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SIR HENRY LEE, Knt.
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OF LONDON.

DOMINE DIRIGE NOS.

LONDON. Printed for ROBT. FAULDER, No. 42, New Bond Street. MDCCXC.

ADVERTISEMENT.

[iii]

THIS work is compoſed from the obſervations of perhaps half my life, made without the leſt original view of publication, from the numberleſs walks taken in and about our capital, with a mind occupied with more ideas than the frivolous viſit, or the mere object of the hour.

SOME were made in company of different friends, ſtricken, like myſelf, with the love of the ſcience of antiquities; and with the deſire of tracing the progreſs of perhaps the firſt city (comparing all its advantages) in the univerſe.

THE remarks made in theſe latter walks [iv] were committed to my tablets till they became rather conſiderable. In that ſtate I determined to lay them before the public, not urged by deſire of friends, nor the wiſh of the people, or any ſimilar motives, but by my own continued propenſity to writing.

I HAVE two things to apologize for in this performance. Firſt, its irregularity: but I do aſſure my friends it is given nearly in the ſame manner in which the materials were collected, and quite according to the courſe of the walk of the day.

Secondly, Let me requeſt the good inhabitants of London and Weſtminſter, not to be offended at my having ſtuffed their Iliad into a nut-ſhell: the account of the city of London, and liberties of Weſtminſter, into a quarto volume. I have condenſed into it all I could; omitted nothing that ſuggeſted itſelf, nor amplified [v] any thing to make it a guinea book. In a word, it is done in my own manner, from which I am grown too old to depart.

I FEEL within myſelf a certain monitor that warns me to hang up my pen in time, before its powers are weakened, and rendered viſibly impaired. I wait not for the admonition of friends. I have the archbiſhop of Grenada in my eye: and fear the imbecility of human nature might produce, in long-worn age, the ſame treatment of my kind adviſers, as poor Gil Blas had from his moſt reverend patron. My literary bequeſts to future times, and more ſerious concerns, muſt occupy the remnant of my days. This cloſes my public labors.

To every particular friend and correſpondent I ſend my moſt cordial thanks, for their candid and unremitted attention to my various enquiries: and for their bearing ſo long with my [vi] yearning after information; and with my uncommon curioſity, without which no writer can proceed with the confidence of accuracy, or ought to lay any thing before the public unſanctioned by local information. So much for acknowlegement of private favors.—I take leave of a partial public, with the trueſt gratitude for its long endurance of my very voluminous writings: for its kind foſtering my few merits: for its affected blindneſs to my numerous defects. The laſt act concluded!

Valete et Plaudite. THOMAS PENNANT.

INSTRUCTIONS TO THE BOOK-BINDER.

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  • Frontiſpiece, SIR HENRY LEE; ſee p. 96.
  • Page 98, ROBERT DUDLEY, Earl of LEICESTER, armed for the Tilt-yard.
  • 100, Cabinet of CHARLES I. and part of Old Whitehall.
  • 103, The Old Horſe Guards.
  • 136, The SAVOY Hoſpital.
  • 191, Ruins of the Church of St. JAMES'S, CLERKENWELL.
  • 193, St. JOHN'S GATE.
  • 218, The Gigantic PORTER, and Little HUDSON, the Dwarf, in Newgate-ſtreet.
  • The BOAR'S HEAD Sign in EASTCHEAP.
  • 219, The Sculpture of the Boy in Pannier Ally.
  • 221, ALDERSGATE, and part of the Walls and Towers on each ſide, taken from a very antient Drawing in the archives of St. Bartholomew's: communicated by Doctor COMBE.
  • 389, Sir RICHARD CLOUGH, knight, from the original in poſſeſſion of Mrs. CLOUGH, of Glan y wern, in the county of Denbigh.
  • 416, The antient Hall at CROSBIE PLACE.—N. B. This, and the prints at pp. 136, 191, 193, 218, and 219, drawn and etched by Mr. John Carter.
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LONDON and WESTMINSTER in the Reign of QUEEN ELIZABETH, Anno Dom. 1563.

LONDINUM ANTIQUA.

This Plan shows the ancient [...] of the famous [...] of London & Westminster as it was near the beginning of the Reign of Queen Elizabeth [...] Plates [...]or their [...] are re-engraved to oblige the Curious & [...] [...]nd to Posterity th [...] Old prospect whereby at one view may be seen, how much was built of this populous City, and parts adjacent, at that time.

[...] in [...] Antiqua published in 1 [...]78 says Near ten years past the Author made a doubt,

whether to print or lay this work aside,
Until he first had [...]ondon platted out.

The following Buildings were not [...] when this Plan [...].

  • The Whitehall Banquetting House
  • Royal [...]hange not [...]uilt before 1 [...]70.
  • Moor Fields not divided nor pla [...]ed
  • [...]am [...]s [...] on Snow [...]ill in 1 [...]8 [...]
  • Puget Plan [...] till the death of [...].•• Puget 15 [...].
  • A St. Margaret
  • B Palace Gates
  • C Gates
  • D Fountain
  • E St. Mary [...]ou [...]ival
  • F St. Mar [...]in [...]s
  • G Walks
  • H Temple Gate
  • I Bridewell Palace
  • K City Walls

OF LONDON.

[1]

WHENSOEVER a party of the original inhabitants of this iſland found an impulſe towards civilization;ESTABLISHMENT OF A BRITISH TOWN. to withdraw from their native dens in depth of woods, and to form ſociety; they cleared a ſpot in the midſt of their foreſts, and founded their towns, ſimilar to thoſe which the firſt diſcoverers of the new world met with occupied by the ſavages of America *; ſimilar to, but probably inferior in oeconomy to thoſe of the more poliſhed race of Pholey Negroes of Guinea. The Britons ſoon found the danger of living in families ſeparated and undefended. They ſought for ſecurity in places ſurrounded with woods or moraſſes, and added to the natural ſtrength by forming ramparts and ſinking foſſes . But they preferred ſpots fortified by nature; and made artificial works only where [2] nature ſhewed herſelf deficient. Within ſuch precincts they formed their towns; their buildings were moſt mean and ſimple, covered with reeds or ſticks like American wigwams, or like modern hovels of the peaſants of Lo [...]haber, or the cabins of the Iriſh commonalty, to this moment as rude as the Britiſh aborigines. To theſe precincts the Britons reſorted with their cattle, their wives and children *, whom they left thus protected, while they ſallied out to war, or to the employments of the chace: for their cloathing was the ſkins of beaſts, and their food the fleſh, with the addition of milk, and farinaceous diet. The Britons ſoon became acquainted with one great uſe of the cow, notwithſtanding they remained ignorant of the making of cheeſe till the arrival of the Romans. Agriculture was ſoon introduced among thoſe who earlieſt formed towns or communities: poſſibly by ſtrangers who viſited them from the continent. They cleared the land in the neighborhood of their dwellings, they ſowed corn, they reaped and depoſited it in granaries under ground, as the Sicilians practiſe to this very day; but the latter lodged it in the grain, our predeceſſors in the ear, out of which they picked the grains as they wanted them, and, ignorant of mills, at firſt bruiſed, and then made them into a coarſe bread. The ſame nation who taught them the art of agriculture, firſt introduced a change of dreſs. From the Gauls of the continent, they received the firſt cloth; the dreſs called the Bracha, a coarſe woollen manufacture. But probably it was long before they learned the uſe of the loom, or became their own manufacturers. This intercourſe [3] layed the foundation of commerce, which in early times extended no farther than to our maritime places. They firſt received the rudiments of civilization, while the more remote remained, in proportion to their diſtance, more and more ſavage, or in a ſtate of nature. In the ſame degree as the neighboring Gauls became acquainted with the arts, they communicated them to the neareſt Britiſh coloniſts; who, derived from the ſame ſtock, and retaining the ſame language and manners, were more capable and willing to receive any inſtructions offered by a congenerous people. For this reaſon Cantium, the modern Kent, and probably the country for ſome way up the Thames, was, as Caeſar informs us, far the moſt civilized of any part of Britain: and that the inhabitants differed very little in their manner of life from the Gauls. It was from the merchants who frequented our ports, he received the firſt intelligence of the nature of our country, which induced him to undertake the invaſion of Britain, and which in aftertimes layed the foundation of its conqueſt by the Romans.

THERE is not the leſt reaſon to doubt but that London exiſted at that period, and was a place of much reſort.LONDON. It ſtood in ſuch a ſituation as the Britons would ſelect, according to the rule they eſtabliſhed. An immenſe foreſt originally extended to the river ſide, and even as late as the reign of Henry II. covered the northern neighborhood of the city, and was filled with various ſpecies of beaſts of chace *. It was defended naturally by foſſes; one formed by the creek which ran along Fleet-ditch, the other, afterwards known by that of Walbrook. The ſouth ſide was [4] guarded by the Thames. The north they might think ſufficiently protected by the adjacent foreſt.

LONDON STONE.NEAR St. Swithin's church is a remnant of antiquity, which ſome have ſuppoſed to have been Britiſh; a ſtone, which might have formed a part of a Druidical circle, or ſome other object of the antient religion, as it is placed near the center of the Roman precincts. Others have conjectured it to have been a milliary ſtone, and to have ſerved as a ſtandard, from which they began to compute their miles. This ſeems very reaſonable, as the diſtances from the neighboring places coincide very exactly. At all times it has been preſerved with great care, was placed deep in the ground, and ſtrongly faſtened with bars of iron. It ſeems preſerved like the Palladium of the city. It is at preſent caſed like a relique, within free-ſtone, with a hole left in the middle, which diſcovers the original. Certainly ſuperſtitious reſpect had been payed to it; for when the notorious rebel Jack Cade paſſed by it, after he had forced his way into the city, he ſtruck his ſword on London ſtone, ſaying, "Now is Mortimer lord of this citie *;" as if that had been a cuſtomary ceremony of taking poſſeſſion.

WHEN FOUNDED.THERE is every reaſon to ſuppoſe that the Romans poſſeſſed themſelves of London in the reign of Claudius; under whom Aulus Plautius took Camalcdunum, the preſent Maldon, in Eſſex, and planted there a colony, conſiſting of veterans of the fourteenth legion, about a hundred and five years after the firſt invaſion of our iſland by Caeſar. This was the firſt footing the Romans had in Britain. It ſeems certain that London and Verulam [5] were taken poſſeſſion of about the ſame time; but the laſt clames the honor of being of a far earlier date, more opulent, populous, and a royal ſeat before the conqueſt of Britain. Camalodunum was made a Colonia, or a place governed entirely by Roman laws and cuſtoms; Verulamium, a Municipium, in which the natives were honored with the privileges of Roman citizens, and enjoyed their own laws and conſtitutions; and Londinium, ONLY A PRAEFECTURA. only a Praefectura, the inhabitants, a mixture of Romans and Britons, being ſuffered to enjoy no more than the name of citizens of Rome, being governed by Praefects ſent annually from thence, without having either their own laws or magiſtrates. It was even then of ſuch concourſe, and ſuch vaſt trade, that the wiſe conquerors did not think fit to truſt the inhabitants with the ſame privileges as other places, of which they had leſs reaſon to be jealous.

THERE is no mention of this important place, till the reign of Tiberius; when Tacitus ſpeaks of it as not having been diſtinguiſhed as a colony, but famous for its great concourſe of merchants, and its vaſt commerce: this indicates, at leſt, that London had been at that time of ſome antiquity as a trading town. The exports from hence were cattle, hides, and corn; dogs made a ſmall article; and, let me add, that ſlaves were a conſiderable object. Our internal parts were on a level with the African ſlave coaſts; and wars among the petty monarchs were promoted for the ſake of a traffic now ſo ſtrongly controverted *. The imports were at firſt ſalt, earthen ware, and works in braſs,IMPORTS. poliſhed bits of bones emulating ivory, horſe-collars, toys of amber, and glaſſes, and other articles of the ſame material . We [6] need not inſiſt on the commerce of this period, for there was a great trade carried on with the Gauls in the days of Caeſar: that celebrated invader aſſigning, as his reaſon for attempting this iſland, the vaſt ſupplies which we gave to his Gauliſh enemies *, and which interrupted his conqueſts on the continent.

WHEN FIRST MENTIONED.THE firſt mention of London was occaſioned by a calamity, in the year 61, in the reign of Nero, which nearly occaſioned the extinction of the Roman power in Britain. The heroine Boadicia, indignant at the perſonal inſult offered to her and her family, and the cruelties of the conquerors to the unhappy Britons, made a ſudden revolt, and deſtroyed Camolodunum, after putting all the coloniſts to the ſword. Tacitus gives us the prediction of the ruin of that city, with all the majeſty of hiſtorical ſuperſtition. ‘Nulla palàm cauſa delapſum Camaloduni ſimulacrum victoriae, ac retro converſum, quaſi cederet hoſtibus. Et foeminae in furore turbatae, adeſſe exitium canebant. Externoſque fremitus in curiâ eorum auditos, conſonuiſſe ululatibus theatrum, viſamque ſpeciem in aeſtuario, notam eſſe ſubverſae coloniae. Jam oceanum cruento aſpectu: dilabente aeſtu, humanorum corporum effigies relictas, ut BRITANNI ad ſpem ita veterani ad metum trahebant.’

THE Roman general Paulinus Suetonius, on this news, ſuddenly marched acroſs the kingdom, from his conqueſts in North Wales, to London; which, finding himſelf unequal to defend with his ſmall army, he evacuated to the fury of the enemy, after reinforcing his troops with all the natives who were fit to ſerve. Neither the tears nor prayers of the inhabitants could prevale on [7] him to give them his protection.DESTROYED BY THE BRITON [...] The enraged Boadicia deſtroyed all who continued behind. Verulamium met with the ſame fate. In all the three places ſeventy thouſand Romans and Britiſh allies periſhed*.

WHEN the Romans became maſters of London, ENLARGED BY THE ROMANS. they enlarged the precincts, and altered their form. It extended in length from Ludgate-hill to a ſpot a little beyond the Tower. The breadth was not half equal to the length, and at each end grew conſiderably narrower. Mr. Maitland ſuſpects that the walls were not built till a very late period of the empire, and that it was an open town; becauſe the city happened to be ſurprized,LONG AN OPEN TOWN. in the days of Diocleſian and Maximilian, by a party of banditti, who were cut off by a band of Roman ſoldiers, who fortunately had, at the very time they were engaged in the plunder, come up the river in a fog. The time in which the wall was built is very uncertain. Some aſcribe the work to Conſtantine the great.WHEN WALLED. Maitland, to Theodoſius, governor of Britain in 369. As to the laſt, we know no more, than that, after he had cleared the country of the barbarians, he redreſſed grievances, ſtrengthened the garriſons, and repaired the cities and forts which had been damaged. If London was among thoſe, it certainly implies a prior fortification. Poſſibly their founder might have been Conſtantine, as numbers of coins of his mother Helena have been diſcovered under them placed there by him in compliment to her. To ſupport this conjecture, we may ſtrengthen it by ſaying, that in honor of this empreſs, the city, about that time, [8] received from her the title of Auguſta; which, for ſome time, ſuperſeded the antient one of Londinium. Long before this period, it was fully romanized, and the cuſtoms, manners, buildings, and arts of the conqueror adopted. The commerce of the empire flowed in regularly; came in a direct channel from the ſeveral parts then known, not as in the earlier days (when deſcribed by Strabo) by the intervention of other nations; for till the ſettlement of the Roman conqueſt, nothing could come immediately from Italy. The antient courſe of the walls was as follows:—It began with a fort near the preſent ſite of the Tower, EXTENT AND FORM. was continued along the Minories, and the back of Houndſditch, acroſs Biſhopſgate ſtreet, in a ſtrait line by London-wall to Cripplegate; then returned ſouthward by Crowder's Well Alley, (where ſeveral remnants of lofty towers were lately to be ſeen) to Alderſgate; thence along the back of Bull and Mouth ſtreet to Newgate, and again along the back of the houſes in the Old Bailey to Ludgate; ſoon after which it probably finiſhed with another fort, where the houſe, late the King's Printing Houſe, in Black Friars, now ſtands: from hence another wall ran near the river-ſide, along Thames ſtreet, quite to the fort on the eaſtern extremity. In another place I ſhall have occaſion to mention that the river at preſent is moved conſiderably more to the ſouth, than it was in the times in queſtion.

TOWERS.THE walls were three miles a hundred and ſixty-five feet in circumference, guarded at proper diſtances, on the land ſide, with fifteen lofty towers; ſome of them were remaining within theſe few years, and poſſibly may ſtill. Maitland mentions one, twenty-ſix feet high, near Gravel-lane, on the weſt ſide of Houndſditch; another, about eighty paces ſouth-eaſt towards Aldgate; and the [9] baſes of another, ſupporting a modern houſe, at the lower end of the ſtreet called the Vineyard, ſouth of Aldgate. But ſince his publication, they have been demoliſhed, ſo that there is not a trace left. The walls, when perfect, are ſuppoſed to have been twenty-two feet high, the towers, forty. Theſe, with the remnants of the wall, proved the Roman ſtructure, by the tiles and diſpoſition of the maſonry. London-wall, near Moorfields, is now the moſt entire part left of that ancient precinct.

I MUST not omit the Barbican, A SPECULA. the Specula or Watch-tower belonging to every fortified place. This ſtood a little without the walls, to the north-weſt of Cripplegate.

THE gates, which received the great military roads, were four.THE GATES. The Praetorian way, the Saxon Watling ſtreet, paſſed under one, on the ſite of the late Newgate; veſtiges having been diſcovered of the road in digging above Holborn-bridge: it turned down to Dow-gate, or more properly Dwr-gate or Water-gate, where there was a Trajectus or Ferry, to join it to the Watling ſtreet, which was continued to Dover. The Hermin ſtreet paſſed under Cripplegate; and a vicinal way went under Aldgate, by Bethnal Green, towards Oldford, a paſs over the river Lee to Duroleiton, the modern Leiton, in Eſſex.

IN moſt parts of antient London, ANTIQUITIES. Roman antiquities have been found, whenever it has been thought neceſſary to dig to any conſiderable depth. Beneath the old Saint Mary le Bow were found the walls, windows, and pavement of a Roman Temple; and not far from it, eighteen feet deep in adventitious ſoil, was the Roman cauſeway. The great elevation of the preſent ground above its former ſtate, will be taken notice of in another place.

IN digging the foundation for the rebuilding of St. Paul's, [10] was found a vaſt coemetery: firſt lay the Saxons, in graves lined with chalk-ſtones, or in coffins of hollowed ſtones; beneath them had been the bodies of the Britons, placed in rows. Abundance of ivory and boxen pins, about ſix inches long, marked their place. Theſe were ſuppoſed to have faſtened the ſhrouds in which the bodies were wrapped*. Theſe periſhing, left the pins entire. In the ſame row, but deeper, were Roman urns intermixed, lamps, lacrymatories; fragments of ſacrificial veſſels were alſo diſcovered, in digging towards the north-eaſt corner; and in 1675, not far from the eaſt corner, at a conſiderable depth, beneath ſome flinty pavement, were found numbers of veſſels of earthen ware, and of glaſs, of moſt exquiſite colors and beauty, ſome inſcribed with the names of deities, heroes, or men of rank. Others ornamented with variety of figures in bas relief, of animals and of roſe-trees. Teſulae of jaſper, porphyry, or marble, ſuch as form the pavement we ſo often ſee, were alſo diſcovered. Alſo glaſs beads and rings, large pins of ivory and bone, tuſks of boars, and horns of deer ſawn through. Alſo coins of different emperors, among them ſome of Conſtantine; which at once deſtroys the conjecture of Mr. Maitland, who ſuppoſes that this collection were flung together at the ſacking of London by our injured Boadicia.

IN 1711, another coemetery was diſcovered, in Camomile ſtreet, adjoining to Biſhopſgate. It lay beneath a handſome teſſelated pavement, and contained numbers of urns filled with aſhes and cinders of burnt bones; with them were beads, rings, a lacrymatory, a fibula, and a coin of Antoninus.

IN SPITTLEFIELDS.IN Spittlefields was another Roman burying-place, of which [11] many curious particulars are mentioned by old Stow, in p. 323 of his Survey of London: and Camden gives a brief account of another, diſcovered in Goodman's fields. Among thoſe ſound in Spittlefields, was a great oſſuary made of glaſs, encompaſſed with five parallel circles, and containing a gallon and a half; it had a handle, a very ſhort neck, and wide mouth of a whiter metal. This was preſented to Sir Chriſtopher Wren, who lodged it in the Muſeum of the Royal Society*. I point out theſe as means of diſcovering the antient Roman precincts of the city. The coemeteries muſt have been without the walls: it being a wiſe and expreſs law of the XII tables, that no one ſhould be buried within the walls. I cannot think that the urns found near St. Paul's were funebrial; if that ſhould have been the caſe, the Roman walls muſt have been much farther to the eaſt than they have been placed, which by no means appears to have been the fact.

I WILL only mention two other antiquities found here: very few indeed have been preſerved, out of the multitude which muſt have been found in a place of ſuch importance, and the capital of the Roman empire in Britain. The firſt is a ſepulchral monument, in memory of Vivins Marcianus, (a Roman ſoldier of the ſecond legion, quartered here) erected by his wife Januaria Matrina. His ſculpture repreſents him as a Britiſh ſoldier, probably of the Cohors Britonum, dreſſed and armed after the manner of the country, with long hair, a ſhort lower garment faſtened round the waiſt by a girdle and fibula, a long Sagum or plaid flung over his breaſt and one arm, ready to be caſt off in time of action, naked legs, and in his right hand a ſword of vaſt length, [] [...] [] [...] [10] [...] [11] [...] [12] like the [...]lymore of the later Highlanders; the point is repreſented reſting on the ground: in his left hand is a ſhort inſtrument, with the end ſeemingly broken off. This ſculpture was found in digging among the ruins, after the fire in 16 [...]6, in the vallum of the Pr [...]t [...]ion camp near L [...]dgate. The ſoldiers were always buried in the [...]ll [...]; the citizens in the Pe [...]rium *, without the gates. It is very differently repreſented by Mr. Gale. The hair in his figure is ſhort, the ſword alſo ſhort, and held with the left hand acroſs his body, the inſtrument is placed in the left hand, and reſembles an exact Bet [...]: the [...]ſs alſo differs. I give the preference to the figure given by Mr. Herſ [...]ly , which he corrected after the figure given by Doctor Prid [...]x, from the Arundelian marbles. But Mr. H [...]ſely fairly confeſſes that the repreſentation is far more elegant than in the mutilated original.

SAXON INVATION.AFTER the Romans deſerted Britain, a new and fierce race ſucceeded. The warlike Saxons, under their leaders Hengeſt and Horſa, landed in 448, at Upwines fleot, the preſent Ebbsflete, in the iſle of Thanet. The Britons remained maſters of London at leſt nine years after that event; for, receiving a defeat in 457, at Creccanford, (Crayford) they evacuated Kent, and fled with great fear to the capital . By the year 604, it ſeems to have recovered from the ravages of the invaders. It became the chief town of the kingdom of Eſſex. Sebert was the firſt Chriſtian king; and his maternal uncle Ethelbert, king of Kent, founded here a church dedicated to St. Paul. At this time Bede informs us [13] that it was an emporium of a vaſt number of nations, who reſorted there by ſea and by land.

IN the reign of that great prince ALFRED, London, or, to uſe the Saxon name, Lundenburg, was made by him capital of all England. In conſequence of a vow he had made, he ſent Sighelm, biſhop of Sherbourn, firſt to Rome, and from thence to India, with alms to the Chriſtians of the town of St. Thomas, now called Bekkeri, or Meliapour: who returned with various rich gems, ſome of which were to be ſeen in the church of Sherbourn, in the days of William of Malmeſbury *. It muſt not be omitted that he was the firſt who, from this iſland, had any commerce with that diſtant country. Our commerce by ſea, even in the next century, was not very extenſive, the wiſe monarch Athelſtan being obliged, for the encouragement of navigation, to promiſe patents of gentility to every merchant, who ſhould, on his own bottom, make three voyages to the Mediterranean.

THE ſucceeding ravages of the Danes reduced London, NORMAN CONQUEST. and its commerce, to a low ebb: yet it ſeems in ſome meaſure to have recovered itſelf before the Conqueſt. We are wonderfully in the dark reſpecting its ſtate of government, both in the Saxon period, and that of the Conqueſt: in reſpect to the former, we know no more than that it was governed by a Portreve or Portgrave, LONG GOVERNED BY A PORTGRAVE. or guardian of the port; and this we learn from the conciſe charter granted to the city by William the Conqueror, in which he ſalutes William the biſhop, and Godfrey the Portreve, and all the burgeſſes. ‘WILLM̄ kyng griet Willm̄ biſshop and Godfreg' porteren and eall the boroughwaren bynnen London franchiſce and engliſce [14] jich kyd eth yr jck yell yr gret bē ealbra yeara laga yee die ye gret yer anen EDWARDIS dage kinge end ick yll yet ſulke childe be his fader yr faum achter his fader dage and ick nel geyolian that ening man eche doig prungbede. God ye behelde*.’ It is probable that the biſhop of London for the time being, and the Portgrave, were united in the government, for in the Saxon charters they are mentioned together: in the time of Edward the Confeſſor, Alſwar the biſhop, and Wolfgar my Portgrave. William biſhop, and Swerman my Portgrave.

LONDON certainly could not have been in the very low condition which ſome writers repreſent it to have been, at the time of the Conqueſt. It had ventured to ſally out on the Conqueror, but without ſucceſs. It fell more by internal faction, than its own weakneſs; yet there was ſtrength enough left, to make William think proper to ſecure their allegiance, by building that ſtrong fortreſs the Tower. In ſeventy years from that event, an hiſtorian of that period pretends, that London muſtered ſixty thouſand foot, and twenty thouſand horſe. If this is any thing near the truth, is it poſſible but London muſt have been very powerful at the time of the Conqueſt? for the reigns between that period and of Stephen, were not well calculated for a great increaſe of population. I rather concur with them who think that the muſter muſt have been of the militia of the neighboring counties, and London the place of rendezvous. A writer of that period, and at the very time reſident in the capital, with [15] more appearance of truth, makes the number of inhabitants only forty thouſand.

DURING the time of the Conqueror, and till the reign of Richard I. the name of the civil governor continued the ſame. That monarch, to ſupport the madneſs of the cruſade, received from the citizens a large ſum of money; and in return, permitted them to chuſe annually two officers, under the name of bailiffs, or ſheriffs; who were to ſuperſede the former. The names of the two firſt upon record are Wolgarius, and Geffry de Magnum.

IN the next reign was added the office of mayor,CHANGED TO A MAYOR. a title borrowed from the Norman Maire, as well as the office. Henry Fitz-alwyn was the firſt elected [...]o that truſt. He had been before mayor, but only by the nomination of his prince.

IN the reign of Henry III. after the citizens had ſuffered many oppreſſions, he reſtored a form of government, and appointed twenty-four citizens to ſhare the power. In his ſon's reign, we find the city divided into twenty-four wards; the ſupreme magiſtrate of which was named Alderman, ALDERMEN. an exceeding antient Saxon title. Aelder-man, a man advanced in years, and accordingly ſuppoſed to be of ſuperior wiſdom and gravity. In the time of Edgar, the office was among the firſt in the kingdom. Ailwyn, anceſtor to the firſt mayor, was alderman of all England; what the duties of his office were, does not appear.

HE muſt be a Briarcus in literature, who would dare to attempt a hiſtory of our capital, on the great, the liberal, the elegant plan which it merits. I, a puny adventurer, animated with a mind incapable of admitting a vacant hour; reſtleſs when unemployed in the rural ſcenes to which my fortunate lot has deſtined me, muſt catch and enjoy the idea of the minute. In the [16] purſuit of my plan, I wiſh to give a ſlight view of the ſhores I am about to launch from: the account muſt be brief and confined, limited to what I ſhall ſay of their antient ſtate, to the period bounded by the REVOLUTION; intermixed with the greater events, which have happened in nearer days.

THE choice of the ſituation of this great city was moſt judicious. It is on a gravelly ſoil; and on a declivity down to the borders of a magnificent river. The ſlope is evident in every part of the antient city, and the vaſt modern buildings. The antient city was defended in front by the river; on the weſt ſide by the deep ravine, ſince known by the name of Fleet-ditch; on the north by moraſſes; on the eaſt, as I ſuſpect, by another ravine. All the land round Weſtminſter Abbey was a flat ſen, which continued beyond Fulham: but a riſe commences oppoſite to it, and forms a magnificent bend above the curvature of the Thames, even to the Tower. The Surry ſide was in all probability a great expanſe of water, a lake, a Llyn, as the Welſh call it; which an ingenious countryman of mine*, not without reaſon, thinks might have given a name to our capital; Llyn Din, or the city on the lake. This moſt probably was the original name: and that derived from Llong a ſhip, and Din a town, might have been beſtowed when the place became a ſeat of trade, and famous for the concourſe of ſhipping. The expanſe of water might have filled the ſpace between the riſing grounds at Deptfor and thoſe at Clapham; and been bounded to the ſouth by the beautiful Surry Hills. Lambeth Marſh, and the Bank Side, evidently were recovered from the water. Along Lambeth are the names of Narrow [17] Walls, or the mounds which ſerved for that purpoſe; and in South-wark, Bankſide again ſhews the means of converting the antient lake into uſeful land: even to this day the tract beyond South-wark, and in particular that beyond Bermondſey ſtreet, is ſo very low, and beneath the level of common tides, that the proprietors are obliged to ſecure it by embankments.

I BEGIN my account by croſſing over the Thames into Surry, SURRY. which, with Suſſex, formed the country of the antient Regni, being part of this iſland to which the Romans permitted a kingly government, merely to enjoy the inſolent boaſt of having kings as their ſlaves. The Saxons beſtowed on this part their own names of Suthry or Suthrea, from its ſituation on the ſouthern part of the river. I proceed to my accuſtomed walk of LAMBETH.LAMBETH. In the earlier times it was a manor, poſſibly a royal one, for the great Hardiknut died here in 1042, in the midſt of the jollity of a wedding dinner: and here, without any formality, the uſurper Harold is ſaid to have ſnatched the crown, and placed it on his own head. At that period it was part of the eſtate of Goda, wife to Walter earl of Mantes, and Euſtace earl of Boulogne; who preſented it to the church of Rocheſter, but reſerved to herſelf the patronage of the church. It became, in 1197, the property of the ſee of Canterbury, by exchange tranſacted between Glanville biſhop of Rocheſter, and the archbiſhop Hubert Walter. Glanville reſerved out of the exchange a ſmall piece of land, on which he built a houſe called Rocheſter Place, for the reception of the biſhops of Rocheſter, whenever they came to attend parlement. In 1357, John de Shepey built Stangate ſtairs, for the convenience of himſelf and retinue to croſs over into Weſtminſter. Fiſher and [18] Hilſley were the laſt biſhops who inhabited this palace; after their deaths it fell into the hands of Henry VIII. who exchanged with Aldridge biſhop of Carliſte, for certain houſes in the Strand. Its name was changed to that of Carliſle houſe *. The ſmall houſes built on its ſite ſtill belong to that ſee. It had been the deſign of archbiſhop Walter, A COLLEGE OF SECULAR MONKS PROJECTED HERE to have erected here a college of ſecular monks, independent of thoſe of Canterbury. It was originally deſigned, by archbiſhop Baldwyn, to have been built at Hackington, near that city: but ſuch a jealouſy did thoſe holy men conceive at the thought of a rival houſe ſo near to their own, that by their intereſt with the pope the project was layed aſide. It was afterwards reſumed by Hubert Walter, who thought he could give no offence by erecting the college on this diſtant manor; but the monks obtaining a bull from the pope in their favor, and ſuch humiliating terms preſcribed to the archbiſhop, that from thenceforth he entirely deſiſted from the deſign . The mortifications which the primates met with in the proſecution, ſeem to have firſt determined them in fixing their reſidence here. Walter and Langton ſucceſſively lived at the manor-houſe of Lambeth. The laſt improved it, but the building was afterwards neglected and became ruinous. No pious zeal reſtored the place, but the madneſs of prieſtly pride. Boniface, a wrathful and turbulent primate, elected in 1244, took it into his head to become a viſitor of the priory of St. Bartholomew, to which he had no right. The monks met him with reverential reſpect, but aſſured him the office did not belong to the biſhop. The meek prelate ruſhed on the ſub-prior, knocked him down, [19] kicked, beat, and buffeted him, tore the cope off his back, and ſtamped on it like one poſſeſſed, while his attendants payed the ſame compliments to all the poor monks. The people, enraged at his unprieſtly conduct, would have torn him to pieces; when he retired to Lambeth, and, by way of expiation, rebuilt it with great magnificence.

THIS palace was very highly improved by the munificent Henry Chichely, who enjoyed the primacy from 1414 to 1443. I lament to find ſo worthy a man to have been the founder of a building ſo reproachful to his memory as the Lollards tower, at the expence of near two hundred and eighty pounds. Neither proteſtants or catholics ſhould omit viſiting this tower, the cruel priſon of the unhappy followers of Wickliffe. The vaſt ſtaples and rings, to which they were chained before they were brought to the ſtake, ought to make proteſtants bleſs the hour which freed them from ſo bloody a religion. Catholics may glory, that time has ſoftened their zeal into charity for all ſects, and made them bluſh at theſe memorials of the miſguided zeal of our anceſtors.

THIS palace ſuffered greatly in the civil wars. After thoſe of York and Lancaſter, it was reſtored by archbiſhop Morton. He alſo built the gateway; in the lower room of which are ſtill to be ſeen the rings to which the overflowings of the Lollards tower were chained.

AFTER the civil wars of the laſt century,FANATICAL FURY. when fanatical was united with political fury, it was found that every building devoted to piety, had ſuffered more than they had done in all the rage of family conteſt. The fine works of art, and the ſacred memorials of the dead, were, except in a few caſes, ſacrificed to [20] puritanical barbariſm, or to ſacrilegious plunder. Lambeth tell to the ſhare of the miſcreant regicide Scot. He turned the chapel into a hall, and levelled, for that purpoſe, the fine monument of archbiſhop Parker: he pulled down the noble hall, the work of Chichely, and ſold the materials for his own profit. Juxon, on the Reſtoration, found the palace of his predeceſſors a heap of ruins. His piety rebuilt a greater part than could have been expected from the ſhort time he enjoyed the primacy. He rebuilt the great hall on the antient model, when the archbiſhop with his particular friends ſat at the high table: the ſteward with the ſervants, who were gentry of the better rank, ſat at the table on the right hand ſide: the almoner, the clergy, and others, occupied the table on the left. None but nobility or privy counſellors were admitted to the table of the archbiſhop. The biſhops themſelves ſat at the almoner's; the other gueſts at the ſteward's. All the meat which was not conſumed, was regularly given to the idle poor, who waited in crowds at the gate. It is not the defect of charity in modern prelates that this cuſtom is difuſed; but the happy change in the times. Every one muſt now eat the bread of his own induſtry; a much more certain ſupport than the caſual bounty of the great; which misfortunes often prevented, and left the object a prey to miſery and famine. What is ſtyled the luxury of the times, has by no means ſuperſeded deeds of alms. Wealth is more equally diffuſed; but charity is equally great: it paſſes now through many channels, and makes leſs noiſe than when it was poured through fewer ſtreams.

LIBRARY.THE fine library in this palace was founded by archbiſhop Bancroft; who died in 1610, and left all his books to his ſucceſſors, for ever. The ſucceeding archbiſhop, Abbot, bequeathed all his [21] books in his great ſtudy, marked C. C. in the ſame unlimited manner.

ON the ſuppreſſion of epiſcopacy, this valuable library was preſerved by the addreſs of the celebrated Mr. Selden. It ſeems that archbiſhop Bancroft had left his books to his ſucceſſors, on condition that the immediate ſucceſſor was to give bond that they ſhould not be embezzled; but delivered entire from one to the other for ever. On failure of this article, they were to go to Chelſea College, in caſe it was built in ſix years after his deceaſe. The college never was finiſhed: but whether any of Bancroft's ſucceſſors gave the ſecurity does not appear. The books were remaining at Lambeth in 1646, two years after the execution of archbiſhop Laud; when probably fearing for their ſafety in times ſo inimical to learning, Mr. Selden ſuggeſted to the univerſity of Cambridge their right to the books; and the whole were delivered into their poſſeſſion. On the Reſtoration, archbiſhop Juxon demanded the return of the library; which was repeated by his ſucceſſor Sheldon, as founded on the will of the pious founder: and they were reſtored accordingly. Archbiſhop Sheldon added a conſiderable number: and archbiſhop Teniſon augmented it with part of his books.

THAT very worthy prelate archbiſhop Secker, beſides a conſiderable ſum expended on making catalogues to the old regiſters of the ſee, left to the library all ſuch books from his own, as were not in the former, which comprehended much the largeſt and moſt valuable part of his own collection.

ARCHBISHOP Cornwallis beſtowed many valuable books in his life-time. And the preſent archbiſhop has given a conſiderable ſum for fitting up a proper repoſitory for the valuable collection [22] of manuſcripts. The whole number of printed books amounts to twenty-five thouſand.

THE other apartments have within theſe few years received conſiderable improvements.G [...]S The great gallery, which is near ninety feet long by fifteen feet nine inches broad, has lately had the addition of a bow window, by the preſent amiable primate. An opening has been made towards the river, by the cutting down of a few trees, which admits a moſt beautiful view of the water, part of the bridge, and of the venerable abbey. This gallery is filled with portraits of primates or prelates, among others, that of cardinal Pole, the founder of this very room. Over the chimney are the heads of thoſe of the earlier times, ſuch as archbiſhop Warham, by Holbein; St. Dunſtan, and archbiſhop Chichely: the firſt imaginary, the laſt probably taken from painted glaſs. Among theſe diſtinguiſhed characters, Katherine Parr has found a place, and not without juſt clame; it being reaſonable to ſuppoſe, but for the death of her tyrant, ſhe would have been devoted to the ſtake for the favor ſhe bore to the reformed religion. I muſt not omit mention of the two portraits of archbiſhop Parker, ſecond primate of the proteſtant religion; one is by Holbein, the other by Richard Lyne, who jointly practiſed the arts of painting and engraving in the ſervice of this great patron of ſcience *.

IN the dining-room is a ſucceſſion of primates, from the violent and imprudent Laud to the quiet and diſcreet Cornwallis. The portrait of Laud is admirably done by Vandyke; Juxon, from a good original which I ſaw laſt year at Longleate; Teniſon, by Simon Dubois; Herring, by Hogarth; Hutton, by Hudſon; Secker, [23] by Reynolds; and Cornwallis, by Dance. Here are beſides in the gallery, by the laſt maſter, portraits of Terrick late biſhop of London, and Thomas late biſhop of Wincheſter: and another of biſhop Hoadley, which does honor to the artiſt, his wife, Sarah Curtis. When I looked into the garden I could not but recall the ſcene of conference between the great the wiſe earl of Clarendon, and the unfortunate Laud. Hyde laid before him the reſentment of all ranks of people againſt him for his paſſionate and ill-mannered treatment even of perſons of rank. The primate attended to the honeſt chancellor with patience, and palliated his faults *. The advice was forgotten, nor his folly cured till he had involved himſelf and maſter in deſtruction.

A MORE phlegmatic cohabitant of the garden,LONGEVITY OF A TORTOISE. enjoyed his ſituation during many ſucceſſions to this ſelf-devoted metropolitan. A Tortoiſe, introduced here in his days (in 1633) lived till the year 1753, the time of archbiſhop Herring, and poſſibly might have lived till the preſent, had it not been killed by the negligence of the gardener.

IN the veſtry is a portrait of Luther and his wife; the lady appears pregnant. This great reformer left three ſons, John, Martin, and Paul.

IN one of the apartments of the palace is a performance that does great honor to the ingenious ſpouſe of a modern dignitary; a copy in needlework of a Madonna and child, after a moſt capital performance of the Spaniſh Murillo. There is moſt admirable grace in the original, which was ſold laſt winter at the price of eight hundred guineas . It made me lament that this excellent maſter [24] had waſted ſo much time on beggars and ragged boys. Beautiful as it is, the copy came improved out of the hand of our ſkilful countrywoman; a judicious change of color of part of the drapery, has had a moſt happy effect, and given new excellence to the admired original.

CHURCH.THE pariſh church of Lambeth is at a ſmall diſtance from the palace, has a plain tower, and the architecture of the gothic of the time of Edward IV. It has very little remarkable in it, except the figure of a pedlar and his dog, painted in one of the windows. Tradition ſays, that the pariſh was obliged to this man for the bequeſt of a piece of land, which bears the name of The Pedlar's Acre.

BEFORE I go any farther, let me mention the ſad example of fallen majeſty in the perſon of Mary d'Eſte, the unhappy queen of James II; who flying with her infant prince from the ruin impending over their houſe, after croſſing the Thames from the abdicated Whitehall, took ſhelter beneath the antient walls of this church a whole hour, from the rain of the inclement night of December 6th, 1688. Here ſhe waited with aggravated miſery, till a common coach, procured from the next inn, arrived, and conveyed her to Graveſend, from whence ſhe ſailed, and bid an eternal adieu to theſe kingdoms *.

IN this place reſt from their labors ſeveral of the later primates, without any remarkable monument, except their good works, to preſerve them from oblivion; among them is Bancroft, Teniſon, Hutton; and in a paſſage leading to the palace, are the remains of Secker.

[25]HERE likewiſe was interred the mild, amiable,BISHOP TUNSTAL. and poliſhed prelate Cuthbert Tunſtal, biſhop of Durham, who, deprived on account of his attachment to the old religion, by Edward VI. was reſtored by Mary, and again deprived by Elizabeth: here he found an aſylum in the family of archbiſhop Parker, ſo highly was he eſteemed even by the proteſtants; here he paſſed his days with honor and tranquillity, till his death in 1559.

IN the ſame church are the remains of Thirlebye, BISHOP THIRLEBYE. once biſhop of Ely, deprived for the ſame cauſe by Elizabeth. By the charity of the above-mentioned great prelate, he found the ſame protection as his fellow-ſufferer Tunſtal. To ſhew the humanity of proteſtantiſm, he was indulged with the company of his ſecretary. He merited every favor. Being joined in commiſſion with Bonner for the degradation of Cranmer, he performed his office with as much tenderneſs, as his aſſociate did with brutality, and melted into tears over fallen greatneſs. His body was found in digging the grave for archbiſhop Cornwallis. His long and venerable beard, and every part, was entire, and of a beautiful whiteneſs: a ſlouched hat was under his left arm: his dreſs that of a pilgrim, as he eſteemed himſelf to be upon earth.

A NEAT buſt, with the body in armour, and with artillery,ROBERT SCOT. drums, and trophies around, exhibits the military character of Robert Scot, who entered into the ſervice of Guſtavus Adolphus, and brought with him two hundred men. He was made muſter-maſter general to that hero; afterwards he went into the ſervice of Denmark; and finally, in 1631, cloſed his life in that of Charles I. who made him gentleman of his privy chamber, and beſtowed on him a penſion of ſix hundred a year. He was of the family of the antient barons of Bawtrie, in North Britain; but [26] his character ſurpaſſed his origin.INVENTOR OF LEATHERN ARTILLERY. He was the inventor of leathern artillery, which he introduced into the army of Guſtavus, and by that means contributed highly to the glorious victory of Leipſic. Harte, and other hiſtorians of that illuſtrious prince, ſpeak of the invention and its important ſervices, but were either ignorant of the inventor, or choſe to ſuppreſs his merit *. Tilly himſelf confeſſes the ſuperiority of theſe portable cannons, after his own heavy artillery, ſo admirably ſerved as they were, ſunk under the vivacity of the fire of theſe light pieces.

TOMB OF THE TRADESCANTS.IN the church-yard is a tomb which no naturaliſt ſhould neglect viſiting, that of old John Tradeſcant, who, with his ſon, lived in this pariſh. The elder was the firſt perſon who ever formed a cabinet of curioſities in this kingdom. The father is ſaid to have been gardener to Charles I. But Parkinſon ſays, ‘ſometimes belonging to the right honorable lord Robert earl of Saliſbury, lord treaſurer of England in his time; and then unto the right honorable the lord Wotton, at Canterbury, in Kent; and laſtly unto the late duke of Buckingham .’ Both father and ſon were great travellers; the father is ſuppoſed to have viſited Ruſſia and moſt parts of Europe, Turkey, Greece, many of the eaſtern countries, Egypt, and Barbary; out of which he introduced multitudes of plants and flowers, unknown before in our gardens. His was an age of floriſts: the chief ornaments of the parterres were owing to his labors. Parkinſon continually acknowleges the obligation. Many plants were called after his name: theſe the Linnaean ſyſtem has rendered almoſt obſolete: but the great naturaliſt [27] hath made more than reparation, by giving to a genus of plants the title of TRADESCANTIA *.MUSEUM TRADESCANTIANUM. The Muſeum Tradeſcantianum, a ſmall book, adorned by he hand of Hollar with the heads of the father and the ſon, is a proof of their induſtry. It is a catalogue of their vaſt collection, not only of the ſubjects of the three kingdoms of nature, but of artificial rarities from great variety of countries. The collection of medals, coins, and other antiquities, appears to have been very valuable. Zoology was in their time but in a low ſtate, and credulity far from being extinguiſhed: among the eggs is one ſuppoſed to have been of the dragon, and another of the griffin. You might have found here two feathers of the tail of the phoenix, and the claw of the ruck, a bird able to truſſe an elephant. Notwithſtanding this, the collection was extremely valuable, eſpecially in the vegetable kingdom. In his garden, at his houſe in South Lambeth, THEIR GARDEN. was an amazing arrangement of trees, plants, and flowers. It ſeems to have been particularly rich in thoſe of the eaſt, and of North America. His merit and aſſiduity muſt have been very great; for the eaſtern traveller muſt have labored under great difficulties from the barbarity of the country: and North America had in his time been but recently ſettled. Yet we find the names of numbers of trees and plants ſtill among the rarer of much later times. To him we are alſo indebted for the luxury of many fine fruits; for, as Parkinſon obſerved, ‘The choyſeſt for goodneſſe, and rareſt for knowledge, are to be had of my very good friend Maſter John Tradeſcante, who hath wonderly laboured to obtaine all the rareſt fruits hee can heare off in any place of Chriſtendome, [28] Turky, yea, or the whole world *.’ He lived at a large houſe in this pariſh, and had an extenſive garden, much viſited in his days. After his death, which happened about the year 1652, his collection came into the poſſeſſion of the famous Mr. Elias Aſhmole, by virtue of a deed of gift which Mr. Tradeſcant, junior, had made to him of all his rarities, in true aſtrological form, being dated December 16, 1657, 5 hor. 30 minutes poſt merid. . Mr. Aſhmole alſo purchaſed the houſe, which is ſtill in being, the garden fell to decay. In the year 1749, it was viſited by two reſpectable members of the Royal Society , who found among the ruins ſome trees and plants, which evidently were introduced here by the induſtrious founder. The collection of curioſities were removed by Mr. Aſhmole, to his Muſeum at Oxford, where they are carefully preſerved. Many very curious articles are to be ſeen: among others, ſeveral original dreſſes and weapons of the North Americans, in their original ſtate; which may in ſome period prove ſerviceable in illuſtrating their manners and antiquities.

MONUMENT DESCRIBED.THE monument of the Tradeſcants was erected in 1662, by Heſter, relict of the younger. It is an altar tomb: at each corner is cut a large tree, ſeeming to ſupport the ſlab: at one end is an hydra picking at a bare ſcull, poſſibly deſigned as an emblem of Envy: on the other end are the arms of the family: on one ſide are ruins, Grecian pillars, and capitals; an obeliſk and pyramid, to denote the extent of his travels: and on the oppoſite, a crocodile, [29] and various ſhells, expreſſive of his attention to the ſtudy of natural hiſtory. Time had greatly injured this monument; but in 1773 it was handſomely reſtored, at the pariſh expence; and the inſcription, which was originally deſigned for it, engraven on the ſtone. As it is both ſingular and hiſtorical, I preſent it to the reader.

Know, ſtranger, ere thou paſs, beneath this ſtone
Lye John Tradeſcant, grandſire, father, ſon;
The laſt dy'd in his ſpring; the other two
Liv'd till they had travell'd Art and Nature through,
As by their choice collections may appear,
Of what is rare, in land, in ſea, in air;
Whilſt they (as Homer's Iliad in a nut)
A world of wonders in one cloſet ſhut:
Theſe famous Antiquarians that had been
Both gardiners to the Roſe and Lily Queen,
Tranſplanted now themſelves, ſleep here; and when
Angels ſhall with their trumpets waken men,
And fire ſhall purge the world, theſe hence ſhall riſe,
And change this garden for a paradiſe *.

IN contraſt to theſe innocent characters,GUY FAUX. I ſhall mention that deſperate miſcreant Guy Faux, or Vauxe, as an inhabitant of this pariſh. He lived in a large manſion called Faux-hall, and, as Doctor Ducarel imagines, was lord of the manor of the ſame name. In foreign parts a colonne infame would have been erected on the ſpot: but the ſite is now occupied by Marble-hall, and Cumberland tea-gardens, and ſeveral other buildings.

[30]FROM Lambeth I returned by the water-ſide, near the end of Weſtminſter bridge, along a tract once a dreary marſh, and ſtill in parts called Lambeth marſh; about the year 1560, there was not a houſe on it, from Lambeth palace as far as Southwark. Sir William Dugdale * makes frequent mention of the works for ſecuring it, in old times, by embankments or walls as they are ſtyled, to reſtrain the ravages of the tide. The embankments in Southwark muſt have been the work of the Romans, otherwiſe they never could have erected the buildings or made the roads of which ſuch frequent veſtiges have been found. Moſt of this tract is become firm land, and covered with moſt uſeful buildings even to the edge of the river.MRS. COADE'S ARTIFICIAL STONE. In a ſtreet called Narrow Wall (from one of the antient embankments) is Mrs. Coade's manufacture of artificial ſtone. Her repoſitory conſiſts of ſeveral very large rooms filled with every ornament which can be uſed in architecture. The ſtatue, the vaſe, the urn, the rich chimney-pieces, and, in a few words, every thing which could be produced out of natural ſtone or marble by the moſt elegant chiſel, is here to be obtained at an eaſy rate. Proof has been made of its durable quality. The inventor has been able to ward off the attacks of time, but not of envy: a beautiful font, now the ornament of Dibden church in Eſſex, and which was formed on a moſt admirable antique model, was denied to the public eye, in a place where liberality ought to have enjoyed the freeſt reign.

ENGLISH WINES;NOTWITHSTANDING the climate of Great Britain has, at leſt of late years, been unfavorable to the production of wines: yet, in the year 1635, we began to make ſome from the raiſins or [31] dried grapes of Spain and Portugal. Francis Chamberlayne made the attempt, and obtained a patent for fourteen years, in which it is alleged that his wines would keep good during ſeveral years, and even in a voyage under the very line *. The art was moſt ſucceſsfully revived, ſeveral years ago, by Mark Beaufoy, and the foreign wines moſt admirably mimicked. Such is the prodigality and luxury of the age, that the demand for many ſorts exceeds in a great degree the produce of the native vineyards. We have ſkilful fabricators, who kindly ſupply our wants. It has been eſtimated, that half of the port, and five-ſixths of the white wines conſumed in our capital, have been the produce of our home wine-preſſes. The product of duty to the ſtate from a ſingle houſe, was in one year, from July 5th, 1785, to July 5th, 1786, not leſs than £. 7,363.9s 8 ½ d. The genial banks of the Thames oppoſite to our capital, yield almoſt every ſpecies of white wine; and, by a wondrous magic, Meſſrs. Beaufoy pour forth the materials for the rich Frontiniac, to the more elegant tables; the Madeira, the Caleavella, and the Liſbon, into every part of the kingdom.

THIS great work, and that for the making of vinegar,AND VINEGAR. is at a ſmall diſtance from Mrs. Coade's. I can ſcarcely ſay how much I was ſtruck with the extent of the undertaking. There is a magnificence of buſineſs, in this ocean of ſweets and ſours, that cannot fail exciting the greateſt admiration: whether we conſider the number of veſſels, or their ſize.GREAT TONS. The boaſted ton at Heydelberg does not ſurpaſs them. On firſt entering the yard, two riſe before you, covered at the top with a thatched dome; between [32] them is a circular turret, including a winding ſtaircaſe, which brings you to their ſummits, which are above twenty-four feet in diameter. One of theſe conſervatories is full of ſweet wine, and contains fifty eight thouſand one hundred and nine gallons; or eighteen hundred and fifteen barrels of Wincheſter meaſure. Its ſuperb aſſociate is full of vinegar, to the amount of fifty ſix thouſand ſeven hundred and ninety-nine gallons, or ſeventeen hundred and ſeventy-four barrels, of the ſame ſtandard as the former. The famous German veſſel yields even to the laſt by the quantity of forty barrels *.

BESIDES theſe, is an avenue of leſſer veſſels, which hold from thirty-two thouſand five hundred, to ſixteen thouſand nine hundred and ſeventy-four gallons each. After quitting this Brobdignagian ſcene, we paſs to the acres covered with common barrels: we cannot diminiſh our ideas ſo ſuddenly, but at firſt we imagined we could quaff them off as eaſily as Gulliver did the little hogſheads of the kingdom of Lilliput.

THIS ground, ſo profitable to the proprietors, and ſo productive of revenue to the ſtate, was in my memory the ſcene of low diſſipation.CUPER'S GARDEN. Here ſtood Cuper's Garden, noted for its fire-works, and the great reſort of the profligate of both ſexes. This place was ornamented with ſeveral of the mutilated ſtatues belonging to Thomas earl of Arundel, which had been for that purpoſe begged from his lordſhip by one Boyder Cuper, a gardener in the family . The more valuable part were bought by lord Lemſter, [33] father of the firſt earl of Pomfret, and preſented by the earl's widow to the univerſity of Oxford. Theſe grounds were then rented by lord Arundel. On the pulling down of Arundel-houſe, to make way for the ſtreet of that name, theſe, and ſeveral others of the damaged part of the collection, were removed to this place. Numbers were left on the ground, near the river-ſide, and overwhelmed with the rubbiſh brought from the foundation of the new church of St. Paul's. Theſe in after-times were diſcovered, dug up, and conveyed to the ſeat of the duke of Norfolk, at Workſop manor. Injured as they are, they appear, from the etchings given by Doctor Ducarel, to have had great merit.

THE great timber-yards,GREAT TIMBER-YARDS. beneath which theſe antiquities were found, are very well worthy of a viſit. One would fear that the foreſts of Norway and the Baltic would be exhauſted, to ſupply the want of our overgrown capital, were we not aſſured, that the reſources will ſucceſſively be increaſing, equal to the demand of ſucceeding ages.

IN this pariſh are the vaſt diſtilleries,GREAT DISTILLERY. till of late the property of Sir Joſeph Mawhey. There are ſeldom leſs than two thouſand hogs conſtantly grunting at this place; which are kept entirely on the grains. I lament to ſee the maxim of private vices being public benefits ſo ſtrongly exemplified in the produce of the duty on this Stygian liquor. From July 5th, 1785, to July 5th, 1786, it yielded £. 450,000. And I have been told of a ſingle diſtiller who contributed to that ſum £. 54,000.

TO the ſouth are St. George's Fields, ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS. now the wonder of foreigners approaching by this road to our capital, through avenues of lamps, of magnificent breadth and goodneſs. I have heard that a foreign ambaſſador, who happened to make his [34] entry at night, imagined that theſe illuminations * were in honor of his arrival, and, as he modeſtly expreſſed, more than he could have expected. On this ſpot have been found remains of teſſelated pavements, coins, and an urn full of bones , poſſibly the ſite of a ſummer camp of the Romans. In this place it could have been no other. It was too wet for a reſidentiary ſtation. Its neighbor, Lambeth marſh, was in the laſt century overflown with water: but St. George's Fields might, from their diſtance from the river, admit of a temporary encampment.

[...]ON approaching St. George's Fields from Weſtminſter-bridge are two charities of uncommon delicacy and utility. The firſt is the Weſtminſter Lying-in Hoſpital. This is not inſtituted merely for the honeſt matron, who can depoſe her burthen with the conſciouſneſs of lawful love, but alſo for the unhappy wretches whom ſome villain, in the unguarded moment, hath ſeduced, and then left a prey to deſertion of friends, poverty, want, and guilt. Leaſt ſuch ‘may be driven to deſpair by ſuch complicated miſery, and be tempted to deſtroy themſelves, and murder their infants ,’ here was founded, in 1765, this humane preventative The Weſtminſter New Lying-in Hoſpital. To obviate all objection to its being an encouragement to vice, no one is taken in a ſecond time: but this moſt excellent charity is open to the worthy diſtreſſed matron as often as neceſſity requires. None are rejected who have friends to recommend. And of both deſcriptions [35] upwards of four thouſand have experienced its ſalutary effects.

FARTHER on is another inſtitution of a moſt heavenly nature,ASYLUM, OR HOUSE OF REFUGE. calculated to ſave from perdition of ſoul and body, the brighter part of the creation: ſuch on whom Providence hath beſtowed angelic faces and elegant forms, deſigned as bleſſings to mankind, but too often debaſed to the vileſt uſes. The hazard that theſe innocents conſtantly are liable to, from a thouſand temptations, from poverty, from death of parents, from the diabolical procureſs, and often from the ſtupendous wickedneſs of parents themſelves, who have been known to ſell their beauteous girls for the purpoſe of proſtitution, induced a worthy band to found, in the year 1758, the Aſylum, or Houſe of Refuge. Long may it flouriſh, and eternal be the reward of thoſe into whoſe minds ſo amiable a conception may have entered!

FOR the ſalvation of thoſe unhappy beings who had the ill fortune to loſe the benefits of this divine inſtitution, at a ſmall diſtance is the Magdalen Hoſpital, MAGDALEN HOSPITAL. for the reception of the penitent proſtitutes. To ſave from vice is one great merit. To reclame and reſtore to the dignity of honeſt rank in life is certainly not leſs meritorious. The joy at the return of one ſinner to repentance, is eſteemed by the higheſt authority worthy of the heavenly hoſt. That ecſtaſy, I truſt, this inſtitution has often occaſioned. Since its foundation, in the ſame year with the former, to December 25th, 1786, not fewer than 2,471 have been admitted. Of theſe (it is not to be wondered that long and evil habits are often incurable) 300 have been diſcharged, uneaſy under conſtraint; 45 proved lunatics, and afflicted with incurable fits; 60 have died; 52 never returned from hoſpitals they were ſent to; 338 [36] diſcharged for faults and irregularities.—How to be dreaded is the entrance into the bounds of vice, ſince the retreat from its paths is ſo difficult! Finally, 1608 prodigals have been returned to their rejoicing parents, or placed in reputable ſervices, or to honeſt trades, banes to idleneſs, and ſecurities againſt a future relapſe.

[...]IAN [...]TRES.IN this neighborhood are two theatres of innocent recreation, (in which every government ſhould indulge its ſubjects, as preſervations from worſe employs, and as relaxations from the cares of life) of a nature unknown to every other part of Europe; the Britiſh Hippedromes, belonging to Meſſrs. Aſtley and Hughes, where the wonderful [...]gacity of that moſt uſeful animal the horſe is fully evinced. While we admire its admirable docility and apprehenſion, we cannot leſs admire the powers of the riders, and the graceful attitudes the human frame is capable of receiving. But there is another ſpecies of amuſement, uſually reckoned of a deſpicable kind, yet, ever ſince I read Doctor Delaney's thoughts * on the ſubject, I have looked on the art of tumbling with admiration. It ſhews us how fearfully and wonderfully we are made. What infinite misfortunes would befal us, (which almoſt every ſtep is liable to) was it not for that wiſe conſtruction of parts, that pliability of limb, that, unperceived by us, protects us in every contrived motion, or accidental ſlip, from the moſt dire and diſabling calamities!

BOROUGH OF SOUTHWARK.THE borough of Southwark joins to the pariſh of Lambeth on the eaſt, and conſiſts of the pariſhes of St. Olave's, St. Saviour's, St. George's, and St. Thomas's.

[37]IT was called by the Saxons, Suthverke, or the South work, in reſpect to ſome fort or fortification bearing that aſpect from London. It was alſo called the Borough, or Burg, probably for the ſame reaſon. It was long independent of the city of London: but, in conſideration of the inconveniences ariſing from the eſcape of malefactors from the great capital into this place, it was, in 1327 granted by Edward III. to the city, on payment of ten pounds annually. It was then called the village of Southwark; it was afterwards ſtyled the bailiwick of Southwark, and the mayor and commonalty of London appointed the bailiff. This power did not ſeem ſufficient to remedy the evil, a more intimate connection was thought neceſſary: in the reign of Edward VI. on a valuable conſideration payed to the crown, it was formed into a twenty-ſixth ward, by the title of Bridge ward without, and Sir John Ayliff was its firſt alderman. It had long before enjoyed the privilege of ſending members to parlement. It is mentioned among the boroughs in the time of Edward III; but the names of the firſt members which appear, are Robert Acton and Thomas Bulle, in 1542. The members are elected by the inhabitants paying ſcot and lot, and returned by the bailiff.

THE firſt time that Southwark is mentioned in hiſtory, is on occaſion of earl Godwin's ſailing up the river to attack the royal navy of fifty ſhips, lying before the palace of Weſtminſter; this was in 1052, when we are told he went ad Suthwecree, and ſtayed there till the return of the tide *.

ST. GEORGE's church is of conſiderable antiquity; it is mentioned [38] in 1122, when Thomas of Arderne and his ſon beſtowed it on the neighboring monks of Bermondſey *. It was rebuilt in 1736, by Price, with a ſpire ſteeple moſt aukwardly ſtanding upon ſtilts.

[...] OF CHARLES BRAND [...]N.NOT far from this church ſtood the magnificent palace of Charles Brandon duke of Suffolk, the deſerved favorite of Henry VIII. After his death, in 1545, it came into the king's hand, who eſtabliſhed here a royal mint. It at that time was called Southwark Place, and in great meaſure preſerved its dignity. Edward VI. once dined in it. His ſiſter and ſucceſſor preſented it to Heath archbiſhop of York, as an inn or reſidence for him and his ſucceſſors,THE MINT whenever they repaired to London. As to the Mint, it became a ſanctuary to inſolvent debtors; at length becoming the peſt of the neighborhood, by giving ſhelter to villains of every ſpecies, that awakened the attention of parlement; which, by the ſtatutes 8 and 9 William III. c. 27. 9 George I. c. 29. and 11 George I. c. 22. entirely took away its abuſed privileges.

KING'S-BENCH PRISON.THE King's-bench priſon, in this pariſh, is of great antiquity. To this priſon was committed Henry prince of Wales, afterwards Henry V, by the ſpirited and honeſt judge Gaſcoigne, for ſtriking or inſulting him on the bench. It is difficult to ſay which we ſhould admire moſt, the courage of the judge, or the peaceful ſubmiſſion of the prince to the commitment, after he was freed from the phrenzy of his rage. The truth of the fact has been doubted; but, it is delivered by ſeveral grave hiſtorians, ſuch as Hall, who died in 1547, who mentions it folio 1; Grafton, perhaps his copyiſt, at p. 443; and the learned Sir [39] Thomas Elyot, a favorite of Henry VIII. in his book called The Governour, relates the ſame in p. 102, book ii. c. 6, of that treatiſe. Theſe were all long prior to Shakeſpeare, or the author of another play, in the time of queen Elizabeth, ſtyled Henry V. It muſt have been the poets that took up the relation from the hiſtorians, and not the hiſtorians from the poets, as ſome people have aſſerted. This was not the only time of his commitment. In 1411 he was confined by John Horneſby *, mayor of Coventry, in the Cheleyſmor in that city; and arreſted with his two brothers in the priory, probably for a riot committed there. The reform of this great prince was very early: for I never can believe him to have been a hypocrite when he wrote in that ſtrain of piety to his father, on the ſubject of a victory obtained at Uſk, over the famous Glyndwr . The other play of Henry V. which I allude to, was written before the year 1592. In the ſcene in which the hiſtorical account of the violence of the prince againſt the chief juſtice is introduced, Richard Tarlton, a famous comedian and mimic, acts both judge and clown. One Knell, another drole comedian of the time, acted the prince, and gave the chief juſtice ſuch a blow as felled him to the ground, to the great diverſion of the audience. Tarlton the judge, goes off the ſtage; and returns, Tarlton the clown; he demands the cauſe of the laughter, "O," ſays one, ‘had thou beenſt here to have ſeen what a terrible blow the prince gave the judge." "What, ſtrike a judge!’ ſays the clown, terrible indeed muſt it be [40] to the judge, when the very report of it makes my cheek burn*.’

MARSHALEEN.THE priſon of the Marſhalſea, which belongs to that court, and alſo to the king's palace at Weſtminſter, ſtands here; this court had particular cognizance of murders, and other offences, committed within the king's court: ſuch as ſtriking, which in old times was puniſhed with the loſs of the offending hand. Here alſo perſons guilty of piracies, and other offences on the high ſeas, were confined. In 1377 it was broke open by a mob of ſailors, who murdered a gentleman confined in it for killing one of their comrades, and who had been pardoned by the count . It was again broke open by Wat Tyler and his followers, in 1381. It eſcaped in the infamous riots of 1780; but the King's Bench, and the Borough priſon, and another Borough priſon called the Clink, were nearly at the ſame inſtant ſacrificed to their fury.

PARIS-GARDEN.IN this pariſh, near the water, on Bank-ſide, ſtood Paris-garden, one of the antient playhouſes of our metropolis. Ben Johnſon is reproached by one Decker, an envious critic, with his ill ſucceſs on the ſtage, and in particular with having performed the part of Zuliman, at Paris-Garden. It ſeems to have been much frequented on Sundays. This profanation was at length fully puniſhed, by the dire accident which, heaven-directed, befel the ſpectators in 1582, when the ſcaffolding ſuddenly fell, and multitudes of people were killed or miſerably maimed. The omen ſeems to have been accepted, for, in the next century, the manor of Paris-Garden was erected into a pariſh, and a church [41] founded, under the name of CHRIST's. This calamity ſeems to have been predicted by one Crowley, a poet, of the reign of Henry VIII; who likewiſe informs us, that in this place were exhibited bear-baitings, as well as dramatical entertainments, and upon Sundays, as they are to this time at the Combat des Animaux, at Paris.

What folly is this to keep, with danger,
A great maſtive dog, and fowle ouglie bear;
And to this an end, to ſee them two fight,
With terrible tearings, a ful ouglie ſight.
And methinkes thoſe men are moſt fools of al,
Whoſe ſtore of money is but very ſmal,
And yet every Sunday they wil ſurely ſpend
One peny or two, the Bearwards living to mend.
At Paris Garden each Sunday a man ſhal not fail
To find two or three hundred for the Bearwards vale.
One halfpeny a piece they uſe for to give,
When ſome have not more in their purſes, I believe.
Wel, at the laſt day their conſcience wil declare,
That the poor ought to have al that they may ſpare.
If you therefore give to ſee a bear fight,
Be ſure God his curſe upon you wil light.

BEYOND this place of brutal amuſement were the Bear-Garden, and place for baiting of bulls; the Britiſh circi: "Herein," ſays Stow *, ‘were kept beares, bulls, and other beaſts to be bayted, as alſo maſtives in ſeveral kenels, nouriſhed to bayt them. Theſe beares and other beaſts are there kept [42] in plots of ground ſcaffolded about for the beholders to ſtand ſafe.’ In the old maps theſe circi are engraven.

BEAR-BAITING.BEAR-baiting made one of the amuſements of the romantic age of queen Elizabeth; for there was ſtill left a ſtrong tincture of thoſe of the ſavage and warlike period. It was introduced among the princely pleaſures of Kenilworth, in 1575; where the drole author of the account introduces the bear and dogs, deciding their antient grudge per duellum. ‘Well, Syr, (ſays he) the bearz wear brought foorth intoo coourt, the dogs ſet too them, too argu the points eeven face to face, they had learnd coounſell allſo a both parts: what may they be coounted parciall that are retaind but a to ſyde, I ween. No wery feers both ton and toother eager in argument: if the dog in pleadyng woold pluk the bear by the throte, the bear with trauers woould claw him again by the ſkaip, confeſs & a liſt; but a voyd a coold not that waz bound too the bar: and hiz counſell tolld him that it coold bee [...]o him no poliecy in pleading. Thearfore thus with ſending & proouing, with plucking & tugging, ſkratting & byting, by plain tooth & nayll, a to ſide & toother, ſuch erſpes of blood & leather waz thear between them, az a moonths licking I ween wyl not recoouer, and yet remain az far oout az euer they wear. It waz a ſport very pleazaunt of theez beaſtz: to ſee the bear with hiz pink nyez leering after hiz enmiez approch, the nimblneſs & wayt of ye dog too take hiz auauntage, and the fors & experiens of the bear agayn to auoyd the aſſauts: if he wear bitten in one place, hoow he woold pynch in an oother too get free: that if he wear taken onez, then what ſhyft with byting, with clawyng, with roring, toſſing & tumbling, he woold work to [43] wynde hymſelf from them; and when he was loſe, to ſhake hiz earz twyſe or thryſe wyth the blud and the ſlaver aboout hiz fiznamy was a matter of a goodly releef*.’

THIS was an amuſement for perſons of the firſt rank; our great princeſs Elizabeth thought proper to cauſe the French ambaſſadors to be carried to this theatre, to divert them with theſe bloody ſpectacles .

NOT far from theſe ſcenes of cruel paſtime was the Bordello, THE STEWS. or Stews, permitted, and openly licenſed by government, under certain laws or regulations. They were farmed out. Even a lord mayor, the great Sir William Walworth, did not diſdain to own them; and he rented them to the Froes, i. e. the bawds of Flanders. Among other regulations, no ſtewholder was to admit married women: nor, like pious Calviniſts, in Holland, to this preſent day, were they to keep open their houſes on Sundays; nor were they to admit any women who had on them the perilous infirmity of burning, &c. &c. Theſe infamous houſes were ſuppreſſed in the reign of Henry VIII. The pretence of theſe eſtabliſhments was to prevent the debauching the wives and daughters of the citizens, ſo that all who had not the gift of continence might have places to repair to. Perhaps, in days when thouſands were tied up by vows of celibacy, theſe haunts might have been neceſſary; for neither cowl nor cope had virtue ſufficient to annihilate the ſtrongeſt of human paſſions. Old Latimer [44] complains bitterly, that the offence was not taken away with the ſuppreſſion of the houſes. "One thing I muſt here," ſays the zealous preacher, ‘deſire you to reforme, my lordes; you have put downe the Stewes. But, I pray you, whow is the matter amended. What avayleth that you have but changed the place, and not taken the wh—d me away.— There is now more wh—d-me in London then ever there was on the Bancke *.’

THE ſigns were not hung out, but painted againſt the walls. I cannot but ſmile at one: the Cardinal's Hat. I will not give into ſcandal ſo far as to ſuppoſe that this houſe was peculiarly protected by any coeval member of the ſacred college. Neither would I by any means inſinuate that the biſhops of Wincheſter and Rocheſter, or the abbots of Waverley or of St. Auguſtine's, in Canterbury, or of Battel, or of Hyde, or the prior of Lewes, had here their temporary reſidences for them or their trains, for the ſake of theſe conveniencies, in that period of cruel and unnatural reſtriction.

BESIDES theſe temporary manſions of holy men, were others, for thoſe who preferred the monaſtic life. The firſt religious houſe was that of St. Mary Overie, ST. MARY OVERIE. ſaid to have been originally founded by a maiden named Mary, for ſiſters, and endowed with the profits of a ferry croſs the Eye, or river Thames. Swithen, a noble lady, changed it into a college of prieſts: but in the year 1106 it was re-founded by William Pont de L'arche, and William Dauncy, Norman knights, for canons regular. The laſt prior was Bartholomew Linſted, alias Fowle, who ſurrendered the convent [45] to Henry, in October 1540, and received in reward a penſion of £. 100 a year. Its revenues, according to Dugdale, were £. 654. 6s. 6d. * William Giffard, biſhop of Wincheſter, in the reign of Henry I, was a great benefactor to this place, and built the conventual church. It certainly was not the preſent church, for in the days of Giffard the round arch and clumſy pillar was in full faſhion. This church was probably burnt in the fire which conſumed the priory, in 1207: for we know it was rebuilt in the time of Richard II. or Henry IV. The whole is a beautiful pile of gothic architecture, in form of a croſs, but much deformed by a wooden gallery, which the increaſe of the congregation occaſioned to be built. On the diſſolution, the inhabitants of Southwark purchaſed the church of the king, and converted it into a pariſh church; and, by act of parlement, united it with that of St. Margaret's of the Hill, under the name of St. Saviour's.

WITHIN, beneath a rich gothic arch in the north wall,TOMB OF THE POET GOWER. is the monument of the celebrated poet John Gower. His figure is placed recumbent, in a long gown; on his head is a chaplet of roſes; and from his neck a collar of SS; under his feet are three books, denoting his three principal works. On one is inſcribed Speculum Meditantis, which he had written in French; on the ſecond, Vox Clamantis, written in Latin; and on the laſt, Confeſſio Amantis, in Engliſh. Above, on the wall, are painted three female figures crowned, and with ſcrolls in their hands.

[46]The firſt, which is named Charitie, hath on her ſcroll

En toy qui es fite de Dieu le pere,
Sauve ſoit que giſt ſouz ceſt piere.

On that of the ſecond, who is named Mercie,

O bone Jeſu fait ta mercie,
Al alme dont le corps giſt icy.

And on the ſcroll of the third, named Pitie,

Pur ta pite JESU regarde!
Et met ceſt alme en ſauve garde.

HE founded a chauntry for himſelf within theſe walls, and was alſo a ſignal benefactor to the church. He was a man of family, and had a liberal education, according to the times, in the inns of court. Notwithſtanding the word Armiger in the modern inſcription, it is probable he was a knight *. He was cotemporary with, and the great friend of Chaucer, whom he ſtyles ‘his pupil and his poet;’ a proof of ſeniority, notwithſtanding he ſurvived him.

Grete wel CHAUCER, whan ye mete,
As my Diſciple and my Poete;
For in the flours of his youth,
In ſondrie wiſe, as he well couth,
Of Detees and of Songes glade,
The which he for my ſake made.

[47] Chaucer is not a bit behind hand in marks of reſpect.

O moral GOWER, this boke I direct
To the, and to the philoſophical Strode.
To vouchſafe there nede is to correcte,
Of your benignities and zelis gode.

THESE excellent characters lived together in the moſt perfect amity: Chaucer was a ſevere reprover of the vices of the clergy; and each united in their great and ſucceſsful endeavour to give a poliſh to the Engliſh language. Chaucer gave a free rein to his poetical mirth. Gower's poetry was grave and ſententious. He has much good ſenſe, ſolid reflection, and uſeful obſervation. But he is ſerious and didactic on all occaſions. He preſerves the tone of the ſcholar, and the moraliſt, on the moſt lively topics *.’ Theſe fathers of Engliſh poetry followed each other cloſely to the grave. Chaucer died in 1400, aged 72. Gower in 1402, blind and full of years.

A RECUMBENT figure of a biſhop, in his robes and badges,OF BISHOP ANDREWS. as prelate of the Garter, commemorates the pious, hoſpitable, and witty Launcelot Andrews, biſhop of Wincheſter, who died in his adjacent palace, in 1624, aged ſeventy-one. James I. at dinner, attended by Neale, biſhop of Durham, and this amiable churchman, aſked of the firſt, whether he might not take his ſubjects money without the aſſiſtance of parlement? "God forbid," ſays the ſervile Neale, ‘but you ſhould: you are the breath of our noſtrils.’ Then, turning to Andrews, Well, my lord, what ſay you? The good biſhop would have evaded the queſtion, but the [48] king being peremptory, he anſwered, ‘Then, Sir, I think it lawful to take my brother Neale's, money, for he offers it.’

WINCHESTER-HOUSE. Wincheſter-houſe was a very large building, not far from this church: the founder is unknown. Till the civil wars of the laſt century, it was the reſidence of the prelates during their attendance in parlement. Much of it is yet ſtanding, tenanted by different families, or converted into warehouſes. The great court is called Wincheſter-ſquare, and in the adjacent ſtreet is the abutment of one of the gates.

THE CLINK.THE Clink, or manor of Southwark, is ſtill under the juriſdiction of the biſhops of Wincheſter; who, beſides a court-leet, keeps a court of record on the Bank-ſide, by his ſteward and bailiff, for pleas of debt, treſpaſſes, &c.

IN Southwark Park, on the back of Wincheſter-houſe, was found, by Sir William Dugdale, knight, in 1658, in ſinking the cellars for new buildings, a very curious teſſelated pavement, with a border in form of a ſerpentine column *.

MONUMENT OF LOCKYER, A QUACK DOCTOR.A FIGURE with its head reclined on one hand, in a great wig, and furred gown, repreſents Lionel Lockyer, a celebrated quack of the reign of Charles II. His virtues and his pills are thus expreſſed:

His virtues and his pills ſo well are known,
That envy can't confine them under ſtone;
But they'l ſurvive his duſt, and not expire
Till all things elſe, at th' univerſal fire.
This verſe is loſt, his pills embalm him ſafe
To future times without an epitaph.

I believe the laſt to be prophetic; his pills being to be found [49] among the long liſt of quackeries which promiſe almoſt immortality to the credulous taker.

HERE are two other ridiculous epitaphs,RIDICULOUS EPITAPHS. which promiſe to the deceaſed a place in court, after they have paſſed the limits of the grave. Thus, John Trehearne, porter to James I. is told of the reverſion he is to have in heaven:

In thy king's court good place to thee is given,
Whence thou ſhalt go to the King's court of heaven.

But Miſs Barford is flattered in a ſtill higher manner:

Such grace the King of kings beſtow'd upon her,
That now ſhe lives with him a maid of honour.

AGAINST a wall is a ſingular diminutive figure, one foot three inches long, ſaid to repreſent a dwarf, one William Emerſon, who died in 1575, aet. 92. He is repreſented half naked, much emaciated, lying in his ſhroud on a mat, moſt neatly cut.

I SHALL conclude this liſt with the monument of Richard Humble, his two wives, and children; not on account of their groteſque figures, but for the ſake of the pretty and moral inſcription cut on one ſide.

Like to the damaſk roſe you ſee,
A PRETTY ONE.
Or like the bloſſom on the tree,
Or like the dainty flower of May,
Or like the morning of the day;
Or like the ſun, or like the ſhade,
Or like the gourd which Jonas had:
Even ſo is man, whoſe thread is ſpun,
Drawn out and cut, and ſo is done.
[50]The roſe withers, the bloſſom blaſteth,
The flower fades, the morning haſteth;
The ſun ſets, the ſhadow flies,
The gourd conſumes, and man he dies.

A LITTLE to the weſt of this church is a lane called Stoney ſtreet, which ran down to the water-ſide, nearly oppoſite to Dow-gate, and probably was the continuation of the Watling-ſtreet road. This is ſuppoſed to have been a Roman Trajectus, and the ferry from Londinum into the province of Cantium. Marks of the antient cauſey have been diſcovered on the London ſide. On this, the name evinces the origin. The Saxons always give the name of Street to the Roman roads; and here they gave it the addition of Stein or Stoney, from the pavement they found it compoſed of.

DEADMAN's place lies a little farther: tradition ſays that it took its name from the number of dead interred there in the great plague, ſoon after the Reſtoration.

FROM the calamity which deſtroyed this church, and the religious houſe, in the year 1207, aroſe one of our nobleſt hoſpitals, that of St. Thomas. ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL. After the fire, the canons built, at a ſmall diſtance from the priory, an occaſional building for their reception till their houſe could be re-built. But in 1215, Peter de Rupibus, biſhop of Wincheſter, diſliking the ſituation, removed it to a place on which Richard, a Norman prior of Bermondſey, had, in 1213, erected a hoſpital for converts and poor children, which he called the Almery. Peter de Rupibus new founded it for canons regular, and endowed it with three hundred and forty-four pounds a year. It was held from the prior and abbot of Bermondſey, till the year 1428, when a compoſition was made between [51] the abbot and the maſter of the hoſpital of St. Thomas, for all the lands and tenements held of the abby for the old rent, to be payed to the ſaid abbot. At the diſſolution it was ſurrendered into the hands of the king. In 1552, it was founded a third time by the citizens of London, who purchaſed the ſuppreſſed hoſpital: in July they began the reparation, and in November following, opened it for the reception of the ſick and poor; not fewer than two hundred and ſixty were the firſt objects of the charity. The patron was at the ſame time changed: the turbulent Thomas Becket very properly giving place to the worthy apoſtle St. Thomas.

TOWARDS the end of the laſt century, the building fell into decay. In the year 1699 the governors ſolicited the benevolence of the public for its ſupport: and with ſuch ſucceſs, that they were enabled to re-build it on the magnificent and extenſive plan we now ſee. It conſiſts of three courts, with colonnades between each: three wards were built at the ſole coſt of Thomas Frederic, eſquire, of London: and three by Thomas Guy, citizen and ſtationer. The whole containing eighteen wards, and 442 beds. The expences attending this foundation are about £. 10,000 a year. In the middle of the ſecond court is a ſtatue in braſs of Edward VI. and beneath him the repreſentation of the halt and maimed.

IN that of the third court is a ſtone ſtatue of Sir Robert Clayton, knight, lord mayor of London, dreſſed in character, in his gown and chain. He gave £. 600 towards re-building this hoſpital; and left £. 2,300 towards the endowing it. The ſtatue was erected before his death, which happened in 1714.

[52]THIS excellent inſtitution has, within the laſt ten years, admitted and diſcharged, of

  • In-patients, 30,717.
  • Out-patients, 47,099.

And in the laſt account of 1787, it appears there were admitted and diſcharged

  • 2,758 In-patients,
  • 5,191 Out-patients,
  • Total in the year — 7,949.

MR. GUY'S HOSPITAL.MR. Guy, not ſatisfied with his great benefactions to the hoſpital of St. Thomas, determined to be the ſole founder of another. The relation is very remarkable. At the age of ſeventy-ſix, he took a leaſe, of the governors of the former, of a piece of ground oppoſite to it, for the term of nine hundred and ninety-nine years, and on it, in 1721, at the expence of £. 18,793. 16 s. began to build the hoſpital which bears his name: and left to endow it, the prodigious ſum of £. 219,499, amaſſed from a very ſmall beginning, chiefly by purchaſing ſeamen's tickets, in the reign of queen Anne; and by his great ſucceſs in the buying and ſelling South Sea ſtock, in the memorable year 1720; and alſo a vaſt ſum by the ſale of bibles. He ſeems to have profited both of GOD and Mammon. I think he was a native of Tamworth, and repreſentative for that borough. His death happened on December 27th, 1724; before which he ſaw his hoſpital covered with the roof. In the firſt court is his ſtatue in braſs, dreſſed in his livery gown. Beſides his public expences, he gave, during life, to many of his poor relations, £. 10 or £. 20 a year; and to others money to advance them in life; to his aged relations, £. 870 in annuities; and to his younger relations and executors, the ſum of £. 75,589!

[53]IN the chapel (ſhouldering GOD's altar) is another ſtatue of Mr. Guy, a moſt expenſive performance by Mr. J. Bacon, in 1779, in white marble. He is repreſented ſtanding, in his livery gown, with one hand raiſing a miſerable ſick object, and with the other pointing to a ſecond object, on a bier, carried by two perſons into his hoſpital. This ſuperfluity coſt a thouſand pounds; a proof of the exuberant wealth of the foundation, which could ſpare ſuch a ſum to be waſted on an idle needleſs occaſion. I was told that at this time there were only two hundred beds: three wards being out of uſe, undergoing certain alterations. But I could not obtain the leſt account of the annual number of patients, or of expenditure, or revenue; which other hoſpitals never fail of laying before the public.

IN the laboratory is a large medallion in white marble of the great and pious BOYLE.

THE other religious houſe in Southwark was Bermondſey, BERMONDSEY ABBY. founded in 1082, by Aylwin Childe, a citizen of London, for monks of the Cluniac order: a cargo of which were imported hither by favor of archbiſhop Lanfranc, in the year 1089, from the priory De Caritate, on the Loire, in Nivernois. Soon after the reſumption of the alien priories, it was converted into an abby by Richard II. In 1539 *, it was ſurrendered into the king's hands by Robert de Wharton, who had his reward, not only of a penſion of £. 333. 6 s. 8 d. but alſo the biſhoprick of St. Aſaph in commendam. The revenues of the houſe at the diſſolution were £. 474. 14s. 4d.; the poor monks received the annual penſion of from ten to about five pounds apiece.

[54]THE conventual church was then pulled down by Sir Thomas Pope, who built a magnificent houſe on the ſite. This became the habitation of the Ratcliffs, earls of Suſſex. Thomas, the great rival of the favorite earl of Leiceſter, breathed his laſt within its walls.

THE preſent parochial church of St. Mary Magdalen was founded by the priors of Bermondſey, for the uſe of their adjoining tenants.

THE remains of antiquity in this neighborhood are, the antient gate of the abby, with a large arch and a poſtern on one ſide. Adjoining is part of a very old building; and on paſſing beneath the arch, and turning to the left, is to be ſeen, within a court, a houſe of very great antiquity, called (for what reaſon I know not) king John's court.

BERMONDSEY ſtreet may at preſent be called the great Wool Staple of our kingdom. Here reſide numbers of merchants, who ſupply Rochdale, Leiceſter, Derby, Exeter, and moſt other weaving countries in this kingdom, with that commodity. As Southwark may be conſidered as a great ſuburb to London, numbers of other trades are carried on there to a vaſt extent: the Tanners, Curriers, Hatters, Dyers, Iron-founders, Rope-makers, Sail-makers, and Block-makers, occupy a conſiderable part of the borough.

THE moſt eaſtern pariſh in Southwark, is that of St. Olave or Olaf, ſo named from the Daniſh prince who was maſſacred by his Pagan ſubjects.ST. OLAVE, OR OLAF'S CHURCH. The church appears to have been founded near five hundred years ago *. The pariſh extends from the ſpot on London-bridge, on which was the draw-bridge, and ſtretches [55] along the water-ſide as far as St. Saviour's Dock. In this pariſh, near the church, was the inn or lodging of the abbot of Lewes in Suſſex. The chapel is ſtill remaining, converted into a cellar, and, by the accumulation of earth, ſunk under ground: and a gothic building, now turned into a wine vault belonging to the King's-head tavern, may have been part of the manſion.

ON Sellenger's wharf ſtood the town-houſe of the abbot of St. Auguſtine's at Canterbury; which being granted to Sir Anthony Saint-Leger, the wharf was named after him, but corrupted according to the modern ſpelling *.

THE abbot of Battle had alſo here his city-manſion. Battle-bridge, or rather Stairs, took its name from the houſe: as did the ſtreets called the Mazes, from the luxurious intricacies in his magnificent gardens .

ST. Saviour's Dock, or, as it is called, Savory, ST. SAVIOUR'S DOCK. bounds the eaſtern end of this pariſh. St. Saviour's Dock may be conſidered as the port of Southwark. It is in length about four hundred yards, but of moſt diſproportionable breadth, not exceeding thirty feet. The borough will certainly give it a more uſeful magnitude: and alſo re-build the warehouſes and magazines on each ſide. It is at preſent ſolely appropriated to barges, which diſcharge coals, copperas from Writtleſea in Eſſex, pipe-clay, corn, and various other articles of commerce. If the dock was deepened, and correſpondent wharfs erected, ſloops and leſſer veſſels might come from different ſea-ports, and here diſcharge their cargoes, without the expence of re-loading leſſer craft, in order to re-land them at this dock.

[56]IT antiently belonged to the priory of St. Saviour's Bermondſey, as did certain adjacent mills, which, in 1536 were let by the monks to one John Curlew, for £. 6, then the value of eighteen quarters of good wheat; and he was beſides bound to grind gratis all the corn uſed in that religious houſe.

ROTHEPHITHE.ON the eaſt ſide of the dock commences the pariſh of Rotherhithe or Redriff, which conſiſts chiefly of one ſtreet of a vaſt length, running along the ſhore, and winding with the great bend of the river, to a very ſmall ſpace from Deptford. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is remarkable for its ſteeple, a fluted ſpire terminating in the Ionic ſcroll. I introduce this pariſh, becauſe it is comprehended in the bills of mortality, having been taken in, in the year 1636, with five other pariſhes. Near the extremity of this pariſh are the docks for the Greenland ſhips; a profitable nuſance, very properly removed to a diſtance from the capital. The greater dock is ſuppoſed to have been the mouth of the famous canal, cut in 1016 by king Canute, in order to avoid the impediment of London-bridge, and to lay ſiege to the capital by bringing his fleet to the weſt ſide.

THE LOKE HOSPITAL.THE Loke, in Southwark, was a hoſpital for leprous perſons. It was dedicated to St. Leonard, and exiſted in the time of Edward II: till lately, it was, under the care of the hoſpital of St. Bartholomew, appropriated to the cure of another loathſome diſeaſe. The word changed into Lock, poſſibly has alluſion to the neceſſity of their being locked or kept apart from all other patients.

AS the Borough High-ſtreet was the great paſſage into a great [57] part of our kingdom, to and from our capital,TABARD, CHAUCER'S INN. it was particularly well furniſhed with inns. I ſhall only mention one immortalized by Chaucer. The ſign is now perverted into the Talbot. It originally was the Tabard, ſo called from the ſign—a ſleeveleſs coat, open on both ſides, with a ſquare collar, and winged at the ſhoulders; worn by perſons of rank in the wars, with their arms painted on them that they might be known. The uſe is now transferred to the Heralds. This was the rendezvous of the jolly pilgrims, which formed the troop which our father of poetry deſcribes ſallying out to pay their devotions to the great St. Thomas Becket, who for a long time ſuperſeded almoſt every other Saint.

Befelle that in that ſeſon, on a day,
In Southwerk at the Tabard as I lay,
Redy to wenden on my pilgrimage
To Canterbury, with devoute corage,
At night was come into that hoſtellerie
Wel nine and twenty in a compagnie,
Of ſondry folk, by aventure yfalle,
In felawſhip, and pilgrimes were they alle,
That toward Canterbury wolden ride.
The chambres and the ſtables weren wide,
And wel we weren eſed atte beſte.

The memory of our great poet's pilgrimage is perpetuated by an inſcription over the gateway: ‘This is the inn where Sir Jeffry Chaucer, and nine and twenty pilgrims, lodged, in their journey to Canterbury, in 1383.’

A LITTLE weſt of St. Mary Overie's (in a place ſtill called Globe Alley) ſtood the Globe, THE GLOBE, SHAKESPEAR'S THEATRE. immortalized by having been the theatre on which Shakeſpear firſt trod the ſtage, but in no [58] higher character than the Ghoſt in his own play of Hamlet. It appears to have been of an octagonal form; and is ſaid to have been covered with ruſhes*. I have been told that the door was very lately ſtanding. James I. granted a patent to Laurence Fletcher, WILLIAM SHAKESPEAR, Richard Burbage, Auguſtine Philippes, John Heminges, Henrie Condell, William Sly, Robert Armin, and Richard Cowlie, and others of his majeſty's ſervants, to act here, or in any other part of the kingdom. Notwithſtanding the modeſty of Shakeſpear made him decline taking any conſiderable part in his own productions, his good-nature, and friendſhip for the moroſe Ben Johnſon, induced him to act both in the Sejanus and Every Man in his Humour; a benevolence that greatly contributed to bring the latter into public notice. But in Shakeſpear's own plays, Dick Burbage, as he was familiarly called, was the favorite actor. Condell and Heminges were his intimate friends: and publiſhed his plays in folio, ſeven years after his death.

THE playhouſes, in and about London, were by this time extremely numerous, there not being fewer than ſeventeen between the year 1570 and 1629.

WESTMINSTER.

I NOW return to the extremity of the weſtern part of our capital on the oppoſite ſhore. In the time of queen Elizabeth, the ſhore correſpondent to Lambeth was a mere marſhy tract. Mill-bank, MILL-BANK. the laſt dwelling in Weſtminſter, is a large houſe, which took its name from a mill which once occupied its ſite. Here, in my [59] boyiſh days, I often experienced the hoſpitality of the late Sir Robert Grovenour, its worthy owner, who enjoyed it, by the purchaſe, by one of his family, from the Mordaunts, earls of Peterborough. All the reſt of his vaſt property about London devolved on him in right of his mother, Mary, daughter and heireſs of Alexander Davies of Ebury in the county of Middleſex. I find, in the plan of London by Hollar, a manſion on this ſpot, under the name of Peterborough-houſe. It probably was built by the firſt earl of Peterborough. It was inhabited by his ſucceſſors, and retained its name till the time of the death of that great but irregular genius Charles, earl of Peterborough, in 1735. It was rebuilt in its preſent form by the Grovenour family.

A LITTLE farther was the antient Horſe-ferry between Weſtminſter and Lambeth: HORSE-FERRY. ſuppreſſed on the building of Weſtminſter-bridge.

A LITTLE beyond the Horſe-ferry ſtands the church of St. John the Evangeliſt, one of the fifty voted by parlement, to give this part of the town the air of the capital of a chriſtian country. It was begun in 1721, and finiſhed in 1728. The architect was Sir John Vanbrugh. Notwithſtanding it is deſervedly cenſured for its load of ornaments, they are by no means deſtitute of beauty. The aim at exceſs of magnificence is not a fault peculiar to the builder.

AT a ſmall diſtance to the eaſt is that noble ſpecimen of gothic architecture,WESTMINSTER ABBY. the conventual church of St. Peter's abby of Weſtminſter. The church is ſaid to have been founded about the year 610, by Sebert king of the Eaſt-Saxons, FOUNDED BY SEBERT. on the ruins of the temple of Apollo, flung down, quoth legend, by an earthquake. [60] The king dedicated his new church to St. Peter; who deſcended in perſon, with a hoſt of heavenly choriſters, to ſave the biſhop of Mellitus the trouble of conſecration. The ſaint deſcended on the Surry ſide, in a ſtormy night; but, prevaling on Edric, a fiſherman, to waft him over, performed the ceremony: and, as a proof, left behind the chriſm, and precious droppings of the wax candles, with which the aſtoniſhed fiſherman ſaw the church illuminated. He conveyed the ſaint ſafely back; who directed him to inform the biſhop that there was no farther need of conſecration. He likewiſe directed Edric to fling out his nets, who was rewarded with a miraculous draft of falmons: the ſaint alſo promiſed to the fiſherman and his ſucceſſors, that they never ſhould want plenty of ſalmon, provided they preſented every tenth to his church. This cuſtom was obſerved till at leſt the year 1382. The fiſherman that day had a right to ſit at the ſame table with the prior; and he might demand of the cellerer, ale and bread; and the cellerer again might take of the fiſh's tail as much as he could, with four fingers and his thumb erect.

THE place in which it was built was then ſtyled Thornie iſland, from its being over-run with thorns and briers; and it was beſides inſulated by a branch of the Thames. This church was burnt by the Danes; BURNT BY THE DANES. REBUILT BY EDGAR. and reſtored by the incontinent king Edgar, in 958, under the influence of St. Dunſtan, the moſt continent of men, and ſuch a lover of celibacy that he drove out of the church every married prieſt. Edgar raviſhed nuns: but he founded or re-founded fifty monaſteries; and planted, with very poor endowments, in this, twelve monks of the Benedictine order.

AGAIN BY EDWARD THE CONFESSOR.IT was reſerved for the pious Confeſſor to rebuild both church and abby; he began the work in 1049, and finiſhed it in a moſt [61] magnificent manner in 1066, and endowed it with the utmoſt munificence. An abby is nothing without reliques.RELIQU [...]S. Here was to be found the veil, and ſome of the milk of the virgin: the blade-bone of St. Benedict: the finger of St. Alphage: the head of St. Maxilla: and half the jaw-bone of St. Anaſtaſia. The good Edward was buried in his own church. William the Conqueror beſtowed on his tomb a rich pall: and in 1163, Henry II. lodged his body in a coſtly ferretry, tranſlating it from its priſtine place.

WHETHER from the decay of the building,REBUILT A THIRD TIME BY HENRY III. or a particular zeal and affection Henry III. had for the royal Confeſſor, I cannot ſay, but that prince pulled down the Saxon pile, and rebuilt it in the preſent elegant and magnificent ſtyle. In 1245 he began this great work, in the mode of architecture which began to take place in his days. He did not live to complete his deſign, which was carried on by his ſucceſſor, and finiſhed in his fourteenth year. A caſual fire deſtroyed the roof; but by the piety of Edward and ſeveral of the abbots it was reſtored to the beauty and ſplendor we ſo juſtly admire.

HENRY performed two acts of pious reſpect to the remains of the founders of this abby, which muſt not be omitted. He tranſlated thoſe of Sebert into a tomb of touchſtone, beneath an arch made in the wall. Above were paintings, long ſince defaced, done by order of the king, who was ſtrongly imbued with the love of the arts. Mr. Walpole * has preſerved ſeveral of the precepts for number of paintings in this church, and other places. Among [62] them is directions for painting duos CHERUMBINOS cum hilar i vultu et jocoſo.

SHRINE OF EDWARD THE CONFESSOR, BY CAVALINI.BUT what does that prince the moſt honor is the ſhrine *, which he cauſed to be made in honor of the Confeſſor, placed in a chapel which bears his name. This beautiful moſaic work was the performance of Peter Cavalini, inventor of that ſpecies of ornament. It is ſuppoſed that he was brought into England by the abbot Ware, who viſited Rome in 1256. Weever expreſsly ſays, ‘He brought from thence certain workmen, and rich porphery ſtones, whereof hee made that curious, ſingular, rare pavement before the high altar; and with theſe ſtones and workmen he did alſo frame the ſhrine of Edward the Confeſſor .’ This beautiful memorial conſiſts of three rows of arches; the lower pointed: the upper round. And on each ſide of the lower is a moſt elegant twiſted pillar, an ornament the artiſt ſeems peculiarly fond of. Children, or childiſh age, has greatly injured this beautiful ſhrine, by picking out the moſaic, through the ſhameful connivance of the attendant vergers.

ANOTHER, BY THE SAME ARTIST.THIS is not the only ſpecimen of Cavalini's, ſkill, which we poſſeſs in this kingdom. Mr. Walpole has, at his beautiful villa near town, another ſhrine of his workmanſhip, brought, in 1768, from the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, in Rome; and placed in a chapel in his gardens. It was erected, in 1256, over the bodies of the holy martyrs Simplicius, Fauſtina, and Beatrix, by John James Capoccio, and Vinia his wife. It differs in form from [63] the ſhrine of St. Edward, but is formed of the ſame materials, and adorned with the ſame twiſted columns.

ALONG the freeze of the ſcreen of the chapel, are fourteen legendary ſculptures reſpecting the Confeſſor. They are ſo rudely done, that we may conclude that the art at this time was at a very low ebb. The firſt is the trial of queen Emma. The next the birth of Edward. Another is his coronation. The fourth tells us how our ſaint was frightened into the abolition of the dane-gelt, by his ſeeing the devil dance upon the money bags. The fifth is the ſtory of his winking at the thief who was robbing his treaſury. The ſixth is meant to relate the appearance of our SAVIOUR to him. The ſeventh ſhews how the invaſion of England was fruſtrated by the drowning of the Daniſh king. Eighthly is ſeen the quarrel between the boys Toſti and Harold, predicting their reſpective fates. In the ninth ſculpture is the Confeſſor's viſion of the ſeven ſleepers. Tenthly, how he meets St. John the Evangeliſt in the guiſe of a pilgrim. Eleventhly, how the blind were cured by their eyes being waſhed in his dirty water. Twelfthly, how St. John delivers to the pilgrims a ring. In the thirteenth they deliver the ring to the king, which he had unknowingly given to St. John as an alms, when he met him in the form of a pilgrim. This was attended with a meſſage from the Saint, foretelling the death of the king. And the fourteenth ſhews the conſequential haſte made by him to complete his pious foundation *.

IN this very chapel is a third proof of the ſkill of either Cavalini [64] or ſome of his pupils.HENRY III. HIS TOMB BY THE [...]E. It is an altar tomb of Henry himſelf, enriched like the ſhrine, and with wreathed columns at each corner *. The figure of this prince, who died in 1272, is of braſs, and placed recumbent. This is ſuppoſed to have been the firſt brazen image known to have been caſt in our kingdom. The little book, ſold to the viſitors of this ſolemn ſcenery at the door, will be a ſufficient guide to the fine and numerous funebrial memorials of the place. Let me only obſerve, that here may be read an excellent lecture on the progreſs of theſe efforts of human ſkill, from the ſimple altar tomb to the moſt oſtentatious proofs of human vanity. The humble recumbent figure with uplifted hands, as if deprecating the juſtice of Heaven for the offences of this mortal ſtate; or the proper kneeling attitude, ſupplicating that mercy which the pureſt muſt ſtand in need of, may be ſeen here in various degrees of elegance. The careleſs lolling attitude of heroes in long gowns and flowing perriwigs, next ſucceed; and after them, buſts or ſtatues vaunting their merits, and attended with ſuch a train of Pagan deities, that would almoſt lead to ſuppoſe oneſelf in a heathen Pantheon inſtead of a Chriſtian church.

IN the antient tombs there is a dull uniformity. The ſides are often embelliſhed with figures of the offspring of the deceaſed; often with figures of mourners, pleureurs, or weepers , frequently in monaſtic habits, as whole convents were wont (and ſtill are accuſtomed, [65] in Catholic countries) to pour out their pious inhabitants to form proceſſions at the funerals of the great. The tomb of Aymer de Valence, in this abby, is ſurrounded by his mourners.

IN the reign of queen Elizabeth, and James I. begins to appear a ray of taſte in the ſculptors. I ſhall inſtance one of the ſix ſons of Henry lord Norris, who appear kneeling round his magnificent cenotaph (for he was buried at Rycot) in the chapel of St. Andrew. This figure has one hand on his breaſt, the other a little removed from it, in attitude of devotion, inexpreſſibly fine. Lord Norris died in 1589 *.

ANOTHER proof is in the monument of Sir Francis Vere, who died in 1608, diſtinguiſhed by thirty years of able ſervice in the low countries, in the reign of Elizabeth. He lies in a gown recumbent; over him four [...]ne figures of armed knights, kneeling on one knee, ſupport a marble ſlab, on which are ſtrewed the various parts of his armour. At Bredah is the tomb of Ingelbert II. count of Naſſau, who died in 1504; executed on the ſame idea.

THE figure of young Francis Hollis, ſon of John earl of Clare, cut off at the age of eighteen, in 1622, on his return from a campaign [66] in the Netherlands, has great merit. He is placed, dreſſed like a Grecian warrior, on an altar, in a manner that did great credit to Nicholas Stone, or rather to the earl, to whom Mr. Walpole juſtly attributes the deſign.

THE figure of Doctor Buſby, maſter of Weſtminſter ſchool, who died in 1695, is elegant and ſpirited. He lies reſting on one arm; a pen in one, a book in the other hand: his countenance looking up. His looſe dreſs is very favorable to the ſculptor, who has given it moſt graceful flows: the cloſe cap alone is inimical to his art.

I CANNOT go through the long ſeries of tombs: nor will I attempt, like the Egyptians of old, to bring the ſilent habitants to a poſthumous trial, or bring their frailties to light. I will only mention the crowned heads who here repoſe, till that day comes which will level every diſtinction of rank, and ſhew every individual in his proper characters. Qualis erat, ſays a beautiful and modeſt inſcription, iſte dies indicabit.

EDWARD I.THE ſecond of our monarchs who lies here, is the renowned Edward I. in an altar tomb, as modeſt and plain, as his fame was great. A long inſcription in monkiſh lines imperfectly records the deeds of the conqueror of Scotland, and of the antient Britons. In 1770, antiquarian curioſity was ſo urgent with the reſpectable dean of Weſtminſter, as to prevale on him to permit certain members of the ſociety, under proper regulations, to inſpect the remains of this celebrated hero; and diſcover, if poſſible, the compoſition which gave ſuch duration to the human body.

IN the minute relation given by that able and worthy antiquary the late Sir Joſeph Ayloffe, bart. almoſt every particular is given. [67] On lifting up the lid of the tomb, the royal body was found wrapped in a ſtrong thick linen cloth, waxed on the inſide: the head and face were covered with a ſudarium or face-cloth of crimſon ſarcenet, wrapped into three folds, conformable to the napkin uſed by our Saviour in his way to his crucifixion, as we are aſſured by the church of Rome. On flinging open the external mantle, the corpſe was diſcovered in all the enſigns of majeſty, richly habited. The body was wrapped in a fine linen cere-cloth, cloſely fitted to every part, even to the very fingers and face. The writs de cera renovanda circa corpus regis Edwardi primi * being extant, gave riſe to this ſearch. Over the cere-cloth was a tunic of red ſilk damſk; above that a ſtole of thick white tiſſue croſſed the breaſt, and on this, at ſix inches diſtant from each other, quatre-foils of philligree-work, of gilt metal ſet with falſe ſtones, imitating rubies, ſapphires, amethyſts, &c.; and the intervals between the quatre-foils on the ſtole, powdered with minute white beads, tacked down into a moſt elegant embroidery, in form not unlike what is called the true lover's knot. Above theſe habits was the royal mantle of rich crimſon ſattin, faſtened on the left ſhoulder with a magnificent fibula, of gilt metal richly chaſed, and ornamented with four pieces of red, and four of blue, tranſparent paſte, and twenty-four more pearls.

THE corpſe, from the waiſt downwards, is covered with a rich cloth of figured gold, which falls down to the feet and is tucked beneath them. On the back of each hand was a quatre-foil like thoſe on the ſtole. In his right hand is a ſceptre with a croſs of copper gilt, and of elegant workmanſhip, reaching to the right [68] ſhoulder. In the left hand is the rod and dove, which paſſes over the ſhoulder and reaches the royal ear. The dove ſtands on a ball placed on three ranges of oak leaves of enamelled green; the dove is white enamel. On the head is a crown charged with trefoils made of gilt metal *. The head is lodged in the cavity of the ſtone-coffin, always obſervable in thoſe receptacles of the dead. I refer the reader to the Archaelogia for the other minutiae attendant on the habiting of the royal corſe. It was dreſſed in conformity to antient uſage, even as early as the time of the Saxon Sebert. And the uſe of the cere-cloth is continued to our days: in the inſtance of our late king, the two ſerjeant-ſurgeons had £. 122. 8 s. 9 d. each for opening and embalming; and the apothecary £. 152 for a fine double cere-cloth, and a due quantity of rich perfumed aromatic powders .

ELIANOR HIS QUEEN.ELIANOR of Caſtile, the beautiful and affectionate queen of Edward, was in 1290 depoſited here. Her figure , in copper gilt, reſts on a tablet of the ſame, placed on an altar tomb of Petworth marble.

THE murdered prince Edward II. found his grave at Gloceſter: his ſon,EDWARD III. the glorious warrior Edward III. reſts here. His figure at full length, made of copper once gilt, lies beneath a rich gothic ſhrine of the ſame material. His hair is diſheveled, his beard long and flowing. His gown reaches to his feet. Each hand holds a ſceptre. The figures of his children in braſs ſurround the altar tomb . His worthy queen Philippa was interred [69] at his feet*. Her figure in alabaſter repreſents her as a moſt maſculine woman. She died in 1369: her royal ſpouſe in 1377. His latter end was marked with misfortunes; by the death of his ſon the Black Prince; by a raging peſtilence; but more by his unſeaſonable love in his doating years. How finely does Mr. Gray paint his death, and the gay entrance of his ſucceſſor into power, in the bitter taunt he puts into the mouth of a Britiſh bard!

Mighty victor, mighty lord,
Low on his funeral couch he lies
No pitying heart, no eye, afford
A tear to grace his obſequies.
Is the ſable warrior fled?
Thy ſon is gone: he reſts among the dead!
The ſwarm, that in thy noon-tide beam were born?
Gone to ſalute the riſing morn.
Fair laughs the morn, and ſoft the Zephyr blows,
While, proudly riding o'er the azure realm,
In gallant trim the gilded veſſel goes;
Youth on the prow, and pleaſure at the helm;
Regardleſs of the ſweeping whirlwind's ſway,
That, huſh'd in grim repoſe, expects his evening-prey.

THE tomb of the waſteful unfortunate prince Richard II. and his firſt conſort Anne, daughter of Wincelaus king of Bohemia, RICHARD II. is the next in order. Their figures, in the ſame metal as the former, lie recumbent on it. He had directed theſe to be made in his life-time, by B. and Godfrey, of Woodſtreet, goldſmiths: the expence of gilding them coſt four hundred marks. The countenance [70] of Richard is very unlike the beautiful painting of him on board,HIS PORTRAIT. ſix feet eleven inches high, by three feet ſeven inches broad. He is repreſented ſitting in a chair of ſtate, with a globe in one hand, the ſceptre in the other; a crown on his head; and his dreſs extremely rich and elegant; many parts marked with his initial, R. ſurmounted with a crown. His countenance remarkably fine and gentle, little indicative of his bad and oppreſſive reign*.

THIS picture, after the teſt of near four hundred years, is in the higheſt preſervation; and not leſs remarkable for the elegance of the coloring, than the excellent drawing, conſidering the early age of the performance. We muſt allow it had been re-painted; but nothing ſeems altered, if we may collect from the print made by Vertue, excepting a correction in the ſite of the croſs iſſuing out of the globe. The back ground is elevated above the figure, of an uneven ſurface, and gilt. The curious will find, in Mr. Walpole's Anecdotes, vol. i. an ingenious conjecture of the method of painting in that early period, which has given ſuch amazing duration to the labors of its artiſts.

THIS portrait was originally hung up in the choir of the abby; but about a dozen years ago was removed to the Jeruſalem chamber.

HENRY V.WITHIN a beautiful chapel of gothic workmanſhip, of open iron-work, ornamented with various images, is the tomb of the gallant prince Henry V. a ſtriking contraſt to the weak and [71] luxurious Richard. This was built by Henry VII. in compliment to his illuſtrious relation and predeceſſor. His queen Catherine had before erected his monument, and placed his image, cut in heart of oak, and covered over with ſilver, on an altar tomb; the head was (as the guide tells us) of ſolid ſilver, which, in the reign of Henry VIII. was ſacrilegiouſly ſtolen away. The wooden headleſs trunk ſtill remains.

ON each ſide of this royal chapel is a winding ſtaircaſe, incloſed in a turret of open iron-work, which leads into a chauntry founded for the purpoſe of maſſes, for the repoſe of the ſoul of this great prince. The front looks over the ſhrine of the Confeſſor. Here is kept a parcel of human figures, which in old times were dreſſed out and carried at funeral proceſſions; but at preſent very deſervedly have got the name of the ragged regiment. More worthy of notice is the elegant termination of the columellae of the two ſtaircaſes, which ſpread at the top of the turrets into roofs of uncommon elegance.

ONE end of this chauntry reſts againſt that of the chapel of Henry VII. Among the ſtone ſtatues placed there is the French patron St. Dennis, moſt compoſedly carrying his head in his hand.

ON the ſouth ſide of the chauntry, over his monument, is the repreſentation of his coronation. The figure of Henry is diſtinguiſhed by a wen under his chin. It is probable that it was belonging to that monarch, as it is not to be ſuppoſed that the ſculptor would have added a deformity*.

CATHERINE, his royal conſort,HIS QUEEN. had leſs reſpect payed to her [72] remains. She had ſunk from the bed of the conqueror of France, to that of a common gentleman: yet gave to theſe kingdoms a long line of princes. She died in 1437, and was interred in the chapel of our lady in this church. When her grandſon Henry VII. ordered that to be pulled down, to make room for his own magnificent chapel, he ungratefully neglected the remains of this his anceſtreſs, and ſuffered them to be flung careleſsly into a wooden cheſt, where they ſtill reſt near her Henry's tomb.

EDWARD V. AND HIS BROTHER.NEXT is the cenotaph of the two innocents, Edward V. and his brother Richard duke of York. In the reign of Charles II. certain ſmall bones were found in a cheſt under a ſtaircaſe in the Tower. Theſe, by order of Charles, were removed here; and, under the ſuppoſition of their belonging to the murdered princes, this memorial of their ſad fate was erected, by order of that humane monarch, after a deſign by Sir Chriſtopher Wren *.

HENRY VII. HIS CHAPEL.IN order of time I muſt paſs into the beautiful chapel of Henry VII. nearly the rival in elegance with that of King's College Cambridge. Who can look at the roof of either without the higheſt admiration! Henry, finding the chapel of the Confeſſor too much crouded to receive any more princes, determined on the building of this. That of the Virgin was ſacrificed to it; alſo an adjacent tavern, diſtinguiſhed by the popular ſign of the White Roſe. Abbot Iſlip, on the part of the king, laid the firſt ſtone, on February 11th, 1503. The royal miſer ſcrupled no expence in this piece of vanity. By his will it appears, that he expreſsly intended it as the mauſoleum of him and his houſe, and that none but the [73] blood royal ſhould be interred in this magnificent foundation. It was built at the expence of fourteen thouſand pounds *. In the body of this chapel is his ſuperb tomb, the work of Pietro Torregiano, a Florentine ſculptor; who had, for his labor and the materials, one thouſand pounds. This admirable artiſt continued in London till the completion of his work in 1519. But the reigning prince and Torregiano were of tempers equally turbulent, ſo they ſoon ſeparated . To him is attributed the altar tomb of Margeret counteſs of Richmond, with her figure recumbent in braſs. Henry VII. had made a ſpecial proviſion for this tomb in his will , for the images and various other ornaments,HIS TOMB. which were to decorate this his place of reſt. The tomb itſelf is, as he directed, made of a hard Baſaltic ſtone, called in the language of thoſe days Touche. The figures contained in the ſix bas reliefs in braſs on the ſides, are ſtrong proofs of the ſkill of the artiſt. The figures ſuit the ſuperſtition of the times: St. Michael and the devil, joined with the Virgin and Child: St. George with St. Anthony and his pig: St. Chriſtopher, and perhaps St. Anne: Edward the Confeſſor, and a Benedictine monk: Mary Magdalen, and St. Barbara: and ſeveral others. One pretence is a reſpect to his grandmother, whoſe bones he left flung into an ordinary cheſt. He and his quiet neglected queen lie in braſs on an altar tomb within the beautiful brazen precinct; his face reſembles all his portraits. I have ſeen a model, a ſtill ſtronger likeneſs, in poſſeſſion of Mr. Walpole; a buſt in [74] ſtone taken from his face immediately after his death. A ſtronger reluctance to quit the poſſeſſions of this world could never be expreſſed on the countenance of the moſt griping mortal.

WITHIN the grate of the tomb was an altar of a ſingle piece of touchſtone, deſtroyed by the fanatics, to which he bequeathed ‘our grete piece of the holie croſſe, which, by the high proviſion of our Lord God, was conveied, brought, and delivered to us from the iſle of Cyo, in Grece, ſet in gold and garniſhed with perles and precious ſtones: and alſo the preciouſe relique of oon of the legges of St. George, ſet in ſilver parcel gilte, which came into the hands of our broder and couſyn Lewys, of France, the time that he wan and recovered the citie of Millein, and given and ſent to us by our couſyne the cardinal of Amboiſe *.’

QUEEN ELIZABETH AND MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS.HERE alſo reſt, freed from the cares of their eventful reigns, the rival queens, Elizabeth, and the unhappy Mary Stuart. The ſame ſpecies of monument incloſes both, in this period of the revival of the arts. The figures of each lie under an elegant canopy ſupported by pillars of the Corinthian order . Two great blemiſhes obſcure the characters of this illuſtrious pair. Elizabeth will never be vindicated from treachery, hypocriſy, and cruelty in the death of Mary. The love of her ſubjects was the pretext: the reality, a female jealouſy of ſuperior charms at the bottom, with the ſpretae injuria formae, diſcovered in a letter of paſſion, accuſing another female , perhaps equally touched with [75] the ſame tormenting paſſion. The long and undeſerved ſufferings of Mary, from one of her own ſex, a ſiſter princeſs, from whom ſhe had reaſon to expect every relief, makes one forget her crime, and fling a veil over the fault of diſtreſſed, yet criminal beauty.

THE peaceful pedant James I, his amiable Henry, JAMES TO GEORGE II. and the royal rakiſh Charles, the ſecond of the name; the ſullen miſ-treated hero William, his royal conſort the patient Mary, Anne, glorious in her generals, and George II. repoſe within the royal vault of this chapel. No monument blazons their virtues: it is left to hiſtory to record the buſy, and often empty tale of majeſty. George I. was buried at Hanover; his ſon cauſed a vault to be made in this for himſelf, his Caroline, and family, and directed that the ſide-board of her coffin, and that of his own (when his hour came) to be conſtructed in ſuch a manner as to be removed, ſo that their loving duſt might intermingle.

I SHALL drop theſe ſubjects of mortality, with pointing out a ſingle monument of inferior note. A very fine figure of Time, cut in Italy, in white marble, holds in his hand a ſcroll, with an inſcription of uncommon elegance, written by Doctor Friend, to commemorate the premature death of the honorable Philip Carteret, at the age of 19. Time thus ſeems to addreſs himſelf to him *:

Quid breves te delicias tuorum,
Naeniis Phoebi chorus omnis urget
Et mei falcis ſubitò reciſum
Vulnere plangit?
[76]En puer! vitae pretium caducae
Hic tuum cuſtos vigil ad favillam
Semper ad [...]tabo et memori tuebor
Marmore famam:
Andies claros pietate, morum
Integer, multae ſtudioſus artis:
Hic frequens olim leget, haec ſequetur
Aemula pubes.
Why flows the M [...]ſe's mournful tear
For thee, cut down in life's full prime?
ELEGANT INSCRIPTION ON A YOUTH.
Why fighs for thee the parent dear,
Cropt by the ſcythe of hoary Time?
[76]Lo! this, my boy's the common lot—
To me thy memory entruſt;
When all that's dear ſhall be forgot,
I'll guard thy venerated duſt.
From age to age, as I proclaim
Thy learning, piety, and truth,
Thy great example ſhall inflame,
And emulation raiſe in youth *.
*
Thus tranſlated in the little hiſtorical deſcription, &c.

I SHALL quit theſe ſolemn ſcenes with the beautiful reflection of Mr. Addiſon, made on the ſpot: and hope it may have the ſame weight with the reader, as it has on me whenever I peruſe the following piece of inſtructive eloquence. ‘When I look (ſays the delightful moraliſt) upon the tombs of the great, every emotion of envy dies in me: when I read the epitaphs of the beautiful, every inordinate deſire goes out: when I meet with the grief of parents upon a tomb-ſtone, my heart melts with compaſſion: when I ſee the tomb of the parents themſelves, I conſider the vanity of grieving for thoſe whom we muſt quickly follow: when I ſee kings lying by thoſe who depoſed them, when I conſider rival wits placed ſide by ſide, or the holy men that divided the world with their conteſts and diſputes, I reflect with ſorrow and aſtoniſhment on the little competitions, factions, and debates of mankind. When I read the ſeveral dates of the tombs, of ſome that died yeſterday, [77] and ſome ſix hundred years ago, I conſider that great day when we ſhall all of us be contemporaries, and make our appearance together.’

ON the diſſolution, this great monaſtery, the ſecond mitred abby in the kingdom, underwent the common lot of the religious houſes. In 1534, the abbot, William Benſon, ſubſcribed to the king's ſupremacy, and in 1539 ſurrendered his monaſtery into the royal hands, and received as a reward the office of firſt dean to the new foundation, conſiſting of a dean and twelve prebendaries. He alſo erected it into a biſhoprick, but its only biſhop was Thomas Thirleby; it being ſuppreſſed in 1550, on his tranſlation to Norwich. When the protector Somerſet ruled in the fulneſs of power, this magnificent, this ſacred pile narrowly eſcaped a total demolition. It was his deſign to have pulled it down to the ground, and to have applied the materials towards the palace he was then erecting in the Strand, known by the name of Somerſet-houſe. He was diverted from his deſign by a bribe of not fewer than fourteen manors.— Mortals ſhould be very delicate in pronouncing the vengeance of Heaven on their fellow-creatures: yet, in this inſtance, without preſumption, without ſuperſtition, one may ſuppoſe his fall to have been marked out by the Almighty, as a warning to impious men. He fell on the ſcaffold on Tower-hill, lamented only becauſe his overthrow was effected by a man more wicked, more ambitious, and more deteſted than himſelf. In their ends there was a conſent of juſtice: both died by the ax: and both of their headleſs bodies were flung, within a very ſhort ſpace, into the ſame place, among the attainted herd.

IN the reign of queen Mary, the former religion of the place experienced a brief reſtoration. She with great zeal reſtored it [78] to the antient conventual ſtate; collected many of the rich habits and inſignia of that ſplendid worſhip; eſtabliſhed fourteen monks, and appointed for their abbot John Feckenham, a man of great piety and learning, who, on his expulſion in the ſucceeding reign, finiſhed his days in eaſy cuſtody in Wiſbech caſtle.

IN 1560 it was changed into a collegiate church, conſiſting of a dean and twelve ſecular canons, and thirty petty canons, and other members, two ſchool-maſters, and forty king's or queen's ſcholars, twelve almſmen, and many officers and ſervants *. But there ſeems to have been a ſchool there from the firſt foundation of the abby. Ingulphus, abbot of Crowland, ſpeaks of his having been educated at it; and of the diſputations he had with the queen of the Confeſſor, and of the preſents ſhe made him in money in his boyiſh days .

CLOISTERS, AND CHAPTER-HOUSE.BESIDES the church, many of the antient parts remain. The cloiſters are entire, and filled with monuments. The north and weſt cloiſters were built by abbot Littlington, who died in 1386: he alſo built the granary, which was afterwards the dormitory of the king's ſcholars; of later years rebuilt.

THE entrance into the chapter-houſe (built in 1250) is on one ſide of the cloiſter, through a moſt rich and magnificent gothic portal, the mouldings moſt exquiſitely carved: this is divided into two gothic doors. After a deſcent of ſeveral ſteps, is the chapter-houſe, an octagon, each ſide of which had moſt ſuperb and lofty windows, now filled up, and lighted by leſſer. The opening into this room is as noble as that from the cloiſter. The ſtone [79] roof is deſtroyed, and one of plank is ſubſtituted. The central pillar remains, light, ſlender, and elegant, ſurrounded by eight others; bound by two equidiſtant faſciae, and terminated in capitals of beautiful ſimplicity. By conſent of the abbot, in 1377, the commons of Great Britain firſt held their parlements in his place; the crown undertaking the repairs. Here they ſat till the year 1547, when Edward VI. granted the chapel of St. Stephen for that purpoſe. It is at preſent filled with the public records, among which is the original Domeſday book, now above ſeven hundred years old: it is in as fine preſervation as if it was the work of yeſterday.

BENEATH the chapter-houſe is a very ſingular crypt. The roof, which forms the floor of the former, is ſupported by a ſhort round pillar, quite hollow. The top ſpreads into maſſy plain ribs, the ſupports of the roof. The walls are not leſs than eighteen feet thick, and form a moſt firm baſe to the ſuperſtructure. They had been pierced with ſeveral ſmall windows, which are now loſt by the vaſt increaſe of earth on the outſide *; one is juſt viſible in the garden belonging to Mr. Barrow.

THE Jeruſalem chamber was part of the abbot's lodgings; and built by Littlington. It is noted for having been the place where Henry IV. breathed his laſt: he had been ſeized with a ſwoon while he was paying before the ſhrine of St. Edward; and, being carried into this room, aſked, on recovering, where he was? being informed, he anſwered, (I will ſpeak his reply in the words of Shakeſpear, borrowed from hiſtory)

[80]
Laud be to God!—even there my life muſt end.
It hath been propheſied to me many years
I ſhould not die but in Jeruſalem,
Which vainly I ſuppos'd the HOLY LAND!

The devil is ſaid to have practiſed ſuch a deluſion on pope Sylveſter II. having (on conſultation) aſſured his holineſs that he ſhould die in Jeruſalem; and kept his word, by taking him off as he was ſaying maſs, in 1003, in a church of that name in Rome *.

I OMITTED to mention the revenues of this great houſe, which, in its monaſtic ſtate, Speed makes to amount to £. 3977 per ann. Dugdale to £. 3471.

SANCTUARY.NOT far from the abby ſtood the Sanctuary, the place of refuge abſurdly indulged, in old times, to criminals of certain denominations. The church belonging to it was in form of a croſs, and double; one being built over the other. Such is the account that Doctor Stukely gives of it, for he remembered it ſtanding : it was of vaſt ſtrength; and was with much labor demoliſhed. It is ſuppoſed to have been the work of the Confeſſor. Within its precincts was born Edward V; and here his unhappy mother took refuge, with her younger ſon Richard, to ſecure him from his cruel uncle, who had already poſſeſſion of the elder brother. Seduced by the perſuaſions of the duke of Buckingham, and [...] archbiſhop of York, ſhe ſurrendered the little innocent, who was inſtantly carried to his brother in the Tower, where they were ſoon after involved in one common fate.

[81]TO the weſt of the ſanctuary ſtood the Eleemoſynary or Almory, where the alms of the abby were wont to be diſtributed. But it is ſtill more remarkable for having been the place where the firſt printing preſs ever known in England was erected. It was in the year 1474; when William Caxton, probably encouraged by the learned Thomas Milling, then abbot, produced The Game and Play of the Cheſſe, the firſt book ever printed in theſe kingdoms. There is a ſlight difference about the place in which it was printed, but all agree that it was within the precincts of this religious houſe. Would the monks have permitted this, could they have foreſeen how certainly the art would conduce to their overthrow, by the extenſion of knowlege, and the long-concealed truths of Chriſtianity?

BENEATH the ſhadow of the abby ſtands the church of St. Margeret, built originally by Edward the Confeſſor.ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH. The pariſh church had been in the abby, to the great inconveniency of the monks. It was rebuilt in the time of Edward I. and again in that of Edward IV. This church is honored with the remains of the great Sir Walter Raleigh, who was interred here on the ſame day on which he was beheaded in Old Palace Yard. It was left to a ſenſible churchwarden to inform us of the fact, who inſcribed it on a board, about twenty years ago.

THE eaſt window is a moſt beautiful compoſition of figures.ITS FINE WINDOW. It was made by order of the magiſtrates of Dort, and by them deſigned as a preſent to Henry VII; but he dying before it was finiſhed, it was put up in Waltham abby: there it remained till the diſſolution; when it was removed to Newhall in Eſſex, afterwards part of the eſtate of general Monk, who preſerved it from demolition. In 1758 it was purchaſed from the then owner by the inhabitants [82] of the pariſh for four hundred guineas. By the oppoſition and abſurdity of a cotemporary prebend, this fine ornament run a great riſque of being pulled down again. The ſubject is the crucifixion; a devil is carrying off the ſoul of the hardened thief; an angel receiving that of the penitent. Silly enough! but the other beauties of the piece might ſurely have moved the reverend zealot to mercy. The figures are numerous, and finely done. On one ſide is Henry VI. kneeling; above him his patron ſaint, St. George. On the other ſide is his queen in the ſame attitude, and above her the fair St. Catherine with the inſtruments of her martyrdom. This charming performance is engraved at the coſt of the Society of Antiquaries.

PALACE AT WESTMINSTER.THE royal palace which clames ſeniority in our capital, was that of Weſtminſter, founded by the Confeſſor, who was the firſt prince who had in it regular reſidence. It ſtood near the Thames: the ſtairs to it on the river ſtill keep the name of Palace ſtairs; and the two Palace Yards were alſo belonging to this extenſive pile.

THE New Palace Yard is the area before the hall. In old times a very handſome conduit, or, as it was called, fountain, graced one part: and oppoſite to the hall, on the ſite of the preſent paſſage into Bridge-ſtreet, ſtood a lofty ſquare tower, which, from its uſe, was called the Clock Tower. This may be ſeen in Hollar's print, No 6, and in the old plan of London, as it was in the beginning of the reign of queen Elizabeth.

WESTMINSTER-HALL.MANY parts of this antient palace exiſt to this day, ſunk into other uſes. Succeeding monarchs added much to it. The great hall was built by William Rufus, or poſſibly rebuilt; a great hall being too neceſſary an appendage to a palace, ever to have been [83] neglected. The entrance into it from New Palace Yard, was bounded on each ſide by towers *, moſt magnificently ornamented with numbers of ſtatues in rows above each other, now loſt, or concealed by modern buildings; a mutilated figure of an armed man, ſuppoſed to have been one, was diſcovered under the Exchequer ſtaircaſe in 1781 . The ſize may be eſtimated, when we are told that Henry III. entertained in this hall, and other rooms, ſix thouſand poor men, women, and children, on new-year's day, 1236. It became ruinous before the reign of Richard II. who rebuilt it in its preſent form in 1397; and in 1399 kept his Chriſtmas in it, with his characteriſtical magnificence. Twenty-eight oxen, three hundred ſheep, and fowls without number, were daily conſumed. The number of his gueſts each day were ten thouſand. We need not wonder then, that Richard kept two thouſand cooks. They certainly were deeply learned in their profeſſion; witneſs The Forme of Cury, compiled about 1390, by the maſter cooks of this luxurious monarch, in which are preſerved receits for the moſt exquiſite diſhes of the time. This book was printed by the late worthy Guſtavus Brander, eſq with an excellent preface by that able antiquary the reverend Mr. Pegge. Mr. Brander favored me with a copy: but, excepting a magician of Laputa could conjure up a few of Richard's cooks, I deſpair of ever treating my brethren with a feaſt à l'antique.

THIS room exceeds in dimenſion any in Europe, which is not ſupported by pillars; its length is two hundred and ſeventy feet; the breadth ſeventy-four. Its height adds to its ſolemnity. The [84] roof of timber, moſt curiouſly conſtructed, and of a fine ſpecies of gothic.

PARLEMENTS HELD IN IT.PARLEMENTS often ſat in this hall. In 1397, when, in the reign of Richard II. it was extremely ruinous, he built a temporary room for his parlement, formed with wood, and covered with tiles. It was open on all ſides, that the conſtituents might ſee every thing that was ſaid and done: and, to ſecure freedom of debate, he ſurrounded the houſe with four thouſand Cheſhire archers, with bows bent, and arrows nocked ready to ſhoot *. This fully anſwered the intent: for every ſacrifice was made to the royal pleaſure.

COURTS OF IUSTICE.COURTS of juſtice, even in early times, ſat in this hall, where monarchs themſelves uſually preſided; for which reaſon it was called Curia Domini Regis, and one of the three now held in this hall is called the court of king's-bench. The firſt chief juſtice was Robert Le Brun, appointed by Henry III. The judges of the courts were made knights bannerets, and had materials given them for making moſt ſumptuous habits for the occaſion. Among others, they had for a cloak cxx bellies of minever pure, i. e. the ermine, which they retain to this day; but I obſerve green to be the predominant color of their robes. The judges in old times rode to court: at firſt on mules; but in the reign of queen Mary, they changed thoſe reſtive animals for eaſy pads.

CHARLES I. TRIED HERE.THE ſolemn trial of Charles I. was held in this hall, before a packed court of judicature: during the intervals of this mockery of juſtice, he was carried to the neighboring houſe belonging to Sir Thomas Cotton, in which a room was fitted up by Mr. Kinnerſley, a ſervant of the king's, belonging to the wardrobe. This was [85] the reſidence of his father, Sir Robert, the famous antiquary, and owner of the noble collection of manuſcripts, which, with great public ſpirit, he got together and ſecured for ever to the uſe of his country. They were at firſt kept in Cotton-houſe, which was purchaſed by the crown. They were afterwards removed to another houſe in Weſtminſter, and finally depoſited in the Britiſh Muſeum. Let me add, that the room in which the books were originally lodged, had been the oratory of Edward the Confeſſor.

THE houſe of lords is a room ornamented with the tapeſtry which records our victory over the Spaniſh Armada. HOUSE OF LORDS. It was beſpoke by the earl of Nottingham, lord high admiral, and commander in chief on the glorious day. The deſign was drawn by Cornelius Vroom, and the tapeſtry executed by Francis Spiering. Vroom had a hundred pieces of gold for his labor. The arras itſelf coſt £. 1628. It was not put up till the year 1650, two years after the extinction of monarchy, when the houſe of lords was uſed as a committee-room for the houſe of commons. The heads of the naval heroes who commanded on the glorious days, form a matchleſs border round the work, animating poſterity to emulate their illuſtrious example!

IN the Prince's chamber, where his majeſty puts on his robes when he comes to the houſe of lords, is a curious old tapeſtry, repreſenting the birth of queen Elizabeth. Anne Bullen in her bed; an attendant on one ſide, and a nurſe with the child on the other. The ſtory is a little broken into by the loſs of a piece of the Arras, cut to make a paſſage for the door. But beyond is Henry with his courtiers; one of which ſeems diſpatched to bring [86] back intelligence about the event. On the ſouth ſide of this room are three gothic windows.

COURT OF REQUESTS.THE court of requeſts is a vaſt room modernized; at preſent a mere walking-place. The outſide of the ſouth end ſhews the great antiquity of the building, having in it two great round arches, with zigzag mouldings, our moſt antient ſpecies of architecture. This court has its name becauſe the maſters of it here received the petitions of the ſubjects to the king, in which they requeſted juſtice; and the maſters adviſed the ſuppliants how they were to proceed *.

THAT court of juſtice ſo tremendous in the Tudor and part of the Stuart reign, the Star Chamber, ſtill keeps its name; which was not taken from the ſtars with which its roof was ſaid to have been painted (which were obliterated even before the reign of queen Elizabeth), but from the Starra , or Jewiſh covenants, which were depoſited there by order of Richard I. in cheſts under three locks. No ſtarr was allowed to be valid except found in thoſe repoſitories: here they remained till the baniſhment of the Jews by Edward I. In the reigns of Henry VII. and VIII. a new-modelled court was erected here, conſiſting of divers lords ſpiritual and temporal, with two judges of the courts of common law, with the intervention of a jury . The powers of this court were ſo ſhamefully abuſed, and made ſo ſubſervient to the revenge of a miniſtry, or the views of the crown, as to be aboliſhed by the reforming commons in the 16th of Charles II , to [87] the great joy of the whole nation. The room is now called the Painted Chamber, and is uſed as the place of conference between the lords and commons. It makes a very poor appearance, being hung with very antient French or Arras tapeſtry, which, by the names worked over the figures, ſeems to relate to the Trojan war. The windows are of the antient ſimple gothic. On the north outſide, beyond the windows, are many marks of receſſes, groins, arms, on the remains of ſome other room.

NUMBERS of other great apartments are ſtill preſerved on each ſide of the entrance into Weſtminſter-hall, in the law court of exchequer, and adjacent; and the ſame in the money exchequer, and the dutchy of Lancaſter: all theſe had been the parts of the antient palace.

AT the foot of the ſtaircaſe is a round pillar, having on it the arms of John Stafford, lord treaſurer from 1422 to 1424. On the oppoſite part are the arms of Ralph lord Botelar, of Sudley, treaſurer of the exchequer in 1433 *.

CLOSE to Mr. Waghorn's coffee-houſe, in Old Palace Yard, GUY FAUR'S CELLAR. is the vault or cellar in which the conſpirators of 1605 lodged the barrels of gunpowder, deſigned at one blow to annihilate the three eſtates of the realm in parlement aſſembled. To this day, the manner in which Providence directed the diſcovery is unknown. The plot evidently was confined to a few perſons of deſperate zeal and wickedneſs: they did not dare to truſt ſo dreadful a deſign to the multitude. The ſucceſs, they knew, muſt be followed with a general inſurrection, and completion of their wiſhes. The opportunity would have been too irreſiſtible, even to thoſe [88] who, in cool blood, would have rejected with horror a plan ſo truly diabolical.

HOUSE OF COMMONS, ONCE ST. STEPHEN'S CHAPEL.THE commons of Great Britain hold their aſſemblies in this place, which was built by king Stephen, and dedicated to his nameſake the protomartyr. It was beautifully rebuilt by Edward III. in 1347, and by him made a collegiate church, and a dean and twelve ſecular prieſts appointed *. Soon after its ſurrender to Edward VI. it was applied to its preſent uſe. The revenues at that period were not leſs than £. 1085 a year.

WEST FRONT.THE weſt front, with its beautiful gothic window, is ſtill to be ſeen as we aſcend the ſtairs to the court of requeſts; it conſiſts of the ſharp-pointed ſpecies of gothic. Between it and the lobby of the houſe is a ſmall veſtibule of the ſame ſort of work, and of great elegance. At each end is a gothic door, and one in the middle, which is the paſſage into the lobby. On the ſouth ſide of the outmoſt wall of the chapel, appear the marks of ſome great gothic windows, with abutments between; and beneath, ſome leſſer windows, once of uſe to light an under chapel. The inſide of St. Stephen's is adapted to the preſent uſe, and plainly fitted up.

SUB-CHAPEL.THE under chapel had been a moſt beautiful building: the far greater part is preſerved, but frittered into various diviſions, occupied principally by the paſſage from Weſtminſter-hall to Palace Yard.

Figure 1. CHARLES the 1st. From an Original Bronze by Bernini, From a Lecture by Vandyke.

THE far greater part of the under-chapel of St. Stephen, is poſſeſſed by his grace the duke of Newcaſtle, as auditor of the exchequer. One ſide of the cloiſter is entirely preſerved,BEAUTIFUL CLOISTER. by being found convenient as a paſſage: the roof is gothic workmanſhip, ſo elegant as not to be paralleled even by the beautiful workmanſhip in the chapel of Henry VII. Several parts are walled up for the meaneſt uſes; even a portion ſerves, with its rich roof, for a coal-hole. That which has the good fortune to be allotted for the ſteward's room, is very well kept. In one part of the roof is cut a neat, and, I believe, true repreſentation of the front of the chapel, bounded on each ſide by a turret. Another of the ſame kind, held by an angel, appears on the wall.

ON one ſide of the cloiſter,SMALL ORATORY AND CHAUNTRY. projects into the area a ſmall oratory, as richly ornamented as other parts of this building: above is a neat chauntry in the ſame ſtyle. A gallery runs over each ſide of the cloiſter, with windows of light ſtone tracery, looking into the court or area, which is deformed by a modern kitchen and its appendages.

FROM one part of the gallery is a ſtairs,ANTIENT SQUARE TOWER. which leads to a very antient ſquare tower of ſtone, ſtanding almoſt cloſe to the ſide of Weſtminſter-hall. It probably was a belfry, to hold the bells that rouſed the holy members of the chapel to prayer.

IN what is called the grotto room,SCULPTURES OF ST. STEPHEN. are fine remains of the roof and columns of this ſub-chapel. The roof is ſpread over with ribs of ſtone, which reſt on the numerous round pillars that compoſe the ſupport. The pillars are ſhort; the capitals round [90] and ſmall, with a neat foliage intervening. In a circle on the roof, is a martyrdom of St. Stephen, cut in ſtone. In another circle, is a repreſentation of St. John the Evangeliſt caſt into a cauldron of boiling oil, by command of the emperor Domitian.

WOOL-STAPLE.NOT far from Weſtminſter-hall, in New Palace Yard, ſtood the ſtaple of wool, removed to Weſtminſter, and ſeveral other places in England, in 1353, by Edward III. Theſe before had been kept in Flanders: but this wiſe meaſure brought great wealth into the kingdom, and a conſiderable addition to the royal revenue: for the parlement in thoſe days granted to the king a certain ſum on every ſack exported. Henry VI. had ſix wool-houſes here, which he granted to the dean and canons of St. Stephen's *. The concourſe of people, which this removal of the wool-ſtaple to Weſtminſter occaſioned, cauſed this royal village to grow into a conſiderable town: ſuch is the ſuperiority of commerce. Part of the old gateway to the ſtaple was in being as late as the year 1741, when it was pulled down to make room for the abutment of the new bridge .

WESTMINSTER BRIDGE.THE firſt ſtone of that noble ſtructure was laid on January 24th, 1739, by Henry earl of Pembroke, a nobleman, of whom Mr. Walpole ſays, none had a purer taſte in architecture. It was built after the deſign of Monſieur Labelye, an ingenious architect, a native of France. The laſt ſtone was laid in November 1747, ſo that it was eight years and nine months in completing, at the expence of £. 389,500. Its length is 1223 feet; the number of arches fourteen, that in the center ſeventy-ſix feet wide. In this bridge, grandeur and ſimplicity are united. Fault has been [91] found with the great height of the baluſtrades, which deny to the paſſengers a clear view of the noble expanſe of water, and the fine objects, eſpecially to the eaſt, which are ſcattered with no ſparing hand. I cannot agree with the happy thought of the French traveller *, who aſſures us, that the cauſe was to prevent the ſuicide to which the Engliſh have ſo ſtrong a propenſity, particularly in the gloomy month of November; for, had they been low, how few could reſiſt the charming opportunity of ſpringing over, whereas at preſent, the difficulty of climbing up theſe heights is ſo great, that the poor hypochondriac has time to cool; and, deſiſting from his glorious purpoſe, think proper to give his days their full length, and end them like a good chriſtian in his peaceful bed.

THE tide has been known to riſe at this bridge twenty-two feet;TIDE. much to the inconveniency of the inhabitants of the lower parts of Weſtminſter, for at ſuch times their cellars are laid under water; but its height depends much on the force and direction of the wind at the time of flood.

BEYOND this palace, to the north,CANON, OR CHANNEL ROW. ſtood ſome ſtreets and lanes by the water-ſide, diſtinguiſhed in older times by the reſidence of ſome of our nobility. In Canon Row, ſo named from being inhabited by the canons of the church, but corrupted into Channel Row, was the ſtately houſe built by the termagant Anne Stanhope, wife to the protector Somerſet; whoſe diſpute, about ſome point of female precedency, is ſaid to have contributed in ſome degree to her huſband's fall. She left this houſe to her ſon Edward earl of Hertford. Here William earl of Derby had, in 1603, a fair manſion; and Henry Clinton earl of Lincoln, another; and [92] in this row, Anne Clifford tell us, that on the firſt of May, 1589, ſhe was begotten by her moſt valiant father George earl of Cumberland, on the body of her moſt virtuous mother Margaret, daughter of Francis earl of Bedford. Aſtoniſhing accuracy!

IN this part of the town were ſome other houſes of our nobility. In the remote Tothil ſtreet, ſtood the houſes of lord Grey, and of lord Dacres, mentioned in Norden's map of London, in 1603; and in Lea's map, publiſhed in 1700, is the earl of Lindeſey's houſe near Old Palace Yard; of which I find no other account, than that it was inhabited, in 1707, by one of the Dormers, earl of Caernarvon *.

PALACE OF WHITEHALL.IMMEDIATELY beyond theſe buildings began the vaſt palace of Whitehall. It was originally built by Hubert de Burgh earl of Kent, the great, the perſecuted juſticiary of England, in the reign of Henry III. He bequeathed it to the Black Friars in Holborn, and they diſpoſed of it to Walter de Grey archbiſhop of York, in 1248. It became for centuries the reſidence of the prelates of that ſee, and was ſtyled York-houſe. In it Wolſey took his final leave of greatneſs. The profuſion of rich things; hangings of cloth of gold and of ſilver; thouſands of pieces of fine Holland; the quantities of plate, even of pure gold, which covered two great tables , (all of which were ſeized by his cruel rapacious maſter) are proofs of his amazing wealth, ſplendor, and pride. Henry deigned to purchaſe the palace from his fallen ſervant: the antient palace of Weſtminſter having ſome time before ſuffered greatly by fire. From this time it became the reſidence of our [93] princes, till it was almoſt wholly deſtroyed by the ſame element in 1697.

HENRY had an uncommon compoſition: his ſavage cruelty could not ſuppreſs his love of the arts: his love of the arts could not ſoften his ſavage cruelty. The prince who could, with the utmoſt ſang froid, burn Catholics and Proteſtants, take off the heads of the partners of his bed one day, and celebrate new nuptials the next, had, notwithſtanding, a ſtrong taſte for refined pleaſures. He cultivated architecture and painting, and invited from abroad artiſts of the firſt merit. To Holbein was owing the moſt beautiful gate at Whitehall, built with bricks of two colors,FINE GATE. glazed, and diſpoſed in a teſſelated faſhion. The top, as well as that of an elegant tower on each ſide, were embattled. On each front were four buſts in baked clay, in proper colors, which reſiſted to the laſt every attack of the weather: poſſibly the artificial ſtone revived in this century. Theſe, I have been lately informed, are preſerved in a private hand. This charming ſtructure fell a ſacrifice to conveniency within my memory: as did another in 1723, built at the ſame time, but of far inferior beauty *. The laſt blocked up the road to King-ſtreet, and was called King's-gate. Henry built it as a paſſage to the park, the tennis-court, bowling-green, the cock-pit, and tilting-yard; for he was extremely fond of athletic exerciſes; they ſuited his ſtrength and his temper.

IT was the intention of William duke of Cumberland, to rebuild the beautiful gate, firſt mentioned, at the top of the long [94] walk at Windſor, and for that purpoſe had all the parts and ſtones numbered; but unfortunately the deſign was never executed.

TILT-YARD.THE tilt-yard was equally the delight of his daughter Elizabeth, as ſingular a compoſition: for, with the trueſt patriotiſm, and moſt diſtinguiſhed abilities, were interwoven the greateſt vanity,VANITY OF QUEEN ELIZABETH. and moſt romantic diſpoſition. Here, in her ſixty-ſixth year, with wrinkled face, red perriwig, little eyes, hooked noſe, ſkinny lips, and black teeth *, ſhe could ſuck in the groſs flatterie; of her favored courtiers. Eſſex (by his ſquire) here told her of her beauty and worth. A Dutch ambaſſador aſſured her majeſty, that he had undertaken the voyage to ſee her majeſty, who for beauty and wiſdom excelled all other beauties in the world. She labored at an audience to make Melvil acknowlege that his charming miſtreſs was inferior in beauty to herſelf . The artful Scot evaded her queſtion. She put on a new habit of every foreign nation, each day of audience, to attract his admiration. So fond was ſhe of dreſs, that three thouſand different habits were found in her wardrobe after her death. Mortifying reflection! in finding ſuch alloy in the greateſt characters.

SHE was very fond of dancing. I admire the humour ſhe ſhewed in uſing this exerciſe, whenever a meſſenger came to her from her ſucceſſor James VI. of Scotland: for Sir Roger Aſton aſſures us, that whenever he was to deliver any letters to her from his maſter, on lifting up of the hangings, he was ſure to find her dancing to a little fiddle, affectedly, that he might tell James, by [95] her youthful diſpoſition, how unlikely he was to come to the throne he ſo much thirſted after *.

HENTZNER, who viſited this palace in 1598,HER LIBRARY. informs us that her royal library was well ſtored with Greek, Italian, Latin, and French books. Among others, was a little one in her own handwriting, addreſſed to her father. She wrote a moſt exceeding fair hand, witneſs the beautiful little prayer book, ſold at the late dutcheſs of Portland's ſale for £. 106, written in five languages,HER LEARNING. two in Engliſh, and one in Greek, Latin, French, and Italian. At the beginning was a miniature of her lover the Duc d'Anjou, at the end one of herſelf, both by Hilliard: by the firſt ſhe artfully inſinuated that he was the primary object of her devotions. His mother, Catherine de Medicis, had been told by an aſtrologer, that all her ſons were to become monarchs. Anjou viſited England, and was received with every ſpecies of coquetry. On the firſt of January, 1581, in the tilt-yard of this palace,GREAT TOURNAMENT HELD IN HONOR OF THE DUC D'ANJOU. the moſt ſumptuous tournament ever celebrated, was held here in honor to the commiſſioners ſent from France to propoſe the marriage. A banqueting-houſe, moſt ſuperbly ornamented, was erected at the expence of above a thouſand ſeven hundred pounds. ‘The gallerie adjoining to her majeſties houſe at Whitehall, ſays the minute Holinſhed, ‘whereat hir perſon ſhould be placed, was called,ROMANTIC FOOLERIES. and not without cauſe, the caſtell or fortreſſe of perfect beautie! Her majeſty, at the time aged forty-eight, received every flattery that the charms of fifteen could clame. ‘This fortreſſe of perfect beautie was aſſailed by Deſire, and his four foſter children.’ The combatants on both ſides were perſons of the firſt [96] rank: a regular ſummons was firſt ſent to the poſſeſſor of the caſtell, with the delectable ſong of which this is part:

"Yeeld, yeeld, ô yeeld, you that this fort d [...]o hold,
"Which ſeated is in ſpotleſs honors feeld,
"Deſires great force, no forces can with hold;
"Then to Deſires deſire ô yeeld, ô yeeld."

Which ended, ‘two canons were fird off, one with ſweet powder, and the other with ſweet water: and after there were ſtore of prettie ſcaling ladders, and then the footmen threw floures, and ſuch fanſies againſt the wals, with all ſuch deviſes as might ſeeme fit ſhot for Deſire. In the end Deſire is repulſed, and forced to make ſubmiſſion; and thus ended an amorous foolery; which, if the reader is endowed with more patience than myſelf, he may find to fill near ſix great pages in the hiſtorian aforeſaid*.

NOBLE BAND OF KNIGHTS TILTERS.TWO principal heroes of the time were Sir Henry Lee, knight of the garter, the faithful devoted knight of this romantic princeſs,SIR HENRY LEE, THE QUEEN'S CHAMPION; and George earl of Cumberland. The firſt had made a vow to preſent himſelf armed at the Tilt-Yard, on the 27th of November annually, till he was diſabled by age. This gave riſe to the annual exerciſes of arms during the reign. The ſociety conſiſted of twenty-five of the moſt diſtinguiſhed perſonages about the court . Among them was Sir Chriſtopher Hatton, and even the lord chancellor,DISABLED BY AGE, RESIGNS IN GREAT FORM. I think Sir Thomas Bromley. Age overtook Sir Henry in the thirty-third year of her majeſty: when he retired with great ceremony, and recommended as his ſucceſſor the famous [97] hero, the earl of Cumberland, of whom I have given an ample account in another place*. Sir Henry, in the year 1590, inveſted his ſucceſſor with much form; and in the true ſpirit of chivalry and romance, in the preſence of the queen and the whole court, armed the new champion and mounted him upon his horſe. His own armour he offered at the foot of a crowned pillar, near her majeſty's feet: after which he clothed himſelf in a coat of black velvet pointed under the arm, and inſtead of a helmet, covered his head with a buttoned cap of the country faſhion. He died aged 80, in the year 1611, and was interred in the once elegant little church of Quarendon, near Ayleſbury. It is difficult to ſay whether that or the tomb is moſt ruinous. The figure of the knight appears in armour reclining, with one hand ſupporting his head, the other on his ſword; on his neck is a rich collar with the George pendant; his hair is ſhort and curled; his face bearded and whiſkered. He lies beneath a rich canopy, ſupported by ſuits of armour like antient trophies. The epitaph tell us,

The warres abroad with honnor he did paſſe,
In courtlie juſts his ſovereigns knight he was.
Sixe princes he did ſerve.

In a work which furniſhed ſo few architectural ſubjects for the engraver, I preſent the reader with the portrait of this venerable knight, taken from an original in poſſeſſion of the late Mrs. Sydney Lee, of Cheſter; who with great politeneſs obliged me with a reduced copy. He was ſprung from a Cheſhire family, the ſame which produced the Lees, earls of Lichfield. Sir Henry has by [98] him a large dog, to which he once was indebted for his life. By accident it was left one night in his bed-chamber, unknown to a faithleſs ſervant, who entered the room with an intent to rob and murder his maſter, but was ſeized on his entrance by the affectionate animal.

THE other print is one of Sir Henry's aſſociates in the gallant ſociety, Robert earl of Leiceſter, clad for the tilt-yard, in complete armour*.

OTHER AMUSEMENTS OF ELIZABETH. Rowland White has left us a curious account of the amuſements of this reign, and with what ſpirit her majeſty purſued her pleaſures as late as her ſixty-ſeventh year. ‘Her majeſty ſays ſhe is very well. This day ſhe appoints a Frenchman to doe feate [...] upon a rope in the conduit court. To-morrow ſhe hath commanded the beares, the bull, and the ape to be bayted in the tilt-yard. Upon Wedneſday ſhe will have ſolemne dawncing.’

[figure]

THE cieling of this noble room cannot be ſufficiently admired. It was painted by Rubens, who had three thouſand pounds for his work. The ſubject is the apotheoſis of James I; it forms nine compartments; one of the middle, repreſents our pacific monarch on his earthly throne, turning with horror from Mars, and other of the diſcordant deities, and as if it were giving himſelf up to the amiable goddeſs he always cultivated, to her attendants. Commerce and all the fine arts. This fine performance is painted on canvaſs, and is in fine preſervation; but, a few years ago, underwent a repair by Mr. Cipriani, who, as I am told, had two thouſand pounds for his trouble. Near the entrance is a buſt of the royal founder.

LITTLE did James think that he was erecting a pile from which his ſon was to ſtep from the throne to the ſcaffold. He had been brought, in the morning of his death, from St. James's acroſs the park, and from thence to Whitehall, where, aſcending the great ſtaircaſe, he paſſed through the long gallery to his bedchamber, the place allotted to him to paſs the little ſpace before he received the fatal blow. It is one of the leſſer rooms marked with the letter A, in the old plan of Whitehall. He was from thence conducted along the galleries and the banquetting-houſe, through the wall, in which a paſſage was broken, to his laſt [100] earthly ſtage. This paſſage ſtill remains, at the north end of the room, and is at preſent the door to a ſmall additional building of late date. At the time of the king's death, contiguous to the banquetting-houſe was a large building with a long roof, and a ſmall cupola riſing out of the middle*. The late dutcheſs of Portland did me the honor of ſhewing to me a rich pearl ſurmounted with a crown, which was taken out of the ear of the murdered monarch, after his head was ſtruck off.

THE banquetting-houſe has been, many years paſt, converted into a chapel. George I. appointed a ſalary of £. 30 a year to he paid to certain ſelect preachers, to preach here every Sunday.

CABINET OF CHARLES I.THE collection of paintings formed by this moſt accompliſhed prince, was eſteemed the firſt in Europe. They were kept in a room called the Cabinet-room, in this palace; which was built by order of prince Henry, from a deſign of Inigo Jones. I have a view of it, and ſome of the antient parts of Whitehall which ſtood next to St. James's park. This building is diſtinguiſhed by the Venetian window. It ſtood on the fite of the duke of York's houſe. Vanderdort was appointed keeper, with a ſalary of £. 50 a year. On the death of Henry it was confirmed to him by Charles, at the reduced ſalary of forty. The view is taken from a drawing by Levines, an artiſt who had worked under Rembrandt. This I owe to the liberality of Doctor Combes.

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IN 1680 a complete plan of this great palace was taken by John Fiſher, and engraven by Vertue, in 1747.PLAN OF WHITEHALL. It appears that extended along the river, and in front along the preſent Parlement and Whitehall ſtreet, as far as Scotland Yard; and on the other ſide of thoſe ſtreets to the turning into Spring Garden, beyond the Admiralty, looking into St. James's Park. The merry king, his queen, the royal brother, prince Rupert, the duke of Monmouth, and all the great officers, and all the courtly train, had their lodgings within theſe walls; and all the royal family had their different offices, ſuch as kitchens, cellars, pantries, ſpiceries, cyder-houſe, bake-houſe, wood-yards and coal-yards, and ſlaughter-houſe. We ſee among the fair attendants of queen Catherine, many names which make a great figure in Grammont, and other chronicles of the time: ſuch as the counteſs of Caſtlemaine, Mrs. Kirk, and Mrs. Killegrew. As to Nell Gwynne, NELL GWYNNE. not having the honor to be on the good queen's eſtabliſhment, ſhe was obliged to keep her diſtance, at her houſe in what was then called Pall-mall. It is the firſt good one on the left hand of St. James's Square, as we enter from Pall-mall. The back room on the ground floor was (within memory) entirely of looking glaſs; as was ſaid to have been the cieling. Over the chimney was her picture; and that of her ſiſter was in a third room. At the period I mention, this houſe was the property of Thomas Brand, eſq of the Hoo, in Hertſordſhire.

THE other royal favorites had the ſanction of offices, ſuch as maids of honor and the like, which, in all ages, like charity, were ſure to cover a multitude of ſins.

[101]
[...]

[102]I MUST not omit, that from the palace into the Thames were two ſtairs, one public, the other the privy ſtairs for the uſe of majeſty alone; the firſt is ſtill in uſe, the other is made up in the old wall adjacent to the earl of Fife's, but the arch of the portal remains entire. Henry, and his daughter Elizabeth, made all their parties by water or on horſeback; or now and then the laſt went mounted on a litter, carried on men's ſhoulders. Coaches had been introduced into England by Henry Fitzalan earl of Arundel, one of her admirers; but the ſpirited princeſs ſeems to have diſdained the uſe. She rode in a dreſs of form and magnificence equal to what ſhe appeared in at the drawing-room; but never put on breeches or boots, like the late Czarina; nor yet the equivocal dreſs of the ladies of the preſent age.

NO one is unacquainted with the noble and commodious improvements which ſucceeded. The ſpace occupied by the former palace, moſt part of Privy Garden, is covered with houſes of nobility or gentry, commanding moſt beautiful views of the river. Among the firſt (on the ſite of the ſmall-beer cellar, of which a view is preſerved in No 4. of Hollar's prints of Whitehall) is the houſe of the earl of Fife. EARL OF FIFE'S. From his judicious embankment, is a matchleſs view of its kind, of the two bridges with the magnificent expanſe of water, Somerſet-houſe, St. Paul's, and multitudes of other objects leſs magnificent, but which ſerve to complete the beautiful ſcene.

Figure 2. OLD HORSE GUARDS

A HEAD of Charles I. when prince of Wales, done in Spain, when he was there in 1625, on his romantic expedition to court the Infanta. It is ſuppoſed to have been the work of Velaſco.

A PORTRAIT of William earl of Pembroke, lord high chamberlain in the beginning of the reign of Charles I; a ſmall full length in black, with his white rod in one hand, his hat in the other, ſtanding in a room looking into a garden. Such is the merit of this piece, that, notwithſtanding it is ſuppoſed to have been the performance of Jameſon, the Scotch Vandyck; yet it has been often attributed to that great Flemiſh painter *.

IN the vacant part of Privy Garden is ſtill to be ſeen a noble ſtatue in braſs of our abdicated monarch, executed by Grinling Gibbons, the year before he deſerted his throne.

THE horſe-guards had their ſtables in the place they occupy at this time: but the preſent elegant building was erected in the reign of his late majeſty, after a deſign, I think, by Vardy. I have given a print of the Horſe-guards as they were in the time of Charles II. In it is the merry monarch and his dogs; and in the back view, the banquetting-houſe, one of the gates, the preſent treaſury in its antient ſtate, and the top of the cockpit.

THE Admiralty-office ſtood originally in Duke-ſtreet Weſtminſter; but in the reign of king William was removed to the preſent [104] ſpot, to the houſe then called Wallingford-houſe, I believe from its having been inhabited by the Knollys's, viſcounts Wallingford. From the roof, the pious Uſher, archbiſhop of Armagh, then living here with the counteſs of Peterborough, was prevaled on to take the laſt ſight of his beloved maſter Charles I. when brought on the ſcaffold before Whitehall. He ſunk at the horror of the ſight, and was carried in a ſwoon to his apartment.

THE preſent Admiralty-office was rebuilt in the late reign: it is a clumſy pile, but properly veiled from the ſtreet by Mr. Adams's handſome ſkreen *

PALACE FOR KINGS OF SCOTLAND.A LITTLE farther to the north ſtood, in the place now occupied by Scotland-yard, a magnificent palace built for the reception of the Scottiſh monarchs, whenever they viſited this capital. It was originally given by king Edgar to king Ken, for the humiliating purpoſe of his making to this place an annual journey, for the purpoſe of doing homage for the kingdom of Scotland, and in after times for Cumberland and Huntingdon, and other fiefs of the crown. Here Margaret, widow of James V. of Scotland, and ſiſter to Henry VIII. reſided for a conſiderable time after the death of her huſband: and was entertained with great magnificence by her royal brother, as ſoon as he was reconciled to her ſecond marriage with the earl of Angus.

CHARING-CROSS.A LITTLE above ſtood one of the celebrated memorials of the affection of Edward I. for his beloved Elianor, being the croſs erected on the laſt ſpot on which the body reſted in the way to the abby, the place of ſepulture. This and all the others were built after the deſigns of Cavalini. This was deſtroyed by the religious [105] fury of the reformers. From a drawing communicated to me by Doctor Combes, it appears to have been of an octagonal form, and in an upper ſtage ornamented with eight figures: but the gothic parts far from being rich.

THE croſs was in the next century replaced by a moſt beautiful and animated equeſtrian ſtatue in braſs,FINE STATUE OF CHARLES I. of Charles I. caſt in 1633, by Le Soeur. It was not erected till the year 1678, when the parlement had ordered it to be ſold and broke to pieces: but John River, the brazier who purchaſed it, having more taſte or more loyalty than his maſters, buried it unmutilated, and ſhewed to them ſome broken pieces of braſs in token of his obedience. M. d' Archenholz gives a diverting anecdote of this brazier: that he caſt a vaſt number of handles of knives and forks in braſs, which he ſold as made of the broken ſtatue. They were bought with great eagerneſs; by the loyaliſts, from affection to their monarch; by the rebels, as a mark of triumph over the murdered ſovereign *.

ON the ſite of part of Northumberland-houſe, ST. MARY ROUNCEVAL. ſtood the chapel of St. Mary Rounceval, a cell to the priory of Rouncevaux, in Navarre. It was founded by William Marſhal earl of Pembroke, in the time of Henry III. It was ſuppreſſed by Henry V. among the alien priories, but rebuilt by Edward IV. who fixed a fraternity in it . In the reign of Edward VI, a grant was made of the ſite to Sir Thomas Cawarden .

NOT far from hence, oppoſite to Charing-Croſs, was an hermitage, [106] with a chapel dedicated to St. Catherine *. This, in 1262, belonged to the ſee of Llandaff; for I find in that year that William de Radnor, then biſhop, had leave from the king to lodge in the cloiſter of his hermitage at Charing, whenever he came to London .

ON the north ſide of Charing-Croſs ſtand the royal ſtables, called, from the original uſe of the buildings on their ſite, the Mews; having been uſed for keeping the king's falcons, at leſt from the time of Richard II. In that reign the accompliſhed Sir Simon Burley, knight of the garter, was keeper of the king's falcons at the Meuſe, near Charing-Croſs. This office was by Charles II. granted to his ſon by Nell Gwyn, Charles duke of St. Albans, and the heirs male of his body. In the reign of Henry VIII. the king's horſes were kept here. In 1534 an accident by fire deſtroyed the building, with a great quantity of hay, and ſeveral great horſes. It was rebuilt in the reigns of Edward VI. and queen Mary. In the year 1732 the preſent handſome edifice aroſe.

ST. JAMES'S PALACE.ST. JAMES's palace was originally a hoſpital, founded and dedicated to St. James, by ſome pious citizens, before the Conqueſt, for fourteen leprous females: and eight brethren were added afterwards, to perform divine ſervice. On the quarrel between the great earl of Warwick and lord Cromwel, about the cauſe of the firſt battle of St. Albans; lord Cromwel, fearing the rage of that violent peer, was at his own deſire lodged here, by way of ſecurity, by John Talbot earl of Shrewſbury, at that time lord treaſurer of England . It was ſurrendered to Henry VIII. in [107] 1531, who ſounded on its ſite the preſent palace, which Stowe calls a goodly manor. His majeſty alſo incloſed the park, which was ſubſervient to the amuſement of this and the palace of Whitehall. Charles II. was particularly fond of it, planted the avenues, made the canal, and the aviary, adjacent to the Bird-cage walk, which took its name from the cages which were hung in the trees. Charles, ſays Cibber, was often ſeen here, amidſt crowds of ſpectators, feeding his ducks, and playing with his dogs *, and paſſing his idle moments in affability even to the meaneſt of his ſubjects, which made him to be adored by the common people; ſo faſcinating in the great are the habits of condeſcenſion!

DUCK ISLAND was erected into a government, and had a ſalary annexed to the office, in favor of M. St. Evremond, who was the firſt and perhaps the laſt governor : and the iſland itſelf is loſt in the late improvements.

IT does not appear that the palace was inhabited by any of our monarchs till after the fire at Whitehall. James I. preſented it to his accompliſhed ſon Henry, who reſided here till his lamented death in 1612. Charles I. was brought here from Windſor, on January 19th , by the power of the army, which had determined on his death; his apartment was haſtily furniſhed by his ſervant Mr. Kinnerſley, of the wardrobe . Some of the eleven days which he was permitted to live, were ſpent in Weſtminſter-hall, and of the nights in the houſe of Sir Robert Cotton, adjacent to his place of trial. On the 27th he was carried back to St. James's, where he paſſed his three laſt days in exemplary piety. On the 30th he [108] was brought to the place of execution; and walked, unmoved at every inſult, with a firm and quick pace, ſupported by the moſt lively ſentiments of religion.

HIS ſon, the bigoted James, ſent to the prince of Orange, when he had approached in force near to the capital, a moſt neceſſitated invitation to take his lodgings at this palace. The prince accepted it: but at the ſame time hinted to the frightened prince that he muſt leave Whitehall. It was cuſtomary to mount guard at both the palaces. The old hero lord Craven was on duty at the time when the Dutch guards were marching through the park to relieve, by order of their maſter. From a point of honor he had determined not to quit his ſtation, and was preparing to maintain his poſt; but, receiving the command of his ſovereign, he reluctantly withdrew his party and marched away with ſullen dignity *.

DURING the reign of king William, St. James's was fitted up for the reſidence of the princeſs Anne (afterwards queen) and her ſpouſe prince George of Denmark. From that time to the preſent it has been regularly the court of our monarchs.

JAMES, the ſon of James II. who ſo long made pretenſions to the Britiſh throne, was born in the room now called the old bed-chamber; at preſent the anti-chamber to the levee room. The bed ſtood cloſe to the door of a back-ſtairs, which deſcended to an inner court. It certainly was very convenient to carry on any ſecret deſign; and might favor the ſilly warming-pan ſtory, was not the bed ſurrounded by twenty of the privy-council, four other men of rank, twenty ladies, beſides pages and other attendants. [109] James, with imprudent pride, neglected to diſprove the tale: it was adopted by party, and firmly believed by its zealots. But, as James proved falſe to his high truſt, and his ſon ſhewed every ſymptom of following his example, there was certainly no ſuch pretence wanting for excluding a family inimical to the intereſts of the GREAT WHOLE.

UNCREDITABLE as the outſide of St. James's palace may look, it is ſaid to be the moſt commodious for regal parade of any in Europe. Every one knows that the furniture of this palace is unbecoming the place.PORTRAITE. Yet in a ramble I once made through the apartments, I ſaw ſeveral portraits of perſonages remarkable in their day. Among others (in one of the rooms behind the levee rooms) is a ſmall full-length of Henry prince of Wales, ſon of James I. He is dreſſed in green, ſtanding over a dead ſtag, and ſheathing a ſword. A youth, the accompliſhed lord Harrington, of Exton, is kneeling before him: each of them have hunting horns, and behind the prince is a horſe, and on the bough of a tree are the arms of England, and behind the young lord, another coat of arms, perhaps his own. Another fine ſmall piece, of Arthur, elder brother to Henry VIII. painted very young, with a bonnet on his head. Henry ſtands by him, and his ſiſter Margaret, of infant ages. This picture is by Mabuſe, who viſited England in the reign of their father.

HENRY VII. and VIII. full-lengths, and each of them with a queen before an altar. The fortunate Jane Seymour (who died in her bed) is the conſort of the ſon, here repreſented. This is a copy from Holbein, in ſmall, by Van Lemput [...]n 1667, taken by order of Charles II. The original was painted on the wall in the privy chamber of Whitehall, and deſtroyed in the fire of 1697.

[110]Two half-lengths, by Lely, of the dutcheſs of York, and her ſiſter.

A CHILD in the robes of the garter: perhaps the youngeſt knight known. He was the ſecond ſon of James II. while duke of York, by Anne Hyde his dutcheſs. On December 3d, 1666, he was elected knight of the garter, at the age of three years and five months. The ſovereign put the George round his neck; and prince Rupert, the garter round his little leg. Death, in the following year, prevented his inſtallation *.

THE diminutive manhood of the dwarf Geoffry Hudſon, is to be ſeen in another picture. He appears leſs by being placed walking under ſome very tall trees.

IN the lords old waiting-room is Henry Darnley, in black, tall and genteel. His hand is reſting on his brother Charles Stuart, earl of Lenox, dreſſed in a black gown.

IN another room is Charles II. of Spain, at the age of four, in black, with a ſceptre in his hand, ſtrutting and playing the monarch. He was inaugurated in 1665. His reign was unhappy. Spain at no period was in ſo low, ſo diſtreſsful a condition. His dominions were parcelled out in his life-time: but he diſappointed the allies, and, after ſome ſtruggle, the deſignation of his will in favor of the houſe of Bourbon took place.

HERE is to be ſeen the famous picture by Mabuſe, of Adam and Eve. Mr. Evelyn juſtly remarks the abſurdity of painting them with navels, and a fountain with rich imagery amidſt the beauteous wilds of paradiſe. Raphael, and Michael Angelo, made [111] the ſame miſtake of the navel, on which the learned Sir Thomas Brown * waſtes a long page and a half to diſprove the poſſibility.

IN the queen's library (built by queen Caroline, QUEEN'S LIBRARY. and ornamented by Kent) now a lumber-room, I ſaw a beautiful view from Greenwich park, with Charles I. his queen, and a number of courtiers, walking. And two others, of the ſame prince and his queen dining in public. And another of the elector palatine and his ſpouſe at public table; with a carver, looking moſt ridiculous, a monkey having in that moment reared from the board and ſeized on his beard. Poſſibly this feaſt was at Guildhall, where he was moſt nobly entertained by the hoſpitable city, in 1612, when he made the match with the daughter of our monarch, which ended ſo unhappily for both parties.

TO the eaſt of St. James's palace, in the reign of queen Anne, MARLBOROUGH-HOUSE. was built Marlborough-houſe, at the expence of the public. It appears by one of Kip's views of St. James's, publiſhed before the exiſtence of this houſe, that it was built in part of the royal gardens, granted for that purpoſe by her majeſty. The preſent duke added an upper ſtory, and improved the ground floor, which originally wanted the great room. This national compliment coſt not leſs than forty thouſand pounds.

IN Pall-mall the duke Schomberg had his houſe.PALL-MALL. It was in my time poſſeſſed by Aſtley the painter, who divided it into three, and moſt whimſically fitted up the center for his own uſe.

TO take a review of the ſpace between this palace and Charing-Croſs, as it was about the year 1560, it will appear a tract of [112] fields; there were no houſes, excepting three or four on the eaſt ſide of the preſent Pall-mall: and a little farther, on the oppoſite ſide, a ſmall church, the name of which I cannot diſcover.

BY the year 1572, Cockſpur-ſtreet filled up the ſpace between thoſe houſes and Charing-Croſs. Pall-mall was alſo laid out as a walk, or a place for the exerciſe of the Mall, a game long ſince diſuſed. The north ſide was alſo planted with a row of trees. On the other ſide was the wall of St. James's park. Charles II. removed it to its preſent place, planted the park, and made all thoſe improvements, which we now ſee. It was Le Notre, the famous French gardener, the director of taſte under Louis XIV. who ordered the diſpoſition of the trees. Of late, the French have endeavoured to borrow taſte from us. In the days of Charles, HAYMARKET. HEDGE-LANE. the Haymarket, and Hedge-lane, had names; but they were literally lanes, bounded by hedges; and all beyond, to the north, eaſt, and weſt, was entirely country. In the fine plan of London, publiſhed by Faithorn, in 1658, no traces of houſes are to be met with in the former, any more than a ſingle one, named the Gaming-houſe, at the end next to Piccadilly. Windmill-ſtreet conſiſted of disjoined houſes; and a windmill, ſtanding in a field on the weſt ſide, proves from what its name was derived. All the ſpace occupied by the ſtreets radiating from the Seven Dials, was at that period open ground.

LEICESTER-HOUSE. Leiceſter-fields was alſo unbuilt; but the houſe of that name is found in the ſame plan, and on the ſite of the preſent. It was founded by one of the Sydnies earls of Leiceſter. It was for a ſhort time the reſidence of Elizabeth, daughter of James I. the titular queen of Bohemia, who, on February 13th, 1661, here [113] ended her unfortunate life *. It has been tenanted for a great number of years. It was ſucceſſively the pouting-place of princes. The late king, when prince of Wales, after he had quarrelled with his father, lived here ſeveral years. His ſon Frederick followed his example, ſucceeded him in his houſe, and in it finiſhed his days. No one is ignorant of the magnificent and inſtructive muſeum exhibited in this houſe by the late Sir ASHTON LEVER. It was the moſt aſtoniſhing collection of the ſubject of natural hiſtory ever collected, in ſo ſhort a ſpace, by any individual. To the diſgrace of our kingdom, after the firſt burſt of wonder was over, it became neglected: and when it was offered to the public, by the chance of a guinea lottery, only eight thouſand, out of thirty-ſix thouſand, tickets were ſold. Finally, the capricious goddeſs frowned on the ſpirited poſſeſſor of ſuch a number of tickets, and transferred the treaſure to the poſſeſſor of only two, Mr. Parkinſon; who, by his ſpirited attention to, and elegant diſpoſition of the Muſeum, well merited the favor.

BEHIND Leiceſter-houſe ſtood, in 1658, the Military-yard,THE MILITARY YARD. founded by Henry prince of Wales, the ſpirited ſon of our peaceful James. M. Foubert afterwards kept here his academy for riding and other gentleman-like exerciſes, in the reign of Charles II. It is to this day a noted riding-ſchool.

A LITTLE beyond ſtood Gerard-houſe, GERARD-HOUSE. the habitation of the gallant Gerard earl of Macclesfield . It is loſt in the ſtreet of the ſame name. The profligate lord Mohun lived in this ſtreet, and was brought there after he was killed in the duel with the duke [114] of Hamilton. I have heard that his good lady was vaſtly diſpleaſed at the bloody corſe being flung upon the beſt bed.

COVENTRY-HOUSE ſtood near the end of the Haymarket, and gave name to Coventry-ſtreet. It was the reſidence of lord keeper Coventry; and Henry Coventry, ſecretary of ſtate, died here in 1686. This houſe is ſaid to be on the ſite of one called, in the old plans of London, the Gaming-houſe.

PICCADILLY.LORD Clarendon mentions a houſe of this name, in the following words. ‘Mr. Hyde (ſays he, ſpeaking of himſelf) going to a houſe called Piccadilly, which was a fair houſe for entertainment, and gaming, with handſome gravel-walks with ſhade, and where were an upper and lower bowling-green, whither very many of the nobility and gentry of the beſt quality reſorted for exerciſe and converſation *.’

AT the upper end of the Haymarket, ſtood Piccadilla-hall, where Piccadillas or Turn-overs were ſold, which gave name to that vaſt ſtreet, called from that circumſtance Piccadilly. This ſtreet was completed in 1642, as far as the preſent Berkeley-ſtreet. The firſt good houſe which was built in it was Burlington-houſe; the noble founder, father to the late earl of Burlington, ſaid he placed it there ‘becauſe he was certain no one would build beyond him.’ Nobody is ignorant of the vaſt town that, ſince that period, has extended itſelf beyond this palace. After this roſe Clarges-houſe, and two others adjacent, inhabited, ſays Strype, by lord Sherbourne and the counteſs of Denby.

THE Peſt-houſe-fields were ſurrounded with buildings before the year 1700, but remained a dirty waſte till of late years, when [115] Carnaby-market occupied much of the weſt part. Golden-ſquare, of dirty acceſs, was built after the Revolution, or before 1700. In theſe fields had been the lazareto, during the period of the dreadful plague of the year 1665. It was built by that true hero lord Craven, who ſtayed in London during the whole time; and braved the fury of the peſtilence, with the ſame coolneſs as he fought the battles of his beloved miſtreſs Elizabeth, titular queen of Bohemia; or mounted the tremendous breach at Creutznach. He was the intrepid ſoldier, the gallant lover, the genuine patriot.

IN 1700 Bond-ſtreet was built no farther than the weſt end of Clifford-ſtreet. New Bond-ſtreet was at that time an open field, called Conduit Mead, from one of the conduits which ſupplied this part of the town with water: and Conduit-ſtreet received its name for the ſame reaſon.

GEORGE-ſtreet, Hanover-ſquare, and its church, roſe about the ſame time. The church was built by John James, ST. GEORGE's, HANOVER-SQUARE. and finiſhed in 1724. Its portico would be thought handſome had you ſpace to admire it. It now looks Brobdignagian. This was one of the fifty new churches, and the pariſh ſtolen out of that of St. Martin in the Fields. It is the laſt pariſh in this part of Weſtminſter, excepting the diſtant Mary-bonne. Every part beſides was open ground, covered with dunghills, and all ſorts of obſcenity. May Fair was kept about the ſpot now covered with May Fair chapel,MAY FAIR. and ſeveral fine ſtreets. The fair was attended with ſuch diſorders, riots, thefts, and even murders, that, in 1708, it was preſented by the magiſtrates. It revived again, and I remember the laſt celebrations: the place was covered with booths, temporary theatres, and every enticement to low pleaſure.

[116]AT the time of Sir Thomas Wiat's inſurrection, in February, 1554, part of the army marched to make their attack on London over this tract, then an open country as far as Charing-Croſs. On the ſpot called Hay-hill, near the preſent Berkeley-ſquare, there was a ſkirmiſh between a party of the inſurgents and another of the royal army, in which the former were repulſed. After the execution of Sir Thomas, his head (on that account) was ſet up on a gallows, at that place *, and his parboiled quarters in different parts of the neighborhood of the capital. Three of the inſurgents were alſo hung in chains near the head of their leader.

THIS extenſive tract, at preſent a vaſt ſeat of the moſt elegant population, is far from being deſtitute of places of devotion: but chapels aroſe inſtead of churches, ſubordinate to their reſpective rectors. In this enlightened age it was quickly diſcovered that "Godlineſs was profitable to many." The projector, the architect, the maſon, the carpenter, and the plaſterer united their powers. A chapel was erected, well-pewed, well-warmed, dedicated, and conſecrated. A captivating preacher is provided, the pews are filled, and the good undertakers amply repayed by the pious tenantry.

HANOVER AND CAVENDISH SQUARES.IN 1716, Hanover-ſquare, and Cavendiſh-ſquare, were unbuilt: but their names appear in the plans of London of 1720. Oxford-ſtreet, from Princes-ſtreet eaſtward as far as High-ſtreet St. Giles's, was almoſt unbuilt on the north ſide. I remember there a deep hollow road, and full of ſloughs: there was here and there a ragged houſe, the lurking-place of cut-throats: inſomuch that I never was taken that way by night, in my hackney-coach, to a [117] worthy uncle's, who gave me lodgings at his houſe in George-ſtreet, but I went in dread the whole way. The ſouth ſide was built as far as Swallow-ſtreet. SOHO-SQUARE was begun in the time of Charles II. The duke of Monmouth lived in the center houſe, facing the ſtatue. Originally the ſquare was called, in honor of him, Monmouth-ſquare; and afterwards changed to that of King-ſquare. I have a tradition, that, on his [...]ath, the admirers of that unfortunate man changed it to Soho, being the word of the day at the field of Sedgemoor. The houſe was purchaſed by the late lord Bateman, and let by the preſent lord to the Comte de Guerchy, the French ambaſſador. After which it was leaſed on building leaſes. The name of the unfortunate duke is ſtill preſerved in Monmouth-ſtreet.

AFTER this digreſſion, let me return into Piccadilly. BERKELEY-HOUSE.—Before the date of Burlington-houſe, was built a fine manſion, belonging to the Berkelies, lords, and afterwards earls Berkeley. It ſtood between the ſouth end of Berkeley-ſquare and Piccadilly, and gave name to the ſquare and an adjacent ſtreet. The miſery and diſgrace which the profligacy of one of the daughters brought on the houſe, by an intrigue with her brother-in-law, lord Grey, (afterwards engaged in the Monmouth rebellion) is too laſtingly recorded in our State Trials, ever to be buried in oblivion.

ON the ſite of this houſe, fronting Piccadilly, DEVONSHIRE-HOUSE. ſtands Devonſhire-houſe; long after the year 1700 it was the laſt houſe in this ſtreet, at that time the portion of Piccadilly. The old houſe, which was built by the firſt duke, was burnt in the reign of George II. It was rebuilt by the third duke, after a deſign by Kent. Here is an excellent library, and a very fine collection of medals. I once ſaw the houſe, by the favor of my friend the Reverend Doctor [118] Lort, at that time librarian; to whoſe liberal communications I have been invariably indebted. The portraits are ſo numerous in this noble houſe, that I muſt leave the complete liſt to thoſe who have more opportunities of forming it than I had. Among others, is a fine portrait of Marc Antonio de Dominis, the vain deſultory archbiſhop of Spalato, who, abjuring the Roman catholic religion, came over to England, and was appointed maſter of the Savoy. He had not been here long, but he publicly retracted all he had wrote againſt the church of Rome. James ordered him to depart the kingdom in three days. He had the folly to truſt himſelf at Rome; where, his ſincerity being doubted, he was flung into priſon, where he ended his days. He is painted by Tintoret, repreſented in his ſtudy, ſitting, in black, and with a ſquare cap.

ARTHUR Goodwin, the friend of Mr. Hampden, and, like him, active in the cauſe of liberty; a fine full length, by Vandyck, 1639: in long hair; his dreſs a yellow cloak and jacket, and white boots.

HIS daughter Jane, ſecond wife of Philip lord Wharton; in black, enriched with chains of gold.

A HEAD of the favorite character of lord Clarendon, the virtuous and accompliſhed lord Falkland.

SIR Thomas Brown, author of the Religio Medici, his lady, and four daughters, by Dobſon. Sir Thomas and his lady are in black; one child is on her lap, two ſtand before him, on whom he looks with great affection. When I thought of a paſſage in his famous book, I could but ſmile at the number of children. His ſentiments on the conſequence of matrimony are moſt ſingular. I dare not quote the paſſage: but muſt refer the reader to the ſtrangeneſs of [119] his ideas on the ſubject *. Let it be remembered he was a bachelor when he wrote.

THE delightful portrait of the Jewiſh Rabbi, by Rembrandt.

A HEAD of Titian, by himſelf. And another of the painter Carlo Cignani, alſo by himſelf.

THE unfeeling Philip II. by Titian; a full-length, in armour, enriched with gold. The only time he ever buckled it on, was when he ſhewed himſelf to his troops going on the aſſault of St. Quintin. He merited to be ſtripped of the honorable dreſs: he never appeared in the field; and carried on his wars like an aſſaſſin.

I WILL cloſe this very imperfect liſt, with the famous counteſs of Deſmond; a popular ſubject with the painters: and refer the reader to the account I have given of her in my viſits to that worthy peer the late earl of Kinnoul, in both my tours in Scotland.

THE collection of pictures by the great Italian maſters, is by far the fineſt private collection now in England.

THE houſe of that monſter of treachery, that profligate miniſter the earl of Sunderland, who, by his deſtructive advice, premeditatedly brought ruin on his unſuſpecting maſter James II. ſtood on or near the ſite of the preſent Melbourne-houſe. At the very time that he ſold him to the prince of Orange, he encouraged his majeſty in every ſtep which was certain of involving him and his family in utter ruin.

PICCADILLY is continued near half a mile farther to the weſt: the north ſide only conſiſts of houſes, moſt of them mean buildings; but it finiſhes handſomely with the magnificent new houſe [120] of lord Bathurſt, at Hyde-park corner. On the ſouth ſide is the Green-park, bounded by a wall; but in many places are rows of benevolent railings, which afford a moſt elegant view of that park, the trees in that of St. James's, the majeſtic venerable abby ſoaring far above, and the more remote rural view of the Surry hills. Beyond the Turnpike-houſe, ſtood the houſe of a noble, celebrated by Mr. Pope for his paſſion for dancing; who demanded an audience from queen Anne, after the death of George prince of Denmark, to adviſe her majeſty to diſpel her grief by applying to that exerciſe: ‘The ſober Laneſh [...]row dancing in the gout.’ I have heard it ſaid, that this was only his country-houſe; which might poſſibly have been, at that time.

ST. GEORGE'S HOSPITAL.IN 1733 aroſe on its ſite that great charity St. George's hoſpital, founded by the voluntary contributions of the inhabitants of Weſtminſter. The ſubſcriptions, in 1786, were £. 2,239. 5 s.; but the benevolence of the governors, or increaſe of accidents, cauſed an increaſe of expence, which threatened moſt ſerious conſequences, till the houſe was happily relieved by the bounty received from the third of the profits ariſing from the muſical entertainments of the abby.—This hoſpital has diſcharged from it, ſince it was opened, on the firſt of the year 1733, not fewer than a hundred and ſixty-four thouſand ſeven hundred and forty-ſix patients.

HYDE-PARK was in the late century, and the early part of the preſent, celebrated, by all our dramatical poets, for its large ſpace railed off in form of a circle,THE RING. round which the Beau-monde drove in their carriages, and in their rotation; exchanging as they paſſed ſmiles and nods, compliments, or ſmart repartees.

[121]OPPOSITE to this hoſpital at Hyde-park Corner, ſtood a large fort with four baſtions, which formed one of the many flung up in the year 1642. It is incredible with what ſpeed the citizens flung a rampart of earth all round the city and ſuburbs of London, and again round Southwark and Lambeth, ſtrengthened with batteries and redoubts at proper intervals. This was occaſioned by an alarm of an attack from the royal army. Men, women, and children aſſiſted by thouſands. The active part which the fair ſex took in the work is admirably deſcribed by the inimitable author of Hudibras; who, ſays he,

March'd rank and file with drum and enſign,
T' entrench the city for defence in:
Rais'd rampiers with their own ſoft hands,
To put the enemy to ſtands;
From ladies down to oyſter-wenches,
Labour'd like pioneers in trenches,
Fal'n to their pick-axes and tools,
And help'd the men to dig like moles.
Have not the handmaids of the city
Chos'n of their members a committee,
For raiſing of a common purſe,
Out of their wages to raiſe horſe?
And do they not as Triers fit,
To judge what officers are fit?

THERE were a few more great houſes,BERKSHIRE, OR CLEVELAND-HOUSE. not remote from St. James's palace, which merit mention. Berkſhire-houſe, belonging to the Howards, earls of Berkſhire, ſtood very near the royal reſidence. It was afterwards purchaſed, and preſented by Charles II. to that beautiful fury Barbara dutcheſs of Cleveland, and its honorable name changed into that of her diſhonored title. It [122] was then of great extent. She ſold part, which was built into various houſes. She built a large one for herſelf, which ſtill remains, and may be diſtinguiſhed by the row of round windows in the upper ſtory.

TART-HALL.TART-HALL ſtood near the preſent Buckingham-gate: it was built in 1638, by Nicholas Stone, for Alathea counteſs of Arundel, wife to Thomas earl of Arundel. After the death of the counteſs it became the property of her ſecond ſon, the unfortunate William lord Stafford, a moſt gentle and amiable character, who fell an innocent victim to the deteſtable violence of party, and the perjured ſuborned evidence of the ever infamous Oates, Dugdale, and Tuberville. Good men, who had no ſhare in that part, hurried away by intemperate paſſion, were at the period diſgraced by their rage againſt this inoffenſive peer. Even the virtuous lord Ruſſel committed in this cauſe the ſingle opprobrium of his life: when the unhappy lord was condemned, RUSSEL could wiſh to deny the king the amiable prerogative of taking away the cruel, the diſgraceful part of the penalty. Within three years, this excellent man himſelf taſted the bitter cup; but cleared, by royal indulgence, from the aggravating dregs, with which he wiſhed to agonize the dying moments of the devoted Stafford.

HERE were kept the poor remains of the Arundelian collection. They were buried during the madneſs of the popiſh plot. The mob would have miſtaken the ſtatues for popiſh ſaints. They were ſold in the year 1720; and the houſe ſoon after was pulled, down. Mr. Walpole; who ſaw the houſe at the time of the ſecond ſale, informed me that it was very large, and had a very venerable appearance.

ARLINGTON-HOUSE.HENRY BENNET earl of Arlington, one of the famous Cabal, [123] had a houſe near the ſite of the preſent Buckingham-houſe, which went by his name. It was afterwards purchaſed by John Sheffield duke of Buckingham, who, after obtaining an additional grant of land from the crown, rebuilt it, in a magnificent manner, in 1703.BUCKINGHAM-HOUSE. He deſcribes it moſt minutely, as well as his manner of living there, in a letter to the duke of Shrewſbury *. He has omitted his conſtant viſits to the noted gaming-houſe at Marybone, the place of aſſemblage of all the infamous ſharpers of the time. His grace always gave them a dinner at the concluſion of the ſeaſon, and his parting toaſt was, May as many of us as remain unhanged next ſpring, meet here again. I remember the facetious Quin telling this ſtory at Bath, within the hearing of the late lord Cheſterfield, when his lordſhip was ſurrounded by a crowd of worthies of the ſame ſtamp with the above. Lady Mary Wortley alludes to the amuſement in this time; ‘Some dukes at Marybone bowl time away.’ Antiently there was a park at Marybone: for I find that in queen Elizabeth's, time, the Ruſſian ambaſſadors were entertained with the amuſement of hunting within its pale. The duke died in 1720. His dutcheſs, daughter to James II. by Catherine Sedley, lived here till her death. She was ſucceeded by the duke's natural ſon, Charles Herbert Sheffield, on whom his grace had entailed it after the death of the young duke, who died a minor. It was purchaſed from Sir Charles by his preſent majeſty; is the retreat of our good king and queen; and dignified with the title of the QUEEN'S HOUSE.

The virtuous chancellor the earl of Clarendon, CLARENDON-HOUSE. had a houſe [124] facing the upper end of St. James's-ſtreet, on the ſite of the preſent Graften-ſtreet. It was built by himſelf, with the ſtones intended for the rebuilding of St. Paul's. He purchaſed the materials; but a nation ſoured with an unſucceſsful war, with fire, and with peſtilence, imputed every thing as a crime to this great and envied character: his enemies called it Dunkirk-houſe, calumniating him with having built it with the money ariſing from the ſale of that town, which had juſt before been given up to the French, for a large ſum, by his maſter. Clarendon was ſo ſenſible of his vanity, of his imprudence, in building ſo large a houſe, and of the envy it drew upon him, that he thinks fit to apologize for that act of his; which he declares ſo far exceeded the propoſed expence, as to add greatly to the embarraſſment of his affairs *. It coſt fifty thouſand pounds, and three hundred men were employed in the building. It was purchaſed from his lordſhip by George M [...]k duke of Albemarle, and afterwards by another nobleman, inferior indeed in abilities, but not inferior in virtues. In 1670,ATTACK ON THE DUKE OF ORMOND BY BLOOD. James duke of Ormond, in his way to Clarendon-houſe, where his grace at that time lived, was dragged out of his coach by the infamous Blood, and his aſſociates, who intended to hang his grace at Tyburn, in revenge for juſtice done, under his adminiſtration in Ireland, on ſome of their companions. This refinement in revenge ſaved the duke's life: he had leiſure to diſengage himſelf from the villain on horſeback, to whom he was tied; by which time he was diſcovered by his affrighted domeſtics, and reſcued from death. Blood was ſoon after taken in the attempt to ſteal the [125] crown. The court had uſe for ſo complete a villain, and ſunk follow as to apply to his grace for pardon for the offence againſt him; the duke granted it with a generous indignation. Blood had a penſion of five hundred a year, and was conſtantly ſeen in the preſence-chamber: as is ſuppoſed, to ſhew to the great uncomplying men of the time, what a ready inſtrument the miniſtry had to revenge any attempt that might be made againſt them in the cauſe of liberty.

I WOULD not make this little work a Tyburn chronicle;MURDER OF MR. THYNNE. yet I cannot omit the horrible aſſaſſination, in 1681, of Thomas Thynne, eſq of Longleat, by the inſtigation of count Koningſmark, in revenge for his having married lady Elizabeth Ogle, the rich heireſs, on whom the count had a deſign. The three aſſaſſins were executed in Pall-mall on the bloody ſpot: but the court, in love with profligacy, contrived to ſave the principal *. The gallant William earl of Devonſhire would have avenged the death of his friend: the count accepted the challenge; but his conſcience prevented him from meeting the earl. He afterwards met with a fate ſuited to his actions: he attempted an intrigue, in 1686, in Germany, with a lady of diſtinguiſhed rank: he was one night waylayed, by order of the jealous huſband; was literally cut to pieces, and his remains flung into a privy, which was inſtantly bricked up.

JERMYN,JERMYN-HOUSE. and St. Alban's ſtreets took their names from the gallant Henry Jermyn earl of St. Alban's, who had a houſe at the head of the laſt. He was ſuppoſed to have been privately married to the queen dowager, Henrietta Maria. By this time miſfortunes had ſubdued that ſpirit which had contributed to precipitate [126] her firſt huſband into the ruin of his houſe. She was awed by her ſubject-ſpouſe*: her fear of him was long obſerved before the nearneſs of the connection was diſcovered.

ST. JAMES'S CHURCH.ON the ground of this gay peer, was built the preſent church of St. James, founded in the latter part of the reign of Charles II. and conſecrated in the firſt of James II. and named in honor of both ſaint and monarch. London was ſo vaſtly increaſed about this period, that a new church in this place was neceſſary. Accordingly, as much was taken from the pariſh of St. Martin in the Fields, as to form another. It is a rectory, to which, at firſt, the biſhop of London had a right of two turns in the preſentation. Lord Jermyn, nephew to the earl, had the third: but the laſt was fully reſigned to the biſhop.FINE FONT BY GIBBONS. The moſt remarkable thing in the church is the fine font of white marble, the work of Grinlin Gibbons. It is ſupported by the tree of life; the ſerpent is offering the fruit to our firſt parents, who ſtand beneath: on one ſide of the font is engraven the Baptiſt baptizing our Saviour: on another, St. Philip baptizing the eunuch: and on the third, Noah's ark, with the dove bringing the olive-branch, the type of peace to mankind .

THE chancel, above the altar, is enriched with ſome beautiful foliage in wood, by the ſame great artiſt.

THE STRAND; ITS ANTIENT STATE.THE further progreſs of this part of the town I ſhall defer mentioning till I have reached the moſt eaſtern part of Weſtminſter. I ſhall reſume my account at the opening of the Strand into Charing-Croſs, by obſerving, that in the year 1353, that fine [127] ſtreet the Strand was an open highway, with here and there a great man's houſe, with gardens to the water-ſide. In that year it was ſo ruinous, that Edward III. by an ordinance directed a tax to be raiſed upon wool, leather, wine, and all goods carried to the ſtaple at Weſtminſter, from Temple-bar to Weſtminſter-abbey, for the repair of the road; and that all owners of houſes adjacent to the highway ſhould repair as much as lay before their doors. Mention is alſo made of a bridge to be erected near the royal palace at Weſtminſter, for the conveniency of the ſaid ſtaple *: but the laſt probably meant no more than a ſtairs for the landing of the goods, which I find ſometimes went by the name of a bridge.

THERE are ſeveral inſtances of grants for building, in this extenſive road, in very early times. Edward I. granted to Walter le Barbur, a void ſpace in the high-ſtreet, in the pariſh of St. Clement Danes and St. Mary Strand: and Robert le Spencer had from the ſame prince another grant.

THERE was no continued ſtreet here till about the year 1533:THE STREET COMPLETED IN 1533. before that, it entirely cut off Weſtminſter from London, and nothing intervened except the ſcattered houſes, and a village which afterwards gave name to the whole. St. Martin's ſtood literally in the fields. But about the year 1560 a ſtreet was formed, looſely built; for all the houſes on the ſouth ſide had great gardens to the river, were called by their owners names, and in after-times gave name to the ſeveral ſtreets that ſucceeded them, pointing down to the Thames; each of them had ſtairs for the conveniency of taking boat, of which many to this day bear the names of the houſes. As the court was for centuries, either at the palace at Weſtminſter [128] or Whitehall, a boat was the cuſtomary conveyance of the great to the preſence of their ſovereign. The north ſide was a mere line of houſes from Charing-Croſs to Temple-bar; all beyond was country. The gardens which occupied part of the ſite of Convent-garden were bounded by fields, and St. Giles's was a diſtant country village. Theſe are circumſtances proper to point out, to ſhew the vaſt increaſe of our capital in little more than two centuries.

IN the ſame century was a ſecond epoch reſpecting the buildings of this part of the town. The firſt was at the time we have mentioned, or, to ſpeak from ſtrong authority, as they appear in the plan of London, made about the year 1562, by Ralph Aggas *. Our capital found itſelf ſo ſecure in the glorious government of Elizabeth, that, by the year 1600, moſt conſiderable additions were made to the north of the long line of ſtreet juſt deſcribed. St. Martin's-lane was built on both ſides. St. Giles's church was ſtill inſulated: but Broad ſtreet, and Holborn, were completely formed into ſtreets with houſes, all the way to Snow-hill. Convent-garden, and Lincoln's-inn-fields, were built, but in an irregular manner. Drury-lane, Clare-ſtreet, and Long-acre, aroſe in the ſame period.

NORTHUMBERLAND-HOUSE.THE preſent magnificent palace, Northumberland-houſe, ſtands on the ſite of the hoſpital of St. Mary Rounceval. Henry VIII. granted it to Sir Thomas Caverden. It was afterwards transferred to Henry Howard earl of Northampton; who, in the time of James I. built here a houſe, and called it after his own name. He left it to his kinſman the earl of Suffolk, lord treaſurer; and, by the [129] marriage of Algernoon Percy, earl of Northumberland, with Elizabeth daughter of Theophilus earl of Suffolk, it paſſed into the houſe of the preſent noble owner. The greater part of the houſe was built by Bernard Janſen, an architect in the reign of James I; the portal, ſince altered by the late duke of Northumberland, by a cotemporary architect, Gerard Chriſtmas, who left on it his mark, C. Ae *. I muſt not omit, that in this houſe is the noble picture of the Cornaro family, by Titian. It is very unfortunate that nothing can be more confined than the ſituation of this great houſe. The noble front is pent up by a very narrow part of the Strand; and behind by a cluſter of mean houſes, coal-wharfs, and other offenſive objects, as far as the banks of the Thames. Fortunately, by the favor of government, it enjoys the power of giving the place the moſt magnificent improvement. The late duke received a leaſe from the crown of all the intervening ground as far as the river; and, within theſe very few years, an abſolute exchange for certain lands in Northumberland, to erect batteries on againſt foreign invaſion, at the period when the project of univerſal fortification prevaled. A little time may ſee every nuſance removed, and a terrace ariſe in their ſtead, emulating that of Somerſet-houſe.

A LITTLE farther is Hungerford ſtairs and market;HUNGERFORD STAIRS. which take their name from the great family of the Hungerfords of Fairleigh, in Wiltſhire. Sir Edward, created knight of the Bath at the coronation of Charles II. had a large houſe on the ſite, which he pulled down, and multiplied into ſeveral others.

ON the other ſide of the Strand, ST. MARTIN'S IN THE FIELDS. almoſt oppoſite to Hungerford-market, [130] ſtands the church of St. Martin in the Fields, once a pariſh of vaſt extent; but much reduced at preſent by the robbing it of the tract now divided into the pariſhes of St. James, St. Anne, and St. Paul, Covent-garden. We cannot trace the time of its foundation. It was early beſtowed on the abbot and convent of St. Peter, Weſtminſter. In 1222, there was a diſpute between the abbot and the city of London, about the juriſdiction of this church. And in 1363, we firſt find the name of a vicar, in room of Thomas Skyn, who had reſigned. In the reign of Henry VIII. a ſmall church was built here at the king's expence, by reaſon of the poverty of the pariſhioners, who poſſibly were at that period very few. In 1607 it was enlarged, becauſe of the increaſe of buildings. In 1721 it was found neceſſary to take the whole down, and in five years from that time, this magnificent temple was completed, at the expence of near thirty-ſeven thouſand pounds. This ſeems the beſt performance of Gibbs, the architect of the Ratcliff Library. The ſteeple is far the moſt elegant of any of that ſtyle which I named the Pepper-box; and with which (I beg pardon of the good people of Glaſgow) I marked their boaſted ſteeple of St. Andrew.

YORK-HOUSE.HEATH, archbiſhop of York, about the year 1556, purchaſed a houſe a little beyond Hungerford-market, which had originally been the inn or lodgings of the biſhops of Norwich. When Henry VIII. had diſpoſſeſſed the primates of York of their houſe at Whitehall, the daughter, by way of reparation, made to them a grant of Suffolk-houſe, in Southwark; which he ſold, and with the * [131] money purchaſed Norwich-houſe, which afterwards was called York-houſe, when George Villiers duke of Buckingham became owner of it. On his diſpoſal of it, ſeveral ſtreets were laid out on the ſite and ground belonging to it. Theſe go under the general appellation of York-buildings; but his name and title is preſerved in George, YORK-BUILDINGS. Villiers, Duke, and Buckingham ſtreets, and even the particle of is not forgotten, being preſerved in Of-alley.

THE gate to York-ſtairs is the work of Inigo Jones, and deſerving of all the praiſes beſtowed on it by the author of the Critical Review.

DURHAM-YARD takes its name from a palace,DURHAM-PLACE. built originally by the illuſtrious Thomas de Hatfield, elected biſhop of Durham in 1345; deſigned by him for the town reſidence of him and his ſucceſſors. It was called Durham-place, i. e. palace. Be it known to all whom it concerns, that the word is only applicable to the habitations of princes, or princely perſons, and that it is with all the impropriety of vanity beſtowed on the houſes of thoſe who have luckily acquired money enough to pile on one another a greater quantity of ſtones or bricks than their neighbors.GREAT FEASTING HERE IN 1540. At this place, in 1540, was held a moſt magnificent feaſt, given by the challengers of England, who had cauſed to be proclamed, in France, Flanders, Scotland, and Spain, a great and triumphant juſting to be holden at Weſtminſter, for all comers that would undertake them. But both challengers and defendants were Engliſh. After the gallant ſports of each day, the challengers rode unto this Durham-houſe, where they kept open houſehold, and feaſted the king and queen (Anne of Cleves) with her ladies, and all the court. ‘In this time of their houſe-keeping, they had not only feaſted the king, queen, ladies, and all the court, as is aforeſhewed: [132] but alſo they cheered al the knights and burgeſſes of the common houſe in the parliament; and entertained the maior of London, with the aldermen and their wives, at a dinner, &c. The king gave to every of the ſayd challengers, and their heires for ever, in reward of their valiant activity, 100 marks, and a houſe to dwel in of yeerely revenue, out of the lands pertaining to the hoſpital of S. John of Jeruſalem *.’

IN this a [...] part of the following year, is moſt ſtrongly exemplified the unfeeling heart of this cruel prince, His ſudden tranſitions from nuptials, and joyous feſtivities, to the moſt tyrannical executions, often for offences of his own creation. In that ſmall ſpace of time, he married one queen, and put her away, becauſe he thought her a Flanders mare. He eſpouſed another, and (not without cauſe) put her and the confident to her incontinence to death. He cauſed to be executed a hopeful young peer, and three young gentlemen, for a common manſlaughter reſulting from a ſudden fray. He burnt numbers for denying the religion of Rome, and inflicted all the barbarous penalties of high treaſon on multitudes, for denying a prerogative which he had wreſted from the pope, the head of that very worſhip which he ſupported with ſuch rigour.

IN the reign of Edward VI. the mint was eſtabliſhed in this houſe, under the management of Sir William Sharrington, and the influence of the aſpiring Thomas Seymour, lord admiral. Here he propoſed to have money enough coined to accompliſh his deſigns on the throne. His practices were detected: and he ſuffered death. His tool was alſo condemned; but, ſacrificing his maſter [133] to his own ſafety, received a pardon, and was again employed under the adminiſtration of John Dudley earl of Northumberland. It afterwards became the reſidence of that ambitious man; who, in May 1553, in this palace, cauſed to be ſolemnized, with great magnificence, three marriages; his ſon, lord Guildford Dudley, with the amiable lady Jane Grey: lord Herbert, heir to the earl of Pembroke, with Catherine younger ſiſter of lady Jane: and lord Haſtings, heir to the earl of Huntingdon, with his youngeſt daughter lady Catherine Dudley *. From hence he dragged the reluctant victim, his daughter-in-law, to the Tower, there to be inveſted with regal dignity. In eight ſhort months his ambition led the ſweet innocent to the nuptial bed, the throne, and the ſcaffold.

DURHAM-HOUSE was reckoned one of the royal palaces belonging to queen Elizabeth; who gave the uſe of it to the great Sir Walter Raleigh.

DURHAM-YARD is now filled with a moſt magnificent maſs of building, called the Adelphi, ADELPHI. in honor of two brothers its architects. Before the front to the Thames is a terrace, commanding a charming view to the river, when not obſcured by the damps and poiſonous fogs, which too often infeſt the air of the lower part of our capital.

To the north of Durham-place, fronting the ſtreet,THE NEW EXCHANGE. ſtood the New Exchange, which was built under the auſpices of our monarch, in 1608. The king, queen, and royal family, honored the opening with their preſence, and named it Britaines Burſſe. It [134] was built ſomewhat on the model of the Royal Exchange, with cellars beneath, a walk above, and rows of ſhops over that, filled chiefly with milleners, ſempſtreſſes, and the like. This was a faſhionable place of reſort. In 1654 a fatal affair happened here. Mr. Gerard, a young gentleman, at that time engaged in a plot againſt Cromwell, was amuſing himſelf in the walk beneath, when he was inſulted by Don Pantaleon de Saa, brother to the ambaſſador of Portugal, who, diſliking the return he met with, determined on revenge. He came there the next day with a ſet of bravos, who, miſtaking another gentleman for Mr. Gerard, inſtantly put him to death, as he was walking with his ſiſter in one hand, and his miſtreſs in the other. Don Pantaleon was with impartial juſtice tried and condemned to the axe. Mr. Gerard, who about the ſame time was detected in the conſpiracy, was likewiſe condemned to die. By ſingular chance both the rivals ſuffered on the ſame ſcaffold, within a few hours of each other; Mr. Gerard with intrepid dignity: the Portugueſe with all the puſillanimity of an aſſaſſin*.

THE WHITE MILLENER.ABOVE ſtairs ſat, in the character of a millener, the reduced dutcheſs of Tyrconnel, wife to Richard Talbot, lord deputy of Ireland under James II; a bigotted papiſt, and fit inſtrument of the deſigns of the infatuated prince, who had created him earl before his abdication, and after that duke of Tyrconnel. A female, ſuſpected to have been his dutcheſs, after his death, ſupported herſelf for a few days (till ſhe was known, and otherwiſe provided for) by the little trade of the place: had delicacy enough to wiſh [135] not to be detected; ſhe ſat in a white maſk, and a white dreſs, and was known by the name of the White Millener.

THIS exchange has long ſince given way to a row of good houſes, which form a part of the ſtreet.

A LITTLE beyond was Ivy-bridge, which croſſed the Strand, and had beneath it a way leading to the Thames. This was the boundary between the liberties of the dutchy of Lancaſter and thoſe of Weſtminſter. Near this bridge the earls of Rutland had a houſe, at which ſeveral of the noble family breathed their laſt. The earls of Worceſter had a very large houſe between Durham-place and the Savoy, with gardens to the water-ſide. The great earl of Clarendon lived in it, before his own was built, and payed for it the extravagant rent of five hundred pounds a year. This was pulled down by their deſcendant, the duke of Beaufort; and the preſent Beaufort-buildings roſe on its ſite. This had originally been the town-houſe of the biſhops of Carliſle *. Oppoſite to theſe was the garden belonging to the abbot of Weſtminſter; which extended quite to St. Martin's church: it was called the Convent Garden, and retains the name to this day. It was granted, after the diſſolution, by Edward VI. firſt to the protector Somerſet: and afterwards to lord Ruſſel, created earl of Bedford. About 1634, Francis earl of Bedford began to clear away the old buildings, and formed the preſent handſome ſquare. The arcade and the church were the work of Inigo Jones. Bedford-houſe, the former town-houſe of the noble family, ſtood in the Strand, but has long ſince given way to Little Bedford-ſtreet.

Figure 3. Savoy Hospital. 106.

HERE is beſides the church of St. Mary le Savoy. CHURCH OF ST. MARY LE SAVOY. It was originally the chapel to the hoſpital; but was made parochial on the impious deſtruction of St. Mary le Strand by the duke of Somerſet. The roof is remarkably fine, flat, and covered with elegant ſmall compartments cut in wood; and ſhields, containing emblems of the paſſion, ſurround each, with a neat garland.

AMONG the monuments, in the chancel, that in memory of the wife of Sir Robert Douglas merits notice. The lady, who died in 1612, is but a ſecondary figure, and placed kneeling behind her huſband, dreſſed in a vaſt diſtended hood. Before her is her huſband, in an eaſy attitude, reclined, and reſting on his right arm; the other hand on his ſword. He is repreſented in armour, with a robe over it; on his head a fillet, with a bead round the edge: a motto on his arms, Toujour ſans taches *. The ſculptor has much merit in this figure.

IN a pretty gothic niche, on the oppoſite ſide (occupied probably in old times by the image of our lady) is now the figure of a kneeling female, with a counteſs's coronet on her head. This commemorates Jocoſa, daughter of Sir Alan Apſley, lieutenant of the Tower: firſt, wife to Lyſter Blunt, eſq and afterwards, of William Ramſay, earl of Dalhouſie.

ANOTHER fine monument of a recumbent lady, in a great ruff [138] and long gown, with her arms cut on it, attracts our notice; but unfortunately the inſcription is loſt.

BURLEIGH, O [...] EXETER HOUSE.BURLEIGH-HOUSE was ſaid to have been a noble pile, built by that great ſtateſman the lord treaſurer Burleigh, who died here in 1598. It was built with brick, and adorned with four ſquare turrets. It was afterwards called Exeter-houſe, from the title of his ſon and ſucceſſor. On its ſite was erected Exeter-exchange. It had been a very handſome pile, with an arcade in front, a gallery above, and ſhops in both. The plan did not ſucceed; for the New Exchange had the preference, and ſtole away both tenants and cuſtomers. A part of the old houſe is ſtill to be ſeen. All originated in ſacrilege. On the ſite ſtood a houſe belonging to die parſon of St. Martin's: Sir Thomas Palmer, a creature of the duke of Somerſet, obtained it by compoſition, in the time of Edward VI. and began to build there a magnificent houſe of brick and timber *. This afterwards came into the hands of lord Burleigh, who finiſhed it in the magnificent manner we have mentioned.

WIMBLEDON-HOUSE.A LITTLE farther (where Doyley's warehouſe now ſtands) was Wimbledon-houſe, built by Sir Edward Cecil, ſon to the firſt earl of Exeter, and created by Charles I. viſcount Wimbledon.

NOT far from hence ſtood the Strand Bridge, which croſſed the ſtreet, and received the water which ran from the high grounds, through the preſent Catherine ſtreet, and delivered it into the Thames.

OTHER ANTIENT BUILDINGS.ON the ſouth ſide of the Strand ſtood a number of buildings, which fell victims to ſacrilege, in the reign of Edward VI. St. [139] Mary le Strand, was a very antient church and pariſh, a rectory, in the gift of the biſhops of Worceſter, who had near it their inn, or town reſidence. The biſhops of Litchfield and Coventry had another, built by Walter de Langton, elected biſhop of that ſee in 1296. It was alſo called Cheſter Inn, CHESTER INN. as that biſhoprick was at the time annexed to the former. The biſhops of Landaff had alſo another houſe or inn. Finally, the Strand Inn, an inn of Chancery, belonging to the Temple *. I muſt ſtop a moment to ſay, that Occleve, the poet of the reign of Henry V. ſtudied the law here: the place of his education is called Cheſtres Inn ; but, as that was never appropriated to the ſtudy of the law, I little doubt but it is a miſtake for this adjacent houſe. Every one of theſe were levelled to the ground by the protector Somerſet, to make way for the magnificent palace which bears his name.SOMERSET-HOUSE. The architect is ſuppoſed to have been one John of Padua, who had a ſalary in the preceding reign, under the title of devizor of his majeſty's buildings , which was continued to him in the reign of the ſon. No atonement was made, no compenſation to the owners. Part of the church of St. John of Jeruſalem, and the tower, were blown up for the ſake of the materials. The cloiſters on the north ſide of St. Paul's underwent the ſame fate, together with the charnel-houſe and chapel: the tombs were deſtroyed, and the bones impiouſly carried away and flung into Finſbury Fields. This was done in 1549, when the building was firſt began: poſſibly the founder never enjoyed the uſe of this palace; [140] for in 1552 he fell a juſt victim on the ſcaffold. The crime of ſacrilege is never mentioned among the numerous articles brought againſt him. This is no wonder, ſince every great man in thoſe days, proteſtant and papiſt, ſhewed equal rapacity after the goods of the church.

AFTER his death his palace fell to the crown. Queen Elizabeth lived here at certain times, moſt probably at the expence of her kinſman lord Hunſdon, to whom ſhe had given the uſe. Anne of Denmark kept her court here: and Catherine queen of Charles II. lived here for ſome time in the life of her unfaithful ſpouſe; and after his death, till ſhe retired into her native country.

ANTIENT B [...]ING.THE architecture of old Somerſet-houſe was the mixture of Grecian and Gothic, introduced into England in the reign preceding its erection. The back-front, and the water-gate, were built from a deſign of Inigo Jones, after the year 1623. A chapel was begun by him in that year, and afterwards finiſhed. It was intended for the uſe of his catholic ſpouſe the Infanta of Spain; but, on the failure of that romantic match, it ſerved for the uſes of the profeſſors of her religion.

AS Charles II. did not find it compatible with his gallantries that his ſpouſe Catherine ſhould be reſident at Whitehall, he lodged her, during ſome part of his reign, in this palace. This made it the haunt of the Catholics: and poſſibly, during the phrenetic rage of the nation at that period againſt the profeſſors of her religion, occaſioned it to have been made the pretended ſcene of the murder of Sir Edmonbury Godfrey, MURDER OF SIR EDMONBURY GODFREY. in the year 1678. The infamous witneſſes againſt his ſuppoſed murderers declared, that he was waylaid, and inveigled into the palace, under pretence [141] of keeping the peace between two ſervants who were fighting in the yard: that he was there ſtrangled, his neck broke, and his own ſword run through his body: that he was kept four days before they ventured to remove him; at length, his corpſe was firſt carried in a ſedan-chair to S [...]ho, and then on a horſe to Primroſe-hill, between Kilburn and Hampſtead. There it certainly was found, transfixed with the ſword, and his money in his pocket, and his rings on his fingers. The murder therefore was not by robbers, but the effect of private revenge: but it is not probable that it was committed within theſe walls; for the aſſaſſins would never have hazarded a diſcovery by carrying the corpſe three miles, when they could have ſo ſafely diſpoſed of it into the Thames. The abandoned characters of the evidences, Prance and Bedloe (the former of whom had been treated with moſt horrid cruelties, to compel him to confeſs what he declared he never was guilty of) together with the abſurd and irreconcileable teſtimony they gave on the trial, has made unprejudiced times to doubt the whole. That he was murdered there is no doubt: he had been an active magiſtrate, and had made many enemies. The marks of ſtrangling round his throat, and his broken neck, evince the impoſſibility of his having put an end to his own exiſtence, as ſome have inſinuated. But the innocence of the three poor convicts would not avail, the torrent of prejudice prevaling againſt them; and they were executed, denying the facts in the moment of death. One was a Proteſtant: the other two Roman Catholics, and belonging to the chapel; ſo probably were fixed on, by the inſtigators of the accuſation, in order to involve the queen in the uncharitable ſuſpicion.

[142]THIS tragedy became at the time the ſubject of many medals *. On one is the buſt of Sir Edmondbury, and two hands ſtrangling him: on the reverſe, the pope giving his benediction to a man ſtrangling another on the ground. On a ſecond, with the ſame buſt, is the repreſentation of the carrying the magiſtrate on horſeback to Primroſe-hill. A third, makes him walking with his broken neck, and ſword buried in his body: and on the reverſe, St. Dennis with his head in his hand, with this inſcription:

GODFREY walks up hill after he was dead,
DENIS walks down hill carrying his head.

THE preſent magnificent building is after a deſign by Sir William Chambers: when completed, it is to be the ſtation of numbers of our public offices. The Navy Office, and indeed almoſt every one, excepting the Treaſury, the Secretary of State's, the Admiralty, and the War Office.

THE Royal Society, and the Society of Antiquarians, hold their meetings here: and here alſo are annually exhibited the works of the Britiſh painters and ſculptors.

THE terrace on the ſouth ſide is a walk bounded by the Thames, and unparalleled for grandeur and beauty of view.

BATH'S INN.TO the eaſt of Somerſet-houſe, ſtood Bath's Inn, inhabited by the biſhops of Bath and Wells, in their viſits to the capital. It was wreſted from them, in the reign of Edward VI. by lord Thomas Seymour, high admiral, and received the name of Seymour-place. This was one of the ſcenes of his indecent dalliance with the princeſs Elizabeth, afterwards queen. At firſt he certainly [143] was not ill received, notwithſtanding he had juſt eſpouſed the unhappy Catherine Parre. Ambition, not luſt, actuated this wretched man: his deſigns on Elizabeth, and conſequently on the crown, ſpurred him on. The inſtrument of his deſign was Thomas Parrye, cofferer to the princeſs, to whom he offered, for her grace's accommodation, his houſe and all the furniture, during her ſtay in London *. The queen's death, and her own ſuſpicions on her death-bed, give juſt cauſe of the fouleſt ſurmiſes . His execution, which ſoon followed, put an end to his projects, and ſaved Elizabeth, and the nation, from a tyrant, poſſibly worſe than him from whom they had been juſt releaſed.

THIS houſe in after-times paſſed to Thomas Howard earl of Arundel, and was called Arundel palace. The Duc de Sully, ARUNDEL PALACE. who was lodged in it during his embaſſy to England, on the acceſſion of James I. ſays, it was one of the fineſt and moſt commodious of any in London, from its great number of apartments on the ſame floor: the views from the extenſive gardens, up and down the river, were remarkably fine. Here was kept the magnificent collection of ſtatues formed by the earl. Howſoever faulty the noble hiſtorian may have repreſented him in ſome reſpects, his judgment in the fine arts will remain indiſputable. His relation, the duke of Norfolk, had a houſe at a very ſmall diſtance from this. Both were pulled down in the laſt century, but their names are retained in the ſtreets which roſe on their ſites.

AFTER it came into the poſſeſſion of the duke of Norfolk (the [144] ſame who preſented his library to the Royal Society) he permitted that learned body to hold their meetings in Arundel-houſe; but on its being ordered to be pulled down, the meetings were removed to Greſ [...]am college *.

AN OLD CROSS.OPPOSITE to Cheſter Inn, ſtood an antient croſs. According to the ſimplicity of the age, in the year 1294, and at other times, the judges ſat without the city, on this croſs, to adminiſter juſtice; and ſometimes they made uſe of the biſhop's houſe for that purpoſe.

MAY-POLE.IN the beginning of the preſent century, ſomewhat eaſt of the ſite of the croſs was the rural appearance of a May-pole. In 1717, it fell to decay, and the remainder was begged by Sir Iſaac Newton, who cauſed it to be carried to Wanſted, in Eſſex, where it was erected in the park, and had the honor of raiſing the greateſt teleſcope then known. On its place roſe the firſt of the fifty new churches, which is known by the name of the New Church in the Strand. The firſt ſtone was laid in 1714. The architect was Gills; who loaded it with ornaments to ſuch a degree as to gain very little credit to his own taſte, or that of his employers.

DRURY-HOUSE.IN Drury-lane, which points towards the church, ſtood Drury-houſe, the habitation of the great family of the Druries, and, I believe, built by Sir William Drury, knight of the Garter, a moſt able commander in the Iriſh wars; who unfortunately fell in a duel with Sir John Boroughs, in a fooliſh quarrel about precedency . I cannot learn into whoſe hands it paſſed afterwards. During the time of the fatal diſcontents of the favorite Eſſex, it [145] was the place where his imprudent adviſers reſolved on ſuch counſels, as terminated in the deſtruction of him and his adherents.

IN the next century we find the heroic William lord Craven, AFTERWARDS CRAVEN-HOUSE. afterwards earl Craven, poſſeſſed of this houſe: he rebuilt it in the form we now ſee, a large brick pile now concealed by other buildings. It is at preſent a public-houſe. In ſearching after Craven-houſe, I inſtantly knew it by the ſign, that of the queen of Bohemia's head, his admired miſtreſs, whoſe battles he firſt fought, animated by love and duty. When he could aſpire at her hand, it is ſuppoſed he ſuccceded: it is ſaid they were privately married; and that he built for her the fine ſeat at Hampſtead Marſhal, in the county of Berks, which was deſtroyed by fire. I have before given an account of this illuſtrious nobleman *. I may repeat the ſervice he rendered to this his native city in particular. He was ſo indefatigable in preventing the ravages of the frequent fires of thoſe days, that it was ſaid, that his very horſe ſmelt it out. He, and the duke of Albemarle (the noted Monk) heroically ſtayed in town during the dreadful peſtilence; and, at the hazard of their lives, preſerved order in the midſt of the terrors of the time.

IN the court in Craven-buildings is a very good portrait of this hero, in armour, with a truncheon in his hand, and mounted on his white horſe: on each ſide is an earl's and a baron's coronet, and the letters W. C. It is painted al freſco, and in good preſervation.

THE theatre royal, in this ſtreet, originated on the Reſtoration. [146] The king made a grant of a patent for acting in what was then called the Cock-pit, and the Phoenix. The actors were the king's ſervants, were on the eſtabliſhment, and ten of them were called Gentlemen of the Great Chamber, and had ten yards of ſcarlet cloth allowed them, with a ſuitable quantity of lace *.

IT is ſingular that this lane, of later times ſo notorious for intrigue, ſhould receive its title from a family-name, which, in the language of Chaucer, had an amorous ſignification:

Of bataille and of chevalrie,
Of ladies love and Druerie,
Anon I wol you tell.

IN this neighborhood, towards the Temple, are ſeveral little ſeminaries of law, or inns of Chancery, belonging to the Inner and Middle Temple: ſuch as Lions-inn, in uſe as long at leſt as the reign of Henry V; the New-inn, where the ſtudents of the Strand-inn neſtled, after they were routed from thence by the duke of Somerſet; and Clements-inn, mentioned in the time of Edward IV. I muſt not omit, that in New-inn the great Sir Thomas More had the early part of his education, before he removed to Lincoln's-inn .

CHURCH OF ST. CLEMENT DANES.BETWEEN Clements-inn and the Strand, is the church of St. Clement Danes, called ſo either from being the place of interment of Harold the Barefooted, or of the maſſacre of certain Danes who had taken refuge there: it was one of the churches built on this tract before the Conqueſt. At the time of the inſurrection of the unhappy earl of Eſſex, a piece of artillery was placed on the [147] top of the tower, which commanded Eſſex-houſe. The preſent was rebuilt in 1640 *. Here, beneath a tomb with his figure expreſſed in braſs, was buried John Arundel, biſhop of Exeter, who died in 1503, at Exeter-houſe, the town reſidence of the biſhops of Exeter. EXETER-HOUSE. It was founded by Walter Stapleton, biſhop of that ſee, and lord treaſurer of England, unfortunately a favorite with Edward II. in thoſe factious days: he was ſeized by the mob, hurried to Cheap-ſide, where they beheaded him, and carried his corpſe before his own palace, and there buried it beneath a heap of ſand. The houſe was ſaid to have been very magnificent. Lacy, biſhop of Exeter in the reign of Henry VI. added a great hall. The firſt lord Paget, a good catholic, made no ſcruple of laying violent hands on it, in the grand period of plunder. He improved it greatly, and called it after his own name.PAGET-HOUSE. At this houſe it was alleged that the great duke of Somerſet deſigned the aſſaſſination of ſeveral of the council. This involved the noble owner in his ruin. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, it was poſſeſſed by the great earl of Leiceſter, and changed its name to Leiceſter-houſe. LEICESTER-HOUSE. The earl left it by will to his ſon-in-law Robert earl of Eſſex, the unfortunate imprudent favorite of Elizabeth, and it was called after his name. This was the ſcene of his frantic actions;ESSEX-HOUSE. from hence he ſallied on the vain hope of exciting the city to arm in his behalf againſt its ſovereign; to this place he forced his way back, and after a ſhort ſiege ſubmitted, and ſoon afterwards received his due puniſhment, reluctantly inflicted by his miſtreſs, heſitating between fear and unſeaſonable love. The memory of [148] theſe tranſactions is ſtill retained in the name of Eſſex-ſtreet, and Eſſex-ſtairs, and Devereux-court. In the laſt, on the outſide of a houſe, is placed a buſt of the parlement general, ſon of the unfortunate favorite.

TEMPLE-BAR.THE Strand was divided, in 1670, from Fleet-ſtreet, by the gate called Temple-bar; before the great fire, by nothing but poſts, rails, and chains. On this gate have been the ſad exhibition of the heads of ſuch unhappy men who attempt the ſubverſion of the government of their country. The laſt (and may they be the laſt!) were of thoſe who fell victims, in 1746, to principles fortunately extinct with the family from which they originated. This gate is the weſtern limit of Farringdon Ward Without, or the weſtern extremity of the city of London. On the right hand are the entrances into the Temple, THE TEMPLE. one of our celebrated ſeats of law, which took its name from that gallant religious military order the knights templars. They were originally cruſaders, who happening to be quartered in places adjacent to the holy temple in Jeruſalem, in 1118, conſecrated themſelves to the ſervice of religion, by deeds of * arms. Hugo de Paganis, Geoffry of St. Omers, and ſeven others, began the order, by binding themſelves, after the manner of the regular canons of St. Auguſtines, to chaſtity and obedience, and profeſſing to protect the pilgrims to the Holy Land from all wrong and robbery on the road. At firſt they ſubſiſted on alms, and had only one horſe between two of them; a rule was appointed for them, and they wore a white habit, afterwards diſtinguiſhed by a red croſs on their left ſhoulder. By [149] their devotion, and the fame of their gallant actions, they became very popular in all parts of Europe; and ſo enriched by the favor of princes, and other great men, that, at the time of their diſſolution, the order was found poſſeſſed of ſixteen thouſand manors. It became at laſt ſo infected with pride, and luxury,FALL OF THE KNIGHTS TEMPLARS. as to excite general hatred; a perſecution, founded on moſt unjuſt and fictitious accuſations, was formed againſt them in France, under Philip le Bel. Their riches ſeem to have been their chief crime: numbers of innocent and heroic knights ſuffered in the flames, with the piety and conſtancy of martyrs; ſome of them, at the ſtake, ſummoned their chief enemies, Clement V. and Philip, to appear in a certain time at the divine tribunal; both of thoſe princes died about the time preſcribed, which, in an age of ſuperſtition, proved the validity. This potent order came into England in the reign of king Stephen, and had their firſt houſe in Holborn, which was called the Old Temple. They founded the New Temple in 1185, where they continued till the ſuppreſſion of the order in 1310, when they were condemned to perpetual penance, and diſperſed into ſeveral monaſteries. Edward II. granted this houſe, and all their other poſſeſſions in London, to Thomas earl of Lancaſter, and, after his rebellion and forfeiture, to Aymer de Valence, earl of Pembroke; on his death, they reverted to the crown, and were given to the knights hoſpitallers of the order of St. John of Jeruſalem, a few years after they had ſo valiantly driven the Turks out of the iſle of Rhodes. Theſe knights again granted the Temple to the ſtudents of the common law, in the reign of Edward III. to whoſe uſe it has been ever ſince applied.

THE church was founded by the templars in the reign of Henry II. upon the model of that of the holy ſepulchre,ITS ROUND CHURCH. and was [150] conſecrated in 1185, by Heraclius, patriarch of Jeruſalem. The entrance is through a door with a Saxon arch. Within, the form is circular, ſupported by ſix round arches, each reſting on four round pillars, bound together by a faſcia. Above each arch is a window with a rounded top, with a gallery, and rich Saxon arches interſecting each other. On the outſide of the pillars is a conſiderable ſpace, preſerving the circular form. On the lower part of the wall are ſmall pilaſters meeting in pointed arches at top, and over each pillar a groteſque head.

JOINED to this building, is a large choir of a ſquare form, with narrow gothic windows, evidently built at another time. On the outſide is a buttreſs between every window.

MONUMENTS.ON the floor of the round church are two groups of knights. In the firſt are four, each of them croſs-legged, three of them in complete mail, in plain helmets flatted at top, and with very long ſhields. One is known to have been Geoffry de Magnaville, created earl of Eſſex in 1148. His end was ſingular; for, driven to deſpair by the injuſtice of his monarch king Stephen, he gave looſe to every act of violence. He was mortally wounded at an attack of Burwel caſtle, in Cambridgeſhire; and, being found by ſome templars, was dreſſed by them in the habit of the order and carried from the ſpot: as he died excommunicated, they wrapped his body in lead, and hung it on a crooked tree in the Temple orchard. On being abſolved by the pope (it being proved that he expreſſed great penitence in his laſt moments) he was taken down, and buried firſt in the cemetery, and afterwards in the place where we find this memorial of him *.

[151]ONE of theſe figures is ſingular, being bare-headed, and bald, his legs armed, his hands mailed, his mantle long, round his neck a cowl, as if, according to a common ſuperſtition in early days, he had deſired to be buried in the dreſs of a monk, leaſt the evil ſpirit ſhould take poſſeſſion of his body. On his ſhield are three fleurs de lis.

IN this group is a ſtone coffin of a ridged ſhape, conjectured to have been the tomb of William Plantagenet, fifth ſon of Henry III.

IN the ſecond group are other figures, but none of them croſs-legged, except the outmoſt: all are armed in mail. The helmets much reſemble the former, but two are mailed. One figure is in a ſpirited attitude, drawing a broad dagger; one leg reſts on the tail of a cockatrice, the other in the action of being drawn up, with the head of the monſter beneath. None of the eight figures, except Geoffry de Magnaville, are aſcertained; but Cambden conjectures that three are intended to commemorate William earl of Pembroke, who died in 1219, and his ſons William and Gilbert, likewiſe earls of Pembroke, and Marſhals of England *. In the firſt group, one of them bears a lion on his ſhield, the arms of that great family. Gilbert was brought up to the church, and, notwithſtanding he was totally unſkilled in exerciſes of chivalry, would enter into the gallant liſts; but mounting a fiery courſer, was run away with, flung off, and killed, at a tournament at Ware, in 1242.

THE being repreſented croſs-legged is not always a proof of the deceaſed having had the merit either of having been a cru [...]ſader, [152] or having made a pilgrimage to the holy ſepulchre. I have ſeen, at Mitton in Yorkſhire, two figures of the Sherbornes, thus repreſented; one died in 1629, the other in 1689: who, I verily believe, could never have had any more than a wiſh to enter the holy land.

TO theſe antient monuments may be added that of a biſhop, in his epiſcopal dreſs, a mitre, and a croſier, well executed in ſtone.

OF illuſtrious perſons of later date, is the famous Plowden, a Shropſhire man, treaſurer of this ſociety in 1572, and a lawyer of moſt diſtinguiſhed abilities. Cambden ſays of him, that in integrity he was ſecond to none of his profeſſion. His figure is repreſented recumbent, and in his gown.

HERE is interred the celebrated Selden, who died in 1654. He was the beſt ſkilled in the conſtitution, and the various branches of antiquity, of any man. Yet, towards the cloſe of his life, he was ſo thoroughly convinced of the vanity of all human knowlege, as to ſay, that the 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th verſes of the ſecond chapter of the epiſtle to Titus, afforded him more ſolid conſolation than all that he had ever read.

SIR John Vaughan, born at Trawſcoed, in Cardiganſhire, lies near his friend Mr. Selden: both their principles were anti-monarchical. After the Reſtoration, he declined preferment offered by the chancellor Clarendon, but afterwards accepted the office of chief juſtice of the common pleas, from the enemies of that illuſtrious character. He died in 1674.

HALL.THE magnificent hall was rebuilt in the treaſurerſhip of Plowden. It is ornamented with paintings by Sir James Thornhill: and by two full-length portraits of thoſe pillars of the law, [153] Lyttleton, who died in 1481; and his commentator, the able but inſolent Coke, who departed in 1634.

THE account of the great feaſt given in this hall, by the ſerjeants, in 1555, is extremely worth conſulting *; and alſo of the hoſpitable Chriſtmaſſings of old times. Dudley earl of Leiceſter once enjoyed them, and, with the romance of his miſtreſs, ſtyled himſelf Palaphilos, prince of Sophie. He was entertained here by a perſon repreſenting a ſovereign prince. Palaphilos, on ſeeing him, calls Largeſs, and receives inſtantly a chain of the value of a hundred talents. I muſt refer to the Origines Judiciales for the relation of the ceremony of the reign of the Lord of Miſrule, and of his courtiers, Sir Francis Flatterer, Sir Randle Rackabite, and Sir Bartholomew Baldbreech; with the humour of hunting the fox and the cat round the hall, with ten couples of hounds, and all the other merry diſports of thoſe joyous days.

IN the parlement chamber are painted all the arms of the treaſurers, ſince the firſt who poſſeſſed the office. It is alſo adorned with ſome of Gibbon's carving.

THE Middle Temple gate was erected by Sir Amias Powlet, on a ſingular occaſion. It ſeems that Sir Amias, about the year 1501, thought fit to put cardinal Wolſey, then parſon of Lymington, into the ſtocks . In 1515, being ſent for to London, by the cardinal, on account of that antient grudge, he was commanded not to quit town till farther orders. In conſequence, he lodged five or ſix years in this gateway, which he rebuilt; and, to pacify his eminence, [154] adorned the front with the cardinal's cap, badges, cogniſance, and other devices, of this butcher's ſon: ſo low were the great men obliged to ſtoop to that meteor of the times *!

THE TEMPLE GARDEN.THE garden has of late been moſt judiciouſly enlarged, by a conſiderable embankment into the river; and part of the filthy muddy ſhore is converted into a moſt beautiful walk. The view up and down the water is moſt extremely rich. Blackfriars-bridge, part of Weſtminſter-bridge, the Adelphi, and the elegant back-front of Somerſet-houſe, rival the world in variety and magnificence of objects. If elegance alone was to be conſulted, it is heartily to be wiſhed that theſe embankments may make a farther progreſs; the defect of which, alone, gives to the Seine, at Paris, a boaſted ſuperiority. Without the prejudices of an Engliſhman, I will venture to dare a compariſon of the bridges; but the moſt partial foreigner will never hazard the compariſon of the rivers.

SHAKESPEARE (whether from tradition, or hiſtory, I know not) makes the Temple garden the place in which the badge of the white and red roſe originated, the diſtinctive badge of the houſes of York and Lancaſter, under which the reſpective partizans of each arranged themſelves, in the fatal quarrel which cauſed ſuch torrents of Engliſh blood to flow.

The brawl to-day
Grown to this faction in the Temple Garden,
Shall ſend, between the red roſe and the white
A thouſand ſouls to death and deadly night .

THE DEVIL TAVERN.NEAR Temple-bar is the Devil Tavern, ſo called from its ſign of St. Dunſtan ſeizing the evil ſpirit by the noſe with a pair of [155] hot tongs. Ben Jonſon has immortaliſed it by his Leges Conviviales, which he wrote for the regulation of a club of wits, held here in a room he dedicated to Apollo; over the chimney-piece of which they are preſerved. The tavern was in his days kept by Simon Wadloe; whom, in a copy of verſes over the door of the Apollo, he dignified with the title of King of Skinkers.

OPPOSITE to this noted houſe is Chancery-lane, CHANCERY-LANE. the moſt antient of any to the weſt. It was built in the time of Henry III. and then called New-lane; which was afterwards changed into its preſent name, on account of its vicinity to the courts.

SERJEANTS-INN is the firſt which opens into the lane:SERJEANTS-INN. it takes its name from having been in old times the reſidence or lodgings of the ſerjeants at law, as early at leſt as the time of Henry VI. It was at that time, and poſſibly may be yet, held under a leaſe from the dean and chapter of York. In 1442 William Antrobus, citizen and taylor of London, held it at the rent of x marks a year, under the law Latin deſcription of Unum meſſuagium cum gardino in parochia S. Dunſtani, in Fleet-ſtreet, in ſuburbio civitatis LONDINI, quod nuper fuit Johannis Rote, & in quo Joh. Ellerkar, et alii ſervientes ad legem nuper inhabiterunt *.

CLIFFORDS-INN is the next, ſo named from its having been the town reſidence of Robert de Clifford, CLIFFORDS-INN. anceſtor to the earls of Cumberland. It was granted to him by Edward II; and his widow granted it to the ſtudents of the law, in the next reign, for the yearly rent of ten pounds .

FARTHER up is the Rolls. THE ROLLS. The houſe was founded by Henry III. for converted Jews, who there lived under a learned Chriſtian, [156] appointed to inſtruct and govern them. In 1279, Edward I. cauſed about two hundred and eighty Jews, of both ſexes, to be hanged for clipping. He beſtowed one half of their effects on the firſt preachers, who undertook the trouble of converting the unbelieving race; and the other half for the ſupport of the converts: the houſe was called Domus Converſorum. In 1377, it was firſt applied to its preſent uſe: and the maſter was called Cuſtos Rotulorum: the firſt was William Burſtal, clerk. The maſters were ſelected out of the church, and often king's chaplains, till the year 1534, when Thomas Cromwel, afterwards earl of Eſſex, was appointed. It is an office of high rank, and follows that of chief juſtice of the king's bench. The maſter has his chaplain, and his preacher.

CHAPEL.THE chapel is adjacent to the houſe, and was built by Inigo Jones; begun in 1617, and finiſhed at the expence of two thouſand pounds. It was conſecrated by George Mounteigne, biſhop of London, and the ſermon preached by the famous Doctor Donne. Among the monuments is one of the maſters, Sir Edward Bruce, created by James I. after his acceſſion, baron of Kinloſs. He is repreſented lying reclined, with his head reſting on one hand. His hair is ſhort; his beard long, and divided towards the end; his dreſs a long furred robe. Before him is kneeling a man in armour, poſſibly his ſon lord Kinloſs, who periſhed in the deſperate duel between him and Sir Edward Sackville, in 1613; and anceſtor to the earls of Elgin and Ayleſbury. The ſad relation is given by Sir Edward himſelf. He ſeems ſolely actuated by honor. His rival by the deepeſt * revenge.

[157]HE was one of the ambaſſadors ſent by James to congratulate queen Elizabeth on the defeat of Eſſex's inſurrection. He then commenced a ſecret correſpondence with the ſubtle Cecil; and, when James came to the throne, was, beſides the peerage, rewarded with the place of maſter of the rolls for life. He died January 14th 1610.

THE monument of John Yonge, D. L. L. is the work of Torregiano *. His figure is recumbent on a ſarcophagus, in a long red gown, and deep ſquare cap; his face finely executed, poſſibly from a caſt after his death; his chin beardleſs. Above him is the head of our Saviour, and two cherubims: reſiſtleſs ſuperſtitions of the artiſt. This gentleman was appointed maſter of the rolls in 1510, and died in 1517.

THERE is another handſome monument, of Sir Richard Allington, knight (ſon of Sir Giles Allington, of Horſeheath, in Cambridgeſhire, knight, anceſtor, by his firſt wife, of the lords Allington) who lies here, by the accident of his marriage with Jane daughter of John Cordall, eſq of Long-Melford, in Suffolk, and ſiſter and coheir of Sir William Cordall, of the ſame place, knight, and maſter of the rolls. Sir Richard, I preſume, died here: the date of his death is 1561. His figure is repreſented kneeling, in armour, with a ſhort beard and hair. His wife is oppoſite; and beneath, on a tablet, are three female figures, alſo kneeling: theſe were his daughters. After his death his widow lived in Holborn, at a houſe ſhe built, which long went by the name of Allington-place. She appears, by ſome of the parochial records of this town, to have been a lady of great charity.

[158]MY countryman Sir John Trevor, who died maſter of the rolls, in 1717, lies here. Wiſely his epitaph is thus confined, ‘Sir J. T. M. R. 1717.’ I will not repeat the evil, which regard to veracity obliged me to ſay of him in another place *. Some other maſters reſt within theſe walls; among them, Sir John Strange, but without the quibbling line, ‘Here lies an honeſt Lawyer, that is Strange!

CHICHESTER RENTS.ADJACENT to Chancery-lane, the biſhops of Chicheſter had their town houſe. It was built in a garden, once belonging to John Herberton, and was granted to them by Henry III. who excepted it out of the charter of the Domus Converſorum . At preſent the ſite is covered with houſes, known by the name of Chicheſter Rents.

LINCOLN'S-INN.THE gate to Lincoln's-Inn is of brick, but no ſmall ornament to the ſtreet. It was built by Sir Thomas Lovel, once a member of this inn, and afterwards treaſurer of the houſhold to Henry VII. The other parts were rebuilt at different times, but much about the ſame period. None of the original building is left, for it was formed out of the houſe of the Black Friars, which fronted Holborn; and of the palace of Ralph Nevil, chancellor of England, and biſhop of Chicheſter, built by him in the reign of Henry III. on a piece of ground granted to him by the king. It continued to be inhabited by ſome of his ſucceſſors in the ſee. This was the original ſite of the Dominicans, or Black Friars, before they removed to the ſpot now known by that name. On part of the ground now covered with buildings, Henry Lacy, earl of Lincoln, [159] built an Inne, as it was in thoſe days called, for himſelf, in which he died in 1312. The ground did belong to the Black Friars, and was granted by Edward I. to that great earl. The whole has retained his name. One of the biſhops of Chicheſter, in after times, did grant leaſes of the buildings to certain ſtudents of the law, reſerving to themſelves a rent and lodgings for themſelves, whenever they came to town. This ſeems to have taken place about the time of Henry VII.

THE chapel was deſigned by Inigo Jones; CHAPEL. it is built upon maſſy pillars, and affords, under its ſhelter, an excellent walk. This work evinces that Inigo never was deſigned for a gothic architect. The lord chancellor holds his ſittings in the great hall. This, like that of the Temple, had its revels, and great Chriſtmaſſes. ANTIENT REVELS. Inſtead of the Lord of Miſrule, it had its King of the Cocknies. They had alſo a Jack Straw; but in the time of queen Elizabeth he, and all his adherents, were utterly baniſhed. I muſt not omit, that in the ſame reign ſumptuary laws were made to regulate the dreſs of the members of the houſe; who were forbidden to wear long hair, or great ruffs, cloaks, boots, or ſpurs.REGULATIONS ABOUT BEARDS. In the reign of Henry VIII. beards were prohibited at the great table, under pain of paying double commons. His daughter Elizabeth, in the firſt year of her reign, confined them to a fortnight's growth, under penalty of 3s. 4d.; but the faſhion prevaled ſo ſtrongly, that the prohibition was repealed, and no manner of ſize limited to that venerable excreſcence!

LINCOLN'S-INN-FIELDS would have been one of our moſt beautiful ſquares, had it been built on a regular plan.LINCOLN'S-INN-FIELDS. The diſpoſition of it was, in 1618, committed to the care of the lord chancellor, the earls of Worceſter, Pembroke, Arundel, and [160] others. Inigo Jones drew the ground-plot, and gave it the exact dimenſions of the baſe of one of the pyramids of Egypt. In the ſide called Portugal Row, is Lindeſey-houſe, once the ſeat of the earls of Lindeſey, and of their deſcendants the dukes of Ancaſter; built after a beautiful deſign of that great architect. The view of this ſide of the ſquare, and of Lincoln's-Inn gardens, is moſt particularly pleaſing, when ſhone on by the weſtern ſun. Here alſo was, in the time of king William, a playhouſe, erected within the walls of the tennis-court, under the royal patronage. In this theatre Betterton, and his troop of actors, excited the admiration of the public, if we may credit Cibber, as much as Roſcius did the people of Rome, or G [...]rrick thoſe of England in recent days.

EXECUTION OF LORD RUSSEL.ON another ſtage, of a different nature, was performed the ſad tragedy of the death of the virtuous lord Ruſſel, who loſt his head in the middle of the ſquare, on July 21ſt, 1683. Party writers aſſert that he was brought here in preference to any other ſpot, in order to mortify the citizens with the ſight. In fact, it was the neareſt open ſpace to Newgate, the place of his lordſhip's confinement: otherwiſe the dragging him to Tower-hill, the uſual concluding ſcene on theſe dreadful occaſions, would have given his enemies full opportunity of indulging the imputed malice.

NEWCASTLE-HOUSE.IN the ſame ſquare, at the corner of Queen-ſtreet, ſtands a houſe inhabited by the well known miniſter, the late duke of Newcaſtle. It was built about the year 1686, by the marquis of Powis, and called Powis-houſe, and afterwards ſold to the late noble owner. The architect was captain William Winde.

IN the laſt century Queen-ſtreet was the reſidence of many of our people of rank. Among others was Conway-houſe, the reſidence of the noble family of that name; Paulet-houſe, belonging [161] to the marquis of Wincheſter; and the houſe in which lord Herbert, of Cherbury, finiſhed his romantic life.

ON the back part of Portugal Row, is Clare-market; cloſe to which, the ſecond John earl of Clare had a palace of his own building, in which he lived about the year 1657, in a moſt princely manner *.

I SHALL purſue, from Queen-ſtreet, my journey weſtward, and point out the moſt remarkable places which roſe into being between the years 1562 and 1600, and incidentally of ſome others of later date. I have before mentioned the ſtreets which roſe in that period. Let me add,LONG-ACRE. that Long-acre was built on a piece of ground, once belonging to Weſtminſter-abby, called the ſeven acres, and which, in 1552, were granted to John earl of Bedford.

ST. GILES's church, and a few houſes to the weſt of it,ST. GILES'S IN THE FIELDS. in the year 1600, was but barely ſeparated from Broad-ſtreet. The church is ſuppoſed to have belonged to an hoſpital for lepers, founded about the year 1117, by Matilda queen to Henry I. In antient times it was cuſtomary to preſent to malefactors, on their way to the gallows (which, about the year 1413, was removed from Smithfield, and placed between St. Giles's High-ſtreet, and Hog-lane) a great bowl of ale, as the laſt refreſhment they were to receive in this life . On the door to the church-yard is a curious piece of ſculpture, repreſenting the laſt day, containing an amazing number of figures, ſet up about the year 1686.

HERE was executed, in the moſt barbarous manner, the famous Sir John Oldcaſtle, baron Cobham. His crime was that of adopting [162] the tenets of Wycliffe. He was miſrepreſented to our heroic prince, Henry V. by the bigoted clergy, as a heretic and traitor; and that he was actually at the head of thirty thouſand Lollards, in theſe very fields. About a hundred inoffenſive people were found there: Cobham eſcaped; but was taken ſome time after in Wales. He ſuffered death on this ſpot: was hung on a gallows, by a chain faſtened round his body, and, thus ſuſpended, burnt alive. He died, not with the calm conſtancy of a martyr, but with the wildeſt effuſions of enthuſiaſtic ravings.

CHURCH.THIS church was rebuilt in 1625. By the amazing raiſing of the ground by filth, and various adventitious matter, the floor, in the year 1730, was eight feet below the ſurface acquired in the intervening time. This alone made it neceſſary to rebuild the church, in the preſent century. The firſt ſtone was laid in 1730; it was finiſhed in 1734, at the expence of ten thouſand pounds, in a manner which does great credit to its architect, Mr. Henry Flitcraft.

IN the church-yard I have obſerved with horror a great ſquare pit, with many rows of coffins piled one upon the other, all expoſed to ſight and ſmell. Some of the piles were incomplete, expecting the mortality of the night. I turned away diſguſted at the view, and ſcandalized at the want of police, which ſo little regards the health of the living as to permit ſo many putrid corpſes, tacked between ſome flight boards, diſperſing their dangerous effluvia over the capital.

NEAR the church was the houſe of Alice dutcheſs Dudley, who died here in 1669, aged ninety. She was the widow of the great Sir Robert Dudley, ſon to Robert earl of Leiceſter, who, by various untoward circumſtances, was denied legitimacy, and his paternal [163] eſtates. He aſſumed the title of duke of Northumberland, and lived and died in great eſtimation in Tuſcany. This lady was advanced to the title of dutcheſs by Charles I. She merited the honor by the greatneſs of her mind and extent of her charities. Her body was interred at Stonely, in Warwickſhire, the place of her family, ſhe being third daughter of Sir Thomas Leigh, of Stonely, anceſtor of the late lord Leigh. A fine monument was erected to her honor at Stonely *, and a grateful memorial of her in this church.

THE mention of St. Giles's bowl, naturally brings one to the late place of the concluſion of human laws. It was called in the time of Edward III. when the gentle Mortimer finiſhed his days here, The Elms; but the original as well as preſent name was Tybourne, TYBOURNE. not from tye and burn, as if it was called ſo from the manner of capital puniſhments, but from Bourne, the Saxon word for a brook, which gave name to a manor before the Conqueſt. Here was alſo a village and church denominated St. John the Evangeliſt, which fell to decay, and was ſucceeded by that of Mary bourne, corrupted into Mary-la-bonne. About the year 1238, this brook furniſhed nine conduits for ſupplying the city with water: but the introduction of the New River ſuperſeded the uſe of them. Here the lord mayor had a banquetting-houſe, to which his lordſhip and brethren were wont to repair on horſeback, attended by their ladies in waggons: and, after viewing the conduits, they returned to the city, where they were magnificently entertained by the lord mayor .

[164]IN 1626, queen Henrietta Maria was compelled by her prieſts to take a walk, by way of penance, to Tyburn. What her offence was we are not told; but Charles was ſo diſguſted at this inſolence, that he ſoon after ſent them, and all her majeſty's French ſervants, out of the kingdom *.

I SHALL return through the mile and a quarter of country, at this time formed into Oxford-ſtreet, as handſome a one as any in Europe, and, I believe, the longeſt. After paſſing through Broad-ſtreet, and getting into Holborn, is Bloomſbury, the ancient manor of Lomeſbury, in which our kings in early times had their ſtables: all the ſpace is at preſent covered with handſome ſtreets, and a fine ſquare. This was firſt called Southampton-ſquare; and the great houſe which forms one ſide, built after a deſign of Inigo Jones, BEDFORD-HOUSE. Southampton (now Bedford) houſe. From hence the amiable relict of William lord Ruſſel dates her letters; this being her reſidence till her death in 1723. The late duke fitted up the gallery, and bought the cartoons, copied by Sir James Thornhill, at the ſale of that eminent artiſt.

MONTAGUE-HOUSE.MONTAGUE-HOUSE (now the Britiſh Muſeum) was built on a French plan, by the firſt duke of Montague, who had been ambaſſador in France. The ſtaircaſe and ceilings were painted by Rouſſeau and La Foſſe: the apotheoſis of Iris, and the aſſembly of the gods, are by the laſt. His grace's ſecond wife was the mad dutcheſs of Albemarle, widow to Chriſtopher, ſecond duke of that title. She married her ſecond huſband as emperor of China, which gave occaſion to a ſcene in Sir Courtly Nice. She was kept in the ground apartment during his grace's life, and was ſerved on the knee to the day of her death, which happened in 1731, at Newcaſtle-houſe, at [165] Clerkenwell *. The ſecond duke and dutcheſs lived only in one of the wings, till their houſe at Whitehall was completed.

I MUST mention, that to the eaſt of Bloomſbury-ſquare, POWIS-HOUSE. in Great Ormond-ſtreet, ſtood in my memory Powis-houſe, originally built by the marquis of Powis, in the laſt century. When it was occupied by the Duc d'Aumont, ambaſſador from Louis XIV. in 1712, it was burnt down, and rebuilt at the expence of that magnificent monarch. It was of brick, and ornamented with fluted pilaſters. On the top was a great reſervoir, as a guard againſt fire, and it alſo ſerved as a fiſh-pond. This houſe was pulled down and the ground granted on building leaſes.

I SHALL juſt mention Red-lion-ſquare, RED-LION-SQUARE. not far to the ſouth of this houſe, merely for the ſake of ſome lines on its clumſy obeliſk:

Obtuſum
Obtuſioris Ingenii
Monumentum.
Quid me reſpicis viator?
Vade.

NOT far from Holborn, is the church of St. George, ST. GEORGE's BLOOMSBURY. in Bloomſbury, which, with its magnificent porch ſupported by pillars of the Corinthian order, placed before a plain body, and its wondrous ſteeple, I cannot ſtigmatize ſtronger than in the words of Mr. Walpole, who ſtyles it a maſterpiece of abſurdity. On the tower is a pyramid, at each corner of which are the ſupporters of England, a lion and an unicorn alternate, the firſt with its heels upwards: and the pyramid finiſhes with the ſtatue of George I. The architect was Nicholas Hawkſmoor. The church was conſecrated [166] in 1731: and is a pariſh taken out of that of St. Giles. The ſquare was, in the beginning of this century, the reſidence of many of our nobility; in later times, that of the more wealthy gentlemen of the long robe.

WE now enter again on the ſtormy latitude of the law. Lincoln's-Inn is left a little to the ſouth. Chancery-lane gapes on the ſame ſide, to receive the numberleſs malheureuſes, who plunge unwarily on the rocks and ſhelves with which it abounds. The antient ſeminary of the law,GRAY'S-INN. Gray's-Inn, ſtands on the north ſide. It was originally the reſidence of the lord Grays, from the year 1315, when John, the ſon of Reginold de Grey, reſided here, till the latter end of the reign of Henry VII. when it was ſold, by Edmund lord Grey of Wilton, to Hugh Dennys, eſq by the name of the manor of Portpole; and in eight years afterwards it was diſpoſed of to the prior and convent of Shene, who again diſpoſed of it to the ſtudents of the law. Not but that they were ſeated here much earlier, it appearing that they had leaſed a reſidence here from the lord Grays as early as the reign of Edward III. * It is a very extenſive building, and has large gardens belonging to it. Gray's-Inn-Lane is to the eaſt. I there obſerved, at a ſtone maſon's, a manufactory of ſtone coffins quite a l'antique, ſuch as we ſometimes dig up in conventual ruins, or old churches. I enquired whether they were deſigned for any particular perſons, but was told they were only for chance cuſtomers, who thought they ſhould lie ſecurer lodged in ſtone than in wood.

THE OLD TEMPLE.NEAR the entrance into Chancery-lane were the bars: adjacent ſtood the Old Temple, founded in 1118, the firſt ſeat of the knights templars, before they removed to the New Temple. About [167] the year 1595, one Agaſter Roper *, who was engaged in building on the ſpot, diſcovered ruins of the old church, which was of a circular form, and built of ſtone brought from Caen in Normandy.

A LITTLE beyond is Southampton-buildings, SOUTHAMPTON-HOUSE. built on the ſite of Southampton-houſe, the manſion of the Wriotheſleys earls of Southampton. The King's-head tavern, facing Holborn, is the only part which now remains: the chapel to the houſe is now rented by Mr. Lockyer Davies, as a magazine for books. Here ended his days Thomas, the laſt earl of that title, the faithful virtuous ſervant of Charles I. and lord treaſurer in the beginning of the reign of the ungrateful ſon. He died in 1667, barely in poſſeſſion of the white rod, which his profligate enemies were with difficulty diſſuaded from wreſting out of his dying hands. He had the happineſs of marrying his daughter and heireſs to a nobleman of congenial merit, the ill-fated lord Ruſſel. Her virtues underwent a fiery trial, and came out of the teſt, if poſſible, more pure. I cannot read of her laſt interviews with her devoted lord, without the ſtrongeſt emotions. Her greatneſs of mind appears to uncommon advantage. The laſt ſcene is beyond the power of either pen or pencil. In this houſe they lived many years. When his lordſhip paſſed by it in the way to execution, he felt a momentary bitterneſs of death in recollecting the happy moments of the place. He looked towards Southampton-houſe: the tear ſtarted into his eye, but he inſtantly wiped it away .

NOT far from hence, on the north ſide, in the ſtreet called [168] Brook-ſtreet, BROOK HOUSE. was Brook-houſe, the reſidence of Sir Fulke Grevill [...] lord Brook, the nobleman whoſe chief ambition was to be thought, as he cauſed to be expreſſed on his tomb at Warwick, the friend of Sir Philip Sydney. He was a man of abilities, and a particular patron of learned men; who repayed his bounty, by what coſt them little, numbers of flattering dedications. He died by the hand of Ralph Haywood, a gentleman who had paſſed moſt of his days in his lordſhip's ſervice. For ſome reaſon unknown, he had left him out of his will, and was weak enough to let him know of it. In September, 1628, Haywood entered into his lord's bedchamber, and, expoſtulating with great warmth on the uſage he met with, his lordſhip anſwering with aſperity, received from him a mortal wound with a ſword. The aſſaſſin retired into another room, in which he inſtantly deſtroyed himſelf with the ſame inſtrument. His lordſhip languiſhed a few days, and, after gratefully forming another codicil, to reward his ſurgeons and attendants for their care, died in his 75th year *.

FURNIVALS-INN.IN this neighborhood, on each ſide of Holborn, is a tremendous array of inns of courts. Next to Brook-ſtreet is Furnivals-Inn, in old times the town abode of the lord Furnivals, extinct in the male line in the 6th of Richard II. Thavies-Inn is another,THAVIES INN. old as the time of Edward III. It took its name from John Tavye; who directed, that, after the deceaſe of his wife Alice, his eſtates, and the Hoſpicium in quo apprentici ad legem habitare ſolebant, ſhould be ſold in order to maintain a chaplain, who was to pray for his ſoul and that of his ſpouſe. The original uſe of this inn continues to this day.

[169]A THIRD is Staples-Inn, STAPLES-INN. ſo called from its being a ſtaple in which the wool merchants were uſed to aſſemble: but it had given place to ſtudents in law, poſſibly before the reign of Henry V. And a fourth is Barnard [...]s-Inn, originally Mackworth's-Inn, BARNARD'S-INN. having been given by the executors of John Mackworth, dean of Lincoln, to the dean and chapter of Lincoln, on condition that they ſhould find a pious prieſt to perform divine ſervice in the cathedral of Lincoln, in which John Mackworth lies interred. As to Scroop's-Inn, it was an inn for ſerjeants at the law, in the time of Richard II.; it took its name from having once been the town-houſe of one of the lord Scroops, of Bolton. It is now an extinct vulcano, and the crater uſed as a quiet court, bearing its antient name.

HATTON-STREET, the late Hatton-garden, HATTON-GARDEN. ſucceeded to the town-houſe and gardens of the lord Hattons, founded by Sir Chriſtoper Hatton, lord keeper in the reign of queen Elizabeth. He firſt attracted the royal notice by his fine perſon, and fine dancing; but his intellectual accompliſhments were far from ſuperficial. He diſcharged his great office with applauſe; but, diſtruſting his legal abilities, never acted without the aſſiſtance of two able lawyers. The place he built his houſe on, was the orchard and garden belonging to Ely-houſe. By his intereſt with the queen he extorted it from the biſhop, Richard Cox, who for a long time reſiſted the ſacrilege. Here he died, and was interred in the cathedral of St. Paul's.

THIS palace was long before diſtinguiſhed by the death of a much greater man; for, at this houſe of the biſhop of Ely, ſay hiſtorians, John duke of Lancaſter, otherwiſe John of Gaunt, in 1398, breathed his laſt, after (according to Shakeſpeare) giving his dying fruitleſs admonition to his diſſipated nephew Richard II.

[170] ELY-HOUSE.ADJACENT ſtood, in my memory, Ely-houſe, the reſidence of the biſhops of Ely. John de Kirkby, who died biſhop of Ely, in 1290, laid the foundation of this palace, by bequeathing ſeveral meſſuages in this place; others were purchaſed by his ſucceſſor William de Luda; at length the whole, conſiſted of twenty, ſome ſay forty acres, was incloſed in a wall. Holinſhed has recorded the excellency of the ſtrawberries cultivated in the garden by biſhop Morton. He informs us that Richard duke of Gloceſter (afterwards Richard III.) at the council held in the Tower, on the morning he put Haſtings to death, requeſted a diſh of them from the biſhop. Mr. Groſe has given us two repreſentations of the buildings and chapel. Here was a moſt venerable hall, ſeventy-four feet long, lighted with ſix gothic windows; and all the furniture ſuited the hoſpitality of the times: this room the ſerjeants at law frequently borrowed to hold their feaſts in, on account of its ſize.GREAT FEASTS HELD HERE. In the year 1531, eleven gentlemen, who had juſt been honored with the coif, gave a grand feaſt here five days ſucceſſively. On the firſt, the king and his queen, Catherine of Arragon, graced them with their preſence. For quantity of proviſions it reſembled a coronation feaſt: the minutiae are not given; but the following particular of part will ſuffice * to ſhew its greatneſs, as well as the wonderful ſcarcity of money in thoſe days, evinced by the ſmallneſs of the prices compared to thoſe of the preſent days:

 £.s.d.
Brought to the ſlaughter-houſe 24 beeves, each168
One carcaſe of an oxe from the ſhambles14
One hundred fat muttons, each210
Fifty-one great veales, at48
Thirty-four porkes, at33
Ninety-one pigs, at6
Capons of Greece, of one poulter (for he had three) ten dozens, at (apiece)18
Capons of Kent, nine dozen and ſix, at1
Cocks of groſe, ſeaven dozen and nine, at8
Cocks courſe xiii dozen, at 8 d. and 3 d. apiece   
Pullets, the beſt 2 [...]/2 d. each. Other pullets2
Pigeons 37 dozen, each dozen2
Swans xiii dozen   
Larkes 340 dozen, each dozen5

THE chapel (which was dedicated to St. Etheldreda, CHAPEL. foundreſs of the monaſtery at Ely) has at the eaſt end a very handſome gothic window, which looks into a neat court, lately built, called Ely-place. Beneath is a crypt of the length of the chapel. The cloiſters formed a ſquare on the ſouth ſide.

THE ſeveral buildings belonging to this palace falling into ruin, it was thought proper to enable, by act of parlement, in 1772, the biſhop to alienate the whole. It was accordingly ſold to the crown, for the ſum of ſix thouſand five hundred pounds, together with an annuity of two hundred pounds a year, to be payed to the biſhop and his ſucceſſors for ever. Out of the firſt, five thouſand ſix hundred was applied towards the purchaſe of Albemarle-houſe, in Dover-ſtreet, with other meſſuages and gardens. The remainder, together with three thouſand pounds paid as dilapidations by the executors of biſhop Mawſon, was applied [172] towards building the handſome houſe at preſent occupied, in Dover-ſtreet, by my reſpected friend the preſent prelate. This was named Ely-houſe, and is ſettled on the biſhops of Ely for ever. It was the fortune of that munificent prelate Edmund Keene, to rebuild or repair more eccleſiaſtical houſes than any churchman of modern days. He beſtowed moſt conſiderable repairs on the parſonage-houſe of Stanhope, in the biſhoprick of Durham. He wholly rebuilt the palace at Cheſter. He reſtored almoſt from rain that at Ely; and, finally, Ely-houſe was built under his inſpection.

TO revert to antient times. John duke of Lancaſter, ſtyled uſually John of Gaunt, reſided in this palace, and died here in 1399: poſſibly it was lent to him, during the long poſſeſſion that biſhop Fordham had of the ſee, after the duke's own palace, the Savoy, was burnt by the inſurgents.

ST. ANDREW's HOLBORN.FROM hence is a ſteep deſcent down Holborn-hill. On the ſouth ſide is St. Andrew's church, of conſiderable antiquity, but rebuilt in the laſt century in a plain neat manner. Here was buried Thomas Wriotheſley, lord chancellor in the latter part of the life of Henry VIII; a fiery zealot, who, not content with ſeeing the amiable innocent Anne Aſkew put to the torture, for no other crime than difference of faith, flung off his gown, degraded the chancellor into the Bourreau, and with his own hands gave force to the rack *. He was created earl of Southampton, juſt before the coronation of Edward VI; but, obſtinately adhering to the old religion, he was diſmiſſed from his poſt, and confined to Southampton-houſe,, where he died in 1550.

[173]THE well-known party tool Doctor Sacheverel was rector of this church. He had the chance of meeting in his pariſh a perſon as turbulent as himſelf, the noted Mr. Whiſton: that ſingular character took it into his head to diſturb the doctor while he was in his pulpit, venting ſome doctrine contrary to the opinion of that heterodox man. The doctor in great wrath deſcended from on high, and fairly turned wicked Will. Whiſton into the ſtreet.

IN aſcending to Weſt Smithfield, Cock-lane is left to the right;COCK-LANE GHOST. a ridiculous ſcene of impoſture, in the affair of the Cock-lane ghoſt, which was to detect the murderer of the body it lately inhabited, by its appearance in the vault of St. John's church, Clerkenwell. The credulity of the Engliſh nation was moſt fully diſplayed, by the great concourſe of people of all ranks, to hear the converſation held by one of the cheats with the ghoſt. It ended in full detection and exemplary puniſhment of the ſeveral perſons concerned in the villainy.

SMITHFIELD is celebrated on ſeveral accounts: at preſent,SMITHFIELD. and long ſince, for being the great market for cattle of all kinds.BARTHOLOMEW-FAIR. For being the place where Bartholomew-fair was kept; which was granted, during three days annually, by Henry II. to the neighboring priory. It was long a ſeaſon of great feſtivity; theatrical performances by the better actors were exhibited here, and it was frequented by a great deal of good company; but, becoming the reſort of the debauched of all denominations, certain regulations took place, which in later days have ſpoiled the mirth, but produced the deſired decency. The humours of this place will never be loſt, as long as the inimitable print of Bartholomew-fair, of our Hogarth, ſhall exiſt.

[174] PLACE FOR TOURNAMENTS;FOR a long ſeries of reigns, Smithfield was the field of gallant tilts and tournaments: and alſo the ſpot on which accuſations were decided by duel, derived from the Kamp-fight ordeal of the Saxons. Here, in 1374, the doating hero Edward III. in his ſixty-ſecond year, infatuated by the charms of Alice Pierce, placed her by his ſide in a magnificent car, and, ſtyling her the Lady of the Sun, conducted her to the lifts, followed by a train of knights, each leading by the bridle a beautiful palfrey, mounted by a gay damſel: and for ſeven days together exhibited the moſt ſplendid juſts in indulgence of his diſgraceful paſſion.

HIS grandſon, Richard II. in the ſame place held a tournament equally magnificent. ‘There iſſued out of the Towre of London, ſays the admiring Froiſſart, "fyrſt threeſcore courſers apparelled for the juſtes, and on every one a ſquyer of honour riding a ſoft paſe. Than iſſued out threeſcore ladyes of honoure mounted on fayre palfreyes, and every lady led a knight by a cheyne of ſylver, which knights were apparelled to juſt.’ I refer to my author * for the reſt of the relation of this ſplendid ſpectacle; certainly there was a magnificence and ſpirit of gallantry in the diſſipation of thoſe early times, which cheriſhed a warlike and generous ſpirit in the nobility and gentry of the land. Something like is now ariſing, in the brilliant ſocieties of archers in moſt parts of Britain, which, it is to be hoped, will at leſt ſhare the hours conſumed in the enervated pleaſures of muſic; or the dangerous waſte of time in the hours dedicated to cards.

FOR TRIALS BY DUEL;I WILL not treſpaſs on my readers patience any more on this ſubject, than juſt to mention one inſtance of duel. It was when [175] the unfortunate Armourer entered into the liſts, on account of a falſe accuſation of treaſon, brought againſt him by his apprentice, in the reign of Henry VI. The friends of the defendant had ſo plied him with liquor, that he fell an eaſy conqueſt to his accuſer. Shakeſpear has worked this piece of hiſtory into a ſcene, in the ſecond part of Henry VI. but has made the poor Armourer confeſs his treaſons in his dying moments: for in the time in which this cuſtom prevaled, it never was even ſuſpected but that guilt muſt have been the portion of the vanquiſhed. Let me add, that when people of rank fought with ſword and lance, Plebeian combatants were only allowed a pole, armed with a heavy ſand-bag, with which they were to decide their guilt or innocence.

IN Smithfield was alſo held our Autos de Fè; but,FOR EXECUTIONS. to the credit of our Engliſh monarchs, none were ever known to attend the ceremony. Even Philip II. of Spain never honored any, of the many which were celebrated by permiſſion of his gentle queen, with his preſence, notwithſtanding he could behold the roaſting of his own ſubjects with infinite ſelf-applauſe, and ſang-froid. The ſtone marks the ſpot, in this area, on which thoſe cruel exhibitions were executed. Here our martyr Latimer preached patience to friar Foreſt, agonizing under the torture of a ſlow fire, for denying the king's ſupremacy: and to this place our martyr Cranmer compelled the amiable Edward, by forcing his reluctant hand to the warrant, to ſend Joan Bocher, a ſilly woman, to the ſtake. Yet Latimer never thought of his own conduct in his laſt moments; nor did Cranmer thruſt his hand into the fire for a real crime, but for one which was venial through the frailty of human nature.

THE laſt perſon who ſuffered at the ſtake in England was Bartholomew Legatt, who was burnt here in 1611, as a blaſphemous [176] heretic, according to the ſentence pronounced by John King, biſhop of London. The biſhop conſigned him to the ſecular arm of our monarch James, who took care to give to the ſentence full effect *.—This place, as well as Tyburn, was called The Elms, and uſed for the execution of malefactors even before the year 1219.—In the year 1530, there was a moſt ſevere and ſingular puniſhment inflicted here on one John Rooſe, a cook, who had poiſoned ſeventeen perſons of the biſhop of Rocheſter's family, two of whom died. By a retroſpective law, he was ſentenced to be boiled to death, which was done accordingly.—In 1541, Marg [...]ret Davie, a young woman, ſuffered in the ſame place and manner, for the ſame ſpecies of crime.—In Smithfield the archrebel Wat Tyler met with, in 1381, the reward of his treaſon and inſolence. The youthful king, no longer able to bear his brutality, ordered him to be arreſted; when the gallant Walworth, lord mayor of London, ſtruck him off his horſe, and the attendants of the monarch quickly put him to death.

I CANNOT help indulging myſelf with the mention of William Pennant, an honeſt goldſmith, my great great great great great great uncle, who, at his houſe, the Queen's-head in Smithfield, acquired a conſiderable fortune in the latter end of the reign of Elizabeth, and the beginning of that of James I. It appears by his will, dated May 4th 1607, that he was employed by the court, for numbers of his legacies were to the royal ſervants. His legacy to Sir William Forteſcue, knight, his wife's brother, has now a ſingular appearance:—one chain of gold and pearle, weighing about 12 ounces and a quarter; one billament of gold and [177] pearl, being 19 pieces; a round ſalt of ſilver and a cover thereto, weighing 15 ounces and ſomewhat more; ſix white ſilver ſpoons; one feather bed, bolſter, two pillows, two blankets, one blue rug; a teſtearn of ſatten, figured ruſſet and black, and vallance to the ſame; 5 curtains of taffety ſarcenet; one chair, and a ſtool with a back of ſatten figured ruſſet; ten black, and ſix ſtools covered with black wrought velvet; and alſo a great cheſt covered with black leather, with an in-lock and all things in it, excepting certain plate hereafter bequeathed. He left to his nephew Hugh Pennant, of Bychton, Flintſhire, the manor of Moxhall, in Eſſex, with a conſiderable eſtate; but the fruits of the labors of this induſtrious tradeſman, were all diſſipated by a gentleman of the family, who fortunately quitted this life before he had waſted our paternal acres. But the charities of William Pennant, to the poor of Whiteford, Flintſhire, are more permanent: for to this day they completely cloath twenty poor people; and in a few years more the truſtees of the bequeathed lands flatter themſelves with the hopes of doubling the number.

WE now reach a great extent of holy ground, conſecrated for the purpoſes of monaſtic life, or for the humane purpoſe of affording relief to our diſtreſſed brethren, in their paſſage through this world. I have not in view a conventual hiſtory of London: but only mean to give a brief account of thoſe foundations which have a clame to pre-eminence. The church of St. Bartholomew the Greater is a ſmall diſtance from Smithfield; CHURCH OF ST. BARTHOLOMEW. it is only the choir of the antient building, and the center on which ſtood the great tower. In the choir are the remains of the old architecture; maſſy columns, and round arches: part of the cloiſters are ſtill preſerved in a neighboring ſtable, and conſiſts of eight arches. [178] Adjacent is part of the ſouth tranſept, now converted into a ſmall burying-ground.PRIORY OF ST. BARTHOLOMEW. This was a conventual church, belonging to a priory of Black Canons, founded in 1102, by one Rahere, minſtrel or jeſter to Henry I; who, quitting his profligate life, became the firſt prior of his own foundation. Legend relates, that he had a moſt horrible dream, out of which he was relieved by St. Bartholomew himſelf, who directed him to found the houſe, and to dedicate it to him. Rahere has here a handſome monument, beneath an arch divided by elegant tabernacle-work. His figure is recumbent, with an angel at his feet, and a canon in a great hood kneeling on each ſide, as if praying over him. It was afterwards repaired by William Bolton, the laſt prior. At the diſſolution its revenues, according to Dugdale, were £. 653.15s. It was granted by Henry to Sir Richard Rich. Queen Mary re-peopled it with Black, or Preaching Friars; but on the acceſſion of Elizabeth, they were turned out. Rich, who was made lord chancellor in the reign of Edward VI. made it his place of reſidence; as did Sir Walter Mildmay, chancellor of the exchequer to queen Elizabeth.

ST. BARTHOLOMEW's HOSPITAL.ST. BARTHOLOMEW's hoſpital will ever be a monument of the piety of Rahere; for from him it took its origin. On a waſte ſpot, he obtained a grant of a piece of ground from his maſter, and built on it an hoſpital for a maſter, brethren, and ſiſters; and for the entertainment of poor diſeaſed people, till they got well; of diſtreſſed women big with child, till they were delivered, and were able to go abroad; and for the ſupport of all ſuch children whoſe mothers died in the houſe, till they attained the age of ſeven years. It was given to the neighboring priory, who had the care of it. Its revenues at the diſſolution [179] were £. 305, according to Dugdale. The good works of Rahere live to this day. The foundation was continued through every reign. The preſent handſome building, which ſurrounds a ſquare, was begun in 1729. The extent of the charity is ſhewn, by ſaying, that in the laſt year there were under the care of the hoſpital three thouſand ſeven hundred and fifty in-patients; and eight thouſand one hundred and twenty three out patients.

THE great ſtaircaſe is admirably painted by Hogarth, at his own expence. The ſubjects are, the good Samaritan, and the pool of Betheſda. In another part is Rahere laying the foundation ſtone; a ſick man carried on a bier attended by monks. The hall is at the head of the ſtaircaſe, a very large room, ornamented with a full-length of Henry VIII. who had good reaſon to be complimented, as he preſented this houſe to the citizens. Doctor Ratcliff is alſo here at full-length. He left five hundred pounds a year to this hoſpital, for the improvement of the diet; and one hundred a year for buying of linen. Happy had it been had all his wealth been ſo directed, inſtead of waſting it on that vain mauſoleum, his library at Oxford. The patron ſaint has over the chimney-piece his portrait, but not in the offenſive circumſtances which Spagnolet would have placed it in; for he is cloathed, and has only the knife, the ſymbol of his martyrdom, in his hand. In the windows is painted Henry VIII. delivering the charter to the lord mayor; by him is prince Arthur, and two noblemen with white rods.

AT no great diſtance from this hoſpital ſtands (within the walls of the city) that of Chriſt-church; CHRIST-CHURCH HOSPITAL, a royal foundation for orphans and poor children, who are taken care of, and apprenticed,ONCE THE GREY FRIARS. at different ages, to proper trades. It was originally the houſe of the [180] Grey Friars, or Mendicants, of the order of St. Francis, founded by John Ewin, ITS FINE CHURCH. mercer, about the year 1225. The church was reckoned one of the moſt ſuperb of the conventual: and roſe by the contributions of the opulent devout. Margaret, daughter of Philip the Hardy, and ſecond queen to Edward I. in 1306 began the choir. Iſabella, queen to Edward II. gave threeſcore and ten pounds; and queen Philippa, wife of Edward III. gave threeſcore and two pounds, towards the building. John de Bretagne, duke of Richmond, built the body of the church, at a vaſt expence: and Gilbert de C [...]are, earl of Glouceſter, gave twenty great beams out of his foreſt at Tunbridge. No order of monks ſeem to have the powers of perſuaſion equal to theſe poor friars. They raiſed vaſt ſums for their buildings among the rich: and few of their admirers, when they came to die, who did not conſole themſelves with the thought of lying within their expiating walls; and if they were particularly wicked, thought themſelves ſecure againſt the aſſault of the devil, if their corpſe was wrapped in the habit and cowl of a friar.

PERSONAGES INTERRED HERE.MULTITUDES therefore of all ranks were crowded in this holy ground. It boaſts of receiving four queens; Margaret, and Iſabella, FOUR QUEENS. above mentioned; Joan, daughter to Edward II. and wife of Edward Bruce, king of Scotland; and, to make the fourth, Iſabella wife of William Warren, titular queen of Man, is named. Of theſe, Iſabella, whom GRAY ſo ſtrongly ſtigmatizes,

She-wolf of France, with unrelenting fangs,
That tear'ſt the bowels of thy mangled mate,

I hope was wrapped in the friars garment, for few ſtood more in need of a daemonifuge. With wonderful hypocriſy, [181] ſhe was buried with the heart of her murdered huſband on her breaſt *.

HERE alſo reſt Beatrix, daughter of Henry III. and dutcheſs of Bretagny. Iſabella, daughter of Edward III. and wife of Ingelram de Courcy, created earl of Bedford. John Haſtings earl of Pembroke, ſlain in Woodſtoke-park, at a Chriſtmas feſtivity, in 1389. He was then very young, and, being deſirous of inſtruction in feats of chivalry, ran againſt a ſtout knight of the name of John Saint John: but it remains uncertain whether his death was the reſult of deſign or accident .

John Duc de Bourbon, one of the noble priſoners taken at the battle of Azincourt, after eighteen years impriſonment, in 1443 here found a tomb. Walter Blunt lord Mountjoy, lord treaſurer of England in the time of Edward IV, and many other illuſtrious perſons, were depoſited here.

AMONG the unfortunate who fell victims to the executioner, in the wretched times of too many of our monarchs, as often unjuſtly as otherwiſe, were the following. I do not reckon, in the liſt of the firſt, the ambitious profligate Roger Mortimer, paramour of Iſabella, wife to the unhappy Edward of Caernarvon. He was ſurprized with the queen in Nottingham caſtle. In vain did ſhe cry, Bel fitz, bel fitz, ayez pitie du gentile Mortimer. He was hurried to London, and, after a ſummary hearing, dragged to Tyburn, where he hung like a common malefactor two days upon the gallows.

SIR Robert Treſilian, chief juſtice of England; and Sir Nicholas [182] Brembre, the ſtout mayor of London, ſuffered the ſame ignominous death in the next reign. The firſt, as a warning to all judges for too great a complaiſance to the pleaſure of the court; Sir Nicholas, for his attachment to his royal maſter. Treſilian fell lamented: eſpecially as the proceedings were hurried in a tumultuary manner, and more indicative of revenge than juſtice. Superſtition records, that when he came to Tyburn, he declared that he ſhould not die while he had any thing about him; and that the executioner, on ſtripping him, found certain images, the head of a devil, and the names of divers others *. The charm was broken, and the judge died.

HERE, in 1423, were interred the mangled remains of Sir John Mortimer, knight, a victim to the jealouſy of the houſe of Lancaſter againſt that of York. He was put to death on a fictitious charge, by an ex poſt facto law, called the Statute of Eſcapes, made on purpoſe to deſtroy him: he was drawn to Tyburn, and underwent the rigorous penalty of treaſon . Thus was Henry VI. ſtained with blood even in his infancy, and began a bloody reign with ſlaughter, continued to the end of his life, by ambition and cruelty not his own.

IN the ſame ground lies another guiltleſs ſacrifice, Thomas Burdet, eſq anceſtor of the preſent Sir Robert Burdet. He had a white buck, which he was particularly fond of; this the king, Edward IV. happened to kill. Burdet, in anger, wiſhed the horns in the perſon's body who had adviſed the king to it. For [183] this he was tried, as wiſhing evil to his ſovereign, and for this only loſt his head *.

TO cloſe the liſt, in 1523, a murdreſs, a lady Alice Hungerford, obtained the favor of lying here. She had killed her huſband; for which ſhe was led from the Tower to Holborn, there put into a cart with one of her ſervants, and thence carried to Tyburn and executed .

THE library founded here in 1429,LIBRARY. by the munificent Whittington, muſt not be forgotten. It was a hundred and twenty-nine feet long; thirty-one broad: it was cieled with wainſcot, had twenty-eight deſks, and eight double ſettles of wainſcot. In three years it was filled with books, to the value of five hundred and fifty-ſix pounds: of which Sir Richard contributed four hundred pounds; and Doctor Thomas Winchelſey, a friar, ſupplied the reſt. This about thirty years before the invention of printing.

ON the diſſolution, this fine church, after being ſpoiled of its ornaments for the king's uſe, was made a ſtorehouſe for French prizes, and the monuments either ſold or mutilated. Henry, juſt before his death, touched with remorſe, granted the convent and church to the city, and cauſed the church to be opened for divine ſervice. It was burnt in 1666, and rebuilt by Sir Chriſtopher Wren, at a ſmall diſtance from its former ſite. I muſt mention, that with the old church was deſtroyed the tomb of lady Veneti [...] Digby .

THE buildings belonging to the friars were by Edward VI. [184] applied to this uſeful charity: that amiable young prince had not any reaſon to be ſtimulated to good actions: but it is certain that, after a ſermon of exhortation, preached before him by Ridley, biſhop of London, he founded three great hoſpitals in this city, judiciouſly adapted to the neceſſities of the poor, divided into three claſſes: the hoſpital of St. Thomas, Southwark, for the ſick or wounded poor; this for the orphan; and that of Bridewell for the thriftleſs. Charles II. founded alſo here a mathematical ſchool for the inſtruction of forty boys, and training them up for the ſea. Many able mathematicians and ſeamen have ſprung from this inſtitution. In the laſt year, a hundred and ſixty-eight were apprenticed out; of which nine were from the laſt-mentioned inſtitution. The governors have a ſeminary to this hoſpital at Hertford. At London and at Hertford are nine hundred and eighty-two children.

PART of the old buildings and cloiſter are yet remaining; but the greater part was rebuilt in the laſt century, under the direction of Sir Chriſtopher Wren. The writing ſchool was founded in 1694, by Sir John Moor, alderman, who is honored with a ſtatue in front of the building.

GREAT HALL.IN the great hall is a fine picture of Charles II. in his robes, with a great flowing black wig. At a diſtance is a ſea view with ſhipping: and about him a globe, ſphere, teleſcope, &c. It was painted by Lely, in 1662.

HERE is the longeſt picture I ever ſaw. King James II. amidſt his courtiers, receiving the preſident of this hoſpital, ſeveral of the governors, and numbers of the children, all kneeling; one of the governors with a grey head, and ſome of the heads of the children, are admirably painted. Chancellor Jefferies is ſtanding by the [185] king. This was painted by Verrio, who has placed himſelf in the piece, in a long wig.

THE founder is repreſented in another picture ſitting, and giving the charter to the governors, who are in their red gowns kneeling; the boys and girls are ranged in two rows; a biſhop, poſſibly Ridley, is in the piece. If this was the work of Holbein, it has certainly been much injured by repair.

IN the court-room is a three-quarters length of Edward, a moſt beautiful portrait, indiſputably by the hand of that great painter. The figure is moſt richly dreſſed, with one of his hands upon a dagger.

IN this room are the portraits of two perſons of uncommon merit. The firſt is of Sir Wolſtan Dixie, lord mayor in 1585. He is repr [...]nted in a red gown furred, a rich chain, and with a rough beard. The date on his portrait is 1593. He was deſcended from Wolſtan Dixie, who was ſeated at Catworth, in Huntingdonſhire, about the reign of Edward III. Sir Wolſtan was the founder of the family of baronets, ſettled at Market-Boſworth, in Leiceſterſhire, which was beſtowed by him on his great nephew in the reign of queen Elizabeth *. Sir Wolſtan was diſtinguiſhed by the magnificent pageantry of his mayor's day; and by the poetical incenſe beſtowed on the occaſion by George Peele, A. M. of Chriſt-church College, Oxford: who, among other things, wrote the life of our laſt prince Llewelyn, the loves of king David and the fair Bathſheba, and the tragedy of Abſalom . But Sir Wolſtan immortalized himſelf by his good deeds, and the greatneſs of his [186] charities. At Boſworth he founded a free-ſchool; every priſon in the capital felt his bounty; he portioned poor maidens in marriage; contributed largely to build a peſt-houſe; eſtabliſhed two fellowſhips in Emanuel College, Cambridge, and two ſcholarſhips; and left to this hoſpital an annual endowment of forty-two pounds for ever.

BUT a lady, dame Mary Ramſay, wife of Sir Thomas Ramſay, lord mayor in 1577, greatly ſurpaſſed Sir Wolſtan in her charitable deeds. By the gift of twenty pounds a year, to be annually paid to the maſter and uſher of the ſchool belonging to this hoſpital; and alſo to the hoſpital the reverſion of a hundred and twenty pounds annually. She was complimented with having her picture placed in this room. She is dreſſed in a red-bodied gown and petticoat. She augmented fellowſhips and ſcholarſhips; cloathed ten maimed ſoldiers, at the expence of twenty pounds annually; ſhe did not forget the priſoners in the ſeveral gaols; ſhe gave the ſum of twelve hundred pounds to five of the companies, to be lent to young tradeſmen for four years; ſhe gave to Briſtol a thouſand pounds, to be laid out in an hoſpital; ſhe married and portioned poor virgins; and, beſides other charities I omit, left three thouſand pounds to good and pious uſes. This excellent woman died about the year 1596, and was interred in the church of St. Mary Woolnoth *.

CHARTER-HOUSE-SQUARE.IN this ſquare, at the time called the Charter-houſe Yard, was a town-houſe belonging to the earls of Rutland, which, in the year 1656, was converted into an opera-houſe, over which Sir William [187] d' Avenant preſided *; for in thoſe times of hypocriſy, tragedies and comedies were not permitted.

THE Charter-houſe is the next object of attention.CHARTER-HOUSE. This had been a houſe of Carthuſians (from which the name is corrupted) founded by Sir Walter de Manni, a moſt ſucceſsful commander in the French wars, under Edward III. He had purchaſed, in the year 1349, a piece of ground conſiſting of thirteen acres, for the purpoſe of interring the dead, at a time in which a dreadful peſtilence raged. Not fewer than fifty thouſand people were buried in it, during the time of this dreadful calamity; which ſhews how very populous London muſt have been at that period. In the preceding year Ralph Sratford, biſhop of London, had bought another piece of land, adjoining to this, which he incloſed with a brick wall, built on it a chapel, and applied to the ſame uſe, under the name of Pardon Church-yard. Here alſo were buried ſuicides, and ſuch who had been executed. They were brought here in what was called the Friars cart, which was tilted, and covered over with black: in it was a pendent bell, ſo that notice was given, as it paſſed along, of the ſad burden it was carrying .

SIR WALTER firſt intended to found here a college for a warden, dean, and twelve ſecular prieſts; but, changing his deſign, he, in conjunction with Northburgh, biſhop of London, founded a priory for twenty-four monks, of the rigid order of Carthuſians, which was finiſhed in 1370 . The laſt prior but one, John Howghton, ſubſcribed to the king's ſupremacy in 1534; yet, was [188] executed ſoon after, for his oppoſition to the royal will. Three years after that there was a ſecond ſubſcription, in which William Trafford, the laſt prior, and two and twenty of his houſe, ſubſcribed to the king's ſupremacy *. At the diſſolution its revenues were reckoned, according to Dugdale, at £ 642 a year. It was firſt granted, in 1542, to John Bridges and Thomas Hall, for their joint lives; and in April 1555, to Sir Edward North, who ſold it to Thomas duke of Norfolk, for twenty-five hundred pounds; and his ſon the earl of Suffolk, the rapacious treaſurer, alienated it to Thomas Sutton, eſq for thirteen thouſand pounds.

MR. SUTTON's FOUNDATION.THAT gentleman made a moſt dignified uſe of his purchaſe. In the time of James I. he converted it into a moſt magnificent hoſpital, conſiſting of a maſter, a preacher, a head ſchool-maſter, and ſecond maſter, with forty-four boys, eighty decayed gentlemen, who had been ſoldiers or merchants, beſides phyſician, ſurgeons, regiſter, and other officers and ſervants of the houſe. Each decayed gentleman has fourteen pounds a year, a gown, meat, fire, and lodgings: and one of them may, if he chuſes, attend the manciple to market, to ſee that he buys good proviſions. This is the greateſt gift in England, either in proteſtant or catholic times, ever beſtowed by a ſingle man, till we come to the time of the foundation of Guy's Hoſpital, in Southwark.

THERE is ſcarcely any veſtige of the conventual building, which is ſaid to have ſtood in the preſent garden. The preſent extenſive houſe was the work of the duke of Norfolk. It was inhabited by the noble purchaſer: the laſt time, it was made his eaſy priſon; for, having been committed to the Tower in 1569, [189] he was permitted to return to his own houſe, under the cuſtody of Sir Henry Nevil, the plague at that time raging within the Tower liberties. But ſoon relapſing into his romantic deſign of a marriage with the unhappy Mary Stuart, he was here ſeized, and conveyed to his former place of confinement. In the great hall are the Howard arms, and the date 1571; the very year of his final impriſonment.

HIS grandſon, lord Thomas Howard, was in poſſeſſion of this houſe at the acceſſion of James I. This monarch, to ſhew his reſpect for a family which had ſo ſeverely ſuffered in the cauſe of his mother, made his firſt viſit, on entering his new capital, on May 7th 1604, to this nobleman. His majeſty and his train were moſt ſplendidly entertained here four whole days *; at his departure, he was as profuſe of his honors as he had been at Theobalds juſt before, for he dubbed here not fewer than fourſcore knights.

IN one of the great apartments is a very good half-length of Mr. Sutton, in a black gown furred, and with a white beard. He himſelf intended to have filled the poſt of maſter; but being ſeized with his laſt illneſs, by deed nominated the Reverend John Hutton to the office. He died December 12th, 1611, aged 79: his body was embalmed, kept in his own houſe till May 1612, when it was depoſited with great pomp in Chriſt-church; from whence, in 1614 (the chapel in his hoſpital being by that time finiſhed) it was carried on the ſhoulders of the poor into the vault prepared for its reception. His figure, in a gown, lies recumbent on the tomb: on each ſide is a man in armour ſtanding upright; and [190] above a preacher addreſſing a full congregation. This was the work of Nicholas Stone, who (including a little monument to Mr. Law, one of Mr. Sutton's executors) had four hundred pounds for his performance *.

GEORGE VILLIERS, the ſecond of that name, duke of Buckingham, full-length, in a long wig, and robes of the garter.

THE earl of Shaftſbury, in his chancellor's robes, ſitting.

CHARLES TALBOT, firſt earl, and afterwards duke of Shrewſbury, a full-length, in robes of the garter, with a white rod, as lord treaſurer, in 1714, delivered to him by the queen, with her dying hand. A nobleman of fine abilities, and fine addreſs, wavering and unſettled: a ſtrong revolutioniſt; yet, in a little time, ſeduced into a plan of dethroning the very prince whom he had invited over. He died neglected by all parties; permanent only in the proteſtant religion, to which he was an early convert by the arguments of our great Tillotſon. He died in February 1718, giving, almoſt with his laſt breath, aſſurance of his adherence to the church of England.

THE duke of Monmouth, in a long black wig, dreſſed, if I remember right, like the former.

THE munificent Sheldon, archbiſhop of Canterbury, is repreſented here, ſitting. He did honor to his promotion by his patron Charles II. whom he attended in his exile. He was equally conſpicuous for his charity and his piety. He expended above ſixty-ſix thouſand pounds in public and private benefactions, in relieving the miſerable diſtreſſed in the time of the peſtilence, and in redeeming Chriſtian ſlaves. His theatre at Oxford is a magnificent [191] proof of his reſpect to the univerſity in which he had moſt honorably preſided, as warden of the College of All Souls.

HERE is a three-quarters piece of Doctor Thomas Burnet, maſter of this houſe, highly celebrated for his learning, and equally ſo for the ſpirit with which he reſiſted the obtruſion of a Roman catholic into the office by James II. He was the author of the famous Sacred Theory of the Earth, a beautiful and eloquent philoſophical romance: and of the Archaelogia Philoſophica. This laſt ſubjected him to ſuch cenſure, for the ſceptical opinions it contained, as to prevent his farther preferment. He died in 1715. He is repreſented as a thin man, of a good countenance, in a black gown, and ſhort hair.

THE hero William earl Craven is the laſt; a full-length, in armour, with a truncheon; and a diſtant view of a camp.

THESE noblemen had all been governors of this great charity.

IMMEDIATELY beyond the Charter-houſe, PRIORY OF ST. JOHN OF JERUSALEM. ſtood the priory of St. John of Jeruſalem, of the warlike order of the knights hoſpitalers. After the taking of Jeruſalem from the Saracens, there was a vaſt concourſe of pilgrims to the holy ſepulchre. A pious man of the name of Gerardus, aſſociating with other perſons of his religious turn, aſſumed a black garment, with a white croſs on it, with eight ſpikes; and undertook the care of an hoſpital, before founded at Jeruſalem, for the uſe of the pilgrims; and alſo to protect them from inſults on the road, either in coming or returning. Godfrey of Bologne firſt inſtituted the order; and, in reward of the valour of Gerardus, at the battle of Aſcalon, endowed the knights with great eſtates, to enable them to ſupport the end of their order: the kings of France were the ſovereigns. After the loſs of Jeruſalem, they retired from place to place; but, [191] [...] [192] having taken Rhodes, fixed there, and were then ſtyled knights of Rhodes. But, in 1522, on the loſs of that iſland, they retreated to Malta, and were afterwards known by the name of knights of Malta. The order, before the ſeparation of England from the church of Rome, conſiſted of eight nations. The world is filled with their prodigious valour.

JORDAN BRISET, and M [...]riel his wife, perſons of rank, founded this houſe in the year 1100, and it received conſecration from Heraclius, patriarch of Jeruſalem. This order at firſt ſtyled itſelf ſervant to the poor ſervants of the hoſpital at Jeruſalem; but their vaſt endowments infected them with an uncommon degree of pride. The whole order had, in different parts of Chriſtendom, nineteen thouſand manors. In 1323, the revenues of the Engliſh knights templars were beſtowed on them. This gave them ſuch importance, that the prior was ranked as firſt baron of England, and lived in the higheſt ſtate. Their luxury gave offence to the rebels of Kent and Eſſex, in 1381. Theſe levellers burnt their houſe to the ground; but it ſoon roſe with double ſplendor. The firſt prior was Garnerius de Neapoli; the laſt, Sir William Weſton, who, on the ſuppreſſion by Henry VIII. had a penſion of a thouſand a year; but died on Aſcenſion-day, 1540, the very day that the houſe was ſuppreſſed *, entirely of a broken heart. His monument is preſerved by a drawing in the collection of Doctor C [...]mbes. His figure lay recumbent, beneath rich gothic arches. It had a long beard, and is repreſented greatly emaciated. Its revenue at that time, according to Dugdale, was £. 2,385.12s. 8d.

Figure 4. St Iohns Gate 193

[193]THE houſe and church remained entire during the reign of Henry, ST. JAMES's CLERKENWELL. for he choſe to keep in them his tents and toils for the chace. In that of his ſon, the church, which for the beauty of its tower (which was graven, gilt, and enameled) was blown up with gunpowder, by order of the protector Somerſet, and the ſtones carried towards the building his palace in the Strand. In the next reign, apart of the choir which remained, and ſome ſide-chapels, were repaired by cardinal Pole, and Sir Thomas Treſham was appointed lord prior *: but the reſtoration was ſhort-lived, being again ſuppreſſed by Elizabeth.

THE buildings covered a great extent of ground: and are now occupied by St. John's-ſquare. The magnificent gateway ſtill remains; James I. made a grant of it to Sir Roger Wilbraham, who made it his habitation.

AYLESBURY-HOUSE and gardens were other parts of the poſſeſſions of thoſe knights. They were granted to the Bruces, earls of Ayleſbury; who made the houſe their reſidence. Earl Robert, deputy earl-marſhal, dates numbers of his letters, in 1671, from Ayleſbury-houſe, Clerkenwell. Ayleſbury-ſtreet now covers the ſite of the houſe and gardens.

THE ſame Jordan Briſet, BENEDICTINE NUNS. not ſatisfied with the former great endowment, gave to one Robert, a prieſt, fourteen acres of land almoſt adjoining to the firſt, to build on them a religious houſe. He accordingly founded one to the honor of God and the aſſumption of our lady, which he filled with Black Nuns of the order of St. Benedict. The firſt prioreſs was Chriſtina; the laſt, Iſabella Sackville, of the family of the preſent duke of Dorſet. She appointed [194] pointed her couſin, lord Buckhurſt, executor of her will, made February 19th 1569, if his lordſhip would undertake the trouble. She was buried in the conventual church; a ſmall braſs plate informs us ſhe died in the reign of queen Elizabeth.

SIR Thomas Chaloner, tutor to prince Henry, built a fine houſe in the cloſe of the priory, and on it inſcribed theſe apt verſes,

Caſta fides ſupereſt, velatae tecta ſorores
Iſta relegatae deſeruere licèt:
Nam venerandus Hymen hic vota jugalia ſervat,
Veſtalemque forum mente fovere ſtudet *.

THE church was made parochial. Part of the cloiſters remain, at leſt till very lately, as did part of the nun's hall. In very antient records it was ſtyled,PARISH CLERKS OUR ANTIENT ACTORS. Eccleſia Beatae Mariae de fonte Clericorum, from a well near it, at which the pariſh-clerks of London were accuſtomed to meet annually to perform their myſteries, or ſacred dramatical plays. In 1391, they performed before the king and queen, and whole court, three days ſucceſſively. Theſe amuſements, with much more ſubſtantial peace-offerings, were preſented to Richard, to divert his reſentment againſt the good citizens, for a riot of no very great moment againſt the biſhop of Saliſbury . And in 1409, they performed the creation of the world, which laſted eight days; and moſt of the nobility and gentry of England honored them with their preſence.—But to return to the church. Beſides the venerable prioreſs, here was interred the lord prior of the knights hoſpitalers above-mentioned, [195] Sir William Weſton, who lies under a tomb, beneath an arch of neat gothic work. The braſs is loſt, but there is ſtill his effigies repreſented in his ſhroud, emaciated by death; but admirably cut in ſtone. Weever preſerves part of his epitaph; but it gives us nothing hiſtorical *. That great collector of funeral monuments and inſcriptions lies here himſelf. He died in 1634 , aged 56, and left his own quaint epitaph:

Lankaſhire gave me birth, and Cambridge education,
Middleſex gave me death, and this church my humation;
And CHRIST to me hath given,
A place with him in heaven.

I SHALL conclude, with having obſerved here the plain monument of Gilbert Burnet, biſhop of Saliſbury. His literary merits and demerits have been ſo fully diſcuſſed, that I rather chuſe to refer the readers to the writers who have undertaken the taſk. Let his excellent diſcharge of his epiſcopal function, expiate the errors, which his enemies, of each party, ſo liberally impute to him.

NOW I am on the outſide of the church again, let me, in this revival of archery, direct the attention of the brethren and ſiſters of the bow to the epitaph of Sir William Wood, a celebrated archer, who died in 1691, aet. 82. May their longevity equal his! but when they have made their laſt ſhot, I hope that the Royal Britiſh BOWMEN have provided an abler bard, to celebrate their ſkill, than fell to the lot of poor William Wood .

[196]CLOSE to Clerkenwell-green ſtands Albemarle, or Newcaſtle-houſe; the property and reſidence of the mad dutcheſs, and widow of the ſecond duke of Albemarle, and laſt ſurviving daughter and coheireſs of Cavendiſh duke of Newcaſtle, who died here in 1734. At p. 164 ſome account is given of this lady. The houſe is entire, and at preſent occupied by a cabinet-maker. In the garden is the entire ſide of the cloiſter of the nunnery, and part of the wall, and a door belonging to the nuns hall. Scattered over the ground are the remains of the antient monuments of Sir Richard Weſton, and others, ſhamefully ruined, being flung here during the rebuilding of the church.

OPPOSITE to this houſe is another, very large, aſcended to by a long flight of ſteps. It is now divided into three houſes. It is called Oliver Cromwell's; and tradition ſays, it was his place of conference with Ireton, Bradſhaw, and others. If it had been his reſidence, it probably was uſurped from ſome of the loyaliſts, and made his manſion, before he attained his fullneſs of power, and lived in regal ſtate at Whitehall.

NEW RIVER HEAD.In the fields, at a ſmall diſtance from Clerkenwell, is the New River Head, the great repoſitory which ſupplies the largeſt portion of our capital with water. To give a greater extent of ſervice, of late years another reſervoir has been made on the heights, at a little diſtance to the north of the former. This is ſupplied with water from the firſt by means of an engine, which is worked by horſes, forcing the water up the aſcent; from hence it ſtreams down to places which the other had not the power of benefiting. Theſe reſervoirs may be called the HEART of the work. The element, eſſentially uſeful as the vital fluid, at firſt ruſhes through veins of vaſt diameter; divides into leſſer; and [197] again into thouſands of ramifications, which ſupport the life of this moſt populous city.

NO one ought to be ignorant that this unſpeakable benefit is owing to a WELSHMAN! Sir HUGH MIDDELTON, of Denbigh; who, on September 20th, 1608, began, and on September 29th, 1613, completed the great work. He brought the water from Amwell, in Hertfordſhire, a diſtance of twenty, but, from the neceſſity of making a detour to avoid hills and vallies, it was increaſed to thirty-eight miles three-quarters and ſixteen poles. Yet it was impoſſible to eſcape difficulties. His daring ſpirit penetrated the hills in ſeveral places: and carried the river over two vallies. Over one it extended ſix hundred and ſixty feet in length, and thirty in height; and over another, four hundred and ſixty-two feet in length. The original ſource of this river was, by the vaſt increaſe of London, found inadequate to its wants. The New River company found it neceſſary to have recourſe to another ſupply. They applied to parlement for powers to obtain it from the river Lee, the property of the city. London oppoſed the benefit intended its inhabitants; but in vain, parlement wiſely determined againſt their objections: ſo the bleſſing was forced upon them! and the river Lee ſupplies the greater part of the wants of the city. Sir HUGH MIDDELTON was ruined by the execution of his project. So little was the benefit underſtood, that, for above thirty years, the ſeventy-two ſhares, it was divided into, ſhared only five pounds apiece. Each of theſe ſhares was ſold originally for a hundred pounds. Within this twelvemonth they were ſold at nine thouſand pounds a ſhare; and lately at ten thouſand: and are increaſing, becauſe their profits increaſe, on which their dividends are grounded. Half of the ſeventy-two ſhares [198] are called king's ſhares, and are in leſs eſtimation than the others, becauſe ſubject to a grant of five hundred pounds a year, made ſo long ago as the reign of James I. when the water was firſt brought to London, or ſoon after.

I NOW deſcend to the Temple, and reſume my journey along Fleet-ſtreet, as far as the ſouthern extremity of the walls of London, the antient precinct; to follow them to their oppoſite end near the Tower; to deſcribe their neighboring ſuburbs, and the parts of the city bordering on their interior ſides. Theſe, with the city itſelf, ſhall form the final conſideration, together with the ſuburbs which point to Blackwall, and form a ſtreet of amazing extent.

ST. DUNSTAN'S CHURCH.JUST beyond the entrance into Chancery-lane, is St. Dunſtan's church. The ſaint to whom it was dedicated was a perſon of great ingenuity; and excelled in painting, engraving, and muſic. From the following lines it appears that he was the inventor of the Aeolian harp:

St. Dunſtan's harp faſt by the wall,
Upon a pin did hang a,
The harp itſelf, with ly and all,
Untouch'd by hand did twang a *.

For this he was repreſented to king Athelſtan as a conjuror. He was an excellent workman in braſs and iron. It was when thus employed at his forge, that he ſeized the devil by the noſe with the red-hot tongs, till he roared again. The daemon had viſited him in a female form, and ſuffered for intruding on this woman-hating ſaint.

[199]HIS church is probably of very antient foundation: yet the firſt mention of it is in 1237, when the abbot and convent of Weſtminſter beſtowed it on Henry III; who beſtowed the profits on the Domus Converſorum, or the houſe for converted Jews. The two figures of ſavages on the outſide of the clock, ſtriking the quarters with their clubs, were ſet up in 1671, and are much admired by the gaping populace.

NEXT to the Temple, is another Serjeant's-Inn, deſtined, originally, for the ſame purpoſe as that in Chancery-lane. And nearer to the Thames, a little eaſt of the King's-bench Walks, THE WHITE FRIARS. ſtood the church and convent of Carmelites, or White Friars; founded in 1241, by Sir Richard Grey, anceſtor of the lord Greys of Codnor. Edward I. beſtowed on them more ground, that they might enlarge their buildings. The order originated from the hermits of Mount Carmel, who inhabited the mountain which Elias and Eliſeus inhabited. On the diſſolution its revenues were £. 63. 2s. 4d. Part of the houſe was granted by Henry to Richard Moreſque; and the chapter-houſe, and other parts, to his phyſician William Butts, immortalized by Shakeſpear. Edward VI. beſtowed the houſe inhabited by Doctor Butts, together with the church, to the biſhop of Worceſter, and his ſucceſſors. It was afterwards demoliſhed, with all its tombs, and ſeveral houſes, inhabited in the reign of Edward VI. by people of faſhion. That church was built by Sir Robert Knolles, a great warrior in the time of Edward III. and Richard II; who was honorably interred here in 1407. John Mowbray, earl of Nottingham, in 1382, in his youthful years. Elizabeth wife of Henry earl of Kent, who had waſted his ſubſtance by gaming. That noble family had for [200] ſome time a houſe in the White Friars. John lord Gray, ſon to Reginald lord Gray, of Wilton, in 1418: and numbers of others of the common gentry.

BOLT-COURT.I MUST by no means omit Bolt-court, the long reſidence of Doctor SAMUEL JOHNSON, a man of the ſtrongeſt natural abilities, great learning, a moſt retentive memory, of the deepeſt and moſt unaffected piety and morality, mingled with thoſe numerous weakneſſes and prejudices which his friends have kindly taken care to draw from their dread abode. I brought on myſelf his tranſient anger, by obſerving, that in his tour in Scotland he once had ‘long and woeful experience of oats being the food of men in Scotland, as they were of horſes in England. It was a national reflection unworthy of him, and I ſhot my bolt. In return he gave me a tender hug *. Con amore, he alſo ſaid of me. The dog is a Whig . I admired the virtues of lord Ruſſel, and pitied his fall. I ſhould have been a Whig at the Revolution. There have been periods ſince, in which I ſhould have been, what I now am, a moderate Tory; a ſupporter, as far as my little influence extends, of a well-poiſed balance between the crown and people: but, ſhould the ſcale preponderate againſt the Salus populi, that moment may it be ſaid, The dog's a Whig!

SALISBURY-COURT.FARTHER to the weſt of White Friars, is Saliſbury-court, once the inn or city manſion of the biſhops of Saliſbury; afterwards of the Sackvilles: held at firſt by a long leaſe from the ſee, and then [201] changed by biſhop Jewel, for a valuable conſideration from that great family. It was ſucceſſively called Sackville-houſe, and Dorſet-houſe. The great lord Buckhurſt, created by James I. earl of Dorſet, wrote here his Porrex and Ferrex, a tragedy,DORSET-HOUSE. which was performed at Whitehall, before queen Elizabeth. He was equally great as a ſtateſman and author. Here alſo died two of his ſucceſſors: the laſt was the gallant earl (of whom lord Clarendon gives ſo great a character) who retired here on the murder of his royal maſter, and never after quitted the place.

THE houſe being pulled down,THEATRE. was ſucceeded by other buildings, among which was a magnificent theatre, built after the Reſtoration, by Sir Chriſtopher Wren; in which the company of comedians, called the duke of York's ſervants, performed under the patentee, Sir William Davenant. Here Betterton, and the beſt actors of the time, entertained the public, till its taſte grew ſo depraved that the new manager, Doctor Davenant, was obliged to call in aid, muſic and rich ſcenery, to ſupport his houſe.

THE church of St. Bride's, with its fine ſteeple, built by the ſame great architect, but loſt in the various houſes of the ſtreet,ST. BRIDE'S CHURCH. ſtands farther on, on the ſouth ſide. It was dedicated to St. Bridget; whether ſhe was Iriſh, or whether ſhe was Scotch; whether ſhe was maiden, or whether ſhe was wife, I will not dare to determine the conteſt. Her church was originally ſmall; but, by the piety of William Viner, warden of the Fleet about the year 1480, was enlarged with a body and ſide-ailes, and ornamented with grapes and vine-leaves, in alluſion to his name. It was deſtroyed by the great fire, and rebuilt ſoon after in its preſent form.

NOT far from this church lived the famous printer, Wynkyn de [202] Worde, at his inn or houſe, the Faulcon; but I find he enprynted his Fruyte of Tymes, in 1515, at the ſygne of the ſonne, in Fleet-ſtreet.

BRIDEWELL.NOT far from the White Friars, near the weſt ſide of Fleet-ditch, was a well, dedicated to one of the St. Brides, or Bridgets. This gave name to the pariſh-church, and the ancient palace of Bridewell, which was honored with the reſidence of ſeveral of our monarchs, even as early as king John. It was formed partly out of the remains of an antient caſtle,ARX PALATINA. the weſtern Arx Palatina of the city, which ſtood near the little river Fleet, near to the Thames. In 1087, William the Conqueror gave many of the choiceſt materials towards the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, which had been deſtroyed by fire. And Henry I. gave as many of the ſtones, from the walls of the caſtle-yard, as ſerved to incloſe and form the gates, and precinct of the church. Notwithſtanding this, the dwelling remained, and became the reſidence of ſeveral of our monarchs *. To this palace that arbitrary prince convened all the abbots, and other heads of religious houſes, Engliſh and foreign, and ſqueezed out of them a hundred thouſand pounds; in thoſe days an enormous ſum. From the Ciſtercians, who would not own his ſupremacy, not leſs than thirty-three thouſand. Henry VIII. rebuilt the palace, in a moſt magnificent manner, for the reception of the emperor Charles V. who viſited England in 1522. After all the expence, the emperor lodged in Black Friars, and his ſuite in the new palace; and a gallery of communication was flung over the ditch, and a paſſage cut through the city wall [203] into the emperor's apartments. The king often lodged here, particularly in 1529, when the queſtion of his marriage with queen Catherine was agitated at Black Friars. It fell afterwards into decay, and was begged by the pious prelate Ridley, from Edward VI. to be converted to ſome charitable purpoſe.HOUSE OF CORRECTION. That of a houſe of correction was determined on, for vagabonds of each ſex and all denominations. The firſt time I viſited the place, there was not a ſingle male priſoner, and about twenty female. They were confined on a ground-floor, and employed in beating of hemp. When the door was opened, by the keeper, they ran towards it like ſo many hounds in kennel; and preſented a moſt moving ſight: about twenty young creatures, the eldeſt not exceeding ſixteen, many of them with angelic faces, diveſted of every angelic paſſion; and featured with impudence, impenitency, and profligacy; and cloathed in the ſilken tatters of ſqualid finery. A magiſterial! a national opprobrium!!!—What a diſadvantageous contraſt to the Spinhuis, in Amſterdam, where the confined ſit under the eye of a matron ſpinning or ſewing, in plain and neat dreſſes, provided by the public. No trace of their former lives appears in their countenances; a thorough reformation ſeems to have been effected, equally to the emolument and honor of the republic. This is alſo the place of confinement for diſobedient and idle apprentices. They are kept ſeparate, in airy cells; and have an allotted taſk to be performed in a certain time. They, the men and women, are employed in beating hemp, picking oakum, and packing of goods, and are ſaid to earn their maintenance.

BUT Bridewell is not only a priſon for the diſſolute,A HOUSE OF INDUSTRY. but a hoſpital [204] for the education of the induſtrious youth. Here twenty Arts maſters (as they are ſtyled) conſiſting of decayed tradeſmen, ſuch as ſhoemakers, taylors, flax-dreſſers, and weavers, have houſes, and receive apprentices, who are inſtructed in ſeveral trades; the maſters receiving the profit of their labors. After the boys have ſerved their time with credit, they are payed ten pounds to begin the world with; and are entitled to the freedom of the city. They are dreſſed in blue, with a white hat. The proceſſion of theſe, and the children of Chriſt's Hoſpital, on Eaſter Monday and Tueſday, to St. Bride's church, affords to the humane the moſt pleaſing ſpectacle, as it excites the reflection of the multitudes thus reſcued from want, profligacy, and perdition. The number of vagrants, and other indigent and miſerable people, received into this houſe the laſt year, was ſeven hundred and ſixteen; many of whom had phyſic, and other relief, as their neceſſities required, at the expence of the hoſpital.

COURT OF JUSTICE.SOME of the original building yet remains; as does the magnificent flight of antient ſtairs, which leads to the preſent court of juſtice, which is a handſome apartment. Contiguous to it is the room of puniſhment; but in our mild country, no other inſtrument is to be ſeen in it but a large whipping ſtocks. This is ſaid to have been the place in which the ſentence of divorce was pronounced againſt the worthy princeſs, which had been concluded on in the oppoſite monaſtery.

HALL. FINE PICTURE BY HOLBEIN.THE hall opens into the court-room. Over the chimney is the celebrated portrait of Edward VI. by Holbein, repreſenting that monarch beſtowing the charter of Bridewell, to Sir George Barnes, the lord mayor: by him is William earl of Pembroke, a great [205] favorite and diſtinguiſhed character; and Thomas Goodrich, biſhop of Ely, and lord chancellor of England: and in a corner is the head of the celebrated painter. There are doubts whether this picture was completed by Holbein; for his death, and that of the king, very ſoon followed the ſolemnity it records.

SIR William Withers, lord mayor of London, is painted, repreſented on horſeback. He was preſident in 1741, and beſtowed on this hoſpital the iron gates and marble pavement.

SIR William Turner, in long hair, furred robe, and gold chain; the face very fine. This gentleman was lord mayor in 1669; a native of Kirk Leedham, in Yorkſhire, and a moſt liberal benefactor to his native place. He was painted by Mr. Beale, for Mr. Knollys, who preſented it to the governors of Bridewell.

ANOTHER portrait, of Sir Robert Geoffry, with long wig, and furred robes, dated 1593. Two very fine portraits, of Charles II. ſitting, and James II. ſtanding, by Lely. Finally, a picture of Slingſby Bethel, eſq lord mayor in 1756; the laſt work of the painter Hudſon.

THE creek, called Fleet-ditch, FLEET-DITCH. had its entrance from the Thames immediately below Bridewell; and reached as far as Holborn-bridge, at the foot of Holborn-hill; and received into it the little river Fleet, Turnmill brook, and another called Oldbourn, which gave name to that vaſt ſtreet. The tide flowed up as high as Holborn-bridge, and brought up barges of conſiderable burden. Over it were four ſtone bridges, and on the ſides extenſive quays and warehouſes. It was of ſuch utility, that it was ſcoured and kept open at vaſt expence; and, not later than 1606, near twenty-eight thouſand pounds were expended for that purpoſe.

[206]IN the performing of this work, at the depth of fifteen feet, were found ſeveral Roman utenſils; and a little deeper, a great quantity of Roman coins, in ſilver, copper, braſs, and other metals, but none in gold. At Holborn-bridge were found two brazen Lares, about four inches long; one a Bacchus, the other a Ceres. It is a probable conjecture that theſe were thrown in by the affrighted Romans, at the approach of the enraged Boadicia, who ſoon took ample revenge on her inſulting conquerors. Here were alſo found numbers of Saxon antiquities, ſpurs, weapons, keys, ſeals, &c.; alſo medals, croſſes, and crucifixes, which might likewiſe have been flung in on occaſion of ſome alarm.

THIS canal was afterwards neglected, and became a nuſance; was filled up, and a ſewer formed beneath to convey the water to the river. The fine market, which extends the whole length of the old ditch, roſe in its place in 1733; in which year an act was paſſed to empower the lord mayor and citizens to fill up the ditch at their own expence, and to veſt the ſee-ſimple of the ground in them and their ſucceſſors for ever. I recollect the preſent noble approach to Blackfriars-bridge, the well-built opening of CHATHAM-PLACE, a muddy and genuine ditch. This had been the mouth of the creek, which, as Stow informs us, in 1307 was of depth and width ſufficient ‘that ten or twelve ſhips navies at once, with merchandizes, were wont to come to the aforeſaid bridge of Fleete *.’ It muſt be recollected, that at this period there were drawbridges upon London-bridge, through which ſhips of a certain ſize might paſs, and diſcharge their cargoes in the mouth of the Fleet.

[207]THIS end of Blackfriars-bridge now fills the filthy mouth of Fleet-ditch. BLACKFRIARS-BRIDGE. This elegant ſtructure was built after the deſign of Mr. Robert Mylne. It conſiſts of nine arches, the center of which is a hundred feet wide. The whole length nine hundred and ninety-five feet; the breadth of the carriage-way twenty-eight feet; of the two footways ſeven each. Over each pier is a receſs, an apology for the beautiful pairs of ionic pillars which ſupport them. The effect of this ſingular application of columns is beautiful from the river. The equinoctial tides riſe here to the heighth of eighteen or twenty feet.—The firſt ſtone of this bridge was laid on October 30th, 1760; and it was completed about the latter end of the year 1768; at the expence of £. 152, 840. 3s. 10d *. The magnificent proſpect from the top is ſo well deſcribed in the Tour through London (a little book that no walker of taſte ſhould be without) that I muſt refer my reader to that judicious and pleaſing compilation, to which I freely acknowlege my frequent obligation.

ON the eaſt ſide of Fleet-market, ſtands the Fleet-priſon, FLEET-PRISON. for debtors, founded at leſt as early as the firſt of Richard I. It was alſo the place of confinement for ſuch who had incurred the diſpleaſure of that arbitrary court, the Star Chamber. This priſon became ſuch a ſcene of cruelty, that, in the year 1729, a moſt benevolent ſet of gentlemen, prototypes of the GOOD HOWARD, formed themſelves into a committee, to ſearch into the horrors of the gloomy gaol.

Unpitied, and unheard, where miſery moans,
Where ſickneſs pines, where thirſt and hunger burns,
[208]And poor misfortune feels the laſh of vice,
While in the land of liberty. The land
Whoſe every ſtreet and public meeting glow
With open freedom, little tyrants rag'd;
Snatch'd the lean morſel from the ſtarving mouth;
Tore from cold wint'ry limbs the tatter'd weed;
Even robb'd them of the laſt of comforts, ſleep;
The free-born Briton to the dungeon chain'd,
Or, as the luſt of cruelty prevail'd,
At pleaſure mark'd him with inglorious ſtripes;
And cruſh'd out lives by ſecret barbarous ways.
THOMSON.

All theſe barbarities were realized. The Houſe of Commons, the year preceding, had taken up the enquiries *; and found that Huggins, warden of the Fleet, and Bambridge, his deputy, and William Acton, turnkey, had exerciſed moſt ſhocking cruelties. Thoſe monſters were tried for the murder of five unhappy men, who died under the moſt horrid treatment from them. Yet, notwithſtanding the proſecution was recommended from the throne, and conducted by the ableſt lawyers, to the concern of all good men theſe wretches eſcaped their merited puniſhment .

PROFLIGATE MARRIAGES.IN walking along the ſtreet, in my youth, on the ſide next to this priſon, I have often been tempted by the queſtion, Sir, will you be pleaſed to walk in and be married? Along this moſt lawleſs ſpace was hung up the frequent ſign of a male and female hand conjoined, with, Marriages performed within, written beneath. [209] A dirty fellow invited you in. The parſon was ſeen walking before his ſhop; a ſqualid profligate figure, clad in a tattered plaid night-gown, with a fiery face, and ready to couple you for a dram of gin, or roll of tobacco. Our great chancellor, lord HARDWICK, put theſe daemons to flight, and ſaved thouſands from the miſery and diſgrace which would be entailed by theſe extemporary thoughtleſs unions.

I SHALL now give a general view of the Walls, CITY WALLS. the antient defence of the city; and of the Town-ditch, a work of conſiderable labor. In my progreſs I ſhall point out whatſoever was remarkable in the adjacent ſuburbs, or the parts within the city which border on the walls. There never was any alteration made in the courſe of this firſt precinct, which was preſerved through all ſucceeding ages; and in every reparation or additional ſtrength which was thought neceſſary. Its direction was from the firſt irregular. The Romans, as was frequently the caſe, conſulted the neceſſity of the ground *. It commenced at the Palatine-tower, ran in a ſtrait line along the eminence of Ludgate-hill, and above Fleet-ditch, as far as Newgate; then ſuddenly was carried northerly to a ſpot a little beyond Alderſgate, and at that place ran ſtrait in a northern direction almoſt to Cripplegate; from whence it reſumed a ſtrait eaſtern courſe as far as Biſhopſgate, in which a long remnant of the wall, ſtill called London Wall, is to be ſeen. From Biſhopſgate it aſſumes a gentle curvature pointed to the Tower, over the ſite of which it originally paſſed, and probably finiſhed in a Caſtellum in this, as it did in the weſtern extremity. Another wall guarded the river, and ran the whole length [210] of the ſouth ſide of the city, on the direction of the vaſt ſtreet called Thames-ſtreet. But all this I ſhall particularize in my walk round the antient walls.

TOWN-DITCH.I SHALL firſt mention another conſiderable addition to the ſtrength of thoſe fortifications. The Town-ditch was a ſtupendous piece of work, began in the reign of king John, in 1211, by the Londoners themſelves, poſſibly as a protection againſt their own monarch; who, in reſentment to them, had juſt removed the Exchequer to Northampton. It was two hundred feet broad, and extended, on the outſide of the walls, from Tower-ditch quite to Chriſt's Hoſpital. Notwithſtanding the multitude of hands employed, it was not finiſhed in leſs than two years. It was filled with water, as is evident from the quantity of good fiſh Stow informs us was taken in it *. The citizens for ſome centuries were at great expence in cleanſing and keeping it open: but, after the laſt attempt, in 1595, the work was given over, it became ſtable land, and was ſoon covered with buildings.

THE weſtern wall terminated near the river with a ſort, which I apprehend to have been the caſtle of Montfitchet, ſoon to be mentioned.

BLACK FRIARS.WITHIN the walls, oppoſite to Bridewell, ſtood the great houſe of Black Friars, or Dominicans; founded by the intereſt and exhortations of Robert Kilwarby, archbiſhop of Canterbury, about 1276; when Gregory Rockſley, and the barons of London, preſented him with the ground. Edward I. and his queen Elianor became great benefactors; by the aſſiſtance of whom, the archbiſhop built the monaſtery, and a large church richly ornamented. [211] This obtained every immunity which any religious houſe had. Its precinct was very large, had four gates, and contained numbers of ſhops; the inhabitants of which were ſubject only to the king, the ſuperior of the houſe, and their own juſtices. It alſo became a ſanctuary for debtors, and even malefactors; a privilege which it preſerved even long after the ſuppreſſion of religious houſes.

To make way for this foundation, two lanes were pulled down, and part of the city wall; which laſt was rebuilt immediately by a charter granted by Edward I. for that purpoſe.CASTLE OF MONTFICHET. The caſtle of Montfichet alſo fell a ſacrifice to this houſe. It was built by Gilbert de Montfichet, a follower of the Conqueror: and, growing ruinous, by gift of the king the materials were uſed for the building of the church, on the ſite of this antient tower. The church became a faſhionable place of interment of people of rank; and to be buried in the habit of the order, was thought to be a ſure preſervative againſt the attacks of the devil. Among other illuſtrious perſonages was Hubert de Burgh, earl of Kent, and his wife Margaret, ſiſter to Alexander II. king of Scotland; the heart of queen Elianor; lord Fanhope; that patron of learning John Tiptoft, earl of Worceſter, beheaded in 1470; James Touchet, earl of Audley, beheaded in 1497; Sir Thomas Brandon, knight of the Garter; William Courteney, earl of Devonſhire; and much other great and noble duſt.

IN the ſame church were alſo held ſeveral parlements. The remarkable one of 1450, in the reign of Henry VI. was adjourned from Weſtminſter to this place; here the weak monarch vainly endeavoured to divert the ſtorm raiſed by his ſubjects againſt the favorite of his queen, William de la Pole, duke of Suffolk; and by a poor expedient, a ſimulated exile, drove him to inſtant death.

[212]HERE, in 1524, Henry VIII. held another, in order to oppreſs his ſubjects with an aid of eight hundred thouſand pounds, to carry on his imprudent wars. The virtue of the commons reſiſted the demand, and gave him ony a moderate tax. This was called the Black parlement, as it began amongſt the Black Monks, at Weſtminſter; and ended among the Black Friars.

HERE cardinal Campeggio, and cardinal Wolſey, ſat, in 1529, as judges and legates, on the queſtion of divorce between Henry and the ill-fated princeſs Catherine of Arragon; Henry and his queen at that time reſiding in the palace of Bridewell, ready to attend the farcical citations of that court. And in this place Wolſey himſelf fell from all his greatneſs; for here began the parlement which gave the ſentence of premunire, the laſt ſtroke to all his proſperity.

WITH all the great events which honored this houſe, its revenues, at the diſſolution, were only one hundred pounds fifteen ſhillings and five pence. Biſhop Fiſher held it in commendam; and in 1538, with fifteen brethren, ſurrendered it to the king. Edward VI. afterwards granted it to Sir Thomas Cawarden.

IN the reign of queen Elizabeth, the Black Friars became a place much inhabited by people of faſhion. Among others, lord Herbert, ſon of William, fourth earl of Worceſter, had a houſe here, which queen Elizabeth, in 1600, honored with her preſence, on occaſion of his nuptials with the daughter and heireſs of John lord Ruſſel, ſon of Francis earl of Bedford. The queen was met at the water-ſide by the bride, and carried to her houſe in a lectica by ſix knights; her majeſty dined there, and ſupped in the ſame neighborhood, with lord Cobham; where there was ‘a memorable maſke of 8 ladies, and a ſtraunge dawnce new invented. [213] Their attire is this: each hath a ſkirt of cloth of ſilver; a rich waſtcoat wrought with ſilkes, and gold and ſilver; a mantell of carnacion taffete, caſt under the arme; and there haire looſe about there ſhoulders, curiouſly knotted and interlaced. Mrs. Fitton leade; theſe 8 ladys maſkets chooſe 8 ladies more to dawnce the meaſures. Mrs. Fitton went to the queen, and woed her dawnce: her majeſty (the love of Eſſex rankling in her breaſt) aſked what ſhe was? Affection, ſhe ſaid: Affection! ſaid the queen, Affection is falſe. Yet her majeſtie roſe up and dawnced *.’ At this time the queen was ſixty: ſurely, as Mr. WALPOLE obſerved, it was at that period as natural for her to be in love!—I muſt not forget, that in her paſſage from the bride's to lord Cobham's, ſhe went through the houſe of Doctor Puddin, and was preſented by the doctor with a fan.—The Count de Tillier, ambaſſador of France, in the latter end of the reign of James I. reſided here. During his reſidence in England, the dreadful accident, called the Fatal Veſpers, happened near his houſe. A celebrated preacher of the order of the Jeſuits, father Drury, FATAL VESPERS. gave a ſermon to a large audience of Britiſh ſubjects, in a ſpacious room up three pair of ſtairs. In the midſt of the diſcourſe the floor fell, and ninety-four perſons, beſides the preacher, periſhed. It is diſguſting to reflect on the uncharitable bigotry of the times. The Proteſtants conſidered the accident as a judgment on the Catholics, for their idolatry: the Catholics attributed it to a plot of the Proteſtants, to bring deſtruction on their diſſenting brethren.

APOTHECARIES-HALL is within this precinct;APOTHECARIES-HALL. a large and [214] handſome building, in which medicines of all kinds are prepared, and ſold at a cheap rate: here alſo are made up the cheſts of medicines for the army and navy. It was finiſhed in 1670: but I am not acquainted with the time of the firſt eſtabliſhment of this uſeful inſtitution: perhaps in that of James I. there being in the hall the portrait of that monarch, and a buſt of his apothecary, Gideon Dilaune.

KING'S PRINTING-HOUSE.WITHIN this diſtrict was the King's Printing-houſe; in which bibles, common prayers, proclamations, and every thing reſpecting the public, were heretofore printed. Here, in the time of Charles I. was made that dreadful omiſſion, in the ſeventh commandment, of, Thou SHALT commit adultery; for which archbiſhop Laud very properly laid a heavy fine on the Stationers company, to whom the printing of the ſacred book is committed by patent. The SPECTATOR wittily obſerves, that he fears that many young profligates, of both ſexes, are poſſeſſed of this ſpurious edition, and obſerve the commandment according to that faulty reading.

LUDGATE.THE firſt gate in this ſouthern part of the walls is Ludgate, which ſtood on the middle of Ludgate-hill. This, and every other gate in the city, are at preſent pulled down, Temple-bar excepted. Ludgate was built during the wars of the barons with king John: in 1215, they entered the city, and deſtroyed the houſes of the devoted Jews; and with their houſes repaired the walls, and built this gate. When it was taken down to be rebuilt, in 1586, a ſtone, with this inſcription in Hebrew, was found lodged in the wall. ‘This is the ward of Rabbi Moſes, the ſon of the honorable Rabbi Iſaac. It was in my memory a wretched priſon for debtors; it commenced what was called a free-priſon, in 1373, but ſoon loſt that privilege. It was enlarged, [215] and had the addition of a chapel, by Sir Stephen Forſter, on a very romantic occaſion. He himſelf had been confined there, and, begging at the grate, was accoſted by a rich widow, who aſked him what ſum would purchaſe his liberty. She payed it down, took him into her ſervice, and afterward married him. In the chapel was an inſcription in honor of him and Agnes his wife, dated 1454, the year in which he enjoyed the honor of being lord mayor of the city.

THIS gate gave a concluſion to the rebellion of Sir Thomas Wyat. When he had, with ſome loſs, led his forces along the Strand and Fleet-ſtreet, in hopes of being joined by the citizens, he found it ſhut againſt him, and ſtrongly manned; ſeized with deſpondency, he retreated a little down the hill, and, flinging himſelf on a bench oppoſite to the inn called The Bell Savage, began to repent the raſhneſs of his enterprize and lament his folly. He was ſummoned by a herald to ſubmit; which he agreed to, requeſting that it might be to a gentleman; and accordingly yielded himſelf into the hard of Sir Maurice Berkely, or Sir Clement Parton *.

THE Bell Savage continues an inn to this day:BELL SAVAGE. but the ſign is diſuſed. Stow ſays that it received its name from one Iſabella Savage, who had given the houſe to the company of Cutlers. The painter gave it a very diverting origin, deriving it from a Bell and a Wild Man; ſo painted a bell, with a ſavage man ſtanding by it. The SPECTATOR alone gives the real derivation; which is from La Belle Sauvage, a beautiful woman, deſcribed in an old French romance as being found in a wilderneſs in a ſavage ſtate .

[214]
[...]
[215]
[...]

[216] OLD BAILEY.ON the outſide of Ludgate, the ſtreet called the Old Bailey runs parallel with the walls as far as Newgate. In this ſtreet ſtood Sydney-houſe (at preſent occupied by a coach-maker) once the reſidence of the Sydnies, till they removed to Leiceſter-houſe *. The Seſſions-houſe, in which criminals of the county of Middleſex, and the whole capital, are tried, is a very elegant building, erected within theſe few years. The entrance into the area is narrow, to prevent a ſudden ingreſs of mob. Above it is the figure of Juſtice. Every precaution has been taken to keep the court airy, and to prevent the effect of the effluvia ariſing from that dreadful diſorder the gaol-fever. The havoke it made in May, 1750, was a melancholy admonition to thoſe intereſted in every court of juſtice. My reſpected kinſman Sir Samuel Pennant, lord mayor; baron Clark; Sir Thomas Abney, judge of the common pleas; the under ſheriff, ſome of the counſel, and ſeveral of the jury, and of other perſons, died of this putrid diſtemper. Several of theſe fatal accidents have happened in this kingdom, which makes the ſurprize the greater, that the neglect of the ſalutary precautions was continued till the time of this awakening call.—MR. HOWARD has given us a view and plan of the great gaol of Newgate, as now rebuilt. Some of the defects of the old one are remedied: but this FRIEND TO MANKIND ſeems ſtill to think it is not free from errors; and that, without great care, the priſoners are yet liable to the fatal fever, the reſult of one of thoſe errors.

SURGEONS THEATERBY a ſort of ſecond ſight, the Surgeons Theatre was built near this court of conviction and Newgate, the concluding ſtage [217] of the lives forfeited to the juſtice of their country, ſeveral years before the fatal tree was removed from Tyburn to its preſent ſite. It is a handſome building, ornamented with ionic pilaſters; and with a double flight of ſteps to the firſt floor. Beneath them is a door for the admiſſion of the bodies of murderers, and other felons; who, noxious in their lives, make a ſort of reparation to their fellow-creatures, by becoming uſeful after death.

THE new priſon, which retains the name of Newgate, NEWGATE; from the gate which, till within theſe few years, formed a part of it, is immediately beyond the Seſſions-houſe: a maſſy building, with an extenſive front of ruſtic-work, with all the appearance of ſtrength and ſecurity. Yet, in the infamous riots of 1780, the felons confined even in the ſtrongeſt holds were releaſed; ſtones of two or three tons in weight, to which the doors of their cells were faſtened, were raiſed by that reſiſtleſs ſpecies of crow, well-known to houſebreakers by the name of the Pig's-foot. Such was the violence of the fire, that the great iron bars of the windows were eaten through; and the adjacent ſtones vitrified.

THE gate ſtood a little beyond this building:WHEN BUILT. as a military way has been traced under it, there can be no doubt but there had been one during the time the city was poſſeſſed by the Romans: but the place had been made up, and no veſtiges of it left. The gate, which ſupplied its place, is ſuppoſed by Stow to have been erected between the years 1108 and 1128, when Richard Beauveyes, biſhop of London, by enlarging the precincts of St. Paul's, had obſtructed the uſual way under Ludgate, and made this new outlet neceſſary. Mr. Howel ſays, that the original name was Chamberlain-gate. It had been for ages a priſon, even as long as [218] the year 1218; and for perſons of rank, long before the Tower was uſed for that purpoſe. Robert Baldock, chancellor to Edward III. was ſent there; where, ſays Fabian, he ended his days miſerably *: Sir Thomas Percie, lord Egremond, and other people of diſtinction, were committed to that priſon in 1457. In 1412, this gate was rebuilt by the executors of the famous Sir Richard Whittington, out of the effects he had allotted for works of charity: his ſtatue, with the cat, remained in a nich to its final demolition, on the rebuilding of the preſent priſon. It was deſtroyed in the fire of 1666, and rebuilt in its late form. It had one great arch, and one poſtern for paſſengers: and on each ſide a half hexagon tower.

NEW COMPTER.TO the north of Newgate, immediately acroſs the ſtreet (and, with the eaſt end of St. Sepulchre's church, forming the entrance of Giltſpur-ſtreet) is lately built a vaſt pile, of a proper ſtrength and ſimplicity, intended to ſupply the place of one or both of the city priſons, called Compters.—This, with the edifices juſt mentioned, form all together a ſuperb, but melancholy group of public buildings; and are a noble improvement of this ſpot; which, a few years ago, was much incumbered with a number of old houſes, interrupting the free courſe of the air, the view, and the intercourſe of paſſengers.

Figure 5. King Charles 1st Porter & Dwarf

M PA

THE KINGS PORT

Figure 6. Boar in East Cheap

IT

J668

Figure 7. Sculpture in [...]anni [...] Ally
WHEN [...] HAVE SOVGHT THE CITY ROVND
[...]T STILL THIS IS THE HIGHEST GROVND

AVGVST THE 27

1688

THE Bagnio in this court ſeems the firſt we had in our capital:BAGNIOS. a neat contrived building, ſays Strype, after the Turkiſh faſhion, for the purpoſes of ſweating and hot-bathing; and much approved by the phyſicians of the time. It probably was ſomewhat of the nature of Dominicetti's plan. At length it became, beſides, a ſort of Hotel, or lodging-houſe, for any ſhort ſpace. This, and the Hummums in Covent-garden, were the only houſes of the kind which ſupported a fair character; till Pero's, in St. James's-ſtreet, was ſet up: ſince which, the conveniency of Hotels, on the French model, is univerſally experienced.

IN the wall of a houſe in Pannier-all [...]y, in this, or rather Blowbladder-ſtreet, is a figure in [...]one of a naked boy, ſitting on ſomething like a pannier; and beneath is this inſcription:

When you have ſought the citty round,
Yet ſtill this is the higheſt ground.
Aug. 27, 1688.

The ſtone has very much the appearance of an antient ſepulchral one; and might have had the inſcription cut on it to inform the public of the elevated ſituation of the place.

[220] CHURCH OF ST. SEPULCHRE.THE church of St. Sepulchre, or the holy ſepulchre, before-mentioned, ſtands at a ſmall diſtance from the ſite of the gate, on the north ſide of Snow-hill. It was dedicated to the holy ſepulchre at Jeruſalem: but whether the original church, which was of a great ſize, and long ſince demoliſhed, was of the form of that in Judea, is unknown. It was rebuilt in the reign of Henry VI. or Edward IV. Popham, chancellor of Normandy, who is mentioned as having been buried in the church of the Chartreux, was a great benefactor to this church. The famous captain John Smith, who perhaps underwent more romantic adventures, and deeds of arms, than any man who ever exiſted, reſted here, in 1631, from his turmoils. I refer to his hiſtory for his wondrous acts of chivalry; for the kindneſs he experienced among the Turks, from the beauteous lady Tragebyſanda! the charitable lady Calamata! and the bleſſed Pokahontas! the great king of Virginia's daughter.

A SOLEMN exhortation was formerly given to the priſoners, appointed to die at Tyburn, in their way from Newgate. Mr. Robert Dow, merchant taylor, who died in 1612; left 26s. 8d. yearly for ever, that the bell-man ſhould deliver from the wall to the unhappy criminals, as they went by in the cart, a moſt pious and aweful admonition. And alſo another, in the priſon of Newgate, on the night before they ſuffered. I give them in the note, as they are affectingly good *.

[figure]

[221]FROM a little beyond Newgate, the walls take a north-eaſternly direction, as far as Alderſgate.

I STILL purſue my journey along the northern ſuburbs; paſs into Alderſgate-ſtreet, near the ſite of its antient gate. Alderſgate-ſtreet [222] is open and airy, and remarkable for the antiquity of ſeveral of its houſes.LONDON-HOUSE. London-houſe, the reſidence of the later biſhops of the dipreſe, is now no more: its place is covered with the warehouſes of Mr. Sedd [...], the greateſt and moſt elegant repoſitory of goods in the article of the cabinet manufactory, in the world. Stow informs us it was once called Petre-houſe, having been the property of the lords Petre: an anceſtor of theirs, Sir William Petre, who died in 1572, was a benefactor to the pariſh of St. Botclph, Alderſgate *, in which the family reſided. I do not know the time when the family alienated the place, or when it became the reſidence of the biſhops of London; but ſuſpect that they occupied their palace near St. Paul's, till it was deſtroyed in the great fire. London-houſe has long ſince been ſold, under the powers of an act of parlement: and the houſe in St. James's-ſquare (the preſent town-houſe of the biſhops of London) purchaſed for their uſe. The laſt tenant of London-houſe was, I think, old Rawlinſon, the nonjuring titular biſhop of London, who rented it. He died about twenty years ago; and left his antiquities to the univerſity of Oxford.

THANET-HOUSE.ALMOST oppoſite to London-houſe, is Thanet-houſe. It was firſt called Dorcheſter-houſe, having been the reſidence of the marquis of Dorcheſter . In after times the town ſeat of the Tuftons, earls of Thanet: a magnificent old houſe, built about the time of Charles I. It was hired or purchaſed by the incendiary ſtateſman lord Shaftſbury, for the purpoſe of living in the city, to inflame [223] the minds of the citizens; among whom he uſed to boaſt he could raiſe ten thouſand briſk boys by the holding up of his finger. He attempted to get into the magiſtracy; but, being diſappointed in his views, and terrified at the apprehenſion of the detection of a conſpiracy, he had entered into againſt his prince, fled, in 1683, into Holland, where he ſoon died of the gout, heightened by rage, and fruſtrated ambition *. This houſe, after undergoing various fortunes, in 1750 was converted into a lyingin hoſpital; a moſt humane inſtitution, ſupported by voluntary contributions, which doth great honor to its patrons.

IN this ſtreet was alſo the town houſe of the Nevils, WESTMORELAND AND NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSES. earls of Weſtmoreland; a magnificent pile, now frittered into various tenements, but ſtill keeps its name under that of Weſtmoreland court. The other great northern family was lodged not far from hence, but within the walls, in a ſtreet now called Bull-and-Mouth ſtreet; the Percies, earls of Northumberland: but the buſineſs of thoſe potent peers was chiefly in the camp; for they ſeldom viſited town but to brave the ſovereign or the favorite.

LAUDERDALE-HOUSE ſtood on the eaſt ſide of the northern end of the ſtreet. It was the town ſeat of the duke of Lauderdale: LAUDERDALE-HOUSE. but its place is now covered with the diſtillery belonging to Meſſrs Bote and Walſh.

[224]THE Bull-and-Mouth Inn, not far from the ſite of the gate, muſt not be paſſed by, on account of the wonderful perverſion of the name. It originally ſignifies the mouth of Boulogne Harbour; which grew into a popular ſign after the coſtly capture of that place by Henry VII.

BARBICAN.THE Barbican, which I mentioned, at page 9, as originally a Roman Specula, or watch-tower, lay a little to the north of this ſtreet. It was an appendage to moſt fortified places. The Saxons gave them the title of Burgh-kenning. They were eſteemed ſo important, that the cuſtody was always committed to ſome man of rank. This was entruſted to the care of Robert Ufford, earl of Suffolk, by Edward III. by the name of Baſe-court; which deſcended, by the marriage of Cecilia, one of his daughters, to Sir John Willoughby, afterwards, lord Willoughby, of Parham. In the reign of queen Mary, it was poſſeſſed by Catherine, widow of Charles Brandon, duke of Suffolk, in her own right baroneſs Willoughby, of Ereſhy; and then wife of Thomas Bertie, anceſtor of the duke of Ancaſter: this lady, in her zeal againſt popery, had dreſſed a dog in a rochet or ſurplice, uſed by biſhops; and, in affront to biſhop Gardiner, had named a dog after him *. This induced her and her huſband to quit their houſe at the Barbican, and retire into foreign parts, till the danger was over. The manſion was called Willoughby-houſe, was of a great ſize, and inhabited by her ſon, who was called Peregrine, becauſe he happened to be born abroad during the flight of his parents.

BRIDGEWATER-HOUSE.THE earls of Bridgewater had alſo a houſe in the Barbican, [225] called after their title. It was burnt down in 1675, and lord Brackley, eldeſt ſon of the then earl, and a younger brother, with their tutor, unfortunately periſhed in the flames. The ſite is now called Bridgewater-ſquare, or garden. It was in the laſt century, at the time Newcaſtle was beſieged, celebrated for its orchards, productive of ſuch quantities of fruits, ſays Mr. EVELYN, as never were produced before or after that time. Mr. EVELYN attributes this to the decreaſe of ſmoke, reſulting from the ſcarcity of coal in the capital from that event. He inveighs with great indignation at the increaſe of that ſpecies of fuel; and at the introduction of ſo many manufactories, productive of ſmoke, which not only deformed our nobleſt buildings with the ſooty tinge, but alſo, from the quantity of coal, brought on catarrhs, coughs, and conſumptions, in a degree unknown in Paris, and other cities, who make uſe of wood only. His words are ſtrong: ‘The city of London, ſays he, ‘reſembles rather the face of mount Aetna, the court of Vulcan Stromboli, or the ſuburbs of Hell, than an aſſembly of rational creatures, and the imperial ſeat of our incomparable monarch *.’ The project of this good and able writer, of ſupplying London with wood-fires, was certainly very humane: but, from the deſtruction of the woods even in his days, was as little feaſible as it would be at preſent.

GARTER-PLACE was another great houſe in this quarter.GARTER-PLACE. It had been built by Sir Thomas Writhe, or Writhſley, garter king at arms, and uncle to the firſt earl of Southampton .

ST. ALBAN's church, in Wood-ſtreet, I mention on account of [226] its antiquity, having been founded in the time of king Athelſtan, or about 924. Stow relates, that Roman bricks were in his time to be ſeen mixed with the building *. Athelſtan had alſo a houſe near, which gave name to Adel-ſtreet, or King Adel-ſtreet, as it is called in old writings .

HEAD OF JAMES V.IN this church, flung among Plebeian ſculls, was the head of the unfortunate James V. of Scotland. His body, for a long time, had remained embalmed at the monaſtery at Shene. After the diſſolution, it was caſt among ſome rubbiſh, where ſome workmen wantonly cut off the head; which was taken by Young, glazier to queen Elizabeth, who was ſtruck with its ſweetneſs, ariſing from the embalming materials. He kept it for ſome time at his houſe in Wood-ſtreet; but at laſt gave it to the ſexton, to bury among other bones in the charnel-houſe . Such is often the end of ambitious greatneſs.

REDCROSS-STREET.FROM the Barbican, Redcroſs-ſtreet, one of the antient ſtreets, points down towards Cripplegate. In it the mitred abbot of Ramſey had his town-houſe. It was afterward called Drury-houſe, from its having been in after-times the reſidence of Sir Drue Drury.

ST. GILES'S, CRIPPLEGATE.ON approaching Cripplegate, is the church of St. Egidius, St. Giles. That name always imports ſomething of beggary: accordingly, this gate received its name from the number of cripples and beggars, with which it was haunted formerly. St. Giles was their patron; he was a noble Athenian, and of ſo great charity as at [227] length to give away the very coat he wore on his back, which he beſtowed on a ſick beggar; who, no ſooner put it on, but he was reſtored to health. The ſame legend relates alſo to St. Martin. He had in this very ſtreet a fraternity, founded by Henry V. who built here, for its uſe, a handſome houſe. In the church reſt from their labors ſome of my brethren; ſuch as John Speed, JOHN SPEED. the famous Engliſh hiſtorian and topographer; and Robert Glover, ROBERT GLOVER. Somerſet herald, an indefatigable ſearcher of antiquities; and the zealous John Fox, the famous martyrologiſt.JOHN FOX.

NOT far from this church, within the walls, in Monkwell-ſtreet, BARBER SURGEONS-HALL. ſtands Barber Surgeons-hall; which is eſteemed one of the beſt works of Inigo Jones. The theatre, for the operations, is elliptical, and finely contrived. Since the ſeparation of the company of the ſurgeons from that of the barbers, the building is in a manner deſerted. Originally the chirurgic art, and that of ſhaving, went, in this city, hand in hand, as they do to this day in ſeveral parts of Europe. The barbers were firſt incorporated by Edward IV. in 1461; but, prior to that, they had been formed into a body by Thomas Moreſtead, ſurgeon to Henry IV, V, and VI, who died in 1450: and the grant had been ſolicited by him, Jacques Fries, phyſician to Edward IV, and John Hobbes, his phyſician and ſurgeon: at length it was incorporated by that prince, and his brother Gloceſter, in the name of St. Coſme and Damianus, brethren, phyſicians, and martyrs. The company proſpered for ſome time, till, finding that numbers had crept in among them, leſs ſkilled in the lancet than the razor, from the want of power of examining into the ſkill of the chirurgical members, they obtained a new charter from Henry VIII. in which both profeſſions were united. A fine picture by Holbein, PICTURE BY HOLBEIN. preſerved in this [228] hall, commemorates the event. Henry, in all his bluffneſs of majeſty, is repreſented giving them their new charter: among them is Doctor Butts, immortalized by Shakeſpeare, in his play of Henry VIII. There are ſeventeen of the company repreſented. I refer to the Gentleman's Magazine, for April, 1789, for their names. I may mention what the inquiſitive author hath omitted; that John Chambre, phyſician to Henry VIII. was in orders, and was dean of the royal chapel and college, adjoining to Weſtminſter-hall: and that Thomas Vycary, was a citizen of London, and ſerjeant ſurgeon to Henry VIII. * and the three ſucceeding ſovereigns. Aylif is another, who had been ſheriff of London, and a merchant of Blackwell-hall. I relate part of his ſtory from his epitaph:

In ſurgery brought up in youth,
A knight here lieth dead;
A knight, and eke a ſurgeon, ſuch
As England ſeld hath bred.
For which ſo ſoveraigne gift of God,
Wherein he did excell;
King Henry VIII. call'd him to court,
Who lov'd him dearly well.
King Edward, for his ſervice ſake,
Bade him riſe up a knight;
A name of praiſe, and ever ſince
He Sir John Ailife hight .

BY this charter, barbers were not to practiſe ſurgery, farther than drawing of teeth: and ſurgeons were ſtrictly prohibited from [229] the feat or craft of barbery, or ſhaving. Uſe was to make both perfect. But by the year 1745, it having been diſcovered, that the above arts were foreign to, and independent of each other, the barbers and the ſurgeons were, by act of parlement, ſeparated, and made diſtinct corporations. It was very fit that an aſſociation, which was now become ludicrous, ſhould be diſſolved: our ſurgeons began at that period to riſe into great fame. True it is, that pupils then went to Paris to improve in the art: at preſent, Europe looks up to our ſurgeons as on the ſummit of the profeſſion.

IT will be curious to turn back from theſe times to thoſe of Henry VIII. to compare the ſtate of ſurgery: when at one time there were very few, as Gale tells us, worthy to be called ſurgeons. His account of thoſe employed in the army is very humorous. "I remember," ſays he, ‘when I was in the wars at Muttrel (Montreuil) in the time of that moſt famous prince king Henry VIII. there was a great rabblement, that took on them to be ſurgeons: ſome were ſow-gelders, and ſome horſe-gelders, with tinkers, and coblers. This noble ſect did ſuch great cures, that they got themſelves a perpetual name; for, like as Theſſalus's ſect were called Theſſalions, ſo was this noble rabblement, for their notorious cures, called Dog-leaches; for in two dreſſings they did commonly make their cures whole and found for ever; ſo that they neither felt heat nor cold, nor no manner of pain after. But when the duke of Norfolk, who was then general, underſtood how the people did die, and that of ſmall wounds, he ſent for me, and certain other ſurgeons, commanding us to make ſearch how theſe men came to their death; whether it were by the grievouſneſs of their wounds, or by the lack of knowledge of the ſurgeons; and we, according [230] to our commandment, made ſearch through all the camp; and found many of the ſame good fellows, which took upon them the names of ſurgeons; not only the names, but the wages alſo. We aſking of them whether they were ſurgeons or no, they ſaid they were; we demanded with whom they were brought up, and they, with ſhameleſs faces, would anſwer, either with one cunning man, or another, which was dead. Then we demanded of them what chirurgery ſtuff they had to cure men withal; and they would ſhew us a pot, or a box, which they had in a budget; wherein was ſuch trumpery as they did uſe to greaſe horſes heels withal, and laid upon ſcabbed horſes backs, with rewal, and ſuch like. And others, that were coblers and tinkers, they uſed ſhoe-maker's wax, with the ruſt of old pans, and made therewithal a noble ſalve, as they did term it. But in the end, this worthy rabblement was committed to the Marſhalſea, and threatened, by the duke's grace, to be hanged for their worthy deeds, except they would declare the truth what they were, and of what occupations; and in the end they did confeſs, as I have declared to you before *.’ I muſt not overlook another picture:DR. SCARBOROUGH. it is of Doctor Scarborough, afterwards Sir Charles, phyſician to Charles II. James II. and king William. He was early appointed, by the College of Phyſicians, to read anatomical lectures at this hall. He is dreſſed in the red gown, hood, and cap, of a doctor in phyſic; and is in the attitude of ſpeaking: one hand on his breaſt, the other a little ſtretched out. On the left is another figure, the demonſtrating ſurgeon, dreſſed in the livery-gown of the city of London; whoſe buſineſs it [231] was to handle and ſhew the parts of the diſſected bodies. Accordingly, he holds up the arm of a dead body, placed on a table, partly covered with a ſheet, with the ſternum naked, and laid bare, and the pectoral muſcles appearing. He read theſe lectures with great applauſe ſixteen or ſeventeen years; and deſervedly attained the character of the ableſt phyſician of his time, of great abilities and extenſive learning *. He died in 1693. I never ſaw the elegy on Mr. Cowley, imputed to him by Mr. Granger: but the poet left one on his friend and phyſician, which he concludes with this advice:

Some hours at leaſt on thy own pleaſures ſpare,
Since the whole ſtock may ſoon exhauſted be.
Beſtow't not all in charitie.
Let Nature and let Art do what they pleaſe,
When all is done, Life's an incurable diſeaſe.

To the north-eaſt of this hall, near St. Alphage's church,SION COLLEGE. oppoſite to the weſtern wall, is Sion College, founded on the ſite of Elſing Hoſpital or priory , by Thomas White, rector of St. Dunſtan's in the weſt, in the reign of queen Elizabeth; who gave three [232] thouſand pounds for the purchaſe and building the college. It is governed by a preſident, two deans, and four aſſiſtants, annually choſen: and all the clergy of London, and its ſuburbs, are fellows. They have under their care alms-houſes for ten poor men, and as many women. John Sympſon, rector of St. Olave's, who ſuperintended the building *, added, at his own expence, for the uſe of the ſtudious part of the London clergy, a library one hundred and twenty feet long; and amply filled with books. The original hoſpital was founded by William Elſing, mercer, in 1329 (on the ſite of a decayed nunnery) for the ſupport of a hundred blind men. He afterwards changed it into a priory, and became himſelf the firſt prior; who, with four canons regular, were to ſuperintend the miſerable objects.

GRUD-STREET.I PASS by Cripplegate, by the ſouth ends of Whitecroſs-ſtreet, and Grub-ſtreet: the laſt celebrated for the (ſuppoſed) reſidence of authors of the leſs fortunate tribe, and the trite jeſt of the more favored. In this ſame ſtreet dwelt John Fox, above-mentioned: and the very remarkable Henry Welby, eſq of Lincolnſhire, who lived in his houſe, in this ſtreet, forty-four years, without ever being ſeen by any human being. He was to the hour of his death, (October 29th, 1636) poſſeſſed of a large eſtate; but an attempt being made on his life, by his ungrateful younger brother, he took the frantic reſolution, thus to ſeclude himſelf from the world. He paſſed his days in moſt exemplary charity. His management, in his ſtrange retreat, is too long to relate: the curious reader will find the whole in the 369th page of the Phoenix Britannicus.

THE Fletchers, Bowyers, Bowſtring-makers, and of every thing [233] relating to archery, inhabited, in old times, this ſtreet. It is the laſt ſtreet, in this part of the town, which was in being about the time of Aggas's map: all beyond (as far as Biſhopſgate-ſtreet without) were gardens, fields, or moraſs: the laſt the original ſtate of this part of the preſent London. FINSBURY, AND MOORFIELD [...]. This tract was in the manor of Finſbury, or rather Fenſbury; and, in the days of the hiſtorian Fitzſtephen, was an errant fen; of which he gives the following account, in his deſcription of the paſtimes of the citizens, in his time; in which is given the aukward ſubſtitute of the ſkate. "And," ſays the hiſtorian, ‘when that vaſt lake, which waters the walls of the city towards the north, is hard frozen, the youth in great numbers go to divert themſelves on the ice; ſome taking a ſmall run, for an increment of velocity, place their feet at a proper diſtance, and are carried ſliding ſideways a great way. Others will make a large cake of ice, and, ſeating one of their companions upon it, they take hold of one's hands and draw him along, when it happens, that, moving ſwiftly on ſo ſlippery a plain, they all fall headlong. Others there are who are ſtill more expert in theſe amuſements on the ice; they place certain bones, the leg-bones of animals, under the ſoles of their feet, by tying them round their ankles, and then, taking a pole ſhod with iron into their hands, they puſh themſelves forward by ſtriking it againſt the ice, and are carried on with a velocity equal to the flight of a bird, or a bolt diſcharged from a croſsbow *.’

ON the north part of theſe fields ſtood the Dogge-houſe, DOG-HOUSE. in which were kept the hounds for the amuſement of the lord mayor. [234] Here reſided the Common Hunt, an officer, the ſecond in rank among thoſe who formed the Praetorian eſtabliſhment: Maſter Sword-bearer alone took place of him: Maſter Common Hunt followed him, and was to wait for his lordſhip's commands, on Mondays, Wedneſdays, Fridays, and Saturdays *.

IT was, in the time of Edward II. of ſo little value, that the whole was let at the rent of four marks a year. It could only be paſſed over on cauſeways, raiſed for the benefit of travellers. In 1414, Thomas Fauconer, mayor, opened the poſtern in the wall, called Moorgate, MOORGATE. to give the citizens a paſſage into the country. He alſo began to drain this watery tract. In 1512, Roger Atchley, mayor, made further progreſs in the work . Succeſſive attempts brought the ground into the ſtate we ſee it at preſent: moſt part of which, except the ſtill-neglected Moorfields, is covered with ſtreets.

BETHLEM, OR BEDLAM.BETWEEN Biſhopſgate and Moorfields ſtood the hoſpital of St. Mary of Bethlem; founded by Simon Fitz-mary, ſheriff of London, in 1247, for a prior, canons, brethren, and ſiſters, of a peculiar order; ſubject to the viſitation of the biſhop of Bethlem. They were to be dreſſed in a black habit, and diſtinguiſhed by a ſtar on their breaſt . In 1403 moſt of the houſes belonging to this hoſpital were alienated, and only the maſter left, who did not wear the habit of the order. It ſeems to have been inſtituted for the reception and cure of lunatics: and had dependent on it ſome leſſer houſes. Stow mentions one in St. Martin's in the Fields: but a [235] certain king, diſliking that perſons under ſuch unhappy circumſtances ſhould be ſo near the royal palace, cauſed them to be removed to Bethlem, without Biſhopſgate. In 1523, Stephen Gennings, merchant-taylor, with great humanity left by will forty pounds towards the purchaſing of this hoſpital for the reception of lunatics. The mayor and commonalty had taken ſome ſteps to execute his deſign: but in 1545 were prevented by the munificence of their monarch, who beſtowed it on the city of London, when it was converted to the humane purpoſe of receiving perſons laboring under this moſt dreadful of maladies. At firſt (the medical relief excepted) their expences were borne by their friends, or their pariſhes; but this edifice being found too ſmall, and growing ruinous, in 1675 the lord mayor and aldermen, removing the ſite to the preſent place, began the noble hoſpital we now ſee; and, great as it is, finiſhed it in the next year, at the expence of ſeventeen thouſand pounds. The front and wings extend five hundred and forty feet; and make a magnificent appearance. It was built on the plan of the palace of the Tuilleries, at Paris. Louis XIV. was ſo incenſed that his palace ſhould be made the model for a lunatic hoſpital, that it was ſaid, he ordered a plan of the palace of our monarch at St. James's to be taken, for offices of the vileſt nature *.

THE humanity of our nation, in 1734, was the cauſe that two large wings were added for the reception of incurables, of which there were lately one hundred, in that terrible ſtate, maintained within theſe walls. The whole number of diſtracted people, admitted in the laſt year, was two hundred and twenty-eight; cured [236] and diſcharged, a hundred and eighty-nine; buried, fourteen; remained under cure two hundred and eighty.

OVER the gates are two capital figures, of raving and melancholy Madneſs, the work of Caius Gabriel Cibber, the father of the admirable comedian and wit Colley Cibber. Pope ſatirizes himſelf, when he makes theſe fine figures the mere vehicle of abuſe on the ſon, by calling them ‘His brazen brainleſs brothers.’ But Colley Cibber, after very long-ſuffering, took ample revenge, in a ſhort but bitter Philippic againſt our great poet; which touched his pride ſo much as to contribute to bring him ſpeedily to the grave.

ST LUKE's HOSPITAL.OPPOSITE to Bethlem Hoſpital, on the north ſide of Moorfields, ſtood the hoſpital of St. Luke, a long plain building, till of late appropriated to the ſame purpoſes, but totally independant of the former. It was founded on the humane conſideration that Bethlem was incapable of receiving all the miſerable objects which were offered. Of late years, the patients were removed from the old hoſpital, to a new one, erected under the ſame name, in Old-ſtreet, on the plan of the former, extending in front three hundred and ninety-three feet. Since the firſt admiſſion of patients, on July 30th, 1751, to the ſame day 1787, three thouſand ſix hundred and ſeventy-five have been admitted: of which ſixteen hundred and ſixty-eight have been diſcharged cured: and twelve hundred and two uncured. The old hoſpital is now pulled down, and replaced by a handſome row of houſes. By a very liberal regulation, uncured patients may be taken in again, on the payment of five ſhillings a week: ſo that their friends may, if they [237] pleaſe, try a ſecond time the force of medicine on their unhappy relations or connections.

THE pariſh of St. Luke's was taken out of that of St. Giles's Cripplegate, by an act in his late majeſty's reign. I mention it merely to direct the reader's attention to the ſteeple of the new church, which terminates moſt ſingularly in a fluted obeliſc.

ON the weſt ſide of Moorfields is the Artillery Ground: ARTILLERY GROUND. a large piece of ground laid out for the purpoſe of proving the artillery; and for exerciſing the military belonging to the city. It was originally in Biſhopſgate-ſtreet, where ſome land belonging to the priory of St. Mary Spittle was uſed for the ſame purpoſe. William, laſt prior of this houſe, granted it, for three ninety-nine years, to the fraternity of artillery, or the gunners of the Tower, for the practice of great and ſmall ordnance; and was long called the Artillery Garden. This ſociety was greatly patroniſed by Henry VIII: his daughter Elizabeth favored it in a high degree; as became a princeſs whoſe dominions were threatened with perpetual invaſion from her potent rival. The earl of Warwick (Ambroſe Dudley) was maſter of the ordnance; under him, but more particularly under William Thomas, maſter gunner of the queen's ſhip the Victory, in 1584, the art was flung into ſyſtem. Thomas propoſed to the council, that the charter granted to the Fraternity by Henry ſhould be confirmed, and that the earl of Warwick ſhould be governor; and that a certain number of able gunners ſhould be appointed to inſtruct in the art, and that none ſhould be appointed to any of her majeſty's ſhips or forts, but whom they ſhould approve. This plan was rejected: and the ground remained to the gunners of the Tower *.

[238] ARTILLERY COMPANY.IN 1585 a new military ſociety aroſe in the city; which, in thoſe affrighted times, finding itſelf grievouſly harraſſed by continual muſters and exerciſing of men, found a remedy in the gallant ſpirit of ſeveral of the citizens. A number (among whom were many ſkilful officers, who had ſerved with credit abroad) formed themſelves into a reſpectable body of volunteers, exerciſed themſelves, and trained others to the art of war. Within two years there were near three hundred merchants, and others, capable of training and teaching ſoldiers the management of their pieces, pikes, and halbards; to march, counter-march, and ring. They made a conſiderable figure at the camp at Tilbury, in the celebrated year 1588. After that time, this uſeful diſcipline was neglected; but in 1610 it revived, and the volunteers became ſo numerous as to amount in time to ſix thouſand men. The old place of exerciſe being too ſmall for the purpoſe, they removed to the New Artillery Ground. In the year 1614, there was a general muſter; and the citizens, bravely furniſhed, under twenty captains, made a moſt creditable appearance. In 1622 they began to build on one ſide an armoury, which is excellently ſupplied. Charles II. when prince, and his brother James duke of York, entered into this company: and on the Reſtoration the duke himſelf took the command, and called it his own company. The preſident, and other officers, conſiſt of the leading perſons in the city: and one of the royal family is captain-general. It conſiſts of three hundred men.

BESIDES this military force, the city has ſix regiments of militia, commanded by gentlemen of the firſt rank in the city: theſe are under a lieutenancy peculiar to London; and are exerciſed.

IT was this body, then known by the name of the Trained-bands, [239] which decided the fate of the civil war of the laſt century. On every occaſion they behaved with the ſpirit and perſeverance of the moſt veteran troops. They were commanded by Skippon, captain of the Artillery Garden, who had ſerved long in Holland; and raiſed himſelf from a common ſoldier to the rank of captain, and proved himſelf an excellent officer. From the ſervice he had been in, he came over with full prejudice againſt church and ſtate, ſo was greatly in the confidence of his party *. He was totally illiterate; but his ſpeeches to his ſoldiers had more weight in their ears than the fineſt oratory. On marching to join the earl of Eſſex, this was his ſpeech: ‘Come, my boys, my brave boys, let us pray heartily, and fight heartily: I will run the ſame fortune and hazards with you. Remember the cauſe is for GOD, and for the defence of yourſelves, your wives, and children. Come, my honeſt brave boys, pray heartily and fight heartily, and GOD will bleſs you .’

ON the back of Bethlem hoſpital is a long ſtreet,LONDON WALL. called London Wall, from being bounded on the north by a long extent of the wall, in which are here and there a few traces of the Roman maſonry.

A SMALL walk brought me to Biſhopſgate-ſtreet Without. DEVONSHIRE-SQUARE. On the eaſt ſide is Devonſhire-ſquare: the earls of Devonſhire had a town-houſe near the ſtreet, which was called after their name. William, the ſecond earl, died in it in 1628. It was originally built by Jaſper Fiſher, a clerk in Chancery. Stow calls it a large and beautiful houſe, with gardens of pleaſure, bowling-allies, and [240] the like. His vanity ruined him, and his houſe got the name of Fiſher's Folly. It had a quick ſucceſſion of owners. It belonged to Mr. Cornwallis; to Sir Roger Manners; and to Edward earl of Oxford, lord high chamberlain *, the ſame who is recorded to have preſented to queen Elizabeth the firſt perfumed gloves ever brought into England. Her majeſty lodged in this houſe in one of her viſits to the city: probably when this gallant peer was owner. After him it fell to the Cavendiſhes; but that they reſided in this neighborhood long before is to be ſuppoſed, as their anceſtor, Thomas Cavendiſh, treaſurer of the exchequer to Henry VIII. interred his wife in St. Botolph's, the pariſh church: and by will, dated April 13th, 1523, bequeaths a legacy towards its repairs .

NEAR it was another fair houſe, built by one of our nobility, lord John Powlet ; I conjecture, an anceſtor of the duke of Bolton. I imagine him to have been the ſecond marquis of Wincheſter, before he came to his title.

ST. MARY SPITTLE.ON the eaſt ſide of the north end of this ſtreet ſtood the priory and hoſpital of St. Mary Spittle; founded, in 1197, by Walter Brune, ſheriff of London, and Roſia his wife, for canons regular of the order of St. Auguſtine. It was noted for its pulpit croſs, at which a preacher was wont to preach a ſermon conſolidated out of four others, which had been preached at St. Paul's Croſs, on Good Friday, and the Monday, Tueſday, and Wedneſday in Eaſter week; and then to give a ſermon of his own. At all which ſermons the mayor and aldermen were to attend, dreſſed on each occaſion in different colored robes. This cuſtom continued till [241] the deſtruction of church government, in the civil wars of the laſt century. At the diſſolution, here were found not fewer than a hundred and fourſcore beds, well furniſhed for the reception of the poor *.

THE great population of this part of the town, called Spittle-fields, was owing to the bleſſed proſecutions of the Hugonots, in the reign of Louis le Grand; who ſent thouſands of his induſtrious ſubjects into our kingdom, to transfer to his bittereſt enemies the arts and manufactures of his own kingdom. They flouriſhed in this place to a great degree: at preſent they ſuffer a temporary depreſſion from the giddineſs of faſhion, which, of late, prefers the vegetable material of cotton, to that produced from the antient ſilkworm .

IN April 1559, queen Elizabeth viſited St. Mary Spittle in great ſtate; poſſibly to hear a ſermon given from the croſs. She was attended by a thouſand men in harneſs, with ſhirts of mail, and corſlets, and morice pikes , and ten great pieces carried through London unto the court, with drums and trumpets ſounding, and two morice-dancings, and in a cart two white bears.

IN 1617, numbers of lords, and others of the king's moſt honorable privy council (his majeſty being then in Scotland) heard a ſermon preached here by the Reverend Doctor Page, of Deptford; and afterwards rode with the lord mayor, Sir John Leman, fiſhmonger, to his houſe near Billingſgate, where they [242] were entertained with a moſt ſplendid dinner *. In honor of Sir John, and his brother fiſhmongers, Anthony Monday wrote his Chryſonaleia, or Golden Fiſhing.

BISHOPSGATE-STREET WITHOUT.BISHOPSGATE-STREET WITHOUT, extends to Shoreditch, a long ſtreet, not named from Shore, the huſband of the ill-fated Jane Shore, but from its lord, Sir John de Sordich, a perſon deeply ſkilled in the laws, and much truſted by Edward III. and who was ſent by him, in 1343, to the pope Clement VI. to remonſtrate to his holineſs againſt his clame of preſenting to Engliſh livings, and filling them with foreigners, who never reſided on their cures, and drained the kingdom of its wealth. This, it may be eaſily ſuppoſed, the pope took much amiſs; inſomuch that Sir John thought it beſt to make a ſpeedy retreat . It appears likewiſe that this knight was a very valiant man, and ſerved the king with his ſword, as well as his tongue.

LONG after, Shoreditch acquired much fame from another great man, Barlo, an inhabitant of this place, and a citizen; who acquired ſuch honor as an archer, by his ſucceſs in a ſhooting-match at Windſor, before Henry VIII. that the king named him on the ſpot Duke of Shoreditch. For a great ſeries of years after this, the captain of the archers of London retained the title. On the 17th of September, 1583, the Duke (at the expence of the city) had a magnificent trial of ſkill: he ſent a ſummons to all his officers, and chief nobility, with all their train of archery in and about London, to be ready to accompany him to Smithfield. In obedience, appeared the marquis of Barlo, and the marquis of [243] Clerkenwell, with hunters who wound their horns: the marquiſes of Iſlington, Hogsden, Pankridge, and Shacklewell, who marched with all their train fantaſtically habited. Near a thouſand had gold chains; and all were gorgeouſly attired. The ſum of archers were three thouſand; their guards, with bills, four thouſand; beſides pages and henchmen. And the duke ſallied out to meet them from Merchant Taylors hall *, to exhibit ſuch a ſight that was never ſeen before, nor ever will again: unleſs a combination of the modern ſocieties of archers ſhould treat the capital with the revival of this antient and worthy pageantry.

THE building of Biſhopſgate, which divides the ſtreet,BISHOPSGATE. is attributed to Erkenwald, elected biſhop of London in 675: the reparation of it, to William, prelate at the time of the Conqueſt. Henry III. confirmed to the Hans merchants certain privileges, for which they were bound to ſupport this gate. Accordingly, in 1479, it was elegantly rebuilt by them. In memory of the founder, and the firſt repairer, there were two ſtatues of biſhops: and beſides, two others, conjectured to have been deſigned for Alfred, and Aeldred earl of Mercia, to whoſe care that great prince had committed the gate.

NOT far without the gate ſtands an inn or tavern,WHITE HART. called the White Hart, of moſt antient date, not leſs than 1480, which is ſtill perpetuated in large figures in the front: but none of the original building appears to be left. I believe there are but very few houſes in London remaining, of greater age than the time of queen Elizabeth, or James I. The great fire almoſt entirely deſtroyed thoſe in the city. In Holborn, Broad St. Giles's, and St. John's [244] Lane, Clerkenwell, are ſome old houſes: in Catherine Wheel Alley, in this ſtreet, is a very old houſe in a ruinous ſtate: and there are ſome alſo about Temple-bar. It is no wonder that we have ſo few; till about the year 1200 there were very few ſtone houſes, and none tiled or ſlated: they were built with wood, and thatched with ſtraw or reeds. In the year 1189, Richard I. ordered that they ſhould be built with ſtone to a certain height, and that they ſhould be covered with ſlate or burnt tile. This order was repeated, but it was long before it was obeyed. This is not much to be wondered at; for, above a century afterwards, ſuch ſimplicity reigned, that one Peter Spileman made fine for his lands to Edward II. to find (among other things) litter for the king's bed, and hay for his horſe *.

HOUND [...]DITCH.I WILL continue my journey eaſtward from Biſhopſsgate. On the outſide, parallel to the walls, runs Houndſditch, now a long ſtreet, formerly a filthy ditch; which took its name from being the place into which dead dogs, and all manner of dirt was thrown. Into it, as worthy of no better ſepulture, was thrown the noble Edric, the murderer of his maſter Edmund Ironſide; after having been drawn by his heels from Baynard's-caſtle, and tormented to death by burning torches. Here it was cuſtomary for pious people to walk, on purpoſe to relieve the bed-ridden, who lay on a ground floor, covered with a neat cloth, and with a pair of beads, to ſhew to charitable paſſengers their helpleſs ſituation, and that they were incapable of doing more than pray for them.

DUKE'S PLACE.DUKE'S PLACE is a conſiderable place, much inhabited by the Jews: it ſtands on the ſite of the priory of the Holy Trinity, or [245] Chriſt-church; founded, in 1108, by Matilda, wife to Henry I:PRIORY OF CHRIST-CHURCH. the prior was always an alderman of London, and of Portſoken ward; who, if he happened to be exceedingly pious, appointed a ſubſtitute to tranſact temporal matters. Norman was the firſt prior; and he and his ſucceſſors rode, on ſolemn days, with the aldermen, but in their monaſtic habits. This is ſaid to have been the richeſt priory in England; and poſſibly for that reaſon was ſelected to be the firſt which was diſſolved *. Henry VIII. granted it to Sir Thomas Audley, afterwards lord chancellor of England; who inhabited the priory, and died there in 1554. By the marriage of his daughter and ſole heireſs Margaret, to Thomas duke of Norfolk, it was conveyed into the Howard family; and received the name of Duke's Place. In 1562, he rode through the city with his dutcheſs, to his reſidence here, attended by a hundred horſe in his livery, with his gentlemen before him in coats guarded with velvet, preceded by the four heralds, Clarencieux, Somerſet, Red Croſs, and Blue Mantle. So reſpectable was the appearance of our ancient nobility.

TWO gateways, and ſome parts of the ruins of this priory, may be ſtill traced, enveloped in more modern buildings: ſome of the ſouth tranſept may be diſcovered in certain houſes; from which it appears that the architecture was of the round arch, or Saxon ſtyle .

A CURIOUS inveſtigator of antiquities hath lately recovered the beautiful little chapel of St. Michael, near Aldgate, under the houſe of Mr. Relph, in Leadenhall-ſtreet . It is ſuppoſed to have [246] been built by prior Norman, about the year 1108, in the gothic architecture. Its dimenſions are forty-eight feet by ſixteen; and is built with ſquare pieces of chalk. The arches are very elegant, ſupported by ribs, which converge, and meet on the capitals of the pillars; which are now nearly buried in the earth; but are ſuppoſed to be covered with ſixteen feet of ſoil. The whole addition of ſoil, ſince its foundation, is ſuppoſed to have been twenty-ſix feet; an amazing increaſe, which might almoſt occaſion one to ſuſpect it to have been the ſub-chapel of ſome now-loſt church.

THE church of St. James, Duke's Place, roſe out of the ruins of this priory, in the time of James I. and the mayoralty of Sir Edward Barkham.

ALDGATE.EALDGATE, or Aldgate, which ſignifies Old Gate, ſtands in the place where the wall forms an angle, and takes a ſoutherly direction, and terminated in a poſtern near Tower-hill. It was one of the four principal gates; the Roman road paſſed under it, ſo one muſt have exiſted on the ſite in the earlieſt times. It was alſo one of the ſeven that had double doors, as was evident by the hinges, which exiſted in the time of Stow. Mention is made of it in the reign of Edgar, by the name of Ealdgate. In the fierce wars between king John and his barons, the latter entered the city through this gate, and committed great ravages among the houſes of the religious. Their chieftains repaired, or rather rebuilt Aldgate, after the Norman manner; and made uſe of ſtone brought from Caen, and a ſmall brick called the Flanders tile, which probably has been often miſtaken for Roman. This gate was of great ſtrength, and, what was peculiar to it, had a deep well within.

IN 1471, the Baſtard Falconbridge, at the head of five thouſand [247] riotous people, attacked the city on this ſide, won this gate, and forced a way in for a few of his forces; but, the portcullis being let down, they were all ſlain. The valiant alderman of the ward, and the recorder, ordered it to be drawn up, and ſallying forth, defeated the Baſtard with great ſlaughter. In 1606, this gate was taken down and rebuilt, under the care of Martin Bond, aforementioned: as a proof of its antiquity, many Roman coins were found among the foundations.

IMMEDIATELY without the gate, is the church of St. Botolph's,ST. BOTOLPH'S, ALDGATE. Aldgate. This is one of four dedicated, in London, to this favorite ſaint. In it is the vault of the Darcies, of the north; and the tomb of Thomas lord Darcie, knight of the Garter; with his figure on it, repreſenting him aſleep, with a ſhroud wrapped round him; his face, breaſt, and arms naked. The figure is at preſent deformed by freſh painting, and the inſcription rendered illegible. This nobleman, diſliking the innovations in religious matters, took a ſecret part in the inſurrection called the Pilgrimage of grace: and, in conjunction with the archbiſhop of York, was ſuppoſed to have given up to Aſke, chief of the malecontents, the caſtle of Pontefract, on very frivolous pretences. He loſt his head on Tower-hill, in 1537, and was interred in this church. He had been in high favor with the king; was entruſted by him, in 1510, with fifteen hundred archers, and four great ſhips, to aſſiſt Ferdinand againſt the Moors of Africa; but that monarch, having brought his deſigns to ſucceed to his wiſh, diſmiſſed lord Darcie and his forces with rich rewards *.

HERE alſo was buried another victim to the unrelenting Henry, [248] Sir Nichol's Carew, his maſter of the horſe, and knight of the Garter. This gentleman was charged with nothing more than of being of council with Henry Courtney, marquis of Exeter, for the imaginary plot of depoſing his maſter, and making cardinal Pole king in his ſtead: for this, on March 3d, 1538, he ſuffered on Tower-hill. By the inſtructions of his keeper, he imbibed the principles of the reformers, and died profeſſing their religion.

HOUSE OF JOHN STOW.NEAR Aldgate lived and died the able hiſtorian John Stow. He relates a cruel execution on a gibbet, erected on the pavement before his houſe, on the bailiff of Rumford, in the time of Edward VI. In that age there were moſt barbarous and tyrannous puniſhments, by martial law, againſt all ſpreaders of rumors. The times were turbulent, but ſlighter penalties than death might have ſufficed. The unhappy man, on the ladder, declared, in the preſence of our hiſtorian, ‘That he knew not for what offence he was brought to die, "except for words by me ſpoken yeſternight to Sir Stephen, curate and preacher of this pariſh; which were theſe. He aſked me, What news in the countrey? I anſwered, Heavy newes. Why, quoth he? It is ſayd, quoth I, that many men bee up in Eſſex; but, thanks be to God, all is in good quiet about us. And this was all, as God be my judge." Upon theſe words of the priſoner, Sir Stephen, to avoide the reproach of the people, left the citie, and never was heard of ſince among them to my knowledge.’ —I ſhall have farther occaſion to ſpeak of Sir Stephen, who was a fanatical firebrand of thoſe days.

WHITECHAPEL.ON the outſide of the gate, begins the long ſtreet and ſuburbs of Whitechapel. The church ſtands very diſtant from the entrance into the ſtreet. It was originally a chapel of eaſe to Stepney, and [249] known, as early as the year 1336, by the name of the church of St. Mary Matfelon; which is ſaid to ſignify, in the Hebrew, Mary lately delivered of her holy child: as the townſhip was ſtyled Villa Beatae Mariae de Matfelon *. It is now a very rich rectory, in the gift of Brazen-noſe College, Oxford.

IN this pariſh ſome of our nobility had formerly their villas, for the ſake of the country air. Here Cromwel earl of Eſſex, the ſhort-lived miniſter of Henry VIII. had a houſe; and the famous Gondamor retired here, when diſengaged from his bubble, James I.

PARALLEL to the walls, between Aldgate and the Tower, MINORIES; is the ſtreet called the Minories; named from certain poor ladies of the order of St. Clare, or minoreſſes, who had been invited into England by Blanch queen of Navarre, wife to Edmund earl of Lancaſter; who, in 1293, founded here, for their reception, a convent. On its ſuppreſſion it was converted into a dwelling-houſe, and granted by the king to ſeveral great people, who inhabited it. The biſhops of Bath and Wells once had it, in lieu of their manſion in the Strand: and in 1552, Henry Grey, duke of Suffolk, poſſeſſed it by patent from Edward VI. On his attainder it reverted to the crown, in which it continued till the Reſtoration. Soon after, a new houſe was built on it, called the King's, for what reaſon is unknown. Charles granted it to Colonel William Legge, who reſided there, died in it in 1672, and was buried from thence, with great funeral pomp, in the adjoining church, that of Trinity Minories: and his deſcendants, of the Dartmouth family, ſtill continue to make it the place of their interment.

[250] NOW A FINE STREET.THIS ſtreet, from being as deſpicable as any in the city, has of late years been moſt excellently rebuilt; is filled with ſeveral ſpacious ſhops; is become a fine ſtreet; and, on one ſide, has its ſquare, its circus, and its creſcent.

GOODMAN'S FIELDS.BEHIND this ſtreet is Goodman's Fields, or rather ſquare. Stow, in his ſimple manner, tells, that in his time one Trolop, and afterwards Goodman, were the farmers there; and that the ‘fields were a farme belonging to the ſaid nunrie; at the which farme I myſelfe (ſays he) in my youth, have fetched manye a halfe peny worth of milk, and never had leſſe then 3 ale pints for a halfe penny in the ſummer, nor leſſe then one ale quart for a halfe penny in the winter, alwaies hot from the kine *.’

THE theatre in Goodman's Fields will always be remembered by my cotemporaries, as the ſtage where Garrick firſt ſhewed thoſe powers, which, for ſuch a number of years, aſtoniſhed and charmed the public: his firſt appearance was on October 19th, 1741. One Odel founded the playhouſe in this ſquare, in 1728. As Sir John Hawkins expreſſes it, a halo of brothels ſoon incircled that, as it does all theatres: and drove away the induſtrious inhabitants. This theatre was rebuilt, in an expenſive manner, by Henry Giffard, in 1737; but was ſuppreſſed by the excellent act for the licenſing of places of dramatical entertainment. Yet it was ſupported a few years by an evaſion, during which time, Mr. Garrick entered himſelf of the company. He drew an audience of nobility and gentry, whoſe carriages filled the whole ſpace from Temple-bar to Whitechapel .

[251]ON the weſt ſide of this portion of the walls,HOUSE OF CROSSED FRIARS; ſtood the houſe of the Crutched or Croſſed Friars, or Fratres ſanctae Crucis. The order was inſtituted, or at leſt reformed, about the year 1169, by Gerard, prior of St. Mary de Morello, at Bologna. They aſtoniſhed the Engliſh by appearing among them, in 1244, and requiring from the opulent, a houſe to live in, telling them they were privileged by the pope to be exempt from being reproached by any body; and that they had from him power to excommunicate thoſe who were hardy enough to reprove them. Two citizens, Ralph Hoſier, and William Sabernes, were wiſe enough to accommodate them with a houſe in this place, and became friars in it. Originally they carried in their hands an iron croſs, which they afterwards changed into one of ſilver. They wore a croſs, made of red cloth, on their garment; which at firſt was grey, and in later times altered to blue. One Adams was the firſt prior: Edmund Streatham, the laſt. Their annual income was only £. 52. 13 s. 4 d. Henry VIII. granted their houſe to Sir Thomas Wyat, GRANTED TO SIR THOMAS WYAT. the elder, who built a handſome manſion on part of the ſite. This was the gentleman whom Anthony Wood * (not without juſtice) calls the delight of the muſes, and of mankind. He had the honor to be in great intimacy with the congenial peer, Henry earl of Surry. They were the refiners of our poetry: the elegant effuſions of their muſes are united in a little book publiſhed in 1585, intitled, ‘Songes and Sonnets, by the right honorable Henry Howard, late earl of Surry, and others.’ Sir Thomas died in 1541, of a violent fever, in Dorſetſhire, contracted by hard riding to conduct to court the emperor's ambaſſador, who had landed at [252] Falmouth. He was highly celebrated by his noble friend, and by every perſon of genius in the age in which he lived.

LUMLEY-HOUSE.THIS houſe afterwards became the reſidence of John lord Lumley, a celebrated warrior in the time of Henry VIII; who diſtinguiſhed himſelf greatly at the battle of Floddon, by his valour, and the number of men he brought into the field. Notwithſtanding this, his zeal for the old religion engaged him in the Pilgrimage of Grace; from which he with much dexterity extricated himſelf and followers. But his only ſon ſoon after loſt his head, for his concern in a freſh inſurrection. John lord Lumley, grandſon of the firſt, was among the few nobility of that time who had a taſte for literature. He had the good fortune to marry his ſiſter Barbara to my illuſtrious countryman Humphrey Llwyd, of Denbigh *, and by his aſſiſtance formed a conſiderable library, which at preſent makes a moſt valuable part in the Britiſh Muſeum.

THE NAVY OFFICE.IN the place of this roſe the Navy Office, a building of no beauty; in which the comptroller of the navy uſed to reſide, and all buſineſs reſpecting the payment of ſeamen's wages, and many other naval matters, were tranſacted; but this office is now removed to Somerſet-houſe. In the place of the Old Navy Office, the India company have erected a moſt magnificent warehouſe, a regular oblong ſquare, of about two hundred and fifty feet, by a hundred and ſixty; incloſing a court of a hundred and fifty, by ſixty, entered by an arched gateway. This is the great repoſitory of the teas. I am told that the ſearchers, who have frequent occaſions to thruſt their arms deep into the cheſts, often feel numbneſſes and paralytic affections?

[253]THE friars hall was converted into a glaſs-houſe,A GLASS-HOUSE. for the making of drinking glaſſes; which, with forty thouſand billets of wood, was deſtroyed by fire, in 1575 *. The manufacture was ſet up in 1557, and was the firſt of the kind known in England. I may add here, that the fineſt flint glaſs was firſt made at the Savoy; and the firſt glaſs plates for looking-glaſſes, and coach windows, in 1673, at Lambeth, under the patronage of George Villiers, duke of Buckingham.

I FIND among the liſt of perſons interred in the church belonging to theſe friars, the name of Sir Rhys Gryffydd, a Welſhman, who loſt his head on Tower-hill, in 1531. His ſervant, John Hughes, was hanged at Tyburn the ſame afternoon . I cannot learn what their crime was, in a reign when very trifling matters, and often bare ſuſpicion, brought on a capital penalty.

NEAR this place ſtood another Northumberland-houſe, inhabited,NORTHUMBERLAND-HOUSE. in the reign of Henry VI. by two of the earls of Northumberland: one loſt his life in the battle of St. Albans; the other, his ſon, in that of Towton. Being deſerted by the Percies, the gardens were converted into bowling-allies, and other parts, ſays Stow, into dicing-houſes. This, I imagine, was the firſt of thoſe pernicious places of reſort, for he calls it ‘their antient and only patron of miſrule.’

IN Mark-lane, near this place, ſtood the magnificent houſe built by Sir William Sharrington, a chief officer of the mint,SHARRINGTON-HOUSE. in the reign of Edward VI. He was the inſtrument of the ambition [254] of Thomas Seymour, lord admiral: he fell with his maſter, was condemned and attained: and Sharrington-houſe beſtowed on the earl of Arundel, being thought a fit habitation for that great peer, on account of its ſize and ſplendor. Let me add, that Sir William was pardoned, emerged from his misfortunes, and ſoon raiſed another conſiderable eſtate, under the favor of Seymour's rival, Dudley duke of Northumberland *; poſſibly at the price of the admiral's blood, againſt whom he was chief evidence. Mr. WALPOLE has a drawing of Sir William, after Holbein.

ALL HALLOWS BARKING.AT the bottom of this lane, in Tower-ſtreet, ſtands the church of All Hallows Barking. Legend ſays, that Edward I. when prince of Wales, was admoniſhed, by a viſion, to erect an image here to the glorious virgin; and, in caſe he viſited it five times in the year, he was to be victorious over all nations, and in particular over Scotland and Wales. The image grew into great repute, and vaſt were the pilgrimages to it, till the ſuppreſſion. An indulgence of forty days was granted to every one who performed this act of devotion .

PERSONS BEHEADED BURIED THERE.IN this church were depoſited, for a time, the bodies of that accompliſhed nobleman Henry Howard , earl of Surry, and two prelates, who ended their days by the ax on Tower-hill. The aſhes of the ill-fated Surry were, in 1614, removed to Framlingham, in Suffolk. The pious Fiſher (whoſe head was placed on a pole on the bridge) and the indiſcreet Laud. The firſt was removed to the chapel in the Tower, to reſt by the ſide of his friend [255] Sir Thomas More *. The remains of Laud, beheaded in 1644, lay here till 1663, when they were removed to St. John's College, Oxford, over which he had preſided .

IN this pariſh was deſigned a hoſpital for poor prieſts, and for lunatics of both ſexes, as early as the time of Edward III; but not taking effect, it was granted to the hoſpital of St. Katherine; which was to find a chaplain to pray for the ſoul of Robert Denton, who had piouſly intended the firſt foundation .

FROM Aldgate the walls ran ſouthward to the Thames, and ended, as is generally ſuppoſed, with a fort; on the ſite of which aroſe the preſent TOWER of London. To the north of it was a poſtern, for the benefit of foot paſſengers: it was originally a fair and ſtrong gate, built of ſtone brought out of Kent, POSTERN GATE. and Caen in Normandy. It ſtood till the year 1440, when it fell down; not, as is conjectured, from the pulling down of three hundred feet of the adjacent wall in 1189, for the purpoſe of enlarging and ſtrengthening the Tower, but from decay;THE TOWER OF LONDON. it being made at the ſame time with that fortreſs, which was built by the Conqueror in his firſt year, and ſtrongly garriſoned with Normans, to ſecure the allegiance of his new and reluctant ſubjects.

THE firſt work ſeems to have been ſuddenly flung up in 1066, on his taking poſſeſſion of the capital: this included in it a part of the antient wall; for, ſoon after the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, a diſpute aroſe whether he was poiſoned in the liberties of the city, or in the county of Middleſex: on examination, part of the antient wall was diſcovered; and his apartment found to be [256] to the weſt of it, and in conſequence the criminals were tried within the juriſdiction of the city. Had it been on the other ſide, it would have been adjudged to have been within the county. There is another proof of this fortreſs having been built upon the remains of another more antient; for, in 1720, in digging on the ſouth ſide of what is called Ceſar's chapel, were diſcovered ſome old foundations of ſtone, three yards broad, ſo ſtrongly cemented that it was with the utmoſt difficulty they were forced up.

WHITE TOWER.THE great ſquare tower called the White Tower, and by the Welſh, Twr Gwyn, or Twr y Bryn-gwyn, was erected in the year 1078, when it aroſe under the directions of the great military architect Gundulph, biſhop of Rocheſter *; who gave this noble ſpecimen of innovation in the art of caſtle-building, and which was purſued by him in the execution of Rocheſter-caſtle, on the banks of the Medway. Stow tells us, from Edmund de Haddenham, that during the time Gundulph was employed in this work, he was lodged in the houſe of one Edmere, a citizen of London . This building was long dignified with the name of Ceſar's tower; but that illuſtrious invader probably never ſaw London: originally it ſtood by itſelf. Fitzſtephen gives it the name of Arx Palatina, the Palatine tower; and ſays, with his uſual romance, that the mortar of the foundation was tempered with the blood of beaſts. The commander had the title of Palatine beſtowed on him, being, as was the caſe with ſeveral of the great men of that time, who had places of importance truſted to their care, endowed with [257] regal powers; ſuch, for example, as the earl palatine, Hugh Lupus, had in the county palatinate of Cheſter *.

WITHIN this tower is a very antient chapel, for the uſe of ſuch of our kings and queens who wiſhed to pay their devotion here. By Stow's deſcription (for I never ſaw it) it ſeems coeval with the building: he deſcribed it as having a long flight of ſteps to it, as being darkſome, and venerable for the pillars, which are very plain; but that it was in his time filled with our valuable old records .

IN 1092 a violent tempeſt did great injury to the Tower; but it was repaired by William Rufus, and his ſucceſſor. The firſt added another caſtellated building on the ſouth ſide, between it and the Thames, which was afterwards called St. Thomas's Tower. Beneath that was Traitors-gate, through which ſtate priſoners were brought from the river: and under another, properly enough called The Bloody; for, till theſe happier ages, there was little difference between confinement, and the ſcaffold, or private aſſaſſination.

Ye towers of Julius, London's laſting ſhame,
With many a foul and midnight murder fed.

HERE fell the meek uſurper Henry VI. by the dagger of the profligate Glouceſter. Here, full of horrors, died,MURDERS WITHIN THE TOWER. by the hands of hired ruffians, the unſteady Clarence. Here the ſweet innocents Edward V. and his brother, duke of York, periſhed victims to the ambition of their remorſeleſs uncle. And the empoiſoning of Sir [258] Thomas Overbury makes up the ſum of the known murders, the reproaches of our antient fortreſs. We have here a ſtrait room or dungeon, called, from the miſery the unhappy occupier of this very confined place endures, the Little Eaſe. But this will appear a luxurious habitation, when compared with the inventions of the age of Louis XI. of France; with his iron cages, in which perſons of rank lay for whole years; or his Oubliettes, dungeons made in form of reverſed cones, concealed with trap-doors, down which dropped the unhappy victims of the tyrant, brought there by Triſtan l'Hermite, his companion and executioner in ordinary. Sometimes their ſides were plain, ſometimes ſet with knives, or ſharp-edged wheels; but in either caſe, they were true Oubliettes: the devoted were certain to fall into the land where all things were forgotten.

THE Tower was firſt incloſed by William Longchamp, biſhop of Ely, and chancellor of England, in the reign of Richard I. This haughty prelate having a quarrel with John, third brother to Richard, under pretence of guarding againſt his deſigns, ſurrounded the whole with walls embattled, and made on the outſide a vaſt ditch,DITCH. into which, in after times, the water from the Thames was introduced. Different princes added other works. The preſent contents, within the walls, are twelve acres and five rods; the circuit, on the outſide of the ditch, one thouſand and fifty-two feet. It was again incloſed with a mud-wall by Henry III: this was placed at a diſtance from the ditch, and occaſioned the taking down of part of the city wall; which was reſented by the citizens; who, pulling down this precinct of mud, were puniſhed by the king with a fine of a thouſand marks.

LIONS TOWER.EDWARD IV. built the Lions tower: it was originally called the [259] Bulwark; but received the former name from its uſe.ROYAL MENAGERY. A menagery had very long been a piece of regal ſtate; Henry I. had his at his manor of Woodſtock, where he kept lions, leopards, lynxes, porcupines, and ſeveral other uncommon beaſts. They were afterwards removed to the Tower. Edward II. commanded the ſheriffs of London, to pay the keepers of the king's leopards ſix pence a day, for the ſuſtenance of the leopards; and three half-pence a day for the diet of the keeper, out of the fee-farm of the city. I ſhould have mentioned before, that Henry iſſued his order to the ſheriffs, to ſupply four pence a day for the maintenance of his white bear (urſo noſtro albo), and his keeper, in the Tower of London. They were alſo to provide a muzzle, and an iron chain to hold the ſaid bear out of the water; and a long cord to hold it during the time it was fiſhing in the Thames: they were beſides ordered to build a ſmall houſe in the Tower for the king's elephant (elefantem noſtrum) and to make proviſion both for beaſt and keeper *.

THE royal menagery is to this day exceedingly well ſupplied. In April 1787, there was a leopard, of a quite unknown ſpecies, brought from Bengal. It was wholly black, but the hair was marked, on the back, ſides, and neck, with round cluſters of ſmall ſpots, of a gloſſy and the moſt intenſe black; the tail hung ſeveral inches beyond the length of the legs, and was very full of hair. Here were alſo two tigers: one had been here ſome time, and its ground-color had faded into a pale ſickly ſandineſs; the other, young and vigorous, and almoſt freſh from its native woods, was [260] almoſt of an orange color; and its black ſtripes, and the white parts, were moſt pure in their kinds *.

THE little book ſold in the Tower, will give a very ſatisfactory account of all its curioſities, natural and artificial. To that I refer my reader.

TOWER-HILL.FOR a conſiderable time, there was a diſpute between the crown and the city, about the right to the Tower-hill (the Gwynfryn of the Welſh). In the reign of Edward IV. the king's officers erected there a gallows, and a ſcaffold for the execution of offenders. The citizens complained; and Edward immediately diſavowed the act, by public proclamation. From that time the fatal apparatus is always provided by the city. The condemned are delivered to the ſheriffs by the lieutenant, who receives from the former a receipt for their delivery; the ſheriffs then ſee execution done, as in other places.

THE FIRST PERSON BEHEADED ON TOWER-HILL.THE firſt whom I recollect to have ſuffered here by the more honorable death of the ax, was in 1388, when Sir Simon de Burley, knight of the Garter, tutor of Richard II. and the moſt accompliſhed man of his time, fell a victim to the malice of the potent faction, which had uſurped the regal authority. Queen Anne, the good queen Anne, went on her knees to the luke of Gloceſter, the king's uncle, to implore mercy; and continued in that attitude three hours before the inexorable tyrant.

THE FORMER ROUGH TREATMENT OF PRISONERS.THERE was, during a very long period, a barbarous meanneſs, a ſpecies of inſult to the unhappy criminals, which is in our days happily changed into every ſpecies of tenderneſs and humanity, [261] conſiſtent with public juſtice and ſecurity. In revenge for the death of Sir Simon, and many others who ſuffered in the ſame cauſe, the great earl of Arundel, Richard Fitzalan, was hurried inſtantly from the place of trial, the palace at Weſtminſter, to Tower-hill: his arms and his hands were bound; and the king glutted his eyes with the bloody ſcene. That great peer Thomas duke of Norfolk, who was confined here in the laſt year of Henry VIII. was reduced to beg for ſheets. He was to have loſt his head, but was ſaved by the death of the tyrant on the very day ordered for his execution. He was kept in cuſtody during the next ſhort reign, but was releaſed on the acceſſion of queen Mary. He mounted his horſe, at the edge of fourſcore, to aſſiſt in quelling the inſurrection of Sir Thomas Wyat, in 1554. This ſerved to fill the Tower with new ſubjects for the mean inſults of the times. Sir Thomas, and the reſt of the priſoners, were brought into the Tower through the Traitors-gate. The lieutenant received them, one by one, with inſults and groſs abuſe. When Sir Thomas appeared, gallantly dreſſed, the lieutenant actually collared him: Sir Thomas gave him a fierce and reproachful look, bravely telling him, This is no maſterie now!

ONE perſon of rank ſuffered here by the more infamous way of the halter. I ſhould not mention Sir Gervis Elwayes, SIR GERVIS ELWAYES. lieutenant of the Tower, who ſuffered here, in 1615, for his concern in the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, but for the great inſtruction which may be gathered from his end, and his excellent dying ſpeech. For there is ſomething very peculiar in his admonition to the ſpectators, againſt appealing to Heaven by a raſh vow; for, having been greatly addicted to gaming, he had ſaid ſeriouſly in his [262] prayers, Lord, let me be hanged if ever I play more: and yet he broke it a thouſand times *. Of what utility would be a ſenſible collection of theſe proofs of the FINGER OF GOD, exemplified to mankind in the detection and puniſhment of every ſpecies of crime!

CHAPEL OF THE TO [...].THE church of St. Petrus ad Vincula, within the Tower, has been the undiſtinguiſhing repoſitory of the headleſs bodies of numbers, who ended their days on the adjacent hill; or, when greatly favored, within the fortreſs. The antient church was much more ſplendid, it being occaſionally the place at which the kings of England performed their oriſons. In Henry III.'s time here were ſtalls for the king and queen; a chancel dedicated to St. Peter, and another to St. Mary. The church was adorned with a fine croſs, images of ſaints, and various paintings, benè & b [...]nis coloribus. Alſo ſeveral holy figures in painted glaſs; all done by that early lover and patron of the arts in England, the monarch juſt mentioned .

EXECUTED PERSONS BURIED THERE.TO the preſent church, after his execution, was finally removed the body of the conſcientious amiable prelate Fiſher, biſhop of Rocheſter; FISHER, BISHOP OF ROCHESTER. a victim to his opinion of the pope's ſupremacy, and the treachery of the attorney-general Rich, who, under pretence of conſulting him, obtained his confidence, and betrayed him. The pope rewarded his orthodoxy with a cardinal's hat, but it did not arrive till the poor biſhop's head was on a pole on London-bridge. His headleſs corſe was removed, to be near that of his friend, who ſuffered about three weeks after, in the ſame cauſe, the [263] great Sir Thomas More. SIR THOMAS MORE. But his body did not long keep company with that of his brother ſufferer, nor his head on the bridge. His affectionate daughter, Margaret Roper, procured the one to be removed to Chelſea; and the head, accidentally blown into the Thames, to be given to her. She kept it during life as a relique, and directed that after her death it ſhould be lodged in her arms and buried with her.

THE beauteous Anna Bullen, ANNA BULLEN. on May 19th, 1536, for a fictitious charge of adultery, by a tyrant luſting for a new object: and the profligate Catherine Howard, on a full conviction of the ſame crime; reſt here. George lord Rochford, the innocent brother of the former, involved in the accuſation, preceded her to the grave by two days; as his infamous wife, a cauſe of their death, accompanied, unpitied, her miſtreſs Catherine Howard, in execution and in ſepulchre. It is impoſſible not to moralize on comparing the manner in which ſhe was brought priſoner to this fatal fortreſs, with the gay and ſplendid pageantry, which attended her and her ſavage ſpouſe from Greenwich by water to the ſame place, on May 29th, 1533; and from the Tower, two days after, with ſtill greater magnificence, to her coronation. She rejoiced too publickly on the death of Catherine of Arragon, whoſe place ſhe moſt wrongfully uſurped: in leſs than five months, ſhe herſelf fell as a criminal *.

THAT meteor Thomas Cromwel, earl of Eſſex, THOMAS CROMWEL, EARL OF ESSEX. the great promoter of the ſuppreſſion of religious houſes, experienced the common lot of the preceding. He ſuffered, among other charges, [264] for being a favorer of heretics; yet died in the firm profeſſion of the Catholic religion.

THOMAS SEYMOUR, BARON SUDLEY.THE turbulent Thomas Seymour, baron Sudley, and lord high admiral, in 1549 was beheaded, and buried in this church, by a warrant from his own brother, the protector Somerſet. On January 24th, 1552, the protector himſelf mounted the ſame ſcaffold, and, notwithſtanding his high rank, was flung into the ſame grave among the attainted herd: and his ambitious rival, the inſtrument of his death,JOHN DUDLEY, DUKE OF NORTHUMBERLAND. John Dudley, duke of Northumberland, loſt his head and was laid by his ſide, on the 22d of Auguſt, 1553. So ſhort, ſo vain are the dreams of power and ambition!

ROBERT DEVEREUX, EARL O [...] [...].THE favorite earl of Eſſex, Robert Devereux, was reluctantly given to the block by his fond miſtreſs, after a long ſtruggle between fear and affection. Mr. Walpole obſerves, that it was a faſhion to treat the paſſion of that illuſtrious princeſs as a romance. She, it is alleged, was ſixty-eight, but it was forgotten that the earl was only thirty-four. Let their ages have been reverſed, you would never have heard of the unhappy love of Elizabeth.

DUKE OF MONMOUTH.BENEATH the communion table repoſes the handſome, reſtleſs, ungrateful ſon of Charles II. the duke of Monmouth. His ambition, like that of many of thoſe he followed to this place, occaſioned his death. He is ſaid to have died calmly; and to have acknowleged the guilt of rebellion: but love preſerved her influence to the laſt moment. He was married very young, and for intereſted motives. He had made a connection of the moſt tender nature with lady Harriet Wentworth, who lived with him as his wife. He could not, with all the arguments of our beſt divines, be convinced of the ſin of adultery; he called her the choice of [265] his ripened years. I have been told a tradition, that lady Harriet had placed herſelf in a window, to take a laſt and farewel look; he was maſter enough of himſelf to make her a graceful bow. With more certainty can I ſay, that the king, on the evening of the execution, viſited the widowed dutcheſs, to give aſſurance of his attention to her and her children. Conſolation ſhe did not want, for ſhe had been ſeparated from him; and when, at the duke's earneſt requeſt, ſhe had an interview with him in the Tower, their interview was, as Barillon expreſſes it, aigre de part et d' autre *.

THE repentant earl of Kilmarnock, and the rough and fearleſs lord Balmerino, avowing the goodneſs of his cauſe to the laſt,EARL OF KILMARNOCK. were depoſited here Auguſt 18th, 1746. The inſcriptions on the leaden plates of their coffins are here ſhewn to ſtrangers. In the following year the infamous Simon lord Lovat was interred in the ſame ground, after mounting the ſcaffold with the intrepidity of innocence. He certainly was in his dotage, or, what is more probable, loſt to all ſenſe of ſhame for his immoral and moſt abandoned life, when he could repeat to the ſpectators, ‘Nam genus et proavos, & QUAE NON FECIMUS IPSI, vix ea noſtra voco.’

BESIDES theſe headleſs trunks, numbers of good people lie here, who went to their graves from their quiet beds.SIR RICHARD BLOUNT AND HIS SON. Among them, Sir Richard Blount, and Sir Michael his ſon, both lieutenants of the Tower. Sir Richard died in 1564; Sir Michael in 1592: a ſplendid monument was erected to each. They are repreſented in armour, kneeling; Sir Richard with his two ſons, his [266] wife, and two daughters, in the dreſs of the times; Sir Michael has a long beard, is attended by three ſons in cloaks, his wife, and daughter.

SIR RICHARD CHO [...]MONDLY.IN a corner, on the floor, is an antient monument of a man recumbent, his hands cloſed as in prayer, his hair lank, his chin beardleſs; his lady by him in a long hood; round his neck is a collar of SS. and a roſe pendent. This is to preſerve the memory of Sir Richard Cholmondly, knight, lieutenant of the Tower in the time of Henry VIII.

TALBOT EDWARDS, KEEPER OF THE KING'S REGALIA.I PASS over leſs intereſting monuments, to the little ſtone on the floor, which records, that Talbot Edwards, late keeper of his majeſty's regalia, 30th September, 1674, aged 80,’ was depoſited here. Was it not a ſhameleſs reign, no remembrance of this good and faithful ſervant would have been ſuffered to remain. This venerable man was keeper of the regalia, when the ruſſian Blood made the notorious attempt on the crown, and other ornaments of majeſty. Never was a more determined villain: ‘with a head to contrive, and heart to execute any wickedneſs.’ Blood contrived, under the guiſe of a clergyman, to make acquaintance with Mr. Edwards; inſinuated himſelf into his favor and confidence. After various viſits, with the aſſiſtance of ſeveral other aſſociates, he ſeized on the old man, whom he had requeſted to ſhew the jewels to his friends, gagged him, and on his reſiſting, ſtruck him on the head with a mallet, and gave him ſeveral ſtabs. Edwards thought it prudent to counterfeit death. Blood put the crown under his parſon's gown: another put the globe in his breeches: a third, not being able to conceal the ſceptre by reaſon of its length, broke off the rich ruby and put it in his pocket. As ſoon as they were gone, Edwards forced out the gag, and gave the alarm; they were inſtantly purſued, and three of them [267] ſoon taken. Blood ſtruggled hard for his prize, ſaying, when it was wreſted from him, It was a gallant attempt, though unſucceſſful; it was for a CROWN.

THE curioſity of the king was excited to ſee a man engaged in ſo many important villanies: under pretence of obtaining diſcoveries, his majeſty made the wretch a viſit; from that moment the artful Blood dated his ſecurity: he told the king ſo many plauſible tales; ſuch indifference he ſhewed for his own life, ſuch anxiety for that of his majeſty (for he inſinuated that his comrades would certainly revenge his death, even on his ſacred majeſty) that in a ſhort time he obtained his pardon. It was neceſſary to apply to the duke of Ormond for permiſſion, the ruffian having made the attempt on his grace's life not long before. The duke nobly anſwered, ‘If his majeſty could forgive him ſtealing the crown, he might eaſily forgive the attempt upon his life; and if ſuch was his majeſty's pleaſure, that was a ſufficient reaſon for him, and his lordſhip (the earl of Arlington, who brought the meſſage) might ſpare the reſt.’ Blood was not only pardoned, but received into favor, had a penſion of five hundred a year, and was perpetually ſeen at court, enjoying the ſmiles of majeſty, and even ſucceſsfully employing his intereſt, as a moſt reſpectable patron. But all good men looked on him with horror, and conſidered him as a Sicarius to a profligate ſet of men, to overawe any who had integrity enough to reſiſt the meaſures of a moſt profligate court. This miſcreant died peacefully in his bed, Auguſt 29th, 1680, fearleſsly, and without any ſigns of penitence; totally hardened and forſaken by Heaven.

THE innocent Talbot Edwards, ſo far from receiving the grateful reward of his fidelity and ſufferings, got with great difficulty [268] a penſion of two hundred a year; and his ſon, who was active in taking Blood, one hundred more: but the order for the penſions was ſo long delayed, and the expences attending the cure of the good old man's wounds ſo great, that he was forced to ſell his order for a hundred pounds ready money, and the ſon his for fifty. It is ſingular that this aged man ſurvived his injuries ſeven years; the attempt was made May 9th, 1671, and the inſcription, contrary to the aſſertions of ſome hiſtorians, fixes his death in 1680 *.

LAWLESS EXECUTIONS.OTHERS have fallen, on this fatal hill, by the hands of lawleſs violence. In the rebellion of Wat Tyler, his miſcreant followers purſued, with unrelenting rage, the nobility and better rank of people.ARCHBISHOP SUDBURY. That worthy primate, Sudbury archbiſhop of Canterbury; Sir Robert Hales, treaſurer of England; and many others, took refuge with their youthful king in the Tower. It was then garriſoned with ſix hundred armed men, and ſix hundred archers; who, appalled at the mob, ſtood motionleſs. The rebels ſeized on the primate; Sir Robert; John Legge, ſerjeant at arms; and William Appledore, the king's confeſſor; all of whom they inſtantly beheaded on Tower-hill; the archbiſhop with peculiar circumſtances of cruelty, being almoſt hewn to pieces by their cruel rage.

JAMES LORD SAY, AND HIS SON-IN-LAW.IN 1450, the mob under Jack Cade, in an endarkened and ſavage period, forced out of this fortreſs James lord Say, whom the king had committed to appeaſe the furious commons. They brought him to Guildhall, and from thence hurried him to the Standard in Cheapſide, where they ſtruck off his head, tied his naked body to a horſe's tail, dragged it to Southwark, and there [269] cut it into quarters. They then beheaded his ſon-in-law, Sir James Cromer, placed the heads on poles, and in every ſtreet made them kiſs each other *. What a horrid parallel have we not ſeen in the late year, amidſt the poliſhed and enlightened FRENCH!!! Two men of rank, M. de Foulon, and his ſon-in-law M. Berthier, were devoted as victims by the barbarous populace. They were firſt hung, with a ſtudied prolongation of their ſufferings: their heads were ſtruck off, and, by a refinement in cruelty (beyond the invention of Jack Cade) the heart of de Foulon was torn out, and brought dancing on a pole, to ſalute his unhappy ſon-in-law on his way to execution: nor was any inſult to their mangled trunks omitted by the furious canaille. But the acts of a mob ought never to tarniſh a national character.

WITHIN the Tower, on the green before the chapel,LORD HASTINGS. was beheaded the accompliſhed lord Haſtings. His fidelity to the children of his late maſter Edward IV. was the cauſe of his death. He was dragged from the council-table, by order of their ambitious protector, Gloceſter, who ſwore he would have his head before he dined; and ſuch was his haſte, that the unfortunate lord had only time to make a ſhort ſhrift to a prieſt who caſually paſſed by, and his head was taken off on a log which happened to lie in the way. So little did he expect death, that, ſcarcely an hour before, he was exulting in the fate of his enemies, lord Rivers, lord Richard Grey, and Sir Thomas Vaughan, at Pontefract; yet all four underwent the ſtroke of the headſman on the very ſame day. Beſides theſe, I can make a miſcellaneous recital of ſeveral who died within theſe walls, by natural deaths, by ſuicide, or by accident.

ELIZABETH,ELIZABETH, WIFE OF HENRY VII. wife of Henry VII. breathed her laſt here in childbed, in 1502.

[270] HENRY, EIGHTH EARL OF NORTHUMBERLAND.HERE may be truly ſaid to have fled indignant to the ſhades, the high ſpirit of Henry earl of Northumberland. He was confined for the ſame cauſe as the earl of Arundel, by the jealous Elizabeth. The B—, exclames the earl, ſhall not have my eſtate; and on June 21ſt, 1585, ſhot himſelf with a piſtol loaden with three bullets.

PHILIP EARL OF ARUNDEL.PHILIP earl of Arundel, ſon of the duke of Norfolk, beheaded for aſpiring to the bed of Mary queen of Scots, was condemned to death for favoring that ill-fated princeſs. He was indeed reprieved, but ſuffered to languiſh till his death, in 1595: his bones were kept in an iron cheſt. A late great dutcheſs of the ſame family procured his ſcull, had it enchaſed in gold, and kept it to exalt her devotion, as the relique of a martyr to religion.

ARTHUR EARL OF ESSEX.ARTHUR earl of Eſſex, accomplice with lord Ruſſel, ended here his days. Deſpair ſeized him on his confinement, and, forſaken by Heaven, he put an end to his exiſtence by the razor. He was of a party charged with equal freedom in religious as political principles. He vindicated and practiſed ſuicide. His death was charged on the court, but without the leſt grounds. The prince who could bring lord Ruſſel to the block by a legal courſe, need never have incurred the odium of aſſaſſination on a leſs important partner of the conſpiracy.

SIR JOHN PERROT.HERE died, in September 1595, Sir John Perrot, the ſuppoſed ſon of Henry VIII. by Mary wife to Thomas Perrot, eſq of Haroldſtone, in the county of Pembroke. In his great ſtature, and high ſpirit, he bore a ſtrong reſemblance to that monarch. Young Perrot firſt attracted his notice by a quarrel he had with two of the yeoman of the guard, whom he foiled in a quarrel he had at the ſtews in Southwark. He was in high favor in the following [271] reign. In that of Mary fell into diſgrace, on account of his attachment to the reformed religion. When queen Elizabeth ſucceeded, he experienced the ſmiles of his ſovereign and ſiſter. At length was conſtituted lord deputy of Ireland, where he grew very unpopular, by reaſon of his haughty conduct; was recalled, unjuſtly accuſed, and condemned of treaſon. His ſentence was reſpited; but he died of a broken heart, unable, from his lofty ſpirit, to brook the ill-treatment he met with from one he thought ſo near an ally.

IN this priſon alſo ſunk a victim to unmerited misfortunes,LADY ARABELLA STUART. the innocent Arabella Stuart, daughter of Charles Stuart, earl of Lenox, and younger brother to lord Darnley, father to James I. Her affinity to the crown brought her under the jealouſy of both Elizabeth, and that monarch. The conſpiracy in 1603, for which lord Cobham, Sir Walter Raleigh, and others, were condemned, was ſuppoſed, among other objects, to have that of placing the crown on the head of this unfortunate lady; on which ſhe was confined to her own houſe. She found means to be married privately to Sir William Seymour, ſecond ſon of the earl of Hertford, afterwards reſtored to the dukedom of Somerſet. On diſcovery of the wedding, they were committed to the Tower, to the care of different keepers. They artfully contrived their eſcape: he arrived ſafe at Dunkirk; the lady was taken at ſea, and conveyed back to her priſon; where her misfortunes deprived her of her ſenſes. She was releaſed by death, September 27th, 1615; and ſound an honorable interment in Henry VIIth's chapel, near the remains of her ill-fated relation Mary queen of Scots. Her huſband lived to ſucceed to the title of Somerſet; and was the faithful ſervant and friend of Charles I.

[272] HENRY, NINTH EARL OF NORTHUMBERLAND, AND HIS WIZARDS.I SHALL mention two other noblemen who were confined within theſe walls, on account of ſome particularities which attended their durance. The firſt is Henry earl of Northumberland, impriſoned on the very juſt ſuſpicion of being privy to the Gun-powder treaſon. During the time he was in cuſtody, he amuſed himſelf moſt rationally in the company of learned men, who were permitted to have acceſs to him. Among others, were three who were called his Wizards: poſſibly he might be fond of aſtronomy, or dabble in judicial aſtrology; circumſtances that, with the vulgar, might eaſily faſten on him the imputation of dealing with the devil.

EARL OF SOUTHAMPTON, AND HIS CAT.A VERY remarkable accident befel Henry Wriothſly, earl of Southampton, the friend and companion of the earl of Eſſex, in his fatal inſurrection: after he had been confined there a ſmall time, he was ſurprized by a viſit from his favorite cat, which had found its way to the Tower; and, as tradition ſays, reached its maſter by deſcending the chimney of his apartment. I have ſeen at Bulſtrode, the ſummer reſidence of the late dutcheſs of Portland, an original portrait of this earl, in the place of his confinement, in a black dreſs and cloak, with the faithful animal ſitting by him *. Perhaps this picture might have been the foundation of the tale.

LORD CHANCELLOR JEFFRIES.THE fallen lord chancellor, the cruel inſtrument of deſpotiſm under James II. died, impriſoned here, of a broken heart, aided by intemperance. He was firſt interred in the church belonging to the Tower; and afterwards was removed to that of St. Mary, Aldermanbury, and depoſited near the body of his rakiſh ſon, lord [273] Wem. In my younger days, I have heard of a hard-hearted inſult on this once great man, during his impriſonment. He received, as he thought, a preſent of Colcheſter oyſters; and expreſſed great ſatisfaction at the thought of having ſome friend yet left: but, on taking off the top of the barrel, inſtead of the uſual contents, appeared an halter!

To conclude this melancholy liſt, I ſhall return to antient times,GRYFFYDD, FATHER OF OUR LAST PRINCE LLEWELYN. to lament the ſad fate of my countrymen, victims to Engliſh ambition. Here was baſely confined, by Henry III. my countryman Gryffydd, father of our laſt prince Llewelyn ap Gryffydd; who, impatient of impriſonment, attempted to eſcape by lowering himſelf from the walls: the line he was deſcending by broke, and, being of a great bulk, he was daſhed to pieces, and periſhed in a moſt miſerable manner *.

IT is ſuppoſed that many of our nobility,WELSH MANUSCRIPTS DESTROYED IN THE TOWER. impriſoned within this fortreſs, had obtained leave that part of their libraries might be ſent to them, for their amuſement in their ſolitary hours: ſo that in time it became a repoſitory of Welſh literature. Theſe valuable manuſcripts were at length burnt by the villainy of one Scolan, to the irreparable loſs of our hiſtory, and our poetry. Gutto' r Glynn, who wrote about the year 1450, thus relates the fact:

Llyfrau Cymru a'u usfrudd,
I'r Twr Gwynn aethant ar gudd;
Yſceler oedd i S [...]lan,
Furw'r twrr llyfrau i'r tan.

i. e. ‘The books of Wales, and their deſtroyer, were concealed [274] in the White Tower. Villainous was the deed of Scolan, when he threw the heaps of books into the fire *.’

T [...]E [...] [...]E [...].IN the next reign, to the eternal diſgrace of the great Edward, the head of the ſon of Gryffydd, the laſt of our princes, was placed on theſe battlements, inſultingly crowned with ivy, for gallantly defending his hereditary dominions, to which he had as good a right as his more fortunate conqueror had to the crown of England. And, to fill the meaſure of misfortune, in a ſmall time after the head of prince Dafydd was ſent to accompany that of his ill-ſated brother.

OWE [...] TUDOR.DAFYDD LHWYD AP LLEWELYN o Vathavarn, a poet, who flouriſhed in 1480, gives our countryman Owen Tudor, grandfather to Henry VII. a nobler priſon than I fear we can warrant from hiſtory . He certainly thought it derogating from the honor of W [...]les, to ſend his hero to Newgate like a common felon. Thus he bewa [...]ls his unfortunate ſtate, in a Cowydd compoſed on the occaſion. I ſhall give a tranſlation of the parts relative to the ſubject, by the ſame ingenious friend , to whom I lie under ſo many ſimilar obligations.

TUDOR, in himſelf a h [...]ſt,
High-born Owen, Ca [...]'s boaſt.
C [...] flower impriſon'd [...]ies,
Where L [...] loſty towers riſe.
U [...]ſt the pride, and r [...]ſh the power,
That deem'd him to yon h [...]le Tower.
[275]For him our eyes with pity flow,
For him our breaſts with vengeance glow.
Are Owen's feet with fetters bound?
With poetry I'll eaſe the wound:
Around his legs my mute ſhall twine,
And break them with her ſtrains divine.
How wond'rous are the powers of ſong,
To ſuccour them who ſuffer wrong!

The next explains the cauſe of his impriſonment.

'Tis not for plunder, fraud, or debt,
That Owen this misfortune met.
'Tis not for lawleſs force of arms;
But for a queen's reſiſtleſs charms,
Fertile Gallia's daughter fair,
That Owen's feet thoſe fetters wear.
Worthy, virtuous, comely, tall,
CATHERINE did his heart enthrall.
Who could blame th' adventurous youth?
Fam'd for valor, honor truth.
To him this gem of Gallia's ſhore
Three renowned children bore,
Warlike youths, their father's pride,
FRANCE's royal blood allied;
Grandſons to the Gallie throne;
Loyal barons of our own.
From them in future times ſhall ſpring,
Many a gallant Britiſh king *.

A LITTLE to the ſouth of Eaſt Smithfield, ST. CATHERINE'S HOSPITAL. is the hoſpital of St. Catherine's, originally founded in 1148, by Matilda of Boulogne, wife of king Stephen, for the repoſe of her ſon Baldwin, [276] and her daughter Matilda: and for the maintenance of a maſter, brothers and ſiſters, and other poor perſons. In 1273, Elinor, widow of Henry, poſſeſſed herſelf of it, diſſolved the old foundation, refounded it in honor of the ſame ſaint, for a maſter, three brethren chaplains, three ſiſters, ten Bedes women, and ſix poor ſcholars. Queen Philippa, wife of Edward III. was a great benefactreſs to this hoſpital: and to this day it remains under queenly patronage, according to the reſervation made by the pious re-foundreſs Elinor. Our preſent gracious queen is the twenty-ninth royal patroneſs.

THE maſterſhip is a ſinecure of conſiderable value. In this hoſpital is a houſe for him, and all its members. The reader will find the diſpoſition of them, in the plan printed by Mr. Nichols, in the account of St. Katherine's hoſpital, and its collegiate church; a poſthumous work of that able antiquary the late Andrew Coltee Ducarel, LL. D. He was interred in the collegiate church, where a plain piece of marble informs us of little more than the period of his exiſtence.

CHURCH.THE church is a handſome gothic building, but almoſt quite loſt in the various houſes, which ſhut it up from public view. The eaſt window is very elegant; and in the modern improvements there is the utmoſt propriety preſerved in the imitation of the antient architecture. The wooden pulpit is a curioſity: on its eight ſides are repreſented the antient building, and different gates of the hoſpital; beneath each compartment extend, EZRA THE SCRIBE—STOOD UPON A—PULPIT OF WOOD — WHICH HE HAD—MADE FOR THE—PREACHIN Neh— e. chap. viii. 4.

UNDER one of the ſtalls is a very good carving of the head of [277] queen Philippa, and another of her ſpouſe. They bear a reſemblance to the monumental ſculpture of thoſe great perſonages.

THE moſt remarkable monument is that of John Holland, TOMB OF JOHN HOLLAND, DUKE OF EXETER. duke of Exeter, who lies recumbent, with a fillet round his head, and in a long gown, the weeds of peace. By him are placed the figure of his firſt wife Anne, daughter of Edmund earl Stafford, and widow of Edmund Mortimer, earl of March; and another of his ſiſter Conſtance, firſt, wife to Thomas Mowbray, duke of Norfolk; and afterwards to Sir John Grey, eldeſt ſon of Reginald lord Grey, of Ruthen. This potent peer was a great benefactor to the hoſpital, founded in it a chauntry; and bequeathed to the high altar in the church, ‘a cuppe of byroll, garniſhed with gold, perles, and precious ſtones, to be put in the ſacrament,’ and numbers of other valuable effects. He died in peace in 1447, a wonderful thing in his family; not fewer than four of this great houſe, in little more than a century, fell by violent deaths.

BELOW St. Catherine's, on the river ſide,THE BERE-HOUSE. ſtood the great breweries or Bere-houſe, as it is called in the map publiſhed in the firſt volume of the Civitates Orbis. They were ſubject to regulations as early as the reign of Henry VII; who, in 1492, licenſes John Merchant, a Fleming, to export fifty tons of ale called Berre *. And in the ſame reign one Geffry Gate, probably an officer of the king's, ſpoiled the brewhouſes at St. Catherine's twice, either for ſending too much abroad unlicenſed, or for brewing it too weak for their home cuſtomers . The demand for this article from foreign parts encreaſed to a high degree; in [278] the reign of queen Elizabeth, five hundred tons were exported at once, as is expreſſed for the queen's uſe, at one time; probably for the ſervice of her army in the low countries; three hundred and fifty barrels to Embden; three hundred to Amſterdam; and again eight hundred to Embden. At this time there ſeems to have been a free exportation, except when checked by proclamation, for fear of enhancing the price of corn, by exceſs of brewing in ſcarce times; but even then it was permitted by the royal licence *.

THOSE who wiſh to attempt to reſtore the ſpirit of the boiſterous reign of Henry, as far as depended on the boaſted Britiſh liquor, may uſe the following receipt :

  • x quarters malte.
  • ii quarters wheet.
  • i. quarters ootos.
  • xl lb. weight of hoppys, to make lx barrel of ſeugyll beer.

IT is not in my power to trace the progreſs of this important article of trade. Let me only ſay that it is now a national concern: for the duty on malt, from July 5th 1785, to the ſame day 1786, produced a million and half of money , to the ſupport of [279] the ſtate, from a liquor which invigorates the bodies of its willing ſubjects, to defend the bleſſings they enjoy; while that from the Stygian gin enervates and incapacitates. One of theſe Chevaliers de Malte (as an impertinent Frenchman ſtyled a moſt reſpectable gentleman * of the trade) has, within one year, contributed not leſs than fifty thouſand pounds to his own ſhare. The ſight of a great London brewhouſe exhibits a magnificenſe unſpeakable. The veſſels evince the extent of the trade. Mr. Meux, of Liquorpond ſtreet, Gray's-inn-lane, can ſhew twenty-four tons; containing, in all, thirty-five thouſand barrels; one alone holds four thouſand five hundred barrels of wholeſome liquor; which enables the London porter-drinkers to undergo taſks that ten gin-drinkers would ſink under.

[280]I AM now arrived at the very eaſtern extent of London, as it was in the age of queen Elizabeth. A ſmall village or two might be found in the remaining part of the county of Middleſex, but bordered by marſhes, which frequently experienced the ravages of the river.ST [...]EY This tract had been a manor in the Saxon times, called Stibben-hedde, i. e. Stibben-heath. In later days it belonged to John de Pulteney, who had been four times lord mayor, viz. in 1330, 1331, 1333, and 1336. The biſhops of London had here a palace, as appears from antient records ‘Given from our palace of Stebonbyth, or Stebonheath, which is ſuppoſed to have filled the ſpace now covered with ſeveral tenements *. It appears that the ſide next to the Thames had been embanked, to reſiſt the fury of the floods. From the 26th of Edward I. ſeveral inquiſitions were made to examine the ſtate of the banks and ditches, and the tenants, who were found negligent, were preſented as delinquents . The church, which ſtands far from the river, was originally called Eccleſia omnium Sanctorum, but was afterwards ſtyled that of St. Dunſtan; for the whole body of ſaints was obliged to give way to him who had the courage to take the devil himſelf by the noſe . The church is by no means diſtinguiſhed by its architecture. In it were interred the remains of the illuſtrious Sir Thomas Spert, comptroller of the navy in the time of Henry VIII. and to whom this kingdom was indebted for that ſalutary foundation the TRINITY-HOUSE . Here alſo may be found that curious epitaph mentioned by the Spectator:

[281]
Here Thomas Saffin lyes interr'd: Ah why
Born in New England, did in London dye? &c.

This vaſt pariſh is at preſent divided into eight others, yet the mother pariſh ſtill remains of great extent.

THE dock and ſhip yard, the property of Mr. Perry, the greateſt private dock in all Europe, is at the extremity of this pariſh, at Blackwall, the upper part of the eaſtern ſide of the Iſle of Dogs. It may be called the eaſtern end of London, being nearly a continued ſucceſſion of ſix miles and a half of ſtreets, from hence to Tyburn turnpike.

THE great extent of Wapping, WAPPING. which ſtretches along the river ſide from St. Katherine's, aroſe from the opinion of the commiſſioners of ſewers, in 1571, that nothing could ſecure the manor from the depredations of the water, more effectually than the building of houſes: for they thought the tenants would not fail being attentive to the ſafety of their lives and property. The plan ſucceeded, and in our days we ſee a vaſt and populous town added to the antient precincts (which had ſtagnated for ages). A long narrow ſtreet, well paved, and handſomely flagged on both ſides, winding along the banks of the Thames, as far as the end of Limehouſe, an extent of near two miles; and inhabited by multitudes of ſeafaring men, alternate occupants of ſea and land: their floating tenements lie before them. In fact, the whole river, from the bridge, for a vaſt way, is covered with a double foreſt of maſts, with a narrow avenue in mid-channel. Theſe give importance and ſafety to the ſtate, and ſupply the mutual wants of the univerſe. We ſend the neceſſaries and luxuries of our iſland to every part; and, in return, receive every pabulum which ſhould [282] ſatiate the moſt luxurious, wealth that ought to make avarice cry, Hold! enough, and matters for ſpeculation for the laudable and delicate longings of the intellectual world.

SHADWELL.THE hamlet of Shadwell is a continuation of the buildings along the river. Between the houſes and the water, in all this long tract of ſtreet, are frequent docks, and ſmall building yards. The paſſenger is often ſurprized with the ſight of the prow of a ſhip riſing over the ſtreet, and the hulls of new ones appearing at numbers of openings. But all that filth and ſtench, which Stow complains of, exiſts no longer. Execution Dock ſtills remains at Wapping, and is in uſe as often as a melancholy occaſion requires. The criminals are to this day executed on a temporary gallows placed at low-water mark; but the cuſtom of leaving the body to be overflowed by three tides, has long ſince been omitted.

RADCLIFF.THE village of Radcliff, to which Wapping now joins, is of ſome antiquity. From hence the gallant Sir Hugh Willoughby, on May the 20th, 1553, took his departure on his fatal voyage for diſcovering the north-eaſt paſſage to China. He ſailed with great pomp by Greenwich, where the court then lay. Mutual honors were payed on both ſides. The council and courtiers appeared at the windows, and the people covered the ſhores. The young king alone loſt the noble and novel ſight, for he then lay on his death-bed; ſo that the principal object of the parade was diſappointed *.

LIMEHOUSE.LIMEHOUSE is a continuation of the town along the river-ſide: it is a new creation; and its church, one of the fifty new churches, was finiſhed in 1724. This may be called the end of London on the [283] water-ſide; but it is continued by means of Poplar, a chapelry in the pariſh of Stepney (antiently a regal manor, ſo named from its abundance of poplar trees) acroſs the upper part of the Iſle of Dogs, in a ſtrait line to the river Lea, the diviſion of this county from Eſſex.

WAPPING, Shadwell, and Limehouſe, have their reſpective churches; and Poplar its chapel. The two firſt have nothing to attract the eye. Limehouſe has its aukward tower, a dull ſquare riſing out of another, embelliſhed with pilaſters; heavy pinnacles riſe out of the uppermoſt: the whole proves how unhappily Mr. Hawkſmoor, the architect of Bloomſbury church, exerted his genius in the obſolete art of ſteeple-building. The church in queſtion is one of the new fifty. In the year 1730 it was added to the bills of mortality.

IN our walk through Limehouſe, we croſſed the New Cut, or Poplar canal, near its diſcharge into the river. This was begun about twenty years ago; runs by Bromley, and joins the river Lea near Bow, where barges enter by means of a lock called Bow-lock. This canal is about a mile and a quarter in length; and ſerves to bring to our capital corn, malt, and flour, from the neighborhood of Hertford, and ſeveral other counties, which put their productions on board the barges at that town. It is alſo of great uſe to convey to the Thames the produce of the great diſtilleries near Bow; and alſo to the internal counties coals, and ſeveral articles from the metropolis. This canal ſaves the great circuit of paſſing down to Lea-mouth, and thence round the Iſle of Dogs; a navigation often impeded by contrary winds and tides, which frequently fall out ſo adverſe, as to occaſion great delays. Yet this canal by no means annihilates the uſe of the river Lea [284] to and from its mouth; but barges go indifferently either way, as conveniency, or the circumſtances above-mentioned, occur. Beſides, many barges will enter the river Lea to ſave the navigation expences of the New Cut.

LIMEHOUSE dock is a little farther to the ſouth-eaſt, and is much uſed.

WE finiſhed our walk, and dined at a ſmall houſe called the Folly, on the water's edge, almoſt oppoſite to the ſplendid hoſpital at Greenwich, where we ſat for ſome hours enjoying the delicious view of the river, and the moving picture of a ſucceſſion of ſhipping perpetually paſſing and repaſſing.

BILLS OF MORTALITY.IT is wonderful, that in this great city there ſhould have been no regular Cenſus; but that we muſt depend on the account of the number of inhabitants from the uncertain calculation of the bills of mortality. I will allow them to be delivered annually, by the only cenſors we have, the company of pariſh-clerks, with all poſſible accuracy, as far as their knowlege extends: but, as it is admitted that a number of people find their burials in coemeteries without the bills, equal nearly to thoſe which are annually reported to be interred within their juriſdiction, the uncertainty of the enumeration collected from them muſt be allowed. In the laſt year, 19,697 were buried within the bills: if the above aſſertion * is well founded, the ſum muſt be 39,394. I refer the deciſion of the numbers of inhabitants to the ſkilful in calculation. I have heard it averred that the preſent number is a million. Maitland gives the total, in the time of his publication (1756) to have [285] been 725,341 *. The increaſe of London ſince his days gives a probability that the enumeration is not much exaggerated.

BILLS of mortality took riſe in 1592, in which began a great peſtilence, which continued till the 18th of December, 1595. During this period they were kept in order to aſcertain the number of perſons who died: but when the plague ceaſed, the bills were diſcontinued. They were reſumed again in 1603. At the original inſtitution, there were only a hundred and nine pariſhes: others were gradually added, and, by the year 1681, the number was a hundred and thirty-two: ſince that time fourteen more have been added, ſo that the whole amounts to a hundred and forty-ſix; viz.

  • 97 within the walls.
  • 16 without the walls.
  • 23 out-pariſhes in Middleſex and Surry.
  • 10 in the city and liberties of Weſtminſter .

AMONG the multitudes who fall victims to diſeaſe, is a melancholy account of the rural youth, which crowd here in numbers, laboring under the deluſion of preferment: ſome periſh ſoon, without even attaining a ſervice; and, urged by want, fall under the cognizance of juſtice. Others get admiſſion into ſhops, or into places, where they experience hard work, hard wages, hard lodgings, and ſcanty food. They ſoon fall ill, are neglected, or flung into an hoſpital when paſſed all relief, where they periſh. Their native villages want their innocent labor, and the whole [286] ruſtic community, I may ſay the whole kingdom, ſuffers for the indiſcrcet ambition of theſe unhappy youths or of their ſimple parents.

RADCLIFF HIGHWAY.WE varied our road on our return, by taking that of Radcliff Highway, a broad and very long ſtreet, ending in Eaſt Smithfield. On the north ſide ſtands another of the new fifty churches, St. George's Middleſex; ſquare riſes out of ſquare, to compoſe the ſteeple; its upper ſtory is incomprehenſible, the outſide ſtuck around with chimney-like columns, ſquare at the lower parts, above making a ſudden tranſition into the round. This church was began in 1715; finiſhed in 1729: and, by the eccentricity of the ſtyle, may fairly be ſuſpected to have had Mr. Hawkſmoor for its builder.

RAG-FAIR.AT the end of this ſtreet we found ourſelves in the midſt of Rag-fair, in the fulleſt hour of buſineſs. The articles of commerce by no means belye the name. There is no expreſſing the poverty of the goods: nor yet their cheapneſs. A diſtinguiſhed merchant, engaged with a purchaſer, obſerving me to look on him with great attention, called out to me, as his cuſtomer was going off with his bargain, to obſerve that man, For, ſays he, I have actually cloathed him for fourteen pence.

ABBY OF ST. MARY OF THE GRACES.A LITTLE farther on to the eaſt, ſtood the abby of St. Mary of the Graces, called alſo the New Abby, and Eaſtminſter, in oppoſition to Weſtminſter, in reſpect to its ſituation. It was founded by Edward III. in 1349, in the new church-yard of the Holy Trinity, and filled with Ciſtertians. That church-yard was made by John Corey, clerk, on occaſion of the dreadful peſtilence which raged in that reign, ſo that there was not room in the common church-yards to inter the dead. Edward was moved to his piety by a [287] fright he was ſeized with in a violent ſtorm, in his way to France; when he vowed; if he got ſafe to ſhore, he would found a monaſtery to the honor of God, and the Lady of Grace, if ſhe would grant him the grace of coming ſafe on ſhore *. At the diſſolution its revenues, according to Dugdale, amounted to £. 5,406. 0 s. 10 d. It was granted to Sir Arthur Darcie, in 1540, who pulled it entirely down. "In place thereof," ſays Stow, VICTUALLING OFFICE. ‘is builded a large ſtore-houſe for victual, and convenient ovens are builded for baking of biſket to ſerve hir majeſties ſhippes.’ The preſent Victualling Office ſucceeded the original building, and is allotted for the ſame purpoſe.

FROM hence I paſſed by the Tower, to the Cuſtom-houſe,CUSTOM-HOUSE. a little to the weſt of that fortreſs. On this ſpot is the buſy concourſe of all nations, who pay their tribute towards the ſupport of Great Britain. The preſent building is of brick and ſtone; before which, ſhips of three hundred and fifty tons can lie and diſcharge their cargo. There was one here, built as early as the year 1385, by John Churchman , one of the ſheriffs of London; but at that period, and long after, the cuſtoms were collected in different parts of the city, and in a very irregular manner. About the year 1559 the loſs to the revenue was firſt diſcovered, and an act paſſed to compel people to land their goods in ſuch places as were appointed by the commiſſioners of the revenue; and this was the ſpot fixed on: a Cuſtom-houſe was erected, which, being deſtroyed by the great fire, was rebuilt by Charles II. In 1718, it underwent the ſame fate, and was reſtored in its preſent form. [288] Before the Cuſtom-houſe was eſtabliſhed here, the principal place for receiving the duties was at Billingſgate. CUSTOMS IN 979. As early as 979, or the reign of Etheldred, a ſmall veſſel was to pay ad Bilynggeſgate one penny halfpenny as a toll; a greater, bearing ſails, one penny; a keel or hulk (Ceol vel Hulcus) four pence; a ſhip laden with wood, one piece for toll; and a boat with fiſh, one halfpenny; or a larger, one penny *. We had even now trade with France for its wines; for mention is made of ſhips from Rouen, who came here and landed them, and freed them from toll, i. e. payed their duties.IN 1268. What they amounted to I cannot learn. But in 1268 the half year's cuſtoms, for foreign merchandize in the city of London, came only to £. 75. 6 s. 10 d. In 1331, they amounted to £. 8,000 a year.IN 135 [...]. In 1354, the duty on imports was only £. 580. 6 s. 8 d.; on our exports (wool and felts) £. 81,624. 1 s. 1 d. Well may Mr. Anderſon obſerve the temperance and ſobriety of the age, when we conſider the ſmall quantities of wine and other luxuries uſed in theſe kingdoms.

IN 1590.IN 1590, the latter end of the glorious reign of Elizabeth, our cuſtoms brought in £. 50,000 a year. They had at firſt been farmed at £. 14,000 a year; afterwards raiſed to £. 42,000; and finally to the ſum I mention, and ſtill to the ſame perſon, Sir Thomas Smith.

IN 1613, by the peaceful politics of James I. our imports brought in £. 48,250; our exports £. 61,322. 16 s. 7 d. the whole of the revenue, from the cuſtoms, amounting this year to £. 109,572. 18 s. 4 d. in the port of London only. Our exports [289] from the out-ports raiſed £. 25,471. 9 s. 9 d.; the imports £. 13,030. 9 s. 9 d.; the ſum total was £. 148,075. 7 s. 8 d.

IN 1641, juſt before the beginning of our troubles,IN 1641. the cuſtoms brought in £. 500,000 a year; the effect of a long ſeries of peaceful days. The effects of our civil broils appeared ſtrongly in 1666, when they ſuffered a decreaſe of £. 110,000. From the year 1671 to 1688, they were at a medium £. 555,752.IN 1666, 1671. In the year 1709, notwithſtanding a fierce war raged for many years,IN 1709. they were raiſed to £. 2,319,320. For want of materials, I am obliged to paſs to the annual produce of the cuſtoms, ending in April, 1789, which amounted to £. 3,711,126.

IN Water-lane, a little to the north-weſt of the Cuſtom-houſe,TRINITY-HOUSE. is the Trinity-houſe; a ſociety founded in 1515, at a period in which the Britiſh navy began to aſſume a ſyſtem. The founder was Sir Thomas Spert, comptroller of the navy, and commander of the great ſhip Henry Grace de Dieu. It is a corporation, conſiſting of a maſter, four wardens, eight aſſiſtants, and eighteen elder brethren *; ſelected from commanders in the navy and the merchants ſervice; and now and then a compliment is payed to one or two of our firſt nobility. They may be conſidered as guardians of our ſhips, military and commercial. Their powers are very extenſive: they examine the mathematical children of Chriſt's Hoſpital; maſters of his majeſty's ſhips; they appoint pilots for the river Thames; ſettle the general rates of pilotage; erect light-houſes, and ſea-marks; grant licences to poor ſeamen, not free of the city, to row on the Thames; prevent foreigners [290] from ſerving on board our ſhips without licence; puniſh ſeamen for mutiny and deſertion; hear and determine complaints of officers and men in the merchants ſervice, but liable to appeal to the judge of the court of admiralty; ſuperintend the deepening and cleanſing of the river Thames, and have under their juriſdiction the ballaſt-office; have powers to buy lands, and receive donations for charitable uſes; and, in conſequence, relieve annually many thouſands of poor ſeamen, their widows, and orphans.

THIS houſe is unworthy of the greatneſs of its deſign. In the council-room are ſome portraits of eminent men. The moſt remarkable is that of Sir John Leake, with his lank grey locks, and a looſe night gown, with a mien very little indicative of his high courage, and active ſpirit. He was the greateſt commander of his time, and engaged in moſt actions of note during the reigns of king William and queen Anne. To him was committed the deſperate, but ſucceſsful attempt of breaking the boom, previous to the relief of Londonderry. He diſtinguiſhed himſelf greatly at the battle of La Hogue; aſſiſted at the taking of Gibraltar; and afterwards, as commander in chief, reduced Barcelona; took Carthagena, and brought Sardinia and Minorca to ſubmit to Charles, rival to Philip for the crown of Spain. He was made a lord of the admiralty, but declined the offer of being head of the commiſſion; at the acceſſion of George I. averſe to the new family, he retired; but with the approving penſion of £. 600 a year. He lived privately at Greenwich, where he died in 1720, and was buried in a manner ſuitable to his merits, in the church at Stepney.

IT is in this houſe the buſineſs of the inſtitution is carried on: but the mother-houſe is at Deptford, the corporation being named, The maſter, wardens, and aſſiſtants of the guild or fraternity of the [291] moſt glorious and undivided Trinity, and of St. Clement, in the pariſh of Deptford Strond, in the county of Kent *.

AFTER the Cuſtom-houſe, the firſt place of note is Billingſgate, or,BILLINGSGATE. to adapt the ſpelling to conjectures of antiquaries, ‘who go beyond the realms of Chaos and old night,’ Belin's-gate, or the gate of Belinus king of Britain, fellow-adventurer with Brennus king of the Gauls, at the ſacking of Rome, three hundred and ſixty years before the Chriſtian aera: and the BELI mawr, who graces the pedigrees of numbers of us antient Britons. For fear of falling on ſome inglorious name, I ſubmit to the etymology; but muſt confeſs there does not appear any record of a gate at this place: his ſon Lud was more fortunate, for Ludgate preſerves his memory to every citizen, who knows the juſt value of antiquity. Gate here ſignifies only a place where there was a concourſe of people ; a common quay or wharf, where there is a free going in and out to the ſame . This was a ſmall port for the reception of ſhipping, and, for a conſiderable time, the moſt important place for the landing of almoſt every article of commerce. It was not till the reign of king William that it became celebrated as a fiſh-market; who, in 1699, by act of parlement made it a free port for fiſh, which might be ſold there every day in the week except Sunday. The object of this has long been fruſtrated, and the epicure who goes (as was a frequent practice) to Billingſgate to eat fiſh in perfection, will now be cruelly diſappointed.

I CANNOT give a liſt of the fiſh moſt acceptable in the Saxon [292] ages; but there is a liſt left of thoſe which were brought to market in that of Edward I. who deſcended even to regulate the prices, that his ſubjects might not be left to the mercy of the venders.

 s.d.
The beſt plaice0
A dozen of beſt ſoles03
Beſt freſh mulvil, i. e. molun or cod03
Beſt hadock02
Beſt barkey04
Beſt mullet02
Beſt dorac, John Doree?05
Beſt conger10
Beſt turbot06
Beſt bran, ſard, and betule03
Beſt mackrel, in Lent01
And out of Lent0
Beſt gurnard01
Beſt freſh merlings, i. e. whitings, four for01
Beſt powdered ditto, 12 for01
Beſt pickled herrings, twenty01
Beſt freſh ditto, before Michaelmas, ſix for01
Ditto, after Michaelmas, twelve for01
Beſt Thames, or Severn lamprey04
Beſt freſh oyſters, a gallon for02
Beſt rumb, groſs and fat, at04
Beſt ſea-hog, i. e. porpeſſe68
Beſt eels, a ſtrike, or ¼ hundred02
Beſt lampreys, in winter, the hundred08
Ditto, at other times Theſe, by their cheapneſs, muſt have been the little lampreys now uſed for bait.06
Beſt freſh ſalmon, from Chriſtmas to Eaſter, for50
Ditto, after ditto30
Beſt ſmelts, the hundred01
Beſt roche, in ſummer01
Beſt Lucy, or pike, at68

[293]AMONG theſe fiſh, let me obſerve, that the conger is, at preſent, never admitted to any good table; and to ſpeak of ſerving up a porpeſſe whole, or in part, would ſet your gueſts a ſtaring. Yet, ſuch is the difference of taſte, both theſe fiſhes were in high eſteem. King Richard's maſter cooks have left a moſt excellent receipt for Congur in Sawſe *; and as for the other great fiſh, it was either eaten roaſted, or ſalted, or in broth, or furmente with porpeſſe . The learned Doctor Caius even tells us the proper ſauce, and ſays, that it ſhould be the ſame with that for a Dolphin ; another diſh unheard of in our days. From the great price the Lucy or pike bore , one may reaſonably ſuſpect that it was at that time an exotic fiſh, and brought over at a vaſt expence.

I CONFESS myſelf unacquainted with the words Barkey, Bran, and Betule: Sard was probably the Sardine or Pilchard: I am equally at a loſs about Croplings, and Rumb: but the pickled Balenes were certainly the Pholas Dactylus of Linnaeus, 1110; the Balanus of Rondeletius de Teſtaceis, 28; and the Dattili of the modern Italians, which are to this day eaten, and even pickled.

To this liſt of ſea-fiſh, which were admitted in thoſe days to table, may be added the ſturgeon, and ling; and there is twice mention, in archbiſhop Nevill's great feaſt, of a certain fiſh, both roaſted and baked, unknown at preſent, called a Thirle-poole.

THE ſeal was alſo reckoned a fiſh, and, with the ſturgeon and porpeſs, were the only freſh fiſh which, by the 33d of Henry VIII. were permitted to be bought of any ſtranger at ſea, between England and France, Flanders, and Zealand.

[294] LONDON-BRIDGE;A LITTLE to the weſt is London-bridge. The year of its foundation is not ſettled. The firſt mention of it is in the laws of Ethelred, which fix the tolls of veſſels coming to Billingſgate, or ad Pontem. It could not be prior to the year 993, when Unlaf, the Dane, ſailed up the river as high as Stains *, without interruption: nor yet after the year 1016, in which Ethelred died: and the great Canute, king of Denmark, when he beſieged London, was impeded in his operations by a bridge, which even at that time muſt have been ſtrongly fortified, to oblige him to have recourſe to the following vaſt expedient:—He cauſed a prodigious ditch to be cut on the ſouth ſide of the Thames, at Rotherhithe, or Redriff, a little to the eaſt of Southwark, which he continued at a diſtance from the ſouth end of the bridge, in form of a ſemicircle, opening into the weſtern part of the river. Through this he drew his ſhips, and effectually compleated the blockade of the city . But the valour of the citizens obliged him to raiſe the ſiege. Evidences of this great work were found in the place called The Dock Head, at Redriff, where it began. Faſcines of hazels, and other bruſhwood, faſtened down with ſtakes, were diſcovered in digging that dock, in 1694; and in other parts of its courſe have been met with, in ditching, large oaken planks, and numbers of piles .

WHEN BUILT;THE bridge originated from the public ſpirit of the college of prieſts of St. Mary Overie. Before, there had been a ferry, left by her parents to their only daughter Mary; who, out of the profits, founded a nunnery and endowed it with the profits of the boat. This houſe was afterwards converted into the college of [295] prieſts, who not only built the bridge but kept it in repair: but it muſt be underſtood that the firſt bridge was of timber,FIRST OF TIMBER. the materials at hand, and moſt probably rudely put together. This account is given by Stow, from the report of Bartholomew Linſted, alias Fowle, laſt prior of St. Marie Overie; but was doubted, becauſe the work has been ſuppoſed to be too great, and too diſintereſted for a college of prieſts, who were to give up the certain profits of the ferry, for thoſe reſulting precariouſly from an expenſive undertaking. Even the exiſtence of a religious houſe before the Conqueſt has been ſuſpected: but the Domeſday book puts that out of doubt, by informing us, Ipſe epiſcopus habet unum monaſterium in Sudwerche. Numbers of uſeful, as well as pious works, in early days, originated from the inſtigation of the churchmen, who often had the honor of being called the founders, when the work itſelf was performed by their devotees. Neither is it to be ſuppoſed that they could keep it in repair: the ſame zeal which impelled people to contribute to the building, operated in the veſtiture of land for its future ſupport; and this appears to have been done by ſeveral inſtances; yet the endowments were ſo ſmall, that a ſupplementary tax was often raiſed.

IN 1136, the bridge was burnt down. By the year 1163 it grew ſo ruinous as to occaſion its being rebuilt, under the care of one Peter, curate of St. Mary Colechurch, a celebrated architect of thoſe times. It was ſoon after determined to build a bridge of ſtone, and, about the year 1176,REBUILT IN 1176 WITH STONE. the ſame Peter was employed again. It proved a work of thirty-three years: the architect died four years before it was completed; and another clergyman, Iſenbert, maſter of the ſchools of Xainctes, was recommended to the citizens, by king John, for the honor of finiſhing it; but they [296] rejected their prince's choice, and committed the work to three merchants of London, who completed it in 1209. Peter was buried in a beautiful chapel, probably of his own conſtruction, dedicated to St. Thomas, C [...]P [...] IN ONE OF THE PIERE. which ſtood on the eaſt ſide, in the ninth pier from the north end, and had an entrance from the river, as well as the ſtreet, by a winding ſtaircaſe. It was beautifully paved with black and white marble, and in the middle was a tomb, ſuppoſed to contain the remains of Peter the architect.

THIS great work was founded on enormous piles, driven as cloſely as poſſible together: on their tops were laid long planks ten inches thick, ſtrongly bolted; and on them were placed the baſe of the pier, the lowermoſt ſtones of which were bedded in pitch, to prevent the water from damaging the work: round all were the piles which are called the Sterlings, deſigned for the preſervation of the foundation piles. Theſe contracted the ſpace between the piers ſo greatly, as to occaſion, at the retreat of every tide, a fall of five feet, or a number of temporary cataracts, which, ſince the foundation of the bridge, have occaſioned the loſs of many thouſand lives. The water, at ſpring-tides, riſes to the height of about eighteen feet. The length of this vaſt work is nine hundred and fifteen feet, the exact breadth of the river. The number of arches was nineteen, of unequal dimenſions, and greatly deformed by the ſterlings, and the houſes on each ſide, which overhung and leaned in a moſt terrific manner. In moſt places they hid the arches, and nothing appeared but the rude piers. I well remember the ſtreet on London-bridge, narrow, darkſome, and dangerous to paſſengers from the multitude of carriages: frequent arches of ſtrong timber croſſed the ſtreet, from the tops of the houſes, to keep them together, and from falling into the [297] river. Nothing but uſe could preſerve the reſt of the inmates, who ſoon grew deaf to the noiſe of the falling waters, the clamors of watermen, or the frequent ſhrieks of drowning wretches. Moſt of the houſes were tenanted by pin or needle makers,PIN-MAKERS. and oeconomical ladies were wont to drive from the St. James's end of the town, to make cheap purchaſes. Fuller tells us, that Spaniſh needles were made here firſt in Cheapſide, by a negro, who died without communicating the art. Elias Crowſe, a German, in the reign of Elizabeth, was more liberal, and firſt taught the method to the Engliſh. Fuller's definition of a needle is excellent, quaſi NE IDLE.

IN the bridge were three openings on each ſide, with balluſtrades, to give paſſengers a ſight of the water and ſhipping. In one part had been a draw-bridge, uſeful either by way of defence,DRAW-BRIDGE. or for the admiſſion of ſhips into the upper part of the river. This was protected by a ſtrong tower. It ſerved to repulſe Faucon-bridge the Baſtard, in his general aſſault on the city in 1471, with a ſet of banditti, under pretence of reſcuing the unfortunate Henry, then confined in the Tower. Sixty houſes were burnt on the bridge on the occaſion *. It alſo ſerved to check, and in the end annihilate, the ill-conducted inſurrection of Sir Thomas Wiat, in the reign of queen Mary. The top of this tower, in the ſad and turbulent days of this kingdom, uſed to be the ſhambles of human fleſh, and covered with heads or quarters of unfortunate partizans. Even ſo late as the year 1598, Hentzner, the German traveller, with German accuracy, counted on it above thirty [298] heads *. The old map of the city, in 1597, repreſents them in a moſt horrible cluſter.

AT the ſouth end of the bridge one Peter Corbis, a Dutchman , in the year 1582, invented an engine to force the water of the Thames into leaden pipes, to ſupply many of the adjacent parts of the city. It has, ſince that time, been ſo greatly improved, by the ſkill of the Engliſh mechanics, as to become a moſt curious as well as uſeful piece of machinery, and to be extremely worthy the attention of that branch of ſcience.

DREADFUL CALAMITY BY FIRE.I MUST not quit the bridge, without noticing an unparalleled calamity, which happened on it within four years after it was finiſhed. A fire began on it at the Southwark end; multitudes of people ruſhed out of London to extinguiſh it; while they were engaged in this charitable deſign, the fire ſeized on the oppoſite end, and hemmed in the crowd. Above three thouſand perſons periſhed in the flames, or were drowned by overloading the veſſels which were hardy enough to attempt their relief.

A BRAVE ACTION.THE gallant action of Edmund Oſborne, anceſtor to the duke of Leeds, when he was apprentice to Sir William Hewet, cloth-worker, muſt by no means be forgotten. About the year 1536, when his maſter lived in one of theſe tremendous houſes, a ſervant-maid was playing with his only daughter in her arms, in a window over the water, and accidentally dropt the child. Young Oſborne, who was witneſs to the misfortune, inſtantly ſprung into the river, and, beyond all expectation, brought her ſafe to the terrified family. Several perſons of rank payed their addreſſes to her, [299] when ſhe was marriageable; among others, the earl of Shrewſbury: but Sir William gratefully decided in favor of Oſborne; OSBORNE, ſays he, ſaved her, and OSBORNE ſhall enjoy her *. In her right he poſſeſſed a great fortune. He became ſheriff of London in 1575; and lord mayor in 1582. I have ſeen the picture of his maſter at Kiveton, the ſeat of the duke of Leeds, a half length on board; his dreſs is a black gown furred, a red veſt and ſleeve, a gold chain, and a bonnet. He ſerved the office of lord mayor in 1559; and died in 1566. Strype miſtakes, when he ſays, that Sir William died in 1599, and was buried in the cathedral of St. Paul: another perſon of the ſame name lies there, under the handſome monument aſcribed by our old hiſtorian to the former.

Or the multitudes who have periſhed in this rapid deſcent, the names of no one, of any note, has reached my knowlege, except that of Mr. Temple, only ſon of the great Sir William Temple. His end was dreadful, as it was premeditated. He had, a week before, accepted, from king William, the office of Secretary of War. On the 14th of April, 1689, he hired a boat on the Thames, and directed the waterman to ſhoot the bridge; at that inſtant he flung himſelf into the torrent, and, having filled his pockets with ſtones, to deſtroy all chance of ſafety , inſtantly ſunk. In the boat was found a note to this effect: ‘My folly, in undertaking what I could not perform, whereby ſome misfortunes have befallen the king's ſervice, is the cauſe of my putting myſelf to [300] this ſudden end. I wiſh him ſucceſs in all his undertakings, and a better ſervant.’ I hope his father's reflection, on the occaſion, was a parental apology, not his real ſentiments: ‘That a wiſe man might diſpoſe of himſelf, and make his life as ſhort as he pleaſed.’ How ſtrongly did this great man militate againſt the precepts of Chriſtianity, and the ſolid arguments of a moſt wiſe and pious heathen *!

CHURCH OF ST. MAGNUS.VERY near to the northern end of the bridge, is the church of St. Magnus. It is probably a church of great antiquity; yet the firſt mention is in 1433. It was conſumed in the great fire, but within ten years was reſtored in the preſent handſome ſtyle. The bottom of the tower is open, ſo as to admit a moſt convenient thoroughfare to the numerous paſſengers.

A LITTLE higher up, on the left hand, is Eaſtcheap, immortalized by SHAKESPEARE, as the place of rendezvous of Sir John Falſtaff and his merry companions. Here ſtood the Boar's Head tavern; the ſite is now covered with modern houſes, but in the front of one is ſtill preſerved the memory of the ſign, the Boar's Head, cut in ſtone. Notwithſtanding the houſe is gone, we ſhall laugh at the humour of the jovial knight, his hoſteſs, Bardolph, and Piſtol, as long as the deſcriptive pages of our great dramatic writer exiſt in our entertained imagination. I muſt mention, that in the wall of another houſe is a Swan cut in ſtone; probably, in old times, the ſign of another tavern.

Figure 8. A VIEW [...] PART of LONDON as it appeared in the GREAT FIRE of 1666.

[...] Original Painting in Painter [...] Hall.

THIS ſtreet was famous, in old times, for its convivial doings; ‘The cookes cried hot ribbes of beef roſted, pies well baked, and other victuals : there was clattering of pewter, pots, harpe, pipe, and ſawtrie.’ Evident marks of the jollity of this quarter.

IN Pudding-lane, at a very ſmall diſtance from this church,FIRE IN 1666. begun the ever-memorable calamity by fire, on the 2d of September, 1666. In four days it conſumed every part of this noble city within the walls, except what lies within a line drawn from the north part of Coleman-ſtreet, and juſt to the ſouth-weſt of Leaden-hall, and from thence to the Tower. Its ravages were alſo extended without the walls, to the weſt, as far as Fetter-lane, and the Temple. As it begun in Pudding-lane, it ended in Smithfield at Pye-corner; which might occaſion the inſcription with the figure of a boy, on a houſe in the laſt place, now almoſt eraſed, which attributes the fire of LONDON to the ſin of gluttony. I leave the reader to conſult the ſecond volume of the City Remembrancer, for the melancholy detail.

[302]SIR Chriſtopher Wren was coeval to this misfortune. The plans his great genius offered to the public for rebuilding the city, with genuine taſte, and a ſplendor worthy of ancient Rome, were unfortunately rejected. Perhaps the times are not greatly to be blamed; there were a thouſand difficulties in reſpect to the diviſion of property; there was, in a vaſt commercial city, ſuch as London, a hurry to reſume their former occupations, and a prejudice for ancient ſites. It was difficult to perſuade people to relinquiſh, for a mere work of taſte, a ſpot productive of thouſands, to them or their predeceſſors. Theſe things conſidered, it is not to be wondered that we are left to admire, on paper only, the vaſt deſigns of our great architect. But ſtill he was the reſtorer of ſeveral of our public buildings: many of our temples aroſe with improved beauty from his plans; and ſeveral other buildings, which we have had, or ſhall have occaſion of mentioning.

THE MONUMENT.THAT aſtoniſhing proof of his genius, the Monument, is placed on the ſide of Fiſh-ſtreet, very near to the ſpot where the calamity began;

Where London's column, pointing at the ſkies,
Like a tall bully lifts its head and lyes.

It is a Doric column, two hundred and two feet high, fluted, and finiſhed with a trifling urn with flames, inſtead of a noble ſtatue of the reigning king, as the great architect propoſed. On the weſt ſide of the pedeſtal is a bas relief, cut by Gabriel Cibber, in admirable taſte. It repreſents emblematically this ſad cataſtrophe; Charles is ſeen, ſurrounded with Liberty, Genius, and Science, giving directions for the reſtoring of the city. Here the ſculptor [303] found, luckily, one example to compliment the attention of the thoughtleſs monarch towards the good of his ſubjects; for, during the horrors of the conflagration, and after it was ſubdued, his endeavours to ſtop the evil, and to remedy the effect, were truly indefatigable. The king was ſeriouſly affected by this calamity, and many emotions of piety and devotion were excited in him. There was, for a ſhort time, great reaſon to expect the fruits of this his brief return to Heaven: but they were quickly blaſted by the uncommon wickedneſs of the people about him, who, by every prophane witticiſm on the recent calamity, and even by ſuggeſting that it was the bleſſing of God, to humble this rebellious city, and to prepare it for his yoke, ſoon removed every good thought from the royal breaſt *. This noble column was begun in 1671; and finiſhed in 1677, at the expence of £. 14,500. A melancholy period of party rage: and the inſcription was permitted. The damage ſuſtained by the cruel element, was computed at ten millions ſeven hundred and ſixteen thouſand pounds. But Providence, mingling mercy with juſtice, ſuffered only the loſt of a very few lives.

GREAT as this calamity was, yet it proved the providential cauſe of putting a ſtop to one of a far more tremendous nature. The plague, which, for a ſeries of ages, had, with very ſhort intervals, viſited our capital in its moſt dreadful forms, never appeared there again after the rebuilding of the city in a more open and airy manner, which removed ſeveral nuſanoes; which, if not the actual origin of a plague, was aſſuredly one great pabulum, when [304] it had ſeized our ſtreets. The laſt was in the year 1665, when in about ſix months, by the ſmalleſt computation, a hundred and threeſcore thouſand people fell by the deſtroying angel.

ALMOST oppoſite to the place where the monument now ſtands, was a large ſtone houſe, the habitation of Edward, our famous black prince, the flower of Engliſh chivalry. In Stow's time it was altered to a common hoſterie or inn, having a black bell for the ſign *.

FISHMONGERS-HALL.AT a ſmall diſtance, to the weſt of the bridge, is Fiſhmongers-hall, a very handſome building, erected ſince the deſtruction of the old hall by the great fire. It faces the river, and commands a fine view of the water and the bridge. In the court-room are ſeveral pictures of the various ſorts of vendible fiſhes. A printed catalogue of the ſpecies and varieties, with their ſeaſons, was preſented to me when I viſited the place. At this and every other hall I met with the utmoſt urbanity. As an humble hiſtorian of the fiſhy tribe, I truſt that I am not to be condemned to the Pygmalion proſpect of theſe delicacies; but, on my next viſit to town, may be honored with a card, in order to form a practical judgment of what hitherto [...] only feaſted my eyes!!!

IN the great hall is a wooden ſtatue of the brave Sir William Walworth, armed with his rebel-killing dagger; here is alſo another of St. Peter: the former was of this company; the latter with great propriety is adopted as its titular ſaint. The arms of the benefactors are beautifully expreſſed in painted glaſs on the ſeveral windows.

[305]THIS is one of the twelve great companies: it originally was divided into Stock-mongers, and Saltfiſh-mongers; the firſt were incorporated in 1433; a period in which we had very conſiderable trade with Iceland in that very article *: the laſt not till 1509, but were united in 1536. There was once a deſperate feud between this company and the Goldſmiths, about precedency. The parties grew ſo violent, that the mayor and aldermen, by their own authority, were obliged to pronounce them rebels, and even bannifiati, or baniſhed the city, ſuch of them who perſiſted in their contumacy . I fear that, in old times, the Goldſmiths were a pugnacious ſociety; for I read, in 1268, of a deſperate battle between them and the Taylors, in which numbers were ſlain. This company pays £. 500 a year to charitable uſes.

THE next place I ſhall take notice of, to the weſt of this hall,COLD HARBOUR. was Cold Harbour, mentioned as a tenement as early as the reign of Edward II. A magnificent houſe was, in after-times, built on the ſpot, which, from its occupant, Sir John Poultney, four times mayor of London, was, in the ſtyle of the times, called Poultney-Inn: POULTNEY-INN. for the town habitations of moſt of the great men were called Inns. Warwick-Inn w [...] palace of the great kingmaker, and many others had the ſame addition. In feudal days the town had no pleaſures to attract the great; they ſeldom came there but to ſupport a cauſe (as now and then is the caſe with a modern ſenator), to make or unmake a king, or lay the foundation of civil broils. In 1397, it was the Inn of John Holland, duke of Exeter, and earl of Huntingdon, who here gave a dinner, and doubtleſsly a very magnificent one, to his half-brother [306] Richard II. Next year it became the inn of Edmund of Langley, earl of Cambridge, but ſtill retained the addition of Poultney. In 1472, Henry Holland, duke of Exeter, lodged in it. In 1485, Richard III, granted it to Garter king of arms, and his brother heralds. In the time of Henry VIII. it became the lodgings of Tonſtal, biſhop of Durham. On his depoſal it was granted to the earl of Shrewſbury, by Edward VI; and changed its name to that of Shrewſbury-houſe.

STEEL-YARD.TO the weſt of this place was the Steel-yard, a moſt noted quay for the landing of wheat, rye, and other grain; cables, maſts, tar, flax, hemp, linen cloth, wainſcot, wax, ſteel, and other merchandize, imported by the Eaſterlings, or Germans. Here was the Guildhalda Teutonicorum, or Guildhall of thoſe people. They were our maſters in the art of commerce, and ſettled here even before the eleventh century. For we find them here in the year 9 [...]9, at leſt in the time of king Ethelred: for the Emperor's men, i. e. the Germans of the Steel-yard, coming with their ſhips, were accounted worthy of good laws. They were not to foreſtall the market from the burghers of London; and to pay toll, at Chriſtmas, two grey cloths, and one brown one, with ten pounds of pepper, five pair of gloves, two veſſels of vinegar; and as many at Eaſter. The name of this wharf is not taken from Steel the metal, which was only a ſingle article, but from Stael-hoff, contracted from Stapel-hoff, or the general houſe of trade of the German nation. The powerful league of the Hanſe Towns, and the profits we made of their trade (for they were for a long ſeaſon the great importers of this kingdom) procured for them great privileges. They had an alderman of London for their judge, in caſe of diſputes; and they were to be free from all ſubſidies to the [307] king, or his heirs; ſaving, ſays the king, to us and our heirs, our antient prizes, priſis juribuſque conſuetudinibus coſtumiſque *. In return for theſe diſtinguiſhing favors, they were to keep in repair the gate called Biſhopſgate. In 1282, they were called on to perform their duty, the gate being at that time in a ruinous ſtate; they refuſed; but being compelled by law, Gerard Marbod, their alderman, advanced the neceſſary ſum. In 1479, it was even rebuilt in a moſt magnificent manner, by the merchants of the Steel-yard. As they decreaſed in ſtrength, and we grew more powerful and more politic, we began to abridge their privileges. We found that this potent company, by their weight, interfered with the intereſt of the natives, and damped their ſpirit of trade. After ſeveral revocations and renewals of the charter, the houſe, in 1597, was ſhut up, by our wiſe and patriotic queen, and the German inhabitants expelled the kingdom.

AT this time it is the great repoſitory of the imported iron, which furniſhes our metropolis with that neceſſary material. The quantity of bars, that fill the yards and warehouſes of this quarter, ſtrike with aſtoniſhment the moſt indifferent beholder. Next to the water-ſide are two eagles, with imperial crowns round their necks, placed on two columns.

IN the hall of this company were the two famous pictures, painted in diſtemper by Holbein, repreſenting the triumphs of Riches and Poverty. They were loſt, being ſuppoſed to have been carried into Flanders, on the deſtruction of the company, and from thence into France. I am to learn where they are at preſent, unleſs in the cabinet of M. Fleiſchman, at Heſſe-Darmſtadt. [308] The celebrated Chriſtian a Mechel, of Baſil, has lately publiſhed two engravings of theſe pictures, either from the originals, or the drawings by Zucchero; for Frid. Zucchero, 1574, is at one corner of each print. Drawings of theſe pictures were found in England, by Vertue, aſcribed to Helbein; and the verſes over them to Sir Thomas More *. It appears that Zucchero copied them at the Steel-yard , ſo probably thoſe copies, in proceſs of time, might have fallen into the hands of M. Fleiſchman.

IN the triumph of Riches, Plutus is repreſented in a golden car, and Fortune ſitting before him, flinging money into the laps of people, holding up their garments to receive her favors: Ventidius is wrote under one; Gadareus under another; and Themiſtocles under a man kneeling beſide the car: Croeſus, Midas, and Tantalus follow; Narciſſus holds the horſe of the firſt: over their heads, in the clouds, is Nemeſis. There are various allegorical figures, I ſhall not attempt to explain. By the ſides of the horſes walk dropſical and other diſeaſed figures, the too frequent attendants of riches.

POVERTY appears in another car, mean and ſhattered, half naked, ſqualid, and meagre. Behind her ſits Misfortune; before her Memory, Experience, Induſtry, and Hope. The car is drawn by a pair of oxen, and a pair of aſſes; Diligence drives the aſs; and Sclicitude, with a face of care, goads the ox. By the ſides of the car walks Labor, repreſented by luſty workmen with their tools, with chearful looks; and behind them Miſery, and Beggary, in ragged weeds, and with countenances replete with wretchedneſs and diſcontent.

[309]NOT remote from hence formerly ſtood the Erber, THE ERBER. a vaſt houſe or palace. Edward III. for it is not traced higher, granted it to one of the noble family of the Scroopes; from them it fell to the Nevills. Richard, the great earl of Warwick, poſſeſſed it, and lodged here his father, the earl of Saliſbury, with five hundred men, in the famous congreſs of barons, in the year 1458, in which Henry VI. may be ſaid to have been virtually depoſed. It often changed maſters: Richard III. repaired it, in whoſe time it was called the King's Palace. It was rebuilt by Sir Thomas Pulliſon, mayor, in 1584; and afterwards dignified by being the reſidence of our illuſtrious navigator Sir Francis Drake.

BEYOND the Steel-yards is Dowgate, now a place of little note.DOWGATE. Here ſtood one of the Roman gates, through which was the way for paſſengers, who took boat at the trajectus, or ferry, into the continuation of the military way towards Dover. The Britons are ſuppoſed to have given it the name of Dwr or Dwy, water; and the Saxons added the word gate, which ſignifies way. It became a noted wharf, and was called the port of Downgate. In the time of Henry III. and Edward III. cuſtoms were to be paid by ſhips reſting there, in the ſame manner as if they rode at Queenhithe.

NEAR Dowgate runs concealed into the Thames the antient Wal-brook, or river of Wells, mentioned in a charter of the Conqueror to the college of St. Martin le Grand. It riſes to the north of Moorfields, and paſſed through London Wall, between Biſhopſgate and Moorgate, and ran through the city; for a long time it was quite expoſed, and had over it ſeveral bridges, which were maintained by the priors of certain religious houſes, and [310] others. Between two and three centuries ago it was vaulted over with brick *; the top paved, and formed into a ſtreet; and, for a long time paſt, known only by name.

THREE CRANESTHE Three Cranes, in the Vintry, was the next wharf, which, in old times, by royal order, was allotted for the landing of wines, as the name imports. The Cranes were the three machines uſed for the landing of the wines, ſuch as we uſe to this day. In the adjacent lane was the Painted Tavern, famous as early as the time of Richard II. [...] VINTRIE. In this neighborhood was the great houſe called the Vintrie, with vaſt wine-vaults beneath. Here, in 1314, reſided Sir John Giſors, lord mayor, and conſtable of the Tower. But the memorable feaſting of another owner, Sir Henry Picard, vintner, lord mayor in 1356, muſt not be forgotten, who, ‘in one day, did ſumptuouſly feaſt Edward king of England, John king of France, the king of Cipres (then arrived in England,) David king of Scots, Edward prince of Wales, with many noblemen, and other: and after, the ſayd Henry Picard kept his hall againſt all commers whoſoeuer, that were willing to play at dice and hazard. In like manner the lady Margaret, his wife, did alſo keepe her chamber to the ſame intent. The king of Cipres, playing with Henry Picard, in his hall, did winne of him fifty markes; but Henry, beeing very ſkilfull in that art, altering his hand, did after winne of the ſame king the ſame fifty markes, and fifty markes more; which when the ſame king began to take in ill part, although hee diſſembled the ſame, Henry ſaid unto him, My lord and king, be not agreeued, I court not your gold, but your play, for I have not bidd [311] you hither that I might grieue, but that amongſt other things I might your play; and gave him his money againe, plentifully beſtowing of his owne amongſt the retinue: beſides, he gave many rich gifts to the king, and other nobles and knights, which dined with him, to the great glory of the cittizens of London in thoſe days *.’

VINTNERS-HALL faces Thames ſtreet. VINTNERS-HALL. It is diſtinguiſhed by the figure of Bacchus ſtriding his tun, placed on the columns of the gate. In the great hall is a good picture of St. Martin, on a white horſe, dividing his cloak with our Saviour, who appeared to him in the year 337, in the character of a beggar.

Hic CHRISTO chlamydem Martinus dimidiavit;
Ut faciamus idem nobis exemplificavit.

There is, beſides, a ſtatue of that ſaint in the ſame room; and another picture of him above ſtairs. Why this ſaint was ſelected as patron of the company I know not, except they imagined that the ſaint, actuated by good wine, had been inſpired with good thoughts; which, according to the argument of James Howel, producing good works, brought a man to Heaven. And, to ſhew the moral in a contrary effect, here is a picture of Lot and his inceſtuous daughters, exemplifying the danger of the abuſe of the beſt things.

THIS hall was built on ground given by Sir John Stodie, vintner, lord mayor in 1357. It was called the manour of the Vintre. The Vintners, or Vintonners, were incorporated in the reign of Edward III. They were originally divided into Vinetarii et Tabernarii; [312] Vintners who imported the wine, and Taverners who kept taverns, and retailed it for the former. The company flouriſhed ſo much, that, from its inſtitution till the year 1711, it produced not fewer than fourteen lord mayors, many of which were the keepers of taverns. Yet, in the time of Edward III. the Gaſcoigne wines were not ſold at the rate of above 4 d. a gallon; nor the Rheniſh above 6 d. In 1379, red wine was 4 d. a gallon; and a little after, the price of a tun £. 4. As late as the year 1552, the Gu [...]nne and Gaſcoigne wines were ſold at 8 d. a gallon; and no wines were to exceed the price of 12d. To reſtrain luxury, it was at the ſame time enacted, that no perſon, except thoſe who could expend 100 marks annually, or was worth 1000 marks, or was the ſon of a duke, marquiſs, earl, viſcount, or baron of the realm, ſhould keep in his houſe any veſſel of wine, for his family uſe, exceeding ten gallons, under penalty of ten pounds.

OUR great wine trade was at firſt with Bourdeaux, and the neighboring provinces; it commenced as early as the Conqueſt, perhaps ſooner *. But it became very conſiderable in the reign of Henry II. by reaſon of his marriage with Elianor, daughter of the duke of Aquitaine; our conqueſt of that, and other great wine-provinces of France, increaſed the trade to a high degree, and made great fortunes among the adventurers of this company. In aftertimes, when ſweet wines came into faſhion, we had conſiderable intercourſe with the Canary iſlands.

SIR RICHARD WHITTINGTON.I MUST not be ſilent about the celebrated Sir Richard Whittington, three times lord mayor of London, in 1397, 1406, and 1419. I ſhall leave the hiſtory of his cat to the friend of my younger [313] days, Punch, and his dramatical troop. But will not omit ſaying, that his good fortune was not without parallel, for it is recorded, ‘how Alphonſo, a Portugueſe, being wrecked on the coaſt of Guinney, and being preſented by the king thereof with his weight in gold for a Cat, to kill their mice, and an oyntment to kill their flies, which he improved, within five years, to £. 6000 on the place, and returning to Portugal, after 15 years traffick, becoming the third man in the kingdom *.’

OUR munificent citizen founded, near this place, Whittington College, in the church of St. Michael Royal, rebuilt by him, and finiſhed by his executors in 1424. The college was dedicated to die Holy Ghoſt, and the Virgin Mary, and had in it an eſtabliſhment of a maſter and four fellows, clerks, choriſters, &c.; and near it an almſhouſe for thirteen poor people. The college was ſuppreſſed at the reformation, but the almſhouſes ſtill exiſt .

THIS great man was thrice buried: once by his executors, under a magnificent monument, in the church which he had built; but by the ſacrilege of Thomas Mountein, rector, in the reign of Edward VI. who expected great riches in his tomb, it was broke open, and the body ſpoiled of its leaden ſheet, and then committed again to its place §. In the next reign the body was again taken up, to renew a decent covering, and depoſited the third time. His epitaph began thus:

Ut fragrans nardus, fama ſuit iſte Ricardus,
Albificans villam qui juſtè rexerat illam,
Flos mercatorum, ſundator Preſbyterorum, &c .

[314] TOWER ROYAL.THE Tower Royal, which ſtood in a ſtreet of the ſame name, a little beyond this church, muſt not paſs unnoticed. It was ſuppoſed to have been founded by Henry I; and, according to Stow, it was the reſidence of king Stephen. Whether it was deſtroyed by any accident does not appear: but in the reign of Edward I. it was no more than a ſimple tenement, held by one Simon Beawmes. In that of Edward III. it acquired the title of Royal, and the Inn Royal, as having been the reſidence of the king: under that name he beſtowed it on the college of St. Stephen, Weſtminſter; but it reverted to the crown, and in the time of Richard II. was called the Queen's Wardrobe *. It muſt have been a place of great ſtrength; for, when the rebels, under Wat Tyler, had made themſelves maſters of THE TOWER, and forced from thence the archbiſhop of Canterbury, and every other victim to their barbarity, this place remained ſecure. Hither the princeſs Joan, the royal mother, retired during the time the rebels were committing every exceſs in all parts of the town; and here the youthful monarch found her, after he had, by his wonderful calmneſs and prudence, put an end to this peſtilential inſurrection .

IN this tower Richard, in 1386, lodged, when his royal gueſt Leon III. king of Armenia, or, as Holinſhed calls him, Lyon king of Armony (Armenia) who had been expelled his kingdom by the Turks, took refuge in England. Richard treated him with the utmoſt munificence, loaded him with gifts, and ſettled on the unfortunate [315] prince a thouſand pounds a year for life. After two months ſtay, he returned into France, where he alſo met with a reception ſuitable to his rank *; and dying at Paris, in 1393, was interred in the Celeſtins, where his tomb is to be ſeen to this day .

JOHN duke of Norfolk, the faithful adherent of the uſurper Richard III. had a grant of this tower from his maſter, and made it his reſidence .

NEAR the water-ſide, a little to the weſt of Vintners-hall, ſtood Worceſter Place, the houſe of the accompliſhed John Tiptoft, WORCESTER PLACE. earl of Worceſter, lord high treaſurer of England. All his love for the ſciences could not ſoften in him the ferocious temper of the unhappy times he lived in. While he was in Ireland, he cruelly deſtroyed two infants of the Deſmond family. And, in 1470, ſitting in judgment on twenty gentlemen and yeomen, taken at ſea near Southampton, he cauſed them to be hanged and beheaded, then hung by their legs, and their heads ſtuck on a ſtake driven into their fundaments. He had deſerted the cauſe of Henry, and was beheaded by order of the great earl of Warwick, who had juſt before thought proper to quit that of Edward.

THE next place of antiquity, on the banks of the Thames, QUEEN-HITHE. is Queen-hithe, or harbour: its original name was Edred's-hithe, and poſſibly exiſted in the time of the Saxons. This was one of the places for large boats, and even ſhips, to diſcharge their lading; for there was a draw-bridge in one part of London-bridge, which [316] was pulled up, occaſionally, to admit the paſſage of large veſſels; expreſs care being taken to land corn, fiſh, and proviſions, in different places, for the conveniency of the inhabitants; and other hithes were appointed for the landing of different merchandiſe, in order that buſineſs might be carried on with regularity. When this hithe fell into the hands of king Stephen, he beſtowed it on William de Ypres, who, in his piety, again gave it to the convent of the Holy Trinity, within Aldgate. It again fell to the crown, in the time of Henry III. and then acquired its preſent name, being called Ripa Reginae, the Queen's Wharf. That monarch compelled the ſhips of the cinque ports to bring their corn here, and to no other place. It probably was part of her majeſty's pin-money, by the attention paid to her intereſt in the affiair.

BEAUMONT-INN.I CANNOT aſcertain the place, but in Thames ſtreet, ſomewhere to the north-eaſt of St. Paul's wharf, ſtood Beaumont-Inn, or houſe, the reſidence of the noble family of that name. Edward IV. in 1465, preſented it to his favorite, the lord Haſtings. On the advancement of his grandſon to the earldom of Huntingdon, it was named after the title of the noble poſſeſſors.

PAINTER- [...]INERS HALL.OPPOSITE to Queen-hithe, on the ſouth ſide of Thames-ſtreet, is Little Trinity Lane, where the company of Painter-ſtainers have their hall. Theſe artiſts formed themſelves into a fraternity as early as the reign of Edward III. and alſo erected themſelves into a company; but were not incorporated. They ſtyled themſelves Painter-ſtainers; the chief work being the ſtaining or painting of glaſs, illuminating miſſals, or painting of portatif or other altars, and now and then a portrait; witneſs that of Richard II. and the portraits of the great John Talbot and his wife, preſerved at [317] Caſtle Aſhby *. In the year 1575, they found that plaiſterers, and all ſorts of unſkilful perſons, intermeddled in their buſineſs, and brought their art into diſrepute by the badneſs and ſlightneſs of their work. They determined (as the ſurgeons in later days) to keep their myſtery pure from all pretenders. They were incorporated in 1576, had their maſter, warden, and common ſeal: George Gower was queen Elizabeth's ſerjeant painter ; but, as I do not find his name in Mr. Walpole's, Anecdotes, I ſuſpect his art was confined to the humbler part. This corporation extended only to ſuch artiſts who practiſed within the city. As art is unconfined, numbers aroſe in different parts, and ſettled in Weſt-minſter, the ſeat of the court. They for a long time remained totally unconnected even with each other. About the year 1576, they ſolicited and received the royal patronage, and were incorporated under the title of maſter, wardens, and commonalty of Painter-ſtainers. The majority are independent of any other body corporate; but ſeveral among them are regular freemen of the city under the antient company.

THE next remarkable place is Baynard Caſtle, BAYNARD CASTLE. one of the two caſtles built on the weſt end of the town, "with walls and ramparts," mentioned by Fitzſtephens. It took its name from its founder, a nobleman and follower of the Conqueror, and who died in the reign of William Rufus. It was forfeited to the crown in 1111, by one of his deſcendants. Henry I. beſtowed it on Robert Fitz-Richard, fifth ſon of Richard de Tonebrugge, ſon of Gilbert earl of Clare . To this family did appertain, in right of [318] the caſtle, the office of caſtilian, and banner-bearer of the city of London. There is a curious declaration of their rights, in the perſon of Robert Fitzwalter, one of his deſcendants, expreſſing his duty in time of war, made in all the fullneſs of chivalry, in 1303, before John Blondon, then lord mayor. It is there recited, that,RIGHTS OF ROBERT FITZ [...]A [...]TE [...], C [...] IAN AND STANDARD- [...]RER OF LONDON IN TIME OF WAR. ‘The ſayd Robert, and his heyres, ought to be, and are chiefe bannerers of London, in ſee for the chaſtilarie, which he and his anceſtors had by Caſtell Baynard, in the ſaid city. In time of warre, the ſayd Robert, and his heyers, ought to ſerve the citie in manner as followeth: that is,’

‘THE ſayd Robert ought to come, he beeing the twentith man of armes, on horſebacke, covered with cloth, or armour, unto the great weſt doore of Saint Paul, with his banner diſplayed before him of his armes. And when hee is come to the ſayd doore, mounted and apparelled as before is ſaid, the maior, with his aldermen and ſheriffes, armed in their armes, ſhall come out of the ſayd church of Saint Paul unto the ſayd doore, with a banner in his hand, all on foote: which banner ſhall be gules,BANNER OF ST. PAUL. the image of Saint Paul, gold; the face, hands, feete, and ſword of ſilver: and aſſoone as the ſayd Robert ſhall ſee the maior, aldermen, and ſheriffes come on foot out of the church, armed with ſuch a banner, he ſhall alight from his horſe, and ſalute the maior, and ſay to him, Sir maior, I am come to do my ſervice, which I owe to the citie. And the maior and aldermen ſhall anſwere. We give to you, as to our bannerer of ſee in this citie, this banner of this citie to beare and governe, to the honour and profite of the citie, to our power. And the ſayd Robert, and his heyers, ſhall receive the banner in his hands, and ſhall go on foote out of the gate, with the banner in [319] his hands; and the maior, aldermen, and ſheriffes ſhall follow to the doore, and ſhall bring a horſe to the ſaid Robert, worth twenty pound, which horſe ſhall be ſaddled with a ſaddle of the armes of the ſaid Robert, and ſhall be covered with ſindals of the ſayd armes. Alſo, they ſhall preſent to him twenty pounds ſtarling money, and deliver it to the chamberlaine of the ſayd Robert, for his expences that day. Then the ſaid Robert ſhall mount upon the horſe, which the maior preſented to him, with the banner in his hand, and as ſoon as he is up, he ſhall ſay to the maior, that he cauſe a marſhall to be choſen for the hoſt, one of the citie; which marſhall being choſen, the ſaid Robert ſhall command the maior and burgeſſes of the citie to warne the commoners to aſſemble together; and they ſhall all goe under the banner of Saint Paul: and the ſaid Robert ſhall beare it himſelf unto Aldgate; and there the ſaid Robert and maior ſhall deliver the ſaid banner of Saint Paul from thence, to whom they ſhall aſſent or think good. And if they muſt make any iſſue forth of the citie, then the ſayd Robert ought to chooſe two forth of every ward, the moſt ſage perſonages, to foreſee to the ſafe keeping of the citie after they bee gone forth. And this counſell ſhall be taken in the priorie of the Trinitie, neere unto Aldgate; and againe before every towne or caſtell, which the hoſt of London ſhall beſiege; if the ſiege continue a whole yeere, the ſayd Robert ſhall have for every ſiege, of the communalty of London, a 100 ſhillings for his travaile and no more.’

‘THESE be the rights that the ſaid Robert hath in the time of warre. Rights belonging to Robert Fitzwalter, IN TIME OF PEACE. and to his heires, in the citie of Lond. in the time of peace, are theſe; [320] that is to ſay, The ſayd Robert hath a ſoken or ward in the citie, that is, a wall of the canonrie of Saint Paul, as a man goeth downe the ſtreet, before the brewhouſe of Saint Paul, unto the Thames, and ſo to the ſide of the mill, which is in the water that commeth down from the Fleet-bridge, and goeth ſo by London wals, betwixt the Friers preachers and Ludgate, and ſo returneth backe by the houſe of the ſayd Friers, unto the ſayd wall of the ſayd canonrie of Saint Paul, that is, all the pariſh of Saint Andrew, which is in the gift of his anceſtors, by the ſayd ſigniority: and ſo the ſaid Robert hath, appendant unto the ſayd ſoken, all theſe things underwritten: That hee ought to have a ſokemanrie, or the ſame ward; and if any of the ſokemanry be impleaded in the Guild-hall, of any thing that toucheth not the body of the maior that for the time is, or that toucheth the body of no ſheriffe, it is not lawful for the ſokeman of the ſokemanry of the ſayd Robert; and the maior, and his citizens of London, ought to grant him to have a court, and in his court he ought to bring his judgements, as it is aſſented and agreed upon in the Guild hall, that ſhall be given them.’

‘IF any therefore be taken in his ſokemanrie, he ought to have his ſtockes and impriſonment in his ſoken, and he ſhall be brought from thence to Guild-hall, before the maior, and there they ſhall provide him his judgement that ought to be given of him: but his judgement ſhall not be publiſhed till he come into the court of the ſayd Robert, and in his libertie. And the judgement ſhall be ſuch, that if he have deſerved death by treaſon, he to be tied to a poſt in the Thames at a good wharf, where boats are faſtened, two ebbings and two flowings of the water. And if he be condemned for a common thief, [321] he ought to be led to the Elmes, and there ſuffer his judgement as other theeves. And ſo the ſaid Robert and his heirs hath honour, that he holdeth a great franches within the citie, that the maior of the city, and citizens, are bound to doe him of right; that is to ſay, that when the maior will hold a great counſaile, he ought to call the ſaid Robert and his heyres, to be with him in counſaile of the citie; and the ſaid Robert ought to be ſworne, to be of counſaile with the city againſt all people, ſaving the king and his heirs. And when the ſaid Robert commeth to the huſtings, in the Guild-hall of the citie, the maior or his lieutenant ought to riſe againſt him, and ſet him downe neere unto him; and ſo long as he is in the Guild-hall, al the judgements ought to be given by his mouth, according to the record of the recorders of the ſaid Guild-hall. And ſo many waifes as come, ſo long as he is there he ought to give them to the bayliffes of the towne, or to whom he wil, by the counſaile of the maior of the citie.’

IN 1428, the old caſtle was burnt:B [...] CASTLE BURNI AND R [...]. it probably at that time had changed maſters, for it was rebuilt by Humphrey duke of Glouceſter. On his death it was granted, by Henry VI. to Richard duke of York. In the important convention of the great men of the kingdom, in 1458, the prelude to the bloody civil broils, Richard lodged here with his train of four hundred men; and all his noble partizans had their warlike ſuite. Let me ſay, that the king-making earl came attended with ſix hundred men, all in red jackets embroidered, with ragged ſtaves, before and behind, and were lodged in Warwick-lane; in whoſe houſe there was often the ſcene of boundleſs hoſpitality, the inſtrument of his furious ſpirit and boundleſs ambition.

[322]THIS mighty peer, in all his caſtles, was ſuppoſed to feed annually thirty thouſand men. But Baynard Caſtle was the ſcene of a ſtill more important action in 1460; the youthful Edward aſſumed the name and dignity of king, confirmed by a number of perſons of rank aſſembled in this place, after it had been conferred on him by a mixed and tumultuary multitude.

THE uſurper Richard in the very ſame caſtle took on him the title of king. Here he was waited on by his creature Buckingham, the mayor, and ſuch part of the citizens who had been prepared for the purpoſe of forcing the crown on the ſeemingly reluctant hypocrite. SHAKESPEARE has made an admirable ſcene cut of this part of our hiſtory *. His ſucceſſor repaired, or perhaps rebuilt Baynard Caſtle, and, as if foreſeeing a long ſeries of peaceful years, changed its form into that of a palace for quiet times. According to the view I have ſeen, it included a ſquare court, with an octagonal tower in the center, and two in the front; between which were ſeveral ſquare projections from top to bottom, with the windows in pairs one above the other; beneath was a bridge and ſtairs to the river .

HENRY often reſided here, and from hence made ſeveral of his ſolemn proceſſions. Here, in 1505, he lodged Philip of Auſtria, the matrimonial king of Caſtile, tempeſt-driven into his dominions, and ſhewed him the pomp and glory of his capital .

THIS caſtle was the reſidence of Sir William Sydney, who died chamberlain and ſteward to Edward VI. And in this place Mary, the gloomy queen of the gloomy nameſake of the former, [323] had her right to the throne reſolved on; and from hence her partizans ſallied forth to proclame her lawful title. At this time it was the property and reſidence of William Herbert, earl of Pembroke, a particular favorer of the rightful heir. Her ſucceſſor, Elizabeth, did him the honor of taking a ſupper with his lordſhip: after ſupper, her majeſty went on the water to ſhew herſelf to her ſubjects; her barge was inſtantly ſurrounded by hundreds of boats; loud acclamations delivered from the heart, muſic, and fireworks teſtified the happineſs they felt at the ſight of this mother of her people. Early hours were then the faſhion, for, notwithſtanding this ſcene was exhibited on the 25th of April, ſhe retired to her palace at 10 o'clock *.

To the weſt of this ſtood the other of Fitzſtephen's caſtles,TOWER OF MONTFICHET. the tower of Montfichet, founded by Gilbert de Montfichet, a native of Rome, but related to the Conqueror: he brought with him a ſtrong force, and fought gallantly in his cauſe, in the field of Haſtings . By him was founded this tower: its date was ſhort, for it was demoliſhed by king John in 1213, after baniſhing Richard, ſucceſſor to Gilbert, the actual owner . The materials were applied, in 1276 (as before related) to the building of the monaſtery of the Black Friars.

A LITTLE farther is Puddle Dock, and Puddle Dock Hill, PUDDLE DOCK. remarkable only for having in the latter the weſtern termination of the long ſtreet called Thames-ſtreet, THAMES-STREET. which extends eaſtward as far as the Tower, a mile in length. In early times, the ſouthern ſide [324] was guarded by a wall, cloſe to the river, ſtrengthened with towers. Theſe are mentioned by Fitzſtephens as having been ruined and undermined by the river. Lord Lyttelton juſtly obſerves, that after the building of the Tower and the bridge, there was no neceſſity of reſtoring theſe fortifications; as it was impoſſible (at leſt after the bridge was flung acroſs the Thames) for any fleet to annoy the city. It originally ſtood farther from the river than the preſent buildings and wharſs, a conſiderable ſpace between the ſtreet and the water having been gained in a long ſeries of ages.

NOT far from Puddle Dock, in old times, ſtood an antient houſe of ſtone and timber, built by the lords of Berkely, a potent race of barons. In the reign of Henry VI. it was the reſidence of the great Richard Beauchamp, earl of Warwick *, who ſeems to have made himſelf maſter of this by violence, among other eſtates of the Berkelles, to which he made pretenſions on the death of Thomas fourth lord Berkeley .

FROM hence I turn north till I gain the ſite of Ludgate. On the left all is piety; Credo-lane, Ave Maria! lane, Amen Corner, and Pater-Noſter-row, indicate the ſanctity of the motley inhabitants. Before us riſes the magnificent ſtructure of St. Paul's, and its confined church-yard. Before I mention that noble temple, I purſue the left hand way to Warwick-lane;

Where ſtands a dome majeſtic to the ſight,
And ſumptuous arches bear its oval height;
A golden globe, plac'd high with artful ſkill,
Seems to the diſtant ſight a gilded pill.

[325] In proſe, the College of Phyſicians; COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS a ſociety founded originally by Doctor Linacre, the firſt who reſcued the medical art from the hands of illiterate monks and empirics. He ſtudied in Italy: and became phyſician to Henry VII. and VIII. Edward VI. and the princeſs Mary. He died in 1524 *. The college was firſt in Knight-Rider-ſtreet; afterwards it was removed to Amen Corner; and finally fixed here. The preſent building was the work of Sir Chriſtopher Wren. On the top of the dome is a gilt ball, which the witty Garth calls the gilded pill. On the ſummit of the centre is the bird of Aeſculapius, the admoniſhing cock.

ON one ſide of the court is a ſtatue of Charles II: on the oppoſite, that of the notorious Sir John Cutler. I was greatly at a loſs to learn how ſo much reſpect was ſhewn to a character ſo ſtigmatized for avarice. I think myſelf much indebted to Doctor WARREN for the extraordinary hiſtory. It appears, by the annals of the college, that in the year 1674, a conſiderable ſum of money had been ſubſcribed by the fellows, for the erection of a new college, the old one having been conſumed in the great fire, eight years before. It alſo appears, that Sir John Cutler, a near relation of Doctor Whiſtler, the preſident, was deſirous of becoming a benefactor. A committee was appointed to wait upon Sir John, to thank him for his kind intentions. He accepted their thanks, renewed his promiſe, and ſpecified the part of the building of which he intended to bear the expence. In the year 1680, ſtatues in honor of the king, and Sir John, were voted by the college: and nine years afterwards, the college being then completed, [326] it was reſolved to borrow money of Sir John Cutler, to diſcharge the college debt, but the ſum is not ſpecified. It appears, however, that in 1699, Sir John's executors made a demand on the college of £. 7000; which ſum was ſuppoſed to include the money actually lent, the money pretended to be given, but ſet down as a debt in Sir John's books, and the intereſt on both. Lord Radnor, however, and Mr. Boulter, Sir John Cutler's executors, were prevaled on to accept £. 2000 from the college, and actually remitted the other five. So that Sir John's promiſe, which he never performed, obtained him the ſtatue, and the liberality of his executors has kept it in its place ever ſince. But the college wiſely have obliterated the inſcription, which, in the warmth of its gratitude, it had placed beneath the figure.

OMNIS CUTLER [...] CEDAT LABOR AMPHITHEATRO.

[...]ORTRAITE.IN the great room are ſeveral portraits of gentlemen of the faculty. Among them Sir Theodore Mayerne, a native of Geneva, phyſician to James and Charles I. The great Sydenham, to whom thouſands owe their lives, by his daring attempt (too long neglected) of the cool regimen in the ſmall-pox. Harvey, who firſt diſcovered the circulation of the blood. And the learned and pious Sir Thomas Brown, who ſaid that the diſcovery of that great man's, was preferable to the diſcovery of the New World.

SIR Edmund King, the famous transfuſer of blood from one animal into another; a diſcovery, if purſued, of infinite conſequence, in a moral, as well as a phyſical light.

A VERY good portrait of the anatomiſt Ve [...]lius, on board, by [...]n Calker, a painter from the dutchy of Cloves, who died in 1 [...]6. This celebrated character had filled the profeſſor's chair [327] at Venice; after that, was for ſome time phyſician to Charles V. Diſguſted with the manners of a court, he determined on a voyage to the Holy Land. The republic of Venice ſent to him to fill the profeſſorſhip of medicine at Padua, vacant by the death of Fallopius. On his return, in 1564, he was ſhipwrecked on the iſle of Zanta, where he periſhed by hunger.

Doctor Goodal, the Stentor of Garth's diſpenſary; and Doctor Millington, whom the witty author compliments with the following lines, and, from what I underſtand, with great juſtice;

Machaon, whoſe experience we adore,
Great as your matchleſs merit is your power:
At your approach the baffl'd tyrant Death
Breaks his keen ſhafts, and grinds his claſhing teeth.

THE portrait of Doctor Freind, the hiſtorian of phyſic, and the moſt able in his profeſſion, and the moſt elegant writer of his time, muſt not be omitted. The fine buſts of Harvey, Sydenham, and Mead, the phyſician of our own days, merit attention: and with them I cloſe the diſtinguiſhed liſt.

THE library was furniſhed with books by Sir Theodore Mayerne. And it received a conſiderable addition from the marquis of Dorcheſter.

WARWICK-LANE took its name from its having in it the inn or houſe of Richard Nevil, the great earl of Warwick, whoſe popularity and manner of living merits recital. Stow mentions his coming to London, in the famous convention of 1458, with 600 men, all in red jackets imbrodered, with ragged ſtaves, before and behind, and was lodged in Warwicke-lane: in whoſe houſe there was often ſix oxen eaten at a breakfaſt, and every taverne was full of his meate, for hee that had any [328] acquaintance in that houſe, might have there ſo much of ſodden and roſt meate, as he could pricke and carry upon a long dagger *.’

THE memory of this king-making earl is ſtill preſerved by a fine ſtone ſtatue, placed in the front of a houſe in this lane, within two or three doors of the ſouth ſide of Newgate-ſtreet.

ANTIENT HOUSE [...] D [...]S [...] BRETAGNY.NOT far from hence, near Ave Maria-lane, ſtood a great houſe of ſtone and wood, belonging, in old times, to John duke of Bretagny, and earl of Richmond, cotemporary with Edward II. and III; after him [...] was poſſeſſed by the earls of Pembroke, in the time of Richard II. and Henry VI; and, in the time of queen Elizabeth, [...] [...]S H [...]. by Henry lord Abergavenny. To finiſh the anti-climax, it was finally poſſeſſed by the Company of Stationers, who rebuilt it of wood, and made it their hall. It was deſtroyed by the great fire; and was ſucceeded by the preſent plain building. The preceding owners might boaſt of their nobility; their ſucceſſors of their wealth; for in that ſad calamity, lord Clarendon eſtimated that the loſs of the company did not amount to leſs than two hundred thouſand pounds.

[...] P [...]UL [...] CATHEDRAL.THE cathedral of St. Paul more than fills the ſpace of Ludgatehill. The beſt authority we have for the origin of this church, is from its great reſtorer Sir CHRISTOPHER WREN. His opinion, that there had been a church on this ſpot, built by the Chriſtians in the time of the Romans, was confirmed: when he ſearched for the foundations for his own deſign, he met with thoſe of the original preſbyterium, or ſemicircular chancel of the old church. They conſiſted only of Kentiſh rubble-ſtone, artfully worked, and [329] conſolidated with exceeding hard mortar, in the Roman manner, much excelling the ſuperſtructure *. He explodes the notion of there having been here a temple of Diana, and the diſcovery of the horns of animals uſed in the ſacrifices to that goddeſs, on which the opinion had been founded, no ſuch having been diſcovered in all his ſearches . What was found, is mentioned in the 9th page of this book.

THE firſt church is ſuppoſed to have been deſtroyed in the Diocleſian perſecution, and to have been rebuilt in the reign of Conſtantine. This was again demoliſhed by the pagan Saxons; and reſtored, in 603, by Sebert, a petty prince, ruling in theſe parts under Ethelbert king of Kent, the firſt Chriſtian monarch of the Saxon race; who, at the inſtance of St. Auguſtine, appointed Melitus the firſt biſhop of London. Erkenwald, the ſon of king Offa, fourth in ſucceſſion from Melitus, ornamented his cathedral very highly, and improved the revenues with his own patrimony. He was moſt deſervedly canonized; for the very litter in which he was carried in his laſt illneſs, continued many centuries to cure fevers by the touch; and the very chips, carried to the ſick, reſtored them to health.

WHEN the city, of London was deſtroyed by fire, in 1086, this church was burnt; the biſhop Mauritius began to rebuild it, and laid the foundations, which remained till its ſecond deſtruction, from the ſame cauſe, in the laſt century. Notwithſtanding Mauritius lived twenty years after he had begun this pious work, and [330] biſhop Beauvages enjoyed the ſee twenty more, yet, ſuch was the grandeur of the deſign, that it remained unfiniſhed. The firſt had the ruins of the Palatine tower beſtowed on him, as materials for the building: and Henry I. beſtowed on Beauvages part of the ditch belonging to the Tower, which, with purchaſes made by himſelf, enabled him to incloſe the whole with a wall. The ſame monarch granted beſides, that every ſhip, which brought ſtone for the church, ſhould be exempted from toll; he gave him alſo all the great fiſh taken in his precincts, except the tongues; and laſtly, he ſecured to him and his ſucceſſor, the delicious tythes of all his veniſon in the county of Eſſex.

THE ſteeple was finiſhed in 1221. The noble ſubterraneous church of St. Faith, Eccleſia Sanctae Fidis in cryptis, was begun in 1257. It was ſupported by three rows of maſſy cluſtered pillars, with ribs diverging from them to ſupport the ſolemn roof. This was the pariſh church. This undercroft, as theſe ſort of buildings were called, had in it ſeveral chauntries and monuments. Henry Lacie, earl of Lincoln, who died in 1312, made what was called the New Work, at the eaſt end, in which was the chapel of our Lady, and that of St. Dunſtan.

CHAPTER-HOUSE.THE Chapter-houſe was adjoining to the ſouth tranſept, was circular, and ſupported by four central pillars, and of more elegant gothic than the reſt of the building. This projected into a moſt beautiful cloiſter, two ſtories high. On the walls was painted the Machabre, or dance of death, a common ſubject on the walls of cloiſters or religious places. This was a ſingle piece, a long train of all orders of men, from the pope to the loweſt of human beings; each figure has as his partner, Death; the firſt ſhaking his [331] remembering hour-glaſs *. Our old poet Lydgate, who flouriſhed in the year 1430, tranſlated a poem on the ſubject, from the French verſes which attended a painting of the ſame kind about St. Innocent's cloiſter, at Paris. The original verſes were made by Machaber, a German, in his own language. This ſhews the antiquity of the ſubject, and the origin of the hint from which Holbein compoſed his famous painting at Baſil.

THIS cloiſter, the dance, and innumerable fine monuments (for here were crowded by far the moſt ſuperb) fell victims to the ſacrilege of the protector Somerſet, who demoliſhed the whole, and carried the materials to his palace then erecting in the Strand.

FARTHER to the weſt, adjoining to this ſouth ſide, was the pariſh church of St. Gregory. Over it was one of the towers which ornamented the weſtern front. It was called the Lollards Tower, and was the biſhop's priſon for the heterodox, in which was committed many a midnight murder. That of Richard Hunn, in 1514, was one moſt foul; he was committed there; he was hanged there by the contrivance of the chancellor of the dioceſe, Horſey; he was ſcandalized with ſuicide; his corpſe was ignominiouſly buried. The murder came out; the coroner's inqueſt ſat on the aſhes, and they brought in a verdict of wilful murder againſt Horſey and his accomplices. The biſhop, Fitzjames, defended them. The king interfered, and ordered the murderers to make reſtitution to the children of the deceaſed, to the amount of fifteen hundred pounds. Yet the perpetrators of this villainy eſcaped with a pardon, notwithſtanding the king, in his order, [332] ſpeaks to them as having commited what himſelf ſtyles the cruel murder *.

THE laſt perſon confined here was Peter Burchet of the Temple, who, in 1573, deſperately wounded our famous ſeaman Sir Richard Hawkins, in the open ſtreet, whom he had miſtaken for Sir Chriſtopher Hatton. He was committed to this priſon, and afterwards removed to the Tower; he there barbarouſly murdered one of his keepers; he was tried, convicted, had his right hand ſtruck off, and then hanged. He was found to be a violent enthuſiaſt, who thought it lawful to kill ſuch who oppoſed the truth of the goſpel.

THE ſtyle of the antient cathedral was a moſt beautiful gothic; over the eaſt end was a moſt elegant circular window; alterations were made in the ends of the two tranſepts, ſo that their form is not delivered down to us in the antient plans; from the central tower roſe a lofty and moſt graceful ſpire.

DIMENSIONS OF THE CHURCH.THE dimenſions of this noble temple, as taken in 1309, were theſe: the length ſix hundred and ninety feet; the breadth a hundred and twenty; the height of the roof of the weſt part, from the floor, one hundred and two; of the eaſt part, a hundred and eighty-eight; of the tower, two hundred and ſixty; of the ſpire, which was made of wood covered with lead, two hundred and ſeventy-four. The whole ſpace the church occupied was three acres and a half, one rood and a half, and ſix perches .

WE may be aſtoniſhed at this amazing building, and naturally [333] enquire what fund could ſupply money to ſupport ſo vaſt an expence. But monarchs reſigned their revenues reſulting from the cuſtoms due for the materials, which were brought to the adjacent wharfs; they furniſhed wood from the royal foreſts: prelates gave up much of their revenues; and, what was more than all, by the pious bait of indulgences, and remiſſions of penance, brought in, from the good people of this realm, moſt amazing ſums. Pope Innocent III. in 1252, gave a releaſe of ſixty days penance: the archbiſhop of Cologne gave, a few years before, a relaxation of fifty days: Boniface, archbiſhop of Canterbury, forty days. In brief, there was not a prelate who did not, in this manner, excite his flock to contribute liberally to this great and pious deſign.

THE nave was ſupported by cluſtered pillars and round arches, the ſtyle preſerved by the Normans, after the conquered Saxons. The galleries and windows of the tranſepts were alſo finiſhed with rounded arches. The ſkreen to the choir, and the chapel of our Lady, were gothic. The ſkreen remarkably elegant, ornamented with ſtatues on each ſide of the door, at the expence of Sir Paul Pindar *. We are obliged to the induſtry of Hollar, for preſerving this knowlege of its antient ſtate. His great employer Sir William Dugdale, and that eminent artiſt, were fortunately coeval. The pen of the one, and the burine of the other, were in full vigour, before the ravages of the great fire, on multitudes of the choice antiquities of our capital. To the ſame diſtinguiſhed characters we owe our acquaintance with the tombs: but we are not to expect in this church the number, nor the elegance, of thoſe of Weſtminſter. St. Peter, the porter of heaven, [334] had far the preference to the tutelar ſaint of this cathedral. Few crowned heads crowded here,ETHELRED AND SEBBA. Dagda [...]e, 94. except Ethelred and Sebba, founders of the church; and of Saxon race, none were found within theſe walls.

BUT if they were deprived of that boaſt, they had the honor of receiving the remains of JOHN OF GAUNT.Old John of Gaunt, time-honored Lancaſter! the brother, father, and uncle of kings. He died in 1399; and had a moſt magnificent tomb erected over him, ruined by the fanatical ſoldiery of the laſt century. He, and his firſt wife Blanch, lay recumbent beneath a rich canopy of tabernacle work; his creſt upon his abacoc, or cap of ſtate; his ſhield, and his mighty ſpear, were hung on his monument as ſo many trophies.

SHRINE OF ST. ERKENWALD. Dugdale, 114.IN point of time, as well as ſanctity, the rich gothic ſhrine of St. Erkenwald ſhould have preceded; which reſted on his plain altar tomb. No wonder if, on account of the miracles before mentioned, this ſhrine was a great reſort of pious devotees. It was enriched with gold, ſilver, and pretious ſtones, by the dean and chapter, who, in 1339, employed three goldſmiths to work on it a whole year; the wages of the moſt expert was only eight ſhillings a week, the other two five ſhillings. Of the gifts from devotees, that of Richard de Preſton, of London, grocer, was moſt valuable, being his beſt ſapphire ſtones, there to remain for curing of infirmities in the eyes *.

[335]THE ſhrine of Roger Niger, SHRINE OF ROGER NIGER. Dugdale, 86. biſhop of London in the thirteenth century, was alſo in high repute. A viſit to his ſhrine was frequently enjoined to the indulgences given for the rebuilding of this church.

HENRY LACIE, the great earl of Lincoln, EARL OF LINCOLN. Dugdale, 84. an eminent warrior under Edward I. particularly in the Welſh wars, was buried in that part of the church of his own building, called the New Work. He died at his houſe in town, called Lincoln's-Inn. He is armed in mail; his body covered with a ſhort gown; his legs croſſed, for he had either the merit of viſiting the Holy Land, or (which would entitle him to a right to that attitude) made a vow to perform that expiatory privilege.

SIR John Beauchamp, a younger ſon of Guy earl of Warwick, SIR JOHN BEAUCHAMP. Dugdale, 52. in 1360 was interred here. His figure lay armed, and recumbent. He was one of the founders of the order of the Garter; and diſtinguiſhed himſelf, in the martial reign of Edward III. by numbers of gallant actions by ſea and by land.

THAT accompliſhed knight, the ill-fated Sir Simon de Burley, SIR SIMON DE BURLEY. Dugdale, 104. lay here in complete armour, under a moſt elegant gothic arch. I have mentioned his ſad ſtory at p. 260. ſo will not repeat the ſubject. Here was depoſited, in 1468, (ſevered from her huſband the great John Talbot, who was interred at Whichurch, in Shropſhire) Margaret counteſs of Shrewſbury. A monument was deſigned by the friendſhip of one John Wenlok, at the expence of a hundred pounds; but, from ſome unknown cauſe, the inſcription only was executed.

WILLIAM earl of Pembroke, WILLIAM EARL OF PEMBROKE. Dugdale, 88. an active character in the reigns of Henry VIII. Mary, Edward VI. and Elizabeth, with his firſt [336] counteſs Anne *, ſiſter to Catherine Parre, queen to Henry VIII. who dying at Baynard Caſtle, in 1551, was interred here with vaſt ſolemnity. The portraits of Anne and her lord, in painted glaſs, are ſtill extant in the chapel at Wilton, and ought to be engraved . The earl followed her in 1569. They lay beneath a magnificent canopy divided into two arches; at their head, kneeling, is their daughter Anne lady Talbot; at their feet, in the ſame attitude, their ſons Henry earl of Pembroke, and Sir Edward Herbert, of Pool, i. e. Powis Caſtle, anceſtor of the earls of Powis.

DEAN COLET. Dugdale, 64.AT the expence of the Mercers Company was erected a monument to the memory of John Colet, the learned dean of St. Paul's, the intimate of Eraſmus, and all the eminent ſcholars of the time. This compliment was payed him by the Mercers, becauſe his father had been of their company, and twice lord mayor. He was, in the beginning of life, luxurious, high-ſpirited, and ſubject to exceſs in mirth; and uſed a freedom of ſpeech which he afterwards corrected. He thought too much for the clergy of his days; and often expoſed the corruptions of the church. This ſubjected him to perſecution, but he eſcaped unhurt. At length he determined to retire from the world; which he quitted for a better in 1519. He dedicated his great fortune to the founding of the ſchool of St. Paul's, in honor of Chriſt Jeſu in pueritia, for a hundred and fifty-three ſcholars. A handſome houſe is built for this purpoſe, under the care of the Mercers Company. His monument had his buſt in terra cotta, dreſſed in a gown and ſquare cap; and beneath it, a ſkeleton laid on a mat rolled up under its head.

[337]THAT great and honeſt man, Sir Nicholas Bacon, SIR NICHOLAS BACON. Dugdale, 71. lay here recumbent, and, notwithſtanding he was a gownſman, was ſingularly clad in complete armour: beneath him are his two wives, in gowns and ſhort ruffs.

SIR PHILIP SYDNEY, the delight of the age,SIR PHILIP SYDNEY. Dugdale, 111. the moſt heroic and virtuous character of his time, had no more than a board with a moſt wretched inſcription of eight verſes, to record a ſame which nothing can injure. His remains were brought here on Jan. 16, 1586, with the utmoſt magnificence. There was a general mourning for him, and it was accounted indecent, for many months, for any gentleman to appear at court, or in the city, in gay apparel *. The partiality of an individual may miſtake the qualities of a friend; but the teſtimony of a whole nation puts his merits beyond diſpute.

THE memory of the great Walſingham alſo reſts on his own deſerts. He died ſo poor,WALSINGHAM. Dugdale, 101. that his friends were obliged to ſteal his remains into their grave, for fear leaſt they ſhould be arreſted. By accident was left an old book of legends, which I purchaſed; an antient manuſcript-liſt of ſtateſmen in the reign of Elizabeth, conſigned by the writer to the pains of hell, for their zeal againſt the Catholics. The 1ſt, Leiceſter, all in fire, died 1588: 2d, Walſingham, the Secretarie, alſo in fire and flames. He died, Ap. 6, 1590. No wonder, ſince he could contrive to get the pope's pocket picked, when his holineſs was aſleep, of the keys of a cabinet, by which he made himſelf maſter of an original letter of the firſt importance, which proved the ſaving of our iſland from the machinations of its enemies.

[338] OWEN THE EPIGRAMMATIST. Dugdale.AS a Welſhman, I muſt not paſs over the quibbling epitaph of the quibbling epigrammatiſt, my countryman John Owen, born at Llanarmon, in Caernarvonſhire, educated at Wincheſter, and elected fellow of New College *. He lived under the patronage of archbiſhop Williams, and died in 1623.

Parva tibi ſtatua, quia parva ſtatura, ſupellex
Parva, volat parvus per ora liber.
Sed non parvus honos, non parva eſt gloria, quippe
Ingenio haud quicquam eſt majus in orbe tuo.
Parva domus texit, templum ſed grande, poetae
Tum verè vitam, quum moriuntur, agunt.

DOCTOR DONNE. Dugdale, 62.I WILL conclude with the melancholy corſe of Doctor Donne, the wit of his time, ſtanding in a nich, and wrapped in a ſhroud gathered about his head; with his feet reſting on an urn. Not long before his death, he dreſſed himſelf in that funebrial habit, placed his feet on an urn fixed on a board exactly of his own height, and, ſhutting his eyes, like a departed perſon, was drawn in that attitude by a ſkilful painter. This gloomy piece he kept in his room till the day of his death, on March 31, 1631; after which it ſerved as a pattern for his tomb.

THE HIGH ALTAR.IT will be endleſs to enumerate the altars of this vaſt temple, numerous as thoſe of the Pantheon. I content myſelf with the mention of the High Altar, which dazzled with gems and gold, the gifts of its numerous votaries. John, king of France, when priſoner in England, firſt paying his reſpects to St. Erkenwald's ſhrine, offered four baſons of gold: and the gifts at the [339] obſequies of princes, foreign and Britiſh, were of immenſe value. On the day of the converſion of the tutelar ſaint, the charities were prodigious, firſt to the ſouls, when an indulgence of forty days pardon was given, verè poenitentibus, contritis et confeſſis; and, by order of Henry III. fifteen hundred tapers were placed in the church, and fifteen thouſand poor people fed in the churchyard.

BUT the moſt ſingular offering was that of a fat doe in winter,SINGULAR OFFERING. and a buck in ſummer, made at the high altar, on the day of the commemoration of the ſaint, by Sir William de Baude and his family, and then to be diſtributed among the canons reſident. This was in lieu of twenty-two acres of land in Eſſex, which did belong to the canons of this church. Till queen Elizabeth's days, the doe or buck was received ſolemnly, at the ſteps of the high altar, by the dean and chapter, attired in their ſacred veſtments, and crowned with garlands of roſes. ‘They ſent the body of the bucke to baking, and had the head, fixed on a pole, borne before the croſſe in the proceſſion, untill they iſſued out of the weſt doore, where the keeper that brought it blowed the deathe of the bucke, and then the horners, that were about the citie, preſently anſwered him in like manner; for which paines they had each man, of the deane and chapter, four pence in money, and their dinner; and the keeper that brought it was allowed, during his abode there, for his ſervice, meate, drinke, and lodging, and five ſhillings in money at his going away, together with a loafe of breade having the picture of St. Paul upon it *.’

[340] MYSTERIES.THE boys of St. Paul's were famous for acting of the myſteries or holy plays, and even regular dramas. They often had the honor of performing before our monarchs. Their preparations were expenſive; ſo that they petitioned Richard II. to prohibit ſome ignorant and unexperienced perſons from acting the Hiſtory of the Old Teſtament, to the great prejudice of the clergy of the church.BOY BISHOP. They had their barne-biſhop, or child-biſhop, who aſſumed the ſtate and attire of a prelate. Ludicrous as this holy counterfeit was, dean Colet expreſsly orders that his ſcholars ſhall, ‘every Childermas daye, come to Paulis churche, and heare the chylde byſhop's ſermon, and after be at the hygh maſſe, and each of them offer a penny to the chylde byſhop; and with them, the maiſters and ſurveyors of the ſcole *.’ This character was very common in many of the churches in France, under the name of L'evéque des foux, or Archevêque des foux. They were dreſſed in the pontifical habits, and ſung ſuch indecent ſongs, danced and committed ſuch horrible profanations, even before the altar, that at length they were ſuppreſſed by an arret of parlement , at the requeſt of the dean and chapter of Rheims.

THE holineſs of this place did not prevent thieves and profligates of all denominations lurking within the precincts, and committing, under favor of the night, murders and every ſort of crime.CHURCH, AND BUILDINGS BELONGING TO IT, INCLOSED WITH A WALL. Edward I. gave the dean and canons permiſſion to incloſe the whole within a wall; and to have gates to be ſhut every night, to exclude all diſorderly people. Within theſe walls, on the north-weſt ſide, was the biſhop's palace. Froiſſart tells us, [341] that after the great tournament in Smithfield, BISHOP'S PALACE. king Edward III. and his queen lodged here (I think on occaſion of their nuptials); ‘There was goodly daunſyng in the quenes lodging, in preſence of the kyng and his uncles, and other barons of England, and ladyes, and damoyſelles, tyll it was daye, whyche was tyme for every perſon to drawe to theyr lodgynges, except the kynge and quene, who laye there in the byſhoppe's palayce, for there theye laye al the feaſtes and juſtes durynge *.’

IT was a building of vaſt extent, and frequently lodged our kings on different occaſions. The poor prince Edward V. was brought here, as he ſuppoſed to take poſſeſſion of the crown; and, in 1501, the unhappy Catherine of Arragon was conducted to this palace to meet her young lover, prince Arthur; and on Nov. 14, was publicly married to him at St. Paul's; they returned to the palace, where they were entertained with a ſplendid nuptial feaſt, and reſided here a few days, till they were viſited by the king and queen, who took the royal pair with them by water from Baynard Caſtle to Weſtminſter .

IN 1526, Anne de Montmorenci, and others, ambaſſadors from Francis I. were magnificently lodged and entertained at this palace. They were ſent over to ratify the important treaties between the two monarchs, and to compliment Henry with the order of St. Michael . And in 1546, the French ambaſſador Claude Annebau, admiral of France, was ſplendidly lodged in the ſame [342] place *. He was a favorite of Francis I. and ſent over to make peace between Charles V. his maſter, and Henry.

IN the reign of Edward VI. the queen dowager of Scotland was here entertained. The dean's houſe, and the houſes of the prebendaries and reſidentiaries, were on the oppoſite ſide; and, in thoſe days of plain living, kept great houſholds and liberal hoſpitality .

PAUL'S CROSS.BEFORE this cathedral was the famous Paul's Croſs, a pulpit formed of wood, mounted upon ſteps of ſtone, and covered with lead, in which the moſt eminent divines were appointed to preach every Sunday in the forenoon. To this place, the court, the mayor, and aldermen, and principal citizens, uſed to reſort. The greateſt part of the congregation ſat in the open air; the king and his train had covered galleries; and the better ſort of people, if I may judge from the old prints, were alſo protected from the injury of the weather; but the far greater part ſtood expoſed in the open air: for which reaſon the preacher went, in very bad weather,THE SHROWDS. to a place called the Shrowds; a covered ſpace on the ſide of the church, to protect the congregation in inclement ſeaſons. Conſiderable contributions were raiſed among the nobility and citizens, to ſupport ſuch preachers as were (as was often the caſe) called to town from either of the univerſities. In particular, the lord mayor and aldermen ordered that every preacher, who came from a diſtance, ſhould be freely accommodated, during five days, with ſweet and convenient lodgings, fire, candle, and all neceſſaries. And notice was given by the biſhop [343] of London, to the preacher appointed by him, of the place he was to repair to.

THE origin of the cuſtom of preaching at croſſes, was probably accidental. The ſanctity of this ſpecies of pillar often cauſed a great reſort of people, to pay their devotion to the great object of their erection. A preacher, ſeeing a large concourſe, might be ſeized by a ſudden impulſe, aſcend the ſteps, and deliver out his pious advice from a ſtation ſo fit to inſpire attention, and ſo conveniently formed for the purpoſe. The example might be followed, till the practice became eſtabliſhed by cuſtom.

IT certainly at firſt was a common croſs, and coeval with the church. When it was firſt covered, and converted into a pulpit-croſs, we are not informed. We are given to underſtand that it was overthrown by an earthquake in 1382, and that William Courtney, then archbiſhop of Canterbury, collected great ſums for the rebuilding; which, ſays dean Nowel, in a ſermon he preached at this croſs, he applied to his own uſe. Courtney was a moſt munificent prelate, and not likely to abuſe the charity of his flock; yet it was not rebuilt till the time of Thomas Kemp, elected biſhop of London in 1449, who finiſhed it in the form, ſays Godwin, in which we ſee it at preſent *; and ſo it ſtood till it was demoliſhed, in 1643, by order of parlement, executed by the willing hands of Iſaac Pennington, the fanatical lord mayor of that year, who died in the Tower, a convicted regicide.

WE hear of this being in uſe as early as the year 1259. It was uſed not only for the inſtruction of mankind, by the doctrine of the preacher, but for every purpoſe political or eccleſiaſtical: for [344] giving force to oaths, for promulging of laws, or rather the royal pleaſure, for the emiſſion of papal bulls, for anathematizing ſinners, for benedictions, for expoſing of penitents under cenſure of the church, for recantations, for the private ends of the ambitious, and for the defaming of thoſe who had incurred the diſpleaſure of crowned heads.

IN 1259, Henry III. commanded the lord mayor to ſwear, before the aldermen, every perſon of twelve years and upwards, to be true to him and his heirs.

IN 1262, the ſame monarch cauſed the bull of Urban IV. to be here made public, as an abſolution of him and his adherents, who had ſworn to obſerve the Oxford proviſions, made in the violent meeting at that city in 1258, called the mad parliament.

HERE, in 1299, Ralph de Baldoc, dean of St. Paul's, curſed all thoſe who had ſearched, in the church of St. Martin in the Fields, for a hoard of gold, &c.

THE PENANCE OF JANE SHORE.BEFORE this croſs, in 1483, was brought, diveſted of all her ſplendor, Jane Shore, the charitable, the merry concubine of Edward IV. and, after his death, of his favorite, the unfortunate Lord Haſtings. After the loſs of her protectors, ſhe fell a victim to the malice of crook-backed Richard. He was diſappointed (by her excellent defence) of convicting her of witchcraft, and confederating with her lover to deſtroy him. He then attacked her on the weak ſide of frailty. This was undeniable. He conſigned her to the ſeverity of the church: ſhe was carried to the biſhop's palace, cloathed in a white ſheet, with a taper in her hand, and from thence conducted to the cathedral, and the croſs, before which ſhe made a confeſſion of her only fault. Every other virtue bloomed in this ill-fated fair with the fulleſt vigour. She [345] could not reſiſt the ſolicitations of a youthful monarch, the handſomeſt man of his time. On his death ſhe was reduced to neceſſity, ſcorned by the world, and caſt off by her huſband, with whom ſhe was paired in her childiſh years, and forced to fling herſelf into the arms of Haſtings. "In her penance ſhe went," ſays Holinſhed, ‘in countenance and paſe demure, ſo womanlie, that, albeit ſhe were out of all araie, ſave hir kirtle onlie, yet went ſhe ſo faire and lovelie, namelie, while the woondering of the people caſt a comelie rud in hir cheeks, (of whiche ſhe before had moſt miſſe) that hir great ſhame wan hir much praiſe among thoſe that were more amorous of hir bodie than curious of hir ſoule. And manie good folkes that hated hir living, (and glad were to ſee ſin corrected) yet pitied they more hir penance, than rejoiſed therin, when they conſidered that the Protector procured it more of a corrupt intent, than anie virtuous affection *.’

ROWE has flung this part of her ſad ſtory into the following poetical dreſs; but it is far from depreciating the moving ſimplicity of the old hiſtorian.

Submiſſive, ſad, and lowly was her look;
A burning taper in her hand ſhe bore,
And on her ſhoulders careleſsly confus'd,
With looſe neglect, her lovely treſſes hung;
Upon her cheek a faintiſh fluſh was ſpread;
Feeble ſhe ſeem'd, and ſorely ſmit with pain,
While, barefoot as ſhe trod the flinty pavement.
Her footſteps all along were mark'd with blood.
Yet ſilent ſtill ſhe paſs'd, and unrepining;
[346]Her ſtreaming eyes bent ever on the earth,
Except when, in ſome bitter pang of ſorrow,
To Heav'n ſhe ſeem'd in fervent zeal to raiſe,
And beg that mercy man deny'd her here.

THE poet has adopted the fable of her being denied all ſuſtenance, and of her periſhing with hunger; but that was not fact. She lived to a great age, but in great diſtreſs and miſerable poverty; deſerted even by thoſe to whom ſhe had, during proſperity, done the moſt eſſential ſervices. She dragged a wretched life, even to the time of Sir Thomas More, who introduces her ſtory into his life of Edward V. The beauty of her perſon is ſpoken of in high terms: ‘Proper ſhe was, and faire: nothing in hir bodie that you would have changed; but you would have wiſhed hir ſomewhat higher. Thus ſaie they that knew hir in hir youth.—Now is ſhe old, leane, withered, and dried up; nothing left but rivelled ſkin and hard bone; and yet, being even ſuch, who ſo well adviſe her viſage, might geſſe and deviſe, which parts how filled would make it a faire face *.’

THE late ingenious the Reverend Mr. Michael Tyſon, made me a preſent of an etching of this unfortunate fair, done by himſelf from the original in the provoſt's lodgings, in King's college, Cambridge. Her hair is curled in ſhort curls high above her neck, and mixed with chains of jewels ſet in a lozenge form: her neck and body, as far beneath her arms, are naked; the firſt has two ſtrings of pearls hanging looſe round it: over her ſhoulders is a rich chain of jewels ſet in circles, and pendant from the [347] middle, which hangs down her breaſt, is a rich lozenge of jewels, and to each link is affixed one or more pearls. In her countenance is no appearance of charms; ſhe muſt have attracted the hearts of her lovers by her intellectual beauties.

UNDER her cruel perſecutor,PROSTITUTE PREACH [...]S. this pulpit-croſs became the ſeat of proſtituted eloquence. The uſurper made uſe of Doctor Shaw, brother to his creature the lord mayor, and friar Pinke, an Auguſtine, (both, ſays Stow, doctors of divinity, both great preachers, both of more learning than virtue) as his engines. They addreſſed the people, and inferred the baſtardy of his brother's children, and enlarged on the great qualities of their ambitious employers. But Pinke loſt his voice in the middle of his ſermon, and was forced to deſcend: and Shaw was afterwards ſtruck with ſuch remorſe, finding himſelf deſpiſed by all the world, that he ſoon after died of a broken heart *.

ROYAL contracts of marriage were notified to the people from this place. Thus that between Margaret, ROYAL CONTRACTS OF MARRIAGE. daughter of Henry VII. and James the IVth of Scotland, was here declared in 1501; Te Deum was ſung, twelve bonfires ſet a blazing, and twelve hogſheads of Gaſcoigne wine given to the populace .

BUT the moſt famous preachments ever made here,PAPAL BULLS PREACHED DOWN. were thoſe done by order of Henry VIII; who compelled the biſhop of London to ſend up to Paules Croſs, from Sonday to Sonday, preachers to preach down the pope's authority; to ſhew to the people that he was no more than the ſimple biſhop of Rome, and that his uſurpations were only the effect of the negligence of the princes [348] of this realm *. And thus his holineſs's bulls were fairly baited out of the kingdom by his own dogs.

PENITENCE OF HENRY VIII.FROM this pulpit was proclamed to the people, by Henry Holbetch, biſhop of Rocheſter, the death-bed remorſe of the ſame tyrant; who, finding the ſtroke inevitable, he ordered the church of the Grey Friars, which he had converted into a ſtore-houſe, to be cleared of the goods, and opened for divine ſervice, and preſented by patent to the city, for the relieving of the poor .

RECANTATIONS.MANY are the examples of perſons bearing the faggot, and of making public recantation of their faith, of both religions, at this place. The Reformers bore that badge as a mark of their eſcape: the Catholics were excuſed from the burning, therefore were excuſed from the burden. The laſt who appeared, was a ſeminary prieſt, who, in 1593, made his recantation. In 1537, Sir Thomas Newman, prieſt, bore the faggot here on a ſingular occaſion, for ſinging maſs with good ale. To this place Henry Grey, duke of Suffolk, ſent his chaplain, Harding, to diſſuade the people from revolting from their allegiance to queen Mary : yet, actuated by weakneſs and ambition, concurred in ſetting up his unhappy daughter, Jane Grey, in oppoſition to his rightful ſovereign.

WE are told in Strype's Memorials, III. 21, that queen Mary made uſe of the ſame arts in the ſame place, and appointed ſeveral of her beſt divines to preach the old religion, and her deſign of reſtoring the antient worſhip: but ſo averſe were the people, [349] that the attempt was attended with great tumults. Theſe ſhe allayed by the temporary expedients of fire and faggot.

THE reign of queen Elizabeth was wiſely uſhered in by the appointment of good and able men to preach from this Croſs the doctrine of the Reformation, and rejection of the Papal power *;THE REFORMATION PREACHED FROM HENCE. in which politics were naturally intermixed. This began April the 9th, 1559, with doctor Bill, the queen's almoner; he was followed by Grindal, Horn, Jewel, Sandys, and many others, who ſoon after enjoyed the higheſt dignities in our church.

THE ſame heroine, giving way to a moſt ungenerous paſſion,ESSEX CALUMNIATED. cauſed from this pulpit the memory of her once-beloved Eſſex to be blackened; to ſuffer ‘the indignity of a ſermon at Paul's Croſs, ſet out in command. Some ſparks of indignation remaining in the queen, that were unquenched even by his blood .’

IT was more worthily employed,DEFEAT OF THE ARMADA ANNOUNCED. when her majeſty cauſed from thence a ſermon of thankſgiving to Providence, in 1588, for the ſignal deliverance her ſubjects received from the invincible armada of Philip II.

AFTER the battle of St. Quintin, her predeceſſor, queen Mary, BATTLE OF ST. QUINTIN. cauſed doctor Harpsfield to preach a ſermon, and from this Croſs to give the people information of the victory gained by the general of her huſband, Philip of Spain, over the French, and of the ſucceeding capture of St. Quintin; before which that monarch, the only time in his life, appeared clad in armour.

IN 1596,LEVIES INCITED. while the lord mayor and aldermen were attending a ſermon at this place, they received an order from the queen, to [350] levy a thouſand able-bodied men. They quitted their devotions, and performed their commiſſion before eight at night, and had them ready armed for their march before morning. The ſervice they were deſigned for was to aſſiſt the French in raiſing the ſiege of Calais, then beſieged by the Spaniards; but the place being taken by the time they reached Dover, they returned to the city, after a week's abſence. From the uſual policy of Elizabeth, it is poſſible the ſermon and order were both preconcerted; the moment of devotion being the apteſt to inſpire zeal, and promote an enthuſiaſtic ardor in the people to fly to a ſtandard raiſed againſt a nation ſo deteſted, and ſo inimical to our religion and liberties, as the Spaniards.

JAMES I. HEARS A SERMON AT THE CROSS.THE laſt ſermon which was preached at this place, was before James I. who came in great ſtate on horſeback from Whitehall, on Midlent Sunday, 1620: he was received at Temple Bar by the lord mayor and aldermen, who preſented him with a purſe of gold. At St. Paul's he was received by the clergy in their richeſt veſtments. Divine ſervice was performed, attended with organs, cornets, and ſagbots; after which his majeſty went to a prepared place, and heard a ſermon at the Croſs, preached by John King, biſhop of London. The object of the ſermon was the repairing of the cathedral. The king and the principal perſons retired from the Croſs to the biſhop's palace, to conſult on the matter, and, after a magnificent banquet, the court returned to Whitehall *.

SPIRE OF THE CHURCH BURNT.I WILL not mention the different misfortunes this cathedral experienced, except the laſt, previous to its final deſtruction by the great fire. In 1561, the noble ſpire was totally burnt by lightning, [351] and never reſtored. This circumſtance ſhews the date of 1560, to Aggas's famous ſurvey of London, to have been erroneous: he having given the church without the ſpire; which he never could have omitted, had it exiſted at that time.

IN conſequence of the reſolutions taken in 1620, by James I. to repair the cathedral, the celebrated Inigo Jones was appointed to the work. But it was not attempted till the year 1633, when Laud laid the firſt ſtone, and Inigo the fourth. That great architect begun with a moſt notorious impropriety, giving to the weſt end a portico of the Corinthian order (beautiful indeed) to this antient gothic pile *; and to the ends of the two tranſepts gothic fronts in a moſt horrible ſtyle. The great fire made way for the reſtoring of this magnificent pile by Sir CHRISTOPHER WREN, an architect worthy of ſo great a deſign. I will not attempt to deſcribe ſo well-known a building; the deſcription is well done in ſeveral books eaſy to be had . Sir Chriſtopher made a model in wood of his firſt conception for rebuilding this church, in the Roman ſtyle. He had in it an eye to the loſs of the Pulpit-croſs, and had ſupplied its place by a magnificent auditory within, for the reception of a large congregation. This was approved by men of excellent judgment, but laid aſide under the notion it had not ſufficiently a temple-like form. A ſecond was made, ſelected out of various ſketches he had drawn; on this deſign Sir Chriſtopher ſet a high value: but this alſo was [352] rejected *. The third, which produced the preſent noble pile, was approved and executed. A ſingular accident happened at the beginning: while the great architect was ſetting out the dimenſions of the dome, he ordered a common laborer to bring him a flat ſtone, to be laid as a direction to the maſons; he brought a fragment of a graveſtone, on which was the word RESURGAM. This was not loſt on Sir Chriſtopher; he caught the idea of the Phoenix, which he placed on the ſouth Portico, with that word cut beneath.

THE firſt ſtone was laid on June 21, 1675; and the building was completed by him in 1710 ; but the whole decorations were not finiſhed till 1723 . It was a moſt ſingular circumſtance, that, notwithſtanding it was thirty-five years in building, it was begun and finiſhed by one architect, and under one prelate, Henry Compton, biſhop of London. The church of St. Peter's was a hundred and thirty-five years in building, in the reigns of nineteen popes, and went through the hands of twelve architects. It is not, as often miſtaken, built after the model of that famous temple: it is the entire conception of our great countryman; and has been preferred in ſome reſpects, by a judicious writer, to even the Roman Baſilica. Its dimenſions are leſs. The comparative view is given in the Parentalia, and copied in London and its Environs.—I will only mention the great outlines:—the height of St. Peter's, to the top of the croſs, is four hundred and thirty-ſeven feet and a half; that of St. Paul's, three hundred and forty feet: ſo that, from its ſituation, it is lofty enough to be ſeen [353] from the ſea. The length of the firſt, is ſeven hundred and twenty-nine feet; of the latter, five hundred. The greateſt breadth of St. Peter's is three hundred and ſixty-four; of St. Paul's, one hundred and eighty.

IN the reigns of James I. and Charles I. the body of this cathedral was the common reſort of the politicians, the news-mongers, and idle in general. It was called Paul's walk, and the frequenters known by the name of Paul's walkers. It is mentioned in the old plays, and other books of the times. The following droll deſcription may poſſibly give ſome amuſement to the reader:

‘IT is the land's epitome, or you may call it the leſſer ile of Great Brittaine. It is more than this, the whole world's map, which you may here diſcerne in it's perfect'ſt motion, juſtling and turning. It is a heap of ſtones and men, with a vaſt confuſion of languages; and, were the ſteeple not ſanctified, nothing liker Babel. The noyſe in it is like that of bees, a ſtrange humming or buzze, mixt of walking, tongues, and feet. It is a kind of ſtill roare, or loud whiſper. It is the great exchange of all diſcourſe, and no buſines whatſoever but is here ſtirring and a foot. It is the ſynod of all pates politicke, joynted and laid together in the moſt ſerious poſture; and they are not halfe ſo buſie at the parliament. It is the anticke of tailes to tailes, and backes to backes; and for vizards, you need goe no further than faces. It is the market of young lecturers, whom you may cheapen here at all rates and ſizes. It is the generall mint of all famous lies, which are here, like the legends popery firſt coyn'd and ſtampt in [354] the church. All inventions are emptyed here, and not few pockets. The beſt ſigne of a temple in it is, that it is the theeves ſanctuary, which robbe more ſafely in the croud then a wilderneſſe, whilſt every ſearcher is a buſh to hide them. It is the other expence of the day, after playes, taverne, and a baudy houſe, and men have ſtill ſome oathes left to ſweare here. It is the eare's brothell, and ſatisfies their luſt and ytch. The viſitants are all men, without exceptions; but the principall inhabitants and poſſeſſors are ſtale knights, and captaines out of ſervice; men of long rapiers and breeches, which after all turne merchants here, and trafficke for newes. Some make it a preface to their dinner, and travell for a ſtomacke: but thriftier men make it their ordinarie, and boord here verie cheape. Of all ſuch places it is leaſt haunted with hobgoblins, for if a ghoſt would walke, move he could not *.’

STATUE OF QUEEN ANNE.THE ſtatue of queen Anne, of white marble, with the figures of Britain, France, Ireland, and America at the baſe, is placed before the weſtern front. This roſe from the chizzel of Francis Bird, as did the converſion of St. Paul in the pediment, and the has-reliefs under the portico . Let the fine irony of Sir Samuel Garth, whoſe ſpirit lay dormant till it roſe in later days wrapped in the ſheets of the eloquent Junius, conclude all I have ſaid of this majeſtic pile.

Near the vaſt bulk of that ſtupendous frame
Known by the Gentiles great Apoſtle's name,
[355]With grace divine, great Anna's ſeen to riſe,
An awful form that glads a nation's eyes:
Beneath her feet four mighty realms appear,
And with due reverence pay their homage there.
Britain and Ireland ſeem to own her grace,
And ev'n wild India wears a ſmiling face.
But France alone with downcaſt eyes is ſeen,
The ſad attendant of ſo good a queen:
Ungrateful country! to forget ſo ſoon
All that great Anna for thy ſake has done:
When ſworn the kind defender of thy cauſe,
Spite of her dear religion, ſpite of laws;
For thee ſhe ſheath'd the terrors of her ſword,
For thee ſhe broke her gen'ral—and her word:
For thee her mind in doubtful terms ſhe told.
And learn'd to ſpeak like oracles of old.
For thee, for thee alone, what cou'd ſhe more?
She loſt the honour ſhe had gain'd before;
Loſt all the trophies, which her arms had won,
(Such Caeſar never knew, nor Philip's ſon)
Reſign'd the glories of a ten years reign,
And ſuch as none but Marlborough's arm cou'd gain.
For thee in annals ſhe's content to ſhine,
Like other monarchs of the Stuart line.

IN digging the foundation for the rebuilding of this cathedral, it was diſcovered, beneath the graves mentioned at p. 9, that the foundation of the old church reſted on a layer of hard and cloſe pot earth. Curioſity led Sir Chriſtopher Wren to ſearch farther. He found that on the north ſide it was ſix feet thick, that it grew thinner towards the ſouth, and on the decline of the hill was [356] ſcarcely four. On advancing farther, he met with nothing but looſe ſand; at length he came to water and ſand mixed with periwinkles, and other ſea-ſhells; and, by boring, came at laſt to the beach, and under that the natural hard clay: which evinced that the ſea had once occupied the ſpace on which St. Paul's now ſtands. This ſand had been one of thoſe ſand-hills frequent on many coaſts, not only on thoſe of Holland and Flanders, but on our own. It was the opinion of our great architect, that all the ſpace between Camberwell hill and the hills of Eſſex had been a vaſt bay, at low-water a ſandy plain. All which appears in ſome diſtant age to have been embanked, poſſibly by the Romans *, who were greatly employed in that uſeful work, paludibus emuniendis.

TO the ſouth of this cathedral are the college of Civilians, or Doctors commons, the court of arches, the court of delegates, and ſeveral others, the great ſatellites of the church. The court of arches took its name, curia de arcubus, from having been once kept in Bow church, Cheapſide. With the downfall of the church of Rome their powers decreaſed, and continued decreaſing as the rights of mankind became better underſtood.

HERALDS COLLEGE.ON Bennet-hill, adjacent to theſe courts, is the College of Heralds, a foundation of great antiquity, in which the records are kept of all the old blood of the kingdom. In the warlike times of our Henries and our Edwards, the heralds were in full employ, and often ſent upon moſt dangerous ſervices; to hurl defiance into [357] the teeth of irritated enemies, or to bring to their duty profligate rebels. Sometimes it has coſt them their noſe and ears, and ſometimes their heads. At preſent they reſt ſafe from all harms: are often of great uſe in proving conſanguinity, and helping people to ſupply legal clames to eſtates; and often are of infinite uſe to our numerous children of fortune, by furniſhing them with a quantum ſufficit of good blood, and enabling them to ſtrut in the motley proceſſion of gentility.

THE houſe they occupy was built on the ſite of Derby-houſe, a palace of the great family of the Stanlies. It was built by the firſt earl, father-in-law to Henry VII. who in it lived and died, as did his ſon George, the intended victim to the rage of Richard III. before the battle of Boſworth. Edward earl of Derby, that prodigy of charity and hoſpitality *, exchanged it with Edward VI. for certain lands adjoining to his park at Knowſley, in Lancaſhire. Queen Mary preſented it to Dethick, Garter king of arms, and his brother heralds, to live in, and diſcharge the buſineſs of their office . This houſe was deſtroyed in the great fire, but ſoon rebuilt. It is inhabited by ſeveral of the heralds. J.C. Brooke, Eſq Somerſet, muſt permit me to acknowlege his frequent ſervices and liberal communications.

IN this neighbourhood, to the weſt, ſtood the royal wardrobe, kept in a houſe built by Sir John Beauchamp, who made it his reſidence. It was ſold to Edward III. and became the lodging Richard III. in his ſecond year.

[358] KNIGHT-RIDER STREET.CROSS Bennet-hill paſſes Knight-rider Street, ſo named from the gallant train of knights who were wont to paſs this way, in the days of chivalry, from the Tower Royal to the gay tournaments at Smithfield. From hence I paſs to the King's Exchange, or the Old Change, a ſtreet parallel to the eaſt ſide of St. Paul's church yard, which croſs the Roman road, or Watling-ſtreet, and terminates cloſe to the weſt end of Cheapſide. This was the ſeat of the King's Exchanger, who delivered out to the other exchangers, through the kingdom, their coining irons, and received them again when worn out, with an account of the ſums coined: neither was any body to make change of plate, or other maſs of ſilver, unleſs at this place *.

IN this ſtreet ſtood the College of Phyſicians, till it was deſtroyed by the great fire: it was founded by the ornament of his age, Doctor Linacre, the greateſt and moſt general ſcholar of the time. He lived in this ſtreet, and left his houſe to the public, for the uſe of his inſtitution. He was appointed by Henry VII. phyſician to prince Arthur, and alſo his tutor. He was beſides phyſician to that monarch, and Henry VIII; and died in 1524, an honor to our country. He had travelled much, and was particularly reſpected by the reigning duke of Tuſcany, (the politeſt ſcholar of his days), and other foreigners; and met with at home a return ſuitable to his merit.

CHEAPSIDE.CHEAPSIDE received its name from Chepe, a market, as being originally the great ſtreet of ſplendid ſhops. In the year 1246 it was an open field, called Crown-field, from an hoſterie, or inn, with the ſign of a crown, at the eaſt end. "At the ſame period," [559] adds Stow, at p. 187 of his Chronicle, ‘nor two hundred years after, was any ſtreet in London paved, except Thames-ſtreet, and from Ludgate-hill to Charing-croſs. The goldſmiths ſhops were particularly ſuperb, "conſiſting," ſays Stow, ‘of a moſt beautiful frame of faire houſes and ſhops than be within the walls of London or elſewhere in England, commonly called Goldſmiths-Row; builded by Thomas Wood, goldſmith, and one of the ſheriffes of London in 1491. It contained tenne faire dwelling houſes, and fourteen ſhops, all in one frame, uniformely builded foure ſtories high, beautified toward the ſtreet with the goldſmithes arms, and likeneſs of woodmen, in memorie of his name, riding on monſtrous beaſts, all richly painted and gilt *.’

IN Foſter Lane, which opens into the weſt end of this ſtreet,GOLDSMITHS HALL. ſtands the hall of this opulent company. In the court-room is a fine portrait of Sir Hugh Myddelton, with a ſhell by him, out of which he may be ſuppoſed to have poured the uſeful element to the thirſting metropolis. The words Fontes Fodinae are painted on the picture, to imply his double attentions. The wealth he got in the mines was totally exhauſted in the execution of his project, of which the metropolis, to this moment, receives increaſing benefit. Sir Hugh left a ſhare in the New River to this company, for the benefit of the decayed members; which, even in 1704, amounted to £. 134.

HERE is a good portrait of Sir Martin Bowes, lord mayor in 1545, with his chain and robes of office. The date of his picture is 1566.

[360]ST. Dunſtan appears here in canvas, in a rich robe, and with his croſier. The unfortunate devil is not forgotten, roaring between the pincers of the ſaint; with the heavenly hoſt above, applauding the deed. It ſeems by this that St. Dunſtan amuſed himſelf in works of gold as well as iron: ſo that it is no wonder to ſee the evil ſpirit in a place where the irritamenta malorum ſo much abound.

QUEEN Elizabeth preſented this company with a ſilver cup, out of which annual libations are made to her memory. She was particularly kind to the citizens, and borrowed money of them on all occaſions. The goldſmiths muſt of courſe enjoy a diſtinguiſhed place in her eſteem.

THIS company appeared as a fraternity as early as 1180, being then amerced for being adulterine, or for ſetting up without the king's licence. In the reign of Edward III. they obtained a patent, and were incorporated for the ſum of ten marks. Richard II. confirmed the ſame, in conſideration of the ſum of twenty marks. They increaſed in wealth, and have left evident marks of charity, by having above a thouſand pounds a year to diſpoſe of for benevolent purpoſes. They became in time the bankers of the capital. The Lombards were the firſt and the greateſt, and moſt of the money contracts in old times paſſed through their hands. Many of our monarchs were obliged to them for money. They did not ſeem to like truſting Henry IV. on his bond, ſo took the cuſtoms in pawn for their loan.

THE buſineſs of goldſmiths was confined to the buying and ſelling of plate, and foreign coins of gold and ſilver, melting them, and coining others at the mint. The banking was accidental, and foreign to their inſtitution.

[361]REGULAR banking by private people reſulted, in 1643, from the calamity of the time, when the ſeditious ſpirit was incited by the arts of the parlementary leaders. The merchants and tradeſmen, who before truſted their caſh to their ſervants and apprentices, found that no longer ſafe; neither did they dare to leave it in the mint at the Tower, by reaſon of the diſtreſſes of majeſty itſelf, which before was a place of public depoſit. In the year 1645, they began to place it in the hands of goldſmiths, when they firſt began publicly to exerciſe both profeſſions. Even in my days were ſeveral very eminent bankers, who kept the goldſmiths ſhop: but they were more frequently ſeparated. The firſt regular banker was Mr. Francis Child, goldſmith, who began buſineſs ſoon after the Reſtoration. He was the father of the profeſſion, a perſon of large fortune and moſt reſpectable character. He married, between the years 1665 and 1675, Martha, only daughter of Robert Blanchard, citizen and goldſmith, by whom he had twelve children. Mr. Child was afterwards knighted. He lived in Fleet-ſtreet, where the ſhop ſtill continues *, in a ſtate of the higheſt reſpectability. Mr. Granger mentions Mr. Child as ſucceſſor to the ſhop of alderman Backwel, a banker in the time of Charles II. noted for his integrity, abilities, and induſtry; who was ruined by the ſhutting up of the exchequer in 1672. His books were placed in the hands of Mr. Child, and ſtill remain in the family.

THE next antient ſhop was that poſſeſſed at preſent by Meſſrs. Snow and Denne, a few doors to the weſt of Mr. Child's; who [362] were goldſmiths of conſequence in the latter part of the ſame reign. To the weſt of Temple Bar, the only one was that of Meſſrs Middleton and Campbel, goldſmiths, who flouriſhed in 1692, and is now continued, with great credit, by Mr. Coutts. From thence to the extremity of the weſtern end of the town, there was none till the year 1756, when the reſpectable name of Backwel * roſe again, conjoined to thoſe of Darel, Hart, and Croft, who with great reputation opened their ſhop in Pall Mall.

ST. MARTIN'S LE GRAND.FOSTER LANE bounds on the eaſt that remarkable place, St. Martin's Le Grand: imperium in imperio: ſurrounded by the city, yet ſubject, near three centuries, to the governing powers of Weſtminſter Abby. A large and fair college was founded, A. D. 700, by Wythred king of Kent; and rebuilt and chiefly endowed by two noble Saxon brothers, Ingelric and Edward, about the year 1056. William the Conqueror confirmed it in 1068, and even made it independent of every other eccleſiaſtical juriſdiction, from the regal and even the papal . It was governed by a dean, and had a number of ſecular canons. Succeeding monarchs confirmed all its privileges. It had Sak, Sok, Tol, and all the long liſt of Saxon indulgences, enumerated by the accurate Strype . It had alſo from the beginning the dreadful privilege of ſanctuary, which was the cauſe of its being the reſort of every ſpecies of profligates, from the murderer to the pick-pocket; and was moſt tenaciouſly vindicated by its holy rulers. In 1439 ſoldier, who for ſome crime [363] was conducted from Newgate towards Guild-hall, was reſcued by five fellows who ruſhed out of Panyer-alley, and who fled with him into the adjacent ſanctuary. The ſheriffs of that year, Philip Malpas and Robert Marſhall, entered the church, and ſeizing on the ſoldier and other ruffians, carried them chained to Newgate *. The dean and chapter complained of this breach of privilege: the cauſe was heard, and the ſheriffs were obliged to deliver the men into the ſanctuary. But in 1457 the king thought proper to regulate theſe privileges, and to diſtinguiſh how far they might be protected; and that the dean and chapter ſhould take care that none of the villainous refugees ſhould become further noxious to their fellow-creatures .

A MAGNIFICENT church was erected within this juriſdiction, which was continued till the college was ſurrendered, in 1548, when it was pulled down, and a great tavern erected in the place. St. Martin's Le Grand was then, and ſtill continues under the government of the dean of Weſtminſter. It was granted to that monaſtery by Henry VII. It ſtill continues independent of the city: numbers of mechanics, (particularly taylors and ſhoemakers), ſet up there, and exerciſe their trades within its limits, and have vote for the members of the borough of Weſtminſter. The dean and chapter have a court here, and a priſon: and, I think, all proceſſes to be executed within this liberty, are to be directed, by the ſheriffs of London, to the conſtable of the dean and chapter of Weſtminſter.

THIS church, with thoſe of Bow, St. Giles's Cripplegate, and Barkin, had its Curfew bell long after the ſervile injunction laid on the Londoners had ceaſed. Theſe were ſounded to give notice [364] to the inhabitants of thoſe diſtricts to keep within, and not to wander in the ſtreets: which were infeſted by a ſet of ruffians, who made a practice of inſulting, wounding, robbing, and murdering the people, whom they happened to meet abroad during night *.

CHEAPSIDE.THE view we have of Cheapſide, as it appeared juſt before the great fire, ſhews that it was ſpacious and beautiful. The croſs and conduit are to be ſeen; and the long row of ſhops, which projected from the houſes, reached to the bottom of the firſt floors, and were lighted by windows in the roofs. This ſhews the antient forms of building our more magnificent ſtreets. On the ſouth ſide ſtands the church of St. Mary le Bow, or de arcubus, becauſe it originally was built upon arches. It periſhed in 1666, and was rebuilt after a deſign of Sir Chriſtopher Wren's. I cannot expreſs myſelf better than in the words of an ingenious writer, who calls it "a delightful abſurdity ." In this church was interred Sir John Coventry, mercer, lord mayor in 1425, and anceſtor and founder of the family of the earl of Coventry. I beg leave here to remind ſeveral other noble peers of their induſtrious and honeſt forefathers.

JOHN COVENTRY, ſon of William Coventry, of the city of that name, was an opulent mercer of the city of London, and mayor in 1425; a moſt ſpirited magiſtrate, who dared to interfere in the dreadful quarrel between Humphrey duke of Gloceſter and the inſolent cardinal Beaufort, which he ſucceſsfully quelled, from his loins is deſcended the preſent earl of Coventry.

SIR STEPHEN BROWN, ſon of John Brown of Newcaſtle, mayor [365] in 1438, and again in 1448, was a grocer; and gave to us another peer, in the perſon of Sir Anthony Brown, created viſcount Mountague by Philip and Mary, in 1554.

THE Legges roſe to be earls of Dartmouth. The firſt who was nobilitated was that loyal and gallant ſea officer George Legge, created baron of Dartmouth in 1682. He was deſcended from an anceſtor of one of the above-mentioned names, who filled the praetorian chair of London in the years 1347 and 1354, having, by his induſtry in the trade of a ſkinner, attained to great wealth.

SIR GEFFRY BULLEN, mayor in 1458, was grandfather to Thomas earl of Wiltſhire, father of Anna Bullen, and grandfather to queen Elizabeth; the higheſt genealogical honor the city ever poſſeſſed.

SIR BAPTIST HICKS was a great mercer at the acceſſion of James I. and made a vaſt fortune by ſupplying the court with ſilks. He was firſt knighted, afterwards created viſcount Cambden. It is ſaid he left his two daughters a hundred thouſand pounds apiece. He built a large houſe in St. John's-ſtreet, for the juſtices of Middleſex to hold their ſeſſions, which (till its demolition, a very few years ago, upon the erection of a new ſeſſions-houſe on Clerkenwell Green) retained the name of Hicks's Hall.

THE Capels, earls of Eſſex, are deſcended from Sir William Capel, draper, mayor in 1503. He firſt ſet up a cage in every ward, for the puniſhment of idle people.

MICHAEL DORMER, mercer, mayor in 1542, produced the future lord Dormers.

EDWARD OSBORN, by his fortunate leap, as before related, when apprentice to Sir William Hewet, attained in conſequence great wealth and honors. He was mayor in 1583; and from his loins ſprung the dukes of Leeds.

[366]FROM Sir William Craven, merchant-taylor, mayor in 1611, ſprung the gallant earl Craven, who was his eldeſt ſon, and was greatly diſtinguiſhed by his actions in the ſervice of the unfortunate Elector Palatine, by his attachment to the dowager, and his marriage with that illuſtrious princeſs.

LORD Viſcount Dudley and Ward is deſcended from William Ward, a wealthy goldſmith in London, and jeweller to Henrietta Maria, queen to Charles I. His ſon, Humble Ward, married Frances, grand-daughter of Edward Sutton, lord Dudley, on the death of her grandfather baroneſs of Dudley; and he himſelf created, in 1643, lord Ward, of Birmingham.

THE old church of Bow was founded in the time of William the Conqueror; we have before given the origin of the name, which was from the arches of the foundation, not of the ſteeple, which was rebuilt with arches, or in a crown faſhion, but not till long after the year 1512 *.STORY OF FITZ-OSBERT. In this tower, in 1196, one William Fitz-Oſbert, alias Long Beard, a ſeditious fellow of uncommon eloquence, but of the loweſt rank, ſet up as advocate for the poorer citizens againſt the oppreſſions of the rich. He took opportunity of beginning a tumult by inflaming their minds againſt a certain tax, raiſed entirely for the neceſſities of the ſtate. Many lives were loſt on the occaſion, at St. Paul's. Hubert, the great juſticiary, ſummoned Long Beard to appear before him; but found him ſo well ſupported, that he thought it prudent to forbear puniſhment. This ſerved but to increaſe his inſolence. He grew ſo outrageous, that the citizens were reſolved to bring him to juſtice: a reſolute band made the attempt, when he and a few deſperate fellows fled to the tower of Bow ſteeple, which they fortified. The beſiegers, ſeeing the mob aſſemble from all parts to his reſcue, made a fire [367] at the bottom, which forced him and his companions to ſally out; but they were taken, and the next day he and eight more were dragged by their heels to the Elms at Smithfield, and there hanged. It was ſaid, that finding himſelf deſerted by Heaven, he at the gallows ‘forſook Mary's Son (as he called our SAVIOUR), and called upon the Devil to helpe and deliver him.’ Yet, notwithſtanding this, a cunning prieſt, a relation of his, ſtole his body, and pretended many miracles were wrought at the place of execution; and many perſons paſſed the night on the ſpot which deprived them of a martyr, who died ſupporting the majeſty of the people, as Thomas Becket did that of the pope.

IN the middle of the ſtreet, a little to the weſt of the church,THE C [...]S. ſtood the croſs and the conduit. The firſt was one of the affectionate tokens of Edward I. towards his queen Elinor, built where her body reſted in its way to interment, in 1290. It had originally the ſtatue of the queen, and in all reſpects reſembling that at Northampton; at length, falling to decay, it was rebuilt, in 1441, by John Hutherby, mayor of the city, at the expence of ſeveral of the citizens. It was ornamented with various images, ſuch as that of the Reſurrection, of the Virgin, of Edward the Confeſſor, and the like. At every public entry it was new gilt, for the magnificent proceſſions took this road. After the Reformation, the images gave much offence; the goddeſs Diana was ſubſtituted inſtead of the Virgin, after the ſymbols of ſuperſtition had been frequently mutilated. Queen Elizabeth diſapproved of thoſe attacks on the remnants of the old religion, and offered a large reward for the diſcovery of the offenders. She thought that a plain croſs, the mark of the religion of the country, ought not to be the occaſion of any ſcandal; ſo directed that one ſhould be placed [368] on the ſummit, and gilt *. Superſtition is certain, in courſe of time, to take the other extreme. In the year 1643, the parlement voted the taking down of all croſſes, and the demoliſhing of all popiſh paintings, &c. The deſtruction of this croſs was committed to Sir Robert Harlow; who went on the ſervice with true zeal, attended by a troop of horſe and two companies of foot, and executed his orders moſt effectually. The ſame moſt pious and religious noble knight did alſo attack and demoliſh "the abominable and moſt blaſphemous crucifix" in Chriſt's hoſpital, and broke it into a thouſand pieces . In ſhort, ſuch was the rage of the times againſt the ſign of our religion, that it was not ſuffered in ſhop-books, or even in the primers of children ; and as to the croſs uſed in baptiſm, it became the abomination of abominations.

And ſome againſt all idolizing,
The Croſs in ſhop-books, and baptizing.

THE Nag's-head tavern, almoſt oppoſite to the croſs, was the fictitious ſcene of conſecration of the Proteſtant biſhops, at the acceſſion of queen Elizabeth, in 1559. It was pretended by the adverſaries of our religion, that a certain number of eccleſiaſtics, in hurry to take poſſeſſion of the vacant ſees, aſſembled here, where they were to undergo the ceremony from Anthony Kitchen, alias Duſtan, biſhop of Llandaff, a ſort of occaſional conformiſt, who had taken the oaths of ſupremacy to Elizabeth. Bonner, biſhop of London, (then confined in the Tower) hearing of it, ſent [369] his chaplain to Kitchen, threatening him with excommunication, in caſe he proceeded. On this the prelate refuſed to perform the ceremony: on which, ſay the Catholics, Parker and the other candidates, rather than defer poſſeſſion of their dioceſes, determined to conſecrate one another; which, ſays the ſtory, they did without any ſort of ſcruple, and Icorey began with Parker, who inſtantly roſe archbiſhop of Canterbury. The refutation of this tale may be read in Strype's Life of archbiſhop Parker, at p. 57, which makes it needleſs for me to enter on the attempt. A view of the tavern, and its ſign, is preſerved in a print in the Entré de la Reyne Mere du Roy, or of Mary de Medicis, when ſhe viſited our unfortunate monarch, Charles I. and her daughter, his fair ſpouſe.

IN Laurence-lane, not far from hence, was another public-houſe of much antiquity, and which is ſtill in great buſineſs as a carriers inn; the Bloſſoms Inn, ſo named from the rich border of flowers which adorned the original ſign, that of St. Laurence. Theſe were the effects of his martyrdom, "for (ſays the legend) flowers ſprung up on the ſpot of his cruel martyrdom."

IN this ſtreet, between the croſs and Sopers-lane, were held moſt ſplendid tournaments in the year 1331; they began Sept. 21, and laſted three days. A ſcaffold was erected for queen Philippa and her gay troop of ladies, all moſt richly attired, to behold the knights collected from all quarters to ſhew their ſkill in deeds of arms. The upper part of the ſcaffold, on which the ladies were ſeated, "brake in ſunder, and," as Stow ſays, ‘whereby they were (with ſome ſhame) forced to fall downe;’ and many knights and others, which ſtood beneath, much hurt. The carpenters were ſaved from puniſhment, by the interceſſion of the [370] queen; but, to prevent ſuch accidents in future, the king ordered a building of ſtone to be erected, near the church of St. Mary le Bow, for himſelf, the queen, and "other ſtates," to ſee the gallant ſpectacles in ſafety *. This was uſed long after for the ſame purpoſe, even till the year 1410, when Henry IV. granted it to certain mercers, who converted it into ſhops, warehouſes, and other requiſites of their trade .

CONDUIT.A LITTLE to the eaſt of the croſs ſtood the conduit, which ſerved as the mother or chief aqueduct, which was to ſerve the leſſer conduits with water, brought by pipes from Paddington. This ſtood on the ſite of the old conduit, founded in 1285, caſtellated with ſtone, and ciſterned in lead, as old Stow tells us; and again rebuilt in 1479, by Thomas Ilan, one of the ſheriffs. On ſome very feſtive occaſions theſe conduits have been made to run with claret. Such was the caſe at the coronation of Anna Bullen; who was received at the leſſer conduit by Pallas, Juno, and Venus. Mercury, in the name of the goddeſſes, preſented to her a ball of gold divided into three parts, ſignifying three gifts beſtowed on her by the deities, WISDOM, RICHES, and FELICITY. But, alas! beneath them lurked ſpeedy diſgrace, impriſonment, the block, and axe.

THE STANDARD.I CANNOT well fix the place where the old Standard in Cheap ſtood. The time of its foundation is unknown. It appears to have been very ruinous in 1442, at which time Henry VI. granted a licence for the repairing of it, together with a conduit in the ſame. This was a place at which executions, and other acts of juſtice, [371] were in old times frequently performed. Here, in 1293,EXECUTIONS AT THE STANDARD. three men had their heads cut off, for reſcuing a priſoner arreſted by a city officer. In 1351, two fiſhmongers were beheaded at the ſtandard, but their crime has not reached us. In 1461, John Davy had his hand ſtruck off, for ſtriking a man before the judges at Weſtminſter; and in 1399, Henry IV. cauſed the blank charters, made by Richard II. to be burned here, as we do libels in our times.

BUT theſe were legal acts. Many ſad inſtances of barbarous executions were done in the fury of popular commotions. Richard Lions, an eminent goldſmith, and late ſheriff of the city, was in 1381 (with ſeveral others) cruelly beheaded here by order of Wat Tyler. Lions was interred in the church of St. James, Garlic-hith, and on his tomb (now loſt) was his figure in a long flowered gown, a large purſe hanging in a belt from his ſhoulders, his hair ſhort, his beard forked, a plain hood falling back and covering his ſhoulders. At the ſame time numbers of foreign merchants, eſpecially Flemings, were dragged from the churches, and, the Shibboleth * of Bread and Cheeſe being put to them (which they pronouncing Brot and Cawſe) they were inſtantly put to death. In 1450, lord Say, high treaſurer of England, loſt his head at the Standard, by the brutality of John Cade. Shakeſpeare admirably deſcribes the tragic ſcene .

WHETHER Walter Stapleton, biſhop of Exeter, ſuffered by the popular fury on this ſpot, is rather uncertain; ſome imagine [372] that he was beheaded at a croſs before the north door of St. Paul's *; to which church he was flying for refuge, and unfortunately ſeized by the mob before he had taken ſanctuary.

THROUGH this ſtreet, and probably to this croſs, in 1439, walked barefooted, with a tap [...]r in her hand, Elinor Cobham, wiſe to Humphrey duke of Glouceſter, charged with the crime of ſorcery, with intending the death of the king by melting an image of wax, with which his body was to ſympathize.

Limus ut hic dureſcit, et haec ut cera liqueſcit .

A more ſerious fate attended her pretended accomplices; a woman was burnt, and three men, among whom was her chaplain, were hanged.

GUILDHALL.THE Guildhall of this vaſt city ſtands at the end of a ſtreet running northward from Cheapſide. Before the year 1411, the court-hall, or Bury, as it was called, was held at Aldermans bury, ſo denominated from their meeting there. Stow remembered its ruins, and ſays, that in his days it was uſed as Carpenters-hall. It was ſucceeded by a new one, begun in 1411, and finiſhed in twenty years, by voluntary contributions, by ſums raiſed for pardons of offences, and by fines. Its gothic front terminates the end of King-ſtreet. Its length is a hundred and fifty-three feet; its breadth forty-eight; its height fifty-five; ſo that it is capable of holding thouſands of people. Elections, and every ſpecies of city buſineſs, is tranſacted here.

[373]WITHIN are portraits of numbers of our judges, who frequently try cauſes under this roof. I muſt direct the reader's attention to twelve of that order of peculiar merit: theſe are the portraits of the able and virtuous Sir MATTHEW HALE, and his eleven cotemporary judges; who, after the dreadful calamity of 1 [...]66, regulated the rebuilding of the city of London by ſuch wiſe rules, as to prevent the endleſs train of vexatious law-ſuits which might enſue; and been little leſs chargeable than the fire itſelf had been. This was principally owing to Sir Matthew Hale, who conducted the buſineſs; and ſat with his brethren in Clifford's Inn, to compoſe all differences between landlord and tenant. Theſe portraits were painted by Michael Wright, a good painter in the time of Charles II. and James II. and who died in the year 1700. It was deſigned that Sir Peter Lely ſhould draw theſe pictures, but he faſtidiouſly refuſed to wait on the judges at their chambers. Wright received ſixty pounds apiece for his work *. In the year 1779, they were found to be in ſo bad a condition, as to make it an even queſtion with the committee of city lands, whether they ſhould be continued in their places, or committed to the flames. To the eternal honor of alderman Townſend, his vote decided in favor of their preſervation . He recommended Mr. Roma, (now unhappily ſnatched from us by death), who, by his great ſkill in repairing pictures, reſcued them from the rage of time: ſo that they may remain another century, a proof of the gratitude of our capital. Theſe were proofs of a ſenſe of real [374] merit: but in how many places do we meet inſtances of a temporary idolatry, the phrenzy of the day! Statues and portraits appear, to the aſtoniſhment of poſterity, purged from the prejudices of the time.

The things themſelves are neither ſcarce nor rare;
The wonder's, how the devil they got there!

FACING the entrance are two tremendous figures, by ſome named Gog and Magog; by Stow, an antient Briton and Saxon. I leave to others the important deciſion. At the bottom of the room is a marble group, of good workmanſhip, (with London and Commerce whimpering like two marred children), executed ſoon after the year 1770, by Mr. BACON. The principal figure was alſo a giant, in his day, the raw-head and bloody-bones to the good folks at St. James's; which, while remonſtrances were in faſhion, annually haunted the court in terrific forms. The eloquence daſhed in the face of majeſty, alas! proved in vain. The ſpectre was there condemned to ſilence; but his patriotiſm may be read by his admiring fellow-citizens, as long as the melancholy marble can retain the tale of the affrighted times.

GREAT FEASTS.THE firſt time that this hall was uſed on feſtive occaſions, was by Sir John Shaw, goldſmith, knighted in the field of Boſworth. After building the eſſentials of good kitchens and other offices, in the year 1500 he gave here the mayor's feaſt, which before had uſually been done in Grocers-hall. None of their bills of fare have reached me, but doubtleſsly they were very magnificent. They at length grew to ſuch exceſs, that, in the time of Philip and Mary, a ſumptuary law was made to reſtrain the expence [375] both of proviſions and liveries: but I ſuſpect, as it leſſened the honor of the city, it was not long obſerved; for in 1554, the city thought proper to renew the order of council, by way of reminding their fellow-citizens of their relapſe into luxury. Among the great feaſts given here on public occaſions, may be reckoned that given in 1612, on occaſion of the unhappy marriage of the prince Palatine with Elizabeth, daughter of James I; who, in defiance of the remonſtrances of his better-judging father-in-law, ruſhed on the uſurpation of the dominion of another monarch, and brought great miſery on himſelf and his amiable ſpouſe. The next was in 1641, when Charles I. returned from his imprudent, inefficacious journey into Scotland. In the midſt of the moſt factious and turbulent times, when every engine was ſet to work to annihilate the regal power, the city, under its lord mayor, Sir William Acton, made a feaſt unparalleled in hiſtory for its magnificence. All external reſpect was payed to his majeſty; the laſt he ever experienced in the inflamed city. Of the entertainment we know no more, than that it conſiſted of five hundred diſhes. But of that which was given in our happier days, to his preſent majeſty, in the mayoralty of Sir Samuel Fludyer, the bill of fare is given us. This I print; and, as a parallel to it, that of another royal feaſt, given in 1487 at Whitehall, on occaſion of the coronation of Elizabeth, queen of Henry VII, whom he treats with characteriſtical oeconomy, notwithſtanding a kingdom was her dower *.

[376]

The KING'S TABLE, GEORGE III. 1761.
FIRST SERVICE.
 £.s.d.
12 Diſhes of Olio, Turtle, Pottages, and Soups2420
12 Ditto of F [...]ſh, viz. John Dories, red Mullets, &c.2420
7 Ditto roaſt Veniſon1000
3 Weſtphalia Hams conſume, and richly ornamented660
2 Diſhes of Pullets à la Royale220
2 Diſhes of Tongues Eſpagniole330
6 Ditto Chickens à la Reine660
1 Ditto Tondron Devaux à la Dauzie220
1 Harrico110
1 Diſh Popiets of Veale Glaſſe140
2 Diſhes Fillets of Lamb, à la Comte220
2 Ditto Comports of Squabs220
2 Ditto Fillets of Beef Marinate300
2 Ditto of Mutton à la Memorance220
32 Ditto fine Vegetables16160
SECOND SERVICE.
6 Diſhes fine Ortolans2540
10 Ditto Quails1500
10 Ditto Notts3000
1 Ditto Wheat Ears110
1 Goodevau Patte1100
1 Perr [...]goe Pye1100
1 Diſh Pea-chicks110
4 Diſhes Woodcocks440
2 Diſhes Pheaſants330
4 Ditto Teal330
4 Ditto Snipes330
2 Ditto Partridges220
2 Ditto Pattys Royal300
THIRD SERVICE.
1 Ragout Royal110
8 Diſhes of fine green Morells880
10 Ditto fine green Peas10100
3 Ditto Aſparagus Heads220
3 Ditto fine fat Livers1116
3 Ditto fine Combs1116
5 Ditto green Truffles550
5 Ditto Artichoaks, à la Provinciale2126
5 Ditto Muſhrooms au Blank2126
1 Diſh Cardons, à la Bejamel0106
1 Ditto Knots of Eggs0106
1 Ditto Ducks Tongues0106
3 Ditto of Peths1116
1 Diſh of Truffles in Oil0106
4 Diſhes of Pallets220
2 Ditto Ragout Mille220
FOURTH SERVICE.
2 Curious ornamented Cakes2120
12 Diſhes of Blomanges, repreſenting different Figures12120
12 Ditto clear Marbrays1480
16 Ditto fine cut Paſtry16160
2 Ditto mille Fuelles1106
THE CENTRE OR THE TABLE.
1 Grand Pyramid of Demies of Shell-fiſh of various Sorts220
32 Cold Things of Sorts, viz. Temples, Shapes, Landſcapes in Jellies, ſavory Cakes, and Almond Gothes33120
2 Grand Epergnes filled with fine Pickles, and garniſhed round with Plates of Sorts, as Laſpicks Rolards, &c.660
Total of the KING'S Table£. 37410

THE whole of this day's entertainment coſt the city £. 6,898. 5s. 4d. A committee had been appointed out of the body of aldermen, who moſt deſervedly received the thanks of the lord mayor and whole body corporate, for the ſkilful diſcharge of this important truſt. The feaſt conſiſted of four hundred and fourteen diſhes, beſides the deſert; and the hoſpitality of the city, and the elegance of the entertainment, might vie with any that had ever preceded.

[379]

NUPTIAL TABLE. HENRY VII *.

FIRST COURSE.
  • A Warner byfor the Courſe
  • Sheldes of Brawne in Armor
  • Frumetye with Veniſon
  • Bruet riche
  • Hart powdered graunt Chars
  • Feſaunt intram de Royall
  • Swan with Chawdron
  • Capons of high Goe
  • Lampervey in Galantine
  • Crane with Cretney
  • Pik in Latymer Sawce
  • Heronuſew with his Sique
  • Carpe in Foile
  • Kid reverſed
  • Perche in Jeloye depte
  • Conys of high Grece
  • Moten Roiall richely garnyſhed
  • Valance baked
  • Cuſtarde Royall
  • Tarte Poleyn
  • Leyſe Damaſk
  • Frutt Synoper
  • Frutt Formage
  • A Soteltie, with writing of Balads.
SECOND COURSE.
  • A Warner byfor the Courſe
  • Joly Ypocras
  • Mamane with Lozengs of Golde
  • Pekok in Hakell
  • Bittowre
  • Feſawnte
  • Browes
  • Egrets in Beorwetye
  • Cokks
  • Patrieche
  • Sturgyn freſhe Fenell
  • Plovers
  • Rabett Sowker
  • Seyle in Fenyn entirely ſerved richely
  • Red Shankks
  • Snytes
  • Quayles
  • Larkes ingraylede
  • Creves de Endence
  • Veneſone in Paſte Royall
  • Quince Baked
  • Marche Payne Royall
  • A colde bake Mete flouriſhede
  • Lethe Ciprus
  • Lethe Rube
  • Fruter Augeo
  • Fruter Mouniteyne
  • [381]Caſtells of Jely in Temple wiſe made
  • A Soteltie.
*
Leland's Collectanea, iv. 216.

THESE Sotelties, or Subtilities as they were called, were the ornamental part of the deſert, and were extremely different from thoſe in preſent uſe. In the inthronization feaſt of archbiſhop Wareham, on March 9th, 1504, the firſt courſe was preceded by ‘a warner *, conveyed upon a rounde boorde of viii panes, with viii towres embatteled and made with flowres, ſtandynge on every towre a bedil in his habite, with his ſtaffe: and in the ſame boorde, firſt the king ſyttinge in his parliament, with his lordes about hym in their robes; and Saint Wylliam, lyke an archiſhop, ſytting on the ryght hand of the kyng: then the chaunceler of Oxforde, with other doctors about hym, preſented the ſaid lord Wylliam, kneelyng, in a doctor's habite, unto the kyng, with his commend of vertue and cunnynge, &c. &c. And on the third boorde of the ſame warner, the Holy Ghoſte appeared with bryght beames proceedyng from hym of the gyftes of grace towarde the ſayde lorde of the feaſte.’ This is a ſpecimen of the antient ſotelties. This was a Lenten feaſt of the moſt luxurious kind. Many of the ſotelties were ſuited to the occaſion, and of the legendary nature; others hiſtorical; but all, without doubt, contrived "with great cunnynge."

TO theſe ſcenes of luxury and gluttony, let me oppoſe the ſimple fare at a feaſt of the Wax-chandlers, on Oct. 28th, 1478. Theſe were a flouriſhing company in the days of old, when gratitude [382] to ſaints called ſo frequently for lights. How many thouſands of wax candles were conſumed on thoſe occaſions, and what quantities the expiatory offerings of private perſons, none can enumerate. Candle-maſs day waſted its thouſands, and thoſe all bleſſed by the prieſts, and adjured in ſolemn terms. ‘I adjure thee, O waxen creature, that thou repel the devil and his ſprights, &c. &c *.’ Certainly this company, which was incorporated in 1484, might have afforded a more delicate feaſt than

 £.s.d.
Two loins of Mutton, and two loins of Veal014
A loin of Beef004
A Leg of Mutton00
A Pig004
A Capon006
A Coney002
One dozen of Pigeons007
A hundred Eggs00
A Gooſe006
A Gallon of Red Wine008
A Kilderkin of Ale008
 £. 070

GUILDHALL CHAPEL.ADJACENT to Guildhall, is Guildhall chapel, or college, a gothic building, founded by Peter Fanlore, Adam Francis, and Henry Frowick, citizens, about the year 1299. The eſtabliſhment was [383] a warden, ſeven prieſts, three clerks, and four choriſters. Edward VI. granted it to the mayor and commonalty of the city of London *. Here uſed to be ſervice once a week, and alſo at the election of the mayor, and before the mayor's feaſt, to deprecate indigeſtions, and all plethoric evils . At preſent divine ſervice is diſcontinued here, the chapel being uſed as a juſtice room.

ADJOINING to it once ſtood a fair library,LIBRARY. furniſhed with books belonging to Guildhall, built by the executors of the famous Whittington. Stow ſays that the protector Somerſet ſent to borrow ſome of the books, with a promiſe of reſtoring them; three Curries were laden with them, but they never more were returned .

IMMEDIATELY beyond the chapel ſtands Blackwall's hall, or,BLACKWALL'S HALL. more properly, Bakewell, from its having in later years been inhabited by a perſon of that name. It was originally called Baſing's haugh, or hall, from a family of that name; the coats of arms of which were to be ſeen cut in ſtone, or painted, in the antient building. It was on vaults of ſtone brought from Caen in Normandy; the time is uncertain, but certainly after the Conqueſt. The family were of great antiquity. Solomon Baſing was mayor in 1216; and another of the name ſheriff in 1308. In 1397 the houſe was purchaſed by the mayor and commonalty for fifty pounds, and from that time has been uſed as the market of woollen cloth. It grew ſo ruinous in the time of queen Elizabeth, that it was pulled down, and rebuilt at the expence of twenty-five hundred pounds; much of it at the expence of Richard [384] May, merchant-taylor. It conſiſts at preſent of two large courts, with warehouſes in all parts for the lodging of the cloth; but is very little uſed. Formerly there were proclamations iſſued to compel people to bring their goods into this hall, to prevent deceit in the manufactures, which might bring on us diſcredit in foreign markets, and alſo be the means of defrauding the poor children of Chriſt hoſpital of part of the revenue which aroſe from the hallage of this great magazine.

HOSPITAL OF ST. THOMAS OF ACON;ON the north ſide of Cheapſide ſtood the hoſpital of St. Thomas of Acon, founded by Thomas Fitz-Theobald de Helles and his wife Agnes, ſiſter to the turbulent Thomas Becket, who was born in the houſe of his father Gilbert, ſituated on this ſpot. The mother of our meek ſaint was a fair Saracen, whom his father had married in the Holy Land. On the ſite of his houſe roſe the hoſpital, built within twenty years after the murder of Thomas; yet ſuch was the repute of his ſanctity, that it was dedicated to him, in conjunction with the bleſſed Virgin, without waiting for his canonization. The hoſpital conſiſted of a maſter and ſeveral brethren, profeſſing the rule of St. Auſtin. The church, cloiſters, &c. were granted by Henry VIII. to the Mercers company, who had the gift of the maſterſhip *.

NOW MERCER [...] HALL.IN the old church were numbers of monuments; among others, one to James Butler earl of Ormond, and Joan his wife, living in the beginning of the reign of Henry VI. This whole pile was deſtroyed in the great fire, but was very handſomely rebuilt by the Mercers company, who have their hall here. In the portico to the chapel is a full-length figure recumbent of Richard [385] Fiſhbourn, dreſſed in a furred gown and a ruff; he died in 1623, and, being a great benefactor to the place, received the honor of this monument.

THIS company is the firſt of the twelve, or ſuch who are honored with the privilege of the lord mayor's being elected out of one of them. The name by no means implied originally a dealer in ſilks: for mercery included all ſorts of ſmall wares, toys, and haberdaſhery *. But, as numbers of this opulent company were merchants, and imported great quantities of rich ſilks from Italy, the name became applied to the company, and all dealers in ſilk. Several of the portraits in the great room of this hall are of Italian merchants. Not fewer than ſixty-two mayors were of this company, between the years 1214 and 1762; among which it reckons Sir John Coventry, Sir Richard Whittington, and Sir Richard and Sir John Greſham. We are obliged to the exact Strype for the liſt. In that by Maitland, the company each mayor was of, is omitted.

IMMEDIATELY to the eaſt is the narrow ſtreet, the Old Jewry, THE OLD JEWRY. which took its name from the great ſynagogue which ſtood there till the unhappy race were expelled the kingdom, in 1291. Their perſecutions, under ſome of the preceding monarchs, nearly equalled thoſe of the Chriſtians under the Roman emperors: yet the love of gain retained them in our country in defiance of all their ſufferings. A new order of friars, called Fratres de Sacca, or de penitentia, got poſſeſſion of the Jewiſh temple: but did not hold it long. Robert Fitzwalter, the great banner-bearer of the city, requeſted, in 1305, that the friars might aſſign it to him. It [386] ſeems it joined to his own houſe, which ſtood near the ſite of the preſent Grocers hall. In 1439, it was occupied by Robert Lorge, mayor, who kept his mayoralty in this houſe; Sir Hugh Clapton did the ſame in 1492; and after theſe tenants it was degraded into a tavern, diſtinguiſhed by the ſign of the Windmill.

GROCERS HALL.THE chapel, or church, was bought by the Grocers company, in 1411, from Fitzwalter, for three hundred and twenty marks *; who here layed the foundation of the preſent hall, a noble room, with a gothic front, and bow window. Here, to my great ſurprize,O. SIR JOHN CUTLER. I met again with Sir John Cutler, knight, and grocer, in marble and on canvas. In the firſt he is repreſented ſtanding, in a flowing wig waved rather than curled, a laced cravat, and a furred gown with the folds not ungraceful: in all, except where the dreſs is inimical to the ſculptor's art, it may be called a good performance. By his portrait we may learn that this worthy wore a black wig, and was a good-looking man. He died in 1693. His kinſman and executor Edmund Boulter, Eſq expended £. 7,666 on his funeral expences . I am to learn how his ſtatue and portrait came here. He is ſpoken of as a benefactor, and that he built the parlour, and over it an entertaining room. The anecdote of his bounty to the College of Phyſicians, may lead one to ſuppoſe that the Grocers did not meet with more liberal treatment. If not, the character given of him by Mr. Pope, may reſt unimpeached:

Thy life more wretched, Cutler, was confeſs'd,
Ariſe and tell me was thy death more bleſs'd?
[387] Cut [...]er ſaw tenants break, and houſes fall;
For very want he could not build a wall.
His only daughter in a ſtranger's power *;
For very want he could not pay a dower.
A few grey hairs his rev'rend temples crown'd.
'Twas very want that ſold them for ten pound.
What ev'n denied a cordial at his end,
Baniſh'd the doctor, and expell'd the friend?
What but a want, which you perhaps think mad,
Yet numbers feel, the want of what he had!

THIS company follows the Mercers; they were originally called Pepperers, from their dealing ſo greatly in pepper: but in 1345 they were incorporated by the name of Grocers, either becauſe they fold things by, or dealt in groſſi or figs . But from the beginning they trafficked in all the good things which the trade does to this day.

I FORGOT Buckleſbury, BUCKLESBURY. a ſtreet which opens on the ſouth ſide of Cheapſide, a little to the weſt of the Grocers hall. It took its name from one Buckle, who had in it a large manour-houſe of ſtone. This man loſt his life in a ſtrange way. Near his houſe ſtood an old tower built by Edward I. called the Cornets tower, poſſibly a watch tower, from the ſummit of which ſignals might have been given by the blowing of a horn. This, Buckle intended to pull down, and to have built a handſome houſe of [388] wood; or, according to the expreſſion of the times, a goodly frame of timber: but in greedily demoliſhing this tower, a ſtone fell on him, and cruſhed him to death; and another, who married his widow, ſet up the new-prepared frame of timber, and finiſhed the work. This ſtreet, in Stow's time, was the reſidence of grocers and apothecaries *.

THE MANSION-HOUSE.ON the ſame ſide of the way is the Manſion-houſe, "damned, I may ſay, to everlaſting fame ." The ſight is relieved amply by another building behind it, St. Stephen's, Walbrook, a ſmall church, the chef d'aeuvre of Sir Chriſtopher Wren, of moſt exquiſite beauty. ‘Perhaps Italy itſelf, (ſays a judicious writer) can produce no modern building that can vie with this in taſte and proportion: there is not a beauty, which the plan would admit of, that is not to be found here in the greateſt perfection; and foreigners, very juſtly, call our taſte in queſtion, for underſtanding the graces no better, and allowing it no higher degree of fame .’

OVER the altar is a beautiful picture of the martyrdom of St. Stephen, by Mr. Weſt. The character of the ſaint is finely expreſſed in his angelic countenance, reſigned to his fate, and full of ſure and certain hope. I looked to no purpoſe for the ſtatue erected, DIVAe MAC-AULAe, by her doating admirer, a former rector; which a ſucceſſor of his has moſt profanely pulled down.

Figure 1. SIR RICHARD CLOUGH, K [...]

THE opening before the Manſion-houſe divides into three important ſtreets: Cornhill in the center; the Bank of England, the old Threadneedle-ſtreet, on the north; and Lombard-ſtreet on the ſouth. I ſhall purſue theſe as far as the ſpots which I have paſſed over, and give the remaining things worthy of notice. I ſhall take the middle way.

THE Royal Exchange, that concourſe of all the nations of the world, ariſes before us with the full majeſty of commerce.ROYAL EXCHANGE. Whether we conſider the grandeur of the edifice, or the vaſt concerns carried on within its walls, we are equally ſtruck with its importance. But we are more aſtoniſhed when we find that this expenſive princely pile was the effect of the munificence of a private citizen, SIR THOMAS GRESHAM. Let the pride of my country not be ſuppreſſed, when I have opportunity of ſaying, that the original hint was given to him by a Welſhman; by Richard Clough, afterwards knighted, originally his ſervant, and in the year 1561, by his merit and induſtry, advanced by Sir Thomas to be his correſpondent and agent in the then emporium of the world, [390] Antwerp. Clough wrote to his maſter, to blame the city of London for neglecting ſo neceſſary a thing; bluntly telling, that they ſtudied nothing elſe but their own private profit; that they were content to walk about in the rain, more like pedlars than merchants; and that there was no kind of people but had their place to tranſact buſineſs in, in other countries. Thus ſtimulated, Sir Thomas purchaſed ſome tenements on the ſite of the Royal Exchange; and, on June 7, 1566, laid the foundation, and in November, 1567, completed what was then called the Bourſe. In 1570, queen Elizabeth went in great ſtate from her palace at Somerſet-houſe, to make Sir Thomas a viſit at his own houſe. After dinner ſhe went to the Bourſe, viſited every part, and then, by ſound of trumpet, dignified it with the title of the Royal Exchange. All the upper part was filled then, and even to this century, with ſhops; on this occaſion they were filled with the richeſt productions of the univerſe, to ſhew her majeſty the proſperity of the commercial parts of her dominions. I cannot learn what the expence of this noble deſign was, only that the annual product of the rents to his widow was £. 751. 5 s. I am equally unacquainted with the form of the original building, which periſhed in the great fire. It was rebuilt, in its preſent magnificent form, by the city and the company of mercers *, at the expence of eighty thouſand pounds; which, for a conſiderable time, involved the undertakers in a large debt. It was completed in 1669; on Sept. 28, of that year, it was opened by the lord mayor, Sir William Turner, who congratulated the merchants on the occaſion. [391] The following inſcription does grateful honor to the original founder:

HOC GRESHAMII Periſtyllium,
Gentium commercium ſacrum,
Flammis extinctum 1666,
Auguſtius e cinere reſurrexit 1669,
W [...]ll [...] Turnero, milite, praetore.

THE ſtatue of Sir Thomas Greſham is in one corner, in the dreſs of the times. Another, of that worthy citizen Sir John Barnard, graces another part. The reſt are kings, which (as far as king Charles), with that of Sir Thomas, were chiefly executed by Gabriel Cibber; that of Charles II. in the centre, by Gibbons *. And above ſtairs are the ſtatues of Charles I. and II, and another of the illuſtrious founder, by John Buchnell, an artiſt of inferior merit, in the reign of William III. On the top of the tower, in front of the exchange, is a Graſshopper, the creſt of Sir Thomas Greſham. The alluſion to that, and the Dragon on Bow ſteeple, makes a line in that inexcuſable performance of Dean Swift's, a profane imitation of the ſtyle of the BIBLE , which dulneſs itſelf could execute, and which nothing but the moſt indefenſible wantonneſs could have produced from a perſon of his profeſſion, and of his all-acknowleged wit.

I MUST direct the reader's attention to the beautiful gothic tower of St. Michael's, on the ſouth ſide of Cornhill. At each corner is an angulated turret as high as the belfry, where they [392] become fluted, and the capital ornamented with ſculptures of heman faces; from them they ſpire into very elegant pinnacles. The body of this church was burnt in the great fire. It was begun to be built in 1421 *; but the church was of far greater antiquity. It appears to have exiſted in 1133. This church had its pulpit-croſs, like that of St. Paul's, built by Sir John Rudſtone, mayor in 1528, who was interred in a vault beneath in 1531. It may be added, that Robert Fabian, alderman, the celebrated hiſtorian, was buried in this church in 1511, after paſſing the dignity of ſheriff.

THE king had a royal reſidence in this ſtreet, which was afterwards converted into a noted tavern, called the Pope's head. It was a vaſt houſe, and, in the time of Stow, diſtinguiſhed by the arms of England, at that time three leopards paſſant, guardant, and two angels the ſupporters, cut on ſtone .

LEADENHALL.AT the end of Cornhill is, as it were, a continuation of the ſtreet, by the name of that of Leadenhall. It takes its name from a large plain building, inhabited about the year 1309, by Sir Hugh Nevil, knight; in 1384 belonging to Humphry Bohun, earl of Hereford. In 1408 it became the property of the munificent Whittington, who preſented it to the mayor and commonalty of London. In 1419,PUBLIC GRANARY. Sir Simon Eyre, citizen and drape [...], erected here a public granary, built with ſtone in its preſent form. This was to be what the French call a Grenier d'abondance, to be always filled with corn, and deſigned as a preſervative againſt famine. The intent was happily anſwered in diſtreſsful ſeaſons. This and other o [...] [393] the city granaries ſeem at firſt to have been under the care of the mayors; but in Henry VIII's time, regular ſurveyors were appointed. He alſo built a chapel within the ſquare; this he intended to apply to the uſes of a foundation for a warden, ſix ſecular prieſts, ſix clerks, and two choriſters, and beſides, three ſchoolmaſters. For this purpoſe he left three thouſand marks to the Drapers company to fulfil his intent. This was never executed: but in 1466 a fraternity of ſixty prieſts, ſome of whom were to perform divine ſervice every market-day, to ſuch who frequented the market, was founded by three prieſts, William Rouſe, John Riſby, and Thomas Aſhby *.

LEADENHALL-STREET had the good fortune to eſcape tolerably well in the great fire. The houſe was uſed for many other purpoſes; for the keeping the artillery and other arms of the city. Preparations for any triumph or pageantry in the city were made here. From its ſtrength it was conſidered as the chief fortreſs within the city, in caſe of popular tumults; and alſo as the place from which doles, largeſſes, or pious alms, were to be diſtributed. Here, in 1546, while Henry VIII. lay putrefying in ſtate, Heath, biſhop of Wincheſter, his almoner, and others his miniſters, diſtributed great ſums of money, during twelve days, to the poor of the city. The ſame was done at Weſtminſter ; but I greatly fear his majeſty was paſt ranſom! The market here was of great antiquity: conſiderable as it is at preſent, it is far inferior to what it has been, by reaſon of the numbers of other markets which have been eſtabliſhed. Still it is the wonder of foreigners, [394] who do not duly conſider the carnivorous nation to which it belongs.

THE ſlaughter made of the horned cattle, for the ſupport of the metropolis, is evinced by the multitudes of tanned hides expoſed to ſale in the great court of Leadenhall, which is the preſent market for that article.

INDIA-HOUSE.THE India-houſe ſtands a little farther to the eaſt, but is not worthy of the lords of Indoſtan. This was built in 1726, on the ſpot once occupied by Sir William Craven, mayor in 1610; a man of moſt extenſive charity. His houſe was very large, the apartments capacious, and fit for any public concern *.

IN the church of St. Catherine Cree, in this ſtreet, is ſuppoſed to have been interred the celebrated Holbein, who died of the plague in 1554, at the duke of Norfolk's, in the priory of Chriſt-church, near Aldgate. I muſt alſo mention it on another account, for its being the ſtage on which the imprudent, well-meaning Laud acted a moſt ſuperſtitious part in its conſecration, on January 16, 1630-31. His whole conduct tended to add new force to the diſcontents and rage of the times: he attempted innovations in the ceremonies of the church, at a ſeaſon he ought at leſt to have left them in the ſtate he found them: inſtead of that, he puſhed things to extremities, by that, and by his fierce perſecutions of his opponents; from which he never deſiſted till he brought deſtruction on himſelf, and highly contributed to that of his royal maſter.

PRYNNE, whom every one muſt allow to have had ſufficient [395] cauſe of reſentment againſt the archbiſhop, gives the relation with much acrimony, and much prophane humor *:

(As firſt), ‘When the biſhop approached near the communion table, he bowed with his noſe very near the ground ſome ſix or ſeven times; then he came to one of the corners of the table, and there bowed himſelf three times; then to the ſecond, third, and fourth corners, bowing at each corner three times; but when he came to the ſide of the table where the bread and wine was, he bowed himſelf ſeven times; and then, after the reading many praiers by himſelfe and his two fat chaplins, (which were with him, and all this while were upon their knees by him, in their ſirpliſſes, hoods, and tippits), he himſelf came neare the bread, which was cut and laid in a fine napkin, and then he gently lifted up one of the corners of the ſaid napkin, and peeping into it till he ſaw the bread, (like a boy that peeped into a bird's neſt in a buſh), and preſently clapped it down againe, and flew back a ſtep or two, and then bowed very low three times towards it and the table. When he beheld the bread, then he came near and opened the napkin againe, and bowed as before; then he laid his hand upon the gilt cup, which was full of wine, with a cover upon it; ſo ſoon as he had pulled the cupp a little neerer to him, he lett the cupp goe, flew backe, and bowed againe three times towards it; then hee came neere againe, and lifting up the cover of the cupp, peeped into it; and ſeeing the wine, he let fall the cover on it againe, and flew nimbly backe, and bowed as before. After theſe, and many other apiſh, anticke geſtures, he himſelfe [396] received, and then gave the ſacrament to ſome principal men onely, they devoutly kneeling neere the table; after which, more praiers being ſaid, this ſcene and interlude ended.’

To the weſt of St. Catherine Cree, in the ſame ſtreet, ſtands the church of St. Andrew Underſhaft, from the unfortunate ſhaft, or maypole, which on May 1ſt, 1517, gave riſe to the inſurrection of the apprentices, and the plundering of the foreigners in the city, whence it got the name of Evil May-day *. From that time it was hung on a range of hooks over the doors of a long row of neighbouring houſes. In the third of Edward VI, when the plague of fanaticiſm began to ſcandalize the promoters of the Reformed religion, an ignorant wretch, called Sir Stephen, curate of St. Catherine Cree, began to preach againſt this maypole, (notwithſtanding it had hung in peace ever ſince the Evil May-day), as an idol, by naming the church St. Andrew, with the addition of Shaft. This inflamed his audience ſo greatly, that, after eating a hearty dinner to ſtrengthen themſelves, every owner of ſuch houſe over which the ſhaft hung, with aſſiſtance of others, fawed off as much of it as hung over his premiſes: each took his ſhare, and committed to the flames the tremendous idol. This Sir Stephen, ſcorning the uſe of the ſober pulpit, ſometimes mounted on a tomb, with his back to the altar, to pour out his nonſenſical rhapſodies; at other times, he climbed into a lofty elm in the churchyard, and, beſtriding a bough, delivered out his cant with double effect, merely by reaſon of the novelty of the ſituation .

[397]IN the church of St. Andrew Underſhaft was interred the faithful and able hiſtorian of the city, John Stow. He died in 1605, aged 80; and, to the ſhame of his time, in much poverty. His monument is ſtill in being, a well-executed figure, ſitting at a deſk, in a furred gown, and writing. The figure is ſaid to be made of terra cotta, or burnt earth, painted; a common practice in thoſe days: poſſibly ſomewhat ſimilar to the artificial ſtone of our time.

IN Lime-ſtreet, the northern end of which opens into that of Leadenha [...], ſtood the houſe and chapel of the lord Nevil; and after him, of the accompliſhed Sir Simon de Burley, SIR SIMON DE BURLEY'S HOUSE. and of his brother Sir John. In the time of Stow, it was partly taken down, and new fronted with timber, by Hugh Offley, alderman. Finally, not far from hence, towards the end of the adjacent ſtreet of St. Mary-Ax, ſtood the manſion of Richard Vere, earl of Oxford, HOUSE OF RICHARD EARL OF OXFORD. who inhabited it in the beginning of the reign of Henry V; and, drawn from thence in his old age to attend his valiant maſter to the French wars, died in France in 1415 *.

THE ſecond ſtreet which opens into Cheapſide, or rather the Poultry, is Threadneedle, or more properly Three-needle Street. BANK OF ENGLAND. That noble building, the Bank of England, fills one ſide of the ſpace. The center, and the building behind, were founded in the year 1733; the architect, George Sampſon. Before that time the buſineſs was carried on in Grocers Hall. The front is a ſort of veſtibule; the baſe ruſtic, the ornamental columns above, Ionic. Within is a court leading to a ſecond elegant building, which contains a hall and offices, where the debt of above two hundred and [398] fifty millions is punctually diſcharged. Of late years two wings of uncommon elegance, deſigned by Sir Robert Taylor, have been added, at the expence of a few houſes, and of the church of St. Chriſtopher's le Stocks. The demolition of the laſt occaſioned as much injury to the memorials of the dead, and diſturbance of their poor aſhes, as ever the impiety of the fanatics did in the laſt century. Much of my kindred duſt * was violated; among others, thoſe of the Houblon family, ſprung from Peter Houblon, of a reſpectable houſe at Liſle in Flanders, driven to ſeek refuge in England from the rage of perſecution under the Duc d'Alva, in the reign of queen Elizabeth. About the ſame time fled to our ſanctuary John Houblon and Guillaume Lethieulier. The firſt is found to have lent, i. e. given, to her Majeſty, in the perilous year 1588, a hundred pounds . His ſon James flouriſhed in wealth and reputation, and was eminent for his plainneſs and piety. He was buried in the church of St. Mary Woolnoth; but, wanting a monument, the following epitaph was compoſed for him by Samuel Pepys, eſq ſecretary to the admiralty in the reigns of Charles II. and James II:

JACOBUS HOUBLON,
LONDINAS PETRI filius,
Ob fidem Flandria exulantis:
Ex C. Nepotibus habuit LXX ſuperſtites:
Filios V. videns mercatores florentiſſimos;
Ipſe LONDINENSIS Burſae Pater;
Piiſſimè obiit Nonagenarius,
Ao D. MDCLXXXII.

[399]HIS ſons, Sir John Houblon, and Sir James Houblon, knights, and aldermen, roſe to great wealth. From the laſt ſprung the reſpectable family of the Houblons of Hallingbury, in Eſſex. Sir James repreſented his native city. Sir John, my great grandfather by my mother's ſide, left ſix daughters: Arrabella, the eldeſt, married to Richard Mytton, eſq of Halſton, my maternal grandfather; the ſecond to Mr. Denny, a reſpectable merchant in the city; the four younger died unmarried. Sir John Houblon was of the Grocers company, was elected alderman of Cornhill ward, September 17th, 1689; and lord mayor, September 29th, 1695. He was interred in this church January 18th, 1711-12. He was at the ſame time lord mayor of London, a lord of the admiralty, and the firſt governor of the bank of England. His manſion ſtood on the ſite of the houſe; the nobleſt monument he could have.

IT would be injuſtice not to give the name of the projector of that national glory the Bank of England. It was the happy thought of Mr. James Paterſon, of the kingdom of Scotland. This Palladium of our country was, in 1780, ſaved from the fury of an infamous mob by the virtue of its citizens, who formed ſuddenly a volunteer company, and over-awed the miſcreants; while the chief magiſtrate ſkulked trembling in his Manſion-houſe, and left his important charge to its fate. I cannot wonder at the timidity of a peaceful magiſtrate, when the principle of ſelf-preſervation appeared ſo ſtrong in the miniſtry of the day. It was the ſpirit of majeſty itſelf that firſt dictated the means of putting a ſtop to the outrages; which, if exerted at firſt by its ſervants, would have been true mercy!

AT the extremity of Threadneedle-ſtreet, MERCHANT-TAYLORS HALL appears the origin of its name, in Merchant-Taylors hall; at the period in which they [400] were called Taylors, and Linen-armourers, under which title they were incorporated in the year 1480; and by Henry VII. by that of the men of the art and myſtery of Merchant-taylors, of the fraternity of St. John the Baptiſt. They were ſeventh in the rank of the great companies. Multitudes of eminent men were emulous of being admitted into it: ſeven kings, one queen, ſeventeen princes and dukes, two dutcheſſes, one archbiſhop, one and thirty earls, five counteſſes, one viſcount, twenty-four biſhops, ſixty-ſix barons, two ladies, ſeven abbots, ſeven priors, and one ſub-prior, beſides ſquires innumerable, graced the long roll of freemen of this company *.

AMONG the portraits in this hall, is that of William Warham, archbiſhop of Canterbury, and lord high chancellor of England. He went through the various offices, now allotted to laymen, with great abilities; was appointed maſter of the rolls in 1486; keeper of the great ſeal in 1502; and lord chancellor in 1503; and in the following year was advanced to the ſee of Canterbury. He was in high favor with Henry VII; but on the acceſſion of Henry VIII. was ſoon ſupplanted by Wolſey, and experienced his greateſt inſolence. The good primate enjoyed his dignity near twenty-eight years, with great munificence and honor; and died in 1532 .

NEXT is the portrait of Richard Fox, biſhop of Wincheſter, an able ſtateſman, greatly employed by Henry VII. at home and abroad; and continued for ſome time favored by his ſon. He firſt introduced Wolſey to court: but ſoon experienced his ingratitude. [401] Unable to bear his inſolence, he, like Warham, retired from buſineſs. In his old age, when ſtruck with blindneſs, the cardinal meanly hoped to prevale on him to reſign his biſhoprick, to which the good prelate returned a ſpirited reply. He lived to a great age, and died in 1528, after worthily governing the ſee twenty-ſeven years.

FOR the many good deeds of Sir Thomas Row, merchant-taylor, his portrait muſt not be paſſed by. He is dreſſed in a bonnet, ruff, and red gown. He firſt eſtabliſhed a ſubſtantial ſtanding watch in the city, when he was lord mayor, in 1569. He built a convenient room, near St. Paul's Croſs, for a certain number of the auditors to hear the preacher at their eaſe. He incloſed a piece of ground near Bethlem, for the burial place of ſuch pariſhes that wanted church-yards: beſides numberleſs acts of charity, which rendered his memory ſweet to poſterity. He was buried in Hackney, September 2d, 1570; and has an epitaph in verſe, quite in the ſimple ſtyle of the times *.

THE portrait of the illuſtrious Sir Thomas White, honors this hall, dreſſed in a red gown. He was of this fraternity, but poſſibly not of the profeſſion; for numbers of opulent merchants liſted under the banners of the company. It was far from being confined to the trade. No one of his time rivalled him in love of literature, charity, and true piety. In the glorious roll of charities, belonging to this company, he appears with diſtinguiſhed credit. I refer to that for his good deeds, and thoſe of his brethren *. [402] Sir Thomas bought the Benedictine College at Oxford, then called Gloceſter-ball , and founded it by that name. It has ſince been advanced into a college, by the name of Worceſter. He was the ſole founder of St. John's College , on whom he beſtowed his hall. He was diſcontented till he could find a place with two elms growing together, near which he might found this ſeat of learning. He met with his wiſh, and accompliſhed the great deſign. Within my memory, majeſtic elms graced the ſtreet before this college, and the neighboring. The ſcene was truly academic, walks worthy of the contemplative ſchools of ancient days. But alas! in the midſt of numberleſs modern elegancies, in this ſingle inſtance, ‘Some Daemon whiſper'd, OXFORD, have a taſte;’ And by the magic line, every venerable tree fell proſtrate. I refer, as above, to the liſt of the noble charities of this good man. He was born at Woodoakes, in Hertfordſhire; entered on the reward of his excellent deeds in 1566, aged 72; and met with an honorable tomb within the walls of his great foundation .

I NOW deſcend to emperors, and other leſſer characters. A portrait of Charles V. is found here; another of a lord Willougby, with a white rod; and a picture of Henry VII. preſenting them with the letters patent of their incorporation; the painter Clarkſon; who the artiſt was, or when he lived, I am ignorant.

DISTINGUISHED TAYLORS.LET me enumerate the men of valour, and of literature, who [403] have practiſed the original profeſſion of this company.SIR JOHN HAWKWOOD. Sir John Hawkwood, uſually ſtyled Joannes Acutus, from the ſharpneſs of his ſword, or his needle, leads the van. The arch Fuller ſays, he turned his needle into a ſword, and his thimble into a ſhield. He was an apprentice to a taylor in this city; was preſſed for a ſoldier, and by his ſpirit roſe to the higheſt commands in foreign parts. He ſignalized himſelf particularly in the command of the army of Galaeacca, or Galeazzo, duke of Milan; married the daughter of Barnabas, the duke's brother; died full of years and glory, at Florence, in 1394; where his figure, on horſeback, painted al freſco on the walls of the cathedral, by the celebrated Paolo Uccelli, is ſtill to be ſeen: beneath is this inſcription, ‘JOHANNES ACUTUS, eques Britannicus, aetatis ſuae cautiſſimus et rei militiaris peritiſſimus, habitus eſt. PAULI UCCELLI OPUS *.’ —It is engraven among the works of the Society of Antiquaries, with the date of 1436, which probably refers to the death of the artiſt; and was a poſthumous addition.

SIR Ralph Blackwall was ſaid to be his fellow-apprentice,SIR RALPH BLACKWALL. and to have been knighted for his valour by Edward III. But he followed his trade, married his maſter's daughter, and, as we have ſaid before, founded the hall which bears his name .

GENERAL Elliot's regiment of light horſe, raiſed in our days, was formed out of the choice ſpirits of the trade, and performed prodigies of valour, worthy of their predeceſſor in arms, the great Johannes Acutus.

JOHN SPEED was a Cheſhire taylor, and free of this company.JOHN SPEED. [404] His merit as a Britiſh hiſtorian and antiquary is indiſputable. The plans he has left us (now invaluable) of our antient caſtles, and of our cities, ſhew equal ſkill and induſtry. Nor muſt we be ſilent of his geographical labors, which, conſidering the confined knowlege of the times, are far from being deſpicable.

JOHN STOW.THE famous London antiquary John Stow, born in London about the year 1525, ought to have the lead among thoſe of our capital: he likewiſe was a taylor. There is not one who has followed him with equal ſteps, or who is not obliged to his black letter labors. In his induſtrious and long life (for he lived till the year 1605) he made vaſt collections, as well for the hiſtory and topography of his native city, as for the hiſtory of England. Numbers of facts, in the intereſting period in which he lived, he ſpeaks of from his own knowlege; or of earlier matters, from books long ſince loſt. Multitudes of the houſes of our antient nobility, exiſting in his time, are mentioned by him, and many of them in the moſt deſpicable parts of the town.

BENJAMIN ROBINS.THE late Benjamin Robins was the ſon of a taylor at Bath. He united the powers of the ſword and the pen. His knowlege in tactics was equal to that of any perſon of his age: and by his compilation of lord Anſon's voyage, he proved himſelf not inferior in elegance of ſtyle.

ROBERT HILL.ROBERT HILL, taylor of Buckingham, was the firſt Hebraean of his time: a knowlege acquired in the moſt preſſing poverty; and the cares of his profeſſion, to maintain (for a moſt excellent man he was) his large family. The Reverend Mr. Spence did not think it beneath him to write his life, and point him out to the public as a meritorious object of charity; and to form a parallel [405] between him and the celebrated Magliabecchi, librarian to the great duke of Tuſcany *.

IT was one of this meek profeſſion, actuated by the religion of meekneſs, who firſt ſuggeſted the pious project of aboliſhing the ſlave trade. Thomas Woolman, a quaker, and taylor, of New Jerſey, was firſt ſtruck with the thought, that engaging in the traffic of the human ſpecies was incompatible with the ſpirit of the Chriſtian religion. He publiſhed many tracts againſt this unhappy ſpecies of commerce: he argued againſt it in public and private: he made long journies for the ſake of talking to individuals on the ſubject; and was careful, himſelf, not to countenance ſlavery, by the uſe of thoſe conveniences which were provided by the labor of ſlaves. In the courſe of a viſit to England, he went to York, in the ſame year ſickened of the ſmall-pox, and died October 7th, in ſure and certain hopes of that reward which Heaven will beſtow on the ſincere philanthropiſt.

In this ſtreet alſo ſtands the South-Sea houſe, SOUTH-SEA HOUSE. the place in which the company did buſineſs, when it had any to tranſact. It was firſt eſtabliſhed in 1711, for the purpoſe of an excluſive trade to the South-Seas; and for the ſupplying Spaniſh America with negroes. In the year 1720, by the villainy of the directors, it became the moſt notorious bubble ever heard of in any kingdom. Imaginary fortunes of millions were graſped at: a luxury introduced as great as if theſe ſchemes had been realized. At length the deception was diſcovered, and the iniquitous contrivers detected and brought to puniſhment; many with infamy, by being expelled the houſe , [406] others ſuffered in their purſes *, but none in a manner adequate to their crimes, which brought utter ruin on thouſands.

AMONG the multitude of bubbles, which knaves, encouraged by the folly of the times, were encouraged to ſet up, were the following moſt laughable:

Inſurance againſt Divorces.
A ſcheme to learn men to caſt nativities.
Making Deal-boards of Saw-duſt.
Making Butter from Beech trees.
A flying Engine, (now exemplified in Balloons.)
A ſweet way of emptying Neceſſaries.

DRAPERS HALL.I RETURN through Threadneedle-ſtreet into the Broad ſtreet. In Throgmorton-ſtreet, near its junction with Broad-ſtreet, ſtands Drapers Hall. Thomas Cromwel, earl of Eſſex, built a magnificent houſe on its ſite: he ſhewed very little ſcruples in invading the rights of his neighbors to enlarge his domain. Stow mentions his own father as a ſufferer; for the earl arbitrarily looſened from its place a houſe which ſtood in Stow's garden, placed it on rollers, and had it carried twenty-two feet farther off, without giving the leaſt notice: and no one dared to complain . The manner of removing this houſe, ſhews what miſerable tenements a certain rank of people had, which could, like the houſes in Moſcow, be ſo eaſily conveyed from place to place. After Cromwel's fall, the houſe and gardens were bought by the Drapers company. The houſe was deſtroyed in the great fire, but rebuilt, for the uſe [407] of their company, in a magnificent manner. This was the fartheſt limits of the fire northward, as Allhallows church, in Fenchurch-ſtreet, was to the eaſt.

IN the hall, a very elegant room, is a portrait of the firſt mayor,PORTRAITS. of London, Fitz-alwin, a half length. I need not ſay a fictitious likeneſs. In his days, I doubt whether the artiſts equalled in any degree the worſt of our modern ſign-painters.

AT one end of the room is a large picture of Mary Stuart, with her hand upon her ſon James I. a little boy in a rich veſt; her dreſs is black, her hair light-colored. I never ſaw her but in dark hair; perhaps ſhe varied her locks. This could not be drawn from the life: for ſhe never ſaw her ſon after he was a year old. Theſe portraits are engraven by Bartolozzi.

PORTRAITS of Sir Joſeph Sheldon, mayor in 1677, and of Sir Robert Clayton, mayor in 1680. Sir Robert was well deſerving of this public proof of eſteem: a great benefactor to Chriſt-church hoſpital, and again to that of St. Thomas in Southwark. He is finely painted, ſeated in a chair.

THE Drapers were incorporated in 1430. The art of weaving woollen cloth was only introduced in 1360, by the Dutch and Flemings: but, as it was long permitted to export our wool, and receive it again manufactured into cloth, the cloth trade made little progreſs in England till the reign of queen Elizabeth *, who may be ſaid to have been the foundreſs of the wealthy loom, as of many other good things in this kingdom.

ON the weſt ſide of the adjacent Broad-ſtreet ſtood the houſe of the Auguſtines, AUGUSTINES. founded in 1253 by Humphry Bohun earl of [408] Hereford, for friars heremites of that order. The church falling into ruin, was rebuilt by Humphry, one of his deſcendants, earl of Hereford, who was buried here in 1361. Numbers of perſons of rank were alſo interred here, from the opinion of the peculiar ſanctity thoſe mendicants filled this earth with. Here lay Edmund Guy de Meric, earl of St. Paul. This nobleman was ſent over by Charles VI. of France, on a complimentary viſit to Richard II. and his queen. He inſinuated himſelf ſo gready into the king's favor, as to become a chief confident: inſomuch that, by the advice of St. Paul, he was guilty of that violent action, the murder of his factious uncle, the duke of Gloceſter *. Lucie, wife of Edmund Holland, lord admiral, and one of the heirs and daughter of Barnaby lord of Milan. She left great legacies to the church, in particular to the canons of our lady de la Scala, at Milan.

RICHARD FITZALAN, the great earl of Arundel, beheaded in 1397 at Tower Hill. John Vere, earl of Oxford, a ſtrong friend to the houſe of Lancaſter, beheaded by the cruel Edward, in 1463, at the ſame place, with his ſon and ſeveral others. Numbers alſo of the barons who fell in Barnet-field, found here a place of interment. Edward Stafford, duke of Buckingham, victim, in 1521, to the pride of cardinal Wolſey, choſe this holy ground; as did multitudes of others, recorded in the Survaie of John Stow .

IN the ſucceſsful cruizes made by the Engliſh, in the year 1545, about three hundred French ſhips were taken; Henry converted the conventual churches into ſo many warehouſes for the cargoes. [409] This and the Black-friars he filled with herrings and other fiſh, and the Grey-friars were filled with wine *.

AT the diſſolution, great part of the houſe, cloiſters,WINCHESTER-HOUSE. and gardens were granted to William lord St. John, afterwards marquis of Wincheſter, and lord treaſurer. On the ſite he built Wincheſter-place, a magnificent houſe, where Wincheſter-ſtreet now ſtands. The weſt end of the church was in 1551 granted to John a Laſco for the uſe of the Germans, and other fugitive Proteſtants, and afterwards to the Dutch as a preaching-place. Part alſo was converted into a glaſs-houſe for Venice glaſs, in which Venetians were employed in every branch of this manufacture. They were patronized by the duke of Buckingham. Howel, the celebrated author of the Letters, was ſteward to the manufacture, but was obliged to quit his office, not being able to endure the heat. He had been at Venice in 1621 , probably to pry into the ſecrets of the art, and to engage workmen. This place was afterwards converted into Pinners-hall, or the hall of the company of Pin-makers.

THE other part the marquis reſerved for the purpoſe of ſtowing corn, coal, and other things. His ſon ſold the noble monuments of the dead, the paving-ſtones, and many other materials, which had coſt thouſands, for a hundred pounds, and converted the building into ſtables for his horſes . The ſteeple was ſtanding in the year 1600. It was ſo beautiful, that the mayor and ſeveral reſpectable citizens petitioned the marquis that it might not be [410] pulled down; but their petition was rejected, and this fine ornament of the city demoliſhed *.

BEHIND this church, cloſe to London wall, ſtood the Papey, a fraternity of St. Charilibis and St. John the evangeliſt, for Papeys, or poor infirm prieſts, founded in 1430 by certain chauntry prieſts. It was a numerous ſociety, deſigned to relieve any of its members, who by lameneſs or illneſs were reduced to diſtreſs or poverty, whether they were brothers or ſiſters. The church of St. Auguſtine Papey belonged to this fraternity. Theſe prieſts, the brotherhood of threeſcore prieſts of Leaden-hall, and the company of pariſh clerks, who were ſkilled in ſinging diriges and funeral office, were accuſtomed to attend the ſolemn burials of the rich or great. Theſe are frequently repreſented on the ſides of antient tombs, and were called pleureurs, weepers, and mourners. This houſe became, after the ſuppreſſion, the habitation of Sir Francis Walſingham.

IN Wincheſter-ſtreet ſtood alſo a great houſe, called the Spaniſh ambaſſador's, which was occupied by Sir James Houblon, knight and alderman: and at the ſame period it was the reſidence of ſeveral of our moſt eminent merchants.

SIR THOMAS GRESHAM'S HOUSE.TO the eaſt ſide of the ſame ſtreet, ſtood the houſe of our firſt of merchants, Sir Thomas Greſham; originally built with brick and timber, and fronting to Biſhopſgate-ſtreet. By his will he appointed four lecturers in divinity, aſtronomy, muſic, and geometry, and three readers in civil law, phyſic, and rhetoric, each with a ſalary of fifty pounds a year, payable out of the rent iſſuing out of the Royal Exchange. This houſe was the place where the profeſſors [411] had their apartments, and where the lectures were to be read; which were begun in 1597, but they are now quite deſerted. This aroſe in a great degree from the inſtitution of the ROYAL SOCIETY: the meetings of which were for a conſiderable time held here.

THE origin of that reſpectable body was from the meeting of a few illuſtrious perſons at the lodgings of doctor Wilkins, ORIGIN OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY. afterwards biſhop of Cheſter, and others worthy of record, doctor Seth Ward, afterwards biſhop of Saliſbury, Mr. BOYLE, Sir William Petty, and the doctors Wallis, Goddard, Willis, and Bathurſt, Sir Chriſtopher Wren, and a few more. In 1658, they aſſembled in Greſham college, by permiſſion of the profeſſors of the foundation of Sir Thomas Greſham; and on the Reſtoration were incorporated by royal charter. A moſt inſtructive and well-founded Muſeum was eſtabliſhed here in 1677, by Henry Colwall, ITS MUSEUM. conſiſting of natural and artificial curioſities, collected with great expence and judgment. The ſociety had a benefit never known at any other time, the aſſiſtance of the great Mr. BOYLE, the moſt accompliſhed, moſt learned, and moſt religious virtuoſo, who pointed out the proper objects of their collection, and gave them the moſt finiſhed inſtructions * for procuring them from every quarter of the globe. At that period there were, in both the Indies, perſons capable of underſtanding, and purſuing with ſucceſs, the plan laid down for them at home. It was the good fortune of the Muſeum to have, co-exiſtent with its formation, a philoſopher [412] for its Curator, fully qualified to deſcribe its various articles. Doctor Nehemiah Grew not only performed that part, but illuſtrated every one, in caſes where the ſubject admitted, with the moſt learned and pertinent remarks. He publiſhed his Muſeum Regalis Societatis in 1681, and dedicated it to the founder, Mr. Colwall, at the expence of whom the plates were engraven. It is a work equal to the Muſeum Wormianum, and any other admired foreign performance of that age. Its defects ariſe only from the want of ſyſtem, the misfortune of the time; for our RAY had not then cleared the rich ore of Natural Hiſtory from the ſurrounding rubbiſh. About the year 1711, the Society removed from hence to Crane-court in Fleet-ſtreet. For numbers of years the Muſeum was neglected. My reſpected friend, the honourable Daines Barrington, with moſt diſintereſted zeal, undertook the reſtoring it, as far as the ravages of time would permit. This he did in the moſt effectual manner; and enriched it with a number of new ſpecimens, eſpecially from our late colonies: it being his deſign to have formed it into a repoſitory of every thing relative to the natural hiſtory of Great Britain and its dependencies: a moſt noble plan, and worthy of being carried into full execution. By ſingular chance, Greſham college eſcaped the flames in 1666; but I believe very little of the original houſe remains: it having been moſtly rebuilt in 1601, poſſibly after the original deſign; the arcades being adapted for the reception of the numbers of commercial and other followers of ſo univerſal a merchant as Sir Thomas Greſham.

EXCISE-OFFICE.THIS college has been pulled down within my memory; and the Exciſe-office, a building of moſt magnificent ſimplicity, has [413] roſe in its place. The payment into this office, from the 5th of January, 1786, to the 5th of January, 1787, was not leſs than five millions, five hundred and thirty-one thouſand, one hundred and fourteen pounds, ſix ſhillings, and ten pence halfpenny. Happy for us that our wealth keeps pace with our luxury!

THE houſe known by the name of Croſbie-houſe, CROSBIE-HOUSE. ſtood on the oppoſite ſide of Biſhopſgate-ſtreet, and was another magnificent ſtructure, built by Sir John Croſbie, ſheriff in 1470, on ground leaſed to him by Alice Aſhfield, prioreſs of St. Helen's. In this houſe Richard duke of Gloceſter lodged * after he had conveyed his nephews to the Tower, and was meditating the deſtruction of the poor innocents. The hall, miſcalled Richard III's chapel, is ſtill very entire; a beautiful gothic building, with a bow-window on one ſide; the roof is timber, and much to be admired. At preſent, this magnificent room is occupied by a packer.

HENRY VIII. made a grant of it to Anthonio Bonvica, a rich Italian merchant . Henry was a great favorer of the merchants of this nation, for the ſake of the ‘magnificent ſilks, velvets, tiſſues of gold, jewels, and other luxuries, (as he expreſſes it) for the pleaſure of us, and of our deareſt wyeff, the quene .’ In the reign of Elizabeth, it ſeems appropriated to foreign ambaſſadors: here was lodged the ambaſſador of France, and again the ambaſſador of Denmark §. The ſite of this houſe is ſtill known by the name of Croſbie-ſquare.

[414]THE houſe of that great merchant Sir Paul Pindar ſtands in this ſtreet: it is eaſily known by the bow, and vaſt extent of windows along the front. Sir Paul was early diſtinguiſhed by that frequent cauſe of promotion, the knowlege of languages. He was put apprentice to an Italian maſter, travelled much, and was appointed ambaſſador to the Grand Seignor by James I; in which office he gained great credit by extending the Engliſh commerce in the Turkiſh dominions. He brought over with him a diamond valued at £. 30,000; the king wiſhed to buy it on credit, but this the ſenſible merchant declined: but favored his majeſty with the loan on gala days: his unfortunate ſon became the purchaſer. Sir Paul was appointed farmer of the cuſtoms by James; and frequently ſupplied that monarch's wants, as well as thoſe of his ſucceſſor. He was eſteemed at one time worth £. 236,000, excluſive of bad debts, in the year 1639. His charities were very great: he expended nineteen thouſand pounds in the repairs of St. Paul's cathedral *. He was ruined by his connections with his unfortunate monarch; and, if I remember right, underwent impriſonment for debt. It is ſaid that Charles owed him, and the reſt of the old commiſſioners of the cuſtoms, £. 300,000; for the ſecurity of which, in 1649, they offered the parlement £.100,000; but the propoſal was rejected . He died Auguſt 22, 1650, aged 84. He left his affairs in ſuch a perplexed ſtate, that his executor, William Toomes, unable to bear the diſappointment, deſtroyed [415] himſelf; and moſt deſervedly underwent the ignominy of the, now, almoſt obſolete verdict of Felo de ſe.

HELENA, the mother of Conſtantine the Great,PRIORY OF ST. HELEN'S; OR ST. HELEN'S THE LESS. and a canonized ſaint, had, a little to the eaſt of Croſbie-ſquare, a church dedicated to her in very early times. In 1210, a priory of Benedictine nuns was founded by a goldſmith, William Fitz-William, dedicated to the Holy Croſs, and its inventreſs Helena, the piiſſima et venerabilis AUGUSTA. Its revenues, according to Dugdale, were £. 314. 2 s. 6 d. Henry granted the ſite to Mr. Richard Cromwel, alias Williams; and on the nuns hall was built the Leather-ſellers Hall. This company was incorporated in the reign of Richard II. They flouriſhed greatly, in particular, in the time of queen Elizabeth, when they had conſiderable commerce in ſkins from Barbary and Ruſſia, and made great profits from the exportation of the manufactured leather.

NORTH-EAST of Threadneedle-ſtreet, CHURCH OF ST. HELEN'S THE GREAT. ſtands the antient church known by the name of St. Helen's the Great; in it are numbers of curious tombs: they fortunately eſcaped the ravages of the great fire. That of the great benefactor to the city, Sir Thomas Greſham, TOMB OF SIR T. GRESHAM. claims the firſt notice: it is altar-faſhioned, with a black ſlab on the top; the ſides fluted, and of coloured marble. So great a name wanted not the proclamation of an epitaph, ſo it is entirely without inſcription.

A moſt magnificent tomb of Sir William Pickering, SIR WILLIAM PICKERING. who died in London, at Pickering-houſe, in 1574, aged 58. He lies recumbent, in rich gilt and painted armour, ſmall ruff, ſhort hair, trunk breeches; the mat he reſts on is finely cut. He had ſerved four princes: Henry VIII, in the field; Edward VI, as ambaſſador to [416] France; queen Mary, in Germany; and finally, queen Elizabeth. ‘Elizabeth, (ſays his epitaph) principi omnium illuſtriſſimae ſummis officiis devotiſſimus.’ He is ſaid to have aſpired at the poſſeſſion of her perſon *.

WILLIAM BOND.A TOMB of William Bond, who died in 1576, a merchant adventurer, and the moſt famous of his age for voyages by land and ſea. He, his wife, and ſeven children, are repreſented kneeling. The lady is diſtinguiſhed by her vaſt ſleeves.

THEIR ſon Martin took a military turn: he was captain in the camp at Tilbury, in 1588, and chief captain in the train-bands till his death. He is repreſented in armour, in his tent; ſoldiers are ſeen on the outſide, and his ſervant waiting with his horſe.

SIR JULIUS CESAR.I OMIT many ſplendid monuments, which record that the poſſeſſors were good men and good citizens. That of Sir Julius Adelmar Ceſar, who died a ſuperannuated maſter of the Rolls in 1636, is very ſingular. His epitaph is cut on a black ſlab in form of a piece of parchment with a ſeal appendant, by which he gives his bond to Heaven, to reſign his life willingly whenever it ſhould pleaſe GOD to call him. In cujus rei teſtimonium manum meam et ſigillum appoſui.

Figure 2. Hall in Croſbie Place

HERE is alſo another tomb, ſeemingly belonging to ſome perſons of rank: it is of an altar form; on it lie recumbent two alabaſter figures, one of a beardleſs man, with his hair cut ſhort and round; over his ſhoulders is a robe, a fine collar round his neck, his body armed, and a griffin at his feet. By him lies his lady.

I NOW viſit the third ſtreet which branches from the Poultry, LOMBARD-STREET. that which took its name from the Lombards, the great money-changers and uſurers of early times. They came out of Italy into our kingdom before the year 1274 ; at length their extortions became ſo great, that Edward III. ſeized on their eſtates; perhaps the neceſſity of furniſhing him with money for his Flemiſh expedition, might have urged him to this ſtep. They ſeem quickly to have repaired their loſs; for complaint was ſoon after made againſt them, for perſiſting in their practices. They were ſo opulent in the days of Henry VI. as to be able to furniſh him with money, but they took care to get the cuſtoms mortgaged to them by way of ſecurity . In this ſtreet they continued till the reign of queen Elizabeth; and to this day it is filled with the ſhops of numbers of eminent bankers.

[418]THE ſhop of the great Sir Thomas Greſham ſtood in this ſtreet; it is now held by Meſſrs Martin, bankers, who are ſtill in poſſeſſion of the original ſign of that illuſtrious perſon, the Graſshopper. Was it mine, that honorable memorial of ſo great a predeceſſor ſhould certainly receive the moſt oſtentatious ſituation I could find.

POST-OFFICE.THE Poſt-office, which gives wings to the extenſion of commerce, ſtands in Lombard-ſtreet. The office of chief poſtmaſter was erected in 1551 *, but we are not told how this branch of buſineſs was managed; however it was not regularly eſtabliſhed till the year 1644, when Mr. Edmund Prideaux, the inland poſtmaſter, was ſuppoſed to collect about five thouſand pounds a year.

IN 1654, the parlement farmed the poſt-office to a Mr. Manly, for £. 100,000. This farm included the poſtage of England, Scotland, and Ireland *.

ON the Reſtoration, a general Poſt-office was eſtabliſhed in London, to be under the direction of a poſtmaſter to be appointed by the king; and with powers to appoint poſt-houſes in ſuch parts of the country which were unprovided, both on the poſt and by-roads.

IN 1663, when peace and a ſettled government was reſtored, they were farmed to Daniel O'Neil, Eſq for £. 21,500 *.

IN 1674, they were raiſed to £. 43,000; and in 1685, the groſs was eſtimated at £. 65,000 *.

AT the Revolution, the poſt amounted to £. 76,319.

IN 1699, to £. 90,504 *.

[419]IN 1710, to £. 111,461. In 1715, the groſs of the inland poſt came to £. 145,227.

 £.s.d.
In 1722, the groſs amount was201, 80418
Deduct for franked covers33,397123
— for expence in management70,39615
Net produce, Michaelmas 1722,98,01080

IN 1744, to £. 198,226; but the total of the inland and foreign offices was, in that year, £. 235,490.

THE privilege of franking was firſt clamed by the commons in 1660, and allowed to both houſes by the crown in the following year. The abuſe muſt have been very great, it being aſſerted, that in 1763, the loſs by that privilege amounted to £. 170,700. I have ſeen in ſome private notes, that the groſs of the year's revenue was £. 432,048; and from better authority, that the net income of 1763, the year previous to the firſt regulation of franking, was £. 97,833; which, in 1764, increaſed to £. 116,182.

IN the year ending in Auguſt, 1784, the net revenue amounted to £. 159,625. The act for the ſecond regulation took place in that month; in the following year it increaſed to £. 196,513, and in the ſucceeding, to £. 261,409; and in the laſt (1788) by reaſon of our national proſperity, to £. 280,000.

BEFORE the great fire, on the ſite of the preſent office ſtood a much-frequented tavern. When it was deſtroyed by that calamity, the convivial Sir Robert Viner replaced it with a large houſe for his own habitation. Sir Robert, during his mayoralty, in 1675, was honored with the preſence of his monarch, Charles II; his [420] majeſty was for retiring, after ſtaying the uſual time, but Sir Robert, filled with good liquor and loyalty, laid hold of the king, and ſwore, ‘Sir, you ſhall take t'other bottle. The airy monarch looked kindly at him over the ſhoulder, and with a ſmile, and graceful air, repeated this line of the old ſong: ‘"He that's drunk is as great as a king,"’ and immediately turned back, and complied with his landlord *.’

IN the ſame ſtreet, towards Birchin Lane, ſtood the houſe of William de la Pole , created in France, by Edward III. knight-banneret, with allowance out of the cuſtoms of Hull for the ſupport of his dignity . He was a great merchant, and, being very opulent, uſed to ſupply the king's pecuniary wants. He was at the ſame time the King's merchant; an office that gave him the lucrative privilege of ſupplying his maſter with different ſorts of merchandize, and alſo with money. The office ſeems to have been continued to later days, under another name: Henry VIII. had his King's factor, and Sir Thomas Greſham bore the title of the Queen's. Richard (William's elder brother, a merchant at Hull) had the ſame employ under Edward III, who calls him dilectus mercator Ricardus de la Pole Pincerna noſter .

FROM William ſprung a numerous race of nobility, diſtinguiſhed by their ambition and unfortunate ends. His ſon Michael [421] was created earl of Suffolk, yet continued in his office of King's merchant, and lived in his father's houſe *. He at length became lord high chancellor; but, being accuſed of embezzling the public money, and divers other crimes, was baniſhed the kingdom, and died at Paris in 1389, of a broken heart. His ſon Michael was reſtored, and died of a flux at the ſiege of Harfleur, in Sept. 1415; and in the very following month, his ſon and ſucceſſor, another Michael, fell in the battle of Agincourt. His brother William ſucceeded, and was afterwards created marquis, and then duke of Suffolk. He was the favorite of the ſpirited Margaret of Anjou. He was of diſtinguiſhed abilities, but by his inſolence enraged the nobility ſo greatly, that on an accuſation of his being the cauſe of the loſs of France, they baniſhed him the kingdom. On his paſſage to Calais, he was ſeized by a veſſel ſent expreſsly to intercept him, and was brought into Dover, beheaded by the captain of the ſhip in the cock-boat, without ceremony, and his body flung upon the ſands, where it was found by his chaplain, and buried at Wingfield in Suffolk. The nobility dreaded his return, therefore took this method to free themſelves from ſo formidable an enemy . John, his ſon, ſucceeded him. Finally, his ſon Edmund, who was condemned for a murder in the time of Henry VII, received his pardon: but in the following reign was, in 1513, executed for treaſon; but his chief crime with that tyrant ſeems his relation to the houſe of [422] York, his mother being ſiſter to Edward IV. The venerable Margaret counteſs of Saliſbury was barbarouſly brought to the block for the ſame reaſon; her ſon, cardinal Pole, would not have been ſpared, could Henry have got him into his power. Henry Pole, lord Montacute, ſuffered for correſponding with him: and thus ended this ill-fated race.

DENMARK-HOUSE.In Fenchurch-ſtreet, a continuation of the former, ſtood Denmark-houſe. In it was lodged the ambaſſador ſent, in 1557, as Holinſhed expreſſes it, from the emperor of Cathaie, Muſcovia, and Ruſſeland. This was in conſequence of the new diſcovery of the White Sea by Chancellor: for till that time Ruſſia was quite impervious by any other way. The merchants were well acquainted with the importance of the new commerce: they met him at Tottenham with all the ſplendor that was likely to make an impreſſion on the mind of a Barbarian. They were dreſſed in velvet coats, and rich chains of gold, and bore all his expences. Lord Montacute, with the queen's penſioners, met him at Iſlington; and the lord mayor and aldermen, in ſcarlet robes, received him at Smithfield, and from thence rode with him to this houſe, then "Maiſter Dimmock's, in Fenchurch Street *." Our Ruſſian company was formed three years previous to the arrival of this ambaſſador, but its commerce was carried on with redoubled ſucceſs after the Ruſſians were thus made acquainted with our wealth and power.

HUDSON'S-BAY HOUSE.IN this ſtreet is the Hudſon's-bay Houſe, the vaſt repoſitory of the northern furs of America, which are lodged here till they are ſold, and exported to various parts of the world, even to the diſtant China. [423] In this hall is a vaſt pair of horns of the Mooſe Deer, weighing fifty-ſix pounds; and in another room, the picture of an Elk, the European Morſe, killed in the preſence of Charles XI. of Sweden, which weighed twelve hundred and twenty-nine pounds.

I SHOULD ſpeak with the prejudices of a true Engliſhman, was I to dignify the Thames with the title of the chief of rivers. I muſt qualify my patriotiſm with its juſt clame to that of firſt of iſland-rivers. But in reſpect to our rival kingdom, it muſt yield the palm to the Garonne, only we muſt not make compariſon of length of courſe. The contracted ſpace of our iſland muſt limit that ſpecies of grandeur; but there are none, in any part of Europe, which can boaſt of more utility in bringing farther from the ocean the largeſt commercial ſhips; nor are there any which can bring the riches of the univerſe to their very capital. The ſhips of the Seine diſcharge themſelves at Havre; thoſe of the Loire reach no farther than Port-Lannai, far below its emporium Nantes; and the Garonne conveys no farther than Pouillac the full-loaden ſhips: there they are obliged to be eaſed of part of their cargoes, before they can reach the opulent Bourdeaux.

THE Thames riſes beneath Sufferton-hill, juſt within the borders of Gloceſterſhire, a little to the ſouth-weſt of Cirenceſter, which it inſtantly quits, and enters for a ſhort ſpace into the county of Wilts, bends a little into it, and re-enters its parent province near Lechlade, where (by means of locks) it firſt becomes navigable, and, as is ſaid, for barges of ſeventy tons. It here leaves Gloceſterſhire, and becomes the whole ſouthern boundary of Oxfordſhire, or the northern of Berkſhire, and from thence is the ſouthe [...]n limit of Buckinghamſhire. At Great Marlow, in that [424] county, is the laſt lock; from thence to the ſea it requires no farther an to aid its navigation. At a ſmall diſtance from Windſor it divides Middleſex from Surry; juſt above Kingſton it feels the laſt feeble efforts of a tide;TIDE. from thence is a moſt important increaſe: juſt below London-bridge, eighteen feet; and at Deptford, twenty. The preceding, brings ſhips of three hundred and fifty tons, drawing ſixteen feet water, to the cuſtom-houſe; the laſt, thoſe of a thouſand tons, even the largeſt, drawing twenty-three feet, which import the treaſures of India. This noble river continues freſh as low as Woolwich, WHERE BRACKISH. and even there is brackiſh only at ſpring-tides. Thus at our capital it is perfectly pure, ſalubrious, and ſubſervient to vaſt articles of commerce, with which that ſtupendous city abounds.

[...] LENGTH.THE whole courſe of the Thames, to its mouth, is conſiderably above two hundred miles. I contract its length very conſiderably, in compariſon of the uſual eſtimation,ITS PROPER MOUTH. for I limit its mouth to the ſpot between the weſt end of the iſle of Grain, in Kent, and the eaſtern part of that of Canvey in Eſſex. From thoſe plates to the Naze in the latter county, and the North Foreland in that of Kent (which have hitherto been conſidered as its entrance) it ceaſes to flow in a ſingle channel; it becomes a vaſt eſtuary filled with ſandbanks, many of which appear above water at the receſs of the tides.

THE whole courſe of the river is through a country which furniſhes every idea of opulence, fertility, and rural elegance: meadows rich in hay, or covered with numerous herds; gentle riſings, and hanging woods; embelliſhed with palaces, magnificent ſeats, [425] or beautiful villas, a few the hereditary manſions of our antient gentry, but the greater part property transferred, by the effects of vice and diſſipation, to the owners of honeſt wealth, acquired by commerce, or induſtrious profeſſions, or the dear purchaſe of cankering rapine. Its courſe furniſhes few ſublime ſcenes, excepting the high chalky cliffs near Henley; all its banks are replete with native ſoftneſs, improved by art and the fulleſt cultivation.

I DO not recollect that it flows in any part over a rocky channel; its bottom is either gravelly or clayey, according to the nature of the ſoil through which it meanders. This gives growth to the abundance of weeds with which it is in many parts filled; and theſe prove the ſafety of multitudes of fiſhes,FISH. and preſerve them from being extirpated by the unbridled ravages of the poachers. The Thames has, between its ſource and Woolwich, every ſpecies found in the Britiſh rivers, except the BURBOT, the LOCHE, the COBITIS TAENIA, or SPINY LOCHE, of late years diſcovered in the river Trent, and the ſmall ſpecies of SALMON, the SAMLET. The SALMON, and the SHAD, are fiſhes of paſſage; the firſt appears in the river about the middle of February, is in great eſtimation, and ſells at a vaſt price; their capture is prohibited from the 24th of Auguſt to the 11th of November. The SHAD arrives the latter end of May, or beginning of June, and is a very coarſe fiſh; it ſometimes grows to the weight of eight pounds, but the uſual ſize is from four to five. This is the fiſh which Du Hamel deſcribes as the true Aloſe of the French *; but the fiſhermen of the Thames have another they call Allis, much leſſer than the [426] former, with a row of ſpots from the gills along the ſides, juſt beneath the back, more or leſs in number: this the French call Le Feinte *. I ſuſpect that the name Allis is miſapplied to this ſpecies, and that it ought to be applied to the great or common Shad, being an evident corruption from the French name Aloſe; is the ſame with that of the Severn, but is rarely taken here: but neither of them are admitted to good tables.

L [...]E [...] LAMPREY, ITS [...]T USE.THE leſſer Lamprey, the Petromyzon fluviatilis of LINNAEUS, is a ſmall fiſh of great and national importance, and is taken in amazing quantities between Batterſea Reach and Taplow Mills (a ſpace of about fifty miles) and ſold to the Dutch for the Cod and other fiſheries; 450,000 have been ſold in one ſeaſon for that purpoſe; the price has been forty ſhillings the thouſand: this year the Dutch have given three pounds, and the Engliſh from five to eight pounds; the former having prudently contracted for three years at a certain price. Formerly the Thames has furniſhed from a million to twelve hundred thouſand annually.—An attempt was lately made in parlement to fling the Turbot fiſhery entirely into Britiſh hands,OF THE TURBOT FISHERY. by laying ten ſhillings a ton duty on every foreign veſſel importing Turbots into Great Britain: but the plan was found to be derived from ſelfiſh motives, and even on national injuſtice: the far greater quantity of Turbots being diſcovered to be taken on the coaſts of Holland and Flanders .

[427]THE fiſh of the Thames which come as low as London, and beyond it as far as the water is freſh, are the Barbel, (which is never ſeen below the bridge) a few Roach, and Dace, Bleak in great plenty, and Eels extend far down the river; ſmall Flounders are found as far as Fulham, brought up by the tides, and continue ſtationary.

I WILL conclude this account with the fine lines written by Sir John Denham on this our celebrated river; and in a manner worthy of the greatneſs of the ſubject:

MY eye deſcending from the hill ſurveys
Where THAMES among the wanton valleys ſtrays;
THAMES, the moſt lov'd of all the ocean's ſons
By his old fire, to his embraces runs,
Haſting to pay his tribute to the ſea,
Like mortal life to meet eternity,
Tho' with thoſe ſtreams he no reſemblance hold,
Whoſe foam is amber, and their gravel gold.
His genuine and leſs guilty wealth t' explore,
Search not his bottom, but ſurvey his ſhore;
O'er which he kindly ſpreads his ſpacious wing,
And hatches plenty for th' enſuing ſpring;
Nor then deſtroys it with too fond a ſtay,
Like mothers which their infants overlay;
Nor with a ſudden and impetuous wave,
Like profuſe kings, reſumes the wealth he gave:
No unexpected inundations ſpoil
The mower's hopes, nor mock the plowman's toil;
But godlike his unwearied bounty flows,
Firſt loves to do, then loves the good he does.
Nor are his bleſſings to his banks confin'd,
But free and common as the ſea or wind,
[428]When he to boaſt or to diſperſe his ſtores,
Full of the tributes of his grateful ſhores,
Viſits the world, and in his flying tow'rs
Brings home to us, and makes both Indies ours;
Finds wealth where 'tis, beſtows it where it wants,
Cities in deſerts, woods in cities plants:
So that to us nothing, no place is ſtrange,
While his fair boſom is the world's exchange.
O could I flow like thee, and make thy ſtream
My great example, as it is my theme!
Tho' deep, yet clear; tho' gentle, yet not dull;
Strong, without rage; without o'erflowing, full.
Heav'n her Eridanus no more ſhall boaſt,
Whoſe fame in thine, like leſſer currents, loſt.

Appendix A APPENDIX.

[429]

Appendix A.1 PAGE 165.

BEDFORD-ROW, in this neighborhood,BEDFORD-ROW. took its name from the uſes to which thoſe lands, and others adjacent, were bequeathed by Sir William Harpur, ſon of William Harpur, of Bedford; viz. to found a free and perpetual ſchool, in that his native place; for portioning poor maidens; for ſupporting poor children; and for maintaining the poor with the ſurplus; all of them inhabitants of the ſaid town. Part of the lands were of his own inheritance; part belonging to the Chartreux, at that time lately diſſolved. Some of the lands were loſt, others granted to Sir Thomas Fiſher, baronet, for other lands belonging to him; the remainder granted, in the year 1668, upon leaſe, by the corporation of Bedford, truſtees to the charity, for the purpoſes of building, for the term of forty-one years, at the yearly rent of ninety-nine years: and in 1684, the reverſion to Nicholas Barbon, D. D. for the further term of fifty-one years, at the rent of a hundred and fifty, on the expiration of the firſt leaſe. Bedford-ſtreet, Bedford-row and court, Princes-ſtreet, Theobald's-row, North-ſtreet, Eaſt-ſtreet, Lamb's-conduit-ſtreet, Queen-ſtreet, Eagle-ſtreet, Boſwel-court, and ſeveral other ſtreets, roſe in conſequence, by which the rents were moſt conſiderably increaſed. A ſuit aroſe, about the year 1725, between the warden and fellows of New College, and the corporation of Bedford, concerning the right of appointing the maſters to the ſchool, and their ſalaries. The ſame was decided, in 1725, in favor of the college; and that the corporation was to pay the head maſter [430] thirty pounds a year, and the uſher twenty; and the other charities to be paid proportionably to the revenues of the eſtate.

ON the expiration of the two leaſes, in 1760, the annual revenues ariſing from the rents were found to amount to £. 2,336. 17 s. and the houſes at will to £. 273. And it was found that improvements might be made which would increaſe the revenue ſo far as to make the whole amount to £. 3,000 a year. In fact, in 1788, they did amount to £. 2,917. 17 s.

AMONG other regulations, in conſequence of the increaſed revenue, by an act made about the year 1762, new houſes were directed to be built for the ſchoolmaſter, uſher, and writing-maſter. The head-maſter's ſalary to be augmented to £. 200 per ann.; the uſher's to £. 100; the writing-maſter's to £. 60. Towards the portioning of the poor maidens £. 800 was to be annually given; £. 600 to be annually given towards apprenticing poor children. And I might add ſeveral other particulars, which I omit, as not relative to the city, the ſubject of theſe ſheets.

Appendix A.2 PAGE 274.

[431]

PARAPHRASE of the 137th PSALM: alluding to the captivity and ill-treatment of the Welſh Bards by king Edward I. Vide E. Evans.

SAD near the willowy Thames we ſtood,
And curs'd th' inhoſpitable flood.
Tears, ſuch as Patriots weep, 'gan flow,
The ſilent eloquence of woe,
When Cambria ruſh'd into our mind,
And pity with juſt vengeance join'd;
Vengeance, to injur'd Cambria due,
And pity, O ye Bards! to you.
Silent, neglected, and unſtrung,
Our harps upon the willows hung,
That "ſoftly ſweet, in Cambrian meaſures,
"Us'd to ſooth our ſouls to pleaſures;"
When lo! th' inſulting ſoe appears,
And bids us dry our uſeleſs tears.
"Reſume your harps" (the Saxons cry)
"And change your grief to ſongs of joy;
"Such as old Talieſſin ſang,
"What time your native mountains rang
"With his rude ſtrains, and all around
"Seas, rivers, woods, return'd the ſound."
What! ſhall the Saxons hear us ſing?
With Cambrian ſtrains your vallies ring?
No—let old Conwy ceaſe to flow!
Back to her ſource Sabrina go!
Let huge Plin [...]mmon hide his head!
Or let the tyrant ſtrike me dead,
If I attempt to ſing a ſong,
Unmindful of my country's wrong!—
[432]What! ſhall an haughty king command
A Cambrian hymn, in a ſtrange land?
May my right hand firſt wither'd be,
Or e'er I touch a ſtring for thee,
Proud monarch! nay, may inſtant death
Arreſt my tongue, and ſtop my breath,
If I attempt to ſing a ſong,
Unmindful of my country's wrong!
Thou God of vengeance! doſt thou ſleep,
When thy inſulted Druids weep,
The victors' jeſt, the Saxons' ſcorn,
Unheard, unpity'd, and forlorn?
Bare thy red arm, thou God of ire,
And ſet their boaſted TOWER, on fire!—
Remember our inhuman foes,
When the firſt Edward furious roſe,
And, like a whirlwind's rapid ſway,
Swept armies, cities, bards away!
High on a rock, o'er Conwy's flood,
The laſt ſurviving poet ſtood,
And curs'd the tyrant as he paſs'd,
With cruel pomp, and murd'rous haſte.
What now avail our tuneful ſtrains,
'Midſt ſavage taunts and biting chains?
Say, will the lark, impriſon'd, ſing
So ſweet, as when on tow'ring wing
He wakes the ſongſters of the ſky,
And tunes his notes to liberty?
Ah no! the Cambrian lyre no more
Shall ſweetly ſound on Arvon's ſhore:
No more the SILVER HARP be won,
Ye Muſes, by your favorite ſon;
(Or I, ev'n I, by glory fir'd,
Had to the honor'd prize aſpir'd.)
[433]No more ſhall Mona's oaks be ſpar'd,
Nor Druids' circle be rever'd;
On Conwy's banks, and Menai's ſtreams,
The ſolitary bittern ſcreams;
Where Lewellyn kept his court,
Wolves and ill-omen'd birds reſort:
There oft', at midnight's ſilent hour,
Near yon ivy-mantled tow'r,
By the glow-worm's yellow fire,
Tuning his romantic lyre,
Gray's pale ſpectre ſeems to ſing—
"RUIN SEIZE THEE, RUTHLESS KING!"

Appendix A.3 A GENERAL BILL of all the CHRISTNINGS and BURIALS from December 11, 1787, to December 16, 1738. According to the Report made to the KING's Moſt Excellent Majeſty, by the Company of Pariſh Clerks of LONDON, &c.

[434]
  • St ALBAN in Wood-ſtreet Bur. 15
  • Alhallows Barkin Bur. 35
  • Alhallows in Bread-ſtreet Bur. 9
  • Alhallows the Great Bur. 39
  • Alhallows in Honey-lane
  • Alhallows the Leſs Bur. 7
  • Alhallows in Lombard ſtreet Bur. 9
  • Alhallows Staining Bur. 11
  • Alhallows on London Wall Bur. 23
  • St Alphage near Sion College Bur. 17
  • St Andrew Hubbard
  • St Andrew Underſhaft Bur. 13
  • St Andrew by the Wardrobe Bur. 23
  • St Ann within Alderſgate Bur. 33
  • St Ann in Black Friars Bur. 66
  • St Anthony, vulgarly Antholin Bur. 8
  • St Auguſtin, vulgarly Auſtin Bur. 13
  • St Bartholomew by Exchange Bur. 6
  • St Benedict, vulgarly Bennet Fink Bur. 11
  • St Bennet Gracechurch Bur. 9
  • St Bennet at Paul's Wharf Bur. 35
  • St Bennet Sherehog
  • St Botolph at Billingſgate Bur. 5
  • Chriſt Church Pariſh Bur. 115
  • St Chriſtopher's Pariſh
  • St Clement near Eaſtcheap Bur. 9
  • St Dionis Backchurch Bur. 15
  • St Dunſtan in the Eaſt Bur. 46
  • St Edmund the King Bur. 10
  • St Ethelburga's Pariſh Bur. 13
  • St Faith under St. Paul's Bur. 31
  • St Gabriel in Fenchurch-ſtreet Bur. 10
  • St George in Botolph-lane Bur. 7
  • St Gregory by St Paul's Bur. 56
  • St Helen near Biſhopſgate Bur. 9
  • St James in Duke's Place Bur. 7
  • St James at Garlickhith Bur. 8
  • St John Baptiſt by Dowgate Bur. 15
  • St John the Evangeliſt
  • St John Zachary Bur. 6
  • St Katherine Coleman Bur. 21
  • St Katherine Creechurch Bur. 34
  • St Laurence Jewry Bur. 19
  • St Laurence Pountney Bur. 11
  • St Leonard in Eaſtcheap Bur. 2
  • St Leonard in Foſter-lane
  • St Magnus by London Bridge Bur. 5
  • St Margaret in Lothbury Bur. 22
  • St Margaret Moſes
  • St Margaret in New Fiſh-ſtreet Bur. 6
  • St Margaret Pattens Bur. 1
  • St Martin in Ironmonger-lane Bur. 1
  • [435]St Martin within Ludgate Bur. 11
  • St Martin Orgars Bur. 6
  • St Martin Outwich Bur. 6
  • St Martin Vintrey Bur. 28
  • St Mary Abchurch Bur. 12
  • St Mary Aldermanbury Bur. 24
  • St Mary Aldermary Bur. 5
  • St Mary Le Bow in Cheapſide Bur. 19
  • St Mary Bothaw at Dowgate Bur. 2
  • St Mary Colechurch Bur. 1
  • St Mary Hill near Billingſgate Bur. 30
  • St Mary Magdalen in Milk-ſtreet
  • St Mary Magdalen Old Fiſh-ſtreet Bur. 27
  • St Mary Mounthaw Bur. 14
  • St Mary Somerſet Bur. 19
  • St Mary Staining
  • St Mary Woolchurch
  • St Mary Woolnoth Bur. 18
  • St Matthew in Friday-ſtreet Bur. 1
  • St Michael Baſſiſhaw Bur. 11
  • St Michael in Cornhill Bur. 9
  • St Michael in Crooked-lane Bur. 22
  • St Michael at Queenhith Bur. 31
  • St Michael Le Quern Bur. 1
  • St Michael Royal Bur. 6
  • St Michael in Wood-ſtreet
  • St Mildred in Bread-ſtreet Bur. 2
  • St Mildred in the Poultry Bur. 10
  • St Nicholas Acons Bur. 1
  • St Nicholas Coleabby Bur. 6
  • St Nicholas Olave Bur. 8
  • St Olave in Hart-ſtreet Bur. 38
  • St Olave in the Old Jewry Bur. 5
  • St Olave in Silver-ſtreet Bur. 18
  • St Pancras in Pancras-lane
  • St. Peter in Cheapſide Bur. 10
  • St Peter in Cornhill Bur. 16
  • St Peter near Paul's Wharf Bur. 12
  • St Peter Poor in Broad-ſtreet Bur. 8
  • St Stephen in Coleman-ſtreet Bur. 50
  • St Stephen in Walbrook Bur. 14
  • St Swithin at London Stone Bur. 7
  • St Thomas the Apoſtle Bur. 4
  • Trinity Pariſh Bur. 8
  • St Vedaſt, alias Foſter Bur. 10

Chriſtned in the 97 Pariſhes within the Walls, 1148. — Buried, 1446.

  • St Andrew in Holborn Bur. 760
  • St Bartholomew the Great Bur. 40
  • St Bartholomew the Leſs Bur. 11
  • St Botolph by Alderſgate Bur. 156
  • St Botolph by Aldgate Bur. 358
  • St Botolph without Biſhopſgate Bur. 306
  • St Bridget, vulgarly St Brides Bur. 175
  • St Dunſtan in the Weſt Bur. 104
  • St George in Southwark Bur. 298
  • St Giles by Cripplegate Bur. 230
  • St John in Southwark Bur. 355
  • St Olave in Southwark Bur. 320
  • [436]St Saviour in Southwark Bur. 439
  • St Sepulchre's Pariſh Bur. 332
  • St Thomas in Southwark Bur. 140
  • Trinity in the Minories Bur. 16

Chriſtned in the 16 Pariſhes without the Walls, 4791. — Buried, 4040.

  • St Ann in Middleſex Bur. 163
  • Chriſt Church in Surry Bur. 212
  • Chriſt Church in Middleſex Bur. 549
  • St D [...]ndan at Stepney Bur. 406
  • St George in Bloomſbury Bur. 222
  • St George in Middleſex Bur. 550
  • St George by Queen's ſquare Bur. 217
  • St Giles in the Fields Bur. 1180
  • St James at Clerkenwell Bur. 778
  • St John at Clerkenwell Bur. 56
  • St John at Hackney Bur. 233
  • St John at Wapping Bur. 127
  • St Katherine near the Tower Bur. 148
  • St Leonard in Shoreditch Bur. 750
  • St Luke in Middleſex Bur. 509
  • St Mary at Iſlington Bur. 220
  • St Mary at Lambeth Bur. 680
  • St Mary Magdalen Bermondſey Bur. 525
  • St Mary at Newington Bur. 366
  • St Mary at Rotherhith Bur. 216
  • St Mary at Whitechapel Bur. 748
  • St Matthew at Bethnal Green Bur. 149
  • St Paul at Shadwell Bur. 407

Chriſtned in the 23 Out-Pariſhes in Middleſex and Surry, 8980.— Buried, 9411.

  • St Ann in Weſtminſter Bur. 448
  • St Clement Danes Bur. 326
  • St George by Hanov [...]r-ſquare Bur. 1128
  • St James in Weſtminſter Bur. 838
  • St John Evangeliſt in Weſtminſter Bur. 152
  • St Margaret in Weſtminſter Bur. 766
  • St Martin in the Fields Bur. 858
  • St Mary Le Strand Bur. 98
  • The Precinct of the Savoy Bur. 69
  • St Paul in Covent Garden Bur. 117

Chriſtned in the 10 Pariſhes in the City and Liberties of Weſtminſter, 4640. —Buried, 4800.

The DISEASES and CASUALTIES this YEAR.
  • ABORTIVE and Stilborn 713
  • Abſceſs 11
  • Aged 1424
  • Ague 7
  • Apoplexy and Suddenly 229
  • Aſthma and Phthiſick 488
  • Bedridden 6
  • Bleeding 5
  • Bloody Flux 1
  • Burſten and Rupture 12
  • Cancer 76
  • Canker
  • Chicken Pox 2
  • Childbed 197
  • Cold 6
  • Colick, Gripes, and Twiſting of the Guts 14
  • Conſumption 5086
  • Convulſions 4485
  • Cough, and Hooping Cough 298
  • Diabetes
  • Dropſy 1021
  • Evil 11
  • Fever, Malignant Fever, Scarlet Fever, Spotted Fever, and Purples 2769
  • Fiſtula 2
  • Flux 14
  • French Pox 45
  • Gout 58
  • Gravel, Stone, and Strangury 59
  • Grief 5
  • Head-ach
  • Headmouldſhot, Horſhoehead, and Water in the Head 44
  • Jaundies 53
  • Impoſthume 1
  • Inflammation 229
  • Itch
  • Leproſy
  • Lethargy 2
  • Livergrown 5
  • Lunatick 46
  • Meaſles 55
  • Miſcarriage
  • Mortification 218
  • Palſy 62
  • Pleuriſy 23
  • Quinſy 1
  • Raſh 3
  • Rheumatiſm
  • Riſing of the Lights
  • Scald Head
  • Scurvy 10
  • Small Pox 1101
  • Sore Throat 13
  • Sores and Ulcers 18
  • St Anthony's Fire 2
  • [438]Stoppage in the Stomach 9
  • Surfeit 3
  • Swelling
  • Teeth 446
  • Thruſh 34
  • Tympany 1
  • Vomiting and Looſeneſs
  • Worms 7
  • BROKEN Limbs 3
  • Bruiſed
  • Burnt 13
  • Drowned 119
  • Exceſſive Drinking 9
  • Executed * 7
  • Found Dead 12
  • Fractured 1
  • Frighted
  • Killed by Falls and ſeveral other Accidents 67
  • Killed themſelves 13
  • Licked by a mad Dog 1
  • Murdered 2
  • Overlaid 3
  • Poiſoned 2
  • Scalded 5
  • Smothered 1
  • Starved 5
  • Suffocated 3
  • Total 266
  • Chriſtned
    • Males 9892
    • Females 9667
    In all 19,559
  • Buried
    • Males 9962
    • Females 9735
    In all 19,697

Whereof have died,

  • Under Two Years of Age 6138
  • Between Two and Five 1522
  • Five and Ten 667
  • Ten and Twenty 866
  • Twenty and Thirty 1552
  • Thirty and Forty 2015
  • Forty and Fifty 2086
  • Fifty and Sixty 1698
  • [439]Sixty and Seventy 1481
  • Seventy and Eighty 1145
  • Eighty and Ninety 460
  • Ninety and a Hundred 55
  • A Hundred 7
  • A Hundred and One 2
  • A Hundred and Two 1
  • A Hundred and Three
  • A Hundred and Four
  • A Hundred and Five
  • A Hundred and Six 1
  • A Hundred and Thirteen 1

Increaſed in the Burials this Year, 348.

It is the opinion of Mr. Richardſon, who has ſerved the Pariſh Offices, that there are near as many buried from London, at different Burial Grounds, without as within the above Bills, unnoticed here.—Burying Grounds without the Bills, cloſe to or in London:—Bunhill Fields—Lady Huntingdon's, Spa Fields— Tottenham-court Road.—Many more ſuch, beſides Marylebone and Pancras.

Appendix B INDEX.

[]
A.
  • ACON, St. Thomas of, Hoſpital Page 384
  • Acutus, Sir John, or Sharp 403
  • Addiſon, his fine Thoughts on the Tombs in Weſtminſter Abby 76
  • Adelphi 133
  • Admiralty Office 103
  • Albemarle, or Newcaſtle Houſe 196
  • Aldermanbury 194, 197
  • Alderſgate 220
  • Aldgate 246
  • All Hallows, Barking 254
  • Almonry, the 81
  • Andrew's St. Holborn 172
  • Andrew's St. Underſhaft 396
  • Antiquities 9, 206, 355
  • Apothecaries Hall 213
  • Archery, antient 242
  • Arlington Houſe 122
  • Artillery Company 238
    • Ground, the Old 237
    • New 238
  • Arundel Collection 32, 122
    • Palace 143
  • Arx Palatina, the Weſt 22
    • the Eaſt 236
  • Aſylum, a moſt laudable Charity 35
  • Auto de Fees held in Smithfield 173
B.
  • Bagnios 219
  • Bailey, Old 216
  • Bank of England 397
  • Bankers, their origin 361
    • an account of 361
  • Banquetting Houſe 98
  • Barber Surgeons Hall 227
  • Barbican, the 224
  • Bartholomew, St. the greater 177
  • Bath's Inn, afterwards Seymour Place 142
  • Baynard Caſtle 317
  • Bear Garden 41
  • Beaufort Buildings 135
  • Beaufoy's Wine Brewery 30
  • Beaumont Inn 316
  • Becket, Thomas, where born 384
  • Bedford Houſe 164
    • in the Strand 135
  • Bedford Row 429
  • Bell Savage Inn 215
  • Berehouſe 277
  • Berkley Houſe 117
  • Berkſhire Houſe 121
  • Bermondſey Abby 53
  • Bethlem, or Bedlam 234
  • Billingſgate 291
  • Biſhopſgate 243
  • Biſhopſgate-ſtreet 242
  • Blackfriers 210
  • Blackwall Hall 383
  • Blood, his enormities 124, 266
  • Bloomſbury Square 164
  • Botolph's, St. Aldgate 247
  • Bowl, St. Giles's, what 161
  • Boy-Biſhop 340
  • Bretagne, dukes of, their houſe 328
  • Breweries 278
  • Bride's, St. Church 201
  • Bridewell 202
    • fine Picture by Holbein 204
  • Bridge, London 294
    • Blackfriers 207
  • []Bridge, Weſtminſter 80, 90, 321
  • Bridgewater Houſe 224
  • Britiſh Town, eſtabliſhment of 1
  • Brook Houſe, lord Brook murdered there 168
  • Buckingham Houſe 123
  • Buckleſbury 387
  • Bull and Mouth Inn 224
  • Burials, ſhameful and moſt dangerous, exemplined 162
  • Burleigh Houſe, or Exeter Houſe 139
  • Burley, Sir S [...]mon de, his houſe 397
  • Buſby, Doctor, his Tomb [...]
C.
  • Cabinet of Charles I. 100
  • Cartaret, Philip, beautiful epitaph on 75
  • Ca [...]e's, St. Hoſpital 275
  • Catherine [...]een, St. Church 394
  • Cavalini, fine proofs of his ſkill in Weſtminſter Abby 62
  • Ceſar, Sir Julius, his ſingular epitaph 416
  • Charcery Lane 155
  • Channel Row 91
  • Chapter Houſe and Crypt, in Weſtminſter 78, 79
  • Charing Croſs 104
  • Charles I. fine equeſtrian ſtatue of 105
    • buſt, by Bernini 88
    • V. lodged in Bridewell 202
  • Charter Houſe 186
  • Portraits there 189
  • Chancer's Inn 57
  • Cheapſide 358, 364
    • Standard, executions at 370
    • Croſs, demolition of 367, 368
  • Chriſt-church Priory 245
    • Hoſpital, once the Grey-friers 179
    • remarkable Portra [...]s in it 184
  • Cibber, Gabriel, his fine Statues at Bethlem 236
  • Clarendon Houſe 123
  • Clements Inn 146
    • St Danes 146
  • Clerkenwell, St. James's 193
  • Cleveland, or Berkſhire Houſe 121
  • Clifford's Inn 1 [...]5
  • Clough, Sir Richard, the original cauſe of the Royal Exchange 389
  • Cobham, Sir John Oldcaſtle, his cruel end 161
  • Coffins, ſtone, modern 166
  • Cold Harbour 305
  • College of Phyſicians 325
  • Common Hunt 234
  • Compter, the new 218
  • Conduits 115, 163
  • Cranes, the Three 310
  • Craven Houſe, once Drury 145
  • Cro [...]bie Houſe 413
  • Crown, attempt on, by Blood 266
  • Crutched friers 251
  • C [...]per's Garden 32
  • Cuſtom-houſe 287
  • Cuſtoms in different periods 288
  • Cu [...]er, Sir John, his two Statues 325, 386
    • deceives the College of Phyſicians 325
D.
  • Danes, St. Clement's 147
  • Denham, Sir John, his verſes on the Thames 427
  • Denmark Houſe 422
  • Devil [...]avern, Ben Jonſon's houſe 155
  • Devonſhire Houſe 117
    • Sq [...]a 239
  • Diſtilleries, g [...] 33
  • Dixie, Sir Wo [...], his portrait 185
  • Doghouſe, the 233
  • []Dorſet Houſe 201
    • Theatre ibid.
  • Dowgate 9, 309
  • Drapers Hall 406
  • Drury Houſe 144
  • Duel, trials by 174
  • Duke's Place 244
  • Dunſtan's, St. Church 198
  • Durham Place 131
E.
  • Edward I. his Tomb broke open 67
    • the Black Prince, his houſe 304
  • Ely Houſe 170
  • Engliſh Wines 30
  • Equeſtrian Theatres 36
  • E [...]ber, the 309
  • Eſſex Houſe, the houſe of the ill-fated favourite 147
  • Exchange, New 133
    • Exeter 138
    • the King's, or old 358
    • Royal 389
  • Exciſe Office 412
  • Execution Dock 282
  • Exeter, or Burleigh Houſe 138
    • Houſe 147
F.
  • Falſtaff's Tavern in Eaſtcheap 300
  • Faux, Guy, an inhabitant of Lambeth 29
  • Finſbury Fields 233
  • Fire, great, in 1666 302
  • Fiſh of London market in Edward I's time 292
  • the Thames 425
  • Fiſhmongers Hall 304
  • Fitz-Oſbert, his ſtory 466
  • Fitzwalter, banner-bearer and caſtillon of London 317
  • Fleet Priſon 207
    • Ditch 205
    • Street 198
  • Flemings, cruel maſſacre of 371
  • Fortification of London in 1642 121
  • Friers, the White 199
    • the Black 210
    • Croſſed 251
  • Furnival's Inn 168
G.
  • Gaming houſe, the 114
  • Garter place 225
  • Garth, Sir Samuel, his lines on queen Anne's Statue 354
  • George, St. Bloomſbury, its abſurd ſteeple 165
    • Fields 33
    • Hoſpital 120
  • Gibbons, his fine font at St. James's 126
  • Giles St. Cripplegate 226
    • in the Fields 161
  • Globe, Shakeſpear's Theatre 57
  • Gloceſter, Elinor dutcheſs of, her penance 372
  • Godfrey, Sir Edmondbury, his ſtory 140
  • Goldſmiths Hall 359
    • originally Bankers 360
  • Goodman's Fields 250
  • Gower, the poet, his tomb 45
  • Granary, public 392
  • Graſshopper on the Royal Exchange 391
    • Sir Thomas Greſham's ſign 418
  • Gray's-inn 166
  • Greſham College 410
    • Sir Thomas, his great merit 389
    • his ſhop 418
  • Grocers Hall 386
  • Grub-ſtreet 232
  • []Gryffydd, a Welſh prince, killed in attempting to eſcape from the Tower 273
  • Guildhall 372
    • portraits of Judges in 373
    • great feaſts 374 to 381
  • Gunpowder plot, ſcene of 87
  • Guy Faux 29
    • his Cellar 87
  • Guy's Hoſpital 53
  • Gwynne, Nell, her luxurious apartment 101
H.
  • Hanover-ſquare 116
  • Hatton Garden, and Palace 169
    • John of Gaunt dies there ibid.
    • great feaſts there 170
  • Hawkwood Sir John, a hero, originally a Taylor 403
  • Hayhill, Sir Thomas Wyat's remains hung there 116
  • Haymarket, and Hedge-lane 112
  • Helen's St. the Leſs, a Priory 415
    • the Greater, monuments in ibid.
  • Heralds College 356
  • Horſey, chancellor of London dioceſe, his barbarous murder of Richard Hunn 331
  • Houblon family 398
    • Sir John 399
    • firſt governor of the Bank ibid.
    • James, his epitaph 398
  • Houndſditch 244
  • Hudſon's Bay houſe 422
  • Hungerford ſtairs 129
I. J.
  • James II. his fine ſtatue by Gibbons 103
  • James's, St. Church 126
    • fine Font, by Gibbon ibid.
    • Palace 106
    • portraits in 109
    • Clerkenwell 193
  • Jermyn-houſe 125
  • Jeruſalem Chamber, Henry IV. dies in it 79
  • Jewry, Old 384
  • India-houſe 394
  • Inns or Taverns, antient 243, 300, 310
  • John, Priory of St. John of Jeruſalem 191
    • Sir William Weſton laſt prior 192
    • St. Church, Weſtminſter 59
  • Johnſon, doctor Samuel 200
K.
  • King's-bench Priſon 38
  • Kings and Queens, tombs of in Weſtminſter Abby 62 to 75
  • Knightrider-ſtreet 358
L.
  • Lambeth Palace 17
    • Library 20
    • Portraits 22
    • Church 24
  • Land archbiſhop, inſtance of his ſuperſtition 395
  • Lauderdale houſe 223
  • Leadenhall 392
  • Leathern Artillery 26
  • Lee, Sir Henry, the aged champion of queen Elizabeth 96
  • Leiceſter-houſe 112
  • Lever, Sir Aſhton, his matchleſs Muſeum 133
  • Limehouſe 282
  • Linacre, inſtitutes the College of Phyſicians 358
  • []Lincoln's-Inn 158
    • Fields 159
  • Lindeſay-houſe 160
  • Loke Hoſpital 56
  • Lollards Tower, at Lambeth 19
    • in St. Paul's 330
  • Lombard-ſtreet 417
  • London 3
    • only a Praefecture 5
    • name whence derived 16
    • imports 5
    • when firſt mentioned 6
    • deſtroyed by the Britons 6, 7
    • enlarged by the Romans ibid.
    • long an open Town ibid.
    • when walled 7
    • Antiquities 9, 10, 11
    • Houſe 222
    • Bridge 240
    • Wall 239
  • Long Acre 161
  • Lords, houſe of 85
    • of Commons 88
  • Ludgate 214
  • Luke's, St. Hoſpital 236
  • Lumley-houſe 252
M.
  • Machabre, or dance of death 330
  • Magdalen Hoſpital 35
  • Magnus, St. church 300
  • Manſion-houſe 388
  • Margaret's, Weſtminſter, fine window in 81
  • Marlborough-houſe 111
  • Marriages in the Fleet 208
  • Marſhalſea Priſon 40
  • Martin, St. in the Fields 129
    • Le Grand, its peculiar privileges 362
  • Mary, St. Overies, Southwark 44
    • Rounceval 105
    • Le Strand 139
    • Spittle 240
  • Marybone Gardens 123
  • May Day, evil 396
  • May Fair 115
  • Mayor of London, the firſt 15
  • May-pole in the Strand 144
  • Mercers-hall 384
  • Merchant-Taylors-hall 399
  • Meuſe, the 106
  • Michael's, St. its fine Tower 391
  • Mill-bank 58
  • Milliner, the White 134
  • Minories 249
  • Mint, the 38
  • Mobs, barbarity of antient Engliſh, and modern French, paralleled 268
  • Montague-houſe 164
  • Montfichet, Caſtle of 211
    • Tower of 323
  • Monument, the 302
  • Moor-gate 234
  • Fields 233
  • Mortality, bills of 284
  • Muſeum, Britiſh 164
  • Myddleton, Sir Hugh, his portrait 359
    • forms the New River 197
N.
  • Nag's-head, ſcandalous ſtory of 368
  • Navy Office, old 253
  • Newcaſtle-houſe 160
    • another in Clerkenwell 196
  • Newgate 217
    • Street 218
  • New River head 197
  • Nobility, ſprung from honeſt trade 364
  • Norman Conqueſt 13
  • Norris, lord, fine figure on his tomb 65
  • Northumberland-houſe 128
    • in Crutched Friers 253
    • in Alderſgate-ſtreet 222
[]
O.
  • Old Bailey 216
  • Old Jewry 384
  • Old Temple 166
  • Oſborne, anceſtor of the duke of Leeds, his heroiſm 298
P.
  • Paget-houſe 147
  • Painter-ſtainers hall 316
  • Palace at Weſtminſter 82
    • St. James's 106
    • Whitehall 9
    • Scotland-yard 104
  • Pall Mall 111
  • Pannier Alley 219
  • Papey, the 410
  • Paris Garden 40
  • Pariſh Clerks, antient actors 194
  • Paul's, St. Cathedral 328
    • burnt in 1086 329
    • again in the great fire 351
    • Chapter-houſe 330
    • Lollards Tower ibid.
    • antient Tombs and Shrines 334
    • ſingular offering 339
    • Biſhop's Palace at 341
    • dimenſions of St. Paul's and St. Peter's at Rome 352
    • ſingular offering of a Doe 339
  • Paul's croſs, its various uſes 342 to 350
  • Paul's walkers, what 353
  • Peccadilla-hall 114
  • Pennant, William, goldſmith 176
  • Peſt-houſes 114
  • Phyſicians, College of 325
    • portraits in 326
    • once in Knightriders-ſtreet 358
  • Pindar, Sir Paul, his great wealth and misfortunes 414
  • Plague, when it ceaſed in this kingdom 303
  • Pleureurs, what 64, 410
  • Pole, de la, an unfortunate race 420
  • Poplar Cut 283
  • Poſt Office, its periodical revenue 418
  • Poultney-Inn 305
  • Powis-houſe 165
  • Pretender, his birth 108
  • Printing-houſe, the King's 214
  • Puddle Dock 323
Q.
  • Queenhithe 315
R.
  • Radcliff 282
    • Highway 286
  • Rag-fair 286
  • Requeſts, Court of 86
  • Richard II. original portrait of 70
  • Ring, the 120
  • River, New 197
  • Rolls, the 155
    • monuments in the Chapel 156
  • Rotherhithe 56
  • Rouncevaux, St. Mary 105
  • Royal Exchange 389
    • Society, its inſtitution 411
  • Ruſſel lord, his execution 160
S.
  • Sacheverel, doctor, battle between him and Whiſton 173
  • Saint Saviour's Dock, Southwark 55
  • []Saint Stephen's chapel, beautiful remains of 89
  • Saliſbury Court 200
  • Sanctuary in Weſtminſter 80
  • Savoy Hoſpital, the 135
  • Scarborough, Sir Charles, his portrait 230
  • Scotland, kings of, their pal [...]ce 104
  • Sepulchre's, St. pious admonitions to condemned criminals in their way to death 220
    • St. Church 220
  • Serjeants Inn 155
  • Seymour, lord high admiral, his practices on the princeſs Elizabeth 142
  • Seymour Place 132
  • Shadwell 282
  • Shaftſbury houſe 222
  • Sharrington-houſe 253
  • Shaw, doctor, preaches at Paul's croſs 347
  • Shoreditch 242
    • duke of ibid.
  • Shore, Jane, her ſtory 343
  • Ston Co [...]lege 231
  • Skating, antient method of 133
  • Smithfield 173
    • Tournaments there 174
  • Society, Royal, its origin 411
  • Soho ſquare, origin of the name 117
  • Somerſet-houſe 139
  • Soredich, Sir John de 242
  • Southampton-houſe 167
  • South-Sea houſe 405
  • Southwark 36
  • Specula, Roman 9
  • Speed, John, the hiſtorian 403
  • Spittle-fields 241
  • Spittle, St. Mary 240
  • Sp [...]eaders of rumours, unjuſt execution of one 248
  • Stafford, lord, infamouſly condemned 122
  • Stationers-hall 328
  • Steel-yard 307
  • Steel-yard, two remarkable paintings there by Holbein 307
  • Stephen's, St. Walbrooke 388
  • Stephen, Sir, a wretched fanatical prieſt 248, 396
  • Stepney 280
  • Stews 43
  • Stocks Market 388
  • Stone, artificial 30
  • Stow, John, h [...] houſe 2 [...]
  • mon [...]n [...]t [...]
  • Strand, its antient ſtate 126
  • Surgeons, Barber-ſurgeons 226
  • Surgeons Theatre 216
  • Surgery, its ſtate in the reign of Henry VIII. 229
  • Stuart, lady Arabella, her ſtory 271
  • Surry, County 17
  • Sutton, Mr. his vaſt charities 188
T.
  • Tabard, Chaucer's Inn 57
  • Tart Hall 122
  • Taylors of diſtinguiſhed characters 402
  • Temple, the 146
    • Monuments in its round Church 150
    • Hall, great Chriſtmas feaſts there 153
    • Gate, involuntary work of Sir Amius Powlet ibid.
    • Garden, ſcene of the white and red roſe 154
    • Old 166
  • Temple-bar 146
  • Temple, Mr. ſon of Sir W. Temple, his ſuicide 300
  • Thames, river, its courſe 423
    • its Fiſh 425
  • Thames-ſtreet 323
  • Thanet Houſe 222
  • Thavies Inn 168
  • Thomas, St. Hoſpital 50
  • []Threadneedle-ſtreet 397
  • Thynne, Mr. his murder 125
  • Tilt Yard 94
  • Tombs in Weſtminſter Abby 62
    • in St. Paul's 334
  • Tons, [...]aſt 31
  • Torregiano Pietro, his work in England 73, 157
  • Tortoiſe at Lambeth, its vaſt longevity 23
  • Tower, the 255
    • murders within 257
    • Chapel of, perſons buried in 262
    • lawleſs executions in 268
    • natural deaths in 269
    • the White 256
    • Lions 258
  • Tower-hill, perſons beheaded on 260
  • Tower Royal 314
  • Town Ditch 210
  • Tradeſcants, their Tomb 28
    • Muſeum 27
  • Train-bands 238
  • Trinity Houſe 289
  • Tudor, Owen, confined in New-gate 274
  • Tyburn 163
V.
  • Vauxhall 29
  • Veſpers, fatal 213
  • Victualling Office 286
  • Viner, Sir Robert, his houſe 419
    • his conviviality with Charles II. 420
  • Vintners Hall 311
  • Vintrie, the 310
W.
  • Walbrook 309
  • Walls, city, courſe of 209
  • Wapping 281
  • Waxchandlers, their frugal feaſt 382
  • Welby, Henry, his ſingular life 232
  • Wells, river of 309
  • Welſh MSS. deſtroyed in the 173
    • Tower 174
    • confined in the Tower, verſes on 431
  • Weſtminſter 58
    • Bridge 90
    • Palace 82
    • Hall ibid.
    • Abby 59
    • Lying-in Hoſpital 35
  • Weſtmoreland Houſe 223
  • Whitechapel 248
  • Whitehall palace, and fine gates 92, 93
  • Whittington, Sir Richard, his good deeds 182, 313
    • ſtory of his cat paralleled 313
  • Wimbleden Houſe 138
  • Wincheſter Houſe, Southwark 48
    • Broad-ſtreet 409
  • Wines, Engliſh, Meſſrs. Beaufoy's manufacture 30
  • Woolſtaple at Weſtminſter 90
  • Worceſter Place, the houſe of John Tiptoft 315
    • Houſe in the Strand 135
  • Wyat, Sir Thomas, where taken 215
Y.
  • York Houſe 130
    • Stairs 131
FINIS.
Notes
*
De Brie's Virginia, tab. xix. xx.
Moore's Travels into Africa, 26.
Oppidum autem Britanni vocant quum ſylvas impeditas vallo atque foſſa munierunt. Caeſar. de Bel. Gal. lib. v.—Locum egregiè et naturâ et opere munitum. Ibid. Strabo, lib. iv. p. 306.
*
Dioderus Siculus, lib. v. c. 11.
Conjuges et liberos in loca tuta transferrent. Tacitus in vit. Agric.
*
Fitzſtephen's Deſcr. London, 26.
*
Holinſhed, 634.
*
Strabo, lib. iv. p. 265.
The ſame, p. 307.
*
Bell. Gall. lib. iv.
Annales, lib. xiv. c. 32.
*
Tac. Annales, lib. xiv. c. 33.
Ammianus Marcellinus, lib. xxviii. c. 3.
*
Parentalia, p. 266.
*
Parentalia, p. 267. Grew's Muſeum, 380.
*
Parentalia, p. 266.—The P [...]m [...]erium was a ſpace on the outſide of fortified towns, on which all buildings were prohibited.
Gale's Iter Anton. 68. Britannia Romana, 331. tab. 75.
Sax. Chron.
*
Sax. Chron. 86. Wil. Mel [...]ſh. lib. ii. 248.
*
Cuſtoms of London, p. 23.
Fitzſtephen.
Peter de Blois, archdeacon of London. See Fitzſtephen, p. 28, in the note.
*
Mr. William Owen, of Barmouth, now reſident in London.
*
Ducarel's Lambeth, 72.
8, 9.
*
Granger, i. 202.
*
Life of Edward earl of Clarendon, octavo ed. i. 62.
In Mr. Vandergucht's ſale.
*
Rapin, 2d ed. folio ii, 781.
*
Harte's Hiſt. Guſtavus Adelphus, 2d ed. i. 92. ii. 42.
Parkinſon's Paradi [...]ur Terreſtris, 152.
*
Species Plantarum, i. 411.
*
Parkinſon's Paradiſus Terreſtris, p. 575.
Aſhmole's Diary, 36.
The late Sir William Watſon, and Doctor Mitchel.—See Ph. Tranſ. vol. xlvi. p. 160.
*
See the form of the tomb and ſculpture in Doctor Ducarel's App. to the Hiſtory of Lambeth, p. 96. tab. iv.v.—and Ph. Tranſ. lxiii. tab. iv.v.
*
Dugdale's embankments, p. 67.
*
Rymer's Foedera, xix. 719.
*
According to Mr. Keyſler, the Heydelberg veſſel holds two hundred and four tons.
Howard Memoirs, 98.
*
Written before the ſhameful adulteration of the oil has almoſt given to this once glorious ſplendor, as well as that of moſt of our ſtreets, little better than a "darkneſs viſible."
Gale's I [...]n. Anton. 65.
See the account of the inſtitution.
*
Obſervations upon lord Orrery's remarks on the life and writings of Doctor Sw [...]ft, p. 162 to 165.
*
Simeon Dunelm, in x Script. i. 186.
*
Stow's Surva [...]e, 789.
*
Dugdale's Hiſt. of Warwickſhire, i. 148.
Tour in Wales, i. 369.
*
Br. Biog. iii. 2145.
Stow's Survaie, 781.
*
Survaie, 770.
*
Princely pleaſures of Kenilworth, 22.
Strype's Annals, i. 191.
Stow's Survaie, 771.
*
Third Sermon preached before king Edward, p. 42.
*
Tanner, —I heartily wiſh that the editor of the laſt edition of this uſeful author had paged the work; I have cauſed my copy to be paged with a pen; for my own uſe, ſo have left a blank to be filled.
*
Leland Collect. iii.
*
Mr. Thomas Warton.
*
Dugdale on embanking, 65.
*
Tanner.
Willis's Abbies, i. 230.
*
Maitland, ii. 1389.
*
Maitland, ii. 1389.
Strype's Stow, I. Book iv. p. 24.
*
See an engraving of it in vol. I. of Johnſon's Shakeſpear.
*
Anecdotes of Painting, i. 2, & ſeq.
*
Engraven by Mr. Vertue, and publiſhed among the Vetuſta Monumenta, [...]ab. xvi.
Funeral Monuments, 485.
*
All theſe are accurately engraven, and fully explained, in the firſt volume of Mr. Carter's Antiquities.
*
See Sandf [...]rd's Genealogies, 92. — Dart, tab. 85. vol. ii. — Gough's Sepulch. Mon. i. 57, tab. xx, xxi.
See the curious contract, in Dugdale's Warwickſhire, p. 354, between the executors of Richard Beauchamp earl of Warwick, and John Eſſex, marbler; William Auſtin, founder; and Thomas Stevens, copper-ſmith; for their making xiv lords and ladyes in divers veſtures called weepers, and xiv images of mourners, to be gilt by Bartholemew Lambeſpring, Dutchman, and goldſmythe of London.—Conſult alſo Mr. Gough's Sepulchral Monuments, i. preface, p. 7.
*
Dugdale's Baronage, ii. 404.—Dart, by miſtake, calls this nobleman Francis; who was grandſon to Henry, and left only one child, a daughter. He fell a ſuicide, in a fit of proud reſentment, for an imaginary affront on account of a lord Scrope, which he had not the ſenſe, or the courage, to accommodate in a proper manner.
*
Archaelogia, iii. 376, 398, 399.—Similar warrants were iſſued on account of Edward III. Richard II. and Henry IV.
*
The dreſs is repreſented on a ſeal of this monarch's, in Sandford's Genealogy, 120, with tolerable accuracy.
Archaelogia, iii. 402.
Sandford, 131.
Sandford, 177.—Gough's Sepulch. Mon. i. 139. tab. lv. lvi.
*
Sandford, 172.—Gough, i. 63. tab. xxiii.
Sandford, 203.— Gough's Sepulch. Mon. i. 163, tab. lxi. lxii.
*
Vetuſta Monumenta, tab. iv.
Sandford, 289.
*
Mr. Carter intends to engrave this in his ſpecimens of antient ſculpture.
*
Parentalia, 333.
*
Will of Henry VII. preface p. iv.
Anecdotes of Painting, i. 97.
Will of Henry VII. publiſhed 1775, p. 3, 34.
*
Will of Henry VII. 34.
Dart, i. 152, 171.
See the famous letter of Mary Stuart, in Burghley's ſtate papers, 558.
*
Dart, ii. 112.
But I ſhall not quit them without mentioning an error in my Journey to London, p. 389, in naming the lad [...], who died by the pricking her finger with a needle, lady Suſanna Grey: whereas the fabuliſts in Weſtminſter Abby attribute the misfortune to lady Elizabeth Ruſſel.
*
Tanner.
Quoted by Stow, book 1. vol. i. 123.
*
This crypt is only acceſſible through the houſe of Mr. Barrow.
*
Brown's Faſciculus, i. 83, 88.
Archaelogia, i. p. & tab. 39.
*
Kip has given a view of it, No 40.
Carter's antient ſculptures, No 1.
*
Stow's Survaie, 888, 889.
*
Coke's Inſt. iv. c. 9.
From the Hebrew, Shetàr.
Blackſtone, book iv. c. 19.
See lord Clarendon's curious account of its abuſe, Hiſt. Rebel. book i.ii.
*
Mr. Carter, vol. i. tab. i. p. 1.
*
Newcourt, i. 745.
*
Strype's Stow, ii. book vi. p. 7.
Anderſon's Dict. i. 184.
*
M. Groſley's tour to London, i. 27, 28.
*
New view of London, ii. 627.
See Fiddes's life of Wolſey, 497.
*
Both theſe gates are engraven in plates xvii.xviii. of the Vetuſta Monumenta, publiſhed by the Society of Antiquaries—and alſo by Kip.
*
Hentzner's Travels, in vol. i. Fugitive Pieces, p. 278.
Memoirs, 98.
*
Weldon's Court of King James, 5.
*
From p. 1316 to p. 1321.
The liſt is given in the Appendix.
*
Tour in Scotland, 1772, vol. ii.
See Mr. Walpole's Miſcellaneous Antiquities, No 1. p. 41.
*
The knights of this gallant band were drawn at the time in their proper armour. The book was in poſſeſſion of the late dutcheſs dowager of Portland, who, with her uſual condeſcenſion and friendſhip, permitted me to have any copies I choſe.
Sydney's State Papers, i. 194
Herbert's Memoirs, 135.—Warwick's Memoirs, 334.
*
Repreſented in one of Hollar's prints.
This is figured in one of the private plates engraven at the expence of her grace.
*
Mr. Walpole.
From a painting in poſſeſſion of the earl of Hardwick.
*
Mr. Walpole.
*
See M. Archenholz's Tableau d' Angleterre, i. 163.
Newcourt, i. 693.
Tanner.
*
Stowe's Survaie, 839.
Willis's Landaff, 51.
Fenn's Letters, i. 110.
*
Apology for the life of Colley Cibber, 26.
S. Pegge, eſq
Whitelock.
Herbert's Memoirs, 106.
*
Dalrymple's Memoirs.
*
Sandford, 677.
*
Vulgar Errors, p. 194.
*
Sandford, 565.
See Journey to London.
*
Clarendon's Hiſt. Oxford ed. 1705, i. 241, ſub anno 1640.
*
Strype's Memorials, iii. 120.
*
Religio Medici, part ii. ſect. 9.
All the weſt part was originally called Portugal-ſtreet.
*
London and its environs.
*
Continuation of the life of the earl of Clarendon, octavo, vol. iii. p. 971.— The houſe is engraven by Dunſtal.
*
Rereſby's Memoirs, 142.
*
Rereſby, 4.
See this font engraven by Vertue, tab. iii. of the Vetuſta Monumenta.
*
Rymer's Foedera, v. 762.
*
See the plan of London, as it was in the year 1600, publiſhed by John Bowles.
*
Mr. Walpole.
It is engraven by H. Hulſebergh.
*
N [...]court, i. 691.
*
Stow's Survaie, 837.
*
Holinſhed, 1083.
Britiſh Biog. iii. p. 1779.
*
Clarendon. Whitelocke, 595.
*
Fuller's Ch. Hiſt. book iii. p. 63.
*
See the inſcription in the New View of London, ii. 402. She died in 1612.
*
Stow's Survai [...], 835.
*
Dugdale's Origines Judiciales, 230.
Mr. Thomas Warton.
Anecdotes of Painting, i. 114.
*
See Evelyn's Medals, 171, 172, 173.
*
Burghley's State Papers, p. 95.
Burghley's State Papers, p. 103. The whole of his infamous conduct in this affair is fully related from p. 95 to 103.
*
Memoirs of the Howards, p. 94.
See Kenne [...]'s Hiſt. ii. 449, 457, 473, 557.
*
Journey to London.
*
Cibber's Apology, 75.
Dugdale's Origines, 187, 230.
*
Newcourt, i. 591.
Sydney Papers, i. 73.
*
Newcourt's Repertorium, i. 589,
*
Mr. G [...]ugh's Monum. i. 24. tab. v.
*
Cambden, i. 382.—The others are engraven in plate xix.
*
Origines Judiciales, 128.
156.
Fiddes's life of cardinal Wolſey, 7.
Holinſhed, 918, who calls him Sir James. He was anceſtor of earl Powlet.
*
This gate was burnt in the great fire.
Firſt part of Henry VI. act ii. ſc. iv.
*
Origines Judiciales, 326.
The ſame, 187.
*
See the Guardian, Nos 129, 133—and Collins's Peerage, ii. 195 to 197.
*
Mr. Walpole.
*
Tour in Wales, i. 293, 2d. ed.
Ch. J. Brooke, eſq
*
Howel's Hiſt. London, 345.
Newcourt, i. 611.
*
See Dugdale's Warwickſhire, i, 260; in which is a print of the tomb, and a liſt of her great charities.
Maitland, ii. 1373.
*
Whitelock, 8.
*
J. C. Brooke, eſq
*
Origines Judiciales, 272.
*
Stow's Survaie, 824.
Introduction to lady Rachel Ruſſel's letters, octavo, p. lxxvi.
*
Edmondſon's account of the Greville family, 86.
*
Stow, book iii.
*
Ballard's lives of Britiſh ladies, 52.
*
Froiſſart, tom iv. ch. xxii. Lord Berner's tranſlation, ii. p. ccix.
*
See part iv. of the hiſtory of the firſt fourteen years of king James.
*
Strype, i. book iii. 132.
Holinſhed, 471.
See Strype as above.
*
See State Trials, vol. 13. old ed.
Stow's Annals, 364, 365. Parliam. Hiſt. 190.—This fact is ſcarcely noticed by our modern hiſtorians.
*
Holinſhed, 703.
Stow's Annals, 517.
My Journey to London, 335.—The tomb is engraven in the Antiquaries Repoſitory.
*
Collins's Baronets, iii. 103.
Wood's Athenae Oxon. i. 300.
*
The charities of both theſe worthy characters may be ſeen in Stow's Sur [...]aie, 203, 207.
*
Britiſh Biogr. 2d ed. ii. 286.
Stow's Survaie, 806—7.
Tanner.
*
Willis's Abbies, ii. 126.
*
Stow's Annals, 823.
*
Mr. Walpole's Anecdotes, ii. 25.
*
Newcour [...]t, i. 668.
*
Mr. Brooke, Somerſet Herald.
*
Fuller's Church Hiſtory, book vi. 278.
Holinſhed, 478.
*
Funeral Monuments, 430.
Fuller's Worthies, 117.
Stow, ii. book iv. 67.
*
New View of London, i. 213.
*
See Doctor JOHNSON's Journey to the Weſtern Iſlands, p. 296—See his Dictionary, article Oats—and my Voyage to the Hebrides, firſt edition.
Mr. Boſwel's Journal, 268.
*
Stow's Survaie, 116. Dugdale's St. Paul's, 6.
*
Survay of London, p. 15.
*
Mr. Northouk.
Printed for J. Wallis.
*
See State Trials, vol. ix. page 107.
The ſame, pages 112, 145, 185, 203, 209, 218.—For farther particulars reſpecting this priſon, ſee Mr. HOWARD on Priſons, octavo, 177.
*
Vegetius.
*
Survaie, i. p. 47.
*
Sydney Papers, ii. 203.
*
Fuller's Church Hiſtory, book xvi. p. 14.
Spectator, vol. i. No 28.
*
Mr. Brooke, Somerſet Herald.
State of Priſons, 4to edition, 213.
*
Chr. vol. ii. part vii. 285.
*

ADMONITION TO THE PRISONERS IN NEWGATE, ON THE NIGHT BEFORE EXECUTION.

You priſoners that are within,
Who for wickedneſs and ſin,

after many mercies ſhewn you, are now appointed to die to-morrow in the forenoon; noon; give ear, and underſtand, that to morrow morning, the greateſt bell of St. Sepulchre's ſhall toll for you, in form and manner of a paſſing bell, as uſed to be tolled for thoſe that are at the point of death: to the end that all godly people, hearing that bell, and knowing it is for year going to your deaths, may be ſtirred up he [...]rtily to pray to GOD to beſtow his grace and mercy upon you, whilſt you live. I beſeech you, for JESUS CHRIST's ſake, to keep this night in watching and prayer, to the ſalvation of your own ſouls, while there is yet time and place for mercy; as knowing to morrow you muſt appear before the judgment-ſeat of your Creator, there to give an account of all things done in this life, and to ſuffer eternal torments for your ſins committed againſt him, unleſs, upon your hearty and unfeigned repentance, you find mercy, through the merits, death, and paſſion of your only mediator and advocate JESUS CHRIST, who now ſits at the right hand of God, to make interceſſion for as many of you as penitently return to him.

‘ADMONITION TO THE CONDEMNED CRIMINALS, AS THEY ARE [...] ING BY ST. SEPULCHRE's CHURCH-WALL TO EXECUTION.’

All good people, pray heartily unto God for theſe poor ſinners, who are now going to their death, for whom this great bell doth toll.

You that are condemned to die, repent with lamentable tears: aſk mercy of the Lord, for the ſalvation of your own ſouls, through the merits, death, and paſſion of JESUS CHRIST, who now ſits at the right hand of God, to make interceſſion for as many of you as penitently return unto him.

LORD have mercy upon you.
CHRIST have mercy upon you.
LORD have mercy upon you.
CHRIST have mercy upon you.
*
Collins's Peerage, vii. 32.
Strype's Stow, i. book iii. 121.
*
When he was in power, he urged the Dutch war with uncommon animoſity; and always concluded his ſpeeches with, Delenda eſt Carthago! When he fled into Holland, he was ſo fearful of being given up, that he ſolicited to be made burgeſs of Amſterdam, in order to ſecure his perſon. The magiſtrates conferred on him that privilege, with theſe remarkable words; A noſtra CARTHAGINE non [...]um deletâ, SALUTEM ACCIPE!
*
C [...]llin [...]'s P [...]rage, ii. 3.
*
EVELYN's Fumifugium, 18, 19, 21, 30.
Howel's Londinopolis, 305.
*
Vol. i. book iii. 76.
Newcourt, i. 236.
Howel, 304.
*
Atkin's Memoirs of Medicine, 50,
Strype's Stow, i. book iii. p. 67.
*
Atkin's Memoirs of Medicine, p. 99.
*
INSCRIPTION UNDER DR. SCARBOROUGH'S PICTURE.
Haec tibi Scarburgi Aniſius queis ſpiritus intus
Corporis humani nobile verſat opus.
Ille Opifex rerum tibi rerum arcana recluſit,
Et Numen verbis juſſit ineſſe tuis.
Ille Dator rerum tibi res indulſit opimas,
Atque animum indultas qui bene donet opes.
Alter erit quiſquis magna haec exempla ſequetur,
Alterutri veſtrum nemo ſecundus erit.
Newcourt's Repertorium, i. 347.
*
Newcourt's Repertorium, i. 348.
*
Fitzſtephen, &c. tranſlated by an Antiquary, 51.
*
Strype's Stow, ii. book v. p. 163. and his Survaie, p. 960.
D [...]gda [...]e on embanking, 73.
Steven's Suppl. ii. 274.
*
Hiſt. account, &c. of Bethlem Hoſpital, publiſhed in 1783.
*
Strype's Stow, i. book ii. p. 96, 97.
*
Clarendon, ii. 380.
Whitelock's Memorials, 65.
*
Stow, book ii. 96.
Colli [...]'s Noble Families, 6.
Stow's Survaie, 319.
*
See page 11 for an account of the antiquities found in theſe fields.
Weever, 427.
Strype's Stow, i. book p. 97.
Mooriſh pikes.—See Mr. Groſe's Antient Armcur, 50, 51.
*
Stow's Survaie, 323.
Holinſhed, 365. Weever's Funeral Monuments, 427.
*
Strype's Stow, i. book i. p. 250.
*
Blunt's Jocular Tenures, 123, laſt edition.
*
Fuller's Church Hiſtory, book vi. 306.
Mr. Carter has made drawings of theſe remains.
Gentleman's Magazine, April 1789, 293. tab. i.
*
Lord Herbert's life of Henry VIII. p. 15.
*
Stow, ii. book iv. p, 44.
*
His Survaie, 224.
Life of Doctor Johnſon, 76.
Life of Garrick, i. 42.
*
Athenae Ox. i. 56.
*
Tour in Wales, vol. ii. 31.
*
Stow's Survaie, 293.
Holinſhed.
Strype, i. book ii. 41.
*
Carte, i. 231.
Newcourt, i. 238, 765.
Collins, i. 95. Stow's Survaie, 250.
*
Weever, 501.
Newcourt, 241.
The ſame, 243.
*
Guillelm. Pictav. inter Script. Normann, p. 205.
Survai [...], 73.
*
Lord Lyttelton's Henry II. iii. 139.
Strype's Stow, i. book i. p. 69.
*
Madox Antiq. Excheq. i. 376.
*
Engraved and deſcribed by M. de la Metherie, dans le Journal de Phyſique. J [...]llet, 1788. p. 45. tab. ii.
*
See the whole in the firſt xiv yeares of king James's reign, p. 150.
Str [...]pe's Stow, i. book i. 68. Mr. WALPOLE's Anecdotes, i. 4.
*
See a very curious account of the proceſſions in the Antiquarian Repertory, iii. 202.
*
Dalrymple's Memoirs, ii. 168.
*
See the ſeveral accounts in Kennet, iii. 283—Strype's Stow, i. book i. 92 to 96—Brit. Biography, article Blood.
*
Fabian's Chronicle, part vi. 451.
*
In the ſame collection is another portrait of the ſame nobleman, out of confinement, richly dreſſed, with a rich helmet and armour lying by him.
*
Powel's Hiſtory of Wales, 307—Wynne's Hiſtory, 263.
*
E [...]s's W [...] poetry, 160.
See R [...]m [...]' [...] F [...] x 6 [...]5, 709.
The Reverend RICHARD WILLIAMS, of V [...]n. See Appendix, for a ſimilar Poem, by the ſame Gentleman.
*
See the account of Owen Tudor, in my Tour in Wales, ii. 256.
*
Rymer, xii. 271.
Maitland, ii. 1017.
*
S [...]ype's Stow, ii. 292.
C [...]mes, &c of London, printed in

Vaſt quantities of our beer or porter are ſent abroad; I do not know the ſum, but the following extract from a newſpaper, will ſhew the greatneſs of our Breweries.

The following is a liſt of the chief porter brewers of London, and the barrels of ſtrong beer they have brewed, from Midſummer 1786, to Midſummer 1787. And we make no doubt but it will give our readers much pleaſure, to find ſuch a capital article of trade ſolely confined to England; and the more ſo, as a large quantity of the porter makes a conſiderable part of [...]r exports.

 Barrels.
Whitbread, Samuel150,280
Calvert, Felix131,043
Thrale, H [...]ſter105,559
Read, W. (Trueman's)95,302
Calvert, John91,150
Hammond, Peter90,852
Godwin, Henry66,398
Ph [...]llips, John54,197
M [...]ax, Richard49,651
Wigg [...]r, Matthew40,741
F [...]ſet, Thomas40,279
Dawſon, Ann39,400
Jordan, Thomas24,193
Dickenſon, Joſeph23,659
Hare, Richard23,251
Allen, Thomas23,013
Rickinſon, Rivers18,640
Pearce, Richard16,901
Coker, Thomas16,744
Proctor, Thomas16,584
Newberry, William16,517
Hodgſon, George16,384
Bu [...]lock, Robert16,272
Clarke, Edward9,855
Total of Barrels1,176,856
*
The late Humphry Parſons, eſq when he was hunting with Louis XV. excited the king's curioſity to know who he was, and aſking one of his attendants, received the above anſwer.
*
Newcourt, i. 737.
Dugdale on embanking, 69.
Lives of the Saints.
He died September 8th, 1541.
*
Hackluyt, i. 239.
*
Mr. Richardſon.
*
Maitland, ii. 755.—This book is dedicated to Slingſby Bethel, eſq who was lord mayor in that year.
To ſatisfy the curioſity of thoſe who have not opportunity of ſeeing a Bill of Mortality, I have printed that of 1788, at the end of this book.
*
Newcourt, i. 465.
Strype's Stow, ii. book iv. 114.
*
Brompton x Scriptores, i. col. 897.
Dictionary, i. 186.
*
The whole corporation are uſually called The Thirty-one Brethren. See a full account in Strype's St [...]w, ii. book v. p. 286-7.
*
Strype's Maitland, ii. book v. p. 286.
Skinner's Etymology.
Edward I. his grant of Botolph's quay.
*
Forme of Cury, 52.
53, 39, 56.
Caii opuſcula, 116.
Britiſh Zoology, iii. 320.
*
Saxon Chron. 148.
The ſame.
Maitland, i. 35.
*
Holinſhed, 690.
*
Fugitive Pieces, vol. ii. 243.
Stow's Survaie.—London and its Environs, iv. 146.
*
Stow, ii. book v. 133.—and Collins's Peerage, i. 235.
Engraven in Dugdale's Hiſtory of St. Paul's, 66.
Rereſhy's Memoirs, 346.
*
CICERO in his Somnium Scipionis.
The ſame.
*
Continuation of Lord Glarendon's Life, 675.
*
Survai [...], 403.
*
See Arct. Zool. Introd.
Stow, ii. book v. 184.
*
Rymer, xi. 498.
*
Mr. Walpole's Anecdotes, i. 83.
The ſame, p. 83, 142.
*
Stow's S [...]rva [...]e, 16.
*
Stow's Annals, 263.
*
Cambden, i. 672.
*
A deſcription of Guinea, 4to. 1665, p. 87.
Tanner's Monaſticon.
§
Stow's Survaie, 443.
See Stow, i. book iii. p. 5.—Albificans, alluding to his name.
*
Stow's Survaie, 445.
The ſame.
H [...]ſ [...]d, 448.
*
Froiſſart, ii. c. 41.
Monfaucon, Mon. Franc. iii. 92.
Mr. Brooke.
*
Journey to London.
Strype's Stow, ii. book v. p. 214.
Dugdale's Baron. i. 218.
*
Richard III. act iii. ſc. vii.
Hol [...]ſhed, 793.
The ſame.
*
Strype's Annals.
Dagdale's Baron, i. 438.
Stow's Survaie, 114.
*
Stow's Survaie, 641.
Dagdale's Baron. i. 362.
*
See my friend Doctor Atkin's Biographical Memoirs of Medicine, octavo, 1 [...]70, which a miſ-judging period diſcouraged him from completing.
*
Stow's Survaie, 130.
*
Parentalia, 266.
The ſame, 272.
*
Dugdale's Monaſt. i. 367; in which both print and verſes are preſerved.— See Dugdale's St. Paul, 134, and Stow's Survaie, 616.
*
Fox's Martyrs, ii. 8 to 14.
Stow, 690.—Kennet, ii. 449.
Dugdale, 17.
*
See Dugdale's St. Paul, p. 143. plates marked 145-6 7-8.
*
Dugdale, 23.—See Boethius de Lapid. et Gem. 184; who treats of the virtues of the ſapphyr.
*
Dugdale's Baron, ii. 259.
Mr. WALPOLE.
*
Memoirs of the Sydnies, p. 109.
*
Athenae Ox [...]n. i. 470.
*
Warton's Hiſt. of Poetry, ii. 390.
*
Stow's Survaie, 641.
Memoires de la fete des foux, pp. 5, 8, 10.
*
Froiſſart, Eng. tranſt. ii. civ.
Holinſhed, 789.
See the ſame, p. 898.
*
Maitland, ii. 880.
The ſame.
*
Praeſul. Angl. 248.—Godwin publiſhed his book in 1616.
*
Holinſhed, 724.
*
Hol [...]ſhed, 724.
*
See Fabian, 515. Holinſhed, 725. Stow's Annals, 451.
Stow's Annals, 483.
*
Weever's Funeral Monuments, 91, 92.
Stowe's [...]urvaie, 591.
Fox's Martyrs
*
Strype's Annals, i. 133.
Wotton's Remains, edit. 3d. p. 193.
*
Stow's Annals, 1033. Hiſt. London, I. book iii. 151.
*
Parentalia, 273.
London and its Environs deſcribed, in ſix vols. 8vo. 1761—Stranger's Guide through London, duod. 1786—Beſides the larger works, ſuch as, Wren's Parentalia—Maitland's London—Strype's edition of Stow, &c.
*
Parentalia, 282.
The ſame, 292.
Maitland, ii.
*
Microcoſmographie, 1628.
Anecdotes of Painting, iii. 150.
*
Parentalia, p. 285.
*
Stow's Survaie, 138,
Collins's Peerage, ii. 53.—Stow, 694.
*
Stow's Survaie, 609, 610.
*
Stow's Survaie, 660.
*
For theſe particulars I am obliged to the civility of Mr. Dent, partner in this great ſhop.
Vol. iii. 410.
*
Of the ſame family with the great Mr. Backwel. He favored me with a beautiful print of his worthy relation, which had been engraven in Holland, after his flight from his profligate country.
Newcourt's Repertertum, i. 424, &c.
Strype's Stow, i. book iii. 107.
*
Strype's Stow, i. book iii. 103.
The ſame, p.
*
Strype's Stow, i. book iii. 106.
Critical Review, &c. 39.
*
Newcourt's Repertorium, i. 437.
*
Stow's Survaie, 485.
Vicar's Parliamentary Chron. 1646, p. 290.
Gray's Hudibras, ii. 233, note.—Conſult alſo the note to L'Hiſt. de l'Entrèe de la Reyne Mere, printed for W. Bowyer, p. 28.
*
Stow's Survaie, 485.
The ſame, 467.
*
Judges, chap. xii. ver. 6.
Henry VI. part ii.
Page of this Work.
*
Stow's Survaie, 48 [...].
In Virgil's time applied to melt the hearts of the cruel fair; afterwards, to waſte the body of any hated perſon.
*
Anecdotes of Painting, iii. 40.
London's Gratitude, &c. 19.
*
The whole account is given in Maitland, i. 341 to 344.
*
A warner was the firſt ſoteltie, and which preceded or gave warning of the courſes. See Leland's Collect. vi. 21.
*
Rev. Mr. Brand's edit. of Bourne's Antiquitates Vulgares, p. 222.
*
Tanner and Newcourt, i. 363.
Newcourt, i. 364.
Stow's Survaie, 493.
*
Tanner.
*
Anderſon's Dict. i. 145.
*
Survaie, 476, 499.
Strype's Stow, i. book i. p. 289.
*
He had two daughters; one married to Sir William Portman, bart. the other to John Robartes, earl of Radnor; both married without his conſent. The firſt died before him. J. C. Brooke, eſq Somerſet-herald.—The ſame authority tells me he had his grant of arms juſt before his death, wherein he is ſtyled, "of the city of Weſtminſter."
Survaie, 4 [...]7.
*
Survaie, 477.
Critical Review, &c. 36, 37.
Ibid. 37.
*
Strype's Stow, i. book ii. p. 137.
*
Anecdotes of Painting, iii. 136.
Wonderful Prophecy, &c.
*
Stow's Survaie, i. 369.
The Same, 374.
*
Tanner.
Strype's Stow, i. book ii. p. 84.86.
*
Strype's Stow, i. book ii. 88.
*
In his Canterbury's Doom, Book ii. p. 113.
*
Herbert's Henry VIII. 67.—Stow's Survaie, 153.
Stow's Survaie, 282, 283.
*
Survaie, 312.—Collins's Coll. Noble Families, 247—8.
*
Strype's Annals, ii. 517.
The loan from the city was only £. 4,900.
*
Strype's Stow, i.
Illuſtrious Heads, i. p. and tab. vii.
*
The epitaph calls him a Merchant-venturer.—Strype's Stow, ii. app. 127. —See more in vol. i. book i. 237, 264—vol. ii. book v. 135—and Stow's Survaie, 319.
*
Strype's Stow, i. book i. 263.—ii. b. v. 62, 63.
Tanner's Monaſt. Oxford.
Wood's Hiſt. Oxford, lib. ii. 302.
The ſame, 314.
*
Miſſon's Travels, iii. 286, 302.
See Crainger, i. 59, 61, for both theſe articles.
*
This little tract was written in 1757; and is reprinted among the Fugitive Pieces, in the 2d volume. Hill was born in 1699.
Proceedings of the Houſe of Commons, &c. vi. 231, 236.
*
Proceedings of the Houſe of Commons, &c. vi. 251.
Survaie, 342,
*
Anderſon, i. 406.
*
Kennet, i. 275.
P. 339.
*
Holinſhed, 968.
Howel's Letters, 56.
Kennet, i. 336, 337.
*
Strype's Stow, i. book ii. p. 114.
*
Theſe were collected and publiſhed in 1692. This little book is a moſt neceſſary companion for all travellers and voyagers.
*
Fabian, book vii. 514.
Stow, ii. book ii. 106.
Rymer's Foed. xv. 105.
§
Stow's Survaie, 332.
*
Whitelock, p. 17.
Whitelock, p. 410.—In the Gentleman's Magazine for June 1787, is an ample account of Sir Paul Pindar; and in the European for April 1787, his character, with a view of his houſe.
*
Kennet's Hiſt. ii. 383.
Anderſon, i. 406.
The ſame, 231.
*
The Aſteriſks mark my authority as from Mr. Anderſon; the reſt are more doubtful, except from the words net income, in the next page.
*
The Aſteriſks mark my authority as from Mr. Anderſon; the reſt are more doubtful, except from the words net income, in the next page.
*
The Aſteriſks mark my authority as from Mr. Anderſon; the reſt are more doubtful, except from the words net income, in the next page.
*
The Aſteriſks mark my authority as from Mr. Anderſon; the reſt are more doubtful, except from the words net income, in the next page.
*
The Aſteriſks mark my authority as from Mr. Anderſon; the reſt are more doubtful, except from the words net income, in the next page.
*
Spectator, No 461.
Stow's Survaie, 384.
Vincent's Diſcoverie, &c. 500.
The ſame.
*
Stow's Survaie, 384.
See the curious particulars in Sir John Fenn's, i. 39, 48, truly ſtated. See alſo Shakeſpeare's Henry VI, part ii. act iv. ſcene 1. and the account of the prophecy in act in i. ſcene 4.
*
Holinſhed, 1132.
*
Du Hamel, ii. 316. tab. i. fig. 1.
*
Du Hamel, ii. 321, tab. i. fig. 5—Bloche, ii. tab. xxx. gives the figure of the Feinte; but is of opinion that the ſpots vaniſh with age. For my part, I have not had opportunities of frequent examination of theſe fiſhes, but I incline to think they are different, as the Feintes appear in ſpawn at the length of ſixteen inches, which is their largeſt ſize.
See Supplement to the Arctic Z [...]ology.
*
There have been Executed in Middleſex and Surry, 35; of which number (7 only) have been reported as ſuch within the Bills of Mortality.
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