CHAP. VII. Tranſylvania.

TRANSYLVANIA is environed on all ſides with mountains, whence it enjoys a temperate air and wholeſome river waters. It is both woody and mountainous; yet the ſoil in the vallies is fertile, and produces every neceſſary of life. The mountains run from north to ſouth, branching out likewiſe eaſt and weſt. The Carpathian mountains divide it from Poland on the north, Moldavia on the eaſt, Wala⯑chia and a part of Hungary on the ſouth, and on the weſt by the principal provinces of Hungary.

The province of Tranſylvania extends from 45 deg. to 48 deg. north latitude; and from the 22d to the the 25th deg. eaſt longitude, from the meridian of London: being about 40 leagues in length from north to ſouth, and about as many from eaſt to weſt.

[4]The air is exceſſively hot in ſummer, but, notwith⯑ſtanding, it is reckoned very wholeſome. The water which comes from ſome of the ſprings is accounted unwholeſome, on account of the pernicious quality of the mineral ſubſtances through which it paſſes. The famous river Atlanta takes its riſe in the Carpa⯑thian mountains, and falls into the Danube. It is the boundary of the Ottoman and German empires.

Beſides this, there are the Meriſh and Samos, two large rivers, both which diſembogue themſelves into the Teyſſe.

There are ſeveral mineral ſprings, ſome cold and ſome hot; and a ſingular petrifying ſpring, that re⯑ſolves every kind of wood into a kind of a congealed ſubſtance, reſembling ſtone.

In this country there are four different kinds of in⯑habitants; the firſt originally Saxons; the ſecond Huns; the third Walachians; and the fourth Cinga, or gypſies. Theſe laſt pitch their tents in all conve⯑nient parts of the country; are in fact a ſort of licenſed vagrants, and, as in England, deceive the credulous part of the fair ſex, who are fond of the flat⯑tery of fortune-tellers.

It is ſingular that throughout the world, human na⯑ture ſhould be ſo ſtrongly impregnated with a deſire to know future events; and that nothing can ſtem the cre⯑dulity of both ſexes, whilſt the juvenile paſſions are warm; that ſatisfaction of being told ſome fable from the ca⯑binet of genius, whence the roving diviner draws the ſource of a caſual ſubſiſtance, or rather exiſtence, by the futile productions of a fantaſtic brain, ſtored with luxuriant imagery to ſolace the giddy youth of either ſex, who gladly pays the impoſtor's price, and for years to come lays up the tale as part of the creed of fortune, nor dares to overtop the ſeer's ſage advice!

The eſtabliſhed religion in Tranſylvania, is the Ro⯑man-catholic, as in all the reſt of the Emperor's here⯑ditary dominions; but nevertheleſs there are great numbers of Lutherans, Calviniſts, and Proteſtants of all denominations, who are great ſufferers on account of their religion. The ſeverity exerciſed towards them, has been the occaſion of many inſurrections; but we ſee the day approaching, and probably not far diſtant when the dark receſſes of bigotry, and the tattered cloak of religion will be finally removed from the Imperial dominions: the late Joſeph has done much, [6] and it is to be hoped the preſent Leopold will do more; but we ſhall ſpeak more of this hereafter, in deſcribing of Auſtria.

It may not be unneceſſary to ſay that Tranſylvania, is annexed to the kingdom of Hungary; conſequently ſubject to the Emperor of Germany. This province has been conquered by the Hungarians ſo early as the year 1004.

But it is alſo neceſſary to obſerve that the govern⯑ment of Tranſylvania is totally different from that of Hungary, although united under one crown; which has induced us to mention it ſeparately, as appears by the approbata, concordata, and diplomata, or joint conſent of prince and people, formed into a kind of an Ariſtocratical government: which is carried on in the name of the prince and nobility by the diet, the office of ſtate, the royal government, the exchequer, the aſſembly of courts, the tribunals of juſtice, and the magiſtrates.

The diets meet by ſummons from the prince at the capital, and are divided into an upper and lower table. The firſt conſiſts of the prelates, counts, and barons; and the ſecond, of the king's council, the deputies and tribunes: and at both, ſits a preſident, who re⯑preſents the ſovereign, and draws up and ſends the Emperor their deliberations for his ſanction or royal aſſent.

[7]The high government which reſides at Herman⯑ſtadt, ſuperintends the affairs of the principality, whether temporal or ſpiritual. At the head of it is a governor, with the commiſſioners of the three nations, catholicks, the reformed and proteſtants. The po⯑lice of the whole nation is divided into ſeven grand tribunals, each governed by a count, and four inferior ones, under the juriſdiction of judges or magiſtrates.

The revenue of this country ariſes from the cuſtoms on metals, minerals, royal demeſnes and confiſcations. Hermandſtadt is the capital, which is pleaſantly ſitu⯑ated on the banks of the river Cibin, about 80 miles N. E. of Temeſwaer. This is a royal free town, ſeated in a plain, being large and well built, and for⯑tified with a double wall and deep moat, which ren⯑der it, in general, very ſtrong.

It is alſo the ſeat of government, as was before ob⯑ſerved, and is governed by the royal chamber, the tribunal of appeal and the diet; beſides which the commanding general and royal governor of the Saxon nation have their reſidence in this place.

The church of the Lutherans here is built, as near as can be, on the model of St. Peter's, at Rome. There is a Gymnaſium likewiſe. It is a biſhopric. Cronſtadt or Corunna, is the next in magnitude, which is 50 miles N. E. of Hermanſtadt: beſide theſe, [8] there are ſix or ſeven ſmaller cities and towns of little note.

Cattle, fowls, and other animals, are very nume⯑rous and cheap in Tranſylvania; and the wild bees are a peculiar branch of commerce in this country, as great quantities of honey and wax are exported to all parts of Europe from them.

The only manufactures of this country, beſides thoſe of iron, tin and copper, are cloth, tallow, wine, mead, and rock-ſalt.

The manners and cuſtoms of the inhabitants of Tran⯑ſylvania are rather ſingular; for at their funerals the women, in the true ſtile of Hibernian ſorrow, ſet up a howl, and follow the corps to the grave, with all the apparent marks of grief, till the body is interred; and then they ſeverally greet each other with perhaps a ſmiling countenance, or a hearty laugh, and it is not improbable ſome of the mock mourners may aſk who the deceaſed was! Thus they are ſorrowful, and lamentably oppreſſed externally, as ſhewing marks of deſpair and agony, for the loſs of one whom per⯑haps they do not know!

The cloathing of the Tranſylvanians, is uſually a waiſtcoat, over which is a ſhort looſe coat lined with fur: their breeches and ſtockings are of one piece, [9] and ſit cloſe to the leg and thigh, with clogs ſhod with iron, and on the head a cap like that of an Engliſh light dragoon, lined with fur. And like the Germans, they never become acquainted with any one till they have got drunk together.

They are very fond of muſic and dancing, as well as various ſports which exerciſe the agility of the body. And there is no peaſant, be his ſtation ever ſo low, but what pretends to be the deſcendant of ſome great family. Thus a Scotchman, a Welchman, and a Tranſylvanian will equally agree on the topic of noble anceſtry, flatter themſelves, or at leaſt each other, that they are men of honour; and will aſſume a title very unſuitable to the rank or mean occupation they are neceſſarily engaged in; which ridiculous idea muſt cauſe every honeſt Engliſhman to exerciſe his muſcu⯑lar features in a hearty fit of laughter.

Tranſylvania is part of the ancient Dacia, the inha⯑bitants of which long employed the Roman arms be⯑fore they could be ſubdued. Their deſcendants ſtill retain a military character. The population of the country is not aſcertained. But it is aſſerted by moſt of the modern writers that this country can produce an army of 30,000 men, conſequently the whole number muſt be very conſiderable.

[10]At preſent its military force is reduced to ſix regi⯑ments of 1500 men each; but it is well known that during the laſt war, in which the Auſtrians were en⯑gaged, the Tranſylvanians did great ſervices.

The various revolutions in their government prove their impatience under ſlavery; and though the treaty of Carlowitz, in 1690, gave the ſovereignty of Tran⯑ſylvania to the houſe of Auſtria, yet the natives enjoy what they call a loyal ariſtocracy, which their ſove⯑reign does not think proper to invade.

Although Hermandſtadt is its only biſhoprick, yet it is to all appearance quite ſufficient; as the natives, at preſent, ſeem very little inclined to concern themſelves with religion, learning, or any ſcience human or di⯑vine.

CHAP. VIII. Hungarian Illyricum, or the Kingdoms of Sclavonia, Croa⯑tia, and Dalmatia.

MODERN Sclavonia is bounded by the Drave and Danube, which ſeparates it from Hun⯑gary towards the N. and E. by the river Save, which divides it from Servia and Boſnia on the S. and by Styria on the W. is computed to be upwards of 200 miles long, and about 70 broad: and lies between 16 and 22 deg. of E. long, and 45 and 47 deg. of N. latitude.

The air is good, the country for the moſt part level, and not much incumbered with woods and moun⯑tains, but exceedingly well watered by thoſe noble rivers, the Danube, Save, and Drave, beſides many leſſer ſtreams; from whence we may conclude it to be a very fruitful country.

The bounds of the reſpective diviſions or counties of this province have been ſo frequently altered, as being a frontier between Turkey and Chriſtendom, that it is impoſſible to lay down its exact dimenſions.

[12]The chief or capital town of the firſt diviſion, called the Banat, is that of Poſega, or Roſega, ſituated in lat. 45 deg. N. on the river Oriana, 120 miles W. of Bel⯑grade. It conſiſts of about 1000 houſes, and is a place of good trade. Walpo is the next town of note; Eſſeck next, famous for its bridge, near the con⯑fluence of the Drave and the Danube, which has al⯑ready been deſcribed in treating of Hungary. Peter⯑waradin, Carlowitz, Semlim, and Gradiſka, are places well known in the late war between the Turks and Imperialiſts.

The natives of Sclavonia are of a good ſtature and ſound conſtitution, well adapted to laborious employ⯑ments. The reaſon aſſigned by ſeveral authors, that Hungary, Tranſylvania, Sclavonia, and other nations ſubject to the houſe of Auſtria, in thoſe parts contain a ſurpriſing variety of people, differing in name, lan⯑guage, and manners, is, becauſe liberty here made its laſt ſtand againſt the Roman arms, which by degrees forced the remains of the different nations they had conquered into thoſe quarters.

The thickneſs of woods, the rapidity of rivers, and the ſtrength of the country in Sclavonia, favoured their reſiſtance: and their deſcendants, notwithſtand⯑ing the power of the Turks, Auſtrians, Hungarians, and Poles, ſtill retain the ſame ſpirit of independency. Without minding the arrangements of Europe, they [13] are quiet under the government that leaves them moſt at liberty. That they are generous as well as brave, ap⯑pears from their attachment to the houſe of Auſtria, which, till the laſt two or three wars, never was ſen⯑ſible of their value and valour.

The Sclavonians formerly gave ſo much work to the Roman army, that it is thought the word ſlave took its original from them, on account of the great numbers of them that were carried into bondage, ſo late as the reign of Charlemagne.

Though Sclavonia yields neither in beauty nor fer⯑tility to Hungary and Tranſylvania; yet the ravages of war are ſtill viſible in the face of the country, which lies in a great meaſure unimproved.

The navigable rivers which paſs through this pro⯑vince, render it exceedingly proper, to carry on trade between the German empire and Turkey. But the misfortune is, that notwithſtanding theſe frontier-coun⯑tries are bleſſed with all the advantages that nature can beſtow upon them, yet great part of them are of⯑ten a perfect deſart, and only conſiderable for the ſtrength of their towns, and the number of their gar⯑riſons, which are always pernicious to trade and huſ⯑bandry; for none will attempt to eſtabliſh manufac⯑tures or improve their lands, where the ſoldier perhaps will probably reap the fruits of their labour.

[14]The whole province being now under the dominion of the Emperor, the Roman-catholic is the eſtabliſh⯑ed religion, though Greeks and Jews are tolerated. There are two biſhoprics, that of Roſega and Zagrab: but no univerſities.

The inhabitants are compoſed of Servians, Radzi⯑ans, Croats, Walachians, Germans, Hungarians, and a great number of other nations as the military muſter-roll ſpecifies, whenever the Emperor has occaſion for their ſervices.

In the late war with the Porte, this province was over-run by the Turks, and ravaged with all the ter⯑rors of war; ſo that it will be many years before it re⯑covers its loſſes in the articles of building, furniture, &c. But with reſpect to the face of the country little injury can be ſuſtained there, as the animal verdure and agricultural induſtry of the huſbandman ſupply every defect occaſioned by the untimely incurſions of the enemy's troops.

Croatia lies between the 15th and 17th degrees of eaſt longitude, and the 45th and 47th of north la⯑titude. It reaches from the river Drave to the Adri⯑atic, turning eaſtward on Sclavonia and Bothnia; weſtwardly on Stiria and Carniola. It is 80 miles in length, and about 70 broad.

[15]The chief towns are Carlſtadt or Carlowitz, the capital of Imperial Croatia, ſituated on the ri⯑ver Culp, 20 miles ſouthward of the Save; and be⯑ing a frontier-town is tolerably well fortified; Caſta⯑novitz, is ſituated on the river Unna, 30 miles weſtward of Gradiſka.

This country is naturally fruitful, producing plenty of corn, wine, and oil, where it is cultivated; but, being a frontier againſt the Turks, it has not yielded much more than would ſupply the neceſſities of the inhabitants of late years.

The people are of a good ſtature; and in their man⯑ners, cuſtoms, language, government, and laws, are modelled exactly like the Sclavonians, who are their neighbours.

They are excellent irregular troops, and as ſuch are famed in modern hiſtory, under the name of Pandoms, and various other deſignations. The truth is, the houſe of Auſtria finds it its intereſt in ſuffering them and the neighbouring nations to live in their own manner. All the ſovereignty exerciſed over them by the Auſtrians, ſeems to conſiſt in the military ar⯑rangements, for bringing them occaſionally into the field.

[16]The Croatians derive their origin from the Sclavi, who were the firſt inhabitants of Sclavonia, and an⯑ciently had kings of their own, who were ſtiled kings of Croatia, and tributary to the emperor of the Eaſt. In the 11th century, Croatia devolved to the king of Hungary, and the Croats have continued ever ſince under the dominion of that monarchy, though not without frequent attempts to recover their inde⯑pendency.

Dalmatia, or Hungarian Delmacia as it is uſually called, lies on the upper part of the Adriatic ſea, and conſiſts of five diſtricts, moſt of which are under the generalſhip of Carlſtadt. This country is of very an⯑cient date. Moſt cabinets produce coins and inſcrip⯑tions of the atchievements of its kings previous to the building of Rome, There was a famous city called Dalmatia, which was the capital, and was took and deſtroyed by the Romans about the 597th year after the building of Rome.

Various changes took place, till at length the coun⯑try became ſubject in a great meaſure to the Hun⯑garians: but at preſent the Venetians, Turks, and Raguſans claim part of it. The maritime towns are poſſeſſed by the Republic of Venice. The two latter powers poſſeſs ſome of the interior parts of this king⯑dom, which is now reduced to a province.

[17]The rivers of Dalmatia have no long courſe, but are moſtly navigable. The country is as it were ſtrewed with mountains. The ſoil on them is very fruitful and produces olives, vines, myrtles, and a great variety of palatable and wholeſome vegetables growing upon them, beſides treaſures of gold and ſilver ore within them. It has alſo many fertile plains, and beſides a ſufficiency of horned cattle, feeds large numbers of ſheep. The air is temperate and pure.

The moſt remarkable places are the two following viz. Segna and Ottoſchatz. The firſt is a royal, free town fortified both by nature and art, ſituated near the ſea, in a bleak, mountainous and barren ſoil.

The biſhop of this place is a ſuffragan to the arch⯑biſhop of Spalatro. Here are twelve churches, and two convents. The governor reſides in the old palace called the royal caſtle.

The laſt mentioned town, is a frontier fortification on the river Gatzka. That part of the fortreſs where the governor, and the greateſt part of the garriſon reſide, is ſurrounded with a wall and ſome towers; but the reſt of the buildings, which are but mean, are erected on piles in the water, ſo that one neigh⯑bour cannot viſit another without a boat.

[18]Near Segna dwell the Uſcocs, or Huſcocks, a people who, being galled by oppreſſion, eſcaped out of Turkiſh Dalmatia, from whence they obtained the name of Uſcocs from the word Scoco, which ſignifies a deſerter or run-away. They are alſo called Springers or Leapers, from the agility with which they leap, rather than walk along this rugged, and mountainous country. Some of them live in ſcat⯑tered houſes, and others in large villages. They are a rough ſavage people; large bodied, courageous, and given to rapine; but their viſible employment is grazing.

The dreſs of the native Uſcoc, is rather curious, they wear a coarſe, baize jacket, belted round the waiſt, and generally green; a pair of blue linen trowſers, red ſtockings, and wooden ſhoes in winter, but light ſlippers in ſummer. Their head-attire is a cap of woollen with a taſſel, like our charity-chil⯑dren in England, and a looſe cloak gathered at the neck. Their arms are a long knife in a ſheath, with a long pole. They alſo know perfectly well the uſe of fire arms, but generally prefer a bow and arrows.

The dreſs of the female is a jacket and petticoat, of green baize in winter, or blue linen in ſummer; half-boots and a ſtraw bonnet. The ſuperfluous [19] appendages of dreſs are not here, conſequently the luxury of that article is deemed a matter unworthy the notice of the uncultivated inhabitant.

In their religion, they come neareſt to the Greek church, but ſome are Roman-catholics. They have an arch-biſhop, biſhops, prieſts and monks. The prieſts are not prohibited marriage, but their wives muſt be of a good family, which is only to be diſtin⯑guiſhed for the multiplicity of its flocks and herds. But at her deceaſe they are proſcribed from ſecond marriage. Their children are not baptized till they are adults. None among them go to confeſſion till they are thirty years of age. They are ſtrong pre⯑deſtinarians.

In their language they uſe a dialect of the Wala⯑chian. Literature is not cultivated, conſequently all the refinements of a polite education are unknown to them. Therefore it is not to be wondered at, if they deſpiſe what they deem an unneceſſary taſk. To inſtance this, we need go no further than the natives of our own country, who are as ready to cenſure li⯑terary acquiſitions as the Uſcocs poſſibly can be, if they are without letters themſelves. Nor will the pious Methodiſt, although ſcarcely able to read a text out of the bible, ſcruple to ſay, that he is cer⯑tain all human learning is uſeleſs in expounding the ſacred oracles, and will tramples on thoſe gifts of [20] knowledge, becauſe he is unacquainted with their efficacy and valuable poſſeſſion!

The Hungarian Illyricum produces every neceſſary of life in plenty, and we may add, many of its ſuperfluities alſo. Its chief rivers are the Drave, Save, Danube, Culpa, Unna, and Maraka: all which diſcharge themſelves in the Adriatic ſea. All the inhabitants are of Sclavonian extraction, and, according to the different provinces, divided into a different people.

The principal nations are thoſe already deſcribed, who make as it were one people with the Hungarians. The leſſer parts or ſubdiviſions, ſuch as Sclavonia and Raſcia, have a mixture of Germans and Hungarians amongſt them. The Croats are augmented by colo⯑nies from Germany and Wallachia. The Dalma⯑tians, including the Uſcocs juſt now deſcribed, who may be termed chriſtian refugees from Bulgaria, Servia and Thrace, with the Marulachians or Black Latins, a people much like them, are the other branch of the Huns, faſhioning their manners and ſhaping their attention to the cuſtom of their neareſt neigh⯑bours. However, the Uſcocs may ſtill be ſaid to be partial to their ancient Garb, as has already been de⯑ſcribed.

[21]The Illyrians, in general, apply themſelves to trade, agriculture or war; but to theſe arts the Dalmatians add navigation, in which they are very bold and ex⯑pert.

The only religion publicly tolerated throughout Hungarian Illyria is that of the Roman-catholic. Moſt of the biſhops have Hungarian titles without reve⯑nues. The government of all the countries, deſcribed in this chapter ſeem to have a connexion together, notwithſtanding they are three ſeveral kingdoms or rather large provinces. The government of Sclavo⯑nia and Croatia is connected with that of Hungary and Stiria, being hereditary in the arch-ducal houſe of Auſtria. The government of Dalmatia is three-fold. That of Venetian Dalmatia is adminiſtered by certain proveditors in the name of the republic of Venice. Turkiſh Dalmatia is governed by a Baſhaw, de⯑puted by the grand Seignior: and the government of Raguſan-Dalmatia is lodged in a rector and magiſ⯑trate under the protection of Hungary, Turkey and Venice.

The prelates, nobility, gentry, and royal free Caſ⯑tellans, enjoy the ſame privileges with the Hunga⯑rians. At the diets, which conſiſt of the four orders of each province, all deliberations run in the name of the Sovereign. At the Hungarian diets the ſtates of Illyria appear by repreſentatives.

[22]The adminiſtration of juſtice in Sclavonia and the Bannat of Croatia is the ſame as in Hungary: the free towns having inferior courts, from whence cauſes may be removed to the royal treaſurer. The like alſo have other towns, from whence there lies an ap⯑peal to the Bannat-court, which is ſo called from the ban or prorex, who is preſident thereof. And this man at certain times, hears cauſes brought to him from the goſpenchafts, holding conſultations on other im⯑portant matters: ſometimes when the cauſes require a further inſpection, he diſmiſſes the litigants to the ta⯑bula regalis at Peſt, from whence they may proceed farther to that of the ſeven men.

The public revenue ariſes from contributions, cuſtoms, trade, tillage and grazing: and is divided between the king of Hungary in the perſon of the Emperor of Germany, the republic of Venice, the grand ſignior and the Raguſian ſtates, according to the extent of their ſeveral dominions.

The military force of the Hungarian Illyrians is very conſiderable, and, when in a collective body, muſters at leaſt an hundred thouſand able troops, fit to endure the hardſhips of a campaign in any quarter of the globe. The late emperor Joſeph II. highly applauded the perſonal bravery and intrepidity of the army collected from thoſe parts, as they were well ſuited to oppoſe the ferocity of the Turks, who are [23] in battle frantic to excel each other in the honours of the field; upon a ſuppoſition that he who dies in the bed of honour, in defence of his religion, king, and country, directly partakes of the paradiſe of the bleſs⯑ed in the regions of life beyond the grave.

Though the peculiar happineſs of our government leads every thinking ſubject to diſcloſe freely his ſenti⯑ments, as far as he may judge them conducive to the na⯑tural welfare; yet in ſpeaking of public affairs, the mind ought in a peculiar manner to be diveſted of all pre⯑poſſeſſion, or it can anſwer no end but to adopt or confirm a principle, which, though true, loſes its charms by being founded in prejudice.

If the purſuit of wiſdom and virtue is the proper buſineſs of life, we ought to examine before we pro⯑nounce ſentence, and always to be diffident, where we have not had opportunities of knowledge. I am very ſenſible that even general reflections on political intereſt belong to thoſe who are grown grey in expe⯑rience, rather than for tranſient ſpectators.

How can it be imagined in an age in which cor⯑ruption abounds not in England only, but in every country, that only virtuous men ſhould be in office? To rail at them, without conſidering the corruption of mankind in general, muſt render the complainant ſuſ⯑pected [24] of diſcontent, becauſe he is not in office him⯑ſelf.

When the influence of the crown preponderates and the meaſures which are purſued do not imme⯑diately produce all the good we fondly expected: the ſubjects who do not receive any pecuniary advan⯑tages from government, (for others have generally the wit to hold their tongues) are apt to cry out againſt the court, or againſt the miniſter, forgetting that the true ſource of national calamities in a free ſtate is the venality and impiety of the people.

I ſhall cloſe this chapter with a remark on poliſhed ſtates, in order to contraſt theſe with the foregoing countries which are ſcarcely yet civilized.

The paſſage of a merchant from one country to ano⯑ther in purſuit of commercial affairs, ought not to be conſidered in the ſame light as the travels of a man of letters, in ſearch of arts or learning; but if in the courſe of their obſervations, they have ſupported one common ſpirit of national affection; in proportion to their advantages of education and natural abilities, the effect will be in a great degree ſimilar. Their own country muſt neceſſarily become the dearer to them according as they diſcover the ſuperiority it en⯑joys in laws and government above other nations.

[25]Being thus excited by a generous emulation, in⯑ſtead of bringing home the vices of other countries, they will ſtrive to plant the virtues which are more peculiar to foreign climes and not the proper growth of their own ſoil.

The ravages of time, the ruins of cities, the deſo⯑lation of countries, the tyranny of kings, the folly and iniquity of ſubjects in ſelling themſelves like beaſts to the ſlaughter; with all the pernicious effects of arbitary power, muſt in a ſerious mind draw re⯑flections on the uncertainty of human affairs.

By tracing theſe events, as near as poſſible to their ſource, the heart will be lifted up to the great Au⯑thor of nature, and adopt a conſiſtent principle con⯑cerning the general law of his moral government, by obſerving that vice is ever productive of miſery.

Though the diſpenſations of Providence are ſome⯑times incomprehenſible, yet this ought not to weaken a ſteady perſuaſion, that virtue is in every region, and under every government, acceptable to him. "That what he delights in muſt be happy," however the face of things may appear. And to check every fond preſumption of independency, though we graſp the fleeting moments, it is but as to-morrow, when a curtain will be drawn over all the glories as well as the miſeries of this world.

[26]In the mean while, whether we go abroad or remain at home, enjoy a profuſion or mediocrity of the gifts of Providence, we are travelling to another country. Our nobleſt ſcience, our higheſt accompliſhment and ſupreme felicity, is the knowledge and obſervance of that compaſs whoſe needle points to our proper home; to thoſe regions where millions of bleſſed ſpirits in⯑habit: where the eye will be ſatisfied with ſeeing, the underſtanding with knowledge, and the heart with delights, of which this world can give but faint ideas.

Let us not deſpiſe therefore, the uncultivated tribes of the countries juſt now deſcribed, from a ſuppo⯑ſition that we are of a ſuperior order of mortals, or have a prior right to the attention of the Deity: for as in every nation he that doth the will of God is ac⯑cepted; it is not to be underſtood that this will is a particular ſyſtem laid down by men; but it is to be underſtood to ſerve one another in brotherly love, or as a celebrated author ſtiles it "public love." Then, of courſe, we ſhall adore that Being who hath done all things for his good pleaſure.

In a word, whether we are hackneyed in the paths of gain and ambition; or purſuing the delights of a philoſophic and religious caſt of thought, life ſtill ebbs out much faſter than we are aware of, or can eaſily diſcover; or even to deal fairly with ourſelves to ac⯑knowledge. [27] But a day, an hour employed in the exerciſe of reaſon and the practice of religion is, upon the whole, preferable to an age waſted in fooliſh pur⯑ſuits which riſe no higher than this periſhable world.

CHAP. I. Of the Country, Climate, Productions, and Polity.

The air in the ſouthern provinces is temperate, and healthful, and the ſoil extremely fruitful; but towards the north, it is very cold, and ſevere in the winter, and the land by far leſs prolific, producing none of the fruits of the warmer climates, or the oils or wines which are ſo plentiful in the ſouth. The open or level parts enjoy a different air from the mountainous; and the deep, moiſt and marſhy places feel different from the more elevated, dry and ſandy parts: hence alſo, the produce of the fields, gardens, and trees, ripen at different times in one place to what they do in another. Formerly Germany was very woody, but it has now few of thoſe valu⯑able foreſts that were it's former boaſt, ſo that the natives figuratively feel the evil effect of the prodi⯑gality of their anceſtors, who wantonly cut down the woods to ſupply themſelves with fuel, and to build houſes; inſtead of raiſing the former out of the coal pits, or making bricks of the latter.

[30]The productions of Germany are very numerous; and its agriculture is every day improving; thus it is rendered annually more fertile, rich, and beautiful. It yields all kinds of grain in plenty: and many of the American products; tobacco, rice, and ſaffron, are cultivated with great ſucceſs, and every ſpecies of herbs is found in great plenty in the gardens of the curious.

The German wines are known under the denomi⯑tion of Rheniſh, Mozel, Franconian, Neckar, Cocher, and Muſcadel. Lemons, oranges, olives, almonds, figs, and cheſnuts are the productions of the ſouthern parts of Germany, as well as of France, Spain, or Ita⯑ly: but the northern parts are ſo fertile in the pro⯑ducts of our own country, that it is unneceſſary to enumerate them. Their cattle, fowls, and other tame animals are commonly the ſame ſpecies as thoſe found in England: but their exotics are, bears, wolves, linx⯑es, wild-boars, wild-cats, wild-goats, and a ſpecies of leopard, and another of beavers; beſides the uſual wild-beaſts, we find here, ſuch as foxes, badgers, polecats, &c. The chaſes in Germany are exten⯑ſive, and numerous, abounding with deer, hares, rabbits, &c. nor is game of any kind wanting to employ the ſportſman.

The mineral kingdom is likewiſe very full of ne⯑ceſſary ſupplies in this empire; the ſand-ſtone, ala⯑baſter, [31] ſhiver, variegated marble, cornelian, chalce⯑dony, onyx, jaſper, and various ſpecies of chryſtals and precious ſtones, ſuch as diamonds, rubies, ſap⯑phires, emeralds, amethyſts, and carbuncles, are found in different parts of Germany.

Of the ſpecies of ore, I ſhall only enumerate, vi⯑triol, allum, ſalt-petre, ſpring-ſalt, and ſtone-coal; and the mineral productions ſuch as virgin and quick-ſilver, black amber, ſulphur, bizmuth; and of me⯑tals, only iron, ſteel, lead, gold and ſilver. Added to theſe there are various petrifactions in the form of different objects, both in the animal and vegetable kingdoms found in this country.

The number of the excellent acid waters and Fhe⯑mae here is great, particularly thoſe of Pyrmont, Selt⯑zer and Spa, of which we ſhall ſpeak hereafter.

The ſeas of Germany are the Baltic and German ocean; and frequently the gulph of Venice is reckon⯑ed amongſt the number. The ocean waſhes but a ſmall part of the German ſhores, though Germany gives name to that ſea which flows between Great-Britain, the Netherlands, Denmark, and Norway: but, as it lies to the North of Holland and Germany, it has alſo been called the North ſea.

[32]The Baltic lies between Denmark, Germany, Pruſ⯑ſia, Courland, Ruſſia, and Sweden. This ſea is not obſerved to ebb or flow, but ſeems to diſcharge itſelf into the Sound, or the Swediſh and Norwegian ſea.

The principle, navigable rivers of Germany, are, the Danube, which is ranked as the firſt in Europe; it takes its riſe in Swabia, and is augmented by a number of others, particularly the Drave, a large na⯑vigable river, which ſeparates Hungary from Sclavo⯑nia, and falls into the Danube near Eſſeck, and the Save, which paſſes through moſt of the cities of Scla⯑vonia and Servia, and diſcharges itſelf into the Da⯑nube at Belgrade. The Teyſe riſes in the Car⯑pathian mountains, and running ſouthward through Hungary, falls into the Danube over againſt Salana⯑kenem.

The ſwiftneſs of the current is very remarkable, for it renders the waters of the Danube muddy and of a whitiſh colour; inſomuch, that the clear ſtreams of ſome of the rivers which fall into it are plainly diſcernable af⯑ter a courſe of ſeveral miles. And what is ſtill more remarkable is, that notwithſtanding the many large ri⯑vers which the Danube receives into it, it never is ob⯑ſerved to riſe higher than uſual, though the banks of the leſſer rivers which fall into the Danube are often over-flowed.

[33]This river has ſo deep and ſo wide a channel, that both the Imperialiſts and Turks have had fleets of men of war on it, as well as many engagements, par⯑ticularly at the late ſiege of Belgrade. The whole courſe of this river from its ſource to the Euxine ſea, into which it diſcharges itſelf by ſix or ſeven mouths, is computed to be about 1500 Engliſh miles; in its courſe it waſhes the walls of Ratiſbon, Paſſaw, Vienna, Eſſeck, Belgrade, and contains ſeveral iſlands, of of no ſmall extent.

There are three cataracts, or whirlpools in the courſe of this famous river; the firſt is called the Swines Snout, ſo named from the craggy rock which hangs over the river near Lintz in Auſtria. This vor⯑tex is dangerous, as its draught is directed down⯑wards, ſo that both ſmall craft and large ſhipping may alike be ſubject to danger and ſink, if too heavily laden.

When the river is high this whirlpool is ſafeſt, for then the water runs off a great ſpace above the rocks, but the ſtream is at that time more violent and rapid, as it boils the ſtronger, and its extent the larger. This danger too is at that time heightened by a counter current, which joins it to the right of what is called the Loch, which is a narrow paſſage winding round the rocks, and at low water quite dry.

[34]The ſecond fall is called the Thunderer; this cata⯑ract is near the town of Gran in Auſtria; and the third is a whirlpool about a furlong lower down. But how⯑ever terrible they have been repreſented of old, yet, by modern experience, we find the pilots of the river wade this danger.

The next great river, is the Rhine, which receives its ſource in the country of the Griſſons in Switzer⯑land, and paſſes by the cities of Straſburg, Heidelberg, Cologn, Bonn, Duſſeldorf, and Cleve; thence through Holland and empties itſelf into the German ocean.

There are reckoned nine cataracts in this river; the firſt of which are only conſidered as dangerous; one is a little below Schaffhuyſen in Swiſſerland, where the whole river falls from the top of a rock 75 feet high; the other is at Lauffenberg. The Rhine runs to the northward, between Swabia and Alſace into the Palatinate, receiving in its way the Mayne.

The Elbe is a large river that riſes in Sileſia, runs northward into Saxony, to Hamburg, and thence diſ⯑embogues itſelf into the German ocean. This is reckoned the deepeſt river of any in Germany, and navigable for large ſhips up to Hamburgh, which is 70 miles from the ſea. Near Hamburg it joins many iſlands, and between theſe and the ſea is a very broad ſtream.

[35]The other principal rivers are the Weſer, and Oder.

Of the lakes the principal is that of Conſtance, be⯑tween Suabia and Swiſſerland; that of Bavaria; the Cirkeritzer-ſee, in the duchy of Carniola; the ſweet and ſalt lake of Seeburg, in the country of Mansfield; the great Haaf in Pomerania; the lake of Mecklen⯑burg; and the Dammer-ſee of Diepholz.

Next to the lakes and waters, the caves and rocks are the chief natural curioſities of Germany. Men⯑tion is made of a cave near Blackenberg in Hartz⯑foreſt, of which none have found out the end, though many have advanced 20 miles to it; but the moſt re⯑markable curioſity of this kind is near Hammelen, about thirty miles from Hanover, where, at the mouth of a cave, ſtands a monument which commemorates the loſs of 130 children, who were ſwallowed up in 1284; though this fact is ſtrongly atteſted, it has been diſputed by ſome. Frequent mention is made of two rocks near Blackenberg, exactly repreſenting two monks in their proper habits, and of many ſtones which ſeem to be petrifactions of fiſhes, hogs, trees, and leaves. We will now proceed to the polity of the country.

In former times there were neither towns in Ger⯑many, nor any places of ſtrength. Single houſes, de⯑tached [36] from others, were built in commodious places, generally ſtraw huts, ſometimes waſhed over with a pure gloſſy earth. Places of ſtrength here are of more ancient date than the towns; the Romans having erected the firſt caſtles in Germany. In the time of the Frank emperors, Chriſtian churches and other buildings were erected here in the Gothic taſte, and every mountain and eminence fortified with a caſtle. The wars of the Huns cauſed Henry I. to build towns and places of ſtrength, and from that period civil and military architecture in Germany, roſe to great per⯑fection; ſo that it may now boaſt of ſome thouſands of boroughs and cities, many of which are very conſi⯑derable, large and fine, and alſo of important places of ſtrength, not to mention ſome thouſands of vil⯑lages, and a great number of cloiſters, caſtles, and gentlemens ſeats. The vaſt Gothic palaces, cathe⯑drals, caſtles, and above all, town-houſes through⯑out Germany are very curious, they ſtrike the behold⯑er with an idea of rude magnificence, and ſometimes have an effect preferable to Grecian architecture.

The chief houſes in great cities and villages, have the ſame appearance probably as they had 400 years ago, and their fortifications generally conſiſt of a brick wall, trenches filled with water, and baſtions or half-moons.

[37]In the firſt century after the birth of Chriſt, Ger⯑many was divided into ſeveral petty ſtates, which had no common ſupreme governor. After the diſſolution of the weſtern Roman Empire, ſix principal nations aroſe in it, the Swabians, Alemans, Franks, Friſians, Saxons, Thuringians, and Bavarians. The French reduced Gaul to their ſubjection, and conquered the other five nations above-mentioned, ſo that under Charlemayne all Germany was united into one kingdom, though not independant; but as a part of the Frank monarchy. The conquered German nations had here⯑ditary dukes of their own at firſt, and were governed by their own laws, but Charles, that is Charlemayne put an end to the former, and governed the countries by counts, and royal miſſionaries. The diets, how⯑ever, which had ſubſiſted of old, were ſtill retained. In the year 800, Charles alſo revived and confered the dignity of a Roman Emperor on himſelf and family. His ſon Lewis divided the kingdom among his ſons, upon which the greateſt troubles enſued, which in 843 were adjuſted, and Lewis the German obtained all Germany, quite to the Rhine, with the three towns of Spires, Worms, and Mentz, and thus Germany became an independant kingdom. In 94 the German Carolingian line, that is the deſcendants of Charlemayne became extinct. Germany was, at this time, a hereditary ſtate, but the power of its kings was limited by the diets; yet it continued hereditary till 1224, when it was torn by inteſtine commotions. [38] In 1273, however it began to recover from its diſ⯑tracted ſtate, and by a compromiſe of the electors, Palegrave Lewis was choſen ſupreme head, and from him has ſprung the race of the houſe of Auſtria.

The empire is now elective, but the election ſeems to be ſettled in the Auſtrian family. During the life of the Emperor, his ſucceſſor is choſen king of the Ro⯑mans by the nine electors, and on the death of the Emperor ſucceeds to the empire of courſe.

The revenue of the Emperor including all his terri⯑tories, Bohemia, Hungary, &c. amounts to almoſt four millions and a half ſterling.

Every new king of the Romans muſt ſolemnly re⯑nounce all attempts of rendering the empire heredi⯑tary to his heirs and followers; but it ſeems I ſay, to be ſettled in the Auſtrian family. The laws of the empire require no other qualifications in a candidate for the Roman crown, than to be Juſtus, bonus et utilis, that is juſt, good and uſeful, without any limitation of re⯑ligion, nation, ſtate, or age. This choice is ſettled by the electors, and declared by the elector of Mentz, as ſoon as conveniently can be done after the deceaſe of the former emperor, by means of envoys and pub⯑lic reſcripts to the electors, which ceremony laſts for three months, and is performed at Frankfort, on the Mayne.

[39]The electors appear in perſon or by their envoys, who muſt be inveſted with unlimited power. After ſettling the deliberations, as well relative to the capitu⯑lation of election as other matters propounded by the eſtates, foreign envoys or others, and after all foreign⯑ers, who belong not to the retinue of the electors, or their envoys, have been ordered to depart the town before the day of creation, the election pro⯑ceeds; that is to ſay, all the electors, who are pre⯑ſent, with the firſt envoys of ſuch as are abſent, betake themſelves in their reſpective electoral habits, and in formal proceſſion, on horſe-back from the council-houſe to the church of St. Bartholomew, where after maſs they ſolemnly promiſe before the altar, that they will elect the fitteſt perſon to be the emperor, and then they ſhut themſelves up in the chapel of election.

When they have once bound themſelves by oath, to let a plurality of votes ſtand good; theſe votes are collected by the elector of Mentz, according to the rank of the electors; after which the electors of Sax⯑ony aſk the elector of Mentz, for his own. Who⯑ever has more than half of the voices of the college for him is elected, and an elector may give his vote for himſelf.

When the election is over, the perſon elected, or his plenipotentiary, or proxy, muſt directly ſwear and ſubſcribe to the capitulation of election, upon which [40] he is congratulated, and the choice made public in the church.

If the elected king of the Romans, be not preſent in perſon, he muſt yet give a peculiar counter bond for the maintenance of the capitulation of election, and before the coronation ſwear to it himſelf, till which he cannot take upon him the government, but muſt leave it to the vicars of the empire.

An authentic copy of the capitulation of election, ſubſcribed by the elected, or his envoy, and confirm⯑ed by the ſeal of the former, is delivered to each of the electors; on the contrary, the electoral college, cauſes to be delivered to the elected an inſtrument of election, and, when abſent, it is to be carried to him by a prince, with a writing of notification.

On this he appoints a day for his coronation, which according to the etiquette of the empire, ought to be held at the Imperial city of Aix la-Chapelle; but the cuſtom has been of late diſpenſed with, and it is held in the town of election; and a counter bond is given to the city of Aix-la-Chapelle, and then the jewels of the empire are delivered up at the place of corona⯑tion, with great ſtate and ſolemn formality.

The ſeveral things delivered are, a rich crown and ſceptre, two Imperial rings, a book of the goſpel [41] richly ornamented with diamonds and precious ſtones, two broad ſwords, belts, veſtments, &c.

Then having the jewels of the empire carried before him in ſtate, he goes in proceſſion to the church, where he is alſo received by the ſpiritual electors: and at maſs they preſent him with a book, when he takes the oath of a ruler, and, among other things, promiſes all due veneration to the Pope and the church. After which he is anointed ſeven times by either the elector of Mentz or Cologne, and then adorned with the ancient veſtments and Imperial enſigns, and once more ſworn. Upon which he dubbs ſome new knights; and ſuffers himſelf to be admitted a canon of the Collegiate church of St. Mary's, at Aix la Chapelle, and is then conducted on foot in ſolemn proceſſion to the council-houſe, to a table, at which the hereditary officers attend.

Of the nine electors there are three ſpiritual and ſix temporal; the three ſpiritual electors are thoſe of Mentz, Treves, and Cologne: the temporal are thoſe of Bohemia, Bavaria, Saxony, Brandenburg, Elector Palatine, and Hanover; next to theſe rank the princes of the empire, which are numerous. The title of the Emperor runs thus: ‘L. by the grace of God elected Roman Emperor, at all times augmenter of the em⯑pire, in or out of Germany, King.’ The arms of the empire are a black eagle with two heads, hovering with [42] expanded wings in a field of gold, and on the head of this eagle the Imperial crown. To theſe the arms of the ſeveral hereditary countries are annexed.

The Emperor is conſidered by all ſtates as the firſt European potentate; being the ſupreme of the Ger⯑man empire, he enjoys all manner of privileges; but is ſubject to the ancient laws of the empire. He has the right of beſtowing dignities, creating honours, and eſtabliſhing privileges. He can ſecure a debtor againſt a creditor, give letters of protection againſt il⯑legal power, and can confer majority or minority, that is, give a minor power to enjoy his eſtates. He can render baſtards legitimate, can confirm contracts and remit extorted oaths. In ſhort, he can do many things which other princes cannot.

The eſtates of Germany are divided into eccleſiaſti⯑cal and temporal. The eccleſiaſtical eſtates are either Catholic or Proteſtant, but the one has not more pri⯑vileges than the other: the temporal are electors, princes, counts, lords, and Imperial towns; but theſe are not ſubject to each other. They arrive to the ſuc⯑ceſſion of theſe eſtates by blood, conſent of the Em⯑peror and empire, public treaties, inheritance, and compact of confraternity, and the ſtates of the empire are obliged to marry conformable to their rank. With reſpect to leagues and wars of the empire, alienations, and mortgages of lands belonging to it, and all caſes [43] which concern its ſecurity and public ſtate, the Empe⯑ror can do nothing without the conſent of the electors, or at their deſire. They may meet together in com⯑mon conſultation, or hold what is called an electoral diet. A ſubject may be guilty of treaſon againſt them, and they rank as princes. The eccleſiaſtical are ſtiled Electoral Grace; the temporal electors, Moſt gracious Lords. They give precedence to kings; their envoys yield place to thoſe of crowned heads, and kings call them brothers.

The diet of the empire is an aſſembly of the Empe⯑ror and all the ſtates of the empire, or their envoys and plenipotentiaries. This diet is ſummoned by the Em⯑peror, who, in conſultation with the electors, appoints the time and place. The firſt diet of an emperor is to be held at Nuremberg. The preſent received its beginning at Ratiſbon, in 1663, and has been conti⯑nued there, at ſtated times, ever ſince. The Emperor either attends in perſon, or by a prince, his commiſ⯑ſary, and the other electors, either perſonally or by their envoys, or charging the envoys of other ſtates with their voice. The eſtates of the empire divide in their conſultations into three colleges, namely, into the electoral and princely, the latter of which compre⯑hends the prelates, counts, and lords, and into the col⯑lege of the Imperial cities; and the buſineſs is con⯑ducted much in the manner of our parliaments.

[44]The taxes of the empire are impoſed by the diet only. Each ſtate contributes its proportion to the maintenance of the Emperor and empire, and for ſup⯑port of the army. But the Emperor cannot commence a war of the empire, without the conſent of the diet, nor can he make any peace, but with their appro⯑bation.

The empire of Germany in the year 1552, was erected into ten circles, eſtabliſhed for its maintenance and promotion of its external peace, repelling hoſtile violence, and for the diſpoſal of ſuch things as tend to the common good: but all ſtates and diviſions of the empire are not comprized in theſe circles, for ex⯑ample, Bohemia, Moravia, the Luſatias, and Sileſias, the nobility of the empire, and in ſome circles, cer⯑tain counties and ſeigniories are without ſeat or voice at the diets of theſe circles.

The circles have each their ſummoning prince, who appoints the diet of ſeparate circles, regulates theſe diets, receives all matters addreſſed to them, commu⯑nicates them to other ſtates, and executes the ſentence of the ſupreme courts of the empire paſſed againſt a ſtate of their circle, &c.

There are 73 ſieſs in Italy, belonging to the empire, among theſe are the duchies of Milan, Mantua, Mo⯑dena, Tuſcany, &c. But the power of the Emperor [45] in theſe ſtates is inconſiderable, He promotes to dig⯑nities there, and grants immunities, and can put them under the ban of the empire; yet they are often re⯑fractory and ſeldom pay their ſtated taxes, in time of war, without compulſion. After having given a ge⯑neral account of Germany, I mean to treat of it ac⯑cording to its ſeveral circles, when I ſhall enter more minutely into matters that occur.

CHAP. II. Of the Character of the Germans, their Habits, Diſ⯑poſitions, Manners, Cuſtoms, &c.

THE deſcription of the cities and buildings will occupy their proper portions, when we come to ſpeak of the various circles of which this empire is compoſed, particularly the court, and Imperial ſeat, at Vienna.

A curious and obſerving traveller muſt ſoon diſ⯑tinguiſh a very remarkable difference among the Germans in regard to temper, and mode of living, [46] which is no ſmall argument that they conſiſt of ſeve⯑ral diſtinct nations; and theſe characters of diſtinct⯑ions will never fail to continue.

That ſtrong paſſion for imitation, peculiar to the Germans, is often times, in many of them, a dange⯑rous infection, yet frequently produces beneficial and laudable effects. It is to their honour, that al⯑moſt all the kingdoms in Europe owe to German blood their crowned heads.

The number of inhabitants in Germany can only be determined by comparing it with other countries; being, in general, populous; and containing, at leaſt, a thouſand ſquare miles more than France, which being eſtimated at twenty millions, Germany muſt fairly be allowed to contain 24 millions.

The ancient Germans, as well as the preſent race, were always conſidered as athletic and robuſt. Whe⯑ther the French nation is juſtifiable or not in its charge, I cannot pretend to ſay, but they tax the whole German nation with ſtupidity and want of ſenſe; inſinuating that it is not poſſible for the ſoul to animate ſo vaſt a bulk with the ſame advantage it does one of an inferior ſize. The leaden temper of the Germans (ſays Voltaire) wants to be mended by mingling the French quick-ſilver with it. And cer⯑tainly it is true, that almoſt every people have ſome⯑thing [47] in their tempers, as well as in their perſons, to characterize them. The levity of the French, and the gravity of the Spaniard, are as much occaſioned by the ſituation of their reſpective countries, as the different taſtes of their wines. Animals of ſuch and ſuch a frame of mind and body, are as natural to ſome certain ſoils, as the plants peculiar to the country.

But, notwithſtanding the different tempers, and capacities, that are to be met with in the world, the heavieſt and moſt intractable part of mankind are ca⯑pable of being wonderfully improved by education, and application to buſineſs. Nor is it the youth of the quickeſt parts that always makes the greateſt man. If one, whom nature has been more bountiful to, at firſt, makes ſwifter advances in his ſtudies than uſual, perhaps he wants the patience and diligence of others, who, by their unwearied application, at length may poſſibly ſurpaſs him.

Again, if one perſon wants a ready wit, it is fre⯑quently made up to him in good judgment. And, as it is with particular perſons, ſo I apprehend it to be with nations. If they are defective in one reſpect, it is made up to them in another. Heaven has not given us all the ſame endowments, but has, however, diſtributed the gifts of nature ſo equally, that every one is ſatisfied with his particular portion; and, per⯑haps, there are very few defects but may be ſur⯑mounted [48] by diligence and application: not a Ger⯑man, but, if his genius was duly conſidered, and he was introduced into an employment ſuitable to it, might make a figure in the world; of which we ſhall be further convinced, when we come to ſpeak of their learning, their arts, and their ſciences.

The morals of the Germans alſo have been cen⯑ſured, for drunkenneſs is ſaid to be a vice peculiar to the country; but whether they are more addicted to drinking than their northern neighbours, or, indeed, than the Engliſh at preſent, is very much queſtioned. Certain it is, they cannot exceed the Ruſſians in diſ⯑orders of this kind. Drinking ſocieties are common in Germany, much upon the ſame plan as in England. Vices equally culpable in both nations. According to the celebrated Melancthon, the Germans were guilty of eating, as well as drinking to exceſs, for he uſed to ſay, "We Germans eat ourſelves ſick, we eat ourſelves into hell." It is no extraordinary thing for them to ſit from twelve at noon to five in the evening at dinner; and from ſeven at night, to two or three in the morning.—But, query: are not we equal ſlaves to the vices of the table?

In the delicacies of the table the ſnail-pie is not omitted, being a ſingular delicacy. There is ſcarce a nobleman's garden but has a ſnail-houſe in it, which [49] furniſhes his table. In other reſpects they eat and drink as do the Engliſh.

The Germans, however, with all the vices and va⯑nities aſcribed to them, are allowed to be endowed with ſome very commendable virtues, particularly honeſty and fairneſs in their dealings:—and are, for the moſt part, free and open, and great enemies to flattery and diſſimulation in trade; yet are the greateſt dupes poſſible in their etiquette on every ſuppoſed mode of faſhion.

Hoſpitality is another good quality which the an⯑cient, as well as the preſent Germans, are allowed to have. If a traveller can obtain a paſſport, he may travel all over the empire without a ſhilling.—And, what is ſtill more to their credit, few countries in the world can boaſt of leſs robberies, murders, or acts of deception and fraud. There is no nation more in love with travelling than the Germans: we meet with them in all the courts of Europe; and if it ſhould be admitted that their natural parts are not equal to their neighbours, the experience they gain abroad makes ample amends for what they are ſuppoſed to be natu⯑rally deficient in. But the misfortune is, their paſſion for travelling frequently ruins their eſtates, and im⯑poveriſhes their country: for a German nobleman will not be ſeen in a foreign court without an equi⯑page ſuitable to his quality, and perhaps beyond it.

[50] [...]

[51] [...] [48] [...] [49] [...]

[50]The courage and bravery of the Germans muſt al⯑ways be acknowledged.—And if the empire is ever conquered it muſt be by Germans, as an elegant wri⯑ter expreſſes it; which implies, that it muſt be either from the mercenary troops hired from thence, or by their own diſſentions. The ſingular peculiari⯑ties of this people ſhall be treated of in their proper places, when we come to ſpeak of the different circles.

Hunting the wild boar is a faſhionable ſport among the Germans of quality; but there ſeems to be but little riding in the caſe; for the beaſt being found by the huntſmen ſome time before, is ſurrounded by a large company, who with their guns, lances, ſpears and dogs, diſpatch the creature as ſoon as they can, without ſuffering him to run for his life.—Sometimes, indeed, a wild boar will break through the crowd, and it is well if he do not wound either man or horſe with his tuſks.—

Another diverſion in winter is the riding through the ſtreets on the ſnow in ſledges, which are drawn by horſes richly accoutred, and adorned with bells and feathers, &c. The game which they chiefly de⯑light in is cheſs— and is the grand entertainment of every polite circle; and may be ſaid to be the amuſe⯑ment of every rank down to the loweſt peaſant.— The Germans, however, are well acquainted with all [51] our modes of gaming, from none of which are they precluded, except the pernicious national folly of lot⯑teries: a miſchievous mode of government-finance in this country, which in the memory of every one of our readers has deſtroyed the lives and fortunes of many of his majeſty's ſubjects, both in this and the neighbouring kingdom.

CHAP. III. Of the Learning, Language, Univerſities, and Police of the preſent Germans.

THERE are but very few who write and ſpeak the German language with purity and correct⯑neſs; and even the very Grammarians themſelves are of different opinions, with reſpect to the rules and principles on which it is formed; a fate common to all living languages.

[52]The preſent language of the Germans is much cor⯑rupted by the introduction of Italian, French and La⯑tin words. There are alſo ſeveral dialects of the High Dutch or German; ſo that the natives of diſtant parts of the empire can ſcarcely underſtand what is ſaid by thoſe of the hither parts, ſo great is the vanity to which this error leads.

Buſching boaſts, that the German language yields not, by any means, in elegance, ſoftneſs and charms, to any one language whatſoever. It muſt, indeed, be acknowledged to be very flowery, copious and pa⯑thetic, for the works of Geſner, Wieland, and La⯑vator, have thoſe deſireable elegancies in the higheſt perfection.

With reſpect to learning, the Germans, at preſent, diſpute the palm with all other nations. Not only their natural vivacity and ſtrong itch of imitation, but alſo the variety of government in Germany, their mu⯑tual emulation, and the freedom proteſtants enjoy there of writing according to their own judgment, has procured the greateſt improvement of the ſciences among them: their itch for reading too, is become ſo great and general, and particularly amongſt the proteſtants, that it is deemed unbecoming the fair ſex, and perſons of any rank, either not to read or to have read.

[53]Nor is there any place in the world where more books are written and printed than among the Ger⯑mans; and though this itch for writing gives riſe to many ordinary and mean performances, yet have many important and weighty writings appeared, from time to time, in their publications.

It may be alſo ſaid, that printing is encouraged to a fault in Germany; for every man of letters is an author; and therefore they multiply books without number, whether they have any thing new to entertain the world with or not: but it were to be wiſhed that a little more moderation were uſed in publiſhing thoſe various ſuppoſitions and diſputations which annually overſtock Frankfort and Leipſic.

In Germany there are 36 univerſities, viz. ſeven⯑teen proteſtant ones, as follow:

1 Altorff. 2 Duiſburg. 3 Erlangen. 4 Franck⯑fort on the Oder. 5 Gieſſen. 6 Gottingen. 7 Griefswalde. 8 Hall. 9 Helmſtadt. 10 Jena. 11 Kiel. 12 Leipſic. 13 Marburg. 14 Rinteln. 15 Roſtoch. 16 Tubingen. 17 Wirtemberg.

And 17 Roman Catholic ones, viz. 1 Bamberg. 2 Cologne. 3 Dillengen. 4 Freyberg. 5 Fulda. 6 Gratz. 7 Ingolſtadt. 8 Inſpruch. 9 Louvain. 10 Mentz. 11 Olmutz. 12 Paderborn. 13 Prague. 14 Saltz⯑berg. 15 Treves. 16 Vienna. 17 Wurtzburg.

[54]And two other diſſenting ones, viz. 1 Erfurth. 2 Heidelberg.

The number of riding academies, colleges, gym⯑naſia, paedagogies and Latin ſchools, is here alſo very great. And there are likewiſe academies for ſciences and ſocieties of literature. viz.

1 The Imperial Leopoldine academy of the naturae curioſi. 2 The Gottingen ſociety of ſciences. 3 The Erfurth academy of uſeful ſciences. 4 The Leipſic ſociety of liberal arts. 5 The Duiſberg learned ſo⯑ciety. And 6 The Latin ſociety of Jena.

The public libraries are: 1 Vienna. 2 Hanover. 3 Wolfenbuttel. 4 Gottingen. 5 Leipſic. And 6 Weimar.

There is no ſpecies or branch of learning which has not already been cultivated among the Germans, or which has not been carried by them to a greater per⯑fection. The theological ſciences are not more in⯑debted to any people than the Germans of the re⯑formed churches. They have written largely upon the Roman and canon laws. Sthal, Van Swieten, Storck, Hoffman and Haller, have contributed greatly to the improvement of phyſic; Ruvinus and Dillenius of Botany; Heiſter, of anatomy and ſurgery: and New⯑man, Zimmerman, Pott, and Margraff, of chemiſtry; [55] but the late publication of Fourcroy ſuperceeds even thoſe.

In aſtronomy Kepler deſervedly obtained great re⯑putation; as did Puffendorf, for the Elements of the Laws of Nature and Nations. Leibnitz and Wolfius opened the way to philoſophy; and Gottſched, who was a great favorite of Frederick II. King of Pruſſia, introduced a ſtandard for compoſition and the beſt grammar, with directions for ſtudying the Belles Lettres.

Moſheim, Jeruſalem, Spalding, Zollikoſer, and others, have written ſermons on the model of our beſt En⯑gliſh authors, particularly Tillotſon, Sherlock, &c. and whoſe publications would do credit to any coun⯑try. The only error in compoſition, which deſerves cenſure, is their prolixity: but it ſtill remains a fault, that great numbers of the German prieſts are too much addicted to vulgar language, and abſurd opinions.

Some of the Engliſh periodical writings, ſuch as the Spectator, Tatler, and Guardian, being tranſlated into the German language, excited great emulation among the writers of that country; and a number of periodical papers appeared of various merit. One of the firſt and beſt was publiſhed at Hamburg under the title of "The Patriot;" in which Dr. Thomas, late [56] biſhop of Saliſbury, was concerned; he being, at that time, chaplain to the Britiſh factory at Hamburg, and a conſiderable maſter of the German language. Profeſſor Geliert, one of the moſt elegant of the Ger⯑man authors, and one of the moſt eſteemed, has greatly contributed to the improvement of their taſte. His way of writing is particularly adapted to touch the heart, and to inſpire ſentiments of morality and piety. His fables and narrations written in Ger⯑man verſe; his letters and his moral romances, are ſo much read in Germany, that even many of the ladies have them by heart. His comedies are alſo very po⯑pular, though they are rather too ſentimental, and better adapted for the cloſet than the ſtage.

The ſons of Apollo, may be ranked with the poets, Haller (a phyſician,) Hagedom, Uz, Cronegh, Leſſing, Gleim, Gerſtenbuger, Kleiſt, Klopſtock, Reuenler, Zacha⯑riac, Wieland, and Geſner. Schlegel, Cronegh, Leſſing, Wieland, and Wieſe, have acquired fame by their dra⯑matic writings. Rabener has, by his ſatyrical works, immortalized his name, as have the beforementioned Geſner, whoſe Idylls and Death of Abel having been tranſlated into the Engliſh language, is known among us in a more favorable light.

In chemiſtry and medicine the merit of the Ger⯑mans is very conſpicuous; and Reimanus, Zimmer⯑man, [57] Abt, Kaeſtner, Segner, Lambert, Mayer, Keuger and Sulzer, have acquired fame by their philoſophical writings. Buſching is an excellent geopraphical writ⯑er; and Maſcow, Bemau, Putter, Gattner and Gebaur, have excelled in hiſtorical works, but it cannot be denied however that the Germans are behind us in romances, by nearly a century; for moſt of their publications in this line are productions in imitation of ours, and this ſpecies of theirs is very dry and un⯑inviting, which perhaps is owing to education, to falſe delicacy, or to a certain taſte of knight-errantry, which is ſtill predominant among ſome of their novel writers.

In works of literature relative to antiquity the names of Klag, Leſſing and Winckleman, ſtand forward. In eccleſiaſtical, philoſophical and literary hiſtory, the names of Albertus Fabricius, Moſheim, Sembler and Brucker, are well known amongſt us. Cellarius, Burman, Taubman, Reiſhe, &c. are excellent claſſical publiſhers of Latin and Greek.

It is an unfavourable circumſtance for German li⯑terature that the French language ſhould be ſo faſhion⯑able in the courts inſtead of the German, and that ſo many of their Princes ſhould give it ſo decided a preference; but the Pruſſian court has, within the laſt two years, fully adopted, and we ſay, reſtored the language.

[58]And with reſpect to the fine arts, the Germans have acquitted themſelves tolerably well. Germany has produced ſome good artiſts in painting, ſculpture, ar⯑chitecture and engraving, and claim to themſelves the origin of engraving, etching and metzotinto, and even claim the origin of printing, gun-powder, and great guns. The celebrated Handel, the muſical compoſer, was of this court, as was the late Bach, A [...]el, Heſſe, and the preſent Hadyn, &c. Yet we cannot omit this opportunity of obſerving, that though Handel arrived at the ſublime of muſic, he had not the ſmalleſt idea between muſic and ſenti⯑mental expreſſion; therefore it is yet to be accom⯑pliſhed by ſome future genius to unite ſenſe and ſound, as none of the modern compoſers have thought of any expedient to adapt ſuch a plan.

The language of the Germans at this day is the Teutonic, and has no relation to the Celtic,—and by way of eminence is called the High Dutch, of which the following is a ſpecimen:

In the taſte of the Germans, as has been already obſerved, they affect ſplendor; for both men and women are fond of rich dreſſes, which in faſhion are the ſame as in France and England; but the better ſort of men are exceſſively fond of gold and ſilver lace, eſpecially if they are in the army. The ladies at the principal courts, differ little in their dreſs from the French and Engliſh, except their not being ſo fond of paint as the former. At ſome courts they appear in rich furs, and all of them are loaded with jewels, if they can obtain them. The female part of the Burghers families, in many of the German towns, dreſs in a very different manner, and ſome of them inconceivably fantaſtic, but in this reſpect they are gradually reforming, and many of them make quite a different appearance in dreſs, from what they did 30 or 40 years ago.

As to the peaſantry and labourers, they dreſs as in other parts of Europe, according to their employ⯑ments, conveniency and circumſtances.

The ſtoves in Germany are the ſame with thoſe already mentioned in the Northern nations, and are ſometimes made portable ſo that the ladies carry them [60] to church. In Weſtphalia, and many other parts of Germany, they ſleep between two feather-beds with ſheets ſtitched to them, which by uſe becomes a very comfortable practice.

The moſt unhappy part of the Germans are the needy, little petty princes, who ſqueeze them to keep up their own grandeur, but in general the circum⯑ſtances of the common people are far preferable to thoſe of the French.

The Germans, in general, are thought to want ani⯑mation, and indeed induſtry, application, and perſe⯑verance are the great characteriſtics of the German nation, eſpecially the mechanical parts of it. Their works of art would be incredible were they not viſible, eſpecially in watch and clock-making, jewellery, and turnery. At the greateſt tables, though the gueſts drink freely at dinner, yet the repaſt is finiſhed with coffee, after three or public toaſts have been given. But no people have more feaſting at marriages, funerals, and on birth-days.

All the ſons of noblemen inherit their father's titles, which greatly perplexes the heralds and genealogiſts of the country. It is recorded by Reiſbec, that the German huſbands are not ſo complaiſant as thoſe of ſome other nations to their ladies, who are not entitled to any preheminence at the table, nor indeed do they ſeem to [61] affect it, being far from either ambition or loquacity, though they are ſaid to be too fond of gaming.

Many of the German nobility having no hereditary eſtates, by the ſound of their titles eaſily get admiſ⯑ſion into the army of the Emperor, or of the neigh⯑bouring kingdoms. Their fondneſs for titles is at⯑tended with many inconveniences. Their princes think that the cultivation of their lands, though it might trebly pay their attention, of no conſequence; ſuch is the error of pride!

CHAP. IV. Of the Religion.

ALL Hiſtorians agree that the ancient Germans were heathens, but yet they had more rational principles of religion than either Greeks or Romans. About the beginning of the ſeventh century they re⯑ceived the chriſtian religion, by the miſſion of Killion, an Iriſh biſhop. In the eight century this attempt was further improved, and under the ſpecious name of pro⯑pagating the doctrines of the goſpel, the miſſionaries from Rome ſubjected the people to the Romiſh yoke.

[62]In the 16th century a reformation in religion took place, and the proteſtant faith was introduced; but as we profeſs not to write an eccleſiaſtical hiſtory, we ſhall leave the manner how, and the means by, which it was effected, to be ſearched for in other authors.

It is computed that the Calviniſts gain ground of the Lutherans, in Germany, being ſupported by diſ⯑ſenters of every perſuaſion: but much the greater part of the Empire adhere to the Roman-catholic religion, however the doctrines of the reformation produce this effect, that many biſhopricks have been converted into ſecular principalities, and a new form of church-government ſet up in many places, inſtead of the epiſcopal.

Thoſe biſhops, who are ſtill of the Roman-catho⯑lick communion, exerciſe a greater authority in their dioceſes than any prelates in Europe. They are moſt of them temporal princes, and have as abſolute a domi⯑nion over their ſubjects, ſpiritual and temporal, as the ſecular electors have over the laity in their territories.

Beſides the three eccleſiaſtical electors, there were formerly five archbiſhops and thirty biſhops who had voices in the diet of the empire; but the archbiſhops of Magdeburg, Bremen and Riga, with the biſhoprics of Halverſtadt, Minden and Verden, have, ſince the reformation, turned into ſecular principalities. Thoſe [63] of Metz, Toul, Verdun, Beſancon and Straſburg, have been cut off from the empire and united to France or Lorrain. Thoſe of Valeſia, Loſanna and Coire, have been aboliſhed by the Swiſs Can⯑tons; ſo that, except the eccleſiaſtical electors, there is in the college of the princes of the empire only the archbiſhop of Saltzburg and ſeventeen or eighteen biſhops who have votes.

The loſs of the biſhoprics may be conſidered as a great diſadvantage to the younger branches of great houſes, who uſed to get a princely maintainance on being preferred to them: whereas they enjoy now little more than an empty title, without any patrimonial eſtate or inheritance, and the court or army is their only refuge at preſent.

The biſhopric of Lubeck is ſtill an eccleſiaſtical preferment, altho' in the hands of the Lutherans; and is in the gift of the dukes of Holſtein and Sleſwick.

The archbiſhop of Saltzburg is the firſt German prelate, being born legate of the ſee of Rome, and gives place to none but the electors in the public diets. The other popiſh biſhops, who ſtill have a voice in the diets of the empire, are Bamberg, Wurtz⯑berg, Worms, Spire, Erichſtedt, Augſburg, Con⯑ſtance, Hildeſheim, Paderborn, Munſter, Paſſau, Friſingen, Liege, Trent, Brix and Bazil. The late [64] dukes of Hanover were alſo poſſeſſed of Hildeiſhem, but now it is in the dominion of the elector of Cologn. Vienna is alſo a biſhopric, ſubject to the archbiſhop of Saltzburg.

By the authority of the council of Trent the ſole power of confering dignities and prelacies, is veſted in the pope, not only in Germany, but alſo in all chriſ⯑tendom, where the Romiſh yoke is tolerated.

There are other eccleſiaſtical princes, beſides biſhops, who have voices in the diets of the empire, the firſt of whom is the great maſter of the Teutonick order, the abbots of Fulda, Hirſesfield, Murback, Kempton, Corbray, Prum, Stabel, Ludos, the grand prior of Malta, the provoſts of Elvang and Beresfoldaguden; theſe ſit on lower benches than the biſhops in the aſ⯑ſembly of the diet.

There are alſo 23 other prelates, and 14 abbeſſes, who are placed below the ſecular princes, but theſe have no voices in a full body any more than the counts. The abbeſſes ſend their repreſentatives to the diets of the empire, being excuſed a perſonal appear⯑ance upon account of their ſex.

The 23 inferior prelates have either the title of pro⯑voſt, abbot, or bailiff, of ſome popular place, and the revenues annexed to their dignities are frequently ſu⯑perior to thoſe of the princes.

[65]The proteſtants in the German empire, whether Lutherans or Calviniſts, acknowledge the ſupremacy of the prince in whoſe dominions they reſide, and he is appealed to in all caſes, unanimouſly, as ſupreme judge in all ſpiritual caſes as well as temporal cauſes: but the church-diſcipline of the Lutherans and Calviniſts is very different. The Calviniſts have neither biſhops nor ſuperintendants, whereas the Lutherans have their general and particular ſuperintendants; the general ſuperintendants anſwering to our archbiſhops, and the particular ſuperintendants to our biſhops; and in the dominions of every prince is held a conſiſtory, which anſwers to our convocation. This aſſembly has the power of degrading and puniſhing offenders, and of making rules or canons for the better government of the clergy.

The ſuperintendants viſit their dioceſes once a year, and make a ſtrict enquiry into the doctrine and man⯑ners of all the clergy under their care. There are ſome Lutheran princes that have the title of biſhops, who are as abſolute in their dioceſes, as ſecular mo⯑narchs in their temporal dominions, and have an un⯑limited command over both clergy and laity.

The countries or ſtates of Germany where the Lu⯑theran opinions chiefly prevail, are thoſe of Saxony, Brandenburg, Brunſwic, Lunenburg, Holſtein, Meck⯑lenburg, Wirtemberg, Darmſtadt, Domlach, Lawen⯑burg, [66] and Eaſt Frieſland. But there are a great num⯑ber of Calviniſts among them; which ſect, as I have obſerved, ſeems to gain ground of the Lutherans.

CHAP V. Of the Military Power, Revenue, Conſtitution, &c.

THE Elector of Mentz keeps what is called a matriculation or regiſter-book, which contains the aſſeſſments of men and money, which every prince and ſtate of the empire is obliged to advance when the Imperial army takes the field.

The contributions are called Roman months, on account of the monthly aſſeſſments paid to the empe⯑rors when they viſited Rome. Theſe aſſeſſments how⯑ever are ſubject to great mutability.

It is ſufficient to ſay, that upon a moderate com⯑putation, the ſecular princes of the empire can bring to the field 379,000 men, and the eccleſiaſtical 74,50, [67] in all, 453,500; of theſe the Emperor as head of the Houſe of Auſtria, is ſuppoſed to furniſh 90,000.

The quota of each is thus ſtated,

By this liſt, which is far from being exaggerated, it appears that the Emperor and the empire is the moſt powerful government in Europe; and if the whole force was united and properly directed, Germany would have nothing to fear from any of its ambitious neighbours. But the different intereſts purſued by the ſeveral princes of Germany, render the power of the Emperor of little conſequence, except with regard [69] to his own forces, which are indeed very formidable. The army of the preſent Emperor is computed to amount to 200,000 men.

The eccleſiaſtical princes are as abſolute as the tem⯑poral ones; the principal of whom are the archbiſhop of Saltzburg, the biſhops of Liege, Munſter, Spire, Worms, Wurtzburg, Straſburg, Oſnaburg, Bamberg, and Paderbon. Beſides theſe, there are other eccle⯑ſiaſtical princes. Germany abounds with many ab⯑bots and abbeſſes whoſe juriſdictions are likewiſe abſo⯑lute, and ſome of them very conſiderable, and all of them are choſen by their ſeveral chapters.

The chief of the ſecular princes are, the landgrave of Heſſe, the dukes of Brunſwic, Wolfenbuttel, Wir⯑temburg, Mecklenburg, and Saxa-Gotha; the marquiſ⯑ſes of Baden and Culmbach with the princes of Naſſau, Anhalt, Furſtenburg, and many others, who have all high titles and are ſovereigns in their own dominions. The free cities are likewiſe ſovereign ſtates, thoſe which are Imperial or compoſe a part of the diet bear the Im⯑perial eagle in their arms; thoſe which are Hanſe towns have ſtill greater privileges and immunities, but they ſubſiſt no longer as a political body.

Buſching gives us this account of the Hanſe-towns. Towards the middle of the 13th century, many towns in Germany, as well as in other countries, lying in [] [...] [] [...] [68] [...] [69] [...] [70] the German Ocean and the Baltic, entered into a mutual league with each other for the ſecurity and promotion of trade and navigation, and were there⯑fore called Hanſe towns. Though the trade of theſe fell greatly to decay in the fifteenth century and the name of the league ceaſed in time, yet the trading towns of Hamburg, Lubeck and Bremen are ſtill ſo called and have a league ſtill ſubſiſting between them, under the name of which they conclude treaties of commerce with foreign powers. Hamburg is the moſt important town of trade in all Germany, and much reſorted to by the Engliſh and Dutch. The other principal towns of trade are, Francfort-on-the-Maine, Leipſic, Nuremburg, Augſburg, Vienna, Fiume, and Trieſte, which laſt is alſo a free port. At Embden is eſtabliſhed a new Eaſt India company.

Indeed with reſpect to commerce, Germany enjoys all kinds of advantages, for it not only borders on the German Ocean, the Baltic, and gulph of Venice, but is watered by many navigable rivers, and ſeated in the heart of Europe, ſo that it can commodiouſly ex⯑port what it has to ſpare, and import all it wants. For the promotion of inland trade, ſo many land-carriages have been introduced, that the expence is very low. Each German ſovereign has a privilege of eſtabliſhing manufactures, and prohibiting foreign merchandize, limiting exportation, and excluding the trade of fo⯑reigners, &c. The goods exported from Germany [71] into the neighbouring and remote countries are corn, tobacco, horſes, lean cattle, butter, cheeſe, honey, ſyrup, wine, particularly Rheniſh and Moſelle, linen, woollen-ſtuffs, yarn, ribbands, ſilk, and cotton-ſtuffs, Nuremberg wares, goats-ſkins, wool, wood, particu⯑larly for ſhip-building; iron plates and ſtoves, can⯑non-balls, bombs, grenadoes, tin-plates, ſteel-work, copper, braſs-wire, porcelaine, earthen-ware, mirrors, glaſſes, beer, Brunſwick-mum, tartar, ſmalt, Zaffer, Pruſſian blue, hog's briſtles, printers ink, and many other things.

The revenue or private income of the Emperor does not exceed £.6000 Engliſh, which ariſes from a few inconſiderable fiefs in the Black Foreſt: but the magnificence of many of the German courts is ſo great, that a ſtranger would be induced to conceive very high ideas of the income of their princes; which is owing to the high price of money in that country, and conſequently the low price of proviſions and ma⯑nufactures.

Few of the revenues or territories of the German princes are ſo large, as to be aſſigned to viceroys, to be oppreſſed and fleeced at pleaſure; nor are they en⯑tirely without redreſs when they ſuffer any grievance; they may appeal to the general diet or great council of the empire for relief.

[72]The ſubjects of the petty princes are moſt unhap⯑py, for as they affect the grandeur and ſplendour of the moſt powerful monarch, in the number and ap⯑pearance of their officers and domeſticks, whether in their palaces, gardens, curioſities, pictures, guards, bands of muſic, tables, dreſs, and furniture, they are obliged to ſupport all this vain pomp and parade at the expence of their vaſſals and dependants.

With reſpect to the burghers and peaſants of Ger⯑many, the former in many places enjoy greater liber⯑ty or privileges; the latter alſo, in ſome ſpots, for in⯑ſtance, in Franconia, Suabia, and on the Rhine, are generally a free people, or perform only certain ſer⯑vices to their ſuperiors, and only pay taxes: whereas in Brandenburgh, Pomerania, Luſatia, &c. they may ſtrictly be denominated ſlaves, though in different degrees.

Were the many improvements which have been talk⯑ed of by the court of Vienna for the hereditary domi⯑nions, put into execution, it would, at the ſame time, much improve the revenue, and in a manner free the country of tho⯑ſe evils which uſually flow from increaſ⯑ing the public income of a crown. But there is a di⯑latorineſs and a languor in every thing tranſacted at this court, even in its moſt intricate concerns, that damp the ſpirit of all improvement, ſo that any ob⯑ject of this ſort, upon a moderate computation, will [73] be talked of half a century before it is executed: this was the caſe with the eſtabliſhment of the woollen ma⯑nufactory in Hungary, and with every thing elſe; ſo that it is not thought that the Auſtrian revenues, how⯑ever they would admit of it, will for a long time be put upon a better footing than they are, or have any other improvements than what reſult from oppreſſing the lower claſſes of the people ſtill more; than which no meaſure can give a greater ſtab to all general, national improvements.

Had the king of Pruſſia poſſeſſed the Auſtrian do⯑minions in exchange for his own, we ſhould have ſeen them make a very different appearance; he would have raiſed much greater revenues, with far greater eaſe to the people, and would have thrown ſuch a vigour into all the tranſactions, which the poſ⯑ſeſſion of Flanders and the Italian dominions would have introduced him to, that the importance of them would have ſpeedily appeared in a very different light from what they do at preſent.

CHAP. VI. Of Moravia, Auſtrian Sileſia and Luſatia.

BEFORE I begin to treat of the regular circles, I will ſpeak of thoſe places not included in them: theſe are Moravia, Auſtrian Sileſia and Lu⯑ſatia.

Moravia is bounded, to the weſt, by Bohemia; to the north, by Glatz and Sileſia; to the eaſt, by Si⯑leſia and Hungary; and to the ſouth, by Auſtria, being about 360 German ſquare miles in extent. It is called Moravia from the river Morava. Towards Hungary, Bohemia and Sileſia, it is partly environed by mountains, and partly by woods. Above one half of it is mountainous and woody; and many of the mountains are ſo high, as to be almoſt deſolate. In the more open parts are many moraſſes, bogs and lakes, where the water is unwholeſome; and in the mountainous regions the air is rough; and ſo cold, that in many places, even in ſummer, the people are obliged to uſe ſt [...]ves. More corn, however, grows here than the inhabitants conſume. It produces alſo plenty of hemp, flax, vegetables, fruit, and fine ſaffron. They dig both frankincenſe and myrrh out [75] of the earth, and ſome places produce good wine, both white and red. Its wide foreſts are favourable to bees, afford plenty of veniſon, wolves, bears and leopards. Quarries of marble, baſtard diamonds, amethyſts, and other minerals, are alſo found here, and their lakes and ponds yield variety of fiſh. The number of towns and villages are about 2550. The native language is a dialect of the Sclavonian, little differing from the Bohemian; but the German language is very common alſo.

The ſtates of the country conſiſt of the clergy, lords, knights and burgeſſes. That of the clergy, is formed of the biſhop of Olmutz, and the eccleſiaſtics entitled to wear a mitre and poſſeſſed of eſtates; that of the lords, of the princes, curates and barons; that of the knights, of the reſt of the gentry; and that of the burgeſſes, of ſome few particular towns. The diets are appointed by the regency, and held at Brunn.

Olmutz has a univerſity; a learned ſociety is there eſtabliſhed, and the ſciences begin to flouriſh greatly. The religion of the whole country is Roman-catholic, and ſubject to the juriſdiction of the biſhop of Ol⯑mutz, who ſtiles himſelf duke and prince of the holy Roman empire. In the commotions of the Huſſites in Bohemia, the Moravians bore a conſiderable part; and, in the end, divided from the Roman-Catholics, [76] and called themſelves Moravian brethren; of theſe there are ſtill ſome deſcendants in the coun⯑try, who externally conform to the Romiſh church, but privately hold ſeparate aſſemblies, and partly, as opportunity offers, fly to proteſtant countries. We have had them in England.

The chief commodities of this country are the cloth manufactures at Iglau and Trebitz, where are alſo ſome iron and glaſs works, and where they make paper, gunpowder, &c. but their commerce is very trifling. Brunn, however, enjoys the principal part. Olmutz is the capital of the province; has a caſtle of conſiderable ſtrength, ſurrounded by the river Mo⯑rava; the town is well fortified, rich and popu⯑lous, and divided into the old and new. It con⯑tains 26 churches, five chapels, nine cloiſters, ſe⯑veral hoſpitals, and two ſeminaries, beſides the uni⯑verſity. It has been frequently beſieged and da⯑maged by fires. In 1741 it was blocked up for ſome months by the Ruſſians. Moravia contributes about one third to the exactions which Bohemia pays. Seven or eight regiments are generally quartered there.

Auſtrian Sileſia was once a part of Poland; but many German colonies having ſettled there in the 13th century, a ſeparation of the country was then began, and afterwards effected and united to the [77] crown of Bohemia; but, in 1740, Frederick II. king of Pruſſia, claiming ſeveral duchies in it, marched an army into Sileſia; a war broke out between him and the houſe of Auſtria; and the king having con⯑quered all lower Sileſia and part of Glatz, it was con⯑firmed to him by the treaty of Breſlau and Dreſden in 1742 and 1745. Hence it is this part only of Si⯑leſia that belongs to Auſtria as a Bohemian fief. We have deſcribed Ruſſian Sileſia, which ſufficiently de⯑picts that belonging to Auſtria. The territories of Auſtrian Sileſia are the principality of Teſchen; that part of the principality of Troppau, which lies to the ſouth of the river Oppa, a part of the principality of Jagerndorf, and a part of that of Grotkau.

Luſatia runs from north-weſt to ſouth-eaſt, bounded on the eaſt by Sileſia, on the ſouth by Bohemia, on the weſt by Miſnia, and on the north by the marqui⯑ſate of Brandenburg, excluſive of that part of Bran⯑denburg which belongs to it, and which makes about 20 German ſquare miles. This province is about 180 miles in extent.

Upper Luſatia abounds more in mountains and hills; and enjoys a purer air than the Lower, on which are many bogs and mooriſh parts, but has ſome fine woods. In the mountainous parts there is but little room for agriculture; and the heaths on the confines of Lower Luſatia and thoſe of Sileſia, conſiſt [78] of a pure ſoil, affording little elſe than fine hunting. But where there is huſbandry, grain of all kind is cul⯑tivated, and flax; and throughout is found what is uſually called manna. Garden-ſtuff they have little; but they make wine, both white and red. A great quantity of cattle is here bred; and they have plenty of veniſon.

In Upper Luſatia are ſix cities, 16 ſmaller ones, and four market-towns; but in the Lower, only four cities, two market ones and 13 county towns; theſe towns are almoſt wholly peopled with German inha⯑bitants; but in the villages we meet with ſome of the Wends, the ancient inhabitants of this country, who retain the Wendiſh dreſs and language. Each mar⯑quiſate of Upper and Lower Luſatia conſiſts of two ſtate, the country and towns. In Luſatia are made all ſorts of linen from unbleached and bleached yarn, common and fine, as alſo fine white damaſk, for table and bed-linen, and white tick. There are alſo in Luſatia good manufactures of hats, leather, paper, gunpowder, iron and glaſs, and wax bleaching.

I cannot paſs over the Wendes without acquainting my readers from Reiſbec of their groſs ſuperſtition. The characteriſtic of the inhabitants of all this country is ſtriking bigotry, united with manifeſt ſenſuality. You need only ſee what is going forwards here, to be convinced that the religion taught by the monks is as [79] ruinous to the mind, as it is repugnant to chriſtianity. The ciciſbios, or gallants, accompany the married women from their beds to the church, and lead them to the very confeſſional. The pilgrimage to Mariazell, which is a watering-place, like Bath, is a ceremony half religious and half profane. A friend of mine ſays Reiſbec, had the honour to accompany a lady who went there with her lover. As it was expected the next day, being the feaſt of the Virgin, there would be great crouds at confeſſion, the lady was aſked, whether it would not be better to expedite matters and confeſs the night before? 'No,' an⯑ſwered ſhe, 'if I do, I ſhall have to confeſs again to⯑morrow morning, before I can go to ſacrament, with a pure conſcience.' Their lovers are chiefly officers and high churchmen, between which orders, on this account, there is a conſtant jealouſy.

CHAP. VII. Of the Circle of Auſtria.

THIS Circle borders, to the north, on Mo⯑ravia, Bohemia, and the Circle of Bavaria; to the weſt, on Swiſſerland; to the ſouth, on the terri⯑tory of the republic of Venice and the Adriatic ſea; to the eaſt, on Hungarian Illyria and Hungary. Thoſe territories which are called the hither Au⯑ſtrian countries, lie ſcattered in and about Swabia.

Auſtria is reckoned among the circles that are en⯑tirely catholic. It is called from the arch-duchy of the ſame name, which conſtitutes the principal part of the circle-country, whereof Vienna is the ca⯑pital.

The arch-duke, now Emperor of Germany, is the governing prince, director and ſovereign of the whole [82] circle. Diets for the circle are not uſual in this country, the greateſt part of it ſtanding under one ſingle lord, according to whoſe good pleaſure the reſt of the ſtates regulate themſelves. To the aids of the empire this circle contributes its ſhare, as often as the public ſecurity requires it; which contribution uſu⯑ally amounts to a fifth part of the empire.

Lower Auſtria would breathe a very unwholeſome air, was it not purified by very ſtrong gales; it is principally level, except the lofty mountain which commences about two hours, or two leagues (each league four miles) from Vienna, on the Danube, and extends for 50 miles.

The country is fertile, and yields ſuch plenty of corn, that the inhabitants are able to diſpenſe with conſiderable quantities of it to their neighbours. The natural productions are very numerous, as here al⯑moſt every native production of the empire is raiſed.

Upper Auſtria is mountainous, particularly towards Stiria and Bohemia, in which countries ſeveral tracts alſo lie uncultivated. The ſoil of Upper Auſtria, on account of its numerous water-ſprings, is wet, and the air, all the year round, moiſt and cool; which latter property ſeems to be owing to its ſaline earth, and chiefly to the ſituation of the country; for as it lies on the ſhady ſide of the mountains of Upper [83] Stiria and Saltzburg, the warm ſoutherly and weſterly winds are thereby precluded acceſs.

Upper Auſtria, on account of the nature of its ſoil and air, as juſt deſcribed, is uncommonly fertile in muſhrooms, and it is likewiſe for the very ſame reaſon, that the inhabitants plant a vaſt number of fruit-trees. In corn it has not a ſufficiency; but that deficiency is ſupplied by Lower Auſtria. The breed of cattle here is pretty good. They abound alſo in all ſorts of game.

Near Munden is a conſiderable mine of ſalt, out of which both the cryſtal and variegated ſort is dug, but the latter of theſe is little eſteemed. In theſe parts alſo freſh water is conveyed into the ſalt-works, or pits, which after it has impregnated itſelf with alcaline particles, is extracted by machines, and conducted through canals to the diſtance of four miles for boil⯑ing.

The rivers and lakes here yield many ſorts of fiſh. There are alſo two medicinal baths in this country, one at Millack and diſtrict of Miſel, near the Da⯑nube; and the other at Kirchſlag, near the borders of Bohemia, and diſtrict of Mackland.

In Lower Auſtria are fifteen royal towns, together with eighteen others belonging to particular lords, as [84] alſo market-towns, and many common boroughs, foundations, and cloyſters, which enjoy both ſeat and voice with the country; as alſo ſome cloyſters, cita⯑dels and noblemens ſeats.

In Upper Auſtria are ſeven royal towns, together with five belonging to particular lords, 81 market towns, many common boroughs, 13 foundations and cloyſters, which enjoy both ſeat and voice with the country; two knights-commanderies, two colleges, one reſidence of jeſuits, 17 other cloyſters, and 217 citadels and noblemens ſeats.

The Auſtrian-German dialect, which differs greatly from the High-Dutch, is ſpoken from the Adriatic ſea, to the N.—N. W. and weſterly quite as far as Sileſia, Saxony, Franconia, Suabia, and Swiſſerland. It alſo extends itſelf to the E. and S. through Hungary and the Sclavonian territories, yet there is an obſervable dif⯑ference in the pronunciation, and in a few particular words uſed in certain parts of this large tract of country.

The ſtates of this country conſiſt of four orders, viz. 1ſt, Of the prelates, under which title are included biſhops, abbots, and provoſts. 2d. Of lords, under which claſs are reckoned princes, counts, and ba⯑rons. 3d. Of the knights. 4th. Of the towns and markets.

[85]The nobility of this circle are numerous and power⯑ful, and divided into two ranks, one of counts, the other knights. The eſtates of the nobility are either allodial or feudal. The elector of Brandenburg pre⯑ſides by his deputies the margraves, over the fief court of Auſtria, which conſiſts of the commiſſary, the fief provoſt, and fief advocate. But the party aggrieved may appeal to the Auſtrian government. And for the differences between lords and vaſſals, a main court is generally appointed. This is alſo obſerved by the archbiſhop of Saltzburg, together with the biſhops of Bamberg, Paſſau, Ratiſbon, Freyſingen, and others, who are poſſeſſed of vaſſals in Auſtria, Stiria, and Ca⯑rinthia.

The ſciences here are in an improving condition. For the promotion of learning in this country have been eſtabliſhed the lower ſchools and Gymnaſia, to⯑gether with the univerſity of Vienna, which ever ſince the year 1752, has been put on a better footing, as alſo the Thereſian college. The importation of fo⯑reign commodities is prohibited under great reſtric⯑tions. The exports of this circle are chiefly ſaffron, wine, allum, and gun-powder.

To the high privileges of the houſe of Auſtria, be⯑longs an arch-ducal title, which no other prince in the world bears, and which in the year 1245, was raiſed to the royal dignity. The arch-dukes are at liberty to [86] appear, or not, at the diets of the empire, agreeably to their pleaſure. They are exempt from the taxes of the empire, yet are under the immediate protection of it.

The particular colleges for Lower and Upper Auſ⯑tria, are the Imperial royal repreſentation and cham⯑ber, as alſo the government in matters of juſtice, or the land government for Lower Auſtria at Vienna, with two colleges of the ſame nature at Lintz, for Upper Auſtria; the juſtice-council in Lower and Upper Auſtria, together with the Imperial royal town and land judicatory.

The civil law is alſo in force in Auſtria; unleſs where the ſovereign or the land uſage has prohibited it: as in both caſes it has no precedence. To the revenues of the ſovereign belong the collections and ſubſidies which the ſtates grant.

Vienna is the principal city, and being the reſidence of the Emperor, is accounted the capital of all Ger⯑many. This city lies on a branch of the Danube; its ſituation is pleaſant, as the E. and N. country around it are entirely level; but to the W. and S. are ſeen an entire range of mountains, covered with trees and vines; the Danube here is wide, and divides itſelf into ſeveral arms, forming ſo many iſlands, which are planted with wood.

[87]The city is not ſeated upon the head channel of the Danube, but a part of it, for here it divides itſelf into ſeven branches, forming ſeveral diſtinct iſlands. The river Wien-paſſes on the eaſt ſide of the town, and a little below it falls into the Danube. After heavy rains this little river ſwells prodigiouſly, and does a great deal of miſchief in the ſuburbs.

There is a remarkable bridge at Vienna, called the High Bridge, made by croſſing the two ſtreets at right angles; but as the ground in one ſtreet is as high as the tops of the houſes of the other, it was found neceſſary to build a bridge in the lower ſtreet, to let the upper ſtreet paſs over it; ſo that the lower ſtreet paſſes under the arch of this bridge.

The city of Vienna, independent of the ſuburbs, is not very large, as a perſon may walk round the Gla⯑cis in an hour; it is well fortified, having a ſtrong rampart with 11 ſtout baſtions, 10 ravelins, very broad and deep ditches, with neceſſary outworks. The number of the inhabitants from pretty exact computations, does not exceed 50,000; but the ſub⯑urbs, which all round exceed 5 or 600 paces from the fortification of the city take up a great deal of ground, which make the aggregate of the inhabitants to be about 500,000. The ſtreets are very narrow and winding, and the fronts of the houſes are alſo very [88] narrow and extremely high, ſome of them being eight ſtories. The palaces of Vienna are indeed, for the moſt part almoſt hid in narrow ſtreets; but in ſplen⯑dor and magnificence they greatly ſurpaſs the hotels of Paris; but more eſpecially if we take in the noble ſtructures in the ſuburbs.

Vienna however is a noble and ſtrong city, and the princes of the Houſe of Auſtria, have omitted nothing that could contribute to its grandeur and riches: it contains an excellent univerſity, a bank, which is in the management of its own directors, or magiſtracy, and a court of commerce.

One of the ſuburbs ſtands on an iſland in the Da⯑nube, ſo that the river runs through the town. The garriſon here conſiſts of one regiment of foot. Out of the countries belonging to the Emperor lying on the Danube, and of courſe out of Bohemia, Moravia, Hungary, Stiria, Tyrol, and Italy, all ſorts of pro⯑viſions, together with neceſſary and agreeable things are brought here. The proteſtants frequent the wor⯑ſhip held in the houſes of the proteſtant ambaſſadors. In the city are all ſorts of artiſts, manufactures, and handicraftmen, &c. The many high colleges and ju⯑dicatures, which have their ſeat here, add to the cre⯑dit and vivacity of the place.

[89]Vienna certainly ſtands upon much more ground than Paris, but it is not ſo much built upon. No houſes without the walls of Vienna are not allowed to be erected, nearer to the glacis, than 600 yards; ſo that there is a circular field of 600 paces all round the town, which has a beautiful and ſalutary effect. Be⯑yond this plain, the ſuburbs are built, and there are ſix and twenty of them; thus they form a very ex⯑tenſive and magnificent town of an irregularly cir⯑cular form, containing within its boſom, a ſpacious field; which has for its centre the Imperial town of Vienna, conſiſting only of 1230 houſes, and theſe very narrow.

Theſe magnificent ſuburbs, are not near ſo populous as the town, becauſe many houſes in the ſuburbs have extenſive gardens belonging to them; and many fa⯑milies who live, during the winter, within the fortifica⯑tions, paſs the ſummer months in the ſuburbs. Reiſbec ſays, there are three or four hundred ſuch garderns; the air and water are much better here than at Paris, of courſe the city is more wholeſome as a place of re⯑ſidence.

There are ſcarce eight buildings in the whole city, which can be called beautiful or magni⯑ficent. The moſt diſtinguiſhed of theſe are the palace of Leichſtenſtein, the Emperor's library and the chancery. The Emperor's palace is an old black [90] building, that has neither beauty nor ſtatelineſs. It is a great maſs of ſtone, which was built ſeven ſtories high, in order to contain as many people as poſſible. It conſiſts of ſeveral courts, ſurrounded with irregular buildings; the apartments are neither ſpacious, nor furniſhed equal to what one might expect at one of the moſt expenſive courts in Europe. Though there are 15 ſquares or places, there are hardly three which make any figure. The greateſt thoroughfare is from the palace over the coal-market, the Graben, the Stirkameiſenglaſs, and through the Carnthnerſtraſſe. In either places the thoroughfare is as great, and the motion as lively as in any ſtreet of London or Paris. There are not more than eight buildings, worth look⯑ing at, in the ſuburbs; and the taſte of the build⯑ings, about the gardens and ſummer-houſes, is mi⯑ſerable. The ſtreets, which are about 80, are crooked and narrow; and, in the winter, are lighted with lanterns.

It would be endleſs to enumerate the many palaces, two of which are Imperial, of this capital; its acade⯑mies and libraries, and, among others, the fine one of prince Eugene, with his and the Imperial cabinet of curioſities hereafter deſcribed. Among its rich convents is one for the Scotch nation, built in honour of their countryman, St. Colman, the patron of Au⯑ſtria; and one of the ſix gates of this city is called the [91] Scotch gate, in remembrance of ſome noble exploits performed there by the troops of that nation.

After all that has been ſaid of this magnificent city, the moſt candid and ſenſible of thoſe who have vi⯑ſited it, are far from being laviſh in its praiſe: the houſes and furniture of the citizens are greatly diſ⯑proportioned to the magnificence of the palaces, and other public buildings; but, above all, the exceſſive impoſts laid by the houſe of Auſtria, upon every commodity in its dominions, muſt always keep the manufacturing part of their ſubjects poor.

The late emperor, Joſeph II. was ſenſible of the truths which were plain to all the world, but his pre⯑deceſſors and their counſellors: he examined things with his own eyes, and deſcended from that haughti⯑neſs of demeanour which rendered the Imperial court ſo long diſagreeable, and indeed ridiculous to the reſt of Europe. In general, the condition of the Auſtrian ſubjects has been greatly meliorated under his government.

What diſtinguiſhes the people of this place from the Pariſians, ſays Reiſbec, is a coarſe pride not to be deſcribed, an unſurmountable heavineſs and ſtupidity, and an unaccountable propenſity to guzzling; the hoſpitality of the table, about which great noiſe has been made, is only the effect of pride. It is the cuſ⯑tom, [92] when a man is firſt introduced into a new houſe, to ſix a day in every week for him to be a regular gueſt there, and are greatly offended if he forgets it. The middle rank of people have five or ſix diſhes at dinner, over which they ſit, at leaſt, two hours, and have three or four ſorts of wine.

At the beſt tables, of the ſecond order, you com⯑monly meet a monk, but more commonly a player, whoſe very refined air enlivens the whole company. The monk is generally ſerved by the lady of the houſe, with whom he coquets, and the player is ſeated at the other end, and laughs at them, till the whole company breaks out into ſhouts of laughter, far above the capacity of common lungs or ears either to join in or to bear.

Nobody here makes remarks upon the miniſter or the court; nor entertains his company with the news of the day. None here ſpeaks in public at the ex⯑pence of his neighbour; but the public places of re⯑ſort are all adapted to eating and drinking, inſtead of talking. They breakfaſt till they dine, and dine till they ſup, with only the interval, perhaps, of a ſhort walk, or going to the play.

If you go into a coffee-houſe, of which there are about 70 at Vienna, or into a beer-houſe, which are the moſt elegant and beſt furniſhed of all the public [93] houſes (I ſaw one, ſays Reiſbec, with red damaſk ta⯑peſtry, pictures with gilt frames, looking-glaſſes, clocks, a la Grecque, and marble tables) you will ſee nothing but a perpetual motion of jaws. No one in theſe places talks, but to his neighbour, and that in a whiſper, ſo that one would think they took one an⯑other for ſpies.

Notwithſtanding the care that is taken by the Em⯑peror of the morals of his ſubjects, all the charities here depend on the court alone for ſupport. I queſ⯑tion, ſays Reiſbec, whether it would be poſſible to get a collection of 10,000 guilders at Vienna. Though this place has ſeveral houſes in it, with which the moſt opulent in Paris cannot be compared; pride, gallantry and diſſipation are all the feelings the people of Vi⯑enna are ſuſceptible of. Though moſt of the richeſt people have been, for years, oppreſſed with debts, they have not yet learned to confine their expences, and would think it a ſhame to live within bounds. As to the middling orders, they live from hand to mouth, and are well ſatisfied if, at the cloſe of the year, they can make both ends meet. Economy is a term un⯑known here; every man ſwills and lives for the plea⯑ſure of ſenſuality.

In ſome houſes the maſters of which affect to live in the higheſt ſtate, it is cuſtomary when an entertain⯑ment is given, to provide doſes of tartar emetic, and [94] ſet them in the adjoining room: here the gueſts retire when they happen to be too full, empty themſelves, and return to the company again, as if nothing had happened, and this, ſays Reiſbec, is a characteriſtic of the country.

There are a great number of ſinecure offices in the country, but many counſellors and aſſeſſors have either nothing to do, or appoint deputies to do the duty for a very little money. The luxury in which theſe peo⯑ple live is beyond conception; his honour (for every pettifogging judge of the court of conſcience is ſo ſtiled) muſt have his gentleman; and her honour, his wife, muſt have her waiting lady, nor is it, as it is with us, where between the gentleman and the foot⯑man, there are no intermediate ranks; here there muſt be a maitre a'hotel and a ſecretary, and as his ho⯑nour has great buſineſs every where but in his own court, he muſt likewiſe have his coach. In a word there is not a court in Europe, except the Turkiſh, which pays its officers of the ſecond order ſo well as this, and yet is ſo ill ſerved by them.

Notwithſtanding many great princes at Vienna have vaſt eſtates, they are moſtly in debt. In moſt coun⯑tries ſome one favourite luxury has the aſcendancy, but here they all reign, and are all carried to the utmoſt exceſs. Here are ſeveral ſtables of 50, 60, or more horſes; whoever has an eſtate of 50 or 60,000 florins, [95] muſt have from 24 to 30 horſes, and it is a moderate eſtabliſhment, ſays Reiſbec, which conſiſts only of a maitre d'hotel, a ſecretary, a valet de chambre, two run⯑ning footmen, two huntſmen, two coachmen, five or ſix footmen, and a porter. The houſes of Lichtenſtein, Eſterhazy, Schwartzenburg, and ſome others, keep 50 footmen, and the two former have a body-guard. A ſingle plate of fruit often coſts from 60 to 70 florins; and Count Palm once appeared in a coat that had coſt him 90,000 guilders. (£.3000 Engliſh) It is com⯑mon to give from 30 to 40,000 florins for a lady's dreſs, and though hazard is forbidden, there are ſe⯑veral games at which you may lofe from 15 to 20,000 florins at a ſitting.

The women of this place are handſome and well made, but have no colour, and their faces are not in⯑tereſting. They are eaſy and lively in their motions, and alſo in their gait and their ſpeech. They are more compoſed, more determined and more manly, than the French women, but not ſo heroic as the Engliſh women. I cannot give you a better idea of them, than by telling you they are between the French and Engliſh.

A tinge of ſuperſtition, peculiar to the women of this place, is united to great ſenſibility of heart, and rather tends to increaſe, than to repreſs love, friend⯑ſhip and benevolence.

[96] Moore has made ſome good obſervations upon this ſubject; but nothing gives a better idea of it than ſeeing a lady beſpeak maſſes in a convent, and give alms, with a wiſh that God may recover her ſick ciciſbeo.

The Ciciſbeat is upon the ſame footing here as in Italy; it ſubſiſts among the great as a mode that has been once eſtabliſhed; the poor take it up as a mat⯑ter of trade, and it is only amongſt the merchants and manufacturers that jealouſy prevails: I ſhall here preſent our readers with an anecdote from Reiſbec, which he vouches for, as being a fact.

A man of faſhion having been rather too frequent in his viſits to a rich tradeſman's wife; the huſband, who was diſpleaſed with the intercourſe, as every fond huſband ſhould, took the following method of putting a ſtop to it:—One morning, when he knew the loving couple were together, he ordered all his ſervants to be in waiting with flambeaux on the ſtairs; he then ſtept into the room, and told his excellency that his ſervants were come to light him home; the other was exceedingly ſurprized, but affected not to underſtand him; upon which the merchant immedi⯑ately took him by the arm, and led him very cere⯑moniouſly into the ſtreet, the ſervants holding the lighted flambeaux on every ſide, although it was about mid-day, which brought together a concourſe [97] of people, to the great diſgrace and confuſion of the guilty nobleman, and the remedy took the deſired effect.

In the ſhort time I was there, ſays Reiſbec, I ſaw more ſplendid equipages and horſes than there are in all Paris. French faſhions prevail here univerſally. Dreſſed dolls are regularly ſent from Paris, for the purpoſe of teaching the women to put on their gowns and dreſs their heads: even the men get, from time to time, memoranda from Paris, and lay them before their taylors and hair-dreſſers. All the women are painted up to the eyes and ears, as at Paris. The knowing ones tell you, that the eyes acquire a kind of fire by theſe means, which gives an inexpreſſible animation to the whole look. Indeed, paint ſeems a neceſſary evil to hide the yellowneſs of their ſkins. I ſaw ſeveral of them, ſays Reiſbec, who had every reaſon to cry out, La verole, mon Diéu, má rougé juſqu'aux os.

It is not here as at Paris, where there is an office in every part of the city, giving an account of what houſes or lodgings are to let, and for what price. Here every owner of a houſe puts up a bill before his door, ſtating very circumſtantially what rooms he has empty.

[98]And as the houſes conſiſt of five or ſix ſtories, and each ſtory has an owner, who may have a room or an apartment to let, you often find the doors plaiſtered all over with bills; and may be near half an hour reading, before you get the information you wiſh. The firſt room, ſays Reiſbec, who hunted for a lodg⯑ing, the firſt room I ſaw, was up four pair of ſtairs; the looks of it did not diſpleaſe me, but I diſliked the owner, and inſtantly trudged to another that was up ſix pair of ſtairs; and when I got to the top, there came out of a lower apartment a little diminu⯑tive man in a night-gown: he had a pen behind his ear, and was followed by a maid, who gave him the appellation of your honour. Only your honour, thought I, may do: I ſhould have been off at a higher title; I went into the room, and was half induced, by the pure air I breathed in theſe upper regions, to cloſe the agree⯑ment; but opening the window, and ſeeing nothing but a proſpect of roofs and chimnies, I altered my mind. I ſaw ſix apartments that day without finding any thing that would ſuit. Among other landlords we met with an excellence, rather a magnificence, (for, I had choice of titles) who lived in the back part of a ground floor, and with whom I did not chooſe to partake of the foul air he breathed. The next day's ſally opened with a gnadige frau, who recommended her fraeleii tochter to me for ſo many things, that it was impoſſible to think of coming to an agreement with her. 'Look here,' ſays ſhe, 'my daughter, her⯑ſelf, [99] will bring you your coffee in the morning; if you chooſe tea in an afternoon, my daughter, herſelf, will attend you; if you chooſe to go now and then to the play, my daughter, herſelf, will accompany you,' and ſo on. For it is not in Germany as at Paris; where a woman of character conſiders it as an affront to be of⯑fered to be treated to a public place, by one who is not a relation or a particular friend. Here it is the cuſtom to frank women, wherever you go with them, and I ſoon ſaw that the pretty girl's ſervices were in⯑cluded in the price of the lodging; ſo off I was again, and tired myſelf another day with ſearching for what I could not find, namely, an apartment to my liking. The beſt houſes in the town are very dear, becauſe the ſecond ſtory of every ſuch houſe is allotted for the reſidence of the imperial court officers. From ſix, to eight guilders a month, is paid for one of the beſt rooms in a good ſtreet, and three, for one of the worſt. Thoſe who lodge in the ſuburbs can⯑not ſtir out in ſummer without being choaked with duſt. Vienna lies open to the drying eaſt and north winds; but is protected, by its neighbouring hills, from the ſouth and weſt. When it has rained here a whole night, all is dry again a few hours after ſun⯑riſe; and, by noon, the clouds of duſt begin to riſe. Indeed, when it rains more than a day, the duſt is all mud, and very deep. Thoſe who croſs from the ſub⯑urbs to the citadel, muſt paſs over the naked plain that parts them, and put his handkerchief in his [100] mouth, that it may not be filled with duſt. The hackney coaches of this place are always on a trot or gallop; and it requires care, in ſome ſtreets, to paſs through the clouds of duſt, without being run over by a coach, or running againſt ſome traveller.

Many families in this city live by letting their houſes; there are ſeveral habitations, ſays Reiſbec, worth from two to 300,000 guilders, or from 20 to 30,000l. a year, which conſtitutes the whole fortune of their poſſeſſors. Any man out of debt, and who has a houſe in this city, is accounted a rich man. The houſe of the bookſeller, Trattnem, is an object of 30,000 guilders, or 3000l. a year to him. The houſes at Paris are more magnificent than thoſe at Vienna; but, owing to the walls and gates before them, they make but little appearance.

Among the eccleſiaſtical buildings at Vienna, the principal is St. Stephen's church, a Gothic ſtructure, adorned with many pieces of ſculpture, and the roof of which is covered with glazed tiles of various co⯑lours. If the tower of Straſburg is looked upon as the moſt curious, and that of Landſhutter to be the fineſt in Europe, St. Stephen's tower is unqueſtionably the ſtrongeſt; which, as well as the church, is built with large ſquare blocks of free-ſtone, faſtened together with iron braces. The height of this tower is 74 fa⯑thoms, three feet and a half, it was finiſhed in [101] 1400, and contains a bell, according to Dr. Kuchel⯑becker, above 10 feet high and 32 in circumference, which, without the clapper, weighs 1328 lb. the whole weight of the bell, iron-work, &c. amounts to 25 tons and 1400 lb. The church is ſo very dark that, even at noon; a diſtinct view of its ſeveral objects cannot be had. It has a ſuperb marble tomb of the emperor Frederick III. which is ſaid to have coſt 30,000 ducats.

Of late years, ſays Keyſler, if any woman enters St. Stephen's church, or any other large church at Vienna, in a French ſack, ſhe is immediately ordered to withdraw. It was grown a cuſtom among the la⯑dies at Vienna, in the morning, to ſlip on a ſack with⯑out ſtays, or hardly any other covering; and, in that garb, hurry away to maſs, which indecent cuſtom occaſioned this Imperial prohibition. The clergy, from the pulpit, have given vent to their zeal againſt ſuch looſe dreſſes in very bitter terms. One, with great warmth, exclaimed, "that the women came to church in ſacks, not to repent, as believers of old uſed to do in ſackcloth and aſhes; but the better to expoſe their wares to ſale; ſo that no prieſt in admi⯑niſtering the ſacrament could, with a ſafe conſcience, look at them." Another indecently threatened, 'that if he ever ſaw a lady with her neck uncovered, he would ſpit down her boſom.' A little before the wearing of ſacks in churches was ſuppreſſed, three [102] ladies, with bare necks and dreſſed in the above⯑mentioned robe, preſented themſelves for the com⯑munion, among other perſons round the altar; but the prieſt paſſed by them, as if he had overlooked them.

In that part of the ſuburbs called Wieden, their late Imperial majeſties began to build a moſt magni⯑ficent church, in purſuance of a vow made in the time of the peſtilence, but it will be many years in finiſh⯑ing. Without the city, near the court, the empreſs dowager, Wilhelmina Amelia, has built a nunnery for ladies. Theſe nuns obſerve the rule of St. Francès de Sales; and, among other vows, engage themſelves to educate and inſtruct young ladies of noble families; and on account of the illuſtrious founder, it is ac⯑counted a very great honour for a young lady to be admitted into this convent for a few years. On the large area called the Hoff, oppoſite to the noviciate college, ſtands a braſs pillar erected by the emperor Leopold, in 1667. On this pillar is a maſterly figure of the Virgin Mary; and the gilding, though expoſed to all the injuries of the weather, ſtill retains its luſtre. This ſame emperor, in 1693, erected another pil⯑lar to the Holy Trinity, in the moat called by that name; it coſt 300,000 guilders; and is an ad⯑mirable piece of architecture, built with ſtone, 66 feet in height.

[103]Formerly it was uſual for people, by way of amuſe⯑ment, to ſit round theſe pillars, which often produced many pleaſing incidents; but a company, among which were ſeveral counteſſes, having, by way of di⯑verſion, given too much to the ſoldier on guard, at the Virgin Mary's pillar, ſuch a diſturbance enſued as cauſed theſe aſſemblies to be forbidden; at preſent, people only kneel round them; but, in the evening, the reſort does not ſo much proceed from devotion, as from appointments of aſſignation.

But of all the buildings at Vienna, the palace of prince Eugene, in the ſuburbs, is undoubtedly the fineſt. It has a ſuite of eleven rooms in a direct line, in the front and the towers at the angles, and another of ſeven rooms in the wings. In the room adjoining the prince's bedchamber are ſeveral exquiſite pieces of painting in little; and in the next apartment is a luſtre of rock cryſtal, valued at 20,000 guilders; here is alſo a Dutch painting, which coſt 13,000 guilders, repreſenting an old woman on her death-bed, with her daughter on her knees, taking leave of her, whilſt her maid is ſtirring a medicine in a ſpoon, and the phyſi⯑cian looking into the urinal. Among the excellent paintings in the other apartments are a piece repre⯑ſenting Adam and Eve, as large as life, ſaid to have coſt 50,000 guilders; a woman embracing a youth in a bath, valued at 30,000, with Endymion and [104] Diana, worth 12,000 guilders; a guilder is 2s. 4d. ſterling.

The gardens lie in a ſlope, and are very well adapt⯑ted for the elegant water-works there exhibited. In one part, called Paradiſe, is a ſpacious aviary made of curious wire-work, with beautiful walks and gilt ſummer-houſes; alſo a fine orangery, where ſome of the trees remain out all winter, with a cover only over the tops of them. The ſpecies of uncommon herbs growing here are computed at 2000. In this palace is alſo a fine menagerie. There is another palace with⯑in the city, in which Prince Eugene reſided in winter, a ſuperb building magnificently furniſhed, with very ex⯑penſive articles and coſtly pictures. Here is a chimney-piece of grey marble that coſt 20,000 guilders, and a cryſtal luſtre that coſt 10,000. In this palace is a fine library, conſiſting of 14,000 volumes, moſtly folios, gilt, lettered, and bound in red Turkey, and a fine collection of engraved portraits, conſiſting of 48 vo⯑lumes of illuſtrious perſons in France, 61 volumes of thoſe in Germany, ten of the United Provinces, nine of the Spaniſh Netherlands, &c. two of Lorrain, 13 of Great-Britain, &c.

The Prince of Lichtenſtern has three palaces in Vienna, with fine paintings and great curioſities. The great ſtaircaſe in one of theſe palaces conſiſts of two flights, and every ſtep being a ſingle block of red [105] marble, ſeven common paces long, coſt 60 guilders. In the two flights are 108 ſteps. In ſhort, Italy which is famed for magnificent ſtructures affords very few equal to this: the walks, parterres, water-works, and ſtatues, make the garden a moſt delightful place, and it commands a fine proſpect.

Cloſe by Prince Eugene's gardens in the ſuburbs, is the Prince of Schwartzenburgh's palace, celebrated for its gardens. The ſumptuouſneſs of this edifice eclipſes the Favorita, or Imperial palace that ſtands near it. The place was built by the late Prince of Fondi, and coſt 300,000 guilders, but his heirs after his deceaſe ſold it to Prince Schwartzenburgh for 50,000 dollars, who expended on it 300,000 dollars more. This laſt owner was killed in hunting in the year 1732. The ſaloons, ſtair-caſes, marble tables, looking-glaſſes, porcelain vaſes, paintings, beds, and other rich fur⯑niture, make this one of the fineſt palaces in or near Vienna. The trees in the large orangery ſtand here alſo in the open ground, but are ſheltered in winter by a little ſhed placed over them, and which can oc⯑caſionally be warmed. The walks, groves, and water-works, are extremely beautiful; the laſt are ſupplied by a hydraulic machine, worked by fire, which coſt near 20,000 guilders, and throws up in 24 hours into a large reſervoir above, 11,880 hogſheads of water. The honour of this invention is due to the Engliſh, and is ſuch as are uſed in ſome coal-mines in Scotland [106] for draining them. It is ſuch a one as is uſed at York Buildings, London, to ſupply that part of the town with water.

On the red tower here hangs the flitch of bacon, (though at preſent made of rind) which, according to the common ſtory, may be claimed by that extraor⯑dinary perſon who can prove that he abſolutely rules his wife.

Every court in Germany produces a ſort of petit muſeum, or cabinet of curioſities, artificial and natu⯑ral, ancient and modern. The Imperial library at Vienna is a great literary rarity, on account of its an⯑cient MSS. It contains upwards of 80,000 volumes, among which are many valuable MSS. in Hebrew, Syriac, Arabic, Turkiſh, Armenian, Coptic, and Chineſe; but the antiquity of ſome of them is queſ⯑tionable, particularly a new teſtament in Greek, ſaid to be written 1500 years ago in gold letters, upon purple. Here are likewiſe many thouſand Greek, Roman, and Gothic coins and medals; with a vaſt collection of other curioſities in art and na⯑ture.

It is very lofty, and adorned with good paintings in freſco, ſculpture, and a ſuperb gallery, ſo that it has the appearance of a temple. The importance of [107] its manuſcripts may be ſeen in Lambecci's Bibliothe⯑ca Vindobonenſis, publiſhed in 10 vols. folio, as alſo in Neſſelius's catalogue. They are ſaid to be above 10,000 in number. Among the Greek MSS, is a very ancient Dioſcorides, written in a large character on vellum, with the herbs painted in their natural co⯑lours. In truth, this library is inferior to none but the Vatican at Rome, and that of the King of France; theſe may exceed it as to manuſcripts, but not in printed volumes, which are far above 100,000. Here are likewiſe a Greek tranſlation of Geneſis, ſuppoſed to be above 1200 years old, illuſtrated with near 50 hiſto⯑rical paintings, Ptolomy's Geography finely written, and Nicephorus's Eccleſiaſtical hiſtory; the only Greek MS. from which all the editions of that author have been publiſhed. Among the Latin MSS. is a Livy, which is of great antiquity, being written in capitals, and without points: but thoſe decads which are want⯑ing in the other copies are alſo miſſing here. Here is alſo a vellum MS. of the golden Bull, illuminated with many golden letters. It is written in the year 1400, by order of the emperor Winceſlaus.

On the firſt page, and in the firſt letter, which hap⯑pens to be a W, the initial of the emperor's name, he is repreſented as being in priſon at Prague, bound with hand-cuffs, and his feet confined in the ſtocks. Near him is a repreſentation of his maid ſervant Su⯑ſanna, by whoſe aſſiſtance he made his eſcape. Here [108] are alſo eight volumes of Jacobus de Strada's treatiſe of medals.

The collection of medals in this library conſiſts of no leſs than 16,000 ancient and modern. Here is alſo ſhewn a tooth weighing ſeveral pounds, which is pretended to have belonged to a giant, but in reality is one of the dentes molares of a whale.

The model of the quick-ſilver mines at Idra, will be viewed with great pleaſure by the lovers of mechanics.

At the end of the library, is a particular cabinet ap⯑pointed for antient, Roman inſcriptions and monu⯑ments; and a conſiderable collection is to be ſeen by the curious inſpector.

The expence of this library annually including the ſalary of officers and ſervants belonging to it, is about 12,000 guldens, or 400l. Britiſh money.

The library is open every day; the Emperor's chief librarian is always the firſt phyſician, who ap⯑points two ſub-librarians. The attention paid to fo⯑reigners who viſit this royal collection is both pleaſ⯑ing and flattering, as true politeneſs is ſcrupulouſly obſerved.

[109]The Imperial muſeum is in the caſtle; and one can⯑not, without aſtoniſhment, ſee the infinite variety of curioſities in gold, ſilver, ivory, and mother of pearl; mathematical inſtruments of exquiſite workmanſhip, excellent pictures, antique intaglios; vaſes of agate, jaſper, cryſtal, garnet, emerald, &c. jewels of ineſti⯑able value, and abundance of reliques.

One of the moſt remarkable curioſities in this mu⯑ſeum is a large bowl of agate, three ſpans in diame⯑ter, in the middle of which are theſe characters, ſaid to be delineated by nature. ‘B. XRIS R. S. XXX.’ which is thus deciphered:

‘To Chriſt the Saviour of the world, the King eter⯑nal, the crucified Triune.’

The three croſſes, and particularly the laſt, are ſomewhat obſcure; and no ſmall ſtrength of imagina⯑tion is required to make them ſignify Tri-uno cruci⯑fixo.

This bowl is ſaid to be a Fidei Commiſſum, or feoff⯑ment of truſt, brought hither as part of the inheritance of the houſe of Burgundy.

[110]In this muſeum is alſo to be ſeen, among other pieces, the city of Buda, the Duchy of Auſtria, and the arms of Hungary, on three pieces of agate; but how far art may have aſſiſted nature in theſe repreſen⯑tations cannot be determined without an accurate ex⯑amination. In the mean time I apprehend, that the above-mentioned agate bowl will be of no more weight towards the conviction of anti-trinitarians, than the natural repreſentation of Apollo and the muſes on an agate in the poſſeſſion of King Pyrrhus, in convincing the ancients of the divinity of thoſe imaginary perſons.

This collection has a curious ſpecimen of the trans⯑mutation of metals, to which the favourers of alchymy with great confidence appeal; particularly a very thick gold medal, weighing 300 ducats; with this inſcrip⯑tion: ‘Performed at Prague, on the 16th of January, 1648, in the preſence of his Imperial majeſty Fer⯑dinand the Third.’

The artifices which pretenders in alchymy generally make uſe of to blind thoſe whom they have once drawn in, are too numerous to be related.

It is ſurpriſing, that in our enlightened age, ſuch impoſtors ſhould meet with any dupes to impoſe on, ſince the hiſtory of former ages have detected ſo many palpable frauds practiſed by them. The projectors at [111] Worms who have been ſtigmatiſed for their decep⯑tions, ſeem to have been followed by the late unfortu⯑nate, but ingenious Dr. Price, F. R. S. for having once got through the fiery ordeal of alchymy, his fame ſoared aloft on eagles wings, and he was extolled to the ſkies as the golden idol of the day; but alas! all hu⯑man acquiſitions are vain and tranſitory; for, on being required by his brethren of the Royal Society to perform the like proceſs before that auguſt body of the litera⯑ti; ſo great was his ſhock, confident he could not deceive the cloſe and minute examination of the philo⯑ſophers who were to be his judges, that he put a pe⯑riod to his exiſtence, A. D. 1782.

To the curious reader, the proceſs of our own in⯑genious countryman muſt be very ſatisfactory; it was as follows:

He melted together one part of fine gold, and two of ſilver, which he beat into thin leaves, and cut into very ſmall pieces; and then he made a very ſtrong powder of crocus martis, which he mixed with cor⯑roſive ſulphur, ſalts, and pulverized pumice-ſtone; and incoporating them with the prepared metal; he burnt the maſs in an intenſe fire, repeating the pro⯑ceſs three times. At laſt, he ſeparated the ſilver from it with aqua-fortis, and produced ſome gold, which ſtood the teſt both of the aqua-fortis, and the cup⯑pel. The proceſs was accounted juſt and authen⯑tic, [112] till by the means of antimony, the impoſture was diſcovered.

But to return to our ſubject. Among the pictures in this muſeum, is that of Cupid ſcraping and poliſh⯑ing his bow, ſaid to be an original by Corregio, and is valued at 18,000 ducats.

Here are alſo ſeveral other fine paintings; but the pic⯑ture-gallery and Imperial chamber of curioſities particu⯑larly deſerve a traveller's notice. In the anti-chamber, are two portraits, with this inſcription in High Dutch: ‘Janos Rovin, aged a hundred and ſeventy-two, and Sarah his wife, aged a hundred and ſixty-four years, both of the Greek communion; they lived together in wedlock and hundred and forty-ſeven years. They were born and lived at Stadova, in the diſtrict of Curanſezeſer and the Bannerate of Tameſ⯑waer; and had iſſue two ſons and two daughters, who are ſtill living; the youngeſt ſon is in his hun⯑dredth and ſixteenth year, &c.’

Among the many pieces in the gallery, the follow⯑ing are the moſt remarkable, viz. A Pietâ, by Andrew Del Sarto; St. Margaretta by Raphael, which coſt 26,000 guilders, and our Saviour ſtanding before Pi⯑late ſitting on the tribunal, by Titian, valued at 60,000 ſcudi, or crowns; the Rape of Proſerpine, by Solimene, is remarkable for its fine amber frame.

[113]In the fourth apartment of the muſeum is ſeriouſly ſhewn a daemon or familiar ſpirit, which, being con⯑jured out of a daemoniac, was confined in a glaſs; but, in reality, is nothing but a dark coloured piece of moſs, or ſome ſuch ſpecies of the vegetable king⯑dom, naturally incloſed within a triangular piece of chryſtal, which, in ſhape, has ſome reſemblance of a little man.

Among the diverſions of the Imperial court, thoſe of the carnival are not the leaſt, though the ſtrictneſs of the ceremonial checks the liberty and freedom al⯑lowed at other courts in the carnival maſquerades. No ladies but thoſe who have acceſs to the empreſs's chamber are admitted at court on theſe occaſions. The Emperor generally dances ſeveral times with the empreſs and archducheſſes; but the empreſs dances with the Emperor only. In country dances their Im⯑perial majeſties are ſpectators only, but the archdu⯑cheſſes mingle with the company. Some months be⯑fore the carnival, lots are drawn; and, from that time, the gallant is obliged to wait upon the lady, his part⯑ner, every day with a noſegay of natural or artificial flowers, with ribbands and ſuch little preſents. The cavalier is likewiſe to provide his lady's dreſs; ſo that the whole expence to him is ſeldom leſs than 3000 guilders. Beſides, if the weather prove ſnowy, the expence of a ſledge, &c. amount to near 500 guineas, [114] Engliſh. For, on this occaſion, every one ſtrives to outſhine each other in the ſplendor of their liveries.

The opera at Vienna is carried on at the expence of the Emperor; and, on certain gala days, coſts him a conſiderable deal of money; for the magnificence of the theatre, the ſplendor of the decorations, the rich⯑neſs of the habits, and the performance in the or⯑cheſtra, ſurpaſs any thing of the kind in Europe. The band of muſic for the Imperial chapel and the pa⯑lace conſiſts of above 120 perſons; and ſtands the Em⯑peror, at leaſt, in 200,000 guilders a year; tho' ſeveral of the female vocal performers have a ſalary of 6000 guilders (200l.) yet it is a ſaying among the Italians, that Vienna is the hoſpital of the virtuoſe in ſingers, and that they never go there till they are worn out.

The players alſo are in the pay of the court; money is taken at the doors, and whatever the receipts are, if they exceed the expences, the ballance is divided among them according to their talents. The higheſt ſalary is about 180l. Engliſh, per year, and the loweſt, 40l. The whole expences amount to about 8000l. a year, and the receipts to 12,000l. The author of a new piece is (beſides a premium) entitled to a third part of what his work produces, and he may ſell the copy. The cabals and intrigues, however, of the players, a foreigner can have no conception of. Every new part makes a new quarrel, in which the [115] courtiers take part, and the public ſuffers accord⯑ingly. The public indeed, at Vienna, have a very bad taſte. Every thing here cries out panem & cir⯑cenſes, and the multitude ſeem to have here no other wiſhes than to fill their paunches, and have a thea⯑trical entertainment by way of deſert. Beſides the national theatre, ſix or ſeven ſtrolling companies oc⯑cupy the ſuburbs; theſe are ſuch as Suabia is ac⯑cuſtomed to; the actors conſiſt of taylors, barbers, apprentices and ruined ſtudents, who are ſometimes on the ſtage, ſometimes in the hoſpital, and ſome⯑times in the army. Theſe gentlemen play by a half light, favourable to intrigue. Of theſe, they ſucceed beſt who have their booths in a garden, where a man may walk with his friend between the acts. They are conſcious that the public does not come to ſee the play, that half the company is commonly at the ale⯑houſe, whilſt the piece is going on, and one man acts three or four parts.

One of the moſt pleaſing ſights is the company of the lemonade booths in the ſummer evenings. They erect a large tent in ſome of the public parts of the town, and round it are ſeveral hundred ſtools occu⯑pied by the ladies and gentlemen of the place. At ſome diſtance there is a band of muſic; the wonder⯑ful muſic, the feſtive dance, the ſilence and the fami⯑liarity which night diffuſes over every thing, have all of them an unſpeakable good effect.

[116]To ſee the equipages of Vienna, you muſt go to a fire⯑work, on the Prater, in the ſummer time. This Pra⯑ter is a wood of oaks and beaches on an iſland of the Danube, near the city. Towards the entrance, un⯑der the trees, there are about 30 tents, furniſhed with chairs and tables, in which you meet with all kind of refreſhments. This place is conſtantly reſorted to by day, but, to ſee it in its ſplendor, you muſt go to a fire-work: at this time about 12,000 people aſſemble and take their ſupper under the trees. Towards the beginning of the night, on a ſignal given, they flock to the meadow, ſurrounded with high trees, in which the ſpectacle is exhibited. Directly oppoſite to the firework is a magnificent amphitheatre filled with ſe⯑veral hundred ladies, whoſe high painted cheeks, rich jewels, and light ſummer-cloths, have a delightful effect. The pit, between the amphitheatre and the fire-work, is filled with men, as full as it can hold. At the concluſion of the feſtival a moſt extraordinary ſight takes place, a row of from 12 to 1400 coaches, phaetons, and other four-wheeled carriages, goes from the wood to the city, in ſo direct and cloſe a line, that when they ſtop, the ham of the hinder carriages are cloſe upon the cheſt of the fore, ones, the conſequence of which is, that, as they go in full trot or gallop, many of the carriages are liable to be broken, and the people in them expoſed to the utmoſt danger; moſt of theſe are gentlemen's coaches, with four or ſix horſes; the number of them at Vienna is at leaſt [117] 3,500; there are about 500 hackney coaches, and about 300 job coaches. Notwithſtanding the num⯑ber of equipages on this occaſion, there is hardly ever the leaſt diſorder, the foot paſſengers have their road, which no coachman dares break in upon; the bridge between the ſuburb of Leopold and the Prater, in which the preſſure is the ſtrongeſt, is divided into four parts; the two outermoſt of them are for the foot paſſengers, and the innermoſt for the coaches, that is, one for thoſe going, and another for thoſe coming. This order is kept up through the wood and on the Chauſeé in the ſuburb, till you come to the city, and ſome cuiraſſiers ride to and fro with drawn ſabres, to ſee that the order is obſerved. There is no inſtance of an accident having happened at the time of a feſtivity; all the caſualties that take place through the neglect of coachmen, happen in the daily buſineſs of the city.

As to the firework itſelf, I ſet it, ſays Reiſbec, far above all the amuſements of the place, not excepting the national theatre itſelf. M. Stuwer, who was the artificer when the Baron was there, underſtood it tho⯑roughly, he exhibits whole gardens, large palaces, and temples, in due perſpective, with all their diffe⯑rent ſhades and colours, and almoſt as large as nature. His machines are particularly large and beautiful, and often make from ſix to eight fronts, from fifty to ſixty feet long. At the opening of the exhibition they let [118] off ſeveral hundred rockets, which fly up with a noiſe like thunder, ſhake the whole foreſt, and make it light as at noon day.

The Augarten is likewiſe one of their ſummer amuſe⯑ments, at which you may meet with all the great world. This is a large park in the ſame iſland of the Danube in which the Prater is. It is a park of the late emperor's, who, as an inſcription on the door ſtates, firſt opened it, as a friend to mankind, for a place of relaxation to all ranks; it is however viſited only by the higher orders; thoſe who ſee it is not made for them voluntarily exclude themſelves. It is a true Engliſh garden, and the Danube waſhing its banks gives life to the whole. But the moſt pleaſing perſpective is that of a large foreſt in view at a diſ⯑tance, which has been cut through on the other ſide of the river, and is bounded by the remote hills of Moravia, which flit about it like light clouds. There is a magnificent pavilion, in which is a billiard table, and refreſhments of all kinds. Here all ranks, parti⯑cularly the nobleſſe and literati, mix together. Spa waters are brought from Spa, Pyrmont, &c. The la⯑dies drink, that they may ſhew themſelves in negligeés, and the men drink, becauſe the ladies are not ſo ſtiff in negligeés, as when they are full dreſſed.

There are ſeveral other places of public reſort in this city. That which is moſt generally viſited is the ram⯑part, [119] which, though expoſed to a very warm ſun, is almoſt always full. The middling people cannot go to church in the afternoon without taking a turn round the ramparts, which takes them up an hour; thoſe of higher ranks walk out to ſhew their dogs, which, in this place only, are ſafe from horſes and carriages. Hounds are a great article of luxury here; the great endeavour to outvie each other in them; at preſent the little Pomeranian breed is all the mode, one either ſnow white, or coal black, with a ſharp ſnout, will fetch from 10 to 15 ducats: Prince Chriſtian gave 25 ducats for one. Every man who aims at all for ton, muſt have his Spiſſchen, that is, his dog. The peaſants who profit by this folly, have built a dog mar⯑ket, adjoining to the poultry market.

They have alſo their winter amuſements, as I ſhall mention preſently. A perſon of quality and fortune, who is fond of cards, may here gratify ſuch a diſpoſi⯑tion as far as he pleaſes, and be aſſured of being well received in all aſſemblies. The uſual queſtions, parti⯑cularly of the ladies, with regard to a ſtranger, intro⯑duced by any of their acquaintance into an aſſembly, turn upon theſe three capital points, viz. 1. Whe⯑ther he be of old nobility? 2. Whether he be rich? and 3. Whether he be fond of play? If theſe three queſtions are anſwered in the affirmative, no further enquiry is to be apprehended. Sometimes if a ſtran⯑ger gambles deep, that qualification makes up any [120] deficiency in birth or fortune: this vice being as pernicious in Germany as in any part of England. Vienna ſwarms with what they call new nobility, i. e. perſons who have acquired fortunes by trade, and then aſſume what titles they pleaſe. It alſo ſwarms with literati; when a man accoſts you, ſays Reiſbec, whom you do not know, by his dirty hands, to be a painter, a ſmith, or a ſhoe-maker; or, by his livery, to be a footman; or, by his fine clothes, to be a man of conſequence; be aſſured he is either a man of let⯑ters, or a taylor, for between theſe two claſſes I have not learned to diſtinguiſh. Indeed the title of a man of letters is now ſo much deſpiſed at Vienna, that ſuch of high rank as cultivate knowledge for them⯑ſelves, or employ their talents in the ſervice of their country would be aſhamed of it. The principal men of merit here are foreigners: Stork is a Suabian; Denis, the great Auſtrian poet, a Bavarian, and Hill, the mathematician, a Sileſian. Many of the higher poſts of the ſtate are filled by natives; the Emperor's confidential ſecretaries are foreigners: nay, what is more, all the new enterpriſes have been alſo ſet on foot by foreigners, who have been poorly rewarded. The inventor of the penny poſt was obliged to run away for debt: a French officer who was called in to improve the artillery was driven away by ingratitude, and an Engliſhman, who taught the art of gelding horſes ſafely, being paid only by fair promiſes, ſhot himſelf.

[121]Muſic is the only thing for which the nobility ſhew a taſte; ſeveral of them have private bands of muſi⯑cians, and all the public concerts atteſt that this fineſt of arts is here in the greateſt eſteem. You may bring together four or five large orcheſtras, which are all incomparable. The number of private virtuoſi is ſmall, but there is no finer orcheſtras of muſic in the world. I have heard, ſays Baron Reiſbec, thirty or forty inſtruments play together, all which gave ſo juſt, ſo clear, and ſo preciſe a ſound, as to ſeem but that of a ſingle, very ſtrong inſtrument; a ſingle draw of the bow gave life to all the violins, and a ſingle blaſt to all the wind inſtruments. An Engliſhman, by whom I chance to ſit, continues the Baron, was aſto⯑niſhed not to hear, in a whole opera, I will not ſay, a ſingle difference, but a haſty ſtroke, too long a pauſe, or too loud a blaſt; though juſt come from Italy, he was enraptured with the juſtneſs and the clearneſs of the harmony. There are about 400 muſicians here, who divide themſelves into particular ſocieties, and often labour together during a long courſe of years. On a particular day of the year they have a general concert for the benefit of muſicians widows, and I have been aſſured, that the 400 play together as diſtinctly, as clearly, and as juſtly, as when there are only twenty or thirty.

The Kalteburgh, which lies on the Danube, about three miles from the city, is a delightful place of re⯑ſort: [122] the way to it is through a wonderfully well culti⯑vated country. At ſome diſtance to the left, on the ſlope of a hill, and under ſome very old oaks, is Field-marſhal Lacy's elegant villa, with his Engliſh garden. By degrees you gain a thick foreſt on the brow of the hill; at the top of this ſtands the Camal⯑deuleuſe convent in the fineſt point of view you can imagine. Under ſome trees before the convent, are a table and ſome benches, where the ladies, who can⯑not viſit the inſide of the monaſtery, without ſpecial leave of the Archbiſhop, are entertained till their friends return. Each monk has his own ſeparate hut, with a little garden belonging to it. To the outer cells there is a terrace, which looks over a perpendi⯑cular precipice into the Danube, and commands a proſpect of which a monk of this ſort is quite unwor⯑thy. You have the whole city of Vienna like a ground-plot under your feet; you think you hear the conſtant hum in it, and your eye carries you over this part of Auſtria, as far as to the borders of Hungary and Moravia. The majeſtic Danube winds its way thro' an immenſe plain; at ſome diſtance it conſiderably widens, and, not being varied with woods and ele⯑vations, caſts a ſilver appearance on the landſcape to the right: the wood-crowned hill you are upon gradually decreaſes to the ſuburbs, whilſt, to the left, it ſtretches its high neck along the Danube; where at three miles diſtance, we ſee the golden hill of Enſerdorf, which produces one of the beſt Auſtrian [123] wines. The numberleſs fine valleys, the blue hills ſwimming on the horizon, and all the various aſpects of wood and water, diffuſe a delight which impreſſed me to ſuch a degree, that I could not help exclaim⯑ing with enthuſiaſm to the monk who was near me, ‘Happy muſt be that brother, who inhabits the outer cell!’ "No," returned he, ‘we are not of your opinion; none of us chuſe to live in it; it is too much expoſed to the winds, and is as cold again as any other.’ In a moment the man brought me out of my enthuſiaſm, and convinced me, I am one of thoſe who, in ſummer, never think of winter, and who hate nothing more than to be forced to ſee the ugly ſide of things, be they as natural as they may, whilſt I am taken up with the beautiful ones.

Dr. Moore tells us, that he, with the Duke of Hamilton, went up to this convent in a party to din⯑ner; when they got to the foot of the hill or moun⯑tain, as the common carriages could not be drawn up, they found chaiſes of a particular conſtruction calculated for ſuch expeditions; theſe had been or⯑dered by the ambaſſador for the accommodation of the company. The table for dinner was covered in a field near the convent, under the ſhade of ſome trees. Every delicacy of the ſeaſon was ſerved up; a very beautiful and ſprightly lady did the honours, ſome of the fineſt women of Vienna, her companions, [124] were of the party; ſo the whole entertainment was conducted with equal taſte and gaiety.

During the deſert, ſome of the fathers came and preſented the company with baſkets of fruit and ſal⯑lad from their garden. The ambaſſador invited them to ſit, and the ladies pledged them in Tokay. A permiſſion had been obtained for the ladies to enter the convent; and they did, with the company, as ſoon as dinner was over.

You would readily believe that the appearance of ſo many handſome women would be particularly in⯑tereſting to a community which had never before be⯑held a female within their walls. This was ſufficiently evident in ſpite of the gravity and mortified looks of the fathers.

One lady, of a gay diſpoſition, laid hold of a little ſcourge, which hung at one of the father's belts, and deſired he would make her a preſent of it, for ſhe wiſhed to uſe it when ſhe returned home; having, as ſhe ſaid, been a great ſinner; the father, with great gallantry, begged ſhe would ſpare her own fair ſkin, aſſuring her that he would give himſelf a hearty flog⯑ging, on her account, that very evening; and, to prove how much he was in earneſt, fell directly on his knees, and began to whip his own ſhoulders with great earneſtneſs, declaring that when the ladies [125] ſhould retire he would lay it, with the ſame violence, on his naked body; for he was determined ſhe ſhould be as free from ſin, as ſhe was on the day of her birth.

This melted the lady's heart; ſhe begged the fa⯑ther might take no more of her faults upon his ſhoul⯑ders; the lady aſſured him that her ſlips had been very venial, and that ſhe was convinced what he had done already, would clear her as completely as if he ſhould whip himſelf to the bone.

There is ſomething, ſays Dr. Moore, ſo ludicrous in all this, that you may naturally ſuſpect the repre⯑ſentations here given to proceed from inventions, ra⯑ther than memory. I aſſure you, however, continues he, in downright earneſt, that the ſcene paſſed as nearly as deſcribed; and, to prevent the miſchief, I put the ſcourge, which the zealous father had made uſe of, into my pocket.

On my return to Vienna, I called at the counteſs of Walſtein's, where the late emperor, Joſeph II. was on a viſit. Some one had mentioned to him the pious gallantry of the father. He aſked for a ſight of the whip, which he was told I had brought away; I had it in my pocket, and immediately ſhewed it to him. He laughed very heartily at the warmth of the father's zeal, which he ſuppoſed had been augmented by the ambaſſador's tokay.

[126]The firſt claſs of people not only live luxuriouſly, but are much addicted to feaſting and carouſing, dancing and fencing, which are their ordinary recre⯑ations within doors: but in the winter, when the ſe⯑veral branches of the Danube are frozen over, and the ground covered with ſnow, the ladies take their recreation in ſledges of different ſhapes, ſuch as grif⯑fins, tigers, ſwans, eagles, ſcollop ſhells, &c. a re⯑preſentation of one of the moſt elegant of which we have preſented to our readers. (See the plate.)

Here the lady ſits dreſſed in velvet lined with rich furs and adorned with laces and jewels, having on her head a velvet cap; and the ſledge is drawn by one horſe, ſet off with plumes of feathers, ribbons and bells: and as this diverſion is chiefly taken in the night-time, footmen ride before the ſledge with torches, and a gentleman ſitting on the ſledge be⯑hind, guides the horſe. The winters are much ſe⯑verer at Vienna than at London; though the latitude at London is between three and four degrees further north, but then the weather is more conſtant and ſe⯑vere there; and they clothe themſelves ſo well with furs and warm caps in the day-time, and cover them⯑ſelves with feather-beds at night, that they are not very ſenſible of the difference, eſpecially as every one, male and female, drink ſome ſtrong waters to pre⯑ſerve an internal warmth and circulate the fluids in the animal ſyſtem.

[127]At the carnival, which begins the new year, all ſorts of diverſions are carried to the greateſt height, except that of maſquing, which is never permitted during a war with the Turks, or any of the ſurround⯑ing nations.

The balls are at public places, where the gentle⯑men pay a gold ducat at entrance, but the ladies no⯑thing; where it is not uncommon to have an aſſem⯑blage of 1000 gentlemen, and as many ladies. The rooms are well decorated, and the muſic good; but the din of hunting-horns would be ſufficient to deafen any one beſides the people of Vienna, who never have a concert without them. The ball always con⯑cludes with Engliſh country dances; which, for the moſt part, are ſo ill danced, that there is little plea⯑ſure in ſeeing them, and much leſs to be of the party.

The manners of the court of Vienna are conſider⯑ably altered ſince Lady Mary Wortley Montague was there; particularly, ſince the acceſſion of the Empreſs, the people of different ranks now do buſineſs together with eaſe, and meet at public places without any of thoſe ridiculous diſputes about precedency, of which Lady Mary has given ſuch lively deſcriptions. Yet trifling punctilios are not ſo completely baniſhed as could be wiſhed; for there is certainly ſtill a greater ſeparation than good ſenſe could direct, between the various claſſes of the ſubjects.

[128]The higher, or ancient families, keep themſelves as diſtinct from the inferior, or newly created nobility, as thoſe do from the citizens; ſo that it is very diffi⯑cult for the inferior claſſes to be in ſociety, or to have their families much connected with thoſe of ſuperior rank. There is a law in force that obliges the offices of ſtate to be in the hands of the higher order of people, whether they have abilities for the office or not. As for the peaſantry, they are, in many parts of the Emperor's dominions, in a ſtate of perfect ſlavery, and almoſt totally dependent on the pro⯑prietors of the land.

The ideas, reſpecting dreſs, ſeem to have entirely changed ſince Lady Mary's time; and if the dreſs of the ladies be ſtill as abſurd, it is at leaſt not ſo ſingu⯑lar; for they, like the reſt of Europe, have now adopt⯑ed the Pariſian modes; and if the ladies were ugly 70 years ago, they are not ſo now, and of courſe gallantry may be more general.

It is not uncommon for married ladies here to avow the greateſt degree of friendſhip and attachment to men who are not their huſbands, and to live with them in great intimacy, without hurting their repu⯑tation, or being ſuſpected even by their own ſex of having deviated from the laws of modeſty.

[129]One evening, ſays Moore, at Count Thune's, when there was a pretty numerous company, I obſerved one lady uncommonly ſad, and enquired of her intimate friend, who happened to be there alſo, if ſhe knew the cauſe of this ſadneſs? I do, replied ſhe, Mr. De—, whom ſhe loves very tenderly, ought to have been here a month ago, and laſt night ſhe received a letter from him, informing her that he cannot be at Vienna for a month to come. But pray, ſaid I, does your friend's huſband know of this violent paſſion ſhe has for Mr. De—? Yes, yes, anſwered ſhe, he knows it and enters, with the moſt tender ſympathy, into her afflictions; he does all that can be expected from an affectionate huſband to comfort and ſoothe his wife, aſſuring her, that her love will wear off with time. But ſhe always declares that ſhe has no hopes of this, feeling an increaſe of it daily. Mais, au ſond, continues the lady, cela lui fait bien de regret, parceque malheureuſe⯑ment il aime ſa femme à la folie. Et ſa femme qui eſt la meilleure créature du monde, plaint infiniment ſon pauvre mari; car elle a beaucoup d'amitié et d'eſtime pour lui; mais elle ne ſçauroit ſe défaire de cette malheureuſe paſſion pour Monſieur De—?

Its univerſity is very famous throughout Germany and Hungary; the number of ſtudents is conſiderable, and they have good accommodations for thoſe of for⯑tune, and many valuable privileges.

[130]This city, like moſt others in Roman-catholic countries, is over-run with lazy, indolent prieſts, who do nothing to gain their livelihood, but are main⯑tained by the induſtry of every body elſe. It is amazing, that Roman-catholic princes do not find out that every monk in their dominions might be a ſol⯑dier, without the country ſuffering any thing the more; and, in many caſes, the ſoldier would pay well for his maintenance; but, as to the monk, he is ſupported in the moſt unuſeful of all ſpecies of idleneſs.

The late Emperor, Joſeph II. was truly ſenſible of this; and, with a great deal of wiſdom and polity, put an end to the monkeries: he aboliſhed the con⯑vents, and obliged the inhabitants to find out ſome other mode of living; and it was truly laughable to ſee the effect of this event.

Thoſe drones of ſociety were removed from their neſts by the edict of this wiſe monarch, and ſtript of their ſacerdotal habits, which were replaced by the leſs diſtinguiſhed ones of laymen. Nor were the ſe⯑cluded nuns free from the general alarm; but were obliged to reſume the cloathing of uſeful females.

But there are other inſtances of the catholic piety of Vienna, beſides her monks and her nuns; in one of the ſquares is a very large and coſtly ſtatue of the Tri⯑nity, repreſenting the Deity claſping Chriſt in his arms; and the Holy Ghoſt hovering over them. To this famous piece of folly all the Roman-catholics bow as they paſs.

Religious prejudices ſhould certainly be laid aſide by travellers; but is it poſſible for a man of ſenſe not to rejoice that education has not enſlaved him to an obſervance of, or veneration for ſuch mummery? In many inſtances religion makes Roman-catholic coun⯑tries very diſagreeable.

[132]There is a haughty reſerve in the citizens of Vi⯑enna, ſo that it is impoſſible to get an intelligent per⯑ſon to acquaint the moſt polite ſtranger with any par⯑ticulars relative to agriculture, manufactures, com⯑merce, revenue or military power: for, in the faſhion⯑able circles, none of theſe inſtructive leſſons are re⯑garded; vice and folly taking the lead of all whole⯑ſome conſiderations.

The great attention at Vienna is the army; this is ſo far reprehenſible in politics, as it increaſes the ne⯑ceſſity of laying a foundation previous to every ſuper⯑ſtructure: it is the revenue that ſupports and pays the army; and all the increaſe of the latter, muſt depend on a foregoing increaſe of the former: to raiſe a great revenue is much more eſſential than to raiſe a great army; but the ſoldiers have a peculiar faculty of ſwallowing up a revenue, they have none at cre⯑ating it. That prince, therefore, who would be truly formidable, ſhould attend to the proſpects of his in⯑come before he thinks of greatly increaſing his troops.

The police of this place is intirely taken up with the object of ſuppreſſing every thing that indicates vigour and manly ſtrength, as will be ſeen; that, however, is not the beſt police, whoſe object is to make every member of ſociety as ſecure as poſſible; but that which knows how to give the greateſt ſecu⯑rity to the whole, and, at the ſame time, encroaches as little as poſſible upon the freedom of individuals.

[133]It is certain, that by ſetting watches about every citizen's houſe, to take an account of what is going forward at his table and in his bed, and to follow the ſeveral members of his family wherever they go, is to guard effectually againſt diſorder; but who is there exiſting on earth that loves the order kept up againſt galley-ſlaves exerciſed upon themſelves?

The wiſe Creator, whoſe government ought to be the model of every prudent legiſlature, left us that free will which we ſo often abuſe. He gave us ſtrong incitements to good, without taking away the power of doing evil. In this liberty, notwithſtanding the miſchiefs which ariſe from it, conſiſts the true great⯑neſs of man. Religion teaches us that, in his own good time, God will puniſh the wicked and reward the good. Without the freedom to do ill, we ſhould have neither moral feelings nor moral happineſs.

We cannot follow a better method of legiſlation and police, than what is ſet us by the Creator. As it is the buſineſs of legiſlation to puniſh the wicked without partiality, and reward the good with a liberal hand; ſo the police, which is ſubordinate to it, ought to have no other object, than to give it the means of rewarding virtue and puniſhing vice. To go farther than this, and endeavour to make moral evil phyſically im⯑poſſible, is ſubverting the order of nature. Human juſtice knows of no evils but thoſe which ſpring from [134] offences, and are hurtful to ſociety; for the tribunal of juſtice muſt not imperiouſly extend to the internal morals of man, but to his outward actions only.

Probably Vienna is the only city in the world, which has a court called a ſpecial Commiſſion of Chaſ⯑tity. A few years ago, the ſpies of this extraordinary tribunal uſed to follow the young people into their houſes, and even break open their bed-chambers, and viſit their beds in the middle of the night. The horror which this raiſed in ſociety was ſo univerſal, that the Emperor was conſtrained to remove the evil by limit⯑ing this abuſed power. Now it is ſafe to walk in pub⯑lic, yet ſpies are numerous, under pretext to guard againſt the exceſſes or indulgences of youth.

It is the opinion here, that the beſt way to prevent criminal intercourſe, and infant-murder, is to compel the man who has a child ſworn to him to marry the woman immediately. This is done with a view, alſo, of increaſing population. The following curious fact will ſerve as an example. A young man was ſum⯑moned before the conſiſtory to make anſwer to a young woman, who claimed him for a huſband. As he was in the outward chamber waiting for her, he ſaw another poor young woman who was come there on the like errand. Having made himſelf acquainted with all the circumſtances of her caſe, and finding that the ſuppoſed father of her child was fled, he of⯑fered [135] her a good ſum if ſhe would take him in his ſtead, and date her complaint prior to the time of that which he expected to be brought againſt him. She agreed to his propoſal, and he went to the judges full of confidence in the ſucceſs of his project. The court put the uſual queſtion, whether he had criminal inter⯑courſe with the female before the bar? He confeſſed he had; upon which he was told to give his hand to the woman. To this he replied, he had no objection, but that there was a perſon in the anti-chamber, who had prior claims upon him. Upon her being called, it appeared viſibly ſhe was farther gone than the other. The firſt plaintiff was reſtrained, and ſatisfied with a little money. After ſhe was gone, the judges deſired he would give his hand to the other, whereupon he pleaded the artifice, but having no witneſſes to pro⯑duce in evidence, he was compelled to give his hand to a woman he had not known above half an hour.

Theſe marriages by compulſion are attended with very pernicious conſequences both to ſociety and the ſtate. And if it prevents the evil complained of, it is equally certain it muſt increaſe adultery. Truth, con⯑fidence and love, the moſt holy and uſeful bands of ſociety, they entirely diſſolve. The man who from the circumſtance of his having been compelled to marry, conſiders his wife as a proſtitute, conſequently cannot ſo reſpect her, as to make the yoke of matrimony ſit light and eaſy. It is indeed aſtoniſhing how indiffer⯑ent [136] the married people of this place are to each other. In Paris their indifference ariſes from the national manners, but here from neceſſity, and by the force of compulſory laws. It is no doubt owing to this want of the affections of ſocial and domeſtic life, ſays Reiſ⯑bec, that the people have here ſo few moral feelings.

It is always allowed, every thing has its good as well as weak ſide. From this analogy we may de⯑duce, that the people here, want ſpirit; conſequently their vices are few, and as weak as their virtues. Nothing of the tragedies of London, Paris or Naples, is ſeen here. For the choler of two ſtout men extends only to menace and grinning: blows being ſcarce⯑ly ever made uſe of to decide the conteſt; leſt any of the ſix hundred ſpies which creep round the me⯑tropolis ſhould, ſans ceremonie, put the combatants in⯑to ſafe ward. Thus the frays at Vienna, like thoſe of Billingſgate, in London, all vaniſh into air.

We ſeldom hear of any extraordinary inſtances of impropriety and indecency in this place. Conſider⯑ing the ſtate of the country, it is not extraordinary that a taſte for pleaſure ſhould be ſo prevalent as it is. it having certainly more food here than any where elſe. The number of poor is much ſmaller than at Paris, and probably than at London. Every thing, even the cloathing of the loweſt ſervants, beſpeaks a degree of affluence. The prodigality of the higher [137] nobility, the many and great appointments paid by the court, and the extenſive commerce of the mid⯑ling claſſes, greatly aſſiſts the circulation of money. The expence of living here is likewiſe leſs than it is any where elſe, and Vienna is probably the only town in which the price of the neceſſaries of life is not equal to the quantity of gold in circulation. This ariſes from the great want of money in the neigh⯑bouring Hungary. You have good wine here for three kreutzers, or three farthings Engliſh, the bottle, and a very good dinner for 3d. I knew a traiteur, ſays Reiſbec, who for 13 ſols a head, furniſhed a table d'hote, conſiſting of vegetables, broiled meat, a pud⯑ding, roaſted calf's liver, and beef fried, and a gill of wine included. In a word, a man of ſmall fortune may live here very well, but if he has a great one, he will be certainly tempted to ſpend it. The more nature gives, the more neceſſities men create to themſelves, and ſhe is ſo profuſe here, that they of courſe become ſo too. The infinite number of richly penſioned dependents of the court, the numerous no⯑bility, and the many ſtrangers who come here, mere⯑ly for amuſement, know no other pleaſure than to fol⯑low it, whereſoever it leads, riches, idleneſs, and the liberality of nature muſt render a people diſſipated, where religion is the oppoſite to frugality, and whoſe governors cannot give their ſpirits any other occu⯑pation.

[138]The individuals of a country which exiſts only by ſubordination, will, of courſe, be weak and feeble cha⯑racters. Though no nation has ſo much checked the power of their kings at different periods as the Engliſh: yet hiſtory affords no greater inſtances of the devotion of individuals to the ſovereign. The ſame love which the Engliſhman has for liberty, extends to the per⯑ſon of the prince, as long as the ſovereign leaves the conſtitution unmoleſted, and manifeſts a love for his people. So that a Briton will preſerve ſtrength of character, as long as his conſtitution laſts.

The government of this place endeavours to make ſome amends for the univerſal ſubjection under which theſe people are held by a moſt exact adminiſtration of juſtice, by taking meaſures for univerſal ſecurity, and by the free admiſſion and encouragement of every pleaſure (the ſingle one of lawleſs love alone except⯑ed) that can delight the human mind. The police is ſo vigilant and acute, that the moſt ſubtle thefts are commonly diſcovered, and the owner gets his goods again. The Imperial houſes and gardens are almoſt conſtantly open to the public. The players are un⯑der the peculiar protection of a court, who ſhews, in every thing, that the reſtraint it lays the people under, ariſes more from principle than the deſire of tyran⯑nizing over them.

[139]Yet, notwithſtanding all this pleaſure, and all this ſecurity, I had rather, ſays Reiſbec, be expoſed to a London footpad, or have the bottles and glaſſes whiſtle round my head on the laſt night of Vauxhall, than enjoy all the placid tranquillity of this place. Theſe laſt are diſorders indeed, but they are diſorders which are inſeparable from a ſtrong national character, ſuch as is the people by whom they are committed.

The late Emperor Joſeph II. was of an affable diſpo⯑ſition, and in fact the ſitting magiſtrate of Vienna. He heard the complaints of all ranks of people; for the meaneſt of his ſubjects had free acceſs to him. His diſpenſations in juſticiary matters were truly ex⯑cellent, and well worth the attention of princes, whoſe deſire is to adminiſter equity and juſtice to their ſubjects.

The following anecdote of him is well known: a poor family, the father of which had worn out his better days as a ſoldier, in the ſervice of the ſtate, and was entitled to ſome claim for thoſe ſervices, not having ſufficient intereſt to procure them, was pining out the remainder of his life in want and diſtreſs. He at laſt thought of petitioning the Emperor, and ſent one of his daughters with the petition. The Emperor was ſo ſtruck with the appearance of the girl, and ſo won by her modeſt deportment, that he not only ſigned the paper, ordering the claims to be made good, but [140] added Let a penſion of 600 livres be annually paid him. (See the plate.)

The hand of juſtice in all chriſtian ſtates ſhould be tempered by the ſoft feelings of mercy, and the wretch, who, violating the laws deſerves puniſhment, ſhould be meliorated by the remiſſion of every ſpecies of torture. A noble fundamental principle of Britiſh laws! In Vienna, the way of executing criminals is commonly done by cutting off their heads; though in caſes of high treaſon, they firſt cut off the right hand: the executioner generally ſtrikes off the head with one blow.

In the city of Vienna, as I have obſerved, ſwarms of literary characters are to be found. Some of whom are above and ſome below mediocrity. It would be invidious in me to point out their defects, and weak to ſpeak in their praiſe; ſuffice it therefore to ſay, that there are ſome of all denominations. Were we to point out the literary ſocieties, and mark out all the rules and regulations of this great mart for litera⯑ture, it would ſwell this article to the ſize of a vo⯑lume, without adding to the entertainment of our readers; we ſhall diſmiſs therefore the ſubject with only obſerving, that a habit of writing is generally adopted by the ſtudents of Vienna; of courſe, it muſt naturally be ſuppoſed that ſome of them are not very bright geniuſes.

[141]The flowery diction of a Geſner, a Wieland, or a Lavater, muſt ever be regarded by men of letters as the effuſion of a daring imagination cloathed in the diction of politeneſs and elegance, as well as ſublimity and flowing periods.

The German ladies are not wanting in this article; for very neat productions have been uſhered into the world, from ſome of thoſe ſtudious females at the capital.

The taſte for dramatic writing is now revived, and the rational amuſement of the ſtage ſeems now to be in a fair way to be retrieved from its long neglected ſtate. The late emperor began it, and the preſent one ſeems to have fixed a reſolution of raiſing it to the higheſt pitch of excellence. It is carried on, and the performers ſalaries paid at the Emperor's expence, as has been before obſerved.

The city of Baden is ſituate about 18 miles ſouth of Vienna. It is a neat well built town, and a place of public reſort in the ſummer, on account of its hot baths. The German phyſicians preſcribe its waters, (and iſſuing from rocks of ſalt, allum, and brimſtone, they taſte ſtrangely of theſe minerals) as ſalutary for valetudinarians; and particularly beneficial in all diſ⯑orders of the head, ſuch as head-aches, dimneſs of ſight, deafneſs, &c. They are uſed by internal and [142] external applications. Modern practice of the facul⯑ty recommends this water as an antidote againſt the gout; as well as for the dropſy and other chronical diſtempers.

There is nothing to attract the traveller's attention in this city, except the ſalubrity of the climate, and the faſhionable reſort of the higher ranks of the citizens of Vienna. The uſual taſte for diſſipation and genteel vices are not wanting here. For there are no ſpies of chaſtity, nor yoke of moral conduct, as at the capital, ſo that all ranks indulge in thoſe pleaſures that are moſt ſuitable to their inclinations.

Baden wants none of the requiſites that conſtitute a place of luxurious enjoyments, added to the great good qualities of its ſprings.

The dukedom of Stitia, and the earldom of Cilley, have Gratz and Cilley as the principal cities. The former ſituated on the banks of the river Muer, and the latter on the banks of the river Drave. There are no vineyards in this part of the country, but the na⯑tive ſupplies are plentiful in every other article of life. It is very remarkable that in this country, the natives are frequently troubled with a ſtruma, or ſwelling on their throats or chins, to a monſtrous degree. This epidemical diſtemper is ſuppoſed to proceed from the ſnow-water they drink, which falls from the moun⯑tains; [143] but the nobility and better ſort of people, who drink wine and other ſtrong liquors, are ſeldom troubled with it.

Gratz is a well built town, its ſtreets are ſpacious and well laid out, the caſtle ſtands on a high hill, and has the conveniency of a well that has a communica⯑tion with the Muer, for the convenience of water carriage to Hungary. It has a good armory and alſo ſpacious magazines. In the Jeſuits library here is ſhewn a manuſcript tranſlation of the Bible, at the concluſion of which is a memoir, ſignifying that it was written and finiſhed by Eraſmus Stratter, at Saltz⯑burg, before the Ember week in autumn, 1469. In this manuſcript, the ſo much diſputed text in the 5th chapter of the 1ſt Epiſtle of St. John, v. 7. con⯑cerning the three witneſſes in heaven is to be found, but the ſixth verſe runs thus, And the ſpirit is that which witneſſeth that Chriſt is the truth. The text in a printed Bible, to be ſeen there, is expreſſed in the ſame manner. The reaſon why this text is not to be found in ſo many manuſcripts is well known, but all the craft of the enemies of our holy faith has but little weight, as the connexion not only neceſſarily requires the ſentence in diſpute, but Tertullian, ſo early as the ſecond, and St. Cyprian, in the third century, ex⯑preſsly appeal to this paſſage. At the Dominican con⯑vent, which lies between the church and the area before the palace, is a piece of painting repreſenting Catharine, [144] of Sienna, exchanging her heart for that of Chriſt. Not far from it is the portrait of St. Alan, a Domini⯑can monk, who was a native of England. An in⯑ſcription beneath, according to Keyſler, ſays, that the Virgin Mary was ſo pleaſed with the love he bore her, that in the preſence of the Son of God, an infinite multitude of angels and bleſſed ſpirits, ſhe was eſpouſed to St. Alan, gave him with her virgin mouth a kiſs of everlaſting peace, refreſhed him with the milk of her chaſte breaſts, and preſented him with a ring in token of the marriage. This pretended ſtep-father and foſ⯑ter brother of our Lord, died in 1475. That the Virgin Mary ſhould expoſe her boſom in the preſence of many ſpectators, will not appear ſtrange to thoſe who from other legends have learned, that it is not uncommon for them to repreſent her as condeſcend⯑ing to ſuch familiarities with her favourite votaries, as not to be read without a bluſh. This devout Alan informs us, that the Virgin once paid a formal viſit to St. Dominic, the founder of his order, attended by three maids of honour, each of which had a retinue of 150 angels. He adds, that theſe three maids of ho⯑nour repreſented the three perſons in the bleſſed Tri⯑nity, by whom Dominic (who had fallen into a ſwoon at the radiancy of this celeſtial viſit) was raiſed and delivered into the hands of the Virgin Mary, who re⯑ceived him as her bridegroom, kiſſed and ſuckled him at her breaſt. Craſſus and Caeſarius give us an account of many more ſuch condeſcending weddings. Some [145] ſenſible Romaniſts however, not of this order, have openly expreſſed their abhorrence of ſuch impious fictions.

In the market-place at Gratz is a fine pillar of gilt braſs erected to the Trinity; the town is well fortified, and contains beſides a pariſh church, eight cloyſters with their churches, and about 30,000 inhabitants.

There are perſons in it who have incomes from 30 to 40,000 florins, and the luxury that prevails is not to be deſcribed; they have four regular meals, morn⯑ing, noon, evening, and night; ducks and chickens are the ordinary food of the common citizens. They made me almoſt ſick, ſays Reiſbec, with the ſight of their paſties, tarts, ragouts, &c. They talk of no⯑thing but the kitchen, and the cellar, the attention to cooking only excepted, and do not ſeem many degrees above Orang-outangs. This alſo is the great mart for all indecent and irreligious books; and hence they are ſent into other countries.

Two ſtages from Gratz, in the way to Vienna, on the right of Retelſtein, is a cave, out of which are continually dug ſeveral large bones called uni⯑cornu foſſile, not unlike thoſe of Canſtein. The en⯑trance is very large and the cave runs under a rock to the diſtance, 'tis ſaid, of two German miles, or eight Engliſh ones. It is conjectured that theſe bones [146] belonged to cattle or wild beaſts, who, at the time of the deluge, or ſome other extraordinary inundation, had ſheltered themſelves here. The vulgar call them dragons teeth, or giants bones, and imagine that be⯑fore the deluge, this cavern was the abode of ſavage women.

The Dukedom of Carinthia has St. Veit for its ca⯑pital, and is famous for its early reception of the chriſ⯑tian religion. The duchy of Carniola has Trieſte for its chief town. There is a curious lake in this duke⯑dom, 70 miles in length, and 35 in breadth, ſur⯑rounded by high mountains, that in the month of June, annually, retires under ground, and returns again in September, with great violence ſpouting up the water to a great heighth. But what is moſt ſingu⯑lar, during the abſence of the waters, the bottom of the lake is ſuddenly covered over with graſs, ſo that cattle graze there with ſafety.

The county of Tyrol has Inſpruc for its metropolis, which contains 14,000 inhabitants. And thoſe of Brixen and Trent, have towns of the ſame names. Theſe three ſtates are remarkable for their productions in foſſils, both in ſtones and gems.

The commerce of this country is now extremely flouriſhing, but it was a long time before the Auſtrians knew how to enjoy the advantage, which nature had [147] given them. Notwithſtanding they were maſters of one of the largeſt rivers in the world, which carries ſhips upwards of 70 German miles before it comes to them, and afterwards opens them a way into the Le⯑vant and Black ſea; there was no ſpirit of trade be⯑fore the time of Francis—. Trade was conſidered as below the attention of a gentleman; and though the emperor Francis was himſelf a merchant, and by de⯑grees the nobility began to look upon the induſtrious tradeſman with ſomewhat leſs degree of contempt; ſtill a great deal was reſerved for the late emperor, Joſeph II. whoſe popularity and averſion to old pre⯑judices, are in no inſtances more conſpicuous than in this. He introduced ingenious artiſts and merchants into the firſt ſocieties. It is true indeed, that thoſe who think all merit conſiſts in birth and external ap⯑pearance, neglect nothing to make the plebean feel he is out of his element; but a word from the mo⯑narch ſets all to rights, and the more the nobleſſe diſ⯑turbed themſelves, the more Joſeph was ſure to take opportunities of humbling their pride. Some years ago, when he was at Prague, he came into a large company, leading a citizen's wife by the hand: all the ladies immediately began to ſtare, but he took no farther notice of it, than by going down a dance with her, the only dance he danced.

With all this, however, trade is ſtill far below what it might be; but it makes great ſtrides every day. It [148] is ſaid there are already above a hundred ſilk-weavers looms in Vienna. There are alſo pluſh and cotton manufactures; and foreign trade is carried on with Auſtrian and Hungarian wines, Bohemian and Mo⯑ravian linens, (which go by Trieſte into Italy, Spain, Portugal, and Turkey) wrought iron, ſteel, and cop⯑per, leather, china, and other articles.—Theſe pro⯑duce many millions. All this the government pro⯑tects ſo heartily, that it has always a fund ready for the encouragement of the enterpriſing and diſcrete projector. This fund lends out money without inte⯑reſt, for five, ſix, or even ten years, after which it re⯑ceives intereſt gradually, from one to two or three per cent. From theſe beginners great advantages are, no doubt, to be expected in the next genera⯑tion, when inſtead of being proud of their debts, the nobility ſhall deign to be in company with a rich trader, and inſtead of reaſoning on a bill of fare, will converſe with him on the profits of the year.

CHAP. VIII. The Circle of Upper Saxony.

THIS circle terminates on that of Franconia, the Upper Rhine, and the circle of Lower Saxony, as alſo on the Baltic ſea; Pruſſia, Poland, Sileſia, Luſatia and Bohemia. Its whole extent being eſti⯑mated at 1950 ſquare geographical miles.

It contains as follows: Pomerania N. E. Branden⯑burg, and Middle hall ſubject to the king of Pruſſia; Pomerania N. W. ſubject to Sweden; Thuringia W. ſubject to the elector of Mentz: Saxe-Hall, ſubject to its biſhop; Anhalt N. ſubject to the prince of An⯑halt Deſſau; the duchies of Saxe Meinungen, Saxe Zeitz, Saxe Altenburg S. E. Saxe Weimar W. Saxa Gotha W. Saxe Eiſnach S. W. Saxe Saalfeldt, and Saxe Naumburg, ſubject to their own dukes; the counties of Schwartſburg W; Belchingen N; Mans⯑feldt N; Stolberg N. W; and Hohenſtein W. ſub⯑ject to their reſpective counts; all the reſt of the circle belongs to the elector of Saxony. Such parts as be⯑long to Pruſſia and Sweden, we have ſpoken ſuffi⯑ciently of already, when deſcribing thoſe kingdoms; the leſſer dukedoms, &c. we ſhall paſs over in ſilence, [150] as deſcribing the country and manners of Germany in general, is deſcribing of theſe; we ſhall dwell only on the electorate of Saxony.

The duchy of Saxony, which gives the Elector the title of Duke, is of no great extent, and bounded by the principality of Anhalt on the N. Luſatia and part of Brandenburg on the E. Miſnia on the S. and Mans⯑feldt and Thuringia on the W. But the electoral country contains 210 towns, 61 market-towns, 3157 villages, 1591 gentlemens eſtates, with villages an⯑nexed, 130 royal citadels, and 196 royal manners; in the whole 225 towns, and 5685 villages.

The air of this country is cold, but healthful. The ſoil yields wheat and ſome wine, though not in great plenty. There are ſeveral mines of ſilver, and other metals, but the want of fuel to work them with, pre⯑vents the Elector from riſing the ore.

Of this duchy, which alone contains 24 cities and towns, three boroughs, and 494 villages, Witten⯑burg is the chief city, but Dreſden is the metropolis of the electorate.

This electorate has had the honour of giving riſe to the reformation in the tenth century, and the Pro⯑teſtant Lutheran church is the prevailing ſect here. The Calviniſts, as well as the Roman-catholics, have, [151] at Dreſden and Leipſic the free exerciſe of their religion.

The ſciences flouriſh in this electorate, printing being at no place more common, and book-ſelling no where more conſiderable than at Leipſic. At Meiſſen, Pforte, and Grimma are princely, country ſchools, and good ſeminaries at other places.

The uſeful and fine manufactures and fabricks are very numerous in this electorate. Great quantities of yarn are ſpun here, thread bleached, coarſe and fine linen wove, and tick made, together with cere⯑cloth, fine lace, ribband, edging, and paper. The porcelain of Meiſſen is famous throughout all Eu⯑rope, and known alſo in other principal parts of the world, under the name of Dreſden china. Fine glaſſes and mirrors are made here, and out of the ſer⯑pent ſtone all manner of things. Iron is wrought here, alſo ſteel and braſs. Saxony has likewiſe its manufac⯑tures of gold and ſilver; cotton, wool, and ſilk are made up here in handkerchiefs, cloths, fuſtians, flannels, ſtuffs, pluſh, and ſtockings. It makes alſo gloves, caps, and hats. Here are beſides fine tapeſtries; and in theſe manufactured wares, as well as in the natural productions of the country, namely, in corn, flax, aniſe, woad, blue, ſtarch, arſenic, ſaffron, wine, &c. and in cattle, wool, and many other articles an import⯑ant foreign commerce is carried on. The tin [152] here is very exellent, and gems they have in great plenty.

The Elbe is the principle river in this country, and greatly promotes its trade. Leipſic is not only the greateſt trading town in this electorate, but one of the greateſt in all Germany.

The Elector of Saxony ſtiles himſelf, Duke of Sax⯑ony, Juliers, Cleve, and the Berg; alſo of Engers and Weſtphalia; archmarſhal and elector of the holy Roman empire, Landgrave in Thuringia, Margrave of Meiſſen and of Upper and Lower Luſatia, Burgrave of Magdeburg, princely count of Henneberg, count of the Mark, Ravenſberg, Barby, and Hanau, and lord of Ravenſtein, and he is now choſen preſump⯑tive heir to the crown of Poland. His arms for Sax⯑ony are a garland of rue for the head and hair. The diet is held at Dreſden.

The chief cities in this electorate, and thoſe we ſhall ſpeak of, are Wittenburg, Leipſic and Dreſ⯑den.

Wittenburg is the head town of the circle, lying not far from the Elbe, over which it has a ferry; the city is not large but fortified; the old citadel was formerly the electoral palace, and here are kept the common archives of the Saxon houſes. It has a [153] univerſity, and the number of ſtudents are about 700, where they are taught the arts of dancing, fencing, and other polite accompliſhments. They are under the care of 12 profeſſors who teach Latin, Greek, and French. Young perſons are ſent hither from all parts of Germany, particularly from Hamburg and Dantzic.

The Sokoloff church here is a building of about 300 years ſtanding, where Martin Luther firſt preached the doctrine which occaſioned the revolt from the Roman principles. He is alſo interred here, but has no other monument than a ſimple braſs plate with an inſcription, except his original portrait at length, painted on wood, and well preſerved ſince 1540.

The people in Leipſic, as in moſt places, where the Lutheran religion prevails, have a ſtrong tincture of Romiſh ſuperſtition. Among ſeveral inſtances of which the credulous firmly believe and report as a fact, that in the library now belonging to the acade⯑my, the Devil paid a viſit to Luther, and offered to ſhake hands with the reformer, as a mark of politeneſs and reſpect, at which the pious man was ſo incenſed that he took up his large, leaden ink-ſtand, and threw it right in the intruder's face, ſo that he was obliged to make a precipitate retreat, all ſmeared over with ink, muttering horridly that he would be revenged of the doctor, who had ſo ſaucily treated him, for no other [154] cauſe than his friendly attention to him to call and aſk him how he did!

Indeed this mark of diſreſpect in Luther, ſtrongly indicated his reſolute determination to be at continual variance with the prince of the air; for honeſt Martin, built his fabric on a ſolid foundation, and erected the whole fabric with faith and good works as the ſtone and lime of durability, which, no doubt, greatly diſ⯑pleaſed his highneſs who is highly delighted with the frivolity of ceremony.

But as all human inventions are imperfect in their conſtruction as well as application, and always admit of ſeveral amendments, we cannot omit this oppor⯑tunity of paying the good man the higheſt compli⯑ment for his extraordinary talents in removing the veil of darkneſs from the eyes of millions then un⯑born! not to ſpeak of the grand work he performed then of diſciplining thouſands by the force of rational argument and appealing to the underſtandings of men of common capacities.

In this city are at leaſt 500 private manufactories in various branches; particularly the art of dyeing is performed here in a ſuperior ſtile, ſo that from all parts of the country for many miles diſtant, cloths are ſent to be dyed, blue, green and ſcarlet. Hence the elegant colours of theſe hues, are emphatically [155] called Saxon, thereby implying that they are of faſt colours. The nap, pile, or ſheering, is grained ac⯑cording to any order ſent, with extraordinary neat⯑neſs, and the neweſt face poſſible appears on the goods; an act worthy of imitation and attention.

Leipſic is the next city in this electorate, and is the capital of Miſnia; it is a very ſmall but very hand⯑ſome, and, in ſome places, ſplendid city, though it has been the theatre of almoſt every German war. It is ſituated in a pleaſant, fruitful plain, at the meeting of three ſmall rivers, viz. the Elſter, Pleiſca, and Parda, about 40 miles N. W. of Dreſden. It is a town of great trade, eſpecially at the three annual fairs of Chriſtmas, Eaſter, and Michaelmas, when their ſtreets are crowded with foreign merchants.

The civility and politeneſs of the inhabitants, its elegant buildings and the delightful gardens with which it is ſurrounded, make it appear ſuperior to ma⯑ny capital cities. The country round it is very plea⯑ſant and well cultivated. Its fertility draws hither multitudes of larks which are very fat and has a deli⯑cate flavour, ſo that Leipſic larks are famous all over Germany, and the exciſe on them produces £.900 a year ſterling to the city; the revenue accruing to the Elector from this city alone is computed at £. 70,000 a year. In the ſand-pits about Leipſic are dug up corals, ſtar-ſtones, ſhells, and other marine produc⯑tions, [156] which ſeem to confirm the account of the uni⯑verſal deluge, for though the land be moſtly level, it lies pretty high, the neighbouring rivers are never known to overflow the country, nor are the marine productions, found here, ever found in thoſe rivers.

The commerce and manufactures of this place are very conſiderable. It is the centre of the book-trade of all Germany, and of the wool-trade of all Saxony, and there are few cities in Germany which ſurpaſs it in commerce and exchange. Here they make vel⯑vets, woven ſilks, ſhags, linens, cloths, rattines, car⯑pets, and a great variety of other things. This city ſupplies the greateſt part of Saxony with drugs, and has a conſiderable ſhare of the trade which is carried on betwixt the ſouth of Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and the north. There are ſeveral wealthy houſes here. The fair is no more than a ſhadow of what it was thirty years ago. The moſt remarkable part of the preſent trade, is the exchange of books, carried on by the German bookſellers. Their number is about 300, and the value of the books they exchange amounts to 500,000 rix-dollars, or about £.73,000 ſterling: formerly they had three fairs, and merchants brought or ſent goods from every part of Europe; vaſt maga⯑zines were formed of Eaſt-India goods of all ſorts, and of Weſt-India commodities; but the wars have been its deſtruction.

[157]There are no eccleſiaſtical buildings here worth no⯑tice, except the church of St. Nicholas, which is ſaid to be the fineſt Lutheran church in all Germany. The exchange is a very noble ſtructure, and the cieling of the hall well painted. There is a famous univerſity here, which conſiſt of only four colleges, as the ſtu⯑dents are not confined to their chambers, as in other places, but the buildings are not ſo fine in any re⯑ſpect, as thoſe of Oxford.

In this city the purity of the German language is preſerved with great care. The library of this uni⯑verſity contains 12,000 well choſen volumes. The half of which are in folio. This library is open for the uſe of the public from ten to twelve, on Wedneſ⯑days and Saturdays.

On the ſame days, in the afternoon, free acceſs is allowed to the magiſtrates' library, which conſiſts of 25,000 volumes, many of which are well choſen.

The cabinets of urns, antiques and medals, are kept in good order. There are alſo ſeveral copper-plate prints and deſigns by the moſt celebrated maſters; an Egyptian mummy, entire, with its coffin and hieroglyphical characters; four globes, each 12 feet in circumference. Here are likewiſe ſhewn petrifac⯑tions, foſſils, minerals, and other curioſities of nature and art. There are alſo ſeveral fine paintings to be ſeen here, in high preſervation.

[158]In Richter's collection, various curioſities of the kingdoms of nature are to be ſeen preſerved in bal⯑ſamic ſpirits. The animal kingdom takes up 800 glaſſes, and are very rare ſubjects, amongſt which are ſeveral extraordinary ſkeletons of the human ſpecies, well worth the inſpection of the learned traveller. The exotics of land and water are very numerous and intereſting. In the mineral kingdom there are 130 glaſſes, exhibiting petrifactions of many parts of ani⯑mal and vegetable nature, particularly the complete ſkeleton of a large crocodile. In this curious collec⯑tion, there is one pearl valued at 1800l. Engliſh.

The connoiſſeur will find plenty of matter for an unlimited indulgence here; for every thing that can delight the virtuoſo is to be ſelected by the ſcientific adept.

The way of living, ſays Reiſbec, is totally different here from that of the other Saxon towns; and much more luxury and profuſion reigns here than at Dreſ⯑den. They play in all companies, and often ex⯑tremely high. The ladies of this place are far be⯑hind-hand with the reſt of their country-women of other towns, in domeſtic oeconomy, but agree with them in the articles of dreſs and coquetry.

Amongſt the literati, who ſwarm here, there are too many petit-maitres, boaſters, ignoramuſſes and [159] fools of all ſorts. But you meet with men in all ſci⯑ences, (continues Reiſbec,) who, from the extent, as well as the depth, of their learning, are really de⯑ſirable companions.

There are 40,000 inhabitants within the walls, and the ſuburbs alſo are filled with people. They have ſix churches for the Lutherans, which is the eſtabliſhed religion, one for the reformed, and a chapel for the Roman-catholics in the caſtle; but this laſt is not permitted to uſe bells.

They have adopted a new kind of luxury, even in their devotion, ſays Hanway, for one of the capital churches has a number of chapels projecting about ſix feet from the main wall, through which they commu⯑nicate with the church, each chapel having its diſtinct door without. Some of the richeſt citizens have beſtow⯑ed on theſe auxilliary buildings 1500, or 2000 dollars.

The ſober part of the people think the expence had been better beſtowed on the poor, as the affectation of ſo great a diſtinction is by no means conſiſtent with that equality which is ſuppoſed to be among their addreſſes to Almighty God. It ſeems to be the re⯑mains of that paſſion which the Romans had for the ſplendid embelliſhments of their temples.

[160]The people here affect to be religious; and it is a conſtant cuſtom obſerved, to ſhut their ſhops up every Friday morning, and during their devotions, which laſt till 10 o'clock, if any perſon preſumes to ſell any thing, they are ſubject to a fine of ten crowns.

The fortifications of Leipſic ſeem rather calculated for the uſe of the inhabitants to walk on, than for de⯑fence. Theſe, however, have four ſtone gates, and the citizens ſupport 200 ſoldiers; this exempts them from quarters, though they are otherwiſe ſubject to be taxed as arbitrarily as any town in Saxony.

This city is of a very ſmall extent; but the houſes are lofty, as well as elegant, in their fronts. Some of them have three ſtories of cellars, as well as of gra⯑naries on the tops of them, to the number of three or four ſtories; ſo that the whole makes an appearance of ſeven, eight, or nine ſtories. The ſtreets are clean, commodious and agreeable, and there are two or three large ſquares which they uſe as market-places.

Dreſden is the metropolis of the electorate, has a grand appearance, and opens on all ſides a magni⯑ficent object. It is beyond all compariſon, ſays Reiſ⯑bech, the fineſt city in all Germany he ever ſaw. The houſes are built in a much better taſte than thoſe of Vienna; and the eye is quite dazzled with the large and magnificent appearance of the bridge over the Elbe, which joins the two parts of the city together, and which is built on a plain, on both ſides the river, ſur⯑rounded by lofty hills, at the diſtance of ten leagues. The bridge is built of ſtone, 540 feet long, and 36 broad, on 18 arches. The paſſage over it is hori⯑zontal, and takes off very much from the grand effect it would otherwiſe have, if formed in a curve, as are the bridges of Blackfriars and Weſtminſter in London.

Great order is obſerved in paſſing this bridge, one ſide being appointed to lead to the new city, and the other to the old. Near the latter, it is adorned with a crucifix of braſs, of curious workmanſhip, about half as big as life. It is fixed on a ſtone pedeſtal, on which are the emblems of death and the devil, re⯑preſented by a human ſkull and a ſerpent in braſs.

[162]The river, which at ſome diſtance from the city, is compriſed within very narrow bounds, widens by de⯑grees as you approach, and is here a powerful ſtream, which beſpeaks all the magnificence of the town and ſtate. The hills, at a diſtance, have a ſuperb ap⯑pearance; and the mountains on both ſides the river, partly naked and partly planted with vineyards, form an uncommonly beautiful perſpective.

Here are ſeveral ſquares and lofty ſtone buildings, in which are ſix or ſeven ſtories. The rooms, though neat, are not large. The buildings make an elegant appearance, but are inferior in beauty to Berlin. Dreſden is an ancient city, and many of the ſtreets, of courſe, are narrow.

In a kind of open place or ſquare, between the old city and the new, is an equeſtrian ſtatue of King Au⯑guſtus, made by a common ſmith, the workmanſhip however is but indifferent.

Few princes in Europe are ſo magnificently lodged as the Elector of Saxony.

The Electoral Palace, in the New Town, is well worth the attention of the curious. It is large, and contains many beautiful apartments. The hall, eſpe⯑cially, is admired for its many beautiful paintings in freſco. On both ſides of the gallery ſtand ſeveral [163] large vaſes of beautiful porphyry, with a great number of marble and braſs buſts. The room ad⯑joining to this gallery is full of portraits of the firſt perſonages of Europe.

But the place that will afford the greateſt entertain⯑ment, to the curious, is the Green Vault, as it is call⯑ed, which is a muſeum. Here are ſeven apartments painted green, and the curioſities diſpoſed claſſically, and depoſited in them. I will not enumerate the pro⯑digious number of curioſities, natural and artificial, to be ſeen here, as it would fill a volume. Some of the laſt, indeed, are curious, becauſe they are invi⯑ſible to the human eye. Of this number is a cherry-ſtone; upon which, by the help of a microſcope, above one hundred faces may be diſtinguiſhed. Theſe little mechanical whims, undoubtedly, diſplay the labour, perſeverance and minute attention of the workmen; but they are not proofs of the wiſdom of thoſe who can employ artiſts to ſo little purpoſe. In the firſt apartment are all manner of models of metal ſtatues and buſts, in plaſter of Paris; in the ſecond, is a variety of curious works in ivory; in the third, pure ſilver work; in the fourth, gilt ſilver plate and veſſels of pure gold; in the fifth, pure precious ſtones and curioſities formed in them; the ſixth, the arms of the ſeveral Saxon countries, the crown, ſceptre and Imperial apple; and, in the ſeventh, ſome very rare jewels. I will mention ſome few of the moſt curious [164] articles for the information and amuſement of ſuch of my readers as may delight in ſuch reading.

In one of theſe rooms are various pieces of clock-work well worth examining. Theſe are automata of various kinds in gold and ſilver, made by Dinglinger, the famous mechaniſt. Among theſe is a ſhip ſailing round a table, while ſome of the ſailors in it weigh anchor, and the reſt are in continual action; and, at the ſame time, it performs a piece of muſic. An⯑other piece of clock-work repreſents the Virgin Mary and Joſeph, with the infant Jeſus, in a manger, and the ſhepherds, with the eaſtern magi, performing their adorations to the Meſſiah, while the heaven ſeems to open with a ſurprizing effulgence: beſides many others equally curious and intereſting.

In the next room is a different ſpecies of artificial works in ivory. And, in like order, other rooms ſhew, gold, ſilver, precious ſtones, and gems of great value. Added to theſe, enamelled tables of exquiſite workmanſhip, and really things highly advantageous to the artiſt and man of ſcience.

A work of jewelry is alſo much admired; this re⯑preſents the celebration of the Mogul's birth-day, the Mogul ſitting on his throne, his grandees and guards, and many elephants, all exhibited on a table about an ell ſquare. This employed the artiſt and 15 [165] aſſiſtants above ten years, and coſt 85,000 dollars. Here is likewiſe repreſented, in pearl, the ſtory of the prophet Jonah, the ſhip, the whale, the prophet, the rocks and the ſea. Another article ſhewn and made by the ſame jeweller, for which he was paid 46,000 dollars, is a tea equipage, with the table, &c. all of gold enamelled, and ſet with diamonds.

The great value of the different gems and jewels in this cabinet is almoſt paſt belief. There is here an onyx that coſt 48,000 dollars. It is of an oval form, near a quarter of an ell in its longeſt diameter; alſo a baſon of oriental agate, as large as half a cocoa nut, cut longitudinally. Among the ſingle gems are a large oriental ſapphire, a very extraordinary large to⯑paz, of a reddiſh water, with a great number of pre⯑cious ſtones to an immenſe value; particularly an en⯑tire aſſortment of diamonds, being a ſet of buttons for a ſuit of cloaths, and the badge of the order of knight⯑hood, with the ſtar, buckles, and head of a cane, &c. In the order of knighthood is a diamond for which the king of Poland, a few years ago, paid 200,000 dollars, it weighs 194½ grains. It is placed be⯑tween two diamonds, each of which is equal to a large nutmeg, and in the cane-head is a diamond of the ſame bigneſs.

The Elector Auguſtus was the founder of this mu⯑ſeum, and valuable articles are every year added to [166] it. There is alſo another in the palace very little in⯑ferior [...]o this of the green vault. The muſeum of Flo⯑rence, with its contents, may in value exceed this col⯑lection, but the judicious arrangement of the ſeveral pieces here, give it an appearance which pleaſes the eye beyond the Florentine muſeum.

In the palace is an apartment full of a collection of fine prints of all kinds, and a mineral gallery contain⯑ing every thing relating to metallurgy, aſſay, ores, &c. and a model of a mine. Here is a topaz weigh⯑ing two or three cwt. but impure: ſome few years back, an inhabitant of Averbach, about two miles from Dreſden, diſcovered a topaz quarry in a wood; it was in a rugged rock, 70 ells high. This rock is 240 paces in circumference. The topazes found here cut glaſs like the beſt diamond, and are not much in⯑ferior in colour to the oriental.

In ſhort, this green room or muſeum is filled with every production of nature that can be ſaid to be valu⯑able and worth the labour of a minute inſpection.

The library of this Elector is very large, and well-choſen, and the cabinet of medals, as well as the ana⯑tomical figures and putrifactions, are ſingularly cu⯑rious, and well diſpoſed, in order of arrangement. Ex⯑otic plants, (and their generical characters are finely diſplayed by the anatomy of them) are alſo ſhewn in an [167] adjoining apartment. It would be too tedious to enu⯑merate the collections of wood, doubtful names, ani⯑mals and other natural ſingularities; ſuffice it to ſay, that no place can exceed Dreſden for ſuch various ſpecimens of art and nature; monſters and ſtrange productions in a variety of ſhapes.

The arſenal is ſuppoſed to contain arms for 100,000 men beſides 15,000 braſs cannon, among which field-pieces are the ſmalleſt. There are two large mortars, which were preſented by the late king of Pruſſia, that will throw bombs of 500 lb weight.

Under the arſenal are the king's cellars, conſiſting of four large and two ſmall vaults. Two of the form⯑er are 175 common paces in length, and 100 broad, therefore by far the biggeſt of any ſet of cellars in Europe, and ſufficient to ſtow five thouſand pipes of wine at a time without incommoding the paſſage; a thing almoſt incredible, was not Keyſler's veracity pledged for the fact.

The next curioſity is the Chineſe palace, ſo called from the taſte of the buildings, and the intention of furniſhing it with porcelain. But Marſhal ſays, not⯑withſtanding the exaggerated account of it in different writers, he thinks it a ſilly affair, and by no means elegant. The ornaments of the architecture and the relievo in the frontiſpiece, are after the Chineſe and [168] Japan manner. This palace ſtands on the Elbe, and commands a view of the bridge and of the Romiſh chapel, but it is far from being an elegant building, and is ſeated too near the river.

The vaults of this palace conſiſt of 14 apartments filled with China and Dreſden porcelain. Figures of various kinds are to be ſeen here in porcelain, both ſcriptural and hiſtoric: beſides theſe, birds, beaſts, and fiſhes.

In this Chineſe, or Japaneſe palace, there is a ſtate bed, with ſome chairs, made of beautiful feathers of different colours, which coſt 30,000 dollars. This palace, Keyſler tells us, was pulled down when he was there, which was in 1729, and it was to be new built in a quadrangular form, with four grand entries. The ground-floor was to be 20 feet high, and all ornament⯑ed with modern China. The ſecond floor was to be 38 feet high, and nothing admitted but Meiſſen chi⯑na. In this ſtory was to be a gallery 170 feet long, filled with all kinds of birds and beaſts, both wild and tame, made of China, and in their natural ſize, and colour. Many of theſe were finiſhed, and he could not ſufficiently admire them.

In the menagerie were two mule leopards, each of which coſt 2000 dollars, got between a lion and a tygreſs, ſwift as the latter, and ſome apes that bred. [169] At the Elector's country ſeat, he had 14 tame ſtags which drew in a carriage, and one uſed for the ſaddle. Theſe ſet out with great ſpirit, but ſoon ſlagged.

A ſuperſtitious reverence for the Meiſſen china has induced the Elector to preſerve ſome of the firſt efforts of the porcelain fabric, and other per⯑formances in their ſeveral gradations to the perfection the art is now arrived at.

In order to preſerve this art as much as poſſible a ſecret, the fabric is rendered impenetrable to any but thoſe who are immediately employed about the work, and the ſecret of mixing and preparing is known to very few of them. The workmen are all confined as priſoners, and ſubject to be arreſted, if they go without the walls; conſequently a chapel and every thing ne⯑ceſſary is provided within.

There are about 700 men employed, moſt of whom have not above ten German crowns a month, and the higheſt wages are 40, ſo that the annual expence is not eſtimated above 80,000 crowns. This manufac⯑ture being intirely for the Elector's account, he ſells yearly to the value of about 600,000 crowns, or 105,000l. beſides the magnificent preſents he occa⯑ſionally makes, and the great quantities he preſerves for his own uſe.

[170]It is almoſt impoſſible to enumerate the multitude of pieces of fine porcelain, both foreign and home⯑made that are to be ſeen here. The culinary porce⯑lain veſſels only are valued at a million of dollars. In one apartment are 48 vaſes of blue and white Chi⯑na, for which the Elector gave the king of Pruſſia a whole regiment of dragoons. The manufactory of common porcelain is carried on near Dreſden, but the fine ſort, which has a high price, is made with the ſtricteſt precaution and ſecrecy in a caſtle at Meiſſen. Dreſden owes the invention of its porcelain to alchymy. Botticker, the firſt inventor of it, died in 1719, but he arrived at no farther than the white ſort, and it was not till 1722, that the art of making brown and white porcelain-ware was found out.

The articles of mineralogy and metallurgy ſeem to be better underſtood here than in any other part of Europe, for the greateſt works of nature are repre⯑ſented by the modellers, with ſuch ſcrupulous exactneſs, that no feature of the original is omitted: to ſuch an effect have thoſe ingenious people brought the imitative arts.

The palace is furniſhed as becomes the manſion of ſuch a prince. The drawing-rooms are particularly worth ſeeing, were it only for 12 pictures by Louis Sy [...]ſter, repreſenting the rape of Proſerpine, the meta⯑morphoſis of Act [...]on, and other fables of Ovid: the [171] looking-glaſſes, in ſome of theſe apartments, are between eight and nine feet high, and ſix and ſeven broad; the aſſembly-room for the royal family is hung with rich tapeſtry, repreſenting the atchievements of Alexander the Great. Among the ſurprizing quantity of plate which is kept in the plate-cabinet, are four ſtands, each weighing 470 marks, and 12 others not of much leſs weight; two vaſes, each above five feet high, ſcarce to be fathomed by two men, weighing 600 marks each; two pieces of the ſame faſhion, little inferior in weight; eight ciſterns, with the veſſels ſtanding in them, each weighing 800 marks. Not to mention the great number of curious clocks, beautiful tables, rich cabinets, and other furniture, here is a confi⯑dent's table, a curious piece of mechaniſm, by means of which the Elector dines privately with his confi⯑dents; for this table, with all its appurtenances is brought up through the floor from the lower apart⯑ment into the upper, and not one ſervant ſeen in wait⯑ing. The ball-room is paved with marble, and in the pavement are two large oval pieces, ſix Dreſden ells in the longeſt diameter, and between theſe another piece of red and white marble, cut out of a ſingle block, which is four ells broad, and eleven ells or ten common paces in length. This extraordinary piece of marble was brought from Voightlande, and coſt 14000 dollars. The room opens into fine walks made on the ramparts, from whence we have a view of ſeveral boats, &c. on the Elbe. On each ſide of [172] this ball-room are ſeveral fine water-works, caſcades, grottos, and baths. In the gardens are above 1500 ſtatues of white marble, well diſpoſed, with a vaſt number of ancient ones; the palace ſtands in the cen⯑tre of the gardens. The garden is laid out in a ſquare form, each ſide of which is 2600 common paces in length, that is more than an Engliſh mile. The ſta⯑bles, which, with the addition of a ſecond ſtory, may be properly called the old wardrobe, are full of ſuch ornaments as are uſed to decorate the royal apart⯑ments on public days, rich habits, with the arms and furniture of foreign nations. Theſe take up no leſs than 42 rooms. In one is ſhewn the armour worn by the corps de guard on the marriage-feaſts of the ancient Electors, ſo ornamented with ſilver, that a ſingle dag⯑ger weighs ten pounds, and the quantity of ſilver is [...] at 12 cwt. In another room are ſhewn a giant's ſword, ſent as a preſent from Denmark, the blade of which is five Dreſden ells in length, and a horſe [...]ith its furniture, which formerly belonged to a [...]am of Tartary: this horſe, with others here ſhewn, are carved in wood, but exactly reſembling the ori⯑ginals both in ſize and colour. In this apartment, hangs the Elector Auguſtus's wedding cloaths of black velvet laced with gold, with ſome powder flaſks made out of cocoa nuts by himſelf. He had a taſte for tur⯑nery, and here are ſeveral of his tools. Here are figures of many fine horſes, with very rich furniture, gold and ſilver ſet with gems, preſents from other [173] ſtates: alſo ſtatues as large as life, dreſſed as officers of the Turkiſh court, and among others one repre⯑ſenting the Grand Seignor ſitting in the ſeraglio, a number of Turkiſh arms, the arms of the different Electors, alſo a figure of the Elector Auguſtus, in the habit he wore when he was crowned king of Poland. The robe is of blue colour, flowered with gold, faced with ermine and lined with ſilver tiſſue. The crown, ſceptre and globe, are only ſet with falſe ſtones. A ſtep lower ſtands Charles XII. of Sweden, in a ſilver, half cuiraſs on the left, and the Czar Peter on the right; and near theſe an executioner's ſword, by which 1400 perſons are ſaid to have been beheaded. There are a thouſand other curioſities of great anti⯑quity, too tedious to mention.

In the ſtables are very handſome apartments, where foreigners of diſtinction are generally entertained. The ground-floor contains ſtabling for 130 horſes. The Doric pillars in the centre are adorned with baſſo relievos of braſs, and by turning a cock in theſe pil⯑lars, the ſtables are ſupplied with water for the horſes.

In ſpeaking of the curioſities to be met with at Dreſden, it would be unpardonable to paſs over in ſilence John Melchior Dinglinger, the Elector's model⯑ler and jeweller, who flouriſhed in the beginning of this century. When the Czar, Peter the Great, was at Dreſden, in 1712, his majeſty choſe to lodge with [174] Dinglinger, with whoſe ingenious contrivances in his little box, he was ſo pleaſed, that he ordered a model of it to be made in wood, and ſent it to Ruſſia as a perfect ſpecimen of a commodious dwelling-houſe. On the top of it is a ciſtern, which one man, by means of a machine placed below in the yard, could fill with water in a very ſhort time, and from this re⯑ſervoir the water was diſtributed all over the houſe. On the ſtair-caſe, at every landing-place, was a braſs cock, with two leather buckets, ſo that in caſe of fire water could be carried to any part. The leads on the top ſerved for an obſervatory, and had a complete collection of mathematical inſtruments. He had a water-work which chimed a ſet of muſical bells, and a machine for forcing a loaded waggon up hill, by the help of water.

The Elector's country ſeat at Konigſtein, about 13 miles from Dreſden, ſtands on a rock, cut ſo ſteep that it appears quite perpendicular; it is a fortreſs, and the fort in many places has projections or baſtions which command the ſides of the rock. Wood and other neceſſaries are raiſed up to the fort by cranes. Konigſtein is always ſtocked with proviſions for 26 years. The garriſon conſiſts of only 150 men, but on the firſt alarm the neighbouring villages are obliged to furniſh ſome hundreds more. This place, how⯑ever ſtrong and otherwiſe ſerviceable for ſecuring the archives and other things of value in caſe of emer⯑gency, [175] is not ſufficient to cover the country or annoy the enemy: on the top of the rock is a large green area, a wood and ſeveral gardens, in which are 38 different kinds of foreſt and fruit trees. It takes half an hour to walk round the ramparts. The fortreſs is provided with five ciſterns or ſmall ponds, as reſer⯑voirs for ſnow and rain-water, and in them are ſeveral kinds of fiſh for the governor's uſe. The water which the garriſon drinks is drawn up by a wheel from a well 900 Dreſden ells deep. The ſinking of this well was a work of 40 years, before a ſufficient quantity of wa⯑ter could be obtained, which ſtands at preſent 18 ells deep. I obſerved, ſays Keyſler, that when a pitcher of water was poured down the well, it was 45 ſeconds be⯑fore it reached the ſurface of the water. It is always kept clean, and a machine is contrived to let down workmen to repair or clean it. In this fort is a wine⯑caſk, which took three years making; it is 17 Dreſ⯑den ells long, and its diameter at the bung, 12 ells. It conſiſts of 157 ſtaves, eight inches thick, and 54 boards for the heads; each head weighs 77½ cwt. The caſk was filled in 1725 with 6000 quintals of good Meiſſen wine, which coſt above 40,000 ducats, or £.6000 ſterling, reckoning the quart only 3d½. Engliſh. It holds 3,709 hogſheads of Dreſden mea⯑ſure. Till this was made, the tun of Heidelberg was reckoned the largeſt in the world, but th [...]s at Konig⯑ſtein contains 649 hogſheads more. The top of this caſk is railed in, and affords room for 15 or 20 per⯑ſons [176] to ſit and regale themſelves. The Konigſtein caſk lies in a vault, as in a temple of Bacchus.

The town does not ſeem to be peopled in propor⯑tion to the ground it ſtands on. The number of in⯑habitants is eſtimated at 50,000; though the fact is, that it loſt near a third of the people ſince the break⯑ing out of the Sileſian war, and the death of king Auguſtus. Proviſions are dear; and few men of large fortunes are to be met with here. The arti⯑ficers are extremely pinched, and find it difficult to provide the neceſſaries of life by their induſtry, as the wages of tradeſmen are very low. And, notwith⯑ſtanding all theſe diſadvantages, this ſingle town con⯑tains more manufacturers and uſeful artiſts than all Bavaria beſides. Several fabrics of woollen cloth, ſerges, ſilks, &c. are well wrought here.

The opera and theatres here are in the ſame ſtate as all other public amuſements which require expence. The inhabitants are too oeconomical to pay for an en⯑tertainment, which the court formerly gave them for nothing, and the loſs of which is eaſily made up by the charms of their private ſocieties. Rural theatres, where children act, flouriſh much more here than the rational one does.

In the late Elector's time this court was, perhaps, the moſt brilliant in Europe. The court-band of [177] muſic, the opera, and the dancers alone, were ſup⯑poſed to coſt the Elector, yearly, upwards of 780,000 French livres, or upward of 34,000l. ſterling. His table, ſtables and his hunters, were all in the ſame ſtile of expence. Strangers uſed to flow here from all countries to partake of this magnificence; and Dreſden was the rendezvous of the north for taſte and refined living. The numerous followers of the court, and the great number of ſtrangers, occaſioned an ex⯑tenſive circulation of money, and made all the arts alive. Amid the intoxication of proſperity, the mi⯑niſter adopted a plan of operations, which it was im⯑poſſible he ſhould ſee the end of; and which left him at the diſcretion of the more powerful monarch, with whom he entered into a league againſt a dangerous neighbour.

The Saxons entered into an alliance with Ruſſia, then formidable to Poland; they attached themſelves to Auſtria, and endeavoured to weaken the king of Pruſſia. The king of Pruſſia fell on the country, as Charles XII. had fallen upon Poland under Auguſtus II. and their army, which was 17,000 ſtrong, and was expected to do wonders, ſurrendered without ſtriking a ſtroke.

The manners, and way of living of the people in this city, is quite oppoſite to thoſe of the reſt of Ger⯑many. Finer ſhapes▪ more animated countenances, [178] eaſier and leſs conſtrained motions, general courteſy, univerſal cleanlineſs, are the features which charac⯑terize the people of this place. The ladies, in ſhort, are handſome. I recollect, ſays Reiſbec, that an Au⯑ſtrian lady made the following anſwer to a gentleman who was extolling the Saxon women in her company. "Give us only," ſaid ſhe, "as handſome and ſtrong built men as the Saxons are, and we will take care of the reſt."

Eating and drinking do not go forwards here quite ſo briſkly as in the ſouthern parts of Germany; the broth here is ſo thin, the meat ſent up to table ſo cold, and always ſo ſlender, that an inhabitant of Vienna could not make ſhift to live a month with a family in the middling ranks of life here. There is even, in the beſt houſes, a parſimonious attention to the cel⯑lar and kitchen, which, in Auſtria and Bavaria, would paſs for poverty.

This rigid oeconomy extends to every article of houſkeeping; the only appearance of expence is in that of dreſs, which is carried farther here than in the ſouth of Germany. Every perſon of the middle claſs of life, nay, of the lower one, men, as well as wo⯑men, dreſs according to the faſhion; whereas, at Vienna, Munich, and ſome other places, there is a kind of national dreſs, which perſons, even of the better kind, conform to.

[179]The contraſt between the women of the two coun⯑tries is equally ſtriking. Thoſe of the ſouthern parts of Germany have nothing but their beauty; but theſe have beauty and animation too; they appear, how⯑ever, ſoon to fade; and there are few women paſt thirty, without ſome marks of old age. The Bava⯑rian women, perhaps, excel theſe of Dreſden in com⯑plexion; but the latter are much better made, and their countenances are much more intereſting.

Dreſden ſuffered much when attacked by the King of Pruſſia in 1759; and the wretched citizens were expoſed to a continued cannonade and bombardment. Churches, fine buildings, and whole ſtreets, were laid in aſhes. Many of the houſes ſtill lie in rubbiſh; but the inhabitants are gradually rebuilding; and, pro⯑bably, all the ruined ſtreets will be repaired before a new war breaks out in Germany. No fortified town ſhould have palaces or ſuburbs; and it would be for⯑tunate for the proprietors of eſtates in Dreſden, if they were allowed to deſtroy the fortifications; theſe fine buildings would then be in little danger of being overthrown.

The late Count Bruhl's magnificent manſion, now belongs to the Elector; and his fine collection of paintings were ſold to the empreſs of Ruſſia for 150,000 rix-dollars; they ſay, here, that the Count had, at leaſt, 300 different ſuits of cloaths; of each of [180] theſe he had a duplicate, as he always ſhifted his clothes after dinner, and did not chuſe that his dreſs ſhould appear different in the afternoon from what it had been in the morning. A painting of each ſuit, with the particular cane and ſnuff-box belonging to it, was very accurately drawn in a large book, and preſented to his excellency every morning, that he might fix upon the dreſs in which he wiſhed to appear for the day. This miniſter was accuſed of having accumu⯑lated a great fortune.

There is at Dreſden a very ingenious foundery for bells and cannon. The fine arts of painting and ſculpture are well performed in this place. Needle⯑work and lace are articles for which this city is famed all over Europe. The commerce of the town is con⯑ſiderable for the works of art it produces.

But the ſilver that is brought from the mines at Fridburg every fifteenth day, and reduced to a regu⯑lar coinage for the benefit of the proprietors, is a great article of general utility here. The reaſon which may be aſſigned for it, is on account of its vir⯑gin purity, being ſeven per cent better than our En⯑gliſh ſtandard; conſequently, an advantageous trade may be followed by the merchants, in this ſingle branch of exportation, to other countries. The pro⯑duce of the whole of the mines may now be eſti⯑mated at 10,000l. a month.

[181]The chief religion of the inhabitants is Lutheraniſm; but there are profeſſors of all denominations; and the clog of ſuperſtition ſeems to be here intirely done away.

The Saxon troops have a very martial appearance. The men, in general, are very handſome and well made. Neither they nor their officers are ſo very up⯑right and ſtiff in their manner as the Ruſſians. They are like the Engliſh, who are ſoldiers only when in action; and are as brave as any thing you can call brave; but, at this time of day, bravery alone is not ſufficient. They tell you a ſtory of them, which would appear ridiculous in the eyes of a Pruſſian or Auſtrian commander; but which muſt recommend them to a friend of human nature and a citizen of the world. The officers of a Saxon regiment of dragoons, which made part of the army that fought againſt Prince Henry of Pruſſia in Bohemia, took an oath, ſub dio, that they would put to death any of their number who ſhould run away in action. The Saxon army is 25,000 ſtrong. The uniform of the guards is red and yellow; that of the marching regiments white. The ſoldiers, during the ſummer, wear only waiſtcoats, even when they mount guard, and always appear neat and clean; the ſerjeants, beſides their other arms, have a large piſtol; this is ſo commo⯑diouſly faſtened to the left ſide, as to give no trouble. [182] The band of muſic belonging to the Saxon guards is the completeſt of the kind that can be.

Dr. Brown ingeniouſly gives a deſcription of the mines of Friburg, which, he ſays, lie remarkably deep, and produce ſuch rich ore, that it yields 65 pounds of ſilver for every 112 pounds of it. Theſe mines, ſince they were opened, have produced, ac⯑cording to the moſt authentic accounts, upwards of 30 millions ſterling.

The method of diſcovering mines, as practiſed here, muſt gratify the curious reader, therefore we ſhall lay before him what two authors of known ve⯑racity, Dr. Brown and Dr. Nicholſon declare, and they were eye-witneſſes to the experiment.

A perſon took in his hand a hazel ſtick, forked at the end, which he carried horizontally, whilſt he walked over the ground; and, on his croſſing a place where ore lay under the ſurface of the earth, the ſtick changed its poſition by turning in his hand; whereupon he marked the ſpot, and then proceeded further, and as often as there was ore in his way, the ſame thing was experienced by the experimentaliſt.

The working of theſe mines is very dangerous to the workmen, who frequently meet with damps that [183] prove mortal. Another inconveniency is, that the duſt of the ore cankers and frets the ſkin, lungs and ſtomach, and brings them into irrecoverable con⯑ſumptions: to ſave themſelves againſt which, they frequently wear maſks with glaſs eyes.

The mines are cold, as far as the air can penetrates but afterwards warm enough.

The Saxons have diſtinguiſhed themſelves by their ſkill in mining all over Europe. Their ſtrong bodies, their indefatigable induſtry, and their good under⯑ſtanding, particularly qualify them for this kind of employ, which is the moſt complicated and laborious of all human occupations, and which requires the greateſt variety of knowledge to bring to perfection.

Eyſleben is the principal city of Mansfeldt county, and is famous for its giving birth to that eminent character, Dr. Martin Luther, in 1483, who died here in 1564.

As we boaſt of Saxon original in this country, I have endeavoured to diſplay the character of the people, in a comprehenſive manner, ſo that the rea⯑der may eaſily compare the one with the other, and judge of the copy from the original. But, that the former has the advantage by the poliſh and graceful⯑neſs [184] of manners, from his ſituation in a land of free⯑dom, I doubt not will be readily admitted.

Hunting is the ruling paſſion of this electorate, and a fatal paſſion it is; for the rational inhabitants are more diſtreſſed by it than the brutes. In the hard winter ſome years ago, it was computed that above 30,000 head of deer died in the Duke's dominions; and yet in the open lands and foreſts there is now ſup⯑poſed to be upwards of that number, none of which are to be deſtroyed by the inhabitants under the pe⯑nalty of being condemned as a galley-ſlave; and theſe, with the wild boars, are a great nuiſance to the country. In every town of note there are 50 of the inhabitants to watch, five every night by rotation, and ring hand-bells every quarter of an hour, to frighten the deer, and defend their corn from the in⯑curſions of ſo formidable an enemy.

This ill-timed paſſion, joined to a fooliſh reſpect for the cuſtom of their forefathers, thus induces the Electors of Saxony to violate the property of their ſubjects, at the ſame time they depart from the true ends of government, and conſequently from the true happineſs which they fondly ſeek by ſuch gratificati⯑ons.

The adjacent country to the electoral palace, near Meſſein is highly proper for the ſport; and the dogs [185] and horſes are kept in order, being exerciſed twice a week. The hunting equipage of the Saxon court is very gay and brilliant, a uniform of yellow cloth laced with ſilver, being worn on theſe occaſions by every one who appears in the field.

The inhabitants of the ſmalleſt villages in the Saxon mountains, though often ſhut out from the world by hills on each ſide, are more poliſhed, better bred, and more alive than thoſe of the largeſt towns in the ſouth of Germany.

Reading is almoſt univerſal in this country, ſocia⯑bility and hoſpitality accompany and encourage the hardeſt labour. Even the ſocieties of the inferior ranks are diſtinguiſhed by the liberality, knowledge of the world, wit and jollity, to be met with in them. The women are throughout remarkable for the beauty of their ſhapes, the animation of their looks, and their infinite ſpirit, eaſe and vivacity, and yet they are quite good natured, and admirable houſe-wives. The men have of late, indeed, began to complain a little, that, for ſome time paſt, their beautiful partners have been too much addicted to vanity, but their clamours would ſoon ceaſe, if the women were to unite and make a law, that every eighth or tenth man ſhould take an Auſtrian or Bavarian wife for the edification of the whole community. For my part, ſays Baron Reiſbec, the article of dreſs alone excepted, I have [186] not been able to diſcern a ſingle excreſcence which wants pruning; whereas the Bavarian and Auſtrian women, beſides being full as fond of dreſs, break out a little both at bed and board, and do not concern themſelves at all with domeſtic matters.

Conſpicuous as the induſtry and commerce of the people is, the ſituation of the farmer amongſt them is truly to be pitied. This is owing to the quantity of land in the hands of great farmers. Along the foot of the Ertzgeberg mountain, and in the plain, the vil⯑lages on all ſides are ſo numerous that you can hardly count the ſteeples. Thoſe in the electoral territory, taking in the Lauſits, amount to near ſix thouſand. I ſaw ſeveral farmers ploughing with one ox and one cow, many have only a cow, that ſerves them for milk and to plough with. It is true the ſoil is very light, but no farmer can do well with ſo little cattle. Great part of them live upon potatoes, cabbage, and tur⯑neps; ſeldom is meat ſeen at their tables. But they all drink coffee, and the profuſe uſe they make of it is a ſtrong contraſt to their penuriouſneſs in other re⯑ſpects. It is made in large pots, but ſo weak as to have ſcarcely the colour of the berry. Their cleanli⯑neſs, however, in the midſt of their poverty, is re⯑markable.

Throughout the whole level country, even the common people ſpeak good German, and excepting [187] on the mountains, ſo do the farmers. Some miles from Leipſic I viſited a gentleman, continues the Baron, on his eſtate, for whom I had letters from Dreſden, and I thought myſelf in a ſchool of paſtoral felicity, and ſhall ever conſider the few days I paſſed with him as ſome of the happieſt in my life. The eſtates of theſe gentlemen are ſmall; as the Saxon nobility, in general, are as poor as they are numerous, but it is to this very poverty that they owe their happineſs. They underſtand how to unite the beautiful with the uſeful, taſte with ſimplicity, economy with various amuſe⯑ments, and nature with art; in ſuch a manner as to make that buſineſs, which other men look upon as a puniſhment, a ſource of endleſs and uninterrupted fe⯑licity. They reliſh pleaſures as Epicureans do rich wines, which they keep a long while on the palate, in order to reliſh the flavour; they underſtand how to mix the amuſements and the occupations of the coun⯑try, ſo as to make them follow each other in agreeable ſucceſſion ſo well, that it is worth while to come among them to read Virgil's Georgics, which I am perſuaded cannot be read any where elſe with ſo much pleaſure. Fiſhing is with them a very weighty and important buſineſs, and no where have they brought the art to greater perfection. They have ſe⯑parate ponds, in which fiſh are kept according to their age, and with different intentions. Theſe ponds are in fallow lands, which at certain times are broke up and ploughed again, ſo that the eſtate reaps thus a [188] double advantage, they fill their lands with great judg⯑ment, and ſtudy the art of planting beyond other na⯑tions. Saxon wool next to Spaniſh and Engliſh is the beſt in Europe, and ſo on.

To ſuch various practical and theoretical improve⯑ments of their lands, do the nobility add ſmall walks, viſits to their friends in town or country, collections of nature and art, and attention to improve the ſchools of their diſtricts, poetry and muſic. The rich, I mean thoſe who have from 800l. to 1000l.a year, Engliſh, (moſt have only from 80l. to 100l.) come to town for only one or two months in the year. Their daughters are the clevereſt and livelieſt creatures in the world. Their natural ſenſibility contracts a romantic turn in the ſtillneſs of the country, which appears in their converſation and actions, and leads them to take unguarded ſteps in the firſt years of their life. Unequal marriages and elopements, of courſe, are extremely frequent here. In Swabia, Bavaria, and Auſtria, I met, ſays the ſame author, with Saxon girls of good family, who in the laſt Sile⯑ſian war had enliſted with officers of the Imperial and Circle armies, and who all made excellent wives and mothers. The country girls have not in general great livelineſs or much coquetry. They are penſive and tender, and all of them are as handſome as angels. The kind of reading in faſhion in Germany, which is chiefly novels and romances, is no proper improve⯑ment [189] for the ladies of Saxony, who are, by nature, of ſuch inflammable conſtitutions.

The Court cannot make the ſmalleſt law without the conſent of the ſtates; theſe are made up of three orders, viz. the ſpiritualities, noblemen, and gentry; and they compoſe a ſort of diet; for the power of the Elector is confined to their direction.

The revenue of this country amounts to 1,100,000l per annum. The taxes are all appropriated by the ſtates to ſpecific purpoſes; nor can the Elector make any alteration in the deſtination of them, without their conſent. He has his own privy purſe, to the ſupply of which particular revenues are alſo appointed.

The induſtry of the natives makes this circle one of the moſt reſpectable in Germany, for they neither want food or cloathing; even the very loweſt among them makes an ample proviſion by his aſſiduity and atten⯑tion to the calling he has been brought up in. A peaſant will carry a couple of hundred weight of pro⯑viſions to market eight or ten miles, in a wheelbarrow adapted to his uſe, and return to his home, having diſpoſed of his commodity, and all in good time to breakfaſt! Hence we may infer that the Saxons are not an indolent people, but on the contrary an active, induſtrious race of men.

[190]Before we diſmiſs this article, we ſhall remark, that from the diſpoſition of the natives to ſtrangers, are hiſ⯑toric traits of narrative frequently drawn; which is a ſource pregnant with danger, and for the moſt part full of erroneous principles.

The Saxons are honeſt, blunt, and fair in their dealings and converſation: therefore a traveller will be ſome time before he arrives at a knowledge of their natural propenſities and diſpoſitions.

It is a fact well known in our own country, that the art of retailing falſehood is become a practice reduced to ſcientific principles, though we pique ourſelves on being nationally frank, and reſolve the queries of fo⯑reigners without reſerve, and in an open honeſty, pe⯑culiar to our country. Yet many needy pillars of ſtate, have their tale-bearer to the duns at the door, whoſe chief employment is to aſſert in the forenoon "his maſter's not up,"—in the afternoon "he is out," in the evening in company and at dinner,"— but at night the deluded crowd are informed — the deſired object "is gone to the play—ball—maſquerade, &c." and will only be home with the new born day, then to ſucceed! Yet this diſpoſition of the member, who is perſonally protected by his title or ſeat in the legiſla⯑tive aſſembly, can be no proof that the Engliſh nation are not punctual in paying the juſt demands of credi⯑tors; for on the contrary no people are more regular in doing it.

CHAP. IX. Lower Saxony.

LOWER Saxony comprehends Holſtein N. Dit⯑marſh W. Stomaria S. and Wagerland E. ſubject partly to the king of Denmark, and partly to the duke of Holſtein Gottorp; Hamburg, a ſove⯑reign ſtate; Mecklenburg Schwerin, and Strelitz, ſubject to their dukes; Hildeſheim, ſubject to its biſhop; Magdeburg and Halberſtadt, ſubject to Pruſſia; Brunſwick Wolfenbuttle, ſubject to its duke, and Brunſwick Lunenburg, Hanover, Bremen, Verden, &c. ſubject to the king of England, as elector of Hanover. Of Daniſh Holſtein, and the Pruſſian ter⯑ritories, we have already ſpoken; of the reſt we will now ſpeak.

The northern diviſion of Germany comprehends the upper and lower circles of Germany, which are bounded by the Baltic Sea, Denmark, and the Ger⯑man Ocean, on the North; by Poland and Sileſia, on the Eaſt, by Bohemia, Franconia, and the Langra⯑vate of Heſſe Caſſel on the South, and by the circle of Weſtphalia on the Weſt; ſituate between 8 and 18 [192] deg. of E. long and between 50 and 55 deg. of N. latitude.

As to the duchy of Magdeburg, and the principa⯑lity of Halberſtadt, which are uſually reckoned to be contiguous to, and are incorporated with, the other dominions of the elector of Brandenburg, we ſhall not conſider them here, having treated ſufficiently of them when ſpeaking of Pruſſia. This circle is bounded by the German Ocean, Denmark, and the Baltic Sea, towards the North; by Pomerania, and the Marquiſate of Brandenburg, towards the Eaſt; by the territories of the Landgrave of Heſſe, on the South; and by the circle of Weſtphalia towards the Weſt, extending in length from Eaſt to Weſt 200 miles, and from North to South 190. The winters here are long, and air exceedingly cold; but the coun⯑try produces corn in many places and does not want rich paſtures.

The Duchy of Mecklenburg, which includes the territories of the two families of Schwerin, and Stre⯑litz, and the Swediſh town of Wiſmar, is bounded by the Baltic Sea on the North, by Pomerania, on the Eaſt, Brandenburgh on the South, and Lunenburg towards the Weſt. It is computed to be from 24 to 30 German miles long, with a breadth of nine, ten, and eighteen.

[193]This country has the advantage of the Baltic Sea for many miles, beſides great number of rivers and large lakes, which is one reaſon that the air is un⯑healthful in ſummer; and its northern ſituation ren⯑ders it intolerable cold in the winter.

According to the remonſtrance of the nobility in 1718, to the Imperial court againſt the contributions required of them, the whole duchy is full of large and ſmall lakes, from one to three German miles long, and from one to one and a half broad, yielding little or no⯑thing. There are likewiſe large and deſolate heaths here, with moors, woods, fens, and quarries. One half of the country conſiſts of a ſandy ſoil, which when well dreſſed, will produce, only a little rye and oats; and the paſtures, compared with thoſe of Hol⯑ſtein and Pomerania, are very indifferent; of the other arable lands when well manured, a third bears barley, but produces very little wheat. In general the ſoil is light and ſandy, and yields only four for one. But the fact is, according to Buſching, quite dif⯑ferent. The land is incomparable, and nothing in Holſtein or Pomerania can exceed it; and, when well manured, produces not only four-fold, but ge⯑nerally five, ſix, or eight. The country is inter⯑ſperſed with delightful eminences, very pleaſant and profitable woods, and good fruit-trees. The lakes and rivers yield large revenues, abounding in fiſh, and the whole duchy has been much improved, and is ſtill [194] capable of greater improvement. Many of the nobi⯑lity here have received the value of their lands double and treble. In it are alſo ſome ſalt ſprings, with al⯑lum, iron, and copper. According to eſtimation in 1628, the farms in the whole country amount⯑ed to 2496. The nobility are accounted a free ſtate, and enjoy very conſiderable privileges. The peaſants are under villenage.

The inhabitants are Lutherans. There are ſome Calviniſt congregations, and in Schwerin the Roman-catholics are permited the private exerciſe of their worſhip. The towns have grammar-ſchools, and at Roſtock is a univerſity. The country is not without woollen-manufacturers, tanners, leather-dreſſers, to⯑bacco-ſpinners, and other trades, but the number of them is not ſufficient. Its exports are corn, flax, hemp, hops, wax, honey, cattle, butter, cheeſe, wool, and ſeveral kinds of wood.

The Duke of Mecklenberg Schwerin, has, by vir⯑tue of the duchies of Schwerin and Guſtro, two votes at the diets among the princes. The annual revenues of this dukedom is 300,000 rix-dollars, and thoſe of the Duke of Strelitz, between 70 and 80,000 rix-dollars.

The duchy is generally divided into ſix parts, wherein are 45 cities and towns. The chief of which are thoſe of Schwerin and Guſtro. The former is [195] the capital of the circle of that name, and the uſual reſidence of the Duke, being pleaſantly ſituated on a lake, which partly ſurrounds the town, abounding with a variety of fiſh. The city is neat and well built. The Duke's palace ſtands on an iſland in the lake, being fortified and communicating with the town by means of a bridge. Some parts of it command a moſt delightful proſpect.

The collection of paintings in this palace is very valuable, and its gardens laid out in a fine taſte, to the greateſt advantage poſſible.

The town church is called the Domkirk, and was formerly the cathedral of the ſee of Schwerin, which is now reduced to a temporality, and bears the name of a Dukedom.

Guſtro is the capital of the circle of that name, ſitu⯑ated in the principality of Wender, on the little river Nebel, and is one of the largeſt and moſt plea⯑ſant towns in the whole country, as alſo the ſeat of the chief courts of judicature, and a ſuperintendancy.

In this town there is a fine palace belonging to the Prince, and in the church belonging to it lies the vault of the ducal family. It likewiſe contains a ca⯑thedral and one pariſh church.

[196]Though Mechlenberg is a level country, it is not without ſome pretty landſcapes, where ſoft eminences are beautified with a great variety of woods; where we ſee meadows covered with flowers, and little cottages ſurrounding ſmall lakes, all forming very pleaſing pictures. Then as to their countrymen, the Mechlenberg farmers are a very ſtrong and healthy race of men. Their curling, white hair reminds the traveller of the old Germans who heretofore contributed to the Roman luxury; that aurea Caeſaries, which on the head of a thin-boned, ſallow-faced and coughing, young ſenator, muſt have been the greateſt ſatire on the corruption of Rome, in the eyes of thinking men. Almoſt all the farmers in Mechlenberg are ſlaves; but then their fate is not ſo hard as it ſeems, the nobility being humane, en⯑lightened and good-natured. But theſe, as well as the burgeſſes of certain cities, enjoy a freedom here which has been loſt in Upper Germany. The dukes of Mechlenberg and the electors of Saxony, are the moſt limited princes of the empire; nor have any decrees at the Imperial court, which they have brought forward in their ſeveral contentions with their ſtates, yet been able to humble their nobility, whoſe jealouſy of the power of their governors ſometimes amounts to an almoſt ridiculous exceſs.

But notwithſtanding this, in a company of Mech⯑lenberg nobleſſe, the ſociety is very agreeable. It is [197] true, we meet with no academicians, no abbés, no virtuoſi, no journaliſts, no players, nor any of the characters which contribute ſo much to enliven con⯑verſation; but, on the other hand, we meet with ſound underſtanding and good hearts, which give ſocial intercourſe a ſtronger and more ſubſtantial re⯑liſh than all the anecdotes and hiſtoriettes de cour, co⯑medies, brochures, and all other artificial ragouts, with which ſo much aſſafoetida is mixed.

I have ſeen no nobleſſe happier, ſays Reiſbec, or more hoſpitable than thoſe of Mechlenberg; and Nu⯑gent was in raptures with the attention and reception he met with. Their tables are wonderfully well co⯑vered, and they are tolerably well acquainted with the life of courts. Literature is found among all ranks above the populace. The women know nothing of what is called Ton; that is to ſay, they have none of that boldneſs and imperiouſneſs, nor yet any thing of that deſire of conqueſt in our countrywomen. They are gentle and attentive to their children, ſtill and baſhful; but all they ſay is ſo naif and hearty, that, compared to it, the wit of Pariſian dames appears loath⯑ſome and flat.

At New Strelitz is a palace belonging to the Duke; near which a genteel town has been built, ſince the year 1733. The old town, called Strelitz, it is in⯑tended [198] ſhall in time be joined, by elegant buildings, to this new one.

The title aſſumed by both the Dukes of Schewrin and Strelitz, is Duke of Mechlenberg, Prince of Wenden, Schwerin and Ratzburg, &c. There is ſtill ſubſiſting two lines of the Dukes of Mechlenberg. The Schwerin line commenced in 1695, and the Guſtro line having failed, the Schwerin line laid claim to it, but the Duke of Strelitz oppoſed it. In 1701, this conteſt was adjuſted at Hamburg by an agreement, importing that the principality of Guſtro ſhould be added to the principality of Schwerin; and the principality of Ratzburg and county of Stargard, be added to the principality of Strelitz, with ſeveral commendaries and tolls. At the ſame time the right of primogenitureſhip and lineal ſucceſſion was eſta⯑bliſhed in both houſes, and the compact ratified by the Emperor. This latter branch has, in the perſon of our moſt gracious queen, given us an excellent princeſs.

The province or duchy of Holſtein, including the Lordſhip of Pinnenberg, is ſeparated, towards the north, from Sleſwic and Denmark; the Baltick ſea to the eaſt; Lavenburg weſt; and the German ocean to the ſouth. It is divided between the King of Denmark and Great Duke of Holſtein Gottorf. The King of Denmark, for his ſhare, ſends a ſtadt⯑holder to Gluckſtadt, and has a voice in the diet of the empire.

Its ſituation, between the Baltick and the German ocean, expoſes it to frequent ſtorms: which, if they purify the air, occaſion alſo a heavy expence to the diſtricts along the German ocean and the Elbe; for the inhabitants, to ſecure themſelves from the inun⯑dations which they have cauſe to dread in ſtormy weather, are obliged to raiſe ſtrong dykes, and to ſecure them conſtantly for their perſonal ſafety.

The land is excellent in its kind, producing every ſort of bread-corn, vegetables and nutritive herbs; by which means it affords fine breeds of cattle, ſtrong and healthy.

[200]In this country are found fiſh-ponds of a very ſin⯑gular nature, abounding with carp, lampreys, pikes and perch, for two or three years; but which, every third or fourth year, are drawn and drained, and the fiſh ſold; after which the pond, for ſome years, is ſown with oats and uſed as paſture-land; then again, laid under water and ſtored with fiſh. This is a moſt lucrative piece of oeconomy. Throughout the duchy there are no hills which can be properly ſo called.

This country is not without ſeveral manufactures and fabrics, particularly in the towns of Altena and Gluckſtadt, but theſe might be conſiderably aug⯑mented. Hamburg and Lubeck ſupply the inhabi⯑tants with moſt foreign commodities. The principal inland trading towns are Altena, Gluckſtadt and Kiel. Its exports are grain, malt, fine wheat, peas, beans, rape-ſeed, horned cattle, ſheep, rams, ſwine, horſes, poultry, butter, cheeſe, veniſon and fiſh.

Holſtein has an order of knighthood, that of Saint Anne, a red enamelled croſs worn pendant, at a red ribbon edged with yellow, from the left ſhoulder to the right ſide. The ſeat of the Great Duke's privy council and regency is Kiel.

Holſtein is ſtill a part of Germany; yet Reiſbec tells us, that he no ſooner got a few poſts beyond the Eyder, which is the natural boundary between Ger⯑many [201] and Denmark, than he found a manifeſt dif⯑ference between the two countries; as ſtriking as any between Bavaria and Saxony.

In no proteſtant country are the prieſts held in ſuch profound reverence by the people as in Den⯑mark. Pride and inſolence in the miniſters of an humble religion are ſure marks of little knowledge and a bad government in the place where it is found. The government of Denmark is the moſt deſpotic in the univerſe. This form of government has its ad⯑vantages and diſadvantages; the ſmallneſs of the country renders it eaſy to govern thus; and, on the other hand, this very circumſtance makes the people [204] feel, more ſeverely, the weakneſs and oppreſſion of its governors.

Denmark is, in truth, the ſmalleſt of all the Euro⯑pean powers; it contains ſcarce two millions of inha⯑bitants, Lapland, Greenland, Iceland, Norway and Holſtein included. The king's income does not amount, in all, to more than 83,333l. ſterling. He cannot cope with the elector of Saxony, and the elec⯑tor of Bavaria is on a footing with him. Without ſubſidies the king of Denmark is unable to maintain an army of 40,000 men, and a fleet of 20 ſhips of the line, only for a few years.

We ſhall not ſay more of Holſtein, having men⯑tioned it when ſpeaking of Denmark, but proceed to the principal towns of Kiel, Hamburgh, &c.

Kiel is the capital of the Great Duke's part of Hol⯑ſtein, ſituated on a bay of the Baltic, with a conve⯑nient harbour. The place is well built; the ſtreets ſtrait and wide, but disfigured by rows of trees, which Dutch taſte of rus in urbe is deteſtable. It contains the Duke's palace and ſome ſtate colleges. It has alſo a univerſity and a conſiſtory of its own. The proſperity of this place is not a little promoted by the annual reſort to it, by the nobility and perſons of wealth of Holſtein and Sleſwick, for the transfer⯑ring and placing out their money. This pecuniary [205] intercourſe laſts eight days; and at the ſame time, alſo, is held a conſiderable fair, which is rung in on Twelfth-day; and, on the eve of the purification, terminated by a ſecond ringing of the ſame bell. It was anciently one of the Hans-towns.

Hamburgh is a free Imperial city, independent of any other power but the Emperor, to whom it pays homage, a Hans town of the utmoſt importance of any in Europe. It ſtands on the borders of that part of Holſtein called Stormar, about 70 miles from the in⯑flux of the Elbe into the Ocean, and properly ſituated on the rivers Elbe, Alſter, and Bille. The Elbe at Hamburgh, including the iſlands on which part of the town ſtands, is not leſs than four Engliſh miles broad, forming two ſpacious harbours, and running through moſt parts of the city in canals, which being general⯑ly pretty broad and deep, are of great convenience to the merchants, whoſe houſes ſtand on them. The houſes of ſome of the warehouſes are from five to ſeven ſtories high, owing to want of cellaring: even their wines are kept in upper lofts. The merchants make their halls into ware-rooms, and they live upon the firſt floor; ſo that on entering the firſt houſes you find yourſelf at once amidſt hogſheads and bales of goods; and what is full as bad, they uſe them alſo for coach-houſes, and in ſome houſes the ſtables are under the ſame roof with the apartments. In the canals, as well as in the river itſelf, even to the diſtance of 12 or 16 miles above [206] Hamburgh, the tide ebbs and flows twice a-day, which is ſerviceable to the inhabitants, but ſubjects them to inundations, when the wind blows ſtrong at North-weſt, at which time the lower buildings and cellars are filled with water. There are no leſs than 84 bridges over the canals, many of them paved like the ſtreets, on a level with them, and houſes built on each ſide. Within the city are 40 water-mills, ſix wind-mills, ſix ſluices, and ſix large markets. The ſtreets are for the moſt part of pretty conſiderable breadth, but the houſes recommend themſelves more by their inward conveniences, and the gardens with which they are interſperſed, though more eſpecially ſtill by their ſitu⯑ation for trade, than by any outward ornaments of architecture. Some of theſe ſtreets however make a grand appearance; but on the other hand ſeveral of them are very narrow and crooked, and there are ſtill a greater number of dark lanes, wherein the houſes are very high, and many families live together; ſo that the circuit of the city is by no means propor⯑tionate to the number of its inhabitants. The walls form nearly a circle of five miles and a half, and the number of inhabitants within this circuit excluſive of Jews, is eſtimated at 100,000. On a calculation taken of the inhabitants of Hamburgh, compared with thoſe of other large cities, and made from their regiſters of births and burials, they are found to be to thoſe of Paris, as one to four; to thoſe of Amſterdam as four to ſeven; to thoſe of Vienna, as eight to [207] thirteen, and to thoſe of Copenhagen nearly on a par.

It is naturally to be imagined that in ſo populous a place there muſt be great numbers of poor, and this has given occaſion to ſo many public charities, that Hamburg is greatly admired by foreigners. The houſe of correction is a very large building, and the perſons committed to it, among whom are all who are found begging in the ſtreets, are employed in various kinds of labour, particularly in raſping Brazil and other kinds of wood. The Wayſenhaus is a place where orphans are maintained and educated, and whoſe revenue is 6000l. a year; the Peſthof, where lunatics are confined, and theſe ſometimes to the number of one thouſand; the Pockenhaus, where thoſe are received who are afflicted with contagious diſor⯑ders; the Spenhaus, where proſtitutes and ſuch like offenders are confined, and many others inſtituted for the relief of the deſerving poor, ſo that not a beg⯑gar is ſeen. There is one place where children are educated gratis, and another where unmarried women may be admitted for a ſmall ſum and maintained du⯑ring life, and there is another inſtitution for the re⯑demption of ſeafaring perſons taken by the corſairs of Barbary, with many others no leſs deſerving of commendation. With reſpect to fires, ſuch regula⯑tions are made, that every one knows the part he is to [208] act. The town is regularly watched, and wiſe pre⯑cautions are taken to prevent fires breaking out.

The fortifications of this city are in the old Dutch taſte, a high wall and a vaſt ditch, made deep and wide, with ſome outworks of no moment, the ram⯑parts lofty, covered with graſs and planted with trees, and ſuch a breadth that ſeveral carriages may go a-breaſt. On theſe ramparts any one is at liberty to take the air. The garriſon never exceeds 2,500 men, too few by 10,000 to defend the town. The Hamburg⯑erberg may be ſtiled a ſuburb, but this is not envi⯑roned by any works, and the houſes in it extend al⯑moſt as far as Altena, a town belonging to Denmark, ſo that it is merely a ditch that ſeparates the one from the other.

To the city are ſome capital gates, but theſe are not ſo much frequented as the two entrances by water from the Elbe, that is to ſay the upper and lower baſons. Through the latter paſs all ſhips going to or coming from ſea. Every morning at the opening of it, is ſeen a multitude of boats and ſmall barks, whoſe cargoes conſiſt of milk, fruits, and all kinds of provi⯑ſions, all ruſhing in at the ſame time. And in this manner the country people, who are for the moſt part under the neighbouring juriſdiction, together with a great number of others on the land ſide, in carriages, as likewiſe moſt of the neighbouring peaſants, daily [209] bring in part of the ſubſiſtence neceſſary to the city, and on the other hand return home with their own.

In the north of the town is alſo another entrance by water, which in this part runs into the city, ſo as to form a kind of lake, but included within the fortifications. Here alſo in ſummer-time, the inhabi⯑tants amuſe themſelves in barges, of which ſome have cabins and are called arks. Near this port too, up the river Alſter, is a walk conſiſting of a double row of trees of conſiderable length, which in ſummer evenings is crowded with people, and called the Jun⯑fern Stiêg, or the Young Ladies Walk.

The churches of Hamburg with their lofty ſteeples make a grand appearance. The moſt remarkable of theſe is the great church deſtroyed by lightning, in 1750, and not yet repaired. In St. Catherines church is a prodigious organ, with 6000 pipes, per⯑haps a lie uſually told to ſtrangers. The tower be⯑longing to the cathedral leans as if falling, yet on ac⯑count of the beauty of the architecture, the danger attending it has been overlooked. There are nine capital churches in all of which is ſomething wor⯑thy of notice, ſuch as tombs, ſplendid altars, pul⯑pits, organs, paintings, and the like. The tower of St. Peter has two ſets of chimes belonging to it, one of which plays by clockwork. The houſes are chiefly built with a bad-coloured brick, and the city appears [210] on the whole not more elegant than Briſtol, though much larger.

The public edifices are wanting in nothing ſo much as in outward ſtatelineſs. The other ſtructures here are chiefly worth ſeeing, for their utility and the prodigious quantity of ſtores in them, ſuch as the building-yard, the arſenal and two armouries; and a ſtranger who has never ſeen ſuch a number of large ſhips together at one time, cannot but ſee the Baum⯑beuſe on the Elbe with aſtoniſhment. The lovers of old Rheniſh, who have not before ſatiated themſelves at Straſburg or at Bremen, will not fail to viſit the carpenter's cellar here. There are a number of inns here, but of theſe few are large enough to entertain foreigners with all their attendants; every part of the city being ſo cloſely built upon, and the inſides of the houſes not ſo judiciouſly diſpoſed, as in other places of a more modern date; ſo that the want of accommo⯑dation ill correſponds with the plenty of proviſions and wines. There is one houſe on the Elbe which was formerly a guard-houſe, with a very large room on the top, with windows all round, a room of enter⯑tainment, which commands a view of all Hamburgh and a large tract of country on both ſides, with a view of the ſhipping down the Elbe. As to the con⯑ſtitution and form of government, it exhibits a per⯑fect model of a well ordered ſtate.

[211]The burghery of Hamburgh is divided into five pariſhes, agreeable to the five principal churches, and the magiſtracy is compoſed of 36 perſons, with a re⯑corder at the head. It is now much above two hun⯑dred years ſince Lutheraniſm has been the eſtabliſhed religion of this city, and no other except the Jewiſh is here tolerated. But Papiſts and Calviniſts have an opportunity of attending the worſhip of the envoys of the emperor and other ſovereigns. The Hamburg clergy amount to 53 perſons; each of the five princi⯑pal churches has a head miniſter and three or four deacons belonging to it: on Sundays there are four ſermons in moſt of the churches, and on every week day one, at leaſt in three places.

Hamburgh is ſo occupied by trade and manufac⯑tures, that ſcarce any diverſions are to be met with, except billiards, coffee-houſes and concerts. They are fond of muſic, and are expenſive in their public eſtabliſhments in its favour. The principal mer⯑chants have private concerts at their houſes, at which company who have ideas beyond a counting-houſe is ſometimes met with, but there is an inelegance, ſays Marſhall, through every thing, ſome few houſes of the more wealthy inhabitants excepted.

There is one ſpecies of luxury, in which however none of the Hamburghers vie with our Engliſh mer⯑chants, that is in the expenſiveneſs and elegance of [212] their houſes, and in their coſtly and ornamental fur⯑niture. Some of the merchants houſes in London are furniſhed like palaces, but thoſe of the richeſt in Hamburg, have nothing in them that ever reaches mediocrity. The higheſt appearance of luxury in this city, or at leaſt of unneceſſary expence, is in the entertainments given at taverns, at weddings, chriſt⯑enings, burials, name-days, &c. In theſe many of the wealthy expend as much as would build houſes, and furniſh them when built; and they entertain at the death, as well as the birth of their relations.

The Hamburghers, ſays Marſhall, much affect the manners of the French, in language, dreſs, ceremony, and compliment. They had once an Italian opera, but it dropped, and they are now confined to one theatre, in which, in the winter-ſeaſon are exhibited, French and German comedies.

In ſhort, continues Marſhall, this city is not a place where a ſtranger ſhould reſort for pleaſure, for the people are envelopped in trade; their numerous mar⯑kets afford but indifferent proviſions; their meat is not excellent, and their fiſh not of the beſt ſort, and they have no oyſters. Good claret is not met with in ta⯑verns, but their old hock and Rheniſh is in great perfection. A gentleman cannot ſpend leſs than a guinea and a half a day.

[213]The king of England as duke of Bremen is poſ⯑ſeſſed of the Cathedral of Hamburg. Its chapter conſiſts of a provoſt, and dean, 13 canons, eight minor canons, and 13 vicarii immunes. The preben⯑dines here are alternately in the gift of the king and chapter. The king of Denmark, as lord of Pin⯑nenburg, nominates to one prebendary. The chapter generally conſiſts of nobles and men of letters.

Formerly the principal occupation of the inhabi⯑tants (commerce excepted) conſiſted in brewing and making cloth. At preſent, the chief manufactory is refining of ſugar. The cotton, ſtocking, gold thread, ribband, and velvet manufactures here, with others, are much eſteemed abroad.

With reſpect to its ſeveral branches of commerce, linen, cloth, ſilk-ware, wine, ſugar, coffee, colours, ſpices, metals, tobacco, wood, leather, grain, dried and ſalt fiſh, train oil, and furs are accounted the moſt conſiderable. A Preis Courant is publiſhed at ſtated times as a newſpaper, ſpecifying the courſe of ex⯑change, with the prices of every article of merchan⯑dize The exchange is always crouded at one. This building is half covered and half open, being com⯑poſed of an area or ſquare, with covered piazzas round it.

[214]The ſtate of carving and the fine arts are in great eſteem at Hamburg, and nothing omitted in the en⯑couragement of them. Hamburg may be ſaid to abound in libraries, every church almoſt having one. There are many public ſchools here; in a word, few places equal this in its ſeveral inſtitutions for the libe⯑ral and religious education of youth. Among the fine arts, muſic is particularly encouraged; painting alſo is not without its admirers and connoiſſeurs, and it were well for the public, if architecture and mechanics were a little more in vogue. There is a city militia, con⯑ſiſting of five regiments, belonging to the five pariſh⯑es. The regular forces conſiſt of 12 companies of infantry, and one troop of dragoons, and a company of artillery. The night-guard, like a regular corps, has its ſeveral officers, parades every evening, and calls the hours.

Within the juriſdiction of Hamburg are ſeveral villages and eſtates of value and importance. Its arms are a caſtle crowned with three towers.

The firſt appearance of Hamburg, ſays Reiſbec, is very diſguſting and ugly, the ſtreets being narrow, cloſe, and black, and the people fierce, wild, and in general not very clean. As ſoon, however, as a man has made his way into the principal houſes, he begins to conceive a more favourable opinion of it. In ſome houſes of the rich merchants we ſee taſte, cleanlineſs, [215] magnificence, and even at times profuſion. The Hamburghers, continues the baron, were the firſt Proteſtants he ſaw, who continued good Catholics in the material points of eating and drinking; nor is there a place in the world where they have ſo many refinements in ſenſual pleaſure as in this. Though in few parts of Germany, gardening is in as flouriſh⯑ing a ſtate as it is here, yet they are not contented with the wonderful vegetables which their own country affords, but import many ſpecies of them from Eng⯑land, Holland, and various parts of Germany. They collect from all points of the compaſs, what every country produces peculiar to itſelf and coſtly for the table. It is the cuſtom in great houſes to give parti⯑cular wine with every diſh, according to the eſtab⯑liſhed courſes of good houſe-keeping, Burgundy, Champaigne, Malaga, Port, Madeira, have each their different diſh to which they belong. With young green beans, which is a diſh of ſome ducats, and new herrings, which coſts a guilder, the Hamburghers ſeldom drink any thing but Malaga. Burgundy is the ſtanding vohiculum of green peaſe; oyſters muſt ſwim in Champaigne, and the coſtly ſalt meats admit of no other convoy than Port and Madeira. This is not on feſtivals only, but the daily food of the rich, and their way of living is proportionable. Few aſſem⯑blies of Pariſians are more brilliant than the parties who meet in villas here, and they ſcarcely play ſo high. Thoſe who can afford to ſpend no more than [216] 20 or 30,000 livres, that is about 1,000 or 1,200l. ſterling, a year▪ rank among the middling claſs, and though they are all obliged to ſupport themſelves by their own induſtry, and there is ſcarce any nobi⯑lity with a ſtated income to be met with, there are many families who ſpend from two to 3,000l. a year in houſe-keeping.

Notwithſtanding all this love of good eating, the mind is not oppreſſed or borne down by the body here, as it is in ſouthern Germany. The Hamburghers of the higher claſs are ſtill more jovial, more happy, more converſible, and more witty than the Saxons. We meet here with many literati of the firſt claſs. Natural hiſtory flouriſhes much, and it was a Ham⯑burgher that gave Linnaeus the fundamental ideas of his Syſtema Naturae. As moſt young people are ſent abroad to form trading connections in the ſeveral ports of London, Peterſburg, Calais, Bourdeaux, &c. in all which the Hamburghers have houſes, a ſtranger is ſure to meet with ſome perſons who are ac⯑quainted with his native country.

The women of this place are handſome, genteel, and freer in their manners than they are generally in Proteſtant countries. One of the great pleaſures of this city ariſes from the Alſ [...]erſluſs. It comes from the north, paſſes through the middle of the city, and forms a lake in it nearly 800 paces in circumference.

[217]In a ſummer evening this lake is almoſt covered with gondolas, which have not ſuch a melancholy aſpect as the Venetian ones; they are filled with a fa⯑mily, or other parties, and have often boats in atten⯑dance upon them, with muſic. The whole has an aſtoniſhing good effect; which is ſtill greater from there being a much frequented public walk by the lake; the livelineſs of which correſponds, very plea⯑ſingly, with that of the people on the water.

Near the city are ſome villages on the Elbe, called the Four Lands, which are in ſummer alſo a rendez⯑vous of pleaſure. The farmers who live in theſe villages are in very good circumſtances, and take a prodigious ſum of money from the town, for their excellent vegetables, and particularly for their green peas. Every day, during the ſummer, we meet here with parties from the city, who are as conſpicuous for their genteel appearance, as for their exceſſes in eating and drinking. The farmers daughters are very pretty, and their dreſs the handſomeſt to be met with among this claſs of people. They allure the young men of the city to their cottages, and many quarter themſelves here under the pretence of a milk diet; but, in fact, to be near their ſweethearts.

Theſe four villages ſupply the town with vege⯑tables, butter, milk, hay, and many other things of [218] the kind; alſo with moſt of the women of pleaſure, and moſt of the ſpinners.

The city of Altona, which joins Hamburgh, af⯑fords alſo the Hamburghers many opportunities of amuſement. The King of Denmark, who from the jealouſy of Hamburge, endeavours by every means in his power to make this place flouriſhing, appears to have it in his head, ſays Reiſbec, to hurt the inns and brothels of the city, as well as the trade. Through his care, Altona has, in a ſhort ſpace of time, from a ſmall village, become a town of 35,000 inhabitants; among whom, however, to ſpeak freely, there are far too many raſcals.

Altona is ſeated on a high ſhore of the Elbe, con⯑tains about 3000 houſes, better in appearance than thoſe of Hamburgh, with two Lutheran and two Cal⯑viniſt churches; a fifth for the French Calviniſts, a ſixth for Roman catholics, two Menonite churches, excluſive of other ſects who are here tolerated. The Jews alſo are very numerous here and have a ſyna⯑gogue; they pay 2000 ducats a year for protection. Here is alſo a royal g [...]mnaſium, and three docks for ſhip-building. The town was profeſſedly built to ſteal the trade from Hamburgh, and is made a free port.

[219]The ſtreets are ſtrait and regularly built, wide and well paved. There is a new town-houſe erected, and ſeveral other public buildings ſhew, that the place is in a flouriſhing and improving way. The merchants houſes, like thoſe at Hamburgh, are on the water⯑ſide, ſo that ſhips load and unload at their doors. The King of Denmark has made it the ſtaple of the Daniſh Eaſt-India Company; and, owing to this, it ſends large quantities of India goods into moſt parts of Germany, and herein rivals the Hamburghers, who are forced to buy their's of the Dutch; but the misfortune is, ſays Marſhall, that the great freedom of reception here brings all ſorts of wretches; even ma⯑lefactors, from Hamburgh, here find an aſylum; nor does a merchant or tradeſman, of any kind, fail and defraud their creditors; but he appears here again on the ſtage, and carries on a freſh trade, as if nothing had happened. No ſtews, or ſtreet-walkers are al⯑lowed at Hamburgh; but both abound at Altona in the greateſt plenty; and the place ſwarms with Jews.

The country round about Hamburg, though a flat, is extremely pleaſant; the various and flouriſhing agriculture gives it a very gay appearance, and the water contributes much to its beauty. The river con⯑duces extremely to the advantage of the city, which by taking the laſt toll, has almoſt an unlimited com⯑mand over it. Notwithſtanding the quantity of water [220] and low ſituation, the air is very good, owing to the ſtrong winds which blow upon it from all quarters.

A word or two of its trade, and we have done.

Hamburgh is, without compariſon, the moſt flou⯑riſhing commercial city in all Germany. Except Lon⯑don and Amſterdam, there is hardly a port in which ſo many ſhips are conſtantly ſeen. The preſent bu⯑ſineſs conſiſts in great part of commiſſion and carry⯑ing; but the ſtated trade of the people is alſo very conſiderable. Hamburgh has ſupplied Spain with moſt of its linens, and with large quantities of iron, copper, and other articles of the north. The Daniſh government omits nothing that can hurt them. The Daniſh miniſtry have a favourite proſpect of uniting the Baltic to the German ocean, by a canal joined to the Eyder. This ſeems to be a death-ſtroke to the commerce of [...] and Hamburgh; but the intel⯑ligent part of the country are as eaſy about this as they would be, if his Daniſh majeſty was to order a canal to be dug in Greenland.

Hamburgh is truly ſingular as a commercial city; for you meet in it with perſon [...] who have been bank⯑rupts three or four times, and yet have been rich at laſt. The misfortune is▪ that as ſoon as a merchant makes 100,000 guilders, that is about 12,000l. ſter⯑ling, he muſt have his coach and country-houſe. [221] His expences keep pace with his income, ſo that the leaſt blow brings him back to poverty; but which, however, the ſlighteſt exertions will extricate him from. He ſets out in life again as a broker; and ſcarce ſhall his old eſtate and country-houſe and car⯑riages be ſold, but he purchaſes another eſtate, an⯑other country-houſe, is able to drive through the town with two prancing Holſteins; has his garden, his coach, his gambling box—till, heigh preſto!—he is a broker again. This inexplicable facility of making uſe of one's money, renders the Hamburgher here too bold; ſo that he does more buſineſs with 50,000 florins, than a Dutchman will do with four times the ſum. However, the ſecurity he is under of not being obliged to beg in his old age, renders him quite careleſs. There are indeed no where ſuch good retreats for bankrupts as in this place. If broken merchants do not chuſe to try their luck again; by turning brokers, they have employments given them, on which they can live comfortably. The Ham⯑burgher, however, works himſelf up again with the ſame eaſe with which he falls. Rich inheritances here are very ſcarce, in compariſon to the ſum of money there is in the place; and as this is divided among too many, the ebbs and flows are too fre⯑quent. The great capital of every inhabitant is in⯑duſtry and underſtanding.

[222]The government of Hamburgh is wonderful, a juſt mean between ariſtocracy and democracy. The le⯑giſlative power is in the hands of the burgeſſes, of which there are houſes or colleges. The firſt conſiſts of the aldermen, three of whom are choſen by the in⯑habitants of the reſt of the five pariſhes. Each pariſh alſo ſends nine to the ſecond college, and twenty-four to the third. All laws muſt paſs theſe three houſes; the executive power is lodged in the hands of 36 perſons, who are graduated literati, and have given proofs of their learning. The income of the ſtate is very large, partly from ſtanding ſources, and partly from occaſional taxes. Hamburgh is, in truth, the model of a well-regulated commonwealth; and the beſt ſign of its wiſe adminiſtration is, that it is almoſt the only Imperial city that carries none of its ſuits, between its own members, to the tribunal of the empire.

The burgomaſters of this place, ſays Chiſul, never appear in public, but in a peculiar dreſs, which con⯑ſiſts of a high crowned hat, made of cloth, plaited thick and ſtrong in numerous folds, with a large ruff, and a black velvet coat ending at the knees, and plaited from the middle. There are likewiſe ſeveral other ancient habits uſed by all public perſons, even to midwives, dreſſers of the dead, and thoſe who bear the corps at funerals. The habit of their divines is a round black cap, a ruff, and a gown without ſleeves. All theſe may commonly be ſeen at once in the ſolemnity of a funeral, which they here affect to make very pompous, for all perſons, even thoſe of little children. The burgo-maſters, ſenators, di⯑vines, lawyers, phyſicians, and as many of all ſorts as they can procure, attend the corps from the houſe to the church, for which they are paid a certain fee; the chief about a florin, and inferiors proportionally. It is obſervable that the bearers of the corps have a pe⯑culiar ſtep, all moving their legs at the ſame time croſswiſe, from one ſide to the other.

Mr. Chiſul tells us, that he was informed of a de⯑teſtable practice frequent among many melancholy and diſordered perſons of this place, who, weary of life, and apprehenſive of the ſin of ſelf murder, rather [224] choſe to murder ſome innocent child, and by this means be brought to capital puniſhment. This tra⯑gedy happening every year, and the frequency of the practice, is attributed to the too great facility of their confeſſors in affording peace and fair promiſes to all ſorts of dying penitents.

In this duchy, the lordſhip of Pinnenburg and town of Altona included, there are 14 towns and 18 bo⯑roughs. The eſtabliſhed religion here is Luther⯑aniſm.

Lubeck is an Imperial city, the capital of Wager⯑land, and is the chief of the Hanſe-Towns. It is plea⯑ſantly ſituated in the duchy of Holſtein Gottorp, on the river Trave, ten miles from the Baltic ſea, and 40 miles north of Hamburgh. The uniformity and beauty of its buildings, as well as its groves and gar⯑dens, proclaim it to be a delightful ſpot. Several of the ſtreets are planted with rows of trees, and from a public reſervoir water is laid in to every houſe.

The city is oddly built on two ſides of a hill, and on that account is romantic to look at. At the bot⯑tom of each declivity is a river. The ſtreets are bet⯑ter laid out than thoſe at Hamburgh, broad and regu⯑lar, but in general ſteep; the houſes are pretty well built with free-ſtone, but old faſhioned; they have large apartments, and ſpacious cellars, but the doors of the houſes are ſo wide and high, that a cart loaded [225] with hay may paſs through them. The city is kept very clean, by means of its uneven ſituation, every ſhower of rain waſhing down all the dirt and leaving it in better order than any ſcavengers could. Here are ſome public buildings, which they make a parade of ſhewing to ſtrangers, but they have nothing re⯑markable. It has five churches, a town-houſe, an arſenal, and an hoſpital.

St. Mary's church is the largeſt of the five. It is a lofty building, ſtanding in the centre of the city, has a double ſteeple, 217 yards high, built in 1304. The inſide is properly decorated with gilt pillars, monu⯑ments, &c. but few worth notice. The moſt remark⯑able thing at Lubeck is the clock in this church. It exhibits the ecliptic, zodiac, equator, and tropics, and the planets in their ſeveral courſes; which are ſo minutely done, that the ſtation of any of them is to be found at every time of the day, it ſhews the regu⯑lar variations of the celeſtial bodies, ſun riſing and ſet⯑ting, the eclipſes of the moon, and other remarkable days, all which it will continue to ſhew till the year 1875. Beſides all this, it has ſeveral automata, a⯑mong others, a figure of Chriſt, with a door on its right hand, which opening at 12 at noon, out come in order of proceſſion, the emperor and the ſeven el⯑deſt electors, and turning to the image, make a pro⯑found reverence; this the figure returns, by a wave of his hand; after which the whole group retires in the [226] ſame order through a door on the left, and both doors ſhut directly. In the lower, is another piece of ma⯑chinery, and a much more agreeable one, the chimes. Theſe play the hours with a moſt pleaſing melody and minute exactneſs. Under them is the bell, on which is ſtruck the hour by a figure of Time, whilſt a leſſer figure, repreſenting Mortality, and ſtanding at the other ſide of the bell, turns aſide its head at every ſtroke. This work, for its preſervation, is ſur⯑rounded with a wire frame, and by an inſcription we are told it was erected in 1405.

The Cathedral at Lubeck is a building of great an⯑tiquity, being erected in the year 1170, by Duke Henry, anceſtor of the preſent elector of Hanover. Lubeck has a trade that is not deſpicable, her ſituation and port are extremely commodious. From the Baltic, ſhe imports the products of Denmark, Norway, Swe⯑den, Ruſſia, and Poland, and by her inland naviga⯑tion, diſtributes them through many parts of Ger⯑many.

In many particulars there is a ſimilarity, between the way of living, diverſions and manners of the peo⯑ple of Lubeck and thoſe of Hamburg, and the inns here are very good, and entertainment full as cheap again as at Hamburg.

[227]The biſhop of Lubeck, though a Lutheran prince of the empire, ſits neither on the ſpiritual nor tempo⯑ral bench, in the courts of princes, but in a particular place croſsways, laid there purely for him and the bi⯑ſhop of Oſnaburg, when a proteſtant. The Cathedral of Lubeck, and the chapter, conſiſts of 30 perſons, four Roman-catholics and 26 Lutherans.

The magiſtracy are 14 burgomaſters, elected out of the nobleſſe and civil lawyers; and the council of 16, which may be either men of letters, patricians, or tradeſmen.

The territory of this city extends 60 miles in cir⯑cumference, and contains ſeveral ſmall towns and villages. It is in point of independance the ſame as Hamburg.

The convents and nobility in the duchy of Hol⯑ſtein, and the tenants of both, are ſubject to the joint government of the duke and king of Denmark, to which they alternatively ſucceed every Michaelmas.

The biſhoprick of Hildeſheim is generally reckon⯑ed in this circle (it is ſubject to its own biſhop,) the capital of which bears the ſame name, being ſituated 30 miles S. W. of Brunſwic, and [...]7 S. E. of Hanover. It is an Imperial city and ſovereign ſtate. The inhabitants are a mixture of Lutherans and Papiſts.

CHAP X. Of the Circle of the Upper Rhine.

THIS circle includes the territories of the dif⯑ferent landgraves of Heſſe, Caſſel, Darmſtadt, &c. the Dukedom of Deuxponts; the biſhopricks of Worms and Spire, the territory of Frankfort-on-the-Maine, and the domains of the ſeveral courts of Naſſau, and other ſovereign counties, as alſo the abbey of Fulda, ſubject to its abbot; we will ſpeak of the principal of theſe.

From this circle, ſimply called the circle of the Rhine, almoſt all lands and ſtates ſituated on the other ſide of the Rhine have been from time to time taken away by France; that is to ſay, the greateſt part of the biſhoprick of Straſburg, as alſo thoſe of Metz, Tull and Verdun, together with the archbiſhoprick of Beſancon, the princely abbey of Murbech, the abbey of Munſter, the duchy of Lorraine, and the landvogtey of Hagenau which compriſed the ten an⯑cient Imperial cities of Alſace.

CHAP. XI. Of the Circle of the Lower Rhine.

THIS circle is ſometimes called the Electoral Rhe⯑niſh Circle; and ſometimes the Circle of the four Electors on the Rhine; it terminates on that of Weſtphalia, Franconia, Suabia, and Burgundy, as alſo on Loraine and Alſace, dividing the circle of the Upper Rhine. Its real extent is ſcarce to be deter⯑mined, but in conjunction with the Upper Rhine, it amounts to 960 ſquare German miles.

The preſent ſtates of this circle are the Electors of Mentz, Treves, and Cologne, with the Elector Pala⯑tine, the Duke of Aremburg, the Prince of Taxis, the Teutonic bailiwick of Coblentz, the Prince of Naſſau Dietz, on account of the ſeignory of Beilſtein and the Count of Sinzendorf, as burgrave of Rheineck. The ſummoning prince is the Elector of Mentz. The religion is mixed.

CHAP XII. Of the Circle of Franconia.

MODERN Franconia lies almoſt in the heart of Germany, and is bounded by Heſſe and Thurin⯑gia N. Bavaria E. Swabia S. and the Lower Rhine on the W. It extends about 130 miles from E. to W. and 100 from N. to S. The ſoil is fertile and the coun⯑try beautifully diverſified with hills and valleys, pro⯑ducing great plenty of corn and wine. Its principal rivers are the Maine and the Sala; the latter of which gives name to the country where the famous Salique law was made, which reſtrains the ſucceſſion to the heirs male.

This circle comprehends the biſhoprics of Wurtſ⯑burg, Bamberg, and Aichſtat, ſubject to their reſpective biſhops; the marquiſates of Cullenbach and An⯑ſpach, ſubject to their reſpective margraves; the [339] principality of Henneberg, the duchy of Co⯑burg, ſubject to its own duke, and the duchy of Hil⯑burghauſen, ſubject to its dukes; the burgravate of Nuremberg, an independant ſtate; the territory of the great maſter of the Teutonic order, Margentheim, and the counties of Reineck; Bareith, ſubject to its own margrave; Paphenheim, ſubject to its own count; Wertheim, Middle Caſſel, Schwartzburg, ſubject to its own count, and Holach; all having chief towns of the reſpective names of thoſe places. The ſummon⯑ing princes of the circle are the biſhop of Bamberg and the margraves of Brandenburg, Bayreith and Anſpach. In point of religion, this circle is one of the mixed. Of the cities we ſhall ſpeak only of Wurtſburg, and Nuremberg.

Wurtzburg is the capital of Franconia, and ſtands on the river Main, ſixty miles E. of Frankfort in lat. 49 deg. N. The river runs through the middle of the town, over which is a very fine ſtone bridge 300 paces long. The Biſhop's palace ſtands on an emi⯑nence in the ſuburbs of the town, from which there is a delightful proſpect of the city and the adjacent country.

The Biſhop has a great extent of country under his juriſdiction, in which it is computed there are no leſs than 400 villages. It is one of the richeſt biſhoprics in the country, and contains within the dioceſe 190,000 people. He is an abſolute prince in his own domini⯑ons, [340] and lives in all the ſtate of a ſovereign monarch. In his equipage, a ſword of ſtate is carried before him; and at the diet of the empire, he takes the fifth place on the ſpiritual bench. But in the circle of Franconia he has the firſt voice.

The town is divided into eight parts, viz. four quarters and four ſuburbs, and has a univerſity. The prevailing religion here is the Roman-catholic, but there are alſo Lutheran and Calviniſt churches within the juriſdiction of the city. The Biſhop's palace is one of the fineſt in Germany. The town is ſeated in a large plain, very fruitful in vines, and watered by the Mayne.

There is among the people here ſuch an alacrity, ſuch a love for the pleaſures of the ſenſes, and free⯑dom of intercourſe between the two ſexes, as beſpeaks very ſtrongly the great affluence and eaſe of the coun⯑try. Wurtſburg has a fine manufactory of looking-glaſſes and china. The prebends of the cathedral are worth 350l. a year, ſeveral prebendaries have four or five prebends in as many cathedrals, and re⯑ceive from 20 to 30,000 florins a year. The whole trouble of a German canon conſiſts in a month's re⯑ſidence yearly, and no other qualification is required of him, than to be able to read Latin, and prove himſelf deſcended from a good family on the mother's ſide. It is credibly aſſerted, that every canon of Wurtſburg, at his firſt entrance into the chapter, receives a ſtroke [341] with a ſwitch from each of his colleagues. This ex⯑traordinary inauguration is continued with a view of preventing any prince (who, of courſe, cannot ſub⯑mit to ſuch a ceremony) from deſiring to be of the chapter.

Nuremberg or Nurenberg is an ugly town, which grows daily more and more deſerted: at the end of the thirteenth century it contained above 50,000 men, who were not above one fourth of the whole, whereas the whole population now ſcarce amounts to a ſixth part of the number. Many hundred houſes ſtand quite empty, and the reſt are tenanted only by ſin⯑gle families.

This biſhop is ſupreme head of the Imperial tribu⯑nal eſtabliſhed in the circle, and all the neighbouring ſtates appeal to his duchy court in matters of litiga⯑tion. This college of juſtice conſiſts of a ſpiritual re⯑gency to ſettle all epiſcopal differences; a vicarate which determines all diſputes relating to religious per⯑ſons and things, and a conſiſtoral, which has the management of matrimonial affairs; beſides theſe there are five other councils for temporalities. The epiſco⯑pal revenues are eſtimated at 800,000 Rheniſh florins, each florin 1s. 2d. Beſides this the biſhop holds the ſee of Bamberg, worth 70,000l. Engliſh for ever. There are five regiments of horſe and foot, which are maintained at the expence of the Biſhop, and are un⯑der the direction of his aulic council of war.

[342]The burgravate of Nurenberg is an independent ſtate. The city, which bears the ſame name, is a well built town, ſituate forty miles S. of Bamberg, and as many N. of Ingoldſtat, in the very heart of Germany, and centre of Europe. It contains, ſays Keyſler, 128 principal ſtreets, 400 lanes, and is adorned with twelve large and 133 ſmaller fountains, beſides 117 wells. There are ſixteen churches, forty-four religi⯑ous houſes, and ten markets, and it takes up three hours to walk round the city and its ſuburbs. The river Pegnitz runs through the town and divides it in equal parts, over which there are twelve bridges, ſix of ſtone, and ſix of wood; but the river is not navi⯑gable. The town is environed with double walls, and fortified with 365 towers, and a broad deep ditch in circuit about five miles. The number of houſes are about 8000, none of which are extraordinary build⯑ings.

This city ſtands in a plain, therefore enjoys a tem⯑perature of air and wholeſomeneſs of climate, as the extremes of the ſeaſons are thereby precluded from exerciſing their intenſeneſs.

In curioſities this city may compare with moſt cities in Germany. In the town-houſe are ſeveral valuable paintings, amongſt which are, one of the Virgin Mary, with the child Jeſus, by Cranach; and another of Adam and Eve, by Albert Durer, both of which are well worth the traveller's curious eye; each of them [343] are ſaid to be worth 50,000 dollars! But the former are only ſhewn to reigning princes, perſons deſcended from ancient noble houſes, and the ambaſſadors of emperors.

Nuremberg has had the honour for many centuries paſt to keep the Imperial crown, jewels, and relicks. In the latter of which is ſaid to be a tooth of St. John the Baptiſt, three links of the chain with which St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. John were bound; a piece of the manger wherein Chriſt lay when an infant, an arm of St. Ann; a piece of the table cloth uſed by Chriſt and his diſciples at the laſt ſupper, the ſpear with which his ſide was pierced, and five thorns of his crown! Such is the groſs ſuperſtition of this catholic repoſitory!

The new church and that of St. Sebbald are very well worth ſeeing. There is a fine library in the pre⯑dicant convent, containing near 60,000 volumes. The oldeſt of which is ſaid to be of 800 years ſtanding, and contains the primitive liturgy in Greek, finely illuminated.

The arſenal contains 274 large pieces of braſs can⯑non, and 18,000 ſtands of arms. The ſmall arms are very beautifully diſpoſed in the form of columns, ſhields, ſuns, trophies, and the arms of the city; cu⯑riouſly arranged, like thoſe in the tower of London.

[344]This opulent, Imperial city, keeps in conſtant pay ſeven companies of foot, 100 men each, with ſeveral troops of cavalry, and a large body of artillery. The obſervatory is in a caſtle, which ſtands on the top of a hill in the middle of the town, and well worth inſpec⯑tion. There are ſeveral elegant pieces of ſtatuary to be ſeen in various parts of the town; alſo the foun⯑tains are very remarkable for their order and con⯑ſtruction.

There are divers other curioſities and muſeums to be ſeen here, ſo that the philoſopher and virtuoſo will find very agreeable entertainment for ſeveral weeks, in exploring the numerous collections of art and nature.

But few things deſerve a traveller's notice more than a machine which is put in motion by water, where the ſilver ingots are drawn through a ſucceſſi⯑on of ſmall holes, gradually leſſening into the fineſt ſilver wire imaginable. Though it is obvious to the ſenſes, yet it is difficult to form an adequate idea of the incredible extenſion of metals, as it is here per⯑formed, until it is demonſtrated by computation. A cy⯑linder of ſilver weighing nine ounces, 12 penny-weights, and about twenty-two inches in length, in the hands of the wire-drawer becomes above nine thouſand times ſmaller in diameter, and is drawn out to a length of 224 Engliſh miles. But the ductility and extenſion of gold, by this method, is ſtill more wonderful. As [345] the ſilver cylinder of twenty-two inches in length, is gilt before it is drawn into wire, the thickneſs of the gold laid on it diminiſhes in proportion to the length, to which the cylinder or the wire is extended.

The gold at firſt is commonly but the ninetieth part of a line in thickneſs, and never exceeds an en⯑tire line, ſo that only ſix ounces, oftentimes two, and ſometimes but one ounce is uſed for gilding a cy⯑linder of twenty-two inches in length. If the gilding be computed at two ounces to the above-mentioned cylinder, it may be demonſtrated by the drawing of the ſilver, that the extenſion of the gold ſurface is ſo great, that a ſingle ounce of gold (1220 of which go to a cubic foot) is ſufficient to cover 1190 ſquare feet of ſilver. When the gold is thus extended, its thickneſs is but 75,000½ part of a line. But, as I obſerved before, the gilding of a cylinder of ſilver weighing nine ounces, 12 penny-weights, may be per⯑formed with one ounce of gold, it is evident that the latter may be drawn to that fineneſs, that it ſhall not exceed 525,025th part of a line. The conſideration of ſuch ductility muſt abſorb the human mind and elude its comprehenſion; eſpecially if we reflect, that even this amazing tenuity may be doubled to 1,050,080th part of a line, a line being but the 12th part of an inch. That the gold does not only com⯑municate its colour to the ſilver, but that its conſti⯑tuent parts remain in their natural arrangement, is proved by the following experiment. viz. If you lay [346] the gold wire in aquafortis, it will corrode the ſilver, but without damaging the gold in the leaſt, for ſuch wire or thread becomes a hollow tube, of a fineneſs beyond imagination.

Thoſe who are fond of mechanical arts and manu⯑factures, may here abundantly gratify their curioſity. It is a town filled with an abundance of the works of art and nature; and may, with juſtice, be eſteemed the firſt city in Europe for ſingular productions and curious ſubjects of inſpection.

Here is an anatomical theatre founded at the ex⯑pence of the city, in which are near one hundred ſke⯑letons of different animals, eſpecially of the winged tribe. The ſkeleton of a tortoiſe, that was diſſected here, ſhews that the outward ſhell makes a part of its body. The amphiſbaena is generally ſuppoſed to have two heads, but in the ſerpent preſerved here in ſpi⯑rits, which goes under that name, the head and tail are manifeſtly diſtinguiſhable. Dr. Treu's cabinet contains a collection of near 6000 plants, ſeveral pe⯑trifactions, all kinds of ſeeds, and many curious ſkeletons of leaves and fruit; Dr. Thomaſius's 800 vo⯑lumes of epiſtles of learned men, and a very extenſive collection of coins and medals. In a word, there are ſuch a number of private collections in this place, of natural and artificial curioſities, that it would be endleſs to enumerate them.

[347]The vocal muſicians and ſingers here who have a great affinity to the bardi and ſcaldi of the ancient Ger⯑mans, generally hold their meetings on feſtivals, and perform even in private houſes for money. Mu⯑ſic flouriſhes greatly at Nurenberg, where they have frequently their krantzel or concerts.

Converſation with the fair ſex is under much greater reſtraint at Nurenberg, than in moſt other large cities. A ſtranger is ſeldom allowed to ſee them in the aſſemblies, which they held among one ano⯑ther, and even the natives of the place are not ad⯑mitted, unleſs they are particular friends. And al⯑though a foreigner is recommended to a Nurem⯑berger in the ſtrongeſt manner, he will very ſeldom invite him to his houſe, if he has a wife or daughter, but is ſo miſtruſtful, that he rather chuſes to carry him to a tavern, and there do him the honour of a kauſche, that is, make him drunk.

The ſhops of this city are loaded with mer⯑chandize, and the commonalty are clean and chear⯑ful, though the ſtreets are narrow and dirty. A ſort of ſhabby finery is perceptable amongſt the qua⯑lity. Here there are eſtabliſhed ſumptuary laws, which diſtinguiſh men of rank by their dreſs, and pre⯑vent the exceſs which ruins ſo many other cities. The plate exhibits a gentleman, his lady, and a peaſant.

[348]When one conſiders impartially the merit of a rich ſuit of clothes in moſt places, the reſpect and the ſmiles of favour it procures, not to ſpeak of the envy and ſighs it occaſions, which is very often the principal charm to the wearer; one is obliged to con⯑feſs, that there is no need of an uncommon under⯑ſtanding to reſiſt the temptation of pleaſing friends and mortifying rivals; and that it is natural to the inexperienced to fall into errors, which betrays them into various ſpecies of folly and extreme poverty.

This town has the greateſt trade of any place on the continent, if we conſider that it has neither a navigable river or any water-carriage convenient. Their artificers in wood, iron, ſteel, ivory, alabaſter, &c. are ſaid to be inimitable, and afford their goods very cheap. It is from this part of Germany that thoſe toys, which we call Dutch toys are imported here. The annual profit to the city from thoſe toys, ex⯑ceed 17,500l. ſterling; in 1728, as many were ſold at Conſtantinople only, as amounted to 1983l. It is nothing but the genius and extraordinary diligence of the people, that procures this flouriſhing trade and plenty; for they live in a barren country, which affords ſcarce any merchandize to traffic with, but what receives the greateſt part of its value from their labour and ingenuity.

Nurenberg has long produced artiſts, who vie with the beſt Engliſh ones in making mathematical and [349] phyſical inſtruments. You meet no where out of England, with ſuch good manufactures in ſteel, iron, and copper, as in this place, and will any man con⯑demn their making of toys amidſt their more import⯑ant buſineſs, when it gives a uſeful and profitable em⯑ployment to their wives and children?

The great cauſe of the ruin of this town is the Auſtrians. The government is in the hands of twenty or thirty families, who very ill treat the reſt of the citizens. Every tradeſman here taxes himſelf, he gives in an account of his property, and if he miſ⯑tates it, is liable to have his books examined, ſo that the rich citizens have left the place, and taken refuge in the Auſtrian or Pruſſian territories.

The morals of the Nurenbergers are better and purer than thoſe of any other German city. The magiſtrate is particular anxious to put a ſtop to for⯑nication, and it is a fact, ſays Reiſbec, that the young men of the city, at one particular time, underwent a medical viſitation by ſome of the members of the ma⯑giſtracy, attended by phyſicians.

The eſtabliſhed religion here is the Lutheran; the Roman-catholics are only allowed to perform divine ſervice in a church of the Lutherans when they have done with it. The Calviniſts are not allowed any public place of worſhip, but are forced to go to church ſome diſtance out of town.

[350]The governors and principal magiſtrates of the city are elected out of the nobility and gentry. The com⯑mon-council conſiſts of forty-two members, of whom thirteen are burgo-maſters, and as many aldermen; the reſt are only ſtiled elders or ſages of the people. One burgo-maſter has the military, and one alderman the civil government of the city, for a month, and are then ſucceeded by two more; ſo that there is a burgo-maſter and an alderman for every month of the year, in whom the executive power is veſted in by turns.

The ordinary affairs of the government are debated in the common-council. The raiſing of forces or levying taxes are equally referred to a ſelect number of the common-council, ſtiled, by way of eminence, the eight. And, upon any extraordinary emergency, the principal burghers, elected out of every trade and profeſſion in the town, are ſummoned to the number of 400, who have alſo the power of electing the members of the other councils, and of the magi⯑ſtrates of the place, which are choſen annually.

The Nurenbergers have a country of about twen⯑ty miles in extent, and ſeveral towns and villages under their juriſdiction, which is a more conſiderable territory than any other Imperial city. The number of its ſubjects, in the country, is eſtimated at 400,000. Their villages are very pretty, though a great deal of ſand about them, and every thing beſides has a great degree of opulence in the farmers, who, as well as the town's people, remain faithful to their old dreſs.