CHAP. I. Containing a brief Journal of our Voyage fro [...] Leith to Orkney, and thence to Zetland: [...] likewiſe of our Return from Zetland by Orkne [...] to Caithneſs: Together with a Summary A [...] ⯑count of the remarkable Dangers we were in.

We ſet Sail from Leith.ON Friday 12. April 1700. about ſix a Clock [...] the Morning, we ſet Sail from Leith for Or [...] ⯑ney, the Wind fair tho faint, which not being a [...] to bear us up againſt the Tide, we dropt Anchor t [...] Miles Eaſt of Inch-keith, where we lay from Ten t [...] three in the Afternoon, when a Brisk-gale ariſing, [...] weighed Anchor, and Sailed down the Firth, the Sh [...] making ſo good way, that before next Morning at bre [...] of Day, we were paſt Montroſs.

On Saturday the Wind leſſened, yet about St [...] ſet we paſt Peterhead, Steering towards the point Kinnaird, leaving the Bridges of Ratray (a ridge of B [...] Rocks) on our Larboard. Next Morning, being [...] Lords Days, with a gentle Wind, we made the [...] of our way through Murray Firth, Paſs Mur⯑ray Firth. ſpending the [...] in Religious Exerciſes with the Mariners and ſo Paſſengers in company with us. When before Pe [...] head we ſaw the fins of a great Fiſh, about an y [...] above the Water, which they call a Pricker; Alſo ab [...] Ten at Night, a Whale was ſeen by the help of Mo [...] ⯑light, at a little diſtance from our Ship, caſting fo [...] the Water in a hideous manner.

[5]Next Morning about Seven a Clock we got ſight [...] Orkney, and the Wind blowing ſome what harder, [...]en it had done the former Night, in the Afternoon [...] paſſed the Eaſt end of Pightland Firth, Land in Orkney. which though [...]inarily raging with the impetuous current of a Sea, [...] reaſon of the many Tides meeting there, yet we [...]nd it not ſo, but in the midſt of that part we paſ⯑ [...], dined upon Deck, ſo meeting with leaſt danger, [...]ere we feared the greateſt. We put in to Holms⯑ [...]nd and arrived there about Seven at Night, on the [...]onday after our ſetting ſail.

The Ship's Crew told us,The Voy⯑age favo⯑rable. that tho they had fre⯑ [...]ently Sailed theſe Seas to and from Orkney, yet never [...]d they a better or pleaſanter Voyage: Which Pro⯑ [...]dential favour was the more obſervable, the Wind [...]xt Day after we Landed, blowing ſtrong from the [...]orth and laſting ſeveral Days. Which if it had come [...], before we had accompliſhed our Voyage, we [...]ould not only have been blown back to sea, but [...]ereby a tempeſt ariſing, we had been in no ſmall [...]nger. We deſired to look upon this as a ſignal Mercy, [...]d a token for good.

We would have hired our Bark, to Zetland, but [...]e Maſter being under Charter-party,We forced to hire an open Boat from Ork⯑ney to Zet⯑land. was obliged to [...]turn with a fraught of Victual to Leith, and not [...]ving the occaſion of any other Ship or Bark, we [...]ere forc't to hire one of theſe open Boats of about ſix⯑ [...] Meils which the Orkney Men uſe for carrying Victual [...] Zetland, elſe we could not go for Zetland this ſea⯑ [...]n, tho the Miniſters and others told us our Paſſage [...]ight prove dangerous.

Our ſtay in Kirkwal, the chief Town in Orkney, aſſiſting that Presbytery in ſome of their affairs] was [...]om the 16. to the 27. of April, when with 3. Mi⯑niſters of this Country on the Commiſſion, we took [...]oat for Sanda about 30.We go for Sanda from Kirkwall Miles North-Eaſt from Kirk⯑wal, and in our way to Zetland, having ordered our own Boat to follow with the firſt fair Wind. We put [6] off about two in the Afternoon, the Men rowing wit [...] ſix Oars about half way, when the Wind riſing ſome⯑thing favourable with a little Sail and 4. Oars we go [...] over Stronza Firth. Tho as we came near our landin [...] place in Sanda, the increaſing Wind raiſed the wave ſo high, that ſometimes they intercepted the ſight [...] the Iſland. Yet we got all ſafe on ſhore betwixt [...] and 10. at Night. The Mercy of our eſcape was th [...] more remarkable, that our Boat was throng'd wit [...] Paſſengers; and ſo overloaden that the Water came al⯑moſt to her brim; ſo that if the Sea had not bee [...] ſmooth and calm, when we paſt throw Stronza Firth we had been probably all loſt: As theſe who had know⯑ledge of thoſe Seas did afterwards declare unto us.

Go from Sanda to Eda.We waited in Sanda for a Wind from April 27 till May 9. when the Wind preſenting, we went t [...] the Iſle of Eda lying a little to the Weſt of Sanda where our Boat was, but before we could get aboard the Wind ſhifted to South-Eaſt and then to Eaſt an [...] by South, which was too ſcrimp to fetch Zetland; how⯑ever the Wind now being very changeable, we judge [...] it expedient for us to ly near our Boat and lay hold o [...] the firſt occaſion: So May 11. the Wind at South-Ea [...] we put to Sea, but ſcarce well were we without t [...] Red-Head of Eda, when the Wind proving contrary we returned to Calf-Sound May 12. being the Lord's Day we ſpent in Religious Exerciſes with the Peopl [...] of the Iſle; in the Evening the Wind turning fair, we reſolved next Morning early to get Aboard, if the Wind held. This laſt Night, after we returned to Calf-Sound, was terrible for Wind and Rain from the Weſt, the Wind ſoon altering, after we had got it again to Calf-Sound) with which we could not have kept the Sea, in all probability. A great Mercy the [...] it was, that we were determined to return, and did not keep the Sea, as ſome adviſed, for tho within half an hour after we had got in to the Sound, the Wind [7] turned fair, yet being too ſtrong, the Sea became foul [...]ad tempeſtuous, which was not for our open Boat.

Munday Morning May 13. about two of the Clock, [...]e were called to go Aboard which we did according⯑ [...], the Wind at Weſt or Weſt and by North, the [...]ale was brisk, but not very great, which we were [...]lad of, thereby expecting a ſpeedy paſſage:Putting off from Eda, we in great danger. So we [...]ith two other Boats in Company looſed, but ſcarce [...]ere we a League without the Heads, we ſaw a ſtorm [...]f Wind and Rain making in the Weſt, whence the Wind blew, wherupon one of the Boatmaſters in com⯑ [...]any, adviſed us to tack about, and endeavour to [...]etch Calf-Sound again, which counſel we judging to be [...]afe, accordingly eſſayed to follow it, but the Wind [...]nd Sea riſing more boiſterous and the Current of the [...]bb being ſtrong from the Sound, we could not by any means effectute our deſign, tho we made ſeveral Trips [...]ot without danger; the Sea with its broken and ſwel⯑ [...]ing waves threatening to ſwallow us up every mo⯑ment: The Mariners ſtood by their ſails, crying, This work was very dangerous, and at one time, as one of them obſerved, the Boat had taken in about 10. Barrels of Water, the Pump was ſtill kept going, we [...]udged our ſelves to be loſt Men, and ſome expreſſed [...]o much. In theſe ſtraits we deſired the Boatmaſter [...]itting by the Helm, to ſee if he could make any other Harbour or Bay; He anſwered, God have Mercy upon [...]s, for the Sea we dare not keep, and there is not [...]nother Harbour in Orkney we can make, The Men were fatigued with the toil of their hard work, and [...]lmoſt at the giving over. We then knew to our experience the meaning of that Scripture Pſ. 107.27. of Seamen in a ſtorm's being at their wits end. Tho the Wind was fair for Zetland, yet we durſt not hold on our Courſe, the Sea not only being tempeſtuous, but we had alſo ſeveral Rouſts or impetuous Tides to paſs, and then the Ebb was in the Sea, which made them ſo much the more dangerous. Thus ſtreitened, we [8] thought it adviſeable, to go down with ſome Sail be⯑fore the Wind to the North end of Sanda▪ & endea⯑vour to get in to Otterſwick or Taphneſs Bay, Get in to a Bay. we fir [...] attempted Otterſwick, and leſt we ſhould have been blow [...] by the Bay's mouth, we held ſo near Land, that th [...] Boat beat ſeveral times upon a Rock, however we go [...] in and drop't Anchor on the weatherſide of the ſhore.

Go to Sea again.We were all much refreſhed with this great delive⯑rance from ſo imminent a danger. When we had rid⯑den ſome hours at Anchor, the Wind and Sea calmed About 7, at Night one of the Boatmaſters in company who had entred the Bay a little before us, weighed An⯑chor and put to Sea again. Some of our number we [...] for lying ſtill, till the Weather was better ſetteld others thought that ſeeing God had commanded a Calm that we had a favorable Wind, that the skie appeared t [...] be well ſet and promiſing, and that the other Loade⯑ned Boat had gone to Sea before us, it might ſeen from theſe things Providence invited us to Sea again [...] Whereupon we put off, but before we had come th [...] length of North Ronalſha, ſcarce a League diſtant from the Bay, we had been in, the Wind became ſo faint that the Mariners took them to their Oars, to help them through North Ronalſha Rouſt, thence when w [...] came to Dennis Rouſt, we made ſome way with our Sail without Oars, the Tide then turning and the Flood be⯑ginning to run in the Sea.

Blown back by contrary Winds to Stronza.Tueſday May 14. about 1. or 2 in the Morning th [...] Wind ſhifted to Eaſt South Eaſt, then to Eaſt, an [...] our Boatmaſter telling us, that he was forced to ſte [...] a Northern Courſe, elſe he could not bear Sail, an [...] ſo holding on, not a ſtone in Zetland he could hit, a [...] he expreſſed himſelf, we all judged it moſt prop [...] to return to Orkney: When we had tacked about, th [...] Wind ſhifted to North Eaſt, a ſtrong Gale together wit [...] great Rains, which cauſed a rolling and a ſwelling Se [...] (for Rains here without Winds do raiſe, or canker (as they terme it) the Sea, and much more when Win [...] [9] and Rain come on at once) however we got in ſafely to Stronza Road, which was the readieſt we could make. It was a happy Providence that we then returned at that nick of time, for the Flood not being all ſpent, we were thereby likewiſe haſtened in our way, ſo that within a few hours we came to our Port, tho as was reckoned, we were near mid-way between Orkney and Fair Iſle. The ſtorm increaſed with the Day, and after our landing it was ſo very great, that we were oblig⯑ed to keep within doors, for ſeveral hours; And if then we had been at Sea, it is terrible for us to think upon the diſmal effects which might have fol⯑lowed thereupon, for without all peradventure, we had certainly periſhed, if the Lord by ſome wonder of mercy had not reſcued us, as indeed he had former⯑ly done. ‘O that we would praiſe the Lord for his Goodneſs, and for his wonderful works to the Chil⯑dren of Men, And that ſo long as we live, we may never forget, the 13th. and 14th. Days of May, wherein the Lord wrought a great deliverance for us.’

Thus being diſcouraged,Tho diſ⯑couraged with dang⯑ers, we yet reſolve to go for Zetland. we were in great per⯑plexity, not knowing, what to do, Whether to make any further attempt, or to return home, re infecta, ſeeing God in his Providence had ſo croſſed us hith⯑erto, and it might be his mind, we ſhould not go for⯑ward. Upon theſe fluctuating and perplexing thoughts, we askt God's mind in the matter, after which more light did ariſe, and we unaminouſly reſolved yet to trie, what the Lord would do with us.

Fryday May 17. between 8. and 9. in the morning,We arrive at Lerwick in Zet⯑land. Wind and skie promiſing well, we put to Sea, and paſſed the Fair Iſle about 5. Afternoon, keeping it on our Starboard, then our Gale increaſing, but con⯑tinuing fair, at South-Weſt, we made good way. A⯑bout Midnight we paſt Swinburgh Head, the ſouthern-moſt point of Land in Zetland, having thence 24. Miles to Sail up within Land to Lerwick, whether we were bound. The Wind growing more vehement, we [10] lowed our Mainſail, and took in a Riff; With the break⯑ing of the Day, there aroſe a Miſt, whereby we could ſcarce ſee Land, however we judged it ſafeſt, to keep as near it, as we could, and ſailed away by the Coaſt; but being to paſs through a Sound having the Iſle of Muſa on our Starboard and Burra Land on our Larboard,A danger eſcaped. our Seamen miſtook the point of Muſa, tak⯑ing another point in the Mainland for it, and the Miſt lying on, we were almoſt engaged in the Land, and ſo would have fallen among rocks, which they coming to ſuſpect, held to Sea, reſolving to Sail without the point which they did with difficulty, the Boat being ſo cloſe haled, and the blaſt great, that the Helm-a-lee, was ſcarce able to command her and keep her by the Wind: Which when they had done, came to diſcover their Errour. Hence ſailing through Muſa Sound, we came to Braſſa Sound, and arrived at Lerwick on Sa⯑turday about 4. in the Morning.

Some re⯑markable Provi⯑dences by the way.We had a quick paſſage, ſailing about 100. Miles in 19. or 20. hours time: Eſpecially conſidering, that we were not half an hour on ſhore, when a ſtrong Wind blew from the North, which if it had come on but a little Soonner▪ we would have been driven back to Sea. There is likewiſe another Providence remark⯑able, that we had only an ordinary deſirable Gale, when we paſſed the Fair Iſle, where always there goes a great rolling Sea, but when within the Heads of the Land of Zetland, we had it very ſtrong, ſo that ſcarce⯑ly we could have wreſtled and held out againſt it in the Ocean.

We leave Zetland, and arrives at Kirk⯑wall in Orkney.We arrived in Zetland May 18. and having brought to ſome Period and Cloſe our principal work there, we ſet Sail for Orkney, June 11. ſaluting and bidding heartily farewell to the Miniſters, and ſome Gentle⯑men of the Countrey and to the moſt conſiderable In⯑habitants of Lerwick, who kindly accompanied us to our Boat. We left Zetland Teuſday June 11. about 5 Afternoon, and having the Wind at North-Weſt or [11] North Weſt and by North we paſſed the Start Head of [...]anda about 4. next Morning, and endeavouring to [...]et in to Ketteltaft in Sanda, A danger eſcaped. to put one of the Mini⯑ [...]ters of that Iſle aſhore; our Boat through our Boat-maſters inadvertency ſtruck on a rock, without ſuſ⯑taining any dammage, we knew; But the Wind not per⯑mitting to turn up to that Road, we all came to Kirk⯑val, and arrived there before 9 in the morning. Our [...]aſtage from Zetland to Orkney, was yet quicker, then [...]t was from Orkney to Zetland, we being but 16. hours [...]n running 120. or as ſome ſay, 128. Miles. Staying [...]n Orkney a few days,Paſs Pightland Firth to Ca [...]thneſs, and thence home by Land. we paſſed Pightland Firth to Caith⯑ [...]eſs, and having diſpatched our work in conjunction with the Presbytery there; we came home by Land, [...]epairing with joy to our ſeveral Charges, Where we may ſet up our EbenEzer, ſaying, Hitherto hath the Lord helped us.

I think we are called ſeriouſly to reflect upon the Man⯑ [...]er of the Lord's dealing with us,Some Re⯑flections upon the dangers we had been in. we have been long detained and croſſed in our way to Zetland, tho we made ſeveral attempts to goe forward; As to our Com⯑miſſion we were appointed by the General Aſſembly of this Church, and it being put upon us without any deſire of ours, or inclination that way, we accordingly un⯑detrook our Voyage, and came with a favourable Gale to Orkney: It is true, that there are natural cauſes of Wind and Rain, whereof we are to make a Spiritual improvement, eſpecially when they do impede or pro⯑mote our deſigne; Moreover Gods Judgements are a great depth, and by the courſe of Nature, in giving greater or leſſer Winds at his pleaſure, he may carry on his more General Works of Providence, and yet thereby more eſpecially intend the puniſhment of the wicked, or the Chaſtiſement of his People, which they are called to conſider and improve: And as true it is, God in his Wiſe Soveraignity may ſo deal wi [...]h his People, for the trial of their Faith and other Graces, that they may be ſtill and know that he is God, ruling [12] as he pleaſeth among the Children of Men: The Devil alſo, who is the Prince of the power of the Air may have an evil and malicious hand in things of this nature Eſpecially when Men purpoſe to do good, which tends to the overthrow of his Kingdom. O that what we have met with may be ſo bleſſed, as to render us more zealous againſt him and all Sin, whereby his Kingdom is eſtabliſhed in the World, That we may fight with Devil [...] and be more then Conquerours through him who loveth us. I ſay tho theſe things and the like ſometimes may and ought to be had a regard unto, yet I do humbly judge that upon theſe ſo very dreadful dangers we have in great mercy eſcaped, we are called to examine our⯑ſelves, and ſearch unto our Sins as we are Christians and as we are Miniſters, for which the Lord may have a controverſie with us; Our not being ſo faithful in our perſonal and paſtoral work, in working out our oun [...] and others Salvation; Our impatience in not waiting the Lords time, but being too anxious to be in Zetland at any rate: And it is like in our not being ſo ſingle in our ends in goeing, as we ought to be &c. I con⯑clude this Chap. As the Pſalmiſt doth Pſ. 107. Re⯑flecting on the Wonders of Providence, Who is wiſe, and will obſerve thoſe things: Even they ſhall underſtand the loving kindneſse of the LORD.

CHAP. II. A Deſcription of Orkney, its Situation, Name firſt Planters, Language, manners of the People, Wholeſomeneſs of the Air, Corns &c.

THE Iſles belonging to Scotland have commonly been divided into three Claſſes; The Weſtern, ſcaattered in the Deucaledonian Ocean, The Iſles belonging to Scot⯑land divi⯑ded into three Claſ⯑ſes on the Weſt; the Orkney and Zetlandick, both lying to the North of Scotland. As to the Weſtern Iſles, tho in number far exceeding both the Iſles of Orkney and Zetland, yet I take no notice thereof, in the ſubſequent Deſcriptione: [13] [...]r Commiſſion not being deputed thither, ſo only the [...]tter ſhall I give ſome breif account of, not intending [...] advance any thing, but what I have either found [...] be true from my own obſervation, or had by good [...]formation from ſenſible and grave Perſons worthy of [...]edit; And ſhall begin with Orkney as order requireth, [...]e firſt Landing there.

Orkney lyes to the North of Scotland, The Situ⯑ation of Orkney. bounded on [...]e Weſt by the Deucaledonian Ocean; on the Eaſt, by [...]e German; On the North, by the Sea, which divides Orkney from Zetland; And on the South, by Pightland [...]rth, 12 Miles broad, from Dungiſbie-Head or John [...]rot's Houſe, the Northermoſt Houſe in Scotland to [...]urwick in South-Ronaldſha, the Southernmoſt point of Orkney. It is commonly ſaid to be about the 59th de⯑gree of Latitude at Kirkwal which lyes within the Coun⯑ [...]ey; tho the Southmoſt point of South-Ronaldſha, is [...]iſtant from the Northernmoſt of North-Ronaldſha, [...]ear a degree.

That Orkney or Orcades is the name of theſe Iſles,Concern⯑ing the Name [...] agreed in, by ancient and modern Writers, But of [...]he Etymologie and whence the name is derived, none [...] ſuppoſe will be found to give a ſatisfying account. Some alledging it to come from Orcas, which Ptolomy reckons to be a Promontory of Caithneſs, oppoſite to Orkney; Others from the Greek word [...] Coerceo, theſe Iſles breaking and reſtraining the force of the rage⯑ing Waves: Or from Hurricano, becauſe of the boiſter⯑ous Winds and Hurricanes which often blow in this Countrey: Or from Erick or Orkenwald, or ſome other Pictiſh Prince famous there at its firſt Plantation. Which derivations, ſome of them at leaſt cannot but appear far fetcht to the thinking Reader:Injuriâ Temporis multa in oblivione jacent ſep⯑ulta. And indeed many in giving the Reaſons of names, do rather pleaſe their own Curioſity, then render a true account of their Origin⯑al; ſeing the Reaſons generally of the Ancient Names of Countries are buried in oblivion, through the want of Writers, and neglect of the firſt Inhabitants, eſpecially [14] in theſe parts of the World, wherein Learning more ſlowly advanced.

The 1ſt Po⯑ſſeſſors of the Count⯑rey.The firſt Planters, and Poſſeſſours of the Countrey ſeem to have been the Picts, there being ſeveral old Houſes, both here and in Zetland, which to this Day are called Picts or Pights Houſes, and the Firth between Orkney and Caithneſs, is ſtill called [...]ight-land Firth; Whereupon ſome of our Hiſtorians, as Boethius, Writing of the Iſles of Orkney, doth obſerve,) deſign Orkney, the moſt ancient Kingdom of the Picts; Boeth Hiſt de orchad. Orchades inſulae, antiquiſſimum Pictorum Regnum a quibuſdam nostrarum rerum Scriptoribus vocitatae. And we find mention made of the Kings of Orkney, Buchan. Hiſto, on Ewen. 2. at Buchanan tells us of one Belus who having Invaded Scotland, was defeated and put to Flight by Ewen 2d. King of Scots, Killing moſt of his Army, upon which Belus being much diſcouraged and broken in Spirit, deſpairing of life, put hand in himſelf,Both Hiſt. Lib. 2. and became his own Executioner. Boethius calls him Balus; Balus autem Orchadum Rex fractus animo, deſperatâ Salute, ne in hostium poteſtatem ventret, manum fibi intulit. And in the Church of Birſa at the Weſt end of the Mainland in Orkney, there is a long Stone yet ſtanding erect, with the name Belus inſcribed there⯑on in ancient Characters; Probably this was the Place of his Interment. Alſo the Miniſter of Sandwick's Manſe is ſaid to have been the Reſidence of one of the Kings of Picts, and therefore to this Day is called Kon⯑ing [...]gar, or the Kings Houſe; And that part of the Manſe, which they ſay ſerved for the Palace of a King▪ is ſo litle, tho now keept in ſome Repair, that it could not accommodate a Family of an ordinary rank; The Figure thereof and contrivance of its two Rooms or Chambers one above and another below, of narrow di⯑menſions, are antick, and the Building hath been but courſe. Boethius likewayes tels of another King called Banus, whom Claudius-Caeſar having ſubdued, anno Christi 43. He carried him with his Wife, and Children Cap⯑tive [15] to Rome, and were led by him in Triumph: Buch⯑ [...]nan queſtiones the truth of this Hiſtory,Buchan Hiſt. in vitam Ca⯑rataci. Tacitus af⯑ [...]irming that part of Britain then to have been altogether [...]nknown to the Romans, nec temere tamen crediderim quod [...]oſtri tradunt Scriptores &c. quod Tacitus affirmet ante [...]ulij Agricola adventum, Kenneth. 2. expel⯑leth the Picts. See Bu⯑chan. Hiſt. in vitam Ken. 2. Quietiſſi⯑me vixit promotis finibus ab Orcadum Inſulis uſque ad Vallum Adriani. The Nor⯑vegians obtain poſſeſſione of the Iſles, and are expel⯑led thence by Alexr- 3. King of Scots. Act. 13. Parlia. 2 Charles 2. anno 1669 the Earle of Mor⯑tons Wed ſet reduced by Act of Parlia⯑ment Mr. Wal⯑lace his De⯑ſcription of of Orkney; eam Britannia partem Romanus [...]no incognitum fuiſſe. But if Boethius his Relation be [...]rue, the vanquiſhing of Orkney hath been reputed ſome⯑thing conſiderable, ſeeing not to every Conquerour was [...]llowed by the Roman Senate, the Glory of a Triumph.

It is alſo probable, the Government of theſe Iſles continued with the Pictiſh Princes, till the Dayes of Kenneth 2d. King of Scots, a Warlick Prince, who having prevailed with his Nobles contrairy to their own inclin⯑ [...]tion, by a notable peice of craft, to engage in a War againſt the Picts, with an undaunted valour and courage, routed the Pictiſh Army and waſted their Countrey with Fire and Sword, purſueing them to the Orkney Iſles which he then annexed to the Crown of Scotland, reign⯑ [...]ng from Orkney to Adrian's Wall Anno Dom. 854. Thence Orkney continued in the Poſſeſſion of the Scots, till the Dayes of Donald Bane, about the Year 1099, who that he might ſecure the Kingdom to himſelf, promiſ⯑ed the Iſles to Magnus King of Norway, if he would aſſiſt [...]im with a neceſſary force; Which offer Magnus accept⯑ [...]ng, the Norvegians became Maſters of the Iſles, till Alexander. 3d. about the Year 1263 Recovered them by [...]xpelling the Norvegians; Which ever ſince were poſſeſſ⯑ed and diſpoſed of by our Kings. To be breif, at length William Douglas Earl of Mortoun got a Wadſet of Orkney and Zetland from King Charles the firſt, Which Wadſet with all the Rights, Contracts, Infeftments &c. There⯑ [...]nto appertaining, was reduced by a Decreet of the Lords of Seſſion, obtained at the inſtance of his Majesties Advocate againſt William Douglas alſo Earl of Mortoun Grandchild to the foreſaid Earl, February 1669. which Decreet was ratified and confirmed by Act of Parliament, [...]he December following, erecting the Earldom of Ork⯑ney [16] and Lordſhip of Zetland into a Stewartry to be calle [...] in all time comeing the Stewartry of Orkney and Zetland The reaſon comonly given, why the Earl of Morto [...] loſt the Wadſet, was becauſe ſome Cheſts of Gol [...] were Seiſed by the Earls Deputs in Zetland, got out o [...] a rich Ship, called the Carmelan of Amsterdam, caſt awa [...] there Anno 1664; None of this Gold coming to th [...] Kings Theſaury, tho ſome of it, as was alledged, cam [...] to the Earls hands.

The Con⯑try of Ork⯑ney and Zet⯑land reck⯑oned con⯑ſiderable and the Ti⯑tle honour able.From our Hiſtory we may know, that Orkney an [...] Zetland have been reckoned ſo great and conſiderable a part of his Majesties Ancient Kingdom, that for dive [...] ages they occaſioned much expence of Blood and Trea⯑ſure, for the maintaining thereof againſt the Invaſion [...] Foreiners, and recovering the ſame out of their hand by Arms and Treaties. The Title likewayes of the [...] Iſles hath ſtill been reputed honourable, hence it hat [...] pleaſed Our preſent King to confer this Title of Earl [...] Orkney, upon Lord George Hamilton, Brother to his Gra [...] the 'Duke of Hamilton, for good ſervices done by hi [...] to his Majeſties Perſon and Government.

The ſtate of the Con⯑trey conſi⯑dered; the People per⯑ſonable and hoſpitable, Their Clo⯑thes.I proceed to conſider the preſent ſtate of the Coun⯑trey. The People here are Perſonable and comely, an [...] many of them, as I obſerved, are of a Ruddy complex [...] ⯑on, which may be by reaſon of the Sea Air and their fre⯑quent Fiſh-diet, ſuch a colour and countenance as o [...] Mariners uſe to have and retain for ſome Dayes afte [...] they are come from Sea: They are generally Hoſpitab [...] and civil, giving kind and humane entertainment t [...] Strangers, which we found to our experience. Bot [...] Men and Women are faſhionable in their cloths, [...] Men here uſe Plaids, as they do in our Highlands; [...] the North Iſles of Sanda Weſtra &c. Many of the Cou [...] ⯑trey People wear a peice of a Skin, as of a Seale, comon called a Selch, Calf or the like, for Shoes, which th [...] faſten to their Feet with ſtringes or thongs of Leathe [...] Their Houſes are in good order, and well furniſh [...] according to their qualities.

[17]They generally ſpeak Engliſh, neither do I think,Their Lang⯑uage. [...]hey have ſo much of the Northern Accent, as in ma⯑ [...]y places of the North of Scotland, yet ſeveral of the [...]ſles have ſome Words and Phraſes peculiar to them⯑ſelves. There are alſo ſome who ſpeak Norſe eſpecial⯑ [...] in the Mainland, as in the Pariſh of Hara there are a [...]w yet living, who can ſpeak no other thing, this [...]anguage not being quite extinct among them, ſince [...]e Norvegians whoſe Language it is,The Air wholſome had this Countrey [...] poſſeſſion. And tho Caithneſs be near to Orkney, yet none [...]n Orkney can ſpeak Iriſh, tho the greateſt part in Caith⯑neſs can; Nor any in Caithneſs ſpeak Norſe, tho ſome in Orkney yet can do it.

The Air as it is peircing and cold,Hence ma⯑ny old Perſons. ſo it is free and [...]ealthy; Hence many arrive at a good old Age: One [...] Evie brought forth a Child in the 63 Year of her [...]ge, as the Miniſter who had enquired thereunto, de⯑ [...]lared: A Man in the Pariſh of Holm, who died not many Years ſince, lived with his Wife in a conjugal [...]ate above 80 Years; as the preſent Miniſter of the [...]lace informed me: A Gentleman in Stronſa, who died [...]bout two Years ſince, was begotten of his Father when [...]00 Years old, this was atteſted by the Miniſters who [...]new the truth thereof. One William Muir in Westra lived [...]40 Years, and died about 16 Years agoe, by a de⯑ [...]ay of Natures heat and vigour, incident to ſuch an in⯑ [...] decrepit age, without any ordinary Sickneſs, as a Gentleman in theſe bounds well acquainted with him, old me.They ſub⯑ject to the Scurvy. The diſeaſe they are moſt obnoxious unto [...] the Scurvey, occaſioned, as is judged, by the Sea⯑ [...]ir, Fiſhes, Saltmeats &c. It is obſerved likewayes that [...] is colder in the Summer time, then it is with us in [...]e South, but warmer in the Winter, the Snow not [...]ſing to ly long; For (beſide other things that might [...]e ſaid on this head,The temp⯑erament of their Cli⯑mate. which alſo reſpect other Countreys) [...]n the Summer cold breezes come off the Sea, which [...]empers the heat; And in the Winter ſeaſon the ſame [...]eezes may qualify the extreme cold and froſt, which [18] uſeth to be greateſt, when the Air is moſt quieſcent, a [...] leaſt diſturbed with Winds; The great motion alſo of [...] rapid Tides may contribute not a litle thereunto.

Their Corns and Bread.Their ordinary grains are Oats and Barley, and [...] other grains ſhould be ſown, the product would [...] be great if any at all, they not taking with ſuch a w [...] and cold ſoil, and the many briniſh blaſts theſe Iſles expoſed unto. As for Wheat-bread it is rare and ſca [...] to be had, if not at Kirkwal and ſome Gentlemen Houſes, who bring the flour from Murray or the So [...] of Scotland. As for their Oats and Barley, the gra [...] is leſs and blacker, then it is with us: Yea tho th [...] ſhould bring good and fair ſeed from other Countrey [...] within a few years it would degenerate and beco [...] like their own; which is the reaſon why their Me [...] and Bread are of ſuch a black colour. Yet in ſome pl [...] ⯑ces the Meal is whiter, and ſaid to be better then others. Their not being ſo diligent in winnowi [...] their Corns, nor having ſuch good Mills for grind [...] as we have, may be partly the cauſe thereof. In ſo [...] place alſo they uſe not to ſhear their Corn, but pluc [...] it up by the roots, as we do the Lint, becauſe of t [...] ſcarcity of fodder to their beaſts, which Corns if o [...] taken pains upon, will abound with ſand and dul [...] Nevertheleſs for ought I hear or know, their Brea [...] and Ale are wholeſome, and the Natives take we with them. I thought; firſt when we Landed in Orkne [...] their Oat bread and Fleſhes alſo, had ſome Fiſh-taſte but when we had tarried ſome Days there, we we [...] not ſo ſenſible of it.

The na⯑ture of the Soil, and the Product thereof.Their arable ground is better and more fertile, the [...] at firſt to ſtrangers appeareth, whence I heard ſo [...] Gentlemen declare, It was wonderful to think, ho [...] great the product of theſe Iſles is conſidering the man barren mountains and much waſte ground that are i [...] them. They dung their Land for the moſt part wit [...] Sea-ware, which having gathered, they ſuffer to rot [...] either on the Coaſts, or by carrying it up to the Lan [...] [19] on Horſes or on their backs, they lay it in heaps, the time of labouring approach; Which is the rea⯑ [...], why the skirts of the Iſles are more ordinarily [...]tivated, and do more abound with Corns, then [...]ces at a greater diſtance from the Sea, where they [...]ve not ſuch gooding at hand. Their Ploughs are [...]tle and light, having only one ſtilt, and but little [...]n in them; hence when at the end of the ridge, [...] who holds it lifts it up and carries it to the other [...]le of the ridge, and if he pleaſe may carry it home [...] his ſhoulders: The reaſon they give of this is, that [...]hough ſome of their ground be ſtrong, yet their [...]aſts are weak and unable to go through with a plough any conſiderable weight.

Their Horſes, Kine, Sheep,Concer⯑ning their Cattel and their price: Lambs &c. are of a [...]ſſer ſize then with us, and are to be bought at an [...]ſ [...]er rate, for a good Cow will be had for 5lib. Scots, [...]r 4. ib. 16 ib, at which price they are obliged to ſell [...]er at K [...]kwal about Martinmaſs. A good Wedder [...]r 20ſh. Scots. A Hen for 2ſh. or 2ſh. 6d. &c. The Sheep here are generally wild, therefore when [...]hey would have them taken, they ordinarily do it by Dogs trained for the purpoſe, the Owner of the Sheep giving to the Maſter of the Dog 2ſhill. Scots for each [...]me that is taken, and it they be not ſo wild but 1 ſhill. Some Husband Men told us, they would rather la⯑bour their Land over again, then take their Sheep when they would have them waſhen and ſhorn; I ſaw young Man come from the hills wet and weary, hav⯑ [...]ng a long time purſued one to kill for our uſe. Their Kine are of divers colours, ſome white, others of [...]a pyed, ſome red, others red and white &c.No Ri⯑vers, but ſome Brooks here, which cauſe their Mills to go. So that [...] think, there are as many of theſe colours, as are of a black. They have no Rivers, no place of the Land, being above 2 or 3. Miles diſtant from the Sea, there⯑fore they draw water out of wells for their Cattel, or drives them to Lochs or Lakes, ſome whereof they [20] have, or to ſome ſmall brooks which run from the Lochs: Which Lochs likewiſe cauſe their Mills to go.

Plenty of Cattel Butter and Milk.They have abundance of Cattel in many places whereby is afforded them plenty of Milk, which yeeld⯑eth much Butter, ſome whereof is very good, yellow and ſweet, but that which is called Orkney Butter▪ Edinburgh. is only their Farm-Butter, which they a [...] obliged to pay to the Taxmen or Maſters, whereof quantity according to compact and agreement bein [...] gathered, they are at little or no trouble to make a [...] keep it clean. Their Sheep alſo are very fruitful, ma [...] of them having two, and ſome three at a birth, which as Mr. Wallace lately,Boeth Hiſt. de Orcad. ſo Boethius of old did obſerve [...] Oves illic pene omnes geminos, immo trigeminos pleraeq [...] partus edunt.

Their Fishes.Fiſhes of divers ſorts are taken in great plenty, y [...] not ſo numerous as formerly, for now before the catch their great fiſhes as Keelling, Ling &c. the muſt put far out into the Sea with their little boats, an [...] thereby undergo great danger, which in former time they uſed to get nearer the Coaſts: However ſuch [...] number is taken, that beſide what ſerves for their own ſupply, many are ſent abroad to other Countrys fo [...] ſale. Particularly there are grey fiſhes, called Silluks ſcarce half ſo big as a Herring generally, which ſwee [...] and are taken in great numbers upon the Coaſts, [...] that ſometimes they will ſell 1000. of them for 6. or ſtill. Scots. This fiſh is pleaſant to the taſte, and alſo they ſay very wholeſome, which ſeems to be confir⯑med by this, that in the late years of great ſcarcity the poorer People lived upon them, almoſt as thei [...] only food, they often not enjoying a crum of Bread ſo many Weeks. So our good God, on the ſhutting o [...] one door, opened another in his holy and wiſe Provi⯑dence for the relief of the poor.

Herrings.Herrings do ſweem here in abundance, which for⯑merly occaſioned ſeveral Ships frequenting theſe Iſles but ſince the Battle of Kilsyth, they ſay, that Trad [...] [21] [...]th failed; many of the Enſter Men, who were ordi⯑ [...]ry fiſhers upon theſe Coaſts, being killed there. [...]hen I was in Papa Weſtra, they pointed out to me a [...]olm upon the Eaſt ſide of the Iſle, where I ſaw the [...]ines of ſome Huts or little Houſes, whereunto theſe [...]nſter Men ſometimes reſorted, during the Herring⯑ [...]hing. A Gentleman living in this Iſle told me, that [...]e former Year 1699, there was a great quantity of [...]erring Sperm or Spawn driven upon the ſhore, and [...]y there for ſome time in heaps; which evidenceth [...]at Herrings in their ſeaſon, are yet on theſe Coaſts: [...]o means be not uſed to take them.

Beſide the many other excellent fiſhes, as Keeling,Many other good Fishes. [...]ing, Scate, Turbot, and ſometimes they ſay Stur⯑ [...]eon &c. there are alſo many Shell fiſhes taken; as Lobſters ſold for an half penny or 4 pen. Scots; Oiſters [...]uch bigger then with us, for 4 ſhill. Scots per 100. [...]artens and Muſſels; and Cockles in ſo great plenty, [...]hat they make much good Lime of their ſhells,Lime made of Cockle shells. beſide which they have no other Lime in Orkney, ſave what [...]hey bring from the South.

They have plenty both of Land and Sea Fowls:Plenty of Fowls. as Eagles, Hawks, Ember-Gooſe, Claik-Gooſe, Dun⯑ [...]er-Gooſe, Solen-Gooſe, Swans, Lyres, Scarffs, Keriwaiks, [...]lover, Muir-Fowl, Duck and Drake &c. The King's Falconer uſeth to go every year to theſe [...]ſles, taking the young Hawks and Falcons to breed, and every Houſe in the Countrey is obliged to give him a Hen or a Dog, except ſuch as are exempted. The Eagles do much hurt to the young ſtore, falling doun upon their Lambs and Hens, and taking them away with them to their Neſts, Killing and pulling out the eyes and hearts of their Sheep; Hence there is an Act ſtanding in the Steward's books, that whoever ſhall kill an Eagle, ſhall have a Hen out of every Houſe of the Pariſh, where he is killed; yet notwithſtanding of this encouragement, I hear but of few killed, they fleeing high, and diſpatching their prey ſo quickly: [22] I ſaw a young one in the Palace of Birſa, almoſt twi [...] the bigneſs of a Gooſe, tho not a month old, it is ravenous fowl, and would have run upon us, if we h [...] not kept it of with our ſlaves. As to its colour, it [...] for the moſt part black, and ſomething of a yellow [...] golden colour about the Head, and in ſome parts o [...] the wings. It is obſerved of the Eagle, that he do [...] more deſtruction in places at ſome diſtance from h [...] ⯑neſt, then in theſe that are nearer it. Eagles, Haw [...] and ſuch like fowls have their neſts ordinarily, o [...] ſome high, ragged rock, waſhen by the Sea beneath ſome of which we ſaw as we had occaſion to ſail b [...] them.

An ac⯑count of the Ember-Gooſe.The Ember-Gooſe tho not altogether ſo big as ou [...] Land-Gooſe, yet it uſeth to weigh a ſtone weight. I [...] hath ſhort wings, not able to bear up the body for fleeing, hence it is never ſeen flee, neither ſit on an [...] rock in the sea, as other Fowls do, but hath it's neſt wherein it hatcheth its Eggs, one or two at once under the Water, at the foot of a rock, as they infor⯑med me, hath been found. It is of a darkiſh grey co⯑lour, and white about the neck, of broad feet like ou [...] Land-Gooſe, and a long beck and tho ever in the Wa⯑ter, yet hath not, I think, ſuch a ſtrong fiſh taſte, a [...] the Solen-Gooſe. It is more difficult to get them ſhot, then other Sea fowls, they being very quick-ſighted, and on the 1ſt. apprehenſion of danger, get beneath the Water: Yea by reaſon of their many fea⯑thers, they will receive a ſhot on their breaſt, and it not penetrate: wherefore who would be at them, deſign for their Heads, or to ſhoor them againſt the feathers.And Lyre The Lyre is a rare and delicious Sea fowl, ſo very fat, that you would take it to be wholly fat; it is ſomewhat leſs then a Duck.

Sea-Fowls. numerousThe Sea-fowls are ſo numerous, that a Gentleman in Westra told his Miniſter, that ſome Years ago, he for his own part killed ſo many, as afforded him 50, 60. and ſome Years 100. ſtone weight of feathers, [23] [...]hereby accrues to the Owners more gain, then by [...]e fleſh of the fowls) tho for ſome ſeaſons paſt, he [...]th taken but few; For it is obſerved, that theſe [...]wls follow the ſmall Fiſhes, which are their ordi⯑ [...]ry food, hence the mo Fiſhes, the mo Fowls, and [...]hen the Fiſhes forſake this and the other place, the [...]wls likewiſe do ſo within a ſhort time. Becauſe of [...]is abundance of Fowls, therefore it is, that the [...]entlemen and ſome others have the rocks in ſeveral [...]aces divided among them, as they have their Land. [...]hich Fowls they either kill by ſmall ſhot our of Boats [...] the foot of the frequented rocks, or elſe Men are let own by ropes from the top of the rocks, who ſearch [...]r the Neſts, taking the Eggs, and what Fowls they [...]n apprehend. Many kinds of the Sea-Fowls are of a [...]yed colour, ſome of which are not to be found with [...]s in the South.

There are here no Partridges,No Par⯑tridges, but abun⯑dance of Muir-Fowls. but plenty of Muir- [...]owls, hence in ſome Iſles they will take 20, 30. or [...]o pair in one day, the hills covered with heather, [...]eing by Nature fitted for their living and accommo⯑ [...]ation. Conies alſo do abound in moſt of the Iſles, but [...]o Hares are to be ſeen,No Hares, but Rab⯑bets in a⯑bundance. ſo that if any be brought into [...]he Country, as they ſay, hath been tried, they will [...]ot live and propagate as in other places. I hear of [...]ew, if any venomous creatures in theſe Iſles, as Boe⯑ [...]ius of old did obſerve,Boeth. Hiſt. de Orcad. Serpentes aut aliud animal vene⯑ [...]oſum nullum, id quod de Hiborma quoque verum eſt: No Bees either are here,No veno⯑mous Creatures. there being no proviſion proper [...]or them, beſide they would not take well with this [...]old Climate.

No Trees there are in this Countrey, nor Buſhes,No Trees. [...]ave a few in the Biſhops Garden at Kirkwal, which [...]re eſteemed as a rarity, for when planted and taken are of, they ſometime grow up the height of their Garden Wall, but afterwards they gradually go back [...]nd decay. This ſeveral Gentlemen very deſirous of [...]aving Trees to grow, declared; Which then muſt be [24] imputed to the nature of the Soil, and ſharpneſs the Sea-air, and not to the ſloth of the Inhabitant as our Hiſtorian aſſerts, Nulla uſquam Arbor ac ne Fr [...] tex quidem praeter Ericam, Buchan. Hist. L. 1. nec id tam coeli aut ſo [...] v [...] quam incolarum ignaviâ, quod facile oſtenditur ex arbo [...] radicibus, quae pluribus in locis eruuntur. For tho ind [...] it be true, that Roots, and ſometimes Bodies of Tree [...] are found in Moſſes; yet this is rare, and only to be ha [...] in ſome places; whereas Gentlemen ſay, they brin [...] in exotick or foreign Plants, they ſow Seed for Nur⯑ſeries, which uſeth to arrive at ſome greater growth then what is planted, yet after all their pains and ex⯑pence in uſing ſuch proper means, ſo conducive, fo [...] obtaining their end, no perfection or bearing of Frui [...] can be attained. And that Trees, which yet are b [...] ſmall, and look dry and withered, do grow in the Biſhops Garden, may be becauſe of its incloſure, hav⯑ing the Church on one ſide, the Town of Kirkwal on another, and the Biſhops houſe on a third; Which kind of fences, may keep off the cold breezes, that come from the Sea, and deſtroy the growth of Tree [...] in other places.

Tho there be no Trees, and ſo no Fruits for the Table,Good Roots. yet there is no lack of good Roots for the Kitchen, as Cabbage, Carrots, Parſnipes, Turnipes, Crummocks, Artichoaks &c. All which uſeth to be bigger here then with us ordinarly; eſpecially their Artichoaks excel, hence ſome Gentlemen do barrel and ſend them out of the Country for a preſent to their Friends. Beſide theſe, they have likewiſe variety of Herbs in the field, very beneficial to ſuch as un⯑derſtand their vertue and uſe.

Pites and Turff are the ordinary fewel they uſe, which they have very good and in great plenty through the Country,Their few⯑el. except in ſome places, which do not ſo abound therewith, as in Sanda they are obliged to bring pites from the adjacent Iſles, they not hav⯑ing in their own Iſle to ſuffice them. And the uſual [25] [...]ner of agreement with the Proprietor of the [...]s, is for ſo much a day, for ſo many Peits as a Man [...] caſt. And in ſuch places, where there is ſcarcity [...]ewel, the poorer ſort make uſe of dried Kine's dung, Tangles, which in Summers heat they prepare for the [...]nters cold. They have a few Salt-Pans, in ſome [...]ces, where plenty of Pites, which are very uſeful to [...] Country. At ſome times, much Timber, the [...]ack of Ships caſt away at Sea, or broken on their [...]s, is driven aſhore, which the Inhabitants ſeiſing [...]p for burnwood, and if good and freſh, (as ſome⯑ [...]es Ships from Norway ſuffer Shipwrack upon or nigh theſe Iſles) they make other uſes of it; I ſaw ſeve⯑ [...] Chimney pieces thereof. The more ignorant People [...]nſtruct this as a favourable Providence to them, there⯑ [...]e they call theſe wracks, God's ſend, tho not ſo favour⯑ [...]e to the poor Mariners and others who ſuffer there⯑ [...].

Although the Sea ſeemeth to favour them,Danger⯑ous ſailing here. by [...]inging ſuch Timber, and ſometimes Casks and [...]ogſheads of Wine, Brandy &c. to their doors, yet is turbulent ſwelling Sea, and ſtrong Current of a [...]ide pays them home ſore, for frequently thereby their [...]hall Paſſage or Fiſher-Boats are caſt away, ſometimes [...] in them periſhing, at other times ſome ſaved with [...]fficulty. And at all times it is highly dangerous, [...]r any not experienced with theſe Seas, to paſs [...]rough between the Iſles, tho with ſmall Boats, be⯑ [...]uſe of the many blind Rocks lying there, upon which [...]ometimes the Inhabitants themſelves do ſpleet, what [...]rough ſome miſtake, inadvertency, darkneſs of the [...]ight or otherwiſe.

The Miniſters inform us,Even to the Inha⯑bitants. they are often in great [...]anger in going to their Churches from Iſle to Iſle, Viſiting their Pariſhes, going to the Presbytry, &c. [...]ometimes, pale death, with its grim countenance, [...]reſenting it ſelf, and ſtareing them in the Face, as [...]ne drawn out by the hair of the Head; another [26] eſcaping on the Keel of the overwhelmed Boat; Som [...] ⯑times they are arreſted by a ſtorm in the Iſles, a [...] kept from their own Families for ſome weeks, eve [...] when the paſſage will be ſcarce a Mile or half a mi [...] over. They tell us, in the Iſle of Weſtra, there w [...] a Marriage not long ſince, where about 100 Perſo [...] were conveened from other Iſles, and were detaine [...] for 6 or 7 weeks together, ſo that tho many of the [...] daily ſaw their own houſes, yet they durſt not adve [...] ⯑ture to paſs over, till the falling Wind and Sea too [...] off their confinement.

In every Iſle there is a Wart or Ward-Hill, th [...] higheſt Hill in the Iſle,The Wart-Hill. on the top whereof they uſe to kindle a fire, when they ſaw an Enemy approach⯑ing, or diſcerned any danger, that ſo they mig [...] alarm the Neighbourhood, that the diſperſed Inhab [...] ⯑tants of the Country having thereby notice given the [...] might conveen for their ſuccour, or be upon the [...] own Defence, which Beacons on the tops of Moun⯑tains the Scripture makes mention of, as Iſa. 30.1 [...] And a late Learned Author aſſerteth,Edward's Scrip. ſtile Vol. 3. Chap. 4. That great fla [...] with ſmoke riſing up out of the City, which was appoint [...] as a ſign between the Men of Iſrael, and the Lyers in wa [...] Judg. 20 38, 40. ſeems to be meant by this.

The Pro⯑prietors of the Country.There are ſeveral Gentlemen in Orkney who ha [...] conſiderable Eſtates, but the King is the great Pro⯑prietor, having about the one half of the Rents of t [...] whole Country. Which Rents are let out to Taxme [...] for ſo much per Annum, as is agreed upon at the pub⯑lick Roup, who by their Deputes gather in the R [...] ⯑venues of the Crown, and being the Kings Stewar [...] they are the principal Judges of the Country. T [...] Rents when Collected, whether payed in Mone [...] Meal, Oats, Barly or Butter are ordinarly ſent Sou [...] which cauſeth a great grudge among the People, ſome [...] them thereby being redacted to great ſtraits, not getti [...] Meal, Barley or the like ſometimes to buy, as in t [...] late dearth, tho then the product of theſe Iſles, com⯑paratively, [27] were beyond that of many other places in [...]e Kingdom. The Biſhops Rents amounting to 8 or [...]00. Merks per Annum, and ſo more conſiderable then [...]e Rents of ſeveral other Biſhopricks in the Kingdom, [...]w ſince the abolition of Prelacy coming in to the [...]ings Treaſury and at his diſpoſal, are alſo ſent [...]uth and not conſumed within the Iſles, as they uſed [...]rmerly to be, when the Biſhops reſided here, at which [...]e People are likewiſe diſſatisfied, and thereby, as ſome [...]etter acquainted with their humours and inclinations do [...]form me, the Presbyterian Government is made the [...]eſs acceptable to many of them.

The People greatly cry out of the Oppreſſion they groan under,The Peo⯑pel com⯑plain of oppreſſion by reaſon of the frequent change of Stew⯑ [...]rds their Maſters, who being Taxmen, and ſo only [...]o continue for ſuch a definite time, each endeavours [...]o gather in his Rents, and that as ſoon as may be, which many of the poor People cannot get ſo quickly given, whereupon ſeveral of them are put to doors, and all taken from them, which hath occaſioned much of the King's Land now to be lying waſte and lee; Whereas if they always had one Maſter, their Circumſtances might be much better, for ſometimes it ſo falleth out, that the Husband-Man will gain as much in one year, as will compenſe the loſs of another, the Maſter like⯑wiſe would be more encouraging to them, and con⯑cerned in their wellfare, and they having Leaſſes ſet them, would more endeavour the improving of their ground, which now they do not, they not knowing, but the next year they may have a new Maſter, whoſe little Finger may be thicker then his Predeceſſours Loyns. Yet let not my Reader judge, that I hereby intend the Impeachment of any particular Perſon or Perſons, who have been Taxmen there, or now are, but my deſign is to ſhew, that this is the common complaint of the Coun⯑try both in Orkney and Zetland.

The Gentlemen tell us,Their Hol⯑ding. they have another kind of Holding here, then is in other places, and the beſt right [28] they have to their Lands, is that which they call Udall right, a Poſſeſſion which the Natives ſucceſſively have without either Charter or Seaſin; All their Lands be⯑ing either ſuch Udall Land [...], or Kings Lands, or Fewed Lands. This Udall right is ſaid to be called from one Ulans King of Norway, who when he poſſeſſed the Countrey, gave to the Inhabitants a Right to ſo much Land, he alwayes retaining to himſelf the 3d part, and enjoying the increaſe thereof.

Meaſure.Their meaſure is not the ſame with ours, they not uſeing Peck and Firlot, but in ſtead thereof, weigh their Corns on Piſmires or Pundlers. The leaſt quan⯑tity is called a Merk, which is 18 Ounces; 24 Merks make a Leiſpound or Setten, which with the Danes is that which we call a Stone.Modern Account, of Den⯑mark. 6 Settens, a Meil, which is their Boll; And 18 Meils make a Chalder. Neither do they uſe Pocks or Sacks as we do; But carries and keeps their Corns and Meal in a ſort of Veſſels made of Straw, bound about with Ropes of the ſame, called Caſſies.

CHAP. III Wherein the ſeveral Iſles and Pariſhes belong⯑ing to Orkney, are enumerated, and breifly deſcribed.

HAVING geven ſome deſcription of Orkney in gener⯑al,The Num⯑ber of the Orkney Iſles I ſhall now give ſome more particular account of the ſeveral Iſles thereunto belonging. Which are di⯑vided into ſuch as are Inhabited, and ſo are more com⯑monly called Iſles; And ſuch as are not Inhabited, which they call Holms, only uſeful for Paſturage. The Iſles are ſaid to be 26 in number, viz. Pomona or the Mainland being much larger then any of the reſt ‘Gram⯑ſey, Hoy, Swinna, South-Ronaldſha, Burra, Lamb⯑holm, Flotta, Faira, Cava, Copinſha, Shapinſha, Dam⯑ſay, [29] Inhallo, Gairſa, Rouſa, Eagleſha, Stronſa, Papa-Stronſa, Eda, North-Faira, Weſtra, Papa-Weſtra, Wyre, Sanda, and North-Ronaldſha.’ To which may [...]e added Poghtland Skerries, it be [...]ng ſometimes inhabit⯑ed in the Summer time, and Waes which in a high [...]ream is divided from Hoy, whereunto it is joyned by low and narrow neck of Land; As alſo the Calf of Eda, it having a Salt Pan in it:. It may be obſerved [...]hat moſt of the Names of theſe Iſles end in a or-ey, which in the Teutonick Tongue ſignifieth Water, to ſhew [...]hat theſe Iſles are pieces of Land ſurrounded with Water.

The firſt is P [...]mona or the Mainland, Pomona or the Main⯑land. The Town of Kirkwal deſcribed. ſaid to be 24 Miles in length [...]rom Eaſt to Weſt, and in ſome places [...] or 8 Miles broad; nigh to the midle whereof is the Toun of Kirkwal, about 3 quarters of a Mile in length from South to North, the only remarkable Toun in [...]ll this Countrey, and beſide which there is no other Royal-Burgh in Orkney or Zetland; The Danes who [...]ad the Orcades long in poſſeſſion, called it Cracoviaca, which Name Buchanan takes to be the ſame with Kirk⯑wal but corrupted. "Quod Dani Cracoviacam appela⯑ [...] bant, nunc nomine corrupto Kircua Scotis dicitur. It [...]andeth upon the North ſide of the Iſle in a low and moiſt Ground, hence a Miniſter in this Countrey told me, that in ſeveral places of their large Church, where [...]he more reſpected Burgers ordinarily Bury their Dead, they can ſcarce dig two foot of Earth but Water will riſe, ſo that he hath ſeen when they Interred the Corps [...]hey behoved to preſs them doun in the water till the Mold or Earth was caſt upon them. It is now much [...]ecayed as to Trade and Number of Inhabitants, as many ancient Burghs in this Kingdom are. In it hath [...]een two ſtately Edifices the King's and the Biſhops Palace, [...]he former is now very ruinous being the Ancienteſt [...]f the two, built, as is thought, by ſome of the Biſhops [...]f Orkney; It having the veſtige, of a Biſhops Mitre [...]nd Armes Engraven, upon the Wall that looks to the [...]reet: And in which, it is ſaid, the Biſhops, of old, [30] had their Reſidence. The other, called the Biſhop's Palace, wherein the Biſhops lately lived, was built by Patrick Stewart Earl of Orkney Anno 1606, son to Robe [...] Stewart Natural Son to King James the 5th. This Palace i [...] alſo goeing to Ruine; Tho, with ſome expence, i [...] could be keept, in good Repair.

the Church of Kirkwal [...]The Church is a very noble and large Structure; Hav [...] ⯑ing, in it, 14 or 15 ſtrong Pillars, on each ſide, Th [...] [...]teeple ſtanding, on 4 bigger and higher Pillars, in th [...] midle of the Church, wherein there are ſeveral old an [...] good Bells. In the Eaſter part only, of this grea [...] Church, is Divine ſervice performed, which is furniſh⯑ed with good Seats, for accommodating the Inhabitants and other conveniencies, proper for that end. It i [...] commonly called St. Magnus Church; being built, [...] at leaſt, as ſome ſay, the foundation laid, by Mag⯑nus King of Norway; Whom they report, to have bee [...] Buried here: Tho, others ſay, he was Buried in Eagle [...] ſha, an Iſle to the North of Kirkwal. There are ma⯑ny, of this name, of Magnus, in this Country.

A ſafe Road at KirkwalAt Kirkwal, there is a ſafe Road; But Ships, comin [...] from the South, cannot get ſo eaſily into it, by reaſo [...] that the ſame Wind which brings them to Orkney, o [...] ⯑ten will not ſuffer them to turn up to Kirkwal, the [...] being obliged to encompaſs a point of Land ſtretchin [...] to the North-Eaſt before they can make the Road, [...] that frequently they ly at Elwick or Deer-Sound tw [...] Anchoring places to the Eaſt or North-Eaſt of Kirw [...] until that the Wind ſhall favour them.

Goodgraſs and Corn, in ſome places of the Main⯑land. The Kings Houſe in E [...]aOn the Mainland good Corns do grow in ſeveral pl [...] ⯑ces, tho likewayes there be much mooriſh Ground, b [...] the pleaſenteſt part of the Iſle I take to be the Weſt e [...] thereof, about Birſa, Hara, Sandwick and Stromneſs, whe [...] there are ſeveral ſpots well furniſhed with Graſs a [...] Corn. In the Pariſh of Birſa is the Kings Houſe ſituat [...] ⯑on a plain Champain Ground on the Weſt end of t [...] Mainland, nigh to the Sea or Deucaledonian Ocean, whi [...] [31] [...]rmerly when in order hath had ſeveral pleaſant and di⯑ [...]erting Avenues about it. At a large quarter of a Miles [...]iſtance to the south, we ſaw the pleaſanteſt mixture of [...]owans ſo commonly called or Daiſies white and yellow [...]n every ſide of the way growing very thick, and co⯑ [...]ering a conſiderable piece of the Ground; that ever [...]ve had occaſion to ſee. The Palace was Built in form [...]f a Court by Robert Stewart Earl of Orkney, about the [...]ear 1574, it is two ſtories high, the upper hath been [...]rettily decored, the Ceiling being all Painted, and [...]hat for the moſt part with Schems holding forth scrip⯑ [...]ure-Hiſtories, as Noah's Floud, Christ's Riding to Jer⯑ [...]ſalem &c. And the scripture is ſet doun beſide the Fi⯑ [...]ure: It was Inhabited within theſe 20 Years, but is [...]ow faſt decaying. When we entered the Palace gate, we [...]w above it, that Inſcription ſo much talk [...] of, and re⯑ [...]uted treaſonable by "King James the 6th: Robertus [...] Steuartus Filius Jacobi 5ti Rex Scotorum hoc Aedifici⯑ [...]um inſtruxit, which inſcription could not but offend [...]he lawful Heir of the Croun, for it cannot well be [...]hought that the Earl and all about him, were ſuch blun⯑derers in the Latine Tongue as to put doun Rex in ſtead of Regis, if there had been no deſign in it. Within [...]he Palace we ſaw alſo the Motto above his Arms, Sic [...]uit, eſt, & erit. which was a piece of too great arrogancy [...]or any Man to aſſume that unto himſelf, which prop⯑erly belongs to the Son of GOD, whoſe wiſe Judge⯑ment is not unworthy of our Remark, that now only [...]t can be ſaid of his Houſe and Family, now extinct.Dan. 4.37. [...]ic ſuit: Which that great King Nebuchadnezar knew [...]o his experience, That theſe who walk in pride, God is able to abaſe.

Among other pleaſant places in this Weſt end of the Mainland we may take notice of Kirfal-Hill, Kirfal Hill a litle to the Eaſt of the Houſe of Brachneſs in the Pariſh of Sandwick, which is very large on the top, and plain almoſt like a Bowling-Green, ſo that 9 or 10000 Men could eaſily be drawn up in order thereupon: It is all over very [32] green without any Heath or ſuch like growing there nei⯑ther are there any riſing Hillocks on it, that we could diſ⯑cern, as ordinarly are to be ſeen on other Hills; and be⯑cauſe of it's being ſo very pleaſant the Inhabitants about call it Chearful-Hill, Loch of Stennis. Within a few Miles alſo of he Weſt-end of the Mainland is the Loch of Stenni: the largeſt in Orkney, whereon are ſome Mills; ſome Trouts, and Sal⯑mon-Gilſes are found in it, and the Brooks that run from it.

Several good Har⯑bours on the Main⯑land.Beſide Kirkwal-Road, there are ſeveral other Har⯑bours or Bays on the Mainland, wherein Ships can ſafe⯑ly ly, as one at Kerſton a ſmall Village, at the Weſt end of the Main-land, much frequented by Ships going to the Weſt of Scotland, or Ireland, or coming therefrom: Another is at Holms-ſound towards the South-Eaſt ſide of the Iſle, to which ſometimes Barks do reſort from the South; ſeveral Ships alſo going through Land from the South to the Weſt-Sea, drop Anchor here; and when they paſs, they muſt Sail between Lambholm a litle Iſle in the Sound, and the Mainland; for the way on the other ſide between Lambholm and Burra, tho it ſeem more open, yet it is, they ſay, ſhallow and dang⯑erous: But none I think will dare to Sail through theſe Iſles without ſome meaſure both of skill and experi⯑ence, elſe it will be to the hazard of their lives, and the loſs of Ship and Cargo; There being ſeveral Turnings, Blind-Rocks, and Shallows: Wherefore many do judge it the ſafeſt Courſe, to keep the Wide-Sea, and ſo Sail without the Iſles, eſpecially if the Weather be not well ſet and promiſing. Another convenient Road is at Deer-ſound to the Eaſt of the Mainland where a great Bay commodious for Navies to ride in. Some other Harbours and Bays alſo there are upon the Mainland, but theſe are the moſt remarkable.

A Ship caſt away.Nigh to the point of Deer-Neſs ſome Years ago was caſt away a Ship tranſporting ſome Priſoners to Ameri⯑ca, who were for the moſt part Weſt-Country Men ap⯑prehended, Empriſoned and then Baniſhed for adhering to Presbyterian Principles; There were, as is ſaid, [33] [...]ove 100 who Periſhed being kept under the Hatches, [...]ed together by pairs, whereas if they had been at li⯑ [...]rty, the greateſt part if not all might have been ſav⯑ [...], as a few were, then upon Deck, with the Mari⯑ [...]ers. The Countrey People here did and do think that [...]e Captain of the Ship willingly ſuffered her to drive [...]on this point, and the Men there to Periſh, and if ſo, is probable that others tho not Aboard, have been [...]ncerned in this miſchievous deſing, as the Authors [...]d Abettours thereof.

In the Mainland are [...] Pariſhes but 13 Kirks,The Iſle of Copinsha. for [...]any Miniſters in Orkney have 2 and ſome 3 Kirks, [...]herein they ordinarily Preach by turns, the firſt is [...]eerneſs and S^t Andrews at the Eaſt-end of the Iſle, [...]here two Kirks, one at Deerneſs and another at S^t [...]ndrews, wherein their Miniſter Preacheth by turns, [...]re live the Lairds of New-work and Tankerneſs; Under [...]s Miniſters inſpection alſo is Copinſha a litle Iſlle to [...]e Eaſt of the Main, wherein a few Families, ſome [...]rn-Land and Paſturage: It at a litle diſtance appears [...] be as an high Rock conſpicuous to Sea Men, but it [...]clineth and lieth low towards the Weſt: To the North [...]ſt of it lieth a Holm called the Horſe of Copinſha.

The next Pariſh is Holm, alſo on the Eaſt of the [...]ain to the Weſt of Deerneſs and St andrews, The Iſle of Lambholm. wherein is [...]t one Kirk; In this Pariſh liveth the Laird of Graham [...] ⯑ [...]ll. To their Miniſters Charge belongeth Lambholm [...]itle Iſle to the South of the Main, wherein a Familie [...] two. North-Weſt from Holm, the Pariſh and Town Kirkwal lieth, where one Church, but they ſhould [...]ve two Miniſters. A part of their Charge is called [...]e Pariſh of S^t Ola. To the Weſt of Kirkwal is Orph⯑ [...] where is but one Kirk. To the North-Weſt of [...]kwal lieth Firth and Stennis having two Kirks, where⯑ [...] their Miniſter Preacheth per vices or by turns.The Iſle of Damſey. To this [...]riſh belongs Damſey, a litle Iſle. To the North of [...]th and Stennis, is Evie and Rendal having two Kirks, [...]erein their Miniſter Preacheth per vices, To this [34] Pariſh belongeth Gairſey a litle pleaſant Iſle,The Iſle of Gairſey. wherein [...] ⯑eth Sir William Craig of Gairſey

To the Weſt of Evie and Rendal is Hara and B [...] where are two Kirks, in which the Miniſter Preache [...] per vices; the King's Houſe is in Birſa as aboveſa [...] Next to Birſa to the South-Weſt is Sandwick and Stro [...] ⯑neſs, wherein are two Kirks, which their Miniſter go [...] to per vices. To Stromneſs belongeth Kerston, wh [...] the beſt Harbour in Orkney, and by reaſon it is daily i [...] ⯑creaſing as to Houſes and number of Inhabitants, (w [...] are encouraged to dwell here upon the account of t [...] many Ships that do frequent this Port, and often tarry [...] ſometime;) the Miniſter and Gentlemen concur in ſu⯑plicating Judicatories competent, that Kerston wi [...] ſome of the Countrey adjacent, may be erected into [...] Pariſh by it ſelf, that ſo the Inhabitants of the pl [...] and ſtrangers reſorting thereunto, may be ſerved wi [...] Preaching, and other parts of the Paſtoral Work; th [...] preſent Church at Stromneſs being 4 Miles diſtant fro [...] them, wherein alſo they can have Sermon, but eve [...] other Sabbath. In Sandwick lives the Laird of Brach [...] ▪

To the South of Stromneſs and Sandwick lieth Hoy [...] Waes, which ordinarly make but one Iſle, tho ſometi [...] by a high Sream overflowing the low and narrow pa [...] ⯑age.The Iſle of Hoy, and Waes. whereby they are joyned to one another. they [...] divided into two; The Iſle is about 10 or 12 Miles lo [...] from Weſt to Eaſt. Waes at the Eaſt-end of the Iſle better inhabited, then Hoy at the Weſt-end thereof, lying lower, and ſo fitter for Paſturage and labour [...]g whereas Hoy is more Mountainous, only having ſo [...] Houſes on the skirts of the Hills, by the Coaſts, a [...] ſome Corn Land about their Houſes. The H [...] of Hoy is the higheſt in Orkney, whence we have a [...] proſpect of all the circumjacent Iſles, as alſo of Caith [...] ▪ Stranaver, Sutherland &c. On the South ſide of P [...]g [...] ⯑land Firth, yet tho it be ſo high, it cannot hold [...] what ſome do aſſert, that from this Hill is to be ſeen [...] Sun all the Night over in the Moneth of June when [35] [...]out the Tropick of Cancer, for ſeeing the Sun is [...] ſeveral hours ſeen above the Horizon the ſhorteſt [...] of Winter, he muſt neceſſarly be ſo far depreſſed, ſhorteſt Night in Summer, ſo that his Body cannot [...] be ſeen, tho ſomething of a clear light may be [...]erned, as it were accompanying the Sun from his ſett⯑ [...] to his riſing point, by reaſon of the reflexion and action of his Rayes upon and through the Sea, he [...]ping ſo litle below their Horizon: For the further [...]ſtrating of this, the Miniſters of the Northern-Iſles Orkney told me, that in the Moneth of June they will [...] to Read ſmall Print or Write at mid-night; And in [...]cember for ſome Dayes they can neither ſee to Read [...] Write, unleſs that they light a Candle, as one of [...]m atteſted from his experience. To the South of the [...]try into the Sound between Hoy and Kerſton in the [...]ainland is the Comb of Hoy, the higheſt Rock in Ork⯑ney, looking to the Weſt or Deucaledeman Ocean much [...]quented by Sea-Fouls.

The Miniſter of Hoy hath two Kirks,The Iſle of Gramſey. one in Hoy and other in Gramſey, a little pleaſant Iſle about a Mile [...]ng, lying to the North of Hoy, between it and Kerſton [...] the Mainland, but Ships that go through this Sound [...]e to Sail between Gramſay and the Mainland, the way [...]tween Gramſay and Hoy being very dangerous. The [...]iniſter of Waes hath two Kirks,The Iſle of Flotta Fai⯑ra, and Ca⯑va. one in Waes and an⯑ [...]her in Flotta, a pleaſant litle Iſle, and as capable of [...]provement as any Iſle in Orkney; Faira and Cava alſo [...]o other litle Iſles are a part of his Charge, theſe Iſles [...] to tha Eaſt of Waes and Hoy.

Nigh to the Eaſt of Waes and Hoy lyes South-Ronald⯑ [...]a 5 Miles long from North to South,The Iſle of South-Ro⯑naldsha. and about two [...]oad in ſeveral places, it is the Southernmoſt of all the Iſles of Orkney, and very Fertile and populous, at [...]he South-end thereof is Burwick, whence the ordinary [...]aſſage is to Duncanſbay in Caithneſs over Pightland Firth. Their Miniſter hath three Kirks, two in South-Ronald⯑ [...]ha, one at the South-end of the Iſle, called our Lady's-Kirk, [36] and another at the North-end called St Pe [...] Kirk. The Iſle of Burra. He hath a 3d Kirk in Burra a pleaſant litle Iſl [...] the North of South-Ronaldſha, wherein much Cornla [...] and many Rabbets: in this Iſle liveth Sir Archb [...] Steuart. The Iſle of Swinna. To this Pariſh belonges Swinna a little Iſle Pightland-Firth, of which more afterward, when [...] come to diſcourſe of Pightland-Firth.

The Iſle of Shapinſha.To the North of the Mainland lyes the Northern Iſ [...] as Shapenſha to the North-Eaſt 4 or 5 Miles long, this Pariſh belongs but one Kirk, It hath a ſafe Har⯑bour at Elwick on the South of the Iſle: Here is t [...] Houſe of the Sound which looketh well, and hath a plea [...] Situation on a riſing Ground, lying to the South.

Iſles of Stronſa, and Papa Stronſa.To the North-Eaſt, from Shapinſha lyeth Stronſa [...] bout 4 or 5 Miles long, it is well Inhabited, and t [...] Graſs and Corns are good: Papa Stronſae is a litle I [...] over againſt it towards North-Eaſt, wherein but o [...] Family, between Papa-Stronſa and Stronſa is a ſafe Ha [...] ⯑bour or Bay, well fenced by [...]romontories or Capes [...] Land, it is ſaid to be the beſt North-bound Harbour [...] all the Northern Iſles. Oppoſite to Stronſa to North-Weſt lyes Eda about 4 Miles of length from North t [...] South,The Iſle of Eda. it is full of Moſs and Moor, and but thinly In⯑habited: Some of the Neighouring Iſles get their Pite [...] hence. In it a Loch and Mill. To the North-Eaſt o [...] Eda is the Ca [...]f, a Holm ſo called; between which an [...] Eda is Calf-Sound a convenient and ſafe Road. The Mini [...] ⯑ter of Stronſa and Eda hath two Kirks one in Stronſa an [...] another in Eda where he Preacheth every 3d Sabbath To the Weſt of Eda lyes North-Fatra a litle pleaſant Iſl [...] wherein a few Families.The Iſle of North-Fat⯑ra.

The Houſe of Calf-Sound.On the Eaſt ſide of Eda, ſtands a Houſe built b [...] John Stewart Earl of Carrick, An. 1633. Some [...] whoſe Off ſpring are yet living in the neighbourin [...] Iſles, the occaſion of his coming and living in this re⯑mote corner, is reported to have been ſome diſconte [...] which tell out between him and his Lady; He built a [...] a great Expence 12 Salt-Pans in the Calf of Eda, ov [...] [37] againſt his houſe, which for ſome time were all at [...]ork, he deſigning to have driven a Foreign Trade [...]ith his Salt, but he dying after a few years abode [...]ere, the Houſe and Pans not being keept in Repair [...]ent to ruine, ſo that now only one Salt-Pan is ſtand⯑ [...]g. Thus his Project died with himſelf.

To the N Eaſt of Eda is Sanda [...] the pleaſanteſt I [...]ink, of the Orkney Iſles,The Iſle of Sanda. 9 or 10 Miles long from [...]uth to North, in many places a Mile or a mile and [...] half, and in ſome ſcarce half a mile broad, having [...]veral tongues of Land waſhen by the Sea; hence ſome [...]o compare it to the ſhape of a Lobſter: No place in the [...]le is high and Mountainous, and many ſpots of it are [...]ery plain, and even like a Bowling-Green, every⯑ [...]here it is well furniſhed with Graſs, and muc [...] good [...]orn, ſaid to be the beſt in Orkney; It alone payeth to [...]e King 42 Chalders of Victual, every one of which [...]h [...]lders is 21 Bolls of our Meaſure; The whole Iſle [...] but as one rich Cuningar or a Cony Warren, for I [...]ever ſaw a greater number of Conies runing in any [...]lace then I did here; Hence the Heretors kill [...]everal hundreds of them yearly for their uſe. There [...]e ſeveral Bays for Ships as Kitletoft, O [...]terſwick and [...]aphneſs Bay. Some Gentlemen alſo who have conſi⯑ [...]erable Intereſts as Burgh, Lapneſs &c: Many Fowls [...]equent this Iſle, as Duck and Drake, Plover, &c. [...]o that there is good ſport for the Fowler. The Stir⯑ [...]ns or Stares are as numerous I judge, as the Spar⯑ [...]ows are with us.

In Sanda are two Miniſters, one having one Kirk [...]alled Lady-Kirk, on the Eaſt ſide of the Iſle towards [...]he North end thereof, in this Iſle are ſome ſober, [...]nowing, and good People; particularly in this Lady Pariſh in the former Presbyterian times, there was a Godly Zealous Miniſter, Mr. Arthur Murray, who went South after the Revolution An. 1660 and died [...]here, ſome of the old people yet alive, who were un⯑ [...]er his Miniſtry cannot ſpeak of him without Tears [38] The Righteous ſhall he had in everlaſting remember⯑ance. The other Miniſter hath under his inſpection three Kirks, two in Sanda, Croſs Kirk, and Burneſs, and one in North-Ronaldſha, an Iſle to the North of Sanda two or three Miles long. Both theſe Iſles of Sanda and North-Ronalſha ly low,The Iſle of North Ro⯑nalsha. and dangerous for Seamen, who cannot diſcover them at any diſtance eſpecially in a miſty day or dark night, till cloſe upon them, and ſo are ready to ſuffer Ship wrack, as many do:

The Iſle of Westra.To the Weſt of Sanda lyes, Weſtra ſeven Miles long it is well Inhabited, having much Corn in it; here is F [...]tta Hill where they ſay the Fairies are frequently ſeen, it is the higheſt hill in all the Northern Iſles of Orkney. In the North end of this Iſle is the Caſtle of Noutland, built by Gilbert Balfour for the uſe o [...] James Hepburn Earl of Bothwell, The Caſtle of Nout⯑land. Married to Queen Mary the 27 of May An. 1567 in the Abbey of Holy Roodhouſe who fearing he ſhould not always retain and enjoy his preſent Grandure, which the Nobles en⯑vied him for, he likewiſe being ſuſpected guilty of the Murder of my Lord Darli [...] her former Husband cauſed build this ſtrong Caſtle, which upon a change of the Scene, he might betake himſelf unto, ſituated upon a Rock nigh to the Deucaledonian Ocean, having plain Champain ground about it; It is 4 Stories high and the loweſt is ſtrongly Vaulted, above, which i [...] a large Hall, having two Air-holes through the Arch, ſo to give a vent to the Pouder, if at any time they ſhowld be ſurpriſed with a blaſt, the walls ar [...] very thick, and all the free ſtone for the building was brought from the South: The Roof is flat and fenced with Rayls of Stone, whence we have a ſai [...] view of the circumjacent Country, There are ſevera [...] hols or ſlits in the Building, not only to let in the light, but to gall an approaching Enemy with ſmal ſhot, if at any time they ſhould be attacked: But the Lord often taking the Sinner in his own craftineſs [39] [...]uffered him not ſo to eſcape, by ſheltering himſelf in this Neſt; This Caſtle was never compleated, for in one part thereof, the Walls are but half the height in⯑ [...]ended, and never hitherto covered with a Roof, and [...]e being purſued by the Lords of the Congregation, never poſſeſſed it, or ſo much as ſaw it, if not at a diſtance, for he taking himſelf to Sea with two or three Ships came to Kirkwal in Orkney, and being dri⯑ven thence by William Kircaldy of Grange, he fled to Zetland, where the Purſuer had almoſt overtaken him, if the Pilots skill in theſe Seas had not made a way to eſcape, in holding down by the ſide of a blind Rock well enough known to the Pilot, which the Purſuer ignorant of ſpleet upon; which Rock to this day is called the Ʋnicorn, from the Name of the Ship that periſhed upon it. Bothwel eſcaped to Norway where being apprehended, he was taken to Denmark, and caſt into a filthy Priſon, where he died after 10 years Impriſonment: His wicked life having this mi⯑ſerable end: Tho hand join in hand the wicked ſhall not go unpuniſhed; and ordinarly Murder, (where⯑of he was ſuſpected to be guilty,) ſo cryeth from the ground, that it bringeth down remarkable and often tremendous Judgments in time. There are ſeveral Gentlemens Houſes in Westra.

The Miniſter of Weſtra hath three Churches where⯑in he Preacheth per vices, two in Weſtra, one at the weſt end of the Iſle called the West-Kirk, and another nigh to the North end called the North-Kirk, the third Church is in Papa-Westra a little Iſle of 3 Miles long from South to North;The Iſle of Papa-Weſtra. Betwixt it and Weſtra there is a convenient Harbour for Ships at Piriwa; As alſo in the ſame Sound a little to the North of this Harbour lyes a holm wherein there hath been a little Chapel, whereof ſome of the ruinous Walls are yet to be ſeen. Papa-Weſtra aboundeth with Rabbets, and hath ſome Corn Land, but not ſo much as ſome other Iſles, it being hard and ſtonny ground; It belongeth to a Gen⯑tleman [40] called Holland, and hath been reputed famous for St. Trodwells Chappel and Loch or Lake. To the Ea [...] of this Iſle lyeth the Holm, where the Easter Men had their Hutts as above.

The Iſle of Rouſa.To the South of Westra lyes Rouſa an Iſle 6 Miles long, full of heathy Hills, abounding with Moor Fowls, there is not much corn in it, and but thinly in⯑habited. There is a Loch and Mill thereon that goeth ordinarily all the Summer over, which is rare in theſe Iſles. The Miniſter of Rouſa hath two Kirks, one in Rouſa and another in Eglesha, The Iſle of Eglesha. a pleaſant Iſle two Mil [...]s long, where a Church much frequented by ſuperſti⯑tious People with a high Steeple ſeen at a great diſtance, where, (as ſome would have it,) St. Magnus was buried. To his Charge alſo belongs Inhallo, The Iſle of Inhallo. a little Iſle to the Weſt of Rouſa, alſo Wyre a ſmall Iſle.

The Num⯑ber of Parishes.Thus I have glanced at the Deſcription of the Orca⯑des; moſt of which I have had occaſion to ſee, wherein we ſee there are 17. Pariſhes, 8. in the Mainland, Viz. Kirkwall, Holm, Deerneſs and St. Andrews, Evie and Rendat, Firth and Stennis, Orphir, B [...]rſa and Hara, Sandwick and Stromneſs, and 9. in the other Iſles, Sciz. South Ronalſha and Burra, Waes and Flotta, Hoy and Gramſey, Shapinſha, Stronſa and Eda, Lady Kirk in Sanda, Croſs Kirk and Burneſs in Sanda, and North Ro⯑nalsha, Weſtra and Papa Weſtra, Rouſa and Egleſha; But there are 31. Kirks; And theſe Miniſters look upon themſelves as more happily poſted, who have only one Kirk, eſpecially if they have not more Kirks in ſeve⯑ral Iſles, this tending more to the Edification of the People under their Charge, and conſequently to their peace and encouragement, they every Lords Day diſ⯑penſing Ordinances in the ſame place, to the ſame People, whereas theſe who have more Kirks commit⯑ted to them are ſometimes obliged to preach in one place and ſometimes in another, and the People gene⯑rally frequent but their ou [...] Kirk, eſpecially if they be in different Iſles, hence ordinarily they enjoy the Ordi⯑nances [41] only every other Sabbath, and in ſome places [...]t one of three, which cannot but obſtruct the pro⯑ [...]ſs of the Goſpel, among them. Beſides it is uneaſy, [...]enſive and dangerous for them to travel from Iſle to [...]e, and ſometimes a ſtorm ariſing they are neceſſarily [...]ained there. The ſtipends here are ſmall, and for [...] moſt part payed by the Stewart or his Depute, the [...]ng being the principal Proprietour, yet they can [...]e very well upon them, Victuals being had at an [...]ie rate.

The People are generally tractable,People re⯑ſpectful of their Mi⯑niſters. ſubmiſſive and [...]pectful to their Miniſters, which is very deſirable [...]d encouraging to theſe who labour among them, [...]hen true Zeal enlargeth the deſires, and putteth an [...]ge upon the Spirits of Paſtors in the diſcharge of the [...]rd's Work for the good of Souls.

CHAP. IV. [...]ome things remarkable in Orkney, as Ancient Monuments, ſtrange Providences &c. are repreſented.

HAving taken a view of the Countrey in general,Things re⯑markable in Orkney. and the ſeveral Iſles in particular, I ſhall now di⯑ [...]ert my Reader with ſome things remarkable, not together unworthy of our Obſervation, ſuch as ſome [...]ncient Monuments, ſtrange Accidents, and ſome [...]her things not only curious and delectable, but alſo [...]ofitable to the Judicious; affording matter "of medi⯑tation to the wiſe Obſervers of theſe things, who re⯑gard the Works of the Lord, and duely ponder the operation of his hands, in the years of Ancient and Latter times.

The firſt we take notice of is the Stone,The Dw [...]rfie Stone. called the [...]warfie Stone, lying in a Valley between two Hills, to [...]e North of the Hill of Hoy, it is about 34. foot long, [...]6. or 17. broad and 8. thick, hollowed by the hand [42] of ſome Maſon, as the Print of the Maſon-Irons do [...] ſhew, it hath a square hole for the Entry, looking [...] the Eaſt, 2. foot high, with a ſtone proportionab [...] ſtanding before this Entry at 2. foot diſtance, with at one end is hewen out a bed with a pillow, where two Perſons may ly almoſt at their full length, opp [...] ⯑ſite to this at the other end, is ſomething alſo hew [...] out like a Couch, between which Bed and Couch the [...] is a large Hole above about the bigneſs of the Entry through which a Perſon may come up to the top [...] the Stone, and might ſerve, for a Vent to the ſmok [...] if ſo be they had put any fire upon a Hearth betwe [...] the two Beds. Beneath this ſtone runs to the South [...] cold and pleaſant ſpring which might afford drink [...] the Inhabitant. Who hewed this ſtone, or for wh [...] uſe it was we could not learn, the Common Traditi [...] among the People is, That a Giant with his Wi [...] lived in this Iſle of Hoy, who had this ſtone for the [...] Caſtle. But I would rather think, ſeeing it could [...] accomodate any of a Gigantick ſtature, that it mig [...] be for the uſe of ſome Dwarf, as the Name ſeems import, or it being remote from any Houſe might the retired Cell of ſome Melancholick Hermite. T [...] ſtone alſo may be called the Dwarfie Stone, per A [...] ⯑phraſin or by way of Oppoſition it being ſo [...] great.

Some⯑thing shines wonder⯑fully on the Wart-Hill of Hoy.To the North-Weſt of this Stone is an high Mo [...] ⯑tain of a ſteep Aſcent called the Wart-Hill of Hoy, loo [...] ⯑ing to the North; Nigh to the top of which Hill ab [...] Mid-Day, is ſeen ſomething and that at a good [...] ⯑ſtance, which glitters and ſhines wonderfully, a [...] tho ſome have climbed up and ſearched for it, [...] could find nothing: It ſhines moſt in the ſummer ti [...] The People talk of it as ſome enchanted Carb [...] ⯑cle: Others take it to be a Water that reflecteth [...] Sun's Rays, and ſo cauſeth ſuch a ſparkling and ſpl [...] ⯑dour; But a Gentleman who liveth nigh to [...] [43] Rock told us, that is ſhines moſt in the greateſt Drought, [...]hen no Water is near it.

At the Weſt end of the Mainland,A ſtreet of ſtones of diffe⯑rent fi⯑gures. about a Mile [...]d an half to the Weſt of the Houſe of Skeal, on the [...]p of high Rocks, there is ſomething like a ſtreet, [...]ear to a Quarter of a Mile in length, and between [...], and 30. foot in breadth, all laid with Stones of [...]fferent Figures and Magnitudes, of a Reddiſh co⯑ [...]ur: ſome of which ſtones bear the Image and Repre⯑ [...]ntation of a Heart, others of a Crown, others of a [...]hoe, a Leg, a Last, a Weavers Shuttle &c. And that [...]hich renders it yet the more ſtrange is, when theſe [...]ones are raiſed many of them have the ſame figure and [...]ape below on the one ſide, that they have above on [...]e other; which ſtreet all beholders look on as very wonderful. I ſaw a part of the Garden Wall of the Houſe of Skeal, decored in the forepart thereof with [...]heſe ſtones, we intended to have ſent a parcel of them [...]outh to our Friends as a rarity, if they had not been [...]orgot at our return from Zetland. Whether theſe [...]tones be ſo laid and figured by Art or by Nature will [...]e hard to determine. For there is no Houſe nigh to [...]his ſtreet, neither are the ruines of any which former⯑ [...]y have been there, to be ſeen. So puzling are the Works of God to the moſt ingenious and accurate ob⯑ſervers of Providence.

At the Loch of Stennis in the Mainland, A Circle of ſtones; in that part thereof, where the Loch is Narroweſt, both on the Weſt and Eaſt ſide of the Loch, there is a Ditch; within which there is a Circle, of large and high ſtones [...]erected: The larger Round is on the Weſt-ſide, above [...]00 paces Diameter: the Stones ſet about in form of [...] Circle within a large Ditch, are not all of a like quantity and Size, tho ſome of them, I think, are upwards of 20. foot high above ground, 4 or 5. foot broad, and a foot or two thick, ſome of which ſtones are fallen, but many of them are yet ſtanding, be⯑tween which there is not an equal diſtance, but many [44] of them are about 10. or 12. foot diſtant from [...] other. On the other ſide of the Loch over which [...] paſs by a Bridge laid with ſtones after the manner of ſtreet, the Loch there being ſhallow, are two ſton [...] ſtanding, of a like bigneſs with the reſt, whereof o [...] hath a round hole in the midſt of it, at a little diſtan [...] from which ſtones, there is another Ditch, about ha [...] a Mile from the former, but of a far leſs Circumferenc [...] within which alſo there are ſome ſtones ſtanding ſomething bigger then the other ſtones on the We [...] ſide of the Loch, in form of a Semicircle, I think ra⯑ther then of a Circle, opening to the Eaſt, for I ſ [...] no ſtones that have fallen there ſave one, which wh [...] ſtanding, did complete but the Semicircle. Both [...] the Eaſt and Weſt end of the bigger Round, are tw [...] green Mounts, which appear to be Artificial: In on [...] of which Mounts were found,Mr Wal⯑lace Deſ⯑c [...]iption of Orkney. ſaith Mr. Wallace [...] 9. Fibulae of ſilver, round, but opening in one plac [...] like to a Horſe-ſhoe.

It is moſt probably thought that, theſe were the High Places in times of Pagan Idolatry, whereon ſacrifice were offered, and that the two Artificial Mounts o [...] Earth, ſerved for the ſame purpoſe, or were the pla⯑ces where the Aſhes of the Sacrifices were caſt, as ſom [...] w [...] I have [...] Bo [...]thius in the Life of Ma [...]nu [...] King o [...] Scot [...] obſerveth, That the People called theſe hug [...] ſtones drawn together in the form of a Circle, the Ancient Temples of the Gods,Beeth in vitam Mains. Ʋt Populus ad Religio⯑nem mov [...]entur priſcis ſacris novas quaſdam & ſolenne [...] Ce [...]en on [...]as ſuperaddidit (Rex nimi [...]um Mainus) Du [...] Im [...] ⯑mo ta [...]ibus peragendas, ut immenſis ſaxis varus in Regionu [...] locis (ut res expoſcebat) in coronidem admotis, eorumqu [...] maximo ad Meridiem porrecto, cujus pro ara foret uſus [...] Victimae ibi Diis immortalibus ſacrificium cremarentur. Ex [...] tantum [...]i fidem, vel hoc noſtro avo ingentia ea ſaxa auct [...] in Circ^o, priſca Deorum Phana Vulgus appellar. Many o [...] the Countrey do ſay, That in the larger Round th [...] [45] Sun, and in the leſſer the Moon was Worſhipped by [...]e old Pagan Inhabitants of theſe Iſles.

And indeed to build their Altars of earth or unpo⯑ [...]hed ſtones ſeems to have been the cuſtom of Ancient [...]mes, and even of the firſt Ages of the Rom: Empire, Apologet Chap. 25. [...] the Learned Spencer endeavours to prove from "Ter⯑tullian, Etſi a Numa concepta eſt curi [...]ſitas ſuperſtitio⯑ſa, nondum tamen aut Simulacris aut Templis res Divina apud Romanos conſtabat. Frugi Religio & pauperes ritus, & nulla Capitolia certantia coelo;Spencer. de Legihus Hebraeo⯑rum. ſed temeraria de ceſpite Altaria, & vaſa adhuc Samia, & [...]nidor ex illis, & Deus ipſe nuſquam. And further confirming the ſame from Cluverius writing of the German Antiquities. And concludes with giving the Rea⯑ [...]n why the Gentiles of old were ſo taken with rude, [...]digeſted, artleſs and unpoliſhed Altars and places of [...]orſhip, becauſe they Judged them more holy and [...]ore acceptable to the Gods: "Gentes antiquae, ſaith [...]he, Natura vel Traditione doctae, naturalia omnia [...]rudia licet & impolita, ſanctiora & Diis ſuis gratiom crediderunt, And here in theſe Monuments nothing [...]ke Art or Form: the Stones are not poliſhed nor all of [...] like thickneſs, height or breadth, nor of an equal di⯑ [...]tance from each other.

In the Iſle of Sanda there is a Chappel called the Chappel of C [...]et, wherein there is a Grave 19. foot long,Great bones found in Sanda. which when opened ſome years ago, there was nothing [...]ound in it ſave the piece of a Back-bone of a Man, [...]reater then the Back-bone of any Horſe. This the Miniſter of the place declared unto me, who ſaw the Grave opened, and meaſured it from the Head to the [...]oot ſtone thereof, who alſo for ſome time had the [...]one in his Cuſtody. The vulgar Tradition is that [...]here was a Giant there, who was of ſo tall a ſtature [...]hat he could have ſtood upon the ground and put the Copſtone upon the Chappel, which no Man now liv⯑ [...]ng by far could do.And in Weſtra.

There are alſo Bones found in Westra between Tukey [46] and the Weſt Church, as great as Horſe-bones, as the Miniſter of Weſtra informed me. And ſome there have been lately of a Gigantick ſtature in theſe Iſles: A [...] that Man who died not long ſince, whom for hi [...] height they commonly called the Meikle Man of Waes.

Several Obelisks through the Coun⯑trey.Through this Countrey we find ſeveral Obelſiks o [...] very high and great ſtones ſet up, as one in the Iſle o [...] Eda, another on the Mainland within a Mile of B [...] &c. they appear to be much worn, by the waſhing o [...] Wind and Rain, which ſhewes they are of a long ſtand⯑ing, and it is very ſtrange to think how in theſe place [...] and times they got ſuch large ſtones carried and erected ‘Mirabile profecto quiſquis ea ſpectaverit,Boeth. in vitam Ma [...]us. quâ art [...] quibus Corporis viribus lapides tantâ mole in unu [...] locum fuerint congeſti.’ The Reaſon and End of their ſetting up cannot be certainly known, however we may conjecture, that probably it was in remembrance of ſom [...] famous Battle, or hath been the Ancient Funeral Monu⯑ments of ſome renouned Perſons, who have fallen i [...] Battle or been buried there. Several of which ſtone and Monuments are to be ſeen in many places through Scotland; and in Norway they are very common, a [...] our Travellers who have ſeen them, inform me. An [...] it is like theſe ſtones have been ſet up by the Norve⯑gians, when they poſſeſſed this Countrey.

The Bi⯑shops of Orkney at their, 1ſt. Landing uſed to be preſented with a large Cup full of ſtrong drink.In Scapha about a Mile from Kirkwal to South-We [...] it is ſaid there was kept a large and ancient Cup, whic [...] they ſay, belonged to St Magnus King of Norway, wh [...] firſt inſtructed them in the Principles of the Chriſtian Rel [...] ⯑gion and founded the Church of Kirkwal, with which fu [...] of ſome ſtrong drink their Biſhops at their firſt Landin [...] were preſented; which if he drank out, they highly prai [...] ⯑ed him, and made themſelves to beleive, that the [...] ſhould have many good and fruitful Years in his tim [...] This Buchannan relates, and as Mr. Wallace obſervet [...] is ſtill believed there, and talkt of as a truth. ‘Scyphu [...] habent antiquum, ſaith Buchannan, quem Divi Magn [...] qui primus ad eos Chriſti doctrinam attulit, fuiſſe praed [47] cant; Is cum ita ſuperet communium Poculorum ampli⯑tudinem, ut e Lapitharum Convivio reſervatus videri poſſit, eo ſuos Epiſcopos initio ad ſe adventantes ex⯑plorant: Qui plenum uno hauſtu ebiberit (quod admodum raro evenit) miris cum laudibus proſe⯑quuntur, atque hinc velut laeto Augurio ſequentium Annorum proventum animis praecipiunt.’ The Countrey [...]o this Day have the Tradition of this, but we did not [...]e the Cup; Nor could we learn where it was. And [...]deed that which renders this the more credible, is [...]at the Norvegians at preſent as Merchants and Mari⯑ [...]ers inform us, have a cuſtom like unto this, that if any [...]ome to pay them a viſite, eſpecially if they be ſtrangers, [...]hey uſe to preſent them with a large Cup full of drink which they take not well, if their gueſts drink not out. They ſay, ſome of theſe Cups will contain three Mutchkins, others a Pint, and ſome a Quart of our Meaſure.

The Wind, and Sea,The Sea in a ſtorm beats moſt vehement⯑ly on the Rocks. in any ſtorm beats moſt tem⯑peſtuouſly and vehemently, here upon the Rocks: a [...]ittle to the Weſt of Kerston in the Mainland, there is a Rock called the Black Craig of Stromneſs, about 70 Fath⯑oms high; Upon which in a Storm the Sea from the Deucaledonian Ocean doth beat with ſuch violence and force, that the Waves breaking thereupon, cauſe the Wa⯑ter to riſe to the top of the Rock like Snow and flee like a whit Sheet before the Wind. blaſting the Corns for 3 or 4 Miles behind the Rock, if it fall out In, or a little before Harveſt; And this it doth likewiſe in ſeveral other places of the Countrey, as ſome Gentlemen who knew it to their experience, did declare. Yea ſo great is the violence of theſe Tempeſtuous Seas, that thereby ſome great Stones are caſt out, and others are worn, ſo that large Caves in ſome places run from the Sea within the Rock, beneath the Ground for ſome conſiderable way, I ſaw one of theſe at the Eaſt-end of the Mainland in the Pariſh of Holm, it is all covered above with the Rock and Earth, ſave that within theſe few Years, ſome of the [48] Rock and Earh fell in, or was blown up (as they ca [...] it) in one night, by a violent Storm blowing from Sou [...] Eaſt, hence now there is a hole in the Hill above, lik [...] the Eye of a Coal-pit, which is terrible to look do [...] into: There is another, ſomething like this in Sou [...]-Ronalſha. In theſe Caves, Doves and Sea Fowls in gre [...] numbers uſe to Neſtle.

Several ſtrange Fiſhes ſometimes ſeen here; and little Whales &c.Several ſtrange Fiſhes are here taken, or caſt aſhor [...] ſometimes, which are, they ſay, very beautiful to loo [...] upon, but we never had occaſion to ſee any of them There are likewiſe a great number of little Whales, whic [...] ſweem through theſe Iſles, which they call ſpout-Whale or Pellacks, ſome of which I have ſeen; and they tel [...] us it is dangerous for Boats to fall in among them, le [...] they be overturned by them: The former Year Anno 1699. There were 13 of theſe Whales driven aſhor [...] upon Gairſay's Land, and 11 upon Egleſha's, about on [...] time, as the Gentlemen themſelves did inform me, o [...] which Oyl is made, very benificial to the Maſters of th [...] Ground. The Ottars alſo, Seals or Selchs, and othe [...] ſuch Sea-Creatures are very numerous, but now thei [...] number is ſo much diminiſhed, that not one o [...] Twenty is to be ſeen, and they have found ſevera [...] of them lying dead upon the Shore; ſome hence ob⯑ſerving that the Judgements of GOD as to ſcarci⯑ty of ſuitable Proviſions to theſe Creatures, are upo [...] the Waters alſo.

The Tides Rapid,The Tides here are ſo rapid that they will carry [...] Ship alongs with them, tho the Wind be contrary, [...] not very ſtrong, and in going among theſe Iſles, ſcarc [...] are they out of one Tide, when they are engaged in an [...] other; and in going from place to place they will find ſonetimes the ſame Flood for them, and at other times againſt them, and ſo with the Ebb. Eſpecially there are ſome impetuous Tides which they call Rousts, cauſed by the ſtrong current of a Tide meeting with a narrow paſſ⯑age; the quickneſs and rapidity, of the Tide, compenſing the [49] narrowneſs of the paſſage, as it is in Lanes, which [...]tens the blowing Wind, and makes the Wind, to [...]w ſo much the harder, in a proportion to the preſ⯑ [...]e it ſuffers by the ſtraits of the Lane; So may we [...]on concerning the Rouſts which run among the Iſles. [...]ave ſeen ſome of theſe Rouſts boyl like unto a ſeeth⯑ [...]ot, with their high, white, and broken Waves and [...]t in a calm Summer Day, when there was no Wind [...]wing. At one time Sailing by the ſide of Laſha Rouſt [...]ween Sanda and the Calf of Eda, the Rouſt getting [...]ne hold of us, turned about the head of our Boat [...]y quickly, and tho there were 4 able young Men [...]ing, beſide the help we had by the Sail, we could [...] without great difficulty make our way through it: [...]hey tell us, that if the greateſt Ship in Britain fell into [...]s Rouſt, where it is ſtrongeſt, it would turn her ab⯑ [...] at its pleaſure, and detain her till the Tide fell weak, [...]n tho ſhe had a right favourable Gale. Theſe Rouſts [...] more dangerous in an Ebb then in a Flood, the Ebb [...]ng obſerved ſtill, taeteris paribus, to make the fouleſt [...]t moſt Tempeſtuous Sea, and eſpecially they'le Foam and [...]g, if the Tide be running in the Winds eye: And when [...]re is any ſtorm, they will cauſe any Ship or Boat to ſtand end and be ready to ſink her in the fall. Several of which [...]uſts we had occaſion to meet with, but the Lord [...]ought us ſafe through.

Tho the General Current of the Tide be ſtill the [...]e, from Weſt to Eaſt in a Flood,Some ſtrange Re⯑ma [...]ks a⯑bout the Tides. and from Eaſt to [...]eſt in an Ebb, yet running with violence upon the [...]nd, they cauſe a contrary motion in the Sea next to [...] which they call Easter or Weſter Birth, according to Courſe. And there are ſome things which have been [...]ſerved as very ſtrange in the running of the Tides, [...] that it flows two hours ſooner on the Weſt ſide of [...]nda then it doth on the Eaſt: And at Hammoneſs in [...]e ſame [...]ſle, both Ebb and Flood runns one way ex⯑ [...]pt at the b [...]ginning of a quick ſtream, when for 2 or 3 [...]ures the Flood runs South; in North Faira the Sea [50] Ebbs 9 hours, and Flows but 3 But the reaſons of [...] Phenomena will not be ſo intricate or hard to reſ [...] if we conſider the ſituation of theſe Iſles, whe [...] Tide ſee [...]s to alter his Courſe, for the Flood co [...] from the Weſt, to the Weſt ſide of San [...]a, it t [...] ſome time before it can get about the point [...] the Iſle to the South ſide thereof, ſo in North [...] the Sea is more open whence the Flood cometh, the Ebb runeth through ſeveral Iſles, turning m [...] points of Land before it come to North Faira, w [...] cannot but retard its motion: So at Hammoneſs Sanda, the Situation of the place much determineth running of the Tide.

The rapid motion of theſe Tides makes ſailing dangerous.The rapid motion of theſe Tides among the Iſle [...] and their meeting with one another makes it very d [...] ⯑gerous, and ſometimes more eſpecially in a Calm, a Miniſter there told us, that he was never near death in his Life, then in a de [...]d Calm, when night Weſtra, for they ſaw the Sea coming, which th [...] thought ſhould ſwallow them up, and there being [...] Wind they could not get out of the way, but God ſo [...] ⯑dered it in his wiſe Providence, that the Sea or ſw [...] of the Sea which they feared, broke on the fore-pa [...] of the Boat, and ſo they eſcaped.

There are frequently F [...]n-men ſeen here upon t [...] Coaſts,Finmen frequently ſeen here. as one about a year ago on S [...]onſa, and an [...] ⯑ther within theſe few Months on Weſtra, a Gentle⯑man with many others in the Iſle looking on him nig [...] to the ſhore, but when any endeavour to apprehen [...] them, they flee away moſt ſwiftly; Which is ver [...] ſtrange, that one Man ſitting in his little Boat, ſhou [...] come ſome hundred of Leagues, from their ow [...] Coaſts, as they reckon Finland to be from Orkney; [...] may be thought wonderfull how they live all th [...] time, and are able to keep the Sea ſo long. His Bo [...] is made of Seal skins, or ſome kind of Leather, [...] alſo hath a Coat of Leather upon him, and he ſitte [...] in the middle of his Boat, with a little Oar in h [...] [51] [...], Fiſhing with his Lines: And when in a ſtorm he the high ſurge of a wave approaching, he hath [...]y of ſinking his Boat, till the wave paſs over, leaſt [...]by he ſhould be overturned. The Fiſhers here [...]rve that theſe Finmen or Finland-Men, by their [...]ing drive away the Fiſhes from the Coaſts One [...]e [...]r Boats is kept as a Rarity in the Phyſicians [...]l at Edinburgh.

On the Weſt ſide of Papa Westra, Some men appearing on a Holm before a boat was caſt away. between it and [...]ra there is an Holm, wherein once there was a [...]e Chappel, whereof ſome of the ſide-walls are only [...]w ſtanding, in which they ſay, there were ſeven Si⯑ [...]s buried, who were Nuns, and deſired to ly in this [...]lm, about whoſe Graves this Chappel was built: [...]out a Year ago, there were ſeen ſeveral times at mid⯑ [...]y, about 20. Men walking on that Holm, among [...]hom there was one higher and greater then the [...], who ſometimes ſtood and looked unto the Chap⯑ [...], this my Informer with a hundred People in the [...]e of Papa ſaw, who could atteſt the ſame: After [...]hich appearance there was a Boat caſt away on that [...]olm with 4 Men in her, who were all loſt.

In the Links of Tranaby in Weſtra, Old bury⯑ing places. and of Skeal in the Mainland, waſhen from the Weſt by the Deucaledonian [...]cean, ſome places are diſcovered when the Sea waſh⯑ [...]h away the ſand,Mr. Wal⯑laces de⯑ſcription of Orkney. which ſhews that ſuch places have [...]en Cemeteries or burying places for their dead of [...]d, of a ſquare figure, and the ſtones are joined to⯑ [...]ether by ſome cement, when opened Earth and ſome⯑ [...]imes Bones are found in them, The reaſon ſome do give of this is becauſe the way of interring dead bodies among many of the Ancients, (as among the Saxons [...]n the Iſle of Britain) was not in deep Graves, but un⯑der Clods or Turfs of Earth made into Hillocks. But none of theſe we had occaſion to ſee, Concerning that Rock called Leſs, ſurrounded with the Sea, nigh to the Noup-head in Weſtra, upon which ſome ſay, if any Man go having Iron on him, the Sea will inſtantly [52] rage, ſo that no Boat can come nigh to take him [...] nor the ſea be ſetled till the piece of Iron be caſt [...] to it; when in Weſtra we enquired about it, [...] found no ground for the truth thereof.

A remark⯑able provi⯑bence.Mr. Wallace narrates a remarkable Providence, wh [...] the Miniſters here confirmed to us, as a truth; C [...] ⯑cerning four Men in Stronſa who u [...]ed to [...]iſh togeth [...] in one Boat, among whom there was one John [...] [...]ne whole Wife being deſirous he ſhould inter [...]it [...] Fiſhing for a time, he having purchaſſed a great plen [...] of Fiſh, which he not being ſo willing to do, on a d [...] ſhe riſing before him ſtopped the windows and o [...] [...] places in the Houſe▪ whereby light was let in▪ and [...] went to the fields; the other three Men after their uſual manner went to Sea, whoſe Boat ſhe ſaw over⯑turned and themſelves periſh; upon which ſhe return⯑ed home to her Husband: and no doubt would have given the ſad News of his Neighbours periſhing, no [...] without Joy congratulating, that he was not this d [...] in company with them: But upon her coming into her houſe ſhe had yet a more melancholick fight; her Husband lying dead, choaked in that veſſel, wherein they uſed to make Urine.

An honeſt Man in Orkney told me, that ſome years ago,Inſtance of God's mer⯑cy. when he was coming home with Timber and ſome other things in his B [...]at, from Innern [...]ſs and was almoſt the length of the Iſle of Eda, where he lived, the Boat turned and lay upon her ſide, but the Sails being ſpread in the water hindred the Maſt to go down, and her altogether to overturn, much of what they had in went to the Sea, and he with the other Seamen in Company ſat upon the ſide of the Boat, and ſo were for ſome hours toſſed up and down, whither the Tide did drive them, they in the mean time comforting and refreſhing one another with places of Scripture and notes of Sermons, which lately they had heard, and ſometimes puting up earneſt Prayers to God whom the Wind and Seas do obey; At length God not turning [53] away his Mercy from them, nor their Prayer from [...]im, graciouſly gave ear unto their cry, and [...]rought them all ſafe aſhore together with the Boat on [...]he weſt ſide of Sanda, much of the Timber and what [...]hey had in being driven aſhore to that ſame very place [...]efore them. A great Mercy when not only they, but [...]heir Boat, and moſt of their Loadening, were ſaved, [...]ome of theſe Men whom I am acquainted with, and [...]o judge Godly, cannot ſpeak of this deliverance but [...]ith great concernedneſs and affec [...]ion, which makes [...]e to think this Mercy not to have been a caſt of [...]ommon Providence, but a gracious Return of their [...]rayer.

The Effects of Thunder in this Country are very [...]urpriſing; 1670,The effects of thun⯑derſtrange The Steeple of Kirkwal was brunt with Lightening: And A [...] 1680 there was a Gen⯑ [...]leman in Stromneſs in the weſt end of the Mainland [...]nd a ſtall, wherein there were 12. Kine, the Thun⯑ [...]r killed every other one, killing one and paſſing [...] other, ſo that there were 6. killed, and 6. alive; [...]his the Miniſters confirmed as a certain truth to their [...]nowledge.

There was a Man that died not many years ago,An Eagle taketh up a Child. [...]ho when a Child being left in the Field, (the Mo⯑ther, as ſome ſay, ſhearing at a little diſtance from [...]im) was taken up by an Eagle, and carried from [...]he Pariſh of Orphir in the Mainland, to the Iſle of Waes [...]ver 3 or 4 Miles of Sea, but in God's good Pro⯑ [...]idence, the Eagle being quickly purſued to his Neſt [...]hither the Child was taken, he was recovered with⯑ [...]ut any hurt.

It was obſerved that in theſe Iſles before the late earth, there were ſeveral ſtrange Birds ſeen,Several ſtrange birds ſeen. ſuch as [...]hey have not ſeen formerly nor ſince. One of the Mi⯑niſters told me, that one Bird frequented his Houſe [...]bout that time for a quarter of an Year, which was [...]f a black, white, red and green Colour: As alſo he [54] ſaw another, all ſtripped or ſprainged on the back, which Birds were beautiful to behold.

There was a Monſter about 7 Years ago born of one Helen Thomſon Spouſe to David Martin Weaver in North Ronalſha, A monſter born. having its Neck between Head and Shoulders a quarter and an half of an yard long, with a Face, Noſe, Eyes, Mouth &c. to the Back, as well as before, ſo that it was two Faced, which Monſter, came living into the World: This the Miniſter declared unto us, having taken the Atteſtation of the Women preſent at the Birth, he not being on the place at the time: And it is ſaid that a certain Woman ſhould have wiſhed this unto the Mother, whom ſhe alledged had lied upon her, in her wrath wiſhing, that if ſhe ſpoke a lie ſhe might bring forth a Monſter, which accordingly came to paſs in God's Holy and Wil [...] Providence.

Concern⯑ing mines, shells &c.Some ſay there are ſeveral Mines of Silver, Tin Lead &c. Alſo ſome Veins of Marble and Alabaſter Buchanan commends this Country for white and black Lead,Buchan. Hiſt. L. 1. of which there is to be had as good as in Bri⯑tain Sex diverſis in locis hujus Inſula, Metalla ſu [...] plumbi albi & nigri tam probi quam uſquam in Britan [...] reperiatur, As alſo ſeveral kinds of fine Shells to b [...] found on the ſhore and Rocks, but we had occaſion t [...] ſee none of them, ſave ſome of theſe Nuts, where [...] they make Snuff-Boxes.

CHAP. V. Some Heatheniſh and Popiſh Rites, Charm &c. yet remaining in the Orkney-Iſles, are glanced at.

Concern⯑ing their ſuperſtiti⯑ous [...]e,BEfore that I bring to a cloſe my Diſcourſe concern⯑ing Orkney, I ſhall give an Account of ſome C [...] ⯑ſtoms yet prevailing among them, which can be con⯑ſtructed [55] to be nothing elſe ſave the ſour dregs of Pa⯑ [...]an and Popiſh Superſtition and Idolatry, yea and ma⯑ [...]y of them ſuch as the Charms practiſed by them [...]o be the meer and woful effects of pure Devilry, and [...]ot the product of Natures Operation.

But leaſt I ſhould be miſtaken I judge it not amiſs [...]o premiſe,A caution given. That not all nay nor the generality of Orkney [...]re hereby impeached, as guilty of theſe evils, for I know there are many judicious and wiſe Men, and I hope ſome real Chriſtians among them, who abhor [...]nd deteſt ſuch things as much as any, but hereby ſome [...]ooliſh and ſilly ones are intended, whom deceiving [...]nd being deceived, Satan leadeth Captive at his will; Nor yet that all the Iſles are alike lying under the Charge, for there are ſome of them, whoſe Inhabitants [...]re generally more Moral and Diſcreet: Neither is it [...]lledged, that ſuch ſinful and corrupt Cuſtoms pre⯑vail as much now as formerly, for they are much away [...]y what they were, and that even of late: Nor is [...]t denied but that honeſt and faithful Miniſters will [...]abour to have them aboliſhed every where, ſeeing alas! There is much horrid wickedneſs and manifeſt Devilry [...]oo, with us in the South, as well as with them in the North, ſo that no part of the Kingdom can plead, not guilty.

But my principal Scope and Deſign,My deſign in this chap. is to manifeſt [...]he Works of Darkneſs, and to ſhew how buſy the God of this World is in deluding and blinding poor Souls, and now ready we are to be his drudges and ſlaves; that ſo theſe things being wiſely and ſeriouſly conſidered, all may be induced to make a Chriſtian improvement thereof, both with reſpect to themſelves and others, whom they are called to pity and pray for, If peradventure God will give them Repentance to the acknowledging of the Truth, that they may be recovered out of the ſnare of the Devil; And more eſpecially that the General Aſſem⯑blies and other Judicatories of this Church as they are called, may be pleaſed to continue their Fatherly Care [56] over theſe Northern Iſles, that tho they bee remo [...] from them as to Situation, yet they may be near unto them, as to a warm and kindly affection, which o [...] Church hath not been wanting in hitherto.

Some things pro⯑per to be premiſed.And 1ſt. we would take notice, that the old Max⯑ime Ignorance is the mother of Devotion, ſo much crye [...] up by the Papiſts and their judicially blinded Clergy, i [...] ſo far from being the Mother of Devotion, that it i [...] both the Mother and Nurſe of the moſt damnable Er⯑rours, Superſtitions and Deluſions, as theſe Iſles kno [...] to their ſad Experience; for Ignorance of the Princi⯑ples of our Holy Religion, doth greatly prevail among the Commonalty, ſo that as one of their Miniſters no [...] without ſome concern and greif for the ſame, told me▪ Not one of a hundred in ſome of their Pariſhes can read. How this comes to paſs, that the People ſhould be ſo groſsly Ignorant I ſhall not undertake to determine, it is commonly imputed to their want o [...] Schools, through the Country, which indeed I will not ſay, but is one great cauſe thereof, and therefore that this ſo very dreadful an evil may be effectually re⯑medied, care ſhould be taken by all concerned, that Schools be Erected in every Pariſh, and a competen [...] Salary provided for the Maſters Maintainance and En⯑couragement; and that alſo in every Iſle where there is any number of inhabitants, ſome Perſon ſhould be appointed for the Inſtruction and Education of their Children; and until that ſuch a courſe be taken, the People generally will be Ignorant ſtill, and the Mini⯑ſters as to the Preaching part, may complain in the words of the Prophet,Iſa. 28 9. Whom ſhall we teach knowledge and whom ſhall we make to underſtand doctrine? then that are weaned from the milk, and drawn from the breaſts For it is much about one to Preach to Auditors beſot⯑ed with Stupidity and Ignorance, as it is to give Ex⯑hortation unto Babes, Therefore it is that our Church in her Aſſemblies hath ſo frequently and ſeriouſly preſſed the Learning of Children to Read, and the providing [57] o [...] Schools for that end, Paſtours to be diligent in that [...]itiating and neceſſary Work of Examination and [...]eaching Catechetick Doctrine, and the Concurrence [...]arents with both in laying out themſelves for the [...]ſtruction of their Children, as well by themſelves by others; Godly Miniſters well knowing that the [...]cceſs of Ordinances and Edification of their People, [...]pendeth much thereupon,Iſa. 53.11. Jo. 17.3. &c. as the means which the [...]rd uſeth to bleſs for the bringing in of his Elect; [...]nowledge being ſo neceſſary to the Being of Faith, at the latter is ſometimes expreſſed by the Name of [...]e former.

And ſeeing they retain not God in their knowledge, [...]is no wonder they be given over to a Reprobate find, to do things which are not convenient;God's judgment upon the ignorant No [...]onder they frequent their old Chappels for Super⯑ [...]tious Ends, of which the corrupt and purblind Rea⯑ [...]n of Man hath been always very fond: No wonder [...]t being in the dark without the Lanthorn of the [...]owledge of Scripture Revelation, they miſtake their [...]y, and by the uſing of Charms and conſulting of [...]armers, they run to Beelzebub in ſtead of having re⯑ [...]ſe to the God of Iſrael. Which Ignorance to be the [...]uſe of theſe Evils, will appear the more evidently, [...] we conſider, that in theſe Iſles, where there is a [...]eater meaſure of the knowledge of God, there is not [...]th a following of theſe horrid and helliſh Practices.

There are ſeveral old Chappels in theſe Iſles, which [...]e People reſort unto, but that which I heard of, as [...]oſt famous is St. Tredwels Chappel in Papa Weſtra, Several old chappels through the Iſles. [...]ich they have ſuch a Veneration for, that they will [...]me from other Iſles in conſiderable numbers to it, [...]me of us having occaſſion to be on that Iſle, we ſaw [...]s Chappel, ſituated on a ſmall low Rock, within a Loch [...]mmonly called St. Tredwels Loch, St. Tred⯑wels chap⯑pel. to which we [...]ſſed by ſtepping-ſtones, before this Chappel door there [...]s a heap of ſmall ſtones, into which the Superſti⯑ous People when they come, do caſt a ſmall ſtone or two [58] for their offering, and ſome will caſt in Money; the Ch [...] ⯑pel hath been but little, and is now Ruinous, only ſo [...] of the Walls are ſtanding, which the People are ſo [...] from ſuffering to be demoliſhed, that they labour [...] keep them up, and tho the Proprietour of the grou [...] hath ſome way encloſed it, yet this proves not effect [...] to prevent the frequenting thereof. At the North E [...] ſide of the Loch nigh to the Chappel there is a [...] ſtone ſtanding, behind which there is another ſtone [...] ⯑ing hollowed in the form of a Manger, and nigh to [...] there is another high ſtone ſtanding with a round [...] through it, for what uſe theſe ſtones ſerved, [...] could not learn; whether for binding the Horſes [...] ſuch to them as came to the Chappel, and giving the [...] meat in the hollow ſtone; or for tying the Sacrific [...] to, as ſome ſay, in times of Pagan Idolatry; is uncert [...]

St. Tre⯑dwels Loch held Medi⯑cinal.This S^t Tredwel's Loch nigh to the Eaſt end of whi [...] this Chappel is, is held by the People as Medici [...] whereupon many diſeaſed and infirm Perſons reſort to ſome ſaying that thereby they have got good; A [...] certain Gentleman's Siſter upon the Iſle, who was [...] able to go to this Loch without help, yet return without it, as likewiſe a Gentleman in the Country who was much diſtreſſed, with ſore Eyes, went to the Loch and Waſhing there became ſound and whole, [...] he had been at much pains and expence to cure t [...] formerly. With both which Perſons, he who was Mi⯑niſter of the place for many Years, was well acquai [...] ⯑ed, and told us that he ſaw them both before and al [...] the Cure: The preſent Miniſter of Weſtra told me, t [...] ſuch as are able to walk, uſe to go ſo many times ab [...] the Loch, as they think will perfect the Cure, bef [...] they make any uſe of the Water, and that without ſpe [...] ⯑ing to any, for they beleive, that if they ſpeak, [...] will marr the Cure: Alſo he told that on a cer [...] Morning not long ſince, he went to this Loch, [...] found ſix ſo making their circuit, whom with ſ [...] [59] difficulty he obliging to ſpeak, ſaid to him, they [...]me there for their Cure.

How it cometh to paſs, that this Loch ſhould ac⯑compliſh the cure of any. I leave to my Reader to judge,How the water of this Loch should ac⯑complish the cure of any exa⯑mined. whether it be by any Medicinal or healing Vertue in the Water, which I incline not to think, the Cure being [...] circumſtantiated; or if the force and ſtrength of the [...]agination of the Perſons afflicted, may have any ten⯑ [...]ncy that way; which, ſome judge, hath its own in⯑ [...]ence, in ſome ſuch like caſes: Or, rather, by the [...]d and aſſiſtance of Satan, whom God in his Holy and [...]ſe Providence may permit ſo to do for the further [...]dicial blinding and hardning of theſe who follow [...]ch unwarrantable and unlawful courſes: God ſo puniſh⯑ [...]g them, by giving them up to ſuch ſtrong deluſions. [...]et I hear, that when they have done all, that is uſ⯑ual for them to do; as going about the Loch, waſhing their Bodies or any part thereof, leaving ſomething [...] the Loch, as old Clouts and the like &c. It is but few, in whom the effect of healing is produced. As [...]r this Loch's appearing like Blood, before any diſ⯑ [...]ure befal the Royal Family, as ſome do report, we [...]uld find no ground, to beleive any ſuch thing.

Theſe Chappels the People frequent,Theſe Chapels frequented alſo for Prayer, and paying of Vowes. as for other [...]ds, ſo for Prayer, they placing a kind of Merit there⯑ [...], when performed in ſuch places, and this they ob⯑ſerve more than private Retirements; And if they be [...]nder any Sickneſs, or in any danger, as at Sea, they [...]ill vow ſo to do. And when they go to the Chappels [...] pay the Vows taken on, they uſe to lay ſeveral [...]tones, one above another, according to the number [...] Vows which they made; ſome of which heaps we [...]w in St. Tredwells Chappel. And none muſt go empty [...]anded, but leave behind them ſomething, either a peice of Money, or of Bread, or a Stone, which they judge will be ſufficient.

As at all times, when occaſion offers,Eſpecially in the time of Lent. they obſerve theſe Superſtitious Practices, ſo eſpecially during Lent, [60] they will not neglect their Devotions in ſuch places; a [...] on Easter-Sunday ſeveral Boats will be ſeen going [...] them from other Iſles. And tho' their Miniſters both privately and publickly have ſpoken to them, yet they cannot get them to forbear and abandon theſe Cuſtom [...] And the Miniſter of South-Ro [...]alſha told us, that ma [...] of the People in that Iſle, eſpecially ſuch as live at the ſouth end thereof nigh to the Kirk, called our Lady Kirk, whereof, tho now the Walls only be ſtanding without a Roof, yet the very Stones thereof they re⯑verence, and are not far from adoring; And ſo ten [...] ⯑cious are they, that when in rough weather, he hath procured the conveniency of a Barn to Preach in, ye [...] the People obliged him to come to this ruinous Fabrick elſe many of them would not have heard: They an [...] now about the putting of a Roof on this Church, which the Gentlemen of the Iſle are not inclined to, judging other places more commodious for it to be built in, but Propoſals of this nature do not reliſh with the People they being ſo ſuperſtitiouſly wedded to the place of i [...] preſent Situation: Whereupon the Heads of Fam [...]e will rather by themſelves contribute to the repairing of this Old Church than ſuffer a new one to be built in any other place of the Iſle, tho leſs to their coſt.

In this old Fabrick of our Ladys Church, there is a Stone lying about 4 foot long,Concern⯑ing a one lying in Our Ladys Church. and 2 foot broad, but narrower and round at the two ends, upon the ſurface of which Stone, there is the print of two feet, con⯑cerning which the Superſtitious People have a Traditi⯑on, that St. Magnus, when he could not get a Boat on a time to carry him over Pightland Firth, took this stone, and ſetting his Feet thereupon, paſſed the Firth ſafely, and left the Stone in this Church, which hath continued here ever ſince. But as I think, and ſome more judicious People do likewiſe ſuggeſt, it hath been a Stone, upon which under Popery, the Delin⯑quents ſtood bare footed ſuffering Penance. It is like when thus St. Magnus came over the Firth, it hath been [61] that time, when he was ſeen riding through Aber⯑ [...]e [...], giving the firſt account of the defeat of the Engliſh Bannockburn and afterward was ſeen going over Pight⯑land Firth. And indeed both are alike deſtitute of any [...]adow of Truth, credible only by theſe ſuperſtitious [...]d ſilly ones, whom the GOD of this World hath [...]inded.

Several of the Iſles have their Saints Days which [...]me do ſuperſtitiouſly obſerve.Several of the Iſles have their Saints Dayes. There is one day in [...]arveſt, on which, the more ignorant, eſpecially in [...]uld, ſay, if any work the Ridges will blood. The [...]ark ſome call our Ladys Hen. And ſome ſuch Po⯑ [...]ſh Dregs are to be found: The Lord preſerve this [...]and from Poperys Inundation; for as it is credible [...]om what hath been ſaid, and ſome better acquainted [...]ith this Country did inform us, That if Popery get [...]oting again, from the fears of which in the good [...]ovidence of GOD, we were lately delivered,) [...]n any [...] the Inhabitants of theſe Iſles, would readily embrace [...] and by retaining ſome of theſe old Popiſh Rites and [...]uſtoms, ſeem to be in a manner prepared for it.

Next to glance at their Charms,Concern⯑ing their Charms. which I ſhall breif⯑ [...] do, and not give any Account, how they perform [...]em, left thereby I ſhould ſeem to point out to any, how [...]try the experiment of this Helliſh Art and tremen⯑ [...]us Devilry, which I think I do ſufficiently guard [...]ainſt, not only by barely reciting there are ſuch▪ but [...] by proper Precautions adduced in this Chapter.

They have a Charm, whereby they ſtop exceſſive [...]ooding in any, whatever way they come by it,A Charm to ſtop ex⯑ceſſive bleeding. whe⯑ [...]er by or without External Violen [...] ▪ The name of [...]e Patient being ſent to the Charmer, he ſaith over [...]me words, (which I heard) upon which the Blood [...]tantly ſtoppeth, tho the blooding Patient were at the [...]eateſt diſtance from the Charmer. Yea upon the ſay⯑ [...]g of theſe words, the Blood will ſtop in the blooding throats of Oxen or Sheep, to the aſtoniſhment of Spe⯑ [...]ators. Which account we had from the Miniſters of [...]e Country.

[62] Another for the Toothach.There is a Charm likewiſe they make uſe of for [...] Toothach, whereof I had the following inſtance fr [...] an Honeſt Man worthy of Credit. Some years ag [...] there was one who uſed this Charm, for the ab [...] ⯑ing the pain of one living in Eda, tormented therewith and tho the Action then was at a diſtance, the Cha [...] ⯑er not being preſent with the Patient, yet according the moſt exact calculation of the time, when the Cha [...]er was performed by the Charmer, there fell a livi [...] Worm out of the Patients Mouth, when he was at Su [...] ⯑per. This my Informer knew to be a Truth, [...] the Man from whoſe Mouth it fell is yet alive in t [...] Iſle of Sanda. Whether this Worm was generated the corrupted part, and ſo fell out by the Devils mean at the uſing of the Charm; or the Worm was brought by an evil Spirit aliunde, to the mouth, and thence [...]a [...] ⯑ling down, I ſhall not determine.

Thei [...] Beaſts and Boats ſprinkled with fore⯑ſpoken Water.Alſo when the Beaſts as Oxen, Sheep, Horſes, &c. are Sick, they ſprinkle them with a Water made [...] by them, which they call Fore-ſpoken Water; wherewith likeways they ſprinkle their Boats, when they ſuccee [...] and proſper not in their Fiſhing. And eſpecially o [...] Hallow-Even, they uſe to ſein or ſign their Boats an [...] put a Croſs of Tar upon them, which my Informer ha [...] often ſeen. Their Houſes alſo ſome uſe then to ſein.

They have a Charm alſo whereby they try if perſon be in a decay or not, and if they will die thereof; which they call Caſting of the Heart.A Charm for any under a decay. Of this the Miniſter [...] Stronza and Eda told us, he had a very remarkable Paſſage, in a Proceſs, yet ſtanding in his Seſſion Re⯑cords.

Several other Charms.Several other Charms alſo they have, about thei [...] Marriage, when Women in Travel, when their Co [...] is calfing, when Churning their Milk, or when Brew⯑ing, Or when their Children are ſick, by taking the [...] to a Smith (without premoniſhing him) who hath ha [...] a Smith to his Father, and a Smith to his Grand-Father And of ſeveral ſuch like Charms, we had an accou [...] [63] from the Miniſters, as likeways, how theſe Charms [...]re performed; but of theſe enough.

Although theſe Charms ſometimes, yet not always they produce the deſired Effects:Theſe Charms not al⯑wayes ef⯑fectual. As in the inſtance ſtaying of Blood, one of the Charmers Wives fell [...]ce a Blooding, which he by all his Art was not able ſtop; Whereupon he is ſaid thus to have expreſſed [...]ſelf, "I have ſtopped the Blooding of 100, and yet I cannot do it to my Wife.

That ſuch admirable Effects upon the uſing of the [...]harms are produced by the Agency of Demons;Acts of Aſſem⯑blies are ſtanding againſt ſuch. As by the Aſ⯑ſemb. 1640. [...]hink few, if any, will doubt, God ſo permitting it [...] be in his Holy and Wiſe Providence, for the fur⯑ther puniſhment and judicial blinding of thoſe, who [...]low ſuch unlawful courſes, and the Devil thereby engaging his Slaves more in his Service: Yet not al⯑wayes the effects deſired and exſpected do follow, [...]at all may know the Devil is a chained one, and can [...] nothing without the permiſſion of a Soveraign God, [...]o is Lord over all. Our Aſſemblies ſenſible of the [...]eat Sin and Evil that is in uſing theſe Charms, and [...]nſulting of Charmers, have made ſeveral Acts both againſt the one and the other, ſtrictly inhibiting and diſ⯑charging all ſuch Helliſh Practices, and requiring all [...]iniſters diligently to ſee to the obſervance and Execu⯑tion thereof.

Evil Spirits alſo called Fairies are frequently ſeen in ſeveral of the Iſles dancing and making merry,Fairies frequent⯑ly ſeen. and ſometimes ſeen in Armour; Alſo I had the account of [...]e wild Sentiments of ſome of the People concerning [...]em; but with ſuch I ſhall not detain my Reader, We [...]ſtning our Voyage to Zetland.

CHAP. VI. A Deſcription of Zetland. The Country in General Deſcribed; The Soil, Product, Manners of the People &c. hinted at.

Situation of Zet⯑land. ZETLAND lyes to the N. Eaſt from Orkney, be⯑twixt the 60. and 61 Degree of Latitude, the [...] being about 20. or 21. Leagues betwixt the Sta [...] Head of Sanda the Northernmoſt point thereof, and Sw [...] ⯑burgh-Head the Southern moſt point of Land in Zetland over a very rolling and ſwelling Sea▪ wherein the conſtantly runs the ſtrong Current of a Tide▪ which cauſing the Sea to riſe with its ſwelling waves, the whole paſſage betwixt Orkney and Zetland, is but [...] one continued Rouſt, or ſtrong and impetuous Tide eſpecially about the Fair Iſle, ſtill ſuch a great Sea goet [...] even in the greateſt Calm, that the Boats are like [...] ſling the maſts out of them; and our Boat-maſte [...] told us, that frequently when he had been paſſing t [...] Fair Iſle in a dead Calm, the Boat hath been ſo toſſe by the ſwelling Sea, that it would have taken in wa⯑ter on every ſide. And I have heard Mariners ofte [...] declare, that there is more hazard in theſe Seas, the [...] in going to the Eaſtern or Weſtern Indies. The Fa [...] Iſle (of which more afterward) is reckoned to b [...] but 8. Leagues from Zetland, whereas it is about 12. or 13. Leagues from Orkney, ſo that we ſhall conſider it, together with the Iſles belonging to Zet⯑land.

The Iſles Zetland conſiſteth of moe Iſles than Orkney whereof ſome are more, others leſs conſiderable, beſide [65] many Holms ſerving for Paſturage.Mainland. The largeſt of [...]em is that which they call the Mainland, 60. Miles [...]ng from South or South and by Weſt, to North or [...]orth and by Eaſt; as to breadth not all alike, for [...]o in ſome places it be 16. miles, yet in other it ſcarce one Mile broad, it being ſo interſected with [...]es, Sounds or Lochs, that it may be ſaid to conſiſt [...] a great number of Promontories or Branches of [...]and ſtretching themſelves into the Sea.

All this Country conſiſting of ſo many Iſles, goeth [...]nder one common Name, called by ſome Hethland, Original of the name Zet⯑land. [...] others Zetland, and alſo Schetland. The Etymo⯑ [...]gy of which Names is very uncertain, as was that of Orkney; ſome aſſigning one Reaſon of the Name, [...]nd others another at their pleaſure. That which [...]emeth moſt probable is, that this Country is called [...]ethland, becauſe it is very Mountainous and riſeth [...]igh above the waters, ſo a high land in Norſe is called Hoghland: It is called Zeland or Zetland, becauſe of the great Sea wherewith on all hands it is encompaſſed, Zee being Sea in that Language. And called Schetland, The Forti⯑fication Schatt or Scat in Denmark levyed an. 1691. is a Tax with a witneſs or very great, ſaith the modern account of Denmark. becauſe of a kind of Cuſtom or Tribute called Scat, which they payed to their Norvegian Maſters, when they were in Poſſeſſion of this Country, and the Tri⯑bute or Cuſtom impoſed upon the Inhabitants of Nor⯑way to this day is called Scat, and tho Zetland be now annexed to the Crown of Scotland, yet there is a cer⯑tain Rent or due, which the Gentlemen and ſome others here do pay Yearly to the King or his Stew⯑ard, which is ſtill called Scat. I ſay altho we cannot be poſitive in determining the reaſons of the Name, yet it ſeems to be of a Norvegian or Daniſh Original.

Seeing I have already had under conſideration,By whom it was firſt planted and poſſeſ⯑ſed. by whom Orkney was firſt Planted and Inhabited, and how it hath been diſpoſed of hitherto, I judge it not very needful for me to add any more to that purpoſe concerning Zetland, for it is more then probable, that about the ſame time, by the ſame Perſons, hath Zet⯑land [66] alſo been Inhabited, ſeing there are many mo Pi [...] Houſes remaining there, and ſome of them as outward appearance in better caſe, then are to found in Orkney, and always our Hiſtorians in th [...] Deſcriptions of theſe Northern Iſles of Orkney and Z [...] ⯑land have reckoned them as under the Government the ſame Maſters; Therefore without further premiſe Preliminaries of this nature, I come to conſider the p [...] ⯑ſent ſtate of the Country.

The Coun⯑try moſſey and but thinly In⯑habited.Altho the Country be large, yet it is in many places thinly Inhabited, and that for the moſt part upon Coaſts, and indeed otherwiſe it cannot well be, there are few if any places in Zetland, but they are wi [...] in two Miles of the Sea, which they incline to do [...] nigh unto, being more convenient for their Fiſh [...] and for the gooding of their Land, which is ordina [...] by Sea-ware, hence it would be incommodious them upon theſe accounts to be at any diſtance from Beſides, the Country is generally Moſſey and Mounta [...] ⯑ous, all covered over with Heath, yea the far gr [...] ⯑eſt part thereof is as one great Moſs or Quagmire m [...] up of Water and Earth blended together, which k [...] of ground would require much Labour and Expe [...] to bring in either to be Grazing, or Corn-Land, i [...] all in many places they could get it done, for fr [...] Scalloway on the Weſt ſide of the Mainland to Le [...] on the Eaſt ſide thereof, four Miles over land, it is a continued tract of Moſs and Moor, ſo that the [...] not one Houſe all that way, till we come near u [...] Lerwick, whereas we would think that this peice ground ſhould be better Inhabited then many oth [...] conſidering the great reſort of Strangers in the Sum [...] time thereunto, if Nature had not laid ſuch incon⯑veniences in the way, which would prove ſo diffic [...] to overcome.

The peo⯑ple diſcreet and fashi⯑onableThe People are generally Diſcreet and Civil, no [...] Ruſtick and Clouniſh as would be expected in ſuch place of the World, which may be much owing [67] [...]eir Converſe and Commerce with Strangers, who [...]pair to theſe Iſles in the Summer Seaſon, with whom [...]e inhabitants do keep a conſtant Bartering or Trade; [...]hich Trading as it makes them the better to live, ſo [...]may tend not a little to the Cultivating of their Man⯑ [...]s. They are alſo very Faſhionable in their Clothes, [...]d the Gentry want not their fine Stuffs, ſuch as Hol⯑ [...]d, Hamburgh &c. do afford, ſo that they are to be ſeen as good an Order and Dreſs, as with us in the South: [...]he Bowrs, Fiſhers and other Country People alſo do [...] honeſt-like and decent in their Apparel, as becometh [...]eir ſtation.

They alſo have always been in repute for Hoſpitality, Hoſpi⯑table. [...]d indeed we have ſeen no other to contradict that which is ſpoken, ſo much to their Commendation and [...]aiſe. for at any time, when we had occaſion to viſite [...]entlemen, Merchants or others, we were always by [...]em kindly Entertained. And ſo much they are ſaid [...] be given to this commendable peice of Humanity, [...]at if they do purchaſe any thing from Foreign Mer⯑ [...]ants, which they put any value upon, ſuch as Wheat⯑ [...]ead, ſome ſtrong Liquor &c. Even the Country people will not uſe it themſelves, but reſerve it for the [...]tertainment of Strangers; As for thoſe old Inha⯑ [...]tants of the Daniſh Blood, of whom it was ſaid, That [...] were ſeeming Fair, but really Falſe, and ſuperlatively [...]oud, they are much worn out of this Country; and [...] at any time Ships be driven aſhore upon their Coaſts, [...] Inhabitants uſe very kindly and Humanely to treat [...] diſtreſſed Company, of which Humane Treatment [...] Ship belonging to the Firth had a late experience, [...]ing broke on the Coaſt there in December laſt, as [...]e of the Ships Company informed me. Such a kind [...]d generous Reception, Merchants and Mariners meet [...]t with in many places, upon which they are unhap⯑ [...]ily caſt, from whom better things would be expected.The body of the peo⯑ple igno⯑rant. to the matters of God and Religion, the Body of [...] People are ſaid to be very Ignorant, by theſe who [68] know them better then we can be ſuppoſed to have ha [...] acceſs to do, conſidering the ſhort time of our ſtay and abode among them; Which may be imputed to thei [...] want of convenient Schools for the Inſtruction o [...] their Youth in many places of the Country; Which alſo was aſſigned as the reaſon why [...]gnorance doth ſ [...] much prevail in the Orkney Iſles. Which great Evil [...] the Mother and Leader of many others, all ſhould la⯑bour to redreſs as they are ſeverall called and concern⯑ed, Authority alſo interpoſeing their Command, and not denying their Countenance and Encouragement thereunto.

Yet fre⯑quent Goſ⯑pel ordi⯑nances.Yet we muſt ſay, that the People do frequent the diſpenſing of Goſpel-Ordinances, and ſeem to hear with ſome meaſure of Attention and Reverence; and as ap⯑peared to us, not without ſome ſeriouſneſs, and con⯑cern upon their Spirits, which after hearing continued with ſome, as we found by our Converſe with them which encouraged us to ſet and keep up two Week days Sermons at Lerwick during our ſtay in the bounds which the People thronged unto, thereby ſhewing great reſpect to the Ordinances diſpenſed by us: S [...] that matters looked far otherwiſe, then what was ex⯑pected by our ſelves and many others before we cam [...] to this Country. And indeed after conference upon this head, all of us judged, that if things were got pu [...] into a better order, and ſome evils removed, which forbear to mention, knowing that they will come un⯑der the cognizance and conſideration of others, wh [...] are in a capacity to redreſs them, there might be Harveſt through Grace.

No latine ſchool there.Altho there be a Latine School at Kirkwal in Orkney yet there is none in all this Country, which cannot but be very prejudicial to the Inhabitants, the Advance⯑ment of the Education of their Youth being the eb [...] hindered, many promiſing and pregnant Ingenys loſ [...] and Letters diſcouraged; For Gentlemen are either obliged to keep their Children at home, and ſo the [69] muſt want that peice of Learning, which tends ſo much to Form and Foliſh their Mindes, and to com⯑pleat them as Gentlemen or elſe ſend them to other Countries, where Education is to be had, which many are averſe to do, not only becauſe of the Charge and Expence they will be at, but alſo of the fear they will be in, in ſending their Children over Sea, and keeping them so long at ſuch a diſtance from them. As for Chaplains, tho they could be had, which would be with difficulty in this corner, yet all Gentlemen who have Children to Educate, cannot well bear the Charges of bringing them over from Scotland and keeping them with them for ſo long a time. Whereupon the Mi⯑niſters there are very deſirous, that the Government may be Addreſſed for Encouragment to School-Maſters through the Country, and particularly that a Latine School be ſet up either at Lerwick or Stalloway.

Engliſh is the Common Language among them yet many of the People ſpeak Norſe or corrupt Daniſh, Their Lan⯑guage. eſpecially ſuch as live in the more Northern Iſles, yea ſo ordinary it is in ſome places, that it is the firſt Lan⯑guage their Children ſpeak. Several here alſo ſpeak good Dutch, even Servants though they never have been out of the Country, becauſe of the many Dutch Ships which do frequent their Ports. And there are ſome who have ſomething of all theſe three Languages, Engliſh, Dutch, and Norſe. The Norſe hath continued ever ſince the Norvegians had theſe Iſles in Poſſeſſion, and in Orkney (as hath been ſaid) it is not quite extinct, tho there be by far more of it in Zetland, which many do commonly uſe.

It is obſervable that the Names of the Deſcendants of the old Inhabitants,Names. differ from the Names of others now numerous among them, for theſe only have a Name without a Sirname, ſave what is taken from their Fa⯑thers Name, and by adding Son or Daughter thereun⯑to, Exemp. Gra, Agnes Magnus Daughter, her own Name is Agnes, her Fathers is Magnus, to which Daugh⯑ter [70] is added, which is the whole Denomination or De⯑ſignation under which ſuch a Woman goes; So M [...] ⯑rion Peters Daughter, Laurence Johns Son &c. Which they ſay is yet the Daniſh way of Expreſſing and Diſ⯑tinguiſhing Names. And for further clearing, if ther [...] be two Men or Women of the ſame Name, they u [...] alſo to deſign them by the places where they ordin⯑arily reſide, as Agnes Magnus Daughter in Trebiſter that ſo ſhe may be diſcriminated from another Woman of the ſame Name living in another place. It is pro⯑bable that hence flowed theſe Sirnames, ſuch as Wil⯑liamſon, Robertſon, Jamieſon, Davidſon &c. which d [...] abound with us in Scotland. In ſome words alſo their Pronunciation doth differ from that of ours, as for In⯑ſtance, they often uſe to leave out the Letter H in the [...] Pronunciation, as if it did not belong to the Word, ſ [...] Three they pronounce as Tree, Thou. as Tou or Tu. &c. They have alſo ſome Noriſh words which they com⯑monly uſe, which we underſtood not, till they were explained, ſuch as Air which ſignifies a Sand Bank Oyſe an Inlet of the Sea, Voe a Creek or Bay &c. And theſe words are much uſed both in Zetland and Ork⯑ney.

The Coun⯑try better inhabited then for⯑merly.It would appear that the Country is now much bet⯑ter Inhabited, than formerly ſome ages agoe it hath been, for we hear but of few who leave this Country, having once fixed their abode therein, tho there be ma⯑ny who have lately come to it from Orkney, Caithneſs, Sutherland. Buchan and other places eſpecially in the North of Scotland. So that in all Lerwick, the moſt conſiderable Town in the Country, there are but very few whoſe Grand-fathers have lived in thoſe Iſles. And in Lerwick it ſelf about 30 years agoe there were only 4 Houſes, and ſome years before there were none at all, tho now there are between two and three hundred Fa⯑milies in it.People healthful and many live to a good age.

Tho the ground be generally bad, and the Climate cold, yet it is not unwholeſome living here, as appears [71] from the many vigorous old People, that abound in the [...]ſles, whoſe health I think is rather more firm and [...]ound then with us, neither are they lyable to ſuch fre⯑ [...]uent ſickneſs, whither this is to be imputed to the [...]eeneſs and purity of the Air, or to the quality of their Diet, or the Sobriety of their living, or to all theſe and the like I ſhall not judge. Yet they tell us they uſed [...]o live much longer in former Ages then now they do, as of one [...]airvile, who lived 180 years, and all his time never drank Beer or Ale; His Son alſo and Grand-Children lived to a good old Age, who ſeldom or ne⯑ver drank any other thing ſave Milk, Water and their Country-Bland. It is ſaid alſo that this Tairvils Father lived longer then himſelf: There was alſo one Laur⯑entius in the Pariſh of Waes, whoſe Heir Oyes do yet live there, who arrived at a great Age, whom Buch⯑anan mentioneth, that he lived in his time, marrying a Wife after the 100. year of his Age, and in the 140. went a Fiſhing with his little Boat when the Sea was Tempeſtuous. Salubritatis firmitudo in Laurentio quo⯑dam nostra atate apparuit, qui poſt Centiſimum annum uxo⯑tum duxit: centeſimum quadrageſimum annum agens, Buchan. Hiſt. L. [...] ſaviſ⯑ſimo mari in ſua naviculâ piſcatum prodibat: Ac nuper nulla vi gravioris morbi labefactatus, ſed ſento ſolutus deceſſit. For ſurely, as all Skilful Phyſicians do grant, there is nothing more Conducive to the maintaining of a Sound and Healthful Conſtitution, then a ſober and regular Diet, whereas they who live otherwiſe, to ſpeak with reſpect to 2d. Cauſes do impair their Health, and cuts themſelves off, often in the midſt of their days; eſpe⯑cially ſuch as feed high, and indulge themſelves in drink⯑ing ſtrong Liquors, which tends to the exhauſting of that Natural and Innate Heat, the Fountain of our Ani⯑mal-Life; whereas it is obſerved of all theſe, who ar⯑rived at ſuch a great Age that they ſeldom if ever drank any ſtrong Liquor.

[72] They ob⯑noxious to the ſcurvy.There is no Sickneſs or Diſeaſe this Country i [...] more ſubject unto then the Scurvey, as is Orkney like⯑wiſe which is occaſioned doubtleſs by their Salt-meats, Fiſhes upon which many for the moſt part do live, Sea-Air &c. And ſometimes this Scurvey degenerates into a kind of Leproſy, which they call a Baſtard ſcurvey, and is diſcerned by hairs falling from the Eye-bree [...], the Noſe falling in &c. Which when the People come to know, they ſeparate, and ſet them apart for fear of Infection, building Huts or little Houſes for them in the feild, I ſaw the Ruines of one of theſe Houſes about half a mile from Lerwick, where a Woman was for ſome Years kept for this Reaſon. This Baſtard Lepro⯑ſy, they judge, is cauſed by the many grey Fiſhes, ſuch as Sillucks, Piltocks, &c. which they eat; for Bread failing many of the People in the Summer time, that often for 4 or 5 Months, they will not taſte thereof, theſe Fiſhes are almoſt their only meat, and eſpecially the Livers of theſe Fiſhes, which are thought to be more unhealthful then the Fiſhes themſelves, and they much incline to eat, do occaſion this: The drinking alſo of hot Bland (which is a kind of a Serum of Milk, of which more afterwards) together with theſe Fiſhes, do beget ſuch corrupt humours to the diſ⯑tempering of the Body. Theſe Scorbutick Perſons are more ordinarily in Dunroſsneſs and Delton, and more rare in other places; And that becauſe they have mo Grey Fiſhes in theſe two Pariſhes, then in others▪

And it hath been obſerved often by the Inhabitants, that when in Holy Providence any Sickneſs cometh upon or breaketh up in the Country,When any ſickneſs breaketh up in the Country, it quickly ſpreads. Small pox lately there. it uſeth to go through them like a Plague, ſo that ſince we came of [...] the ſmall Pox hath ſeiſed upon many both old and young and was ſo univerſal, that upon one Lord's Day there were 90. Prayed for in the Church of Le [...] ⯑wick all ſick of the ſame Diſeaſe, whereas when we were, there a few weeks before, there was not one that we knew ſick thereof. They ſay a Gentleman [...] [73] Son in the Countrey who had lately gone from the [...]uth, and was under it when he came home, brought with him, which very quickly ſpread among the people, the old as well as the young; and ſo ſad have [...]en the deſolating effects thereof, that one told me [...]ho arrived here lately from the place, that he verily [...]dgeth the third part of the People in many of the [...]es are dead thereof.

Altho many of the Inhabitants have each their par⯑ticular Trades and Employments wherein more eſpe⯑ [...]ally they lay out themſelves, and are taken up about,Their Employ⯑ment. [...]et are they all generally ſome way acquainted with [...]e Sea, and can with ſome dexteritie and skill attained [...] Experience manage their Boats, not only becauſe of [...]eir frequent paſſing from Iſle to Iſle, and going over the [...]oes or Lochs which ly in upon, and cut the Mainland, [...]it by Reaſon of their great Fiſhing, not only for their [...]n uſe, but for the uſe of Merchants, who buy their [...]iſhes, or give them the Value in foreign Commodi⯑ [...]es: Hence moſt of the Inhabitants, not only have ſome [...]aſturage for their Cattel, and ſome Corn Land about [...]eir Houſes which they manure, but alſo their parts [...] Boats for the end forſaid. Yet there are many who [...]llow no Trade but their Fiſhing.

Beſide their Fiſh-Trade with foreign Merchants,They trade with Ork⯑ney. they [...]o likwiſe drive a great Trade with Orkney, from which [...]very Year ſeveral Boats do paſs to Zetland Loaden with Corns, Meal, Malt, &c. upon the coming whereof they [...]ften wait for Barley ſeed, tho the laſt Year they had Conſiderable Crop, ſo that the Barley Seed was ſown before the Boats came over. The Orkney Men alſo bring ſometimes Stockins, Ale, and the like which they know [...] be vendible here, Hence every Year conſiderable [...]ums of Money go from Zetland to Orkney, And ſome [...]ave told me that moſt of the Money they have in Orkney, is from Zetland. So great is the Advantage that theſe Iſles do reap by their Neighbourly Commerce with one another, for as Zetland could not well live [74] without Orkne'ys Corns, ſo neither could Orkney b [...] well without Zetlands Money.

Their Money from for⯑reign Mer⯑chants.As Orkney have much of their Money from Zetla [...] ſo Zetland have all theirs from foreign Nations Countreys whoſe Merchants traffick with them, as f [...] Holland, Hamburgh, B [...]eme &c. The Dutch Mo [...] doth Ordinarily paſs among them, as Stivers, half S [...] ⯑ers, and ſince the Rates of the Money were raiſe [...] Scotland, many here have been conſiderable gainers the Ducket-douns, which is the ſpecies of Money [...] the Hollanders bring more ordinarily with them.

The Kings Rents.The Kings Rents are but the 3d. part of what t [...] are in Orkney, The Bishop had no Rents from this Countrey. For tho this Countrey be by far gre [...] and more ſpacious then Orkney, yet it is not ſo well in bited, neither is the ground ſo good: Theſe Rents payed to the Taxmen in Butter, Oyl, and Money, T [...] Oyl is made of the livers of Fiſhes, and is ſent So for the making of Soap, or is otherwiſe diſpoſed of, may be moſt Advantageous. The Biſhops had no Re [...] from this Countrey; And tho it belong to the Dio [...] of Orkney, and is a conſiderable part of that Charge, we did not hear that ever any of theſe ſole Paſtour their Dioceſſes, as ſome are pleaſed to call them, viſi [...] theſe bounds.

Little Cornland here.There being ſo little Corn-Land here, is the ca [...] why none of the Revenues of the Croun are payed Meal or Corns, whereas in Orkney it is far otherwi [...] as hath been ſaid; for any Corn-Land they have is or⯑dinarily but a few Ridges nigh to the Coaſts, for any diſtance from the Sea, and in many places a [...] nigh unto it, there is nothing but a Moſſy and Mo [...] ⯑tainous Deſert covered with Heather, and only ſo [...] places pleniſhed with a few Kine, Sheep, or Shelt [...] tho in other places ye will go ſome Miles and ſee no [...] This Moſs and Moor which ſo much aboundeth, r [...] ⯑ders Travelling very dangerous, even to the Nati [...] themſelves, and ſo deep is it in many places and t [...] in the Summer and droughty ſeaſon, that Horſes c [...] [75] [...]t paſs it, and Men on foot not without difficulty and [...]zard: As in the Iſle of Yell the Miniſter in going to the [...]hurch, from his Houſe is obliged to go on foot 8. [...]iles almoſt, wading up to the knees. And indeed the [...]ſieſt and ſafeſt way of Travelling is by Sea in Boats [...]out the skirts of the Iſles, which alſo is not without [...]nger.

And tho the greateſt part of this Countrey be thus [...]oſsy and Mooriſh,Some pleaſant Spots through the Coun⯑trey. yet there are ſome pleaſant Spots [...] it well furniſhed with Graſs and Corn, as nigh to [...]alloway, Ʋſtneſs &c. in the Mainland, ſome places in [...]e Pariſhes of Dunroſneſs alſo on the Main, in the [...]fle [...]f Unst &c. Hence ſome Years they will have 20. Fold [...] Increaſe, but this is more rare, for at other times in [...]veral places they will ſcarce have the double of their [...]ed. They make much uſe of Barly-Bread, which [...]ppears to be fairer then their Oat-Bread, for their [...]rly they take to be the beſt Grain, it agreeing bet⯑ [...]r with the ground then Oats. And as it is in Ork⯑ney, ſo is it here, if any white Corn be brought unto [...]e Countrey for ſeed, it will ſoon degenerate and be⯑ [...]me like their oun.

I think the Kine and Sheep are of a greater Size,Concern⯑ing their cattel and harveſt. [...]en they are in Orkney, tho their Horſes be of a leſs; [...] for the Sheep I take them to be little leſs then they [...]e in many places of Scotland, they Lamb not ſo ſoon [...]s with us, for at the end of May, their Lambs are [...]ot come in Seaſon, their Harveſt alſo is much latter, [...]r they Judge it very early if they get their Corns in [...]gainſt the Middle of October, They obſerve that our [...]eaſons will be two months before theirs, but I do [...]ot think they differ ſo much:

If their Sheep were well kept,Their ſheep. it would be very [...]eaſant to behold them in Flocks, they being of di⯑ [...]ers colours; ſome of a pyed, others of a broun, others [...]f a broun and white, others of a black colour, ſome [...]ſo have black ſpraings on their backs, others on their [...]reheads; and ſome ſay they have as great a number of [76] black Sheep, as they have of white; which diverſity colours would render them very beautiful, if they we [...] taken a due Care of; for they neither waſh nor c [...] their Sheep, nor have they any ſhears for that end; b [...] pulls the wooll off them with their hands, which as is painful to the beaſts, ſo it makes them look not well favoured, but like theſe with us, whoſe w [...] is ſcratched with briars or thorns.

Their or⯑dinary drink.Their ordinary drink is Milk or Water, or Milk a [...] Water together, or a drink which they call Bland, m [...] common in the Countrey, tho not thought to be ve [...] wholeſome; which ſo they make up, having take away the Butter from their churned Milk, as likewi [...] the thicker parts of this Milk which remains after t [...] Butter is taken out, they then pour in ſome hot W [...] ⯑ter upon the Serum, Whey or the thinner part of t [...] Milk in a proportion to the Milk. Which being do [...] they make uſe of it for their drink, keeping ſome f [...] their Winter proviſion: And this drink is ſo ordina [...] with them, that there are many People in the Cou [...] ⯑trey who never ſaw Ale or Beer all their Lifetim [...] The Ale is rare among them, they making bread much of their Barley grain, but the Hamburgh Be [...] both ſmall and ſtrong is to be had in plenty tho at [...] good rate 6 ſh. or 8 ſh. our pint, which Beer and oth [...] Liquors, as alſo wheat Bread the Hamburghers bring wi [...] them in the Month of May for Sale, hence ſometim [...] Liquors as Beer, Ale &c. cannot be had for money, [...] the Hamburghers bring it.

Victuals [...]earer then in Orkney.The great confluence of ſtrangers makes Kine, Shee [...] Hens and almoſt all Victuals to ſell at a greater rat [...] then in Orkney, for often when the Buſhes are her [...] they will give Double or Triple for a Sheep, or a He [...] then it is to be bought in Orkney for, for the Holland [...] with their Buſhes being Numerous on theſe Coaſt they ſend ſometimes a ſhore to buy freſh meats, whi [...] if to be had, they will not want for the price.

Fowls in plenty.They have Fowls eſpecially Sea-Fowls in great ple [...] ⯑ [...]y [77] which do frequent the Rocks, Holms, &c. which they take as they do in Orkney, and are very beneficial [...]o the Proprietours. There are alſo many Eagles, which do great prejudice and hurt to the Countrey; for the Lambs they will lift up in their Claws, and take whole to their Neſts, and falling doun upon the Sheep, they fix one foot on the ground and the other on the Sheep's back, which they having ſo apprehended, they 1ſt. pick but their eyes, and then uſe the Carcaſes as they pleaſe. All ſorts of Duck and Drake, Dunte, Geeſe, Cleck-Geeſe, Ember-Geeſe &c, they have as in Orkney.

They have many Crows but neither here nor in Ork⯑ney are they of that Colour which they are of with us.Crowes. [...]or their Head, Wings, and Tail, only are black, but their Back and Breaſt from the Neck to the Tail are of a Grey Colour, and the Countrey People look upon it as a bad Omen, when black Crows come to theſe Iſles, they portending that a Famine will ſhortly en⯑ſue.

There are many Conies in ſome places, but no Hares,Many rab⯑bets, no mair fowles or hares, few rats; no frogges or venomous creatures. neither are there any Moorfowls which are numerous in Orkney; ſome ſay that a few from Orkney have been brought over for triall, but they could not live here: No Poddocks or Froggs are to be ſeen, tho many in Orkney. Neither are there any Rats to be found, ex⯑cept in ſome Iſles, and theſe are greater then ordinary, and thought to come out of Ships, when riding at An⯑chor nigh to the ſhore, but they have Mice in aboun⯑dance. Neither are there any venomous Creatures in theſe Iſles. They have many Ottars, one of which was ſo tamed that it frequently uſed to bring Fiſhes out of the Sea to a Gentleman's Houſe in Haskaſhie, as one told me who knew the Truth thereof.

They have a ſort of little Horſes called Shelties, Concern⯑ing their horſes cal⯑led shelties then which no other are to be had, if not brought hither: from other places, they are of a leſs Size then the Ork⯑ney Horſes, for ſome will be but 9 others 10. Nives or Hand-breadths high, and they will be thought big Hor⯑ſes [78] there if eleven, and although ſo ſmall yet are they full of vigour and life, and ſome not ſo high as others often prove to be the ſtrongeſt, yea there are ſome [...] whom, an able Man can lift up in his arms, yet will they carry him and a Woman behind him 8 Miles for⯑ward and as many back: Summer or Winter they never come into an Houſe, but run upon the Mountains in ſome places in flocks, and if at any time in Winter the ſtorm be ſo great, that they are ſtraitned, for food, they will come doun from the Hills, when the Ebb is in the Sea, and eat the Sea-ware (as likewiſe do the Sheep) which Winter ſtorme and ſcarcity of fodder puts them out of Caſe, and bringeth them ſo very low, that they recover not their ſtrength till about St. Joh'ns Maſs-Day, the 24th. of June when they are at their beſt: They will live till a Conſiderable Age as 26, 28. or 30 Years, and they will be good riding Horſes in 24 eſpecially they'le be the more vigorous and live the longer, if they be 4. Years old before they be put to Work. Theſe of a black Colour are Judged to be the moſt durable, and the pyeds often prove not ſo good; they have been more numerous then now they are the beſt of them are to be had in Sanſton and Eſton, alſo they are good in Waes and Yell, theſe of the leaſt Size are in the Northern Iſles of Yell and Ʋnſt.

The Coldneſs of the Air, the Barrenneſs of the Mountains on which they feed, and their hard uſage may occaſion them to keep ſo little, for if bigger Hor⯑ſes be brought into the Countrey, their kind within a little time will degenerate; And indeed in the preſent caſe, we may ſee the Wiſdome of Providence, for their way being deep and Moſſie in Many places, theſe ligh⯑ter Horſes come through, when the greater and heavier would ſink doun: and they leap over ditches very nimbly, yea up and doun rugged Moſſy braes or hil⯑locks with heavy riders upon them, which I could not look upon but with Admiration, yea I have ſeen them climb up braes upon their knees, when otherwiſe they [79] could not get the height overcome, ſo that our Horſes would be but little if at all ſervicable there.

The great Fiſhing which they have upon the Coaſts,Their fishes nu⯑merous. makes the place deſirable to the Natives, and to be fre⯑quented by ſtrangers; it excelling any other place of the King of Brittan's Dominions for Herring, White and Grey Fiſhing: the White Fiſhing they call the Killin and Ling &c. their Grey, the Silluks and ſeths; there are alſo ſomtimes very ſtrange Fiſhes here to be found, As about 24. Years ago, there came a great number of ſmall thick Fiſhes into a Voe on the South ſide of Ne⯑ſton, they were of a Golden Colour, very pleaſant to behold, they were about the bigneſs of an ordinary Trout, and all of an equal Size; they being very nume⯑rous, the Countrey made much uſe of them, who Judged them very ſavoury, taſting Like a Turhot: And never before or ſince that time were theſe Fiſhes ſeen, in theſe ſeas: As my Informer an old Gentleman could remem⯑ber. Their Tusk is a rare Fiſh but more ordinary with them, of which more when we come to ſpeak of their Fiſhing. Alſo many rare Shells are to be found on the Coaſts, but we had not time to enquire and look after them.

Through the Iſles for fewel they have good Pites in aboundance; tho,Fewel. in ſome places they are at a diſtance from them, as theſe who live in the Skerries are obliged to bring them from other Iſles, as from Whalſey, and the paſſage being dangerous many boats are caſt away with them; ſome alſo living in Dunroſsneſs are at a loſs this way, they not having the Moſs at hand, as gene⯑rally they have in other places on the Main. Much broken Timber alſo is driven aſhore upon theſe Iſles, ſo that the Inhabitants of the Skerries truſt the one half of their proviſion to this driven timber: and broken Ships in great quantity often caſt aſhore; partly through the many Ships that ſpleet on theſe Iſles, and partly as the wrack of Ships caſt away at ſome diſtance, which is [80] brought here by the Ebb from Norway, or other place lying to the Eaſt of Zetland.

No trees.There are no trees in this Countrey more then Orkney we ſaw ſome old white and weather bear [...] Stocks ſtanding in Scalloway, for whatever Reaſons ma [...] be alledged for trees not growing in Orkney, far more [...] I Judge they will hold in Zetland both with Reſpect [...] the Air and to the Soil: There are alſo at Scatroway ſon [...] Gooſe and Rizzer-berrie buſhes which uſe every Yea [...] to be laden with fruit, which are a great rarity in the place of the World.

Many ex⯑celent herbs, Scurvey graſs in aboun⯑dance.Many excellent Herbs are found growing here, th [...] little knoun or made uſe of: A Certain Engliſh Phyſi⯑cian and skilled Botaniſt who was at Lerwick ſome Year [...] ago told our Hoſt, that there were many choice an ra [...]e Herbs here not to be found in England, They have much ſcurvey-Graſs; God ſo ordering it in his wi [...] Providence that Juxta venenum, naſcitur Antidotum, that ſeeing the ſcurvy is the common Diſeaſe of the Coun⯑trey, they ſhould have the Remedy at hand.

Much Lime-Stone.There is here much Lime-ſtone (tho for ought heard not to be found in Orkney) which in ſome place they have but lately come to the knowledge of, as i [...] Unſt but about 4. Years ſince; and in other places they know not yet how to uſe it, The Pariſh of T [...]ngw [...] (they ſay) conſiſts almoſt of Lime-ſtone, they having few if any other ſtones then ſuch.

Stones for building, broad.The Stones wherewith they build are generally broad, and like Flag-ſtones; by reaſon of which figure and ſhape the ſtones lying the more eaſily, the builder [...] are at leſs trouble in fitting them for the wall; and have obſerved that in ſome Houſes there is little Lime clay or any ſuch thing for cementing of the building which renders their dwelling ſo much the colder, the peircing Air paſſing through between the Chinks of the Stones, which they have no need of under this cold and airiſh Climate. But ſome of theſe Houſes they ma [...] deſignedly ſo build, that the Wind may have free paſ⯑ſage [81] through them, for drying of their Fiſhes, which [...]ouſes ſome ca [...]l [...]keas.

There are ſeveral ſuperſtitious Cuſtoms and Practi⯑ [...]s, which the more ignorant People follow,Several Superſti⯑tion Cu⯑ſtoms. ſome of which we will have occaſion to note in the ſequel of [...]is Diſcourſe, but not ſo many did we hear of, as there [...]e in Orkney. But I hope the vigilance and Diligence [...] our Church in inſpecting theſe Iſles, and putting all [...] their Duty, will prove a bleſſed Mean in the hand [...] God, for the eradicating and utter aboliſhing of theſe [...]elicts of Paganiſm and Idolatry.

Sailing about theſe Coaſts is often very dangerous,Sailing dangerous [...]hence the Waters prove Graves to many of the Inha⯑ [...]tants. While we were there in the Month of May a [...]at was caſt away going by the ſhore to Dunreſsneſs, [...]d a Man and his Siſter therein periſhed; and another [...]an in her was ſaved by getting upon the keel of the [...]at and ſometimes Boats are caſt away when not one [...]ved: About the Iſles are many blind Rocks, which the [...]atives ſometimes unhappily fall and break upon, ei⯑their through a Miſtake, or the Tide and Wind driv⯑ing them upon them: At other times the Wind riſing, [...]ſeth the Sea ſo to ſwell that the Waves breaking upon [...]eir ſmall Boats are ready to overſet them, and ſome⯑times do: Alſo tho the Wind be not ſo ſtrong, there will [...]me Flanns and Blaſts off the Land as to their ſwift⯑ [...]eſs and ſurpriſal ſomething like to Hurricanes, which [...]ting with a great Impetus or force upon their Sails, [...]verturns the Boat, and in a moment hurries them into [...]ternity: By ſuch a flan the La [...]d of Muna [...] a Gentle⯑man in this Countrey is ſaid to have periſhed the for⯑ther Year 1699. when within ſight of his ou [...] Houſe, [...]nd all that were in the Boat with him ſaid to be 9. [...]10, Perſons, ſave one ſervant, who eſcaped upon the [...]eel. I remember, that night we came to the Land of Zetland, our Seamen thought fit in their prudence not to Sail too nigh the Land for fear of ſuch flans. O [82] to be as Watchmen on our Towers looking out a waiting for the Lord's coming.

Little Com⯑merce in the Win⯑ter.For this cauſe it is, that during the Winter Sea [...] they have ordinarily Converſe or Commerce wi [...] none, except that Ships be driven in by ſtreſs of W [...] ⯑ther; for the open Boats dare not come, and the clo [...] decked not without danger, the Sea commonly at the time being ſo tempeſtuous, the Tides and Rouſts rapid, that they threaten all who come near them, w [...] being ſwallowed up; Therefore it is, as they tell u [...] that from October till April or May, they Ordinar [...] ſee no ſtrangers, nor know any News, which makes t [...] Winter ſo much the longer and weariſome unto them An Inſtance whereof we had, that the late Revolution when his Highneſs the Prince of Orange our preſent King was pleaſed to come over to aſſert our Liberties, a [...] deliver us from our fears, falling out in the Winter it was May thereafter before they heard any thing of [...] And that 1ſt. they ſay from a Fiſher-Man, whom ſome would have had arraigned before them, and impeach [...] of high Treaſon becauſe of his News, as ſome did [...] form us.

They ſometimes infeſted by Pirates.Their Countrey lying very open, and in many p [...] ⯑ces but thinly Inhabited, expoſeth them to the Hoſt incurſions of Pirates in a time of War, as of late the Frenches did much infeſt their Coaſts, ſome of their M [...] Landing did by ſhot Kill their Kine and Sheep, and take them away with them; yea ſometimes they ſpare not the Churches, but ſacrilegiouſly robbed them, pu [...] ⯑ling doun the Timber thereof as Seats &c. and taking them for burnwood; ſo they did to a Church in Nor [...] Mevan. But they never came into Braſsa Sound, le [...] they had been locked up within Land, Winds turning contrary.

Some light all the Night over in June.In the Month of June they have a clear light all t [...] Night over, for at the darkeſt hour thereof, you w [...] ſee clearly to read a Letter, the Sun ſetteth between 10. and 11. at Night, and riſeth between 1. and 2. [83] [...]e Morning, but for this they have ſo much the ſhor⯑ [...]r Day and longer Night in the Winter.

CHAP. VII. A particular Vien is given of the ſeveral Pa⯑riſhes, and moſt conſiderable Iſles in Zet⯑land.

THus far having Conſidered the ſtate of the Coun⯑trey in General,A brief Deſcrip⯑tion of the ſeveral Parishes with the Iſles there⯑unto be⯑longing. we come next to take ſome par⯑ [...]cular view of the Iſles, which that I may the better and [...]ore methodically do, I ſhall lay before my Reader [...]e ſeveral Pariſhes with ſome brief deſcription of the principal Iſles therunto belonging. For as to the Num⯑ [...]er of the Iſles, I never heard an Exact account given [...]ereof, there being many of them ſmall, wherein is [...]ly a Family or two, and ſo but little noticed.

The 1ſt.Parish of Dunroſs⯑neſs. is the Pariſh of Dunroſsneſs on the Mainland to the South, and is the Pariſh which lyes next to O [...]k⯑ [...]ey and Scotland, wherein are 3. Churches, in which [...]eir Miniſter performeth divine ſervice, Croſs-Kirk, [...]nwich, and Fair Iſle; In this Pariſh are ſeveral very [...]ood Voes or Harbours commodious for Ships to ride [...]. In this there is alſo much Corn-Land, ther ground [...]aring the Richeſt Grain, in many places not ſo Moſſy [...]d covered over with Heath, as other Pariſhes are, [...]hich makes them to have leſs fewel, tho more corn. Much of the Land here is ſanded, and the Sea almoſt early gaineth ſomething on the lower parts thereof; [...]e Land lying ſo low and ſandy in many places, is [...]onvenient for Conics, which abound here about the [...]e [...]s or ſouthern moſt point of Land. In this Pariſh, there is a great Fiſhing, This ſouthermoſt point hath two Heads, Swinburgh Head, and Fitwalls Head, Swinburgh and Fit⯑wals-Head two high [...]ocks ſeen by Mariners coming from the South at a great diſtance, which when diſcovered, they direct their Courſe towards them.

[84] St Ni⯑nians Iſle.To the North-Weſt of the Neſs lyes St. Ninians Iſl [...] very pleaſant; wherin there is a Chappel and ane Alt [...] in it, where on ſome ſuperſtitious People do burn Can [...] ⯑les to this Day. Some take this Iſle rather to be a ki [...] of Peninſula, joyned to the Main by a Bank of San [...] by which in an Ebb People may go into the Iſle, t [...] ſometimes not without danger.

The Fair Iſle.The Fair Iſle belongeth to this Pariſh, lying Leagues or 24. Miles to the South or South and by E [...] of Swinburgh Head, by Burhannan it is called Inſu [...]a [...]b [...] the pleaſant or pretty Iſle, Tho I do Judge FAIR m [...] be as well taken [...]roperly as Appellatively, for the [...] Faira or Fara, there being another Iſle lying to t [...] North of this which they call North Faira which rela [...] to another Faira by South; now there is no [...]ſle lying the South of this North Faira, which hath any nat [...] that can be interpreted Faira, but this Fair Iſle. Mo [...] over I neither did ſee, nor was I informed of any thin [...] that afford us any Reaſon, why this Iſle ſhould be appellatively taken and denominated bella or Fa [...] This Fair Iſle riſeth high above the Waters, and is ſe [...] by Mariners at a great diſtance; it i [...] about an Mile a [...] a half long from ſouth to North, and nigh to a M [...] in breadth, the ſide thereof towards the Weſt is a co [...] ⯑tinued ragged rock from one end to another, alwa [...] beat upon by the Impetuous currents of a ſwelling Se [...] above this Weſt-ſide is the Craig which they call t [...] Sheep-Craig, whereon there are no Houſes nor Co [...] Land, but Sheep uſe to feed: The ſide, lying to t [...] Eaſt is lower, declining towards the Sea; There are it two Harbours, one upon the Northern-End, looki [...] to Zetland, and another towards the Southern poi [...] but Ships or Boats do not ordinarily reſort thereunt [...] if not put to it,Inh [...]bi⯑tants and ſome Corn-Land and Pa⯑ſture in Fair Iſle. and better cannot do, for ſo it ha [...] been a ſafe shelter and refuge to many.

There uſe to be about 10. or 12. Families in it, b [...] now they ſay Death hath almoſt depopulate the Iſl [...] the ſmall Pox having lately raged there, and ſwe [...] [85] away two thirds of the Inhabitants, ſo that there is not [...] ſufficient number ſpared to Manage their Fiſh-Boats; that Gentlemans Son abovementioned, having tou⯑ [...]hed here in his way to Zetland: They have good Pa⯑ [...]turage for Sheep and Kine, and ſome Corn-Land, and [...]e very hoſpital and kind. Their Miniſter uſeth to [...]iſite them once in the Year, in the Summer time, and [...]aving with them about a Month, Preaching, Baptiz⯑ [...]ng their Children and doing other parts of his [...]a⯑ſtoral Work; after which he returning to Zetland, they [...]re without publick Ordinances till the next Years Revolution.

The Hawks, they ſay,Good Hawks there. which are to be had in the Fair Iſle, are the beſt in Britain, which uſe to flee to Zet⯑land, or Orkney for their prey, theſe being the neareſt Lands, and ſometimes they'le find Moor Fowls in their Neſts which they behoved to bring from Ork⯑ [...]ey, ſeeing there are none in Zetland, and the neareſt Iſle they could have them in, was Stronza or Weſtra, which is between 40. and 50. Miles of Sea, over which at one flight they muſt carry theſe Fowls to their Neſts.

Many Ships uſe to cruiſe about this Fair Iſle in the Summer time,Ships uſe cru [...]ſe there⯑about. and by it the Holland's Fleet going to or coming from the Eaſt-Indies, uſe to paſs, tho ſome⯑times as in the late Wars they Sailed by the North of Zetland, that they might be more free of danger. Ships alſo going to or coming from Norway or the Eaſt Sea frequently paſs this way, when Wind ſerveth them ſo to do; and this Fair Iſle being ſeen by them at 14. or 16. leagues diſtance, in a clear Day it is as a Myth or Mark for directing their courſes.

The 2d,Parish of Tingwal. is the Pariſh of Tingwall lying on the Eaſt of the Main to the North of Dunroſsneſs, wherein are 4. Churches, Tingwall, Whiteneſs, Wiſedale and Lerwick, but the Miniſter uſeth not to Preach by turns at Lerwick, as he doth at his other 3. Churches, he not finding himſelf obliged ſo to do, it being but built [86] lately at the expence of the Inhabitants, however ſom [...] ⯑times he hath Sermon there, and Baptizeth the Children. Lerwick in this Pariſh is now become t [...] Principal Toun in the Countrey, lying on the Eaſt [...] the main at Braſsa Sound, over againſt the Iſle [...] Braſſe.

Town of Lerwick. Lerwick is more then half a Mile in length, lyin [...] South and North upon the ſide of the Sound, and w [...] conſiſt of between 2. and 300. Families, it is but withi [...] theſe few Years, that it hath arrived to ſuch a numbe [...] of Houſes and Inhabitants. It is become ſo conſider⯑able, becauſe of the many Ships which do Yearly fre⯑quent the Sound, whereby Merchants and Tradeſ-Me [...] are encouraged to come and dwell in this place, an [...] not for the pleaſantneſs of its Situation, or the fertilit [...] of the Countrey about, for it is built upon a Rock [...] peice of Ground, wherein they can have no ſtreet, bu [...] a kind of a narrow paſſage before their doors, betwix [...] them and the Sound, which in ſome places will not ad⯑mit of two Mens going in a breaſt, and at the back o [...] the Toun there is a Hill of black Moſs, wherein they caſt their Pites, which in ſome places cometh to their very doors, and no Corn-Land is there about it, ſave a little within the Caſtle, for near a Mile of way.

Many of their Houſes, are very Commodious to dwell in, moſt of them being two ſtories high, and well furniſhed within, their Inhabitants conſiſt of Merchants Tradeſ-Men, and Fiſhers, who keep up a good Trade with Foreigners, from whom they buy much of their domeſtick proviſion, ſome of them are Perſons of a Conſiderable Stock, which they have many ways to improve for their advantage. They are very Civil and kind, of an obliging temper, which we had the Experience of, during our abode among them; there are but few begging poor to be ſeen here, or in any place of the Countrey, where we had occaſion to be; there being a great ſtore of ſmall Fiſhes, for the ſupply of their neceſſity.

[87]They have upon their own Charges Built a conve⯑nient Church, at the back of the middle of the Town,A Church built in Lerwick, but no Mi⯑niſtr ſettl⯑ed there. [...]nd furniſhed it with good Seats high and low, they [...]re at preſent a part of the Pariſh of Tingwal, but very [...]eſireous to be disjoined, and erected into a Pariſh by themſelves, that ſo they may enjoy a Miniſter of their own: For the promoting of which good Work, they are moſt willing according to their Ability to Contri⯑ [...]ute for the ſettling of a Fond for a Stipend to a Mi⯑niſter, but not being in a Capacity to give all, they [...]eſolved to make Application to the Government, for to have ſome Allowance out of the Revenues of the Biſhoprick of Orkney, or otherwiſe as the Wiſdom of the Government ſhould ſee meet, that ſo there may be a Competency made up.

Upon their application to us,Fit this Town be Erected into a Pa⯑rish. we judgeing it moſt convenient, yea neceſſary, that this Town with ſome of the adjacent Countrey, ſhould be Erected in⯑to a Paroch, cheriſhed this their pious deſign; Telling them, that we intended, to recommend it, to the Commiſſion of the General Aſſembly: That they may interpoſe, with the Lords, and other Honour⯑able Members of the reſpective Judicatories, before whom this affair ſhall come, for the better effectuat⯑ing the ſame. For the Town it ſelf is conſiderable, and the principal one in the Countrey, much fre⯑quented by the Gentry; As alſo, by Strangers, in the Summer time. And their Miniſter Preaching ſeldom here, they are ordinarly deſtitute of Goſpel-Ordi⯑nances; The People ſcarce being able, in the Sum⯑mer ſeaſon, and all moſt impoſſible for them in the Winter, to travel to the next Church, where their Miniſter Preacheth: It being about 4 Miles diſtance from them, of exceeding bad way. As we knew, when we did perambulate the bounds. Which want of Ordinances, maketh their Caſe very ſad and deplo⯑rable; It nurſeth ignorance; Occaſioneth much Sin, eſpecially horrid prophanation of the Lords-Day, by [88] ſtrangers, as well as by inhabitants: And doth effect [...] ⯑ally obſtruct the converſion of Souls; Preaching of t [...] Word being a ſpecial mean of convincing and co [...] ⯑verting Sinners and building them up in Holine [...] and comfort through Faith, unto Salvation.

Citidale of LerwickAt the North end of the Town, is the Caſtle or Ci [...] ⯑del, of Lerwick, begun to be built in the time, of t [...] Dutch War Anno 1665. By Work-men ſent by Autho [...] from Scotland, for that end, but the Work was new perfected, the Work men, returning home, Anno, 1667. that time alſo 300 Souldiers were ſent over fort [...] Defence of the Countrey, againſt the hoſtile Incu [...] ⯑ons of the Hollanders, and were quartered in pla [...] nigh to the Fort, who likewiſe returned home a [...] out the ſame time, with the Wo [...]kmen: The Gar [...] ⯑ſon could do much to command the Sound (for th [...] there was no Town here) ſo that none durſt La [...] nigh unto them; The walls are yet in a good con [...] ⯑tion, high in ſome places without, but filled up wi [...] Earth within, whereon they raiſed their Cannon; the weakeſt part of the Wall towards the North, the hath been a Sally-port, dangerous to Attack, by reaſ [...] of a deep Ditch before it, fed by a Spring, into whi [...] the Gariſon by cunning Artifices might endeavour draw the Enemy, who by the Stratagems of War th [...] being brought on, and enſnared, did incontinent ſink down into the Sound below them at the foot the Hill, whereupon the Caſtle is ſituated: With the Walls is a Houſe of Guard, which hath been t [...] Stories high, burnt by the Dutch, after that o [...] Souldiers had left the Fort. Upon the Walls towar [...] the Sound, are ſtanding 3 Iron Cannons one a 6. an [...] ⯑ther a 7. and a 3d. a 10 Pounder, not left by the [...] who kept Garriſon, but ſince that time within the 30 Years taken out of the Sea nigh to Wnalſey, a Sh [...] of Force there being caſt away, about 80. Years be⯑fore: Which Guns the Inhabitants of Lerwick late mounted upon the Walls of the Caſtle, whereby the [89] might be in a Capacity to Defend themſelves againſt the [...]th Privateers, who at any time ſhould come up the [...]nd and Aſſault them.

Between Lerwick and the Iſle of Braſſ [...] on the Eaſt with a pleaſant Bay or Sound,Braſſa-Sound. commonly called Braſſa Sound, Famous for [...]s being ſo ſafe a Road for Ships Anchor and Ride in, and that in the greateſt Storm, [...]ng encloſed with Land on every ſide, except the [...]try thereunto from the South, which is half a Mile [...]ad, but within the Sound as at Lerwick its a Mile, hath another narrow paſſage at the North end of [...] but dangerous to go out or in at, becauſe of ſome [...]nd Rocks therein. This Sound is the ordinary place which the Holland Buſhes do reſort in time of [...]ring Fiſhing, who before they put out their Nets, which muſt not be, according to a Law they have among themſelves, before the 24th. June,) uſe to come [...]re and put themſelves Ships, and Nets in order, [...]d the time by them appointed being come, they all [...] to Sea together Fiſhing near to this Land: Some⯑ [...]es there have been ſeen in the Sound 2000. or 2200. [...]d at once, and every Year ſome Hundreds as 5. 6. 700. Yea ſometimes ſo thick do the Ships [...]y in [...] Sound, that they ſay Men might go from one ſide [...] the Sound to the other, ſtepping from Ship to Ship; [...]d during their Fiſhing they will come in to the [...]nd for freſh Water, or other neceſſary Proviſion, and return to Sea again.

To this Pariſh of Tingwal alſo belongeth Scalloway, Scalloway. [...]ng on the Weſt ſide of the Mainland, 4. Miles, which is the breadth of the Country in that place, [...]m Lerwick. It was formerly the cheif Town in the country, and the Seat of the Presbytry, enjoying by [...]r a pleaſ [...]nter ſituation then Lerwick about which is good Graſs and Corn and ſome Meadow, betwixt which and the Church of Tingwal, is the Strath of Ting⯑wal, two Miles of hard even and pleaſant way; They [...]y about Scalloway is as pleaſant a ſpot as is in all this [90] Country. In all the Town there will be ſcarce 8 [...] or 100 Perſons, there not being ſuch Encourageme [...] by Trade to live here, as at Lerwick.

At the Eaſt or South Eaſt end of the Town ſtan [...] the Castle of Scalloway built An. 1600.Caſtle of Scalloway. By Patrick E [...] of Orkney Son to Robert Stewart alſo Earl of Orkney, w [...] built the Palace of B [...]ſa formerly mentioned: Abo [...] the Gates as we enter into the Houſe, there is this I [...] ⯑ſcription, Patricius Orcha [...]ia & Zetlandiae Comes, a [...] below the Inſcription this Diſtich, Cujus fundamen ſax [...] eſt, domus illa manebit; Lab [...]is e contra, ſi ſit arena, pe [...] That Houſe wh [...]ſe Foundation is on a Rock ſhall ſtan [...] But if on the Sand it ſhall fall. The reaſon of the I [...] ⯑ſcription is reported to be this, The Earl great Oppreſſed both Orkney and Zetland; and particular at the building of this Houſe, his hand lay very hea [...] on the poor People, by cauſing them in great numbe [...] to be imployed about the Building, which could not b [...] divert them from their ordinary Work as Fiſhing & [...] whereby they provided Suſtinance for themſelves 21 Families After this, one Mr. Pitcawn Minister North-Mevan, ſaid to be a Godly and Zealous Ma [...] coming to pay his Reſpects to the Earl, the Earl d [...] ⯑ſired him to Compoſe a Verſe, which he might p [...] upon the Frontiſ peice of his Houſe; from this the M [...] ⯑niſter took occaſion to lay before the Earl his great S [...] of Oppreſſion, upon which the Earls anger was ince [...] ⯑ſed, and in his Rage he threatned him with Impriſo [...] ⯑ment. However the Earl afterwards coming to ſo [...] Compoſure of Spirit; Mr. Pitcawn ſaid unto hi [...] well if you will have a Verſe, I ſhall give you o [...] from expreſs words of Holy Scripture Luke 6. whi [...] Verſe the Earl being pleaſed with, cauſed Inſcribe on the Lintle above the Gate, with Luke 6. added the Verſe, The Miniſter thereby inſinuating that t [...] Houſe could not ſtand long, having ſuch a San [...] Foundation as Oppreſſion. As indeed neither did it, [...] [91] ſhortly after the Earl being Beheaded, the Houſe was [...]t taken care of, and is now become ruinous.

And herein the Wiſe Providence of God may be ob⯑ [...]rved,Obſerve thereupon. that as the Inſcription on the Gate of the [...]ace of Birſa in Orkn [...]y did hold forth the Ambition of [...]e Father, ſo this Inſcription on the Gate of the [...]e of Scalloway in Zetland, did ſhew the Oppreſſion of [...] Son; and tho it be many Years ſince the death of [...]m both, yet the very Houſes built by them, to take their Honour and Grandour to appear, do yet and to their Diſhonour and Infamy, and in a manner [...] bear Witneſs againſt them: So truly verified in [...]em, is that Scripture.Pſal. 49.11. & 20. Pſal. 112.6. Pro. 10.7. That tho the inward thoughts of [...]a [...] [...] be that their houſes ſhall continue for ever, and [...]r dwelling places to all generations; Nevertheleſs they [...]to, in honour and not understandin [...], are like the beaſts [...]at p [...]iſh. And the Right [...]ous ſhall be in everlaſting [...]memberance: But the Name of the wicked ſhall rot

This Houſe or Caſtle is 3 Stories high beſide Kitch⯑ [...]nes, and Wa [...]drobe,A Deſcrip⯑tion there⯑of. and hath in it many excellent Cham⯑ [...]ers, and other Apartments with their ſeveral Conve⯑ [...]iences; Alſo there hath been much good painting, [...]ome of which is yet to be ſeen, tho much defaced; [...]e Chambers are high between floors, but eſpecially [...]e Gallery or Dining Room: In the Kitchin there [...] a Well in the ſide of the Wall, the water whereof is [...]ery good tho little uſed: The Sclaits have for the [...]oſt part fallen from the Roof, and are daily falling [...]ith every Storm, ſo that the Timber, much of which [...] yet very good and freſh is beginning to rot and con⯑ [...]me, by the rain falling through the houſe from [...]oor to floor. The ſtone Walls are yet in a good Condition, they being conſiderable thick; In the build⯑ [...]g are many free-ſtones as Lintels, Jams &c. which [...]hey ſay were brought from Scotland. I give a more [...]articular account of this Houſe, becauſe Built in this Country, and to ſhew how Tranſient, Paſſing and Periſhing, the Glory and Riches of the World are In [92] this Caſtle of Scalloway ſome Engliſh Souldiers for ſo [...] time kept Garriſon, when their Army was in S [...] ⯑land.

The Church of Wiſdale, which belongeth to t [...] Pariſh is much frequented by the Superſtitious Coun [...] People,Church of Wiſdale. who light Candles therein, drop Money in a [...] about it, go on their bare knees round it, and to wh [...] in their Straits and Sickneſs they have their Rec [...]u [...] yea ſome are ſo ſilly as to think, that if they be in a diſtreſs, tho not at this Church, yet if they turn t [...] faces to it, God will hear them. One of the Juſti [...] told us, that tho they have laid out themſelves to [...] theſe Superſtitious Conceits Eradicated yet they c [...] ⯑not get it altogether effectuated, but ſtill they contin [...] among the People. A Miniſter alſo told me, that was much frequented by Women, who when th [...] deſire to Marry, went to this Church making th [...] Vowes and ſaying their Prayers there, ſo aſſuri [...] themſelves, that God would cauſe Men come in [...] of them; But this is not now ſo much in uſe as fo [...] ⯑merly

Iſle of Trouar.Before Scalloway lyeth a little Iſle called Trou [...] two or three Miles long, wherein are a few F [...] ⯑milies.

Parish of Neſton.The third Pariſh is Neston to the Eaſt of the Main, which belongs 4 Churches, two on the Main, a [...] ⯑other two in Iſles; in Neſton is good Harbouring a [...] many Grey Fiſhes.

Iſle of Whalſey.To the N. Eaſt lyes the Iſle of Whalſey, wherein a Church, it is about three Miles long, and as ma [...] broad. Here are great Rats and very numero [...] which do infeſt the Iſle, deſtroying their Corns a [...] other Goods.

The Sker⯑ries.From Whalſey to the Eaſt lies the Skerries, ſeve [...] broken Iſles, wherein is a Church, here are two go [...] Harbours, but dangerous to enter, by reaſon of Roc [...] that ly before them, but when in, Ships will ri [...] very ſafely: There are no Pites in them, but ma [...] [93] [...]hips being caſt away upon them, the Inhabitants [...]ake uſe of the Wrack for Burn-wood, and alſo bring [...]me Pites from Whalſey. Here was caſt away that [...]eat and Rich Ship, called the Ca [...]melan of Amsterdam [...]n. 1664. when the War was between us and the [...]ollanders, computed to the value of 3000000. of [...]ders, wherein were ſome Che [...]s of Coined Gold (of [...]hich more above in our Deſcription of Orkney) and one of the Men as they report, were ſaved but 4 who [...]ere on the Top maſt, diſcovering the Land; But [...]fore they could give timeous advertiſement to the Captain, the Ship ſtruck on a Rock, and the Maſt [...]reaking by the Deck, the Top thereof fell on one of [...]he skerries, and ſo theſe 4 Men periſhed not with [...]he reſt of their Company; They ſay for 20 days after [...]he Inhabitants of the Skerries drank liberally of the [...]ong Liquors driven on ſhore in Casks. It is ſaid [...]his Ship to Richly Laden was bound for the Eaſt- [...]ndies.

In the way from Braſſa Sound to Neſton, lyes the [...]lind Rock called the Ʋnicorn, The Rock called the Unicorn. the Top whereof is ſeen at a low Ebb, upon which the Ship called the Ʋnicorn was caſt away, wherein was William Kinca [...]dy of Grange, who purſuing the Earl of Bothwel, followed him ſo [...]oſe, that they were within Gun ſhot of one another, [...]ut Bothwel coming firſt through Braſſa Sound got in [...] Pilot, which [...]range neglecting to do, they both Sailed through the Northern paſſage of Braſsa Sound; [...]nd Bothwels Pilot having a great Reward promiſed him, if they ſhould eſcape, [...]an down by the ſide of [...]his Rock upon which the Ʋnicorn did ſpl [...]et, and ſo [...]othwel got free of the danger he was in, by this [...]ot purſuit. It is moſt dangerous Sailing among theſe Iſles without a Pilot.

The 4th Pariſh is Delton on the Main,Parish of Delton. wherein are [...]wo Churches, it lyeth North Eaſt and South Eaſt; Here are many Grey Fiſhes taken, whereas in the Nor⯑thern [94] Iſles of Ʋnſt and Yell they lay out themſelves m [...] for the taking of White Fiſh as Killing Ling, &c.

Iſles of Fishholm, Mikle Rue and little Rue. The parish of Sanſting and Eſting.On the Eaſt lyes Fiſholm, to the North-Eaſt L [...] Rue, and on the Weſt Meikle Rue, 8 Miles long, a [...] two Miles broad, wherein a good Harbour. All th [...] Iſles have their own advantages.

The 5th is Sanſting and Eſting lying on the Main [...] ⯑tween Delton and Wars wherein are two Kirks, one Sanſting, and another in Eſting. The way in t [...] Pariſh is very bad, and the People are ſaid to be [...] ⯑mong the pooreſt and naughtieſt in all the Countre [...] Here is good paſture for Sheep, and the beſt Wo [...] As alſo the beſt Shelties.

The Iſles of Vemantrie Oxney &c.Nigh to Sanſting and Eſting ly ſeveral ſmal pleaſ [...] Iſles, as Ʋemantrie a pleaſant Iſle full of Harbou [...] Oxney, Papa little, Hileſha &c.

Paroch of Waes. Iſle of Vatla.The 6th is Waes on the Main to the Weſt, to it [...] ⯑longes 4 Churches, one in Waes, another in Sandra the 3d in the Iſle of Papa-ſtour, and the 4th in t [...] Iſle of Fowla. To the South of Waes lyeth the Iſle Vatla, wherein a Cat will not live, of which more af [...] ⯑wardes.

The Iſle of Papa StourThe Iſle of Papa-ſtour is ſaid to be the pleaſant little Iſle in all this Countrey, two Miles long, a well furniſhed with Fewel, Graſs, Corn, Rabbets, & In it are 4 good Harbours, one to the South, two [...] the North, and one to the Weſt, nigh to this Iſle ly [...] the Lyra-Skerries, ſo called, becauſe the Lyres (th [...] Fat Fowls, ſpoken of in our Diſcription of Orkney,) [...] frequent this Skerrie.

Iſle of Fou⯑la. Foula lyes about 18 Miles Weſt from the Main, is about 3 Miles long, wherein a high Rock ſeen a great diſtance, I have heard ſome ſay, that in a cal [...] and clear Day, they will ſee it from Orkney: The is only one place in it for Harbouring, which if you [...] not hit, you will be driven to the Sea, what by Wi [...] and Tide. Their Cornland is all in one end of it; A [...] the Inhabitants live moſt by Fowls and Eggs, which a [...] [95] [...]y numerous, and they are the beſt Climbers of [...]ks in all the Countrey.

The 7th is North-Mevan on the Main lying to the [...]th, wherein are three Kirks, Hilſwick, Parish of North Me⯑van. Oloberry and [...]th-Rhac, they Report, the People of this Pariſh be diſcreet and ſcivilized, beyond their Neighbour⯑ [...] Pariſhes; Which, under God, is owing, to the [...]ours of Mr. Hercules Sinclair, ſometime Miniſter [...]re, reputed to be Zealous and faithful: He, in his [...]al, againſt ſuperſtition, raſed Croſs-Kirk, in this [...]ſh; Becauſe the People ſuperſtitiouſly frequented [...] And, when demoliſhed, behind the place where [...] Altar ſtood, and alſo beneath the Pulpit, were [...]nd ſeveral peices of Silver in various ſhapes, brought [...]ther as offerings by afflicted People, ſome being in [...] form of a Head, others of an Arm, others of a [...]ot, accordingly as the offerers were diſtreſſed in theſe [...]ts of the Body; As a Freind of his a preſent Miniſter [...]the Countrey, did inform me. O that the pains [...]d expence theſe ſuperſtitious Souls have been at, [...]ght excite, us the more dutifully to ſerve and Wor⯑ [...]p our God in Spirit and in Truth. There are alſo [...]ny mo People in this Pariſh, who can Write and [...]ad, and give a tolerable account of their profici⯑ [...]cy in the knowledge of the principles of Religion, then [...]re are in others.

Before it lyes Lamma a ſmall pleaſant Iſle;The Iſle of Lamma. As alſo [...]other to the Weſt-North Weſt.

The 8th is Braſſa an Iſle to the Eaſt of Tingmal and [...]rwick to which three Churches do belong,Parish of Braſsa, and Burra. Iſles of Braſsa and the Noſs. two in [...]aſſa, but only in one of them they uſe to attend Ordi⯑ [...]nces, the other being built nigh to the Manſe, for [...]eir late old Miniſters Accommodation. Braſſa is a⯑ [...]out 5 Miles long and two broad, all covered with [...]eather, except ſome Cornland by the Coaſts; Before [...]raſſa to the Eaſt, lyes the Noſs of Braſsa, a ſmall Iſle [...]herein is one Family, it hath a high Rock lying open [...] the Eaſt Sea, and ſeen by Mariners at a diſtance.

[96] Iſle of Burra.The Miniſter of Braſſa alſo hath a Church in the [...] of Burra, which he goeth to every 2d Sabbath, it [...] ⯑eth nigh to the Mainland Weſt South-Weſt from S [...] ⯑loway, ſo that the Miniſter is obliged to travel fro [...] the Eaſt to the Weſt ſide of the Mainland, when [...] goeth to this his Church. The Iſle will be three Mi [...] long divided in the midle into two ſmall Iſles,Iſle of Ha⯑veroy. by a Se [...] ⯑break. The Church is very large and hath a hi [...] Steeple in it. To the South-South Eaſt of Burra ly [...] Haveroy a Mile and an half long. Both in Burra a [...] Haveroy is good Paſture, and about them good Fiſhing

The 9th is Yell, an Iſle North-Eaſt and by the Eaſt from the Main 16 Miles long,Parish of Yell. and as to breadth, [...] is much like the figure 8 becauſe of the many Cree [...] and Voes which divide and cut the Land,Iſles of Yell Haskashie Samphrey, B [...]ggai yet [...] ſome places it is 6 or 8 Miles broad. In it are [...] Churches and many old little Chappels, it is more Moſſ [...] then ſome other Iſles, tho there be in it ſome good P [...] ⯑ſturage and Cornland; To the Eaſt of Yell lyes Harkaſ [...] 2 Miles long, to the South Weſt Samphrey, one Mi [...] long, to the Weſt South-Weſt B [...]gga [...], a Mile and a [...] hal [...] long, all pleaſant, and well graſſed, having muc [...] Fewel, and eſpecially excellent for Fiſhing, for if the Win [...] blow from the Weſt, the Boats can ly on the Eaſt if from the Eaſt, they can ly on the Weſt ſide of the [...] Iſles and that nigh to the Shore.

Iſle of FetlorTo the E. N. Eaſt of Yell lyes Fetlor, 5 Miles long and 4 broad, in it ſome Chappels and Picts Houſes, [...] there are likewiſe in ſeveral other of the Iſles; In th [...] Iſle there is a Church, wherein the Miniſter of Yell preacheth every 4th. Sabbath, it uſed formerly to ha [...] been ſerved by a Preaching Deacon but the Vicar by h [...] Diligence hath got the Miniſter of Yell alſo obliged [...] ſerve in Fetlor, tho Yell be more than ſufficient for a [...] one Man to have the charge of.

Parish of Unst.The 10th. Pariſh is Ʋnst, 8 Miles long, and 4 Mil [...] broad in many places, in it 3 Churches, it is ſaid to [...] the largeſt pleaſant Iſle in all this Country, In it a [...] 3 Harbours, Uzia Sound, Balta Sound, and Burra Fir [...] [97] [...]re ſome good Corn-land and Paſturage, alſo ſeveral [...] Chappels (of which more afterwards) A little Iſle [...]led Uz [...]a lyeth off Unſt a Mile and an half long, as [...]ewiſe ſeveral pleaſant Holms.Iſles of Unst and Uzia. Unst is the moſt Nor⯑ [...]n Iſle in the King of Britains Dominions, under the [...] degree of latitude.

Thus I have given ſome account of the ſeveral Pa⯑ [...]hes within the bounds of the Iſles and Countrey of [...]land, and hinted at, if not all,Principal Iſles. yet the greateſt part [...] the Iſles, the Principal whereof are Unst, Yell, Fetlor, [...]ſsa and Burra.

Whence we ſee there is no Miniſter here, but hath [...]leaſt 2 Churches,Miniſters expoſed to much trouble and dan⯑ger. wherein he diſpenſeth Goſpel [...]dinances, and ſome of them have 3, and others 4, [...]me of which Churches are at a great diſtance from [...]e another, to travel to which is not only toilſome and [...]ngerous to the Reſpective Miniſters, they alſo not [...]ving little Manſes or Houſes for their Accomodation, [...]en they come to many of them; tho often when [...]rms do ariſe, they will be detained in the Iſles, for [...]e time until they leſſen: Not only I ſay, is this [...]ubleſome to the Miniſters, but highly prejudicial to [...] People, among whom the Work of the Goſpel is [...]atly thereby retarded (as we had occaſion likewiſe [...]ote concerning Orkney) few of the People uſing to [...]air to other Churches, when there is not publick [...]orſhip at their own, which at moſt will be but one of [...] Sabbaths, and in many places but one in three or [...]r, and in ſome not to be had for ſome Moneths, [...]ich as undoubtedly it occaſioneth great Ignorance; many groſs Scandals, as Adulteries, Fornications &c, [...]e Faithful preaching of the Goſpel doing much if [...] to convince and convert, yet to moraliſe a People [...] put a reſtraint to theſe horrid Enormities.

And tho the difficulty would not be ſmall,There could be ſome moe Parishes here. if at all could be got done to have Miniſters conſtantly to [...]ach in the ſeveral Chuches, even in the moſt conſi⯑ [...]able Iſles, yet there might be ſome moe Miniſters [98] here than there are, 4 or 5 at leaſt to whom the Tith [...] if rightly imployed could afford a ſufficient maintai [...] ⯑ance; As one Miniſter more in the pariſh of Dunroſſne [...] on the main, and another in the Iſle of Yell &c, whi [...] Charges at preſent are very great, and cannot well [...] ſerved by the Miniſters they have. The Tithes a [...] farmed to Viccars, a kind of inferiour Tackſ-men, w [...] in ſome places do not only oppreſs the People, but a [...] uneaſie to the Miniſters, not paying them what th [...] are obliged to pay, till they pleaſe, which often th [...] will not do for ſome years. The Miniſters ſufferi [...] by this piece of Injuſtice, laid it before the Commiſſion, one of their Greivances, which they craved might [...] redreſſed, and for that end, Application might be ma [...] to the Government,

CHAP. VIII. An account of the Ancient Monuments, Curi [...] ⯑ſities, ſtrange Providences, &c. moſt obſer [...] ⯑able in the Iſles of Zetland.

THE Works of Creation and Providence are all [...] ⯑ry wonderful,Obſerv⯑able things in Zetland. ſought out of them who have pl [...] ⯑ſure therein, among which ſome more ordinarly oc [...] and are the ſubject of our meditation, and others no [...] commonly preſenting themſelves are the more ſurpriſi [...] and amuſing, both which are to be had a due rega [...] unto, they being either mediatly or immediatly, by without 2d. Cauſes, the Work of the Lord, and Operation of his Hands: And ſeing there are ſ [...] things that deſerve their own obſervation, which eit [...] I had occaſion to ſee, or to hear of in Zetland, I [...] give a brief Relation thereof, not denying but t [...] there may be other things no leſs if not more obſerva [...] there, which we came not to the knowledge of.

[99]The Picts Houſes which are frequent through this [...]ountrey,Concern⯑ing the Picts Hou⯑ſes. the Inhabitants take much notice of, as be⯑ [...]g the Ancienteſt Monuments they have, ſome of which [...]e more, others leſs ruinous, they are round in the [...]m of ſome Dove-coats, or ſomething like un⯑ [...] an Egg bulging out in the middle, but narrower at [...]e bottom, and yet more narrow at the top, They [...]ave a little door for an entry, at which a man of an [...]rdinary ſtature could not enter without bowing, with⯑ [...] which door, there is a Stair going up between two [...]one Walls, leading to the ſeveral Apartments, inſtead [...] Windows they have Slits or long narrow Holes in [...]e Wall, ſuch as are in many of our old Caſtles for the [...]onveyance of light unto them; they are ſtrongly built, [...]t the conveniency for dwelling hath been but little, [...]or their Diameter is but about 10 or 12 Foot, and their [...]eight ſcarce 20 or 24, I think theſe Picts Houſes are much like Arthurs Oven upon the Water of Carron in [...]rling-Shire.

Theſe have been the Domiciles or Dwellings of the [...]icts,Obſerve thereupon the old if not the firſt Inhabitants of this Coun⯑ [...]ey, who were very numerous in the North of Scotland, [...]ed in Orkney, having their own Kings, as hath been [...]id in our Deſcription of Orkney. They are convenient⯑ [...]y ſituated through the Iſles, each one being within the [...]ight of another, hence in a few hours, advertiſement could [...]e given by Fire, or other ſigns they might condeſcend upon, through the whole Countrey, ſignifying unto them any danger, that being thereby alarmed, they might meet together, or be upon their own defence. Theſe Houſes are alſo called Burgh [...], which in the old T [...]utonick or Saxon Language,Rich: Ver⯑stegan in his Anti⯑quities of the English Nation and their Saxon Kings. ſignifyeth a Town having a Wall or ſome kind of an Encloſure about it; as alſo a Caſtle, for as one obſerveth in his Dictionary, or Explanation of our most ancient Engliſh words; All places that in old time had among our Anceſtours the name of Bur⯑rough, Bury or Burug were places one way or other fenced and fortifyed. Whence it appears, that theſe Houſes [100] have been Caſtles, or places of Defence, to the Pic [...] Seing it is generally acknowledged, that both the Pic [...] and the Saxons, were originally deſcended, of the ſa [...] German Nation: and ſo might call their Caſtles by t [...] ſame name. I have alſo heard it obſerved, That in Orkn [...] ſeveral places, wherein they uſed of old to bury th [...] Dead were called Burghs, ſo likewiſe theſe Houſes [...] Zetland might ſerve for the ſame purpoſe, from the Sax [...] Word Byring, or Buriging, or Borogeing, which we n [...] call Burying.

No place called Thule hereI enquired if there was any Place or Hill here, whi [...] they called Thule or Ʋle, if ſo be we could receive a [...] Information or Light from them concerning the Th [...] of the Ancients, but they anſwered they knew none [...] that name, only there was an Iſle, wherein a high [...] called Foula, on the weſt ſide of the Mainland, but ſuppoſe that ever the Ancient Romans underſtood Th [...] thereby, beſide other things that might be alledged, [...] would be a manifeſt ſtreatching of, and an offering vi [...] ⯑lence to the word: But altho what this place is, ha [...] been much controverted, by Ancient and Modern A [...] ⯑thors attempting the Diſcovery thereof, yet it is gen [...] ⯑rally agreed upon, that it is toward the North, a [...] many take it to be one of the Britiſh Iſles, and a late A [...] ⯑thor in an Eſſay concerning the Thule of the Ancients, e [...] ⯑deavoureth to prove it to be the North Eaſt part of Br [...] ⯑tain, Conr. Cel. Itinere [...]aith. lying over againſt the Iſles of Orkney, citing ſom [...] Authors to this purpoſe, as ‘Conradus Celtes. Orc [...] ⯑dibus qua cincta ſuis Tyle & Glacialis Inſula & Clau⯑dian, Maduerunt ſanguine fuſo Orcades incalu [...] [...]ictorum ſanguine Thule; Scotorum cumulos flev [...] glacialis lerne.’ And others who call Thule, Britann carum Inſularum ſeptentriona [...]ſſimam, the moſt Norther [...] of the Britiſh Iſles. Iſland alſo lays claim to it, and t [...] above cited Author ſuppoſeth Iſland to be the Thule, b [...] I judge without any ſhaddow of Truth, for beſide wh [...] is now ſaid,Rich. Ver⯑ſtegan. I greatly doubt if ever the Romans had th [...] knowledge of Iſland, their Eagles never having com [...] [101] and been diſplayed to the North of Scotland, or Orkney, [...]peru fuerat Romani Scotia limes. Saith the great Sca⯑ [...]er. Ptolomey will have it to be among the Iſles of [...]tland, and Boeth. our Hiſtorian diſtinguiſheth be⯑ [...]ween a 1ſt and a 2d Thule calling Ila the 1ſt and Leuiſa [...]e 2d, which are reckoned among the Iſles called He⯑ [...]des: So ſaith Boeth. "Ptolomaeus inter Schethlandi⯑ [...]s inſulas quae ultra Orchades ſunt,Hec. Boeth Hist. aut proxime Norvegiam ſitam vult, haud quaquam propter immen⯑ [...]m intercapedinem intelligi poteſt. Nos autem Ilam primam Leuiſam Hebridum praeſtantiſſimam ſecundam Thulen vo amus. But I incline to think, that altho ſome [...]ight deſign a particular place by the Thule, yet gene⯑ [...]lly by a Synecdoche uſual with the Roman Authors, [...]ey might denote all theſe places remote from them [...] the North, and eſpecially Britain, and the Nothern [...]arts thereof, whether their Arms did come.

In the Pariſh of North-Mevan is Mons Ronaldi or [...]ons Hill, the higheſt in all this Country,Mons Ro⯑nalds or Rons Hill the high⯑eſt in the Countrey. from which [...]ome do ſay, they will ſee the Body of the Sun all the [...]ight over in the Moneth of June; which cannot be [...]s the Reaſon alledged in our Deſcription of Orkney why [...] could not be ſeen from the top of the Hill of Hoy; [...]o Reaſon and Experience ſhew they have a clearer [...]ight in Zetland, in the Night time, dureing the Sum⯑ [...]r Seaſon, then they can have in Orkney; Zetland be⯑ [...]ng more then a degree to the North of Orkney and con⯑ [...]equently ay the farther North, the ſhorter Night, till [...]t length there be no Night at all, ſo that if it were [...]oſſible to ſail holding a Northern Courſe, till we were [...]nder the Pole, having it for our Zenith or Vertical Point, we would have a continual Day without any Night for ſeveral Moneths, the Sun all that time de⯑ [...]cribing a Circle almoſt parallel to our Horizon, I ſay, [...]lmoſt parallel, becauſe beſide the Diurnal, there is al⯑ [...]o the Annual Motion of the Sun in the Eclyptick. O now exact and beautiful an order and ſymmetrie is to [102] be ſeen in the Works of God; they all ſpeaking for the goodneſs, Wiſdom and Power of their Maker.

What a wonderful Creature is the Sun, Coming fo [...] as a Bridegroom out of his Chamber, A Refle⯑ction thereupon and rejoiceing as a ſtr [...] Man to run his Race, abſolving every day his circ [...] round our Terreſtrial Globe, from Eaſt to Weſt, a [...] travelling every year between his Tropicks (the Lim [...] and Boundaries preſcribed him of God beyond whi [...] he is not to paſs) from South to North and from No [...] to South, giving ſhorter days to thoſe, who inhab [...] the midle of the Earth, under the Torrid Zone, [...]th [...] not being able to bear his longer continuance abo [...] their Horizon; becauſe of his ſcorching heat, [...] longer to theſe who can better endure it under [...] temperate, and yet longeſt to theſe who live near to the Frigid Zones or to the Poles, whom his h [...] cannot prejudge, as it doth theſe who live under or n [...] to the Line or midle of the Earth on whom he da⯑eth down his Perpendicular Rays, wherefore the W [...] ⯑dom of his Maker will have him to ſtay a ſhorter th [...] above their Horizon. How wonderful then in Cou [...] and excellent in working is this God, whereupon not only Saints do bleſs him for the benefites wherewith they are lo [...] ⯑en, but all his Works do praiſe him after their manner.

Caves.There are ſeveral Caves here or hollow places in a [...] through the Rocks; particularly there is one in the [...] of Ʋnſt, entering from the Sea at one ſide of the I [...] and oppoſite thereunto on the other ſide, there is a [...] ⯑ther going in, as it were meeting the former, unto [...] end of any of which, none will undertake to goe, t [...] it hath been attempted, the rage of the Sea in th [...] Caverns of the Earth, the failing of the Light of D [...] and the raggedneſs of the Rocks by which they m [...] paſs making it terrible unto them, as alſo the thick [...] of the Air, ſomething annoying them; but the Ent [...] thereunto being oppoſite one to another, giveth grou [...] to judge, that it is an continued cave from the one ſ [...] of the Iſle to the other, tho 4 Miles broad: which c [...] [103] [...]t be thought to be artificial but natural waſhen [...]rough by the violence of the Waves; and the leſs [...]onder it is for it ſo to be, if we conſider, that if [...]lla cavat lapidem, much more rapidi & tumidi fluctus [...]abunt, that if in a ſhort time the drop will wear the [...]one, much more in the Tract of ſome Thouſands of [...]ears the rageing and tempeſtuous Waves daily break⯑ [...]ng on the Rocks will produce this Effect, and that [...]ore in ſome places than in others, where the Rock will [...]e more friable and brittle, and the force of the Waves [...]eſs broken by the bounding and ſwadleing ſand.

There is ſomething like unto this yet more ſurpri⯑ [...]ing in the Iſle of Foula, A hole in Foula. on the Weſt ſide of the Main⯑ [...]and, if it be true what is ſtoried of it: In this Iſle on the top of a hill there is a hol the mouth whereof may. [...]e (and ſome ſay now is) covered with a Slait-ſtone going downwards to the bottom of the Rock, which is ſaid to be of a great depth, particularly a Dutch Ship- [...]aſter is reported to have made a trial thereof, for the gratifying his curioſity, by taking up a barrel of lines with him, which he let all down, and yet could not found the bottom: Some ſay he let down 2. barrels, which is very wonderful, conſidering a barrel of lines is reckoned to be ſeveral, ſome ſay 9. Miles of length: What can be the reaſon of ſuch a Conveyance from the top of the Rock to the bottom, and further if we may give credit to what is ſaid, I cannot poſſibly ima⯑gine, for that ſuch a thing ſhould be done by Art, we cannot well conceive the reaſon why, nor the Manner how it could be done, and that nature ſhould have ſuch an operation will be as difficult to unfold.

That this Countrey is generally Moſſy,Dange⯑rous Tra⯑veling. ſoft and spungey hath been formerlie told, as likewiſe that it is dangerous for people to travel through it; of which many Inſtances may be given, I ſhall only name two, which I had from the Miniſters of the reſpective bounds, one Traveling in the Iſle of Yell, fell unto ſuch a Moſsy and looſe piece of ground, his Horſe beneath him, Furniture [104] and all ſank doun, and was no more ſeen, and he him⯑ſelf with great difficulty ſtruggled out and was ſave [...] And another in the Pariſh of Tingwal on the Mai [...] not long ſince, walking on foot not far from his o [...] Houſe, fell into ſuch another place, wherein there d [...] not appear to be any hazard and over which ſeveral times for [...]erly he thought he had paſſed with ſafety and ſank doun to the arm pits, but he by ſtretching o [...] his Arms, keeping his head above the ſurface of t [...] ground, by the help of his ſervant then providential [...] with him and a ſtaff fixed in the ground, got wreſtl [...] out: So dangerous it is Traveling here even to the in⯑habitants.

Variation of the Compaſs remark⯑able as at Udſta.On the Weſt ſide of the Iſle of Fetlor, there is a plac [...] whereon a Gentlemans Houſe called Ʋdsta into whic [...] place or Houſe if a Mariners Needle and Compaſs b [...] brought, the Needle reſteth not in its Poles, as it doth i [...] other places, but hath a tremulous undulating motio [...] and ſometimes turneth round, as ſome ſay, to all th [...] points of the Horizon; And a Gentleman who was in⯑quiſitive to know the truth of this told me, that upo [...] trial he found it to be ſo, and further to try the expe⯑riment he took the Compaſs to the top of the Houſe where it had the ſame effect. And one of the Miniſter of the Northern Iſles informed me that if any Ship o [...] Boat Sailed by, or came nigh unto that place, the ſam [...] did befall their Compaſs.And on a Hill in Whalſey. Alſo there is a little Hill nig [...] to the Sea on the Weſt-ſide of the Iſle of Whalſey. t [...] which if the Compaſs be brought, the Flowr de Luce, o [...] that point, which is ordinarily obverted to the North turneth about to the South, but if the Compaſs be re⯑moved the diſtance of two of three foot from the top o [...] the Hill, there is no ſuch effect produced: This th [...] late Miniſter of the place aſſured me of, having trie [...] the experiment.

Obſerves thereupon.The many wonderful properties and effects of th [...] Magnes or Load-Stone, and of other things endue [...] with, or which do partake of this Magnetick vertue [...] [105] diſcovered in theſe latter Ages, hath deſervedly raiſed [...]e Admiration of Philoſophers, and awakened them to [...]ake a diligent enquirie and Search, into the reaſons of [...]heſe ſtrange Phenomena. That the Magnes hath two [...]oles anſwering to the Poles of the World, to which it [...]o [...]eth it ſelf; That the Load Stone draweth Iron unto [...] That Iron brought unto and rubbed upon the Load-Stone receiveth from it that Attractive, or as ſome will [...]ave it, that impulſive vertue and power, and other [...]alities inherent in it [hence the invention of the Needle, ſo uſeful and neceſſary to Mariners for directing their Courſes) That if there be two ſpherical Load- [...]tones, they will turn to one another, as each of them [...]oth to the [...]oles of the Earth, and if they be detained [...] a contrary poſition, they will flee from one another: [...]nd ſo is it with the needle in the compaſs, when a [...]oad Stone or piece of Iron is brought unto it, the [...]eedle either cometh to, or fleeth from it according to [...]s ſituation, wherefore Mariners are careful that no [...]on be in▪ nor lying near unto their Light-room where [...]e compaſs ſtandeth.Renat Des. Car⯑tes in his Princip. Philoſ. reckoneth 34. That tho you ſhould take the [...]eedle from its beloved Pole, yet when let alone and [...]ft to it ſelf, it will incontinently move and take no [...]ſt, until it return thereunto, Theſe ſtrange and un⯑ [...]uth Properties hath the Load Stone, as likewiſe [...]any others, no leſs aſtoniſhing, reckoned up by it's admirers; many of which are known to the rudeſt [...]d moſt illiterate Mariner, but to explain the nature of [...]e Load-Stone, and to reſolve and anſwer the Propo⯑ [...]ls of Nature upon the head, by giving the Reaſons of [...]eſe admirable effects, hoc opus, hic labor est, this is the difficulty, which hath vexed many, and taken up the ſtudies of the ſageſt and moſt ingenious Modern Philoſo⯑ [...]ers.

I ſhall not preſume to give the reaſon of this ſtrange [...]henomenon,An Eſſay concern⯑ing the Reaſon thereof. the Needles leaving it's reſt at the Pole [...]nd betaking it ſelf to ſuch a motion, whether tremu⯑ [...]us and undulating, or circular round the points of the [106] compaſs; or the Flower de Luce, turning to the So [...] Only I would ſuggeſt two things, which if they t [...] not to clear what is propoſed, they will furt [...] hold out how wonderful the Load-ſtone and Properties are. Firſt, upon the ordinary ſuppoſiti [...] whereby theſe Properties are explained, that the Ea [...] is as a great Load-ſtone, on the ſurface and exter [...] parts whereof a great number of volatile ſcrew-li [...] Particles, called the Magnetick matter, doe unceſſan [...] move, travelling from Pole to Pole alongſt the ſurfa [...] of the Earth, whereby the Poles of the Load-ſtone a [...] the point of the Needle affected with its vertue, a [...] obverted to the Poles of the World; Which ſuppoſiti [...] being made, we would know that this Ma [...] ⯑netick matter may not alwayes have the ſa [...] motion, but in ſome places it may be upward a [...] perpendicular to the ſurface of the Earth; ſo that theſe places where they thus move perpendicularly, t [...] Needle will not be determined to one point, more th [...] to another of the Horizon, this matter alike affecti [...] all the parts of the Needle, by its perpendicular motio [...] which the Ingenious Rohault alledgeth as the reaſon, w [...] the Compaſs ſerveth not the uſe of the Hollanders, wh [...] they have Sailed far to the North, in order to find o [...] a new and ſhorter paſſage to the Eaſt-Indies, th [...] Needle then not turning to the Poles as it doth in ot [...] places, but alike to all the points of the Horiz [...] the motion of the Magnetick matter in theſe more No [...] ⯑thern places, being in Lines perpendicular to the ſurfa [...] of the Earth: and ſo likewiſe it may fall out in ot [...] places, where a greater quantity of this Magneti [...] matter riſeth from the Earth.

A 2d. thing that I would take notice of, is that t [...] Magnetick matter in it's paſſage from Pole to P [...] meets with ſeveral Iron Mines, into which it go [...] aſide, ſo diverting its ſtraight Courſe between the Pol [...] becauſe it finds an eaſier paſſage through the Pores the Iron, then by paſſing through other places; he [...] [107] [...]e variation of the Compaſs is Judged to be, ſo much [...]kt of by Mariners, in ſome places greater, and in [...]hers leſs, accordingly as the Magnetick matter is [...]t or leſs determined by the ſeveral Iron Mines, into [...]hich it turneth aſide; Now in ſome places it may ſo [...]out, that there may be a greater quantity of Iron, [...]ough which the Magnetick matter paſſing and from [...]ich it ariſing, may cauſe ſuch a Motion, whereby [...] needle not only inclines not to one point more [...]n to another in the Horizon, but alſo by the Mag⯑ [...]ick matters aſcending from and returning to the Iron [...]nes, it may produce ſuch an irregular motion in [...]e needle: And that there is a great quantity of Iron Zetland, may be knoun by the remarkable variation the Compaſs there, for as Mariners inform us when [...]y Sail by the South-End of Zetland, they find the [...]ation to be but one point, but when paſſing the [...]orth end, they find it varies 2 points, and upon this [...]iation in directing their Courſe to this or the other [...]ce, they make their reckoning: Which is very ob⯑ [...]vable that in leſs then a degree of latitude (for no [...]e will the length of the Iſles of Zetland be) it va⯑ [...]a a point of the Compaſs, which muſt be, according the Reaſon commonly aſſigned, becauſe there is [...]th Iron in theſe Iſles, and more eſpecially on the [...]ſt ſide of the Iſle of Fetlor; for other places of the [...]e Iſle have no ſuch Influence on the Compaſs.

That yet much if not the greateſt part of the diffi⯑ [...]ty remains I readily grant,Some difficulty remains. and leaves it to the ſtudy [...]he learned and curious, and indeed in many things acknowledge our Ignorance hath been reputed no all part of Wisdom, ſo hard it is to ſolve and unridle [...]tures Secrets, wherein the greateſt Lights have [...]n benighted, the following often raſing the Foun⯑ [...]ions of the Doctrines of the Former: How won⯑ [...]ful are the Works of God, that in Wiſdom he hath [...]e them all, And how narrow and ſhallow are Capacities, that we cannot find out the Works of [108] God, even the moſt ſenſible and obvious; How tha [...] [...] ⯑ful alſo ſhould we be to God; who hath vouchſa [...] to us the Light of clearly revealed Truth▪ which taken heed unto ſhall make us perfect, and lead u [...] Glory.

Little Chappels.There are in theſe Iſles many little Chappels [...] generally ruinous, as in the Iſle of Ʋnst there are and upwards, In the Iſle of Yell there are 21. many in other Iſles, I ſaw one of them in the Pa [...] of Tingwal, wherein alſo there are ſeveral m [...]; would have contained ſcarce 30. People, as I ju [...] and tho ſo little, yet very great Stones were in Walls, which was ſtrange to me, how that in Countrey, where their Beaſts are weak, and they [...] not the help of Machines, they got them lifted laid. Theſe are ſaid to have been built by Superſ [...] ⯑ous Zealots in the times of [...]opery, or as ſome ra [...] think by Ship wrackt Seamen, who coming ſafe ſhore, have Built them according to their Vows m [...] by them when in danger, which they dedicated t [...] many ſeveral Saints, whom they looked upon as Patrons of their Reſpective Chappels. About w [...] alſo Men and Women of Old had their night walk [...] which occaſioned much uncleanneſs, but now [...] walkings are but little uſed.

Snails which are medicinal found about the walls.About the Walls of theſe old Chappels are fo [...] Snails, called Shell-Snails, which they dry and [...] ⯑verize, mingling the duſt with their drink for the Ja⯑dice, by which means theſe who labour under this ſ [...] ⯑neſs in 3. or 4. days time will recover of the ſa [...] but if they let this duſtly for a Year, without mak [...] uſe of it, it turneth into ſmall living Creatures or V [...] mine, which they dry and bray over again, if t [...] make any further uſe of it.

A mettal like Gold found in Ʋzta.In Ʋzta an Iſle lying nigh to Ʋnſt, there is a N [...] ⯑tal gotten having the colour of Gold, which ſev [...] of the Dutch Merchants have taken with them to H [...] ⯑burgh, and tried it there, but by the force of Fire it [109] not become Liquid, but crumbled into ſmall pieces; It is to be had there in great plenty. This ſheweth there may be Minerals in theſe Iſles, tho not known nor ſearched for.

In the Church-Yard of Papa-Stour, A grave-ſtone in Papa-Stour. in the Pariſh of Waes lyeth a Stone 5 foot long, at the one end two, and at the other one foot broad, concave from the one end to the other, of which the common Tradition goes, that this ſtone came a ſhore on that [...]ſle with a dead Man tied to it, who lys buried there beſide it. It ap⯑pears to have been the Grave ſtone of ſome Perſon of Note in the Country, which ſheweth they have alſo had that Cuſtom, of laying at leaſt ſome of their dead in ſuch large Stones made Concave, and cut out for the purpoſe, which hath been frequent in many places with us in Scotland.

At a little diſtance from Papa Stour, A Rock i [...] the Sea where th [...] ruines of an old houſe. lyes a Rock encompaſſed with the Sea called Frau-a-Stack, which is a Daniſh word, and ſignifieth, our Ladys Rock, upon which are to be ſeen, the Ruines of a Houſe, wherein they ſay, a Gentleman did put his Daughter, that ſo ſhe might be ſhut up and ſecluded from the company of Men, but tho a Maiden when put in, yet ſhe was found with Child when brought out, notwithſtanding of her being ſo cloſly kept, but whither this came to paſs by a Golden Shower (the moſt powerful Courtſhip) or not, the Country hath loſt the Tradition: How⯑ever it ſeemeth ſtrange, how a Houſe ſhould be Built on ſuch a bare and ſmall Rock, when ſo many large and pleaſant Iſles were near unto it.

The three Iron-Cannons formerly mentioned now lying in the Citadale of Lerwick, being ruſted by the Sea,Cannons diſcharge them⯑ſelves. wherein they had lien for 80. Years; The Inhabi⯑tants of Lerwick to take of the ruſt, and ſo fit them for their uſe, about 9 Years ago did ſet a heap of Pites about them, which they puting Fire unto, the Guns ſo ſoon as they were warmed and hot, did all diſcharge themſelves to the great ſurpriſal of the Spectatours [110] and the Balls as ſome obſerved, went half over Braſsa Sound. Which deſerveth ſome remark, that the Pow⯑der all that time ſhould retain its Elaſtick Force, th [...] water if at all, yet not ſo inſinuating if ſelf with th [...] Powder, as to waſh it away, or much diminiſh it [...] vertue. Theſe who were Eye witneſſes gave me this Relation.

Fishes and Cattel [...]ittle or no [...]iver.It is obſervable that the former Year 1699 the Fiſhes had little or no Liver, but ſomething black i [...] lieu thereof, which was a great loſs to the Fiſhers, they making their Oyl of thoſe Livers, As alſo the Oxen Sheep, Swine, &c. had little or no Fat on their Livers which uſeth not to be, there being a kind of Con⯑ſumption upon the Livers of Creatures both by Sea and Land; which mindeth me of Rom. 8.22. Man's ſins making the Creation to groan, and earnestly long as with an uplifted head, for a deliverance, So that it the Creatures could ſpeak with Balaam's Aſs, they would reprove the madneſs and ſin of Man.

In Vaila no Cat will live.There is a little Iſle on the Weſt ſide of Waes called Vaila, wherein there is no Cat, neither will any ſtay tho brought in, as hath been done for trial, but will quickly be gone, they either dying, or betaking them⯑ſelves to Sea, they endeavour to ſweem to the next Iſle: Yet about 50. Years ago there was one ſeen upon this Iſle, about that time when a Gentleman the Proprietor thereof was Tormented and put to death by the Witches, but never any were ſeen ſince, ſave what were brought in for trial, as now ſaid. The reaſon of this I could not learn from the Miniſters, who gave the Information, it is like becauſe of the Air, or the ſmell of ſomething upon the Iſle, tho not per⯑ceivable by the Inhabitants, which agreeth not with the Temper and Conſtitution of theſe Animals.

[...]nop of [...]ebiſter [...]here a [...]arlet or [...]izard [...]ed.About a Mile from Tingwal to the North, there is a Hill called the Knop of Kebiſter or Luggies Know, nigh to which Hill there is a Houſe called Kebiſter, where a Varlet or Wizard lived, comonly deſigned [111] Luggie, concerning whom it was reported that when the Sea was ſo Tempeſtuous, that the Boats durſt not go off to the Fiſhing, he uſed to go to that Hill or Know, wherein a hole, into which he let down his Lines and took up any Fiſh he pleaſed, as a Cod or Ling &c. which no other could do but himſelf: Alſo when Fiſhing at Sea, he would at his pleaſure take up any roſted Fiſh with his Line, with the Intrals or Guts out of it, and ſo ready for his uſe: This was certainly done by the Agency of evil Spirits, with whom he was in Compact and Covenant, but the OEconomy of the Kingdom of Darkneſs is very wonderful and little known to us. He being convicted of Witch⯑craft was burnt nigh to Scalloway.

As for Witches I did not [...]ear much of them,Concern⯑ing witch⯑es. as if they abounded more in this, than other Countries, tho I make no queſtion, but that there are many ſuch here thus deluded by the Devil: There is not then ſuch ground for what is ſo commonly talkt by many with us anent their Devilry, which might have affrighted us if given heed unto, as if it were dangerous going or living there; Tho it is ſaid here, there are many of this Helliſh Stamp in Iſland, Lapland, and other places to the North of Zetland, which may occaſion the miſtake.

We ſaid before that there were but few Rats,Concern⯑ing Rats and Mice. and that only in ſome of the Iſles, and thought to come out of Ships; but that they had Mice in aboundance; yet in the Iſles of Burra and Ha [...]kaſhy no Mice are to be found, yea if they take ſome duſt or Earth out of theſe Iſles to other places where they are, they will forſake ſuch places, where the duſt is laid.When Rats leave the Ships it is lookt upon by Mariners as fatal to theſe Ships. It may be for the like reaſon, why no Cats can or will live in Ʋaila.

Sometimes when the Ships are lying nigh Land, the Rats will come aſhore, which when any of the Hol⯑landers or others ſee, they look upon it as Fatal to the Ship out of which they come, portending that her end [112] ſome way or other will ſhortly approach; And like⯑wiſe it is obſerved that theſe Rats will not live abo [...] 3 or 4 Years in that Land to which they come. So [...] of our Seamen tell us of the like as to their Ships; is talkt alſo that theſe Creatures will leave Houſes, b [...] ⯑fore any diſmal accident befal them. What grou [...] there is either for the one or the other I know not, b [...] if true it will be hard, I ſuppoſe, to give the reaſ [...] thereof.

Evil SpiritsNot above 40 or 50 Years ago, almoſt every Fa⯑mily had a Brouny or evil Spirit ſo called, which ſerve [...] them, to whom they gave a Sacrifice for his Service [...] as when they Churned their Milk, they took a pa [...] thereof and ſprinckled every corner of the Houſe wit [...] it for Brounies uſe, likewiſe when they Brewed, the [...] had a ſtone which they called Brounies Stone, where [...] there was a little hole, into which they poured ſom [...] Wort for a Sacrifice to Brouny. My Informer a Mi⯑niſter in the Country told me, that he had converſe [...] with an old Man, who when young uſed to Brew, an [...] ſometimes read upon his Bible, to whom an old Wo⯑man in the Houſe ſaid, that Brouny was diſpleaſed with that Book he read upon, which if he continued to do they would get no more ſervice of Brouny; But h [...] being better inſtructed from that Book, which wa [...] Brounies Eye-ſore and the object of his wrath, when he Brewed, he would not ſuffer any Sacrifice to be given to Brouny, whereupon the 1ſt. and 2d. Brewings were ſpilt and for no uſe, tho the Wort wrought well yet in a little time it left off working and grew cold▪ but of the 3d Browſt or Brewing he had Ale very good, tho he would not give any Sacrifice to Brouny▪ with whom afterwards they were no more troubled I had alſo from the ſame Informer, that a Lady in Ʋn [...] now deceaſed told him, that when ſhe firſt took up [...] Houſe, ſhe refuſed to give a Sacrifice to Brouny upon which the 1ſt. and 2d. Brewings miſgave likewiſe but the 3d. was good; and Browny not being re⯑garded [113] nor rewarded, as formerly he had been, aban⯑ [...]ed his wonted ſervice. Which cleareth that Scrip⯑ [...]re Reſiſt the Devil and he will flee from you. Ja. 4.7. They alſo had [...]acks of Corn, which they called Brounies Stacks, which [...]o they were not bound with ſtraw-ropes, or any way [...]need, as other Stacks uſe to be, yet the greateſt ſtorm [...] Wind was not able to blow any ſtraw off them.

Now I do not hear of any ſuch appearances the Devil makes in theſe ſles,Evil Spirits not now ſo frequently ſeen as for⯑merly. ſo great and and many are [...]e bleſſings which attend a Goſpel diſpenſation: The [...]ounies▪ Fairies and other evil Spirits that haunted [...] were familiar in our Houſes, were diſmiſſed, and [...]ed at the breaking up of our Reformation (if we [...]ay except but a few places not yet well reformed [...]om Popiſh Dregs) as the Heathen Oracles were ſil⯑ [...]ced at the coming of our LORD, and the going [...]rth of his Apoſtles; ſo that our firſt noble Reformers [...]ight have returned and ſaid to their Maſter,Lu: 10.17. as the 70 [...]ce did; Lord even the Devils are ſubject to us through [...]y Name. And tho this reſtraint put upon the Devil [...]as far latter in theſe Northern places then with us, to [...]hom the Light of a Preached Goſpel, did more early [...]ine, yet now alſo do theſe Northern Iſles enjoy the [...]uits of this reſtraint.The ap⯑pearance, of an old Man in the Water.

About two Years and an half or three Years ago, [...]ere was a Boat paſſing with ſeveral Gentlemen of the Countrey in it, and by the way in the Voe of Quarf, through which they went, [...]here appeared ſomething [...]nto them with its Head above the Water, which as [...]hey could diſcern, had the Face of an old Man, with [...] long Beard hanging down; firſt it appeared at ſome [...]iſtance from them, and then coming nearer to their [...]o [...]t, they had a clear ſight of it; The ſight was [...] very ſtrange and affrighting, that all in the Boat were very deſirous to be on Land, tho the Day was fair [...]nd the Sea calm; a Gentleman declaring, as a Mini⯑ [...]ter in Company with them, and ſaw this ſight in⯑ [...]ormed me,) that he never ſaw the like, tho he had tra⯑ [...]elled through many Seas.

[114] And of a Woman.I heard another remarkable ſtory like unto this, th [...] about 5 Years ſince, a Boat at the Fiſhing drew h [...] Lines, and one of them, as the Fiſhers thought, having ſome great Fiſh upon it, was with greater difficulty th [...] the reſt raiſed from the Ground, but when raiſed came more eaſily to the furface of the Water upon which a Creature like a Woman preſented it ſelf at the ſide of the Boat, it had the Face, Arms Breaſts, Shou [...] ⯑ders &c. Of a Woman, and long Hair hanging dot [...] the Back, but the nether part from below the Breaſt was beneath the Water, ſo that they could not under⯑ſtand the ſhape thereof: The two Fiſhers who were the Boat being ſurprized at this ſtrange ſight, one [...] them unadviſedly drew a Knife, and thurſt it into h [...] Breaſt, whereupon ſhe cryed, as they judged, Al [...] and the Hook giving way ſhe fell backward and w [...] no more ſeen: The Hook being big went in at h [...] Chin and out at the upper Lip. The Man who thr [...] the Knife into her is now dead, and, as was obſerved never proſpered after this, but was ſtill haunted by an evil Spirit, in the appearance of an old Man, who, [...] he thought, uſed to ſay unto him, Will ye do ſuch a thing who Killed the Woman; the other Man then in the Bo [...] is yet alive in the Iſle of Burra. This a Gentleman and his Lady told me, who ſaid they had it from the Baillie of that place to which the Boat did belong: [...] being ſo ſtrange I enquired at ſeverals thereane [...] which tho, many were ignorant of, yet ſome ſaid that they had heard thereof, and judged it to be very tru [...]

Creatures in the like⯑ene [...] of Men fre⯑quently ſeen at Sea.That there are Sea-Creatures having the likeneſs [...] Men and Women ſeems to be generally acknowledge [...] by all who have enquired thereunto, they having found it confirmed by the teffimony of many in ſever [...] Countreys, as their Hiſtories do bear. Hence are a [...] ⯑counts given of thoſe Sea Monſters, the Meermen an [...] Meermaids, which have not only been ſeen but appre⯑hended and keept for ſome time. And hence probab⯑ly the fiction of the Poets concerning the Sirenes, ha [...] [115] had its riſe; theſe enchanting Songſters, tranſlated [...]eermaids by our Lexicographers, whoſe ſnare Ulyſſes [...] happily eſcaped.

They tell us that ſeveral ſuch Creatures do appear to fiſhers at Sea, particularly ſuch as they call Sea-Trowers, Several ſuch Crea⯑tures ap⯑pear to Fi⯑shers at Sea as Sea Trowes [...]eat rolling Creatures, tumbling in the Waters, which [...] they come among their nets, they break them, and ſometimes takes them away with them; if the Fiſhers [...]e them before they come near, they endeavour to [...]eep them off with their Oars or long Staves, and if [...]ey can get them beaten therewith, they will endea⯑vour to do it: The Fiſhers both in Orkney and Zetland [...]e affraid when they ſee them, which panick fear of [...]eir's makes them think and ſometimes ſay, that it is [...]e Devil in the ſhape of ſuch Creatures, whether it be [...] or not as they apprehend, I cannot determine. [...]owever it ſeems to be more then probable, that [...]il Spirits frequent both Sea and Land.

A Gentleman in the Pariſh of Dunreſſneſs told one [...] the Miniſters in this Countrey,Fresh Cockles got on the Land. that about 5 Years [...]nce a Plough in this Pariſh did caſt up freſh Cockles, to the place where the Plough was going, was three [...]arters of a Mile from the Sea; which Cockles the [...]entlemen ſaw made ready and eaten. How theſe [...]ell Fiſhes came there, and ſhould be fed at ſuch a [...]ſtance from their ordinary Element I cannot know, if they have not been caſt upon Land by a violent Storm, ſuch of the Ground of this Pariſh, eſpecially what [...]ey Labour lying very low, and the Sea hath been obſerved in ſuch Storms both, to caſt out Stones and [...]iſhes; Or if theſe Cockels have been found in ſome [...]ep Furrow, from which to the Sea there hath been [...] conveyance by ſome ſmall ſtream, upon which the [...]a hath flowed in ſtream Tides, eſpecially when there [...] alſo ſome ſtorm blowing. If only Shells were found, [...]ch as of Oyſters and the like, the marvel would not [...]e great, ſeeing ſuch are found upon the tops of high [...]ountains, at a greater diſtance from the Sea, which [116] in all probability have been there ſince the Unive [...] deluge; but that any Shell-Fiſh ſhould be found ſome diſtance from the Sea and fit for uſe, is ſon what wonderful and aſtoniſhing.

A Tortoiſe found in the Sand.Tho no Tortoiſes uſe to be found in all theſe North⯑ern Seas, yet in Ʋ [...]te-Firth in the Pariſh of North [...] there was one found alive upon the ſand in an ebb t [...] Shell of it was given me as a preſent by a Gentlem [...] of the Countrey, it is about a Foot length, and a lar [...] half Foot in Breadth. The Inhabitants thought [...] ſtrange, never any ſuch having been found in theſe [...] formerly, which ever they came to the knowledge [...] that they could not imagine what to make of it, ſon ſaying that it hath fallen out of ſome Eaſt-India Ship [...]a [...] ⯑ing alongſt by the Coaſts, which looks not ſo probably.

There is a pl [...]ce in this Countrey called the Neip [...] the Pariſh of Neſton looking to the Eaſt Sea,The Par⯑ſon of Or⯑phir killed. where th [...] Parſon of Orphir in Orkney was Killed; the ſtory is thi [...] Patrick Stewart Earl of Orkney, as hath been ſaid, w [...] a great Oppreſſour, enacting ſeveral ſevere and cru [...] Acts, whereof complaint was made to King James [...] And as it is reported ſome Zetlanders went to the King with their Skin-Coats, laying the oppreſſed con⯑dition of their Countrey before him, wherewith the King was moved, yet altho, not only the Earls Honour and Reputation withall was much ſtained, and unde [...] a cloud by reaſon of his cruel and oppreſſive wayes but his perſon was hated and abhored by the People whoſe Superiour he was, the Parſon of Orphir d [...] Zealouſly ſtand in the Earls defence, notwithſtanding whereof the Indignation and kindled wrath of the ex [...] ⯑aſperated People againſt the Earl increaſing, the Parſ⯑on was forced to flee to Zetland for his ſafety, upon which the People of Orkney not quieted, ſome of them purſued him thither, they ſay the Purſuers were 4. Bre⯑thern of the name of Sinclar, who coming to the Nei [...] where the Parſon had his ordinary reſidence, they ap⯑prehended and dewitted him, one of the Brethren tak⯑ing [117] a ſop of his heart-blood; As for the Earl, being firſt empriſoned at Dumbartoun, he was thence brought to Edinburgh, where he was Beheaded. Anno 1614, for Treaſon and Oppreſſion.

There are alſo in this Countrey, as well as in Ork⯑ney many Eagles which deſtroy their Lambs, Fowls,Concern⯑ing Eagles. &c. For the preventing of which, ſome when they [...]ee the Eagles catching or fleeing away with their prey, [...]ſe a Charm, by taking a ſtring whereon they caſt ſome knots, and repeats a form of words, which be⯑ing done the Eagle lets her prey fall, tho at a great diſtance from the Charmer, an inſtance of which I had [...]rom a Miniſter, who told me, that about a Month before we came to Zetland, there was an Eagle that [...]ew up with a Cock at Scalloway, which one of theſe Charmers ſeeing, preſently took a ſtring, (his garter as was ſuppoſed,) and caſting ſome knots thereupon with the uſing the ordinary words, the Eagle did let the Cock fall into the Sea, which was recovered by a Boat that went out for that end.

They tell a pleaſant ſtory of an Eagle and a Turbot. About 6 Years ſince an Eagle fell doun on a Turbot ſleeping on the ſurface of the Water;Concern⯑ing an Eagle and a Turbot. on the Eaſt ſide of Braſſa, and having faſtned his Claws in her, he at⯑tempted to flee up, but the Turbot awakning and be⯑ing too heavy for him to flee up, with endeavoured to [...]raw him down beneath the Water, thus they ſtrugled for [...]ome time, the Eagle labouring to go up, and the Turbot to go down till a Boat that was near to them, and beheld the ſport took them both, ſelling the Eagle to the Hollanders [...]hen in the Countrey. For they ſay when the Eagle hath [...]aſtned his Clawes in any Creature, he cannot looſe them this pleaſure, but uſeth to eat them out, ſo that the prey ſometimes cometh to be a ſnare to this Rapacious Fowl.

On the Weſt-ſide of the Mainland,A Holm frequented by Sea Fowls. there is a Holm belonging to a Gentleman in the Pariſh of Northerne van, [...] much frequented by Fowl, that when ſometimes they go in to it in the Summer ſeaſon, Fowls of ſeveral [118] kinds will flee ſo thick above their Heads, that th [...] will cloud the very Air, yet therein there are few [...] none, during the Winter, but in February they uſe [...] begin to come by pairs, and for two or 3 Dayes aft [...] they firſt come, they will ſit ſo cloſe, that almoſt they m [...] be taken hold of, which is imputed to their being wearied after a long flight from ſome far Countrey▪ The Proprietour of this Holm may almoſt every Day in Summer take a Basket full of Eggs out of it, and they ſcarcely be miſſed, for it is ſo well furniſhed, th [...] none almoſt can ſet doun a Foot for young Fowls [...] Eggs, which are very ſerviceable to this Gentleman [...] Houſe, and the Countrey about.

Noſs of Braſſa high.To the Eaſt of Braſſa is an Iſle called the Noſs Braſſa, wherein a ragged Rock looking to South Eaſt the higheſt in all this Countrey, ſerviceable to Mari⯑ners for directing their courſe when Sailling to the Weſt from Eaſtern Countreys, ſome Gentlemen told [...] that they verily think from the ſurface of the Water to the top of the Rock, it will be 300 Fathoms, up⯑on which a great many Fowls have their Nett [...] whoſe Eggs they take in the Summer time, as alſo ſome of the Fowls, by letting a Man doun from the to [...] of the Rock by a Rope Tied about his middle: Be⯑fore this Iſle lyeth a Rock Raggie On all ſides, about 100 Fathomshigh from the ſurface of the Water, but b [...] reaſon of its Raggedneſs and Declivity, and its being ſur⯑rounded with Sea on all handes, it is ſcarce poſſible t [...] climb it.A Holm, dying be⯑fore it, where Fowls nu⯑merous. Yet the Owners of the Iſle being deſirous, to be a [...] the Fowls and Eggs numerous upon it, about 10 [...] Years ſince there was a Man for the hire of a Co [...] undertook to climb the leſſer Rock, and to faſten [...] Pales or Stakes thereupon, which he accordingly did, bu [...] in the cominng down, he fell into the Sea and Periſhed

The way how they get into this Holm, Remark⯑able.The way how they get into this leſſer rock is ob⯑ſervable, which is thus; oppoſite to the two Stakes o [...] the leſſer, there are alſo Stakes faſtened on the highe [...] Rock, it being but 16. fathoms over between the [119] Rocks; to which Stakes, ropes are faſtned, reaching from Rock to Rock, the Ropes they put through the [...]oles of an Engine called a Craddle; all which being ſo prepared, a Man getteth into the Cradle, and warpeth himſelf over from the Noſs or the greater Rock to the [...]ffer; and ſo having made a good purchaſe of Eggs and [...]owls bought at the expence of the danger of his life, [...] returns the ſame way he went: Theſe Ropes hang [...]ot on all Winter, but in the Summer time, in the Month of June ordinarily, when the Day is calm, they [...]ſt the Ropes from the greater to the leſſer Rock; Which ſo they do, they have 1ſt. ſome ſmall Rope or [...]ordage, to which there is a ſtone faſtned, and they [...]eeping both the ends of this ſmall Rope in their [...]ands, an able Man throweth the ſtone into the leſſer [...]ock, and when caſten over the ſtakes, they heave or [...]ft up this ſmall Rope with a long Pole, that ſo the [...]ought of the Rope may be gotten about the ſtakes; which being done they draw to them the ſmall rope [...]ll a greater tied to it be brought about alſo, [...] and ſo [...]oth ends of the greater Rope they ſecure by the ſtakes [...]n the top of the Noſs,Induſtriae nihil Im⯑poſſibile Nil tam difficile est quod non ſolertia vincat. on which ſtrong and greater [...]ope the Cradle being put, it runneth from Rock to [...]ock: Eaſily a Man in the Cradle goeth from the Noſs [...] the Holm or Rock, by reaſon of its deſcent, but with greater difficulty do they return, therefore there is a [...]mall Rope tied to the Cradle, whereby Men on the [...]loſs help to draw them back. I do not hear that any there ſuch another Cradle is to be found; How many [...]re the Inventions which Man hath found out.

This Holm is much frequented by Fowls more than [...]ny other place on the Eaſt ſide of Zetland, This Holm frequented by Fowls. as the [...]ther Holm of North-Mevan is on the Weſt ſide; the [...]owls have their Neſts on the Holms in a very beau⯑tiful order, all ſet in raws in the form of a Dove-coat, and [...]ch kind or ſort do Neſtle by themſelves; as the Scarfs [...]y themſelves, ſo the Cetywaicks, Tominories, Mawes [...]c. There is a Fowl there called the Scutiallan, of a [120] black colour, and as big as a Wild Duck, which do [...] live upon the Vomit and Excrements of other Fow [...] whom they purſue and having apprehended them, th [...] cauſe them Vomit up what meat they have lately take not yet digeſted: The Lords Works both of Natu [...] and of Grace are wonderful, all ſpeaking forth H [...] Glorious Goodneſs, Wiſdom and Power.

Concern⯑ing the dangers the Inha⯑bitants un⯑dergo.Remarkable are the Dangers, which many in the Iſles do undergo in climbing the Rocks for Fowls a [...] Eggs, eſpecially in Foula, where the Inhabitants in the Summer time do moſt live by this kind of Proviſion and are judged to be the beſt climbers of Rocks in a [...] this Country, for ſome of them will faſten a Stake o [...] Knife, as ſome ſay, in the ground on the top of the Rock, to which they ty a ſmall Rope or Cord, and [...] they will come down the face of the Rock with th [...] in their hand 60 70. or 80. Fathoms, and do re⯑turn bringing up Eggs and Fowls with them; but in⯑deed very many of them loſe their lives this way; ye [...] it is obſerved that few old Men are to be ſeen ther [...] they being ſo cut off before they arrive at old Age [...] Many of them are weary of the dangers and hazard [...] they daily incur, yet neither will they leave the place nor give over theſe perilous attempts, all the ſad in⯑ſtances of their Friends and Neighbours Periſhing an [...] death cannot have this influence to deter and affrigh [...] them from undergoing the like hazards:Labor om⯑nia vincet Improbus & duris urgens in rebus Egeſ⯑tas. Virg. At ſo ſma [...] a rate do they value their lives, that for a few Fow [...] and Eggs they will endanger them, whereas they might have as good and a much ſafer living elſewher [...] As this ſheweth both their Folly and their Sin,Impiger extremos currit Mercator ad Indos, per Ma [...]e pauperiem fugiens per laxa per Ignes. [...] what fatigue and danger Men will expoſe themſelves t [...] for the avoiding Poverty and Straits, for the upholding this Clayie Tabernacle, which ere long will mould [...] into the duſt, and often not ſo much for the ſatisfying the neceſſary cravings of Nature, as the ſuperfluous an [...] inſatiable deſires of our Luſts. Sometimes one Ma [...] will ſtand on the top of the Rock holding the end [...] [121] the Rope in his hand, and another will go down, [...]hich neither is without danger, as they tell us of one [...]o thus holding his Neighbour did let the rope ſlip, [...]d down fell the Climber into the Sea, but providen⯑ [...]ly there being a Boat near by, they got hold of him, [...]d took him in, and ſo came home before his Neigh⯑bour, who judged him to have periſhed: The other [...]an at length came home with great Sorrow and Greif [...]grating the Death of his Neighbour, but he hearing [...] he was already come home, was not a little con⯑ [...]unded and aſtoniſhed at the report until that at [...]eeting the Man in danger narrated the manner of his [...]eliverance, which afforded unto them both, great [...]atter of refreſhment and joy.

In all this Country there are only three Towred Churches, (i e.) Churches with Towers on them,Three towred Churches. to [...]t T [...]ngwal on the Mainland, the Church of Burra on [...]e Iſle of Burra, and the Church of Ireland a Promon⯑ [...]y belonging to the Main, f [...]om the top of one of [...]hich Towers you can ſee another; Built they ſay, by [...]ree Siſters, who from their ſeveral Towers could [...]ve advertiſement to one another.

The Church of Tingwal ſtandeth on a Valley be⯑tween two Hills lying Eaſt and Weſt,A Holm called the Law-Ting and is about the [...]ddle of the Mainland. It was in this Pariſh in a [...]all Holm, within a Lake high to this Church, there the Principal Feud or Judge of the Country; [...]el to fit and give Judgment, hence the Holm to this [...]ay is called the Law-Ting (from which probably the [...]ariſh of Tingwal had its name) we go into this Holm [...] ſteping ſtones, where three or four great Stones [...]e to be ſeen, upon which the Judge, Clerk and other Officers of the Court did ſit: All the Country concerned to be there ſtood at ſome diſtance from the [...]olm on the ſide of the Loch, and when any of their [...]auſes was to be Judged or Determined, or the judge [...]ound it neceſſary that any Perſon ſhould compear be⯑fore him, he was called upon by the Officer, and went [122] in by theſe ſteping ſtones, who when heard, retur [...] the ſame way he came: And tho now this place be [...] the Seat of Judgement, there is yet ſomething am [...] them to this day, which keepeth up the Memory their old Practice, for at every end of the Loch th [...] is a Houſe, upon whoſe Graſs the Country Men co [...] ⯑ing to the Court did leave their Horſes, and by rea [...] the Maſters of theſe Houſes did ſuffer a loſs this w [...] they were declared to be Scat-free, hence at this preſ [...] time, two places in the Pariſh of Sanfling do pay S [...] for the one, and Coningsburg in Dunroſsneſs for t [...] other: Scat is a kind of Rent or Due, which is Yea payed to the King or his Taxmen; by the Gentlem [...] and ſeveral others in the Country. This Court thought to have been keeped by the Danes, when th [...] were in the Poſſeſſion of the Country. They alſo [...] port that when any Perſon received Sentence of Dea [...] upon the Holm, if afterwards he could make his eſca [...] through the crowd of People ſtanding on the ſide the Loch, without being apprehended, and touch [...] Steeple of the Church of Tingwal, the Sentence of Dea [...] was Retrieved and the Condemned obtained an Inde [...] ⯑nity: For this Steeple in theſe days was held as Aſyl for Malefactours, Debitors Charged by their C [...] ⯑ditors &c. to flee into.

An obelisk between Tingwal and Scallo⯑way.In the way between Tingwal and Scalloway, there an high Stone ſtanding in form of an Obelisk as ſo [...] Ancient Monument, concerning which the People ha [...] various Traditions, ſome ſaying that in the Strath Tingwal, where this Stone is erected, there was a Bloo [...] Fight between the Danes and the old Inhabitants Natives of this Country, and that the Norvegian Daniſh General was killed in this place, where t [...] Stone is ſet up. Others report that one of the Ea [...] of Orkney, had a profligate and prodigal Son, who [...] this cauſe being animadverted upon by his Father, fl [...] to Zetland, and there built a Caſtle or a ſtrong Ho [...] for himſelf within a Loch at Stroma, within two Mi [...] [123] Tingwal to the Weſt, the ruines whereof are yet be ſeen: His Father not being ſatisfied with his [...]ape, and the way he took for his Defence, ſent from [...]kney 4. or 5. Men to purſue him, to whom he gave [...]ders that they ſhould bring his Son to him, either [...]d or alive: The Son thereupon not finding him⯑ [...] ſafe enough in his Caſtle, made his eſcape from [...] Caſtle, where the Purſuers lay in Ambuſh, but was [...]ertaken by them in the Strath of Tingwal and killed [...]re, whereupon this Monument was erected. The [...]rſuers took off his head, and carried it with them to [...] Father, but in ſo doing they were ſo far from gra⯑ [...]ying of him, that he cauſed them all to be put to [...] Death, notwithſtanding of the orders given by [...]

There is in the Pariſh of Tingwal a little off the way [...] we go from Lerwick to Scalloway, Concern⯑ing a Spring. a Fountain or [...]ing of very pure and pleaſant Water, which run⯑ [...] through a great Stone in the Rock by the paſſage of [...]ound hole, which if you ſtop, the Water forceth its [...]y through the pores of the Stone in other places, [...] Stone it ſeems being very porous and ſpungy.

One of the Miniſters told us of a Monſter born the [...] Year in the Pariſh of Neston, about 9 or 10.Monſters born. [...]les from Lerwick, That one day when he was com⯑ [...]g to the Presbytry, and ſtanding at the Ferry-ſide [...]er which he was to paſs, two Women came to him [...]quainting him with fear and greif, that their Neigh⯑ [...]ur near by, had been Travelling in Child-Birth under [...]d Labour for 3. days paſt, and had brought forth Monſter, which had upon its Forehead like a Pirwig [...] Fleſh and Hair, raiſed and towered up, and by [...]e ſides of the head, there were like wires of Fleſh [...]ming down: Moreover it had two raws of Teeth, [...]th a Mouth like a Rabbet, deſtitute of Arms and [...]gs; After the Birth there was ſome life in it, and [...] moved a little, but lived not long; the Women [...]iſting at the Birth for a time were affraid to touch it, [124] it being ſuch a ſtrange and formidable ſight. T [...] Miniſter deſired to ſee it, but it was Buried before came. The ſame Woman alſo formerly had brou [...] forth two Monſters, the firſt whereof was a con [...] and undigeſted [...]mp of Fleſh; and the ſecond ha [...] Mouth in its Breaſt.

We enquired concerning the Woman, and they t [...] us that they knew nothing of Scandal they could la [...] her Charge, but that ſhe had lived ſoberly all her li [...] only one of the Miniſters informed us, that after had brought forth the firſt Mon [...]ter, he heard that a Years time thereafter, ſhe uſed to go bare footed the Church of Wiſdale every Lord's Day, and p [...] there according to the Vow ſhe had made after Birth, thinking thereby, that this might Atone what was paſt, and prevent the like for the Future, this be true, God hath judicially puniſhed her, Conceiving and Bringing forth the two follow Monſters, each more wonderful and preternatural t [...] the other.

God's judgments on Adul⯑terers.Several Adulteries came before the Commiſſion atte [...] ⯑ed with heinous aggravating Circumſtances. One [...] ⯑ſtance we had very remarkable of one James Mo [...] in the Pariſh of North Mevan who had been lying Adultery with one Clara Tutloch, his Wi [...]e being d [...] not many Years ſince. Between which Mowa [...] Tulloch; there were ſeveral Children Procreated, [...] were all Idiots and Fools, ſo that they could not k [...] themſelves either from Fire or Water, or put t [...] meat in their Mouths, tho there be one of them of Years, and others of them tho younger, yet come ſome conſiderable Age. Which ſheweth the mani [...] Judgment of God againſt Adulterers, he often or [...] ⯑ing his Providential Diſpenſations ſo towards the [...] that they may read their Sin in their Puniſhment, this wretched Man was forced by the power of his ſo convinced Conſcience to confeſs before the Presbyt [...] That he was ſenſible the Judgments of God were p [...] ⯑ſuing [125] him, whereof he gave the ſaid ſad Inſtance, as [...]et to be ſeen from the Presbyteries Records. Another Adulterer alſo did Compeir before us, who did con⯑tinue in the Commiſſion of this his Sin for many Years, [...]nd doth bear in his Face the ſhameful reproof there⯑of, and the juſt marks of the Lords Indignation againſt him for the ſame. It is a very ſad thing for any to be pining away both in Judgments and Sins.

A Miniſter here told me a paſſage not to be paſſed without a Remark of God's Righteous Judgment and Holineſs.Another inſtance of God's judgments on Adul⯑terers. A certain Woman in his Pariſh about 10 Years ſince fell into Adultery with an old Married Man, he to cover his Villany, adviſed her to give way to another young Mans ſinning with her, who then was [...]n ſuit of her and frequented her Company, that ſo if there were a Child, ſhe might Father it upon this young and unmarried Man; Accordingly as was ad⯑viſed it fell out, the young Man ſinned with her, and ſhe being found with Child, is ſummoned to compeir before the Seſſion, who having interrogated her con⯑cerning her Uncleanneſs, and who was the Father of the Child, ſhe anſwered that ſhe never knew or had Carnal Dealing with any, ſave ſuch a young Man. But this covering could not ſerve the turn in palliating their Filthineſs, God in His Wiſe Providence ſo order⯑ing it, that tho there was the Interval of 5 Months between the old and the young Mans ſinning with her yet when the time of her delivery came, ſhe firſt brought forth a perfect Child of 9 Months, and the day after another imperfect of 4 Months, according to the ſeveral times of the old Man, and the young Mans ſining with her. She being convinced that this was of the Lord, and that ſhe could not hide her ſins from God, tho ſhe ſought to do it from Men, ſhe in⯑genuouſly acknowledged her Guilt with both, and for the Scandal is now giving Satisfaction in the Pariſh of Ʋnſt.

[126] Another inſtance.We had alſo the Lamentable Account of the Tra⯑gical end of one Mr. Gilbert Hendry Adulterer, in re⯑pute, for his acuteneſs of wit and the many excellen [...] Poems he compoſed: He being a married Man had car⯑nal converſe with another Woman, at which his Friends and Welwiſhers being greatly concerned, one o [...] them laid hold of an oppertunity to accoſt and ſet upo [...] him, earneſtly intreating he might break off his unclea [...] and debauched converſe with that Woman holding ou [...] unto him his ſin and Miſery, and uſing what Argu⯑ments he thought might prevail for that end, but h [...] gave a deaf ear unto all that was ſaid, and by no mean would be diſſwaded from haunting her Company, ye [...] in contempt of the admonition and reproof, made as [...] he were going to that Womans Houſe the ſame night and ſo parting from his freind, went in the evening to Water or Loch ſide, where he walked for ſome tim [...] alone, and then appeared a Man in company with him all in black, and thus they contiuned walking together till Night, as the People obſerving did Judge, and the next Morning this miſerable wretch was found dea [...] with his brains daſhed out (tho there were no ſtone near to that place where he lay) on a Hill ſide at a little diſtance from the Water, his head and ſhoulders lying dounward to the deſcent of the Hill, his brains wen [...] ſcattered, and the ground about him was all troden, a [...] if there had been (ſaith my Informer,) 20 Men and Hor⯑ſes for 24, hours upon the Spot. It is not many Year ſince this fell out. So bad a recompenſe doth the Devi [...] give his Vaſſals and Slaves for their ſervice, for Whore⯑mongers and Adulterers God will Judge, which Judgment often he beginneth to inflict in this life, for the puniſh⯑ment of the guilty, and the terrour of all, and to ſhew that he is of purer eyes then that he can behold ſuch horrid Iniquity;Obſerve on the Spa⯑nish Ar⯑mado. tho the pouring out of the full vials of his Wrath he reſerveth for the future, where their worm ſhall not die, nor the fire for ever be quenched.

The ſignal defeat and overthrow of the Spaniſh Ar⯑mado [127] that ſuppoſed and commonly (tho arrogantly) cal⯑ [...]ed Invincible Navy Anno 1588. is famous in Hiſtory, which was eſpecially cauſed by ſtormy Winds and Tem⯑ [...]eſts, ſome thereby ſinking at Sea, others ſpleeting upon [...]he Coaſts both of England and France and eſpecially upon the North of Scotland, Orkney and Zetland; and the [...] Iſle had the honour of the Duke of Median's being [...]iven aſhore upon it, under whoſe conduct this Navy [...]as, who after his Shipwrack came over to Dunroſs⯑ [...]eſs in Zetland, as an old Gentlewoman Informed me; [...]f whom ſhe heard the Countrey People who ſaw him, [...]equently ſpeak, when ſhe was a Child; So the Lord [...]isperſed and broke this huge and formidable Navy [...]t of an hundred and thirty ſhips which ſet out from [...]ain with Proviſion, Ammunition, and other furniture exceeding great, ſcarce 30. returned; The God of Land [...]d Sea heard and anſwered the Prayers of his People [...] Britain, the Curſe of God purſuing that helliſh enter⯑ [...]riſe notwithſtanding of the Infallible Popiſh benedict⯑ [...]n on that Invincible Armado; for as our Hiſtorian [...]lderwood obſerveth, "The rumour of the great Spa⯑niſh Armado being blazed abroad,Cald. Hiſt. on Anno 1588. fervent were the Prayers of the Godly in Scotland, powerful and peir⯑cing were the Sermons of Preachers, eſpecially in the time of Faſt, whereupon the Lord uttered his voice [...]gainſt his and his Churches enemies, by terrible things [...] Righteousneſs; Our Coaſts upon which many of that [...]leet were caſt away, and ſome of the Perſons in it beg⯑ed from door to door, proclaiming aloud the Glory of [...]s Juſtice and Power.

There are no Weaſels in all the Northern Iſles of Zet⯑ [...]and, as I am informed, tho numerous in the Mainland,No Wea⯑ſels for⯑merly, but now nu⯑merous on the Main⯑land. which they report thus came to paſs: The Falconer [...]iving a Power given him, to get a Hen out of every [...]ouſe, once in the Year; but one Year they refuſing, [...] not being ſo willing to give, The Falconer out of [...]evenge, brought the next Year two Weaſels with [...]m, which did generate and ſpread, ſo that now they [128] are become very deſtructive to ſeveral goods of t [...] Inhabitants, whereof a Gentleman our Informer, to us he had killed ſeverals half an Ell long.

CHAP. IX. The Fiſh-Trade is moſt conſiderable, in Z [...] ⯑land.

Obſerves on their Fishtrade.OF all the things remarkable in Zetland, their F [...] Trade is the moſt conſiderable, wherefore I ha [...] choſen to ſpeak of it by it ſel [...]. Which I ſhall labo [...] to do, by ſhewing what Fiſhing they have in theſe Se [...] and what Fiſhes they do moſt abound in, and have ple [...] ⯑ty of; And then hold out who are theſe who Trade, a [...] what advantages do accrue thereby unto the [...]n [...]a [...] ⯑tants, with ſome Reflections upon the whole.

The Fish⯑ing de⯑cayed be⯑ſide what formerly it hath been.The Fiſhing here is much decayed by what it wa [...] for now neither is there ſuch a great number of Fiſh taken, nor ſo eaſily can they be had as formerly; [...] not above 40. or 30. Years ſince, the Fiſhers wo [...] have taken the great Fiſhes, ſuch as Killen, Ling & in the Voes or Lochs, and that in great numbers, a [...] ſo were not neceſſitated to underly ſuch danger a [...] toil, in going out to the Sea, but could have lien b [...] ⯑fore their oun doors, and drawen the Fiſhes, whi [...] certainly was more ſafe, eaſy, and convenient to the [...] in many Reſpects: Whereas now they are obliged [...] put out ſome Leagues unto the Sea, and ſo far oft [...] that they almoſt ſink the Land, elſe they cannot [...]a [...] any Fiſhing, worth their expence and pains, whi [...] cannot but be very toilſome and dangerous, in caſe ſtorm ſhould ariſe and blow off the Land, and ſo p [...] them to Sea, with their little Boats or Yoals, not ab [...] to keep ong out againſt the violent and ſwelling wav [...] and ſo hath it fallen o [...]t unto ſome, who being toſſ [...] to and fro, whether tide and Wind did drive the [...] have never ſeen Land any more. And as it is dang [...] ⯑ [...]s, [129] ſo it is toilſome and coſts them much labour, [...]ing often they ly ſome Nights and Days at Sea, and [...] come aſhore.

The Fiſhing formerly being greater then what now [...]s, occaſioned, they ſay,Notwith⯑ſtanding their Fi⯑shing yet is great. ſome hundreds of mo Ships [...]ſort Yearly unto this Countrey, then what now [...] to do when Fiſhes cannot be had for to ſerve them, [...] indeed neither now are the Fiſhes ſo ſought after, [...]ometime they have been, when they could be eaſily [...], many being willing rather to ſtay at home and [...]ch what they can about the Coaſts which ordinarily [...] but the ſmaller Fiſhes, then to undergo ſuch hazards [...] toil in following the greater, which an Hamburgh⯑ [...]chant waiting for a lading complained to me of.

Altho when we inſtitute the Compariſon between [...] former and the latter times,Fishes taken in great numbers Anno 1700. their preſent Fiſhing [...]l appear to be but ſmall, yet if we take it und [...]r [...]w as it is in it ſelf without ſuch a reſpect, we will find [...]o be very conſiderable: for tho in ſome Years it be [...]ater then in others yet every Year many trading [...]os are thereby laded; and this ſame Year 1700 the [...]ing is thought to be very good; an Inſtance whereof Merchant gave us, that in one Week in the Month [...] June, there were taken by ſome Boats belonging to [...] place, of Northmevan 4000, Ling, all which were [...]ught in for the Loadening of that Ship, wherein he [...] concerned. And another Gentleman added, that [...]e other Boats at a little diſtance from theſe, drew [...]ut 700. mo [...] but this was ſomething exterordinary, [...] uſeth not often to fall out, that in one Week they [...]e ſuch a number.

The Fiſhes that do moſt abound here are Killin,What Fishes abound here. [...]g &c. which being ſalted and dried Foreigners export [...]m to other Countreys; of theſe, as hath been ſaid, [...]re is a great plenty, but are not ordinarily taken near [...] Land; as for Haddocks, Whitings and ſuch leſſer [...]ite Fiſhes, they care not ſo much for the ſeeking af⯑ [...] except what is for their oun uſe, for ſtrangers uſe [130] but ſeldom to buy them: And theſe greater Fiſhes th [...] get a greater quantity of in ſome places, then in othe [...] as off Dunroſsneſs, Northmevan, Ʋnſt, Yell, &c.

Herring numerous.Great ſhoals of Herring do ſweem alſo in theſe Se [...] which are taken in the Summer ſeaſon, eſpecially the Month of July, and the beginning of Auguſt, ſometimes then they will come within a Pennie-ſt [...] caſt of the ſhore, and be ſweeming ſo thick, and ta [...] ſo faſt, that one Boat will call upon another, to co [...] and help them, and take a part of their Fiſhes; Th [...] Herrings taken here are reckoned to be very good [...] not among the beſt, that are taken upon the Iſles [...] longing to the King of Britain's Dominions, and as n [...] ſaid of the white Fiſh, ſo it is of the Herrings, they f [...] ⯑quent ſome places more then others, as off Braſſa to t [...] Eaſt, and between Braſsa and Whalſey or the Skerr [...] where the Buſhes do commonly ly, within ſight of [...] Land of Zetland. And whatever may be ſaid of Gro [...] his Mare Commune or Liberum, yet it holds here, for a [...] have or take liberty to come and Fiſh in theſe ſe [...] without any way acknowledging that Soveraig [...] whereunto theſe Iſles do belong.

So Silluks and Seths out of whoſe Livers good Oyl is got.There are likewiſe here a great many Grey Fiſ [...] taken, which they call Silluks and Seths, which [...] Judged to be the ſame kind of Fiſh, only the Seths▪ a greater and older Silluks; a thick and fat Fiſh, out of one liver of ſome Seths they will get a pint, our meaſure, of Oyl, with which Oyl the Inhabita [...] pay part of their Rents, and ſells the reſt unto M [...] ⯑chents. The Oyl they get after this Manner. They [...] the Liver into a Pot or Pan half full of Water, wh [...] when ſeething, the Oyl by the force of the fire or be⯑ing Water, is drawn from the Liver, which ſo be [...] ſeparated, and ſweeming above, they take or ſcum [...] off, and puts in veſſels for the uſe. Theſe Seths are be had about all the Coaſts, but more eſpecially ab [...] Dunroſsneſs, Delton and ſome other places. The [...] ⯑luks as hath been obſerved, are very numerous in O⯑ [...], [131] but more rarely are the Seths to be had there, tho [...]e ſame kind of Fiſh: but in Zetland there is no ſcarci⯑ [...] of both.

Among the many other excellent Fiſhes which are [...]re for to be had, there are the Tusk a rare,Tusk a rare Fish. wholſome [...]d delicious Fiſh, no leſs pleaſant to the taſte, then [...]ey are to the eye, ſome of them are as big as Ling, [...]a broun and yellow colour, with a broad tail, when [...]aking ready for uſe they ſwell in the pan more then [...]y other Fiſh, when made ready their Fiſh is very [...]hite and clear, when new haled they are much [...]ore pleaſant to eat then when ſalted and dryed, for [...]n I think they loſe much of their Savour and Re⯑ [...]h; They begin to Fiſh for them about the end of May [...] beginning of June, and are taken to the Eaſt of the [...]e of Braſſa, or between Braſſa and Whalſey, opening to [...]e Coaſts of Norway, and here only are they to be [...]und, and more rarely in other places, except off Dun⯑ [...]ſineſs, where alſo ſometimes they are got. The Fi⯑ [...]ers often go out about the beginning of the Week, [...]d not return, home till the end of it, and the further [...]ey go off to the Sea, they will get them the bigger, [...]d in greater numbers. They uſe to ſell them to the [...]amburghers for 8. or 10 lib. Scots the 100. or ſix [...]ore, and ſome of them alſo are taken to other places, [...]here they are much deſired by ſuch as know them.

Thoſe who commonly frequent this Countrey and [...]ade with the Inhabitants are Hamburghers, This Countrey frequen⯑ted by Hambur⯑gers, Bre⯑mers, &c. and ſome⯑ [...]mes Bremers and others, who come here ordinarily [...] the Month of May or about the beginning of June, [...]d in ſeveral places ſet up Booths or Shops, where [...]ey ſell Liquours, as Beer, Brandie &c. and wheat⯑ [...]ead, as that which they call Cringel Bread, and the [...]ke, they alſo ſell ſeveral ſorts of Creme-Ware, as Li⯑ [...]n, Muſlin &c. And theſe Merchants ſeek nothing [...]tter in Exchange for their Commodities, then to tru [...]k [...]ith the Countrey for their Fiſhes, which when the [...]ſhers engage to, the Merchants will give them ei⯑ther [132] Money or Ware which they pleaſe, and ſo [...] Fiſhers going to Sea, what they take, they bring o [...] in the Week or oftener, as they have occaſion, [...] layes them down at their Booth Door, or in any o [...] place where the Merchant appoints them to be [...] and they being there numbered, the Merchants acco [...] for them accordingly; theſe Fiſhes which are o [...]arly great white Fiſhes as Killen, Ling, and the like, Merchants or their Servants having dried they t [...] them Aboard of their Ships: Several ſuch D [...] Booths are to be ſeen through the Iſles, as 6 ord [...] ⯑arily in the Iſle of Ʋnſt, two in Yell &c.

Holland⯑ers alſo re⯑pair there unto for Herring-FishingThe Hollanders alſo repair to theſe Iſles in J [...] as hath been ſaid, for their Herring Fiſhing, but t [...] cannot be ſaid ſo properly to Trade with the Count [...] as to Fiſh upon their Coaſts, and they uſe to bring ſorts of Proviſions neceſſary with them, ſave ſ [...] freſh Victuals, as Sheep, Lambs, Hens, &c. Wh [...] they buy on ſhore: Stockins alſo are brought by [...] Countrey People from all quarters to Lerwick and ſ [...] to theſe Fiſhers, for ſometimes many thouſands of the [...] will be aſhore at one time, and ordinary it is wi [...] them to buy Stokins to themſelves, and ſome likew [...] do to their Wives and Children; which is very ber [...] ⯑ [...]ial to the Inhabitans, for ſo Money is brought in the Countrey, there is a Vent for the Wooll and t [...] Poor are Employed, Stokins alſo are brought fro [...] Orkney, and ſold there, whereby ſome gain accrues the Retailers, who wait the coming of the Dutch Fle [...] for a Market.

Much ad⯑vantage redound⯑eth to them from their Trade with the Hamburg⯑ers.But eſpecially much advantage doth redound [...] them from their Trade with the Hamburgers, for b [...] ⯑ſides that they are furniſhed by them with Proviſion what neceſſary what convenient, theſe Merchants brin [...] a conſiderable Sum of Money with them, ſo that [...] one of their Miniſters told me, 7 Ships are ordinar [...] reckoned to have 3600. Dollars aboard, which the [...] leave behind them not only for Fiſhes, but alſo fo [...] [133] ſeveral other things, which are the product of the Countrey, as Butter, Oyl &c. And if any pleaſe not to take their Commodities, they preſently give them Mo⯑ney upon the receipt of the Goods. The Proprietors alſo or Maſters of the Ground, upon which theſe Booths are Built, reap a conſiderable Gain, for ſome of them will get to Dollars per annum for the uſe of a Houſe, in the Summer Seaſon to be a Booth; and I think twice or thrice the Sum will Build them.

Upon the whole of this Chap. we may entertain theſe following Reflections, Firſt.Some re⯑flections on this Chap. Hence we may obſerve, the P [...]wer, Wiſdom, and Goodneſs of GOD; His POWER in that his Hands have made this great and wide Sea,Pſ. 104.25. wherein are things creeping innumer⯑able; how many Millions of great and ſmall Fiſhes are every Year taken, yet the next we expect to be ſerved with as great a number; God giving theſe Creatures the Sea for their proper Habitation, and providing ſuit⯑able Proviſion for them in that Element, where neither Seed-time nor Harveſt, yet all theſe wait upon Him,Pſal. 104.27. and he giveth them their Meat in due Seaſon. His WISDOM, in that wiſe and beautiful Order to be ob⯑ſerved among theſe Brutal Creatures, the ſeveral kinds knowing their coming and their going time, and their loving to frequent one place of the Water more than mother, tho both under the ſame Climate; Their going forth all of them by Bands, tho they have no King, Overſeer or Ruler, theſe Squammoſae Cobortes, tho [...]ot governed by Principles of Reaſon, yet by their Na⯑tural Inſtinct being reaſonably Acted, each to their proper ends for the Maintenance and Preſervation of their ſeveral kinds, give occaſion to reaſonable Man to Acknowledge, Admire and Adore, the Infinite Wiſ⯑dom of his and their Maker. Here alſo the GOOD⯑NESS of GOD is to be obſerved in this, that all theſe [...]e given for the Service of Man, that not only our Tables ſhould be Furniſhed with the Creatures that [...]reath in the ſame Element with us, but alſo with theſe [134] that live in another, and ſeeing all theſe are, as it we Sacrificed for our uſe,Rom. 12.1. ſhould we not Preſent our ſelv [...] Souls and Bodies living Sacrifices Holy and Acceptable u [...] God, which is our Reaſonable Service. Seeing that G [...] hath made Man to have Dominion over the Beaſts the Field, the Fowls of the Air, and the Fiſhes of t [...] Sea, ſhould we not gratefully ſhew forth His Prai [...] and ſay with all the wiſe Obſervers of Providence,Pſal. 8. Lord, our Lord, how excellent is thy Name in all [...] Earth?

2. It is the Fiſhing only which makes this Countr [...] any way deſirable, elſe it would be very unpleaſant li [...] ⯑ing there,Hec Boeth. Hiſt. as Boeth. of old did obſerve, Quorum o [...] univerſae in piſcibus ſole arefactis, quas quotannis ad eos [...] ⯑cedentes Hollandi, Zelandi ac Germani aliarumque rer [...] vulgarium permutatione mercantur. Yea if we abſtra [...] from their Fiſhing-Trade, in many places there cot [...] not be any living at all, they not having Fields eith [...] for Corn-Land or Grazing; but they Trading [...] Fiſhes with Foreign Merchants, who Import ma [...] Goods for the more comfortable living of the Countre [...] their coming in the Summer is very refreſhful to all t [...] Inhabitants, the thoughts and expectation of which the Winter, doth not a little revive them, when th [...] ſhall enjoy ſome better Fare, than what their Countre [...] doth afford, when Hamburgh-Liquors and Commod [...] ⯑ties ſhall be brought to their Doors, which being e [...] ⯑pected and deſired, may occaſion ſometimes their ta [...] ⯑ing of a larger Cup, they knowing that the Booths w [...] not always ſtand open.

3. It is to be obſerved, that ſtill the further Nor [...] we go,Non om⯑nis fert omniae Tel⯑lus. the Fiſhes are to be had in greater aboundanc [...] in Zetland more than in Orkney, and in Iſland to th [...] North of Zetland, more than in either, the Inhabitan [...] there moſtly living upon Fiſhes; And again we ma [...] nottice, as there is not ſuch a plenty of Fiſhes in Orkn [...] as in Zetland, yet there is a greater of Corn; and [...] in Zetland there is more Corn, than in Iſland, for i [...] [135] Iſland they have little if any Corn as the product of [...]heir Countrey, as ſome in Zetland did inform me, who [...]ave converſed with theſe that had been there: There⯑ [...]ore the Commonalty generally make uſe of dried [...]iſhes beaten ſmall in ſtead of Bread, as Boeth. [...]hinteth [...]t, Ʋltra Schethlandicas aliae quaedam Inſulae, Boeth. Hiſt quae piſces [...]efactos ac ſole induratos piſtillo contundunt, mox admiſta quâ in paſtillos componunt, atque ad focum torrent, qui illis [...]nis eſt. Which ſheweth us the great Wiſdom of God [...]n His Works of Providence, who beſtoweth not all Bleſſings upon every Nation, but when He denyeth [...]r giveth leſs of one Bleſſing to one Nation or Coun⯑ [...]rey, He alloweth them more of another, which is alſo often obſerved with reſpect to particular Perſons. This variety likewiſe ſheweth the neceſſity and advan⯑ [...]age of one Nation or Kingdoms Trading with ano⯑ther.

4. The Fiſhing-Trade is very Lucrative and En⯑ [...]iching to theſe who cloſely follow it, it is commonly [...]aid, that it is the Fiſhing which firſt raiſed the Ne⯑ [...]herlands to that pitch of Grandure and Wealth, which [...]ow they have arrived at, hence ſome Hiſtorians call the Fiſhery, The Gold-Mine of Holland, and that by [...]heir Fiſhing eſpecially in the Britiſh Seas. And if it were [...]ot ſo very Gainful what would make them every Year Equip ſuch a numerous Fleet of ſeveral hund⯑reds, of Buſhes, under the Guard and Protection of their Convoyes, but that they know the Zetland Seas makes their Mills to go, therefore they do ſo warmly purſue this Trade, and Encourage the U [...]dertakers thereof. And ſo it is with the Hamburgers and other Merchants eſpecially in the Hans Towns, who Trading here during the Summer Seaſon, return home in Au⯑guſt or September, they not only with Fiſhes ſerving their Reſpective Cities, but by ſending them alſo up the Countrey do make a good Market, which engageth and Encourageth them to return every Year and follow the ſame Trade.

[136]5. The Conſideration of this great Gain that dot [...] redound to the Trading Merchants, hath of late an [...] ⯑mated ſome Gentlemen and others in Zetland, t [...] enter into a Society or Company for Trading in Fiſhes that whereas Strangers make ſuch a good hand wit [...] their Fiſhes, they may as well conſult their own Pro⯑fite and Gain, by Promoting of that Trade, whic [...] tendeth ſo much to the Enriching of others, eſpeciall [...] ſeeing they can do it with far leſs Trouble and Ex⯑pence when here at Home, where the Fiſhes are to b [...] had, which when taken and prepared may be ſ [...]n [...] Abroad for Sale to Foreign Markets, whereas th [...] Hamburgers and others which come here, are obliged to tarry from Home through the Summer, waiting for their Lading.

6. It hath been thought very ſtrange by many that our own Fiſhing, for which we have ſo great and ſo inviting Advantages beyond others, ſhould yet b [...] ſo much neglected by our ſelves, and left to the Im⯑provement of Strangers who reap vaſt Gain from it▪ And as this deſerves the conſideration of the Govern⯑ment, ſo it might be expected that the late diſappoint⯑ment, in the Holy and Wiſe Providence, of this Na [...]i⯑ons Noble and Generous Attempt to have Settled [...] Foreign Plantation, for raiſing us from the Dunghil [...] of Contempt and Poverty, and Advancing our Wealth and Trade, will excite both theſe worthy Undertaker [...] and others to Employ their Stocks and Endeavours i [...] ſearching after and digging theſe Mines of the Ocean nearer Home and Profiting by theſe Bleſſings, which Providence has brought to our very Doors, eſpecially ſince thereby not only would a number of able Seame [...] be Yearly Trained for the uſe and ſervice of the Na⯑tion, and the Nation thereby put in a better Capacity for Undertaking and Supporting greater Projects o [...] Trade in the more remote parts of the World, bu [...] likewiſe many poor People would be Employed wh [...] are ready to Starve. And it is more reaſonable w [...] [137] ſhould Fiſh in our own Seas, than for Strangers ſo to [...]; And I do greatly queſtion, if the Hollanders, [...]mburgers or others, would ſo permit us to Fiſh in [...]y Seas ſo nigh to their Land, depending on their [...]veraignty, as we do them.

And for this end Shiping would be Encouraged [...] the Government, and Trading Merchants as the [...]llanders do, An Inſtance whereof we had when in [...]tland, a Holland Ship came into Braſsa Sound from [...]ſing about the Fair Iſle, waiting for the Eaſt India [...]et, having in her Wine, Brandy, Victuals &c. for [...]ir uſe, that they might be Refreſhed, before they [...]ived at their Port, and this the Trading Company [...]glect not ordinarily to do, which ſheweth they are [...]at Encouragers of Trade. And for the Encourag⯑ [...] of Trade, Taxations impoſed upon Shiping ſhould [...] eaſy, eſpecially now when the Trade is ſo low, [...]t many Merchants and Ship-Maſters, after they [...]e hazarded their Lives and their All, do return [...]ſers Home; For if otherwiſe no wonder that all [...]ncerned in Trade, be Diſpirited and Diſcouraged in [...]empting any thing that is Noble, which might tend [...] the Nations Publick Good.

CHAP. X. Concerning Pightland Firth, the ſeveral Tides which meet there, the danger of Paſſage &c.

THE noiſe that Pightland Firth makes among many who only have heard thereof as being noted and [...]nous for its Danger to Paſſengers,Concern⯑ing Pight⯑land Firth. and the Cauſes [...]ich concur to render it ſo, awakened us more par⯑ [...]ularly to enquire concerning it, which we had op⯑ [...]rtunity to do, in our Return from Zetland by Ork⯑ney [138] to Caithneſs. And therefore ſeeing we paſſed it in Voyage, I ſhall not altogether paſs it in this Narrati [...] but communicate to the Inquiſitive, what I kn [...] either from my own or others obſervation anent i [...]

Why ſo called.This Firth is commonly called Pictland, Pightland Penthland Firth, doubtleſs from the Picts whoſe Ki [...] ⯑dom of old Orkney was, divided by this Firth fr [...] the Continent of Scotland: Blaw in his Atlas or [...] ⯑graphy tells us of a certain Tradition, ſhewing how came firſt to be ſo Denominated, That the Picts o [...] time being Defeat by the Scots, who purſued Victory unto Caithneſs and Dungisby Head, where Vanquiſhed Remnant ſo hotly Purſued not judg [...] themſelves ſafe, were forced to take Boats and go o [...] the Firth to Orkney, but the Orkney Men conveen [...] upon the Alarm of their Landing, did ſo warmly [...] ⯑ceive them with a ſharp Conflict, that the Picts w [...] obliged to Retire, and take themſelves to their B [...] again, with which they going off, and not acquain [...] with the running of the Tides, they all Periſh [...] upon which ſad Cataſtrophe ſo Fatal to the Pictiſh [...] ⯑tion, this Firth ever ſince was called Pictland or Pi [...] ⯑land Firth. Buchanan calls it Penthland Firth, as it [...] commonly pronounced from one PENTHƲS, who this Penthus was, our Hiſtorian hath not b [...] pleaſed to impart unto us,Buch. Hiſt. l. 2. Nam Penthlandici montes fretum Penthlandicum a Pentho non a Picto compoſita vt poſſunt. Some Hiſtorians relate, That the Picts com [...] firſt out of Germany into Orkney, which they Inhabi [...] for a Seaſon, thence they paſſed over to Caithneſs [...] other parts of the North of Scotland, ſo that he [...] this Firth is called Pictland Firth.

The Firth is commonly ſaid to be 12 Miles bro [...] and I think they are but ſhort,Its breadth and what Coaſts it washeth. but this may be [...] ⯑bundantly compenſed by the danger of the paſſag [...] it is bounded on the North by the Iſles of Orkney, [...] on the South by Dungisby-head in Caithneſs, to Weſt is the Deucaledonian Ocean, whence the Fl [...] [139] comes; and to the Eaſt is the German Ocean, whence [...] Ebb runneth. The landing places are Burwick, [...] Southermoſt point of South-R [...]nal [...]ſha in Orkney, [...]d Dungiſby-head the northernmoſt in Caithneſs, John Grot [...] Houſe. called [...]o John Grotts Houſe, the Northermoſt Houſe in [...]tland, the Man who now liveth in it and keepeth [...]nn there is called John Grot, who ſaith this Houſe [...]h been in the poſſeſſion of his Predeceſſours of that [...]e for ſome Hundreds of Years, which na [...]e of [...] is frequent in Caithneſs, Upon the Sand by John [...]ots Houſe are found many ſmall pleaſant Buckies and [...]lls, beautified with diverſe Colours, which ſome [...] to put upon a ſtring as Beeds, and account much for their rarity. It is alſo obſerved of theſe ſhells,Varietates delectat. [...]t not one can be found altogether like another; And [...]on the review of the parcel I had, I diſcerned ſome [...]ference among them; which variety renders them [...] more beautiful.

In the Firth are the ſles of Swinna, Stroma and Pightland- [...]rries. The Iſles of Swinna, Pight⯑land Sker⯑ries and Stroma in the Firth. From Burwick to the Weſt-North-Weſt lyes [...]inna, one of the Iſles of Orkney, a little ſle where⯑ [...] are ſome Inhabitants, who have a good Fiſhing a⯑ [...]ut the Iſle, but often with great danger, not only cauſe it is in Pightland-Firth, where many Tides do [...] ▪ but becauſe of ſome dangerous Wells or Whirle⯑ [...]ols which are nigh unto it From Burwick about 5 [...] 6 Miles to South-Eaſt lyes Pightland Skerries, danger⯑ [...] to Seamen, theſe Skerries being in the mouth of [...] the Firth to the Eaſt, upon which both in Ebb and [...]od there goes a great Sea: therein is ſome good [...]a⯑ [...]re, but not Inhabited, ſave ſometimes in the Sum⯑ [...]er ſeaſon. In the Firth alſo is the Iſle of Stroma, little pleaſant Iſle, abounding with Corns, about a Mile [...]d an half long, and half a Mile broad, and tho it be in [...] Firth, yet it is not reckoned as one of the Iſles of Orkney, becauſe of its vicinity to Caithneſs, from which is but about 2 Miles diſ [...]ant, and this is the only Iſle [140] which belongs unto Caithneſs, and is ſtill under [...] Juriſdiction of the Lords of that Countrey.

Beſides the Iſles ſome Skerries.Beſides the Iſles there are alſo ſome Skerries, as [...] ⯑fore Burwick not half a Mile from Land there is o [...] ſeen at an Ebb, upon which about 3 Years ago w [...] caſt away a Ship belonging to Aberdeen, and all [...] Men in her, as they ſay, were loſt

Many Tides go here.Altho the Sea in this Firth floweth and ebbe twice in the 24 Hours, as it doth in other places, [...] there is a meeting of many Tides here, which runni [...] contrary one to another, cauſe that great rage and a [...] were a conflict of Waters, which is terrible to beho [...] and dangerous to engage with: What is the numb [...] of theſe Tides cannot well be con [...]eſcended upo [...] ſome ſay 13; others 18; and others 24. Blaw in [...] Geography hinteth at this, and the reaſon thereof, ſhe [...] ⯑ing that the Sea running among the Orkney Iſles, [...] thereby reſtrained, and made to go through the [...] as ſo many Water-ſpouts, which meeting in this Fi [...] render it ſo formidable and dangerous. But beca [...] of the pertinency and elegancy of the Hiſtorian, up [...] this head,Geogra. Elavi. de Freto Pent [...] ⯑landiae. I ſhall give his own Words: ‘Fret [...] hoc Navigantibus formidabile, neque niſi ſta [...] temporibus, quanquam poſitis ventis, trajectui o [...] portunum. Cauſa eſt cum aeſtus maris quotidie a ſe [...] tentrionibus incitetur in his locis Orchadas circu [...] fuſus iiſque imerfuſus, hic primum objectu terrar [...] coercetur, unde vis illa immenſa aquarum multis [...] nalibus inſulas illas permeans, dein reliquo mari [...] hoc Freto effuſa, luctantibus etiam maris Vergivii [...] Orientalis undis formidabiles aquarum Vortices cu [...] ſummo navium periculo creat.’ And indeed wh [...] we ſee the many impetuous Tides coming out into t [...] Firth, from among the Iſles of Orkney, each beari [...] that courſe to which they are determined, by the La [...] and Iſles they waſh and beat upon, we will not judge [...] ſtrange, that there ſhould be ſuch a meeting of Tides [...] this Firth; for, as ſome expreſs it, Every craig-lug [...] [141] makes a new Tide, and many Craigs and Lugs are there here.

Hence it is clear that the Tide will run with a great⯑er rapidity and force in ſome places then in others,The Tide ſtronger in ſome places then in others. as when we paſs that part of the Firth, where we meet with the Tide in the Ebb running off the ſides of Pight⯑land Skerries from South Eaſt, down into the Swelchie of Stroma, then the men moſt [...]ly their Oars and work hard, leſt they be born down into the Swelchie, a dan⯑gerous place. When alſo we are 3 or 4 Miles from Cathneſ [...]; there is another ſuch rapid current, comeing from the South of Dung-isbay Head out of Murray Firth running upon Stroma, both into the Swelchie on the North, and into the Merrie-men of Mey on the South end of the Iſle. In our paſſage through this Current, for half an hour, we made not, as we could obſerve, one foot of Way, tho there were 4 Men tug⯑ging at the Oars, and no wind blowing; and in all probability we had been carried down upon Stroma, if an able man a Paſſenger: had not taken ane Oar, ſo that then there were 3 Oars upon our Star-board ſide. Hence in ſome places there is a ſwift and in others a ſoft running Tide, which the Boat-men being well ac⯑quainted with, they will ſometimes reſt from their hard Labour and refreſh themſelves a little.

In our paſſage we ſee the Currents,We ſee the currents of the Tides. before we en⯑gage with them, running like the Torrents of ſome great Rivers, and in ſome places we will ſee the Wa⯑ters ſmooth, and rough round about; the Reaſon where⯑of I know not, if it be not becauſe of ſome Tides meeting there, and as it were for ſome time quieſcent in their Centre, ſomething like unto which I have ob⯑ſerved in the meeting of ſeveral Rivers in one place.

In the Firth are ſeveral places remarkable for their danger; As the Wells of Swinna, The Wells of Swinna dangerous [...] whereof ſome are on the Eaſt-ſide and others on the Weſt-ſide of the Iſle, they are like unto Whirle-Pooles turning about with ſuch a violence, that if any Boat come nigh unto them, [142] they will ſuck or draw it in,The Wells of Swinna are Trocht adiustar à puero ſ [...]age [...] agitat [...] Geogra. Blaevi. and then turneth it abou [...] until it be ſwallowed up: but theſe Wells are onl [...] dangerous in a Calm, and Sea-men or Fiſhers to pr [...] ⯑vent their danger thereby, uſe when they come nea [...] them to caſt in an Oar, Barrel or ſuch like thing, o [...] which the Wells cloſing, they ſafely paſs over. Th [...] Miniſter of the place told me, that about 20 years agoe there were two Fiſher-boats there, who coming nig [...] the Wells, the Men in the one Boat ſeing their dan⯑ger, one of theſe men thus afraid took hold of th [...] other Boat by them, and both Boats were ſwallowed up. One of the Miniſters of Zetland told me, ther [...] were three of theſe Boats, it ſo falling out, that h [...] paſſed the Firth the very day after they periſhed: Ye [...] notwithſtanding of theſe dangers, the Fiſhers will no deſiſt from fiſhing about theſe Wells, for they obſerv [...] the nearer they come to them, they have the Fiſhe [...] both greater, better and more numerous, ſo the Fiſh⯑es draw the Men, and the Wells draw both.

Near to theſe Skerries, before Barwick formerly mentioned, are alſo 2 or 3 Wells, called the Wells o [...] Tiftala, And of Tiftala only dangerous in a Flood as the Wells of Swin⯑na are in an Ebb, theſe Wells, as ſome do judge ar [...] cauſed by an Hiatus or Ga [...] in the Earth below: Further I would offer this conſideration, that whereas all theſe Wells are nigh unto ragged Rocks, con⯑ſtantly beat upon by the Tides, there may be ſome ſecre [...] conveyances of the Water into Cavernes at the bottom of the Rock, from which they may paſs into ſome other places, where they riſe again, and that even in the ſame Firth, tho ſuch places be unknown, as it is ſtoried of many Rivers,How they come to whirle and be ſo dan⯑gerous. which fall into, and run many Miles below the Earth and come out again in other places. But that which I judge to be more ſimple, is that ſeveral Tides running upon the Rocks, and thence returning and meeting with other Tides cauſe ſuch a Whirle, as we ſee behind Mill-wheels ſome of the water coming from, and another part as it were appear⯑ing [143] to return upon the Wheel, which cauſe ſuch a Whirle, and no more doth the whirles in the Firth re⯑ [...]uire a Hiatus in the Earth or a ſubterraneous paſſage, [...]h [...]n the whirles in the Mills water courſes: As for [...]heir ſwallowing up of Boats which are no more ſeen, this doth not prove it, for theſe Boats may be broken beneath the water upon Rocks or the like, and the broken timber go to the Sea, of which there is enough [...]ound caſt a ſhoar upon theſe Iſles. But many things of [...]his nature are hidden to us, and we can only give our Conjectures anent them.

There is alſo in this Firth the Swelchie of Stroma, a very dangerous place at the North end of the Iſle of Stroma, Swelchie of Sroma. where there is a meeting of ſeveral Tides which cauſeth the Water to rage and make a dreadful noiſe, heard at ſome diſtance; As likewiſe the Sea-billows are [...]raiſed high, and appear white and frothy very terrible to behold, eſpecially if any ſtorm be lying on, falling unto which all Paſſengers carefully labour to avoid; As a Gentleman related to me, that once he was in great danger, the Seamen giving themſelves over for loſt, tho three Miles from the Swelchie, and that in a dead calm, when within 2 or 3 pair of Butts to Stroma, and tho ſo near Land, they had been carried down in⯑to and periſhed by this Swelchie, as they all laid their accounts; if the Lord had not ſpeedily cauſed a Nor⯑thern wind to blow, whereby they got hold of Stroma.

There is another dangerous place at the South end of this Iſle of Stroma, Merry men of Mey. where alſo a great conflict of Wa⯑ters, called the Merry men of Mey, ſo called from the houſe of Mey a Gentleman's dwelling in Caithneſs, op⯑poſite to this Iſle, and called Merry men becauſe of the leaping and danceing as it were, of the waters there, tho Mirth and Danceing be far from the minds of the Sea⯑men and Paſſengers who ſhall be ſo unhappy as to fall in among them, eſpecially when any Sea is going.

Seing from what hath been ſaid this Firth is ſovery dangerous to paſs, no wonder that the Mariners and [144] others be very careful to lay hold on the fitteſt occaſio [...] for a ſafe Paſſage,Seamen obſerve the Tide in going over. which they find to be a little befo [...] the turning of the Tide, when it is beginning to E [...] on the Shoare, but the Flood is yet running in the Se [...] then they uſe to go off, that ſo when they are or nigh unto the middle of the Firth, the Tide ma [...] be upon the turn, which cauſeth for ſome time, a ſt [...] and quiet Sea, (as to the running of the Tides) a [...] the Seamen are not ſo put to it, in wreſtling eith [...] againſt Flood or Ebb. Buchanan ſpeaking of the Seas, and the rapid Tides, elegantly expreſſeth him⯑ſelf, Duae ſunt Tempeſtates quibus hae anguſtiae ſunt ſupera [...] les, aut cum aeſtuum relapſu ceſſante undarum conflictu, ma [...] tranquillatur, aut ub [...] pleno alveo aequot ad ſummum incr [...] ⯑menti pervenit, langueſcente utrinque vi illa, quae undas co [...] citabat, veluti receptui, canente Oceano procellis & vo [...] ceſis pelagi commoti molibus ſe velut in ſua Caſtra recipie [...] tibus.

What wind moſt avourableAny Wind, they obſerve, will take them over fro [...] Burwick to Caithneſs, if tided Right, and the Win [...] not in S. Weſt, or nigh to that point, and ſo fro [...] Caithneſs to Burwick, if not in N. Eaſt or nigh to it. B [...] the N. Weſt Wind they call the King of the Firth, n [...] only I judge becauſe it will both take them from Caith⯑neſs to Orkney, and from Orkney to Caithneſs, but all becauſe if it blow any thing, it keepeth them up in a Ebb, from falling into the Wells of Swinna, the Swelchie of Stroma, and the Merry Men of Mey. By Tidin [...] right alſo they can come over by the help of Oars, th [...] there be no Wind: And at any time tho they obſerv [...] not the Tide, they can paſs from Orkney to Caithneſs if it blow a good Gale from N. Eaſt, and ſo fro [...] Caithneſs to Orkney, if the like blow from S. Weſ [...] The Boatmen who uſe to paſs the Firth, from their ex⯑perience know it beſt, and can avoid the ſwell of Sea, when perſons of greater skill cannot do it.

No An⯑choring.At no time is there any Anchoring in this Firth, ſo if any through Ignorance or otherwiſe attempt it, with [145] [...] a little time, they muſt either cut their Cables, as [...]me have done, and be gone, or elſe if their Anchors [...] Cables break not, they will be Ridden under: [...]he Experience whereof one of our S [...]ips lately had, [...]h [...] caſting Anchor even in the Mouth of the Firth, [...]ere the Tides are not ſo ſtrong, their Anchor with⯑ [...] a little time brake, and they behoved to go to [...]a.

In a ſtorm eſpecially if it blow from S, Eaſt. (which,The Firth terrible in a ſtorm. [...]ey lay, in the Firth cauſeth the greateſt Sea,) and the [...]ide be running in the Winds Eye, the Roaring and [...]welling Waves are very Terrible, and mount ſo [...]gh, that they could waſh not only the Deck, but [...]e Sails and Topmaſts of the biggeſt Ships.

The Houſe of Mey formerly mentioned is a Myth, [...]gn or Mark much obſerved by Saillers in their paſ⯑ [...]ng through this Firth between Caithneſs and Stroma, The houſe of Mey a myth to Seamen. [...]r they carefully fix their Eyes upon the Lums or [...]himney Heads of this Houſe, which if they loſe ſight [...], then they are too near Caithneſs, and ſo ready to run [...]on Sand-Banks, but if they get alſo ſight of the [...]oule, then they are too near Stroma, and ſo may [...]lect upon the Rocks, which ly off the South end of [...]roma.

Hence we ſee, They who go down to the Sea in ſhips, Obſerve. [...]d do buſineſs in the great waters, theſe ſ [...] the works of the [...]d, and his Wonders in the Depths; That He is a God [...]or [...]us in Holineſs, Fearful in Praiſes, Doing Wonders; [...]e cauſeth the Wind to blow, and the Sea to flow, at his [...]eaſure; Bounding the impetuous Tides with the Rocks and [...]nd, ſaying, Hitherto ſhall ye come, and no further; and [...]e ſhall your proud Waves be ſtayed, which the they roar [...]t ſhall they not prevail. His Goodneſs, and Power, [...]rting a Reſtraint upon them; His Wiſdom, and [...]ounſel, directing their turning and returning, for his [...]wn Glorious Ends. Glory, to His Name.

CHAP. XI. Concerning Caithneſs, and what we found be moſt Remarkable there.

MY Diſcourſe upon Orkney and Zetland being e [...] ⯑tended, beyond what either was intended expected.Concern⯑ing Caith⯑neſs. I ſhall therefore ſtudy to be the brie [...] upon Caithneſs, as likewiſe ſeeing it is ſuppoſable, th [...] it may be better known then any of the former, being upon the ſame Continent with us. What th [...] is to be ſaid thereupon, I ſhall diſpatch and ſum up [...] this one Chapter.

Caithneſs is the Northernmoſt Province or Shire [...] Scotland, Its Situa⯑tion. having Pightland Firth, whereby it is divid [...] from Orkney on the North, the Entry to Murray Fir [...] on the Eaſt, Sutherland and Stranaver on the South, at the Deucatedonian Ocean on the Weſt. It is from th [...] high Hill called the Ord of Caithneſs, toward the South whereby it is divided from Sutherland, to Dungish Head, about 30 Miles long, and from Thurſo on th [...] Weſt ſide to Wick on the Eaſt ſide of the Countrey [...] Miles broad.

As we were much in the dark about the Etymol [...] ⯑gy of Orkney and Zetland, The rea⯑ſon of the Name. ſo no leſs are we here i [...] that of Caithneſs, upon which Blaw in his Geograph [...] giveth us this Notandum, "That many Names [...] "places are ſomething ſtrange, whoſe Original ſeem t [...] be neither Scotiſh, Iriſh, Daniſh or Norvegian, But u [...] "known uncertain, and moſt Ancient: Such as O [...] biſter, Loyibster, Robaster, Trumbuster, and Innumerabl [...] others,Blavi. Ge⯑ogra in Caith. Caterum Not, Multa locorum Nomina peregrinu [...] quid ſapere, quorum origo neque Scoticum, Hibernicum Danicum aut Norvegicum quid referant, ſed ignotae, incert [...] & vetustiſſimae originis videntur Qualia ſunt Orbiſte [...] Lovibſter, Roboſter, Trumbuſter, & innumera ali [...] And ſeeing ſuch Examples of Names which are of a [...] unknown Original, as are given by the Hiſtorian, d [...] [147] [...] end in ſter, I would add that the moſt of the Names [...] places in this Countrey do end in ſter, or ſtar, and go. [...] between 20 and 30 in ster or ſtar, and about 20 in [...] as my Informer, who had been for ſome time in [...]e Countrey did reckon them. Of old Sutherland, [...]th the ſame Geographer, was called Cattey, and its [...]habitants Catteigh, and ſo likewiſe was Caithneſs and [...]anaver; And in the Iriſh Sutherland to this day is [...]lled Catey, and its Inhabitants Catigh; So that Cattey⯑ [...]ſs, is no other then the Promontory or Cape of the [...]tes or Sutherland, which Promontory is ſtretched [...]t from the Eaſt (or rather the North) ſide, ſaith [...]t Geographer of the Mountain of the Ord, Blavi. Geogra. Adeo ut [...]tey-neſs nihil aliud, ſit quam Promontorium Cattae ſeu [...]therlandiae, quod Promontorium a latere Ortentali montis [...]di praetenditur. Theſe Cattaei are thought to be a Peo⯑ [...]e who arrived thither from Germany. Who would [...]ve more of this may conſult the abovementioned [...]uthor. Buchanan will have it to be called Caithneſs [...]ecauſe of its being Mountainous, but I know not if [...]s Reaſon will hold, for the Countries adjacent of [...]herland and Stranaver are more Mountainous, and [...]ere are few high Hills or Mountains in it, except [...]t the South end thereof, where it borders with Suther⯑ [...]nd, but if it ſhould be ſo called becauſe it is the Neſs [...]r Promontory of the Mountains, the Land by North [...]eſe Mountains falling lower and running out in a [...]romontory into the Sea, I Judge it would hold bet⯑ [...]er, and be ſaid with greater reaſon. Boethius alſo ſaith [...]at this Countrey of old was called Cornana, but the [...]eaſon thereof he giveth not.

The Earls of Caithneſs were among the Ancienteſt [...] Scotland, The Earl of Caith⯑neſs. and in former times have been very potent in [...]his Corner, as appears by the ſeveral old Caſtles and [...]laces of Strength, which then they were in Poſſeſſion [...]f, but now their Memory is almoſt extinct. The [...]te Earl George dying without Iſſue, the Laird of Glen⯑ [...]chy, now Earl of Braid-Atbin Married the Dowager, [148] who having Purchaſt the Earl's Eſtate, the [...] parent Heir judging himſelf thereb [...] injured, [...] gather together ſome of the Countrey People recover his Right, but was Defeat by G [...]n [...]c From the Feild they went to the Bar, and Debated [...] Matter there, whereupon the Lords gave forth t [...] Sentence, that Glenorchy ſhould enjoy the Eſtate, [...] the Heir ſhould have the Honours, and an Alim [...] allowed him by Glenorchy during his Life. The H [...] having died about a Year ago, the Heireſs his Siſ [...] Succeeds to the Honours, and is in a very mean Con [...] ⯑tion; living in a place where the former Earls uſed keep their H [...]ucks. So to this Ancient and Hono [...] ⯑able Family of the Earls of Caithneſs there is almo [...] put in Holy Providence a Period and Cloſe: Th [...] who had four great Houſes in this Countrey like P [...] ⯑laces, for Pleaſure and Convenience, and Caſtles f [...] Strength, now in their Heirs enjoy none of them, th [...] are Ruinous, and one is Poſſeſſed by a Stranger: [...] likewiſe there are ſeveral other Ruinous Houſes to [...] ſeen here, who have ſpewed out their Poſſeſſours, [...] confirming that common Obſervation, ‘That ſ [...] committed by the Inhabitants, is as Gun-Powder lai [...] to the Foundations of their Houſes, which quickl [...] overturneth them, when it pleaſeth a Righteous Go [...] to fire the Train.’

The late Earls of the Name of Sinclar.The late Earls of Caithneſs were of the Name o [...] Sinclar, of which Name alſo are many Gentlemen o [...] the Countrey, who have bought conſiderable parts o [...] the Earl's Eſtate, from the Earl of Braid-Albin: Be⯑fore the Sinclars, the Earls were of the Name o [...] Shine, and befor them were the Haralds, and before the Haralds were the Ola's, as the Tradition goeth [...] concerning which and the manner of their Succeſſio [...] and the Interruption made therein, the Countrey talk ſeveral things which I ſhall not trouble my Reade [...] with: Only I ſhall obſerve what is related by Camb⯑den a Judicious Antiquary, ‘That of old the Earls of [149] Caithneſs were the ſame with the Earls of Orkney but at length were divided, the Eldeſt Daughter of one Muliſius being given in Marriage to William de S. Claro vulgo Seincler the Kings Pautler, his Poſterity had this Honour conferred on them, of being Earls of Caithneſs.’

The Country is pleaſant and very Fertile,The Coun⯑trey a⯑bounds with Graſs Corn, [...]at⯑tel, Fishes ſo that here the cheapeſt Market it the World abound⯑ing with Graſs and Corn, hence Yearly there is a great quantity of Victual Exported, as An. 169 [...]. there were 16000 Bolls Embarked and taken out, for which end it is much frequented by Barks from the Firth, Clyde and other places; for ordinarly when there is no ſcar⯑city or dearth, the Meal is ſold here at 3 or 4 or at moſt 5 Merks per Boll. The Cattel and Fiſhes alſo are to be had very cheap, as good Kine often in the Sham⯑bles ſuch as the Countrey doth afford, for 3 or 4 ſhal. ſterl. and ſometimes they ſay, for 2; ſo that, as I have heard, ſome of the more intelligent Inhabitants obſerve that here is the cheapeſt Market in the World: And the Gentlemen can live better upon 1000 Merks,Gentle⯑men live well. then they can do in the South upon 4000. per annum. Who may Improve their Stocks to as great if not a greater Advantage, than in any other place in Scotland, for they may ſave their Rents, having within themſelves what Proviſion is neceſſary for their Table, and may ſell much Store every Year, what to the Inhabitants in the Countrey for their own uſe, or for ſalting and ſending Abroad, and what to Drovers who take them South: And it is obſervable that if any Buy a piece of Land, only what is Arable is Accounted for, as for what ſerveth for Paſture, they uſe not to take nottice of, tho upon that conſideration they may value their Acres at a greater Rate. In the way between Thur⯑ſo and Dunnot, we ſaw much low Ground overblown with ſand, for two Miles back from the Sea, which formerly not many Years ſince was a pleaſant Mea⯑dow.

[150] Ten Pa⯑rishes [...]here.There are 10. Pariſhes in this Countrey, 5. of which can be ſerved with Miniſters not having the Iriſh Lan⯑guage, few of the People there ſpeaking it, but th [...] other five cannot be ſupplied otherwiſe then by Mi⯑niſters underſtanding Iriſh; in ſome of theſe Pariſhe [...] there being very few who have any knowledge of ou [...] Language,Many ſpeak Irish. and ſome of the Miniſters are obliged t [...] preach both in Engliſh and Iriſh for the Edification of all: ſome of the Pariſhes are very wide and populous which tends to the Increaſe of Ignorance among many, the Miniſters not being able to overtake thei [...] Work; ſome Churches alſo are ruinous, for when He [...] ⯑ritours are not freinds to the Work of God, or cannot agree among themſelves, as to the concerting of ſuit⯑able Meaſures, for putting or keeping things which concern the Pariſh, in order; it uſeth to go ill with Miniſters as to their external Accomodation and with Churches as to their Repair.

The prin⯑cipal Towns.The two principal Towns in the Countrey are Wick and Thurſo, Wick is a Royal Burgh, on the Eaſt-ſide of the Countrey waſhen by the German Ocean at the Mouth of Murray Firth, by the ſide of which run⯑neth a ſmall River, at the mouth of the River there is a Harbour for Boats or Barks to ly in, which they come into at full Sea, but this Harbour is not ſo much frequen⯑ted, as another about a Mile to the North-Eaſt of Wick where they Judge the Boats do ly ſafer. Oppoſite to Wick lyes Thurſo at 12. Miles diſtance, on the Weſt-ſide of the Countrey, which tho it enjoy not the privi⯑ledge of a Royal Burgh, yet it is more populous then Wick, and hath better buildings in it, by the Eaſt-ſide of the Town runneth a ſmall River called the Water of Thurſo: In the Water of Thurſo many good Sal⯑mond tak⯑en and how. They have the beſt Church in the Countrey well furniſhed and kept in good order.

In the Water of Thurſo there is good Salmond-Fi⯑ſhing, which they take two ways, one is by Crues or Creels with croſſed or barred doors going from the one ſide of the Water to the other, ſo framed that they [151] ſuffer the Fiſhes to go in, but not to go out, out of which ſometimes they will take ſeveral Horſes burdens of Fiſh. The other way they take them is by a Net; where with they Fiſh a Pool, which lyeth a little be⯑low the Crues, and is about a pair of buts in length: They having ſpread the net upon the bank, which is long enough to reach the breadth of the Water, they go in with it, and one Man on each ſide drawing it down the Pool, it is followed with 18. or 20. Men. going in a breaſt behind it, with long ſtaves or Poles in their hands; wherewith they keep the net to the ground, and looſe it when any way entangled; the Pool in ſome places will riſe to the height of the breaſts of the wa⯑ders, but there is no danger. So they bring down the Net ſoftly and warily to the mouth of an Enclo⯑ſure, which they call a Stem, into which the Fiſhes are driven, where the Fiſhers ſtanding with this larger Net, others take a leſſer Net and going therewith into the Stem, catch the Fiſhes ſo encloſed, that ſcarce one can eſcape, for up the Water they cannot run, becauſe of the larger Net, and neither down can they go, be⯑cauſe of the Stem, or Stones laid together in form of a Wall, We ſaw as we could conjecture at one draught upwards of 300. good Salmonds taken, and theſe who have this Fiſhing told us that 3 Years ago, they took 500. at a draught, and going through the Pool at the ſame time with the Net again, they catched other 200, which Salmond for the moſt part they ſalt in barrels and ſends abroad. It is alſo to be obſerved that the Salmond keep this Water of Thurſo all the Year over, and in the Winter Seaſon in Froſt and Snow if you break the ice, they are to be had. The Pool is but about half a Mile up the Water from Thurſo.

There are ſeveral Waters or Rivers in the Coun⯑trey as Thurſo, Wick, Dumbeth, Rice, Force, Several Waters here. and Bera⯑del, but they are all ſmall, and indeed there is no great River all the way from Caïthneſs till we come to Neſs running by Inverneſs in Murray, over which is a ſtrong [152] Bridge lately built conſiſting of 7. Arches, which Rive [...] is remarkable for this that it never freezeth, tho th [...] froſt be moſt vehement yea if then vow bring a Horſe unto the River,The River of Neſs. the iceacles will melt at his feet in th [...] ſpace of time that he is drinking, the River cometh from a Loch called Lochneſs, which alſo hath the ſame property, 4. or 5. Miles to the Weſt of Inverneſs, Thi [...] River I make mention of tho not it Caithneſs, it being the firſt conſiderable one, having any thing of a ſtrong and regular Bridge, which we paſſed in our return.

Some Trees.There are ſome Trees here, but they are not ſo big as theſe which are further South, even in Sutherland▪ particularly upon the Water of Beradel there is a plea⯑ſant ſtrath full of ſmall wood. And there is a Garden 3. or 4. Miles to the South-Weſt of Thurſo very plea⯑ſant and well furniſhed with fruit Trees, much com⯑mended by the Inhabitants.

Rocks much fre⯑quented by Fowls.The Rocks by the Coaſts are much frequented by Fowls of various kinds, as Eagles, Hawks &c. ſuch as in Orkney and Zetland, of which Rocks there are long tracts for whereas in Sutherland, Roſ [...], and Murray, the Sea for the moſt part is bound [...]d with the ſand, here it is bounded with the Rocks, which it waſheth and beat⯑eth on, and that almoſt round Caithneſs from the Ord [...] to Dungisbey Head on the Eaſt, and ſo by Dunnot Head, and Hoburn Head to Stranaver on the Weſt, except a few Creeks or Bays, ſeveral of which are very conve⯑nient for Anchoring; eſpecially in Screbiſter Bay, a little to the North Weſt of Thurſo, there is good Anchoring ground where Ships may ſafely ride without the fear of hazard by Wind or Tide, the Capes of Land there making a ſtill Sea, and defending the Ships, which as it were, flee into their Arms from raging and angry Pightland Firth: There are here alſo ſome Rocks, lying a little off the Land, from which they are broken and dis⯑joyned which they call Clets. the ſame with the Holms in Orkney and Zetland, theſe Clets are almoſt covered with Sea-Fowls. One way they take theſe Fowls is [153] pleaſant tho with great danger, They take a Line,One way they take the Fowls▪ [...]on the end of which they faſten ſome Fiſh-Hooks, [...]ove the hooks there is alſo a Pock faſtened, and ſo from [...]e top of the Rock they let down the Line thus fur⯑ [...]ſhed with Pock and hooks, ſtriking the heads of the [...]oung Fowls in their Neſts with the Pock, upon which [...]e Fowls do all gape and cry; as if it were their Dame [...]oming with meat to them, and ſo lifting the Line they [...]t the hooks fall into their mouths, which taking hold the Fowls, they become their prey.

There are likewiſe ſeveral Caves going from the [...]a within the Rocks,Caves. in which the waves make a [...]eadful noiſe, ſuch Caves we had occaſion to take no⯑ [...]e of in our diſcourſe upon Orkney and Zetland.

Eſpecially there is a kind of Fowls called Snowflects which reſort to this Countrey in great numbers in Fe⯑ [...]nary; they are about the bigneſs of a Sparrow,Fowls called Snow⯑flects. but ex⯑ [...]eding fat and delicious; they flee in flocks, thouſands [...] them together, many of which the Inhabitants do [...]ll and make uſe of. They uſe to go away in April [...]d are thought to come from the Weſt Highlands. [...]hey have alſo a great plenty of Moorfowls, Plovers, [...] much if not more then in any place of Scotland.

The induſtry of the Gentlemen here is to be much [...]ommended for altho from Wick to Dumbeth which is [...] Miles long, there be no Harbour or Bay,The Gent⯑lement's Induſtry commen⯑dable. but a con⯑ [...]nued tract of ragged, hard and Iron-like Rocks waſh⯑ [...] by the Sea, yet there are ſeveral Harbours forced [...]here by Art, tho denied by Nature, and paſſages in ma⯑ny places like ſteps of ſtairs made from the top of the [...]ock to the bottom, where their Fiſh-Boats do ly, and [...]y theſe paſſages do bring their Fiſhes up to the top of [...]e Rocks, where they ſalt and dry them in Houſes [...]ade for the purpoſe, whereby great gain doth redound [...] the Owners, ſome making as much by their Fiſhes, [...] they do by their Land-Rent.

As in Orkney and Zetland there were ſeveral old [...]happels, which the ſuperſtitious Zealots did frequent,Superſti⯑tions. [154] ſo is it likewiſe in Caithneſs, the Miniſters told me the is one in Dunnot Pariſh, beſide which there are abo [...] 60. Heaps of Stones, which the People coming to, ta [...] with them a Stone and throw it into the Heap, bo [...] ⯑ing themſelves alſo thereunto. Nigh to it likewiſe there is a Loch called St. John's Loch, concerning which there goes a fabulous Tradition, that on St. Stephen Day there was a pleaſant Meadow in that place, whe [...] now the Loch is, and on St. John's Day therafter, was turned into this Loch. There is alſo another i [...] the Pariſh of Rhae, to which ſome do take their Chil⯑dren if they be in diſtreſs, and make 2 Graves at th [...] ſide of one another laying the Child between them and ſo they trie if the Child will recover, but the wa [...] how they know;Tales ſu⯑perſti⯑tiones lu⯑dicras re⯑citate eſt refutare. I forbear to mention. But they ſa [...] there is a Chappel in the Pariſh of Konnesbie the Nor⯑thermoſt Pariſh of all this Countrey, oppoſite to Ork⯑ney, which is yet more frequented then any of the for⯑mer, which ſome wildly ſuperſtitious frequent on ſom [...] Day about Candlemaſs, going about it on their bar [...] knees, and thence going to a Water, they caſt ſome [...] it in handfuls over their heads, and from the Water t [...] an Alehouſe, where they uſe to fill themſelves drunk▪ And when going to theſe or at them they can ſcarce even tho threatened be prevailed with to ſpeak. T [...] which helliſh Rites ſome are ſo addicted that the Mini⯑ſters judge it next to impoſſible, to get them weane [...] and brought there from: But the vigilancy and pains o [...] Miniſters eſpecially of late, hath through the Bleſſing o [...] God not been altogether without ſucceſs. Which ol [...] Chappels both here and in Orkney and Zetland, I think the Government ſhould cauſe to be raſed, which might prove as the taking away of the Neſt Egg.

The Houſe of Thurſo by Eaſt.The Earls of Caithneſs, as hinted at before, had ſeve⯑ral ſtrong and convenient dwellings. One about a ſhort [...] half Mile from Thurſo, called Thurſo by Eaſt, now rui⯑nous, it hath been built in the form of a Court, and the Gates have been decored with cut ſtone Work, and [155] the Gardens, Avenues and office Houſes have been [...]nform to the ſplendour of the Houſe. An honeſt Countrey Man obſerving the many great ſins that had been committed about that Houſe, is ſaid to have pre⯑ [...]cted to one of the late Earls its ruine and deſolation, ſaying, "That the Cup of ſin was filling, and this Houſe would ſhortly become a den of Dragons (uſing the Scripture phraſe) and ſeeing there are no ſuch Crea⯑tures among us, it ſhall be of Foxes: And according⯑ [...] it was obſerved that a Fox haunted it when ruinous few Years after, which ſtayed there till about 9. or 10 Years ago, when a part of the Houſe was repaired. This I had from one of the Miniſters of the Countrey; and another Miniſter told me that before he bore this character, he frequently ſhot Rabbets there, within the Walls of the Houſe.

There are alſo other four Caſtles upon one Bay;Caſtle Sin⯑clar and Girnego. on [...]e Eaſt ſide of the Countrey nigh to Wick, which be⯑longed to theſe Earls. The Bay is called Rice-Bay, and [...]2 or 3 Miles broad, the entry whereof is to the Eaſt, [...]t dangerous for Ships to come into, becauſe of the many blind Rocks that ly therein, upon the South ſide of the Bay next to Wick have been 2 ſtrong Caſtles, [...]ined to one another by a Draw-Bridge, called Caſtle [...]inclar and Girnego, the former hath been the ſtrongeſt Houſe, but the latter they ordinarly had their dwelling in; their ſituation is upon a Rock disjoined from the Land, [...]vironed for the moſt part with the Sea, to which Caſtles from the Land they paſſed alſo by a Bridge which was drawn up every night, whence there was no acceſs to them. I found the year of God upon the Lintel of a window in Caſtle-Sinclar to be 1607; which hath been [...]e year wherein this Caſtle was built, or at leaſt re⯑paired. Some account theſe two Caſtles to be but one, becauſe of their vicinity. They ſay, there was much [...] committed here, as Drunkenneſs, Uncleanneſs, &c. [...]or which, a Righteous God hath turned them, into a [...]ainous heap. Oppoſite to Castle Sinclar, and Girnego, [156] on the other ſide of the Bay is Kice another Caſtle,Caſtles of Kice Be⯑radel. and Hakergil. alſo ruinous. On the Weſt ſide of the Bay is the Ca [...] of Hakergil, a ſtrong houſe at preſent poſſeſſed by Gentleman, who hath a great intereſt in the Counti [...] but is not deſcended of the Family of Caithneſs. Th [...] are alſo the ruines of the old Caſtle of Beradel to be ſe [...] ſituated on a Rock near to the Sea, at the Mouth of River of that name, to which alſo they have paſs from the Land by a Draw-bridge: Such naturally ſtro [...] ▪ Situations for their Houſes they ſought out of old, t [...] they might be the more ſecure, and ſafe from all v [...] ⯑lence, Nature as well as Art contributing to their for⯑tification.

A Bishop Murdered of old.About a ſhort half Mile to the Weſt of Thuiſo a [...] the ruines of an old Caſtle, where the Biſhop in the times of Popery is ſaid to have had his Reſidence, par⯑ticularly there was one Adam ſaid to b [...] the laſt Biſhop who lived in that houſe, who having greatly oppre [...] ⯑ed the People by his rigorous exacting of the Tith [...] the People complained thereof to the Earl, who ſaid in paſſion to have Anſwered them, Go and ſee [...] him, and Sup him too if you pleaſe, Whereupon they we [...] to the Biſhops Lodging, and apprehended him, a [...] ſetting his houſe on Fire, they actually boiled hi [...] and ſupped off the Broth: Which being known, [...] ⯑quiry was made for the barbarous Actours of this Tra⯑gedy; and they being apprehended were put to death ſo ſuffering condign puniſhment for this horrid Villa⯑ny. And this Earl is not the only great Perſon who hath given forth an inconſiderate ſentence, upon which barbarous and inhumane Actions have enſued. Bu⯑chanan writeth this to have been about the year 122 [...] in the days of Alexand. 2d. King of Scots; and ſaith only ‘That they having killed the Monk who attended his and his Servant,Buchan. Hiſt. in vitam Alex. 2. they wounded himſelf, and draw⯑ing him to the Kitchin, they ſet the houſe on Fire about him.’ A little to the Weſt of this, is the houſe of Screbiſter the reſidence of the late Biſhops [157] where I think their Lordſhips had but a mean acco⯑modation; The Revenues of the Biſhoprick here are among the ſmalleſt in Scotland, The Re⯑venues of the Bi⯑shoprick ſmall. which they report thus came to paſs, One of the Biſhops at the Refor⯑mation ſold the Churches Revenues far below their va⯑lue [ſome ſay at 13 ſhill. Scot [...]per Boll] to the Earl know⯑ing that but for a ſhort time he could enjoy the ſame.

There is a Hill in the Pariſh of Wick called Stony-hill the Reaſon of which denomination is ſaid to be this;Stony Hill. In the days of William King of Scots 1199, as Buchan: hath it, there was one Harald Earl of Orkney and Caith⯑neſs who being offended at the Biſhop, as having inſi⯑nuared ſomething to the King againſt him, apprehen⯑ded the Biſhop, cutting out his Tongue and putting out his Eyes, which being repreſented to the King, he ſent his Forces into Caithneſs and having defeat the Earl, in ſeveral Engagements, the Earl fleeing was purſued and being apprehended, his eyes were firſt put out, and then he was hanged, and all his Male Children were emaſculated upon this Hill, which ever ſince hath been called Stony-hill.

They told us,Several Stones ſet ſet up for Monu⯑ments. there are ſeveral high great Stones ſet up through the Countrey and that ordinarily on Hills, about which are the Rubbiſh of other Stones, which have ſerved for ſome end there, and probably have been places of Pagan Worſhip, as we obſerved upon Orkney, in the Pariſh of Bower, as we paſſed, we ſaw an Artificial Mount ditched about of a ſmall cir⯑cumference, it is like for the ſame purpoſe. They have likewiſe the Tradition of ſome Picts houſes, which have been here of old, the rubbiſh wherof is yet to be ſeen in the Pariſh of Latheran, as a Gentle⯑man well acquainted with the Countrey did inform me.

In the Pariſh of Latheran we ſaw the Foundation of a Houſe ſaid to be laid by a Baſtard Son of the Earl of Caithneſs, but never perfected;Founda⯑tion of a Houſe laid but not perfected. it is founded upon a riſing ground nigh to the Sea, where there is a fair proſpect of Murray, where it is reported the Gentle⯑man had his Miſtreſs, who intended to build it there, [158] that ſo ſhe might have a view of the houſe from Mu [...] ⯑ray, and he at the Houſe might ſee Murray.

Dunnot Head. Dunnot Head ſtretching out into Pightland Firt [...] is about a Mile in breadth, and 7 Miles in circumf [...] ⯑rence, in it are ſeveral Lochs, and ſome good paſtu [...] for Cattel, but no Inhabitants, in it are to be ha [...] good Mill-ſtones, and it is thought there is a Lead Mine there. In ſeveral places in the pariſh of Dunn [...] there will no Ratts live, and if Earth be brought ou [...] thence to other places moleſted by them, they will b [...] quickly gone.

The Ord of Caith⯑neſs.The Ord which divideth Caithneſs from Sutherland is a high Mountain, as the name Ord, which in Iriſ [...] ſignifieth an height, doth imply; down which ou [...] way from Caithneſs to Sutherland doth ly, the Road i [...] but narrow, and the deſcent ſteep, and if any ſtumble thereupon, they are in hazard of falling down a preci⯑pice into the Sea at the bottom of the Rock which is is very terrible to behold, but who paſs it for the more ſecurity uſe to lead their Horſes to the foot of the Hill, which is about a ſhort Mile in length; and no other way there is from Sutherland to Caithneſs, or from Caith⯑neſs to Sutherland but this, except we go 12 Miles about, but it might be made broader and ſafer with ſmall expence.

Signs of Rain and drought.It is obſerved in Caithneſs as an infallible ſign almoſt when they ſee a Miſt or Cloud, lying down upon the foot of the Hills, that then a drought will follow; but if ſuch a Miſt or Cloud be on the top thereof, they thence certainly conclude there will be Rain that day.A Loch, wherein is a Houſe, built by Robbers.

In the Pariſh of Halkirk there is a Loch [as there are ſeveral Lochs in the Countrey] within which Loch are the ruines of an old houſe built, they ſay, by Robbers, that they might be the more ſafe and ſe⯑cure from the fears of being apprehended. That which is moſt obſervable concerning this Houſe, is that there is not one foot of more ground, then what is within [159] the circumference of the Foundation, and upon which it ſtandeth, hence either the Water of the Loch hath waſhen away the prominent Rock, if there hath been any through waſting time, or if there was no part of the Rock without the circumference of the Foundation, it is wonderful to conſider, how ſo nigh to the water the Foundation hath been got laid, the Water about the Houſe being of a conſiderable depth, and the Ex⯑treme parts of the Rock upon which the Foundation ſtandeth, not to give way and fail under the weight of the building, which thoſe who have ſeen this Houſe, are ſurpriſed at. Upon the Loch they have Boats which come cloſs to the Walls of the Houſe, for the taking of Fowls of divers kinds, as Maws, Herons &c. ſeve⯑ral thouſands of which do frequent it, having their Neſts in the ruinous Walls.