FRUITS.

FRUITS contain ſugar, native vegetable acid, and mucilage; and their ſkins contain more or leſs an aſtringent juice; but ſo little of it, as not to render them unwholeſome. Nay, it is rather of ſervice, as it ſtimulates the ſtomach, cauſes it to contract ſtrongly, and thus prevents the fruit becoming acid and flatulent. The [25]ſugar, acids and mucilage are capable of fer⯑menting and being converted into blood. As ſugar affords more nouriſhment than any other ſubſtance, ſuch fruits as are ſweeteſt are the moſt wholeſome, viz. figs, grapes, &c.

Sugar is even more nutritive than flour, but it is ſeldom thoroughly digeſted; being ſo very ſoluble, it paſſes off from the ſtomach before any change can take place in it, but entangled in the cells of fruit, it is retained longer in the ſtomach, ſo as to yield ſome nouriſhment. So again, it is not apt to ferment in the ſto⯑mach alone, but mixed with the mucilage of fruits, fermentation readily takes place. Beſides, the acid of fruits helps to correct the putrecency of animal food.

The more diluted ſugar is, the more apt it is to ferment. Hence, watry or mucilaginous fruits, with little ſugar, as gooſberries, currants, cherries, &c. afford but little nouriſhment, but then they tend more to correct putreſcency.

Such as contain much ſugar and leſs water and mucilage, are not ſo apt to ferment, con⯑ſequently are not ſo proper to correct putrecency; but then they are more nutritive than ſuch as [26]contain more mucilage and water, and leſs ſugar. They afford ſo much nouriſhment, that in many countries they are uſed as food: thus, figs, dates, &c. in Portugal, are eaten as common food.

By evaporating the water from fruits, that is by drying them, we leſſen their diſpoſition to ferment, conſequently, we make them leſs flatulent and more nutritive.

The fermentation of ſome fruits in the ſto⯑mach, have, by letting looſe the air, ſometimes ſo diſtended it as to prove fatal; but we may correct this by adding ſugar to them or ſpices. However, ſuch as find they diſagree with them, if they value their health, ſhould refrain from eating them.

Fruits containing a great quantity of native vegetable acid, afford ſo little nouriſhment, (as lemons, oranges, &c.) that we ſeldom uſe them, but as a power acting on the ſtomach, to correct the bad properties of other food; as will be ſhewn hereafter.

Sour fruits, eaten in autumn, have been ac⯑cuſed of bringing on violent continued purgings, but without any reaſon. Indeed ſome four [27]fruits will act as purgatives, and the purging ſhall continue; but this muſt be owing to the ſtate of the body, prediſpoſed to purge; for we find, that when fruit purges a body, not prediſpoſed to purge, no purging continues when the fruit is evacuated. In hot ſummers, when there is great plenty of fruit, dyſenteries or continued purgings are apt to be general, but this is owing to the heat of the weather; for perſons will be afflicted with dyſentery, who eat no fruit. In ſhort, in ſuch diſorders they counteract; and thoſe who eat no fruit, are more apt to purge, than ſuch as do. Nay, if large quantities of fruit ſhould purge, it will not prove dan⯑gerous; it will act no further than as a doſe of phyſic.

There is one ſpecies of fruit very different from others, namely, cucumbers, melons, &c. This fruit, either ripe or unripe, contains a great deal of mucilage of a particular kind. Break them in two, and you will ſee much of this muci⯑lage ooze out, ſo as to glue the two parts firmly together. Now, this mucilage prevents the other parts of the fruit from fermenting, conſequently cauſes indigeſtion, and brings on in the ſtomach a ſenſe of weight, coldneſs and ſickneſs; for though the ſubſtance be ſoft, it will not readily [28]diſſolve. Cucumbers have been known to lie in the ſtomach three days undigeſted. We are led to uſe them in the ſummer as cooling food; but they are very injurious to the conſtitution. Beſides, they contain a quantity of eſſential oil, (which no vegetable ſubſtance does) very diſa⯑greeable and hurtful to a weak ſtomach. If they are eaten, therefore, it ſhould be with oil and pepper, as correctors of their noxious qualities. There is a natural bitter in the ſkin of the cucum⯑ber, which will ſerve to digeſt it, if eaten at the ſame time; but this ſhould only be done when the cucumber is young, as it afterwards becomes injurious to the ſtomach.

Having now treated of the properties and wholeſomeneſs of vegetable food, we will proceed next to animal; and herein we will firſt conſider the propriety of uſing it.

It has been given as a reaſon for not uſing animal food, that it was inconſiſtent with humanity. There can, however, be little diffi⯑culty about this, as there are a great num⯑ber of animals that muſt live on animal food wholly, not being able to eat vegetable. It was therefore the intention of the Creator, that ani⯑mal food ſhould be eaten. All that is to be con⯑ſidered, [29]is, whether man is that animal that is deſtined to live upon animal food. The Pythagorean doctrine, heightened by ſuperſti⯑tion, has been a means of making numbers of people, viz. the whole of the Gentoos, the whole empire of Hindoſtan, and part of China, larger together than France, Spain, Italy, and Eng⯑land, wholly abſtain from meat.

It is alſo to be obſerved, that the race of parti⯑cular animals is ſeldom diminiſhed, tho' we deſtroy many of them; the increaſe of animals being much below what might be propagated. One man and one woman might, in the nature of things, have thirty children; but, in general, they may have ten, five boys and five girls. At every generation, then, were men propagated to the utmoſt, they could increaſe in number five times; ſo that, in a very ſhort time, a nation muſt become exceedingly populous. It is the difficulty of procuring food, and obtaining the neceſſaries and conveniencies of life that prevents this propagation: A proof of the ſuperintendency of Providence. Now as it is in man, ſo is it in other animals. It is poſſible for a ſow to bring forth ten pigs at every litter, ſo that were this ſpecies propagated to the utmoſt, in a few years, the increaſe would be prodigious. Ten⯑fold [30]in one year, and a thouſand-fold in ten years. Here alſo the difficulty of obtaining food prevents increaſe; there being always a deſire of propa⯑gation between the ſexes.

This is more evident, if we obſerve the great increaſe of rats in a granary, where they multiply, in proportion to the quantity of corn there lodged.

Theſe things conſidered, we may readily ſee, that in deſtroying annually a number of any one ſpecies of animals, ſo far from diminiſhing that ſpecies, we ſhall rather increaſe it, as in ſuch a caſe, we ſhall be anxious ſo to do. So, by ſending a number of inhabitants out of a country, we do not depopulate that country, unleſs we exceed a certain bounds. Animals then living on one another, is the means of increaſing animal life conſiderably: there can be, therefore, no reaſon why animal-food ſhould not be uſed. Let us examine, then, whether this food be proper.

Moſt quadrupeds are confined naturally to par⯑ticular climates, and moſt of them, in their or⯑gans of digeſtion, fitted for animal and vegetable food. Some have it only in their power to obtain animal food, and ſome only vegetable; but man [31]ſeems deſtined to cover the whole face of the earth; no climate being yet diſcovered unfit for his reſidence. His powers are fitted for animal as well as vegetable food, and his digeſtive organs equally adapted to both. And, if we conſider mankind in their moſt ſimple ſtate, where they are moſt guided by inſtinct, we find as many ſhepherds and hunters living on animal food, as huſbandmen living on vegetable.

Animals deſtined to live on animal food, have their inteſtinal canal ſhorter than ſuch as live on vegetable food. That is (in order to be under⯑ſtood by ſuch as are unacquainted with phyſical terms) have leſs length of gut. And as longer retention in the ſtomach is required for animal food than for vegetable, and man's digeſtive or⯑gans are adapted to this, it appears that man is deſtined to live equally on animal food, as vege⯑table. Further, the teeth of man are a medium between the teeth of carnivorous animals, and and thoſe of grameniverous. Beſides, his health is better ſupported by a mixture of the two, than it would be, was he to live upon one. The Lap⯑landers, indeed, live nine months on rein-deer, and the Greenlander lives upon fiſh: it is poſſi⯑ble, therefore, to live on animal food alone. How⯑ever, [32]were we obliged to live upon one ſort wholly, it would be beſt to live on vegetable; for animal food alone, would frequently bring on diſeaſes; a mixture therefore is beſt. In ſhort, man is endowed with greater variety in his ſyſtem and conſtitution than any other animal, he being deſtined to live in all parts of the earth.

Let us next conſider the differences between animal and vegetable food. Now, as we ſaid before, fermentation which takes place in food, within the ſtomach, is different from that which takes place out of it. If the ſtomach then be weak, ſo as not to bring on fermentation na⯑tural to it, the fermentation that would take place out of the ſtomach, will take place in it. Hence it is, that in weak ſtomachs, food turns acid and putrid. This firſt occaſions heart-burn, a ſure ſign of a weak ſtomach; and if the putre⯑faction ſhould run to a great height, the conſe⯑quence is ſickneſs, vomiting, purging, and ſome⯑times fever. And ſhould a ſmall quantity of ſuch putrified matter, as was obſerved before, be ab⯑ſorbed by the veſſels, in its paſſage through the body, it will depreſs the ſtrength, and, without a timely remedy, cauſe a general putrefaction of the fluids through the whole ſyſtem. Thus the [33]miſchiefs of animal food, putrifying, are greater and more dangerous than ſuch as ariſe from undigeſted vegetable food, as this turns ſour only.

Another difference is this. Vegetable food, during digeſtion, ſtimulates leſs. When the ſto⯑mach is diſtended with food, the whole ſyſtem, during digeſtion, is more or leſs ſtimulated; but more ſo with animal food than with vegetable. Now, the more our ſyſtem is ſtimulated, the quicker is the circulation and the more feveriſh we become.

As animal food fills the blood-veſſels fuller with blood than vegetable, it naturally encreaſes our muſcular ſtrength; but then it loads the brain, (every part being fuller of blood in proportion) and occaſions heavineſs and ſtupor: whereas vegetable food, from not loading the ſyſtem with blood, rather diminiſhes muſcular ſtrength, but enables the mind to act with greater force. Ve⯑getable food, therefore, is fitter to give clearneſs of ideas; and animal food is beſt adapted to labour. A phyſical demonſtration might be given of this; but to a general reader it would be idle. However, habit has a great effect in this caſe. Man accuſtomed to labour, and to eat ve⯑getable [34]food, (as are the porters of Conſtantino⯑ple) may be capable of great muſcular exertion; but this does not prove the power of vegetable food over animal. So a horſe fed on graſs, and kept in exerciſe, will be better able to work, than one fed on hay and corn for twelve months toge⯑ther, without exerciſe: but this neither is any proof.

The next thing to be conſidered is, a maxim generally laid down by all authors on this ſubject; namely, that ſimplicity of food is more conducive to health than a variety: but experience teaches us the contrary. Milk, as we before obſerved, which affords great nouriſhment, is a mixture of three nutritive ſubſtances; and we may venture to affirm, that if an alderman was to eat as much of beef-ſtakes, as he does of other things at a city-feaſt, he would bring on ſickneſs and vomit⯑ing. Put variety of grain before a hen, and ſhe will eat of that ſhe likes beſt; but before the day is out, ſhe will eat of the other. Inſtinct leads her to this, as moſt conducive to her health.

Almoſt all food contains oil, and the ſtomach can better bear a variety of this oil, than a quan⯑tity of one particular ſort. Beſides, animal and [35]vegetable food correct the ill qualities of one another. Animal food corrects the flatulency of vegetable; and vegetable food, the putreſcency of animal. Indeed, a mixture of ſome foods will diſagree, as fiſh and milk; fiſh coagulating milk too firmly for eaſy digeſtion; but there is no rule without an exception.

The miſchief of variety of food is its tempt⯑ing us to eat too much: but if we avoid eating too much, variety is beſt, provided that variety conſiſts of things eaſy of digeſtion.

But the moſt ſingular and curious circumſtance, with reſpect to food, is this. The powers of di⯑geſtion are adapted to the want of blood in the blood-veſſels. If they are not ſufficiently full for the purpoſes of health, the appetite is great, digeſtion is ſtrong, and much blood is formed; but if they are full enough, there is no appetite, digeſtion is weak, and no blood is formed. For, let a man ſwallow as much food as he can, without an appe⯑tite, though he is able to digeſt it, it will not be converted into blood. So watchful is Nature of her health.

Eating too much food, in general, for a length of time does harm. It weakens the organs of [36]digeſtion, debilitates the conſtitution, and wears it out. Hence ariſe gout, apoplexy, and all the diſeaſes attendant on old age. In diſeaſe, men, eating too much, never eſcape with impunity.

We ſhall now proceed to the properties of the different kinds of animal food. There are two ſubſtances in meat capable of nouriſhing; muci⯑lage and expreſſed oil.

Animal mucilages differ much from one ano⯑ther; but conſidered as food, they do not. The only difference of conſequence is, as far as de⯑pends upon their texture. When the fibres of an animal are large, they are not eaſily diſſolved; of courſe, they are difficult of digeſtion. Beef is, on this account, more difficult of digeſtion than mutton; the fibres of the one being larger than thoſe of the other. On the ſame principles, when food is coagulated firmly, it is alſo difficult of digeſtion. The firmer the coagulum, that is, the leſs fluid it contains, the more difficult it will be of digeſtion. Animal food, whoſe fibres have but little fluid between them; that is, dry meat, is more indigeſtible than moiſt. Thus, lean ani⯑mals are harder of digeſtion than fat ones; and the lean part of fat meat is eaſier of digeſtion than the lean part of lean meat. By the ſame way of [37]reaſoning, meat roaſted or boiled a great deal, is not ſo digeſtible as when roaſted or boiled but little; for when the fluids are expelled by heat, the fibres approach cloſer to each other, and, when in the ſtomach, will not admit the juice of the ſtomach ſo readily to penetrate it, conſe⯑quently, fermentation will not take place ſo ſoon.

The readier animal food diſſolves in water, the more digeſtible it is. A flounder boiled in an equal quantity of water, is ſooner diſſolved than mutton; therefore flounders are eaſier of digeſtion than mutton; the juice of the ſtomach being little elſe than warm water, helped by fermenta⯑tion. But fiſh, though readily ſoluble in water, has a property in it that renders it indigeſtible, which is a certain glarinels or viſcidity; but when the ſtomach is ſtrong enough to digeſt it, it is eaſier of digeſtion than either fleſh or fowl.

Meat apt to putrify, is ſooner digeſted, than ſuch as is not. Pidgeon will putrify ſooner than duck: of courſe, pidgeon is eaſier of digeſtion than duck. Now, as the fluids in animal food tend to haſten putrefaction; by depriving it of thoſe fluids, by long boiling or roaſting, we ren⯑der it harder of digeſtion. By boiling meat till [38]it be free from gravy, we can keep it from cor⯑rupting for ſix months. A further proof that meat much dreſſed, is leſs wholeſome than ſuch as is little dreſſed. Such meats, however, as putrify the ſooneſt, are injurious to weak ſto⯑machs, as this putreſcency ſtimulates during the time of digeſtion.

It is with a view of rendering meat eaſier of digeſtion, that we keep it ſome time after it is killed before we eat it. As ſoon as meat is killed, it begins to putrify; and putrefaction is the moſt effectual breaker down of animal ſub⯑ſtance, and a great aſſiſtant to ſolution, which is the immediate forerunner of digeſtion. But the length of time meat ought to be kept, ſhould be proportioned to its tendency to putrify, and the heat of the weather. It is eaten, for example, much ſooner in ſummer than in winter.

But the property in which meats differ moſt, is their viſcidity or glarineſs. Such as are viſcid, adhere to the ſides of the ſtomach, and ſtimulate much. In quadrupeds, young animals have this property, ſuch as veal, pig, fawn, and lamb; but in a ſmaller degree. Young birds have the ſame bad property, and all fiſh, in a great degree; par⯑ticularly [39]ſhell-fiſh, which on this account, have often proved poiſonous and fatal to many. When theſe have proved fatal, it has been aſcribed to the copper veſſel in which they were dreſſed; but a little obſervation would ſhew the contrary. When perſons loſe their lives by the ill effects of copper; ſickneſs, vomiting, and purging take place: but when poiſoned by ſhell-fiſh, the head ſwells, the breaſt is oppreſſed, and ſtupor is the conſequence.

Animal food diſſolved in water, forms a gela⯑tinous ſolution or jelly, which is of a viſcid na⯑ture, and in ſome degree, produces the ſame ef⯑fect as viſcid foods. It ſtimulates, but does not yield much nouriſhment. At the ſame time, it is difficult of digeſtion, and of courſe, improper to be taken by diſeaſed or weak ſtomachs. Jellies, though long preſcribed to ſtrengthen the ſyſtem after a fever, have lately been found prejudicial, and the uſe of them are therefore exploded.

Eſſential oils, inherent in ſome animal food, render it difficult of digeſtion. The eſſential oils of vegetables are often agreeable to the ſtomach, and ſtimulate it ſo as to forward digeſtion; but thoſe of animal food, though agreeable to the taſte, are injurious. Pork, geeſe, ducks, ſalmon, [40]&c. contain much of this oil; and are of courſe, high-flavoured. They may be agreeable to the taſte of ſtrong ſtomachs; but if eaten in too great quantities, or if the ſtomach be too weak, they will diſagree with it, and have the ſame effect with viſcidity; that is, they will ſtimulate the ſyſtem, and ſometimes bring on a fever. Animal food then, that is viſcid, that contains much eſ⯑ſential oil, or will not readily diſſolve, is apt to re⯑main too long in the ſtomach, and do harm. But that which will readily putrify and diſſolve, is re⯑tained but a ſhort time in the ſtomach; and is, of courſe, eaſily digeſted: for digeſtion depending on the contraction of the ſtomach, if the ſtomach be ſo diſordered as to loſe any of its contractile powers, either by the oil or viſcidity of the food, the food will be retained too long in it.

We ſeldom uſe animal food without ſome pre⯑paration. Thoſe preparations are either expoſing them to ſuch heat as will coagulate the ſolids and fluids, or after ſuch coagulation, diſſolving them in water. By coagulating any animal ſolid, we take off that viſcidity which almoſt all have when raw, and the ſtomach conſequently bears it much better. Thus we can digeſt twice the quantity of oyſters roaſted, that we can raw.

[41]In coagulating animal ſubſtances by heat, we often expoſe them to great fire, as in roaſting; which coagulates the outer parts, forming a cruſt, as it were, round the inward fluids, and retaining them. This gives them an empyreumatic oil, offenſive to the ſmell. In boiling, we avoid this empyreumatic, but then we take out the eſſential oil. In frying, we retain both oils, ſo that fried meat is more difficult of digeſtion than either roaſted or boiled.

Chicken, partridges, veal, &c. are more whole⯑ſome when roaſted, than boiled. Mutton, beef, pork, &c. are eaſier digeſted when boiled.

All quadrupeds that feed on vegetables are uſed, ſomewhere or other, for food; ſuch as the ox, the ſheep, the deer, the goat, the hog, the hare, &c. In ſome countries, horſes are eaten; in others, ſquirrels, rats, and mice. Animals that live on animal food alone, are ſeldom eaten; as the lion, the cat, the tyger, &c. Few make uſe of dogs, or any animals of that claſs; thoſe who do, feed them on vegetables. Such animals as live on animal food alone, being, on account of their putreſcency, and of the great quantity of eſſential oil contained in them, both diſagreeable o [...] the ſtomach, and difficult of digeſtion.

[42]Birds alſo are made uſe of for food, except birds of prey; that is, ſuch as live on other birds; and we except them for the ſame reaſons that we do beaſts of prey. We prefer ſuch as live on inſects to ſuch as feed on fiſh, becauſe they are tenderer; ſuch as live on fiſh acquiring a tough⯑neſs.

All fiſh have been eaten, and all ſhell-fiſh which have ſufficient muſcular fleſh to render them worth eating.

Thoſe birds that are not very putreſcent in their nature, and are moſt free from eſſential oil, are the eaſieſt of digeſtion. As for example, moor-game, poultry, partridges, pheaſants, and of quadrupeds, the deer, the ſheep, the ox, &c. The older animals of this claſs are eaſier of digeſtion than the young ones. Mutton, for in⯑ſtance, is eaſier of digeſtion than lamb; beef than veal; veniſon than fawn; and that on ac⯑count of the viſcidity of the fleſh of young ani⯑mals. Fiſh is more difficult of digeſtion than fleſh, eſpecially in weak ſtomachs. And of fiſh, thoſe that have leaſt flavour, that is, ſuch as have leaſt eſſential oil in them, are white, and have ſome degree of firmneſs, will digeſt much ſooner than [43]ſuch as are of ſtronger flavour. Flounders, whitings, &c. are eaſier of digeſtion than ſalmon, foals, &c.

But ſtill, quadrupeds afford more nouriſhment than either birds or fiſh; and thoſe animals of ſtronger flavour, viz. pork, geeſe, duck, ſalmon, &c. afford more nouriſhment and are fitter for ſuch as labour or take a great deal of exerciſe, than animals of the ſame claſs, that are eaſier of digeſtion.

Now, to correct the ill qualities of the different kind of food, and to aſſiſt digeſtion, we make uſe of a variety of things, ſuch as are called the decoraments of the table; which in themſelves af⯑ford little or no nouriſhment. Theſe are ſpices, acids, ſalt, oil, and ſugar.

Spices act as ſtimulants. It muſt here be re⯑collected, that digeſtion depends upon the con⯑tracting power of the ſtomach, it being that which prevents the food turning acid or putrid. Now, if the action of the ſtomach be weak, that is, not ſufficiently powerful, food will not be pro⯑perly digeſted.

Spices then are powerful ſtimulants, that is, they encreaſe the action of the ſtomach, and are [44]agreeable to it; ſuch as the aromatic ſpices, viz. cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, mace, pimento, &c. which are the produce of the warmer climates; but they are, at the ſame time, inflammatory, tending to encreaſe the circulation of the blood, and bring on fever. We uſe muſtard, onions, horſe-raddiſh, &c. for the ſame purpoſe. Theſe ſtimulate univerſally, but are not inflammatory; becauſe their powers do not continue long; where⯑as ſpices ſtimulate for a conſiderable length of time. Mint, thyme, ſage, &c. parſley, fennel, cele⯑ry, &c. are ſtimulants, but not ſo powerful as muſtard, onions, &c. nor are they inflammatory.

Spices ſeem adapted to different climates, and different ſtomachs. In warm climates, and weak ſtomachs, ſpices are more wholeſome than in colder climates, and ſtronger ſtomachs. In warm climates, the heat of the atmoſphere upon the ſkin keeps up conſtant great circulation there. The internal blood-veſſels are, of courſe, empty, and the interior parts conſequently weaker, viz. the ſtomach, &c. It requires therefore more pow⯑erful ſtimulants to aſſiſt digeſtion, and the natural weakneſs of the ſtomach prevents their inflamma⯑tory power. Hence, we may obſerve, that ſpices are more wholeſome in ſummer than in winter; and that perſons of luxurious life, who live with⯑out exerciſe, whoſe ſtomachs are, of courſe, weak⯑ened [45]and impaired, may eat them with greater ſafety than ſuch as are ſtrong, laborious, and healthful.

In colder climates, and with temperate livers, the ſtomach is naturally ſtrong: very little ſtimu⯑lants, therefore, are required. Inflammatory ones muſt, of courſe, do miſchief. If any, then, are uſed, it ſhould be thoſe of the ſecond claſs, viz. muſtard, onions, horſe-raddiſh, &c. Nature ſeems here to have provided for herſelf; for we find ſpices only in warm countries: none grow natu⯑rally in cold ones. But the ſecond claſs are prin⯑cipally natives of cold climates. If any of the ſpices are made to grow in a cold climate, part of their ſtimulus is loſt; and if the ſecond claſs of ſtimulants are made to grow in a warm climate, it is the ſame. Pepper grown here loſes its ſtimulating powers; and an onion grown in Spain, is not ſo ſtrong as one, the produce of England. They ſeem deſtined then for particular climates. In hot countries, therefore, ſpices are neceſſary; but in colder ones, they are prejudicial. If the ſtomach then be weak, which, in time, will diſor⯑der the ſyſtem, it may be proper, to uſe ſpices, but, if not weak, on no account to uſe them; for they have ſometimes done ſo much harm, as to⯑tally to deſtroy digeſtion, unleſs great quantities have been conſtantly thrown in with the food.

[46]A little ſpice, uſed with the more flatulent vege⯑tables, is frequently ſerviceable, as by encreaſing the action of the ſtomach, it brings on digeſtion, before that fermentation takes place, which in weak ſtomachs, would be attended with extrica⯑tion of air. Thus, we uſe pepper with greens, peas, &c. to correct what is called their windi⯑neſs; and we uſe pepper with broth, to coagulate the fluid more firmly, and correct its putre⯑ſcency, both which are brought about by the action of the ſtomach. Lemon-juice, barley, &c. is often added to both, for the ſame purpoſe. So we eat muſtard with ſalted pork and beef, ſalted fiſh, &c. in order to aſſiſt digeſtion, by encreaſing the action of the ſtomach; ſalted proviſions being being more difficult of digeſtion than ſuch as are freſh.

The ſecond claſs of ſubſtances to aſſiſt digeſtion are acids. None but the native vegetable acid, viz. the juice of four fruits, is capable of afford⯑ing nouriſhment; nor would this, if pure; it is owing to the mucilage mixed with it, that it nouriſhes. Acids then offiſt digeſtion merely.

Acids produce many effects. In the firſt place, they ſtimulate the glands of the ſtomach, creating by their ſtimulus that ſenſation we call [47]hunger. Digeſtion being conſiderably affected by the appetite; if there is no appetite, though the ſtomach be ſtrong, there will be no digeſtion We frequently then employ acids, a little before meals, to create an appetite. Thus, in hot countries, where owing to an encreaſed circulation of the ſkin, the internal circulation is diminiſhed, and, of courſe, the ſtomach weakened, the in⯑habitants accuſtom themſelves to the drinking of beverage or lemonade before dinner, to encreaſe their appetite.

Acids alſo promote ſecretion of the glands of the ſtomach, ſo as to ſupply the food with a watery menſtruum; that is, fluid proper and ſufficient to promote fermentation.

They act alſo as ſedatives or quieters of the reſt of the ſyſtem, taking off that ſtimulus occa⯑ſioned by digeſtion. Hence they are beneficial in warm climates, and in weather where the heat naturally ſtimulates the ſyſtem; and that ſtimulus is liable to be encreaſed by digeſtion. Hence, as was ſaid before, fruit is exceeding wholeſome in the ſummer, and at certain times, if taken in moderate quantities.

Acids tend likewiſe to coagulate animal ſolids, [48]and fluids; and, aſſiſted by the coagulating fluids of the ſtomach, they take off the viſcidity of food. Thus we uſe lemon or vinegar with fiſh, particu⯑larly ſhell-fiſh. Indeed, ſhell-fiſh ſhould never be eaten without ſome acid; they being, as was be⯑fore obſerved, in their nature ſo remarkably viſcid, and, of courſe, ſo prejudicial to the conſtitution. It is for the ſame reaſon, that we uſe acids with veal, lamb, and all young animals; namely, to correct their viſcidity. Of all acids, vinegar, provided we attend to its quality, is the ſafeſt.

Acids check alſo vinous and acetous fermenta⯑tion; that is, ſuch fermentation as ſhould by no means take place in the ſtomach. It is for this reaſon we uſe them with ſubſtances of looſe tex⯑ture, that are apt to turn ſour in the ſtomach, and become flatulent or windy. Thus we eat vinegar with ſallad, and greens of all ſorts. So, in all weak ſtomachs, where food is apt to turn ſour, and cauſe heart-burn, the uſe of acids has been found to correct and take it off. It is on this account, that fruit has been introduced after meals. Acids then are uſeful for many purpoſes in digeſtion; but taken in too great quantities, they are hurt⯑ful, as they will produce a diſpoſition to flatu⯑lency, pain, and weakneſs, in the ſtomach and [49]bowels, which is afterwards cured with dif⯑ficulty.

The next ſubſtance, in general uſe with food, is ſalt, which affords no kind of nouriſhment; neither will it digeſt, but paſſes through the body without any change. It is, however, univerſally uſed where it can be got; nay, all animals prefer food that is ſaltiſh to ſuch as is not. This gene⯑ral inſtinct, we ſhould ſuppoſe, would not be given, but to ſome purpoſe; yet it is difficult to ſay of what uſe ſalt is, in digeſtion. It ſtimulates the glands of the ſtomach, and promotes ſecretion of the watery menſtruum; but of what other uſe it is, we know not.

We often preſerve food with ſalt; and thus preſerved, it is conſiderably more difficult of di⯑geſtion. The fibres are hardened, they are not ſo readily diſſolved, and they go through the proper fermentation of the ſtomach with difficulty. Thus it is, that we cannot live ſo long on ſalted proviſion as on freſh; for, as was before obſerved, the ſalt does not penetrate thoroughly into all parts of the meat; therefore, when in the ſto⯑mach, before fermentation takes place in the outer parts, the inner will putrify, and, by infecting the fluids of the body, bring on the ſcurvy, as we ſee [50]it does, in perſons upon a long voyage. And yet ſalt may be uſed, in the greateſt quantity, ſo as to prevent putrefaction of food, without rendering it totally unfit for nouriſhment.

Oil is another ſubſtance that may be uſed to help digeſtion, it taking off the viſcidity of food. Hence it is, that we eat ſalad, with which oil has been mixed, with the meat of young animals, as with veal, lamb, &c. and (with ſome kinds of fiſh) which, from its glarineſs, tends much to diſturb digeſtion. Oil alſo takes off the diſpoſition in looſe vegetables to ferment improperly, and thus prevents flatulency. It is for this reaſon, we uſe it with ſallads, greens, &c. But oil, in weak ſtomachs diſpoſed to acidity, is apt to produce ſourneſs in the ſtomach, and bring on heart-burn, ſickneſs, vomiting, and purging. Why it ſhould have theſe contrary effects, we cannot ſay; but ex⯑perience ſhews it to be true.

Sugar is another aſſiſtant of digeſtion, by pre⯑venting the bad effects of ſome food, and affords conſiderable nouriſhment in itſelf. A diluted ſo⯑lution ferments more readily than a more cen⯑trated one; that is, the more water you put to ſugar, provided you exceed not certain bounds, the more readily it ferments. Sugar mixed with [51]a certain quantity of water, preſently becomes vi⯑negar. Now, the looſer vegetables and fruits, ſuch as ſalad, currants, cherries, &c. contain in them a more diluted ſolution of ſugar than the firmer vegetables, or the ſweeter fruits. It is on this account, that we frequently eat ſugar with them. Another reaſon why we eat ſugar with ſuch vegetables, is to take off the aceſency and fla⯑tulency which they are apt to run ſoon into, by rendering them more difficult to ferment. Sugar alſo corrects the putreſcency of animal food; but not ſo much as vegetables do. For this purpoſe, it was much uſed in England before kitchen⯑gardens became general.

It is not above 150 years ſince greens, and other vegetables were imported from Holland, (a kitchen-garden being then a great curioſity.) Salted meat at that time, was much eaten; and the ſea-ſcurvy very general. Perſons were then accuſtomed to eat ſugared mutton and ſu⯑gared ham. At preſent, the cuſtom is not ſo much aboliſhed, but that we eat ſweet ſauces with various kinds of food.

Sugar has been ſaid to ſpoil the teeth. This obſervation may, in ſome caſes, be juſt; as, where the teeth may have a more than ordinary degree [52]of ſenſibility; or it may, perhaps, by ſticking about them, and turning acid, corrode them: but faults of this kind are oftener imputed to it than it deſerves. The finer the ſugar, the purer and leſs noxious it is. Preſerves are far from unwhole⯑ſome,—and pickles may be conſidered as ſpunges filled with vinegar.

Having thus entered into the ſeveral properties of eatables, let us now proceed to drinks.

Water is neceſſary to digeſtion and nouriſh⯑ment. For there are ſalts conſtantly forming in the blood, beſides ſuch as are thrown into it by the ſtomach: whoever has accidentally taſted their own blood, will be convinced of this, by its ſaline taſte. There is always alſo, a ſmall part of the blood, in ſome degree, putrifying. Now, if theſe ſalts and this putreſcency were accumu⯑lated to any great degree, it would prove fatal. Water, then, is neceſſary to waſh away theſe ſalts, and this putreſcency. Beſides, the ſaliva and natural juice of the ſtomach, is not ſufficient of themſelves to diſſolve the aliment, and carry on fermentation. Water then is a great aſſiſtant. But pure water is not ſo proper for either of theſe purpoſes; for water will run off too ſoon; that is, it will not remain mixed with the food long [53]enough to go through fermentation with it; nei⯑ther will it alone carry off the putreſcent or ſaline ſubſtance in the blood. Mixing mucilaginous matter with it, as in wine, beer, cyder, &c. enables it to anſwer theſe purpoſes. Thus, we ſee the ſaliva or ſpittle which Nature provides, is a viſcid fluid, or a mucilaginous one.

Wine, being in a ſtate of fermentation itſelf, tends to forward fermentation in the ſtomach. For any ſubſtance going through one fermenta⯑tion, generally forwards fermentation in another. Accordingly we find perſons accuſtomed to drink weak wine, cannot digeſt their food with water alone, but will have eruptions on the ſkin during the time that their meat is in their ſtomach. Beſides, wine is as neceſſary to a weak ſtomach, as ſpices; for if it be not too ſtrong, nor taken in too great quantities, it ſtimulates the ſtomach, makes it contract freer, and thus forwards digeſ⯑tion. In warm climates, the inhabitants could not pre⯑ſerve their health without it; the heat of the wea⯑ther keeping up ſuch a circulation of the blood on the ſurface of the body, as to weaken the internal parts, and render digeſtion difficult. Accordingly we find, that Nature has provided them amply with the means of procuring wine. Hence it [54]follows, that a glaſs of wine, occaſionally taken in ſummer, is more beneficial than one drank in winter; as the one helps digeſtion, while the other tends to deſtroy it.

Was man to live the life of a ſavage, water would be a ſufficient drink; as eating only a ſmall quantity, and uſing great exerciſe, his digeſtive organs would be much ſtronger, and ſufficient for digeſtion without any other aſſiſtance: but accor⯑ding to his preſent method of living, eating daily too much, and taking little exerciſe, he requires wine. However, the wine ſhould be diluted with water; for was it to intoxicate to any degree, it would overthrow the deſign for which it was taken, prevent the ſtomach from eating ſuffici⯑ently, and interrupt digeſtion going on. By wine here, we mean all vinous liquors, as wine, cyder, ale, ſmall beer, &c.

If we drink pure water, it will find its way out of the body by urine or ſweat, without carrying any of the ſaline, or putreſcent parts of the blood with it; but if we uſe mucilaginous fluids, as wine, beer, &c. they remain ſome time in the blood, mix with the ſaline and putreſcent ſubſtances of it, and gradually carry them off. Water then, is [55]the neceſſary drink, but it is much helped by brewing; that is, wine, beer, &c. if moderately taken, as we have mentioned, is the beſt liquor we can uſe.

Having ſaid ſo much upon the nature of di⯑geſtion, and the property of food in general, let us run over them again a little more particularly; and firſt, let us ſpeak of fruits.

Stone-fruits, in general, are of a ſoft lax tex⯑ture, and their juices dilute; by which means, they are eaſily diſſolved in the ſtomach. It is for this reaſon, they are apt to be eaten in large quan⯑tities. Hence, as they are more liable to fermen⯑tation than any other, and produce a copious acid, they are apt to irritate the inteſtines, and bring on purging and vomiting. Apricots and peaches are leſs noxious than either the cherry or the plumb, being ſweeter and richer: the later fruit is, in general, the richeſt.

Apples and pears being of a firmer texture, and containing a leſs active acid, are not ſo liable to a noxious fermentation as the ſtone-fruits, and will continue longer in the ſtomach; and of theſe, pears are more wholeſome than apples; for the pear being ſpecifically heavier than water, will [56]ſink to the bottom of the ſtomach, and be ſooner digeſted; while apples, ſwimming near the top, will elude the action of the inteſtines, and by irritating the left orifice of the ſtomach, will often produce uneaſy ſymptoms.

Strawberries and raſberries are of a very tender texture; therefore eaſily diſſolved, paſſing off before a very active fermentation can take place, which is likewiſe prevented by their ſweetneſs. On all theſe accounts, they are very innocent.

Currants are an acid fruit; have very little ſweetneſs; of courſe, very little nouriſhment, and are liable to all the bad qualities of ſtone-fruits.

Gooſberries are much ſweeter, more nouriſh⯑ing, and more innocent; and without the huſks, are very eaſily digeſted; and on account of their ſweetneſs, leſs ſubject to active fermentation.

Grapes are a richer fruit, containing a great quantity of ſugar, on which account they are more nutritive than any we have mentioned; and if eaten when perfectly ripe, and in modera⯑tion, are innocent.

[57]When we apply heat to theſe fruits; that is, when we bake or boil them, we change their qualities, diſſipate their active acid, and diſpoſe them leſs to ferment. Hence, univerſally, baked or boiled fruits are ſafer than freſh. It is to de⯑ſtroy their diſpoſition to fermentation, that we frequently eat them with milk or cream, whoſe oily nature produces that effect. Wine is alſo uſed to obviate the bad effects of fruit; but this depends upon its ſpirituous part, and therefore pure ſpirit, were it not otherwiſe noxious, would be moſt eligible. If wine be uſed, it ſhould be ſtrong and mellow. Another method of uſing them, is with ſugar. This ſurely renders fruit more nutritive; and to ſour fruits, muſt be a ju⯑dicious addition. Sometimes we uſe oily matters; as butter in apple-pye. This, from its antifer⯑mentative quality, is a proper addition; but in weak ſtomachs, is apt to produce heart-burn, &c. It is ſafer to eat the mild fruit, before meals; the the ſour fruits, after.

We come next to the herbs. Beet and ſpin⯑nage are watery and inſipid; they contain but little ſugar or mucilaginous matter; and, of courſe, afford but little nouriſhment. On account of their little acidity and looſe texture, they are leſs flatulent than ſome of the other herbs.

[58]Dandelion, endive, lettuce, are all of them milky plants; and it is almoſt a univerſal rule, that thoſe which afford a milky juice, are remarkably acrid, and many of them poiſonous; but theſe I have mentioned have been excepted; however, they are all opiates, in ſome meaſure, when old; for this reaſon, we only uſe them when very young, and we blanch them, to free them of their acri⯑mony, which is done by tying them up, and thus depriving them of light. They are flatulent; and, as ſuch, ſhould be never eaten without pepper, or ſomething to anſwer the ſame pur⯑poſe.

Cellery contains a poiſonous acrimony; on which account, it is blanched for uſe, though it is never wholly deprived of its acrimony in this way; boiling does it more effectually, and gives it a mucilaginous ſweetneſs; conſequently, it is moſt wholeſome in broths, and that in the ſum⯑mer, when the ſtomach can bear ſtimulating moſt.

Aſparagus is only wholeſome when in an inter⯑mediate ſtate, between root and plant; when old, it is remarkably acrid; but when young, it is ſweet and mucilaginous.

[59]Artichokes, if young and boiled, are of a tender texture, eaſily digeſted, and not flatulent. They are ſweet, and, of courſe, remarkably nu⯑tritious.

Muſhrooms are very nutritive, and much a kin to animal food; that is, they reſemble meat in their properties; and as ſuch, may be eaten by ſtrong perſons in conſiderable quantity. The morelle and truſle are of this kind; but on ac⯑count of their ſtimulating powers, are more uſed as a faſhionable ornament to our diſhes, than as any proper food.

The next to be conſidered, are our eſculent roots. The raddiſh, as being ſo acrid, is uſed only as ſallad, or after meals to help digeſtion. It is moſt wholeſome when ſcraped. The turnep is, at beſt, when deprived of its acrid ſkin, but a watery weak nutriment, very flatulent, or windy; and, if eaten in great quantities, will purge.

The carrot and parſnip, from the ſweet muci⯑laginous matter contained in them, are very nou⯑riſhing; but the carrot more than the parſnip, as containing the greateſt quantity of the two.

[60]The leek, the onion, and the garlic, are in their recent ſtate, acrid, but innocent. When by age or climate, this acrimony is too great, we do not uſe them as food. When boiled, this acri⯑mony is deſtroyed, and a remarkable mild ſub⯑ſtance remains, very nutritious, eſpecially to thoſe who can digeſt them raw.

But of all the culinary herbs, potatoes are the beſt; they, containing a kind of flour, are, on that account, very nouriſhing, and leſs flatulent than any, conſequently very wholeſome. The more mealy they are, the better.

The next in order are peas, beans, French beans, &c. they contain a degree of oil and ſugar mixed, conſequently afford pure and ſtrong nouriſhment, as appear from experiments made on domeſtic animals, viz. hogs, &c. But as they are of firm texture, and not eaſily digeſted, their uſe in food ſhould be confined to the hardy and robuſt. They are more flatulent than moſt vegetables, therefore improper aliment for weak ſtomachs. When eaten young, before they come to be ripe, they are indeed leſs flatulent, on account of their not having attained the oil they afterwards gain; but then their nutriment is proportionably diminiſh⯑ed. French beans being eaten in their cod, are [61]not ſo flatulent as the other two; and peas, either ripe or not, being of a more tender and ſoluble texture than beans, are not ſo often eaten. The pea is uſed for culinary purpoſes, as puddings, &c. &c.

So much for vegetable food: let us now con⯑ſider the particular ſorts of animal. And firſt, with reſpect to beef and veal. Were we purely to conſider tenderneſs of texture, the youngeſt ani⯑mals certainly would be always preferred; but when we talk of them as nouriſhing food, beef is, for the reaſons I have mentioned, more nutritive than veal: for when an animal is very young, we commonly have an averſion to it. The whole of it then is, as it were, a ſemifluid maſs, which we cannot take, in ſufficient quantity; and which, from its watery conſiſtence, muſt be but little nutritious. It is the ſame with reſpect to mutton and lamb, veniſon and fawn, pork and pig, &c. Mutton has commonly been preferred to all the fleſhes of quadrupeds; and indeed, be⯑ſides its being more perfect, has the advantage over them of being more generally ſuited to dif⯑ferent climates. Beef requires a very nice inter⯑mediate ſtate, rich paſtures and temperate air; which it ſeems to enjoy chiefly in this country: whereas ſheep can be brought to almoſt the ſame [62]perfection in the bleak northern, as in theſe mild ſouthern countries.

Hare, being an animal much exerciſed, acquires a firmneſs of fibres, and is difficult of digeſtion; and when killed, after a long chace, when much of the oil of the body is abſorbed, its muſcular parts are much firmer and tougher than when killed in the ſeat. The rabbit, being of very little exerciſe, is one of the white meats, without viſcidity, and is one of the lighteſt and moſt di⯑geſtible foods in uſe.

With reſpect to the hog; it, being the only domeſtic animal we know, of no uſe to men when alive; is therefore properly deſigned for food. Beſides, as loathſome and ugly to every human eye, it is killed without reluctance. Pork is of very tender ſtructure, encreaſed, perhaps, from a peculiarity in its nature, viz. taking in fat more readily than any other animal. Pork is a white meat, even in its adult ſtate, and then gives out a jelly in very great quantity; and on account of its tenderneſs, &c. is very nutritious.

The next claſs of animal food, is that of birds; of which there are ſeveral kinds. The cock, hen, chicken, and capon, are entirely do⯑meſtic, [63]there being no country in which they are found wild. They take little exerciſe, and live moſtly on vegetables; hence they are food of a tender ſtructure, eaſy of digeſtion, and, as a white meat, gelatinous. When very young, they are extremely viſcid; when old, tough and liga⯑mentous: ſo that the proper time of uſing them is in a middle ſtate, between theſe two extremes; that is, when about a year old. Such as eat them younger, eat them when unwholeſome. Now, a barn-door fowl is far preferable to one that is crammed; as exerciſe is neceſſary to give perfec⯑tion; for by this means, the fat of the animal is equally diſperſed through the muſcular parts; whereas, when the bird is fatted haſtily, the fat is accumulated in particular parts.

Turkies are of the ſame kind with the cock, hen, &c. equally tender, and equally eaſy of di⯑geſtion. With reſpect to wild fowl; ſuch as the pheaſant, the grouſe, the partridge, and the quail, they approach in their nature to the tame fowl; but are of a higher flavour, are more tender, and rather eaſier of digeſtion.

We come next to water-fowl. Of theſe the duck, both wild and tame, contains a great deal [64]of eſſential oil, and will not ſo readily digeſt in the ſtomach. However, the wild duck, from its being much exerciſed, being generally carnivorous, is more ſoluble than the tame duck, and, of courſe, eaſier digeſted. The tame gooſe is mani⯑feſtly leſs viſcid than the duck, but is of a firmer texture. Digeſtion, with regard to this bird, is not ſo conſtant; it depending on the diſpoſition of the ſtomach. But the teal, though much of the nature of the wild duck, is the moſt tender and ſavoury, the leaſt viſcid, and the moſt wholeſome of this kind.

The next claſs of aquatics, are the woodcock, ſnipe, the grey and green plover, &c. of which the woodcock and ſnipe, although they live chiefly on infects, are of a tender ſtructure, approaching to the white meats of the cock and hen.

I have given the reader to underſtand, that exer⯑ciſe produces firmneſs. An opportunity now of⯑fers to illuſtrate it. The woodcock is obliged to fly much about, while the partridge walks more and flies leſs. Hence, it is obſerved, that the wing of the woodcock is always very tough, while that of the partridge is very tender; and, on the contrary, the leg of the woodcock is very [65]tender, while that of the partridge is very tough. Hence the old doggrel diſtich:

With reſpect to pidgeons, another claſs of birds, they are, in their nature, hot and alkaleſcent, that is, very much diſpoſed to active fermentation in the ſtomach; and perhaps, more ſo than any other, bird of this kind that lives on grain. We attribute this to much exerciſe. When young, they are tender and eaſily digeſted. As to ſmaller birds, viz. the lark, the thruſh, &c. there is probably a difference according to their exerciſe and food; but it will be ſufficient to ſay, that, when taken at a proper age, they are tender, juicy, and whole⯑ſome.

We have a good opportunity here to mention eggs. It is obvious, from their nature and uſe, in the nouriſhment of the foetus, that they contain a lar⯑ger proportion of pure nutriment than any other food. Notwithſtanding this, eggs are not of eaſy digeſtion; and from the proportion of nouriſh⯑ment [66]they afford, cannot be eaten in any large quantity.

We will now proceed to fiſh: but firſt, let us mention the turtle, an amphibious animal, now become a great delicacy. From ſome particu⯑lars in its oeconomy, from its little motion, and its living on vegetables, it is of a very gelatinous nature, and highly nutritious.

The texture of fiſh, in general, is more tender than that of fleſh. They have nothing of a fibrous ſtructure like fleſh; of courſe, they are eaſier digeſted than meat, eſpecially ſuch as are not of a viſcid nature. We have had occaſion to ſay ſomething on the different kinds of fiſh before, as indeed, we have on moſt ſorts of food; but as it is a matter in which mankind are highly concern⯑ed, it may not be unneceſſary to be a little more particular.

Thoſe of the ſalmon kind, as the ſea-ſalmon, the river-trout, the ſmelt, the charr, &c. are of a tender ſubſtance, ſufficiently juicy and nouriſh⯑ing; but, like other fiſh, they are heating, and apt to breed humours in the ſkin. The ſalmon⯑trout is undoubtedly more ſtimulating, and leſs gelatinous than thoſe of the white kind.

[67]The next claſs, ſuch as the barbel, the carp, the gudgeon, the tench, the chubb, the roach, the bleak, and the bream, is drier, and leſs tendi⯑nous; leſs ſtrong and heating; and of a nature leſs gelatinous. The perch is ſomething of this kind, of a firm texture, but tender ſubſtance, eaſily digeſted, neither glutinous, heating, or re⯑markably ſtimulant.

The next claſs is ſea-fiſh, and that of the whit⯑ing, the haddock, and the cod. Theſe give a gra⯑dation in tenderneſs, glutinoſity, and ſtimulus to the whole ſyſtem; the cod being the firmeſt, moſt viſcid, and moſt heating, of the three.

The lump is a remarkable viſcid fiſh, ap⯑proaching in quality to the eel, and exceedingly nutritious to thoſe who uſe it. The mackerel is of drier ſubſtance, and leſs nutritious. The mullet is between the carp and the haddock; leſs dry than the one, and more juicy than the other. The pike, though rapacious and carnivorous, is dry and in ſome degree, oily, and one of the leaſt heat⯑ing of any we take in.

Another claſs, is that of the herring, the ſprat, the anchovy, and the ſhad; which are of an oily, [68]juicy, nutritious nature, in their heating quality next to the ſalmon, ſtimulating the ſyſtem and quickening the pulſe to a conſiderable degree.

The next claſs is that of the flounder kind, viz. the common flounder, the ſoal, the plaiſe, the turbot, and the holibut. Theſe are all of a ten⯑der oily, juicy nature, more viſcid than the pre⯑ceding claſs; but leſs ſo than the following. They are ſet down according to their qualities; the flounder and ſoal more tender, the turbot and holibut more viſcid.

The laſt is the eel kind, as the ſand-eel, the com⯑mon eel, the conger-eel, &c. Theſe are of the ſame quality with the viper, viſcid, nutritious, and difficultly perſpirable; by long retention in the ſtomach, heating, and oppreſſive.

With reſpect to the crab, the ſhrimp, and the lobſter, they come under the name of inſects: they are of a nature, that if boiled, will give a jellied broth, and are apt to ſtimulate the ſyſtem very much, producing heat, anxiety, and fever. As to oyſters, they are nutritious, and though long retained in the ſtomach, as little heating to the ſyſtem as any. The muſcle, they ſay, is poi⯑ſonous; but where the poiſon reſides, we cannot [69]tell: the ill effects ſometimes on eating them, muſt proceed from their viſcidity.

Upon the whole, we beg, it may be underſtood, that what has been ſaid reſpecting foods, holds good only in general. Difference of conſtitution will produce different effects. Thus, according to the old adage, ‘What is one man's meat, may be another man's poiſon.’ If perſons are ſo raſh as to determine the quality of any particular food to be good, becauſe it agrees with them, it is in vain ſaying any thing to them, upon the ſubject: what is wholeſome to-day, may be be injurious to morrow; and though at preſent, they find no ill effects from the uſe of certain things, they may lay the foundation of diſeaſes, and unhappily experience them later in life.

But before we diſmiſs this ſubject, we muſt take notice of the uſe of coffee and tea. Much diſpute has ariſen about their virtues. One would ima⯑gine, frequent experience would long ago have ſilenced ſuch diſputes. Their effects are, un⯑doubtedly, very much mixed, depending on the warm water. The virtues attributed to them, ſuch as aſſiſting digeſtion, relieving the ſtomach from a load of food, from crudities and from [70]head-achs ariſing from them, promoting the ſecre⯑tion of urine, and perhaps of perſpiration, may be all fairly attributed to the warm water. The ſame alſo will have the effect of keeping from ſleep. Tea, it is known, weakens the tone of the ſtomach, by frequent uſe; debilitates the ſyſtem, in conſequence, and brings on tremors and con⯑vulſions. The ſame effects are not ſo remarka⯑ble in coffee; but ſtill experience ſhews them to be of the ſame nature. Coffee contains a great quantity of oil, of a binding quality, that corrects putrefaction. It is found to moderate fermenta⯑tion in the ſtomach, and to be a powerful quieter of the ſyſtem; that is, it will decreaſe the force and circulation of the blood, and take off the quickneſs and fulneſs of the pulſe; or, in other words, it will often abate a ſlight fever. For this reaſon it is recommended in a morning for a head-ach, which it will frequently remove. So far, indeed, taken medicinally, it may be uſeful; and as it aſſiſts digeſtion, one diſh may not be in⯑jurious to thoſe who ſit long after dinner, and who have ſtrong conſtitutions; but in delicate habits, it often occaſions want of ſleep, tremors, and many of thoſe complaints called nervous. Newmann obtained by diſtillation, from one pound of [71]coffee, five ounces five drachms and a half of water; ſix ounces and half a drachm of thick foetid oil, and four ounces and two drachms of earth. In ſhort, we may conclude, that coffee and tea, however their effects be varied by habit, or particular conſtitutions, certainly weaken the tone of the ſyſtem, and diminiſh the force of the nervous power.

Having now treated fully of the ſeveral kinds of food, we will next conſider the quantity, time, and order, neceſſary to be obſerved in taking it: for health depends as much upon a proper atten⯑tion to this, as to the food we eat. And, in this, let the palate, or inclination, be firſt conſulted. Nature has endowed the ſtomach with ſuch ſenſi⯑bility, that, in health, if ſtrictly attended to, ſhe will, in general, call or long, for that which is proper, and reject or loath that which is improper. It is this natural longing that has frequently pointed out, in diſorders, food, which, without the aſſiſt⯑ance of medicine, has often recovered the patient. Eat then, by no means, that, for common food, which you diſlike. Paulo pejor ſed ſuavior cibus & potus meliori at ingrato, praeferendus. Agreeable food, though it be rather worſe in quality, is pre⯑ferable to that which cloys, be it ever ſo good.

[72]In the next place, examine your ſtomach. Never eat any thing that lies heavy in it, or riſes in it, any thing that is long in paſſing off, or any thing that is flatulent or windy, that occaſions belchings, heart burn, gripes, or fluxes; theſe being ſure ſymptoms of improper digeſtion; the conſequence of which is bad. If therefore, from a depraved appetite, you ſhould long for ſuch food as you experimentally found to diſagree with you, by no means indulge it. By a reſolution to withſtand ſuch temptations, we may keep off a number of diſorders: for indigeſtion is the fore⯑runner of half the diſeaſes we are liable to.

Another thing to be conſidered, is the choice of food, whether ſuch meat as you wiſh for, be in ſeaſon or not; for that which at one time of the year is good, may, at another, be hurtful. For example, pork, during the winter, is wholeſome, but in ſummer, it is not fit to be eaten. Our taſte will guide us in this; as much difference as there is in taſte, between a thing in ſeaſon and out of ſeaſon; ſo much is there in the goodneſs, and of courſe, in its wholeſomeneſs.

It has been long a cuſtom to keep meat a con⯑ſiderable time before we dreſs it, under a notion [73]of its becoming more tender and eaſy of digeſ⯑tion. They ſay, when putrefaction has begun to take place in meat out of the body, it will the ſooner break down in the body. This may pro⯑bably be the caſe: but what it acquires in tender⯑neſs, it loſes in its nutritive quality. It is not ſufficient that your meat does not ſtink, the ſpi⯑rituous part of it muſt be preſerved, that which gives lively and pure nouriſhment: meat, there⯑fore long kept, is not ſo wholeſome as that which is freſh killed. With reſpect to digeſtion, it goes on ſufficiently ſoon in a healthy ſtomach, whether the meat be tough or tender. It is not meant to ſay that all meats are ſufficiently ſoon digeſted; it has already been ſhewn to the contrary; but what is meant, is, that in meat of the ſame kind and age, it is of no great conſequence to the eater, in point of firmneſs, whether it be tender, from being long kept, or tough, from being dreſſed, when freſh killed.

Cuſtom is another thing to be conſidered in the choice of food. What we have been longeſt uſed to, generally agrees beſt with us. Change of diet is apt to cauſe ſome alteration: therefore when a new diet offers itſelf, as upon change of [74]places and countries, we ſhould at firſt be ſparing; upon further uſe we may be bolder. Nay, even, with thoſe to whom a change of diet becomes neceſſary, it ſhould be brought about by degrees. Nulla ſubita mutatio eſt bona. No ſudden change is good.

The next thing we ſhould ſtudy, is the quan⯑tity. Temperance and moderation in eating is nature's great preſervative. Plures gula quam gladius—the throat has deſtroyed more than the ſword. Some are apt to think, the more plenti⯑fully they eat, the better they thrive, and the ſtronger they grow. But this is not the caſe. A little well digeſted, will render the body more vi⯑gorous than when it is glutted with ſuperfluity, moſt of which is turned to excrementitious, not alimentary fluid, and muſt be ſpeedily evacuated, or ſickneſs will follow. Our ſtomach is the beſt judge in ſuch caſes. We ſhould never eat to ſa⯑tiety or fulneſs, but deſiſt with an appetite. Thus ſhall we be refreſhed; light and cheerful, not dull, heavy, or indiſpoſed. No certain quantity of food can be preſcribed as a general rule: what is convenient to one, may be too much for another, and too little for a third. A ſtrong labouring [75]and active perſon may eat more freely than the weak, the ſtudious, and ſedentary, or ſuch as take their eaſe: indeed, the active require greater ſup⯑ply. By our loading the ſtomach, fermentation is checked, and, of courſe, digeſtion impeded; for the natural juice of the ſtomach has not room to exert itſelf; it therefore nauſeates its contents, and is attended with belchings; the ſpirits are clogged, obſtructions enſue, and fever is the conſequence. Hence ariſe various ill ſymptoms, and depraved effects throughout the body, enervating the ſtrength, decaying the ſenſes, haſtening old age, and ſhortening of life. Though theſe bad effects are not inſtantly perceived, yet they are the certain attendants of intemperance; for it has been gene⯑rally obſerved, in great eaters, that (though from cuſtom, a ſtate of youth, and a ſtrong conſtitu⯑tion, they have felt no immediate inconvenience, but have digeſted their food, ſuffered ſurfeit, and bore their immoderate diet well) if they have not been unexpectedly cut off, they have found the ſymptoms of old age come on early in life, attended with pains and innumerable diſor⯑ders. In winter, indeed, we may eat more freely than in ſummer, becauſe the ſtomach is ſtronger, for the reaſons I mentioned before, the circula⯑tion [76]of the blood not being encreaſed by the heat of the weather, on the external parts of the body: but both in winter and ſummer, we ſhould feed with moderation: and if we value our health, ever make it a rule to riſe from table with an appetite. Should we ever be tempted to eat too much, at one time, we ſhould eat the leſs at another; that is, if our dinner has been larger than ordinary, let our ſupper be the leſs, or if poſſible, none at all; for there is no man however careful of his health, that in this matter does not occaſionally tranſ⯑greſs.

The next caution to be mentioned on this ſub⯑ject, are the hours of eating. Let not the com⯑mon cuſtom of meals invite you to eat, except your appetite concur with thoſe times. A ſuffi⯑cient diſtance between hours of eating ſhould be ever obſerved, leſt we charge the ſtomach with a freſh ſupply, before the former be paſſed away; for if any half digeſted matter remains to be mixed with the next meal, it frequently occaſions a foul ſtomach; beſides, the ſtomach, when empty, receives the food with delight, and will be eager and ſharp in digeſtion; and each part, as it paſſes along, will perform its office readily [77]and ſufficiently. However, as ſome ſtomachs will digeſt their contents ſooner than others, and if long empty, will naturally draw up from the inteſtines putrid vapours, which will deſtroy the appetite, (for how often do we faſt, till we loſe our appetite?) and greatly diſturb the head and ani⯑mal ſpirits; (for the head, from the great quan⯑tity of nerves ſpread upon the ſtomach, readily ſympathizes with it) on theſe accounts, let ſuch as feel a gnawing, as it is commonly called, within them, not wait till the ſtated hour of meals, but eat a little, that the ſtomach may have ſomething to work on. Hence it appears, that there can be no general hour of eating. Children, with craving appetities, do, and may eat often. Young perſons in health, that labour and uſe much exerciſe, may eat three times a-day, morning, noon, and night; but to ſuch as are in years, ſuch as are weak, as do no work, uſe no exerciſe, or lead a ſedentary life, eating twice in the day is ſufficient; or, perſons weak and old, may eat often, but then it ſhould be but little.

If perſons confine themſelves to two meals a-day, one had better be a ſupper than a dinner, pro⯑vided they ſup early; becauſe, during the hours [78]of ſleep, the body is compoſed, and at reſt, and at this time, receives its greateſt nouriſhment. But late ſuppers are very offenſive to the whole frame, eſpecially to the head and eyes, from the vapours that ariſe from a loaded ſtomach. Our food ſhould be tolerably well digeſted, before we lay down to ſleep; and this is not well done un⯑der two or three hours. Our anceſtors uſed to ſup at ſix, and go to reſt at ten. Hence they could comply with that well known advice, After ſupper walk a mile, in order to quicken digeſtion, and diſpoſe the body for reſt.

We ſhould not eat preſently after exerciſe, nor when we are hot, but forbear till the ſpirits are retired and ſettled. Neither ſhould we come to meat burthened with care or buſineſs; for owing to the ſympathy between the brain and ſtomach, as was obſerved, by means of the nerve, diſtur⯑bed mind will impede the functions of the ſto⯑mach. It is for this reaſon, we eat in company, cheerfully with our friends. Mirth and good company are great helps to a dull ſtomach, creators of appetite, and forwarders of digeſtion: and it is for this reaſon, lively muſic has been in⯑troduced at feaſts.

[79]We ſhould take care alſo to chew our meat well; for the ſaliva with which we thus mix it, is a great help to digeſtion; beſides, in breaking it down with the teeth, we ſave the ſtomach the trouble: to eat greedily, therefore, and ſwallow our meat haſtily, is not only indecent, but hurt⯑ful. With reſpect to drinking at meals, we ſhould do it little and often, eſpecially if our food be dry and ſolid; great draughts cauſe fluc⯑tuation, and diſturb fermentation.

Thus, having gone through the ſeveral proper⯑ties of the various kinds of food, and ſhewn how far they are wholeſome or not, and how far they agree or diſagree with different conſtitutions; in order to complete this treatiſe upon health, we ſhould proceed to conſider the articles of exerciſe, temperance, reſt, ſleep, &c. on each of which a great deal may be ſaid; but as that would ſwell theſe pages to a ſize that might probably deter the reader from a peruſal of them, it will be more political to defer it to ſome other time. If this is received with the approbation the ſubject de⯑ſerves, the remainder will follow of courſe.