſh and blood like themſelves: they then diſmiſſed him, directing him the near⯑eſt way to the ſhip.

Mr. Banks having gone on ſhore in ſearch of plants, found the cloth, which had been diſtri⯑buted among the natives, lying in a heap, as a commodity of no value. On the 24th, Meſſrs. Solander and Banks found ſeveral marking nuts [the Anacardium orientale] on the ground; but their ſearch for the tree that bore them was fruitleſs. On the 26th Mr. Banks catched a female animal, called the Opoſſum, with two young ones.

By the 29th the ſhip was ready for ſea; but there was not water ſufficient for her to paſs the bar. On the firſt of Auguſt they found that their pumps were all rotten; but as the ſhip admitted only an inch of water in an hour, they hoped ſhe would be ſtout enough to bear the voyage. On the 4th of this month they put to ſea, the pinnace going a-head to keep ſounding, and at noon came to an anchor, when the Cap⯑tain gave the name of CAPE BEDFORD to the northermoſt point of land in ſight, and that of ENDEAVOUR RIVER to the harbour which they had quitted.

The proviſions they obtained while in this harbour, conſiſted of turtle, which they went ſome miles to ſea to catch; oyſters of three dif⯑ferent ſorts, large cavalhe or ſcomber, large [450] mullets, ſome flat fiſh, a great number of ſmall ſcombri, and ſkate or ray fiſh; purſlain, wild beans, the tops of coccos, and cabbage palms. Of quadrupedes there are goats, wolves, and pole-cats, and a ſpotted animal of the viverra kind; and ſeveral kinds of ſerpents, only ſome of which are venomous. Dogs are the only tame animals; the land-fowls are kites, crows, hawks, loriquets, cockatoos, parrots, pigeons, and ſmall birds of various kinds, the names of which were not known: the water-fowls are wild geeſe, curlieus, hens, whiſtling ducks, which perch on trees, and ſome few others. The ſoil produces the gum tree, and various o⯑ther kinds of wood, and coarſe graſs: the whole of the country is well watered, and ant hills abound in every part of it.

On the 4th the Captain aſcended to the maſt-head, to look at ſome ſhoals which threatened great danger; and he ſaw ſeveral of them above the water. This day ſuch a quantity of fiſh was catched, as allowed a dividend of two pounds to each man. During the ſix following days they ſtruggled inceſſantly to ſail ſafely paſt the ſhoals and breakers, by which they were every way ſurrounded; but, for the preſent, their at⯑tempts were vain. On the 10th they were be⯑tween a head-land, and three iſlands, which had been diſcovered on the preceding day; and be⯑gan to conceive hopes that they were out of danger; but this not proving the caſe, the head-land [451] received the name of CAPE FLATTERY. Some land was now ſeen from the maſt-head, which was generally taken for the main; but the Captain judged it to be a cluſter of iſlands; and during this diverſity of opinion, the ſhip came to an anchor. The Captain now landed, and aſcending a high point, took a ſurvey of the ſea coaſt, by which he was confirmed in his opinion, that what they had ſeen was not any part of the main, but a number of iſlands. On the point where he ſtood were ſeen the prints of human feet, in white ſand of an ex⯑quiſite fineneſs, and the ſpot was denominated POINT LOOKOUT.

Early on the 11th Mr. Banks and the Cap⯑tain went to viſit the largeſt of three iſlands, which had been ſeen from the point the pre⯑ceding day. Having gained the ſummit of the higheſt hill, they beheld a reef of rocks, on which the ſea broke in a frightful manner; but the thickneſs of the weather preventing a per⯑fect view, they lodged under a buſh during the night, in the hope of having a better proſpect in the morning; but the weather then proved worſe than it had been on the preceding day; yet, as they ſaw what had the appearance of a channel between the reefs, a perſon was ſent to examine it, who found it very narrow. They now ſet out to return to the ſhip, after giving the name of LIZARD ISLAND to this place, [452] from their having ſeen no animals but lizards on it.

On their return they landed on a low ſandy iſland, which abounded in birds of various kinds, among which were eagles, a neſt of the young of which they took, and called the place EAGLE ISLAND. On this ſpot they ſaw the neſt of ſome bird, which was built with ſticks on the ground, it was near three feet in height, and twenty-ſix round.

During the interval of their abſence from the ſhip, the maſter had landed on ſeveral low iſlands, where he had ſeen great heaps of turtle ſhells, and found the fins of them which the Indians had left hanging on the trees, ſo freſh, that they were dreſſed and eaten by the boat's crew.

After a converſation held among the officers, it was their concurrent opinion, that it would be beſt to leave the coaſt, and ſtand out to ſea: and in conſequence of theſe ſentiments they ſailed on the 13th of Auguſt, 1770, and got through one of the channels in the reef; happy to be once more in an open ſea, after having been ſurrounded by dreadful ſhoals and rocks for near three months. They had now ſailed above a thouſand miles, during all which run they had been obliged to keep ſounding, with⯑out the intermiſſion of a ſingle minute; a cir⯑cumſtance which, it is ſuppoſed, never hap⯑pened to any ſhip but the Endeavour.

[453]The iſlands from one of which the paſſage to the open ſea had been obſerved, were called the ISLANDS OF DIRECTION. They abound in turtle and other fiſh, and on the beach were found bamboos, cocoa-nuts, pumice-ſtone, and the ſeeds of plants, which were ſuppoſed to be carried thither by the trade winds, as the plants themſelves do not grow in the country.

Having anchored on the 14th, they ſteered a weſterly courſe on the following day, to get ſight of the land, that a paſſage between that land and New Guinea might not be miſſed, if there was any ſuch paſſage. Early in the afternoon they had ſight of land, which had the appear⯑ance of hilly iſlands, but it was judged to be a part of the main; and they ſaw breakers be⯑tween the veſſel and the land, in which was an opening, to get clear of which they ſet all their ſails, and ſtood to the northward till midnight, and then went on a ſouthward tack for about two miles, when the breeze died away to a dead calm. When day-light came on they ſaw a dreadful ſurf break at a vaſt height within a mile of the ſhip, towards which the rolling waves carried her with great rapidity. Thus diſtreſſed, the boats were ſent a-head to tow, and the head of the veſſel was brought about, but not till ſhe was within one hundred yards of the rock, between which and her there was nothing left but the chaſm, made by the laſt wave which had waſhed her ſide, and which had riſen and [454] broke to a wonderful height on the rock:—but, in the moment they expected inſtant deſtruction, a breeze, hardly diſcernible, aided the boats in getting the veſſel in an oblique direction from the rock. The hopes however, afforded by this providential circumſtance, were deſtroyed by a perfect calm which ſucceeded in a few minutes; yet the breeze once more returned, before they had loſt the little ground which had been gained.

At this time a ſmall opening was ſeen in the reef, and a young officer being ſent to examine it, found that its breadth did not much exceed the length of the ſhip, but that there was ſmooth water on the other ſide of the rocks. A⯑nimated by the hope of preſerving life, they now attempted to paſs the opening; but this was impoſſible; for it having become high water in the interim, the ebb tide ruſhed through it with amazing impetuoſity, carrying the ſhip about a quarter of a mile from the reef, and ſhe ſoon reached the diſtance of near two miles, by the help of the boats. When the ebb tide was ſpent, the tide of flood again drove the veſſel very near the rocks, ſo that their proſpect of deſtruction was renewed, when they diſcovered another opening, and a light breeze ſpringing up, they entered it, and were driven through it with a rapidity that prevented the ſhip from ſtriking againſt either ſide of the channel. The ſhip now came to an anchor, and her crew were [455] grateful for having regained a ſtation, which they had been very lately moſt anxious to quit.

The name of PROVIDENTIAL CHANNEL was given to the opening through which the ſhip had thus eſcaped the moſt imminent dangers. A high promontory on the main land in ſight, was denominated CAPE WEYMOUTH, and a bay near it WEYMOUTH BAY. This day the boats went out to fiſh, and met with great ſucceſs, particu⯑larly in catching cockles, ſome of which were of ſuch an amazing ſize, as to require the ſtrength of two men to move them. Mr. Banks like⯑wiſe ſucceeded in his ſearch for rare ſhells, and different kinds of coral.

On the 18th they diſcovered ſeveral ſmall iſlands, which were called FORBES'S ISLANDS, and had ſight of a high point of land on the main, which was named the BOLT HEAD. On the 19th they diſcovered ſeveral other ſmall iſlands, the land of which was low, barren, and ſandy. A point was ſeen, and called CAPE GRENVILLE, and a bay which took the name of TEMPLE BAY. In the afternoon many other iſlands were ſeen, which were denominated BIRD ISLES, from their being frequented by nu⯑merous flocks of birds.

On the 20th many more ſmall iſlands were ſeen, on one of which there were a few trees, and many Indian huts, ſuppoſed to have been erected by the natives of the main land, as tem⯑porary habitations during their viſits to theſe [456] iſlands. On the 21ſt they ſailed through a channel, in which was a number of ſhoals; and gave the name of YORK CAPE to a point of the main land which forms the ſide of the chan⯑nel. A large bay is formed to the ſouth of the cape, which was called NEWCASTLE BAY, and in which are ſeveral little iſlands. On the north ſide of the cape the land is rather mountainous, but the low parts of the country abound with trees. The iſlands diſcovered in the morning of this day, were called YORK ISLES. In the afternoon they anchored between ſome iſlands, and obſerved, that the channel now began to grow wider: they obſerved two diſtant points, between which no land could be ſeen, ſo that the hope of having at length explored a paſſage into the Indian ſea began to animate every breaſt: but, to bring the matter nearer to a certainty, the Captain took a party, and being accompanied by Meſſrs. Solander and Banks, they landed on an iſland, on which they had ſeen a number of Indians, ten of whom were on a hill, one of them carrying a bow, and a bun⯑dle of arrows, the reſt armed with lances; and round the necks of two of them hung ſtrings of mother-of-pearl. Three of theſe Indians ſtood on the ſhore, as if to oppoſe the landing of the boat; but they retired before it reached the beach.

The Captain and his company now aſcended a hill, from whence they had a view of near [457] forty miles, in which ſpace there was nothing that threatened to oppoſe their paſſage; ſo that the certainty of a channel ſeemed to be almoſt aſcertained. Previous to their leaving the iſland, Captain Cook diſplayed the Engliſh colours, and took poſſeſſion of all the eaſtern coaſt of the country, from the 38th degree of ſouth-la⯑titude, to the preſent ſpot, by the name of NEW SOUTH WALES, for his Sovereign the King of Great Britain; and three vollies of ſmall arms being fired, and anſwered by an equal num⯑ber from the Endeavour, the place received the name of POSSESSION ISLAND.

The next morning they ſaw three naked wo⯑men collecting ſhell-fiſh on the beach; and weighing anchor, gave the name of CAPE CORN⯑WALL to the extreme point of the largeſt iſland on the north-weſt ſide of the paſſage: ſome low iſlands near the middle of the channel receiving the name of WALLIS'S ISLES; ſoon after which the ſhip came to an anchor, and the long-boat was ſent out to found.

Towards evening they ſailed again, and the Captain landed with Mr. Banks on a ſmall iſland, which was frequented by immenſe num⯑bers of birds, the majority of which being boo⯑bies, the place received the name of BOOBY ISLAND. They were now advanced to the nor⯑thern extremity of New Holland, and had the ſatisfaction of viewing the open ſea to the weſt⯑ward. The north-eaſt entrance of the paſſage [458] is formed by the main land of New Holland, and by a number of iſlands which took the name of the PRINCE OF WALES'S ISLANDS, and which Captain Cook imagines may reach to New Guinea: theſe iſlands abound with trees and graſs, and were known to be inhabited, from the ſmoke that was ſeen aſcending in many places.

To the paſſage which they had ſailed through, Captain Cock gave the name of ENDEAVOUR STREIGHTS; we ſhall now proceed to a more accurate deſcription of the country they had diſ⯑covered; with an account of its productions, and of the manners and language of its inha⯑bitants.

New South Wales is a much larger country than any hitherto known, which is not deemed a continent, being larger than all Europe; which is proved by the Endeavour having coaſt⯑ed more than two thouſand miles, even if her tract was reduced to a ſtrait line. Northward of the latitude of thirty-three degrees, the country is hilly, but not mountainous; but to the ſouthward of that latitude, it is moſtly low and even ground. The hills in general are di⯑verſified by lawns and woods, and many of the vallies abound with herbage; though, on the whole, it cannot be deemed a fertile country. To the northward the graſs is not ſo rich, nor the trees ſo high as in the ſouthern parts; and almoſt every where, even the largeſt trees grow [459] at a diſtance of not leſs than thirteen yards aſun⯑der. In all thoſe places where the land forms a bay, the ſhore is covered with mangroves, which grow about a mile inland, in a ſtinking ground, which the ſpring tides always overflow. In ſome parts there are bogs, covered with thick graſs, and there is plenty of under⯑wood in the vallies: the ſoil in general ſeems unfit for cultivation, though there are many ſpots where the arts of tillage might be attend⯑ed with ſucceſs.

Salt creeks run in many directions through the country, which likewiſe abounds in ſprings and brooks of freſh water, but has no rivers of any conſiderable ſize; yet it is ſuppoſed to be upon the whole well watered, as the time when the ſhip was on the coaſt, was the drieſt ſeaſon of the year. All parts of the country produce the gum tree, which yields a reſin like the ſan⯑guis draconis.

There are palm-trees of three kinds, two of which are found only in the northern diſtrict. One of theſe produces nuts reſembling cheſnuts, the hulls of which being ſound near where the natives had made fires, it was ſuppoſed that they were eatable; but ſome of the ſeamen having eaten of them, were taken very ill: upon which they were given to the hogs, but two of theſe died in about a week, and it was a work of difficulty to recover the reſt. The ſecond ſort of palm is much like the true cabbage tree [460] of the Weſt Indies, and yields a large cabbage of a tolerable flavour. The third ſort, which abounds in the ſouthward parts, produces a ſmall cabbage of the moſt agreeable taſte; and its nuts, which are fine food for hogs, grow in the greateſt abundance. This country alſo pro⯑duces a tree, on which grows a kind of purple apple, which taſtes like a damaſcen, after keep⯑ing it a few days:—a fig-tree, the fruit of which taſtes very indifferently:—and a tree, the fruit of which is flat on the ſides like a cheeſe, but its colour is that of a plumb.

Among the plants there is one, the leaves of which are like thoſe of the bulruſh, which yeilds a bright yellow reſin, exactly like gam⯑bouge, but it does not ſtain: this plant had a very agreeable ſmell, but it is not known to what uſes it might be applied. There are two kinds of yams, one round, and covered with ſtringy fibres, and the other ſhaped like a ra⯑diſh; but both of them are pleaſant to the taſte: beſides theſe, the country produces pur⯑ſlain, and a kind of wild parſley. A fruit of a bad taſte was found, which reſembled a pine⯑apple, and another, the kernel of which was ſoft, but it was otherwiſe like a cherry.

Beſides the quadrupedes already mentioned, there is one, the belly of which is totally white, and the back brown, with white ſpots: it is much like a polecat, and the Indians call it Quoll.—There are vaſt numbers of beautiful [461] pigeons, many of which were ſhot by the ſeamen; and the other land-birds are eagles, hawks, cranes, herons, buſtards, crows, quails, doves, parrots, paroquets, cockatoos, and ſome other birds of very elegant plumage.

The inſects are few in number, among which the muſquito and the ant are the chief. The ants are of four kinds. The firſt are perfectly green, and live on trees, in which they build curious neſts, by bending down the leaves, and gluing them together with an animal juice: thouſands of them joined to keep the leaf in its proper poſition, while many others were em⯑ployed in the gluing them. Being diſturbed in their work, the leaves, which are four or five inches in breadth, flew back with a force which was thought much ſuperior to the united ſtrength of theſe inſects. Thoſe who diſturbed them paid for their curioſity, by being ſtung in a very ſevere manner.

The ſecond kind of ants are quite black, and live in the inſide of the branches of trees, after they have worked out the pith. Some of the branches being gathered, millions of theſe animals iſſued from every broken twig.

The third ſort took up their lodging in the root of a plant that twines round the trunk of other trees. This root, which they hollowed for their purpoſe, was cut into great numbers of paſſages which ran acroſs each other; yet the plant appeared not to have been injured. [462] Theſe were not more than half the ſize of the red ant of this country, but, upon being diſ⯑turbed, they crawled over the body in thou⯑ſands, and put their diſturbers to the pain ari⯑ſing from exquiſite tickling.

The fourth kind were like the white ants of the Eaſt Indies; and had one ſort of neſts, as big as an half peck loaf, hanging from the boughs of the trees, and compoſed of ſeveral minute parts of vegetables, ſtuck together by a glutinous matter, ſuppoſed to have been ſup⯑plied from their own bodies. The cells had a communication with each other, and had open⯑ings which led to other neſts on the ſame tree: they had likewiſe a hollow covered paſſage to another neſt on the ground, at the root of a different tree from that on which the former neſt was ſuſpended. The ground neſts are ſix feet in height, and almoſt as much in breadth; the outſide being plaiſtered with clay of near two inches in thickneſs: theſe have a ſubterra⯑neous paſſage to the roots of the trees near which they ſtand; from whence the ants aſcend, by covered ways, up the trunk and branches. As theſe ground-built houſes are proof againſt the invaſion of the rain, it is ſuppoſed that the ants retire to them during the wet ſeaſon.

The ſeas in theſe parts produce variety and plenty of fiſh, among which are mullets, ſea-crayfiſh, and crabs. On the ſhoals are found the rock, pearl, and other oyſters; and the moſt [463] delicate green turtle, beſides thoſe enormous cockles which have been already mentioned. Alligators are found in the rivers and ſalt creeks.

This country does not appear to be inhabited by numbers any way proportioned to its great extent: not above thirty being ever ſeen toge⯑ther but once, which was when thoſe of both ſexes and all ages got together on a rock off Botany-bay, to view the ſhip. None of their villages conſiſted of more huts than would af⯑ford ſhelter for fourteen or fifteen men; and theſe were the largeſt numbers that ever aſſem⯑bled with a view to attack the Engliſh. No part of the country appeared to be cultivated; whence there muſt neceſſarily be fewer inhabi⯑tants inland, than on the ſea coaſt.

The men are well made, of the middle ſize, and active in a high degree; but their voices are ſort even to effeminacy. Their colour is the chocolate; but they were ſo covered with dirt, as to look almoſt as black as negroes. Their hair is naturally long and black, but they com⯑monly crop it ſhort; in ſome few inſtances it is ſlightly curled, but in common quite ſtrait. It is always matted with dirt, yet wholly free from lice: their beards are thick and buſhy, but kept ſhort by ſinging. The women were ſeen only at a diſtance, as the men conſtantly left them behind when they croſſed the river.

The chief ornament of theſe people is the bone that is thruſt through the noſe, which [464] the ſailors whimſically termed their ſpritſail yard: but beſides this they wore necklaces form⯑ed of ſhells, a ſmall cord tied twice or thrice round the arm between the elbow and the ſhoulder, and a ſtring of plaited human hair round the waiſt. Some few of them had an ornament of ſhells hanging acroſs the breaſt. Beſides theſe ornaments, they painted their bo⯑dies and limbs white and red, in ſtripes of dif⯑ferent dimenſions; and they had a circle of white round each eye, and ſpots of it on the face. Their ears were bored, but they did not wear ear-rings.

Theſe people accepted whatever was given them, but ſeemed to have no idea of making an adequate return; and they would not part with their ornaments for any thing that was offered in exchange. Their bodies were mark⯑ed with ſcars, which they ſignified were in re⯑membrance of the deceaſed.

Their huts were built with ſmall rods, the two ends of which were fixed into the ground, ſo as to form the figure of an oven; they are covered with pieces of bark and palm-leaves. The door of this building, which is only high enough to ſit upright in, is oppoſite to the fireplace; they ſleep with their heels turned up to⯑wards their heads; and even in this poſture the hut will not hold more than four people. In the nor⯑thern parts, where the weather was warmer, one ſide of the houſes was left open, and the [465] other oppoſed to whatever wind might blow at the time▪ theſe huts were only built for tempo⯑rary uſe, and left behind when they removed to other parts of the country; but [...] th [...]ir ſtay was only for a night or two, they had no other protection from the weather than what the graſs and buſhes afforded. While the huts on the main land were turned from the wind, thoſe on the iſlands were turned towards it; a kind of proof that they viſit the iſlands in fine weather, and enjoy the refreſhing breeze while they ſleep.

Theſe huts are furniſhed with a kind of bucket for fetching water, made of an oblong piece of bark tied up at each end with the twig of a tree; and this is the only furniture of the houſe. On their backs they have a kind of ba [...], of the ſize and form of a cabbage- [...], in which they carry the [...]r fiſh hooks and [...]es, the [...]lls of which they make theſe hooks, the or⯑naments which they wear, ſome points of darts, and two or three [...] of paint; and in this nar⯑row compaſs lies all their [...]hes.

They feed on the kangaroo and on ſeveral kinds of birds, when they can catch them; they likewiſe eat ya [...]s, and various kinds of fruit, but the principal [...]le of their ſubſiſt⯑ence is fiſh. They were frequently obſerved with the leaves of a [...] in the [...]r mouths, but whether it had the qualities either of tobacco or [...]tle could not be known, but it was obſerved not to diſcolour the teeth or l [...]p [...].

[4] [...]

[467]The natives of New South Wales make uſe of ſpears or lances; but theſe are very differ⯑ently conſtructed: thoſe that were ſeen in the ſouthern parts of the country had four prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed; and the points were rubbed with a hard kind of wax, the ſmoothneſs of which made an eaſier paſſage into what was ſtruck by them. On the contrary, the lances in the northern parts have only one point: the ſhafts of them are of different lengths, from eight to fourteen feet, are made of the ſtalk of a plant not unlike a bulruſh, and conſiſt of ſeveral joints let into each other, and tied together. The points of theſe lances are ſometimes made of fiſh-bones, and ſome⯑times of a hard heavy wood: they are barbed with other pieces of wood or bone, ſo that when they have entered any depth into the body, they cannot be drawn out without tearing the fleſh in a ſhocking manner, or leaving ſplinters behind them.

When the natives intend to wound at a con⯑ſiderable diſtance, they diſcharge this inſtru⯑ment with a throwing-ſtick; but if the object be near them, it is thrown from the hand only. The throwing-ſtick is a piece of ſmooth, hard, red wood, half an inch thick, two inches broad, and about three feet in length, having a croſs piece near four inches long at one end, and a ſmall knob at the other. A ſmall hollow is made in the ſhaft of the lance, near the point, [468] and in this hollow the knob is received; but, on being forced forward, it will eaſily ſlip from it. The lance being placed on this throwing-ſtick, the Indian holds it over his ſhoulder, ſhakes it, and then throws both lance and ſtick with his utmoſt power, but as the croſs piece ſtrikes the ſhoulder, the ſudden jerk ſtops the ſtick, while the lance is driven forward with amazing rapidity, and is generally ſo well aim⯑ed, that a mark at the diſtance of fifty yards is more certainly ſtruck with it, than by a bullet from a gun.

Theſe people make uſe of ſhields, made of the bark of trees, of about eighteen inches broad, and three feet long. Many trees were ſeen from whence the bark had been taken, and others on which the ſhields were cut out, but not taken away.

In the northern parts of this coaſt, the ca⯑noes are formed by hollowing out the trunk of a tree; and it was conjectured, that this ope⯑ration muſt have been performed by fire, as the natives did not appear to have any inſtrument proper for the purpoſe. The canoes are in length about fou [...]teen feet and ſo narrow that they would be frequently overſet, but that they are provided with an o [...]ger. The natives row them with paddles, uſing both hands in that [...]ployment.

The canoes in the ſouthern parts are formed only of a piece of bark four yards long, faſten⯑ed [469] together at each end, and the middle kept open by pieces of wood paſſing from ſide to ſide. In deep water theſe are rowed by pad⯑dles, of about a foot and a half in length, the rower having one in each hand; but in ſhallow water they are puſhed forward by means of a long ſtick. As theſe veſſels are extremely light, and draw very little water, the natives run them on the mud banks in ſearch of ſhell-fiſh, ſome of which, it is probable, they broil and eat as ſoon as they are taken, as it was remark⯑ed, that in the center of theſe veſſels there was uſually a fire burning on a quantity of ſea-weed.

The natives have no tools but a wooden mal⯑let, a kind of wedge, and an adze, made of ſtone, with ſome pieces of coral and ſhells, which may poſſibly be applied to the purpoſes of cutting. They poliſh the points of their lances, and their throwing-ſticks, with the leaves of a tree that appears to be the ficus ri⯑duola, or wild fig, which bites with a ſharp⯑neſs, almoſt equal to that of a raſp.

Four people is the greateſt number that a canoe will contain, and when more than this number were to paſs a river, three were landed out of the firſt freight, and one man went back [...]r the reſt.

That the natives of this country ſometimes [...]ge war with each other is evident, from their being poſſeſſed of ſhields and weapons; yet [...]ot a ſingle wound was ſeen on any of their bo⯑dies: [470] and, if they are neither deſtroyed in war, nor carried off by famine, it will be difficult to form a judgment by what means the number of the inhabitants are ſo reduced, as to ſubſiſt on the products of the country: after all, it will, perhaps, be beſt to attribute this circumſtance to the wiſdom of that Providence, which diſtri⯑butes all its bleſſings with the moſt unbounded goodneſs, and the moſt conſummate wiſdom.