CHAP. I. Of the Country in general.

GREENLAND is the remoteſt tract of land in the north; it lies between Europe and America, and is commonly claſſed, by geographers, among thoſe northern countries, that remain unknown. As far as it has been diſcovered, it has been found to reach, on the north-eaſt ſide, from the 59th degree, N. latitude, to the 80th; and, on the ſide oppoſite North-America, to about the 70th degree.—It belongs to the crown of Denmark.

No ſhip having as yet traced it to the moſt north⯑ern parts, on account of the ice, it is not yet decided, whether it be an iſland, or not. From ſome late diſco⯑veries of the Ruſſians, it does not appear to join on the eaſt with Spitzbergen, Nova Zembla, or Tartary; but, [6] is ſuppoſed to join America, on the north-weſt; be⯑cauſe the ſea that apparently parts them, and is called Davis's Streights, or Baſſin's Bay, grows gradually nar⯑rower, as it approaches the 78th degree; and becauſe the coaſt, which riſes very high towards that bay, falls lower and lower, the further north we go. The Green⯑landers, indeed, ſay (though it is doubtful how far they can be relied on), that Davis's Streight contracts itſelf ſo much, as it tends northward, that they can travel on the ice, ſo near to the oppoſite ſhore, as to be able to make the inhabitants hear; but, that they can⯑not get acroſs, owing to the ſtrength of the current from the north.

Icelandic authors have deſcribed Old Greenland, on the eaſtern ſide, as crowded with churches and villages; and, they might have ſaid the ſame of the weſtern ſide, oppoſite to America; for, that the old Norwegians, or people of Norway, had houſes and churches there alſo, is evident, from the many veſtiges of them now to be found.

When ſeamen ſpeak of Greenland, they generally mean the Daniſh iſlands of Spitzbergen, lying north of Lapland, between the 75th and 80th degrees of lati⯑tude, with the eaſtern coaſt of Greenland, lying oppoſite thereto. This eaſtern coaſt is but thinly, if at all, in⯑habited at preſent; but the weſtern ſide of Greenland, from the 62d to the 71ſt degree, north, is again colo⯑nized [7] by Europeans. The iſlands of Spitzbergen are uninhabited, except during the ſeaſon of the whale⯑fiſhery. Some few Dutchmen were once left there a whole winter, but they all periſhed. The globe is here ſo round, that even at the diſtance of ſix miles, in a calm, ſailing eaſt or weſt, the maſts of a ſhip only are diſcoverable: at eight miles, no other part can be ſeen, than the top-maſt; and, at 12 miles diſtance, the flag only; yet, the mountains of Spitzbergen, riſe ſo high, as to be ſeen 48 miles.—Lord Mulgrave, in his voyage to the north-pole, coaſted round them.

The land, on the weſtern ſide of Greenland, is bar⯑ren, high and rocky, and rears its head, in moſt places adjoining the ocean, in ſuch lofty mountains, and in⯑acceſſible cliffs, as may be ſeen at ſea, at the diſtance of 40 leagues. The cliffs and mountains being con⯑ſtantly covered with ice and ſnow, theſe, by continually falling, have filled the vallies, and ſeem, annually, to increaſe their height. The plains, between the rocks, are alſo covered with froſt, except here and there a patch, where there is a ſcanty portion of earth and graſs, an occaſional little brook and pond, and ſome few, low, ſcattered ſhrubs.

Along the coaſts, in Davis's Streights and Baffin's Bay, which is the ſea that divides Greenland from the northern coaſts of America, there are numberleſs, deep, bays and creeks, that run up far within the land; and, [8] the ſhores are bordered with many iſlands of dif⯑ferent extent. To thoſe who have ſeen the Norway coaſt, we may ſay, this of Greenland is not un⯑like it; except, that the hills here are not cloathed with trees, nor the vallies enriched with herbage, and, that the mountains are every where high and pointed.

Within land, there are no inhabitants, and but very few upon the coaſt. The few there are, inhabit the ſouthern parts from Statenhook, to the 62d degree; but, as no Europeans live there, theſe places are but little known to us.

Of the European ſettlements, the moſt ſouthern is the colony of Frederic's Haab, or Frederic's Hope, ſituated in the 62d degree of north latitude, begun by the Danes, in 1742. It lies one mile and an half from the open ſea, and is a good haven, and place of trade. In the iſlands oppoſite, where the Dutch merchant-ſhips formerly harboured, many Greenlanders reſide, being well ſituated for catching fiſh, ſeals and rein-deer. This colony is yet but ſmall. In 1754, it conſiſted only of a factor, a Moravian miſſionary, and about ſix or eight European ſailors, three or four of whom were married to Greenland women.

About 36 leagues north of Frederic's Hope, is another colony, called Fiſcher's fiorte, or, Fiſher's-bay, begun in 1754. Here the Moravians eſtabliſhed a ſecond miſſion, in 1758; but, as few Greenlanders live about this place, it has but little trade. In this neighbourhood, are ſeen many ruins; probably, the relicks of the old Norwegians.

[10]A third colony, called Godhaab, or Good-hope, lies in 46 deg. 14 m. 36 leagues north of Fiſher's-bay. Here there are ſome hundreds of ſmall iſlands, crowded together, in the compaſs of ſix leagues. The Moravians have here, alſo, eſtabliſhed a congre⯑gation, built a church, a proviſion houſe, a ſmith's ſhop, and a brew-houſe; and the houſes of the na⯑tives are ſcattered round them. This is the oldeſt colony in Greenland; having been founded in 1721. It was formerly inhabited by ſome thouſands of Green⯑landers; but the ſmall pox having made great ravage, in 1733, the number is ſo decreaſed, that there are now few natives here ſettled.—To give our readers ſome idea of the ravages the ſmall pox made, it was calculated, in 1746, that, on the whole weſtern coaſt of Greenland, in the ſpace of 400 leagues, there were not above 20,000 Greenlanders there ſettled; whereas, in the year 1730, the number was computed at 30,000.

Thirty leagues north of Good-hope, there are pretty large plats of graſs, near the ſea-ſide; and wood is to be found.

In latitude 65 deg. 46 min. 56 leagues north of Good hope, is a fourth colony, founded in 1775. Trade here is pretty good, though there are but few Green⯑landers. This colony, and that of Good-hope, is frequented by one ſhip only; and the trade conſiſts of [11] ſeals, blubber, and the ſkins of ſeals and foxes. In this neighbourhood, are ſeveral ſalmon-fiſheries.

In the 67th degree of north latitude, is Wyde⯑bay, a fifth colony, eſtabliſhed for traffic and the whale-fiſhery, in 1759. This is one of the moſt com⯑modious places for trade and reſidence, on the whole coaſt.

Sixteen leagues farther north, in 68 deg. lies another colony, called Egede's-minde, or Egede's Memorial, erected in 1759. This place is frozen up all the win⯑ter; and is not open till May, when the whale-fiſhery is over.

A fourth colony, eſtabliſhed in 1734, lies in 79 deg. There are, alſo, three or four others: but the 12th, and fartheſt north, is in 71 deg. erected in 1758. We are told, by the natives, that the country is inhabited as far north as 78 deg. though very thinly; for, notwith⯑ſtanding there is plenty of eider-fowls, white bears, ſeals and whales, yet, owing to the long winter-nights, no one liked to live there long, the land being little elſe than dreary rock and ice. In theſe parts, inſtead of building their houſes with wood and turf, as in more ſouthern places, they are obliged to erect them with clay, ſeal-ſkins, and the horns of the unicorn-fiſh. According to their information, the land ſtretches, north-weſt, towards America; and they tell us, that here and there are ſtones [12] ſtanding erect, with arms extended, like our guide⯑poſts, as if they were ſet up, as directions for travelling thence to the northern parts of America.

We wiſh it was in our power to give the reader any tolerable account, on which he might rely, of the ſtate of Greenland, ſome centuries back. The natives know nothing of their forefathers, but, that they extirpated their former, northern inhabitants.

According to the account of Arngrim Jonas, the learned Icelander, one Eric, a deſcendant of a Nor⯑wegian earl, being condemned to a three years baniſh⯑ment, ſought this place; and, finding it, returned to Iceland, and, the third year, perſwaded people to go to his new-diſcovered land, which he called Greenland; repreſenting it as a place abounding with paſture, wood and fiſh. Eric was followed by 25 ſhips, full of peo⯑ple; and, in proceſs of time, greater numbers flocked there from Iceland and Norway, and ſtocked the coun⯑try with inhabitants, both on the eaſt and weſt ſide, till it was computed to be a third part as numerous as a Daniſh, epiſcopal dioceſe.— Writers are not de⯑cided about the time of theſe events; but it ſeems to be about the year 830.

Torfoeus, the Icelander, who wrote in the 12th cen⯑tury, ſpeaks of a number of monkeries, and ſome nun⯑neries; and Theodore, who was a biſhop in Iceland, [13] in the laſt century, relates, that in Einar's inlet, in la⯑titude 65 deg. ſtood a great wood, where cattle were paſtured, that belonged to the cathedral church at the end of the bay, near the village Gadar. In the great iſland Rinſey, ſays he, is an extenſive hunt of rein-deer, and alſo the beſt, ſoft, baſtard-marble, of which, the Greenlanders make pitchers and veſſels, containing 10 or 12 barrels each, ſo firm, as to endure fire. Fur⯑ther weſt, lies Long Iſland, containing eight farms be⯑longing to the biſhop's ſee. He makes mention alſo, of 19 bays, or inlets, on the eaſt ſide, round which ſtood 190 villages, forming 12 pariſhes, beſides a biſhop's ſeat, and two cloiſters. Torfoeus deſcribes the air as more ſerene and ſettled; and the cold not ſo intenſe in Greenland, as in Iceland, and Norway. It is related, alſo, in the Daniſh records, that, in the year 1308, there was ſuch a ſtorm of thunder and lightning, that a church was thrown down, many pinnacles of rocks torn off, and the duſt of the bro⯑ken ſtones flew about like rain; and, that this ſtorm was followed by ſuch a ſevere winter, as they had ne⯑ver before ſeen, when the ice did not thaw for a whole year.

Their deſcriptions of the fruitfulneſs, or produce of the land, are not only various, but contradictory. The Iceland annals ſometimes tell us, that it bore the beſt wheat; and, at others, that nothing would grow there for the cold. They ſpeak of woods where white bears [14] were hunted; and mention oak-trees, that bore acorns as big as apples, and of a taſte as pleaſant as cheſnuts. We mention theſe accounts; but there is little in them, to be relied on.

In the Daniſh chronicle we are told, that, in 1023, the Greenlanders became tributary to the kings of Norway, which was ſoon after they embraced the chriſtian faith, and that they were governed by a vice⯑roy, according to the laws of Iceland. We find no traces of their military ſtrength, either by land, or ſea. The Greenland trade, indeed, is ſaid to have been very conſiderable; and, it may eaſily be believed, that they exported a great deal of meat, butter, cheeſe, fiſh, train and pelts; but theſe commodities ſeem to have been fetched by foreign veſſels, though navigation was not neglected by them; for they not only ſailed from Iceland and Norway to Greenland, in their own ſhips, but the firſt diſcovery and navigation of North Ame⯑rica, is aſcribed to them; and, perhaps, a brief relation of this curious piece of hiſtory, will not be unentertain⯑ing. It is given by Mallet, in his Introduction a l'hiſtoire de Denemarc; and by Pontoppidan, in his Hiſtory of Norway; tranſcribed by them from the Iceland hiſto⯑rians, Jonas and Torfoeus; confirmed by the teſtimony of the ancient hiſtoriographer, Adam Brementis, who wrote in the middle of the 11th century, and, conſe⯑quently, at the time of the diſcovery.

[15]An Icelander, named Herjolf, went every year by ſea, to traffic, in ſeveral countries, accompanied by his ſon, Bioern. Once, in the year 1001, they were ſeparated from each other by a ſtorm, and Bioern, arriving in Norway, got intelligence that his father had ſailed to Greenland, a place then but little known; he accord⯑ingly followed him; but, being driven by another ſtorm, to the ſouth-weſt, diſcovered a flat, champaign country, overgrown with wood, and, on his return, deſcribed alſo an iſland. He did not make any ſtay at either of theſe places; but, when the ſtorm ceaſed, made the beſt of his way north-weſt to Greenland. This diſcovery be⯑ing made known, Leif, the ſon of Eric, whom we have mentioned, ambitious of acquiring fame, like his fa⯑ther, by diſcovering and colonizing new countries, fitted out a ſhip, with 35 men, and went to ſea with Bioern. The firſt land they made was ſtony and barren; and they gave it the name of Helleland; that is, flat, bare land. They next diſcovered a low country, with white ſand, covered with ſome wood, which they called Mark⯑land, or level-land. Two days afterwards they ſaw land again, whoſe northern coaſt; was ſheltered by an iſland. Here they found ſhrubs bearing a ſweet berry; and ſailed up a river, till they came to a lake, from which the river iſſued. The air was mild, the ſoil fruitful, and the river ſwarmed with all ſorts of fiſhes, particularly large ſalmon. Having continued there the winter, and found that the ſun roſe about eight o'clock in the ſhorteſt days, it is evident, the place muſt have [16] been in the 49th deg. of latitude; and to be that of Newfoundland, or the river St. Lawrence, in Canada.

Having been long enough there to erect ſome huts, they miſſed a German mariner, whom, after a long ſearch, they found in the wood, ſkipping, and very merry. On being aſked, what made him ſo chearful, he replied, that he had met with and eaten ſuch grapes, as people made wine of in his country. When Leif ſaw and taſted theſe grapes, he called his new country, Viinland; that is, Wineland.

The enſuing ſpring, they went back to Greenland. When Thorwald, Leif's brother, with a view of carry⯑ing the diſcoveries further, ſailed thither the ſame year, with Leif's crew, and traced the land weſtward; and, the ſummer following, eaſtward. The coaſt was every where covered with timber-trees, and beſet with iſlands; but, as the ſhip had received ſome damage, they were obliged to ſpend moſt of their time in repairing her.

Having repaired their veſſel, they examined the eaſt ſide of the land, and perceived three, ſmall boats, co⯑vered with ſkins, and three men in each, all of whom, but one, they ſeized, and wantonly put to death. Some little time after, a great number of the ſame kind of men, in their boats, aſſaulted them; but they defended themſelves ſo well from their arrows, be⯑hind the boards with which their ſhips were guarded, [17] that the ſavages were forced to fly. They called theſe Indians, Sk [...]ellings, that is, dwarfs; and Jonas, writing after Myritius, calls them pygmaeos bicubitales; and ſays, they were found alſo on the weſt ſide of Greenland. He deſcribes theſe men as having ſo little ſtrength, that there was nothing to fear from them; yet Thorwald, and he, alone, fell by one of their arrows. He ordered his people to ſet up a croſs at the head and foot of the grave (on which account that cape was called Kroſſa-neſs); by which it appears, that Thorwald was a chriſtian, as well as his brother, Leif. The reſt of the Greenlanders, Icelanders, and eſpecially the Norwegians, that reſorted, from time to time, to Wineland, were probably heathens, who would rather live in a ſtrange land, than embrace the chriſ⯑tian religion, which, at that time, was propagated in Norway, with ſeverity. Thorwald's companions win⯑tered in Wineland; and, next ſpring, returned to Greenland.

The ſame year, Thorſtein, the third ſon of Eric, with his wife and children (in all 25 perſons), ſailed for Wineland. His chief deſign was to bring away his brother's body; but he was driven, by a ſtorm, on the weſt coaſt of Greenland, at a great diſtance from any of the Norwegian ſettlements. There he took up his winter-quarters; but, he and his followers, loſt their lives, by an epidemic ſickneſs.

[18]Settling a colony in Wineland, was, from this time, more ſeriouſly thought of. An eminent Icelander, named Thorfein, married Thorſtein's widow, and went, with her, and others, in number 65 men and five women to Wineland. They took with them all kinds of cattle, tools, &c. and began to build and to plant. The Skraellings ſoon found them out, and bartered with them, their ſkins and their furs, deſirous of having ſome of their weapons in exchange; but Thorfein forbade it. One of them, however, ſtole a battle-axe, and was ſtupid enough to try it on his comrade; but his curioſity having coſt the other his life, a third ſeized the weapon, and caſt it into the ſea.

Three years after this, Thorfein returned to Green⯑land, and brought with him ſuch valuable merchandize, that he excited in many a deſire to ſeek their fortune in Wineland; but, no further account of this country, worth mentioning, is to be met with, after the year 1121; that is, 100 years after its firſt diſcovery. It is probable, that thoſe Indians, at preſent about New⯑foundland, who are ſo very different, in ſhape and man⯑ner of living, from the other Americans, may be deſ⯑cended from them.

I ſhall take this opportunity, ſays Crantz, to ſpeak of the extraction of our preſent Greenlanders, who were formerly called Skraellings.—The Greenlanders ſay, they were called, by the former, chriſtian inhabit⯑ants, [19] Karallit, a name the Eſkimaux Indians, or North⯑ern Americans, gave themſelves; and a term, which, according to their manner of pronunciation, may be turned into Skraelling.

There being no ſatisfactory footſteps of Greenland's having been inhabited before the arrival of the Nor⯑wegians, the moſt probable ſuppoſition is, that the pre⯑ſent ſavages firſt came to Greenland, in the fourteenth century, and that their route was not from the eaſt out of Europe, but from the weſt out of Greenland; for the natives of Greenland bear no reſemblance to the Laplanders, or the people of Spitzbergen, but reſem⯑ble moſt the Kalmucks of Tartary, and, as there ſeems to be no open paſſage for ſhipping, beyond 80 degrees north; for Lord Mulgrave, in his voyage to explore the parts about the north pole, could penetrate no further, in the ſummer months, than to about the 80th degree, all beyond appearing to be an extenſive plain of ice, of an enormous thickneſs: theſe things conſi⯑dered, the Greenlanders muſt have originated from the eaſtern parts of Tartary, through the northern parts of America; and, indeed, the language of the Eſkimaux Indians, in Labrador, and the native Greenlanders, are ſo much alike, as alſo their perſons, cuſtoms, manners, &c. that it is ſcarce to be doubted, but that the Green⯑landers are a branch of the Eſkimaux Indians, who fled either a-croſs Davis's Streights, which are barely 60 leagues wide, or elſe-travelled up higher, to the top of [20] Baffin's Bay; where, by the ſtone guide-poſts, it is ſup⯑poſed that the land joins. The narrowneſs of the chan⯑nel, between the eaſtern coaſt of Tartary, and the ſouthern coaſt of North-America, being only 13 leagues acroſs, favours this aſſertion.

It may be aſked, perhaps, what became of the Nor⯑wegians, who are allowed formerly to have inhabited Greenland. A plague, which raged in all the northern countries, in the year 1350, called the black death, is ſuppoſed to have made great ravage in Greenland; and many corroborating circumſtances evince, that thoſe who ſurvived this peſtilence, were ſlaughtered by the ſavage Skraellings.

CHAP. II. Of the Northern Seas.

AS the land is covered almoſt every where with ice and ſnow, all the year round; ſo is the ſea, in which are a variety of ice-mountains, or pieces of float⯑ing ice, of ſtupendous magnitude and form, ſome of them wearing the appearance of a church, or caſtle, with ſquare, or pointed turrets; others, reſembling a ſhip in full ſail; others again, large iſlands, with plains, val⯑lies and hills, rearing their heads 200 yards above the level of the ocean.

[21]This ice, like glaſs, is, for the moſt part, hard, clear, and tranſparent; ſome pieces of a pale, green colour; others, of a ſky blue; ſome grey, and others black. In many places, they are an obſtruction to the navigation: in others, during the whale fiſhery, ſeamen moor their ſhips to them, and, on their flat ſurfaces, frequently unload their train-barrels. As in ſailing through theſe ſeas, the ice mountains can be avoided, they are at⯑tended with no great danger: the flat, driving ice, how⯑ever, is terrible, Greenlanders aſſure us, that, on the eaſtern ſide of this country, tracts of ice have been ſeen 200 leagues long, and, in many parts, from 60 to 80 leagues broad, and three or four yards in thickneſs; and, that ſuch pieces will float and drive with the winds and currents. Wh [...]n there is no opening made by the wind and ſtream, one piece follows another ſo cloſe, that a perſon may leap from one to another, without danger, and may plainly ſee the joints where they were broken off. Lord Mulgrave was ſo hemmed in by the ice, that, at one time, he deſpaired of getting his ſhip out; and had abſolutely determined to take to his boats, deſigning to draw them over the ice into more open water, and this in the month of Auguſt. Hence it ap⯑pears, that the Greenlanders are ſo beſet, at certain ſea⯑ſons, as to find no paſſage out; nor European ſhips, any paſſage in.

With this, and other great inconveniences, the wiſe Author of nature hath, however, combined a great be⯑nefit; [22] for, though he hath denied this frigid and rocky region the growth of trees, and almoſt forbidden ſhips to bring them any fuel, he has ordained, that the ſtreams of the ocean ſhould convey to theſe inhoſpitable ſhores, a great deal of wood, which comes floating there, partly without ice, but chiefly with it, lodging itſelf between the iſlands. Were it not for this miraculous proviſion, the Europeans there ſettled, would have no wood to burn; nor the Greenlanders (who burn oil inſtead of wood), any timber to roof their houſes, build their boats, or ſhaft their arrows, which procure them food and cloathing. Among this wood brought here acci⯑dentally, are great trees, torn up by the roots; which, by driving up and down for years, daſhing and rubbing upon the ice, are quite bear of branches and bark, and corroded with great wood-worms. A ſmall part of this drift-wood, are willows, alder and birch, driven from the bays in the ſouth; and large trunks of aſpen-trees, which muſt come from a great diſtance: but the great⯑eſt part, is pine and fir.

It is difficult to decide, from what country this wood proceeds: but it is ſuppoſed to come, with the eaſterly current, from Siberia, or Aſiatic Tartary; where the trees muſt be waſhed down the mountains, by the wa⯑ters, which the rains and flood occaſion, and brought away by the rapid ſtreams of their rivers.

CHAP. III. Of the Air and Seaſons.

THIS country being covered with everlaſting ſnow, it muſt naturally be very cold and raw. In ſuch places, in winter, where the inhabitants enjoy the ſun for an hour or two in the day, the cold is tole⯑rable; but where the ſun is entirely below the horizon, whilſt people are drinking tea, the emptied cup, when put down, will freeze to the table. Paul Egede, in his journal of January 7, 1738, ſays, that, in latitude 68 degrees, when he was there, the ice and hoar-froſt, reached through the chimney to the ſtove's mouth, without being thawed by the fire, even in the day⯑time; ſo, that over the chimney was an arch of froſt, with little holes, through which the ſmoke iſſued. The door and walls of his room were, as if plaſtered over with ice; and, what is ſcarce credible, linen froze in the drawers, the beds were frozen to the bedſteads, and the eider-down coverlid and pillows became quite ſtiff with froſt, an inch thick, from the breath. They were obliged to hew their fleſh-barrels in pieces, to get out the meat; and, though they thawed it in ſnow, when it was put over the fire, the outſide would be ſufficiently boiled, before the inſide could be pierced with a knife.

[24]The ſummer, in Greenland, is from the beginning of May to the end of September; during which five months, the natives encamp in tents: yet the ground is not mellowed by a thorough thaw till June, and then, only on the ſurface; nor does it ceaſe ſnowing till this time. In Auguſt it begins ſnowing again; but no ſnow continues on the ground, till that which falls in October. The ſnow in Auguſt is either ſoon diſ⯑ſolved by the ſun, or diſperſed by the wind; in which laſt caſe, the wind ſcatters ſuch a ſubtil, ſnow-duſt, that we ſcarce dare put our heads out of doors.

In the longeſt ſummer-days, particularly in ſerene and clear weather, it is ſo hot, that people are not only obliged to throw off their winter-garments, but on the ſea, the pitch will melt on the ſhip's ſides. And, from April to Auguſt, the fogs are ſo thick, almoſt every day, that people cannot ſee 40 yards before them. It has been often remarked, that the weather in Green⯑land, is juſt the reverſe of what it is in Europe. In the year 1763, when it was ſo remarkably cold through⯑out Europe, it was ſo mild in Greenland, that it is often colder here in ſummer.

In general, the air is ſo wholeſome and pure, that if a man cloaths himſelf warm, eats moderately, and takes good exerciſe, he will enjoy a good ſtate of health and ſpirits. The winds are as variable here as in other countries; but, when it once begins to be ſtormy, which [25] happens moſtly in autumn, they rage ſo vehemently, that the houſes ſhake and crack; tents, and the lighter boats, fly up into the air; and the ſea-water ſcatters about on the land, like ſnow-duſt. When any one is obliged to leave his houſe, in order to put his boats into ſhelter, he muſt creep upon his belly, leſt the wind ſhould take him off his legs.

There is no night at all in this country, during the ſummer; beyond the 66th degree north, in the longeſt days, the ſun does not ſet; it ſhines not, however, with ſuch luſtre, at night as at noon, reſembling only a very bright moon, which a man can look at, without being dazzled. On the other hand, the winter-nights are ſo much the longer; and, in the 67th degree, the face of the ſun is never ſeen above the horizon, from November 30 to January 12. And yet there are no dark nights here, as in other countries: the inhabit⯑ants enjoy a moderate twilight, and the moon and ſtars, added to the ſnow and ice, give ſuch a light, that peo⯑ple can do very well out of doors without a lanthorn, and ſee plainly to read print of a middle ſize. As, in the ſhorteſt days, ſometimes the moon never ſets; ſo, little is ſeen of it in the ſummer-time; and the ſtars never appear, from May to Auguſt.

CHAP. IV. Of the Productions of the Soil.

THE reader may readily conclude, from the ſituation and nature of this country, what he is to expect, in regard to its fertility. Though the bodies of rocks near the ſea, yield a great deal of coarſe marble, and many of the hills a kind of aſbeſtos, or ſtone-flax, yet their ſurface produces little. The vallies, in general, have no other herbage than moſs, and ſour moor-graſs; and, the uninhabited iſlands, where the birds neſt and dung, furniſh only a few, low ſhrubs, heath, and herbs: the land, however, near the Green⯑land houſes and encampments, from many years cul⯑tivation, with the blood and fat of ſeals, though in itſelf, nothing but a barren ſand, produces the fineſt herbs, in uncommon quantity and ſize.

Graſs grows here, not only in fenny, ſandy and turfy ground, where indeed it is, in general, very ſhort and bad; but alſo, in the cliffs of rocks, where any earth has lodged; and eſpecially near the houſes, where it grows very thick and long. Moſs is the chief produce; of which, ſays Crantz, when I have been ſitting on a rock, I have count [...]d near 20 ſorts round me without riſing: one ſort is like a a ſoft, thick fur, which the natives uſe as we do waſte-paper, and alſo, to ſtop the [27] crevices of their houſes: another ſort ſerves them for tinder, and wicks for lamps. They have alſo a kind of white moſs, on which the rein-deer feed in winter; and which, in caſes of neceſſity, would preſerve the life of a hungry man. There is another kind of moſs, that ſerves them inſtead of bread; being occaſionally boiled with milk, as a ſubſtitute for oatmeal. Europeans have ſeveral times attempted to grow barley and oats: theſe will ſhoot up as fine and high as in our country, but ſeldom get into ear; and never ripen, on account of the early froſts, even in the warmeſt places. As the ſeaſon will not admit of ſowing, till the middle of June, they cannot raiſe many vegetables. Radiſhes grow as well here as in moſt other countries; but ſallad and cole are very ſmall, and will not bear tranſplanting.

Whortleberries and cranberries are here met with; and a fruit like the mulberry, only yellow, inſtead of red: theſe laſt are packed up and exported, are a very refreſhing delicacy, and a remedy for the ſcurvy. There are plenty of large juniper-berries, but held there in no eſtimation. Of trees, there are three kinds of willows, but the cold will not ſuffer them to rear their heads, obliging them to creep upon the ground. Their birch (though ſomewhat different from ours), is in the ſame predicament. The Greenlanders talk of al⯑ders, that grow, in the ſouthern parts, twice the height of a man, and as big round as his leg; and ſay, that the wild ſervice-tree grows there in abundance, and [28] brings it's fruit to maturity. They alſo ſpeak of a wild pea, which they boil and eat; and mention a fruit, reſembling our large, yellow plumb, which they com⯑pare to oranges: but the further we go north, the more naked and ſteril is the land; till, at laſt, nothing is to be met with, but bare rocks.

CHAP. V. Of their Animals.

UNFRUITFUL, however, as this land is, it af⯑fords nouriſhment to ſome, though but very few, kinds of beaſts, which ſupply the natives with food and raiment. Hares and rein-deer they have in plenty; but more of the former than the latter. Hares are white, both in ſummer and winter; are pretty large, live on graſs and white moſs, but are little regarded by the natives.

Their rein-deer are of that northern kind, which are met with in Spitzberg, Siberia, Norway, Lapland, and the northern parts of America. They are here wild, and not eaſily caught. The largeſt are about the ſize of a two-year old h [...]f [...]r; their colour, brown, or grey, with white b [...]llies; their ſkin very thick of hair, and above an inch long. Their antlers differ only from thoſe of the common buck, in being ſmooth, grey, and [29] broad as one's hand, at top. Their fleſh is tender, and well-taſted. They are very cleanly and contented creatures; live, in ſummer, on the tender graſs they find in the vallies; and, in winter, on the white moſs, which they dig for, under the ſnow, between the rocks. A Greenlander once caught a young one, bred it up, and it grew as tame as a cow; but, having done ſome miſchief, he was obliged to kill it.

Here are alſo foxes; but ſomewhat different from thoſe of ſouthern countries. Some are white, but, in general, they are blue, or grey: they bark, like a dog, and reſemble one about the head and feet; live on birds and their eggs, upon berries, muſcles, crabs, and what the ſea caſts out. The natives catch them in traps; and, if in want of food, would rather eat them than hares. Blue fox-ſkins are eagerly bought up by the factors.

White bears, ſo often heard of, are frequently met with in all parts of Greenland: they have a long, nar⯑row head, like a dog, and are ſaid to bark like one. Their hair is long, and as ſoft as wool; their bodies are often three or four yards in length; their fleſh is white and fat, taſtes like mutton, and the natives are very fond of it. They prowl, upon the flakes of ice, after ſeals and dead whales; and will attack the ſea⯑lion, though this creature frequently maſters them. They will ſwim from one piece of ice to another; and, when attacked, will defend themſelves even againſt a boat [30] full of men. When on land, their food is birds and their eggs; and, if impelled by hunger, they will de⯑vour the human ſpecies, digging dead bodies out of their graves. In winter, they immure themſelves in holes between the rocks, or bury themſelves in the ſnow, till the ſun invites them abroad again; when, allured by the ſcent of ſeals' fleſh, they will hunt out a Green⯑lander's houſe, break into it, and plunder it. The na⯑tives, in their turn, raiſe a hue and cry after the robbers, ſurround them with their dogs, and kill them with lances and harpoons; though they often loſe their own lives in the aſſault.

Here are no tame beaſts, except dogs of a middle ſize, which reſemble more a wolf than a dog, not bark⯑ing, but howling and growling. They are too ſtupid an animal to be of much uſe in hunting; but are har⯑neſſed as horſes to a ſledge, from four to ten at a time, in which the natives viſit each other, or draw home their ſeals over the ice. Their ſkins are uſed as co⯑verings to beds, and as ornamental borders to their garments.

Of land-birds, there is no great variety; becauſe there is little food for them. The principal, is the northern partridge; ſuch as frequents cold countries, and the Alps. In Switzerland, they are called ſnow⯑hens. They caſt their feathers twice a year. The colour of the cocks are grey in ſummer, and white in winter, [31] the colour of the ſnow:—a wiſe precaution of Pro⯑vidence, to preſerve them from birds of prey which hunt after them, and but for this circumſtance would readily find them. It is a good bird to eat, and eaſily caught. Their claws have, within, a thick ball, covered with ſmall feathers, to enable them to endure the cold; and, as their toes are not divided the whole way up, they are capable of ſwimming. Here are alſo ſnipes, and ſome ſmall, ſinging birds; and, of birds of prey, the great, dark-brown eagle, grey and ſpotted falcons, white owls, and ravens.

As to inſects and vermin—the natives are troubled with large gnats (beſides ſmall ones), in ſuch quan⯑tities, that in hazy, ſummer weather, it is difficult to ſcreen themſelves from them. They have all ſorts of earth-worms and maggots; but nothing venemous, except ſpiders. No ſerpents, toads, frogs, rats, mice, fleas, or ſuch like animals. Theſe cannot live in this cold country.

Deſtitute, however, as the land is of living creatures, the riches of the ſea make it up, as well in variety as multitude. The many kinds of ſea-fowls are too nu⯑merous to mention here; unleſs we were writing the natural hiſtory of the place. Indeed, they are not peculiar to Greenland, but are found in moſt of the higher latitudes. We ſhall have occaſion to ſpeak of ſome of them, when we are deſcribing Norway; will, [32] therefore, paſs over all but the eider-fowl, or black duck, it's down being a profitable article of commerce. It's fleſh is eaten by the Greenlanders; and, of it's ſkin, they make their fineſt, and their warmeſt, under-gar⯑ments. This fowl is, however, moſt celebrated for it's valuable down, which is found in great quantities, when ſtripped of it's coarſe feathers. As the down, when pulled from the dead bird, is apt to heat by lying, and will not ſwell and diſtend itſelf rightly, they con⯑trive to procure it from the fowl whilſt living: for this purpoſe, they viſit the neſts, which the tender mother lines with this ſoft ſubſtance, either dropped, or pluck⯑ed from her body, to prepare a warm bed for her cal⯑low brood. Of this down, we have warm, light cover⯑lids, in England; but we ſhall have occaſion to ſpeak more of it hereafter.

Of the moſt profitable fiſhes, the north is the proper rendezvous and reſidence; where, under the ice, they find ſhelter from the whales that prey on them: whales being frequently obliged to riſe above water, to draw breath, cannot follow their prey far under the ice. Here then they retreat, breed, and fatten; but, in order to make them ſubſervient to the uſe of man, the wiſe Creator has ordained, that they ſhall annually make their way ſouthward. We ſee this, particularly, in herrings. Some cauſe, unknown to man, drives them out, in innumerable ſhoals, like ſwarms of bees. As they advance, they are chaſed by the cod, the mackarel, and [33] other fiſh of prey; and theſe, in their turn, are hunted by the ſeals and whales, and obliged to fly to the ſhal⯑loweſt ſand-bank for protection, where the larger fiſhes cannot follow them; and, where they are caught by fiſhermen.

Theſe ſeas not only yield herrings, ſalmon, cod-fiſh, &c. but flounders, holibut, a variety of ſhell-fiſh, and ſome ſmall fiſhes, peculiar to this latitude.

Though the whole is almoſt univerſally known, it would be unpardonable, in treating of Greenland, not to give ſome account of this animal, and it's fiſhery, which employs ſo many ſhips yearly of different nations, not leſs than 300 or 350 (each ſhip having from five to ſeven long-boats), and that in a compaſs of two de⯑grees, from the 77th to the 79th. Theſe ſhips, ſome⯑times catch from 1800 to 2000 whales, in the ſpace of two months; and wound many that eſcape.

The Greenland whale, by Engliſh ſailors called the black whale, is deſcribed, in Marten's Voyage to Spitz⯑berg, and Zordrager's Greenland Fiſhery, to be from 50 to 80 feet long. They were formerly from 100 to 200 feet in length; but being now caught in ſuch multi⯑tudes, have not time to grow to their full ſize. The head is a third part of the length of the whole body; it has only two fins, one on each ſide of the head, from five to eight feet long, but with theſe it rows along very [34] faſt. It's tail is ſix or eight yards broad, and turning up at both ends in a curve, is enabled with it to daſh the ſtrongeſt boat in pieces; it is, however, a timid animal, never beginning an attack, but flying at the leaſt alarm. It's ſkin, above, is commonly black and ſmooth, like velvet, and white underneath. On the head is a bunch, where are two noſtrils, through which it breathes, and ſpouts out the water it takes in at it's mouth, with a noiſe that can be heard at three miles diſtance. It's eyes are placed between it's noſtrils and fins; and have eye-lids that drop over them, and are not larger than thoſe of an ox. It has no flaps to it's ears, nor any teeth in it's mouth; but contains, in it's upper-jaw, which is ſix yards long, thoſe barders, blades, or whiſkers, as they are called, of which we make the whale-bone. There are commonly 350 on each ſide; but the 50 largeſt only are taken. They hang like the pipes of an organ; the leaſt before and behind, the longeſt in the middle, which are generally four yards in length. The tongue conſiſts wholly of ſoft, fungous fat, like bacon, which will fill from five to ſeven large barrels. This fiſh brings forth it's young like a quadruped, full-formed, generally one at a time, but never more than two, which it ſuckles; when purſued, it wraps up it's young in it's fins, cloſe to it's body. Whales have two ſkins, the inner an inch thick, the outer one as thin as parchment; under theſe, lies the fat, from ſix to 12 inches thick; about the under lip, it is two feet in thickneſs. The fat of the whale will, according to the ſize of the fiſh, fill from 100 to 300 [35] barrels. It's fleſh is coarſe, and is ſaid to taſte like beef. Greenlanders eat the part about the tail, and call it a delicacy. It's bones are hard; on the inſide, full of holes, like a honey-comb, and filled with train.

One would ſuppoſe, that this enormous beaſt would require a great many large fiſhes for one meal's food; but it's ſwallow being ſcarce four inches broad, it lives chiefly on a white ſlime, ſwimming on the ſea, called whale's food; but which, in fact, is an animal wearing that appearance. This it ſups up, by ſtrong ſuction; and, as a great deal of water flows in with it, the animal blows out the water again at it's noſtrils. This ſlime being found, in the greateſt quantity, between Spitz⯑berg, Nova Zembla and Greenland (where it floats in ſuch abundance, that the creeks are as full of it as our ditches with inſects), the whale rarely emigrates from theſe parts.

The manner of catching whales, is as follows:—When a whale is ſeen or heard, a long-boat, with ſix men in it (for there are always five or ſix ſuch boats ready) makes up to it, and endeavours to approach it's ſide, near the head. The whale, finding itſelf purſued, dives, but riſing again to breathe, which it is conſtrained to do, the men watch the opportunity, row up to it's ſide, and the harpooner ſtrikes him uſually near the fin, with a harpoon (a triangular, barbed iron, about a foot long, and faſtened to a ſtem.) The fiſh no ſooner feels the [36] ſmart, than it darts down into the deep, with the har⯑poon ſticking faſt in it. To this harpoon is faſtened a line 200 yards long, and about as thick as one's finger; which runs with ſuch rapidity after the whale, that if it entangles itſelf, muſt either ſnap ſhort, or overſet the boat: it is one man's buſineſs, therefore, to attend to this line, and wet the place on the boat's edge, on which it runs, leſt it ſhould take fire. The boat, with the line, follows the whale as far it can; and, if the fiſh is not mortally wounded, it will flounce about in the deep for an hour, and draw a line of 4,000 yards after it: in which caſe, freſh line is added by other boats. If the fiſh comes up again alive, they ſtrike it with freſh harpoons, and then kill it with lances. When dead, it riſes to the ſurface of the water, with it's belly upwards. Should it retreat under the ice, they either pull away the harpoon, or cut the line; in which caſe, they loſe the fiſh, a loſs amounting to 200£. that being it's aver⯑age value.

The whale, being dead, is towed up to the ſhip's ſide, and there faſtened: the firſt buſineſs is then to go, with a boat, into it's jaws, and cut out the whale-bone. They next cut off the blubber from the tongue; and then proceed to ſtrip the whole body of it's fat, begin⯑ning at the head and tail at once, and ending in the middle. Forty or fifty men ſtand on the fiſh for this purpoſe, and will ſtrip it in four hours. With the loſs of it's fat, the fiſh loſes it's buoyant faculty; and, when [37] turned a-drift, down goes the carcaſs into the deep, with the general and joyful huzza of the whole crew; in a few days, it burſts, and riſes again, and it's vaſt ſtock of fleſh, is a profuſe feaſt to fiſhes, birds and bears.

This is the European mode of whale-fiſhing; but that of the Greenlanders is ſomewhat different. The women aſſiſt in this buſineſs; their employ being to row the boats, and mend the ſeamens jackets, When they ſee a fiſh, they row boldly up to it, and ſtrike it with ſeveral harpoons, to which are hung large bladders, made of ſeal's ſkin, which ſo incumber and impede the motion of the animal, that he cannot dive deep. When tired out, they diſpatch him with their lances. The men then creep into their ſea, or ſpring-jackets; which are made of ſeals'-ſkin with air-bladders, and cover their feet, hands and head, all in one piece, being faſtened tight upon the head. In theſe, they leap, fear⯑leſs, upon the fiſh, and into the ſea, the air in their jackets keeping them erect in the water. They next proceed, as do the Europeans, to cut out the fat and whale-bone. And here the multitude are very diſor⯑derly; all running, promiſcuouſly, in a heap, men, women and children, one over another, with ſharp⯑pointed knives (for every one, though a ſpectator only, may ſhare in dividing the ſpoil), and it is wonderful how careful they are, in all this ſcramble, not to wound one another.

[38]The ſeal, alſo, is a native of the north-ſeas, is an amphibious animal, with four feet, and called, in many places, the ſea-calf, or ſea-wolf. It has a rough, hairy hide, uſed by us to cover travelling trunks. It's head pretty much reſembles that of a dog, with the ears cropt, having a ſmall aperture for the ear, but no flaps: it's body, in the middle, is bulky, but runs out pointed towards each end, for the convenience of making better way through the water. It has two ſhort feet before, ſtanding downwards, perpendicularly; and two others behind, in a horizontal direction, with webbed toes, like thoſe of a gooſe. The water is it's natural element, as it lives upon fiſh; but, having long nails in it's fore feet, it climbs the rocks, and is often upon land. It's cry is like a wild ſwine; and, the young ones, mew like a cat. It has ſharp teeth, and large, fiery eyes, with eye-brows.

Seals are often found on the ice and land, baſking, or ſleeping, in the ſun; and, though they have a lame gait, or walk, can pad along ſo faſt, and, by means of their hind-feet, ſpring forward ſo quick, that a man cannot eaſily come up with them. They are taken for their fat and ſkins. Their fat, which is near four inches thick, is converted into train-oil; and their fleſh is red, tender, and juicy, reſembling, in taſte, the fleſh of a wild hog.

There are five or ſix ſpecies of ſeals; ſome two yards, and ſome three yards in length. I have ſeen one, [39] ſays Crantz, called a ſea-cow, of the ſeal ſpecies, ſix yards in length, and near as much in circumference over the breaſt. This creature weighed 400 pounds; and as it's eyes, on preſſing the ſkin, ſprung out a finger's length, it is ſuppoſed, the animal could throw them out, and draw them in for ſhelter, at pleaſure.

Seals, in general, yield a great deal of blubber; and the train that drops from it, is not more rancid than ſtale oil of olives; and, with their ſkins, the Greenlanders frequently make their waiſtcoats. They cannot eaſily be caught by a ſingle perſon, unleſs when they are big with young, and, of courſe, helpleſs; but, as they are animals of paſſage, retiring from Greenland in March, to caſt their young, and returning in June, young and all, like a flock of ſheep, the ſeal-hunters endeavour, on their return, to ſurround them on the ice, where they often lie ſleeping, in whole herds. They firſt frighten them by ſhouting, which occaſions them to ſtretch out their necks and yell, at which time the catchers take the op⯑portunity to ſtun them, by giving them a deſperate blow on their noſes; after which they kill, and flay them.

To the Greenlanders, the ſeal-fiſhery is the beſt harveſt. Seals' fleſh, with that of the rein-deer, is their moſt delicious, and ſubſtantial food: the fat ſupplies their lamps and fires with oil, ſoftens their dry food, and, by barter, furniſhes them with all the neceſſaries of life. Of the fibres of ſeals' ſinews, they make thread; [40] the tranſparent ſkins of their entrails ſerve them for windows, curtains for their tents, ſhirts, and thoſe blad⯑ders they fix to their harpoons; and of the maw, they make train bottles. When there is a ſcarcity of iron, they make inſtruments and tools of their bones: their blood, with other ingredients, they convert into ſoups; and make their cloaths, bedding, and boats, of their ſkins.

Catching ſeals, therefore, is the great end of Greenland education: to which the children are trained from their infancy; by which they maintain themſelves; become agreeable to each other, and uſeful members of ſociety.

The Kaiak is covered on the top, having a round hole in the middle, into which the Greenlander ſlips with his feet, ſitting on a board, covered with a ſoft ſkin; when he is ſeated, the rim of the hole reaches juſt above his hips, and he tucks his great water-coat in, between the boat and himſelf, ſo tight, that the water cannot penetrate; this coat being, at the ſame time, buttoned cloſe about his face and body, the man and his boat are, as it were, one maſs. At his ſide he places his lance and harpoon; and, behind him, the ſeal-ſkin bladder. His pautik, or oar (for he has but one), is made of red deal, round in the middle, and three fingers broad at each end. This he holds in the middle, with both hands, and ſtrikes the water, on each ſide, very quick, and as regular as if beating time. Thus equipped, he goes out to fiſh; and, if expedition requires it, can row 20 or 24 leagues a day. In theſe Kaiaks, they fear no ſtorms, can mount the boiſterous billows like a piece of cork, and, ſhould a wave break over them, [42] are unconcerned; for they accuſtom themſelves, by way of exerciſe, to overturn themſelves in the water, ſo as that their heads ſhall hang perpendicularly down, and, with a ſwing, and ſtroke with their paddle, ſet their boat to rights again, in an inſtant.

When a Greenlander ſpies a ſeal, he endeavours to conceal himſelf behind a wave, till he is within 10 or 12 yards of it, in order to take him by ſurpriſe. Having his lance, harpoon and tackle ready, as ſoon as within reach, he caſts the harpoon, and, if he hits his mark, the ſeal, feeling himſelf wounded, dives; dragging the bladder, which is faſtened by a ſtring to the harpoon, under water with him; though, from it's ſize, he finds it difficult ſo to do: but, as the animal muſt come up every quarter of an hour to breathe, no ſoon grows weary of diving, is followed by the Greenlander, and pierced with a lance, as he riſes. When killed, the wound is ſtopped, to preſerve the blood. This done, the ſeal-catcher perforates the ſkin, blows up the ani⯑mal like a bladder, to make it buoyant, and takes it in tow.

In this exerciſe, he is expoſed to great danger, for, ſhould the line which faſtens the bladder to the harpoon, and which is of ſome length, entangle itſelf with the Kaiak, the boat muſt be drawn down under water; nay, ſhould he eſcape this danger, if he approaches too near the dying ſeal, it will bite him mortally. A female ſeal, [43] that has young, will often fly at it's enemy with fury, or bite a hole in the boat, and ſink it.

It is the ſtupid ſpecies of ſeal which the Greenlander can thus take, without aſſiſtance. Other ſeals are caught by companies of fiſhermen. At certain ſeaſons, they retire into creeks and inlets. There the Greenlanders cut off their retreat, and frighten them under water, by ſhouting, clapping, and throwing ſtones.. When they come up to draw breath, they aſſail them again, in the ſame manner, till they tire them out, that they can dive no longer. They are then ſurrounded, and killed. This mode of catching them, is called Kaſſigiak, or, clapper-hunt: it is not bad ſport, and the Greenland⯑ers are very active and expert at it. If a ſeal has good, broad water, three or four leagues each way, it can keep the hunters in play for two hours, diving, and riſing again, at the diſtance of three quarters of a mile. Should it, in it's fright, take to the land, it is there attacked by women and children.

They are often caught, alſo, on the ice; many being killed, whilſt ſleeping and ſnoring in the ſun: and, in the ſpring-time, where the current makes a great hole in the ice, the Greenlanders will often ſtation them⯑ſelves round it, and, when the ſeals come in droves to the edge of this hole to breathe, kill them with their harpoons.

CHAP. VI. Of the Natives.

THE Greenlanders are of low ſtature, not exceed⯑ing five feet in height; but they are well-ſhaped, and proportionate in their limbs. Their faces are ge⯑nerally broad and flat, with high cheek-bones, like the Scots; but their cheeks are round and plump. It is a common obſervation, ſays Ellis, in his deſcription of the Eſquimaux Indians, that men as well as beaſts, and the products of the ground, with ſome few exceptions, are ſmaller and ſmaller as they are more under the pole; for, though there are large trees growing at the bottom of Hudſon's Bay, there are nothing but ſhrubs in the 61ſt degree: and alſo, that the people keep diminiſhing in ſtature, according to the higher latitude they live in, till the 67th degree, where there are no inhabitants at all.

The eyes of the Greenlanders are little and black, but without any animation; and their noſes project but little from their faces. Their bodies are all over of a dark grey; but their faces, are of an olive-colour. As their children are born white, this grey tinge may pro⯑ceed in part from their dirtineſs, for they are continually handling train-oil and greaſe, ſitting in the ſmoke, and ſeldom waſh themſelves; their food, alſo, may contri⯑bute [45] to the ſame end; for their blood is ſo affected by it, that their ſweat ſmells like train, and their hands feel clammy, like bacon. But there are a few, whoſe faces are not ſo round, and whoſe complexions are fairer, and might eaſily paſs, undiſtinguiſhed, among the natives of Switzerland.

Their hair, on their heads, is, univerſally, ſtrong and long, and of a coal-black colour; but the men have ſeldom any beard, as they take great pains to pluck it out. Their hands and feet are ſmall, and ſoft; but their head and limbs, are large. They have high breaſts and broad ſhoulders, eſpecially the women; who accuſtom themſelves to carry heavy burdens; and, being fat and corpulent, can endure the cold, with bare heads and necks, and very thin cloathing: nay, the men commonly ſit naked within doors, except their breeches; and, at this time, their bodies emit ſuch a ſteam, as to be in⯑tolerable to a European ſitting near them. They are very light and active, do not want for ſtrength, and can endure great fatigues. A Greenlander, who has eat nothing but graſs for three days, will manage his little canoe in the moſt boiſterous ſea; and, a woman will carry a rein-deer, whole, for the diſtance of four leagues, or a piece of timber, or ſtone, double the weight which any Engliſhman can lift.

With reſpect to their temper, they are of a phleg⯑matic nature; not very lively, but good-humoured, [46] ſociable, and far from covetous: they are ſo little con⯑cerned for the future, as to hoard up nothing; of courſe, are very liberal in giving. They are not, apparently, poſſeſſed of any high ſpirit, but have a good ſhare of what we call ruſtic pride; and conſider Europeans as far beneath them; eſteeming themſelves the only civi⯑lized and well-bred people. When they ſee a quiet and modeſt ſtranger, they ſay— ‘He is almoſt as well-bred as us.’—They are not quarrelſome, but patient, and draw back where any one encroaches on them: but, if puſhed to extremes, become deſperate in the greateſt degree.

Though they are always buſy about ſomething, they are very fickle, and have no perſeverance; ſo that, if they begin a thing, and meet with a difficulty, they throw it away. In ſummer-time, they ſleep five, or ſix hours; in winter, eight: and, if they have worked hard, and had a reſtleſs night, will ſleep the whole enſuing day. In the morning, they will walk to ſome emi⯑nence, take a proſpect of the weather and the ocean, and, if it appears unfavourable, will ſeem thoughtful and dejected, as at the dangers and burdens of the day; but, when no difficulties riſe before them, or when they return home from a ſucceſsful fiſhery, they are chearful and converſable.

They are ſo expert at concealing and expreſſing their paſſions, that we might take them for Stoics; and, [47] they affect to be very reſigned, under any calamity: but it is all affectation; for no people are more ir⯑ritable to anger, and more revengeful, when an oppor⯑tunity offers.

Their cloaths are made of the ſkin of the rein-deer, ſeals, and birds. Their outer garment reſembles a wag⯑goner's frock, only not ſo long and looſe; and they put it on the ſame way, drawing it over their heads, like a ſhirt: at the top of it is a hood, which they can pull up, occaſionally, over their heads, like the hood of a ca⯑puchin. Their under-garment is a kind of ſhirt, made of the ſkins of birds, with the feathers inwards. At preſent, moſt Greenlanders of any property, make their upper garment of cloth, or cotton, yet cut in their own faſhion. Their breeches are of ſeals'-ſkin, and are very ſhort, above and below: their ſtockings are made of the ſkin of a ſeal's foetus, taken out of the body of the dam; and their ſhoes, of ſmooth, black, dreſſed ſeal-leather, tied with a thong on the inſtep. The ſoles of their ſhoes ſtand out bending upwards, both before and behind, two inches broad, but they have no heels. The rich natives, now, wear woollen ſtockings, breeches and caps; and, when they make a voyage, cover themſelves with a black, ſmooth, ſeal's-hide, by way of great coat.

The dreſs of the women is much the ſame; only that their jackets have higher ſhoulders, and a higher hood; [48] and are not cut round, even at the bottom, like the mens', but, from the thigh, drop in a point before and behind, below the knee, and are bordered with red cloth. The women, alſo, wear breeches, with ſhort drawers under them. They wear a kind of high ſhoes, or boots, of white, or red leather, the ſeam of which is before, and ornamented. Mothers and nurſes wear an upper-garment, wide in the back, with a pocket in the ſhoulders, large enough to hold a child, which is left there quite naked to tumble about, and is no other⯑wiſe taken care of. They are very neat, and careful of their beſt cloaths; but, their every-day dreſs drips with greaſe, and their heads ſwarm with vermin, na⯑tural to their filth, which, like beggars, they are expert at catching, and kill between their teeth.

In winter they live in houſes, and tents in ſummer. Their houſes or cottages, are generally built on ſome eminence near the ſea, in order that the ſnow may run from them. They are ſeldom more than about four yards broad, and from 8 to 24 yards in length, according to the ſize of the family, and juſt high enough for a per⯑ſon to ſtand upright in. They are built with ſtones and ſods. Their houſes have neither door nor chimney, but the deficiency is ſupplied by a paſſage 5 or 6 yards long, by which they can paſs through the middle of the houſe, the roof of which paſſage is ſo low, that they are obliged to creep in almoſt on their hands and feet. This long entrance keeps out the wind and cold, and lets out the thick air, for as they burn only oil within, they have no ſmoke. The inſide of the walls are hung with old tent and boat-ſkins, and the roofs covered with the ſame. From the middle of the houſe to the back-wall, there is a raiſed floor or broad bench, like a taylor's ſhop-board, made with wood and covered with ſkins, and this floor is divided by ſkins, ſtreched from the poſts that ſup⯑port the roof, into apartments, like horſe-ſtalls, in each of which a family lives, ſo that houſes contain from [50] three to ten families, ſome more, and ſome leſs. On theſe floors, they ſit in the day-time; the men with their legs hanging down, the women behind, croſs-legged, like a taylor; and, in the night, they ſleep on them. Along the front-wall, oppoſite to this wall, are ſeveral ſquare windows, made of ſeals' guts and halibuts' maws, and ſewed ſo neat and tight as to keep out the weather, and yet admit the light. A bench runs along the whole length of the houſe under the windows, where ſtrangers ſit, or ſleep.

By every poſt is a fire-place. A block of wood is laid upon the ground, and upon that a flat ſtone; on the ſtone, a low, three-legged ſtool, and on that ſtool a lamp, a foot long, reſembling a half moon, hewn out marble; it ſtands in an oval, wooden bowl, placed un⯑der the lamp, to receive the waſte oil. In this lamp, filled with ſeal-oil, they lay ſome moſs, rubbed fine, which burns ſo bright, and gives ſuch a heat, as not only lights the apartment, but warms it. Over this lamp hangs a marble kettle, by four ſtrings, faſtened to the roof, in which they boil their meat; and over this, is placed a wooden rack, on which they lay their wet cloaths, and boots, to dry.

[51] The Ground-plan of a Greenlander's Houſe.

• d. The entrance.
• ccc. Are the raiſed floors for three different families.
• bb. Benches, over which are the windows.
• aaa. Lamps, over which each family boils it's proviſions.

Now, as there are many ſuch fire-places in one houſe, and as they burn night and day, there is an equal and laſting heat; but, though theſe lamps yield no ſmoke, their rancid ſmell, and the ſteam ariſing from boiling ſo much fleſh and fiſh, often half-rotten, and add to this, their urinals within the houſe, with ſkins ſoaking in them for dreſſing, is almoſt intolerable to a perſon unaccuſtomed to it. But, in other reſpects, we cannot but admire their well-contrived houſe-keeping, com⯑prized within ſo ſmall a compaſs; their content in this [52] ſtate of poverty, in which they conceive themſelves richer than us; and, their order and quiet, in ſuch a narrow and crowded ſpot.

Without theſe manſions, they have little ſtore-houſes, where they lay up their proviſion; and, cloſe by, are their boats, drawn on the land, and laid upon poſts, with their bottoms upwards, to preſerve them.

In dreſſing their meat, they are as dirty as in every thing elſe; ſeldom waſhing their kettles, but leaving them to the dogs to clean. Their boiled meat, and broth, they eat with bone-ſpoons, from a wooden diſh; but, their undreſſed meat, lies on the bare ground. They eat with their fingers, and tear with their teeth; and, when the repaſt is over, ſcrape their chops with a knife, lick the blades, and put it in their pockets. So, when they are covered with ſweat, they make their knife perform the ſame office, and ſcrape it from their faces down into their mouths. When they wiſh to treat a European genteelly, they firſt lick the meat, he is to eat, clean from the blood and ſcum it had contracted in the kettle, with their tongue; and, ſhould this not be well received, it would be looked upon as rude and unmannerly.

They eat when they are hungry; but the evening-meal is the chief repaſt; when they frequently invite [53] their neighbours, or ſend them a part of it. The men eat firſt, by themſelves; and their greateſt joy is, to ſee their children ſtuff themſelves ſo full, as to roll about the ground, to make room for more. They take no thought for the morrow; but, when they have plenty, will dance and eat to exceſs, in hopes that the ſea will afford them a freſh ſupply the next day. But, the misfortune is, when March comes, and the ſeals retire till May, if bad weather enſues, they muſt and do ſtrug⯑gle with hunger for many days together: nay, ſo little do they provide for a future contingency, that they are often reduced to the neceſſity of eating muſcles, ſea⯑weed, old tent-ſkins, and ſhoe-ſoles, if they have but oil enough to boil them; and, after all, many a one periſhes with hunger.

Should their fire go out, they re-kindle it, by turn⯑ing a ſtick with a ſtring, very quick, through a hole in a piece of wood; as do the Eſkimaux Indians.

CHAP. VII. Of the Conduct of the Greenlanders in Domeſtic Life.

AS we neither ſee nor hear of any unbecoming conduct in the Greenlanders, they appear to lead a good, orderly life. Single women have very ſel⯑dom any baſtard children. We meet with ſuch things, [54] now and then, in widows and divorced wives; but, though they are held in contempt for ſuch things, yet ſuch women ſometimes make their fortune, by ſelling their children to thoſe who have none, or, by living as wives, with men who are not married. Single women are very reſerved, ſeldom are ſeen in private conver⯑ſation with the men, and, a young woman would think herſelf affronted, if a young fellow in company was to offer her a pinch of ſnuff.

A young fellow never thinks of marrying till he is turned of 20; but, when he is determined in his mind, he chuſes one about his own age, and acquaints his friends with the choice he has made. Marriage-por⯑tions are out of the queſtion. A man ſeldom gets any thing with his wife, but her cloaths, her knife, her lamp, or a ſtone-boiler. His great object, is her ſkill in houſewifry; and, ſhe conſidess little elſe in him, than whether he is a good ſeal-fiſher.

As a ſon has his will in every thing, his parents im⯑mediately conſent; and two old women are diſpatched to the parents of the bride, as negociators. The dam⯑ſel, on being acquainted with it, affects an unwilling⯑neſs, will hear nothing of the matter, runs away and teras her hair. Sometimes, indeed, this diſſatisfaction at the news is real. Women have often fainted at the propoſal, and have eloped and cut off their hair, which laſt is an act of great conſequence; for, when a woman [55] has once loſt her hair, ſhe is never ſought in marriage afterwards. This averſion to matrimony is ſuppoſed to ariſe from the many repudiated wives in Greenland. However, if the bride's parents do not diſapprove, the women ſearch for the daughter, and, having ſound her, drag her to the houſe of her ſuitor, where ſhe ſits, many days, dejected, with diſhevelled hair, and without eating any thing; and, if no perſwaſions avail, ſhe is compelled to change her ſtate by force. If ſhe runs away, ſhe is brought back, and immedſately obliged to perform the contract.

Indeed, ſome parents take care to ſettle their children; and, for this purpoſe, betroth them in their childhood: and, in this caſe, they come together when they pleaſe, without any further ceremony. Sometimes a married Greenlander, if he ſees a young woman he likes, at a dance, and finds her any where alone, will bring her home as a ſecond wife, by force, and the matter is ſoon after reconciled.

They ſeldom marry a near relation; or indeed, any perſon bred up, with them, under the ſame roof; but there are ſome inſtances (though they are held odious in the eyes of the people), of a man's marrying two ſiſters, or, a mother and her daughter.

Being a great reproach to have no ſon, it leads men here, occaſionally, into polygamy; though it is not [56] very general. Scarce a married man in twenty has more than one wife. If a woman does not breed, ſhe is ſometimes put away; and this, with little more cere⯑mony than a ſour look on the part of the man, and packing up her cloaths, on that of the wife. When this happens, the woman returns to her own friends; and, in order to bring an odium upon him, conducts herſelf with great prudence and decorum.

Where a wife cannot agree with other women in the ſame houſe, and this often occurs, as the huſband's mother (if he has any) generally lives with him, and maintains the ſuperiority over the family; ſhe will elope of her own accord, eſpecially if ſhe has no ſon; for ſons are the pride of a Greenlander's heart, his greateſt treaſure, and beſt ſecurity of his property. There have been inſtances, after divorce, of the huſband's running into the deſarts, and living like a hermit, many years in a cavern, flying always at the ſight of his fellow-creatures. Such quarrels, however, happen only between perſons in their younger years, who have married raſhly. The older they grow, and the longer they live together, the ſtronger is the at⯑tachment.

Where a man has but one wife, and ſhe dies, in a few days after, he puts on his beſt cloaths, and dreſſes his houſe and children in the beſt manner. His boat and lances (his greateſt parade), muſt alſo be in the com⯑pleteſt [57] order, and all to render himſelf amiable. He abſtains, however, from all mirthful ſcenes; and does not marry again till a year has clapſed, unleſs he has young children, and no one to nurſe them. If he has more than one wife, and his firſt wife dies, the ſecond takes her place; but, this ſecond muſt join in the general lamentation, though the voice and tears, ſhed on this occaſion, betray, that the heart has but little ſhare in the diſtreſs.

The women are not very prolific. Seldom has a wife more than three or four children; and, at moſt, but ſix. When, therefore, they are told of the fruit⯑fulneſs of other nations, they compare them to their dogs. Very few die in child-birth; and a ſtill born, or deformed child, is ſcarce ever heard of, though the mother works juſt before, and immediately after, her delivery. The child is named by the parents, or the midwife, after ſome beaſt, animal, or inſtrument; or, after ſome deceaſed relation, if he or ſhe did not come to an accidental, or untimely death, being unwilling to renew the pain of ſuch a loſs: nay, where a perſon's name is the ſame with that of a diſtinguiſhed friend lately deceaſed, they call him by ſome other name; ſo that, in time, a Greenlander may change his name ſeveral times; and many a one is at a loſs to make a ſtranger acquainted with it, becauſe he is too modeſt to give his new, acquired name, and, perhaps, aſhamed of his former one.

[58]Mothers love their children exceſſively, and carry them with them, wherever they go, in the pocket of their outer-garment, which is made, for that purpoſe, on their back, between their ſhoulders. They ſuckle them till they are four or five years old, for want of proper food for children; of courſe, when children are ob⯑liged to reſign the breaſt to others, they will often die; and, ſhould the mother die before the child can ſubſiſt on groſs food, the poor infant will not long ſurvive her.

Children are here brought up without any diſcipline, or any chaſtiſement. They ſeem not, indeed, to need ſeverity; as they run about quiet as lambs, and are guilty of few extravagances; beſides, ſuch is the na⯑ture of a Greenlander, that if he cannot be brought to do a thing by gentle uſage, no compulſion will effect it; he would ſooner die than be compelled. The older children grow, and the more their underſtanding opens, the more governable they are: parents treat them on the footing of friends; and, if they are deſired to do any thing they diſlike, they immediately, without any apo⯑logy, refuſe; and parents put up with this refuſal, till the child ſees it's error. But inſtances of ingratitude, in grown up children, to their aged parents, is ſcarce ever to be met with.

As ſoon as a boy can uſe his hands and feet, his father puts a bow and arrow into his hand, and teaches him to ſhoot at a target. When he is 10 years old, he [59] is equipped with a boat, and learns, in company with other boys, to row it, overſet, and riſe with it, and alſo, to fowl and to fiſh. Five or ſix years afterwards, he goes out a ſeal-fiſhing; and, the firſt ſeal he takes, is dreſſed as a feaſt to the family and neighbours, where he relates his proweſs with a degree of triumph, and the method he made uſe of to catch it. The gueſts, in their turn, commend him, extol the flavour of the meat, and, from this time, the women think of finding him a wife. But he who cannot catch a ſeal, is deſpiſed, and ob⯑liged not only to live on womens' diet, ſuch as muſ⯑cles, periwinkles, dried herrings, &c. but to perform the ſervile offices of a woman about the houſe. At 20, he makes his own boat; and, a few years after, he marries; but dwells with his parents whilſt they live, his mother retaining the management of the houſe.

Girls are but little employed till they are 14 years of age; when they begin to ſew, cook, and dreſs lea⯑ther; and, as they advance in ſtrength, row the womens' boat, and build houſes. As it is the man's buſineſs to hunt, fiſh, and procure proviſions, ſo is it the woman's to butcher and to dreſs it, for which they uſe no other knife, than ſuch as cheeſemongers uſe to cut their cheeſes. It is the province of the women alſo, to cur⯑ry and prepare the leather, and perform the office of ſhoemakers and taylors, carpenters and maſons. From their hard labour, and ſtill harder fare, women ſeldom reach the age of 50; of courſe, there are always more men than women.

[60]Their houſe-keeping and manner of living, ſeems more diſorderly and dirty, than that of a beggar, under a hedge. To ſee their dirty hands and face beſmeared with greaſe, their meat dreſſed and eaten in ſo naſty a manner, and their cloaths and ſleeping-places ſwarming with vermin, would diſguſt any one; but, ſo dreadful is the climate at times, that, in tempeſtuous weather, a European is glad to creep into their houſes and tents, for ſhelter; and, if he has nothing of his own, to ſhare their commons, and give God thanks for the bleſſing.

Dirty, however, as they are in their perſons, their pacific diſpoſition is much to be admired. Several fa⯑milies here live in one houſe; with leſs diſturbance often, than two families in one houſe with us, where thoſe families are nearly related. If any one conceives himſelf injured, he only removes to another houſe, and that without a murmur. They are happy to aſſiſt each other, and live, in ſome meaſure, in common, yet with⯑out one's relying on the labour of another. If a man returns home with proviſion in the evening, he divides it with the families under the ſame roof with him: but, poor as they may be, no one preſumes to aſk for any thing; nor, indeed, is it neceſſary, in a country where ſuch hoſpitality is practiſed.

CHAP. VIII. Of their Civil Character.

OF their civil character, in common life, we may ſay, they are diſcreet, cautious, friendly, man⯑nerly and modeſt; but they know nothing of a falſe ſhame, a jealous reſerve, or a laboured affectation: they ſtudy only to conceal their wiſhes and inclinations. They are not ſo much ambitious of cutting a figure in life, as of avoiding public odium, and rendering them⯑themſelves ridiculous. They are ſtrangers to ſalutations and tokens of reſpect, laugh at European compliments, and at a man's ſtanding uncovered, in preſence of his ſuperior; and yet, the young have a due reſpect for the aged, and each man a proper one for the other. In company, they are ſocial and jocular, and very iron⯑ical. Irony will often affect, what ſeverity and reaſon⯑ing cannot; but, if they are too much expoſed and ri⯑diculed, they are as muliſh as a reſtive horſe. Aſſiduous to pleaſe, and cautious not to diſpleaſe, they ſtudy to avoid every thing that will create uneaſineſs. Should one offend another, the party offended neither expoſtu⯑lates, nor returns any bad words. They have not a word, in their language, that expreſſes abuſe, or curſ⯑ing; of courſe, they are not very quarrelſome, or con⯑tentious. They do not contradict or interrupt any one in his diſcourſe, but one is ſuffered to finiſh his ſpeech, [62] before another begins. When they are diverted they will laugh, but never loud or boiſterouſly. They are not aſhamed of what is natural; and, ſo little idea have they of the indecency of breaking wind, or catching a louſe, and cracking it between their teeth, that they will not take a reproof for it; but yet, in company with foreigners, where they find it diſagreeable, they will always forbear it.

When they make a viſit in their boats, they never fail to take ſome eatable with them, as a preſent; if their company is liked, they are welcomed on the ſhore with ſinging, and all hands are ready to draw the boat upon land, and unload. Every one is anxious to have the gueſt, or gueſts, at his houſe; but, as the viſitor is unwilling to have it thought, that he is come abroad for what he can get, he waits, with ſilence, till he is much preſſed to partake of their hoſpitality. As ſoon as he enters, tiny kindly compel him to take off his upper⯑garment, and lend him a dry one. The men ſit among the men, and the women by themſelves. The converſation of the men, runs upon the weather, hunt⯑ing and fiſhing; and, that of the women, on the death of their relations, which they cloſe with a general howl, and then proceed to divert their gueſts with little, en⯑tertaining ſtories. All the time, the horn goes round with ſnuff, which they draw up, out of a ſtag's horn, with their noſes. Meantime, the repaſt is prepared.

[63]A Daniſh factor, having been invited to a reſpect⯑able Greenlander's, told me, his dinner conſiſted of the following diſhes: Dried ſeal; boiled ditto; half raw and rotten ditto; dried herrings; boiled willocks; a piece of half-rotten whale's tail (which is reckoned as great a delicate, as a haunch of veniſon); dried ſalmon; dried rein-deer veniſon; a deſert of crowberries, mixed with chyle from the maw of a rein-deer, and a diſh of the ſame, enriched with train-oil.

They can prolong their table-talk for ſeveral hours; which chiefly conſiſts of the proceſs of the men in ſeal⯑catching, to which the boys hearken with the eagereſt attention. If Europeans are preſent, they like to hear accounts of their country; and expreſs a deſire to live in ſuch a land: but, they no ſooner are told that it ſometime thunders, and there are no ſeals to be caught, than their inclination ſubſides, and they are happy where they are. They liſten, with pleaſure, to God and divine things, provided no application is made to themſelves, and the validity of their ſuperſtitious fables and cuſtoms is allowed.

Their traffic is very ſimple. Money they have none; of courſe, they barter with each other for what they want; and, as they are as eager for new things as children, they are for ever chopping and changing, and often to their diſadvantage. They will give the moſt uſeful article, in exchange, for a trifle that pleaſes their [64] fancy; and will reject a uſeful thing, in exchange for a bauble, if it does not pleaſe them. They ſeldom cheat, or ſteal from one another, holding it infamous ſo to do; but, they glory in over-reaching or robbing a European; eſteeming it a proof of ſuperior cle⯑verneſs.

They keep a kind of annual fair among themſelves; wherever there is a meeting of the people, as at a dancing-match, or a ſun feaſt; (which I ſhall explain hereafter), they always expoſe their wares to view, and ſay what they want to exchange. And, as the people in the ſouth have no whales, and thoſe in the north no wood, the Greenlanders coaſt the country every ſum⯑mer, from 200 to 400 leagues, with new boats and tackling, exchanging them for wood, horns of the uni⯑corn▪ [...]iſh, teeth, whale-bone, &c. part of which they truck on their way back.

In theſe voyages, they take their whole family and property with them; and perhaps, ſtay ſome years be⯑fore they return; for, wherever the winter overtakes them, there they tarry, erect a houſe, and provide them⯑ſelves food for the winter months. The land and ſea is every where their own; and, they have thus friends and acquaintance in every place.

Their trade with the factories, is in fox and ſeal-ſkins, and blubber; and the articles they take in exchange, are [65] iron-points for their darts, knives, lock-ſaws, gimblets, chiſſels and needles; ſtriped linen, cotton, kerſeys, woollen ſtockings and caps, handkerchiefs, boxes, wood⯑en diſhes, pewter plates, copper kettles, looking-glaſſes, combs, ribbands, and toys for children. They are very fond of ſnuff, powder and ſhot. A little tobacco, which they uſe only as ſnuff, they expect for every ſmall ſervice they do. For a ſmall quantity of tobacco, they will give you a couple of handfuls of uncleanſed eider down, a parcel of eggs, or a diſh of fiſh; and, many a ſpendthrift, will part with the cloaths from his back, and bring penury on his family, rather than deny the cravings of his noſe.

The ſun-feaſt, I mentioned, is not a religious cere⯑mony; but, a rejoicing, at the return of the ſun, in the winter ſolſtice, about the 22d of December. On this occaſion, they aſſemble, all over the country, in large parties, and treat one another with the greateſt hoſ⯑pitality. When they have feaſted, till they are ready to burſt, they riſe up to play, and to dance; but, having nothing but water to drink, they cannot intoxicate themſelves. The only muſical inſtrument they have, is a drum, like a tambour, which the drummer beats with a ſtick to common time, ſkipping at every ſtroke he gives, and making all manner of antic motions with his head and his body. This muſic he accompa⯑nies with a ſong, in honour of ſeal-catching, and ex⯑preſſes [66] his joy at the return of the ſun, it is choruſſed by the auditory, as follows:

When one is tired, another begins; and thus they continue, the whole night through; the next day they ſleep, and, in the evening, ſtuff, dance, and ſing again. This feſtival laſts ſeveral days and nights, till they are quite exhauſted, and have nothing to eat.

They have ſtill other amuſements. When the moon ſhines, they play at ball; and they have various me⯑thods of trying each others ſtrength; ſuch, as ſtriking one another on the bare back with the fiſt, and trying who can hold out the longeſt; ſitting down, and linking legs and arms together, endeavouring to out-pull each other, hooking their fingers together, and trying their ſtrength, by drawing, &c.

Dancing aſſemblies are appointed, alſo, at other ſeaſons of the year, when they abound with ſtores, and, if the weather is unfavourable to procure more at theſe times, they traffic and truck.

[67]But, the moſt ſingular thing in Greenland, is their ſinging and dancing combats, by which they decide their quarrels. If a man conceives himſelf injured, he does not vent his anger in quarrelſome words, nor pro⯑ceed to any revenge, but compoſes a ſatirical poem; this he rehearſes ſo often, with ſinging and dancing, before his family, that they all get it by heart. The man publiſhes his deſign of fighting with his antagoniſt; not with a ſword, but a ſong, and a place of meeting is appointed. The party challenged, attends at the place, encircled with his friends, when the challenger begins his ſong, to the beat of a drum, and cho⯑ruſſed by his party, with Amna ajah. In this ſong, he diſcharges ſo many mortifying truths at his adverſary, that the ſtanders-by have their fill of laughing. When he has done, the accuſer renews his attack, and ſo on; and, he that has the laſt word, gains his cauſe. On theſe occaſions, they will ſpeak cutting truths; but, without rudeneſs, or paſſion. The body of the people preſent conſtitute the jury, beſtow the laurel, and the two contending parties become good friends.

It would be happy for other nations, if quarrels were terminated in the ſame way. No one can blame this mirthful mode of putting malevolence to the bluſh, and of puniſhing offenders by public defamation, among a ſavage people, without religion, and, without any political conſtitution. They live, as our anceſtors did, immediately after the flood, before they learned to [68] covet another man's property, or rob their fellow-creature of his honour, his ſubſtance, his liberty, or his life. A father governs his own family in the beſt manner he can; but never preſumes to command, out of that circle.

Should there be a fire under the ſame roof, more ac⯑quainted with the weather, or a better ſeal-catcher than ordinary, he is looked up to, and attended to, in other matters; is allowed the beſt end of the houſe to live in, generally the north end; and, if any refuſe to obey his dictates, they will not live in the ſame houſe with him another winter.

Families are ſo attached to each other, that they keep together as long as they live, in order to aſſiſt one another, if occaſion requires. Where a number of boats go together in company, they generally follow the wiſeſt man, or the beſt pilot. No one preſumes to uſurp the leaſt authority over another; nor call him to account for his private actions. And, as they have no overplus, or riches, they are never called on to con⯑tribute to the public weal.

Mr. Delager, in his relation of the ways and cuſtoms of the Greenlanders, ſays, the whole country ſtands open before them. Every man may go and live where he will; but, if he finds inhabitants already ſettled on the intended ſpot, he will not land, till an intimation is [69] given him, that he is welcome there. Hunting and fiſhing, which is all the land affords, has no game-act to reſtrain it, but is every where free to all; nor does any one think of a proſecution. If a perfect ſtranger comes to reap in the harveſt that God hath given, at a good fiſhery, nay, even at a ſalmon-wier, which others have erected with great trouble; they are only required not to harm, nor frighten the fiſh away. Should ſtrangers act againſt this order, the inhabitants will rather go away themſelves, and put up with the loſs, than quarrel with them. Whoever finds drift-wood, or the ſpoils of a ſhipwreck, on the ſtrand, enjoys it as his own, though he does not live there. But he muſt hawl it aſhore, and lay a ſtone upon it, as a token, that ſome one has taken poſſeſſion of it; and this ſtone is their deed of ſecurity, for no other Greenlander will offer to meddle with it afterwards. If a ſeal eſcapes from a man, with his javelin in it, and another man afterwards kills it, it belongs to the firſt man that ſtruck it; but, if the creature is ſtruck with the harpoon and bladder, and the ſtring breaks, he that threw firſt, loſes his right. If two ſtrike a ſeal at the ſame time, they divide it between them. Fowling rules are the ſame. If any one finds a dead ſeal, with a harpoon in it, he keeps the ſeal, but reſtores the harpoon to him that loſt it. If they catch a ſea-cow, or any other ſuch animal of the ocean, he that caſt the weapon, claims the head and tail for his own; but, of the carcaſe, every man may cut off as much as he can. In ſhort, they have a variety of [70] uſages with reſpect to property among them; and, how⯑ever abſurd ſome of them may be, yet, they never like alterations; and their final reaſon is,—‘The cuſtom is now ſo.’

CHAP. IX. Of their Moral Character.

WE wiſh we were able to ſpeak deciſively, upon their moral character, as we have done upon their civil one. Conſidering, that the Greenlanders act not by the light of nature, or revelation, it is ſurpriſing to find ſo many lovely and laudable qualities in them; qualities, that muſt often put chriſtians to the bluſh: but, as they ground their good diſpoſitions, on a bad principle, namely, ſelfiſhneſs, it will naturally be ſup⯑poſed, they muſt frequently act in oppoſition to our notions of right and wrong. Though the natives of Greenland are a ſavage people, untaught and uncivi⯑lized, they are ſtrangers to many vices, which other nations are addicted to. We hear no curſing among them, ſwearing, ſcolding, or noiſy contentions; no bawling, loud laughter, contradicting, detracting, or railing; and, though they delight in returning an un⯑becoming action, with irony, and humourous contempt, yet they make uſe of no coarſe, much leſs immodeſt joke, no bitter mockery, no filthineſs, nor foolery. [71] Lying, cheating, and ſtealing, are ſeldom heard of; and violent aſſaults, or highway robberies, never. Drunk⯑enneſs is unknown in Greenland; as to obſcenity, not the leaſt trace of it can ever be diſcovered, either in their converſation, or their conduct; and, in all their feſtive meetings, to which old and young reſort, nothing is ſeen or heard, that can put even modeſty to the bluſh. Though their children are bred up without education, they are naturally tractable and governable, and give their parents very little vexation; and, when they arrive at the years of maturity, they are ſo far from being diſobedient, ungrateful, or neglectful of their aged parents, that a ſon and his wife, will often com⯑pliment an old, peeviſh mother, with the diſpoſal of their whole property.

Now, as the Greenlanders are not influenced by laws, either human or divine; to what are we to attri⯑bute theſe ſpecious virtues? One would ſuppoſe, to reaſon, or common ſenſe; as we cannot obſerve, in them, however, any reflection, or conſideration; but, that a general heedleſſneſs is their characteriſtic; I am inclined to think, ſays Crantz, that their moral actions muſt proceed more from inſtinct, than from principles; and, that this inſtinct ſhews itſelf in a quick ſenſibility, in caſes of ſelf-love, profit, fear, and ſhame.

That they are as naturally prone to evil, as the reſt of mankind, is beyond a doubt; but the fear of re⯑taliation [72] of evil, reſtrains them from many vices; and, the dread of a bad, or nick-name, from more. Their ſocial and amicable diſpoſition, and their univerſal hoſpitality, does not proceed from an innate bene⯑volence, or commiſeration for the helpleſs, but from ſelf-love, and intereſt. They give, in hopes of re⯑ceiving again, ſhould they ſtand in need of it; and, they are hoſpitable, that they may be treated hoſpitably in return. They are pretty well verſed in that faſhionable morality, called ſaving appearances. You will ſeldom find a Greenlander do a good office, without the mercenary view of ſome ſpeedy retribution. Should a ſtranger die, and leave a helpleſs family, without a near relation to befriend them, no one will take charge of that family, except one who wants a maid ſervant; but they will, unfeelingly, ſuffer the poor wretches to die with cold and hunger. If perſons, on ſhore, ſee a boat overſet, at ſea; if he is not a relation, or one that has ſerved them, they will look on, with indifference, and ſee him periſh. But, among relations, there are traces of much ſtronger love, than is to be met with m more civilized countries. Many a mother has thrown herſelf into the ſea, becauſe her child was drowned; ſo is it with irrational animals; though they are inſen⯑ſible to the pain and pleaſure of their fellow-creatures, their love and concern for their own young, is ſo much the ſtronger;—another reaſon to believe, that the Green⯑landers are actuated by inſtinct, rather than by human reaſon. They ſeem, likewiſe, to have no gratitude; for, [73] if a European does them a piece of ſervice, their mere thanks are all they are diſpoſed to return; ſhould their benefactor at any time be in want of their ſervices, he would not often find it. When they are dreſſed in their beſt cloaths, they will ſtrut about in their finery, and look down on all around them with contempt, eſ⯑pecially if they can boaſt of any extraordinary dexterity, or have been fortunate in ſeal-catching. If their paſ⯑ſions, (which they have art enough occaſionally to con⯑ceal) once break out, they rage with more than brutal fury. What they have a mind to do, muſt be done, and nothing can perſuade them againſt their inclinations.

Though, as we have obſerved, they are remarkably chaſte in public, they are as much the reverſe in pri⯑vate, as other nations. Their polygamy does not ariſe from a deſire of population, but chiefly from luſt. Though a ſingle woman ſeldom proſtitutes her perſon; married women will, where they can, and without a bluſh.

Their treatment of poor diſtreſſed widows, is not only unjuſt, but barbarous. If the widow has no near relations, ſhe is ſuffered to lie on the ground with her helpleſs children, bewailing the death of her huſ⯑band almoſt to diſtraction; and her viſitors, whilſt they bear the compliments of condolence on their tongues, will clandeſtinely ſtrip her of her little property; and, the unhappy, deſpoiled wretch, having no court of ju⯑dicature [74] to lodge her complaint in, is left to the diſagreeable alternative of lying down to ſtarve, or ingratiating herſelf, perhaps, with him who has been her greateſt plunderer. He will, in all likelihood, keep her for a time, and, if ſhe cannot get into the favour of another, ſhe is left with her children to protract life a little longer, by eating fiſhes, muſcles, and ſea-graſs; but, having neither cloaths nor lamp-oil, muſt finally ſtarve and freeze to death. This probably is one rea⯑ſon why the Greenland people annually diminiſh. Nay, what is ſtill worſe, if a mother dies, and leaves a ſucking babe, that cannot yet digeſt groſs food, and there is no one to nurſe it, the father will frequently bury it alive with the mother. He does not do this but with the moſt painful ſenſations, but neceſſity drives him to it. Many an old, ſickly widow, that has no wealthy relations to ſupport her, is alſo buried alive; and children will tell you that ſhe is thus re⯑lieved from a lingering death. Where perſons have no friends at all, they will leave them to die unnoticed and unburied.

In criminal caſes, where any occur, the proceſs is ſtill more diſorderly and ſavage. No tranſgreſſors are puniſhed with death but murderers, and perſons ſup⯑poſed to be witches, and to have bewitched others to death. If the friends of the murdered man diſcover the murderer, they will ſtifle their reſentment till an opportunity of revenge offers, which they never for⯑get, [75] though at the diſtance of thirty or forty years, but will, when they meet the murderer alone, attack him, tell him the reaſon of their doing ſo, ſtab him, and throw his body into the ſea.

CHAP. X. Of the Superſtition of the Greenlanders.

TO ſpeak of the religion of the Greenlanders, we cannot, for they have none. Neither are they idolaters; but we may ſay ſomething of their ſuper⯑ſtition, of which they have a great deal. They have ſome traditionary, confuſed notions of the creation, the flood, and a future ſtate; but they are ſo enveloped in idle tales, as to bear very little affinity to the truth. Some have an idea of a Supreme being, from a con⯑viction that man could not be the maker of himſelf, and ſuch as are bleſſed with this notion, are readily converted to chriſtianity. The Moravians, who have a miſſionary at each colony, are taking great pains to inculcate among them goſpel-truths. Some of theſe people conceive they have two ſouls, viz. the ſhadow and the breath of a man; and imagine, that in the night, when they dream, the volatile ſhadow elopes from the body, and roams about hunting, dancing, viſiting, and the like. It is this ſect that ſupport a ſet of conjurors, whom they call Angekoks; who pretend [76] to have the art of repairing a maimed ſoul, of bring⯑ing home a fugitive one, and changing a ſickly one for the ſound one of a rein-deer, a hare, a bird, or an infant. This doctrine of tranſmigration of ſouls is particularly encouraged by helpleſs widows, who, in order to allure the bounty of parents, will tell a father that the ſoul of her deceaſed child is flown into his ſon, or that the ſoul of his deceaſed ſon has taken up it's reſidence in one of her children. By thus impoſing on his credulity, ſhe leads him to ſuppoſe that he is related to her, and, of courſe, will be her friend in future.

But the moſt ſenſible Geeenlanders think of the ſoul as we do, and that it ſurvives after death; but they differ much in their opinion with reſpect to the place or ſituation of a future ſtate. Some ſuppoſe it in the abyſſes of the ocean, as they draw their beſt ſuſtenance from the boſom of the ſea; others, conceive it is in the bowels of the earth, and that the caverns in the rocks are the avenues leading to it. There, ſay they, dwells Torngarſuk, (that is, the good ſpirit,) and his mother (the evil one,) there, is a joyous, perpetual ſum⯑mer, a ſhining ſun that never ſets; there, is the fair, limpid ſtream, and a profuſion of fowl, fiſhes, rein-deer, and ſeals, all to be caught without toil; and none are admitted there but ſuch as are dextrous and dili⯑gent, ſuch as have maſtered many whales and ſeals, un⯑dergone great hardſhips, have been drowned at ſea, or died in child-bed. Others that are more charmed [77] with the beauty of the heavenly bodies, carry their thoughts beyond the rainbow, ſeek their paradiſe in the high empyreum, and conceive the flight of the ſoul thither, to be ſo rapid and eaſy, that it reſts, the evening it departs, in the manſion of the moon, who was a Greenlander, and dances with thoſe ſportive ſpirits, of which they ſuppoſe the northern lights to conſiſt.

The wiſer Greenlanders laugh at all this, and ſay, if there is ſuch a luxurious paradiſe, where the ſouls of men ſhall be entertained with hunting, it can only en⯑dure for a time; that they will afterwards be conveyed to more peaceful manſions, of whoſe nature they have no conception. They believe alſo in a hell, and ſup⯑poſe it to be ſome ſubterraneous region, without light or heat, and filled with terror and anxiety. From theſe ideas, ſuch people lead a regular life, and refrain from evil, through a principle of hope and fear.

Theſe notions muſt have ariſen from the truths of the patriarchal religion, handed down to poſterity by tradition, but veiled and blended with new additions, according to the diſtance of time, from the days of Noah. When we come to treat of the more northerly American Indians, and the Aſiatic Tartars, between whom and the Greenlanders there is a pretty great re⯑ſemblance in their notions, morals, and manners, and of whom we conceive the Greelanders to be a branch, [78] we ſhall ſee that the further the ſavage nations wander⯑ed towards the north, the fewer of their ancient con⯑ceptions and cuſtoms tliey retained. If the preſent natives of Greenland are thought to be a remnant of the old Norway chriſtians, which is not impoſſible, they may have derived their notions from them.

Beſides the ſoul of man, the Greenlanders conceive there are ſuperior and inferior ſpirits; of the firſt, that there are two only, one good and one bad. Torngar⯑ſuk is their good ſpirit, and him whom the Angekoks, or conjurors, conſult. The bad ſpirit is a, female, ſome think Torngarſuk's wife, and ſome his mother, who dwells under the ſea in a great manſion, where ſhe can detain all the animals of the ocean, by her magic power.

Theſe Angekoks, or ſoothſayers, have been in great repute among the Greenlanders, and men have had re⯑courſe to a variety of arts, tricks, and deceptions, to gain the credit of a magician; but, when that credit is once obtained, they are applied to by all the credulous, to learn whether they ſhall have a good or bad fiſhery, (which theſe people are able to judge of from the wea⯑ther) and to know how to act when they are ſick, and ſo on. Senſible men, under the denomination of An⯑gekoks, may do ſome good, but there are many old hags who take up this profeſſion, and who have no other means of gaining a livelihood; the miſſionaties, [79] however, have of late ſo expoſed their arts and roguery, that they begin to grow into diſrepute, and chriſtianity gains ground daily.

CHAP. XI. Of their Knowledge.

THE reader may probably wiſh to be made ac⯑quainted with the degree of knowledge the Greenlanders in general poſſeſs.—This is very little. Their language which is gutteral, and rather un⯑pleaſant to the ear, may claim ſome kindred with the Norwegian tongue, relics perhaps of the old Nor⯑wegians; it has no affinity with any of the northern, Tartarean, or Indian languages, except that of the Eſ⯑quimaux, in Terra Labrador, who ſeem to be one people with the Greenlanders. Their words are varied and declined, and of courſe their language is not near ſo raw and incomplete, as might be expected from ſo unrefined a people. The following is a ſpecimen of part of the Apoſtles Creed.

Dominuin meum in; a ſpiritu ſancto cum eſſet conceptus, Nalegauti-nut Annernerub ajunginnerub pimmago,

[80]They are tolerably well verſed in genealogy, and can trace their pedigree back as far as ten generations, with all the collateral branches, which is of great ſer⯑vice to a needy perſon, for no one is aſhamed of his poor relations; and if any one in diſtreſs can make it appear that he is any way related to a wealthy Green⯑lander he will not want for ſupport.

Of writing they have no conception, nor can they count more than twenty; they contrive, however, to reckon their years by winters, and their days by nights; but when they get beyond twenty, they leave off counting.

They have a very imperfect knowledge of aſtronomy, conceiving the firmament to reſt on a lofty, pointed hill, in the north, and performing it's revolutions on that centre; the celeſtial bodies they tell you, were once Greenlanders or animals, tranſported there by ſome peculiar fatality, and that the planets in their con⯑junctions, are two females, wrangling together. Shoot⯑ing ſtars, they ſay, are ſouls going from heaven to make a viſit to hell; and they have other abſurd ſtories to tell reſpecting moſt of the ſtars and planets.

In phyſic, they have methods of curing themſelves when ſick; and in ſurgery, of bleeding, ſetting a frac⯑ture, and couching an eye.

[81]Should all their remedies fail, and a Greenlander be on the point of death, they dreſs him in his beſt cloaths and boots, and bind his legs up to his hips, that his grave may be the ſhorter. When dead, they carry every thing within the houſe into the air, that the ſmell of the corpſe may go off; they then ſilently bemoan him, for about an hour, and proceed to bury him, which is done uſually in ſome high, remote place, the neareſt relation carrying the body on his back, which, ſewed up in a ſkin, is laid on ſome moſs, or on a ſkin on the ground (for dig, they cannot, in a rock), and heaped round and covered with great, broad ſtones, to keep it from the birds, and foxes. Near the ſpot, they depoſit the boat and tools of the deceaſed, which he daily uſed; and, if a woman, her knife and ſewing implements. After the interment, thoſe who attended the proceſſion, retire to the houſe of mourning. The men ſit a-while, leaning with their elbows on their knees, and their heads between their hands, and the women lying proſtrate with their faces on the ground, ſoftly weeping and ſobbing. At laſt, the father, ſon, or neareſt relation, repeats a funeral diſcourſe, or elegy, in praiſe of the deceaſed; and, at every period, his death is lamented, with loud crying and weeping. The fol⯑lowing is the lamentation of a father over his ſon, taken from Mr. Dellager's account.

‘Woe is me, that I ſee thy wonted ſeat, but ſee it empty! Vain are thy mother's toils of love, to dry [82] thy garments. Lo, my joy is gone into darkneſs; it is crept into the caverns of the mountains! Once, when the even came, I went out, and was glad: I ſtretechd out my eager eye, and waited thy return. Behold, thou cameſt! Thou cameſt manfully rowing on; vying with old and young. Never didſt thou return empty from the ſea; thy kajak brought it's never-failing load of ſeals, or ſea-fowl. Thy mother, ſhe kindled the fire, and boiled; ſhe boiled, what thy hand acquired. Thy mother, ſhe ſpread thy booty before many invited gueſts; and I, took my portion among them. Thou eſpyeſt the ſhallop's ſcarlet ſtreamer, from a-far, and joyfully ſhoutedſt—Behold, the factor cometh! Thou ſkippedſt over the ſtrand with haſte, and thy hand took hold of the gunnel of the ſhallop. Then were thy ſeals produced; and, thy mother, ſeparated the blubber: for this, thou receiveſt ſhirts of linen, and iron barbs for thy ſpears and arrows. But now, alas! 'tis over. When I think on thee, my bowels are moved within me. Oh! could I weep, like others; for then might I alleviate my pain! What ſhall I wiſh for more on earth! Death is now become the moſt deſireable thing. But then, who ſhall provide for my wife, and the reſt of my tender children? I will ſtill live a little while; but, however, my joy ſhall conſiſt in a perpetual abſtinence from all that is eligible to man, &c.’

[83]The ditty ended, the women continue their howl in one tremulous tone, the men only ſobbing. At laſt, the victuals left by the deceaſed are ſpread on the floor before the mourners, who eat heartily, and never fail to repeat their viſits daily, whilſt there is any thing left to eat, which may be a week or a fortnight. All condoling viſitors afterwards are received by the miſ⯑treſs of the houſe, with a ‘Him that you ſeek, you will find no more; alas, ye come too late,’ and this accompanied with a howl. Where the father of a family dies, thoſe who come to condole with the widow, (which they continue doing ten or twelve months, till ſhe goes abroad,) endeavour to take ſome⯑thing away with them at every viſit, either ſecretly or openly, (if the next of kin has not influence to prevent it,) till ſhe is at laſt ſtripped ſo bare, that many a poor woman, with her children, dies of hunger and cold.

CHAP. XII. Some further Account of the Greenlanders.

THE foregoing accounts having been collected from the writings of thoſe who were eye-wit⯑neſſes to what they told, and as they relate to the in⯑habitants on the weſtern coaſt of Greenland, I will [84] cloſe this deſcription with ſome further account of the inhabitants on the eaſtern ſide, collected from the mouths of Greenlanders themſelves, as ſet forth in Crantz's hiſtory of that country; it is a kind of journal, told by a native, who came, among others, to viſit at one of the Daniſh colonies in 1752.

One of theſe travellers, who, after he comes to Onar⯑tok, has five days journey to his own houſe, and, con⯑ſequently, lives 60 leagues up, on the eaſt ſide, from la⯑titude 65°, told us, that he lodged two men laſt winter, who ſaid, that they and a third had made a three year's excurſion on the eaſt ſide in their womens'-boats. He could not tell us the native place or habitation of theſe ſtrangers, only, that it was very far diſtant from him, north-eaſtward. According to their account, they tarried the firſt winter by the way; the ſecond year they proceeded as far as the ice would permit them; and the third year they returned. They had been ſo high on the eaſtern coaſt, that the ſun did not quite ſet in ſum⯑mer, but illuminated the mountains even at midnight, which agrees with the 66th deg. In their way, they were obliged, at times, to draw their tent and boat acroſs the ice, upon a ſledge, by dogs. They always kept under the coaſt, and never put far off to ſea, on account of the ice, though there was plenty of ice all under the land; but it is there ſooner diſſolved by the ſun, and carried away by the current, than off at ſea. They gave us to underſtand, that the people on the eaſt ſide are bigger [85] than thoſe on the weſt; that they have black hair, great beards, and look brown, like the reſt of the Greenlanders; that their dialect was nearly like their own, but with a kind of ſinging tone; that they had neither trees nor graſs, rein-deer nor hares, becauſe they did not touch on the main-land, but continued upon the iſlands; but that they had ſeen many ſeals, whales, red-fiſh, ſoles, eider⯑fowls, partridges and foxes, which conſtituted the food of the inhabitants, whom they reported as numerous and friendly; that they diſcovered a fine inlet, and wiſhed to go up it, but were afraid of the canibals or men-eaters, ſaid to dwell in thoſe parts. It is ſuppoſed there are, or were ſuch a claſs of ſavages, for all Greenlanders have a dread of them. According to the opinion of this traveller, neceſſity firſt led them to this inhuman practice; being once reduced by a famine and a ſevere winter; and, from reliſhing human fleſh, they had accuſtomed them⯑ſelves to eat their dead, by laying them in a pit with other meat, and eating it raw, when half rotten and frozen. Even in time of dearth, unwilling to ſlaughter middle-aged perſons, they put to death old people and forſaken orphans; and will, at ſuch time, ſpare their dogs in preference, on account of their uſefulneſs. They build their houſes of ſtone, like the weſtern Greenlanders, and lay wooden rafters on the walls, though wood there is very ſcarce. They dreſs like other natives, though their cloaths are not ſo well made, having no iron needles. They had never ſeen a ſhip, [86] and had no boat with ſails; in other reſpects, their kajaks and womens' boats were like thoſe in other parts. He knew nothing of their religious notions, only, that they had Angekoks, or conjurers, there alſo.

A certain factor, ſays Crantz, alſo gave me the fol⯑lowing intelligence. In the year 1757, a man from the ſouth wintered with us, and told us, that he had learned from ſome Greenlanders, who came from the eaſtern ſide, that there were people inhabiting a certain inlet between the mountains, who came down to the ſea-coaſt, every ſpring, in great numbers; that the Greenlanders of thoſe parts fled always at their approach to the neighbouring iſlands; that thoſe who followed them could not get at them for want of boats, but ſhot after them with arrows, which they carried on their backs in quivers; and that theſe men, having plundered and deſtroyed their houſes, retired into the mountains with the ſpoils.

If theſe reports can be relied on, it is probable, that the above-mentioned canibals and theſe men are one and the ſame people, who, deſcended from the old Norwegians, may have ſheltered themſelves from the ſavages, in the neighbouring mountains, continued their enmity out of revenge for the murder of their anceſ⯑tors, ravaged them in the ſpring, when proviſions failed them, and were conſidered by the ſavages, through [87] exceſs of fear, as no other than canibals. Indeed, the women, in the weſt, often tattle to their children of mountain-ſpirits, ſome ſixteen feet high, ſome ſcarce a foot in height, from whom the Europeans learned their arts; and about a people on the eaſtern-coaſt, who were man-eaters, and had a face like a dog.

CHAP. I. Of the Country in general.

ICELAND is an iſland in the north-ſeas, between Greenland and Norway, not farther than 40 miles diſtant from the eaſtern coaſt of Greenland; it lies be⯑tween the latitudes of 63 and 67 degrees. Beſſeſted, the chief place, lies in 64 deg. 4 m. north latitude, and 25 deg. weſt from the meridian of London, that is, 4 degrees farther eaſtward than it has been hitherto de⯑ſcribed. It's extent has not been accurately aſcer⯑tained, but Horrebow computes it to be about 500 Engliſh miles, from eaſt to weſt, and about 250 Engliſh miles from north to ſouth. Von Troil computes it's length about 360 Britiſh ſea-miles, and 240 in breadth. [104] However, it is juſtly claſſed among the largeſt iſlands in the known world, and is but little inferior in mag⯑nitude to the iſland of Great-Britain.

The country does not afford a pleaſing view to the eye of a traveller, for it is uneven, covered with rocks and rugged mountains, and continually cloathed with ice and ſnow, with barren fields between them, deſti⯑tute of wood, and encruſted with lava for many miles.

It is croſſed in ſeveral directions by innumerable ridges of lofty mountains, higheſt in the centre, ſo as to divide it into four quarters; and theſe mountains, with the rocks, reſemble thoſe in Norway, and a great part of Italy. The whole iſland ſeems to have been laid waſte by it's volcanoes. Some few iſlands, lying off the coaſt, are very fertile, and bear good graſs, but they are not inhabited. Indeed, Iceland itſelf has but few inhabitants, there being neither towns or villages in any part of it, unleſs a few ſcattered houſes can be called a village. Farms, indeed, of ſome magnitude are met with throughout the whole interior part, except where the mountains interpoſe; and round each farm-houſe are a few ſtraggling cottages, the dwellings of the te⯑nants, who procure from the proprietor a houſe, and as much paſture-land as will keep them two or three horſes and cows. Theſe farms belong either to the king of Denmark, the church, or the peaſants themſelves; and of theſe farms, of which there are 4,059 through⯑out [105] out the iſland; 718 belonging to the king, 649 to the two biſhops of Skallholt and Hoolum there reſiding, 780 to the clergy, 20 to the poor, and the reſt to the farmers themſelves. The value of a farm that will keep 10 horſes, 10 cows, and 400 ſheep; is about 120 rix-dollars, each dollar 4s. 6d. Engliſh.

In the interior parts, are very extenſive heaths and plains, bounded by mountains, the greateſt part of which, are not ſo difficult to paſs as the Alps and Pyrenees, but have roads over them, where ſome hundreds of horſes and men paſs every year. The people of the north, travel acroſs the large chain of rocks that run along the country; and fetch their winter-ſtock of dried fiſh from the ſouth and weſt. On the top of ſome of theſe mountains, are plains, of the extent of 20 or 25 miles; and, in ſeveral parts of the iſland, are lakes, abounding with a variety of fine fiſh.

To be ſenſible of the dreadful effects of volcanoes in this iſland, the country itſelf need only to be con⯑ſidered. The mountains are almoſt wholly compoſed of lava, and the plains are cruſted over with the ſame; but covered, in many ſpots, with earth and turf. Large tracts of land have been laid waſte by their irruptions; and their aſhes have frequently buried the fields, half a yard deep, and 20 or 30 miles in extent. In 1311, 22 farms were conſumed; and 70, in 1366. Mount Heckla, which is a volcano more tremendous than [106] Veſuvius, deſtroyed two farms in 1374; ſeven, in 1390, and eighteen, in one day, in 1436.

Mount Heckla, the largeſt vulcano in Iceland, is ſeen by all the ſhips ſailing to Greenland and North America; it is ſituated it the ſouth part of the iſland, about four miles from the ſea-coaſt, and is di⯑vided into three points at the top, the higheſt of which is in the middle, and is, according to exact obſervation, more than five thouſand feet above the level of the ſea. Sir Joſeph Banks, Dr. Solander, and Dr. Von Troil, aſcended it in September, 1772. They rode on horſeback to the firſt opening from which the fire had burſt, which, ſay they, is a place ſurrounded with glazed walls add vitrified cliffs, that they knew not how to deſcribe. A little higher up they found a great quantity of grit and ſtones, and ſtill farther on another opening not very deep, but where they obſerved evident marks of hot, boiling water. As they aſcended higher, the mountain was covered with ſnow, and about 200 yards below the ſummit, they diſcovered a hole of about four feet and a half diameter, from which ſo hot a ſteam exhaled, that they could not aſcertain the degree of heat by a thermometer they had with them.

When they reached the ſummit, which they did by climbing, they found a ſpace of ground eight yards in breadth and twenty long, free from ſnow. The ſand, [107] however was wet, as if the ſnow had juſt melted away. At this place, Fahrenheit's thermometer, when held in the air, ſtood at 24, but, when ſet on the ground, it roſe to 153. The barometer was here at 22.247, and the thermometer at 38. It emitted ſome flames in the very month they viſited it, but ſent forth no lava.

Anderſon, in his account of Iceland, tells us, that, about three Engliſh miles from Heckla, there is a ſmall, freſh-water lake, always warm, but rather hotter in the winter; and, according to accounts of people in the neighbourhood, endowed with the peculiar property of taking fire three times a year, and burning for about a fortnight, in ſmall, bright flames: but, as neither Horre⯑bow nor Von Troil, who were both in this neighbour⯑hood, have mentioned this, it is to be doubted. Certain it is, that the country abounds with hot, ſpouting water⯑ſprings, (which we ſhall preſently ſpeak of,); and from a variety of mountains, whoſe tops are covered with ſnow, flames of fire will often guſh out. From ſome of the mountains alſo flow large and ſmall rivers, which water the country below, and yield very fine fiſh.

Hot ſprings are found in many parts of Iceland; from ſome the water flows gently, as from other ſprings, and it is then called laug, that is, a bath; from others it ſpouts boiling-water with a great noiſe, and is then called buer or kittel, (kettle). I have viſited, ſays Horrebow, many of theſe warm baths, but never found the leaſt [108] appearance of ſulphur near them (though Von Troil ſays, he taſted ſulphur in them), nor do the waters taſte of any mineral. Though the degree of heat, in theſe ſprings, is unequal, I do not remember, ſays Von Troil, ever to have obſerved it under 188 of Fahrenheit's thermometer; in ſome places, we found it 193; at an⯑other, where the moſt remarkable boiling fountain is, 213 degrees. If you fill a bottle at one of theſe ſpouting ſprings, ſays Horrebow, the water, contained in the bottle, will boil up two or three times, at the ſame time with the water in the well; and, if the bottles are corked up as ſoon as filled, they will burſt. This water, when cold, is pleaſant to drink; and cows, that drink of it, yield a greater proportion of milk. The inhabitants uſe theſe waters for various purpoſes; ſome uſe it for dying; others, boil their meat in in, by putting the meat in a veſſel of cold water, and ſetting it in the hot ſpring; others, bend hoops, of great thickneſs, with it, and others, bathe in it, and waſh with it.

In the midſt of theſe ſpouts, an enormous fountain of boiling water riſes, by ſtarts, at certain intervals, from 20 to 60 feet in height, attended with a ſtupendous roar. The depth of the opening, from whence this water iſſues, could not be aſcertained; for, ſometimes, the water ſunk down ſeveral fathoms, and ſome ſeconds paſſed before a ſtone, that was thrown in, reached the ſurface. The opening itſelf is perfectly round, 19 feet in diameter, and forming above, on the ſurface of the ground, a baſon, 59 feet in diameter, whoſe edge is nine feet above the orifice, or hole.

The ſtrength of the vapour, that throws up this water, is exceſſive. It not only prevents the ſtones, thrown in, from ſinking; but even caſts them up, with the water, to a very height.

[110]Baſaltine pillars, like the giant's-cauſeway, in Ire⯑land, are very common in Iceland, ſuppoſed to have been produced by ſubterranean fires; in ſome places, they extend two or three miles in length, without in⯑terruption.

Some have been of opinion, that the whole iſland was at once produced by fire; but this may be a raſh conjecture; it has rather been the work of ſome cen⯑turies, by ſeveral cliffs and rocks being produced at different times, whoſe points have been connected by new eruptions, and which have formed the baſis of the whole iſland. It is certain that earthquakes here are very frequent, before the volcanos break forth. In September, 1755, fifteen violent ſhocks were felt with⯑in a few days; and it is not uncommon to ſee whole farms over-turned by them, and large mountains burſt aſunder; but, by no means, does ſuch direful deſtruc⯑tion enſue, as from earthquakes in other countries.

CHAP. II. On the Climate.

AFTER all, Iceland is a healthy country to live in. The uſual heat is not extreme, nor the cold in general very ſevere. The air and weather, [111] ſays Horrebow, will agree better with a ſtranger, than the air and weather would with an Icelander in Den⯑mark. It is much ſuch a climate as that of Denmark, with this difference, that the windy and ſtormy wea⯑ther in Iceland is more frequent. In very cold ſeaſons, the mercury in the barometer has been 24 degrees be⯑low the freezing point, and at other times it has riſen to 104 degrees.

Thunder and lightning here are very rare, and met with only in the neighbourhood of volcanoes, of which there are about twenty in the iſland. Northern-lights are uncommonly ſtrong, tinged with yellow, green, and purple; and vapours of the ignis-fatuus kind are often ſeen attaching themſelves to men and beaſts.

The Icelanders reckon their ſummer from the mid⯑dle of April to the middle of October, and the reſt of the year with them is winter; no ſpring or autumn; but it ſnows and hails ſometimes in ſummer, as it does in Denmark; and, what is remarkable, a north-wind ſeldom brings froſt.

It never freezes to ſuch a degree in Iceland, as to cover the ſea about the ſhores with ice. The only ice that incommodes and hinders the inhabitants from put⯑ting out to ſea, is in the north, and is that which comes floating from Greenland; ſometimes ſpreading itſelf [112] many miles about the northern coaſt; and ſometimes filling the eye with appearances of mountains and dales, and animals running up and down them.

CHAP. III. On the Productions.

WHERE volcanoes, or burning mountains, are, there pumice-ſtone is generally found; of courſe, there is plenty in Iceland. It alſo abounds with ores, iron, copper and ſilver; but they are never ſought after. The mountains contain roſin, pitch, and other bituminous matter. Sulphur is never found above ground; but there is plenty beneath the ſurface. About three feet under ground, in many places, ten tons weight may be collected in an hour's time. On account of the heat of the ground, under which it lies, the la⯑bourers dig for it in the ſummer-nights, and tie woollen rags about their ſhoes, to keep them from burning. When the brimſtone is firſt taken out, it is ſo hot, that it ſcarcely can be handled. If they clear out a vein of ſulphur, it will fill again in two or three years, ſo ſur⯑priſing is its vegetation. There are, alſo, many ſalt-ſprings, in this iſland.

[113]Foreſts and wood are very ſcarce in this country; but it is not without trees. Moſt farms have ſmall nurſeries adjoining; but they do not grow to any ſize. Want of wood is, however, compenſated, by the great quantites of fine, large timber, that every year comes floating aſhore. Of this, they have more than they know how to diſpoſe of; but they have no ſuch thing as a fir, pine, or other trees, growing there. They have ſome ſmall birch, and ſhrubs, ſuch as juniper and black⯑berry; of which they make charcoal, for their forges. In ſeveral places, roots of trees have been found in the ground; which leads us to ſuppoſe, woods have ſtood, where, now, not a tree is ſeen.—A very extra⯑ordinary ſort of wood is alſo met with, which they call Sortebrand, or, black brand; it is hard, heavy and black, like ebony; generally found deep under ground, in long, broad, thin leaves, fit to make tables; keeps well in water, and never rots; but, no ſooner is it expoſed to the air, than it drops aſunder, into pieces. The ſmiths burn it, as charcoal.

All over the iſland are ſeen ſpacious tracts of good paſture for cattle, where they will grow exceedingly fat. Every farm has a meadow, or piece of ground, which they call, Tun. It is watched by dogs, that no cattle may come near it; being manured, in the beſt manner they can, for hay.

[114]All kinds of things may be produced here, proper for a kitchen garden, for they have a great deal of good ground; and for the two winters, ſays Horrebow, I ſtaid in Iceland, the weather, in the ſouth part of the country, was not ſeverer than at Copenhagen. They have ſome piercing, north-winds, but nothing to ob⯑ſtruct vegetation. In the year 1749, when I came to Beſſeſted, I found the king's garden in excellent order; full of all kinds of vegetables, ſuch as parſley, cellery, thyme, marjorum, cabbage, parſneps, carrots, turneps, peas, beans, and all ſorts of greens wanted in a family, and of good growth, and excellent flavour. They have, alſo, fine gooſeberry-trees; and, were other fruit-trees planted, there is no doubt but they would bear fine fruit. The greateſt difficulty is, to get the trees over, at a proper ſeaſon for planting. Ships do not leave Den⯑mark, for this place, till May; and then, all fruit-trees are in bloſſom. That the fruits of the earth are not equally fine in all parts of Iceland, is not owing to the ſoil, or air, but the ignorance of the people; it being ſaid, there are not 10 gardens in the whole country.

Now, ground that will produce garden-fruit, will produce corn; and, formerly, farmers ſowed it for their own uſe; but, none is grown now: there is a proſpect, however, of recovering this huſbandry, for, the king of Denmark, has ſent able huſbandmen to introduce it, and inſtruct the inhabitants in managing and cultivat⯑ing their land. Their ſummers are not long, but their [115] vegetation is quick; graſs will run up two feet high, in 12 or 14 days; and, as in Lapland, where it is much colder, they ſow, reap, and gather in their harveſt, in the ſpace of ſix or ſeven weeks; they would, cer⯑tainly, do the ſame here.

There is a weed, or vegetable, that grows in the ſea, which the Icelanders call ſol; and the cattle are very fond of, and thrive well on it: even the peo⯑ple eat it. Coral is alſo found in the ſea; and a coral⯑fiſhery might be here eſtabliſhed, with ſucceſs and profit.

CHAP. IV. Of Animals.

OF wild, four-footed animals, there are but two ſorts; bears and foxes. Bears are not natives of this iſland, but come annually from Greenland, on the floating ice. But the people give them a very unwel⯑come reception: no ſooner is a bear ſeen on the land, or his track noticed, but they purſue him, nor do they quit their purſuit, till they have found and deſtroyed him. They uſe ſpears, upon this occaſion; and, though a bear will turn upon his purſuer, yet, by throwing a glove in his way, they will ſoon be able to diſpatch him, [116] for he will not ſtir, till he has turned even every finger of it inſide out; and, as he is not very dextrous with his paws, this takes him ſome time, and gives his pur⯑ſuer either time to eſcape, or an opportunity of killing him; beſides, government gives a reward of 10 dol⯑lars, for every bear that is killed; and purchaſes the hide, of the killer.

Of wild foxes, there are great plenty; generally of a dark-red colour, but ſome few black, ſome white, and others grey. Theſe, the Icelanders take ſome pains to deſtroy, by gins and traps; as government, in order to root them out, gives a rix-dollar for every 10 ſkins ſold to a merchant.

Of tame animals, they have horſes, oxen, cows, ſheep, goats, and hogs. Their horſes are properly of the Norwegian breed; ſtrong, lively, briſk, and tame to admiration. They have ſome wild horſes on the moun⯑tains; very wild indeed, that will fly at the people when they offer to catch them; but, when tamed, no animals are more gentle.

The cattle, both cows and bullocks, are not very large, but very fat and fine. There are as many here without horns, as with. Cows yield a great deal of milk; ſome, will give 20 quarts a-day; but, others, not more than 10. Sheep, as well as ſaddle-horſes, are kept in ſtables, in the winter; when farmers keep their [117] cows in their yards, and feed them with hay, in pro⯑portion to their ſtock. When hay is ſcarce, they uſe their cows to eat fiſh-bones boiled ſoft, and drink the water they are boiled in, which they not only like, but thrive on. It is common to meet with oxen running wild about the mountains; which, however, are brought home in autumn, as every one knows his own, by a pe⯑culiar mark.

The cuſtomary price of a cow, is about 120 ells of Wadmel, a kind of baize, by which every article is va⯑lued and ſold. Thirty of theſe ells are valued at 4s. 6d. Engliſh; ſo, that a cow is worth 18 [...].

But, there is no breed of cattle ſo much attended to, in Iceland, as their ſheep; and, there are many peaſants, who have from two to four hundred. The ſheep differ from ours, in ſeveral particulars: they have ſtrait ears, ſtanding upright, a ſmall tail, and four or five horns. Every farmer is provided, with ſtables and folds, ſuffi⯑cient for a flock of ſheep; where they are ſheltered in the winter, and fed on hay. In ſtormy, tempeſtuous weather, when the ſheep are out, they will hide them⯑ſelves in caves and holes in the mountains; but, when they cannot find any retreat during a heavy fall of ſnow, they gather together in a heap, with their heads in the middle, and bent towards the ground; ſo that, if they are buried in the ſnow, the owner knows where to find them; at which time they will eat the wool from each [118] others backs. In a ſtorm of wind, in ſummer-time, whole flocks have been carried away, 60 or 70 Engliſh miles; and often driven into the ſea, where they have periſhed.

Good ſheep give from two to ſix quarts of milk a-day; of which, as well as cow's milk, butter and cheeſe is made. But, the principal profit they derive from their ſheep, is wool. They do not ſheer it, as we do; but, about the end of May, when it gets looſe, ſtrip it off, at once, like a ſkin. The outer wool is ſomething like camel's hair, but more ſhaggy, deſigned, by Nature, to enable them to ſup⯑port the rigours of the winter. Under this wool, is a freſh coat, of finer. The price of ſix ewes, from two to four years old, is about 18s. Engliſh. The ſhepherds that guard them are ſo expert, that, at one view, in a flock of two or three hundred, they can tell whether any are miſſing, or whether any ſtrange ſheep are got in among them. As the rams are ſuffered to run about among the ewes; to prevent unſeaſonable leaping, they tie a cloth under their bellies, which is taken off towards Chriſtmas.

As goats do not thrive well where there is little or no wood, they are not very general in this iſland; the few there are, yield a great ſtore of milk.

[119]The old annals of this country prove, that it was formerly ſtocked with a great number of hogs; but there is no great quantity now.

Dogs and cats are in plenty, eſpecially the former; ſcarce a family being without two, or three, a houſe-dog, and others, to attend their ſheep.

Of birds of prey, they have eagles, falcons, hawks, and ravens. Owls and kites, crows and magpies, there are none. The Iceland falcons are the beſt for ſport: the king of Denmark ſends, every year, a falconer, with two attendants, to buy them up.

Of wild fowl, they have woodcocks, ſnipes, ouzels, and partridges, in abundance; but no quails: of com⯑mon fowls, chickens, ducks, pidgeons, &c. as in other countries. Here is alſo plenty of wild ducks; and a profuſion of coaſt-birds, that will ſtray out to ſea, in large flights, to the diſtance of 30 or 40 leagues. It is the large quantity of fiſh theſe ſeas are ſtocked with, that occaſions ſuch flocks of birds to harbour here. There are, alſo, wild geeſe, and ſwans.

The ſwan is a conſtant inhabitant of this iſland: great numbers of them frequent the freſh rivers, up the country, and breed there, and the natives make great profit of their down and feathers; ſo do they of the eider-down, of which we made ſome mention in our [120] account of Greenland. The eider-ducks generally build their neſts in little iſlands, made on purpoſe to invite them, where they will ſwarm, if not diſturbed; nay, they will become ſo tame, as to ſuffer people to come about them and take away their eggs, whilſt they are ſitting. When theſe birds build their neſt, they pluck the fine down from their breaſts, to line them. When their eggs and down are removed, they go to work again, new-line their neſts, and lay more; and, when the neſts are robbed a ſecond time, and the duck has no more down, the drake ſupplies it. This is not removed, till the young ones are hatched, and flown. One female, during the whole time of laying, will give half a pound of down. There are generally exported, every year, on the company's account, 1500 or 2000 pounds of down, excluſive of what is privately exported. In the year 1750, the Iceland company ſold as much, in quantity, as came to £.842 ſterling. Of this bird, the female is the ſize of a common Engliſh duck; the drake, the ſize of a gooſe. As ſoon as their young are hatched, they run out after the duck; and, when ſhe gets to the water-edge, ſhe takes them on her back, and ſwims away with them; and, when at ſome diſtance from the ſhore, ſhe dives, and leaves the young ones ſwimming, to ſhift for themſelves, and ſwim after her.

Too much cannot be ſaid of the great bleſſing God has beſtowed on this iſland, in the immenſe mul⯑titudes [121] of fiſh which ſwarm the coaſts, from the north⯑ern parts of Iceland, in their paſſage to the ſouthern. In ſome places, there is good cod-fiſhing all the year round.

Herrings come from the moſt northern parts, where they breed, and ſend forth vaſt colonies to all Europe, at certain ſeaſons. In paſſing by Iceland, they are chaſed by the whales, and large fiſh, into the bays and creeks, in ſuch multitudes, that a boat can hardly be rowed among them; and they may be taken up by pails full. But the Icelanders do not apply themſelves to the her⯑ring-fiſhery, having neither materials for it, nor a ſufficient quantity of ſalt. Small herrings are food for cod-fiſh; and the birds, alſo, ſnap them up. The whale, alſo, ſwallows them in heaps. Once, in par⯑ticular, a whale, ſays Horrebow, purſuing his prey too greedily, ran a-ground; and, the tide ſetting out, left him helpleſs on the ſhore. The inhabitants ſoon gave him his quietus; and found, in his belly, upwards of 600 fine live cod, a great quantity of herrings, and ſome birds.

In proper fiſhing-places, a variety of other fiſh is caught, beſides cod; namely, trout, ſoles, flounders, haddock, whiting, turbot, ſkate, ſalmon, and ſalmon-trouts. The inhabitants dry cod-fiſh all the ſummer; and, the Daniſh merchants, in Iceland, pickle many hundred caſks of cod annually, and export it to Copenhagen.

[122]They catch, alſo, in the Iceland ſeas, ſeals and whales, of all ſorts.

As to vermin, no country on the globe is leſs trou⯑bled with it: rats and mice, indeed, they have in plenty; ſpiders there are a few; but no beetles, horſe⯑flies, nor ſnakes of any kind. The only troubleſome things, are gnats; travellers, however, by hanging gauze over their faces, keep them off.

CHAP. V. Of the People.

THOUGH there is ſcarce any country ſo little fa⯑voured by Nature, and where ſhe appears through⯑out in ſo dreadful a form, yet Iceland contains about 60,000 people; who cannot properly be called un⯑happy, though they are unacquainted with ſome of the comforts of life.

The Icelanders are middle-ſized, and well-made, though not very ſtrong; and the women are, in general, ill-featured, but have white, ſound teeth. Whilſt children, they are kept very tender; but, when the lads are big, and ſtrong enough to row a boat, and to go a-fiſh⯑ing, they muſt then enter upon a ſcene of toil and labour. An Icelander's ſtrength continues only from the age of 20 to 50; at which time, it begins to decay. The [123] many hardſhips they endure, when fiſhing, bring on conſumptions and aſthmas, which are reigning diſorders here. They make nothing of jumping into the ſea, to ſave their boats from running a-ground, or receiving damage againſt the rocks; and, frequently, keep on their wet cloaths, even in froſt and ſnow. It is very rare to ſee any one reach the age of 100, or even 80. The women are not uſed to any heavy exerciſe, or hard labour; for, excepting the hay-harveſt, their other work is chiefly done while ſitting; ſuch as cleaning and combing of wool, ſpinning, knitting, weaving, &c. of courſe, they are delicate, tender, and chilly. They have frequently hard labours, and many die in child⯑birth. In their beſt times, they generally keep their beds, unmoved, eight days; and many ſuffer, their whole lives, through the ignorance of their midwives.

Cholics, conſumptions, and hypochondriac diſorders, are very epidemical among them, and would employ a number of phyſicians, if the poor could afford to pay them; but, the leproſy is the moſt prevailing diſeaſe, which continues with them, till worn out with hard labour and age. When the Icelanders are taken ill, they reſign themſelves to God and nature; few, among them, having any medicines, or knowledge how to ap⯑ply them. There is, however, an apothecary's ſhop eſtabliſhed in the iſland, and four hoſpitals for the poor and leprous, attended by ſkilful phyſicians and aſſiſtants.

[124]When children are put to the breaſt, they are ſuf⯑fered to ſuck as long, as uſual, in other countries; but, for the greater part, they are brought up by hand. They give them the beſt milk, not ſkimmed; and never, when turned into whey. Indeed, they are ſo carefully and tenderly nurſed, that they are all ſtrait and well-limbed; ſcarce a cripple to be ſeen among them.

There are no ſchools, nor indeed can there well be any, the houſes being ſcattered at ſuch a diſtance from one another; but parents, and ſuch of the family as are qualified, inſtruct young children in reading the ar⯑ticles of their religion; and the clergy, in viſiting their pariſhioners, examine, and prepare them for con⯑firmation. They are kept always at home, whilſt young; and ſee no other examples than their parents ſet them, which are not vicious.

The Icelanders are of a good, honeſt diſpoſition; but they are, ſays Von Troil, at the ſame time, ſo ſerious and ſullen, that I ſcarcely remember to have ſeen any one of them laugh. The annals of the country ſhew that, in ancient times, they were a warlike people, having, in a civil war, made great ſlaughter among them⯑ſelves: however, as at preſent, this country cannot ſpare many of its inhabitants; and as, fortunately for them, it is too remote for officers to go recruiting, few of them have been trained up in a military line. In [125] the ſea-ſervice, ſome of them have been promoted to the command of Dutch veſſels.

Vices are, indeed, much leſs common among them than in other parts, where riches and luxury have cor⯑rupted the morals of the people. Theft is ſeldom heard of; nor are they inclined to incontinence.

Though their poverty renders them incapable of following, in many reſpects, the hoſpitality of their an⯑ceſtors; yet they do it, where they can. They chear⯑give away the little they have to ſpare; and expreſs the utmoſt ſatiſfaction, if you are pleaſed with their gift. In general, they are not chearful in converſation, but ſimple and credulous; and have no objection to a bottle of ſtrong liquor, if they can get it.

The inhabitants who live near the ſea, employ them⯑ſelves, the year round, chiefly in fiſhing. Every maſter of a family, furniſhes his ſervant with a particular dreſs, [128] made of leather, rubbed over with oil; the breeches and ſtockings are of one piece, and come up pretty high above the hips, and are laced on very tight; a wide jacket, faſtened round the neck, and middle of the waiſt, with water-ſhoes of thick leather, completes it: this, however, is never worn, but at ſea.

Their boats are commonly ſmall, holding from one man to four; with theſe they fiſh near the coaſt: but they have ſome that will hold 12 or 16 men, and with theſe they venture ſix or eight miles out at ſea. As ſoon as their boat is ſhoved off from ſhore, they take off their hats and caps, pray for good ſucceſs, and recommend themſelves, by a prayer and hymn, to the Divine protection. On their return, they divide the fiſh they have caught, equally among them; reſerv⯑ing one ſhare for the owner of the boat, though perhaps not preſent.

Men, women and children, when they have nothing elſe to do, eſpecially in winter, work at the cleaning, twining, and ſpinning of wool. Some Daniſh weavers have lately come among them; and they begin now to improve conſiderably in the art of weaving. Having had no fulling-mills, it muſt be ſuppoſed, that they have had much trouble in fulling and milling all the woollen goods made on the iſland, when it is known, that they have uſed no other means, than a caſk or barrel, with both ends out, and, when the articles to be milled, are [129] put in, two men ſit down oppoſite to each other with their feet in the caſk, and thus work the ſtuff about. Gloves and mittens they put on when going to ſea, and, dipping them in ſea-water, mill them on their hands as they row. To full breeches and ſtockings, they put them on likewiſe, and rock themſelves about with them, by which means they have contracted a habit of perpetual rocking and moving their limbs about, when they have no ſuch work to do. Women waſh their things generally with urine, uſing neither ſoap nor lye. In the buſineſs of dying, they extract verdegreaſe with urine from copper veſſels with which they dye their yarn, and weave pretty ſtriped woollen ſtuffs of various colours. They are alſo not without ingenuity; as a proof of this, we need only mention that a peaſant con⯑trived, ſome years ago, a ſledge in the form of a ſhip with ſails, large enough to contain four or five perſons, that would ſail in the winter-time on the ſnow in an even country.

The many ingenious Icelanders ſo eminent in the li⯑terary world, is a ſtrong inſtance of their good natural parts. Every year, ſome of their ſelect youths are ſent to the univerſity of Copenhagen, where they diſcover ſuch a ſpirit of emulation, as dull perſons are ſeldom obſerved to have. And the common people have keen cunning heads, and a great deal of mother wit. They have, like moſt other nations, a ſtrong propenſity to their native place, ſome however eſtabliſh them⯑ſelves [130] at Copenhagen, and in other foreign countries, and ſettle there as profeſſors, rectors, ſea-faring people, goldſmiths, and a variety of handicraft occupations. At the biſhop's ſeat at Hoolum, there was an Icelander, in 1750, that underſtood the art of printing to perfec⯑tion, having learned it at Copenhagen. And with re⯑ſpect to induſtry, the Icelanders are as diligent in their ſeveral occupations as moſt people, never neglecting or omitting any thing that ought to be done. Though the common people are rather too much wedded to their old cuſtoms, they are fond of ſeeing curioſities and improving themſelves; are very ready to imitate, very handy at making any thing, and very expert at turning things to advantage.

It is not at Copenhagen alone, that they are thus found ingenious, the people in the country are conſpi⯑cuous for like abilities. Many men in Iceland, have, without the inſtructions of a maſter, taught themſelves to work in ſilver and braſs. There are alſo ingenious carpenters, joiners, and ſmiths. They have no time-pieces among them except hour-glaſſes; but they cal⯑culate time pretty exactly by the ſun or ſtars when vi⯑ſible, or by the tide which is always regular. Of courſe, they never count time by the clock as one, two, three, four o'clock, but have particular names in their own language for every hour and half hour in the day, [131] as for example, noon, mid-night, mid-evening, broad-day, &c.

The king's ſeat at Beſſeſted, the biſhop's palaces, the lawyers houſes, thoſe of the civil magiſtrates, and thoſe of ſome of the clergy are built with ſtone or brick, like the houſes of Denmark; but the farm-houſes and huts of the Icelanders, are built of lava, and clay, thatched with turf, and ſo ſmall that you have ſcarce room to turn in them. They have no floors but the ground one, and their windows inſtead of glaſs are compoſed of thin membranes ſtretched on frames which admit of light. They have no chimneys, never making a fire but to dreſs their food, in which caſe they burn turf on the ground. As there are no accommodation houſes for travellers, the magiſtrates in their circuits are obliged to take up their lodgings in the churches.

Their houſhold furniture conſiſts of tables, ſtools, benches, cheſts, and other neceſſary utenſils; but, the houſes of thoſe of better rank are built with drift-wood, and covered with boards, wainſcoted within, and are well furniſhed with looking-glaſſes, and every thing requiſite in a genteel way.

[132]The walls of their houſes are about three yards high, and the entrance ſomething lower, and about ſix feet wide. Below is the plan of one of them.

a. Is the door or entrance of the long paſſage, bbb. lighted by holes in the roof, over which a ſkin ſtretch⯑ed on a hoop is laid.

c. Is a common room 24 or 28 feet long, and 12 or 16 broad, where the women ſit and dreſs their wool, and do other work for the family, and where the maſter and miſtreſs generally ſleep. The walls of this room are generally wainſcoted, it is floored and ceiled, and ſome of them have ſmall glaſs windows, but no fire-place; on each ſide of the paſſage are two rooms, with doors opening into the paſſage; of which,

• d. Is the kitchen.
• e. The eating-room.
• f. The dairy. And
• g. The ſervants ſleeping-room.

[133]Neither of theſe four rooms is either lined or ceiled; the ſmoke of the kitchen fire-place aſcends through a hole in the roof. Without they have a booth or ſhed, to ſtow their proviſions, &c. and hard by, a ſtable for their cattle. Farm-houſes have alſo a ſmith's ſhop ad⯑joining; for they are too far from a neighbour, to get their ſmith's work done any where but at home. Farm-houſes have generally a few huts about them for work⯑men, but they all belong to the farm. The membrane of which their windows are made, is the chorion and amnios of ſheep, or the membranes which ſurround the womb of the ewe.

Their food principally conſiſts of dried fiſh, ſour but⯑ter, which they conſider as a dainty, milk mixed with water and whey, and a little meat. As no huſbandry is followed in Iceland, bread muſt be ſcarce; the major part of what is conſumed, is purchaſed by the better kind of people, and imported from Denmark. There is ſcarely any peaſant that eats it three or four months in the year. As a ſubſtitute for bread, they eat dried fiſh, well beaten (but not boiled,) and ſpread with but⯑ter. They however convert ſometimes wild-corn that grows in ſome places, into flour and bread, and make a kind of flour alſo of rock-graſs.

[134]To give the reader ſome idea of their cookery, we will tell him, they boil their fiſh in ſea-water, eat their meat without ſalt, and make broth by boiling their meat in four whey of a year old. Their kitchen uten⯑ſils they have from Copenhagen, and they are in ge⯑neral neat, and cleanly in their kitchens. The Ice⯑landers in common eat two meals a day; morning and evening. They uſually eat curds mixed with new milk, and ſometimes with juniper berries. And at dinner, they eat dried fiſh, with plenty of ſour butter, or freſh fiſh, and, if they can get it, bread and cheeſe.

Their common drink is water, but they occaſionally drink milk, butter-milk, or ſour whey, and ſuch as can afford it import beer and wine.

In ſo mountainous and rocky a country, where there is no agriculture and but little commerce, we cannot expect good roads; they neither make uſe of carts nor ſledges; but, when they are obliged to travel to ſea⯑ports in order to exchange their fiſh, &c. for other commodities, they take 20, 30 or a greater number of horſes with them, each of which will carry from 300 to 400 lb. weight. The conductor of this cavalcade rides on before, and his dog by a certain word, runs after the ſtraggling horſes and keeps them together. They never take any food with them for the horſes, there being plenty of paſture all the way.

[135]The length of their journeys is not reckoned by miles or leagues, but by Thingmanna-leid, that is, as far as a man can go in one day, which is about four Icelandic miles, or 21 Engliſh.

The number of inhabitants is by no means propor⯑tionable to the extent of the country. It was much more populous formerly, but a peſtilential diſeaſe called the Sorte död, or black death, that raged from 1402 to 1404, almoſt ſwept away every ſoul from the iſland; many places have been entirely depopulated by famine, and in the years 1707 and 1708, the ſmall-pox deſtroyed 16,000 perſons. This black death, in the year 1402, ſcarce left a perſon to relate the dreadful calamity, it has accordingly been omitted in the annals of Iceland; in which nothing elſe remarkable is omitted. The few who eſcaped that great devaſtation ſaved themſelves by taking refuge in the mountains, and by tradition re⯑late, that the low and flat country was covered with a thick fog during the time of this plague. This diſeaſe extended itſelf to Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, and carried off ſo many thouſands in thoſe countries, that they could not ſpare people for this colony: The in⯑habitants however have now encreaſed to about 60,000; the greateſt number of whom live near the ſea, along the coaſt. There are 22 harbours in this iſland, at each of which is a trading town or factory; but, theſe tra⯑ding towns conſiſt only of three or four dwelling houſ⯑es [136] for the merchants of the Iceland company, with a ſhop, a warehouſe and a kitchen.

Marriages here, as in other countries, are often con⯑tracted for the ſake of intereſt, and as conſent is re⯑quired in Iceland, with as much formality as in other nations, it is not unuſual for a father, or the neareſt re⯑lation to refuſe conſent, on very trifling accounts. When a young man has fixed his choice, the miniſter cuſtomarily goes and aſks the bride in marriage of her parents and guardians; which if complied with, not many ceremonies are afterwards uſed; nor, as their houſes are ſmall, have they many gueſts. The bride and bridegroom are attended to church by their neareſt relations, and there joined in wedlock by the miniſter, generally on a ſunday, before he goes into the pulpit. When ſervice is ended, they have an entertainment at the bride's houſe, according to their circumſtances, but without muſic or dancing; and, when the feaſt is over, they all retire to their reſpective habitations.

They have indeed no idea of dancing; the mer⯑chants ſometimes at the factories will, for their diver⯑ſion, get a fiddle and ſet them to dancing, but this is merely hopping and jumping about. When they have been treated and made merry, they will ſing a variety of heroic ſongs, a man and woman taking one another by the hand, and by turns ſinging long ſtanzas; but [137] having no ſkill in harmony, they roar out in a very harſh and uncouth manner.

I obſerved, ſays Von Troil, two kinds of muſical inſtruments among them, one called Laanſpil with ſix braſs ſtrings, the other fidla, with two horſehair ſtrings, both played on by a bow: I heard alſo of another in⯑ſtrument, called Symphon, but never could get a ſight of it.

Among their amuſements they are very fond of, and very expert, at the game of cheſs; and play ſometimes at cards, but never for money. When they meet to⯑gether, their chief amuſement conſiſts in reading their hiſtory; the maſter of the houſe begins, and when he is tired, the reſt in their turns go on. Some know theſe ſtories by heart; others have them in print, and others in writing, and it is thus they are ſo converſant in their own hiſtory as they are, and keep up traditional accounts.

CHAP. VI. Of their Trade.

THE trade of this iſland has been ſubject to many revolutions, till the year 1400. The people of Norway, were almoſt the only perſons who ſailed to Iceland and traded in fiſh. The Engliſh had this trade afterwards till the reformation, wh [...]n it fell into the hands of the Germans, and was very profitable to the Hamburghers. But Chriſtian IV. king of Denmark, who had the trade of his country much at heart, turned his attention likewiſe towards Iceland. He prohibited the Hans-towns from trading there in 1602, and beſtow⯑ed it on Copenhagen, and ſome other towns of Den⯑mark.

The Iceland Company at Copenhagen was not how⯑ever eſtabliſhed till 1620; it continued till 1662, and was then ſuppreſſed. The trade of every harbour was afterwards diſpoſed of to the beſt bidder, once in ſix years. However, in 1734, a new company was char⯑tered, for which they pay 6000 rix-dollars annually to the crown of Denmark. They ſend near thirty ſhips there every year, loaded with corn, bread, wine, brandy, ſalt, tobacco, fiſhing-lines, coarſe-linen, timber, and [139] what perſons in good circumſtances have occaſion for in their families; taking back in return fiſh, fleſh, but⯑ter, blubber, ſkins, ſalted lamb's-fleſh, tallow, wool, coarſe and fine baize, foxes-ſkins, eider-down, feathers, wadmel jackets, ſtockings and gloves.

It is difficult to determine, whether the Company profits much by this trade; it is certain, that the Ice⯑landers loſe by it, for the Dutch ſmuggle in there much better goods than the Company, and ſmuggle out again a conſiderable quantity of fiſh.

There is a market kept annually at Hraundals-retter, to which thoſe who live up the country reſort, and bar⯑ter their butter, cloth and ſheep, for fiſh, blubber, and the like. And at Reikavik, there is a woollen manu⯑factory, where twenty or thirty workmen are employed.

The merchants are very ſuſpicious of the Icelanders, and never purchaſe any of their goods, without exa⯑mining them all ſeparately. Daniſh money is current in the country, but there is very little of it. Their accounts are generally kept according to yards of wad⯑mel and fiſhes. Wadmel we have already mentioned; of fiſhes, each fiſh weighing two pounds, are valued at a rix-dollar in ſpecie, that is, about 3s. 6d. Engliſh.

CHAP. VII. Of their Literature.

IT would be forming a very wrong judgment of Ice⯑land, to conceive it abſorbed in ignorance and obſcurity. I can affirm, ſays Von Troil, that I have found more knowledge among the lower claſs of peo⯑ple there, than is to be met with in moſt other places; there are few peaſants, who, beſides being well in⯑ſtructed in the principles of religion, are not alſo ac⯑quainted with the hiſtory of their own country, which proceeds from their reading, by way of amuſement, their traditional accounts; nor, is it uncommon to find perſons among them, who can repeat the poems of Kolbein Grimſon, Sigurd Giſle, and Gudmund Berg⯑thors, by heart, all of whom were poets in later times. The clergy ſpeak latin well and fluently, and I have found better libraries in many parts of Iceland, than could have been expected.

Among the Icelanders who have acquired moſt fame in the literary world are, Dr. Finnur Jonſon, biſhop of Skallholt, who, beſides many learned writings on the antiquities of Iceland, has lately preſented the public with an eccleſiaſtical hiſtory, in three quarto volumes, [141] replete with information, criticiſm and erudition; he was made biſhop of that dioceſe in 1754, and was alive in 1772. Halfdan Ejnarſon, rector of the ſchool of Hoolum, is another Icelander, who has written Hiſ⯑toria literaria, Iſlandiae; and there are many others. Arnas Mägnaus, and Torfoeus, both natives of this iſland, have particularly diſtinguiſhed themſelves for literature, in this and the laſt century.

Four or five centuries ago, the Icelanders were cele⯑brated for their poetry and knowledge in hiſtory. I could name, ſays Von Troil, many of their poets, who celebrated the war-like deeds of the northern kings, in ſongs, and to the famous Snorre Sturleſon, author of the Edda, is even the Swediſh nation indebted, for the firſt illuſtration of their hiſtory. For this reaſon, ſo high a value has been ſet on the ancient Icelandic records and writings, that they have almoſt all been drawn out of the country; Sir Joſeph Banks brought away in 1772, upwards of 160 manuſcripts, and has preſented them to the Britiſh muſeum.

That there is a printing-office in Iceland, cannot be unknown, as we are acquainted with the ſcarce editions of Olof Tryggwaſſons, Landnama, Greenland and Chriſtendom traditions, printed at Skallholt. They have had a printing-preſs there ſince the year 1530, and are well acquainted with the old Runic characters.

[142]At a time, when no great knowledge of the latin language could be expected, even in Sweden, an Ice⯑lander was however met with of ſufficient capacity and learning, to inſtruct youth to read and underſtand the latin poets; and, it may be affirmed by their ancient chronicles, that Iceland, from the introduction of the chriſtian religion there, till the year 1264, when it be⯑came ſubject to the crown of Norway, was one of the few countries in Europe, and the only one in the north, where the Sciences were cultivated and held in eſteem. And their ancient annals are the only remaining monu⯑ments of the old northern hiſtory, and are of ſuch au⯑thority, that we cannot deny the ſame credit we ſo im⯑plicitly give to the writings of Tacitus and Livy.

Such great pains are now taken to appoint men of known abilities, as teachers to the public ſchools in Iceland; that few of the clergy ſtudy any where elſe; though in the year 1773, there were fifty-four ſtudents from Iceland, in the univerſity of Copenhagen.

The language is the ſame as that formerly ſpoken in Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, and has preſerved it⯑ſelf ſo pure, that any Icelander underſtands the ancient traditional hiſtories of thoſe countries, better than the natives do themſelves. Near the coaſts ſome Daniſh is ſpoken, nor is it uncommon for a peaſant to make uſe of latin phraſes of ſalutation. The following is [143] the Lord's Prayer, according to the Iceland language in 1746.

There is an Icelandic Grammar, printed in 1651, and ſeveral Icelandic Dictionaries. The Edda, which has hitherto been conſidered as the mythology of the ancients, but now known to be an introduction to Icelandic poetry, is one of the moſt celebrated remains of antiquity, and judged to have been written by Snorre Sturleſon, who was beheaded in Iceland in 1241. The following lines from this poem, will give the reader an idea of their poetry.

The natural diſpoſition of theſe words is; Eg heingi hamri kringdan linna gynnung a hang riupu bruar tangar [144] a Grymnis, ſylgs galga; in Engliſh this, ‘I hang the round beaten gaping ſnake on the end of the bridge of the mountain bird, at the gallows of Odin's ſhield.’ By "Gallows of Odin's ſhield," is meant the arm, on which the ſhield is worn. By the ripa is underſtood a falcon, (one genus being put for another.) The bridge of the falcon is the hand, on which the falconer places him; and, it's end or tong, (tongue) the finger. "The gaping round beaten ſnake," means a ring, and conſequently this long ſtory means no more than, "I put a ring on my finger."

From the above it may eaſily be imagined, that there is no language that allows a poet ſo much liberty as the Icelandic, nor any ſo rich in poetical expreſſions; but, the difficulty of underſtanding it, has been the cauſe of the contempt it lies under.

Before we quit this ſubject, we will take occaſion to ſay ſomething of the few monuments of antiquity re⯑maining on this iſland. The only pieces of antiquity here to be found, (for their are no ancient manuſcripts, Icelandic annals or hiſtorical traditions, now to be met with,) are ſome ruins of an old caſtle near Videdal; ſome of a leſſer one at Laugernas, and ſome remains of heathen temples and burying-places in different parts, with an ancient place of execution at Hegranas. There are no other monuments remaining of Sturleſon, than his writings, except a mount overgrown with graſs, at [145] Reikholt, ſaid to have been raiſed from the ruins of his houſe; the burying place of his family, and at a little diſtance from them, one of the fineſt baths in the whole iſland. This bath, which is large enough to contain fiſty perſons, is encloſed with a wall of baſalt, and hath incruſtations, a ſmooth level bottom, and is ſurrounded with benches. In Sturleſon's time, a long covered paſſage led from thence to the dwelling houſe. The ſpring is at forty paces diſtance, which ſupplies the bath, and the water is conveyed through a conduit, at the end of which, is a hole, ſhut with a ſpigot and fawcet, that lets in as much hot water as you pleaſe, which can be eaſily cooled, by water from an adjoining brook.

CHAP. VIII. Of their Religion, &c.

WHEN the Roman catholic religion took place throughout Europe, it was likewiſe the eſtabliſhed religion of this iſland, and was not extirpated without ſome effuſion of blood. Since the reformation, the Lutheran religion is the only one [146] tolerated here, though the people are not without their ſuperſtitions.

The Icelanders firſt received their own biſhops, in the year 1057, at Skallholt, and in 1107, at Hoolum, They were originally under the juriſdiction of the arch⯑biſhop of Bremen and Hamburgh, but in the year, 1103 or 4, became ſubordinate to Azeus, firſt archbiſhop of Lund in Scania, and in 1152, to the biſhop of Dron⯑theim. The Lutheran religion was introduced and there eſtabliſhed in 1551.

Iceland is divided into 189 pariſhes, of which, 127 belong to the ſee of Skallholt, which extends over the eaſt, ſouth and weſt quarters, and 62 to that of Hoo⯑lum, which extends over the north quarter. Each bi⯑ſhoprick has a latin ſchool, with a rector and other aſ⯑ſiſtants under him, who teach theology, and other bran⯑ches of literature, and fit out thoſe deſigned for the mi⯑niſtry. Some, however, ſtudy at Copenhagen, and generally get the beſt livings, and more lucrative civil employments, but all the miniſters are Icelanders or natives. In the time of the reformation, a great part of the church revenues were ſecularized, and now be⯑long to the king. The income of each biſhoprick may amount to 2000 rix-dollars, out of which the bi⯑ſhop muſt keep the rector and corrector, the miniſter of the cathedral church, who is the biſhop's curate, and a certain number of ſcholars, who have lodging, board, [147] and clothes allowed them; and, he muſt keep the ca⯑thedral and palace in repair; ſo that the ballance, after theſe deductions, reverting to the biſhop, cannot exceed 1200 rix-dollars per year. Some livings are tolerably good, ſome middling, and ſome very poor; the beſt do no exceed 200 rix-dollars a year. The revenues of many of the poor livings are ſo ſmall, that their mi⯑niſters are, for ſupport, obliged to have recourſe to manual labour, or go a fiſhing like the common peo⯑ple; and, yet their congregations are not neglected, they follow the example of the Apoſtle Paul, who though he earned his bread by the labour of his hands, was a great and edifying preacher.

The conduct of the clergy is very narrowly inſpected into, as well as that of the people in general, in regard to religious matters, and the leaſt fault is not ſuffered to go unpuniſhed. If a miniſter, on a ſunday, ſets out only on a ſhort journey, he is cited to appear before a court, and the matter is there enquired into. For the crime of drunkenneſs, or any other indecency, they loſe their preferment, and are deprived from the miniſtry. Their attention in religious concerns ope⯑rate powerfully on the people. An Icelander never paſſes a river, or any other dangerous place, without previouſly taking off his hat and imploring the Divine protection, and he is always thankful to God when he has paſſed the danger.

[148]Moſt of the churches have lands and revenues an⯑nexed to them, for the people there pay no tythes. They are built in the ſame manner as their houſes, though ſomewhat larger, and a little higher, the inſide wainſcoted, and the roof covered with turf. They are built proportionable to the congregations; for the houſes and farms being ſcattered about, there are ſome⯑times only ſeven, eight, or ten farms in a pariſh, though ſome contain from ten to thirty; and, as all the pa⯑riſhioners cannot attend ſervice at one time, the con⯑gregations muſt in many pariſhes be ſmall. The churches, as well as the houſes, are ſo low, that you may touch the roof with your hand. The cathedral of Hoolum, is built of frame-work, 98 feet long, 30 wide, and about 40 high. It ſtands a little higher than the ground, being built in a hollow, and has a wooden ſpire. The frame-work of the biſhop's palace, at Hoolum, is of oak and walled between, and the roof covered with boards. It was formed at Copenhagen, put up and walled in 1576, and is now ſtanding. The cathedral of Skallholt is much the ſame as that of Hoolum, but has a bell in the ſpire. In moſt of the churches are painted altar-pieces, imported from Co⯑penhagen. Every church has a font handſomely railed, and moſt have pews, at leaſt for the women, and ſome a metal ſconce, ſhips, or ſome other ornament hanging up. As to the ornaments, veſſels and utenſils, they are as neat and as handſome as in our country churches,

CHAP. IX. Of their Government.

ICELAND firſt began to be cultivated in the 9th century, by a colony of Norwegians, among which were many Swedes. They continued free in this corner of the world for a long time, but were obliged at laſt to ſubmit to the kings of Norway, and afterwards became ſubject with Norway, to the kings of Denmark. They were at firſt governed by an ad⯑miral, ſent there annually; but that mode has been changed many years, a deputy-governor being now appointed, who reſides wholly in the country, and at the town of Beſſeſted, one of the royal domains where Snorre Sturleſton formerly dwelt. The governor is ge⯑nerally a nobleman of rank in Denmark, and reſides chiefly at Copenhagen. The ſalary of the deputy or lieutenant-governor, is 1500 rix-dollars per annum. He has under him a bailiff or mayor, whoſe ſalary is 400 rix-dollars, two lagmen or judges, a ſheriff, at 400 rix-dollars a year, and 21 ſyſſelmen, who act as juſtices of the peace, and receivers of the land-tax, at a ſalary of 200 rix-dollars each.

[150]The Norwegians on their firſt arrival in Iceland, made their own laws, but theſe proving inſufficient, when the the number of people encreaſed, a freſh code was eſtabliſhed in 587, and again another code in 1280; but, at preſent moſt matters are decided after the Da⯑niſh law, and ſome more recent regulations.

All cauſes are firſt heard and determined at the Ha⯑rads-thing, or county court, but an appeal lies to the Al-thing, or common court of juſtice held annually, on the 8th of July; but the final appeal is to the ſupreme court of judicature, at Copenhagen. There is more work for lawyers here, in caſes relative to freehold and treſpaſſes, than one would imagine, the people ſuing each other on the leaſt incroachment on their lands or property. So obſtinate are they, that though they have grounds of ſome miles extent, lying between them, one will not permit the other to enjoy the leaſt ſpot, without making ſome return for it, notwithſtand⯑ing he may have no uſe for it himſelf. Nay, actions have been brought by the more opulent, and carried into the upper courts, where the matter in conteſt has not exceeded the value of a dollar. In ſpiritual caſes, the dean has a court, which conſiſts of himſelf and two aſſeſſors, with an appeal to the conſiſtorial court, where the deputy-governor preſides, and the biſhops, deans, and clergy are aſſeſſors. From this court there is alſo an appeal to the ſuperior court at Copenhagen.

[151]In criminal caſes, where the puniſhment is death, the men are either beheaded with an ax or hanged. The women are thruſt into a ſack and drowned. Each ſyſſelman keeps a perſon at his own expence to perform this office.

The king's revenues from this iſland are but ſmall, not exceeding 30,000 crowns a year. They ariſe chiefly from the ſecularized abbey lands and other royal domains, farmed out at about 8000 rix-dollars a year, and from the harbours farmed out to the Iceland com⯑pany, at 20,000 rix-dollars. In ſome diſtricts he has one third of the tythes of the fiſh, and every ſubject worth more than twenty dollars, pays him 40 fiſh, or about 3s. Engliſh: and the people act very conſcien⯑tiouſly in this reſpect, ſcorning nothing ſo much, as to rob the king of his revenue.

CHAP. I. Of the Country in general, and it's Productions.

LAPLAND is divided into three parts, one of which belongs to the crown of Denmark, one to that of Sweden, and one to the empire of Ruſſia; that belonging to the Swedes, is by far the moſt valu⯑able, and comprehends all the country, from the gulph of Bothnia, to the mountains that ſeparate Norway [153] from Sweden. Swediſh Lapland then is the object of authors in deſcribing this country, which is about 100 German miles in length, and 90 in breadth, and lies between 64 and 71 degrees of north latitude; further north than Iceland, or any part of Greenland we have treated of. In depicting Swediſh Lapland, we deſcribe the other two, though we ſhall ſpeak occaſionally of thoſe belonging to Denmark and to Ruſſia.

The Laplanders are ſuppoſed to have been deſcended from Finlanders, driven out of their own country, and were called Lappes, which ſignifies exiles. To have an idea of the country, the reader muſt conceive, a vaſt maſs of mountains crowded together, and riſing by de⯑grees to ſuch a prodigious height, as to be always co⯑vered with ſnow, even in the ſummer-time. In the winter-time, the moſt rapid rivers are covered with ice, four or five feet thick; nay, the largeſt lakes and the ſea itſelf is frozen, ſufficient to bear any weight; but, what is moſt aſtoniſhing, and ſeems not very pro⯑bable is, that the heat of the ſummer is as intenſe, as is the cold in the winter; the only relief they have, are the vapours that riſe from the neighbouring ſeas, and from the ſnow which remains both ſummer and winter, in the receſſes of the rocks and hollows between mountains, which all that ſeaſon are extremely ſubject to lightning and thunders. Spring and autumn are ſeaſons unknown among the Laplanders, there being but an interval of a very few days, between the cold of winter and the heat of ſummer, it appearing almoſt a [154] miracle to ſuch as are unacquainted with theſe parts, to ſee the fields cloathed with green herbs and graſs, which a week before were enveloped in ſnow. Nature ſeems ſo ſenſible of the ſhortneſs of the ſummer here, that ſhe brings things to perfection, with a ſpeed incredible, but to thoſe, who have ſeen it. The ſoil is neither fer⯑tile nor barren, but between both, though it is full of flints and ſmall rocks, and of courſe very rough and uneven. Indeed there is but little ground fit for til⯑lage; for beſides the rivers and lakes, of which there are a great many; duſky foreſts and unhealthy mo⯑raſſes cover great part of the flat country. In the more ſouthern parts of Lapland, the ground is much better calculated for herbage, than the northern parts. In the neighbourhood of Bothnia, they have a variety of vegetables in their gardens, ſuch as cole-worts, tur⯑nips, parſneps, radiſhes, &c. but further north, little of this is to be ſeen; for beſides the rocky hills and mountains, there are vaſt tracts of barren ſand, which are raiſed frequently by high winds, and cover the ad⯑jacent country, like ſnow. Theſe ſands are ſometimes ſo dangerous to travellers, from their depth, that men and beaſts have miſſed their way and been buried in them. On the ſide of Norway, the ſands are ſome⯑times mountain-high. Nature has divided this part of the Swediſh territories from Norway, by a vaſt ridge of mountains, a hundred leagues in length, as by a wall; and, the tops of theſe mountains, are frequently [155] ſo high, that they appear like clouds above the ho⯑rizon.

The principal rivers that waſh this country, riſe out of the mountains of Norway, and diſcharge themſelves into the bay of Bothnia, and as theſe rivers are often ſwelled, by the melting of the ſnow and ice, they are full of cataracts and water-falls, which fall with great noiſe from the rocks, and in many places are ſcarce navigable; there is one called Niomeſaſki, or the hare's leap, where the river Luhlao forces it's way, through ſo narrow a paſſage between two rocks, that a hare may leap from one to the other. Theſe cataracts are a great hindrance to ſhips, but they afford a vaſt num⯑ber of fiſhes, and are very beneficial to the melting-houſes.

With reſpect to the lakes, many of them are ſo large, as never to have been traced: ſome are 400 miles long, and 100 broad, and abound with iſlands. They yield ſuch an incredible quantity of fiſhes, that the natives chiefly live on them; and, the Laplanders hold them ſo ſacred, that they will not allow the leaſt dirt to be thrown into them.

The ſituation of this country is ſo near the pole, that in ſome parts, during the ſummer months, the ſun never ſets; and, for three months together, during the winter months, it never riſes for the ſame ſpace of time; [156] but, this part of the country is inhabited by ſavage Laplanders. Though in the ſummer the ſun does not ſet, yet it ſkirts the horizon only, and it's rays only ſlide along the ground; ſo in the winter, it is not much below the horizon, of courſe there is a conſtant twi⯑light, ſufficient for people to purſue their work. Be⯑ſides, the further the ſun is removed from mankind, the more they enjoy the benefit of the moon, for riſing higher than it does with us, it affords a more conſider⯑able light; ſo, that what other nations perform in the day-time, is by Laplanders done by moon-light. Nay, when the moon does not ſhine, the glittering of the ſtars in a pure and ſerene air, give more light than with us, and this, augmented by the glare of the ſnow, enables them to ſee ſufficiently to do almoſt any buſi⯑neſs they have to tranſact abroad.

The air of Lapland is generally very pure and clear, and conſequently not unwholeſome; but the weather is very changeable, owing to the winds, and ſuddenly ſo. The winds rage here with great violence, and one par⯑ticular wind from the ſea, brings with it, ſuch thick fogs, that the people are not able to ſee one another. In the winter-time, this wind drives ſuch a prodigious quantity of ſnow to the continent, that if any one is caught in it, he has no other remedy, than to lay flat on the ground, and cover himſelf as well as he can, till it is over, and then make the beſt ſhift he can to get from under it, and ſeek ſhelter in the next cottage. [157] Among the mountains which ſeparate Swediſh Lapland from Norway, the winds rage, ſays Olaus Petri, with ſuch fury, as ſometimes to carry men and beaſts from the tops, a great way down the precipices, ſo that they are never ſeen or heard of more; the only remedy peo⯑ple have in ſuch tempeſtuous times, is, to run for ſhel⯑ter to a den or a cave. On theſe mountains, no trees will grow; and, it is eaſy to be imagined, that the cold in this country muſt be exceſſive, intolerable to any one but thoſe who are natives of the place. In winter, it is no unuſual thing for their lips to be fro⯑zen to the cup in attempting to drink, and the limbs of the inhabitants often mortify with the cold.

Among the productions of this country are pine⯑trees, fir, juniper, birch, the ſervice-tree and willow, the aſp, the alder and the dog-tree. Lapland produces no oak, beech or haſel, nor any fruit-trees, ſuch as our apple, pear, or cherry-trees; they have currants and a variety of palatable berries, ſome peculiar to the cli⯑mate; and, many uſeful herbs. Vaſt quantities of an⯑gelica grow every where wild, on ſhort but thick ſt [...]lks, and they have ſome herbs, met with in no other coun⯑try than this, ſeveral different moſſes, and a graſs, which is ſo ſoft and warm, that the Laplanders put it into their ſhoes and gloves, to defend them againſt the rigor of the cold.

[158]Silver mines have been diſcovered and worked in Lapland, and there are alſo mines of copper and lead, and plenty of iron-ore. Beautiful cryſtals are alſo met with, and ſome amethyſts and topazes, and a va⯑riety of minerals poliſhed by nature. Pearls are like⯑wiſe met with in ſome of the Lapland rivers, but not in the ſeas, and they are found not in oyſters, but in ſhell⯑fiſh like muſcles; they have not that lively brightneſs that makes the oriental pearls ſo valuable, though now and then one is found of equal ſize and beauty. I ſaw once, ſays Scheffer, a pearl of Lapland, ſo bright and ſo exactly round, that 120 crowns was offered for it, and the jeweller proteſted, that if he knew how to match it, he would not ſell them both for 500 crowns. Whilſt theſe pearls are growing they ſtick faſt within the ſhell, but, when come to maturity looſen, and when the muſcles open, drop out.

CHAP. II. Of Animals, Birds and Fiſhes.

AMONG the wild-beaſts of Lapland, the bear is eſteemed the king of the woods, exceeding the reſt in ſtrength and fierceneſs. They are very nu⯑merous here, and do conſiderable miſchief to the cat⯑tle, [159] and thoſe ſtore-houſes which the Laplanders erect on the bodies of trees, for the bears will pull them down and deſtroy the proviſions there hoarded. The elk or elges, is the next animal of importance, it is ſomething of the rein-deer kind, but as large as a horſe. A French gentleman, employed by the Daniſh. merchants, who traded to the north in the beginning of this century, relates, that he was once out an elk⯑hunting, in Norway; that they no ſooner ſaw an elk than, (before they fired at it,) it dropped: and, that aſking how it came to fall down dead in that manner, was told, it was the nature of the animal to be thus taken with a kind of falling ſickneſs, which often ſeized them in the beginning of a chaſe, and that from this diſeaſe, they are called Elks, or miſerable creatures. When cloſe attacked, the elk will ſtand boldly in his own defence, and will frequently deſtroy two or three dogs by his heels. There are alſo in Lapland, wild rein-deer, wolves, gluttons, beavers, otters, foxes, mar⯑tins, ermines, ſquirrels and hares. The wolves here are white, and great enemies to the tame rein-deer; but, what is remarkable, a wolf will never attack a rein-deer, if it be tied to a ſtake; but, if at liberty, he often becomes their prey. Poſſibly the wolf is afraid of a ſnare, and therefore avoids the rein deer when he ſees the rope by which he is tied, for this creature is very timorous, and alarmed at the ſight of a rope, which he conſiders as a ſnare to catch him. Beſides as the Laplanders generally tie their rein-deer to [160] ſtakes when they milk them, wolves, when they ſee one tied, conceive a man is near at hand to kill them. But ſome wolves are ſo fierce, that they will ſometimes fly upon a man or woman, (eſpecially if ſhe is with child,) ſo that travellers, ſays Olaus Magnus, are obliged to go armed, and women are never ſuffered to travel without an armed attendant, the wolves being eager after them if with child, and they know by the ſcent, if they are ſo.

Gluttons are likewiſe very numerous here. The head of this animal is rounder than, and their tails long and ſharp like, the wolf's, and it's body larger, but feet ſhorter, than the otter's. It's ſkin is very black and very bright, and looks like black-flowered da⯑maſk; it is valued almoſt as much as a ſable-ſkin, though the hair is not ſo ſoft, nor ſo fine. It is an am⯑phibious animal, dwelling partly in the water like an otter; indeed, ſome have taken it for a ſpecies of the otter, but it reſembles moſt our turnſpit-dogs. It is a gluttonous animal, nothing coming amiſs to it, but it lives chiefly on water-fowl. It is ſo ravenous, that it is ſaid to devour a carcaſe larger than itſelf, and un⯑burthens it's ſtomach, by ſqueezing itſelf between two cloſe ſtanding trees.

Of foxes, there is a great variety in Lapland, black, brown, aſh-colour and white; the black ones are the fineſt and rareſt, and their ſkins are worn on the caps [161] of perſons of the beſt rank in Muſcovy. They will fetch 10, or 15 ducats a piece. Some of the brown foxes are marked with a black-croſs on their backs, as our aſſes are.

Martins, alſo, are no leſs numerous than the foxes, and no country affords finer ſkins than this. The food of the martin is birds and ſquirrels. By the help of it's claws, it will climb the trees in the night and catch the ſquirrels, who have no chance of eſcaping, but, by running up upon the ſmaller boughs to the top of the trees, where the martin by it's weight cannot follow them, and by leaping from one tree to another. The birds they catch whilſt at rooſt.

The number of ſquirrels throughout Lapland, is incredible; and, they have this peculiar property, of changing their colour twice a year. In ſummer, they are red; in winter, grey. But notwithſtanding their numbers, they ſometimes leave the country in ſuch troops, that few are left behind. Samuel Rheen and Olaus Petri, who have both been eye-witneſſes of the fact, aſſert, that when they are about to leave the coun⯑try, they retire in whole troops to the lakes, and there putting themſelves upon ſmall pieces of bark or cork, ſet their tails upright, as if they were under ſail, and are carried as the wind directs them; though ſometimes they will paddle on with their feet. If the weather ſhould prove tempeſtuous, perhaps both the ſhips and [162] ſhip's crew, ſhall fall a ſacrifice to the waves; but, ſhould this be the caſe, the country is ſoon re-ſtocked, by the few that remain, for a female ſquirrel brings five or ſix at a litter.

The ermine is nothing but a white weaſel, with the tip of it's tail black; it alſo catches mice as weaſels do. The mice are mountain-mice, and differ from ours by having ſhort tails and ſtanding hair of a red and black colour mixed. They are called in Norway, Lemming. Rheen ſays, they appear ſuddenly in rainy and ſtormy weather, and cover the ground by their vaſt multitudes, ſo that Olaus and Wormius have im⯑agined they fell from the clouds; but the fact is, that they either delight in rainy weather, or perhaps are driven by violent rains and ſtorms from their caves. They are not fearful but bold, and do not run away at the approach of a paſſenger, but will, if ſtruck, turn about and bite the ſtick like an enraged dog. They never enter any houſes or huts, or do any miſ⯑chief there, but keep among the ſhrubs and brambles. They will ſometimes divide themſelves into two par⯑ties, and attack each other like warriors, and when the Laplanders, who are a ſuſpicious people, ſee this, they conceive it preſages future wars in Sweden. Theſe mice are not only food for the ermine and fox, but alſo for the rein-deer: and what is ſingular, their life is ſo ſhort, that they live no longer than after an herb, [163] which they have eat of, grows again, of courſe they die in heaps.

Hares here become white in winter, as many other of the Lapland animals do, a care of Providence to preſerve them from the hunter, they being then not diſtinguiſhable from the ſnow.

I come now to the tame domeſtic animals of this country. Lapland affords no horſes, aſſes, oxen, ſheep or goats. Indeed, horſes would be uſeleſs, of courſe, they ſet no value on them; but, the natives ſometimes purchaſe oxen, ſheep and goats, in Norway, for their fleſh, their wool, and their ſkins. They keep them however only one ſummer, and then kill them. The only tame animal, proper to Lapland, and which is no where elſe to be found, except in the moſt northern parts, is the rein-deer, and perhaps the moſt uſeful of any in the creation. It reſembles the ſtag, only is larger, and droops it's head, and it's horns project for⯑wards. The Laplanders call it Herki or Puatze. When the rein-deer walks, the joints of it's feet make a noiſe like the claſhing of flints, or cracking of nuts. In ſummer it feeds upon graſs and leaves, and in the winter upon moſs, which it has a wonderful ſagacity in diſcovering, and when found, it ſcrapes away the ſnow that covers it, with it's feet. Such as are deſigned for uſe, the Laplanders geld at a year old, by biting the nerves near their genitals. The females, like our [164] ewes, furniſh them with milk, cheeſe and young ones, and it is obſervable, that ſuch as have young ones, (though the fawns ſuck them before they are milked,) will give more milk than thoſe who have no young ones to ſuckle. Their milk is as rich as cream, and very nouriſhing. Though thin milk makes good cheeſe, it will not make butter. As theſe animals are of great uſe, they are careful to preſerve them from wild beaſts, or ſtraying into danger; for which purpoſe, the maſter and miſtreſs, as alſo the children and ſer⯑vants, are commonly near at hand whilſt they are feed⯑ing. It is a hard ſervice for ſervants in the winter-time, to watch them, whilſt they feed among the mountains. This and their ſmall wages, is the reaſon why they do not continue above ſix months in one place, their yearly wages being no more than a rein-deer of two years old. Scanty as their proviſion is in winter, the rein-deer thrives beſt at this ſeaſon of the year, for in ſummer, they are nothing but ſkin and bones. They ſwim with their bodies half above the water, with ſuch incredible force and ſwiftneſs acroſs the largeſt rivers, that a boat with oars ſhall ſcarce be able to keep up with them. This animal ſeldom lives beyond the thirteenth year, and what is moſt ſurpriz⯑ing, ſays Lundius, is, that when a Laplander dies, the whole, or at leaſt the greateſt part, of his rein-deer, die at the ſame time.

[165]The chief part of a Laplander's riches conſiſts in the number of rein-deer he poſſeſſes, for beſides the food it furniſhes, wh [...]ther freſh or dried, they are uſed as horſes in travelling, their ſkin forms excellent cloath⯑ing both for the bed and body; their milk and cheeſe, are pleaſant and nutritive, and their inteſtines and ten⯑dons are converted into thread and cordage. But with theſe excellent qualities, they are not without their in⯑conveniences; for, beſides the difficulty of keeping them from ſtraggling, they frequently grow reſtive, to the great danger of the driver and his carriage. Their ſurprizing ſpeed, (for they are ſaid to run at the rate of 200 miles a day,) ſeems to be owing to their impa⯑tience to get rid of their incumbrance. None but a Laplander could bear the uneaſy poſture in which he is confined in the ſledge they travel in; or believe, that by whiſpering the rein-deer in the ear, they make him acquainted with the place they are travelling to, and the length of the journey he has to go.

The rein-deer thus ſupply the place of horſes, ſheep and cows, to which other nations are accuſtomed; it is the animal to which the Laplanders apply all their care, except their dogs, which they train up to hunting, and guarding their huts and cattle, and which they ſell commonly to one another, for one, two, or three crowns a piece.

[166]Of the winged tribe, Lapland abounds in ſwans, ducks, geeſe, lapwings, ſnipes, and all ſorts of water-fowl, beſides heath-cocks, ſtock-doves, wood-cocks, and partridges; and of poultry, they have cocks, hens, and turkeys, of all kinds. The lapwing here, ſeems to be a bird of paſſage, as they come to this country every ſpring to breed. Olaus Petri ſays, they come in ſuch vaſt flights as to darken the ſky, and wherever they ſettle at nights, or come to look for food, they make ſuch a noiſe, that you may hear them at half a league's diſtance.

There is a kind of ſnipe peculiar to this country, called by the natives Kniper, black on the head, back and wings, the bread and belly white, with a long red bill, ſet with teeth, with ſhort, red, webbed feet, like thoſe of a duck.

Their partridges are white here in winter, and grey in ſummer, and differ from our partridges in this, that they have feet like hares, covered with wool inſtead of feathers, from whence they are called Lagepedes. Be⯑ſides theſe uſeful birds, in the mountains they have eagles which will ſometimes kill the young rein-deer.

With reſpect to fiſh, they have incredible quantities of all kinds. Scarce any part of Europe abounds ſo much with ſalmon, as the Bothnian ſea. From their mountains deſcend vaſt rivers of freſh water, in which [167] ſalmon are ſeen to ſwim againſt the ſtream in ſhoals: 1300 barrels of ſalmon have been exported from Torna, in one year, and whole ſhip loads of dried pikes, the produce of the lakes, are annually tranſported into Germany. This country produces few weazels, and no ſnakes; neither are inſects very frequent here. Fleas they know not, but are full of lice, becauſe the Laplander's wear no linen, and change their cloaths very ſeldom. They louſe themſelves in the ſummer, and in the winter expoſe their cloaths to the cold air, which kills them. In the marſhy grounds of the north, they are peſtered with great gnats, which make an odi⯑ous noiſe when they ſting. The rein-deer run from them to the tops of the mountains, and the natives de⯑fend themſelves againſt them, by keeping in their huts a continual ſmoke; when aſleep, they cover their heads and bodies with a blanket, and when abroad, they cover themſelves with ſkins, and a cloth-cap, which they can pull occaſionally over their faces; but, ſome beſmear their faces with roſin or pitch, by way of a further defence.

CHAP. III. Of the People.

THE Laplanders in general are very low of ſtature, ſeldom more than four feet and an half in height; which has given occaſion to the anci⯑ents to place their pigmies in theſe northern countries. The women are rather handſome, their complexion being a mixture of white and red; but the men are ſwarthy, and probably the lowneſs of their huts and tents, and their conſtantly ſitting in the ſmoke, may contribute not a little to the dingineſs of their hue. They are not only ſhort of ſtature, but extremely thin, a fat man being ſeldom ſeen among them; for the cold⯑neſs of the climate not only prevents their growth, but dries up the moiſture of their bodies. They have very thick, large heads, prominent foreheads, ſhort and flat noſes, wide mouths, and like hogs, are hollow and blear eyed. Their hair is ſhort, ſtraight, hard, and thin, and univerſally black in both ſexes. The beards of the men ſcarce cover their chins. Their breaſts are broad, their waiſts rather ſlender, and though the men in general are ſpindle-ſhanked, they are extremely active and ſwift of foot. They will ſwim over their lakes and rivers with incredible ſwiftneſs, and are ſo expert at [169] diving, as to continue under water a conſiderable time, and when they riſe, will, with a ſpring, throw themſelves frequently out of it. Lundius, who was a native of Lapland, gives us an inſtance of the agility and expert⯑neſs of a fellow, that lived in his time; who, having quitted his habitation, to change it for a better, came with his whole family to the banks of the Stoortutaad, which being frozen over, he endeavoured to paſs upon the ice; but, ſcarce had they reached the middle of it than the ice broke under them, and his wife and an⯑other woman were carried away by the rapidity of the current; which the Laplander no ſooner ſaw, than he plunged into the water, ſwam after them a great way under the ice, and brought them ſafe aſhore, to the ſur⯑priſe of his countrymen, who, agreeable to their ge⯑neral infatuation, were perſwaded he had formed him⯑ſelf into a fiſh. Rivalling each other in climbing inacceſſible rocks and the higheſt trees, like monkeys, are their daily exerciſes. But, vigorous and nimble as they are, they ſeldom, if ever, walk upright, but ſtoop continually, attributed to their ſitting on the ground in their low cottages.

Dwelling chiefly in the foreſts, among wild beaſts, each family at a conſiderable diſtance from another, and enjoying no converſation but what ariſes within their own hovels, what wonder is it that they ſhould be addicted to ſuperſtition, but of this I ſhall treat at large hereafter. In diſpoſition, they are timid and daſtardly [170] beyond expreſſion, flying at the very ſight of a ſtran⯑ger, or at the approach of a ſhip to the ſhore, from a conception, that they come to rob them, or carry them into ſlavery. From this inherent timidity in the Lap⯑landers, the Swedes never draw any of their ſoldiers from among them, whereas, every other part of that kingdom furniſhes a certain number: and yet timid as they are, they will live and paſs whole nights alone, in the moſt dreadful foreſts, without any appearance of fear, and are not in the leaſt terrified at thoſe viſions or ſpectres, which they idly conceive appear to them on the tops of the higheſt mountains. Nay, ſo ill adapted are they to a military line, that from the greateſt natural attachment to their native country, they could not live long out of it, but would ſoon lan⯑guiſh and die; beſides, it has been found by experi⯑ence, that not only a more ſouthern climate, but the diet of the Swedes, particularly ſalt and bread, are as incompatible with the conſtitution of a Laplander, as their dried fiſh and raw fleſh, the cuſtomary food of thoſe northern regions, would be with a Swede.

From a conſciouſneſs of their own weakneſs, and a fearful diſpoſition, it muſt naturally occur, that they are miſtruſtful, and the conſequence of this temper is, a proneneſs to do all ſorts of miſchief clandeſtinely, rather than not avoid the danger they apprehend from others. Hence it is, that as they deal much in ma⯑gick, they endeavour to hurt one another, upon the [171] ſlighteſt occaſions. A little matter enrages them, and when they are enraged, they are as ungovernable and blood-thirſty as wild beaſts. This is moſt obſervable in their old women, who, if put into a paſſion, (which they ſoon are) will rave like a mad-man. Should any one, ſays Tornaeus, ſpeak harſhly to them, point at them, or ridicule them with words or geſtures; or ſhould a perſon chance to touch them unawares or a ſpark of fire fall on their hands, they will be ſeized with ſuch a furious madneſs, as to fall foul on him who was the cauſe of it, will tear his face and hands and ſtrike him with any thing in their reach; nay, ſo little reſpect have they on theſe occaſions to themſelves and others, that they will expoſe what nature teaches them to keep concealed; ſo that during this paroxiſm of fury, they are like a perſon raving. In the ſame manner do the men act when drunk.

Among other vices, the Laplanders are very induſ⯑trious in cheating one another, a vice natural to mean ſpirits, endeavouring to be before-hand with others, in what they fear from them; and when they are ſucceſsful in any under-hand trick, they never fail to laugh at thoſe they have outwitted. They are alſo great tatlers, ſo that two or three ſeldom meet, but their converſation is filled with ſlander and detraction. They are very apt to cenſure and find fault with other nations, conceiving themſelves to have qualifications ſuperior to every other country; ſo that there is ſcarce a Swede comes among [172] them but they give him ſome nick-name. They are alſo avaritious, and what is almoſt a paradox, at the ſame time, lazy. Though there are many ſpacious places in Lapland, ſufficiently fertile, they will leave them uncultivated, from more idleneſs. Thus they paſs their lives, chuſing to overcome the want of con⯑venient ſuſtenance by patience, rather than by labour. Neither do they like to beſtow much pains in dreſſing their food, nor do they ever go a hunting, or fiſhing, unleſs neceſſity compels them. No ſooner have they dined, but they lay down to ſleep. This indolence of diſpoſition, may probably give riſe to another bad qua⯑lity they poſſeſs, that is, of neglecting and ill-treating their parents when old and ſick. They are alſo, ſays Wexovius, (in his deſcription of Sweden, a man who lived among them,) addicted to laſciviouſneſs, though they abominate and puniſh adultery. Men and women without the leaſt diſtinction of age or ſex, live and lie promiſcuouſly in the ſame hut. Clandeſtine cohabita⯑tions, ſays Lundius, are very frequent among them, eſ⯑pecially among the men and maid-ſervants, without the leaſt danger of baſtardy, they being naturally of a barren conſtitution. Indeed the whole country of Lap⯑land is not computed to contain more than 60,000 inhabitants. The Daniſh Laplanders, ſays the French traveller I have mentioned, are ſtupid, brutal and laſ⯑civious, eſpecially the women, who will proſtitute themſelves to all comers, if they can do it unknown to their huſbands. The Swediſh Laplanders have two [173] other bad qualites, that of drunkenneſs, and ſwearing: in times of the firſt, they are ſure to quarrel and often cut one anothers faces with knives; and in their oaths, they make uſe of the moſt dreadful imprecations. He who ſwears, will frequently ſtrip himſelf naked to his waiſt, and thus ſolemnly devote himſelf, his wife, chil⯑dren and rein-deer, to the devil. They take it for granted, that if the ſwearer is innocent, no harm will be the conſequence of this oath; but if otherwiſe, ſome great misfortune will attend him. If the whole family be innocent, they will all eſcape without harm. Their melancholic habit renders them very ſubject to fright⯑ful dreams and apparitions, which they conſider as in⯑fallible preſages by their genius, of what is to beſal them. Thus they are frequently ſeen lying upon the ground aſleep, and ſome ſinging loudly, others howl⯑ing and making a hideous noiſe, like wolves.

After exhibiting their ill-qualities, it is but juſtice I ſhould ſay ſomething of their good ones. They are in the firſt place ſtrict obſervers of conjugal fidelity. Thefts are never known among them, every one en⯑joying his own in quiet, without the leaſt danger of being robbed: though they will over-reachone another in their dealings, they abhor the very thought of ſtealing. Foreign merchants trading in thoſe parts may, and often do, leave their property in the open air, covered only from the ſnow and bad weather, and travel to a great diſtance to buy up more commodities, [174] without the leaſt danger of loſing it. And indeed, in a country without villages, incloſures or fixed habi⯑tations, without ſuch an honeſt diſpoſition in the peo⯑ple, they could not trade there at all. The Lapland⯑ers alſo are very charitable to the poor, a character almoſt incompatible with avarice, but they are ſo; and, will frequently provide them lodgings and ſuſ⯑tenance for months together. They are very ready to aſſiſt the poor with their own rein-deer, either by giv⯑ing them one, or lending them more than one, nay two, three, ten or twenty, for a whole ſummer. They are alſo very obliging and hoſpitable to ſtrangers, receiv⯑ing them with great kindneſs, and being ready to do them all the good offices in their power.

On the whole, however, this nation compared with other northern countries, is barbarous and unpoliſhed, but they are naturally a cleanly people, waſhing their hands and faces many times a day. Neither do they want ingenuity, making all their tools and houſhold furniture themſelves. They make alſo their own clothes and ſhoes, and all their inſtruments of hunting, fowling and fiſhing, and many things they make for foreign trade. They have a genius likewiſe for ſing⯑ing, and have generally a clear and harmonious voice.

CHAP. IV. Of their Houſes and Habits.

IN former ages the Laplanders did not inhabit any houſes, but dwelt about in tents and huts, erected in places, where conveniency of paſturage or fiſhing led them; but, this cuſtom of wandering from place to place was aboliſhed by an edict of Charles IX. in 1602, the words of which run thus. ‘We ordain that in every Lapmark (that is province of Lap⯑land,) a certain regiſter be made of all the fens, lakes and rivers, as likewiſe of the names and numbers of all thoſe, who hitherto have enjoyed the benefit of them. Secondly, that an exact ac⯑count be ſtated, betwixt the number of families and that of the rivers and lakes, in order to make ſuch an equitable diviſion among them, that each family may not poſſeſs any more rivers and lakes, than are requiſite for it's maintenance. Every Lapmark be⯑ing thus divided, honeſt and juſt men are to be ap⯑pointed, who, without favour or affection, ſhall aſ⯑ſign to each family it's due proportion; after which time, it ſhall not be lawful for any Laplander to [176] wander at his own diſcretion, throughout the whole Lapmark, as has been the cuſtom hitherto.’

Since the time of this edict, each family has been confined to it's own allotment, it not being lawful for one to invade, or encroach upon, the property of an⯑ther. Though their former cuſtom of wandering from Lapmark to Lapmark was thus put a ſtop to, yet, their habitations are by no means ſettled, but they wander about within certain diſtricts, as convenience induces them; indeed, the neceſſity of getting their livelihood, which depends on rein-deer, fiſh and wild animals, obliges them to ſeek out for ſuch places as will furniſh their rein-deer with paſturage, and their families with fiſh and game. This change of habitation, muſt not be ſuppoſed to be ſo total, as that they leave, and ne⯑ver return to, their former ones; but they rather take a regular round, within the ſpace of a year through all the parts of their allotment. This is the cuſtom of thoſe Laplanders who live among the mountains, but thoſe who take up their reſidence in the woods, return fre⯑quently to their dwellings in the courſe of a year. Such as accuſtom themſelves to fiſhing, are careful to dwell always near their lakes or rivers in ſpawning time, and thoſe who abound in rein-deer, remove in the win⯑ter to the woods, and in the ſummer to the mountains of Norway. When they travel thus, from place to place, they are not guided by the track of any high road, their being no ſuch thing in Lapland, not even [177] in the ſummer; but, they know how notwithſtanding to find out their huts, though at ever ſo great a diſtance, as they will find out a bear or other wild beaſt when they once diſcover his track. In the winter-time they perform theſe circuits in their ſledges, of which I ſhall ſpeak, by and by; in the ſummer they travel on foot, and carry their utenſils in paniers, upon their rein-deer. Theſe paniers are made of thin broad laths of flexible fir, ſuch as the Dutch commonly make boxes of in the nature of band-boxes, the top of which is encloſed with lattice-work of birch twigs, which opens occaſionally, and the bottom is covered with bark or ſkins. Theſe are hung over the back of the animal, by thongs, the bottom to the ſide of the beaſt, and the top outwards, a rein-deer thus loaded, will carry about 160lb. weight. Thus they not only remove their utenſils, but their houſhold furniture, and alſo their children, that are not able to walk, whom they hang on the ſides of the rein-deer, in their cradles. When they are thus removing their quarters, they proceed generally in the following order. In the front, walks the maſter of the family, followed by ſeveral rein-deer ſo laden, then his wife, followed by other rein-deer, next, the remainder of the beaſts, driven gently along in one herd by their chil⯑dren and ſervants, and the cavalcade cloſed with him who has charge of the magical drum, of which I ſhall give the reader a particular deſcription. The rein-deer thus laden, follow one another, the one behind be⯑ing [178] tied to the panier of the one before, and the fore⯑moſt led by the maſter.

The mountain Laplanders build their huts but ſlightly, becauſe they return but once a year; and, on quitting the place they deſtroy them; but other Lap⯑landers, make theirs more durable, as they leave them ſtanding. They firſt erect them in the following man⯑ner. They fix four poſts at as many corners, on the tops of which they place three croſs-beams, ſo that there ſhall be one on each ſide, and one behind, but none acroſs the tops of the two foremoſt poles. On theſe croſs-beams they ſet up ſix long poles or rafters, leaning with their tops againſt each other, to form an angular roof, which they cover with a thick woollen cloth, called by them Waldmer, but the more opulent cover this again with linen.

The wood Laplanders make their huts either of boards, or ſix poſts meeting at the top in the form of a cone, the bottom of which is a ſexagon, covered with branches of fir, the bark of fir or turf. To this hut they have a door before and behind; the fore-door is the common entrance, but the back-door is ſacred to the men, through this they bring in the proviſion of the day, which they catch in hunting, and here they perform their ſacrifices to their God Thor. The women are forbidden to go out through this door, becauſe the men, who always paſs this way, when they go out hunt⯑ing [179] conſider it as an ill-omen to meet a woman at ſuch times. Theſe houſes or huts are not divided by partitions, but the ſeveral chambers are diſtinguiſhed by logs or pieces of wood laid on the ground, and the whole compaſs of the hut is ſo contrived, that the hearth of ſtone can be placed in the center. The ſmoke riſes through the top, which is open. In theſe huts ſleep the whole family, the maſter with his wife and daughters on one ſide the fire-place; his ſons, and the men and maid-ſervants, on the other. A hut in Daniſh Lapland, has alſo no light but what enters by a hole in the top. None of theſe northern nations make uſe of beds. The whole family, matter, miſtreſs, children, men and maids lie down all together, very familiarly, on bear ſkins, ſpread in the middle of the room, and when they riſe in the morning, the ſkins are taken up and laid by till they are wanted again at night, for the ſame occaſion.

The floor is covered with branches of birch-trees to keep them from wet, over which are ſpread ſkins of rein-deer, which ſerve both for beds and chairs. Theſe are their dwelling-places, in which two ſuperſtitious ceremonies are obſerved, viz. No one in walking up and down the hut, muſt follow him who is going out, but muſt keep his turn between the fire and thoſe who ſit about it, and no woman in croſſing the hut muſt paſs with her feet over the legs of a man, they conſidering it as ominous.

[180]Beſides theſe huts, they have ſtore-houſes, where they keep their fleſh, fiſh and other proviſions; theſe are erected with wood on the trunk of a tree, after all the branches are cut off, not unlike our pidgeon houſes, built upon poſts, ſo that they are about nine or ten feet from the ground; the door is at the bottom like a trap-door, to which they have acceſs, by ſteps cut out in the trunk of the tree, like a ladder. Theſe lofty ſtore-houſes are deſigned to ſecure their proviſions from wild beaſts, and to prevent their climbing, the ſteps are conſtantly greaſed.

The men in the ſummer wear brogues reaching down to their feet, cloſe to their body, over which they have a coat or looſe garment, reaching to the middle of the leg, and tied round the waiſt with a girdle. They wear no linen, their clothes being made of a light-grey coarſe woollen cloth, called Waldmar. But the richer ſort of people, wear better cloth of different colours, green, blue and red. Black they never wear. Even the better ſort of people make uſe of coarſe woollen when at home, and employed in daily work. The girdle is generally leather, ſtudded with tin, and a tin buckle; the more opulent decorate theirs with ſilver ſtuds, which reſemble a ſemicircular button. At the girdle hangs a knife in a ſheath, with a ſquare pouch, rather longer than broad, with a purſe, and a caſe with needles and thread. The knives are brought from Norway, and the ſheath, which is made of rein-deer [181] ſkin, is ſewed together with tin-wire thread, and embroidered with the ſame, and at the end of which hang ſeveral rings. The pouch is alſo made of rein-deer ſkin, the hairy ſide outwards; over which is an⯑other ſkin of the ſame ſize, and this again they cover with red, green or blue cloth, ornamented with tin⯑wire thread. In this pouch they keep a cryſtal-ſtone, with which they ſtrike fire, a ſteel with ſome brimſtone, ſome tobacco, and other odd things. Their purſe is of the ſame leather, ſhaped like a pear, here they keep their money and things of value; at the end of it hang abundance of rings. Their needle-caſes are alſo de⯑corated in the ſame manner. Beſides theſe, they wear abundance of braſs chains and rings on the girdle, as well as moſt other parts of the body. The pouch hangs down before, below the girdle, the reſt on both ſides. On their heads they wear a cap, which the better ſort cover with ſome ſkin. In ſhape, they reſemble our night-caps, are made of ſome coloured cloth, or of hare-fur, twiſted and knit like our ſtockings, ſome⯑times they are made of the Loom-bird ſkin, with the feathers on. (In Daniſh Lapland, this cap reſembles a ſeaman's bonnet, but made of rein-deer ſkin, with the hair outwards, and bordered with white or grey fox-ſkin.) They have alſo a method of fitting the whole bird with his head and wings to their heads, which is not unbecoming. They wear gloves like ours; their ſhoes are of a peculiar make, made of rein-deer ſkin, with the hair on and all of one piece, except that they [182] are ſewed together at the bottom, on which they tread; ſo that the hair of the one part lies forwards, that of the other, backwards; this is contrived to prevent their ſlipping. They put their feet into a hole in the top, the toe is pointed and bends upwards, and the ſeams are ſtrengthened with ſome narrow pieces of red cloth. They wear them on their bare-feet, and tie them on with leather ſtrings, wound three or four times round their ancles. That they may ſit cloſe to the feet, they ſtuff them with hay.

When the gnats are troubleſome, they wear leather garments, and in the winter, the men wear both coats and breeches of rough rein-deer ſkin, called mudd. They have boots, gloves and caps of the ſame, and their caps at this time of year, cover all the head like a hood, reaching down round the ſhoulders, and having only a hole before juſt big enough to look through.

The women in ſummer-time wear long coats, which cover their breaſts, arms and whole body, being laid in pleats from the middle downwards. Theſe they call volpi, and are worn over their bare ſkins, having no linen. The women alſo wear girdles, but broader than the mens, and inſtead of ſtuds, ornamented with plates a finger's length and more, on which are engraved birds, flowers and the like; theſe are faſtened upon leather, ſo cloſe to each other, that the whole girdle ſeems to be but one piece of tin. The richer ſort make theſe of [183] ſilver. From this girdle hang abundance of braſs chains, and on one of them a knife and ſheath, on an⯑other a pouch, on another a needle-caſe, and on all a great many braſs rings, and all hung before, to the weight of 20 lbs. and more. But this weight they diſ⯑regard, as they like the jingling it makes, and think it adds to their beauty.

They wear alſo a kind of tippet, made of coloured cloth, which ſurrounds the neck about a hand's breadth, and coming down on both ſides below the breaſts, ends in a narrow point. This they adorn with many ſtuds upon the breaſt, and ſometimes about the neck, en⯑graved with all ſorts of figures, and with ſmall chains hanging on them. On their heads they wear a kind of round red cap or bonnet, flat on the top; on their legs, ſtockings that reach only juſt below the ancle, and on their feet, ſhoes like the men. In the winter, their garments are like thoſe of the men, both ſexes wearing breeches in cold weather. Women unmarried or mar⯑ried wear the ſame habits. At night they cover them⯑ſelves all over with woollen blankets or rugs, to defend themſelves from the gnats, which in ſummer are very troubleſome, and to remove the inconvenience of their weight, they ſuſpend them at ſome diſtance from their bodies, by ſtrings faſtened to the top of their huts. Under theſe coverlids, upon one or two rein-deer ſkins they lie quite naked, both in ſummer and winter.

[184]Women's cloaths in Daniſh Lapland, are made either of coarſe cloth, or rein-deer ſkins with the hair outwards. Their ſtockings are of the ſame, their ſhoes of fiſh-ſkin, with the ſcales on, and reſemble the wood⯑en ſhoes in France, having nothing to faſten them on. Their coifs are like thoſe of the Norwegian women. Their hair is twiſted up into two braids or treſſes, one of which hangs down on one ſhoulder, and one on the other. Their coif is made of coarſe canvas, and all their linen is of the ſame kind; ſome of them wear a ruff eight fingers broad, which they tie behind them as gypſies do. In Muſcovy Lapland, the women em⯑broider their own and their huſband's clothes on the edges with tinſel thread, which they draw between their teeth, as fine as wire-drawers do their threads of gold and ſilver with a drawing-iron.

CHAP. V. Of their Magical Arts and Ceremonies.

THERE is ſcarce a country under the ſun, where the name of Lapland has reached, but what has heard of their magic, which is not yet quite aboliſhed among them. Theſe countries, ſays Olaus Magnus, [185] ſpeaking of Finland and Lapland, (but who was a very credulous man,) were in the time of paganiſm, ſo well inſtructed in ſorcery, as if they had been diſciples of Zoroaſter, the Perſian. They are ſuch prodigious ſor⯑cerers, ſays Peter Claudi, writing of the Norwegian Laplanders of later times, that I much queſtion whe⯑ther they ever could, or can now, be matched in this art, by any upon earth. At preſent, however, they do not practiſe it ſo frequently, nor ſo publicly as they did in former times, the king of Sweden having put a ſtop to it by ſevere laws. The reaſon the people give for uſing it, is to defend themſelves againſt the evil deſigns of their countrymen, for which reaſon parents inſtruct their children in the art, and when they die, bequeath to them as part of their inheritance, ſuch ſpi⯑rits and daemons as they have found ſerviceable to themſelves. Were I to mention the many wonderous ſtories and miracles, which many reſpectable writers have ſaid they have wrought, the reader would only laugh at me, for magic in this enlightened age, is wholly exploded. But, according to the opinion of Laplanders, certain families have their own daemons, not only differing from the familiar ſpirits of others, but alſo quite contrary and oppoſite to them, that is, ſpirits belonging to them, hoſtile to thoſe of others, and ſecuring them againſt the daemons of other fami⯑lies. Some Laplanders are weak enough to believe, that they are poſſeſſed by a daemon from their very in⯑fancy, and ſome from the time of manhood. Whilſt [186] he was buſy in the woods, a Laplander will tell you, a ſpirit appeared to him and offered him aſſiſtance on certain conditions, which he accepted. This ſettled, the daemon taught him a certain ſong, which he is obliged to keep in conſtant remembrance. Theſe ſpi⯑rits, ſay they, appear under different ſhapes, ſome like fiſhes, ſome birds, others like a ſerpent or dragon, others in the ſhape of pigmies, about three feet high. No ſooner are they ſeized, as they ſuppoſe by the ge⯑nius, but they appear like madmen, bereaved of rea⯑ſon. This continues for ſix months, during which time, they do not ſuffer any of their family or relations to come near them; but, range about the woods and other ſolitary places, melancholy and thoughtful, ſcarce taking any food; which renders them extremely weak. If you aſk their children where, or how, they receive their ſuſtenance, they will tell you, from their genii.

In every houſe in Daniſh Lapland, there is a large black cat, which is highly reſpected by them. The Laplanders talk to it, as if it was a rational creature, and go out of their huts every night with it to conſult it alone, and it will follow them like a dog, either a fiſhing or hunting. Though this animal looks like a cat, I ſhould have believed it, ſays the French gentleman, (whom I have mentioned,) had I had but a little more ſuperſtition, to have been a familiar ſpirit miniſtring to them.

[187]Whenever a Laplander, ſays Lundius, has occaſion for his familiar ſpirit, he calls to him and makes him come, by merely ſinging the ſong he taught him at the firſt interview, by which means, he has him at his ſer⯑vice whenever he pleaſes; but they never appear to the women, or enter into their ſervice. To exerciſe their ſorceries, they have recourſe to certain inſtruments, a drum, knots, darts, ſpells and the like. The magical drum, called by the natives Quobdas or Rannus, is made out of the hollow trunk of a pine, fir or birch-tree, growing in certain particular places, and turning ac⯑cording to the courſe of the ſun. It is made out of the root, cleft aſunder, and hollowed out on one ſide, over which they ſtretch a ſkin, the other ſide is convex, with a handle raiſed by notching the wood deep on each ſide of it. They reſemble our kettle-drums, but are of an oval form. On the ſkin which covers this drum they draw in red paint, made of the bark of an alder-tree, boiled and beaten, various figures of their own Gods, as well as of Jeſus Chriſt, the apoſtles, ſun, moon, ſtars, birds and rivers. Whenever they are diſ⯑poſed to beat this drum, (which they often do, with a ſhort piece of rein-deers horn, the end of which bran⯑ches out like the capital Y; they place a large braſs ring with ſeveral ſmall ones ſtrung on it, on a figure drawn for the ſun, in the centre of the ſkin that covers this drum, which when beaten, dances over theſe figures, and according to it's progreſs, the ſorcerer prognoſti⯑cates, The Finlanders, bordering upon Norway, and [188] ſubject to the crown of Denmark, uſe theſe drums like⯑wiſe. They are conſidered as ſacred things, are always carefully wrapped up, and never ſuffered to be touched by marriageable women. If a family drum is to be removed from one part of the country to another, it is either carried laſt of all and by the hands of a man, or elſe muſt be brought, by a quite different road, or ſome untrod way, leſt if any one, but more eſpecially a woman ſhould paſs the ſame way after it, it might en⯑danger her health, if not her life. Should it ſo happen, ſays Wormius, that a woman is obliged to travel the ſame way, through which the drum has been carried before, ſhe preſents a braſs ring for the uſe of the drum, to break the enchantment.

Now theſe ſuperſtitious people weakly imagine they can effect four things by the help of this drum, viz. to learn what is paſſing in diſtant places, though never ſo remote; to know the good and bad ſucceſs of any undertaking; what iſſue any diſtemper is likely to have; to cure diſeaſes, and to know what ſort of ſa⯑crifice their Gods are beſt pleaſed with. The drum⯑mers are generally men who are bred to the profeſſion, live by it, and thoſe who wiſh to conſult them, pay in proportion to the enquiries they make. He who beats the drum kneels down, as do all the perſons pre⯑ſent, and ſings a ſong with a loud voice. After he has done beating it, he falls down, with his face on the ground, and the drum over his head, as if in a trance, [189] the men and women preſent, continue their ſinging without intermiſſion, till the drum-beater is awakened from his trance, to put him in mind of what is de⯑ſired to be known, and take ſingular care that no fly or inſect incommodes him; for they imagine, if he was either diſturbed, or they were to diſcontinue ſinging, he never would come to life again. When the man awakes from his trance, in which he is ſometimes many hours, and during which time they conceive his ſoul to have left his body, he tells what he has been able to learn, by help of his drum.

Another inſtrument of their magic is a cord with knots, which they uſe, to raiſe a wind. And northern maſters of veſſels are ſuch dupes to the arts of theſe impoſtors, as to buy theſe cords, in order to procure the gale they have occaſion for. Of three knots tied in this cord, by looſening the firſt, they are to have a tolerable fair wind, at untying the ſecond, a very freſh gale, but by looſening the third, they are to have very tempeſtuous weather; this art of magic is moſt prac⯑tiſed by thoſe Laplanders ſubject to the crown of Nor⯑way, and who live upon that coaſt. The mariners of thoſe ſeas, are alſo weak enough to ſuppoſe, that theſe magicians can ſtop a ſhip in full ſail, let the wind blow never ſo ſtrong; and that there is no remedy againſt this enchantment, but by ſmearing the maſts and doors of the veſſel with the menſtrual blood of virgins, which was the opinion of Pliny, (Lib. 28. c. 7.) I am very [190] apt to believe, ſays he, what is related of the menſtrual blood, viz. that it deſtroys all magical arts, if ſmeared only on the poſts of the doors.

The French traveller whom I have already men⯑tioned, gives us the following relation of this magical proceſs, but as his account is wonderful, and not ac⯑companied with his name, we muſt leave the credit of it to our readers.

We were becalmed on the Finland coaſt; ſome of our crew were ſo ſuperſtitious as to give credit to the common opinion, that the inhabitants of the country under the artic-polar circle, as well as thoſe that dwelt on the coaſts of the ſea of Finland, are wind-mer⯑chants, and can raiſe and ſell a gale when they pleaſe. It is certain, they are almoſt all of them wizards, and as children of the prince of the air, pretend to diſpoſe of the wind, as their proper merchandize. We were weary of lying upon that coaſt, and this led us to try means to get off, however impoſſible theſe means might ſeem to be. The captain of our ſhip was for trading with the wizards, accordingly he ſent his long-boat aſhore, with his mate, to trade with ſome of theſe men, and purchaſe a wind, a commodity we then ſtood much in need of. Though I believed nothing of the matter, I had the curioſity to accompany him. We landed at the firſt village we came to, and applied ourſelves to the chief necromancer, told him what we wanted, and [191] aſked, if he could furniſh us with a wind that would laſt till we reached Mourmanſkimre. The conjuror gravely replied, No; and told us his power extended no farther than the promontory of Rouxella. It being a great way to that place, we thought if we got there, we might eaſily make the north-cape, of courſe re⯑queſted him to go on board with us, and make his bar⯑gain with the captain. The wizard conſented, took three of his comrades with him, leaped into a ſmall fiſhing-boat, and accompanied us to the ſhip. The price was ſoon agreed on, (ten Kronen, about 35 or 36 ſhillings Engliſh, and a pound of tobacco,) for which the wizard was to furniſh us with a fair wind to Rouxella. The money being paid, he tied a woollen⯑rag to the corner of our fore-maſt. It was about half a yard long, and a nail in breadth, with three knots in it. This was all the captain had for his ten Kronen. When the necromancer had done this feat, he returned on ſhore with his companions. The captain, agreeable to the inſtructions he had received from the conjuror, untied the firſt knot in the rag, and it ſo happened, that the wind immediately blew weſt, ſouth-weſt, a briſk gale, and carried us thirty leagues beyond Maelſtroom, without giving our captain any occaſion to untie the ſecond knot, and this accident confirmed our crew in their diabolical ſuperſtition. This Maelſtroom is an eddy or whirl-pool in the Norwegian ſea, in which many veſſels that approach too near it, have periſhed, (of which we ſhall ſpeak more in our account of [192] Norway.) The wind beginning to ſhift a little, and inclining to the north, our captain untied a ſecond knot, which kept it in it's old corner till we made the promontory of Rouxella. When we had paſſed it, the needle of our compaſs turned back half an inch, which led ſome to fancy there was load-ſtone in the mountain, and had we not had a very dexterous pilot, we ſhould certainly have loſt our courſe. We were two days and two nights in this dangerous ſituation, having nothing to depend upon but our pilot's expe⯑rience. On the third day, being far diſtant from the mountains of Rouxella, the needle of our compaſs pointed again to it's center, from which we concluded that we drew near the north-cape, where the wind fail⯑ing us, our captain untied the third knot, at which there aroſe a north north-eaſt wind, ſo violent, that we thought the heavens would fall on us, and that God was going juſtly to puniſh us for not relying on his providence, but dealing with infernal artiſts. We could bear no ſail during the tempeſt. Our ſhip drove at the mercy of the winds and waves, and we expected every inſtant to go to the bottom. Every one fell on his knees and begged God's pardon. I own, I never was ſo much afraid in all my life, and I believe the whole crew were in equal conſternation, when by good⯑luck, or through Divine mercy, the extraordinary force and agitation of the waves prevented our ſtriking, and drove us a muſket-ſhot off the rocks, for we had been driven very near the ſhore. On the fourth day the [193] wind was laid, and, being pretty fair, we, in two days after, put into port.

A third inſtrument of their magic, is a leaden dart, about four inches long, which they ſuppoſe the magi⯑cian can ſend forth to a great diſtance, to take revenge of their enemies, who are thereupon ſeized with a cancerous tumour in the legs or arms, ſo as to deſtroy them in three days.

They have a variety of other magical contrivances to bring about certain purpoſes, which it would tire the readers patience to relate. The magic cord in⯑deed, to procure favourable winds, is a very common traffic on the banks of the red ſea, and is managed with great addreſs on the part of the magician, who thus keeps up the price of his knotted Taliſman.

CHAP. VI. Of the Diet of the Lapland Nation, and their Manner of Catching their Food, &c.

THE general diet of the people is not the ſame all over Lapland; for, as the Laplanders are divided into high-land and wood-land, ſo there is a [194] remarkable difference in their food. The Lapland mountainers or Fiàl-Lappais, ſays Samuel Rheen, live upon their cattle, and, not being accuſtomed to fiſhing, they live upon fleſh, cheeſe and milk, all of which their rein-deer ſupply them with; beſides which, they frequently, about midſummer, purchaſe ſheep, goats and oxen, from Norway, which they milk in the ſum⯑mer and kill in autumn. Their food then in the ſpring is chiefly cheeſe and dried fiſh; in the winter, ſcarce any thing but the fleſh of rein-deer boiled: Rein-deer veniſon is very good food, and the fat and marrow, a delicacy, as with us. They eat alſo the blood of the rein-deer, boiled with water to the conſiſtence of a poultice.

The wood Laplanders, or Graan-Lappars, as they are called, feed partly upon fiſh, and partly upon wild-fowl and wild-beaſts, which they catch in the foreſts. Among all the wild-beaſts, bears fleſh is moſt in eſ⯑teem, and their greateſt delicacy. They have alſo certain ſauces made of black-berries, ſtrawberries, a kind of mulberries, and the like, of the wild angelica, and the inner rind of the pine-tree. This is all the Laplanders food; for bread and ſalt are things known only to few. As they neither ſow nor reap, they have no flour; what they have, is from Norway. In⯑ſtead of flour, they uſe dried fiſh, which they grind to powder. Inſtead of ſalt, they ſeaſon their food with the inner rind of the pine-tree, which they ſlice into [195] thin ſkins, no thicker than parchment, dry in the ſun, then cut it into ſmall pieces, put it up cloſe in boxes made of bark, bury it in the ſands for 24 hours, kind⯑ling a good fire over the hole, which turns it red, and makes it very palatable. As a relick of popery, they abſtain from fleſh every friday, eating fiſh, milk or cheeſe. They boil their meat freſh, juſt enough to heat it through, in order to preſerve the gravy, and make, as they think, their broth the better. They fre⯑quently boil fiſh and fleſh in the ſame kettle, but their fleſh dried in the ſun or air, they eat without further dreſſing; boiling only the bones, for the ſake of the marrow.

Their drink is commonly water, which to prevent it's freezing, they keep in a kettle hanging over the fire; but, they occaſionally drink the water in which their fiſh or fleſh has been boiled, and ſometimes whey. Ale and beer uſed among other northern nations is un⯑known to them, being deſtitute both of barley and hops. But when they make merry, or drink for plea⯑ſure, French brandy is their liquor, and nothing will ſo ſoon win their hearts as a preſent of it. To allay the heat in the mouth occaſioned by the brandy, they uſe a juice of berries, which they preſerve againſt the winter. The ſame French gentleman I have mention⯑ed, tells us, that the Laplanders of Denmark, have a ſour liquor, which they drink with greater gout than either beer or brandy, and it is made by an infuſion of [196] juniper-berries, and a grain like lentils, both which grow there in plenty. They make a brandy of the ſame grain, and it has the ſame effect as that drawn from the grape. Though it is as ſtrong as French wine, this traveller ſays, they drink it as common drink, among the Swediſh Laplanders. The uſe of tobacco is much in faſhion, which they purchaſe from Norway, and of which, they make ſnuff. Indeed theſe northern nations, where bread and ſalt is ſo ſcarce, have ſo particular an inclination for tobacco, that it is almoſt fatal to them.

In the winter, they eat within their huts, in the ſum⯑mer, on the graſs, without them. They ſit or lye down in a circle, without any ceremony or precedency, every one taking his place, where he lights firſt, and without either bench or ſtool, but merely on a ſkin, with their legs under them. In this circle they draw a piece of board, or ſtump of a tree before them by way of table. Their meat when taken out of the ket⯑tle, is laid on a piece of woollen cloth, (for plates or diſhes they have none,) and in better houſes upon lin⯑en. Any liquid thing, they put upon a wooden tray. They take up their meat with their hands, and for want of plates, put it on their gloves or caps. Their drink is taken up in a wooden ladle, which ſerves them for a cup. They are great eaters when they have any thing to eat, at other times, can faſt as well as thoſe who have none; are never ſparing of their food, but [197] will eat day and night while it laſts, though their ge⯑neral meals are but twice a day, morning and evening. There are two things they never omit at meals, one is to ſay grace after them; and next following the grace, to exhort one another to mutual faith and charity, giv⯑ing each other the hand as a pledge of that reciprocal attachment, which ought to ſubſiſt between perſons of the ſame family. Whilſt grace is ſaid, they lift up their hands by way of acknowledgment, and the words are to this purpoſe. ‘Good God, be praiſed for this meat, and grant that what we have now eaten, may conduce to the ſtrengthening of our bodies!’

Having ſhewn what the Laplanders live on, let us next ſee how they procure their food. This is by hunt⯑ing, the chief employment of the men. There are certain days of the year, which they conſider as omi⯑nous, ſuch as St. Catherine's, St. Mark's, and St. Cle⯑ment's, on theſe they never hunt, leſt their bows ſhould break, and they ſhould have ill-ſucceſs all the year after. Beſides, they never attempt to hunt, till they have conſulted their drum; and, if they meet a woman in their way, they have ſmall hopes of ſucceſs. It is for this reaſon, as I obſerved, that the women are never ſuffered to go out of their huts at the ſame door, with the men. They eat but little before they go abroad, in hopes of returning ſoon, and ſeldom take any food with them but a little rein-deer marrow, which they [198] conceive ſtrengthens their legs: if they are not ſucceſs⯑ful, they faſt the whole day.

In ſummer-time they hunt on foot with dogs, which are of a very good ſort, both for ſcent and attack, and to make them fiercer, they keep them always tied up: but in winter, they track the wild-beaſts in the ſnow, and follow the track, with long wooden ſcates on their feet, which I ſhall preſently deſcribe. Small beaſts they kill with bows and arrows, the larger ones, with ſpears and fire-arms. Ermines and beavers are caught in traps, as we catch mice; and ſquirrels they kill with blunt darts, that their ſkins may not be injured; indeed they are careful, with pointed darts not to ſtrike the animal in a part that will injure the ſkin, and they are the beſt markſmen in the world. Hares are caught in ſnares, and whoever finds one ſnared, will always re⯑ſtore it to the right owner. The rein-deer is killed at rutting time; by tying a doe to a tree, the bucks will ſoon come about her, and when they are within gun⯑ſhot, they fire at them, but in the ſpring they ſoon overtake them, with their ſcates.

It being conſidered as the greateſt piece of bravery in a Laplander to kill a bear, ſuch as have, adorn their caps with as many tin-wire laces as they have killed bears.

Birds they kill with ſnares and fire-arms, and as often as they kill one with a gun, they pull out two of the largeſt feathers from the left wing, and throw it down at the place where the bird was ſhot, to appeaſe the anger of the gods of the foreſt.

[202]It is evident from what has been ſaid, that the Lap⯑landers muſt; uſe ſeveral ſorts of weapons in hunting. The firſt are their bows, which are about three yards long, made with birch-wood lined with a ſlip of pine, as giving a greater elaſticity to them, glued in by glue made of the ſkins of pearch boiled. Theſe bows they draw by the mere ſtrength of their arm, but they have croſs-bows made of ſteel, the ſtring of which they draw by an iron hook faſtened to their girdle, ſetting the foot within a ring faſtened to the head of the bow, ſo that they have the whole power of the body to draw the ſtring to the nut, which holds it. Their arrows are of two ſorts, one pointed with iron or horn, and the other blunt, to kill an animal without wounding the ſkin. Their guns and croſs-bows they have from Sueder⯑tramden, a town of Helfingerland, famous for ar⯑mourers and gun-ſmiths, from whence alſo they are ſupplied with gun-powder and lead for ſhot. The mountainers ſometimes get their guns from Norway, and will give from eight to ten crowns for a good one.

I mentioned above, that the Laplanders purſued wild-beaſts over the ſnow by means of long wooden ſcates. Theſe are long ſlips of wood eight or nine feet in length, and about twice as broad as the foot. One ſcate is generally a foot longer than the other. The bottom is covered with rein-deer ſkin with the hair on, the grain of which turns backwards, in order to pre⯑vent [203] their ſlipping back. Theſe are faſtened to the feet by withs that govern the foot, and the withs tied round the leg. With theſe ſcates, by the help of a ſtick, with a round piece of wood at the bottom, to prevent it's entering the ſnow, will they drive them⯑ſelves along ſo incredibly ſwift, as to overtake the fleeteſt rein-deer; and, what is aſtoniſhing, they will, by writhing and twiſting their bodies, aſcend by wind⯑ings the higheſt mountains, and deſcend from the tops again without any danger of falling, which ſeems next to an impoſſibility. In climbing the rocks, the hair of the ſkins with which the ſcates are covered, prevents their going backward, and when they deſcend, their motion is as ſwift as the wind. Some uſe theſe ſcates better than others, but thoſe who are maſters of the art of ſcating, will travel 50 miles in a day, and after drinking about a glaſs of wine, will appear as freſh and hearty as if they had never ſtirred out. The Swedes call this way of ſliding, Skriidabini.

CHAP. VII. Of their Employment.

THE chief employment of the men, as I have obſerved, is hunting; but, they have other buſineſs, in providing the neceſſaries of life. Among theſe, cookery claims the firſt place, for all their food is procured and dreſſed by the men, ſo that the wo⯑men never interfere in the kitchen, unleſs the men are abſent. The Laplanders are alſo their own boat-build⯑ers, which are made of deal, faſtened or ſewed together with twigs, and calked with moſs. They are made about ſix yards long, and about one and a half broad, and are rowed with two or four oars, and are ſo light, that one man can carry them. In theſe they will ven⯑ture upon the moſt rapid rivers, generally naked in ſummer-time, to be ready for ſwimming in caſe of overſetting, and though they are timorous in other reſpects, when they are going to ſome great fair, or ſolemn meeting, they will in theſe boats paſs cataracts or water-falls, of half a league long betwixt the rocks, without any ſign of fear, alleging, that they are con⯑ducted on by their genii.

[205]They make alſo their own ſledges, which reſemble a boat, cut in half, boarded up at the ſection. Theſe are round at the bottom, ſo as to roll from ſide to ſide, the fore-part is turned upwards, to prevent any inter⯑ruption in paſſing the ſnow, and the top covered before about a yard in length with ſeal-ſkin, ſtretched over hoops to keep out the ſnow, under which they ſtuff moſs or hay to warm their feet, leaning with their back againſt the upright piece at the other end. They are generally made about two yards long, and juſt broad and capacious enough to hold one perſon.

The men are alſo dexterous in making boxes and large cheſts, which they inlay with bone. They are alſo ſo clever at baſket-making, that no other nation can come up to them. Theſe are made of the roots of trees, ſteeped in hot-water, and ſlit in long thin pieces, ſo as to bend at pleaſure, which they twiſt and entwine ſo cloſe together, that they will hold water like a ſolid veſſel. Theſe baſkets are much eſteemed in Sweden, and frequently tranſported into foreign countries, for the goodneſs and beauty of their workmanſhip.

They make all ſorts of carpenters work, and veſſels hollowed out of wood, with great art, and a variety of uſeful things in horn and bone, carved and inlaid. They have alſo a method of cutting flowers, beaſts, &c. in bone, by way of moulds, in which they caſt tin, to wear on their girdles. Their hunting inſtru⯑ments [206] they ornament very curiouſly. All theſe things are made by the men, each for his own family, having received no inſtructions but from their parents, or what they acquire from their own ingenuity.

The employments peculiar to the women, are mak⯑ing cloaths and ſhoes for themſelves and for the men, and harneſs for the rein-deer; and to effect this, they firſt make their thread of rein-deer nerves, which are beaten and prepared like flax. Some of theſe threads they cover with tin-wire, like our ſilver thread. They alſo ſpin wool for ſwadling cloaths, and knit their white hare's-fur into caps, which the women wear as a de⯑fence againſt the cold, and are ſofter than ſwans-down itſelf; they alſo weave their fillets with a ſhuttle. The method of drawing their tin-wire, deſerves to be parti⯑cularly mentioned, they having no other inſtrument than a piece of horn with holes in it of different ſizes, through which they draw the wire with their teeth, and will draw it as ſmall as gold-wire, but in pieces of about an ell only in length. With the thread covered with this wire, they embroider their cloaths, and thoſe women who are moſt expert at this, are beſt eſteemed. They alſo embroider their glove-tops, boot-tops and ſhoes, in ſo pretty a manner, and enrich their apparel with tin plates, caſt in curious moulds, and ſuch a variety of ſpangles, as in a ſun-ſhiny day make a very glittering appearance. They decorate the trappings of their rein-deer in a ſimilar manner.

[207]As the women take part with the men in all their journeys, and each bears her ſhare of the toil in tra⯑velling, they wear breeches as well as the men. In ſummer-time they travel on foot, in winter, in ſuch ſledges as thoſe deſcribed, which having a flat part be⯑hind, the perſon within leans againſt it with his back, and is tied cloſe in with linen or leather-fillets, ſo as to leave only the upper part of their bodies at liberty. This ſledge is drawn by one rein-deer, not joined to it, as we join our horſes to a carriage; but, by a ſingle rope faſtened on a thick cloth round the animals neck, and paſſing between his fore and hind legs to the prow, or head of the ſledge. He who rides, governs the beaſt with a ſingle rein fixed to his head and horns, which he holds in his right-hand by a ſtick faſtened at the end of it, and by which he can throw the rein at pleaſure, either on the right-ſide or the left. The ſledge he governs with his left-hand, for, being ſe⯑micircular at bottom, it requires ſome care to ballance it, leſt it ſhould overſet. They will thus travel, ſays Zeigler, 150,000 paces, or 30 German leagues in 24 hours, and the women are as expert, in conducting this machine as the men. The account of the journey made in 1653, by order of the northern company, erected at Copenhagen, by Frederic III. gives the fol⯑lowing deſcription of the ſledges in Ruſſian Lapland, and their manner of travelling in the winter; but, it is in my opinion too marvellous to be credited. After we had agreed with our hoſt, ſays the writer, for ſome [208] rein-deer, to carry us farther into the country, he ſounded a horn at the door of his hut, at which 14 or 15 rein-deer came running to him inſtantly, of which he choſe ſix, for ſo many ſledges. Being provided with a guide, when we were ready to go, our hoſt whiſpered in the ears of each rein-deer certain words, which we ſuppoſed were to direct them where to go; and in an inſtant, they began to run with incredible ſwiftneſs over hills and valleys, continuing thus with⯑out intermiſſion, till ſeven o'clock at night; when coming into a pretty large village, ſituate in a plain near a lake, they ſtopped at the fourth habitation, and all together ſtruck with their feet againſt the ground. The maſter of the houſe underſtanding the ſignal, came and took us out of the ſledges, and we were ſoon equipped with other freſh rein-deer. After the maſter had whiſpered into their ears, they ran very faſt all night, without keeping any certain road, till about two or three o'clock in the afternoon, when coming to a ſmall village on a hill, near a foreſt, theſe beaſts ſtop⯑ped as the others did, but meeting with no inhabitants, we were obliged to bait them for an hour with the moſs we could find, and refreſhed ourſelves with what proviſions we had. This done, we were for continuing our journey, but it was not without a great deal of trouble, that our guide could make them go further, this being the place appointed by their maſter; which obliged him to have recourſe to his wits, for he went into the adjacent wood, and returning, whiſpered into [209] the rein-deers ears three or four times, ſo that at laſt they went on, but not ſo faſt as before.

The women alſo aſſiſt the men in fiſhing; for, beſides angling and dragging, they kill a great deal of fiſh in the winter, by thruſting their nets under the ice, which they do, by making holes in it above and introdu⯑cing a ſtick; and then by ſtamping upon the ice, they frighten the fiſh into the net.

CHAP. VIII. Of the Amuſements, Marriages, Language, &c. of the the Laplanders.

THAT the Laplanders are naturally inclined to idleneſs, I have already ſhewn. Let us then ſee how they diſpoſe of themſelves in their idle hours. Their moſt general way is in viſiting and talking, for as they lead a ſolitary life, each family living ſeparate in it's own hut, at a conſiderable diſtance from one another, they delight much in mutual converſation.

At public meetings during their aſſizes and fairs, which are chiefly in the winter ſeaſon, they have ſome ſports peculiar to the men, and others for the diverſion [210] of both ſexes. The men frequently try their ſkill in jumping over a line tied up at certain heights, and over ditches and rivulets, and alſo at ſhooting with a bow and arrow, and wreſtling; and the women as well as men, frequently play at a kind of trap-ball; cards alſo make a part of their amuſements, and their games are thoſe common to all Europe.

Theſe are their ſportive tranſactions; among their ſolemn ones, their marriages claim our firſt attention. He who intends to marry, looks out for a maid well-ſtocked with rein-deer; for it is the cuſtom in Lapland, for parents to preſent their children, as ſoon as born, with one or more rein-deer, and ſo again when they cut their firſt tooth, which for ever after, with all their encreaſe, belong not to the parents, but to thoſe chil⯑dren they were given to; ſo that by the time a girl is 18 or 20 years old, with good luck, ſhe will be poſſeſſ⯑ed of a numerous herd. Now the more rein-deer a young woman has, the ſooner may ſhe hope for a woer or a huſband; a Laplander's attention, as in this coun⯑try, being more drawn by a woman's fortune, than her perſon. The poorer claſs of people are contented to marry the daughter of a man, who lives in a convenient place for hunting and fiſhing.

When a Laplander has looked out for a wife, which is commonly done at their public meetings, at fairs, or when they pay their tribute to the ſtate, he takes a [211] journey to her father, accompanied by his own father, (if alive,) if not, by two or three perſons whom he thinks will be beſt received, and be moſt likely to in⯑tercede in his behalf. When they reach the end of their journey, they are all invited to come in, except the ſuitor, who ſtays without, paſſing his time in ſome trifling employ, till he is alſo invited in; for, without an expreſs invitation, it is conſidered as rude for him to enter with the reſt. After they have raiſed their ſpi⯑rits with brandy, which they bring with them, as a pre⯑ſent, and call "the wine of good ſucceſs," the young man's friends enter on their buſineſs, and the ſpokeſman ſolicits the maid's father's conſent, and that he may not be wanting in reſpect, he addreſſes him as if he was a prince, calling him, ‘Grandſire, venerable father, beſt and greateſt of fathers,’ bending his knee at every word he ſpeaks: if they were acquainted with the title of Majeſty, they would give him that amongſt the reſt. During this application, the young woman is ſent out of the way. If the young man is admitted to addreſs his miſtreſs, he goes immediately out of the hut to his ſledge, puts on his ſunday's apparel, and ſhe being called in, he is ſuffered to ſalute her, which is done not only by preſſing their lips, but their noſes together. After the ſalute, he preſents her with ſome of the beſt dainties the country affords, which he takes out of his boſom, as a rein-deer's tongue, the fleſh of a beaver and the like, which ſhe, in the preſence of others, re⯑fuſes to accept; but, being ſecretly called out, they [212] are again offered, and if accepted, the ſuitor requeſts leave to ſleep near her in the hut, which if granted, the marriage is as good as concluded; if ſhe rejects his propoſals, ſhe throws the preſents at his feet. But frequently, notwithſtanding her and her father's con⯑ſent, the marriage is deferred for a long time, ſome⯑times two or three years; for the young man is obliged to get the conſent, of all her kindred and relations, which is generally not done, but by preſents. In the mean time, however, he viſits his intended bride occa⯑ſionally, and on his way diverts himſelf with ſome amorous ſong, of one of which the following is a tranſlation.

Theſe ſongs are not ſet to any tune, nor always ſung in the ſame manner, but according to the taſte and abi⯑lities of the ſinger.

Whenever they pay their miſtreſs a viſit, they carry brandy with them as a preſent, with tobacco and bea⯑ver's kidneys powdered, which they uſe as ſnuff. Should there afterwards ariſe any difference, or ſhould the young woman's father retract his promiſe, he is by law, obliged to pay for all the brandy and other things preſented, except that which was drank at the firſt meeting; and, it is but juſt he ſhould, for a father will ſometimes keep a ſuitor in ſuſpence a whole year, in order to get from him what he can. But, ſhould every thing ſucceed according to expectation, the wed⯑ding-day [214] is appointed. The day preceding it, all the young couple's relations meet at the bride's hut, where the bridegroom makes his marriage offerings, accord⯑ing to agreement; to the bride's father perhaps, a ſilver drinking-cup, a braſs kettle, with a bed and bedding: to the mother, a ſilver girdle, a long robe, and a tippet or collar embroidered with ſilver: to the brothers, ſiſters and other relations, ſilver ſpoons, ſil⯑ver plates and ſuch like. The next day the marriage ceremony is performed at church, by the miniſter, and followed by a feaſt. The bride and bridegroom ap⯑pear in their beſt apparel; the bride with a coronet on her head, golden chains about her neck, and rings on her fingers; the bridegroom clothed in fine cloth, with a ſilver girdle round his middle. The firſt thing the bride does is to unlooſen her hair, and give the ſtring to the maiden who is next of kin to her; they then bind her hair with a ſilver fillet, in imitation of a co⯑ronet. As they enter the church, the bridegroom is conducted in by the men, and before the bride, ſome virgins lead the way; next comes the bride, led or rather dragged along by a man and a woman, and with a melancholy countenance, as if reluctant to enter into the ſtate of matrimony. They are married after the Lutheran ceremonial, and when ſhe is to ſay yes, as a token of modeſty and chaſtity, it is with ſo low a voice, as ſcarce to be heard, even by the prieſt. When the ceremony is over, they return to the bride's hut, where they are entertained, and where each of the [215] gueſts brings his ſhare of the proviſions. If the hut will not contain the whole company, the boys and girls climb up to the top of it, and by ſtrings let down within, with hooks at the end, draw up their proportion of the feaſt. When the wedding is over, the new-mar⯑ried man is not at liberty to remove his wife and goods immediately, but is obliged to ſerve his father-in-law for a whole year after; at the expiration of this time, he may, if pleaſes, ſet up for himſelf, when her father not only gives her the rein-deer, which he beſtowed on her in her infancy, with all their increaſe, to the num⯑ber ſometimes of 100, but alſo all ſorts of houſhold furniture, and a number of rein-deer more: as do all the reſt of her relations.

They are very ambitious of having a numerous fa⯑mily, but ſeldom have more than ſeven or eight chil⯑dren. As ſoon as a woman is delivered of a child, ſhe takes a large draught of whale's-fat, which is procured from Norway, and which is as rank as train-oil; the infant is firſt waſhed with ſnow-water, and immediately after, when it can ſcarce draw breath, it is plunged up to the neck in warm water. There are women of ſo ſtrong a conſtitution, as not to keep at home after lying-in, more than four or five days. Though the churches are very thinly ſcattered throughout this country, ſome⯑times at the diſtance of two or three hundred miles from each other, yet the Laplanders will carry their children, when but fourteen days old, all this way to be baptized, through wide marſhes, thick foreſts, and [216] acroſs the higheſt mountains. In winter-time they carry them in ſledges, in the ſummer, on a pack-ſaddle, over which the cradle, with a child encloſed, is hu [...]g, but, though the women are able to travel in fourteen days af⯑ter delivery, they do not cohabit again with their huſbands till after the end of ſix weeks. Their cradles are made out of one piece of wood, hollowed like a ſmall boat, covered with leather, and lined with moſs, in which the infant is tied naked; and, when they take it out, they wrap it up in ſoft warm ſkins, with the hair on. When the women travel on ſoon, they ſling the cradle, child and all, upon their backs, like a knap-ſack. Children here grow very ſlow, and are inſtructed by their parents, in all that is neceſſary for them to know, for there are no maſters. The boys are daily taught and very early, to ſhoot at a mark, and when they have been. ny time accuſtomed to it, are not ſuffered to eat, till they have hit it. And the Laplanders are ſo expert at this exerciſe, that they will hit an object of a quarter of an inch in diameter, at a diſtance, as far as they can ſee. As a proviſion for the girls, their fa⯑thers give each of them, as I have before obſerved, a rein-deer or two, at their birth, another at the firſt tooth they cut, and ſometimes again others, at other periods. Theſe with all their increaſe, is the property of the child to whom it is given, and if they are at any time exchanged for money or other things, it is laid by for the child's uſe, and ſhould the parent die, guar⯑dians are appointed to look after it.

[217]Notwithſtanding the Laplanders undergo a great deal of hardſhip, yet they enjoy a great ſhare of health. They ſcarce know what ſickneſs is, nor even thoſe epi⯑demical diſtempers, which ſometimes afflict whole countries. There is no ſuch thing in Lapland, as the plague, putrid or inflammatory fevers. Nay, ſhould infection be carried there, it would loſe its virulency. The only general diſorder among them is ſore eyes, which is often the forerunner of blindneſs, attributed to their conſtant ſitting in ſmoky huts. The moun⯑taneers are often blind, owing to the continual glare of the ſnow on the mountain ſides. They are ſometimes however, afflicted with the pleuriſy, inflammation of the lungs, pains in the back, and giddineſs in the head; and, as they are ſubject to few diſorders, they are ſtrangers to phyſicians, and the uſe of thoſe medicines with which we are acquainted, having recourſe only to ſuch remedies as old women preſcribe. They live fre⯑quently to a great age, to 80, 90 and 100 years, and are able at this time of life, to traverſe the higheſt mountains, and moſt impenetrable foreſts. So that whenever they die, it is generally more from years than diſtempers. When any one is dangerouſly ill, the drum is conſulted, to know whether he will live or die. If he dies, let the diſorder be what it will, the hut where the corpſe lies is forſaken, till they proceed to bury it. If a poor man, the body is wrapped up in an old piece of woollen cloth; if rich, in linen, and put into a coffin made of the trunk of a tree, hollowed [218] out, oy a perſon hired for that purpoſe, and who, till the corpſe is buried, wears a braſs-ring tied to his right-arm, as a preſervative againſt the harm which the manes of the deceaſed might otherwiſe do him. Thoſe who live at a great diſtance from a church, bury their dead in their ſledges, in the firſt convenient place, and ſuch as are leſs religious, put into the ſledge with them, a hatchet, flint and ſteel, conceiving, that as they are to wander through dark, places, they will have occaſion for light, and alſo a hatchet to open themſelves, through the woods, a way to heaven. But ſuch as have been taught to believe in future judgment, bury them in, and near the churches, and ſo deſpicable do they hold the office of a grave-digger, that no Lap⯑lander, worth any thing, will undertake it. They ge⯑nerally employ a Swede, where they can get one, and if not, ſome very poor Laplander. The body of the deceaſed is buried, according to the rites of the Lu⯑theran church, attended by mourners, not dreſſed up as in England, in all the pride of woe, but in their worſt cloaths, and when the body is in the ground, his ſledge and cloaths are left upon the grave, left any in⯑fection ſhould remain in them. The third day after the funeral, they have a feaſt, where the chief diſh is the fleſh of that very rein-deer which drew the body to it's grave, and which is killed for the purpoſe, and eaten in memory of the deceaſed, by all his kindred and relations. The bones of the rein-deer are after⯑wards collected, and buried in a box.

[219]The French writer whom I have had occaſion to mention more than once, travelled from Daniſh Lap⯑landy, to that belonging to the crown of Ruſſia, and he tells us, that he once was preſent at a funeral in Ruſſian Lapland. When a perſon there dies, ſays he, the corpſe is taken from the bear-ſkins on which it lies, and placed by ſix of his moſt intimate friends, in a wooden coffin, being firſt wrapped up in linen, his face and hands only bare. In one hand, they put a purſe with money in it to pay the porter's ſee, at the gate of paradiſe, and in the other a paſs, ſigned by a prieſt, to be given to St. Peter, as a certificate, that he was a good chriſtian, and ought to be admitted into heaven. They alſo put into his coffin, a barrel of brandy, and ſome rein-deer veniſon, to eat and drink on the road, having as they ſuppoſe, a long journey to take. They then place the image of St. Nicolas, inſtead of a cru⯑cifix, near the coffin, and at a convenient diſtance from it pile up ſome fir-tree roots, and ſet fire to them, weep⯑ing and howling plentifully, and throwing themſelves in⯑to a thouſand different poſtures, to ſhew the extrava⯑gance of their real, or affected ſorrow.

This St. Nicolas, is not the one whoſe feſtival they celebrate in France, but Nicolas, one of the ſeven dea⯑cons, mentioned in the Acts of the Apoſtles. They dreſs his image in a pilgrim's habit, in along robe, with a camail or biſhop's ornament, hanging down over his [220] ſhoulders, a broad girdle about his middle, and a ſtaff in his hand.

When this noiſe and geſticulation is over, they march round the corpſe ſeveral times in proceſſion, aſking the dead man, ‘Why he died? If he was an⯑gry with his wife? If he wanted any thing? If he was hungry or a-dry? If he had loſt his game at hunting? If he had bad luck in fiſhing? If he had not cloaths to his mind?’ and the like. This done, they howl again, and limp and act like ſo many mad⯑men; the prieſt who aſſiſts at this ſolemnity, and the mourners every now and then, ſprinkling the corpſe with holy-water.

Of the moveable effects which a Laplander leaves behind him, according to the conſtitution of Sweden, the brother of the deceaſed takes two-thirds, the ſiſter one; and, as they bury their money in the earth, to conceal it from their families, if a father dies ſuddenly, it is ſeldom found. Such rein-deer as have been pre⯑ſented to the children in their infancy, with all their increaſe, come not into the diviſion. If they have any real eſtate, as grounds, lakes or hills, they are not di⯑vided among the children, but are the property of the whole family, as well brothers and ſiſters, as children, founded on the diviſion of the country by Charles IX. by virtue of which each family has it's peculiar allot⯑ment of land, for which they pay an annual tribute. [221] The money they have among them is chiefly rix-dol⯑lars, but they ſeldom take any to their principal fairs, (of which there are two every year, in each Lapmark or province of Lapland, which hold two or three weeks at a time,) but deal by barter, that is, exchanging one commodity for another, unleſs they wiſh to pur⯑chaſe any thing curious or rare, when it is bought with money.

I ſhall cloſe this chapter with a few words on their language. There is a great ſimilarity between the language ſpoken in Lapland, and that in Finland, ſo that there is little doubt, but that it originated in Fin⯑land, from whence the Laplanders ſprung. Each province has a peculiar dialect, ſo that the natives of one Lapmark, will ſcarce underſtand thoſe of another. The Lapland language, like that of other nations, has it's declenſions, compariſons, conjugations, moods and tenſes, and may be grammatically learnt.

The Laplanders have no characters of their own, but their words are written with the Roman letters, ſuch as are uſed by England and other European ſtates. Their almanacks are indeed ſet up in Runic characters, like thoſe uſed in Sweden in former times. There are few of the natives who can read, and much fewer who can write; this not being conſidered as a mark of education.

CHAP. IX. Of their Religion and Government.

THE Lapland nation (as many others before them) was, after it had continued a long time in the darkneſs of paganiſm, enlightened with chriſtia⯑nity. They did not embrace this religion from prin⯑ciple and conviction, but to keep in favour with the crown of Sweden, by whom it was conquered in 1277, [223] and to avoid thoſe penalties that were inflicted on the obſtinate; but it is to Guſtavus Adolphus, in 1559, and to queen Chriſtina, his daughter, who ſucceed⯑ing him, they owe the churches and ſchools that were firſt founded in that country. The churches, however, are but thinly ſcattered, ſcarce more than two or three in any one Lapmark or province, and in ſome, not more than one. Before the cloſe of the 15th century, the Laplanders, were ſo far from having any books written in their own tongue, that they did not under⯑ſtand what letters or writing meant. But certain por⯑tions of the bible, and ſeveral religious books, are now tranſlated into the Lapponian language, and circulated among them, and a number of miniſters are appointed by Sweden, to attend their churches, and inſtruct the people. Nay, ſome of the Lapland youths have of late years applied themſelves with ſuch ſucceſs, to the knowledge of literature, and the ſtudy of divinity, that they have been entruſted with the miniſterial function. When the Lutheran religion took place in Sweden, it ſoon made it's way into Lapland, and continues there to this day; though there are ſome remains of popery left, ſuch as abſtaining from fleſh, on certain days, ſigning them⯑ſelves with the croſs, &c. Great part of the tribute paid by the Laplanders, to the crown of Sweden, is ſet⯑tled upon the clergy here, and upon their families, and has made them ſo independent, that when they take their circuits throughout their reſpective diſtricts, as they do every year, to teach and inſtruct thoſe inhabi⯑tants, who are a great diſtance from the churches, they [224] are treated with great reſpect, veneration, and hoſpi⯑tality. They are very regular and attentive to all pious exerciſes, and are ſeldom, if ever, heard to ſwear; but with all the pains taken with them, their miniſters have not been able wholly to extirpate their ancient ſuper⯑ſtitions and their evil conſequences. Thus they be⯑lieve, that the world was from eternity, and will con⯑tinue for ever; that, when the moon is eclipſed, evil ſpirits are devouring it. Some days they call black and unlucky, and others white, and the reverſe. On the black days, for example, on the feaſts of St. Mark, St. Catherine, St. Clement, and the firſt day of Chriſtmas, they will never go a hunting, or do buſineſs of any moment, as on theſe days they ſay ſpirits wander about, and muſt be appeaſed by certain ſacrifices. They are alſo great obſervers of omens, and make particular re⯑flections upon what beaſt they meet with firſt in the morning. They do not give entire credit to what is taught them concerning the reſurrection of the dead, the union of the ſoul and body, and the immortality of the ſoul, but they believe there remains ſomething of us after death, but know not what it is. They al⯑ſo ſhare their devotion between Chriſt and their ficti⯑tious Gods, whom they worſhip at one and the ſame time. Among their idol deities there are three, whom they adore with more than ordinary reverence, Thor, Storjunkare, and the Sun. By Thor, is underſtood, thunder, or the God of thunder, who has the diſpoſal of man's life and death, and the command of evil [225] ſpirits. They put the rain-bow in his hand, and ſay it is with this he ſhoots the daemons. Storjunkare they conſider as Thor's vice-gerent, and attribute to him the many bleſſings of human life, it being their opi⯑nion, that all animals are ſubject to his juriſdiction. And they worſhip the Sun, as the author of procrea⯑tion, and the origin of light and heat. To each of theſe deities they pay a peculiar worſhip, and offer va⯑rious ſacrifices. The place where they offer up their adorations to Thor, is generally a piece of ground con⯑ſecrated for the purpoſe behind their huts, and within the diſtance of a bow-ſhot. Here they erect a kind of ſcaffold made of boards, and reſting upon feet, not un⯑like a large table. This is the altar on which their ſacred images are placed, and which they ſurround an⯑nually with branches of birch and pine, and ſtrew with their boughs and leaves. To their god Storjunkare, they pay their worſhip at certain mountains, banks of rivers, or ſtanding waters. Theſe places of worſhip are held ſo ſacred, that all women are excluded from them. The image of Thor, is ſeldom any other than the ſtump of a tree, ſhaped on the top, like the head of a man, into which they drive an iron nail, with a ſmall piece of flint, to enable him to ſtrike fire. Of the Sun, they have no peculiar image; worſhipping it under that of Thor, but Storjunkare is repreſented by a large flint ſtone, about a foot high, full of holes, ſuch as they find in or near the high-ways. Their ſacrifices are wholly performed by the men, and prior to their [226] offering them, they always conſult their drum, to know what kind will be moſt acceptable. Their moſt uſual ſacrifices are the buck, rein-deer, except to the Sun, which is always a young doe, though Spirri Nils, a native of Lapland, ſays, they ſometimes will offer up cats, dogs, lambs and hens. Every year they make a new image of their god Thor, and conſecrate it by anointing it with the oil and fat of the firſt ſacrifice, and burying the body ſacrificed. No ſooner does a Laplander approach the ſacred altar, but he makes a low reverence, bare-headed and with bended knees, places his offering on the table, and fixes the horns of the rein-deer on one ſide; ſo that the table ſtands on a plat ſurrounded with horns.

Such is the idolatry and ſuperſtitious worſhip of the Lapland gods, which is continued to this day among many of the natives of that country.

Next is their government. Before they were called Laplanders, that is about the year 900, they were ſub⯑ject to the Swedes, as at preſent; but were governed by a king of their own, as a tributary prince. They were not conquered by the Swedes, till the latter end of the thirteenth century, when Ladiſlaus, though un⯑willing to be at the expence of an expedition againſt a ſet of vagabond ſavages; yet, as he could not endure that a people, dwelling almoſt in the heart of his do⯑minions ſhould refuſe obedience to his crown; he in⯑vited [227] private perſons to undertake the conqueſt, with the proſpect of great advantages. The Bikarti, their neighbours, engaged in it and ſucceeded. On this ſubject, I cannot paſs over in ſilence, a plot laid by one of the Bikarti, for the execution of this deſign, as it is recorded by Buraeus. ‘One of theſe people, having laid a ſcheme to ſurpriſe ſome Lapland chiefs on the road, as they were returning home from Bikarti, (the northern parts of this country being deſtitute of inhabitants in thoſe days,) he lay down in the highway, through which they were obliged to paſs, and ordered his wife to cover him over with ſnow. As this was in the night, and the natives of Lapland, always walk ſingle, one before the other, he roſe unexpectedly upon them, and with his ſword, put them all to death as they paſſed, one ofter the other. The darkneſs of the night, and their diſtance from each other, furthered his deſign, till the laſt man happening to ſtumble over ſome of the dead bodies, perceived his danger, and made a brave reſiſtance, but the inhabitant of Bikarti ſe⯑conded by his wife, at laſt overcame him and ſlew him.’ The Laplanders thus bereaved of their leaders, were ſoon brought into ſubjection, by the craftineſs of one man. From this time, Lapland be⯑came ſubject to the Bikarti, as tributaries to the crown of Sweden. Things continued thus till the reign of Guſtavus I, who in 1518, took the reins into his own hands, and ſent governors into Lapland of his own ap⯑pointment, [228] and it continued thus till the reign of Charles IX. when the government of that country was reduced to it's preſent ſtate.

The Laplanders are governed by the Swediſh laws, and have now, under their king, a provincial judge, a ſenator of Sweden, called by them Lagman, and his deputy called under-Lagman. Next to them an in⯑terpreter of the law, and ſeveral others, whoſe office it is to hear and determine cauſes, from whom there lies an appeal to the court of Sweden. But as the ca⯑pital crimes of theft, rapine, murder and adultery, are ſcarce known in Lapland, and no one either lends or borrows money, every one living contented on what he has, there are but few cauſes that give riſe to thoſe contentions which employ ſo many lawyers in other countries.

Whenever a judge gives ſentence, either in a civil or criminal cauſe, it is always in preſence of a prieſt; from an opinion, that when a prieſt is by, the judge will be reſtrained from acting unjuſtly.

The tribute they pay the crown of Sweden, is either the tenth part of their rein-deer, or three rix-dollars for each deer, and a pair of ſhoes, as carriage-money of the deer to the king's ſtore-houſes or treaſury, a conſiderable part of which is allotted, as I obſerved, for the maintenance of the clergy. Beſides this, they [229] pay ſomething to the king of Denmark, and the great duke of Muſcovy; not that they are any way ſubject to theſe princes, but in return for the many advantages they receive from their territories, having liberty to hunt and fiſh there.

Upon the whole, the inhabitants of Lapland, though dwelling in a cold and icy region, that affords them few of thoſe comforts and conveniences which other nations boaſt of, are far from unhappy, or without their bleſſings. Baſiliſks, ſcorpions, ſerpents, and ſuch-like venemous creatures, are never heard of. Thun⯑der and lightning ſeldom diſturb their reſt, and when⯑ever it does happen, is neither violent nor of any long continuance. Earthquakes and peſtilential diſeaſes, which make ſuch ravages in ſouthern and eaſtern countries, are both unknown in Lapland.

Add to this, they dwell in their cottages, in the ut⯑moſt ſecurity, free from all danger of an inſulting enemy, from the dread of bombs and other murderous inſtruments, and from the fear of being condemned to the gallies, or being carried into ſlavery. Should they ever be attacked by any hoſtile power, (which never yet was done,) or from their ſituation, likely to occur; they have this to conſole them, that without much trouble, they may avoid their fury; they have nothing to do, but to pack up their furniture, cottages and all, and with their whole family, remove them on the backs [230] of their rein-deer, till the danger is paſt, to inacceſſi⯑ble woods, unknown to any but themſelves.

In ſhort, the ſerene winters, the moſt delightful and light, ſummer nights, and the pure and wholeſome air, they enjoy, together with that prodigious plenty of fiſh, with which their rivers end lakes are ſtored; the vaſt number of wild-fowl and beaſts, the produce of their woods; the pleaſantneſs of many of their vallies, the richneſs of their ſilver, copper, and iron mines, the refreſhingneſs of their brooks, and the murmuring noiſe of their water-falls, contribute to entice a conſiderable number of inhabitants to this remote corner of the north.

CHAP. X. A general Account of Ruſſian Lapland. From TOOKE and Others.

RUSSIAN Lapland is about eight hundred miles in diameter, and yet contains no more than twelve hundred national families. The people are of a middling ſtature, have a flattiſh face, fallen cheeks, dark-grey eyes, thin beard, brown hair, are well built, [231] ſtraight, and of a yellowiſh complexion, occaſioned by the weather, the ſmoke of their habitations, and their habitual filthineſs. Their manner of life renders them hardy, agile, and ſupple, but, at the ſame time much inclined to lazineſs. They have plain common ſenſe, are peaceable, obedient to their ſuperiors, not given to theft, not fickle, chearful in company, but miſtruſtful, cheats in commerce, proud of their conſtitution and country, and have ſo high a notion of it and of them⯑ſelves, that when removed from the place of their na⯑tivity, they uſually die of the Noſtalgia, or longing to return. Their women are ſhort, complaiſant, chaſte, often well-made, and extremely nervous. It frequently happens, that a woman will faint away, or even fall into a fit of phrenzy, on a ſpark of fire flying towards her, an unexpected noiſe, or the ſudden ſight of an uncommon object, though in it's own nature not in the leaſt alarming; in ſhort, at the moſt trifling things imaginable. During theſe fits of terror, they fight with every thing that comes in their way, and when they come to themſelves again, are totally ignorant of every thing that paſſed.

In familiar converſation, hearers often move their lips exactly as they do who are ſpeaking.

As the conſequence of a Ruſſian Laplander is de⯑rived from his rein-deer and property; they are anxious to have large poſſeſſions, and hence it is, that their [232] diſputes are chiefly about inheritance; and this covet⯑ouſneſs renders them deaf to the cries of the poor. As they dare not uſe a rein-deer that has once drawn a dead body to it's grave, the interment of a parent will often cauſe a long litigation among the children.

A Laplander often runs away to ſome neighbouring canton, to avoid the puniſhment annexed to ſome tri⯑fling offence, and this retreat is as important to him, as an European would think a flight to the Eaſt-Indies.

Notwithſtanding the introduction of chriſtianity into this country, the Laplanders have preſerved the man⯑ners of the Nomades or ſhepherd people, ſo that they turn not their hands to huſbandry. They are either fiſhers or hunters; but, are often maſters of large pro⯑perty in herds. Some will poſſeſs from 600 to 1000 rein-deer, and a great quantity of ſilver, in money and plate. They mark their deer on the ears, and range them into claſſes, ſo that they conſtantly know whether any one is ſtrayed away, though they cannot count ſo great a number; thoſe who poſſeſs but a ſmall ſtock, give each of them a name. They caſtrate the males, which they mean not to keep for propagation, by cruſhing the teſticles with their teeth. Such rein-deer grow alert, ſtrong, large, handſome and tame; theſe are for draught, and they are held in ſuch eſtimation, that when they mean to paſs a compliment, they will [233] call one another Haërze Jez, that is, a gelded rein-deer. They hunt in ſnow-ſhoes, like the Swediſh Lap⯑landers, and travel as they do, and when they come up with large animals, as wild rein-deer, wolves, &c. they frequently knock them down with heavy clubs.

The dreſs of this people is like that of the Swediſh Laplanders, only, that they carry about them in their pouches, pipes and tobacco, for ſmoking.

They carry on commerce with the Norwegians, and ſell and buy with money. The ballance of this trade is in favour of the Laplanders, becauſe they can fur⯑niſh more ſkins and furs, than they lay out in flour, oatmeal, clothes, knives, hatchets, and other hard⯑ware. Hence it is, they pay their taxes in current coin, though they are at liberty to pay them in ſkins and furs.

Whenever they are inclined to eat, the head of the family ſpreads a mat (Drello) on the ground, covers it with diſhes, and men and women ſquat round it. Every Ruſſian Laplander carries about him, always, a knife, a ſpoon, and a little cup to drink out of. Each has his portion ſeparately given him, that no one may be injured, for they are great eaters. Before and after meals they ſay a ſhort prayer, and when the meal is over, ſhake hands with each other. In their viſits they alſo give the hand and kiſs, ſaying Bueriſs or [234] [...] [235] [...] [232] [...] [233] [...] [234] Puereſs, "I ſalute thee". They ſpread cloaths on the ground for their gueſts to ſit on. The chief place of diſtinction, is between the maſter and miſtreſs. After dinner, they introduce fruit and tobacco; when they ſmoke, they ſpit in their hand and ſnuff the ſpittle up their noſe. On paying a viſit to a perſon of diſtinction, they carry him preſents, and give the name of Bouorazt, to whom they wiſh well to.

The Laplanders do not uſe the hot-bath ſo univerſal in Ruſſia, but every ſaturday, which is with them the holieſt day in the week, both ſexes bathe in rivers to⯑gether.

All the money which they have not immediate oc⯑caſion for, they bury in the earth, as they do their plate and other things of value, nor will, they at the point of death, ſay where it is hidden, conceiving they ſhall want it in the other world. Owing to this, great part of their property is loſt.

Many of their children die by the hard manner in which they are brought up, but thoſe who ſurvive, are generally robuſt and alert. Living free from care, temperance and continual exerciſe, contribute much to their ſtrength of conſtitution, and this is aſſiſted by their taking care to build their houſes on an ele⯑vated ſpot; yet, notwithſtanding all this, they ſeldom live to an advanced age.

[235]The common diſeaſes of the country, are the itch, the phthiſic, and putrid fevers, beſides inflammations of the eyes, general in all places where the habitations are ſmoky. The venereal diſeaſe is unknown here. Their remedies are chiefly idle charms, and ſuperſtiti⯑ous ceremonies. In wounds, however, they apply tur⯑pentine, and for the itch, they bathe in water in which birch-bark has been infuſed. In internal diſorders, they drink the freſh blood of a wild rein-deer. If they feel any external pain, their uſual remedy is fire; they light muſhrooms prepared like touch-wood, and burn it on the part affected, till the ſkin cracks and burſts.

As among the Jews, ſterility is a kind of reproach, ſo is it among the women of Ruſſian Lapland. They are generally delivered without difficulty. The huſ⯑band aſſiſts at the labour, for without this practice, they would often be diſtreſſed; their habitations being ſo far diſtant from each other.

The Laplanders of Muſcovy, and thoſe of Norway, are equally ſuperſtitious and fertile in apparitions and childiſh tales. They never mention the bear by his name, but call him "the old one with the fur cloak." They imagine alſo, that their magicians have the power of controuling the winds and the rain, of producing and deſtroying inſects, of ſpeaking to ſpirits, and a [236] thouſand other fooleries. But they believe at the ſame time, that thunder is inimical to magicians, and hence this proverb, ‘If it was not for thunder, the world would be deſtroyed by magic.’

Of the Chriſtian Laplanders, there are two com⯑munions, thoſe of the Greek and Lutheran churches, and there are of both ſects, many very well meaning, honeſt men.

CHAP. I. Of the Country in general.

BY Norway, is underſtood the northern way. It is bounded on the ſouth, by the entrance into the Baltic ſea, called the Scaggerac or Categate, on the weſt and north, by the northern ocean, and is di⯑vided from Sweden on the eaſt, by a long ridge of mountains. It lies between 58 and 71 and half de⯑grees north latitude, and is, according to the beſt eſti⯑mation, [238] in a direct line through the air, 202 Norway miles, or about 1010 Engliſh long, and it's breadth from the frontiers of Sweden, towards the northern ocean, about the 63d. degree, is about 65 Norway miles, or 325 Engliſh; from thence, the country be⯑comes gradually narrower towards the north, in the frigid zone, where Norwegian Lapland or Finmark is ſituated; but, as this part of Norway is ſufficiently deſcribed in our Account of Lapland, we muſt refer our readers to that, for a knowledge of this part of the country, our deſign here being only to ſpeak of Nor⯑way, from the 69th degree ſouthward.

The air, light, warmth, &c. varies much more in Norway, than in moſt European countries, according to it's extent and expoſure to the ſea. In the begin⯑ning of the year, the day-light encreaſes rapidly, and decreaſes at the approach of winter, in the ſame pro⯑portion. In the middle of February, ſays Pontoppidan, I have been able to read without difficulty, at ſix in the morning, which, at the ſame hour, in October was not poſſible. In ſummer-nights, the horizon, when unclouded, is ſo clear and luminous, that, at midnight, one may read, write, and do every kind of work, as in the day. Chriſtian V. during his ſtay at Drontheim, (which is in 65 degrees, 20 minutes, north;) in June, 1685, uſed to ſup at midnight, without the uſe of lights. In the diſtrict of Tromſen, which is properly the extremity of Norway, towards the Finmark iſlands, [239] about the 68th degree; the ſun is continually in view in the midſt of ſummer, and in the depth of winter, it is inviſible for ſome weeks; and all the light perceived at noon, is a faint glimmering, of about an hour and a half's continuance, which, as the ſun never appears above the horizon, chiefly proceeds from the reflection of the rays on the higheſt mountains, the ſummits of which are ſeen more clearly, than other objects. But this is not the only light there is; be⯑ſides the moon-ſhine, which by reflection of the mountains, is exceedingly bright in the vallies and creeks, ſo that the fiſhermen are well able to follow their employ; at times, when their day-light is con⯑tracted to ſix hours, the Aurora Borealis, or northern lights, enables them to continue their buſineſs.

The degrees of heat and cold, are in Norway vari⯑ous beyond conception, and not only from the annual viciſſitudes of the ſeaſons, but in the very ſame ſea⯑ſon, and on the ſame day. In moſt of the provinces, the winter's cold generally ſets in about the middle of October, laſting till the middle of April, when the waters are continually frozen to a great thickneſs, and the mountains covered with ſnow: the intenſeneſs of the cold is ſo great, that in January and February, the largeſt rivers, with their roaring cataracts, are arreſted in their courſe by the froſt, and the very ſpittle, is no ſooner out of the mouth, than it is congealed and rolls along the ground like hail, and no ſooner has a horſe [240] dropped his dung on the ice, than it moves and leaps about, owing to the ſudden change from heat to cold, which occaſions a violent conflict, when the ſharp and denſe air penetrates forcibly into the lighter, and ex⯑pells it.

It is neceſſary to uſe great caution in ſuch weather, in which an unexperienced and unguarded traveller, may be deprived of his noſe and ears. The natives cover their faces with a piece of gauze, and ſome rub their faces with ſnow; but, in long journeys over the higheſt mountains, where the air is much keener, and the winter quite inſupportable; no precautions will avail, without the convenience of mountain-ſtoves, or houſes with fire in them, which are kept at the public charge, for the repoſe and warmth of travellers. Of the impracticability of travelling over theſe moun⯑tains in the winter months, the Swediſh hiſtory affords a melancholy inſtance. In February 1719, ſeven (ſome ſay nine) thouſand Swediſh ſoldiers, with their officers, periſhed on the mountain of Ruden or Tydal, which ſeparates Jempteland in Sweden, from the dio⯑ceſe of Drontheim, without any other enemy than the extreme cold, which ſurprized them on the ridge of that mountain, where no one could come to their aſſiſtance.

In the autumn of the preceding year, in a war be⯑tween the Danes and Swedes, this corps, which then [241] conſiſted of ten thouſand men, had penetrated into the country, and appeared to have a deſign upon Dron⯑theim, to clear a paſſage for the main army; but the Daniſh general Buddé, made ſuch good diſpoſiti⯑ons againſt the enemy, that they laid aſide their de⯑ſign of attacking Drontheim, and cantoned themſelves among the Norway peaſants; advice however ſoon after coming, that Count Sponeck, was in full march towards them, they had orders to make the moſt precipitate retreat over thoſe deſart and lofty moun⯑tains; but, juſt as they had reached the frontiers of their own country, they were overtaken by a ſtorm, accompanied with an extreme cold and much ſnow, which ſo bewildered them, that the greateſt part of them periſhed. A company of 200 Norwegian ſledge⯑men, under Major Emahus, which followed them cloſe to obſerve their retreat, found the enemy dead upon the mountains, ſome ſitting, ſome lying, and ſome in a poſture of prayer, all frozen to death. How great muſt have been their diſtreſs, may be judged from their cutting their muſquets to pieces, in order to burn their ſtocks. Generals Labarre and Zoega, were among the dead, but Generals Alderfield and Horn, barely eſcaped with their lives; and, of the whole body, only 2,500, or according to others, no more than 500, ſurvived this dreadful cataſtrophe.

But the ſeverity and inconvenience of this cold, it has pleaſed the Creator to temp [...]r with ſome advan⯑tages, [242] and a greater variety of preſervatives againſt it, than other countries afford. This froſt and ſnow fa⯑cilitates the conveyance of goods by land; for without it, they can neither convey the timber they have felled, to the water, nor carry their goods to market in their ſledges. The country abounds in large foreſts, afford⯑ing them plenty of fuel and timber, for building. The wool of the ſheep, and the furs and ſkins of wild-beaſts, furniſh them with warm linings for their clothes, and good bed-covering. The innumerable flights of wild-fowls, ſupply them with down and feathers; the mountains themſelves ſerve for fences and retreats; and above all, it is to be obſerved, that even the cold air occaſions warmth in the human body, by rendering it more firm and compact, and fortifying it againſt ex⯑ternal injuries. Thus is the natural warmth, by the cloſeneſs of the pores, repelled towards the inner, vital parts, particularly the ſtomach, ſo, that the northern people are known to digeſt ſmoked-fleſh, dried fiſh and and other food hard of digeſtion, better than any other nations. In ſhort, I may venture to affirm, ſays Pon⯑toppidan, that were the Norwegians tempted by any thing to change countries with the Italians, the winter's cold would not be their motive, for this is the leaſt of their complaints, and for my part ſays he, (ſpeaking of Bergen, which lies in the 61ſt. degree of latitude) I cannot ſay, that the cold here has ever been more painful to me, than in other parts.

[243]We muſt here alſo mention a wonderful inſtance of divine oeconomy, reſpecting the weather, which we ſhould heſitate to commit to writing, did not thouſands of witneſſes confirm it. When the winter rages with ſuch ſeverity in the eaſt parts of Norway, that all the freſh waters are frozen, the lakes and bays are open on the weſt ſide, though lying in a direct line with the eaſtern parts; the air is miſty and cloudy, and the froſts are ſeldom known to laſt a fortnight or three weeks. In the centre of Germany, which is 200 leagues more to the ſouth, the winters are generally more ſe⯑vere, and the froſts ſharper than in the dioceſe of Ber⯑gen, which extends to the 63d. degree north, where the inhabitants wonder to read in the public papers of froſt and ſnow in Poland and Germany, at a time, when no ſuch weather is felt here. The harbours of Amſterdam, Hamburg, Copenhagen, and Lübeck, are frozen ten times oftener than ours; for with us, it is generally known not to happen two or three times in a whole century, and what is yet more extraordinary, when the harbour of Bergen is frozen, the Seine at Pa⯑ris, may be concluded to be in the ſame condition. Thus is our winter at Bergen ſo very moderate, that the ſeas are always open to fiſhermen and mariners; and, it is ſeldom that the bays and creeks are frozen over, except thoſe that reach far up the country, where they meet with keen and dry north-eaſt winds, blowing from the land. As far as the 80th. or 82d. degree, the north-ſea continues open and navigable, both win⯑ter [244] and ſummer, except in the creeks, and along the ſhores in Finmark, Iceland, and Greenland, from whence the large maſſes of ice being detached, are ſeen to float in the ſea.

The amazing difference of weather in the ſame lati⯑tude, which ariſes from natural cauſes, is according to the wiſe deſign of the Creator, requiſite for the well-being of the country; for the eaſtern parts require a hard winter for the ſubſiſtance of their inhabitants, to enable them to carry their goods a great way to mar⯑ket, and take back neceſſaries; whereas mild and open weather is no leſs neceſſary to the weſtern parts, where the inhabitants chiefly maintain themſelves by their ſea-fiſheries. It is expedient for them that the ſea ſhould be open during the whole winter, for, from the middle of January, herrings, ſcates, cods, &c. are chaſed by the whales towards the coaſts, when peaſants ſally out in multitudes from the creeks into the ſea, and thus procure a great part of their ſubſiſtance for the whole year, and ſeveral thouſands of the northern peaſants of both ſexes, during the months of January and February, paſs the whole day upon the open ſea, and only towards the approach of night betake them⯑ſelves to their huts, in the neighbouring iſlands. The mildneſs of the winter, is likewiſe neceſſary for curing and ſalting the fiſh, which in froſty weather would be ſpoiled and uſeleſs.

[245]After this account of the cold in Norway, it is pro⯑per to ſay ſomething of the heat. In the ſummer months it is not only warm, but hot to ſuch a degree, from the reflection of the mountains and other cauſes, that perſons who have been born and brought up in ſultry climates, might fancy themſelves ſuddenly tranſ⯑ported home. But theſe heats are of ſhort duration; were they of longer continuance, they would bring grapes, and other fruits and vegetables, to the like ex⯑quiſite perfection, as in other countries.

There cannot be a more deciſive proof of the ſum⯑mer's heat in Norway, than that ſeveral vegetables, and particularly barley, grow up and ripen, within ſix weeks or two months. It is certain, that where nature has but a ſhort time to work, ſhe accelerates her operations, and acts with greater energy. In our northern gardens, it is indeed ſeldom that the winter fruits can attain to their proper maturity, but thoſe of the ſummer, keep pace with the fruits of Denmark, where ſtrawberries, cherries and the like are ripe, ſo early as the firſt of July.

From theſe inſtances, it is but candour to admit, that however natural and laſting the cold may be in Norway, yet the impartial Sovereign of Nature has not ſo far neglected the inhabitants, but they may paſs their days agreeably; eſpecially, when the ſalubrity of the air is conſidered. In the middle of the country, [246] particularly about the mountains, the inhabitants have ſcarcely an idea of ſickneſs, unleſs it be hereditary or contracted by intemperance. It is reported, that in the vale of Gulbrand, which is regularly viſited by very ſalubrious gales, eſpecially in the pariſh of Laeſſoe, there are perſons of ſuch an extreme age, that from a wearineſs of life, they get themſelves removed elſe⯑where, in order to die the ſooner; that, farther, in the province of Valders, and in other parts, meal may be kept many years without any damage; a proof of the purity and dryneſs of the air. From this whole⯑ſomeneſs of the weather, medicine is very little under⯑ſtood, and practitioners in phyſic meet with very few patients, whilſt lawyers are never at a loſs for clients.

It is only in the chief towns that phyſicians are to be met with, where they are eſtabliſhed, as provincial practitioners, with a public ſalary; and, notwithſtand⯑ing this, have but little employ. In the populous city of Bergen, where there are 30,000 people, there are but two phyſicians, and theſe two are ſufficient.

There is a great deal of rain in Norway, occaſioned by the clouds preſſing againſt the mountains, and theſe frequent ſhowers are of great uſe to vegetables; for in a rocky ſoil, where the earth lies very ſhallow, was it not for this conſtant humidity, the crops would be burnt up. In the vale of Guldbrand, and other parts where the mountains are not ſteep and general, and of [247] courſe the rains not ſo frequent, water is conveyed into the fields by trenches, and thrown upon the cul⯑tivated lands by ſcoops, as is practiſed in Perſia, and other hot countries. The great mountain of File⯑field, makes a very remarkable difference in the wea⯑ther between it's two ſides; when it is fine weather on the eaſtern ſide, it ſhall not be ſo on the weſtern, & vice verſâ, for the courſe of air, when impelled againſt the higheſt mountains is checked, ſeldom aſcending high enough to paſs over them. And this is not un⯑common in other mountainous countries, for we are informed, in Paul Van Caarden's voyage to the Eaſt-Indies, that whilſt the ſummer ſeaſon laſts, from cape Cormarin, to the coaſt of Coromandel, it is winter during that time, from Diu to the aforeſaid cape. In like manner, on one ſide of the mountain called Gates, or Ballagates, the fields are cloathed in their verdure, and the country appears in all the gaiety and luxuri⯑ancy of ſummer, whilſt on the other, it is covered with fogs and rain.

In the northern and eaſtern parts of Norway, the ſnows are very thick, and lie long on the ground; but, in this reſpect, are very beneficial to the peaſants, enabling them, as we obſerved before, to tranſport their commodities to diſtant markets. In travelling over the ſnow, they make uſe of Truviers, (a kind of ſnow-ſhoes, broad and round, made of withies, keep⯑ing the feet from ſinking in the ſnow,) and ſometimes [248] they are obliged to cover their horſes feet with the ſame. They have another contrivance for travelling on the ſnow, which are long and thin pieces of board, fixed to the feet, ſo ſmooth, that the peaſants will ſlide with them over the ſnow, with the expedition of ſhips under full ſail. Theſe are the ſcates which the Lap⯑landers uſe, and which we deſcribed in our account of that country. They are here called Skies. In time of war, a corps of four or ſix hundred of theſe ſkie-men are very ſerviceable as light troops, for reconnoitring, procuring intelligence, or for any ſudden enterprize; no place being inacceſſible to them, and they being always ſure of coming upon the enemy by ſurprize. Though the ſnow has it's advantages, it has alſo it's inconveniences; among theſe, the greateſt is the Snee-fond, that is, when a maſs of ſnow, falling from a mountain top, ſhall overwhelm both men and cattle, and demoliſh houſes. A century or two ago, (for the preciſe time is not certainly known,) a whole pariſh, ſituate between Quindherret and Hardanger, was wholly covered by a ſnow-fall, and ſo remains to this day; the ſnow, which had fallen from the adjacent mountains, not diſſolving the year after, was gradually increaſed and hardened by lying, the ſituation being high, and hemmed in among the mountains, ſomething like the famous Eis-blinc, in Greenland, of which we have given a deſcription and plate, in our account of [249] that country. Many lives were loſt in that diſaſter, of which no memorial would remain, were not the truth of the ſtory, which was at firſt much doubted, ſtill confirmed by ſeveral utenſils, ſuch as ſciſſars, knives, baſons, &c. brought to light by a rivulet, which runs under the ſnow; an inconteſtible evidence, that this ſpot was formerly clear of ſnow, and inhabited. Ex⯑perience ſilences all cavils on this head, the ſnow being known, by age, to become ſo firm and indurated, that a horſe's ſhoe makes no impreſſion on it; and, as it yields very gradually to the ſun, it is thus ſparingly diſpenſed for the daily benefit of the inhabitants in the vales, ex⯑cept in a damp ſoutherly wind, which penetrating the ſnow, the mountains pore down whole torrents. Theſe accumulated ſnows thus become conſtant ſprings for promoting vegetation in the open grounds below, and when theſe ſprings are too early exhauſted, the graſs and corn inevitably ſuffer, and are ſometimes withered for want of moiſture. Theſe currents, likewiſe, by their impetuous deſcent, drive great numbers of little mills, every farm-houſe having it's own mill. Ano⯑ther advantage ariſing from theſe ſnows, is, that cattle which, in ſummer-time, are turned out upon the mountains for paſture, are ſo extremely tormented with heat, muſketoes and gnats, that they run about regardleſs of danger, and in this frenzy, many have loſt their lives, falling down the precipices; which lays the peaſants under a neceſſity, where no ſnow is near, of erecting ſheltering places for the cattle; but [250] if any ſnow-hill be in ſight, the cattle move towards it, knowing that they ſhall there be relieved, by the coolneſs which it communicates to the air. A fur⯑ther remarkable inſtance of divine goodneſs in this caſe is, that juſt as far as the ſnow melts, and runs from the mountains, the very beſt graſs is obſerved to grow, and in the greateſt plenty.

The wind in this country is generally ſoutherly; ſeldom directly weſt, but ſometimes ſouth-weſt or ſouth-eaſt; a north, north-weſt, and particularly a north north-eaſt wind, are little known here, but when they do blow, they verify the words of Solomon. "The north-wind driveth away rain." Eaſt-winds are here temperate, and bring dry weather, whereas, ſouth-winds bring rain. The inhabitants of the large province of Nord-land, who, in not leſs than 200 barks viſit Bergen every year, at the fair and aſſizes, and moſt of whom have a hundred leagues to ſail, are often favoured with north and ſouth-winds, like regu⯑lar trade-winds, though not ſo infallibly to be de⯑pended on.

Beſides theſe regular winds, the coaſt is ſubject to water-ſpouts, and alſo to Field-flagers, or mountain-ſqualls, that is, guſts from the land; by which, with⯑out the utmoſt precaution, a veſſel is ſuddenly loſt, in the ſecurity of fine and calm weather. But the real hurricanes or whirlwinds, are known to be extremely [251] dangerous to ſhips, by their ſudden and rapid vortexes, which throw the ſea at a ſmall diſtance into ſuch an agitation, that the water in drops flies up into the air like ſmoke. The common people from an old ſu⯑perſtition, call them Ganſkud, conceiting, that a ne⯑cromancer of Fin-Lapland, has then ſent out his Ganfly, to do miſchief. Theſe are ſmall flies which the Lap⯑land magicians preſerve to deceive the people in this particular, and which the reader may find a further ac⯑count in our deſcription of that country.

As the mountains of Norway conſiſt, in general, of rocks intermixed with quarries of marble, free-ſtone, ſlate, &c. which towards the ſea are almoſt ſtripped of earth, by the force of the winds, and further up in the country, are covered indeed with earth, but not more than a few yards deep, and often leſs; one would be apt to think, that below this ſlender covering, the whole kingdom of Norway is but one ſolid ſtone, only of a different nature, figure and height. But the error of ſuch a concluſion is evident, not only from the many deep creeks running up the country, but freſh-water lakes, ſwamps and fens, in ſome of which, though ſounded with lines of ſeveral hundred fathoms, no bottom has ever been found. And add to this, that however mountainous and craggy Norway is thought to be, yet it affords many champaign, well-cultivated tracts of land, of ſix, eight, or ten leagues in extent. The mountains are ſo extenſive, that to paſs them, a [252] man muſt ſometimes travel 50 miles. To paſs Har⯑danger, he muſt travel 70 miles, and the rivers and cataracts which interſect theſe dreadful precipices, and are paſſable only by ſlight tottering wooden bridges, render travelling in this country very terrible and dangerous.

Swamps and marſhes lie both on the ridges of the mountains, and in the vallies, at the foot of the ſteepeſt precipices; theſe, in many places, render the ways very unſafe, being paſſible only in the drieſt ſum⯑mer months, and ſometimes not even then; unleſs as is the caſe, a kind of cauſeway is formed over them at the public charge, with thouſands of logs and large pieces of timber laid acroſs the marſh, which are ſoon rotten. In theſe places the ground is as ſoft as dough, yielding and moving under the foot; there being pro⯑bably beneath theſe marſhes, an abyſs of ſtanding water, which is thus weakly vaulted over. Near Laeſſoe, in the dioceſe of Chriſtianſand, this kind of timber cauſeway is carried on for near a mile, and if a horſe, or much leſs animal, happens to make the leaſt wrong ſtep, he ſinks beyond recovery. The earth indeed here, as in many other countries, ſeems to have a vegeta⯑tive or ſelf-renewing power, for there are a great many peat bogs, in which bodies of large firs and pines, which the turpentine has preſerved, are found, ſome yards under ground; which ſhews the earth to have been gradually filled, and as it were grown up from [253] a mixture of leaves, twigs, moſs, reeds and the like. That entire ſkeleton of a whale, accidentally found in 1687, in Tiſtedale, near Frederickſhall, is a further proof of the ſame. It was found buried with earth and ſand, 240 feet under ground.

Over Filefield is the high poſt road, and the way is marked all along with poſts, at two or three hundred paces diſtance, that in ſnowy or dark weather, the tra⯑veller may not loſe himſelf in theſe deſart wilds, where no living creature is to be met with, except here and there, a few wild rein-deer.

In ſome meaſure to refreſh and relieve the traveller, two mountain-ſtoves or reſting houſes, are maintained on Filefield, at the public charge, and three on Do⯑frefield, and furniſhed with fire, light and kitchen uten⯑ſils. There is but one way of avoiding this chain of mountains, in the road from Sweden to Nordenfields; and that is in a hollow, where it ſeems interrupted by a long and deep valley, reaching from Romſdale to Gulbrandſdale, and this low road many prefer in their journies from the highlands to the ſea-coaſts, or to Romſdale market. It was in their march, through this long defile, that a body of 1000 Scotch, ſent over in 1612, as auxiliaries to the Swedes, were put to the ſword by the peaſants of Gulbrand, who never give quarter. Theſe precipices and narrow paſſes are the beſt fortifications in the world.

[256]In many of the mountains in this country are vaſt cavities; in that of Torghatten, in the diſtrict of Hel⯑geland, which ſtands out in the ſea, is a large hole quite through it, about half way up, poſſibly through⯑out; 150 ells in height, and 3000 in length, through which the ſun may be ſeen. On the top of this moun⯑tain is a piece of water or reſervoir, the ſize of a mo⯑derate fiſh-pond. The rain-water which gathers there trickles down it's ſides, through fiſſures and cracks. In it's lower part is a cave, full of rugged windings, in which a line of 400 fathoms, was dropped out of curioſity to meaſure it's hiatus, but no bottom could be found.

In the mountain of Dolſteen, there is alſo a won⯑derful cavern, ſimilar to that in the Peak of Derby⯑ſhire; it's entrance is twelve feet broad, and ſix feet high. No ſooner are you entered, but it's breadth and height increaſes, to the dimenſions of a large church, the ſides of which are perpendicular, and the roof vaulted. About the middle, there is a deſcent, like ſteps, which leads ſo low, that thoſe who are within, hear the daſhing of the waters, (for it joins the ſea,) over their heads. There are more ſteps that lead ſtill lower, but no one has found himſelf couragious enough to venture further; ſtones have often been thrown down, and the echo of their fall has continued for a minute; but whether it fell into water or on rock, could never be diſtinguiſhed. The length of this ca⯑vern [257] may be judged of, by two candles being burnt out, in going through it and returning.

In the diſtrict of Evindvig, ſix leagues north of Bergen, in a place called Steneſund, is a mountain, whoſe ſides, for a great height from the water, and for half a quarter of a league next the ſea, abound with ſuch petrified bodies, as are ſought for in the cabinet of virtuoſos: many kinds of Cornua Hammonis, large and ſmall ſnakes, muſcles, worms, inſects, and many others. This cannot be called a Luſus naturae, appear⯑ing as it were, to have been impreſſed into a paſte or dough, and no rational enquirer can entertain any doubt, that the rock was once as ſoft as dough, when theſe bodies were intermixed with it; this, with other circumſtances confirms the opinion, that rocks in ge⯑neral were once in a ſoft ſtate, but petrified by time.

In the highlands of Norway, the villages cannot be ſo large, compact and convenient, as in other parts; but, the houſes lie ſcattered among the vallies, gene⯑rally at half a quarter of a league's diſtance. In ſome places, as in the creeks of Ulland and Nordal, the peaſants houſes ſtand ſo high, and on the edge of ſuch a ſteep precipice, that ladders are fixed to climb up to them, ſo that when a prieſt is ſent for, who is unac⯑quainted with the road, he riſks his life, and more ſo in the winter. In ſuch places, a corpſe muſt be let down with ropes, or be brought on men's backs before it is [258] laid in the coffin. The mail likewiſe in winter, muſt, at ſome diſtance from Bergen, be drawn up over the ſteepeſt mountains. Theſe things, with the difficult roads, owing to the narrow paſſes on the mountains' ſides; the ſudden riſing of the rivers, which muſt be either waded through or croſſed on ruinous bridges; the eaſt clefts in the rocks occaſionally covered over with ſnow, and in which ſometimes a traveller or ani⯑mal is loſt; the ſhelter theſe mountains give, by their cavities, to beaſts of prey, and the breaking and falling of eminences, to the deſtruction of houſes and cattle below, are the inconveniences attending ſuch a coun⯑try; but, when the reverſe of the picture is contem⯑plated, we ſhall have reaſon to adore the beneficent Creator, who, withholding from mankind ſome bene⯑fits, is pleaſed to beſtow on him others.

Where a ſheep or goat chance to make a falſe ſtep and fall into a projection, called a mountain-hammer, from whence it can neither get higher or lower, a pea⯑ſant will chearfully venture his life for it, and, deſcend⯑ing from the top of a mountain, by a rope of ſome hundred fathoms, will ſling himſelf on a croſs-ſtick, till he can get his foot on the place where his goat is, when he faſtens it to the rope, and it is drawn up with himſelf. But the moſt amazing circumſtance ſays Pon⯑toppidan, is, that he will run this riſk with the aſſiſtance only of a ſingle perſon, who holds the end of the rope, or faſtens it to a ſtone, if there be one at hand; for [259] though one man cannot draw up the weight of another with the addition of a ſheep, ſtill, as the man let down, can help himſelf by the craggs of the rock, it is eaſily effected. There are inſtances of the aſſiſtant him⯑ſelf having been dragged down and ſacrificing his life in fidelity to his friend, on which occaſion both have periſhed. Of theſe melancholy and not unfre⯑quent accidents, of a man or a beaſt falling ſome hun⯑dred fathoms from the precipices, it is obſerved, that the reſiſtance of the air, againſt the falling body, is ſo great, that they are not only ſuffocated and deprived of life, long before they reach the ground, but their bellies burſt, and their entrails guſh out. This circum⯑ſtance throws a light on an obſcure paſſage in the New Teſtament, Acts 1. 18. ‘falling headlong, he burſt aſunder in the midſt.’

Where part of a mountain breaks away, and falls down on the country; if the pieces are but ſmall, the damage is but ſlight; but ſometimes, though not often, entire creſts of rocks, ſome hundred fathoms in length and breadth have fallen; which occaſion a violent agi⯑tation in the air, and has all the appearance of a pre⯑lude to the general deſtruction of the world. When they fall into a creek or any deep water, the fragments are out of ſight, but their ſubmerſion cauſes ſuch an agitation of the water, as to overflow and carry away the adjacent houſes.

[260]Beſides the collecting of clouds and diſſolving them in rain, which mountains do; beſides their maſſes of ſnow, reſervoirs and ſprings, which ſend down large and ſmall currents of water, fertilizing the lands below, and turning as we obſerved, infinite number of mills; it is well known, that though the ſurface of theſe mountains are too hard to be ploughed, they af⯑ford large and excellent paſturage, and the property of the northern peaſants, in oxen, ſheep, goats, &c. would be conſiderably reduced, were it not for the ſpacious range here met with. Mountainous countries may alſo be conſidered as the ſtore-houſes or treaſuries of Pro⯑vidence, where are laid up, and from whence he kindly diſpenſes, according to the exigencies of the world, in every age, thoſe metals and minerals which are be⯑come ſo indiſpenſable in human life, and the want of which, as a medium in commerce, obliges ſome nations to exchange their commodities for a bit of iron. Nor⯑way, till a century and a half ago, appears from all accounts to have wrought but few mines; conſe⯑quently, the country contained treaſures out of know⯑ledge. Since that time, matters are ſo improved by the aſſiſtance of German miners, that the ſilver, cop⯑per and iron mines, in Norway, have produced to the amount of ſeveral millions. The mountains here are natural fortreſſes, for as a long chain of them divides two kingdoms, the Norway peaſants, who are excellent markſmen, poſt themſelves in time of war on the ſteep inacceſſible rocks, where, animated purely by a zeal [261] for their country, they gall the enemy incredibly, and in the defiles or narrow paſſes, a handful of men will keep off a numerous army. And theſe natural fortifi⯑cations are alſo an ornament to the country, affording the moſt delightful contraſts in the diverſity of it's proſpects. Nature has been more profuſely laviſh of her favours to the ſituation of ſome farm-houſes here, than to moſt royal palaces in other countries, though aſſiſted with all the embelliſhments of groves, terraces, caſcades, canals, and the like. Some trading places, as Bragneſs, and others, are charmingly ſituated be⯑tween mountains, at the mouth of rivers; and, ſo de⯑lightful is the ſituation of the diſtrict of Waas, ſome leagues caſtward of Bergen, that it has been called the northern Italy: certainly to one, who deſires no more than a regular aſſemblage of the beauties of nature, (though of mere nature,) there cannot be a more en⯑chanting proſpect; for all the buildings in it, are Wang church, the parſonage, and a few farm-houſes ſcattered on different eminences. But the beauty of the proſpect is much heightened by two uniform mountains, gradually riſing in the ſame proportions, to a vaſt height; betwixt which runs a valley, near half a league in breadth, and a river ſometimes ſpreading into little lakes, and ſometimes precipitating itſelf down the rocks, in foaming and ſonorous caſcades. On both ſides, it is bordered with the fineſt meads, in⯑termingled with little thickets; and the eaſy declivities of the verdant mountains, covered with fruitful fields, [262] and farm-houſes, ſtanding above each other in a ſuc⯑ceſſion of natural terraces, meet the eye with rapture. Between theſe, a ſtately foreſt preſents itſelf to view, and beyond that, the tops of mountains covered with perpetual ſnow, and ſtill, beyond theſe, ten or twelve dreams iſſuing from ſnow-clad ſummits, form an agree⯑able contraſt, in their meanders along the blooming ſides of the mountains, till they loſe themſelves in the rivers beneath.

Having ſaid ſo much of the land, it is proper to give ſome account of the waters. The coaſts of Nor⯑way are waſhed, for three hundred leagues, by a part of the north or great Atlantic ſea, which by very nar⯑row channels, forms a multitude of iſlands, ſome from three to nine leagues in length, and not barren; but moſt of them ſo ſmall, as to be inhabited only by a few fiſhermen and pilots, who keep a ſmall ſtock of cattle, which they ſend out for paſture to the neareſt little iſlands, rocks and ſheers. Theſe ſheers are little more than large rocks, or a kind of ſtone columns, founded in the bottom of the ſea, the heads or capitals of which, ſcarce riſe higher than ſome fathoms above the waves. There are a million or more of theſe, and the whole weſtern coaſt of Norway is defended by them; for no naval power will dare venture within them, without a pilot of the country, and even then they are in danger from the leaſt ſtorm, which here gives no warning; in ſo much, that in an inſtant, [263] unleſs they have the good fortune to ſecure themſelves in a ſafe harbour, they may be daſhed to pieces in the creeks, which are all encloſed with ſteep rocks. This coaſt, indeed, affords a great many and good harbours, which few other maritime countries can boaſt of. To prevent the danger, ariſing from the winds and currents in theſe ſtraits, by order of government, many hundred of large iron rings are fixed in the rocks, more than two fathoms above water, as moorings for the ſhips, where there is not room for them, or where is no an⯑chorage; for the Norway ſhore is level, or gradually aſcending in a very few places, but generally ſo ſteep and angular, that cloſe to the rocks, the ſea is from one hundred to three hundred fathoms deep. There are ſand-banks further off at ſea, from ten to fifteen fathoms deep, which are the daily rendezvous of all ſorts of fiſh.

From the ſea, ſeveral large and ſmall creeks run ſix, eight, or ten leagues up the country, moſt of them a hundred fathoms deep on the banks, and more than four hundred in the middle, where fiſh are caught in great abundance. In Floge creek, about five miles from Drontheim, a line of 1000 fathoms would not reach the bottom; ſo that the ſea here is thought to have an opening or communication with the immeaſur⯑able abyſs.

[264]Among other ſingular things, there is a freſh-water river near Gaarden Stafseng, on Helgeland, in which turbot, and other ſea-fiſh is ſometimes caught, though this river has not the leaſt viſible communication with the ſea; but, it muſt have it by ſome ſubterraneous paſſage.

There is a remarkable property in the water of the north ſea, namely, an oilineſs or fatneſs, which, when a ſhip is on fire, ſo far from extinguiſhing it, encreaſes the flame. This oilineſs has probably ſome connexion with it's effulgence and ſcintillations, for when the water is ſtirred by rowing or otherwiſe, it ap⯑pears on fire. This hitherto inexplicable phaenomenon, has been illuſtrated in the beſt manner, by a little piece, publiſhed at Venice, called Nuovo Scoperto intorno di luci Notturne dell' aqua Marina, which though our purpoſe is not to enter far into Natural Hiſtory, as it may entertain our readers, we will give the author's account of it. Having obſerved, that in the gulph of Venice, the water is luminous only from the beginning of ſummer, till the end of harveſt, and that this light is moſt copious, in places abound⯑ing with ſea-graſs; and ſtill more, when the water is put in motion; in 1746, he filled a flaſk with it, and carried it home, but it emitted no light, except that it ſparkled when ſtirred in the dark. Straining the water through a cloſe fine cloth, the cloth ſhone in the dark, but not the water, though ſhaken or ſtirred. Having [265] ſome time after procured a microſcope, he gathered ſome ſea-graſs, which is moſt apt to glitter in the night, examined it in a dark place, and diſcerned above thirty of theſe lucid particles on one ſingle leaf. He ſhook this graſs over a ſheet of paper, and one of theſe parti⯑cles fell off, it was as ſubtile as an eye-laſh, about as long, and it's colour, a black yellow. On examining it with a microſcope, he plainly found it to be a living worm, or annular maggot, conſiſting of eleven wings, and as many mamillae or teats on the ſides, inſtead of feet, and both at the head and rump, four antennae or feelers, like the horns of a ſnail. In the proſecu⯑tion of his reſearches, he found that all theſe lucid ap⯑pearances in the water, aroſe from theſe minute and and almoſt inviſible maggots, whoſe whole bodies were lucid, though when at reſt, their refulgence was con⯑ſiderably fainter. In ſpring, theſe animalculae conſine themſelves to the ſea-graſs, but in ſummer, they are diſperſed all over the ſea, and moſtly on the ſurface. This experiment puts it beyond all doubt, that the glittering of the ſea in a ſhip's courſe, is occaſioned by theſe worms, From this experiment, ſays Pontoppidan, I am of opinion, that thoſe lambent flames, which by hovering in the night about a ſhip's rigging, ſtrike terror into the ſeamen, and the Ignis fatui or jack-a lanthorn, which deceives the traveller by land, are of the ſame kind.

[266]In the 68th degree, near the iſland Moſkoe, is ano⯑ther ſingular thing. The current between that iſland and the next, is ſo rapid and violent, that it's roarings exceed thoſe of a cataract, and are heard at a great diſtance. They continue without intermiſſion, except for a quarter of an hour in every ſix hours, that is, at the time of high and low water, when it's impetuoſity is at a ſtand; at this time, fiſhermen can venture in, but this motion ſoon returns, and however calm the ſea may be, gradually increaſes, and runs back with ſuch a draught and whirling vortex, as to ſuck in whatever comes within it's ſphere of motion, and keep it under water for ſome hours, when the fragments, ſhivered by the rocks, appear again. This and three other vortices, among the Ferroe iſlands, (which are about twenty-four in number, belong to the crown of Denmark, but add little to it's revenue, lie about 12 degrees weſt of Norway, four degrees north-eaſt of Shetland, and contain about 4000 inhabitants.) Theſe vortices, have no other cauſe than the colliſion of the waves riſing and falling, at the flux and reflux, againſt a ridge of rocks, which confines the water, ſo that it precipitates itſelf like a cataract. Thus, the higher the flood, the deeper muſt be the fall, and the natural reſult of this is, a whirl-pool or vortex. This whirl-pool at Moſkoe, is called Moſkoe-ſtrom, and by navigators, the navel of the ſea. When the ſea is agitated by a ſtorm, it is dangerous to come within five miles of it. Perhaps it is hardly in the power of fancy [267] to conceive a ſituation of more horror, than of being thus driven forward, by the ſudden violence of an im⯑petuous torrent, to the vortex of a whirl-pool, of which the noiſe and turbulence, ſtill encreaſing as it is approached, are an earneſt of quick and inevitable deſtruction; while the wretched victims, in an agony of deſpair and terror, cry out for that help which they know to be impoſſible, and ſee before them the dread abyſs, into which they are about to be plunged, and daſhed among the rocks at the bottom. Large ſtocks of firs and pine-trees, after being abſorbed by the current, riſe again, broken and torn to ſuch a de⯑gree, as if briſtles grew on them. This plainly ſhews, that the bottom conſiſts of craggy rocks, among which they are whirled to and fro. It happens frequently, that whales come too near the ſtream, and are over-powered by it's violence; when it is impoſſible to de⯑ſcribe their howlings and bellowings in their fruitleſs ſtruggles to diſengage themſelves.

The freſh-water ſprings of Norway are uncommonly good; ſo, that the common people, who live more upon water than wine, or other ſtrong liquors, hold out to a very advanced age. Some of the lakes in this country are ſo extenſive, that in former times, ac⯑cording to the hiſtory of Norway, fleets have been fitted out, and wars carried on in theſe inland ſeas. In ſome of them are floating iſlands, or parcels of land, about 30 or 40 ells in length, with trees growing on [268] them, which, having been ſeparated from the main⯑land, are driven about, as the wind ſets, and when cloſe to the ſhore, are ſhoved off with a pole. They are ſaid to grow, as it were, by the acceſſion of reeds, graſs, weeds and the like. This may be wonderful, but not ſo much ſo, as what is called the Mardyne, which, as I am told, ſays Pontoppidan, is frequently met with in the ſalt-water creeks; theſe are level clods, compoſed of ſea-graſs, twigs, and the foam of the ſea, upon which fiſhermen ſay, certain ſea-fowls lay their eggs. If this be matter of fact, it muſt be acknow⯑ledged another inſtance of the wiſe diſpoſition of the Creator.

At any great diſtance from the ſea, the rivers of Norway are not navigable for a veſſel of any conſi⯑derable burden, on account of the number of water⯑falls, from the height of ſix to ten fathoms; but they ſerve to convey large timber, by floating it. The owners mark theſe timbers, and truſt them to the cur⯑rent; and, at places where they wiſh them to be con⯑veyed to, large booms fortified with iron bolts are laid acroſs the river to ſtop them; theſe are called Lentzs. Here they are brought a-ſhore, and the perſons who have the care of theſe Lentzs, know to whom each piece belongs by it's mark, and is paid for the care taken of it. The water-falls are every where uſed for working ſaw-mills, where with little labour, planks and boards are ſawed out to all dimenſions.

[269]Theſe water-falls, however, are not without their in⯑conveniences. The Gule, which has it's riſe in a mountain in the north, near Skarsfield, in the year 1344, to the aſtoniſhment of the country, ſeemed to⯑tally drained, whereas it had only buried itſelf under ground, from whence it again burſt forth with ſuch violence, that the earth and ſtones, thrown up by the eruption, filled the valley and made a kind of dam, which however was broke through, and waſhed away by the force of the water. On this occaſion, beſides ſome churches, 48 farm-houſes were deſtroyed, and 250 perſons drowned.

Another inſtance of this kind, ſtill more wonderful, happened in 1702. This was the ſudden immerſion of the family ſeat of Borge, near Frederickſtad, into a deep abyſs, the particulars of which are as follow. In the night of the fifth of February, that ſuperb edi⯑fice, together with every thing in it, ſunk down into an abyſs of a hundred fathom deep, and the gap was inſtantaneouſly filled up by a piece of water, between three and four hundred ells long, and of half the breadth. The houſe was doubly walled, but of theſe, as well as ſeveral high towers, not the leaſt trace was to be ſeen. With it periſhed fourteen people, and 200 head of cattle. Lord and Lady Woernſekiold, the owners of the houſe, two children, and the ſteward had the good fortune to eſcape. The lady, being then near her time, was attended by a midwife, who, in [270] great conſternation, came to acquaint them, that the houſe and ground began to give way, on which, they immediately croſſed the water to a ſeat of her lord's brother, where the next day ſhe was delivered. The cauſe of this cataſtrophe, was no other than the river Glomen, which is the largeſt in Norway, precipitating itſelf down the water-fall, near Sarp, had probably for a long time, in it's ſubterraneous concealment, un⯑dermined the foundation. A like inſtance happened in Switzerland, in 1618, when the whole town of Pleurs, ſuddenly ſunk, in and was never ſeen after⯑wards.

CHAP. II. Of the Productions of Norway.

NORWAY is almoſt every where ſo unfit for agriculture, though not for paſture, that the proportion of ploughed ground, with reſpect to the meadows, woods and mountains, is not above one in eighty; and, if the peaſants were not conſiderably aſ⯑ſiſted, by the great fiſheries, the timber and charcoal for the mines, grazing, and the liberty they have of [271] killing game, the country could not be ſuppoſed to furniſh ſubſiſtance for above half the inhababitants. Another misfortune is, their pernicious night-froſts: for, in ſome parts of the moſt fruitful provinces, the grain is ſubject to miſcarry by ſudden froſts; ſo, that one day it ſhall ſeem fine and flouriſhing, and the next, owing to the nipping cold of one night, ſhall be deſtroyed. But when the lands are capable of culti⯑vation, they are ſo prolific, as to produce from ſix to ten-fold, and never lie fallow. The grounds, in parch⯑ed ſeaſons, are always watered with ſcoops, as they wet the ſails of a ſhip, by means of aqueducts, carried on by hollowed timbers from the neareſt ſpring to the field; and from the land's lying warm, being ſheltered by the mountains; though the ſeed-time is late, the harveſt is forward, and farmers generally have their corn in, nine weeks from the time of ſowing.

Though the farmer in Norway does not toil in the fields of an oppreſſive lord, nor is obliged to give the tenths of his crop to ſupport the clergy, but the fruits of his labour are his abſolute and certain property, yet, agriculture here is attended with great difficulty and inconvenience, the fields conſiſting, in general, of lit⯑tle ſpots of ground among the rocks, many of which muſt be dug inſtead of being ploughed, and all their grain is reaped. When made into ſheaves, a great number of poles, 15 or 16 feet long are ſtuck up in the field, and ſix or eight ſheaves are hung at certain [272] diſtances on each pole, ſo that ſeveral days rain, if it ſhould fall, would be ſoon exhaled or diſcharged, and then the corn is houſed, not with waggons, but on ſledges, except in ſome places in the frontiers, where waggons have with difficulty been introduced; for ſo prejudiced are the Norway peaſants, and ſo tenacious of the uſages tranſmitted to them by their fore-fa⯑thers, that they will adopt no new cuſtoms, though better than the old ones; nor will they venture to re⯑move a ſtone which their fathers had ſuffered to lie. This ruſtic bigotry, which more or leſs prevails every where, is a great obſtruction to public utility, coun⯑teracting all improvements in huſbandry, the peaſants here being more inclined to become fiſhermen and the like, than to clear and improve their lands. This error, however, gradually loſes ground, and an enquiry is now made for ſpots proper for ſowing, ſtones begin to be removed, and fens and moraſſes drained by covered trenches. In clearing the foreſt or wood ground, they proceed in the following manner. Having felled the timber, they leave it on the ground two years to dry, at the end of which time, they ſet fire to it, generally about Midſummer, but when the clouds promiſe rain. The wood being burnt as much as poſſible, the greater pieces quenched, and the leſſer, together with the ſur⯑face of the ſoil, the moſs and ſmall roots being redu⯑ced to aſhes, without ſtaying till the earth grows cool, they ſow rye on the aſhes, ſtill ſo hot, that the ſeed cracks, ſnaps, and denotes that the huſks are ſplit. [273] They wait then for rain to ſoak them; and if this happens, the peaſant may ſet down in the certain proſ⯑pect of ſuch an exuberant rye-harveſt, as will ſcarce appear credible, yet nevertheleſs true, for without ſome extroardinary accident, a ſingle buſhel of burnt rye, will produce from 50 to 80 buſhels; which is cer⯑tainly the effect of a concentration of the vegetative ſpirit in the aſhes, which before it can evaporate, im⯑pregnates the grain with ſuch wonderful fecundity. But theſe conflagrations ſometimes do a great deal of miſchief, for the knops of the pines, will ſhoot along the air like rockets, and have been known to ſet fire to houſes, at a conſiderable diſtance. And when the firſt froſts ſeizes the green wood, it is not only violent, from the turpentine, but attended with a boiſterous wind, and dreadful roarings.

All ſorts of grain are produced in this country, and their paſturages or meadows are ſo liberally bleſt, as not only to equal other countries, but to ſurpaſs many. Farmers keep a great number of cows, and fat ſo many cattle, that they export a great deal of butter and tallow. When ſeed-time is over, and the people can be ſpared, they drive their cattle to the mountains, which, at that ſeaſon, afford ſufficient fod⯑der; for the ſnow is no ſooner melted, than the graſs appears ſeven or eight inches high, grown under the ſnow. If the diſtance of this paſturage be not more than five miles, the milk is brought home twice a day, [274] but if the diſtance be ten or fifteen miles, they erect huts, here a maid-ſervant conſtantly lives, for the ſecurity of the cattle againſt the wild-beaſts, who generally fly from ſuch a weak keeper. This maid is employed in making butter and cheeſe, which ſhe brings home once or twice a week.

In moſt places, they cut their graſs for hay, with ſcythes, but in ſome, reap it with a ſickle, and to dry it, hang it on a fence made with ſtakes, fixed upright and croſſed with poles.

All kinds of eſculent and garden vegetables are found here in gardens, as in other countries. There is a kind of northern turnep, called Naper, which is ſold in the cities in great quantities; they are ſometimes very large, as flat as a diſh, and a ſingle one has been known to weigh 27lb.

There are here alſo, a great variety of medicinal herbs and flowers, and ſome noxious ones, and many wholeſome and palatable berries, peculiar to the coun⯑try. With reſpect to fruits; grapes, peaches, and apricots do not ripen well here, but plumbs do; but as to apples, pears and cherries, they are met with every where.

Though in the article of fruit-trees, Norway muſt be acknowledged inferior to moſt countries in Europe, [275] yet this deficiency is moſt liberally compenſated in the bleſſings of it's inexhauſtible foreſts. In moſt provin⯑ces, immenſe ſums are received from foreigners for maſts, beams, planks, &c. not to mention the home⯑conſumption for houſes, built entirely with wood, beam upon beam; ſhips, bridges, moles, piles, fuel, &c. likewiſe for the infinite number of founderies, which require ſuch prodigious quantities of ſmall-coal; beſides the quantity felled, and burned to clear and manure the land; and, alſo the number of young trees uſed by the peaſants, as fences to their gardens, houſes, &c. Theſe and all other circumſtances conſidered, want of wood in Norway, muſt have been at leaſt as great, as the preſent abundance of it in moſt provinces, had not nature endued the ſoil, even in the moſt barren moun⯑tains, with a moſt ſingular fecundity in the ſponta⯑neous production of trees; an evidence of which are the many ſhoots from the ſmalleſt fiſſures of the rocks, which thrive much better, than when carefully planted in a good ſoil. So much is exported, that ſometimes ſuch piles of it are ſeen in the ports, like little mountains, that one would imagine it muſt re⯑quire a long time to remove them; whereas a ſingle embarkation for England, Holland, France or Spain, in a few days, ſweeps them all away; a few weeks, however, cover the quays again. The ſaw-works are the beſt manufacture in Norway, an infinite num⯑ber of families getting a comfortable maintenance from them, together with the felling and floating of timber. [276] The tenth of all ſawed timber belongs to the crown of Denmark, to which Norway is ſubject, and makes a conſiderable branch of the revenue. The vaſt, thick foreſts, every where ſeem to remove any apprehenſions of the country's being in want of common timber; but as to fir-trees and oaks, it is to be feared, poſterity will be at ſome loſs for them, unleſs the foreſt-laws are more ſtrictly executed, and young trees forbidden to be exported. To give the reader an idea of the va⯑lue of a ſhip's maſt, we muſt tell him, that a choice maſt tree, which when ſtanding, ſhall be eſtimated at 100 rix-dollars, or about 22l. 10s. Engliſh, cannot, after it is cut down, be conveyed to the ſea-ports, for leſs than double the prime coſt; for, beſides the many other trees required to form a kind of bed for it to ſlide on, leſt it ſhould be injured by the rocks, ſome⯑times a hundred trees and upwards muſt be felled to make way for it, and labourers are employed to hawl it in places impaſſible for horſes. The red fir, will ſtand ſeveral hundred years; the farm-houſe of Naes, in Gulbrandſdale, in which king Oluf lodged, in 1022, when he took a circuit round the kingdom, is now ſtanding, (1750,) and from the roots of fir-trees, the peaſants extract tar, even a hundred years after the trunk has been cut down. This tar is a very profitable com⯑modity, and the London diſpenſaries are covetous of having it from Nordſiord, in this country.

[277]The Norway ſea affords both red and white coral, and the mountains, a great variety of marble, ſpar or glittering ſtones, talk, alabaſter, chalkſtone, mill⯑ſtone, ſlate, and the like. Marble, which in moſt countries is ſo ſcarce, and bought up at ſo great a price, is found here in ſeveral places, and in ſuch quantities, that if all Europe were to be ſupplied from hence, the quarries would not be exhauſted. That wonderful ſubſtance, the magnet or loadſtone, is found here in ſuch quantities, that ſome tons of it are exported annually to Amſterdam. Here is alſo the abeſtos, or cotton-ſtone, found in the pariſh of Waldens, which makes linen or paper, that will not burn. But what is moſt ſingular, that in this country, thus abound⯑ing in ſtones, there ſhould be no flints. Thoſe uſed in fire-arms, are imported from Denmark or Germany. The mineral mountains, however, produce the quartz fire-ſtone, and a number of chryſtals, which they call mountain-drops, as they are found hanging on the mountains, in the ſhape of grapes, and other indeter⯑minate figures. Some of them reſemble diamonds ſo much, that a certain officer of reputation, in the diſ⯑trict of Hardanger, a few years ago, ſent two ſtones found there, to London, in order to have them made into a pair of ear-rings for his lady, when the merchant, to whom he had given the commiſſion, called upon the lapidary for them, he was aſked what he looked upon thoſe ſtones to be? The merchant anſwered Nor⯑way Chryſtals, then, replied the lapidary, give me a [278] note of hand, that they ſhall not be paſſed for real dia⯑monds, which the merchant did. I mention this ſtory, to ſhew how the world, in things of value, are more governed by imagination than reality, otherwiſe there could not be that immenſe diſparity in the price of Norway and oriental ſtones. Here alſo is found that iſing-glaſs with which ſhips lanthorns are ſometimes glaſed, granates, amethyſts and agates.

But among the produce of the Norway mountains, are their great treaſures of metals and minerals. Paracel⯑ſus predicted that between the 60th and 70th degree northern latitude, time would diſplay ſuch a ſtore of wealth in metals, as ſhould be ſuperior to all the trea⯑ſures that ever the eaſt afforded. Should time verify this prediction, the generation then in being muſt conſtrue it as a completion of the words of Job, 37, 2. ‘From the North cometh gold,’ for in the year 1697, when Paracelſus's golden age was thought to be at hand, a golden mine being diſcovered; the above-mentioned words were the impreſſion on one ſide of the ducat, with the head of Chriſtian V. king of Denmark on the other. But that mine ſoon failed, as the gold, though fine, would not bear the expence of working. The ſilver-mines, however, are unqueſtionably one of the greateſt diſtinctions of this country. There are now two carrying on, to the vaſt advantage of the ſo⯑vereign and the community. Theſe are the works of Kongſberg and Jareſberg.

[279]The firſt lies near Sandſwerd, twenty miles from Drammen, and is the moſt conſiderable, and of the greateſt profit of any in Europe; and in reſpect of pure, maſſy, ſilver veins, quite inexhauſtible; whereas, the German ſilver ore is in a great meaſure inviſible, and muſt be extracted from the lead or copper, in which it is concealed. This work was began in the year 1623, and was diſcovered in the following manner. Two pea⯑ſants attending their cattle on thoſe ſteep mountains, which ſeparate Telemark from Numedal, found the firſt ſilver-ore in ſome fragments of ſtone fallen from the mountains, and which by way of paſtime, they uſed to throw to one another; when they heard a jingling ſound. The metallic ſubſtance it yielded they, imagined to be lead, and carrying it home, tried to melt it into bullets, buttons, and the like; but not be⯑ing able to effect it, they ſold it to a goldſmith, who uſed to ſell his goods about the country. This man informed government of it, and orders were given to ſurvey the parts, where it was found, the reſult of which was ſo favourable, that miners were ſent for from Germany. Theſe were the inhabitants of the new-built mine-town of Kongſberg, and the anceſtors of many thouſands now living there, who in proceſs of time, mixed with the Norwegians. Each nation to this day performs divine ſervice in it's own language, but all are under the direction and government of the college of miners; their college, however, has ſince undergone ſeveral changes, and the work has been [280] carried on ſometimes by a company of ſharers, and ſometimes, as at preſent, by the king alone. The Kongſberg ore, is found frequently in ſolid maſſes of ſome magnitude; the miners, indeed, dig through the rocks for weeks and find nothing; but, by and by, the rock ſuddenly exhibits ſeveral thouſand pounds weight of ſilver, and thus repays them for all their trouble, and animates them to further proſecution. In the Royal Muſeum, at Copenhagen, a piece is preſerved, of which the whole world cannot produce it's equal, it's weight being 560lb. and it's value 5000 rix-dol⯑lars, upwards of £.1000 ſterling. The ſhaft called "Old God's bleſſing," one of the moſt ancient and rich among all the mines, which ſometimes within a week has yielded ſome hundreds of pounds of rich ore, never fails to ſtrike the beholder with it's aſtoniſhing depth, being no leſs than 180 fathoms perpendicular, and the circumference at the bottom, forms a clear ſpace of ſome hundred fathoms. The ſight of ſo many piles of wood burning on all ſides, 30 or 40 in number, in this gloomy cavern and continually fed, in order to ſoften the ſtone, in the proſecution of the mine, ſeems, according to the common idea, an image of Hell, and the ſwarms of miners, buſtling about in habits accord⯑ing to their ſeveral occupations, may well paſs for ſo many devils. Eſpecially when, as a ſignal that a mine is going to be ſprung in this or that courſe, they roar out Berg-livet! Berg-livet! That is, ‘take care of your lives!’ The produce of this mine is annually [281] on an average, £.200,000 a year, and employs about 4,582 men, part of near 11,000 people dwelling in the town of Kongſberg.

Curioſity, ſays a French traveller, led me into one of theſe mines, a crane erected over the ſhafts for draw⯑ing up the ore in tubs, let me down the ſame way; I got into the tub and was lowered pleaſantly enough, but when I got to the bottom, it looked like Pluto's kingdom: there was nothing to be ſeen but frightful caverns, flaming fires, and creatures, more like dae⯑mons than men. They were cloathed in black leather jackets, each having a camail, ſuch as prieſts in France wear in the winter, a piece of peaked leather tied round his head a little above his noſe, and hanging down on his breaſt like a muffler, and an apron of the ſame. Some of theſe miners uſe the chizel, ſome the hatchet, to beat out the copper ſtones, while others are ſeeking for the copper veins, or ſounding, to try if they can diſcover any watry place, which ſometimes is hid in the bowels of the earth, and breaking forth on a ſudden, drowns them all, without the greateſt care. The maſter-miner, who attended me, finding I was taken with a cold fit, owing to the damp of the place, rung a bell and we were drawn up as eaſily as we were let down.

The other ſilver mine was diſcovered in 1726, and lies near Bragnas: it's ore is very rich, but like that [282] of the German mines, has a large mixture of lead and copper with it, and muſt be ſeparated by fuſion; but this is expected to turn out equal to the other.

Of the copper mines there are many, and their im⯑portance may be conceived from hence, that beſides the many millions which, for theſe hundred years paſt, have accrued from them to private perſons, the tenths alone bring an annual revenue to the crown, of thirty or forty thouſand rix-dollars, or near £.23,000, and upon a Swediſh invaſion, a draught of 5000 effective men, has been made out of the workmen in theſe mines. However, next to the timber, iron is one of the moſt profitable products of Norway, ſeveral hun⯑dred thouſand quintals being annually exported, partly in bars, and partly in caſt-iron, as ſtoves, cannon, pots, kettles and the like; the natural profit of which is eſtimated at three or four hundred thouſand rix-dol⯑lars, or £.90,000 ſterling. Here are alſo to be met with ſulphur, vitriol and allum.

CHAP. III. Of Land and Sea-Animals.

OF four-footed beaſts, Norway has thoſe in com⯑mon with England, and alſo the elk and rein-deer, bears, wolves, the lynx, the glutton, the martin, ermines, beavers, and the lemming or Norway mouſe.

Their horſes are generally ſmall, but well propor⯑tioned, plump and round. Their colour chiefly a deep bay, with black manes and tails, and a ſtreak along the back. They are fed only with hay, but yet are ſpirited, ſwift, and in good condition, owing moſt probably to their not being gelt. For ten miles about Bergen, no peaſants dare keep a mare; ſo that nothing is uſed but ſtone-horſes, for as there are no coach-roads for horſes to draw on, in pairs, every thing brought to this city, is packed on the backs of horſes, driven ſingle, three or four together, one before ano⯑ther, and were theſe horſes to meet with mares, there would be frequently miſchief. As it is, the horſeman muſt take great care, for when theſe horſes meet, they ſeldom part without a ſignal of animoſity. Norway horſes are very ſure-footed, they go dancing along, al⯑ways full of ſpirit, and aſcend and deſcend the higheſt [284] ſteeps, be they ever ſo ſlippery, in a ſurprizing man⯑ner. When feeding in the mountains, ſhould they be attacked by a wolf or bear, they ſhew a great deal of courage, fighting with their ſore-legs, and generally come off victorious; for if any one attempts to turn about and kick, the bear or wolf will inſtantly leap on his back; in which caſe he gallops off with his angry rider, till he drops down by the loſs of blood.

Cows here are alſo ſmall, and don't give more than about four quarts of milk; but feed is cheap, and farmers keep a great number. In ſpring, when they are firſt turned out; they make a large fire in the fields, to which the cattle in the farm-yard all run, particularly in cold nights, and lay round it. For winter-feed, the peaſants cut off the boughs of trees in ſummer-time, tie them up in bundles, dry them, and bring them home by cart-loads, of which the cattle eat the leave and young branches; but in fiſhing towns, for want of other food, they feed their cows, with cod's heads, and fiſh bones. Nay, cows here will even eat, the bones of their own ſpecies, which they break and ſwallow greedily, and will gnaw them as a dog does. The peaſants give their cows daily, a little ſalt, which whets their appetite, and ſometimes throw them a red-herring, which they apprehend is a treat to a, cow, as well as to a human creature.

[285]Of the ſheep there is nothing remarkbale but their ſtanding together in the winter under the ſnow, and eating one another's wool, as in other ſnowy countries. The place where they collect themſelves is diſcovered by the warm damp that riſes above the ſnow. Country people are here very fond of and keep too many goats, for they often injure the young trees. From Bergen alone is ſhipped off annually 70 or 80,000 goat-ſkins, excluſive of ſeveral thouſands dreſſed for Suffian, Cor⯑duan and Ruſſia leather. Theſe creatures climb the rocks and ſteeps inacceſſible to men. Wherever graſs is to be found, they will get at it, when no other graſs-feeding animal can; but they often thus get themſelves into ſuch dangerous ſituations, as not to be able to ſtir either one way or another. When ſo circumſtanced they will bray loudly, and the Norway peaſant, to ſave his goat, will ſuffer himſelf to be let down by a rope a hundred fathom or more, as we have already mention⯑ed, venturing himſelf in ſuch a manner, as another man would not do for his beſt friend. Where goats run wild, as they often do in this country, till they are ten or twelve years old, they are ſo bold, that if a wolf comes towards them alone, they will not go out of his way, and if they have dogs with them, will reſiſt a whole herd. A goat will frequently attack a ſerpent, and when he is bit by it, will devour it, though he is at ſome trouble in ſo doing. It will diſorder him for ſome days, but ſeldom kills him.

[286]Hares are here in great plenty and turn white, as in Lapland, in the winter-ſeaſon. In winter, they catch mice like cats and purſue them under the ſnow.

The Elk is an animal whoſe form is between the horſe and the ſtag, and is here called by ſome Equicer⯑vus. They are ſo long legged, that a man can ſtand upright under their belly; are of an aſh colour and have horns on their head like deer, but not ſo long and round, rather flat and broad with ſmall points about the edges. They are harmleſs creatures and keep about the houſes in winter: their fleſh is much of the taſte of veniſon, and the hide ſells for a good price, being converted in⯑to buff leather.

The Rein-deer we have given an account of in our deſcription of Lapland, ſo have we of the Glutton, and ſome other animals of this country. They here run wild, and are ſhot and ſold like other game.

Bears are found all over Norway. They are a fierce, ravenous and cunning creature. The bear is ſaid to carry her young but a month, brings forth two or three at a litter, blind and naked, and as ſmall as mice, each in form like a mere lump, which the mo⯑ther continually Ecks till it expands or unfolds itſelf. When theſe young ones are bringing up, it is dangerous to meet the old ones, for then they will attack, whilſt at other times, they are only upon the defenſive, againſt [287] mankind, excepting it be a pregnant woman, whoſe condition they know by ſcent or by inſtinct, and with all their might will ſtrive to get at the foetus. A cler⯑gyman, ſays biſhop Pontoppidan, told me, he would not believe this, till he ſaw an experiment with a young tame bear, which he chained in his yard. Leading a woman with child almoſt up to him, he began to make an uncommon noiſe, reared and tore about ſo, that they were obliged to ſhoot him. A clergyman's wife alſo related to me, continues he, the danger her huſ⯑band once found her in, when big with child. Return⯑ing home on a ſummer's evening, he ſaw a bear, trying and taking all the pains he could to break open the door of her bed-chamber, where ſhe lay in the greateſt anguiſh, hearing him roaring and jumping up in vain at the window, which fortunately for her was too high for him. From this it is to be obſerved, that if any of thoſe women, who are a whole ſummer in the coun⯑try attending upon the cows, ſhould loſe their virtue and become pregnant, ſhe would be daily in danger of her life, otherwiſe theſe poor girls are ſo intrepid, that they will often purſue a bear, hollowing, with ſticks, in their hands, and hunt him till he leaves his prey behind.

The bear has never been known to hurt a child, his food in neceſſity is roots, graſs, and wild angelica; but animal food ſuits his palate beſt, as the fleſh of ſheep, goats, cows, and horſes. His attack is with his fore⯑paws, [288] not uſing his mouth till he is maſter of the crea⯑ture, when he ſucks it's blood and drags the carcaſe to his den. If the way to it be up-hill, or through buſhes, that he cannot drag it eaſily along, he has been ſeen to take the whole carcaſs in his fore-paws, walking on his hind legs only.

Of this creature's prudence and diſcretion, they give innumerable inſtances; among many, the moſt ſingular and credible, is that, out of a whole herd of cows, he picks out that which has the bell about her neck, which by running, generally gives the ſignal of danger. At this bell he is mightily offended, he tears it off, and if it is a hammered one, will ſtrike it ſo flat with his paw, that it ſhall never ſpeak or vex him again. He will fire off a gun, when he has taken it from his pur⯑ſuer, and ſhews a great deal of cunning in ſaving his life, when ſet upon by two or three together. When the firſt that fires at him has miſſed his aim, or ſlightly wounded him, he will ſly upon the unarmed man, and hugging him, will retreat upon his hind legs as far as he can, knowing very well the others will not ſhoot at him, for fear of ſhooting their companion; when he has thus retreated to the edge of a bank or hill, he will throw himſelf down with the man, and there leave him dead or alive: ſometimes the fall will kill them both. If he finds himſelf mortally wounded, he en⯑deavours to rob the hunters of his hide, which he knows they come for, and will therefore lay hold of a [289] very large ſtone, and if there be a deep water near him, will plunge himſelf into it. When the farmers go out a bear-hunting, they go commonly three or four in company. As ſoon as they meet with one, they force him and tire him, firſt with their ſmall dogs, which are broke in for the purpoſe, and who run under his belly and lay hold of his genitals. Large dogs he will ſeize on at once and tear them to pieces; but when the little ones have worried and tired him, he will get up to the ſide of a tree or rock, ſet his back againſt it, and tearing up the ſtones and earth will throw them at his purſuers. At this time the markſman ſhoots him with a rifled-barrel gun; if he receives the ball in his cheſt, or under the ſhoulder, or in his ear, he falls; if not, he grows outrageous and will fly upon the ſhoot⯑er, who then deſends himſelf with a dagger, which a Norwegian farmer always carries about him, hanging at his ſide by a braſs chain. Should he not ſucceed with this, he loſes his life, if no one is at hand to aſſiſt him; for the bear fleas his ſkin off, pulling the hair and fleſh over his head and ears, face and all. Sometimes, however, the bear is contented with beating his con⯑quered foe with his paws till he ſeems to be dead; and when he perceives that he draws no more breath, will leave him. A life has, ſometimes, been ſaved this way. If the farmer conquers, which is almoſt always the caſe, he fleas the bear and fixes up the head on his houſe, as a trophy of his victory. A hide will ſell for five or ſix rix-dollars (each rix-dollar 4s, 6d. Engliſh.) [290] The fleſh is not much liked, taſting like liver, but a ſat bear-ham is a great delicacy.

Fierce as the wolf is, he is daunted at the leaſt oppo⯑ſition, and only bold and daring againſt thoſe who fly before him. Even a cow or goat that turns againſt him will put him to flight. Hunger will make a wolf in winter-ſeaſon ſeize a dog chained in a farm-yard, and upon the ice take away a horſe from a ſledge; which obliges travellers at that time of year, to go armed: many contrivances are uſed to deſtroy them. Inſtru⯑ments to blow them up; charged guns, laid by a car⯑caſe, that go off with the leaſt touch; deep holes with ſecret traps above, into which they fall; and it is re⯑markable, that when another animal falls into the ſame pit with a wolf, as is ſometimes the caſe; the wolf is found ſneaking in a corner, at the greateſt diſtance from his fellow-priſoner, whom, out of fear, he dare not approach.

The lynx or loſſen, in Norway called goupe, is ſome⯑thing like a wolf, but ſmaller, and is of the cat or tyger kind. It is, however, equally fierce and danger⯑ous, and tears all to pieces that it can maſter. It's ſkin is light-grey or white with black ſpots like the panther, and is ſold from eight to twelve rix-dollars each, according to their goodneſs. When a goupe is attacked by a dog, he throws himſelf on his back, in the manner of a cat, and turns up his fore-legs to de⯑fend [291] himſelf; the dog, on this, lays hold and thinks himſelf conqueror; but the goupe then makes uſe of his claws ſo effectually, as to flay his enemy alive.

To what we have ſaid of the ermine in our account of Lapland, we will here add, from the authority of Bp. Pontoppidan, that in calm weather, they will ſwim to the ſmall iſlands in ſearch of the eggs of water-fowl, which they are very fond of; and when they have their young on any of theſe iſlands, they will bring them to the continent on a piece of chip or bit of wood; the mother ſwimming behind and with her ſnout ſhoving it along. Small as this creature is, it is capable of de⯑ſtroying the elk or bear, by creeping into their ears when they lie aſleep, and laying faſt hold with their teeth; when the large animal feels himſelf thus attack⯑ed, he begins to run about and roars, till he has ex⯑hauſted himſelf; at length, being wearied out, he be⯑comes faint, droops, languiſhes and dies. In the ſame manner will the ermine, ſteel himſelf upon a ſleeping eagle, and will let this bird fly away with him upon it's back, where he continues gnawing him, till by the great effuſion of blood, the bird drops down dead on the ground.

In the body of the Beaver is a bag, in which is the precious caſtor of the ſhops; with this and with his fine dark-brown ſkin is carried on a conſiderable trade at Elverum's fair. The beaver is an amphibious animal, [292] living as well in water as on land. Not to mention their manner of building their houſes here, would be unpar⯑donable, for though many of our readers may be ac⯑quainted with it from reading other books, many, per⯑haps know nothing about it. The beaver is ſhaped like a long-bodied dog, with ſhort legs, a ſhort and flat head, ſmall round ears and eyes, a large thick and ſmooth tail, which weighs ſeveral pounds, the ſkin of which is covered with fiſh ſcales, and is ſo much of the fiſhy kind as to taſte like fiſh, and cannot bear to be long out of the water; the reſt of his body is fleſh. The Roman Catholicks conſider the tail as fiſh and eat it as ſuch. His hinder feet, are webbed like thoſe of a gooſe, and are of the ſame fleſhy nature. As his tail cannot be long out of water, the beaver builds his houſe in ſuch a manner, that he can always have his hind part hanging in a place which is open from ice all the winter, that, he may continually throw his tail forwards and backwards in free water.

To be ſure of this advantage even where the water riſes and falls, he builds always at the water-edge, a wooden houſe three ſtories high, and regularly raiſed above one another like a little tower, where he and his mate have each their ſeparate lodging and bed. To fell the trees for building of theſe houſes, the wiſe Creator has furniſhed this little animal with a tooth, four or five inches long, and ſharp at the end not unlike a boar's tuſk; with this, as with a ſmall ax, he prepares [293] the wood for the joiſts, fits all together and lays them ſo, over one another, that they will not fall. After this, to tranſport theſe materials to the ſpot, he uſes a moſt ſurprizing dexterity, as I am aſſured, ſays Pon⯑toppidan, by many who have been witneſſes. A num⯑ber are employed on this work together, and one will ſuffer himſelf to be uſed as a cart, which the others like horſes take hold off, faſtening on him by the neck, and dragging him along; for this purpoſe, he firſt throws himſelf on his back, with his legs up, between which they lay their prepared timber, and in this manner convey it to the ſpot, one load after another; but this always coſts the firſt a bare back, for it takes off all the hair.

Of the otter, as it is well known in this country, we ſhall only ſay, upon the authority of Pontoppidan, that when young, they may be tamed; for, that a cre⯑dible neighbour of his aſſured him, he had ſo uſed one to the houſe, by feeding him with milk, that, at command, he would go into the river and fetch him a fiſh or two, at any time.

The lemming or Norway mouſe, is that mountain mouſe we have deſcribed in our Account of Lapland, and to which we muſt the reader.

After the quadrupeds, we come to ſpeak of creep⯑ing animals. As to ſerpents, toads, and other poiſon⯑ous [294] creatures of that kind, they are not found but in the ſouthern parts of Norway. To ſhew the power of ſerpents even over birds which do not ſeem ſubject to them, Pontoppidan relates on the authority of many credible witneſſes, that as one of them lies on the ground, he will raiſe his head about nine inches, with his mouth opened, till a lark or a ſwallow, or ſome low-flying bird, in it's flight, happens to have the miſ⯑fortune to come perpendicularly over him; on this, the bird continues ſtationary, though at ſome fa⯑thoms height, and finding itſelf irriſiſtably impelled, begins to cry ſadly, and at laſt, drops directly into the ſerpent's mouth, who well knows how to ſeparate the feathers, and throw them out. That this happens, is corroborated by other authors. Sir Hans Sloane ſays the ſame of the American rattle-ſnake. But how the effluviae riſing from the natural powers of the ſnake or ſerpent ſhould attract the bird, we leave others to in⯑veſtigate. In one of the Hamburg Magazines, is Dr. C. J. Sprenger's experiment with a mouſe, which was let looſe on the ground to a ſnake; it made a few turns, ſqueaked a little, and then run directly into the ſnake's mouth, who all the while lay ſtill, with his mouth open.

We ſhall paſs over lizards, frogs, ſnails, graſs-hop⯑pers, worms, ſpiders, caterpillars, flies, ants, &c. common to other countries, and mention the cluſter-worm peculiar to Norway. It is properly a congeries of animals and conſiſts of a great number of ſmall [295] worms, gathered and extended a great way along the earth, juſt like a rope of many fathoms, a finger and a half or two fingers broad. Each worm is not thicker than a piece of courſe thread and as long as a barley-corn, of a watry colour and a black ſpot on the head. Theſe worms like to be together and are found by millions, continually crawling upon each other, yet ſo, that the whole company conſtantly follows and leaves a path behind them like a drawn line.

Of birds, Norway may boaſt of a great variety, ſea as well as land, ſome in common with other countries, and ſome little known but in this. Their numbers are ſo great on the ſea-coaſt, within ten or twelve miles of the ſhore, that one would imagine all the ſea-ſowl of the univerſe were collected here in one flock; and they are often ſeen in ſuch flights, as to obſcure the heavens. In many places they keep dogs trained to fetching the ſhore and ſtrand-birds out of their holes in the rocks, which are almoſt inacceſſible. But one farmer muſt not keep more of theſe dogs than his neighbour, that he may not prejudice him in his livelihood. The dogs as well as the farmers, run the greateſt hazard of their lives, in this employ, and ſometimes periſh by unhappy falls; for they either climb up thoſe exceſſive high and ſteep rocks, finding but here and there a hold or place for their feet; or elſe they are let down from the top, 100 fathoms or more, that they may get into the hollows under the projecting clifts and caves [296] formed by nature. At Foeroe, which exports annual⯑ly ſeveral thouſand pounds worth of feathers to Copen⯑hagen, there is held a bird-hunt of this kind, which is circumſtantially deſcribed by Mr. Lucas Debes, who was many years a dean in that country, and with whoſe ac⯑count we ſhall entertain our readers. It is taken from his Faeroa reſerata, page 140.

It is not to be deſcribed, ſays he, with what trouble and danger they look for the birds in the high and ſteep rocks, many of which are more than 200 fa⯑thoms perpendicular; and there are particular people, who by nature are fitted for this kind of bird-catching, and are called Birdmen: they make uſe of two me⯑thods to catch them; either climbing up theſe per⯑pendicular rocks, or elſe being let down from the top by a ſtrong rope. When they climb up, it is by the aſſiſtance of a pole, 18 or 20 feet long, with an iron hook at the end; they who are underneath in the boat, or ſtand on a cliff, faſten this hook to the waiſtband of the man's breeches who climbs, and a rope round his waiſt, by which means they help him up to the higheſt projection he can reach and fix his feet upon; then they help another up to the ſame place, and when they are both up, they give them each their bird-pole in their hands, and a long rope is tied round each other's waiſt at each end: one of them climbs up as high as he can, and where it is difficult, the other by putting his pole under his breech, pathes him up till he gets to a good [297] reſting place. The uppermoſt of the two, then helps the other up to him by a rope and ſo on, till they get to the place where the birds build, and where they ſearch for them. As there are, in theſe rocks, many dan⯑gerous places yet to climb, whilſt they are bound to⯑gether with a ſtrong rope, one always ſeeks a conve⯑nient place to ſtand ſafe, whilſt the other is climbing about. If the latter ſhould happen to ſlip, he is then held up by the other, who ſtanding firm, helps him up again, and when he has got ſafe paſt thoſe dangerous places, he fixes himſelf in the ſame manner, that he may aſſiſt the other. But accidents ſometimes happen, for ſhould one not ſtand firm, or not be ſtrong enough to ſupport the other when he ſlips, they both fall and are killed: and there ſeldom a year paſſes but ſome loſe their lives.

When they reach thoſe places where the birds build, ſome are tame enough to be taken by the hand; but where they are wild, they either throw a net over them in the rock, or entangle them in a net at the end of their poles, as they are flying in and out of their holes. A boat is underneath in the ſea, into which they throw their dead fowl, and preſently fill it. In tolerable weather, when there is plenty of game, the birdmen will continue out in the rocks eight days together, ly⯑ing at nights in ſome hole in the rock, where provi⯑ſions are let down to them by lines, and where others go daily in boats to bring away what they kill.

[298]Many rocks are ſo frightful and dangerous, as not to be climbed; the men then are let down from above, by a ſtrong rope, 80 or 100 fathoms long, and about three inches thick; one end of this the birdman faſt⯑ens round his waiſt like a belt, and then draws it be⯑tween his legs, ſo as to ſit on it. Six men at top hold the rope, letting it ſink by degrees, laying a piece of timber on the edge of the rocks, that it may not cut the cord. There is another line faſtened round the man's waiſt, which he pulls, to give ſigns, when he would be pulled up, or let lower, &c, This man is in great danger from the ſtones in the ſide of the rock looſening by the rope, and falling on his head; to guard againſt this, he wears a thick cap; but this does not ſave a man's life, if large ſtones fall on him. The experienced in this buſineſs thinks nothing of the danger, and will ſhift himſelf from place to place with great readineſs, catching the birds, as he ſwings upon the line, ſlinging himſelf from one ridge of the rock to another; and when he has killed a ſufficient number, he ties them to the ſmall rope and they are drawn up, or faſtens them to his belt, and will often work himſelf up by the rope. In this manner he will ſwing about all day, and catch a great quantity of game.

Where there are not a ſufficient number of men to hold the rope, it is fixed to a poſt, and the birdman will ſlide down without any help. Many of theſe men [299] are ſo expert at the buſineſs, that they will hang and climb without fear, in places, where they can but catch hold with their fingers, and pitch the ends of their toes, and when the diſtance between them and the ſea beneath, ſhall be more than 100 fathoms.

Among the water-fowl met with in this country, is the eider-duck, of which we have given ſome account in treating of Iceland, we ſhall only obſerve further here on the authority of Pontoppidan, that as ravens and crows hunt out for theſe birds neſts, to ſuck their eggs, it has made them ſometimes build half a mile up in the country, as a place of more ſecurity, and when the young ones are fit to go to ſea with their mother, ſhe ſquats down, for them to climb on her back and carries them away by an even flight. This down is ſold in Norway for 9s. a lb. Engliſh, and is ſo light, warm, ſoft, and ready to ſpread itſelf, that two handfuls ſqueezed together is enough to fill a down quilt.

To enter into the variety of birds met with in this country, and deſcribe them all with their particulari⯑ties, would be ſwelling this work to an enormous ſize, and deviating from the plan we ſet out upon, which is to deſcribe the different countries and their natural hiſ⯑tory, only as far as is uſeful to a general reader; if he re⯑quires more, we muſt refer him to thoſe treatiſes which deſcribe the animals, birds and fiſhes of the ſeveral [300] parts of the globe. Let it ſuffice to ſay, then, that Norway has not only the birds we have mentioned, but eagles, and almoſt all that are common to other countries.

It is the ſame with fiſhes, none of which we ſhall attempt to deſcribe, but ſuch as are very remarkable. We have already given an account of the vaſt quanti⯑ties of fiſhes which the northern ſeas afford. The firſt inhabited land from the north pole, that emigrant fiſhes touch upon, next to Iceland, is Norway, as alſo the north of Scotland and the Orkneys. Such quan⯑tities of herrings, cod, and other valuable fiſhes, are caught in the northern parts of Norway, as bring in annually upwards of a million of rix-dollars. To con⯑template the ways of Providence in the article of fiſhes, muſt be pleaſing and wonderful to a philoſophic mind; and to open the reader's ideas on this ſubject, we will lay before him a few obſervations of Rollin, in his ſtudy of Nature, for the ſervice of youth. Speaking of fiſhes, he ſays, ‘How many kinds of fiſhes of various ſizes do the waters produce! I contemplate all theſe, and it ſeems to me that there is nothing but a head and a tail. They have no hands or feet, and their head has no free motion. If I was to draw any concluſions from their form, I ſhould think that there wanted every neceſſary to ſupport life; yet with ſo few external parts, they are more active, quicker, and more ingenious, than if [301] they had many hands and feet. They know ſo well how to uſe their fins, that they ſhoot forward like an arrow from a bow, and rather fly than ſwim. Fiſhes devour one another continually; how, therefore, it might be aſked, can theſe inhabitants of the ſea ſubſiſt? But, here God's providence has allotted means, and ordains it thus, that their breed and in⯑creaſe ſhall be wonderfully great, and that their fruitfulneſs ſhall by much exceed their neceſſity of devouring each other; ſo, that thoſe which are eaten by others, are always very ſhort of thoſe which ariſe from the next brood. When I conſider, how the ſmall fiſhes eſcape from the large, by whom they are looked upon as their prey, to hunt as they pleaſe; I ſee the weak are much the nimbler, and are always prepared to fly to places where the water is ſo ſhallow, as not to admit the large to follow them. Thus has it pleaſed the Creator to make up their weakneſs, by giving them ſo much circum⯑ſpection. How is it that fiſhes can live and thrive in ſuch waters as I cannot drink? How is it in the midſt of ſalt, that their fleſh does not taſte of it? How comes it that the beſt and fitteſt fiſhes for the uſe of man, approach the ſhore, and as it were, offer themſelves to our wants, and at a time when they are the fatteſt? When on the contrary, others, that are not ſo uſeful, keep farther off? Why do herrings, mackrell, &c. all which in the time of their increaſe and growth, live in unknown places; [302] at certain ſeaſons, appear in our ſeas, about the coaſts, as if to offer themſelves to fiſhermen, and even throw themſelves into the nets, and on the hooks? Whoſe hand but thine, O Lord, guides them ſo wiſely; though thy great care is ſeldom re⯑ceived with due thankfulneſs!’

Anchovies are here ſalted and barrelled up with ſpi⯑ces, for exportation. They differ very little from the herring, except in ſize, being much ſmaller.

The Shark is a fiſh common to theſe ſeas, of which there are ſeveral ſpecies, but the whole tribe of ſharks, have no bones, excepting that of the back, but only a cartilaginous or griſtly ſubſtance, inſtead of bone. They do not, like moſt kinds of fiſhes eject their ſpawn, but are viviparous, and like the whale, bring forth their young alive; five or ſix at a birth; their ſkin is hard and rough, and full of prickles, and their fins are uſed by turners, carvers, &c. to poliſh their work. The mouth of the ſhark, is not placed like that of any other kind of fiſhes, but underneath a pretty long ſnout, deſigned as it were, to prevent their deſtroying other fiſhes in too great quantities, for they are obliged to turn on their backs, when they would devour their prey, unleſs it happens to ſwim juſt under them. The ſhark bites very keenly, has a vo⯑racious appetite, and is ſo fond of human fleſh, that [303] they will in ſhoals follow the Guinea ſhips to America, for the dead negroes that are thrown overboard in the paſſage. They have been known to bite a man's leg off, when bathing in the ſea. Was it not, ſays Sir Hans Sloane, in his voyage to Jamaica, for the neceſſity it is under, of turning on it's back to catch it's prey, at which time the purſued fiſhes eſcape, there would be nothing that could avoid it; for it is a ſwift ſwim⯑mer, has great ſtrength, and the largeſt ſwallow of the fiſh tribe exiſting. Some of them are from 40 to 50 feet long.

The whale here at certain ſeaſons is very generally met with. Having ſufficiently deſcribed this fiſh in our Account of Greenland, we ſhall only obſerve here that they are ſeen on the weſtern coaſt of Norway, in vaſt quantities about January; at this time, the ſea appears covered with them, and from the water ſpouted from their noſtrils continually, they have the appear⯑ance of a large city with a great many chimnies ſmoking.

The herring is a fiſh every where known, and from the Norway ſeas, ſent almoſt all over Europe. In the Netherlands, there are above 150,000 people, ſolely employed in this fiſhery. In Norway alſo, there are many thouſands of families thus maintained. Her⯑rings, like mackrell, aſſemble together and follow one-another [304] in vaſt ſhoals; and it is ſaid, they have always a leader of their own ſpecies, eighteen inches long, and proportionably broad, which fiſhermen will never deſtroy, if they can avoid it. No one but a Norwe⯑gian fiſherman can form any idea of the largeneſs and extent of theſe prodigious ſhoals. If infinity were ap⯑plicable to any thing created, one might venture to make uſe of that word with reſpect to herrings, for each of them has more than 10,000 grains or eggs in it's roe.

A hill of herrings, (for ſo a large ſhoal of them is called,) according to the fiſhermens accounts, reaches from the bottom to the ſurface of the water, which in moſt places where they are caught, is from one hun⯑dred to two hundred fathoms deep. They extend alſo to a conſiderable circumference. Were they all to be caught, the greateſt part would be loſt, for it would be impoſſible to get hands, tubs, ſalt, and other neceſſaries for the curing them. Several hundred ſhip⯑loads are ſent annually from Bergen to foreign parts, beſides what is conſumed by the peaſants, who make them their daily proviſion.

During the herring-fiſhery, the country people aſ⯑ſemble together on the ſhore by thouſands, while a great number put off ſeveral miles to ſea. At this ſeaſon, one may often ſee in the compaſs of a mile, upwards of two or three hundred fiſhing boats, lying [305] on their ſtation for a whole month or longer, and caſt⯑ing their large nets, which are ſixty or ſeventy feet long. They generally put two of theſe nets together, and though there are a great many, perhaps 100 or 150 in one place, and pretty cloſe together, yet in a few hours they will be ſo loaded with herrings, that they often ſink to the bottom, and are with great diffi⯑culty drawn up again. In each net they will often catch 4 or 5,000 large herrings, which hang faſt by their gills in the meſhes. What I am going to relate, ſays Bp. Pontoppidan, is ſurprizing, and what foreigners will hardly believe, but I myſelf am very well aſſured of it, and the whole city of Bergen can witneſs the ſame, that with one caſt of the net in Sundifiord, there were caught as many herrings as filled 100 (ſome ſay 150) jaggers, each jagger 100 tons burthen, which make 10,000 tons, taken at one draught. In Bp. Pontoppi⯑dan's account of Norway, there are, doubtleſs, many very ſurprizing things told; but he ſeems very cautious of advancing what appears incredible on authorities he could not rely on; where he aſſerts matters to be as he relates them, he has ſufficient proof of the fact, and where he does not, he gives it as a matter of doubt, and as reported only.

The Sturgeon is a fiſh in fine perfection in the North Sea. They approach the ſhore about Midſummer, with the ſummer herrings, which they drive along at ſuch a rate, that they will raiſe themſelves above the [306] ſurface of the water in the purſuit. They do not ſwim together in ſhoals, or extend in breadth, but follow one-another in a ſtrait line, laying hold of each other's tail. As this fiſh is not armed with teeth, either for uſe or defence, the marks of Providence appear in it's peculiar ſtructure, having thick broad ſcales or plates of bone, which cover it's body as a coat of mail, and are it's beſt defence.

The coaſt of Norway is alſo remarkable for it's cod-fiſhery, where this fiſh is dried, or ſalted and barrelled in great quantities. Upwards of 20,000 tons weight of dried cod has been exported from Bergen, in one year, beſides a great deal of pickled cod in caſks. Great quantities are alſo exported from Trontheim, Chriſtian⯑ſund, and Stavanger. And for this purpoſe alone are annually imported 40,000 tons of Spaniſh and French ſalt. Barrelled cod is chiefly ſold in the Baltic, but dry cod at Hamburgh, Bremen and Amſterdam, from whence they are carried up the rivers all over Germany. Some are exported to Flanders and England, but not ſo many as to Italy, Spain and other countries in the Mediterranean.

As the French cannot do without the ſpawn of Nor⯑way cod-fiſh, which they uſe by way of bait, to ſtrew in the ſea, in order to catch a ſort of fiſh ſomething like herrings; ſeveral thouſand caſks of cods roe are ſalted down every year in Norway, and the demand has been [307] ſo great, that, for twenty years together, there has been annually exported fourteen or ſixteen ſhip-loads of roes only, beſides what they carry in their own bot⯑toms. From the liver of the cod, they extract train-oil, of which 7000 caſks are annually exported from Ber⯑gen. Two hundred cods will generally yield a caſk of oil.

The Walruſs, or Sea-horſe, is ſeen ſometimes on this coaſt, but not ſo frequently as about Iceland or Spitzberg, where it is found in incredible numbers; ſeveral thouſands being often ſeen together. Their body and head are like thoſe of a large cow, and they have ſhort hair on their ſkin, like the ſeal; but what is moſt remarkable is, that their two large teeth or tuſks which project out of their mouth, are full eighteen inches long, and are very good ivory.

Of Shell-fiſh, the Norwegians alſo have great vari⯑ety, beſides oyſters, muſcles, cockles, lobſters, crabs, &c. in common with other countries. Oyſters are here pickled, barrelled and exported. It is ſaid the crab and ſtar-fiſh often feed upon the oyſter, and when the oyſter opens it's ſhell to take in it's food, they will art⯑fully throw a ſtone in, to prevent it's ſhutting cloſe again and being pinched with the ſhell. This is more wily even than the fox, whoſe tongue or paw is often held faſt, by attempting to get at the oyſter. To ſhew how large oyſters have been found, there are, in the King's muſeum, at Copenhagen, two oyſter-ſhells that [308] were drawn up by a cable at Goa, each of which weighs 224lb. they are five feet in diameter, and the fiſh was ſo large that every one of the ſhip's crew had a conſider⯑able piece of it.

In the dioceſe of Chriſtianſund there is a pearl fiſhery, belonging to the King and carried on at his expence. They are given to the Queen as one of the regalia of the Kingdom of Norway. Theſe pearls are the produce of a ſmall freſh-water muſcle, and are found in certain rivers and brooks. There is a manager or intendant pre⯑ſiding over this fiſhery. The pearl is generally found in that part of the fiſh which is called the beard in the oyſter, and ſometimes on both ſides, but the pearls are always flat on that ſide that grows to the ſhell. There are ſome Norway pearls not inferior to oriental ones, but the number of theſe is not very conſiderable.

Such a trade is here carried on in lobſters, that every ſpring there are never leſs than 30 or 40 lobſter-buſſes, from London and Amſterdam, which are loaded with them, each having wells capable of containing 12,000 lobſters alive. A lobſter in Norway, eight inches long, is vaiued at one penny ſterling, of a leſs ſize one half-penny; at this low ſale, they produce annually 10,000 rix-dollars, that is £2250. ſterling, in the dioceſe of Sta⯑venger alone. To encourage the exportation of lobſters by the natives, it is eſtabliſhed in the harbours, that a [309] Norway veſſel muſt be firſt loaded, before they have per⯑miſſion to ſell any to foreigners.

Such an infinite variety is there in the inhabitants of the ocean, that it is probable one hundredth part of them have never come to the knowledge of man, or or probably ever will. Was it poſſible for our ſight to penetrate through the thick medium of water, as we can through the air, according to the accounts given by di⯑vers, we ſhould ſee very wonderful objects. The many we have ſeen, may give the learned ſome idea of the reſt. Was it poſſible that the ſea could be drained of it's waters, what incredible numbers of uncommon and amazing ſea-monſters, would exhibit themſelves to our view, which are now entirely unknown! Such a ſight would at once determine the truth of many hypotheſes, concerning ſea-animals, whoſe exiſtence is diſputed and looked upon as chimerical. The following extraordi⯑nary ſea-monſters that are occaſionally met with on the coaſt of Norway, ſays Pontoppidan, though they may appear incredible, are well-atteſted by numbers of credible witneſſes, and hundreds of teſtimonies might be produced for each inſtance, if it was required.

Among the many ſea-monſters often ſeen in the north ſea, the firſt we ſhall mention are the merman and mer⯑maid. The exiſtance of this creature is queſtioned by many, nor is it at all to be wondered at, becauſe moſt of the accounts given of it, are blended with fables and [310] idle tales; but that does not render it impoſſible in the nature of things. It is well known there are ſea-horſes, ſea-cows, ſea-wolves, ſea-hogs, ſea-dogs, &c. ſo called from their bearing a near reſemblance to the land-ani⯑mals of thoſe ſpecies. Why then may there not be ſea-men and ſea-maids, when we know that in the tribe of land-animals, there are apes and baboons nearly re⯑ſembling the human ſpecies? I hope then I may be credited, ſays Bp. Pontoppidan, when I declare that in the dioceſe of Bergen are ſeveral hundreds of perſons of credit and reputation, who affirm, with the ſtrongeſt aſſurances, that they have ſeen this kind of creature, ſometimes at a diſtance, and at other times quite cloſe to their boats, ſtanding upright and formed like a hu⯑man creature down to the middle: the reſt they could not ſee. I have ſpoken with many of thoſe people, all eye-witneſſes to the exiſtence of the creature, and I have taken all poſſible precautions in examining them ſtrictly on the ſubject, the reſult was, that I found them all agree in every particular of their accounts. But of thoſe who have ſeen them out of the water and handled them, I have not been able to find more than one per⯑ſon of credit, who could vouch it for truth; this is the Rev. Mr. Peter Angel, miniſter of the pariſh of Vand Elvens Gield on Sundmoer: I ſhall relate what he aſ⯑ſured me, when I was once on my viſitation-journey. He ſaid that in the year 1719, he, (being then about twenty years old) along with ſeveral other inhabitants of Alſtahoug, in Nordland, ſaw what is called a mer⯑man, [311] man, lying dead on a point of land, near the ſea, which had been caſt aſhore by the waves. It's length was above three fathoms. It was all over of a dark-grey colour, it's lower part like a fiſh and had a tail like a porpus. It's face reſembled that of a man, with a mouth, forehead, eyes, &c. It's noſe was flat and as it were preſſed down to the face, in which the noſtrils were, however, very viſible. The bread was not far from the head, the arms ſeemed to hang to the ſide to which they were joined by a thin ſkin. The hands were, to appearance, like the paw of a ſeal. The back of this creature was very fat, and a great part of it was cut off, which, with the liver, yielded a great quantity of train oil. Mr. Luke Debes, in his deſcription of Faroe, tells us, that the people there have ſeen a mermaid with a fiſh in her hands, of courſe concludes they are ani⯑mals of prey. This mermaid he thus deſcribes, ‘She ſtood cloſe to the ſhore two hours and a half, and was up to the navel in water. She had long hair on her head which hung down to the ſurface of the water all round her.’

Another wonderful ſea-monſter, ſeen ſometimes in the North, is the great Sea-ſerpent. Theſe creatures con⯑tinually keep themſelves at the bottom of the ſea, except⯑ing in the months of July and Auguſt, which is their ſpawning time; they then come to the ſurface of the water, in calm weather, but plunge into it again as ſoon as the wind raiſes the leaſt wave. If it were not for this, [312] the reality of this ſnake's exiſtence would be leſs queſti⯑oned than it is; though the coaſt of Norway is the only place in Europe, viſited by this terrible animal. I queſ⯑tioned it's exiſtence myſelf, ſays Pontoppidan, till that ſuſpicion was removed by the full evidence of credi⯑ble and experienced fiſhermen and ſailors in Norway, of which there are hundreds, who can teſtify that they have annually ſeen them. Nay, the Honourable Lawrence de Ferry, a captain in the navy, ſhot one in company with ſeveral men in the year 1746, all of whom made oath of the truth of it. This creature ap⯑pears, on a fair eſtimate, to be full 600 Engliſh feet long, and it's body, in circumference, to be as big as two hogſheads. When it lies on the ſurface of the water, it is in many folds, that is, there are in a line with the head, which it carries near two feet out of the ſea, ſome ſmall parts of the back, to the number of twenty-five or more, to be ſeen above the ſurface of the water, when it moves or bends. Theſe, at a diſtance, appear like ſo many caſks floating in a line, with a conſiderable diſtance between each. The head has a high and broad forehead, and reſembles that of a horſe, it's ſnout be⯑ing flat, with large noſtrils and ſeveral ſtiff hairs ſtand⯑ing out, like whiſkers. It's eyes are very large, of a blue colour and look like two pewter plates. The whole animal is of a dark-brown colour, but ſpeckled and variegated, with light ſtreaks or ſpots that ſhine like tortoiſeſhell. It ſeems to have a quick ſmell, for, to avoid any danger ariſing from them, fiſhermen car⯑ry [313] ſome caſtor with them, a little of which they throw into the water, whenever it appears in ſight, which it always flies from; otherwiſe they would be in danger of being ſunk, for this animal has been known to throw itſelf acroſs a boat and ſink it, and it's excrement, which floats on the ſurface of the water is ſo corroſive, as to bliſter the hands of thoſe who handle it. There ſeems to be ſome alluſion to this creature in the Pro⯑phet Amos, chap. 9. v. 3. ‘And though they be hid from my light in the bottom of the ſea, thence will I command the ſerpent, and he ſhall bite them.’ The ſuppoſition that this ſea-ſnake anſwers the deſcription of the leviathan, or the crooked ſerpent, Iſaiah 27, 1. "that ſhall ſlay the dragon that is in the ſea;" or that it may be the long ſerpent mentioned in Job, 26, 13. is not without ſome foundation. Egede (an author of credit) ſays that in 1734, he ſaw one that raiſed itſelf ſo high out of the water, that it's head reached above the main-top-maſt of the ſhip. And we may ſtrengthen theſe aſſertions, by an account of modern date; Jens Anderſon and Mads Jenſon, maſter and mate of the Mar⯑garetta of Eſterezer of Norway, declared on the 16th of Auguſt, 1786, before J. R. Lamy, a magiſtrate of Dundee, in Scotland, that on Saturday, the 5th of Auguſt, 1786, between the hours of nine and ten in the forenoon, being on their voyage to Dundee, in la⯑titude 56 deg. 16 m. N. about fifteen or ſixteen leagues to the eaſtward of the iſland of May, they, as well as the whole crew of the ſaid ſhip, perceived, within leſs [314] than one mile's diſtance of the ſouthward of them, what they conceived to be an animal called in Norway a ſea-ſerpent, a creature of a huge ſize, emerging from the ſea; that, from it's appearance, it ſeemed to form three low iſlands, or ſand-banks, of a greyiſh colour; that they conceived the length of it to have been at leaſt three Engliſh miles; that it lay ſtretched from S. W. to N. E. that it's breadth appeared to be about twenty or thirty fathoms; and that it was in ſight fifty minutes and went down gradually, without any remarkable agitation of the water. From the time of it's aſcending and during it's appearance on the water, the weather was perfectly calm, and it went down again as ſoon as a breeze came on. The waves broke on thoſe parts of it which were above water, as on a bank, and the great⯑eſt apparent height it bore above water, ſeemed to be from two to three fathoms.

We come now to the Kraken, which is inconteſtibly the largeſt creature of all the animal creation, and con⯑ſequently deſerves the beſt account the nature of things will admit of. Norway fiſhermen affirm, that as they row out ſeveral miles to ſea, in hot ſummer-days, when they expect, by their ſituation, to find 80 or 100 fathoms of water, it often happens that they do not find above 20 or 30, and ſometimes leſs. At theſe places they generally find the greateſt plenty of fiſhes. By this they judge the kraken is at bottom. If the depth at this time decreaſes, they find the animal is [315] raiſing itſelf nearer the ſurface, of courſe they take to their oars and get off. When they have reached their uſual depth and find themſelves out of danger, they lie upon their oars, and a few minutes after ſee this enormous monſter come up to the ſurface. He there ſhews himſelf ſufficiently, though his whole body does not appear, and in all likelihood no human eye ever beheld (except the young of this ſpecies) it's whole back or upper part, which ſeems to be an Eng⯑liſh mile and a half in circumference, and looks like a number of ſmall iſlands, ſurrounded with ſomething that floats and fluctuates like ſea-weeds. Here and there a larger riſing is obſerved like ſand-banks, on which various kinds of ſmall fiſhes are ſeen continual⯑ly leaping about, till they roll off into the water from the ſides of it; at laſt ſeveral bright points or horns ap⯑pear, which grow thicker and thicker, the higher they riſe above the ſurface of the water, and ſometimes they ſtand up as high and as large as the maſts of middle-ſized veſſels.

It ſeems theſe are the creature's arms, and it is ſaid, if they were to lay hold of the largeſt man of war, they would pull it down to the bottom. After this monſter has been on the ſurface of the water a ſhort time, it be⯑gins ſlowly to ſink again, and then the danger is as great as before, for his motion occaſions ſuch a ſwell and ſuch an eddy or whirl-pool, that it draws every thing down with it, within it's ſphere of action.

[316]This enormous ſea-animal, in all probability, is of the ſtar-fiſh kind (which conſiſts of a round body as a centre, without a head, from which extends eight or ten points or legs, reſembling the rays of a ſtar.) And what we have called it's arms are more properly antennae, or feeling horns, with which it moves and gathers it's food, which conſiſts of fiſhes. Thoſe who have ob⯑ſerved it, have taken notice, that for ſome months the kraken is continually eating, and in other months con⯑tinually voiding it's excrements. During this evacua⯑tion, the ſurface of the water is coloured and appears thick and turbid. This brings the fiſhes about him, when he feeds upon them, and after digeſtion converts them into baits for other fiſhes.

Many ſeafaring people have given accounts of float⯑ing iſlands, that is, ſudden appearances of land which again as ſuddenly vaniſh, particularly in the north ſea. This can be nothing but the back of the kraken: and if there be any credit, that it is in the power of a fiſh to ſtop a ſhip under ſail, as ſome ſeamen report, it can be no other than the kraken.

CHAP. IV. Of the People.

WE come now to ſpeak of the people of this coun⯑try, who were moſt probably the followers of Odin, driven out of Aſia by Pompey the great, and who ſpread themſelves to the north, as far as they found the country habitable. The famous diſtrict Quaenanger, in the manor of Nordland, where the fabulous Rudbeck ſuppoſes his northern Amagonian, or female republic, to have exiſted, is well known. This republic, if any ſuch there was, was driven with the ancient inhabitants of Norway, by the followers of Odin, into Finland. The petty kings of theſe more modern Norwegians, who then took poſſeſſion of the country were, in the tenth century, conquered by King Harold Harfagre, and ſuch as would not ſubmit to him, left the country and fled to Iceland, Greenland, Ferroe, Shetland and the Orkneys, where they ſettled.

The Norwegians are in general robuſt, tall, well-made and lively. The peaſants who live among the mountains, are generally taller than the reſt, and have [318] a certain ſeverity in their countenance which commands reſpect, and ſeems expreſſive of the ſtrength of their in⯑tellectual faculties. Along the coaſt, they are not ſo tall and robuſt, but more corpulent and plegmatic, and have a rounder viſage. In moſt parts of Norway, the air, which the peaſants breathe, is clear, freſh and wholeſome; their diet plain and homely, and as they undergo a great deal of labour, both by ſea and by land, and are naturally of a chearful diſpoſition, they have a conſtant ſeries of good health, and more are found here upwards of 100 years of age, than in any other nation. They are inured to cold and hardſhips from their child⯑hood, and will run about bare-footed on the ice, in the latter end of November. The mountaineer wood-men have their beards often loaded with icicles and their bo⯑ſoms filled with ſnow; and when their naked breaſts are occaſionally expoſed, they ſeem as hairy as their chins. On my travels, ſays Pontoppidan, over the higheſt mountains of Norway, which are covered with ſnow, where houſes are of no ſervice, I have ſeen the peaſants, in great numbers, do the work of horſes, and indeed they ſeem almoſt to equal thoſe animals in ſtrength. I have obſerved, that when they have been in a profuſe ſweat, they have thrown themſelves every half-hour upon the ſnow, to cool and refreſh themſelves, and have even ſucked it, to quench their thirſt. All this they undergo, without the leaſt apprehenſion of a cold or fever, or without murmuring or betraying any diſ⯑content. On the contrary, they go ſinging on merrily [319] all the while, and hold out for nine hours together, at the hardeſt labour immaginable, with incredible chear⯑fulneſs and alacrity. How wiſely has Providence en⯑dowed theſe people with conſtitutions equal to their re⯑ſpective wants! A remarkable inſtance of this may be ſeen on the iſlands near the coaſt, where the peaſants of both ſexes aſſemble by thouſands, about the middle of January, to reap their winter-harveſt from the ocean. At theſe times, every family takes with them five or ſix weeks proviſion, chiefly dried fiſh, keep out at ſea all day and great part of the night by moon-ſhine, in open boats, and, after that, crowd together by ſcores in⯑to little huts, where they lay down in their wet cloaths, and have ſcarce room to turn. Here they repoſe them⯑ſelves the remainder of the night, and the next morn⯑ing return to the ſame laborious employment, with as much pleaſure and chearfulneſs, as if they were going to a merry-making.

The hair and eyes of the Norwegians are lighter than thoſe of moſt other nations, and a dark complexion here, is as rare as a fair complexion in France or Italy; for we find that the clime changes here, and in all northern climes, hares, partridges and other animals, from a dark or brown colour to the fineſt white. The farther we proceed from the Equator, the more is the black colour of the inhabitants loſt. They are ſtill pretty brown above the tropics; but we meet with none that are entirely white, till we get a great way into the [320] temperate zones, and at the extremities of theſe zones, we find the faireſt complexions. The blonde or flaxen complexion of the Norway women, ſtrikes the eye of the admiring traveller, and he can ſcarcely believe, that the female he now beholds and the African he late⯑ly caſt his eyes upon, are of the ſame ſex; but, beyond the temperate zone and where the frigid zone com⯑mences, the inhabitants loſe their fair complexion and grow darker; for as exceſſive heat darkens the ſkin and gives the inhabitants of the torrid zone a tawny com⯑plexion, ſo does exceſſive cold the ſame.

The cold in Norway and Norden by no means ob⯑ſtructs the growth of the body; obvious by the com⯑plete ſtature of the people in theſe countries; whereas the Laplanders, Greenlanders and Samoiedes, are all a ſhort thick-ſet race, and of a dark-brown complexion, certainly occaſioned by the intenſe cold in that climate▪

Daily experience ſhews us, that every nation is, in ſome degree, characterized and diſtinguiſhed by it's particular air, nouriſhment, education and manner of living. The Norwegians are in general dextrous, ac⯑tive, penetrating and ingenious, eſpecially in all kinds of mechanical performances. Every inhabitant is an artizan, and ſupplies his family in all it's neceſſaries with his own manufactures; ſo that there are few hat⯑ters, ſhoe-makers, taylors, tanners, weavers, carpen⯑ters, ſmiths, or joiners by profeſſion; all theſe trades [321] being carried on in every farm-houſe, They never think a boy can be a uſeful member of ſociety, nor a good man, unleſs he is made maſter of all theſe. But theſe dabblers in ſo many trades, it is natural to ſup⯑poſe, can ſeldom excel in anyone branch: it is ſuffi⯑cient, however, that they perform them well enough for their purpoſe. Yet many of theſe mechanical peaſants bring their work to ſuch perfection, that it is hardly diſtinguiſhable from town-made goods. At Hardanger, there are ſeveral country fellows that make their own violins, and ſome of them ſo good, as fit to be played on in a concert. But this genius chiefly leads them to carving in wood all manner of devices, with their tolle-knive, being a ſhort broad knife, of their own forging. Among others, a peaſant, in the beginning of this century, whoſe name was Halvor Fanden, excel⯑led ſo much in this art, that connoiſſeurs would give their weight in ſilver for his carved cups and other works in baſſo-relievo; and in the royal muſeum at Denmark, they are conſidered as their greateſt artificial curioſities. In the ſame muſeum there is a buſt of Chriſ⯑tian V, carved in a certain wood called Been-wood, by a ſhepherd, who in the year 1688, when the King went to Drontheim, ſtood in the road to ſee his Majeſty paſs, and received ſo ſtrong an impreſſion of his face, that he was able to repreſent every lineament and feature to the life, without having ever ſeen the original but once en paſſant. At Arendal, they build ſhips from two to three [322] hundred laſts burden, and all by imitation, without any rules of art.

Formerly, the Norwegian youth, not only the com⯑mon people, but alſo thoſe in a more elevated ſtation, were trained up to wreſtling, riding, ſwimming, throwing the dart, ſcating, climbing ſteep rocks and forging iron. The other parts of their education con⯑ſiſted in writing the Runic character, blowing the horn, and compoſing ſongs and odes; ſo that every Norwegi⯑an peaſant was an artiſt, a gentleman and a poet. It is, in ſome meaſure, the ſame now. Next to ſounding the horn, which is a kind of a haut-boy, they have a muſical inſtrument, which the farmers call lang-leek, having ſix braſs wires ſtretched upon a ſounding board about four feet long and ſix inches broad; but, though the peaſants prefer it to a guitar or lute, it will hardly pleaſe a delicate ear. But, the violin is their moſt ad⯑mired inſtrument, and is ſometimes uſed in the houſe of mourning, where they will ſit at the head of the coffin, playing all day long, perhaps to drive away me⯑lancholy. They do the ſame, when the corps is carry⯑ing to church in a boat, which is frequent in the weſtern parts. But this is not ſo ſtrange, as an old and ſuperſti⯑tious cuſtom in ſome places in the dioceſe of Chriſtian⯑ſand, where they aſh the dead perſon why he died? If his wife was not kind to him, or his neighbours civil to him▪ In ſome places in Lardal, in the dioceſe of B [...]gen, every one that comes into the room where the [323] corps is, falls on his knees at the coffin and begs for⯑giveneſs of the deceaſed, if he has ever offended him. Their clergy frequently tell them of the abſurdity of this, it being too late to aſk forgiveneſs; but ſo uſed are they to their old cuſtoms, that they find a difficulty to break it off.

The capacity of the Norwegians for literature is not inferior to their ſkill in mechanics and bodily exerciſes. Had they the ſame opportunities for improvements, as their neighbours in Denmark, they would make an amazing progreſs. We may judge of this, by the children in Norway, who take their learning extremely faſt, and are capable, in a very ſhort time, to get a book by heart and comprehend the meaning of it. Every Norwegian peaſant, eſpecially the freeholder that can pay his taxes, governs his houſe and poſſeſſi⯑ons with as much power and authority as a nobleman: no one directs or controuls him. This gives them a certain freedom and generoſity of mind; and if the li⯑beral arts had as much encouragement here as in ſome other countries, they would undoubtedly make a con⯑ſiderable progreſs in a ſhort time, and among a number of any other nation, the Norwegians would be found of a ſuperior genius in the republic of letters. It is found by experience, that thoſe who live further up the coun⯑try, near Drontheim, are the moſt ingenious. In con⯑verſing with the peaſants about any ſpiritual or tempo⯑ral concerns, within their knowledge, we find them [324] provided with judicious and pertinent anſwers; their queſtions are generally clear and rational, and their an⯑ſwers diſcover great penetration and knowledge, ſu⯑perior to many who have had all the advantages of edu⯑cation.

Another good quality obſervable in the Norwegians is civility and a courteous behaviour, being very oblig⯑ing and willing to ſerve others. In this they do not fall ſhort of the politeneſs of the French, whom they reſemble more than any other nation. Their behavi⯑our is not affected but quite natural, and may be look⯑ed upon as the particular genius of the country. The Norwegian peaſant, in point of politeneſs, exceeds the Daniſh burgher; and the Norwegian burgher, eſpeci⯑ally of the mercantile claſs, in this reſpect, equals at leaſt the Daniſh nobility. As to fidelity and honeſty they are not leſs practiſed here than in other countries. In ſhort, the Norwegians, ſays Moleſworth, are a faith⯑ful, honeſt people, and in their loyalty, the throne of Denmark has found it's chief ſupport. As a proof of their valour and fidelity to their king and country, I will only, ſays Pontoppidan, give an inſtance or two in a late war; I mean the zeal of thoſe citizens that fired their own houſes to diſlodge the enemy; and the pea⯑ſants who diſperſed themſelves about, in the rocks and defiles, with their fire-arms, to cut off their retreat and did not ſuffer them to paſs, without being remarkably weakened. In the year 1716, when the Swediſh army [325] had invaded Norway, whilſt one of the governors of a fortification on the frontiers, was lying near a na⯑vigable river, with his corps, which was greatly weak⯑ened, waiting for freſh tranſports from Denmark, there came a number of grey-headed farmers to him and of⯑fered themſelves, with all their accoutrements, as vo⯑lunteers for his Majeſty's ſervice. There came, one day particularly, a body of 300 ſuch volunteers, from Tellemarken, who were vigorous and in good ſpirits, with fire-arms and three weeks proviſion in their knap⯑ſacks, and thus accoſted him, ‘Good day, father; we hear that you have got ſtrange unwelcome gueſts, that you want to get rid off; if you have a mind to make uſe of us, only tell what we are to do, and you ſhall ſee that we are men.’ It was theſe peaſants who were commanded by Captain Coucheron, in the action of Krog-wood, when the Swedes endeavoured to force a paſſage through, and were repulſed with the loſs of 200 men; but the Norwegians, who were well poſted, did not loſe a man.

The ſkill of the Norwegians in maritime affairs is well known; they have a genius for all warlike em⯑ployments, are not eaſily repulſed, but will ſupport the honour of their country and undergo the greateſt fa⯑tigues with very little reſt or nouriſhment. The Nor⯑wegian army conſiſts of 30,000 effective men, beſides 14 or 15,000 ſailors, which all Europe can hardly match.

[326]It is a pity that ſuch hardy veterans ſhould ever quar⯑rel among themſelves. In former times they would carry their revengeful diſpoſition ſo far, that in a party-quarrel the common peaſants, would ſtand upon their point of honour and fight it out with their knives; and before they began, would hook themſelves to⯑gether by their belts, then draw their knives and would, not be parted, till one or the other was mortally wound⯑ed or killed. This brutiſh cuſtom prevailed in Nor⯑way, till about the middle of the laſt century, to ſuch a degree, that they ſay, when a peaſant with his family was invited to a wedding, the wife generally took her huſband's ſhrowd with her, becauſe on theſe occaſions, they ſeldom parted before they were intoxicated with liquor, the conſequence of which was fighting and this ſeldom ended without murder. Some of the peaſants who have put away theſe inſtruments and broke them⯑ſelves of this wicked cuſtom, ſtill retain that revenge⯑ful ſpirit and that inſolence and pride which were the promoters of it; however, they make uſe now of a leſs pernicious inſtrument and employ the lawyer's pen in⯑ſtead of a knife. They are very obſtinate and will per⯑ſiſt in their animoſities to the laſt, and if a poor man has it not in his power to purſue his ſuit, his neighbours will often make a collection to enable him to do it.

But with the foregoing fault, there is a commen⯑dable ambition in the Norwegian peaſant, which makes him ſtrive to live independent of his friends; and if his [327] freehold be incumbered he uſes his utmoſt efforts to clear and redeem it. There are many not a little proud of being thought to be deſcended from noble families, and this ridiculous vanity prevents them from marry⯑ing their children very advantageouſly, by ſtanding upon their blood and birth. They are fond of being reſpected and honoured to the utmoſt, and the great complaiſance they ſhew to others is not without a view of having it returned. From the ſame ſource, ſprings the Norwegian's deſire to diſtinguiſh himſelf in his ſtati⯑on, by fine cloaths, an elegant houſe, &c. This is very conſpicuous in moſt trading-houſes, where commerce gives them an opportunity of converſing with foreign⯑ers, eſpecially the Engliſh, whom they chiefly endea⯑vour to imitate, and for want of abilites to equal us in ſplendor, magnificent entertainments, furniture and equipages, a great many ruin themſelves. The Ber⯑gen merchants indeed, who are moſt of them deſcended from the frugal Dutch or Germans, continue ſtill in that way, like good ſober tradeſmen.

But, though the Norwegians endeavour to follow the Engliſh in theſe particulars, and in a conceited opinion of their own country, yet they are very unlike us in friendſhip and hoſpitality; for there is no country in the world, where the people are ſo hoſpitable, liberal and ſo willing to ſerve and oblige ſtrangers, as they are in Norway. A traveller is ſeldom ſuffered to pay for his lodging, which may partly proceed from the [328] few perſons who viſit thoſe parts; they therefore think it a duty to treat the ſtranger, as well as it is in their power, and look upon it as an honour done them, if he accepts of their civilities. Notwithſtanding all this, the peaſant never gives the upper end of the table to the greateſt gueſt, he thinking that place belongs only to himſelf. They keep open houſe for three weeks at Chriſtmas, ſet out the beſt things they can afford and load their tables during the whole time. Nay, on Chriſtmas-eve, they invite the very birds to the feſtivi⯑ty, and hang out at the barn-doors, on a pole, an un⯑threſhed ſheaf of corn, for that purpoſe.

As the Norw [...]gian thus contributes to the good and happineſs of others, ſo he alſo endeavours to make him⯑ſelf chearful and always to appear good-natured. Envy and diſcontent are here baniſhed to the rich and great, whoſe temporal advantages are rather a plague than a comfort. The little the common people have to in⯑dulge in, reliſhes and agrees with them and they enjoy it, though it be plain and homely; except it be in public companies and entertainments, where they are rather too much inclined to drink. But they are tem⯑perate in their daily meals, have no ſuperfluity and, therefore, moſt of them live to a great age; many to 80 or 90, ſome to 100 or 120 years. In the year 1751, in the dioceſe of Aggerhuus only, 136 perſons had reached 80 years of age, 41 had reached 90 and four were upwards of 100. In 1733, when Chriſtian VI. [329] and his royal conſort viſited their Norwegian dominions, they took up their reſidence in the houſe of Lieutenant Colonel Colbiorſen, in Frederickſhald, who was deſir⯑ous of diverting his royal gueſts, with what they call a jubilee wedding. This was performed in the garden under tents pitched for that purpoſe.

There were four couple married, being country-peo⯑ple invited from the adjacent parts, and out of all theſe were none under 100 years of age, who all of them lived ſeveral years afterwards. Theſe eight married people made themſelves exceedingly merry on the oc⯑caſion, and danced with green wreaths on their heads, which brides always wear on their wedding-day. This is ſo extraordinary an inſtance of longevity, as is not to be met with in the hiſtory of any other country.

Though Norway is in general a very healthy country, yet it is not exempted from it's peculiar diſeaſes. Among the diſeaſes that moſt appear in the dioceſe of Bergen, which is the moſt unhealthful ſpot in all Norway, is a kind of itch, probably owing to the peo⯑ple eating a great quantity of fat fiſh; it is a kind of leproſy that breaks out in ugly boils on the face. They have alſo a diſeaſe called allevilde; which ſeizes the pa⯑tient at firſt with violent ſhooting pains, flying from one part of the body to another, and often breaking out into ſores and ulcers. Another is begavning, a kind of epilepſy, but ſeldom ſo violent as in other countries, [330] which ſome attribute to the eider-down beds they lie on. They have cures however for them all, except a cer⯑tain fever, which the peaſants call landſarſo [...], which appears ſeldom, but is contagious and epidemic; it is ſomething like the diſtemper which ſoldiers are apt to catch when encamped on damp places: it is malignant and painful, and when it rages, carries off great num⯑bers.

We will now ſpeak of their food and manner of liv⯑ing. In the article of diet there is a great difference between thoſe who live in the country and the inhabi⯑tants of trading-towns, a great part of which conſiſt of Danes, Germans, Dutch and Engliſh, who make their bread and dreſs their victuals in the Daniſh faſhion. They have almoſt all ſorts of proviſions here in perfec⯑tion, except butchers meat, which is not very plentiful. As for wild-fowl, all ſorts of game and all kinds of fiſh, except carp, they have, in as great abundance as in any other country in Europe. Milk is very good and rich, and as to wines, ſpices, &c, greater quantities of theſe are imported than there is occaſion for, or good economy requires. Moſt merchants live here in a more elegant manner than the nobleſſe of other countries. All kinds of wines are ſo common in Norway, that it may be queſtioned whether more is not conſumed there in private families, than even in the wine-coun⯑tries.

[331]The peaſant in Norway, as in other places, keeps cloſe to the cuſtoms and manner of living of his fore⯑fathers, and as he follows them in other things, ſo does he in his modes of eating and drinking. Bread, which is the chief ſupport of life, is not made of rye, among the peaſants, except on feſtivals, but of oatmeal, and in flat round cakes, extremely thin and large as a ſmall diſh, and they call it flad-brod; it much reſembles our ſea-biſcuits and will keep a year, if put in a dry place. Some reckon the oldeſt to be the beſt, and in former times, ſhe was eſteemed a good houſewife that ſaved for her ſon's wedding, a piece of bread that ſhe had baked for his chriſtening.

When grain is ſcarce, as it ſometimes happens to be after a ſevere winter, the peaſants are obliged to have recourſe to an old cuſtom, as a diſagreeable but ſure method of preſerving life. Their bread, in time of ſcarcity, is thus made. They take the back of the fir-tree, boil it and dry it before the fire, then grind it to meal and mix a little oatmeal with it. It has a bitter and reſinous taſte, and does not afford much nouriſhment; but even in the moſt plentiful times they will occaſion⯑ally eat it, that they may be prepared againſt a time of ſcarcity, which does not happen once in a century. In the province of Bergen, which is the moſt barren, there is leaſt reaſon to complain, as they import a great deal of grain from Denmark and places round the Baltick and keep their magazines full. Such Norwegians as [332] live by the ſea-ſide, like the Icelanders and Finlaps, eat dried ſtock-fiſh by way of bread.

The peaſants make themſelves a kind of haſty-pud⯑ding of oatmeal and barley meal, which they call ſoup, and in which they will ſometimes boil a pickled herring or a half-ſalted mackrell or ſalmon.

They are better provided in Norway with freſh fiſh than in moſt countries. They have alſo plenty of growſe, partridges, hares, red-deer, rain-deer, &c. They alſo kill cows, ſheep and goats, for winter-ſtock, which they pickle, cut in thin ſlices, dry in the wind and eat like hung-beef. This they call ſkarke, and it requires a ploughman's ſtomach to digeſt it. Their general drink is ſmall beer in winter, milk and water in ſummer, and good ſtrong beer at Chriſtmas; and, they are fond of ſmoking tobacco.

They all wear a hat ſlapped all round, or a little, brown, grey or black cap on their heads; this laſt is a ſort of quarter-cap, made quite round and the ſeams are ornamented with black ribbands. They have ſhoes of a peculiar faſhion, without heels or ſoles, which con⯑ſiſt of two pieces, the upper leather, which ſets cloſe to the foot, to which the other is joined in a great many plaits or folds. In winter, and when they travel, they wear a ſort of half-boots, that reach up to the calves of their legs; theſe are laced on one ſide ſomething like a Roman buſkin. When they travel on the rocks in the ſnow, that they may not ſink too deep, they put on what they call truvieres, which are round like the hoop of a ſmall barrel, worked acroſs with twigs or wicker, and this keeps them up; but as this way of travelling is troubleſome, when they have a long way to go, they put on ſcates about as broad as the foot, but ſix or eight feet long, and pointed before; theſe are covered underneath with ſeals ſkin, ſo that the ſmooth grain of the hair turns backward towards the heel, ſuch as they travel with in Lapland. With theſe ſnow-ſkates they [334] run about on the ſnow as well as they can upon the ice, and faſter than any horſe can go; with which the corps of ſoldiers, called keir-lobere, or ſcaters, in time of war, march with great expedition like the Huſſars.

A Norway peaſant never wears a neckcloth or any thing of the kind, except when he is dreſſed; for his neck and breaſt are always open, and he ſuffers the ſnow to beat into his boſom, which he eſteems an orna⯑ment; but on the contrary, he covers the veins in his wriſt cloſe, to keep them warm, binding them round with a woolen fillet, which goes ſeveral times round the wriſt, and is ſuppoſed to contribute to their ſtrength. About their body they wear a broad leather belt, orna⯑mented with convex braſs plates; to this belt hangs a braſs chain, which holds their tolle-knive, or their large knife, gimlet and other tackle.

The womens dreſs has likewiſe it's diſtinctions; when at church and genteel aſſemblies, they wear jackets laced cloſe, with leather girdles and ſilver ornaments about them, worth ſixteen or twenty rix-dollars. They wear alſo a ſilver chain, three or four times round the neck, with a gilt medal hanging at the end of it. Their handkerchiefs and caps are almoſt covered with ſmall ſilver, braſs and tin-plate buttons, and large rings ſuch as they wear on their fingers, to which they hang again a parcel of ſmall ones, which look brilliant and make a gingling noiſe when they move.

[335]A maiden bride has her hair platted, and hung as full as poſſible with ſuch kind of trinkets, as alſo her clothes. For this purpoſe they get all the ornaments together that they can, the more the better, and with theſe belts, buckles, buttons, plates, rings, &c. ſhe makes a groteſque figure, not much to the advan⯑tage of her perſon.

In ſome trading-cities, eſpecially at Bergen and Chriſtiana, they have begun to build ſtone houſes, but their houſes in general are built of fir and pine-trees, the whole trunks of which are uſed in building, being laid one upon another, and only chopped even, to make them lie cloſe; at the corners they are mortaiſed, ſo that they never give way. Theſe trunks are left round as they grow, both inſide the houſe and outſide, and are frequently boarded over and painted, which gives them a genteel appearance. The inhabitants of Ber⯑gen do not truſt goods of value, which are not in con⯑ſtant uſe, in their dwelling houſes, but keep them in warehouſes out of the town.

In country-villages, they do not build their houſes adjoining to each other, but in the manner of a great many towns in Switzerland and Holland, every houſe ſtanding by itſelf, with their fields and grounds about them; and there are ſome farm-houſes that look like ſmall villages, but they are generally let to three, four or five families, and frequently conſiſt of ſix, eight or [336] ten ſeparate apartments, and the ſtavburet, or magazine for all the proviſions, is generally placed at a conſiderable diſtance from the dwelling-houſe, for fear of fire. It ſtands very high upon poles, to keep the proviſions dry and preſerve them from mice and other vermin. The kitchen, where they cook and brew, ſtands alſo ſepa⯑rate, as do the barns, hay-lofts, cow-houſes, ſtables and the like. Such a farm has generally a mill belong⯑ing to it, ſituated by ſome rivulet, beſides a ſmith's forge, for every farmer is his own ſmith. At Sund⯑moer and other places in that dioceſe, are frequently ſeen ſome lonely houſes on the tops of high mountains, ſurrounded with rugged and ſteep-projecting rocks, ſo that there are few caſtles ſo inacceſſible; for there is of⯑ten but one way to come at them, which is by ſmall ſteps and here and there ſome wooden pegs fixed; ſo that the aſcent is very dangerous, and few people ven⯑ture up, that are not uſed to them. Up in the coun⯑try, where timber for building is but of very little va⯑lue, there is many a farm-houſe as large and handſome as a nobleman's ſeat. The dwelling-houſe frequently is two ſtories high, having a railed balcony in the front, with handſome windows and the rooms wainſcoted.

Windows in Norway are new things, and ſeldom ſeen in peaſants houſes, for on this ſide of Filefield, in the whole dioceſe of Bergen, it is rare, even among the rich farmers, to ſee what they call a glar-ſtuerne, that is a dwelling-houſe with windows. Houſes without win⯑dows [337] receive their light at the top, which is about the height of the room, where a ſquare hole is made in the middle. In ſummer and fine weather, they leave this hole quite open, but in, winter or wet weather, it is ſtopped up with a wooden frame, over which is ſtrained the inward membrane of ſome animal, which is as ſtrong and tranſparent as a bladder. This light is lifted off, or put on, with a pole, which is reckoned a moſt neceſ⯑ſary piece of furniture in every farm-houſe. Thoſe who come to a farm-houſe, on any important buſineſs, eſpecially courtſhip, muſt lay hold of this pole, before they utter a word. Through this light-hole alſo paſſes the ſmoke, they having no chimnies. This cuſtom, one would ſuppoſe, would be very hurtful to the eyes, but it is not ſo; for the ſmoke, meeting with no obſtruction, ſoon riſes above a man's head, and it ſeldom falls ſo low in theſe rooms as in many that have chimnies.

Under this light-hole generally ſtands a long thick table, and benches of the ſame wood. At the upper end of the table is the hoy-ſoedet, or high ſeat, which be⯑longs to the maſter of the houſe only, who alſo has a little cupboard for his own uſe, in which he locks up all his treaſures. In towns they cover their houſes with tiles; but in the country, they lay over the boards the ſappy bark of birch-trees, which will not decay for many years. They cover this again with turf, three or four inches thick, which keeps the houſe cloſe and warm. Sometimes you may ſee ſervice-trees and al⯑ways [338] good graſs growing upon the turf, which induces the goats to leap about and climb up there for good paſture; and many a farmer mows it and gets a pretty good quantity of hay, from the top of his houſe.

Commerce or trading with foreign nations, has for many ages flouriſhed in Norway. Forty or fifty ſail of merchant-men, deeply laden from different parts of the world, come annually into Bergen harbour in the ſpring, and about 800 ſhips loaded with the produce of the country ſail out of it, and two or three hundred ſail are ſeen lying there at a time. Drontheim, Chriſtiana and Bragnaes, are the moſt conſiderable trading cities of this kingdom, next to Bergen, whoſe trade is very con⯑ſiderable to all parts of Europe, and, on a moderate calculation, brings in more than 100,000 rix-dollars a year. The produce of Norway exported is copper, both wrought and unwrought, iron caſt into cannon, ſtoves and pots, or forged into bars, lead, though but in ſmall quantities, maſts, timber, deal-boards, planks, marble, veeg-ſtone, mill-ſtones, and ſeyl-ſtones. Va⯑rity of fiſh is alſo exported, as cod, herring, ſalmon, ling, flounders, and lobſters; alſo cow-hides, ſea-calf-ſkins, goat-ſkins, ſome dreſſed into cordovan leather; various kinds of coarſe and fine furs of bears, wolves, foxes, beavers, ermins and martens; eider-down and other feathers; butter, tallow, train-oil, tar, juniper and ſeveral other ſorts of berries and nuts; ſalt, allum, glaſs, vitriol and pot-aſhes. All the above-named [339] products of Norway, (fiſh, timber and metals excepted) may, upon a well-founded calculation, amount to three millions of rix-dollars yearly.

This nation has a genius for trade and navigation, though, as hath been before obſerved, their ſplendid manner of living in ſome places is an obſtruction to it. Norwegian youths are ſent to Engliſh, French and Dutch merchants' 'counting-houſes, to improve them⯑ſelves and learn the language, and ſome young people go there, from the ſame parts, for a year or two, for a ſimilar purpoſe.

As every inhabitant of Norway is an artiſt, and wants not the aſſiſtance of any profeſſed mechanic, ſuch trades are not very general. For this reaſon, there are but two cities in the heart of the country, which are Ko⯑ningſberg and Roraas; all the reſt are ſituated upon the coaſt. All fine and curious works are imported from Holland and England; though the Norwegians begin to improve in ſuch articles, and by degrees find the advantage of it, eſpecially in joiners and cabinet-maker's work. Agriculture is carried on, more or leſs, every where. Some farmers export their corn, but many more are obliged to buy more than half they uſe, and he is accounted a good farmer, who can grow enough to ſupply his own family. This, in a great meaſure proceeds from the peaſants chooſing rather to work in the woods, or at the fiſheries, than be em⯑ployed [340] in agriculture; but, as they begin now to im⯑prove the waſte grounds more than ever, a little time will make a great alteration. But the Lord of Nature having diſtributed various diſſimilar means of living among different nations, that one may have need of the other, and that one country may diſpoſe of it's ſu⯑perſluities to another, and import other things which it wants at home; I ſay, this conſidered, perhaps things are as well as they ſtand. For, if Norway was to pro⯑duce a ſufficient quantity of corn, ſo as not to want foreign grain, Denmark would not probably know where to diſpoſe of it's ſuperfluity in that commodity. Grazing and breeding cattle is the chief part of the farmer's employment, by which, he not only ſupplies his own wants, but derives a profit, by ſending them to market. In the mountains, the peaſants make gra⯑zing almoſt their only occupation, and ſend their cat⯑tle (as has been obſerved,) to a great diſtance to graſs, in fruitful ſpots, or on the tops of mountains, or in the valleys, or along the rivulets that run between the hills.

Cutting of wood, ſelling and floating of timber, burning charcoal, extracting tar, and every thing that belongs to the woods is the principal employment of the peaſants of Norway. Of woods that belong to the public and are no one's peculiar property, they have the wood, &c. for their labour, and generally ſtay there for ſeveral weeks together, taking as much pro⯑viſion [341] with them, as they can carry, or having it ſent af⯑ter them. When the timber is felled and cut, they are obliged to leave behind a great deal of the lop, to rot. The large timber they draw away in the winter, to the neareſt river or lake, by a horſe or two faſtened to each piece, and in the ſpring, the merchants or their agents are there to receive it, and order it be floated where they think proper. In this work, as well as at the ſaw-mills, and preparing wood for faggots, making ſtaves for caſks, and hoops for the fiſheries, great numbers are employed, and ſtill greater, in burn⯑ing of charcoal. Of charcoal, vaſt quantities muſt be delivered to the melting furnaces within the diſtance of eighteen miles, at a fixed price, viz. at 2s. 8d. Eng⯑gliſh per laſt, each laſt conſiſting of twelve tons, and each ton, two ſeet ſquare. If this privilege was not granted to the mines, it would be impoſſible to work them.

The roots of the fir-trees, which have ſtood ſeveral years in the ground, after the trees have been cut down and thus imbibed the fatneſs of the ſoil, they burn for tar; this they do in the open fields, and carry it to the ſea-port towns for exportation.

Beſides the ſilver, copper, and iron-works which af⯑ford a livelihood to many thouſands in Norway, as hath before been ſhewn, great numbers are employed in na⯑vigation and fiſhing, and maintain themſelves by theſe [342] occupations. Hence all the peaſants that live near the ſea, are ſo accuſtomed to it, from their childhood, that like amphibious animals, they cannot live without row⯑ing or dabbling about in the water. Mr. Leeganger, the miniſter of Karſund, declares, that during the time he had the pariſh of Udſire, which was fifty years, not above ten grown men died aſhore, the reſt having been drowned at ſea.

Hunting, ſhooting and bird-catching, afford ſome of the people of Norway a comfortable livelihood, for every one is at liberty to purſue the game on the wa⯑ters, without controul. The beſt markſmen live in the mountains; but, theſe hunters, in times of diſtreſs, will ſometimes fall upon the farmers, and partly by threats, and partly by begging, oblige them to relieve their neceſſities.

Having now treated of the people in general, their manner of living, employments and occupations, I will cloſe this account of Norway, with ſome few remarks on the nobility and freeholders of the country. Of the nobility, there are but few left, for which this reaſon may be aſſigned, that a nobleman's eſtate has not the privileges belonging to the demeſne of the nobility, longer than it is inhabited by the lord in perſon. For⯑merly, the nobles were very powerful here, and con⯑ſiſted of dukes, earls and barons, but they are now re⯑duced to a few. Indeed, ſince the ſovereignty of Den⯑mark, [343] ſome Norwegian families have been ennobled whilſt many of the families of the ancient nobility are reduced to the claſs of peaſants. Theſe however, are not wanting in family pride, and pick up all the intel⯑ligence they can by tradition, &c. of their pedigree, and publiſh it in ſome of their funeral ſermons, where the whole genealogy is generally traced, and, the eſ⯑curcheons preſerved in ſome of their houſes, as a mark of diſtinction.

Excluſive of theſe foibles, every freeholder in Nor⯑way has vanity enough to conſider himſelf as noble, by right of inheritance. There are ſeveral peaſants, who now inhabit the houſe which they can make appear their anceſtors poſſeſſed and inhabited for 3 or 400 years before them; for, according to the Norwegian law, (which differs in this from the Daniſh,) no free⯑hold can be alienated by ſale, or any other way from him, who has the right of inheritance. If he ſells it and has it not in his power to redeem it, he muſt de⯑clare every tenth year at the ſeſſions, that the want of money is the only reaſon; and, if he ever ſurmounts that difficulty, or if he or his heirs, to the ſecond or third generation, be able to redeem it, then he who inhabits it is conſidered only as a poſſeſſor, pro tempore, and muſt turn out immediately, and give up the premiſes to the right inheritor. For this reaſon, they keep a ſtrict account of their pedigree, that when occaſion of⯑fers, they may have recourſe to it.

[344]For any thing we have to ſay reſpecting the govern⯑ment of this country, we muſt refer the reader to our account of Denmark.