LETTER I.

I Make no doubt but you have long imagined that all our projected Schemes and plans of a Voyage to Sweden and a Lapland Journey, would come to nothing, and like Shakeſpeare's "cloud-capt towers and [2]gorgeous Palaces, leave not a wreck behind." When you ſee this Letter, however, all your doubts will vaniſh, as we are now embarked upon the wide Ocean, and Favonian breezes are waſting us to the Shores of Sweden. You, and perhaps our other friends, are ſmiling at our romantic Expedition, you are laying your heads together and conſulting how three mortals, like Sir H. G. L. Mr. B. and myſelf, can expect to ſubſiſt upon Lapland mountains, or how we ever formed the reſolution of un⯑dertaking ſo enterprizing a Journey. But, my dear friend, give yourſelf no trouble about us. We have be⯑gun our Expedition with good Spirits and undiminiſhed Courage and hope to finiſh it with equal eclat. Perhaps you will not believe me when I ſay that we are enjoying ourſelves in our Cabin with our uſual Engliſh Cheer, diſdaining the bluſtering of Boreas or the tumult of the waves, with

There is a variety in a ſhort Voyage very agreeable to a perſon accuſtomed to live on land, provided he can enſure himſelf from Sea-ſickneſs. The unbounded blue Horizon, the Sun-beam playing upon the waters, the [3]floating of the Sails, and gay tackling of the Ship, give a brilliancy to the ſcene that cannot fail to pleaſe. This is the delightful Proſpect which the Land-man is ſo apt to paint. But when the melancholy Sailor takes up the pencil, how different is the picture which he draws? He delineates ſtormy ſkies and rolling waves, he paints the over-hang⯑ing rock and foundered ſhip, and all the hardſhips of a Seaman's Life. But, I think, I had better draw a curtain before this Painting, leſt, like the Child that dreſſes up a Giant, in our preſent ſituation I ſhould happen to be afraid of the creature of my own fancy.

When we arrive at Gottenburg, which we hourly ex⯑pect, I will give you the journal of our Voyage; and, as occaſion offers, will continue my narrative during the re⯑mainder of our Expedition. Tho', in all probability you will not meet with much novelty, for I pretend not to vie with ſuch celebrated Travellers as Coxe or Wraxal, yet ſuch reflections you will meet with as will at leaſt ſatisfy your curioſity, how we executed our agreeable Scheme.

We took our departure from Ravenſworth-caſtle the Seat of Sir H. G. L. on the 24th. day of May 1786, and [4]embarked about ſix the ſame Evening at Shields on board the Gottenburg Merchant Capt. George Fothergill. We got under-way about twelve o'Clock at night, with a briſk Gale at W. N. W.

LETTER II.

SAFELY landed on the coaſt of Sweden, I have now time to reſume my writing and fulfil my promiſe. I engaged myſelf to give you a faithful narrative of our proceedings. It will be neceſſary, therefore, to relate every circumſtance, with the ſame regularity that it happened, from the time that we loſt ſight of Tynmouth Caſtle and the Engliſh ſhore. The two firſt days paſſed along with unvaried tranquillity; our Ship ſailing gently with a fair wind from four and an half to, ſometimes, ſeven and eight knots in an hour. On Saturday the 27th. about ſix in the morning, we made, in the ſailor's language, the Naze, a point of land on the Norway coaſt at the Entrance of the Scaggerac, or as it is ſometimes called, Cattegat Sea. The country here appears to be very high and mountain⯑ous. Soon after we came in ſight of the Jutland part of the Daniſh Territories, on the oppoſite ſide, and paſt the Scaw, a light houſe on this coaſt, with a freſh breeze, al⯑moſt increaſing to a Gale of wind. We were obliged to reef our topſails, the ſea running ſo very high. The [6]weather hazy, and exceeding cold. As our Voyage, however, was almoſt over we had no great reaſon to com⯑plain. About eleven in the morning we made Wing's Beacon, which is ſituated on an high barren rock not far from the mouth of the River Gotha. In this expoſed ſitu⯑ation live the Pilots, braving the ſtorms and tempeſts for the ſake of their profeſſion, as this commands a fine Sea-view, and ſhips may be ſeen from hence at a great diſtance. When we came near this place we hoiſted a Jack upon the Main-top-maſt-head as a ſignal to the Pilots. They ſoon obeyed the ſummons, and the ſame afternoon we were ſafely moored in the Harbour of Gottenburg.

Soon after we landed, we dined at the Engliſh Hotel. After dinner the Engliſh Conſul's Coach attended us at the Inn, and conducted us to the Houſe of Mr. Smith, a Merchant reſident here, whoſe attention and civility de⯑mand our warmeſt Thanks. We ſpent the evening with him and were entertained with much eaſe and Hoſ⯑pitality.

The Town of Gottenburg is neat, clean and well-built; the ſtreets are regular and uniform; the houſes, chiefly of [7]wood painted ſo as to reſemble brick and ſtone. Part of the Town ſtands upon a ſwampy plain, which like the Dutch towns, is interſected by Canals, the other part upon the declivity of an hill. The Harbour is commodious and convenient. There are eſtabliſhments here of ſeveral branches of commerce, particularly an Eaſt India company and an Herring Fiſhery. From theſe two cauſes alone this place has increaſed conſiderably in the ſpace of a very few years. The Entrance of the Harbour is guarded by the fort of new Elfsburg which is ſituated on a ſmall rocky Iſland and garriſoned. The Markets here are extremely well ſupplied with neceſſaries and for very moderate prices. The Chief Magiſtrate here, is the Burgo-maſter, who regulates the Markets, and poſſeſſes the civil direction of the Town, in the ſame manner as the Mayor of corporate Towns in England.

You will naturally expect that I ſhould not be ma⯑ny hours in Sweden before I ſhould be able to give ſome account of the fairer part of the Creation, who in every quarter of the Globe are entitled to attention. [8]But I will not be too raſh in delivering my opinion, I am, as yet, but a young Swede, and therefore can⯑not be ſuppoſed to have had many opportunities of obſervation. The Ladies, that have hitherto fallen in my way, have generally covered their beauties with a Veil. At leaſt I am willing to ſuppoſe there is beauty where I cannot prove the contrary; tho' I own, from their ſhapes and ſizes, that Spectator is very complai⯑ſant, who gives them credit for perſonal qualifications which certainly do not preſent themſelves before his Eyes.

LETTER III.

AS we intend leaving Gottenburg to-morrow, I ſhall reſume my narrative and give you ſome account of our proceedings ſince I wrote laſt. On the 29th. we accepted an Invitation to dinner from Mr. Hall, a Mer⯑chant of Eminence in this place, at whoſe houſe we were elegantly entertained after the Swediſh faſhion. The dinner, as well as ſupper which followed, conſiſted chief⯑ly of Sweet-meats, Fruits, &c. which were plentifully interſperſed with ornamental Images. But do not ima⯑gine this was the whole of our Entertainment. Other more ſubſtantial diſhes were placed on the corners of the table. Amongſt which were a Chader, (a Swediſh bird) a cock of the wood (another great rarity) and a Pike Pudding. The latter diſh will require ſome explanation. It conſiſts of a Pike dreſſed ſo as to reſemble the taſte of a cuſtard, and yet not loſing the flavour of a fiſh. I thought it rather palatable than otherwiſe. The method of conducting themſelves at table has a very ſingular ap⯑pearance [10]to a ſtranger. Every diſh, after being cut up, is handed about in rotation from one to another; every one helps himſelf and paſſes it to the next. Wine and all other Liquors ſtand upon the table. The rule is, to help yourſelves without any kind of ceremony; they drink no healths. The Ladies were particularly aſſiduous in perpetually filling our glaſſes. The cloth is not drawn as in England, neither do the Gentlemen ſit after the Ladies riſe. Each Gentleman conducts a Lady to another ſuit of apartments where Coffee is ready prepared. Tea about three hours after; then Cards and Muſic, or a walk 'till Supper. Upon this occaſion ſeveral Officers both of naval and military diſtinction were preſent.

The day after, we dined with Mr. Smith and were re⯑ceived by him with great politeneſs. It is the Etiquette of this country to ſalute the hand of every Lady you are introduced to; a ceremony you may be aſſured we did not forget upon this occaſion. We partook of a moſt elegant dinner conſiſting of various ſlight diſhes, After Coffee, Mr. Bowes, Mr. Hall junior, and myſelf, walked with the Ladies by the ſide of a beautiful canal leading [11]to the country, returned to tea and cards; ſupped and ſpent the evening very agreeably. Several Swediſh, French, and Engliſh Songs were remarkably well ſung. About twelve we returned to our Lodgings.

On the 31ſt. we were accommodated with the Conſul's coach, and made an excurſion of a few miles into the country. The rocks which we paſt were pictureſque and magnificent: the vallies ſeemed rich and were cloathed with a fine verdure. We returned to dine at the Engliſh tavern, and ſpent the evening with Mr. Smith.

On the 1ſt. of June we took a view of the Swediſh Ordnance which were then exerciſing for a review. It would be too humiliating to draw a compariſon between what we ſaw, and the Engliſh Artillery. The Soldiers, in general, look old and inactive; their regimentals are bad and unbecoming, eſpecially thoſe of the Officers which are both whimſical, gaudy, and ridiculouſly ornamented with ribbons, died feathers, &c. It may not be impro⯑per in this place to obſerve that the forces of Sweden are, properly ſpeaking, a regulated militia. Their armies [12]conſiſted formerly of peaſants who were remarkable only for their courage and numbers. The Cavalry are ſupport⯑ed by a rate raiſed upon the nobility and gentry according to their eſtates; the Infantry by the peaſants. Every farm of ſixty pounds a year is charged with a foot Soldier, who, if he marry, has a houſe built at the charge of the peaſant, who alſo muſt furniſh him with hay to keep a cow in winter, paſturage in ſummer, and muſt plough, ſow, and reap for him; and when this Soldier dies, they muſt provide one in his room. The Officers of horſe and foot are maintained by the King, who appoints a certain por⯑tion of land for that end, ſo that every Officer has a houſe and land, and the rent of as many farms as make up his pay.

We dined this day with the Conſul, where the Swediſh Admiral, the French Conſul, and many Barons, inveſted with different orders according to the conſtitution and cuſtom of the country, were preſent. In the afternoon we ſaw the Artillery fire at a target. The Military per⯑formances were very indifferent. Returned to the Conſul's and ſpent the evening.

[13]The next day was agreeably ſpent in a viſit to Mr. Hall's country ſeat, which is ſituated about five Engliſh miles from Gottenburg. The ſituation is moſt beautiful and romantic; it is environed with rocks of various ſhapes, which run in ridges for many miles; below, appears to the view, a fine extenſive Lake, far exceeding thoſe of either Cumberland or Weſtmorland; it abounds in pike, perch, trout and a variety of other fiſh. The woods conſiſt chiefly of oak, horſe-cheſnut, birch, and mountain-aſh, which grow tall but are ſlender, owing, I imagine, to the very thin ſurface of ſoil. The cattle which we ſaw here were, in general, ſmall, the ſheep, few and bad, their cloathing more reſembles hair than wool. The horſes are ſmall, like the welch ponies, but amazingly active; their common poſting is about nine or ten Engliſh miles an hour. The drivers are truly ridiculous both in manner and appearance. They have no harneſs for their carriages but uſe only ropes tied together with knots, which often ſlip and impede your expedition; otherwiſe the velocity would be beyond the traveller's conception.

LETTER IV.

AT length, after a long and not diſagreeable journey, in which we ſeldom ſtopped longer than neceſſity required, we arrived at the Metropolis of the Kingdom of Sweden laſt night. That you may travel along with us in idea, I ſhall continue to mention ſuch particulars as occur⯑red on the road.

We left Gottenburg on the afternoon of the 3d. inſtant, and ſlept that night at a ſmall Village called Vadebaka where we met with very bad accommodations of every kind. Our beds were dirty and uncomfortable, and no kind of victuals were to be got, but what we brought along with us. The roads, however, were remarkably good and the country agreeably variegated with rocks and woods, tillage-land and barren moors. The woods prin⯑cipally conſiſt of the ſpruce and ſilver fir, ſome few oaks and mountain-aſhes. The day following we purſued our [15]Journey through a fine country, and, as before, with de⯑lightful roads. I cannot omit a proper commendation of this attention to travellers. Indeed the advantage muſt be great to every country where ſo much care is taken of the public roads. Tho' we have no great reaſon to complain in England of our public turnpike roads, yet nothing there is comparable to theſe; ſwamps, moraſſes &c. are all equally made good; and thoſe fine woods and gravel roads have ſo beautiful an effect that the traveller might fre⯑quently ſuppoſe himſelf entering the avenue or approach to ſome great Manſion. We ſtopped at a very neat town called Lidkioping near the beautiful Lake Wenner which is the largeſt in Sweden being about one hundred miles long, and ſeventy-five broad. The river Gotha runs from hence by Gottenburg to the Sea. At Trolhetta there are ſeveral cataracts of great height and magnificence. In one place it falls over a rock ſixty feet high with ſuch a noiſe that it is heard at the diſtance of two hundred furlongs. The timber that is floated down this river falls over this precipice with ſuch impetu⯑oſity that it diſappears for a conſiderable time before it makes its appearance again. The bed into which this cataract falls has been founded by lines of ſeveral hundred fathom but never diſcovered. The ſame [16]night we ſlept at Enebacken; our beds bad and horrid accommodations as uſual.

Very early in the morning on the 5th. we took our de⯑parture and travelled with wonderful velocity to Marieſ⯑tadt where we breakfaſted. This is a large town upon the ſame beautiful and extenſive Lake. The woods were remarkably fine and thick on each ſide of the road, which is good, but mountainous. We found this a long and tedious ſtage, yet the variety of objects, wood, water, and rocks, beautifully arranged, rendered it agreeable. The woods were ſo extenſive that we could ſeldom ſee their limits. Of the Feathered tribe which we met with in this country, were the chader, ora, and black cock: of the Quadrupeds, the wolf, the bear, red and fallow deer, foxes, hares, and, it is ſaid, ſome few elks.

This evening we reſted, if it might be ſo called, at Blackſta; beds worſe than before, and as the luxury of ſheets was not to be had, we ſlept in our cloaths; and even theſe did not protect us from troubleſome companions, [17]a large ſpecies of the Flea peculiar to that country.

We continued our Journey the day following and paſ⯑ſed through a barren rocky country, very different from the laſt ſtage. There was no entertainment to the eye for many miles 'till we came to Stromſholm a Palace be⯑longing to the King of Sweden; a very poor manſion for Royalty indeed, but delightfully ſituated upon the lake Meller, which extends as far as Stockholm. The King's Stables in this place are thought magnificent and worth the traveller's notice, but in my opinion the very contra⯑ry is the truth. They are little better than our Yorkſhire barns. They contain twenty-two horſes which are eſteem⯑ed beautiful in Sweden. No ſtraw is here uſed for bed⯑ding, but the horſes lie upon boards. So far I muſt acknowledge from my own obſervation that this method of treating horſes is preferable to our own. Through all Sweden and Denmark you ſeldom ſee a lame or founder⯑ed horſe, which is not the caſe in England. The reaſon undoubtly is, that they are rendered more tender by ſtand⯑ing on a hot-bed produced by their own litter.

On the next day we purſued our Journey to Stockholm [18]not without hopes that we ſhould reach our temporary home before night. We travelled the three firſt ſtages over barren heaths, moraſſes, &c. A rocky wild ſcene around us afforded us but little pleaſure, as our eye could neither be gratified by a fine proſpect, nor our palate by a ſatisfaction of a different nature. We were at length agreeably relieved by entering a rich cultivated country; delightful, well watered vallies, lakes ornamented with many trees and beautiful overhanging rocks. At Tibla we were not unpleaſantly ſurpriſed with a tolerable dinner, and we arrived the ſame evening at Stockholm.

A Deſcription of this Metropolis I muſt defer 'till I have had an opportunity of examining the ſcenes around me. Here, however, we are, ſafe and well; and able to inform you how ſincerely I remain &c.

LETTER V.

THE City of Stockholm is a well built town tho' badly paved. It is ſurrounded by the Baltic ſea and lake Meller at their confluence. It is governed by two Burgo⯑maſters and twenty-four Rodmen or Aldermen. The King's Palace is magnificent. The Exchange is alſo a good and ſpacious building, the reſort of many capital merchants. The Churches here are ſuperbly decorated with a great variety of ſplendid ornaments. The people ſhew you much politeneſs, and dreſs in a ſtile reſembling that of the Spaniards. The almoſt obſolete French faſhion is ſtill in practice among the men, as they ſeldom meet but they ſalute each other.

The day after our arrival we dined at a Tavern, remark⯑able for dirt and bad accommodation. In the evening we went to the Opera; the houſe is a handſome building, magnificently lighted up. His Majeſty, the young Prince, [20]and many of the Nobility, were preſent. The dreſſes of the Actors were ſuperb; the performance, a Swediſh hiſ⯑torical piece repreſenting Guſtavus I. beſieging the city of Stockholm, and routing the Danes out of the country. A magnificent ſtatue is erected before the diet-houſe in memory of that Prince whom the Swedes regard at this day as their deliverer from Daniſh tyranny.

The next day we waited upon Sir Thomas Wroughton, who is the Engliſh miniſter reſident at this court; a Gen⯑tleman of great politeneſs and affability, who fills that department with much credit to himſelf, and honor to his country.

On Saturday the 10th. we made a party to view the Citadel, an ancient building, where may be ſeen the royal armory, colours, and other trophies worthy of ob⯑ſervation, taken by the military Heroes of the nation. The curioſities which we thought moſt remarka⯑ble were, Charles the XII's ſhirt, coat, boots and gloves which he wore at the time when he was killed at the ſiege of Frederickſhall. The regimental coat is of a dark blue colour, with large round gilt buttons, the [21]waiſtcoat and breeches yellow, his ſhirt fine, but plain, a black plain cravat, his boots very ſtrong and long with ſquare toes and ſteel ſpurs, his gloves made of very ſtrong leather, with ſtiff tops; the hat alſo which he wore that day was ſhot through above the right eye; a ſhot which killed him upon the ſpot. Various are the conjectures, even to this day, concerning the fall of that raſh Hero. It is ſurmiſed with circumſtantial probability that he fell by the hand of ſome of his own Army. It is certain, blood is ſtill to be ſeen on the gloves, and the mark of his fingers is evident upon his ſword belt. It ſeems as if he had put his hand to the wound when ſhot, and immediate⯑ly attempted to draw his ſword to ſtab, or defend him⯑ſelf againſt, the aſſaſſin. Undoubtedly he had involved his country in much debt, and many difficulties; but being of a turbulant ſpirit (almoſt bordering on madneſs) would not liſten to the diſtreſſes and repeated ſolicitations of his injured Subjects. His premature death, therefore, may be thus accounted for without any improbability. He fell a martyr to his ambition.

On Sunday the 11th. we went to St. Nicholas's Church. After divine ſervice we were ſhewn many ſuperb and [22]coſtly ornaments of ſilver and gold. As the Lutheran Profeſſion is very different from that of the church of Rome, I was much ſurpriſed to find the popiſh mode of worſhip, with reſpect to external ſplendor, ſo much adopt⯑ed in thoſe churches. The Prieſt, upon approaching the altar, inveſts himſelf in a rich embroidered cope, and alſo officiates according to many Roman Catholic cuſtoms. Above the altar-table, the aſcenſion of our Saviour is re⯑preſented in ſolid gold, inlaid with ſilver of moſt exquiſite workmanſhip, well worth the traveller's attention. There were many crucifixes of ſolid ſilver and gold.

Afterwards we were conducted to the church of Redeſ⯑holm, where lie interred many of the Swediſh Kings. The ſepulchre of Charles XII. had been attempted to be open⯑ed, out of curioſity, when Prince Henry of Pruſia viſited Stockholm, about twenty years ago, but being of marble and the lid beginning to break, they deſiſted. The Lutherans are very rigid in their attendance upon di⯑vine ſervice, but when that is over, as in France and other foreign countries, they go to plays, operas, and all kind of amuſements.

[23]On the 12th. we dined with the Engliſh miniſter, where a Swediſh Admiral, ſeveral Officers of deſtinction, and many Engliſh Gentlemen, were preſent. Sir Tho⯑mas paid us the compliment of inviting many of our own countrymen to his table that he might give us an Engliſh dinner; but alas! that proved merely nominal, as it all underwent a Swediſh diſguiſe.

LETTER VI.

I Take the liberty of continuing in this Letter my miſ⯑cellaneous remarks on this country, which, I expect, you muſt receive with no ſmall degree of indulgence, as many of them are the reſult of haſty obſervation. I would not have it underſtood that the Swediſh Ladies, in general, are diſguſting to an Engliſh taſte. There are many whoſe education and accompliſhments are as diſ⯑tinguiſhed as their birth, and whoſe affable temper and diſpoſition render them perfectly amiable. Theſe qualifi⯑cations a ſtranger to their language cannot always enjoy. They poſſeſs no ſmall ſhare of vivacity, wit, and affability, with many other accompliſhments; and to theſe we muſt add, the greateſt delicacy of manners. 'Tis true their mode of dreſs appears at firſt ſight rather ſingular to a ſtranger, as in ſome degree diveſting them of elegance; but that ſoon wears off and becomes reconciled to us by faſhion, the modern corrector of all abſurdities. In honor and juſtification of the Swediſh Fair, this peculiar merit [25]muſt certainly be allowed them, they poſſeſs a ſtability of temper and are by no means prone to frequent and fantaſtic changes either of mind or apparel; neither are they ſubject to the extremes of decoration but obſerve a ſtrict mediocrity. They are not actuated by that ſpirit of Emulation which we may obſerve in ſome countries that we know, neither do they endeavor to exceed or excel one another in diſtinctions of this trifling nature.

Muſic is eſteemed one of the moſt polite accompliſh⯑ments among the Ladies; it is indeed almoſt a general Science in this country. Many of their muſic Maſters are held in high repute, and that vocation is thought ſo honorable as to introduce them to all aſſemblies, with peo⯑ple of the firſt diſtinction. The Church muſic of the Swedes, inſpires the mind with religious awe. It operates, however, often too powerfully on weak minds and pro⯑duces more the ſhew than the true ſpirit of Religion.

It is not my intention, however, to deny the power of Muſic in diſpoſing the mind to ſeriouſneſs, and adding to the very ſpirit of devotion. Milton, who, we all know, [26]was not over fond of the external decorations of Religion as practiſed in the Church of England, yet allows the power of Harmony in this reſpect. After deſcribing the ſtudious Cloiſter, the high embowred roof, the antique Pillars and ſtoried Windows, caſting, as he ſays, a dim religious light; he adds

Much credit is due to this nation with reſpect to the Education and training up of young people ſo as to ren⯑der them uſeful members of Society. They are particu⯑larly attentive to the Education of the inferior claſſes of people; for which beneficial purpoſe they have inſtituted ſeminaries and ſchools, which are carefully inſpected by the ſuperior and dignified Clergy. When a youth attains a certain age, ſo as to be capable either of trade or any profeſſional line of life, if he ſhews any particular marks [27]of genius, or an uncommon aſſiduity in any of the walks of Science, theſe eccleſiaſtical directors report him to the King who gives orders, as the reward of his merit, that he may receive an Education ſuitably adapted to his temper and the bent of his inclination. If he continues his diligence and attention, his promotion his certain. This truly laudable inſtitution and exemplary pattern may well be thought worthy the imitation of more enlightened nations, as it is certainly productive of much emulation and improvement. To dig the rough diamond from the mine is doubtleſs a commendable labor, but to poliſh it and make it fit for uſe deſerves the higheſt praiſes.

LETTER VII.

THE Diet of the State, which is ſitting at this time, conſiſts of the King and general Eſtates of the Kingdom, which are thus divided: Firſt, the Nobility. Secondly, the Clergy. Thirdly, the Burgers. And fourth⯑ly, the Peaſants. Every military perſon of rank, from a General to a Captain, has the privilege of ſitting in Council and giving his vote. The Clergy elect from their deaneries and ſeparate pariſhes a certain number, who, with the Biſhops and inferior Clergy, repreſent that Body. Every Corporation elects the Burgers to repre⯑ſent them. From Stockholm, as it is the capital, and containing the largeſt number of Inhabitants they have double the number, which, when united, form a large and conſiderable Body. The Peaſants, who chuſe one of their own people from every pariſh to repreſent them, take alſo their ſeat in Diet.

When the King convenes the Diet, which he generally [29]does on particular and emergent occaſions, the Aſſembly meet at Stockholm in a very elegant Edifice built for this purpoſe. Their method of proceeding is this: His Majeſty informs them by a ſpeech from the throne of the cauſe of their convention; they then divide and ſeparate into four different chambers, the Nobles into a houſe of their own, the Clergy into the cathedral, the Burgers and Peaſants into another building acroſs the market-place. In their ſeveral chambers they conſider the matter in queſtion and give their aſſent or diſſent. The vote is carried by a majority. Every chamber has a negative in paſſing a law. After each of the States has come to a determination they return in regular order from the ſeparate chambers to the Diet-houſe, where the King ſits and receives their deci⯑ſive votes.

I could not but remark the pomp of their proceſſion from the Council chamber to the Diet-houſe. They are arranged in great form and the Town guard turns out un⯑der arms as they paſs. The firſt Noble, venerable in age and dreſſed in the court faſhion, went firſt; the reſt of the Nobility in pairs after; then the Archbiſhop of Upſala, a [30]man of a very reverend and apoſtolic appearance with a gold chain about his neck; the other Biſhops and Clergy two and two; then the principal Magiſtrate of Stockholm at the head of the Burgers; and laſtly, the poor Peaſants, the ſingularity of whoſe apparel and lank hair formed a remarkable contraſt with thoſe who went before. Yet, tho' appearances don't favor thoſe people, I was well informed that they are far from being deficient in the politics of their own country, and wonderfully ſkilled in the know⯑ledge of their own national conſtitution. They are firm in opinion, neither to be bribed or biaſſed, but adhere ſtrict⯑ly to the wellfare and credit of their nation.

Theſe people are particularly and moſt vigourouſly at⯑tentive to the actions and honor of the Senate, which is compoſed of fourteen Senators. Tho' the Peaſants them⯑ſelves are excluded from voting for the election of a Senator, yet the Senate is always accountable to the Diet, of which they make a part, for every tranſaction of its adminiſtration. So that the Peaſants have the power of checking the irregularity or encroaching power of a preſumptuous Noble. Neither will they admit the moſt tri⯑ſling infringement of any conſtitutional privilege whatever. [31]Rights of ſuch importance, tho' veſted, as may be im⯑agined, in an illiterate race of people, produce the good effects of decorum and a well regulated government.

A Senator is appointed as preſident to every court of juſtice, and a council, to manage and regulate all boards eſtabliſhed for the uſe of public revenues; ſuch as military offices, marine departments, and all other civil and com⯑mercial appointments. Their laws are comprized in a ſmall compaſs, and ſeldom ſubject them to the diſturbance of litigation; ſo that the profeſſion of the long robe in Sweden is of ſmall repute.

LETTER VIII.

HIS Majeſty's late animated and enterprizing attempt for a revolution ſucceeded to a certain degree, but not ſo far as to introduce and eſtabliſh an unlimited mo⯑narchy. He gained the Soldiers, and many of his Subjects joined his party and took the oaths of allegiance in con⯑ſequence of a moſt nervous and ſpirited addreſs which he made to his people. His elocution, affable manner, and great condeſcenſion, which indeed was only aſſumed to ſerve his turn, rendered him the idol of his country, and what added more to the patriotic zeal which they ſhewed for him, was, that he was a native of Sweden. His perſon is rather low but well made and active. It is very ſingular that of one ſide of his face does not at all reſemble the other. He delights much in military exerciſes and forms an annual camp at a ſmall diſtance from Stockholm, where he dedicates his time to military improvements.

The want of population, which is very much the caſe in Sweden, and above all, the want of current coin, will [33]always give a moſt effectual check to monarchical ambi⯑bition. Tho' the King maintains, and perſonally inſpects the moſt minute department of State, and attaches him⯑ſelf to every frugal ſyſtem of regal management, yet all is not ſufficient to effect his purpoſes. Neceſſity is a plea which even Kings cannot reſiſt.

Whether this was the reaſon, or whether he ſuſpected ſome impoſition in the management of the public revenues, and particulaly in that of diſtilled Spirits, or whether he had an eye only to his own private emolument, certain it is, that his Majeſty iſſued an edict for diſcontinuing every diſtillery of ſpirituous liquors throughout the King⯑dom. A ſecond ordinance was immediately proclaimed for erecting diſtilleries of his own in every province and laying a ſevere penalty on thoſe who dared to manufac⯑ture their own brandy. This Expectation of increaſing wealth ſoon vaniſhed and proved but an additional cala⯑mity. Partly from his own injudicious management, and partly from the impoſitions of thoſe he employed, he ſoon found the ill Effects of his Schemes. Doubtleſs, from ſuch a precipitate miſconduct, it was natural to [34]imagine, that many and great diſſentions would have ari⯑ſen among the People. Such diſcontents his Majeſty was aware of, and to appeaſe them ordered a reduction of the price from ſeven Shillings per Gallon to three Shillings and Sixpence. This ſtill had not the deſired effect, but on the contrary proved the conſequence of more imme⯑diate ruin. This want of commercial knowledge plunged him in ſerious and unforſeen dificulties, till at length it determined him to an application to Diet for relief. How far theſe ariſtocratical people complied with his deſires, how far the exigences of his ſituation were relieved, or whether any ſupply was granted, has not yet tranſpired.

LETTER IX.

IN my laſt I gave you an account of the tranſactions that have been paſſing between the King and the Diet. I can now inform you that this powerful Aſſembly, men, venerable in office, and ready to oppoſe every apparent principle of deſpotiſm, refuſed to comply with a ſcheme which he laid before them for a general liquidation of the royal debts. A further impropriety of conduct his Ma⯑jeſty was guilty of, in attempting to exact from his Country, a more exorbitant Sum to defray (as he ſaid) his expences to England. This was equally diſapproved of by the haughty Swedes, who immediately and em⯑phatically pronounced a general negative. Further appeals were then unneceſſary, and all addreſſes to his obſtinate Countrymen proved ineffectual.

This diſappointment was not well reliſhed, and indeed incurred the royal diſpleaſure. Being a man of a warm and impetuous diſpoſition, his Majeſty diſmiſſed the Diet [36]with a very ſpirited Speech cenſuring their meaſures and diſapproving of their oppoſition to him. After this he retired to the Camp and did not return to Stockholm for ſome days. This had likely to have terminated in a very ſerious manner, but by the proper and timely inter⯑ference of good Miniſters, tranquillity was at length happily reſtored to this Court.

Though the imprudence of his Majeſty's conduct may frequently throw a ſhade over ſome parts of his character, yet he poſſeſſes many good qualities which more than counterbalance theſe failings, and indeed add a brilliancy to his many diſtinguiſhed virtues. He is firm in friend⯑ſhip and always ready moſt liberally to recompenſe the fidelity of his Servants, ſo far as pecuniary ability will permit. When this cannot be done, which is ſometimes the caſe, he very judiciouſly confers honors and diſ⯑tinctions, titles, ſtars, and ribbons. Theſe honors he confers promiſcuouſly on all ranks and ſtations; neither regarding birth or any family diſtinction whatever. This Policy, adopted now by the Sovereigns of moſt coun⯑tries, rewards merit at a ſmall expence and procures an [37]additional number of retainers to the Court. He uſes the ſame means for the encouragement of literature and in promoting the Arts and Sciences. In this country, and a happy diſtinction it is, even the loweſt Mechanic is encouraged by a reward, equal to the ingenuity which he poſſeſſes. This proper policy cannot fail in the end of producing good effects throughout the Swediſh do⯑minions, and affords an Example worthy the imitation of the moſt civilized Kingdoms.

LETTER X.

THE late Dowager Queen, who was Siſter to his late Majeſty of Pruſia, oppoſed many of the preſent King's public meaſures, and ſhewed great diſapprobation of her Sons partiality to the cuſtoms and manners of the French; which, as it was likely, did not fail to give the French ſeveral advantages, the conſequence of ſuch delu⯑ſion. That politic people, in this caſe did not omit the improvement of ſo favorable an opportunity of advancing their intereſts. At length by gradual approaches and unſuſpected ſubtilty they made an invaluable purchaſe and became poſſeſſors of a great part of the Harbour of Gottenburg. This ſo greatly diſpleaſed the Dowager Queen, that, from that time, ſhe abſented herſelf from the Court and retired to the ſmall, but beautiful, Palace built in the Garden at Drodenholm.

It would be wrong to paſs over the character of this Lady in ſilence. She partook of many of the ſtrong [39]mental qualities of her Brother. She was not only well ſkil⯑led in all the parts of profound literature, but her unlimi⯑ted knowledge extended through every ſyſtem of politics. Early in life ſhe took much delight in the cultivation of a ſtrong natural underſtanding, which ſhe continued to improve to her death. That ſhe might have a retirement proper for this purpoſe ſhe built this ſmall Palace in the Garden at Drodenholm, which is elegant and of moſt exquiſite Architecture. The Chineſe taſte prevails moſt; there are ſeveral apartments decorated with mandarins, china-vaſes and various ornaments which highly compli⯑ment her taſte and judgement. In this retirement ſhe dedicated her time to books, and by indeſatigable ſtudy became a proficient in almoſt every language, but parti⯑cularly in the Latin tongue, which, it is ſaid, ſhe thoroughly underſtood. The library, which is of her own collection and extremely well choſen, is now a ſtanding teſtimony of her genius. Her private charac⯑ter, whatever may have been ſaid by the tongue of flander, it is not my buſineſs to inveſtigate.

To-morrow we intend to purſue our Journey to [40]Lapland; when I return to Stockholm I ſhall continue my reflections upon, either the cuſtoms, manners, or Politicks of this people, as it may happen. But do not ſuppoſe this ſhall in the mean time prevent your hearing from me. I ſhall write as often as I am able, preſuming on your friendſhip, that I cannot too often ſubſcribe myſelf yours &c.

[41] LETTER XI.

UPSALA, where we arrived this morning on our road to Lapland, is the firſt Univerſity of eminence and repute in Sweden. Many Foreigners and Students of different nations, even from England, reſort here for Education. The profeſſors of ſcience and language are men of unqueſtionable abilities, and of great reputation for learning. I had the pleaſure of dining with two of theſe profeſſional Gentlemen. Inſtead, as I expected, of finding them a formal and preciſe people, I was agreeably ſurpriſed to ſee them ſet aſide every unneceſſary reſerve, and with the greateſt politeneſs, freedom, and good hu⯑mour entertain us with every information which we wiſhed.

The City of Upſala is a pleaſant and healthful ſituation: in the lower part of the City there is a fine ſquare which forms the market-place; on an eminence is the caſtle which conſiſts of many beautiful and lofty buildings [42]chiefly of wood, commanding a diſtant but moſt exten⯑ſive view of the Gulf of Bothnia; from hence there is a moſt commodious communication with Stockholm. The much renowned Linaeus firſt formed here his celebrated Botanical Garden. It affords no extraordinary appear⯑ance to a ſtranger ignorant of Botany, but is matter of much curioſity to ſtudents in that Science.

The Fair in this place will not allow themſelves to paſs unobſerved. I ſhould not therefore excuſe myſelf of rudeneſs, if I were to omit the leaſt appearance of reſpect. They ſhew great attention to ſtrangers and aſſume a peculiar gaiety which in England might have the appearance of levity. It may not, however, appear ſo very extraordinary that theſe Ladies ſhould poſſeſs ſome knowledge of the ſofter paſſions, having all the advan⯑tage of a College Education.

It muſt not be conſidered as a particular want of reſpect to the married Ladies of Upſala, if I remark that at this place ſome fell under our obſervation, whoſe conduct and behaviour, ſtill leſs obeyed the rules of decorum, than [43]the unmarried Fair ones I have already mentioned. I am not the firſt Traveller that has had occaſion to make this remark, not on Sweden only, but on many of the North⯑ern Kingdoms, particularly Germany. Whatever reaſon may be aſſigned for this it is certainly true. And it would be well if in more faſhionable countries, the Maſk of Matrimony were not ſo frequently made uſe of, as a covering for Levity and Diſſipation, a ſkreen for the improper Indulgence of licentious Inclinations.

This celebrated City and Univerſity deſerves a more particular attention than I am at preſent able to beſtow upon it. When we return, which we ſhall do, through this place, I will endeavour to give you a better account of its Hiſtory.

Sir H. G. L. has cauſed a drawing of our Entrance into this City, to be engraved, which will accompany this Letter.

LETTER XII.

I Write this from a Village on the road that I may not interrupt the narrative of our Journey. I ſhall re⯑ſume my pen when we become more ſtationary.

We left Upſala early in the morning on the 14th. of June, and attempted to dine at a dirty Village about noon, but alas! nothing comfortable was to be met with. But tho' our palates this day received no gratification, our eyes certainly did, from proſpects the moſt romantic and entertaining. We travelled for many miles by the ſide of a very beautiful and extenſive Lake, and paſſed a moſt wonderful and pictureſque cataract called Elkerby fall. In the evening we arrived at Gefle. Gefle is a Seaport ſituated on the Gulf of Bothnia an arm of the Baltic Sea. There appeared more induſtry in the cul⯑tivation of Land here, than in any part of this country which we had hitherto paſſed. Leaving behind us theſe traces of civilized life we entered into woods that did not terminate for many miles.

[45]The next day we continued our Journey, as before, through almoſt endleſs woods, and paſſed a variety of Lakes, one of which we were obliged to croſs in a Ferry about half a mile over. The Swediſh Watermen, who are neither expeditious nor expert, greatly impeded our Journey. About eleven at night we arrived at a town called Igſund. We had Letters of recommendation to a Gentleman of that place, by whom we were moſt policely received and hoſpitably treated. The town of Igfund tho' in itſelf ſmall, yet very extenſive Ironworks are carried on here, the property of Merchants in Stockholm. After breakfaſting the next morning with our hoſpitable friend and his Lady we left Igſund and travelled through a country full of rocks and precipices, deep and heavy ſands, with little variety. The Woods, as uſual, were very extenſive. Some ſmall Villages are ſcattered upon the borders of the Lakes which are inhabited by Boors whoſe ſole ſubſiſtence depends upon the fiſh they can procure from the Lake on which they live. They have very little corn, and in order to increaſe the quantity of food they mix it up and grind it with the thin rind or inward bark of the fir-tree; afterwards they form it into thin large cakes. Tho' their diet is very meagre yet [46]they are a large, bony, athletic people, capable of bearing much fatigue.

The Woods here are remarkably extenſive and thick, and are ſuppoſed to harbour more wild beaſts than any other part of Sweden. We were informed of a melan⯑choly inſtance of the ferocity of theſe wild animals near a neighbouring Village while we were there. Two un⯑ſortunate Girls, attending their h [...]rds in the wood, were both devoured by a ravenous ſhe-bear and her young, which the day before had been ſeen prowling for prey.

The ſame night we reached Sunval a Sea-port town upon the ſame Gulf. The trade of this place chiefly conſiſts in the building of Ships, which is very conveni⯑ent on account of its near ſituation to ſuch extenſive and fine foreſts. It neither imports nor exports any thing, except tar, which they extract from their firs.

On the morning of the 17th. we croſſed two ſerries and paſſed a moſt mountainous country. The hills on [47]every ſide were almoſt precipices, altogether inacceſſible. This day we dined at an inſignificant Village where we unexpectedly met with tolerable accommodations. In the afternoon we croſſed a Lake, a mile and a half long. The country to Dogſtau, where we ſlept, was almoſt a conſtant ſucceſſion of ſteep rocks and barren hills, which delayed us much, for which reaſon we did not reach that place till two in the morning, where we found accommo⯑dations of every kind exceeding bad. Here we delayed not long but left Dogſtau very early, and paſſed under an exceeding high rock at ſome ſmall diſtance from the town. The ſummit of this rock is much reſorted to by ſtrangers, to ſee the Sun at midnight.

We dined at a neat Village; the houſe was uncom⯑monly clean, and we were agreeably ſurpriſed with un⯑looked for delicacies, ſuch as, a variety of wild fowl, eggs, chaders, &c. From hence we made a ſlow progreſs in travelling, as the roads were deep and ſandy, and arrived at Leſver the ſame night, a town ſituated in a wretched country, the Land producing no corn for three years paſt. This circumſtance threatens them with the dreadful con⯑ſequences of a general Famine; a calamity too often experienced in this miſerable country.

LETTER XIII.

THIS morning we entered Uma, a beautiful well⯑built town, ſituated upon a fine River of the ſame name, where Ships are built of large burthen. The river runs on the ſouth ſide of the town and empties itſelf into the Gulf of Bothnia. It gives its name to a part of Swediſh Lapland in which it has its ſource, from hence called Uma Lapmark. It is too broad to admit of a bridge which renders the paſſage very incommodious, as the ferries are very bad and ill ſupplied. The Govern⯑or of Weſt Bothnia reſides here, which is about two hundred and eighty miles north of Stockholm.

The ſame night we arrived at Richlea the firſt town at which we ſlept in Lapland. The roads here are like thoſe we had left with rocks, woods, and, in the height of Summer, burning ſands. The town of Richlea vies with, and indeed far ſurpaſſes, the towns in the Swediſh territories in dirt and poverty. Beds, there were indeed, [49]if ſuch they may be called, which we lay upon, and by the aſſiſtance of fatigue contrived to ſleep till morning. By day we were bit by the Muſqueto-fly and during the night by inſects of a nature equally diſagreeable to our feelings. Our faces, legs, and bodies were ſo immode⯑rately ſwelled as to render us truly pitiable objects. We left that place to free ourſelves from ſuch an uncomfort⯑able ſituation, as early as poſſible.

On the next day we arrived very early at a ſmall Village called Gumboda. Here we were entertained with an Encampment of Swediſh Soldiers which made a very indifferent military appearance. From their awk⯑wardneſs and apparent want of diſcipline I took them for ſome new raiſed Lapland Militia. We ſlept that night at Sunana, where we found an excellent Inn. Every thing, much to our ſurpriſe, was uncommonly clean for that country. The Landlady ſeemed very deſirous to pleaſe; that circumſtance could only be gueſſed at from her actions, as an entire ignorance of the language of the country rendered any other intercourſe impracticable.

[50]Our Journey the next day was much retarded by the wilful negligence of thoſe Boors who are obliged to ſupply all Travellers with horſes. A negligence in this reſpect ſubjects them either to corporal puniſhment or a pecuniary fine. On which account, the Traveller ſign [...] a book which is kept for this purpoſe, and at the ſame time particularly notes how long he had been detained by their neglect. This book muſt be produced at every quarterly meeting of their Magiſtrates, who regulate every puniſhment according to the deſert of the offender. Were it not for the ſtrictneſs of this regulation no foreign⯑er could commodiouſly travel, but muſt be ſubject to the greateſt impoſitions.

This country abounds in Lakes and Rivers which, though particularly beautiful and romantic, greatly hin⯑dered the progreſs of our Journey, as we were obliged to paſs over many of them. For which reaſon we did not arrive at Pithia till five in the afternoon. Here we dined at the Burgo-maſter's houſe, were genteelly received, and ſet down to a very ſlight dinner which we quickly diſ⯑patched. Pithia, like Uma, gives its name to a Province [51]of Swediſh Lapland, is ſituated upon a river of the ſame name which riſes in the Lapland mountains, and runs into the Gulf of Bothnia.

From hence we ſet out for Ernaſto, where we arrived the ſame night, but finding the beds damp we were obliged to ſleep in our cloaths. From this circumſtance you will not be ſurpriſed that we were very ſoon ready to purſue our Journey in the morning. The town of Pithia is perhaps one of the largeſt and beſt built towns in Lapland. It is governed by a Burgo-maſter and twelve Rodmen. This place has more the appearance, than the reality, of trade, though extremely well ſituated for that purpoſe. It is ſurrounded by a fine navigable water which communicates with many Lakes and Rivers. The Inhabitants ſeem to be an inanimate ſort of people, neither deſirous to pleaſe nor giving themſelves much trouble to ſhew their diſpleaſure.

LETTER XIV.

AFTER leaving Pithia and paſſing over a large extent of country, very little of which is good, the great⯑er part, bad, and indifferent, a better proſpect preſents itſelf before us. Here Plenty might have been expected from the apparent good quality of the ſoil if the people were inclined to induſtry. But, alas! on account of their indolence, and ignorance in the art of Agriculture, Poverty, ſcanty Poverty, continues to oppreſs them.

After croſſing a very indifferent Ferry we arrived at a ſmall but neat town called Gambelſtaden, where it is recorded, that King Charles XI. of Sweden, on his return from Tornao, humourouſly declared, that he had in his tour met with three very extraordinary circumſtances; the firſt was, ſeeing the Sun at midnight at Tornao; the ſecond, that in croſſing the Ferry, a large Salmon leaped into the boat; and laſtly, that when he attended divine [53]Service at Gambelſtaden, the pariſh Miniſter aſcended the roſtrum to preach before him, but being overcome by diffidence, and awed by the preſence of Majeſty, re⯑turned again to his ſeat without uttering a word. Here we viſited the church, which is a ſpacious building ſu⯑perbly ornamented with gaudy grandeur.

The ſame night we ſlept at Grot. The Clergyman of the pariſh was the Landlord. Not far from this place we obſerved two criminals ſtretched upon the Wheel for murder. Capital executions are not common in this country, and indeed are but ſeldom inflicted, except in caſes of murder. On ſuch occaſions only they have not yet laid aſide the uſe of torture, a proof, among others, that the Government of Sweden has not yet attained that degree of refinement which in more ſouthern Kingdoms every where prevails.

The morning following, after paſſing a noble river, we en⯑tered Finland. The country here is deep and ſandy, and of courſe barren and unfruitful. The Inhabitants are to ap⯑pearance rough, and their manners uncultivated to a great [54]degree; but though to a ſtranger they appear ignorant, yet they are ſufficiently knowing where their own intereſt is concerned. This day we arrived at Tornao, a beautiful well built town ſurrounded by a river of the ſame name, or rather the river here ſwells into a ſpacious Lake. This water produces a great quantity of Salmon of un⯑common weight and ſize. This town is the place of reſidence of many capital merchants. The principal trade here conſiſts of tar and furs of all kinds, brought down from the high country by the Laplanders, which they barter for cloth, hardware and other merchandize.

At twelve o'clock this night we ſaw the Sun in full beauty. The Horizon being remarkably clear, gave us a moſt delightful view of that, to us, extraordinary ſight. Sir H. G. L. has cauſed an engraving to be made of this agreeable Scene. ^* The Inhabitants of this climate no doubt reap many advantages from this circumſtance during the Summer ſeaſon; but, alas! a long and dreary Winter reverſes the ſcene and involves them in continu⯑al darkneſs. Yet this is not quite ſo diſmal as might be imagined. The aurora borealis appears with peculiar [55]ſplendor in all northern countries and ſupplies in ſome degree the place of the Sun. The ſtars too in their clear froſty nights ſhed an agreeable light, and enable them without much impediment to follow many of their or⯑dinary occupations.

LETTER XV.

AS we had great need of reſt, after a Journey of eight hundred miles through a country deſtitute of every comfort and convenience of life, it was thought expedi⯑ent to halt at this place yeſterday and to-day. This town is ſituated on the confines of Finland. The lan⯑guages both of the Laplanders and the Finlanders are ſpoken here. Our interpreter being well ſkilled in all the dialects of this country we met with fewer difficulties in the common courſe of things than we had reaſon to expect.

[56]This day we attended the Church which ſtands at ſome diſtance from the town. It is a ſmall but neat building, and the benefice about eighty pounds per annum. Few church preferments in this country are of greater value. In the afternoon we received an invitation from the Judge's lady to drink coffee, the Judge himſelf then at⯑tending the Diet at Stockholm. We accepted the invita⯑tion and were moſt politely received by the lady. Her dreſs was very ſuperb having a gold chain about her neck, a diamond croſs, ear rings, and a variety of preci⯑ous ſtones on every finger. Her veſtment was a rich brocade, very ſhort, after the country faſhion. In the evening we were introduced to a grand ball, where we were much entertained with their peculiar manner of dancing. Soon after, the Judge's Lady made her ap⯑pearance; when ſhe entered the room the company all roſe and paid her much reſpect: from this it may be imagined that ſhe is conſidered as a perſon of no ſmall conſequence in this place. Though ſhe was not now in the meridian of youth and beauty, ſhe danced minuets, cotillions, and many of their own country dances, with uncommon activity and ſpirit. The Inhabitants of this place, though living as it were at a great diſtance from [57]poliſhed Society, are far from being an unpoliſhed People. The maſter of the ceremonies paid us the utmoſt reſpect and attention. Being ignorant of their cuſtoms, we were, according to the Engliſh Phraſe, going to take a French leave, but were given to underſtand that it would be deem⯑ed the higheſt diſreſpect if we did not particularly ſalute the Judge's Lady and make a general obeiſance to the whole company. With this ceremony, though by no means pleaſant to us, we were obliged to comply.

Tornao is the chief town of Weſt Bothnia, about three hundred and twenty miles north eaſt of St [...]ckholm, ſitua⯑ted on a river of the ſame name, which riſes in Lapland, runs ſouth eaſt, and falls at Tornao into the Gulf of Both⯑nia. They have a tolerable trade here in Furs with the Laplanders, their neighbours, on the weſt and north, and the Finlanders who inhabit the eaſtern ſide of the Gulf.

LETTER XVI.

IT is our fortune to be at Tornao on Midſummer day—a day always celebrated with the greateſt Feſtivity in Sweden. The Boors flock to this place in great numbers from the ſurrounding country and endeavour to amuſe themſelves in various ways. Their curioſity has been very much excited by Sir H. G. L.'s Landaw, which they have viewed with much admiration. They are alſo as deſirous of ſeeing us as we can poſſibly be of obſerving them. For this purpoſe, through ignorance or curioſity, I will not call it impertinence, they are continually ſtaring at us through the windows of our dining room.

I muſt now relate an Adventure, though of no great im⯑portance, yet as it amuſed us, I ſhall have your pardon for ſo doing. In the evening a ſtout Finlander laid his elbows upon the window, and without much ceremony[59]called to us frequently for brandy. We nodded to him as we were drinking our wine, while he continued to re⯑peat his former requeſt in his own language, Anna ma vino, Hurra Kultana, "Dear Gentlemen, give me brandy." Sir H. with great good nature complied with his requeſt, and gave him two or three glaſſes which he ſeemed to enjoy very much, but ſtill he called, Hurra Kul⯑tana. A few glaſſes more were given him, which made him drop his elbow from the window, and rather grow ſhorter. As his legs would not bear him up, he bent his knees againſt the wall, and by the help of his hands he ſupported himſelf, by holding faſt by the window poſt; but ſtill he called, Hurra Kultana. Two glaſſes more were given him, till at length he could ſay nothing but Kultana, Kultana, and gradually ſunk from the window.

When his countrymen who were ſtanding around ſaw him drop, they took him carefully up and carried him away. Word, however, was ſoon brought that the man was ſo ill that they expected his throat would ſoon be on fire, and if he did not recover before the morning, our poſt horſes would be ſtopped and our Journey prevented.

[60]Our anxiety was removed in an hour or two's time by the man's appearance once more upon the ſtage. He came into the yard and began to play ſeveral anticks, and to ſhew us how the Bear dances in the fields.

About eleven o'clock the ſame night the much renown⯑ed Profeſſor Helands waited on Sir Harry. His counte⯑nance and appearance ſhewed that he was a true born ſon of Lapland. His age about ſixty nine. He ſpoke the French language tolerably well, and ſaid many hand⯑ſome things of the Engliſh nation. He informed us how many Engliſh Gentlemen had viſited Tornao in his time, and ſhewed us Letters he had received from perſons of rank in London.

There is one circumſtance concerning him I cannot omit mentioning, to ſhew the high eſtimation in which learning is held and the credulity of the common people, as well as the veneration which is paid in unenlightened nations to men of ſuperior knowledge. We were informed, and I believe the circumſtance was entirely cre⯑dited by the perſon who told us, that for his winter [61]amuſement this learned Profeſſor had taught a ſwarm of Bees to hunt, and even to kill, mice. It is impoſſible to ſay how far the minds of the ignorant may be impoſed upon. It is not perhaps many centuries ago that this ſtory would have found Believers even in England.

We walked in the evening to the ſide of the river to ſee the Finlanders draw their nets at the Salmon Fiſhery. They form an Encloſure with Poles driven down in the water, the length of which is three hundred yards, the breadth one hundred, with only one entrance for the Sal⯑mon. Every two hours they draw their net and generally catch about forty or fifty Salmon at a time. The inhabi⯑tants of this place pickle and ſalt it in barrels and export it from hence to all parts of Sweden. A large quantity is ſmoked and dried, and ſold very cheap. Our Landlord the ſame evening bought a large Salmon that weighed twen⯑ty-one pounds for nine dollars copper (about half a crown.) The Pike is a fiſh very abundant at Tornao, and in Lapland. Theſe alſo are dried by the natives and ſold to the mer⯑chants for exportation. But of all the fiſh which their [62]water can ſupply, none is to be compared with the Ruda either for goodneſs or for flavour. It reſembles the Carp in ſhape, and is equally pleaſant to the palate.

LETTER XVII.

THE Laplanders in general are below the middle ſta⯑ture, with flat faces, high cheek bones, long black hair, and their complexions of a mahogany hue. Their habitations are dirty to a great degree, but on account of their unſ [...]ed life are portable. They leave an aperture at the top which ſerves both for window and chimney, and a ſmall hole on one ſide for an entrance. In ſhort their dwellings are not unlike thoſe deſcribed in Cook's Voyage of the inhabitants of Kamſchatka. The Laplanders are muſcular and active, though at the ſame time, which ſeems to imply a contradiction, they are na⯑turally idle, but perfectly pacific in their tempers. The Women, likewiſe are low, with large broad features, but [63]have ſo gentle and complaiſant a manner that their beha⯑viour removes a prejudice which their firſt appearance does not fail to excite. As their manners are gentle ſo their characters are chaſte.

The language of the Laplanders is a harſh and unintel⯑ligible Jargon derived from their neighbours, the ancient Inhabitants of Finland. Their voices however are muſical and they never require much entreaty to oblige. The few ſpecimens which we poſſeſs of Lapland Poetry, give you a favourable impreſſion of their taſte, and taſte moſt certainly it is, uncorrupted by foreign Ideas, and entirely the pro⯑duction of nature. In the Spectator you have two elegant Odes tranſlated from the language of Lapland (Nos. 366 and 406.) I ſhall make no apology for adding a third.

With reſpect to religion I'm affraid the Laplanders have yet much to learn: though like every other quarter of the Globe, Knowledge is making gradual advances even here. The high Laps, as they are called, that is, thoſe who inhabit the mountains, have not yet quite forgot their original Paganiſm, notwithſtanding the great pains which [65]the Swedes have taken to introduce Chriſtianity amongſt them. Many ſuperſtitious cuſtoms ſtill remain to pro⯑claim the darkneſs of their minds. Augury and witch⯑craft make a part of their belief; they ſtill whiſper to their Rein-deer when they undertake a Journey, and addreſs their ancient Idols for the increaſe and ſafety of their flocks. You have heard no doubt of their conjuring Drums. I met with one in the poſſeſſion of a Prieſt at Uma, who had attended a reformed Pagan in his dying moments. His original opinions he had long ſince changed, but retained this piece of ancient ſuperſtition to delude the ignorant, and ſupply his own neceſſities.

This Inſtrument is of an oval form, made of the bark of the fir, pine, or birch-tree, one end of which is covered with a ſort of parchment dreſſed from the Rein-deer ſkin. This is loaded with braſs rings artfully faſtened to it. The Conjuror then beats it upon his breaſt with a variety of frantic poſtures. After this he beſmears it with blood, and draws upon it rude figures of various kinds. When he has gone through all his manaeuvres, he informs his credulous audience what they wiſh to know, which he ſays [66]was communicated to him during the paroxiſm of his attitudes. Like other Fortune-tellers, his anſwers are generally of a favorable kind, for which he receives pre⯑ſents of brandy, which adds fuel to his frenzy and renders him mighty wiſe.

LETTER XVIII.

THE Wealth of the Laplanders conſiſts chiefly in the Number of Rein-deer. Theſe draw their Sledges in winter, but in ſummer theſe animals looſe their vigour and ſwiftneſs, and are eaſily overcome by heat. I have ſeen them reclining in the woods, and apparently ſo en⯑feebled, as ſcarcely able to get out of your way. When thus oppreſſed they make a noiſe reſembling the grunt⯑ing of an hog. Even then the Laplanders make uſe of them to tranſport their Effects from one ſtation to another, which they have occaſion to do more frequently in ſum⯑mer []

[67]than in winter, as they are then in queſt of fertile plains for the maintenance of their numerous flocks.

The Rein-deer is of the ſhape of a Stag, but rather ſtronger. The hair light, rather inclining to an aſh co⯑lour. His horns are very long and finely branched. The lower branches, which fall very near the forehead, are ſaid to be uſed by the animal in breaking the ice, when the waters are frozen over, that he may get drink. His food is ſhrubs and plants, or moſs and the bark of trees. His legs are very hairy and his hoofs moveable, for he expands and opens them in going. He is an extremely ſwift, as well as an extremely ſtrong, animal.

After ſpeaking of the rein-deer it is but proper that I ſhould mention the Sledge which renders them ſo uſeful. The Sledge is formed ſomething like a boat. Its bottom is convex, of courſe none but a perſon well practiced in ſuch a mode of travelling could preſerve himſelf from overſetting every moment. It is ſquare behind, but pro⯑jecting to a point before. The Traveller is tied in this [68]Sledge like a child in a cradle. He manages his carriage with great dexterity by means of a ſtick with a flat end, to remove ſtones or any obſtructions which he might meet with. In this ſituation they travel with great rapidity.

The Laplander is very dexterous in making utenſils of wood. He is his own carpenter and boat-builder. I was not a little ſurprized, in a tent of wandering Laplanders, to find the cheeſe which they make of the rein-deer's milk curiouſly impreſſed with a wooden inſtrument ſuch as is commonly uſed in the Engliſh Daries. They faſten their boards together, when they make their boats or other moveables, with Twigs or the Nerves of the rein-deer. The women alſo make uſe of the latter as a ſubſtitute for thread in ſewing. The female Laplanders ſhew great in⯑genuity in embroidering their Garments with braſs-wire, tin, or any other gaudy ornament. They take much de⯑light in adorning their heads, neck, and ſhoulders with glaſs beads, &c. and are very fanciful in their girdles which are embroidered and fringed with large tufts at the two extremes and tied in large knots; this they look upon as the greateſt ornament of their dreſs.

[69]The Dreſs of Lapland Ladies of ſuperior rank, ſuch as are reſident in towns, is equal to their fortunes. This is often very ſuperb and coſtly, whimſically loaded with or⯑naments, gold and ſilver rings, diamonds, and pearls, &c. I have already mentioned the dreſs of the Judge's Lady at this place. The veſt of a Lady of Quality is of the richeſt brocade ſilk, trimmed with ribbons which float round the neck and waiſt; the cap, of blue or white ſatin, wrought with embroidery of various colours. The young women wear a gold ring on the middle finger of the right hand: when they marry it is changed to the left.

There are but very few dogs in Lapland, and theſe of a breed peculiar to the country, ſmall ſized, with cur tails and pointed ears, not unlike the wolf dog. They are very uſeful to hunters in the woods. They are generally well trained and of wonderful ſagacity in finding game, particularly the chader and ora. After the bird is ſprung the dog purſues and watches its perch, which commonly is upon a high tree. The bird becomes unaccountably faſcinated by the ſteady poſture and barking of the dog, ſo that the maſter has no difficulty in diſcovering the Object of his purſuit.

[70]The fiſhing Laplanders chuſe their habitation upon the ſhore of one of their Lakes. They are very dexterous in this art: and no wonder, as on this their whole ſubſiſtence depends. This however can only be a ſummer employ⯑ment. When the lakes are frozen they are obliged to be⯑take themſelves to their foreſts, and ſubſiſt by hunting. The fiſh of theſe lakes are moſt excellent in quality and flavour, but they know not how to dreſs them. The fol⯑lowing are the names by which the variety of them are known. The Gadda Abborre, Mort, Loyan, Gris, Ruda or Caraſſir, a ſpecies of the carp but much larger: the Stremling, and Negenogon, of the herring kind, but inha⯑bitants of freſh water; the Lax, (or ſalmon) Skoma-karen, Rudor, Simper and Lake.

When the ſeaſon approaches for curing their fiſh for their winter proviſions, they are obliged to take a long and tedious Journey over deſerts and mountains to pro⯑cure Salt at their Sea-port towns. Theſe Journeys are generally performed in large parties.

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LETTER XIX.

FROM the wild appearance of this mountainous region, far from population and cultivated life, the ſportſman may expect the higheſt gratification. Wild game indeed of various kinds may be found here in great abundance. It cannot be expected in an excurſion of this kind that I ſhould give you a complete Natural Hiſtory of the coun⯑tries which I viſit; neither will I pretend to be very accu⯑rate even in thoſe things which I do deſcribe. I can only relate what I beheld, and deſcribe as well as the circumſtances of our ſituation would permit.

Amongſt others, the Kader, or Chader, is a remarkably fine bird, as large as a common turkey. The cock is black: the hen of an orange colour, and not quite ſo large as the cock. The hen generally lays about eight or ten eggs. [72]One evening as Sir H. G. L. was out on a ſhooting party, his dog ſprung a Chader; upon walking to the place he found her neſt at the foot of a rotten fir-tree with eight eggs in it.—The Ora nearly reſembles our black game in England but larger. But the Hierpe is reckoned the fineſt game that can be eaten; in ſize it is like a young pigeon; its colour, black, grey and white. (ſee the plate) The Snoripa is rather larger; for the firſt two years this bird turns white in the winter and grey in the ſummer, like the hares in this country. Afterwards it remains al⯑ways white. This bird makes an extraordinary noiſe and particularly at nights. It is not to be found any where but in Lapland, or the neighbouring countries. By ſome accident a few years ago this bird happened to make its appearance within an hundred miles of Stockholm, which very much alarmed the common people in the neigh⯑bourhood where it was found. In ſhort, from the par⯑ticular noiſe it made at nights a report prevailed amongſt the vulgar that the wood was haunted by a Ghoſt. So much were they terrified by this inviſible ſpirit that no⯑thing could tempt the poſt-boys after it was dark to paſs this dreadful wood. This ſpirit, however, was at laſt happily removed by the ſagacity of ſome gentlemen who []

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[73]ſent their game-keepers by moon-light into the wood, and diſcovered the harmleſs Snoripa. The birds I have men⯑tioned are reckoned great rarities at Stockholm, whither they are ſent in the winter and ſold at very high prices. Beſides theſe they have the Moorkulla, Akeſhon, Purrhons, Rapphons, Gelenotte, Kneeper, which is a kind of Snipe, and the Yierper.

Woodcocks breed both in Lapland and in Sweden as well as other northern countries. After the breeding Seaſon, for a certain time, the woods of Lapland and Fin⯑land abound with them. Theſe they call in their language the Seaſon-bird, but they neither deſtroy or eat them, judg⯑ing them to be unwholeſome food, from the circumſtance of their having no crops. It has been an obſervation in Eng⯑land that for ſeveral years paſt Woodcocks have become remarkably ſcarce. This may probably be accounted for in the following manner. Sweden like other countries, is making a gradual progreſs in the arts of Luxury, amongſt which the indulgence of the palate takes no undiſtinguiſh⯑ed place. Wild fowl eggs have of late become a great [74]delicacy among the inhabitants of that country who en⯑courage the Boors to ſind out their neſts. The egg of the Woodcock they are particularly fond of, which is about the ſize of that of the Plover, and is exceeding rich in fla⯑vour. I have ſeen the Boors offering large quantities of theſe eggs for ſale in the market at Stockholm. From this practice it is not improbable but that the Breed of this bird as well as of the Chader, Ora, &c. will be greatly diminiſhed, if not at laſt totally exterpated. Upon en⯑quiry, however, I do not find that any alteration in point of quantity has, as yet, been perceived in Lapland.

LETTER XX.

FROM the number, ſize, and retired ſituation of the Lapland Lakes it may be imagined that they abound in a variety of aquatic fowls. This poſſibly may be the caſe, but in order to be a judge of this it would be neceſ⯑ſary to take up our abode in theſe cold regions during the winter months. There are ſeveral of the Duck ſpecies to be found here; one I was ſhewn which had been ſhot by a boor reſembling the Moor-cock in plumage, and which a perſon not well verſed in Natural Hiſtory might have miſtaken for one, but the bill and feet proved it to be an inhabitant of the waters.

There is a ſmall bird ſometimes to be met with in this country and in other northern climates. One of this kind was lately taken near Ravenſworth caſtle in the [76]county of Durham, and is now in the poſſeſſion of Lady Liddell. It is about the ſize of a Thruſh. This bird is called the Siebenſchwantz, or Bohemian Chatterer, a ſo⯑litary bird, from whence it is conjectured to have been called the Micro-phoenix. It has a long tail of blue, red and yellow feathers which give it a very glowing appear⯑ance. On almoſt every feather of the wing there is a ſmall red bright ſpot, like a drop of red ſealing wax. This laſt has been particularly obſerved in a bird of the ſame ſize, though otherwiſe leſs gaily feathered, in the ſouthern parts of America. But it ſeems probable that theſe birds are not of the ſame kind, as this has a tuft upon its head which does not anſwer the deſcription of the other. It is not, however, ſurprizing that birds, who are well provided for long journeys, ſhould be found in very diſtant countries, particularly as it ſeems within their power to remove from one place to another according to the temperature of different ſeaſons, or for other reaſons not ſo evident to men who are unable to judge of their Inſtincts.

From this country a large quantity of Aedder-down is col⯑lected [77]from a duck of that name, to be found only in the northern climes. The Down, is of ſuch value when in its purity, that it is ſold for two rix-dollars per pound. It is extremely ſoft and warm, and ſo light and apt to ex⯑pand that two handfulls ſqueezed together are ſufficient to fill a Down Quilt, which is a covering like a feather bed uſed in thoſe cold countries inſtead of a common quilt or blanket.

I muſt not forget to mention the Jo-Fugl, a bird re⯑markable for robbing other birds of their prey, which he is too lazy to look out for himſelf. If he cannot intimi⯑date them by his cry or appearance, he ſtrikes them with his bill ſo violently on the back, as to cauſe them to drop their excrement which he catches as it falls.

The Alk is a bird of the ſize of a ſmall gooſe: it will dive twenty fathomas deep in purſuit of herrings, and has ſometimes been drawn up by a fiſh-hook from that depth.

The Scarv or Loom is a very ſingular aquatic bird, about [78]the ſize of a Muſcovy duck. The egg after half an hours boiling remains liquid. The boors take theſe birds by lighting a fire under the rock where they build. The ſmoke and heat make them giddy, and they drop down in numbers.

Many cluſters of Swallows in their torpid ſtate, I was cre⯑dibly informed, are frequently found by ſiſhermen among reeds and buſhes in the Lakes both of Norway and Sweden.

Tho' this country ſeems to be ſituated under an inclem⯑nent Sky, yet we muſt not ſuppoſe that Nature has entire⯑ly deprived it of the fruits of the Earth. Beſides others which may be found in cold climates the following are the native fruits of Lapland. The A'kerbar, which grows in ſtony places, and is reckoned a rarity at the firſt Tables in Sweden, it is preſerved and uſed as a deſert, from which alſo they make a ſort of wine: the Hiortron, which grows in ſwamps, of the ſize of the Raſpberry, is yellow, and ve⯑ry delicious to the palate: and the Lingon, a fruit not [79]unlike a Cranbury, but as large again, which is preſerved and generally uſed in Sweden to roaſt beef.

The foreſts of Lapland produce, in great perfection the ſpruce and ſilver fir. Another ſpecies has lately been diſcovered here called the Mazar-tree; it is a tall, thick and uſeful timber. The Bole when cut in two is beauti⯑fully variegated, and hard enough to take an excellent poliſh. Tables of great beauty, and other ornamental furniture have been made of this wood, which is pur⯑chaſed for this purpoſe by the Swedes and their northern neighbours.

Lapland too has its flowers, which during its ſhort ſummer flouriſh in the vallies. This country in general is very mountainous and barren; the ſituations on its Lakes, however, and in the interſtices of its Hills are pictureſque and beautiful. But there are extenſive for⯑eſts dark and diſmal, long and dreary plains, covered with moſs, and ſwampy; the proſpect of which cannot but [80]make the Inhabitant of moſt other countries, truly thank⯑ful for comforts which the Laplander cannot poſſibly enjoy.

Yet even the native of Lapland does not want his Enjoyments.

LETTER XXI.

IT has not been my intention, as it certainly was beyond my ability, to give you a complete Hiſtory of the preſent ſtate of Lapland. To do this a long reſidence in the country would be required; it would be neceſſary to expoſe yourſelf to the bitter winter blaſts of this incle⯑ment region, to climb mountains deemed inacceſſible to the feet of man, to live in the dark and dirty Huts of the native inhabitants, and to ſeed upon ſlender cheeſe, or the powdered bark of ſome neighbouring tree. Now, you know me too well, to imagine that I would be thus liberal of my labours for the benefit of the world. Fatigue and Hunger are but miſerable companions. Yet I will not ſay, how far curioſity and the Love of Novelty would carry me, to become better acquainted with this Polar Clime and country. You muſt, however, content yourſelf with ſuch obſervations as I have been able to give you, and that you may not ſay I have carried you over ſo many Lakes and Mountains, through ſo many foreſts and plains, without [82]offering one agreeable repaſt to your mind, I feel myſelf inclined to give you Thompſon's beautiful deſcription of the Scenes I have been deſcribing. There is another ad⯑vantage, I intend from this long quotation; and that is, if my reflections do not corroborate the ſentiments of the Poet, the Poet will at leaſt juſtify and illuſtrate my reflec⯑tions. After deſcribing the "martial hordes" of the north, this Poet of Nature proceeds,

LETTER XXII.

A People that live without exerciſing the Arts of Agri⯑culture, even the ſimple ones of ploughing, ſowing and planting, affords a ſingular inſtance in the preſent Hiſtory of the World. Such a people are the Natives of Lapland. Ignorant of all the improvements of Life, un⯑knowing in the ſeveral embelliſhments of ſociety, they live, in the interior parts of Lapland, as much as poſſible in a ſtate of Nature.

Yet Providence, who always finds a ſubſtitute where full enjoyment is denied, darts a ray of contentment beneath the raſter of the Laplander. Happy would it be for more poliſhed ſociety, if, in the midſt of their entertainments, they could meet with the ſame conſolation! If the native of Lap⯑land [86]poſſeſſes not his flocks and his herds, if he ſees not a⯑round him vallies ſmiling with corn, nor his rich paſtures and fine meadows, of this at leaſt he is certain, that he has no occaſion for them. His Rein-deer is his ALL. Of all tame animals this is at once the moſt ſerviceable and provi⯑ded for with the leaſt trouble and inconvenience. I have had occaſion to remark that their uſual food is moſs when they are unable to procure graſs upon the Mountains.

I have before mentioned both the Rein-deer and the Sledge; but as I have an opportunity of ſending you a drawing of the latter, which has been purchaſed by Sir H. G. L. for the purpoſe of ſending home as a curioſity, I ſhall add a more particular account of it.

The Sledge is ſhaped like a ſmall boat, with a back-board for the perſon to lean againſt, who ſits laced faſt in, and well ſecured from the cold. It is peaked before, to which part the leather thong is fixed which yokes the rein-deer to the carri⯑age. There is a cloth girt around the body of the animal which is faſtened on the back. The bit is a piece of ſmall leather tacked to the reins of the bridle over the deer's head and neck, and from the breaſt a leather ſtrap paſſing under the belly is faſtened to the fore-part of the Sledge which ſerves inſtead of Shafts.

[]

• a. The leather ſtrap or trace by which the Sledge is drawn,
• b. Pieces of different coloured cloth formed into a roſe.
• c. The covering of the Sledge made of beautiful ſpotted Seal-ſkin.
• d. A Braſs ring and looped piece of cord.
• e. Green cloth with a red ſcalloped border.
• f. Cloth.
• g. Yellow cloth.
• h. A Plate of braſs 'round the back-board.
• i. Cordage.
• k. A crooked piece of horn, and the ſtrap pulled through a loop of ſeve⯑ral ply of cordage.

LETTER XXIII.

IT may be expected while I am at this place that I ſhould ſay ſomething of the Inhabitants of the neigh⯑bouring Province of Swediſh Finland. Tornao, as I have informed you, ſtands at the very head of the Gulf of Bothnia, the eaſtern ſhore of which is inhabited by the Finlanders, ſubjects of the King of Sweden. The other diviſion of Finland lies further to the eaſt and owes alle⯑giance to the Empreſs of Ruſſia.

The Finlanders which fell under our obſervation at, and near, Tornao, appear to be more uncouth in their figures, leſs civilized in their manners, and leſs intelli⯑gible in their language than their neighbours, the natives of Lapland. Like theſe, they are low in ſtature, but ſtout and active, and from that temperance inſeparable from their ſituation, live to very great ages. Their [88]country is of the ſame nature with Swediſh Lapland, abounding in mountains, high and rugged, with rich and fertile vales, extenſive and beautiful lakes. Many of theſe Lakes are navigable and might be made ſtill more ſo at a very trifling expence. They communicate with the Gulf of Finland, and might very eaſily be made the ſeats of a good Trade. Ships are built here of a very large burthen; and Ship building in this place is a trade, which from the cheapneſs of materials might be very beneficial. Several French Agents during the late war, viſited Tornao to purchaſe Tar and other naval ſtores. This in all probability would have turned to great advan⯑tage, if the ſuddenneſs of the Peace had not put a ſtop to their tranſactions. From this circumſtance, I was credibly informed, they loſt above a third part of their contract.

At Tornao there is a great annual Fair, frequented by the mountain Laplanders and Finlanders. At that ſeaſon they reſort thither in great companies, and barter furs and other commodities, the produce of their country, for hardware and other neceſſaries. This Fair continues a week, and is conſidered as a ſort of Finland Jubilee. [89]When they depart for their own mountains the arrange⯑ment of their Deer and loaded Pulchas or Sledges makes a very ſingular appearance. They do not travel in a mixed multitude and without order, but with much regularity and method. Precedency is always claimed, and allowed to the Senior. The others follow in rotation, which pre⯑ſents to the Eye a Proceſſion of Deer and Sledges; the uncouth figures of men, and utenſils of various kinds and ſhapes, extending from ſeven to eight or nine miles in length.

The Furs, which are purchaſed by the merchants of Tornao and the other Finland Towns, are made into male and female dreſſes, and ſent to Stockholm and other parts of Sweden.

There is no very eſſential difference between this coun⯑try and thoſe of the neighbouring Latitudes. Their fiſh, fowl, and wild animals, are much the ſame, though prefer⯑ence has ſometimes been given to the Finland Fiſh. The Lakes, though of a pacific appearance, and preſenting to [90]the Eye a tranſparent glaſſy ſurface, are often turbulent and ſtormy, ſo that many inſtances have occurred of Veſſels, even of large burthens, being ſhip-wrecked.

The Religion of the Inhabitants of Finland, like thoſe of Lapland, is the Lutheran. But, alas! much is ſtill wanting to make them real Chriſtians. It would be a charitable action, nay I could go farther and ſay, that it is the duty of all the neighbouring Sovereigns to endeavour to inculcate the knowledge of true Chriſtianity into this, yet unenlightened, People. They are not ſeparated by unnavigable Seas, or inacceſſible mountains. Their un⯑derſtandings, though unimproved, are not mean: their tempers, though rough and uncivilized, are yet gentle enough to receive Inſtruction. It would be a glorious act to undertake to civilize this ferocious people. I would not here be underſtood to mean that this is a general deſcrip⯑tion of all ranks of men in this diſtrict of the Globe. I would confine theſe obſervations to the mountain Inhabi⯑tants, for the Inhabitants of their large Towns and other places of trade are not far behind the reſt of the world in the arts of Life, or in the cultivation of Religion.

LETTER XXIV.

THE moſt nothern point to which our Journey ex⯑tended was Tornao, from whence I have endeavour⯑ed to give you ſome account of the Inhabitants of this country. We left that place yeſterday, and though our accommodations were not of the moſt agreeable nature, yet they were rendered tolerable by the civility and po⯑liteneſs with which we were entertained. We had not travelled far, before we were informed, that we might have an opportunity of obſerving a Laplander and his family who were feeding their herd of Rein-deer at no great diſ⯑tance. We got out of the carriage, and walked about the diſtance of an Engliſh mile through a very thick wood where we found their family in a Tent or Hut. This conſiſted of an old man, his wife, a young man and his wife with a very young child, probably about two months old. The infant was moſt curiouſly truſſed up in a cradle [92]or machine, almoſt reſembling a fiddle-caſe, made of the thick bark of a tree, ſo formed that it exactly contained the Babe who was fixed in it with a kind of braſs chain, made ſo portable and light that the mother might eaſily carry it in one hand. This cradle, which is alſo ſome⯑times made of a hollow piece of timber like a ſmall boat, the Lapland women when they travel, tie with the child in it, to their back. The child is not covered with bed clothes, but with a ſoft and fine moſs, over which they lay the tender ſkin of a young Rein-deer. When they rock the child they faſten the cradle with a rope to the top of the Hut, and toſſing it from one ſide to the other, lull the child aſleep. This Lapland family invited us to their tent and offered us their common, and only, fare which conſiſts of deer's milk, and cheeſe made of the ſame milk: occaſionally they eat deer's fleſh, but have no kind of bread. We preſented them in return for their civilities with ſome wine which they ſeemed to reliſh very much, but gave us to underſtand that Brandy would have been more acceptable.

The Laplanders are a ſtrong featured people, low in [93]ſtature, but ſo conſtitutionally hard as to bear the ſeverity of the moſt inclement ſeaſon. Theſe people are gene⯑rally born-in woods, and are frequently upon the ſnow, and wanderers from their birth to their life's end. Their Huts are formed of pieces of timber or rafters joined to⯑gether and covered with turf or the branches or bark of pine trees, ſo that architecture here may be ſaid to appear in its firſt rudiments. Sometimes coarſe cloth makes a part of the covering of their tents. In ſome places, we were told, that their houſes were built upon the trunks of trees, raiſed above the ſurface of the earth, or upon a ſtone foundation, to prevent, in thoſe deſolate regions, their be⯑ing overwhelmed in the enormous drifts of ſnow, or de⯑voured by wild beaſts.

In Summer, the Laplanders wear a cloſe garment which reaches to the middle of their legs girded cloſe about them with a belt. They have no linen, but their clothes are made in general of a coarſe wool without dying; their ſhoes and caps, of the ſkin of the Rein-deer with the hair outwards. In winter their clothes are of ſkin with the [94] hair inwards. The Women's apparel is not very different from that of the men.

It is ſaid that the natives of Lapland are great cowards, and for that reaſon, the Swedes never employ them as Sol⯑diers. How unlike are theſe to the brave Highlanders of Scotland, whoſe courage and intrepidity are as immov⯑able as their mountains! ^*

[95]After feaſting with the Laplanders, we purſued our Journey without intermiſſion till we arrived at Vitan. Here, though our accommodations were miſerable to a great degree, we took a little reſt which we were in great need of. This evening we arrived once more at Pithia where we have been moſt hoſpitably received by the Burgo-maſter, whoſe politeneſs and civility we had before experienced.

LETTER XXV.

WE ordered horſes at four in the morning of the 28th. promiſing ourſelves ſome repaſt upon the road, but no refreſhment of any kind could be obtained till we arrived at Sunnana about four in the afternoon. The Poverty of the country is beyond any thing you can conceive. We ſlept the ſame night at Burea the reſidence of dirt and famine, but quitted it as expeditiouſly as poſible.

On Thurſday the 29th. we breakfaſted at Gumboda another ſeat of miſery and want. Sir H. G. L.'s liberality of three Rix Dollars was here moſt humanely applied and gratefully received by a poor indigent Boor, who had reared a family of ſeven children with hardly any other ſubſiſtence than the Bark of the fir-tree. The ſight of ſuch a ſum, and the poſſeſſion of it alſo, almoſt overcame [97]the poor man: his meagre, penſive and melancholy viſage ſoon brightened up and changed to joy and gladneſs. Thouſands of his countrymen are in the ſame miſerable ſituation.

In the courſe of our Journey this day, after we had paſſed Gumboda, we received an invitation to dine with the Dean of Bögde. Our empty Stomachs could by no means refuſe ſo well timed an invitation. We were re⯑ceived at the door by the Dean and his Lady. The Dean was a portly good looking elderly Gentleman, his Lady young and rather handſome.

After ſome little formal ceremony we were uſhered in⯑to a very handſome apartment and ſet down to what we were now quite ſtrangers to, a good Dinner. The Dean ſpeaking neither French nor Engliſh, accoſted us in Latin. Sir Harry, being the beſt Linguiſt, found out two phraſes which were of great uſe to us, bonum vinum and pone circum. Theſe though a little out of the Dean's depth, he ſoon was made to underſtand, and we profited by his knowledge.

[98]After Coffee, and many expreſſions of thanks to our hoſpitable Dean and his Lady for their unbounded civility, we took our departure and arrived at Uma this evening. In our way we paſſed through a ſmall but pleaſant town called Ojebyn, which was the native place of the celebra⯑ted Doctor Solander. His mother, we were informed, is ſtill living in that place.

LETTER XXVI.

WE left Uma early on the morning of the 30th. but were detained at Dejecnaboda four hours for want of horſes. Having croſſed many rivers and met with various impediments we did not arrive at the town of Anſkt till near ten o'clock, where we intended to take a little refreſhment, but were obliged to content ourſelves with very ſhort commons. Here, alſo, we propoſed ſleep⯑ing; bnt, alas! the want of beds obliged us to travel for the reſt of the night.

The next day about noon we arrived at Veda with a ſtrong inclination to dine but were much diſappointed; famine and dirt having got a prior poſſeſſion of that place. Our mortification was not a little increaſed by being de⯑tained with ſuch diſagreeable companions. We attempt⯑ed to croſs a very large lake in a ſmall boat, but were not [100]able from the inactivity or inexperience of the watermen who were afraid to take charge of the carriage, the wind blowing rather ſtrong. Ferry boats of a large burthen not being uſed here, we were obliged to laſh two ſmall boats together, by which means, though with no ſmall difficulty, the carriage got ſafe over. But our diſtreſſes did not ceaſe here. Either through the wilful negligence of the boors or indolence of our hoſt, no horſes could be pro⯑cured for ſeven hours; this indeed was a further and unex⯑pected intruſion on the ſmall remnant of patience we had left. But time, the ſurmounter of all difficulties, at length releaſed us, and brought us to the town of Hernoſand, a beautiful well built Sea-port of much traffic. Here in⯑deed we fared ſumtuouſly, which produced (I fear for the firſt time) a grateful thankſgiving for what we were going to receive, &c. Great and due commendations I muſt beſtow on the Inn and our Hoſt in particular; every thing being neat, clean and good of its kind; the firſt and only compliment I have hitherto had in my power to pay to a Swediſh Publican.

After a ſhort ſtay at Hernoſand we purſued our Journey [101]towards Sunval where we arrived very late on the 2d. of July. Having ſo many rivers to croſs, and to travel over a mountainous country, we found were great impediments to expedition. A very great drought had prevailed for many weeks and we ſuffered much inconvenience from the heat, but this evening a fine refreſhing rain ſeaſonably relieved us. While we were ſitting at Supper this even⯑ing we were agreeably entertained by ſome Shepherdeſſes who played upon a kind of long trumpet made of the bark of the birch-tree, called in the Swediſh language, Lur. This muſical Inſtrument is ſometimes four yards in length, has a ſtrong and ſharp ſound, and in calm wea⯑ther can be heard at the diſtance of four or five miles. It is generally uſed by the Shepherds in the woods and mountains, and employed by them with much ſucceſs in frightening away wild animals.

LETTER XXVII.

WE ſet out early in the morning from Sunval and arrived the ſame evening at Igſund where we had been ſo hoſpitably entertained on our road to Tornao. The ſame Gentleman politely received us again and we ſlept at his houſe.

From the neighbourhood of this place were the two Lapland Girls taken, who are intended by Sir H. G. L. to be ſent to England, to fulfil a particular Engagement which he had made. As it is my intention afterwards to write you a full account of theſe females, I ſhall paſs over the ſubject at preſent. It will then be in my power to in⯑form you, how they performed their Journey and Voyage, how they were received and treated in England, and by what means they returned to their native country. Cer⯑tain it is, we had no difficulty in perſuading them to un⯑dertake [103]this Enterprize. They immediately accepted our offers and relied with the greateſt confidence on our pro⯑feſſions. As their minds were entirely uncorrupted by the Influence of foreign Intercourſe, as they had never travelled beyond their native mountains, as their return was at leaſt uncertain, it is very remarkable that they ſhould ſo eaſily be prevailed upon to leave their friends and connexions, their Huts and their flocks, to undertake a dangerous, or at leaſt a tedious, Journey and Voyage, to viſit a country of which they were ignorant, and reſide among a People whoſe manners and cuſtoms they could not know. This probably may in ſome meaſure be ac⯑counted for from the poverty of their own country. Yet ſtill we find in the Hiſtory of the human race, an Inclina⯑tion deeply rooted and ſtrong, towards our native home. There is ſomething in the very word Home that fills us with inexpreſſible affection. And if, according to the old Engliſh Maxim, it be ever ſo homely, ſtill our wants and our wiſhes center there.

From theſe thoughts, my friend, you will conclude that my reflections at this moment are turned upon poor [104]OLD ENGLAND. They are indeed. And while I am viewing theſe bleak mountains and barren heaths, while I turn my Eyes upon a large extent of ſandy deſerts or im⯑meaſurable woods, I cannot forbear caſting one Sigh to⯑wards a ſnug retreat amidſt the Cleveland Hills, or the rich plains of the Biſhopric of Durham.

Variety, however, renders all Situations agreeable. It will be ſome pleaſure to me to reflect that I have been in Lapland. Nor can any one deſcribe the comfort ariſing from a good dinner and a bottle of honeſt Port ſo well as he who has been in want of both. Such therefore are the conſolations that may be drawn from the variety of cir⯑cumſtances with which this world abounds. Such I ſup⯑poſe were the expectations of the Lapland Girls when they agreed to accompany us to England.

As our time is not always at our own diſpoſal, as we are ſometimes governed by winds and waves, ſometimes by poſt-boys and poſt-horſes, you muſt forgive me if my Let⯑ters do not always reach a reaſonable length. But believe [105]me, whether in England or in Lapland, whether writing on gilt-edged paper, or on a ſcrap torn from your own Let⯑ters, ſtill I remain faithfully your's.

LETTER XXVIII.

THE Gentleman, whoſe politeneſs I have before re⯑marked, and at whoſe houſe we were ſo hoſpitably entertained at Igſund, propoſed a fiſhing party on the morning of the fourth, on the Lake which is contiguous to his houſe. His Son was ſo obliging as to make one of our company, and do his utmoſt endeavours to entertain us. The Scheme, however, though well intended did not anſwer our expectations of pleaſure. Our Sport was not good; and therefore we exchanged our Entertainment on the water for a good dinner with our hoſpitable hoſt.

In the afternoon, with many Expreſſions of thanks, we took our leave, and continued our Journey. We did not [106]halt till we came to Gefle, near one hundred miles diſtant from Igſund. By diſappointments in procuring horſes, and other impediments, we did not arrive there till the next morning at ten o'clock. After ſo long and fatiguing a Journey, you may imagine, we were greatly in want of reſt. Therefore after taking ſome refreſhment we retired to bed and ſlept till four in the afternoon; then dined, and ſet forwards again a little before one in the morning.

We arrived at Faulund, a town in the province of Dalar⯑na, remarkable for a great copper mine, about nine o'clock at night; after having been confined to our carriage about twenty-eight hours without any ſort of Proviſion what⯑ever and encountering our uſual difficulties with reſpect to poſt-horſes. The indolence and unconcern of the in⯑habitants and people of this place ſurpaſs all conception. After a tedious and tireſome Journey we naturally hoped and looked for ſome refreſhment, eſpecially in ſo large a town, but our expectations were there defeated by a ſuc⯑ceſſion of additional grievances; ſuch as, the want of food, a dirty houſe, a drunken landlord, with many other cir⯑cumſtances equally comfortleſs and diſagreeable.

[107]The town of Faulund is a large, and undoubtedly an opu⯑lent, town, on account of the circulation of money that muſt naturally accrue from the carrying on ſo immenſe and extenſive a work. Theſe copper works are undoubt⯑edly worth the traveller's inſpection. The impoſitions we met with in Faulund and the many delays upon the road from the wilful obſtinacy and incivility of the people, urged us to the diſagreeable neceſſity of making a formal complaint againſt them to the Burgo-maſter, as alſo to the Commandant. Sir H. G. L. ſhewed a very proper and neceſſary ſpirit upon this occaſion.

On the 7th. we arrived at Aveſtadt where there is a cu⯑rious copper work, and alſo the King's mint for coining copper money. The variety of purifications which that metal undergoes, as well as the various proceſſes before it comes to the mint, are well worth obſervation. The Governor of the mint paid us much attention, giving us an invitation to his houſe, and treating us with ſtrong beer, a rare and uncommon beverage in that country! At this place we met the Spaniſh and Dutch Ambaſſadors on a tour through that country, with a very inconſiderable retinue.

LETTER XXIX.

WE arrived at Sahla between two and three o'clock on the morning of the 8th. of July. Near this town there is a conſiderable Silver mine. The Ore from which the metal is extracted reſembles the lead ore in England. Indeed many of the Engliſh lead mines yield a large quantity of Silver. As we are only birds of paſ⯑ſage I had no opportunity of examining the manner of working theſe mines, neither can I give you any account of their produce. We were told that the mine we paſſed near this place is about two hundred and twenty ſix fathoms in depth.

In the laſt diviſion of our Journey we did not travel over inhoſpitable deſerts as before, neither through woods of immeaſurable length, but through a fine rich cultivated country. In ſhort the whole of the road from Fauland [109]to Upſala was pleaſant and agreeable. The Tillage⯑ground appeared to be well wrought and clear of weeds, and to my ſurprize was judiciouſly trenched. The grain principally cultivated was Rye with a little Barley and ſome Wheat. The province of Agriculture is not alto⯑gether intruſted to men as in England. Women here bear their part, and handle the plough, which on that ac⯑count is made very light and ſmall.

In the afternoon we arrived once more at Upſala and loſt no time in viewing this ancient City and Univerſity. This has been a place of Eminence from the earlieſt times of the Swediſh Hiſtory. All the Kings of Sweden before the reformation were crowned and buried here, and here Queen Chriſtina reſigned her Crown in the year 1654. The celebrity of this place indeed in the times of Popery was owing, not ſo much, perhaps, to its being the place of the reſidence of their Kings as of the Archbiſhop: for the Archbiſhops of Upſala frequently made a greater figure than the Kings themſelves, and depoſed them according to their own power and Intereſt.

[110]The City of Upſala is ſituated upon the banks of the ri⯑ver Sala which falls into the Lake Encopen and is about thirty miles north weſt from Stockholm. There is an old Caſtle here built and fortified after the Gothic manner which ſtands high and commands the whole City. In for⯑mer days, this fortreſs was a place of great importance. There are many excellent paintings, medals and other curioſities in the poſſeſſion of the Univerſity. Though Upſala has been for many centuries a place of Eminence, yet the Univerſity was not founded till 1476 when Pope Sixtus Quartus gave it all the privileges of the Univerſity of Bononia. King Guſtavus Adolphus was a great Patron of Learning throughout all his Dominions, and amongſt others was very liberal to this place. He endowed Pro⯑feſſorſhips in moſt Sciences with tolerable Salaries. Theſe received an Augmentation from the Piety and Mu⯑nificence of his daughter the celebrated Chriſtina, whoſe Protection of learned men and Encouragement to every branch of Science is deſervedly extolled. This Princeſs was the Patroneſs of the learned Grotius whom ſhe called to Sweden, made him one of her counſellors and ſent him Ambaſſador to Lewis XIII. After he had diſcharged the [111]Duties of his Employment he ſet out from France to give an account of his Embaſſy to his royal Miſtreſs. He met Queen Chriſtina at Stockholm, and after he had diſ⯑courſed with her about the affairs he had been entruſted with; he moſt humbly begged of her to grant him his diſmiſſion. This, he had much difficulty to obtain, though this Princeſs gave him ſeveral marks of her great Eſteem for him. She invited Carteſius to Sweden, and was never more happy than in the Promotion of Piety and Learning. So long as Upſala is remembered, Lin⯑naeus, whom I have once before mentioned, will not be forgotten. The King himſelf bore teſtimony to his merits in a public Speech which he made ſoon after the Death of that truly celebrated man.

I muſt not forget to mention the venerable Cathedral at this place, in which lie entombed the ancient Kings of Sweden. This is a very magnificent Structure. In it is an excellent Organ, very beautifully ornamented; there is alſo a Clock very juſtly mentioned by all Hiſtorians of Upſala, as a particular Curioſity. It ſhews not only the [112]day, hour and minute but alſo the remarkable motions of the heavenly bodies; and beſides theſe, it tells every feſti⯑val, whether fixed or moveable, with many other ſingu⯑larly curious operations. Near the Altar the Remains of King Eric ſtand incloſed in a Silver gilt box, where they have reſted quietly and undiſturbed upwards of three hundred years. Tradition ſays he was ſlain by the Danes, in a battle, upon a Sunday. The Enemy ap⯑proached Upſala when the King was at his devotions in the Cathedral. He would not move till the Service was over, when he found the greateſt part of the City in the hands of the Enemy. He made an aſſault, and though he ſell, his People were victorious.

LETTER XXX.

YESTERDAY about ſix in the morning we re-entered the metropolis of Sweden, not a little rejoiced to find ourſelves once more in a civilized country. Our firſt care was to enjoy ſome of thoſe comforts we had been ſo long deprived of. A refreſhing ſleep, with clean ſheets, were charms not to be reſiſted. You will not therefore be ſurprized that we indulged moſt of that day in bed. In the afternoon, as it was Sunday, we attended divine Service in the King's Chapel, but could not expect much edification from our ignorance of the language. The Preacher ſeemed very much animated in the delivery of his Sermon which continued almoſt an hour.

Our continuance at Stockholm lays us under great ob⯑ligations to Sir Thomas Wroughton, who has given orders to his Secretary to attend us upon ſeveral Excurſions, particularly to Drottingholm Palace, which is well worth [114]the ſtranger's notice. We paſſed the lake Meller in the Admiral's barge, which Sir Thomas had procured us for the occaſion. This Palace is a ſtately fabric, ſituated on the banks of the lake Meller; the Gardens, though extenſive, did not impreſs us with the Idea of Royalty. They are very much neglected and laid out in the Dutch taſte, which began to prevail in England in the time of King William. I muſt own I was equally diſappointed in the Paintings. Though I pretend not to be any great connoiſſeur myſelf in this agreeable art, yet I could diſcern that they were more adapted to an attic ſtory or lumber garret than to be uſed as the ornamental decorations of a Royal Palace.

There is at this place a very curious collection of An⯑tiquities by the late Queen Dowager, particularly from the ruins of Herculaneum, with other Roman curioſities. There is alſo a well collected Library, which does the royal Foundreſs much credit. This Palace is the favorite Summer reſidence of his preſent Majeſty; I was there⯑fore the more aſtoniſhed to ſee ſo little attention paid, to render it neat and comfortable.

LETTER XXXI.

THE City of Stockholm, though at preſent the Metro⯑polis of the Kingdom of Sweden, was, not many centuries ago, a place of no great importance. Indeed we are told, that not much above three hundred years ſince, it was only an Iſland with two or three cottages for Fiſh⯑ermen: but upon building a Caſtle here to watch the motions of their Ruſſian neighbours, and afterwards the Court making this a place of reſidence, it was raiſed by de⯑grees to its preſent ſtate of Proſperity. This Caſtle was burnt down about a century ago, but has been rebuilt in a more magnificent manner.

The City at preſent extends itſelf over ſix Iſlands, which are connected together by bridges, with very ex⯑tenſive Suburbs. The rocks, particularly towards the Sea, form a ſort of natural fortification. The Harbour [116]is very large and commodious, and will contain one thouſand ſail of Ships. But with all its conveniences as a harbour, the utility of its ſituation is diminiſhed from the difficulty of communication with the Sea. The lake Meller falls from it into the Baltic; but the paſſage having ſo many windings, and the circumſtance of there being no tides to aſſiſt the navigation of the Ships, renders it very difficult of acceſs. And if to this we add, that for four months at leaſt in every year they are frozen up, theſe circumſtances will be found great impediments to Com⯑merce. The Population of the capital of Sweden is reckoned at about one hundred thouſand Souls. The Caſtle, which is uſed as an arſenal, as well as for the lodgings of the Officers, is a large building, and covered with copper, as ſeveral buildings are in Stockholm, from the many Copper-mines with which this country abounds.

I am unable to inform you of the exact produce of the copper and iron mines of Sweden; doubtleſs it muſt be very large both to the proprietors and the King who receives about a fourth part. Yet notwithſtanding the large Income of the Crown, it is by no means equal to [117]the annual Expences of the Government.—The Market which is held at Stockholm is a circumſtance I muſt not omit. The Butcher-meat is ſold in ſhambles on the ſhore, while Vegetables and other marketable commodities are expoſed to ſale in boats upon the water. This is at once a ſingular and pleaſing ſight. The moving Shops and va⯑riety of wares that are paſſing before your eyes, the buſy mixed multitude which croud the ſurface of the water, render this a very agreeable Scene. Something of this kind may be ſeen in the Thames upon the arrival of a large fleet in the Pool.

In Stockholm, as in other cold countries, the cuſtom of drinking Spirits prevails rather too much. Even Ladies, who by no means deſerve an improper Epithet, comply with this pernicious cuſtom. It is uſual in this country, previous to dinner, for the company to aſſemble round the Side-board, and to regale themſelves with bread, but⯑ter, cheeſe, or any thing of that nature, which preface is regularly followed in both ſexes by a bumper of brandy. This cuſtom in the fair ſex reminds me of a ſet of Rules [118]which I have ſeen for the regulation of a Ruſſian Aſſem⯑bly. It concludes with this remarkable Injunction—"N. B. Ladies are not to be drunk before ten o'clock."

I had occaſion in a former letter to mention the diſtil⯑leries of this kingdom. I cannot omit, though a circum⯑ſtance I never before heard of, to inform you that Grain is not the only ingredient uſed in Sweden for the diſtilling of Spirits. The low priced Brandies are made from Rye and Ants, a ſpecies of Inſect very plentiful in this country. Upon enquiry I find, that "Ants ſupply a Reſin, an Oil and an Acid, which have been deemed of conſiderable ſer⯑vice in the art of Phyſic." ^* The Ant uſed upon theſe oc⯑caſions is a remarkably large black Inſect, commonly found in ſmall round hills at the bottom of the fir-tree. It is leſs to be wondered that they ſhould uſe theſe Inſects in their diſtilleries than that they ſhould eat them and conſider them as highly palatable and pleaſant. As I was walking with a young Gentleman in a wood near Gotten⯑burg, I obſerved him ſit down upon one of theſe living hills, which from the nature of its inhabitants I ſhould ra⯑ther have avoided, and begin with ſome degree of keen⯑neſs [119]to devour theſe Inſects, firſt nipping off their heads and wings. The ſlavour he declared was of the fineſt acid, rather reſembling that of a Lemon. My young friend in⯑treated me much to follow his example, but I could not overcome the antipathy which I felt to ſuch a kind of food.

LETTER XXXII.

WHEN I left this place a month ago, I promiſed, on my return, to lay before you ſuch reflections as might happen to occur. I ſhall therefore, like a man of my word, proceed to fulfil that promiſe and, as Dogberry ſays in the Play, "beſtow all my tediouſneſs upon you."

I have paſſed ſo large a tract of country during the laſt few weeks that you will naturally expect to hear ſome⯑thing of the Agriculture of Sweden. If the knowledge of Agriculture could be learned, or by any means attained by the Swediſh Peaſants; and the large and almoſt unlim⯑mited [120]tracts of ground be unincumbered of wood, which I have no doubt might be effected by time and induſtry, what a bleſſed change might be wrought in the ſace of this country! The quality of the Soil appears in general no way inferior to ours in England; there is no reaſon therefore to ſuppoſe but that the common method of Eng⯑liſh huſbandry would equally promote and produce the like vegetation in Sweden.

One day when we were at dinner with Sir Thomas Wroughton, where agriculture and improvements were the topic of converſation, I could not help regretting that ſo very large a tract of improvable ground, as I had lately paſſed over, ſhould be ſuffered to continue in ſo rude and uncultivated a ſtate, which by the hand of the induſtrious ploughman might become rich and fertile. It is too true replied a Swediſh Gentleman preſent, but indolence and inactivity are the conſtitutional failings of my countrymen, and may probably be aſcribed to the ſeverity of the cli⯑mate in which we live. We enjoy no mediocrity of ſea⯑ſon; there is here no Spring or natural progreſſive [121]warmth to introduce Summer, neither any Autumn, or gradual decreaſe of heat which might temper the habit againſt ſo ſudden a tranſition to an inclement Winter. Each Seaſon from its intenſeneſs deprives the body of its proper and neceſſary exertion. This produces ina⯑bility and habitual indolence. But though the produc⯑tions of this country are comparatively ſo very inſignifi⯑cant, yet are they more ſpeedy in their growth than perhaps any other part of the world. The Sun is eighteen hours and a half above the horizon for ſome weeks. This in a great meaſure excludes night, and the heat of the Sun multiplies in proportion to its duration.

LETTER XXXIII.

ARCHITECTURE, as well as other arts and ſciences, is at this day in Sweden at leaſt a century behind England. I muſt not, however, omit obſerving their method of building bridges over their broadeſt and deep⯑eſt rivers, ſeveral of which we paſſed in our Excurſion to the northern parts of this kingdom. They are undoubt⯑edly tremendous to the ſtranger, who might imagine with ſome kind of dread that inſtead of meaſuring the breadth of the waters he is about to croſs, he would firſt be obli⯑ged to ſathom the depth. They have no quay or wall on either ſide of the river on which to form a baſis for ſuch a building, it is therefore curiouſly and well conſtructed in this manner. The thickeſt end of a thick piece of timber, the length and ſhape of the maſt of a large ſhip, is faſtened to the rock or mountain, the other end extended on the [123]water; a ſecond timber of the ſame length is placed upon it, extending a fathom beyond it, and ſo a third, and ſourth, to the middle of the ſtream, where it meets with another ſeries of timber-maſts from the oppoſite ſide, and this without any cement, but merely reſting upon each other; ſo that in paſſing this, as it were, floating bridge, the elaſticity is ſometimes ſo great that about the middle it appears to ſwing and the weight of either horſe or car⯑riage dips it under the ſurface of the water; a circuſtance ſo tremendous and apparently dangerous, that a perſon unaccuſtomed to ſuch bridges may well imagine that it will riſe no more. I have frequently ſeen travellers ſtop and water their horſes on the middle of the bridge when they already touch the water from the ſubſiding of the platform. When freed from the weight of the carriage or paſſenger it immediately riſes to its proper height.

Were it not for the intenſe cold and drifted ſnow, a paſſage over the rivers and lakes in winter would be as much more commodious for the traveller, as it is for the buſineſs and intercourſe of the inhabitants, who are ſafely [124]conveyed over the ice in ſledges at the rate of fifteen Engliſh miles an hour.

I have often obſerved in this country, though in ſo high a northern latitude, eſpecially near towns, without even the benefit of manure, a rich natural herbage, from whence it is obvious that graſs and tillage don't de⯑light both in the ſame climate, as there is often very little corn and that of a very inferior quality, where graſs is both plentiful and luxuriant. As for the eſculent pro⯑ductions of Gardens, theſe they have neither taſte nor in⯑duſtry for, nor even curioſity to promote; except indeed a kind of turnip, which is uſeful in their ſoups, tobacco, and flax, which I have obſerved in ſmall quantities near huts and cottages. This, I think, is the utmoſt extent of their improvements in Agriculture.

LETTER XXXIV.

IN the northern parts of Sweden fruit-trees ſeldom or ever arrive at any degree of perfection, but the inex⯑hauſtible Foreſts liberally compenſate that defect. Even the moſt barren mountains are ſingularly productive of trees, more particularly of the pine tree, which will ſhoot from the ſmalleſt fiſſures of the rocks and thrive much bet⯑ter than when carefully planted in a good ſoil. The fir⯑tree thrives beſt in an independent ſituation (if I may be allowed the expreſſion) when the ſeeds are ſcattered abroad by the keen northern blaſt. This is the eaſieſt method of propagating this tree, and the moſt likely way to make it flouriſh. Collect the cones which contain the ſeed, hang them up till perfectly dry, then commit the ſeed which is ſmall and light, to the ſpontaneous diſtribution of the wind. There is a peculiar moſs adherent to thoſe trees which in winter and the deepeſt ſnows is a natural provender to the rein-deer: its quality is of the ſame nature with that [126]which grows upon the rocks on the barren ſummits of the mountains. For this reaſon when the ſnow is impenetra⯑bly frozen in the ſevere winter, the boors are obliged to cut down ſome thouſands of thoſe moſs-cloathed trees for the ſuſtenence of their herds.

LETTER XXXV.

IN the Citadel we were ſhewn a ſet of ſmall Ordnance which belonged to King Charles XII. conſiſting of four and twenty braſs cannon mounted on their carriages. Very early in Life, before his Love of Deſtruction had occaſioned ſo many wild adventures, he uſed to amuſe himſelf with firing at objects with this artillery. Proba⯑bly it would have been happier for him, as well as his country, if he had been always thus innocently employed. General Stenbork was the Prince's Inſtructor in this Sci⯑ence. He had diſcovered ſeveral Improvements in the art of Gunnery, and got this ſet of braſs cannon caſt to illuſtrate his principles to his royal Pupil, for whom he intended them as a preſent.

[127]There is an Anecdote related of this Prince which hap⯑pened at the time of his receiving this preſent. As it in ſome meaſure had an influence on his future conduct to⯑wards the Ladies, I will tell it you, without, however, vouching for its authenticity. Very early the next morn⯑ing after he had received this preſent, before it was light, he waited privately upon the General. After much knock⯑ing, the door was opened by a Maid Servant and in a few moments the royal viſitor was at the bed-ſide of the Ge⯑neral. After returning thanks for ſo acceptable a preſent, and a long diſcourſe on the General's new plan of ſending a cannon ball to its greateſt diſtance, he took his leave, and was lighted down ſtairs by the ſame maid ſervant that introduced him.

Though unaccuſtomed to acts of Gallantry, and always upon his guard againſt Exceſſes of this kind, yet for once Charles was ſurprized by an amourous Inclination. Ob⯑ſerving the attendant to be a young and handſome Girl he attempted to take ſome liberties with her which were not agreeable. Being a native of Dahlarna, and not [128]knowing, or pretending not to know the Prince, ſhe gave him an hearty box on the Ear. From this time, it is ſaid, [...]e took a diſlike to the Fair-ſex: it is certain that he ne⯑ver afterwards ſought their ſociety. Even the beautiful Lady Koningſmark, who was reckoned the handſomeſt woman of that time, could never make any impreſſion upon his heart. When this Lady found herſelf ſlighted by him, ſhe left the Kingdom, and became Miſtreſs to the King of Poland.

From that time they never met but once; when that was, I think I will inform you, as I am now in the hu⯑mour for telling a Story. At the time King Charles XII. laid Siege to Warſaw, he, with very few attendants, left the camp and rode privately to the City to ſee an Opera which was to be repreſented that evening. The Subject probably had attracted him, and he did not always conſi⯑der the conſequences of a raſh action; this was the re⯑preſentation of a Battle between the Poliſh and Swediſh Armies, the former of which upon this occaſion was cer⯑tain of ſucceſs. At the end of the Mock-fight one of [129]the Swediſh Officers exclaimed "We are undone now": the King replied, "Let the Poles obtain the Battle on the Stage but the Swedes in the Field." His voice was heard by Lady Koningſmark, who knew him at once, and with great anxiety diſpatched a Page to apprize him of his danger. When the King received the Meſſage he looked towards the Lady, who immediately fainted. The King and his attendants took the hint which had been ſo kindly given them, and returned to the Camp, before the Poles gained the leaſt intelligence that that auguſt Perſon had been preſent in the very heart of their City, as an humble Spectator of the defeat of himſelf and his Army.

LETTER XXXVI.

WE left Stockholm on the evening of the 17th. and ſlept at Soder-telge a ſmall town two ſtages from the metropolis. The next morning our road lay through a very fine ſertile country with large luxuriant fields of corn and other tillage. They were making hay in the meadows which ſeemed to yield very plentiful crops. The roads in general are not unlike thoſe of Lapland, paſſing through very extenſive foreſts, over rocks and ſteep hills. We were much delayed by the King's retinue which was then upon the road. All the poſt-horſes, &c. were engaged for their conveyance which prevented our arrival at Nordkoping till two in the morning.

This is one of the largeſt and beſt built Towns in the Swediſh dominions, pleaſantly ſituated on the banks of a beautiful lake. Notwithſtanding which it could not ſo much [131]as afford either tolerable proviſion or any comfortable accommodation. Happy were we to find beds, though bad ones; to theſe we retired like Philoſophers with the old proverb in our mouths, "What cannot be cured" &c. We took our departure ſo early the next morning from the famous town of Nordkoping, that I lamented much that we were not able to examine it with more attention, as what I ſaw in paſſing through appeared truly beautiful.

It ſtands upon a large ſpace of ground; a beautiful river runs through the middle of it; though not navigable, yet it has a commercial appearance. Upon enquiry I found it was not remarkable for trade or any particular manufactory. There are many ſhops and neat well built houſes; the ſtreets are ſpacious and regular, but like the reſt of the Swediſh towns it is ill-paved. The churches are lofty and magnificent.

After paſſing through the town, which took up ſome time, we entered a moſt delightful country, and were [132]agreeably ſurprized to find Proſpects around us which brought to our remembrance Old England. We were treated with many noble views not inferior to thoſe of Richmond or Windſor; large fields of luxuriant corn; hills richly cloathed with lofty trees, eſpecially oaks of an uncommon ſize. The beautiful and large lake Wetter, along the ſide of which we travelled, extends itſelf for ſeveral miles, with many pleaſant villages on its banks. There is in the center of this lake an Iſland fourteen or fifteen miles long, which forms one complete pariſh and is a moſt delightful place of reſidence. This night we ſpent at Nordkoping from whence I write.

LETTER XXXVII.

ON the 20th. we continued our Journey through a fine country, with delightful views, for near five Swediſh miles; after which we entered woods, with a ſwampy country on each ſide. Our delays have been ſo frequent for want of horſes that we have been obliged to travel inceſ⯑ſantly night and day, and to compleat our diſtreſſes fre⯑quently have not been able to procure any refreſhment. We were not ſo provident as other travellers who are ac⯑quainted with the miſeries of ſuch a country as this, and carry their proviſion along with them. The next day we paſſed through extenſive woods which continued for ma⯑ny miles; the oaks in particular ſeemed to be remarkably fine and of much antiquity. It is ſomewhat extraordinary that they are not converted to ſome uſeful purpoſe, as every oak in Sweden is the property of the King whoſe poverty frequently demands aſſiſtance from his Subjects.

As many travellers were at this time upon the road, the [134]proviſions which, at the beſt, are but ſcanty, were all con⯑ſumed before our arrival at the ſeveral ſtages, ſo that from ſix on friday morning the 21ſt. we travelled till ſaturday morning without food or ſleep, except a very ſmall por⯑tion (accidentally met with) of hard ſalt Swediſh beef. Delicious morſel! and of great relief after ſo long a faſt. Our additional troubles were, as uſual, want of horſes as well as want of beds.

About eleven in the morning of Saturday the 2d. we arrived at Helſingborg a pretty town garriſoned by Swe⯑diſh Huzzars and ſituated on the ſide of the narrow Streight, known by the name of the Sound, on the coaſt oppoſite Elſinore. There is a ſmall ſortified Caſtle at this place, in which, as I was informed, there is a Dungeon an hundred and ſeventy five feet deep. In this diſmal priſon many of the Daniſh Nobility were confined and numbers of them ſuffered to periſh during the long and deſtructive Wars between thoſe neighbouring Kingdoms.

The Governor very politely waited upon us and gave [135]us an invitation to his houſe, which time would not per⯑mit us to accept. After ſome ſmall refreſhment we em⯑barked for Denmark in a ſmall veſſel, croſſed the Sound and landed at Elſinore, a place of Trade and garriſoned.

There was much ſuperfluous trouble and parade in ex⯑amining our paſſport as well as baggage. The magnificent Caſtle of Cronenburg ſtands alone by the Sea, to guard the paſſage. It will excite a ſigh in the Breaſt of an Eng⯑liſhman when he views this Caſtle, to reflect that here was confined a few years ago the Siſter of his Sovereign, Ma⯑tilda, the unfortunate Queen of Denmark. It is now inha⯑bited by the Queen Dowager of Denmark who generally makes it the place of her Summer reſidence. The Paſſage of the Sound is about three miles in a direct line between the oppoſite ſhores of Sweden and Denmark. All Veſſels that ſail up and down the Baltic pay a toll at this place to the King of Denmark, and lower their top-ſails as they paſs the Caſtle of Cronenburg. This tribute is not ſo much paid from any fear of the cannon of this fortreſs, as from immemorial cuſtom, and the general Law of Nations.

[136]Having ſome Letters of recommendation to Mr. Fen⯑wick the Conſul's Brother, we dined with him and immedi⯑ately after ſet out for Copenhagen where we arrived at nine that night. We experienced much inconvenience again and trouble in entering the town, undergoing a moſt ſtrict ſearch by officers both civil and military.

LETTER XXXVIII.

THE road from Elſinore for near five miles is exceed⯑ingly rough and ill-made, though the beſt materials are to be found within half a mile. When you come from the Sea coaſt, to, what is called, the King's road, it is remarkably broad and well made, but is in great want of that fine gravel which is a moſt excellent covering to the Swediſh roads. Upon your entering the great road, the Eye ſeldom or never wants entertainment till you ar⯑rive at Copenhagen. The diſtant and nearer views are equally amuſing. The country is rich, fertile, and lux⯑uriantly embelliſhed with villages, delightful gardens, tea⯑drinking places, &c. Copenhagen is a handſome well built town, and notwithſtanding its diſadvantageous ſitua⯑tion, which is in a flat marſhy country, yet is there a magnificent appearance in moſt of the ſtructures. The King's Palace eſpecially has a diſtinguiſhing royalty which ſtrikes the ſtranger's eye. Their Churches are neat [138]and not quite ſo gaudily decorated as thoſe of the Swedes. The Women are fair, well made, and not unlike the Eng⯑liſh. Not far from Copenhagen is an Iſland called Amak inhabited by a ſingular people, originally Dutch, but now living under the Daniſh Government. They were placed here by Elizabeth wiſe of Chriſtian II. and ſiſter of the Emperor Charles V. for the purpoſe of ſupplying her with vegetables and country fare. They wear one uniform of coarſe black cloth. The habits of the women are of the ſame colour, with caps of uncommon form and moſt cu⯑riouſly plaited. They pay a tax to the King for that pe⯑culiarity of dreſs, though it is of their own manufactory. They are a moſt laborious, induſtrious and uſeful ſet of people, indefatigable in the culture of Gardens, on which they principally depend for ſupport. They appear, and wiſh to be thought, poor, but from their induſtry have become an independent people.

The manners and cuſtoms of the Danes differ much from their neighbours, though ſeparated only by the Sound. Denmark greatly exceeds Sweden in the cultivation of land, [139]their breed of horſes (which are of the Holſtein kind) and in many other advantages which they enjoy. Yet I am told by very good authority (the Conſul of Elſinore) that they are obliged to the Swedes for the greateſt part of their Cattle which they privately ſmuggle. This is very extra⯑ordinary and could hardly be credited from the appear⯑once of each country. Theſe two near neighbours, like other contiguous ſtates, cordially hate each other. They avoid all kind of intercourſe except when Intereſt interferes; that they pay as much attention to as any Hol⯑lander whatever. The Danes in general ſeem of a phlegmatic conſtitution and are very obſtinate; a quality which we fully experienced in our poſting through that country. The driver indeed is not ſo much to be blamed as he has the ſanction of the police to travel only at the rate of five miles an hour, but a worſe privilege is that of ſtopping where and when he pleaſes, ſo that you are total⯑ly at the mercy of an obſtinate drone, whom nothing can enliven but the touch of a daniſh ducat. The King is now diſqualified from holding the reins of Government, that power is for the moſt part inveſted in the young Prince and Council. The Prince of Denmark is much and [140]deſervedly reſpected by his people. He conducts himſelf with great affability and judgement. His chief amuſe⯑ments, and thoſe in which he takes great pleaſure, are mi⯑litary Maneuvres. Neither is Literature without a ſhare in the Attention of this amiable Character. No ſmall part of his own private Fortune is deſtined to the promo⯑tion of learning and the Encouragement of learned men. This is a ſingular Inſtance in the Hiſtory of Nations; and there is great reaſon to hope that the beautiful appearance of this riſing Sun will be ſucceeded by a full blaze of meridian Splendor.

The Soldiers in general are well choſen men; the Officers exceedingly polite and well bred; their uni⯑forms reſemble thoſe of the Engliſh, which is alſo the caſe in their diſcipline.

LETTER XXXIX.

THE King of Denmark has ſeven different Palaces, but few of them affording a very royal appearance. Co⯑penhagen is generally his place of winter reſidence, Fre⯑derickſburg of his ſummer. Since the Prince of Denmark has taken a ſhare in the Government of this Kingdom, the Queen Dowager has not been allowed to appear at Court, except upon public days. It is ſaid that when ſhe com⯑plained of being obliged to reſide in the Caſtle of Cronen⯑burg, her Grandſon replied, that there had been a time when ſhe did not think it an improper place of reſidence for his Mother.

The City of Copenhagen is interſected by canals, ſo that merchandize can be brought to the doors of the ware⯑houſes. Commerce flouriſhes here exceedingly, and the Harbour, which is a good one, is generally well filled with Ships.

[142]The reformed religion of Luther is the religion of the State. They are very punctual in the performance of all religious duties, and attend public worſhip with uncommon ſtrictneſs and aſſiduity. The Churches are kept open at particular times, and a Clergyman conſtantly in waiting to adminiſter the Sacrament to the ſick, to give comfort to the afflicted or perform any of the other duties of his function. The Clergy preach extempore and lead very exemplary Lives. Their whole dependence and ſupport are in the hands of Government; of courſe they often act with too much Servility and pay too much Submiſſion to the court. They are held in high veneration by the com⯑mon people, over whom they ſometimes exerciſe too great an authority.

The Danes are very ſtrict in their Police, and act with great Severity againſt all thoſe who are guilty of frauds or miſdemeanors. Even the tongue, that unruly member, muſt be guarded with great care, for they will not ſuffer it to be uſed licentiouſly againſt the State, or in any political matter. Murder and Manſlaughter are puniſhed in [142]Denmark by decapitation. Burglaries and petty thefts are not common; and you may walk the ſtreets at all hours of the night or day, without any moleſtation.

Agriculture would flouriſh better if it were better en⯑couraged. The oppreſſion, however, which the farmer meets with from the owner of his lands entirely damps the Spirit of Improvement. They ſucceed extremely well in the breed of Horſes, which are a contraſt to thoſe of Sweden, being from ſixteen to ſeventeen hands high.

Literature flouriſhes at Copenhagen. There is a very good and well endowed Univerſity, as well as an Academy of Sciences. I muſt not omit to mention the Obſervatory or round Tower which was built by the order of Chriſ⯑tian IV. who laid the firſt ſtone himſelf in 1637. It was finiſhed in 1642 and called Uraniburg, being built inſtead of that of the ſame name belonging to the celebrated Aſtronomer Tycho Brahe in the Iſle of Hu [...]n, which was demoliſhed in his reign. The top of this Tower is flat, ſurrounded with iron rails; the aſcent to it is fifteen foot [143]broad, and ſo eaſy that it is not exaggeration to ſay that a coach may go up it. The Danes called it Stelleburg, from the uſe for which it was intended. There is a Muſeum here containing many curioſities both of nature and art.

The Government of Denmark is an hereditary Monar⯑chy. Its military Eſtabliſhment about forty thouſand men. The Laws of this kingdom deſerve the admiration and imitation of all other States. They are contained in one volume of no great bulk, and are eaſily underſtood by the very meaneſt of the People. Juſtice here is of a very ſum⯑mary nature. A man's fortune can neither be diminiſhed nor his heart broken by a tedious Law-ſuit. The deter⯑mination of no ſuit, however great its importance, can be protracted beyond one year and a month. For this rea⯑ſon the number of Lawyers in this country is but ſmall. There are three Courts in Denmark: the City or Town court, from whence there lies an appeal to the county, and from that to the high court in Copenhagen where the King is ſuppoſed to preſide. There is one circumſtance however, attending this from which a free People cannot [144]but revolt, that is, the King, or his counſellors, can alter or explain any matter of diſpute, according to his, or their, pleaſure. Better therefore is it, to be ſubject to all the Prolixity, as well as Perplexity, of Law, than to have our Property and Perſons dependent on the Nod of, perhaps, a capricious Tyrant, or intereſted Judges.

The Nobility, though they reſigned their power to the Crown, ſtill exerciſe great authority over the Peaſantry, whom they keep in a ſtate of vaſſalage. It were to be wiſh⯑ed that this ſpecies of oppreſſion might be entirely explo⯑ded in all the kingdoms of the continent as it is in our own. The Cultivators of land would then riſe to a proper im⯑portance in the Scale of Subjects. Then would they feel their conſequence; Agriculture would be purſued with diligence and their toil would be crowned with ſucceſs.

LETTER XL.

AFTER leaving the Daniſh territories, which we did on the 28th. we landed at Helſingborg. Being now once more on Swediſh ground and no longer ſubject to the tedious obſtinacy of Daniſh poſt-boys, we uſed our utmoſt exertions to reach Gottenburg, which we accom⯑pliſhed on Saturday the 29th. which compleated our tra⯑vels by land, after a Journey of three thouſand ſeven hun⯑dred and eighty four miles, the greater part of which was over a barren unfrequented tract of country. No little reaſon had we to rejoice and be thankful, conſidering the many difficulties we had both experienced and ſurmount⯑ed, when we found ourſelves once more placed in a land of hoſpitality and comfort without having had a viſitation of Sickneſs, or any other material cauſe of regret.

From Saturday the 29th. of July to the 12th. of Auguſt [146]we were wind bound at Gottenburg, during which time we experienced a repetition of civilities from our moſt hoſpitable friends there. On the 12th. of Auguſt we re⯑embarked on board the Gottenburg-merchant Captain Fothergill, weighed anchor at nine in the morning and dropt down the river, but for want of a fair wind we were obliged to anchor above the caſtle. The next day the wind coming favorable we got under way, put to Sea with a fine breeze and continued our courſe with a freſh gale. The weather being hazy we did not fall in with the Eng⯑liſh land till Thurſday morning about twelve, when we made Tynmouth caſtle and got into Shields about ſix; ſet off for Ravenſworth where we arrived at ten that night.

Thus, my friend, I have brought you back to the point from whence we at firſt ſet out. I ought here to thank you for the patience with which you have attended to my tedious recital. If I have not added much to the ſtock of Information, you muſt not be diſappointed, as you may remember, I did not promiſe a great deal when we ſet forward. With reſpect to myſelf, the Journey has [147]anſwered all my Expectations. It has opened a new Scene, and given a variety to proſpects, which, before, I could enjoy only in Idea.

We have beheld human nature under her rudeſt ap⯑pearances: we have ſeen her in a State very different from that which appears in cities or at courts, and have been enabled to draw concluſions from the varieties of Life. Pleaſure too, has not been wanting in our Excurſion. Proſpects pleaſing and romantic, the roaring cataract and high projecting cliff, the large and beautiful lakes, the mountains ſtretching to the clouds, and the extenſive foreſts, like the Shifting Scenes in a Theatre, appeared in an agreeable Succeſſion before our Eyes. And if we have ſometimes encountered dangers, and been deprived of comforts, the Leſſon we have been taught by this Excurſion is, always to be contented with ſuch Enjoy⯑ments as we actually poſſeſs.