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JOURNAL OF THE RESOLUTION's VOYAGE, In 1772, 1773, 1774, and 1775. ON DISCOVERY TO THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE, BY WHICH The NON-EXISTENCE of an undiſcovered CONTINENT, between the Equator and the 50th Degree of Southern Latitude, is demonſtratively proved.

ALSO A JOURNAL OF THE ADVENTURE's VOYAGE, In the Years 1772, 1773, and 1774.

With an Account of the SEPARATION of the two SHIPS, and the moſt remarkable Incidents that befel each.

INTER [...]RSED WITH HISTORICAL and GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIONS of the ISLANDS and COUNTRIES diſcovered in the Courſe of their reſpective VOYAGES.

ILLUSTRATED WITH A CHART, In which the TRACKS of both VESSELS are accurately laid down, And OTHER CUTS.

LONDON: Printed for F. NEWBERY, at the Corner of St. Paul's Church-Yard. 1775.

PREFACE.

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FEW of the readers of the preſent voyages, it may be preſumed, are wholly unacquainted with the diſcoveries immediately preceding it; diſcoveries, if we may credit the relater, ‘"far greater than thoſe of all the navigators in the world collectively, from the expedition of Columbus, to the preſent time."*

Without queſtioning the truth of this intimation, which, no doubt, like other truths conveyed to the ear of majeſty, is founded on the moſt authentic evidence, we may be permitted to remark, that great as theſe diſcoveries were, they ſtill left room for a new expedition, in order to accompliſh the GRAND DISCOVERY, with reſpect to which all former diſcoveries appear as a faint light, compared to the brightneſs of the cleareſt day.

[vi]Mr. Bankes, on being made acquainted with this unfavourable report made to his Majeſty, ordered his ſtores to be brought on ſhore, as did Dr. Solander, Dr. Lind, Mr. Zoffani, and five draughtſmen that had been engaged by Mr. Bankes, for the purpoſe of delineating the curioſities of every kind that might be diſcovered in the courſe of the voyage; a voyage patronized by Parliament, as well as by Royal Bounty, the Commons having voted 4000 l. to Dr. Lind, for his aſſiſtance in it; and to make it ſtill more memorable, medals were ordered to be ſtruck for it in braſs, and Mr. Bankes was at the expence of a few in gold and ſilver. Dr. Lind, from a point of delicacy, reſigned his parliamentary appointment, to accompany his friend Mr. Bankes in a private expedition to the northern iſles, with a view, as it ſhould ſeem, to examine the analogy of nature in its productions in the oppoſite latitudes of the Southern and Northern Hemiſpheres.

Be that as it may, on the ſeceſſion of thoſe gentlemen, the voyage, though interrupted, [vii] was not laid aſide. The Reſolution not being thought capable of paſſing the flats, was by the Pilot brought back to Sheerneſs to be cut down, and the Adventure, the command of which had been given to Mr. Furneaux, ſecond Lieutenant of the Dolphin in her ſecond voyage that was to accompany her, was ordered round to Plymouth, there to wait the arrival of the Reſolution, when reſtored to her former condition. During this interval, no other alterations took place in the appointments of either ſhip, but that John Reinhold Forſter and his ſon, were promoted in the room of Dr. Lind, with the parliamentary encouragement.

Matters being thus far ſettled, the two ſhips were ordered to be got in readineſs with the utmoſt expedition, and to be victualled and provided with all manner of neceſſaries for a three years voyage; theſe orders were punctually obeyed, and as we are informed, Captain Cooke was permitted to ſuperintend the execution. The [viii] ſhips were likewiſe furniſhed with innumerable articles of ſmall value, adapted to the commerce of the tropical iſlands.

It had been urged as a reaſon for former diſappointments, that the Commanders were too ſtraitly confined by their commiſſions, and that being reſtricted by the tenor of their inſtructions within the limits of certain latitudes, they muſt have been anſwerable for the loſs of the ſhips with which they were entruſted, had any diſaſter happened to them beyond the latitudes preſcribed. to obviate all pretences of this kind in the preſent expedition, it is ſaid, that his Majeſty recommended to his Board of Admiralty a commiſſion of a more liberal kind, empowering Capt. Cooke, and, in caſe of death, his ſucceſſor, to purſue at diſcretion the object he had in charge.

To this, and to the meaſures that were taken, however ſecretly or artfully conducted, to ſhake off in the beginning the cumberſome train of numerous attendants, it is, that we owe the ſucceſs of a voyage, which, whether we conſider it in a geographical or nautical light, we [ix] will not heſitate a moment to pronounce one of the moſt important that ever was performed in any age, or by any country.

This declaration, we hope, the great navigator by whom it was conducted, will pardon from a man, who, though a ſtranger to his perſon, cannot help admiring his ſkill, his fortitude, his care of his men, his vigilance in attending to the minuteſt intimations of former voyagers, his perſeverance amidſt the dangers and hardſhips of rigorous ſeaſons; his proweſs in leading his company juſt ſo far as they were capable of proceeding: in ſhort, his conduct throughout, which, while he kept every man ſingly in ſtrict obedience to his duty, he conciliated the affections of all, and ſecured their eſteem: yet with all theſe powers which entitle him to the rank of a great Commander, it may be fairly inferred, that had the firſt intentions taken place,—had the train of gentlemen with their attendants occupied the chief accommodations of the ſhip, it would have been out of the power of the moſt determined officer to have carried [x] ſuch a princely retinue through the icey regions, which they were to paſs without murmur, or perhaps mutiny. Be this, however, as it may, it now fully appears, that the very able navigator made choice of by his Majeſty for this important ſervice, was alone in every reſpect equal to the talk in which he was embarked. Superior genius can never diſplay itſelf to the utmoſt advantage while under the check even of prudential controul; but when left at large to expand its powers, it ſeldom fails to perform wonders, and to accompliſh the greateſt undertakings.

We have indeed been told, and there is the greateſt reaſon to believe it true, that a different courſe would have been purſued had Mr. Bankes and his aſſociates taken part in the voyage; and that inſtead of running to New Zealand, New Holland would have been their place of general rendezvous. There, it is ſaid, they intended to have prolonged their ſtay during the winter months of that hemiſphere, in order, as at Ottaheitte formerly, to have cultivated an acquaintance [xi] with the natives, a new race of men, and to have examined the natural productions of the country; to have traced the arts and manners of the inhabitants of the different diviſions, and to have delineated their perſons, habits, warlike inſtruments, ſhipping, &c. with the rarities of every kind, that by their enquiries they could obtain, or by their vigilance diſcover: and thus having acquired a general knowledge of the natural hiſtory of New Holland, as the ſummer approached they were to have proceeded in the proſecution of the plan of government for geographical purpoſes, examining the high latitudes during the ſummer ſeaſon for the diſcovery of the new continent, and the low latitudes in the winter for the improvement of ſcience: though by this plan the world would ſtill perhaps have been left in doubt as to the exiſtence of a new continent, yet a vaſt country would have been laid open, of which at preſent very little is known.

But this plan proving abortive, it will now moſt evidently appear, from the peruſal [xii] of the following ſheets, that whoever was the projector of the preſent plan, a more perfect could not have been deviſed for deciding the point in queſtion; and now, that it has been executed, we will venture to aſſert, that no propoſition was ever more clearly demonſtrated, than that there is no continent undiſcovered in the ſouthern hemiſphere between the equator and the 50th degree of ſouthern latitude, in which ſpace all who have contended for its exiſtence have included, if not the whole, at leaſt the moſt conſiderable part. But at the ſame time that we declare ourſelves thus clearly convinced of the non-exiſtence of a continent within the limits juſt mentioned, we cannot help acknowledging our ready belief that the land our navigators diſcovered to the ſoutheaſtward of Staten Land, is part of a continent projecting from the north in a narrow neck, and expanding to the ſouthward and weſtward, in like manner as the South American continent takes its riſe in the ſouth, and enlarges as it advances northward, more particularly [xiii] towards the eaſt. In this belief we are ſtrengthened by the ſtrong repreſentation of land ſeen at a diſtance by our navigators, in lat. 72 and long. 252, and by the report of Theodore Gerrards, who after paſſing the ſtraits of Magellan, being driven by tempeſts into the latitude of 64 S. in that height came in ſight of a country mountainous and covered with ſnow, looking like Norway, and ſeemingly extending from eaſt to weſt. Theſe facts corroborate each other; and though they do not reduce the queſtion to an abſolute certainty, yet the probability is greatly in favour of the new diſcovery.

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  • Page 19, line 16, add, This ſtorm began on the 29th of January.
  • P. 23, l. 9, dele in a bay; ib. l. 12, for cold r. bold.
  • P. 36, l. 13, for 193 read 173; l. 2, from the bottom, for numerous read incurious.
  • P. 38, l. 1, for diſtance of the 48th, read limits of the 50th.
  • P. 57, l. 22, after root, add of.
  • P. 72, l. 23, read, the Reſolution ſhortened ſail till they, &c.
  • P. 77, l. 16, for lat. 24, read 44.
  • P. 107, l. 9, for caſting, r. eaſting.
  • P. 108, l. 9. for ſhipped, r. ſhifted.
  • P. 120, l. 20, for 257 r. 237.
  • P. 136, l. 13, after weather (;) l. 14, after agitated (,).
  • P. 137, l. 21. for 10 min. r. 30 min.
  • P. 138, l. 9, for firm r. fine.
  • P. 151, l. 14, for paying r. peying.
  • P. 209, l. 13, after proſtitution add (,).
  • P. 219, l. 2, from the bottom, for ſaw r. ſew.
  • P. 257, l. 5, from the bottom, for back r. tackt.
  • P. 258, l. 5, for 176 r. 166.

Directions to the Binder for placing the Cuts.

  • The Chart of the Tracks of the Reſolution and Adventure, to face the Title-Page.
  • Plate I. being a View of an Harbour and Plantations in the Iſland of Rotterdam, with the Manner of the Inhabitants ſitting and ſtanding, to face Page 249.
  • Plate II. repreſenting the large Fields of Ice by which their Paſſage was obſtructed, in lat. 67 deg. 10 min. S. to face Page 9.
  • Plate III. repreſenting the landing of Part of the Adventure's Crew in ſearch of their Companions, who were murdered and eaten by the Savages of New-Zealand, to face Page 94.
  • Plate IV. repreſenting a View of two Burning Mountains, to face Page 253.
  • Plate V. being a Repreſentation of a remarkable high Mountain, to face Page 321.
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[map of the southern hemisphere]

VOYAGE TO THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE

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ALL things being in readineſs, as already related, on the 13th of July they ſailed from Plymouth, both ſhips in company, and on the 20th of the ſame month came in ſight of Cape Finiſterre, bearing W. S. W. ſeven or eight leagues.

On the 22d they paſſed two Spaniſh men of war, one of which fired two ſhot at the Adventure, to oblige her to bring to; but on hailing her, and being told they were king's ſhips, made a proper apology, and very politely took leave, wiſhing them a good voyage.

On the 28th about nine at night, they came to, and anchored in Madeira road without the leaſt incident worth relating intervening. Here the captains and commiſſioned officers, and ſuch of the petty officers and private men as had money or marketable commodities, furniſhed themſelves with ſuch ſtocks of wine as [2] they judged neceſſary for their future uſe during the voyage, or could conveniently purchaſe; and having alſo filled their empty caſks with water, and ſtowed them on board, they proceeded on their voyage with a pleaſant gale.

On the 1ſt of Auguſt they loſt ſight of Madeira, and on the 4th ſaw the pleaſant iſland of Palma, bearing S. S. W. diſtance about three or four leagues.

On the 8th they croſſed the Tropic of Cancer, in lat. 23 deg. 30 min. N. long. 19 deg. 11 min. W. and at nine in the morning came in ſight of the iſland of Bonaviſta, bearing S. W. by W. ſix or ſeven miles.

On the 12th about five in the morning, they paſſed the iſle of May, and at two in the afternoon came to, and caſt anchor in Port à Priege bay in the iſland of St. Jago, where they ſaluted the Governor with 11 four-pounders. Here they ſupplied both ſhips with plenty of good water, and here they recruited their live ſtock, ſuch as hogs, goats, and poultry, ſome of which continued alive during the remainder of the voyage. This iſland is perhaps one of the moſt plentiful in the whole world, and yet the inhabitants are miſerable poor, owing no doubt to the tyranny of their Governors.

On the 14th about ten at night both ſhips weighed anchor, and continued their voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, where, on the contrary, [3] the European inhabitants are almoſt all rich; for, certain it is, that though the country round the Dutch ſettlement at the Cape is barren almoſt to a degree of ſterility, yet by the ſteady perſeverance of that ſlow people in one invariable courſe of cultivation, they have rendered the ſpot on which they are ſettled, in ſpight of nature, fruitful; and have brought it to ſuch a fertile ſtate as not only to produce all the neceſſaries of life, but even many of its delicacies too. Here every thing may be purchaſed for money, which at St. Jago the miſerable inhabitants are glad to exchange for rags and old cloaths; but it is not a little money that will content a Dutchman for a convenience of which he knows an Engliſhman is in want.

Nothing remarkable happened on board either of the ſhips in this long run, except that the Reſolution loſt the carpenter's mate, who unfortunately fell over-board and was drowned; and the Adventure two very hopeful young officers, Mr. John Limbrich, and Mr. Samuel Kemp, midſhipmen, by death. Theſe were ſeverally committed to the ocean after the manner of the ſolemnity uſed at ſea, and their cloaths and ſea ſtores ſold by auction before the maſt, for the benefit of their heirs.

Two men were likewiſe puniſhed on board the Adventure; one a private marine for quarrelling with the quarter-maſter; the other a [4] common ſailor for theft: each of them received twelve laſhes, which is no otherwiſe of importance to mention, except to ſhew what ſtrict diſcipline it was neceſſary to preſerve on board the ſhips, in order to eſtabliſh a regular and peaceable behaviour in ſuch hazardous voyages, where men unaccuſtomed to controul are but too apt to prove mutinous.

On the 30th of Auguſt both ſhips in company came to an anchor in Table-bay, where in a few days they were joined by a French ſhip from the Mauritius, and two Dutch ſhips from Middleburgh; theſe laſt, having been four months on their paſſage, had loſt no leſs than 200 men by fevers and other diſeaſes.

Here the captains were cordially received by the old Dutch Governor, ſaid to be one of the politeſt, and at the ſame time the moſt friendly men in any part of the known world. Being told they were upon diſcovery, he gave them a general invitation to his table during their ſtay at the Cape, openly and candidly imparted to them all the information he had been able to collect concerning the ſouthern continent, of which ſo much had been ſaid and written; and before their departure, he did them the honour to dine on board the Reſolution, which was an uncommon piece of civility to gentlemen with whom he was ſo ſlenderly acquainted.

[5]Here both ſhips compleated their ſtock of proviſions for the unknown voyage they were about to undertake; the articles they chiefly purchaſed were pickles of various ſorts, which were found of great uſe on board the Reſolution, in preventing, with other preſervatives of the like kind, the effects of the ſcurvy from making the uſual havock among the men. Bread, which is eſteemed the beſt that can be purchaſed for long voyages; beef, which conſidering the warmth of the climate, is cured to admiration; arrack, brandy, and ſpirits, than which there are none better; theſe articles are all reaſonable at the Cape; and as for the live-ſtock which the officers generally recruit, though they are dear, they are not an object of complaint, as the amount is inconſiderable in reſpect to the other neceſſaries.

Every thing being now fully prepared, the ſhips cleanſed, and ſmoaked, and the crews in high ſpirits, all but Lieut. Shanks, of the Adventure, who deſired leave to return home, on the 22d of November 1773, both ſhips took their departure from the Cape, but firſt the promotion took place in the Adventure, which the reſignation of Lieut. Shanks, juſt mentioned, had rendered neceſſary. Accordingly the 2d Lieutenant Mr. Kemp, was promoted to be 1ſt Lieutenant, and Mr. Burney, midſhipman, was made 2d Lieutenant.

[6]Nothing remarkable, except puniſhing two men on board the Adventure for neglect of duty, till the 28th, when in lat. 40 deg. 55. min. S. long. 12 deg. 6 min. E. it began to blow a ſtorm, but as the wind ſtood fair both ſhips continued to keep company.

On the 1ſt of December being in lat. 43 deg. 14 min. S. long. 16 deg. 23 min. E. the ſhips company of the Adventure, were put to two-thirds allowance of bread. Both ſhips continued their courſe to the ſouthward, and being already as far to the ſouth, as any ſhip had ever yet ſailed in that quarter, all beyond was as utterly unknown as if they had been the firſt ſhips that had ever navigated the South-Seas.

On the 10th they came in ſight of two iſlands of ice, which they took to be land, but when they bore down to them, they were ſoon convinced of their miſtake. Lat. 49 deg. 39 min. long. 21 deg. 20 min. E.

On the 22d they came in ſight of ſo many iſlands of ice that it was with the utmoſt difficulty that they could avoid them. Here they firſt obſerved flocks of penguins hovering about the ice-iſlands. Some of theſe iſlands appeared to be three or four miles in circumference, ſome more; but by far the greateſt number appeared like the ruins of antient towns, or the fragments of gothic caſtles. As the air was clear and the weather fine, ſeveral [7] of the gentlemen in both ſhips diverted themſelves with ſhooting penguins, and the ſailors had no leſs pleaſure in eating them, than the gentlemen had in killing them, for the officers were not yet come to reliſh ſuch rank food. Short allowance and ſalt proviſions are certainly the beſt remedies in the world for delicate ſtomachs: the officers before their return could eat penguins as well as the men. Lat. 54 deg. 52 min. long. 29 deg. 1 min. E.

On the 26th they were every where ſurrounded with iſlands of ice, inſomuch that it was with the utmoſt danger that they continued their courſe. The crews of both ſhips were in perfect health, but the fatigue of conſtantly luffing up and bearing away to avoid being daſhed to pieces, was not borne without reluctance. This, however, was not all, for being entangled among the ice, their water bad, and withall beginning to run ſhort, it was judged neceſſary to gather up the pieces of looſe ice, in order to melt it to ſupply the place of that which was taken in at St. Jago, which was now become ſo diſagreeable that the ſtrongeſt ſtomachs recoiled at uſing it. Though this proved an excellent ſuccedaneum, and was in truth a moſt ſenſible refreſhment both to the officers and ſeamen, yet the gratification was dearly purchaſed by the pain of thoſe whoſe lot it was to procure it; for the pieces of ice being many of [8] them ſo large that two men were hardly able to lift them into the boat, it became abſolutely neceſſary for them to plunge their arms into the water in order to get their hands under them to obtain a purchaſe, whereby their arms in a very ſhort ſpace of time put on the appearance of icicles, and became ſo numbed as for the preſent to be totally incapable of uſe. Yet ſuch is the advantage of diſcipline, that the men would relieve each other, when commanded on this grievous ſervice, with as much alacrity, as if it had been only to take their turn at the nightly watch. Lat. 61 deg. 35 min. long. 33 deg. 26 min. E.

Happily the weather proved moderate, ſo that between the 1ſt and the 12th of January 1773, they had gathered up ſuch a quantity of ice, as when melted in the coppers, filled all the empty caſks with the beſt water, as your journaliſts ſay, they had taſted ſince they left England.

[view of fields of ice]

On the 17th of January therefore Captain Cooke made the ſignal to his conſort to tack, and to ſteer north-weſtward. In this courſe many interruptions happened, hard gales came on, the ſeas ſhortened, the ſhips by ſtraining became leaky, the rigging by being frozen was continually ſnapping in one part or other, and [11] it was with the utmoſt difficulty the ſhips could keep company.

On the 29th of January, being then in lat. 52 deg. 28 min. S. long. 54 deg. 4 min. E. a ſtorm came on which ſeparated them, as it was thought, for ever. This ſtorm was attended with a prodigious fall of rain, every drop of which of the ſize of a common pea, the ſea roſe to a tremendous height, and broke over the ſhips bows to the height of the yard arms. The Adventure, after endeavouring in vain to recover the Reſolution, had no other means of again meeting with her, but by repairing to the firſt place appointed to rendezvous in Charlotte-Bay, on the iſland of New-Zealand. In the mean time however ſhe kept beating the ſeas in the moſt terrible weather that any ſhip could poſſibly endure. In this cruiſe, they traverſed from lat. 48 deg. to 45 deg. S. and from long. 36 deg. to 146 deg. during the whole month of February, and part of March, in which time their water being near exhauſted, they were reduced at laſt to the ſcanty allowance of a quart per man a day.

On the 1ſt of March, having made no diſcovery of land in all this diſagreeable traverſe, it was determined to ſteer to Van Dieman's land, there to take in water and repair their ſhattered rigging.

[12]On the 9th of March they came in ſight of that iſland, bearing E. by N. diſtance about eight leagues. They were now in lat. 43 deg. 46 min. S. and in long. 146 deg. 36 min. E. the weather much warmer, and the ſea calm.

On the 20th they got within three miles of a fine bay, which they at firſt miſtook for Henry Frederick's bay, and under that miſtake hoiſted out the large cutter, and ſent her in ſhore to examine the ſoundings for anchorage for the ſhip, and to endeavour to find a watering-place, and to bring with them an immediate ſupply. About noon the boat returned, and brought word that they had found both wood and water, but that the latter was far from being of the beſt; that the wood was plenty, and the anchorage ſafe; that they had ſeen none of the natives, nor ſigns of any; and that the country, as far as they could ſee, was uninhabited, or at leaſt uncultivated. The Captain on this intelligence, making a virtue of neceſſity, came to, and moored ſhip.

On the 12th the boats were all properly manned, and a guard of marines ſent on ſhore to protect the different parties that were employed in cutting wood and filling water. Here they found trees of an incredible height and ſize, the immenſity of which could never have been believed on the ſingle teſtimony of the journaliſt before me, had not the relations [13] of Taſman, Dampier, and Cooke, put the truth of the fact beyond diſpute. He reports that here the bodies of the trees were ſo large that ſix men with their arms ſtretched at full length could ſcarce fathom them; that they were of a proportionable height; that ſome of them roſe more than a hundred feet high; that the common height was from eighty to ninety feet, all ſtraight, without a limb breaking out; and that in general they ſhewed not the leaſt ſigns of decay.

On the 13th and 14th the different parties were employed in compleating their ſtock of wood and water; the gentlemen in reconnoitreing the country; and the carpenters, caulkers, ſailmakers, and riggers, in repairing, as well as the ſhort time allotted them would admit, the damages the ſhip had ſuffered in her cruiſe.

On the 15th at five in the morning, they unmoored, and about nine took their departure from the bay, which they now named the Adventure's Bay, it not appearing that any European veſſel had ever before anchored there. It lies in lat. 43 deg. 23 min. S. long. 147 deg. 37 min. E.

Though during their ſtay they had ſeen none of the natives, yet as they coaſted along ſhore they obſerved many fires in the night, and ſome cultivated fields in the day.

[14]On the 19th they loſt ſight of this iſland, and ſtretched to the north eaſtward for New Zealand, where they expected to meet the Reſolution.

On the 22d they met with a hard gale, attended with thunder, lightning, and rain, which continued the greateſt part of the day.

On the 23d the ſtorm abated, and fine weather ſucceeded, which continued during the remainder of the month.

On the 28th, the ſky being ſerene, the weather moderately warm, and the ſea calm, they hoiſted out the ſmall cutter, and the gentlemen went a-ſhooting. In a few hours they came on board with four albatroſſes, the leaſt of which meaſured 10 feet from tip to tip when their wings were ſpread to their utmoſt ſtretch.

On the 1ſt of April the weather began to alter; freſh breezes came on, the rains poured plentifully down, and ſo continued, with a few intervals of fair weather, till they came in ſight of New Zealand.

On the 3d of April at ſix in the morning, the man from the maſt head, called out, Land, which, upon a nearer approach, they knew to be the land between Rock Point and Cape Farewell, ſo named by Capt. Cooke when on his return from his laſt voyage.

On the 4th they continued their courſe. Nothing material happened on board, except [15] that John Cavannah was puniſhed with twelve laſhes for being inſolent to the firſt lieutenant.

On the 7th they came to in 10 fathom water, and next day moored ſhip a cable each way. In the mean time they manned the large cutter, and with a proper guard ſent her to examine whether any tokens of the Commodore's arrival at that harbour were to be diſcovered. The boat returned, and brought word, that there did not appear the leaſt ſign of any ſhip having been there from the time of the Endeavour's departure in 1770 to the preſent hour: they therefore inſtantly prepared to ſend the tents aſhore to be pitched under a proper guard for the accommodation of the ſick; and thoſe who were in health were very alert in catching fiſh, which they found in great plenty near the ſhore, and which proved of great ſervice in recovering the ſick, to whom freſh proviſions were both food and phyſic.

On the 9th there came alongſide the ſhip three canoes, with 15 Indians of both ſexes, all of them armed with battle-axes, and with other offenſive weapons made of hard wood in the form of our officers ſpontoons, about four feet in length, but neither bows nor arrows. The men had beſides javelins or ſpears between 20 and 30 feet long, made of the ſame hard wood with which their battle-axes were formed. [16] They had no cloaths, except a ſort of mat wrapt round their ſhoulders, and tied about their middles with a girdle made of graſs. Both men and women had a moſt ſavage appearance, and were very unwilling to truſt themſelves on board. The Captains and Officers made them preſents, and by ſigns invited them to trade; they accepted the preſents and ſome of them took courage and came upon deck; at the ſame time ſeveral of the ſailors went down into their canoes, in one of which they diſcovered the head of a man, which by its bleeding ſeemed to be freſh cut off; our men expreſſing a deſire to be more particularly ſatisfied, the Indians that remained in the canoes, with ſurpriſing dexterity, inſtantly conveyed it out of ſight, and thoſe on board obſerving the diſcovery, left the ſhip precipitately with viſible marks of diſpleaſure.

On the 10th, about eight in the morning, five canoes came along ſide the ſhip with about forty Indians to trade. They brought fiſh, which the ſhips company purchaſed at a cheap rate. Having diſpoſed of all their cargoes about noon, they went away ſeemingly in great good humour.

On the 12th, the weather continuing fair, and the Indians friendly, the Captain and Officers were preparing to go aſhore, when about nine in the morning no leſs then ten canoes [17] came padling down the ſound. They counted 120 natives of both ſexes, all of them armed as before. When they came along ſide they ſeemed to expreſs a deſire to be admitted on board; but the Captain not liking their countenance, gave orders, that a few only ſhould be admitted at a time; and even theſe behaved ſo rudely that the ſailors were obliged to turn them out, it having appeared that they came with a deſign to make themſelves maſters of the ſhip. However, when they found the crew was upon their guard, they became more civil, but not before a great gun was fired over their heads, which was the only thing that intimidated them. Being thus reduced to order, the people on board ſhewed them ſeveral trifling articles, ſuch as beads, nails, little claſp knives, ſciſſars, cloth, paper, and other trifles, which they exchanged with the Indians for their battle axes, ſpears, weapons of various ſorts, fiſh-hooks, and other curioſities, the manufacture of the country. Being viſibly diſappointed in their deſign, they ſoon departed, all gabbling together in a language, a word of which no one on board could underſtand. Previous to their departure, however, the Captain and officers made preſents to thoſe among them who appeared to be chiefs, which they accepted ſeemingly very well pleaſed.

[18]During the remainder of the month, when the weather was fair, parties of the natives came every day to traffic; the women were permitted to bring their trade on board, and a friendly intercourſe ſeemed to be eſtabliſhed on both ſides. The gentlemen went every day on ſhore, ſome to botoniſe, ſome to reconnoitre the country, ſome to ſhoot land birds, and each to purſue that diverſion with which he was moſt delighted. The ſick recovered faſt, the men were permitted by turns to go aſhore, but the main buſineſs of providing wood and water for continuing the voyage, of repairing the damage the ſhip had received, and of over-hawling the rigging, airing the powder, ſhifting the ballaſt, ſmoaking and cleanſing the ſhips hold, and between decks; theſe were matters of moment that were unremittingly attended to. In the mean time while they continued in harbour, the men were put to 2-3ds allowance of beef, pork, and oil; the two firſt articles they did not much regret, but of the laſt they thought it hard to be abridged, when having plenty of fiſh, they ſtood moſt in need of ſauce.

By this time the reader, it may be preſumed is in pain for the Reſolution, more than three months having elapſed ſince the Adventure loſt ſight of her. On the 18th of May, however, ſhe was ſeen to the great joy of the ſpectators, [19] at Jackſon's-Point, working up to the Sound, and at ſeven at night ſhe came and moored juſt by the Adventure. The pleaſure the ſhips companies felt at their meeting can only be conceived by thoſe who have been themſelves in like circumſtances; each were eager to learn the others ſucceſs, and each were as eager to relate as the others were to hear. The reader, however, is already acquainted with the progreſs of the Adventure; what happened to the Reſolution remains to be related.

It may be recollected that the ſhips parted company in a hard gale on the 29th of January in lat. 52 deg. 28 min. S. and in long. 54 deg. 4 min. E.

It ſhould ſeem that their inſtructions were to examine the ſeas to the ſouthward of Dieman's-Land and New-Zealand, from W. to E. as far as they were practicable; and for that purpoſe having ſailed ſo far to the ſouthward as to aſcertain with certainty the non-exiſtence of any continent, as far as the 68th degree of latitude in a ſoutherly direction from the Cape of Good Hope; they then changed their courſe to the north-eaſtward till they arrived in the 50th degree of ſouth latitude, when they again altered their courſe, ſteering eaſtward as long as they could keep the ſea.

[20]It has been already obſerved, that it was on the 17th of January, which anſwers to the 17th of July in our hemiſphere, that the ſhips reached the extreme point of their ſouthing, and now the ſummer, which is but ſhort in thoſe high latitudes, waſting apace, and winter approaching, rendered the utmoſt diligence neceſſary to complete what they had in view before the freezing ſeaſon came on. The Commodore, therefore, with great judgment and propriety, purſued his courſe to the eastward, being thoroughly convinced that if a ſouthern continent exiſted, it muſt be diſcoverable in that direction.

Theſe however are only conjectural ſurmiſes, ariſing from the courſes which the journals before me repreſent. It might therefore be the leſs neceſſary for the ſhips to keep company, as both being appriſed of the buſineſs about which they were employed, wanted no inſtructions from each other to purſue the main object.

It ſhould ſeem however that the Reſolution took a larger ſcope than the Adventure, keeping rather beyond the 60th degree, while the Adventure ſeems to have kept within it.

It were little more than a repetition of the Adventure's diſtreſſes to particularize the effects of the boiſterous weather that were felt [21] by the crew of the Reſolution on this traverſe; being ſometimes ſurrounded with iſlands of ice, out of which they could only extricate themſelves by the utmoſt exertion of their ſkill in ſeamanſhip; ſometimes involved in ſheets of ſleet and ſnow, and in miſts ſo dark that a man on the forecaſtle could not be ſeen from the quarter-deck; ſometimes the ſea rolling mountains high, while the running tackle, made brittle by the ſeverity of the froſt, was frequently ſnapping, and ſometimes rendered immoveable by the accumulation of ice and ſnow. Amidſt the hardſhips of ſuch a navigation, there is nothing ſo aſtoniſhing, as that the crew continued in perfect health, ſcarce a man being ſo ill as to be incapable of duty. Nothing can redound more to the honour of the Commander, than his paying particular attention to the preſervation of health among his crew. By obſerving the ſtricteſt diſcipline from the higheſt to the loweſt, his commands were duly obſerved, and punctually executed. When the ſervice was hard, he tempered the ſeverity of it by frequently relieving thoſe employed in the performance, and, having all hands at command, he was never under the neceſſity of continuing the labour of any ſet of men beyond what their ſtrength and their ſpirits could bear. Another neceſſary precaution was, that when the weather was fine, and [22] the breeze ſteady, he never ſuffered any of his men to be idle, but conſtantly employed the armourers, the carpenters, the caulkers, the ſailmakers, ropemakers, the other tradeſmen on board, as well as the foremaſtmen and profeſſed navigators, in doing ſomething each in his own way, which, though not immediately wanted, he knew there would be a call for before the voyage was completed. Having by this means no time for gaming, quarrelling, or rioting among them, he kept them in action, and puniſhed drunkenneſs with the utmoſt ſeverity: and thus by perſevering in a ſteady line of conduct, he preſerved their health, and was enabled by that precaution to keep the ſea till reduced to a very ſcanty portion of water; and till deſpairing of finding any new land, and fully ſatisfying himſelf of the non-exiſtence of any continent in the quarter which he had traverſed, he found it neceſſary to direct his courſe to Charlotte Sound, the place appointed, as has been obſerved, for the ſhips to rendezvous in caſe of ſeparation, but was not able to effect his purpoſe.

On the 22d of March however, having ſeen no land from the 22d of November, when he left the Cape, he came in ſight of the ſouthernmoſt part of New Zealand, that iſland being divided in the middle by a narrow ſound, which [23] gives name to the harbour appointed for the place of rendezvous.

On the 25th they made land; but the wind proving contrary, they were obliged to ſtand off all night. Finding in the morning the impoſſibility of bearing down to Charlotte Sound, the Captain gave orders to ſteer to Duſkey Bay, ſo named in his former voyage, ſituate in a bay between the 45th and 46th degrees of ſouth latitude, in which the whole navy of England might ride in ſafety. In this bay they found a harbour ſo cold, that they ran cloſe in ſhore, and ſteadied the ſhip by dropping an anchor ſhort, and faſtening a large bow-line to a tree on the land. A party was immediately ſent out to fiſh, who ſoon returned, having caught as many as were enough for a meal for the whole ſhip's company.

On the 26th the ſmall cutter was ſent out properly armed, in ſearch of a convenient place to wood and water: and having diſcovered a cove in which there was a fine run of water, and wood enough to ſupply a fleet, they ſhifted their ſtation, and moored the ſhip in that cove ſo near the ſhore, that for an eaſy communication with the land they erected a temporary ſtage, one of the chief ſupports of which grew right out from the beach.

On the 27th an Indian canoe came to the mouth of the cove, but was afraid to enter. [24] There were four or five Indians in it, who juſt peep'd in to look at the ſhip, and haſtily departed.

After dinner, Capt. Cooke, accompanied by Mr. Foſter, and attended by ſome of his officers, having ordered out the cutter, followed the courſe which the Indians ſeemed to take, and ſoon diſcovered the place of their habitation, which however they had deſerted. It was a wretched hut made of the bark and boughs of trees, and in it they found a fiſh ready roaſted, and wrapped up in leaves, and a net with which the fiſh was catched. The Captain left ſome trifles in the hut, which however the Indians never came to take away.

On the 28th a tent was erected for the coopers to cleanſe and repair the water caſks. The large cutter was every day employed in fiſhing for the ſhip's company; and a party was ſent out to kill water-fowl, of which they found great abundance.

On the 29th a forge was erected on ſhore for the armourer's uſe, to make and mend ſuch iron work as the carpenters wanted to repair the ſhip. All hands, but ſuch as had leave to fiſh or kill game, were buſied in different taſks about the ſhip. As yet none of the natives appeared, the Captain every day employed ſeveral hours in ſurveying the harbour, and Mr. Foſter in ſearching the mountains and plains [25] for ores and plants by land; but the weather being variable, and rain falling plentifully, retarded the progreſs of their reſearches, and frequently confined them to their cabins, to their no ſmall mortification.

On the 3d of April as the Captain, attended only by the boats crew, was taking his ſurvey as uſual among the iſlands, he perceived an aged Indian ſtanding upon a point of land that projected a little way into the ſea, and obſerving his motions, took notice that he ſeemed to wave a bough which he held in his hand, as an invitation for the boat to approach the ſhore. The Captain, who was totally unprepared for reſiſtance, was yet under no apprehenſions of miſchief from the friendly appearance of the old man; and fearleſs of danger, cauſed the boat's crew to put him on ſhore without a companion. As ſoon as he was landed, the Indian came forward, and ſaluted him by graſping him by the arms, and preſſing him face to face. He was accompanied by a young woman who held a kind of ſpear in her hand full eighteen feet long, and by two elderly women with three or four children. They ſeemed to be one ſecluded family, and by their behaviour, not wholly deſtitute of humanity. They were all habited nearly alike. Their hair, which was of a ſhining black, was tied in a knot upon the crowns of their heads. Their apparel was uniformly [...] [28] with the old man and his family to come on board the ſhip, but it was afterwards diſcovered that ſome ceremonies were wanting to ratify the peace. The Indian had brought his green bough, and preſented it to the Captain, but the Captain had omitted to preſent a green bough in return. This being underſtood, when the Captain went next to ſurveying, he took care to place himſelf in full view of the Indians place of abode, and, as he had ſuppoſed, the old man came again to the ſea-ſide. The Captain having prepared a bough on purpoſe, upon his approach waved it in the boat and immediately rowed to land. The Indian on his landing embraced him, and having a bough in his hand, made a long ſpeech, which though not intelligible, was yet delivered with ſo much grace and dignity, as would have done honour to an European orator. They then exchanged their boughs, and the old man made great profeſſions of friendſhip, which thoſe people have many ways of expreſſing unknown to Europeans, giving the Captain at the ſame time to underſtand that all manner of diſtruſt was now at an end.

From this time the old man came down to the ſhip without fear; and Mr. Foſter, and thoſe who were curious, had frequent opportunities of viſiting and converſing with the family, if that may be called converſing, when neither [29] party underſtand a word of each others language.

When the old man came firſt on board, he was attended only by one daughter, who was young and lively. The Captain received him with great cordiality, and the Indian ſeemed highly delighted, inſpecting and admiring every thing that was ſhewn him; both he and his daughter were invited to eat, but they declined that civility. While the old man was attentive to the manual arts about which the men were employed on board, the daughter was no leſs pleaſed with the playwardneſs of the ſailors, who endeavoured to make themſelves agreeable to her by ſtriving who ſhould make her the moſt acceptable preſents. Of all the arts the Indian ſaw the people employed about on board, none ſeemed to ſtrike him ſo much as the facility with which the ſawyers cut out their plank from the ſolid tree; he was ſo pleaſed with that operation, that he was very deſirous of taking the pitman's place himſelf; and being permitted ſo to do, but not ſucceeding to his wiſh in the performance, he ſoon gave out; but could not be diverted from attending to the ſawyers, preferably to any of the other handicrafts, the carpenter's excepted, whoſe buſineſs, however, being more complicated he could not ſo well comprehend.

[30]Having ſpent moſt part of the day in gratifying his curioſity; and the daughter being no leſs delighted than her father with the attention that had been paid her, it drawing towards evening, they both took leave and departed.

After ſome time it was diſcovered, that this family was the ſame, who at the firſt coming of the ſhip, deſerted their habitation on the ſhore, and betook themſelves to the covert of the woods. On this part of the iſland, which was the moſt ſoutherly, and conſequently the coldeſt and moſt unpromiſing, the inhabitants were but few, and lived in continual terror. The country at a little diſtance from the ſhore being rude, woody and mountainous, was their chief ſecurity againſt the incurſions of their northern countrymen, who if they can take them by ſurprize, carry them off in like manner as the ſavage beaſts of the foreſt carry off their prey when impelled by hunger. This very naturally accounts for the deſerted condition in which our voyagers found this part of the country; for though it abounded in fiſh, it was deſtitute of every other neceſſary of life, wood and water excepted. There were neither fowls nor animals, ſave ſea-fowls, of which laſt the natives were not dexterous enough to avail themſelves, and they had no other means of ſupplying their want of bread, but by [31] bruiſing the inner rind of a certain tree, and roaſting it to eat with their fiſh. How they procured cloathing, for cloathing they had, we are yet to learn. It is no wonder therefore, that at the approach of a veſſel of ſuch an uncommon magnitude and ſtructure as the Reſolution, a ſolitary family of which an old man was the ſole defender, ſhould on its landing appear to be frighted, probably expecting to be eaten, as they could not ſuppoſe ſtrangers to have more tenderneſs and humanity than their own countrymen.

On Monday the 19th the Captain and Mr. Foſter, took a tour up the country, and in their way viſited the old man and his family at their new habitation on the ſkirt of the wood, and were welcomed by them in a manner they did not expect. In leſs time than could well be imagined, they all appeared clean dreſſed in their manner, a fire was made by rubbing two ſticks together, which ſeems to be the univerſal method in uſe among the natives throughout the ſouthern hemiſphere, and they began dreſſing fiſh in a peculiar manner, intreating their gueſts at the ſame time to ſtay and eat; the fiſh they intended for the ſtrangers was differently dreſſed from that eaten in common by themſelves. Having prepared the fire they made a kind of bag of a broad-leaved ſea-weed, in which they placed a fiſh about the [32] ſize of a ſmall cod: this fiſh thus incloſed, they placed upon a kind of ſtage made of hard wood in the nature of a grid-iron, and underneath they ſupplied live-coals as often as thoſe firſt put under became deadened by the droppings from the ſea-weed; this they continued to do till the fiſh within became brown as if baked in an oven; and then they offered it to the ſtrangers in clean leaves gathered freſh from the trees. Their bread, as has been ſaid, was the inner bark of a tree cleanſed and bruiſed, and made up in a way peculiar to themſelves; and their ſauce was a ſea-weed, which, it was ſuppoſed, ſerved them both for ſalt and vinegar. The gentlemen declined the invitation with regard to eating, but were much pleaſed with the neatneſs of their cooking; ſome of the ſailors, however, were not ſo dainty; they not only eat with them a-days, but ſlept with them a-nights.

On Tueſday the 20th, the gentlemen being at a conſiderable diſtance from the ſhip ſurveying the different iſlands in the bay, and in ſounding the depths, and ſecuring a free paſſage for the ſhip as ſoon as ſhe ſhould be in a condition to ſail, they obſerved a company of Indians, who by their motions ſeemed to be more courageous than the family we have been juſt deſcribing. Theſe were armed after the manner of their northern countrymen, and [33] threatened hoſtilities by brandiſhing their lances. Their threats, however, had no other effect than haſtening the pinnace to approach the land. The Captain, with only a ſheet of white paper in his hand, jumped aſhore; and, after narrowly eſcaping being ſtruck with a launce which was thrown at him by a young warrior, continued advancing till he reached a tree, from whence having broken a bough, he made towards the natives, who were but few in number, and who ſeemed in a great meaſure to have vented their rage in the firſt attack. They met him with boughs which they dropt at his feet, and he inſtantly dropt his upon theirs. Peace being in this manner concluded, an exchange of ſome articles took place, and the Captain made preſents to the women of ſuch trifles as they were moſt likely to be pleaſed with, and invited them to follow him to the pinnace. They made ſigns in return for him and his followers to go with them; but obſerving more of their company peeping from the woods, he thought it moſt adviſeable to return on board. He was no ſooner embarked than they all came down to the water's edge, and being ſhewn ſeveral articles of ſmall value, they fancied moſt of them, and were gratified each with what he liked beſt.

At another iſland more Indians were diſcovered, who by waving a bird's ſkin, made ſigns [34] for the pinnace to land; but night coming on, and the pinnace being at a conſiderable diſtance from the ſhip, the Captain gave orders to ſteer for the cove.

Nothing remarkable happened till the 26th. The people continued to prepare for ſailing; and in the mean time the brewers were ſet to work to brew beer for the ſhip's uſe. This, it ſeems, had been ſtrongly recommended by Mr. M'Bride as a preſervative againſt the ſcurvy, and there is no doubt but it contributed, with the other means that were uſed, to produce that ſalutary effect. The crew continued in perfect health; and while their beer laſted, preferred it to every other liquor. Mr. M'Bride, indeed, preſcribes the wort as the moſt effectual remedy; but the beer while new may differ very little in its quality.

On the 28th the tents on ſhore were ſtruck, the wood that had been cut brought on board, and the water properly ſtowed in the hold; the ſails all bent, the ſhip unmoored, and all but the Captain, and thoſe who accompanied him, called to their ſtations.

On the 29th the ſhip was towed a-head, and at four in the afternoon was under ſail with a fine breeze. At five it fell calm, and at ſeven, there being no likelihood of advancing, came to, and anchored in 50 fathom water. At night ſaw a fire at a diſtance.

[35]On the 30th weighed, and came to ſail about eleven o'clock; but the wind dying away, the boats continued towing till night came on, when they again caſt anchor among the iſlands in 42 fathom water. The weather continuing fine, the ſhip's company were plentifully ſupplied with fiſh, and were in high ſpirits, hoping ſoon to meet their aſſociates in the Adventure at the appointed place of rendezvous.

May 1, they weighed anchor in expectation of taking advantage of a breeze of wind that ſprung up about nine in the morning; but that proving contrary, they ſtretched from ſhore to ſhore without making any conſiderable way, and in the evening turned into a little cove and caſt anchor. Here they catched abundance of fiſh, and killed ſome water-fowl. The ſhore was ſo bold, that in turning into the cove the enſign-ſtaff was entangled among the trees, and had it not been ſtronger than the branches that encumbered it, the ſhip's courſe muſt infallibly have been ſtopt. The boughs, however, gave way, and they caſt anchor cloſe by the ſhore.

May the 5th weighed and came to ſail, and with difficulty arrived at a convenient birth not above four little miles from the main ocean.

On the 6th at night they had a ſtrong gale, attended with thunder, lightning, and hail.

[36]On the 9th they hoiſted inn the launch, and cleared the decks ready for ſea, while the pinnace and ſmall cutter were employed in fowling and fiſhing for the ſhip's uſe.

On the 11th they weighed anchor, and got clear of the bay, to which the Captain in his former voyage had given the name of Duſky Bay, becauſe it being hazy when he paſſed it, he could diſcover nothing about it. The north point of this bay is rendered remarkable by five high peaked rocks which lie off, and give it the appearance of the four fingers and thumb of a man's hand. The harbour is conſiderably within land, and lies in lat. 45 deg. 47 min. S. and in long. 193 deg. 17 min. W.

Of the inhabitants of this part of New Zealand little can be ſaid, as the family already deſcribed was the only one with which the ſhips held any intercourſe. Other inhabitants there certainly were, but not in conſiderable numbers. The Captain in circumnavigating the northern and ſouthern diviſions of the iſland, had already remarked the different diſpoſitions of the inhabitants in the different parts of it. In ſome he found them fierce and bloody, hoſtile, and irreconcileable; in other places friendly, and ready to enter into traffic; at a diſtance from theſe the people they ſaw ſeemed indifferent and numerous, ſcarce thinking it worth while to ſuſpend their ordinary [37] employments but for a moment to take notice of the uncommon ſtructure of ſo rare an object as an European ſhip; and here, though the inhabitants muſt know the place where the ſtrangers lay, ſcarce any of them for more than a month came to viſit them.

On the 17th, having met with nothing in their paſſage worth relating, they came in ſight of the weſtern entrance of Charlotte Sound; but to their great aſtoniſhment found themſelves ſurrounded with water-ſpouts, ſome of them not more than three or four hundred yards from the ſhip's courſe, and having but little wind to clear them, were in the utmoſt terror, dreading their effects. It happened, however, providentially, that none of them broke till the ſhip had reached the Sound, where ſhe caſt anchor about ſeven at night within two miles diſtance of her conſort, the Adventure, which in the morning ſhe found almoſt in readineſs to ſail. Nothing could equal the joy of their meeting, when they were mutually aſſured that no diſaſter had befallen either.

They had now ranged an unfrequented ſea, from the firſt degree of eaſtern longitude (to which they had returned after directing their courſe to the ſouthward from the Cape of Good Hope) to the 167th degree of the ſame longitude, and having kept beyond the 45th degree of ſouth latitude, and within the diſtance [38] of the 48th without once ſeeing each other, or diſcerning the leaſt appearance of land, it may be affirmed with certainty, that no continent exiſts within thoſe limits, and that all the conjectures and poſitive aſſertions of former navigators, and the reaſoning of geographers and aſtronomers concerning a Terra Incognita Auſtralis, have not the leaſt foundation in truth, but are mere fictions unſupported by facts, and now fully diſproved by uncontrovertible demonſtration.

As the winter was now far advanced in that climate, it became neceſſary to haſten their departure, in order to purſue their diſcoveries as it was thought in the warmer climates. With this view both ſhips ſupplied themſelves with as much wild celery and other wholeſome greens as the people employed in that ſervice could gather, and the ſhips conveniently ſtow. The brewers likewiſe on board the Reſolution made a ſecond brewing of the malt they carried with them; but it does not appear that the Adventure was equally provided with malt.

On the 4th of June they celebrated his Majeſty's birth-day with great rejoicings. The marines were drawn up on ſhore, and fired in honour of the day; and the evening concluded with bonfires and fireworks, to the great aſtoniſhment of the Indian beholders.

[39]On the 7th of June both ſhips ſet ſail; but inſtead of ſteering an eaſterly and north eaſterly courſe, as our journaliſts imagined they would do, from the advanced ſtate of the ſeaſon, they continued their diſcoveries to the ſouth, ſteering E. S. E. for ſeveral days, till they came into the old courſe between the 47th and 48th degrees of ſouth latitude; but here they found rhe weather ſo rigorous and intolerably cold, that in lat. 47 deg. 26 min. S. long. 186 deg. 32 min. E. they changed their courſe E. by N. which ſoon brought them into a warmer climate. This was on the 16th of June, the very height of their winter.

On the 24th of June they found themſelves in lat. 43 deg. 58 min. S. and on the 27th in lat. 42 deg. 23 min. long. 196 deg. 30 min. E. in which direction they continued to ſail with little or no variation till the 15th of July, when the weather, which from the time of changing their courſe to that day, had proved moderate, began to alter; ſtrong gales came on, and what was ſtill worſe, the ſcurvy began to ſhew itſelf on board the Adventure, and in a ſhort time diſabled half her men. In all this long run they never had once ſight of land; ſo that now they had ranged more than half the ſouthern hemiſphere in various parallels, but all beyond any known tracks, and, except Van Deiman's Land, and New Zealand, both [40] already ſufficiently deſcribed, they had ſeen nothing but ſky and ſea.

On July the 16th they again changed their courſe E. N. E. till they came into a ſtill milder climate; and being happy in having moderate breezes and fair weather, on the 20th of July they found themſelves in lat. 31 deg. 34 min. and in long. 222 deg. 16 min. E.

On Auguſt the 1ſt the ſcurvy had prevailed ſo much on board the Adventure, that the men who remained in health were obliged to do double duty: and this was the more remarkable as there were but two men ill on board the Reſolution, one of a conſumption, the other of the rheumatiſm. They were now in latitude 25 deg. 11 min. and 226 deg. 57 min. E. ſailing a weſterly courſe for Otaheite.

The Adventure had loſt her cook by death, and there being no man to be ſpared on board that ſhip, one William Chapman, an old ſeaman on board the Reſolution, was appointed in his room.

On the 11th they diſcovered three ſmall low iſlands bearing W. S. W. diſtance about three leagues. They were now in lat. 17 deg. and long. 218 deg. 30 min. nearly.

Aug. 12, about five in the morning, the Reſolution made the ſignal for land, and was anſwered by the Adventure, when they ſaw a ſmall low iſland ſurrounded by a chain of [41] rocks, on which the Reſolution was near ſtriking before ſhe diſcovered her danger.

Every day now brought them in ſight of ſmall iſlands, of which Tupia is ſaid to have laid down a plan of more than 100 of his own knowledge, moſt of them within the Tropics.

On the 15th of Auguſt they came in ſight of Oſnaburgh-iſland, ſo named by the Dolphin, about a degree and a half to the eaſtward of Otaheite, and the ſame day came in ſight of Otaheite to their great joy.

On the 16th the weather being fair and calm, about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, the current carried them cloſe inn ſhore upon a reef of rocks, on which the Reſolution ſtruck ſeveral times, but received no material damage. The Adventure came to with the coaſting anchor, and hoiſted out her boats, and got two ſmall anchors and hawſers to warp her off ſhore; but in warping both hawſers broke, and they loſt both anchors; about ſix in the evening they ſlipt their coaſting cable, and came to ſea with the Reſolution. The Reſolution had likewiſe grounded, and had been obliged to cut her cable to get clear.

On the 17th both ſhips anchored in a bay at the north-ſide of the iſland; a great number of the Indians ſurrounded the ſhips on their firſt approaching the ſhore, and when they were made to underſtand that they came from Britain, [42] they cried out for Toobia, Banks, and Solander, their old friends, neither of whom being on board, the Captains ſhewed themſelves to the populace, who ſoon remembered them. They brought their boats loaded with fruits, but neither hogs nor fowls.

Tents were now erected and the ſick people from the Adventure carried on ſhore, who recovered faſt.

And here it muſt be obſerved that our journaliſt of the Reſolution frequently mentions ſmoaking the ſhip with bruiſed gunpowder and vinegar; bringing the hammocks from between decks, and airing them when the weather was fine; and waſhing and ſcraping the ſhip; whereas no ſuch important matters are taken notice of more than once by the journaliſt of the Adventure, though it can hardly be ſuppoſed that ſuch precautions could be omitted, were it not that the men on board the firſt ſhip ſuffered nothing by the ſcurvy, while thoſe on board the other were almoſt all affected.

While the ſhips continued in this ſtation, which probably was choſen as leſs exhauſted of live-ſtock than that where the Endeavour had lain ſo long in her former voyage, the people were friendly, and ſupplied the ſhips plentifully with fruits; but hogs and poultry were hardly to be purchaſed at any rate, nor indeed were any to be ſeen, except ſuch as were [43] brought in preſents for the Captains and gentlemen on board.

The crews of both ſhips had paid the utmoſt obedience to their officers while at ſea, yet here it was hardly practicable with the ſtricteſt diſcipline to reſtrain the exceſſes of the common men, or to keep them to their duty; it was not unuſual for three or four of them one day with another to be puniſhed for going on ſhore, and one day in particular no leſs than ten of them were puniſhed for the ſame offence; of whom ſeven were the Adventure's men, who were ſcarce recovered from their illneſs.

The inhabitants of this iſland have already been ſo fully deſcribed, that hardly any thing new can be added: One circumſtance indeed, ſeems to have eſcaped the notice of former voyagers, and that is their fidelity to thoſe who condeſcended to place confidence in them as particular friends. To ſuch there is no ſervice that they will not readily ſubmit, nor any good office that they will not willingly perform; they will range the iſland through to procure them what they want, and when encouraged by kindneſs and ſome ſmall preſents and tokens of eſteem, no promiſes or rewards will influence them to break their attachments, or to diſſolve the connections ſo formed, and generouſly ſupported; of this, our journaliſts had many proofs. This principle, however, is not to be underſtood to comprehend chaſtity [44] among the women; for theſe, by their education, being bred to the practice of ſenſual delights, pride themſelves more in giving pleaſure to many, than in being conſtant to one; their intercourſe with men generally begins before reaſon has any power in the government of the paſſions, and till they become mothers, their indulgence with men is held in no diſgrace. But there ſeems to be in nature ſomething inſtinctive that ſuperſedes the moſt confirmed habit, and inclines the mother to ſeek an aſſiſtant for the protection and preſervation of her young: She therefore attaches herſelf to the father, and the father takes pleaſure in protecting and providing for his offspring; hence it is, that there are very few inſtances of adultery among the natives of Otaheite; for where the commerce with the virgin is reſtricted by no law, there is no temptation to the gratification of the coarſer paſſions, with thoſe who are already, as it may be ſuppoſed, palled with their enjoyment. Thus it happens that a crime which is held in the utmoſt abhorrence in civilized countries, and which is productive of the moſt complicated evils, is ſo little known in this ſavage country, as Europeans affect to call it, as ſcarce to have a name. Jealouſy, though a ſelf-tormenting paſſion, and productive of a whole train of malignant effects in European countries, is here too without a [45] ſting. In ſhort, the ſubtile refinements which civilization has introduced among mankind, being utterly unknown among this happy people, their crimes are few, becauſe the propenſities of nature are univerſally tolerated, and there being no contention about monied property, and the earth yielding ſpontaneouſly almoſt all the neceſſaries of life, nothing remains puniſhable among them that is not here puniſhable in a ſtate of infancy, when every father is the legiſlature of his family.

Perhaps that propenſity to theft, for which the inhabitants of all the iſles in the South-Seas, are ſo laviſhly ſtigmatized by Europeans, may yet be found, upon examination, to be leſs criminal in them than it is generally eſteemed. Is it not very natural, when a people ſee a company of ſtrangers come among them, and without ceremony cut down their trees, gather their fruits, ſeize their animals, and, in ſhort, take whatever they want, that ſuch a people ſhould uſe as little ceremony with the ſtrangers, as the ſtrangers do with them; if ſo, againſt whom is the criminality to be charged, the chriſtian or the ſavage? He that ſets the example, or he that follows it. Perhaps their propenſity to thieving may be much leſs powerful among themſelves than the ſame propenſity is among us, where though the puniſhment attending it is the ſevereſt that [46] can be inflicted, yet the effects of it are not to be reſtrained even by the terrors of death. Why then upbraid the ſavage with thievery? Is it becauſe in other reſpects he ſhames the chriſtian by the innocence of his life? or that, having one crime in common with the chriſtian, all his other virtues are to be cancelled?

But even this crime, if in the circumſtances we have mentioned, it can be called a crime, was eaſily reſtrained. No ſooner were the conditions of traffic made known to them and perfectly underſtood, than they on their part honeſtly adhered to it. For a hatchet, they gave a hog, and for a nail a capon. Surely the ſtranger had no reaſon to complain of extortion againſt the native, nor to give him an ill name for ſupplying all that he wanted upon the eaſieſt terms. It ſhould ſeem, from the relations of our journaliſts, as well as from the reports of all former voyagers, that when the natives of the Southern iſlands were ſatisfied that the Europeans came with no hoſtile intentions to invade their country, they were not only willing to exchange with them what articles they ſeemed moſt to deſire; but to load them with preſents of the beſt things which their countries produced; of this the Britiſh voyagers received many proofs. When they met with oppoſition, it was from the formidable appearance they made, and from the apprehenſion the natives [47] conceived of their miſchievous deſigns; but thoſe apprehenſions once removed, all prejudices ceaſed of courſe.

On the 21ſt of Auguſt the ſhips prepared to ſhift their ſtations; and on the 25th they caſt anchor in Port Royal harbour, where the Endeavour had formerly been moored for more than three months. Here the chief articles of trade were hatchets, knives, ſciſſars, raſors, combs, looking-glaſſes, all ſorts of nails and iron, white ſtone beads, white ſhirts, &c. Grand necklaces, ear-rings, and artificial flowers, they paid little regard to.

It is remarkable, that the only animals our voyagers ſaw upon this part of the iſland, (a few hogs and dogs excepted) were rats, and theſe ſwarmed the moſt where the iſland was moſt inhabited; nay, they ſeemed to be cheriſhed by the inhabitants, who often fed them with fruit, and, inſtead of deſtroying them, kept them tame about their houſes, like as we do cats.

No ſooner were the ſhips moored in this harbour, than all hands were ſet to work in different employments. The aſtronomers tent and apparatus were ſet up on ſhore, where the Captains of both ſhips chiefly attended. Mr. Foſter went abroad every day in ſearch of new productions; the armourers and carpenters were buſied in repairing, the coopers in cleaning [48] and new-hooping the caſks; the waterers in filling them, and the woodmen in felling wood: in ſhort, every perſon was employed, and not a moment loſt in fitting out the ſhips for compleating their voyage.

It had been lamented in the courſe of the former voyage, that the commerce of the women with the European ſtrangers had entailed upon the natives the dreadful curſe that on the firſt diſcovery of America had depopulated half Spain; ‘"that the ſufferings of the firſt victims by the venereal infection had been intolerably grievous; that it cauſed the hair and the nails to fall off, and the fleſh to rot upon the bones; that it ſpread an univerſal terror and conſternation among them; ſo that the ſick were abandoned by their neareſt relations, leſt, like the leproſy, the diſeaſe ſhould ſpread by contagion, and they were ſuffered to periſh alone in ſuch miſery as till then had never been known among them."’ Yet it does not appear that any remains of it were diſcoverable among them on the arrival of the preſent voyagers, though many of the ſeamen felt the ſmart of the infection before their departure. There is, therefore, no reaſon to doubt but that the diſtemper may be generated by the impurities which uſually attend indiſcriminate commerce with a variety of men. Whether the inhabitants have [49] yet found out a cure, or whether the infected are ſtill ſuffered to languiſh in their former extreme of miſery, till they are relieved by death, does not yet fully appear: but one may reaſonably ſuppoſe, that had the latter been the caſe, the women would have been more cautious, and the men more vigilant in with-holding from the embraces of ſtrangers, thoſe who were to be the mothers of their future progeny. Be this as it may, the girls were as uſual without reſtraint; and the ſailors, as uſual, were ſufferers by their freedom.

On the 1ſt of September, the ſhips being repaired, the water and wood ſtowed on board, the ſick recovered, and the tents ſtruck, about four in the afternoon they unmoored and came to ſail. The reaſon aſſigned for thus ſuddenly quitting their ſtation was, becauſe no hogs were to be purchaſed; but a better reaſon ſeems to be the real one; and that was, that the ſailors in general were ſo taken with the delights of the place, and ſo ſmitten with the charms of their miſtreſſes, that it was apprehended many would have ſecreted themſelves on ſhore, and quitted the ſhips, had they imagined that the time of their departure had been ſo near; and of this they afterwards had a ſtriking proof, as ſhall be related in its place.

Having a favourable gale, they continued to ſteer to the N. W. all night.

[50]On the 2d of September they came in ſight of Huaheiny, one of the Society Iſles, off which they caſt anchor the ſame night. Early in the morning in working into Owhana Road the Adventure miſſed ſtays, and backed a-ſtern upon a reef of rocks on the larboard ſide in going in; but by the aſſiſtance of the Reſolution's boats, added to their own, they got off with very little damage. They then warped into the bay, and moored ſhip with the ſmall bower and ſtream anchors, and were ſoon joined by the Reſolution.

In this harbour ſtrict orders were iſſued, that none of the men ſhould trade for hogs or fowls. This precaution was taken to prevent the articles which they had on board to exchange with the natives from ſinking in their value, as they certainly would have done, if every one had been at liberty to give what he would, and to purchaſe what number he pleaſed. The Captain, therefore, very wiſely, in order, beſides, to avoid the confuſion that ſuch a market would neceſſarily produce, appointed purveyors, by which both ſhips were amply and plentifully ſupplied, and at an eaſy rate.

Here an accident happened that might have been productive of very ſerious conſequences. One of the gentlemen belonging to the Adventure, by name Mr. Spearman, having made an [51] excurſion into the woods by himſelf, was ſuddenly ſet upon by a party of Indians, who had obſerved and track'd him, and who, having firſt diſarmed him, not only ſtript and robbed him of his cloaths, and what things of value he had about him, but beat him becauſe he made reſiſtance. This outrage, had it been ſuffered to paſs unreſented, would certainly have been productive of other outrages of the ſame kind; and therefore it became neceſſary to purſue ſome means for redreſs. They were very unwilling, as no blood had yet been ſpilt, to proceed to extremities, and equally unwilling to ſuffer the offenders to eſcape with their booty. They therefore contrived to get the King and Queen into their power; and when they were in the height of their entertainment on board, Mr. Spearman appeared in the miſerable condition in which he had been left by the robbers. The Captain, pointing to Mr. Spearman, and addreſſing himſelf to the royal gueſts, gave them to underſtand, that the gentleman who ſtood before them had been cruelly uſed by a company of their people, and that he had loſt both his cloaths and his arms; at the ſame time he inſiſted, that ſtrict orders ſhould immediately be iſſued for apprehending the thieves, and for reſtoring every thing they had taken away, even to the minuteſt article: he added, that they muſt [52] conſent to be his hoſtages till juſtice was done upon the offenders. This ſpirited meaſure produced the deſired effect. The robbers were immediately purſued and taken. They had already parted their booty, and each brought back what had fallen to his ſhare. The next ſtep was to ſee them puniſhed; and, being brought on board, in order, as they thought, to be put to death, they were bound and ſtript. It is impoſſible to deſcribe the terrors expreſſed in the countenances of theſe poor ſavages on this occaſion; but juſt as they apprehended the hand of the executioner was to be lifted up againſt them, they were releaſed, and preſented to Mr. Spearman, before whom they crouched with ſuch different emotions of fear and joy as can only be conceived by thoſe who have been eye-witneſſes of their different geſtures. Mr. Spearman raiſed them up, and preſented them unhurt to their Majeſties, who received them with joy and gratitude, loading the ſhips with preſents after they were releaſed; for they were little leſs terrified while in confinement than the criminals who had committed the offence.

After this adventure the ſhips prepared to ſail, in order to viſit Ulietea, an iſland within ſight, and much more conſiderable than Huaheiny. Juſt as they weer ready to depart an Indian came on board, and offered to enter a [53] volunteer for Europe. It was debated whether they ſhould entertain him; but at laſt it was agreed to ſuffer him to proceed, as they might, perhaps, have an opportunity of landing him at ſome other iſland within his knowledge, ſhould he afterwards expreſs a diſlike to continue the voyage.

On the 7th of September about ſeven in the morning they unmoored, and about half after eight came to ſail in company together, directing their courſe weſtward with a gentle breeze and fair weather. When the ſhip was under ſail, and the laſt canoe going off, the Indian called to his countrymen, cried much, and gave them ſome nails as preſents to his friends; but in a day or two he appeared gay, and quite happy.

On the 8th they arrived off Ulietea, and about noon anchored in a fine bay, where they were immediately ſurrounded with canoes from all quarters, with hogs, fowls, fruits of various kinds, particularly bread-fruit, bananas, plantains, and cocoa nuts, with which the ſhips were plentifully ſupplied. As theſe fruits have all been repeatedly deſcribed by former voyagers, it is not our deſign to tire the reader with repetitions. Suffice it to ſay, that while their ſtock of fruits laſted, the men never taſted biſcuit; nor while they could get freſh proviſions did they ever eat ſalt. It ſeems, indeed, a very great miſtake, that the hogs purchaſed [54] here can neither be preſerved for any continuance of time alive or dead, nor their fowls any more than their hogs kept alive longer than the fruits of the country on which they are accuſtomed to feed, can be preſerved ſound; becauſe in that caſe a greater number than could be conſumed in a certain time, would rather be an incumbrance than a benefit;—but the contrary is the fact;—ſo that at this iſland and that of Otaha adjoining, they purchaſed a very conſiderable ſtock. Here likewiſe they filled their empty water-caſks, and having prepared every thing for a long voyage, on the 17th in the morning they ſet ſail.

The inhabitants of all the ſociety iſlands ſeem to be nearly alike in manners, cuſtoms, and diſpoſitions; the women, in particular, are without modeſty, and the men without courage; they have neither the manly boldneſs of the Ohoteroans, nor the ſavage fierceneſs of the New-Zealanders; but are in general an effeminate race, intoxicated with pleaſure, and enfeebled by indulgence.

They have amongſt them many ſports and entertainments, in ſome more refined than in others, and our voyagers have remarked a diſtinction in their features, ſuch as is obſervable in Great-Britain between the Engliſh and the Welch, and between the Lowland Scotch and the Highlanders; in general they aſcribe to the Ulietean ladies a portion of beauty and delicacy [55] ſuperior to the other nations in the Southern-Hemiſphere, and equal, if they may be credited, to the inhabitants of any nation upon earth. The journaliſts of the Reſolution, (ſpeaking by way of compariſon with the Otaheiteans,) ſay, the girls are here much fairer, and more loving. The writer of Captain Cooke's former voyage, ſays ‘"the natural complexion of the Otaheiteans is that kind of clear olive or brunette, which many people in Europe prefer to the fineſt white and red; the ſhape of the face is comely; their eyes, eſpecially thoſe of the women are full of expreſſion, ſometimes ſparkling with fire, and ſometimes melting with ſoftneſs; their teeth moſt beautifully even and white, and their breath perfectly without taint."’ The ſame writer relating [...] manner of his voyagers reception on viſiting a family at Ulietea, ſays, ‘"in the firſt houſe they entered, they found ſome very young women dreſſed with the utmoſt neatneſs, who kept their ſtation, expecting the ſtrangers to make them preſents, which they did with the greateſt pleaſure, for prettier girls they had never ſeen; there was one of them about ſix years old, ſtretched out her hand to receive the beads, which they offered her, and no princeſs in Europe could have done it with a better grace."’ This may ſuffice to give a general idea of the inhabitants [56] of theſe delightful iſlands, which it is more than probable are the ſame which Quiros, the Spaniſh voyager, dignified with the name of the iſles of Soloman. They lie between the latitudes of 16 deg. 10 min. and 16 deg. 55 min. S. and between the longitude 150 deg. 57 min. and 152 deg. weſt of London; or, as our voyagers compute, between the long. of 208 and 209 deg. E.

On the 18th both ſhips ſet ſail in company; they had on board 160 hogs, and a large quantity of bread, and fruit, and they had pleaſant weather, and a favourable gale; their courſe W. S. W.

Nothing remarkable till the 23d, when in lat. 19 deg. 6 min. S. and long. 201 deg. 53 min. E. they came in ſight of a low ſmall iſland bearing S. W. by S. Courſe W. S. W. wind S. E. At half paſt eleven in the forenoon hauled up, but not finding any entrance, bore away W. S. W. as before.

On the 25th ſaw ſome land birds, and flying fiſh, but no other ſigns of land.

On the 29th at noon, they altered their courſe W. half S. lat. 21 deg. 30 min. S. Both the ſhips companies in perfect health, except ſome who had been injured by their miſtreſſes at Otaheite.

October 1, the weather continuing fine, and the courſe W. by S. about two in the afternoon [57] they came in ſight of Middleburgh, a pleaſant iſland diſcovered by Taſman, in 1643, bearing from them about W. by N. At ſix ſhortened ſail, ſhifted the topſail, and hawled up to the ſouthward to keep to the windward, lay up S. by W. wind S. E. by E. The iſle at eight o'clock bore W. by S. half S Lay off and on all night.

Oct. 2, about five in the morning bore away under topſails. At ſix ſet foreſails, and ſteered W. and W. by N. between the large iſle and a ſmall one lying about three leagues to the ſouthward. When they had ſtretched two or three leagues to the eaſtward of this iſland, they could perceive land bearing about W. by N. diſtance about ſix or ſeven leagues. At eight in the morning got cloſe under the land, and anchored in 45 fathom water. In leſs than half an hour they were ſurrounded with Indians, ſome in canoes, and ſome ſwimming, but none came alongſide the ſhips, ſave one, who brought in his hand the piece of a root which they make much uſe as a token of peace, and preſented it to the Captain, who received it reſpectfully, and in return made the Indian a ſmall preſent. This he alſo received, and placing it upon the top of his head, ſat down on the quarter-deck, and held it there for the ſpace of half a minute. He ſeemed very deſirous of making himſelf underſtood, and wanted [58] much to enter into converſation with the Indian they had on board, but their languages were totally different.

It ſhould ſeem that Tupia, being a man of learning and of a ſuperior claſs to the common rank of people in his nation, and one too who had ſailed among the iſles, muſt have underſtood more languages than one, or it is not eaſy to conceive how he could have interpreted, as he is ſaid to have done, the language of the New-Zealanders to Mr. Banks and the reſt of his aſſociates, more eſpecially as New-Zealand lies at treble the diſtance from Otaheite that theſe iſlands do which we are now deſcribing. The inhabitants of Middleburgh are large and well proportioned. Our journaliſt of the Reſolution remarks, that both men and women wanted one of their little fingers; and Taſman who firſt diſcovered that iſland makes a ſimilar remark. They alſo agree in their deſcription of the manner of painting their bodies from the waiſt downwards, but they differ as to their hair, which our journaliſt ſays is black and frizzled; Taſman, that ſome wear it cropt and others long. Our journaliſts repreſent the men as bold and reſolute; armed with clubs of eight or ten pounds weight, and bows and arrows, and of a fierce and dauntleſs diſpoſition: Taſman, on the contrary, ſays, they were wholly without arms, friendly and peaceable; they [59] agree in their deſcription of the country, and of the plenty that abounds in it. Our journaliſts ſay that no country in the world has a more beautiful appearance, and Taſman that it is neatly laid out, and cultivated, and that it is delightfully interſperſed with walks and fruit trees. The natives readily exchanged their fruits for nails and pieces of cloth, and other articles of ſmall value; but upon enquiry there being no water to be procured, the Captain ſhortened his ſtay, and next day

October 3, weighed anchor and put to ſea, directing his courſe S. W. to an iſland about five leagues diſtant, to which Taſman gave the name of Amſterdam. Here both ſhips caſt anchor and moored.

During their ſtay great numbers of the natives came off daily with hogs, fowls, and fruits of different ſorts, which our voyagers purchaſed for trifles.

This iſland is level, the lawns of a beautiful green, and the woods abounding with fruit-bearing trees, ſo varied in colour that nothing in nature can afford a more enchanting proſpect. Here the ſhore is open, not ſurrounded with reefs of rocks as the Society Iſles are, but free and bold, from 25 to 35 fathom water, and of a ſhelly bottom.

Here the Captains were viſited by the chief men of the iſland; but when they went to return [60] the compliment on ſhore, taking a guard of ſoldiers with them for the greater ſtate, a quarrel enſued, which was not ended without blood ſhed. The natives, like almoſt all the other iſlanders in the ſouthern hemiſphere, are great thieves, and taking a fancy to the hats on the mens heads, it was not an eaſy taſk to prevent their ſnatching them away. This, however, the ſoldiers endeavoured to do by preſenting their bayonets, but that had no effect; the Indians attempted to wreſt the arms from the ſoldiers by force; but failing in their firſt attempt, the fray became general, and the ſoldiers were in danger of being overpowered by numbers. It therefore became neceſſary for the officers to interpoſe, who, finding no other means of preſerving good order, and commanding reſpect, gave the word for one file to fire over the heads of the croud, and the other file to reſerve their fire till it ſhould be ſeen what effect the falſe fire would have in intimidating the aſſailants. At firſt the Indians ſeemed to deſiſt, but ſeeing no miſchief had enſued from ſuch an uncommon report, they redoubled their attack, and were for preſſing on more vigorouſly, when orders were given to fire in good earneſt, by which two of the moſt forward among them were ſhot dead, and ſome others deſperately wounded. This at once put an end to the diſpute. The Indians [61] fled with the utmoſt precipitation, and ſome pieces were fired after them, not to hurt any of them, but to ſhew them that they were not out of the reach of European arms when at a conſiderable diſtance. This prevented every kind of inſult for the future. The people came afterwards and traded fairly. They brought hogs in great abundance, which the common men killed and ſalted, and fowls of an enormous ſize. They alſo brought bread-fruit, cocoa nuts by thouſands, plantains, and a fruit our journaliſts called ſhaddocks, as large as cocoa nuts, and of the colour and ſmell of lemons, all which they exchanged for trifles.

Being in ſearch of water, our voyagers had an opportunity of ſeeing and examining the houſes and plantations of the inhabitants of the inland parts of the country, and found them infinitely preferable to any in that part of the world they had yet beheld. Their houſes are far more commodious than thoſe of the iſlanders near the line: they were open indeed on one ſide like theirs, and at one end, but all the reſt were cloſe covered. They were divided into apartments, which ſeemed to be proportioned to the number of the family that inhabited them; in ſome there were more, in others fewer. In the villages, the lanes between the houſes were not wider than ten or twelve feet. Behind every houſe a piece [62] of ground was allotted at leaſt a hundred feet long: theſe little ſpots were planted with cocoa-nut trees on the outſide, and with plantains, yams, ſweet potatoes, and other vegetables within. Each plantation was divided from the next adjoining plantation by bamboo partitions from twelve to ſixteen feet high. Adjoining to theſe were lawns or fields, the graſs on which grows to the height of eighteen inches, and never loſes its verdure. With this graſs they cover the floors of their houſes to a conſiderable height, and over it they place mats very curiouſly woven, on which they repoſe themſelves in the day, and ſleep in the night. They always eat in the open air, and generally the maſter of the houſe eats alone; the wife and children eat together. They wear no cloaths from the middle upwards, neither men nor women; but they have a very curious kind of cloth which they tie about their waiſts with a platted girdle, and which hangs in folds nearly as low as their knees, and this is all the cloathing in uſe from the planter to the king. The women are tall, well-ſhaped, and ſtrongly made, and ſeem to employ themſelves in the buſineſs of the family. The artificers they did not ſee, but many there muſt be, as both the iſlands Middleburgh and Amſterdam are amazingly populous; and they have many very ingenious implements among [63] them that ſeem to require much ſkill and nicety in the conſtruction.

Our voyagers made ſigns that they wanted water, and the people with great ſimplicity and good nature brought them cocoa-nuts, and ſhewed them how to drink the milk. It ſhould ſeem that they knew no other beverage but the milk of the cocoa-nut.

The voyagers again made ſigns that they wanted water to fill their caſks to bear away on board; they ſhook their heads, and gave them to underſtand that they knew of none nearer than two days journey up the country. It was in vain, therefore, to continue their purſuit; they, like Taſman's people, dug wells, but the water they came at was not drinkable. Thus diſappointed, (if a diſappointment it may be called) when they could not but know (the officers at leaſt) that Taſman had ſearched the iſland before, and had apprized future navigators that they might ſpare themſelves the trouble of ſeeking for water, for on theſe iſlands none was to be had, the party ſent out on this ſervice returned on board.

On theſe iſlands the virtue of chaſtity has not yet taken place. The women, though leſs inviting, are not leſs willing to gratify ſtrangers with all they can deſire. But it ſhould ſeem from their remarkable populouſneſs, that their domeſtic concerns are under better regulations [64] among themſelves than has yet been obſerved among the iſlanders, whom our voyagers had lately left.

Nothing can be a ſtronger indication of female conſtancy than a numerous offspring; and as theſe people, it is probable, have never but once before been viſited by European intruders; their perſons may be pure, and their morals uncorrupted, ſo far at leaſt as reſpects their neareſt connections.

As to the complexion of theſe iſlanders, it is ſwarthy inclining to a ſooty black, their features are not diſagreeable, rather ſmall than maſculine, their teeth white and even, their eyes ſmall, and their noſes rather flat than prominent; but in that, as among us, they differ conſiderably; the make of their faces is in general round, and their ears large and long; the beards of ſome appear to be ſhorn, which ſeems a mark of diſtinction among the chiefs, probably, the ſymbol of prieſthood; but of that our journaliſts do not pretend to determine.

The articles of traffic on which they ſeemed to ſet the greateſt value, were pieces of linen cloth, white paper, ſcarlet ſhreds, and painted cottons. Nails, ſciſſars, knives, beads, and iron in all forms, bore a good price; for theſe they would part with whatever their country produced, natural or artificial; ſome of their [65] cloth ſeemed to be made, like the cloth of Otaheite, of the bark of a tree, and had the appearance of paper; another kind, made of India-graſs, was very ſtrong, and looked like fine matting; but their baſkets were moſt admired by our journaliſts, who think they cannot be equalled in the univerſe; they are made in a thouſand different ſhapes, and all ſo cloſe and compact, as to hold water as tight as a caſk. Their working tools, their proas or canoes, which differ from all others in being deck'd at both ends with flat boards; their nets for catching fiſh, their fiſh-hooks, and their domeſtic utenſils, their arms, and in ſhort all their mechanical inventions are each ſo curiouſly made and poliſhed, that it would require the utmoſt ſkill of an European artificer to excell them.

As theſe iſlands have never before been viſited by any European veſſel ſince their firſt diſcovery by Taſman, one hundred and thirty three years ago, and as Taſman's account of them is curious and in few hands, the reader, it is preſumed, will not be diſpleaſed with a tranſcript of it from Mr. Dalrymple's Hiſtorical Collection of Dutch Voyages to the South Pacific ocean, where alone it is preſerved with the greateſt accuracy:

"Theſe two iſlands, ſays the writer, bear N. E. and S. W. from one another, that to the ſouthward was the [66] higheſt, the northernmoſt being flatteſt almoſt like Holland. At noon a prauw came along ſide, with three tawney men of a ſtature ſomething above the common; one with his hair cropt, the other two wearing it long; they had only a ſmall covering round their waiſts; their prauw was narrow, but with a deck fore and aft, and their paddles of the common length, but the blades with which they paddled were broad in the middle.

"Having ſhewn a piece of linen to them, we toſſed it overboard, at which one of them dived and remained a long time under water, but brought it up, and when he was got into the prauw, waved it ſeveral times over his head by way of rejoicing.

"Afterwards, on their prauw's coming nearer to us, we threw them a bit of wood, with two large nails tied to it, and-handed to them a ſmall chineſe looking-glaſs, together with a chain of chineſe beads, which they took hold of by means of a long pole, and in return tied to it ſome of their fiſhing-hooks, which were made of a kind of mother of pearl.

"Some of them laid the beads, the looking glaſs, and the chain upon their heads, and he in the middle tied the nails about his neck.

"We handed another looking-glaſs to the iſlanders, in which they could ſee themſelves, the firſt being covered with a thin ſort of board [67] which could be drawn out; this they likewiſe very joyfully laid on their heads.

"We alſo ſhewed to them a cocoa-nut, and a fowl, and from the vocabulary of Schouten aſked the Indians about water, hogs, &c. but neither underſtood one another; however they pointed towards the ſhore, as if they would go and bring ſomething, and accordingly paddled away.

"In the afternoon our people ſaw a conſiderable number of men running along ſhore with little white flags, which ours took for enſigns of peace, and anſwered them by hoiſting a white enſign; on which came on board in a prauw four ſtout fellows, with their bodies painted black from the navel to the thighs, and their necks decorated with leaves hanging down from it; they brought with them a ſort of garment made of rind of trees, and likewiſe a ſmall white flag, which they placed in the prow of our boat. One of the prauw's wings being embelliſhed with variety of ſhells and other marine productions, our people conceived it to belong to the king, or chief of the country, and preſented him with a Chineſe looking-glaſs, a knife, a bit of callico, and ſome nails.

"Our people, the better to pleaſe them, drank a glaſs of wine to them, then gave them [68] a rummer-full, which they emptied, and carried the rummer away with them.

"Soon after came a number of prauws, ſome of which brought ten or twelve cocoa nuts, for which our people bartered nails; ſome even ſwam off to the ſhips with cocoa nuts.

"Afterwards came an aged man on board, who, amidſt all the reverence paid him by the others, ſaluted our people, bowing down his head to his very feet; and we were not wanting to return the compliment, making him beſides a preſent of ſeveral trinkets.

"Some, however, at going away betrayed a thieviſh diſpoſition, and towards evening not leſs than twenty prauws came about Taſman's ſhip, making a great outcry of Whor, whor, whor, and brought on board a hog with ſome cocoa nuts and yams, for which we gave them a wooden diſh and ſome copper wire, and afterwards exchanged beads and nails for ſome cocoa nuts, plantains, and yams.

"On its growing dark they all went away, except one who ſtaid on board all night.

"On the 22d of January, ſeveral men and women, young and old, came on board with all kinds of proviſions.

"The oldeſt of the women wanted the little finger of both hands, which was not the caſe of the younger, and our people could not come at the cauſe of this mutilation.

[69]"On the ſame day came again on board the before-mentioned old man with ſome preſents, which we returned with a ſattin gown, a ſhirt, and a hat. At noon we had alongſide thirty-two ſmall prauws, and a large one with a ſail and ſeveral men and women, who brought refreſhments and ſome unknown vegetables, likewiſe a garment made of rind.

"To the chief of eighteen robuſt men and their wives, Taſman made a preſent of a pair of breeches and a ſhirt, with which, on putting them on, he fancied himſelf wonderfully fine.

"Among theſe was a very large man having a St. Thomas's arm, and a woman with ſomething of a natural beard.

"Our trumpeter and fidler played ſeveral tunes, at which they expreſſed great ſurpriſe. The old man having by ſigns given them to underſtand, that they might have water for fetching, thereupon Taſman, ſent his boats for that purpoſe.

"In each long-boat went a mate, and with them ſkipper Ide Tjerkzoon Holman, and merchant Gilſeman in the barge. All our people were likewiſe well armed, though by the friendlineſs of the natives this precaution ſeemed unneceſſary.

"After rowing a pretty way, our people came to the north-eaſt ſide of the iſland, where at [70] length they met with three little pools, out of which they were obliged to take up the water with a cocoa-nut ſhell; but what was ſtill worſe, it proved not worth taking up.

"On this the iſlanders conducted our people farther up the country, and indeed to a moſt pleaſant place, where they ſeated them under a very ſightly belay on mats of a very delicate texture, and variety of beautiful colours, treating them with two cooca nuts, one for the chief, and one for our ſkipper.

"In the evening our people returned on board with a hog, and an account that no water was to be had; they however made ſo good a day's work of it as to get forty pigs, ſeventy fowls, and vegetables in abundance, for a few nails, a little ſail-cloth, and other trifles.

"Smoaking tobacco is not known here. The women from the waiſt to the knees wear a covering of matted leaves, but all the other parts of the body are naked, and their hair ſhorter than that of the men: the latter have a beard three or four fingers broad, with whiſkers kept carefully under a quarter of an inch in length. There being likewiſe no appearance of weapons among theſe people, ours were the leſs apprehenſive of any diſturbance.

"The day following, going aſhore to dig for water, we met with much better entertainment, [71] excellent fiſh, milk, and fruits, and in every reſpect their whole behaviour was very courteous and friendly.

"Our people farther bartered with the iſlanders for a conſiderable quantity of pigs and fowls; but in the afternoon, the ground being looſe, the trade-wind drove the ſhips out to ſea, but at night got ſafe again into convenient anchorage."

Whilſt they anchored here they alſo diſcovered two high but very ſmall iſlands, not above a mile or a mile and a half in circumference, about ſeven or eight miles to the north-weſt. Alſo a whole cluſter of little iſlands in almoſt every direction, and among others one about a degree to the ſouthward, where they found plenty of fine water, and every other neceſſary for the ſhip's uſe. This iſland they named Rotterdam; at which our voyagers ſeem not to have touched.

On the 7th of October our voyagers unmoored, and in ſo doing the Reſolution loſt her ſtream anchor.

On the 8th they came in ſight of the iſland of Pyllſtaert, diſcovered likewiſe by Taſman, bearing to S. W. diſtance about nine or ten leagues, courſe S. S. W. and S. by W. ſteering for New-Zealand; at ſix ſhortened ſail and killed two large ſharks.

[72]Nothing remarkable till the 15th, when in lat. 30 deg. 15 min. they ſaw ſome egg-birds, and ſea-birds, certain ſigns of land near, which proved to be New Zealand.

On the 16th killed three albatroſſes and ſome egg-birds. At ſeven in the evening ſhortened ſail.

On the 17th continued to ſee ſea-weeds; and ſaw alſo ſome ſmall birds that never fly far from land, probably ſome iſland lying off the northermoſt point of New Zealand.

On the 18th, courſe S. S. E. fine pleaſant weather, ſaw ſome white birds, ſea-weed, and albatroſſes. Lat. 33 deg. 47 min.

On the 19th the Reſolution had outrun the Adventure conſiderably. The weather, which had hitherto been clear and mild, now began to alter. The bread-fruit on board being all expended, the ſteward began ſerving out biſcuit as uſual to the ſhip's company. Latitude 35 deg. 59 min.

On the 21ſt came in ſight of New Zealand. The Adventure being a great way a-ſtern, ſhortened ſail, and the Reſolution joined company. At ſix paſſed Portland Iſland, and ſaw ſeveral people on the top of it. About ten the wind ſhifted to N. W.—Courſe W. S. W. At eleven the wind ſhifted to the N.—Courſe W. At twelve, courſe W. S. W. ran along ſhore all night.

[73]On the 22d at five in the morning made ſail, wind at N. W. courſe S. S. W. At ſix ſteered S. by W. all ſails ſet. At ten about eleven leagues to the northward of Charlotte Sound, there came off three canoes, one of which was curiouſly carved from head to ſtern. The figure that formed the head had ſome reſemblance of a griffin. On board of this canoe was a chief with a weapon in his hand like a ſerjeant's halbert, who, after ſome ceremonies had paſſed, came on board, and was ſaluted by the Captain of the Reſolution, and the other gentlemen. The head of this Chief was curiouſly tatowed, and his hair was finely ormented with feathers; it was tied, as their cuſtom is, in a knot on the top of his head; and the feathers of various colours were plaited all round in a very neat and elegant manner. Their chief pride ſeems to conſiſt in ornamenting their hair. After admiring the wonderful ſtructure of the ſhip, being ſhewn the cabin, the hold, the gun-room, and the other conveniences between decks, he next took a ſurvey of the rigging, the maſts, ſails, and ropes, and the dexterous manner of handling them. On being ſhewn ſo many novelties, he could not help expreſſing his aſtoniſhment by a variety of geſtures. At length, being deſirous of departing, the Captain preſented him with ſome cocks and hens, and gave him alſo a [74] boar and a ſow, and made him underſtand, that if he preſerved them alive, they would run into the woods, and would want no attendance, but would breed, and become numerous, and go in companies.

About twelve he took his leave, and by way of expreſſing the pleaſure he had received, began a war ſong, in which he was joined by his attendants, who performed all the motions and geſtures by which theſe people challenge their enemies to fight, an account of which has already been given by Parkinſon and others. The weather was now dry, the ſea calm, and the wind at W. S. W.—Courſe to ſouth. At three in the afternoon, the Reſolution being three leagues from land, the gale freſhened, and ſuddenly ſhifted to the weſt; the ſails being ſet, it preſently carried away the foretop-gallant-maſt, and ſplit the mizzen-topſail. All hands were called up, and employed in reefing the top-ſails, taking down the mizzen, and getting another up. Lay off and on all night; but in the morning had parted from the Adventure, and never joined again till their arrival in England.

On the 23d wore ſhip, and ſtood in for land. Cloſe reefed fore and main-topſails, and handed them. Blow'd a hurricane, attended with prodigious heavy ſhowers; but about nine the wind blew moderate, and the rains ceaſed. [75] Hoiſted a new top-gallant-maſt, and about eleven ſhook out all reefs. About ſix it again began to blow a ſtorm. Wind at weſt. Lay to all night.

On the 24th, a ſtiff gale, wind W. N. W. At nine cloſe reefed fore and main-topſails, and got the top-gallant-yard down. At eleven got ſight of the Adventure at a great diſtance on the lee bow. At two in the afternoon ſhook out the third reefs of fore and main-maſt-topſails; at four cloſe reefed them, and handed the mizzen-topſail. At ten at night, little wind and a great ſwell.

On the 25th in the morning moderate weather, but cloudy. Wind at N.—Courſe Weſt. About five all reefs out, topſails ſet, mizen-topſail ſingle reefed. At ſix blowed hard; at ſeven double reefed fore and main-topſails, and cloſe reefed mizen-topſails. Wind at W. Courſe S. W. At nine handed fore and main-topſails. At half paſt nine handed foreſail and mainſail, and hove her to on her bare poles. Blowed extremely hard. Wind at W. S. W. Latitude at noon 41 deg. 12 min. Split mizen and mizen-ſtayſail. At two in the morning the gale ceaſed.

The 26th moderate and hazy. Latitude at noon 42 deg. 17 min. At two in the afternoon ſet main-top-gallant-ſail. Little wind. [76] About eleven at night ſprung up a breeze at N. W.

The 27th ſtiff gale at N. W. At noon Cape Palliſer bore weſt half north, diſtance about two leagues. Latitude at noon 41 deg. 15 min. At one was only two miles to the northward of the entrance of Cook's Streights, (the opening to Charlotte Sound, the place to which they were bound.) No ſight of the Adventure. At ſeven in the evening handed topſails. Blowed hard. Wind at W. N. W. At eight wore ſhip off ſhore. At twelve wore ſhip.

The 28th at four in the morning wore ſhip, and ſet cloſe reefed topſails. Could juſt ſee Cape Palliſer a great diſtance to the windward. At eight wore ſhip.—Wind at N. W. Courſe W. S. W. Saw the Adventure lying to. Latitude at noon 42 deg. 14 min. Handed the topſails and mainſail, and hove her to under foreſail and mizen ſtayſail. Split the mizen. At three in the afternoon wore ſhip, and ſet cloſe reefed fore and main-topſails. At four ſet main-top-maſt-ſtayſail. Wind at N. At twelve at night wind at N. by E. Courſe N. W. by W. leſs wind, and clear weather.

The 29th ſhook out the ſecond and third reefs of fore and main-topſails. Set mizen-topſail, ſingle reefed middle-ſtayſail and jibb. Saw ſeveral water ſpouts. At ſeven carried [77] away the gibb-ſtay. At half paſt ſeven ſhook out one reef of fore-and-main-top-ſails, and got top-gallant-yards up. At eight ſet fore-and-main-top-gallant-ſails, and made for Cape Palliſer. Lat. at noon 41 deg. 45 min. At two ſet main-top-gallant-ſtay-ſail. Fine clear weather and ſmooth water. Adventure a great diſtance aſtern. Wind at N. At nine in the evening the wind ſhifted to the W. Courſe S. W.

The 30th at five in the morning it blowed a hurricane from the N. W. At eight Cape Cambell bore N. W. diſtance twelve or thirteen leagues. The ſnowy mountains ſoon after came in ſight, bearing W. by N. ſix or ſeven leagues diſtance. At noon they were in lat. 24 deg. 14 min. S. with the wind at N. N. W. their courſe W. They were now driven as far to the ſouthward of their deſtined port as they had before been labouring northward of it; and though they had been once within two miles of the Straits, they were now many leagues diſtant from it. The gale ſtill continuing, they began to look for ſome harbour, to take ſhelter till the weather ſhould prove more favourable; but they found the ſhore in general craggy, the land mountainous, and the hills already covered with ſnow. At three ſounded about ſix miles from the land. Found 35 fathom water. At four ſet fore and main-top-ſails, [78] cloſe reefed, and tacked ſhip and ſtood off. Wind at N. Courſe E. N. E. At eight blowed hard, and ſplit the fore-top-maſt-ſtay-ſail.

The 31ſt no ſight of the Adventure, nor of the land. Still blowing hard. At ſix in the morning wore ſhip to ſtand in for the land. Lat. at noon by obſervation 42 deg. 18 min. At ſeven in the evening hard gales at N. by W. handed fore-ſail and main-ſail, and hove her too with her head to the weſtward under a mizen-ſtay-ſail. At eleven came to ſail.

Nov. 1ſt, at four in the morning, got fore and main-top-gallant-yards up. At half after four carried away the main-top-gallant-yard in the ſlings. At five ſet ſtudding ſails fore and aft, and got up another main top-gallant-yard. Lat. at noon 41 deg. 52 min. At three in the afternoon Cape Cambell, the ſoutherly point of land, as Cape Palliſer is the northerly point, which two points form the entrance of Cook's Straits, bore S. W. diſtance about two leagues. At four the wind ſhifted to the N. N. W. At five little wind. At ſix a ſtiff breeze at N. W. Charlotte Sound was now not more than ten or eleven leagues diſtant.

On the 2d at five in the morning ſtood in to the Sound with a briſk gale at N. W. by W. to look for a ſafe place to anchor. Saw a [79] ſmall entrance or bay a little to windward. About noon ſtood cloſe into land, and anchored in twelve fathom water, black ſandy clay. While they lay here, ſeveral canoes came along ſide; ſome of the Indians appeared to be the ſame who came off from land on the 22d paſt, as has been already related. They brought dried fiſh with them, and five of them ventured on board, to whom the Captain made preſents. Being very deſirous of introducing a breed of hogs and poultry upon the iſland, among other things of leſs value the Captain gave them another ſow and boar and ſome cocks and hens. He alſo gave them a parcel of yams, and ſhewed them the manner of planting them. About three in the afternoon they weighed, and ſteered along ſhore through the Straits, and about eight in the evening anchored in the mouth of Charlotte Sound.

On the 3d at five in the morning they weighed, and came to ſail; and about eleven moored ſhip in a convenient birth to wood and water. They had hardly dropt anchor before ſeveral canoes came with fiſh to ſell, which the crew purchaſed, as uſual, at very eaſy rates.

On the 4th all hands were employed in getting the tents on ſhore, for the uſe of the different artificers who were to be employed in repairing the damage the ſhip had received in [80] ſuch a perilous navigation. It can ſcarce be credited by any but a ſailor, that a ſhip could be toſſed to and fro for twelve or fourteen days together in getting into a ſtrait not leſs in width than the channel that divides England from France; and that, notwithſtanding they were almoſt every day in ſight of it, they ſhould be unable to reach it with the utmoſt exertion of their ſkill in ſeamanſhip. Yet ſo it was with the Reſolution; and much worſe with the Adventure, as will ſoon be made appear.

[But here, if a bye-ſtander may be permitted to make a remark, it ſeems not very eaſy to aſſign a reaſon for Capt. Cooke's return to New-Zealand, after having already viſited that country, and after having, in the height of winter, that is, about the middle of June, run as far as the 48th degree of ſouthern latitude, and after continuing in that courſe, with ſome variation to the northward, till the 29th of June, at which time we find him in the 43d degree of ſouthern latitude, and in the 197th degree of eaſtern longitude, more than 23 degrees to the eaſtward of Cape Palliſer; in which latitude of 43, with ſtill a little variation to the northward, he ſeems to have continued his courſe till the 15th of July, when we find him in the latitude of 42 degrees, and in the longitude of 223 deg. 23 min. E. [81] no leſs than 47 degrees to the eaſtward of Cape Palliſer; ſo that having now ſailed in an unfrequented ſea farther by many degrees to the ſouthward than any navigator had ever before attempted, and even beyond where any of them ſuppoſed the northern coaſt of a continent to lie, there did not ſeem any abſolute neceſſity for him to retrace what he himſelf had already examined; nor indeed to retrace the courſe which Taſman had pointed out from New-Zealand to the tropical iſlands which he diſcovered, one of which was moſt unqueſtionably the iſland which Commodore Byron diſcovered, and called by the name of King George's Iſland, unleſs his rout was ſettled at home before he ſet out, and he was confined to that rout. And indeed, what ſeems to render the motives of this navigation ſtill more obſcure, is, that Capt. Cooke does not ſeem to have made any efforts towards any new diſcovery in his track from Otaheite to New-Zealand, but to have contented himſelf with viſiting the iſlands of Middleburg and Amſterdam, as they lay in a manner full in his way, and as they helped to recruit his ſtock of freſh proviſions.

If the opinion of Dr. Campbell, the editor of the laſt edition of Harris's Collection of Voyages, may be allowed any weight in this queſtion, the iſlands of Rotterdam, Middleburg, [82] and Amſterdam, of which iſlands a deſcription has juſt been given, are the moſt happily ſituated of any in the world, for making new diſcoveries, particularly the former, which is ſaid to be a perfect paradiſe, abounding in every thing that voyagers can poſſibly want, and having plenty of freſh water, which article alone can be had at New-Zealand, wood and wild cellery excepted; the ſupplying of which is the only oſtenſible reaſon that can be aſſigned for the return of the ſhips to New-Zealand.

But it ſhould ſeem that navigating thoſe unfrequented ſeas farther than any navigator had ever before attempted, would by no means content Captain Cooke; who, in order to preclude all future conjectures concerning an imaginary continent, has carried his diſcoveries to the utmoſt verge of ſouthern latitude, beyond which, it may be preſumed, no ſucceeding navigator will ever attempt to extend his enquires. At his firſt ſetting out from the Cape of Good Hope, he ran as far to the ſouthward as was practicable, as we have already related. We have traced him returning to a practicable parallel of latitude, namely, between the 48th and 50th degrees S. and in thoſe parallels have accompanied him 175 degrees eaſtward. We ſhall hereafter obſerve him, after having run 180 degrees of longitude, or half the extent of the Southern Hemiſphere, ſtill running farther [83] to the South than he had reached in his firſt run from the Cape; and we ſhall endeavour to point out the ſequel of his track with as much exactneſs as we have traced the beginning.

That New-Zealand is one of the moſt proper ſtations that can be choſen from whence to proceed on diſcoveries to the ſouthward, notwithſtanding what we have before obſerved from Campbell, is not to be denied; for beginning the longitude from the meridian of London, and purſuing it in a parallel between 47 and 48 degrees of ſouthern latitude, in an eaſterly direction, when half the ſouthern hemiſphere is nearly paſſed, the navigator will find himſelf within ſight of the South Cape of New-Zealand; but as that would be an improper climate to winter in, what has he to do but to bear down to Charlotte Sound, a ſafe harbour, in a middle climate, where he is neither in fear of being annoyed by the intenſe heats of the ſummer, nor frozen up by the rigorous cold of the winter; and where in the winter he may prepare himſelf by refitting his ſhip, and getting proviſions from the warmer climates, for purſuing his diſcoveries in the other half of the Southern Hemiſphere early in the ſummer.

That this was, in part, the plan which Captain Cooke had in view, appears from his progreſs, but ſtill the main objection recurs, why, (when diſcovery was his only object) ſail ſo [84] many hundred leagues in a known track as from Otaheite to New-Zealand, without deviating either to the right hand or to the left in ſearch of what he was ſent abroad to find? It may, indeed, be urged, that the ſpring was already ſo far gone before he left the Society iſles, that there was but barely time enough remaining to reach the deſtined port, before the proper ſeaſon for beginning his ſouthernly diſcoveries commenced. This indeed appears to be true, but why go to the Society Iſles at all? They were already ſufficiently known, and there was an immenſe tract of unfrequented ocean to the north-weſtward of New-Zealand to examine, where no ſhip has ever yet ſailed; and where no doubt there are many iſlands equally large, equally fruitful, and where the inhabitants are equally hoſpitable with thoſe of Otaheite. In this purſuit, ſuppoſing the worſt, that no ſuch iſland had been found, the ſhips, in that caſe, might have directed their courſe to the iſland of Rotterdam, where Taſman found every thing ſo abundant, and the inhabitants ſo ready to ſupply his wants, that the fear of a diſappointment could have no weight; his motive, therefore, for purſuing his diſcoveries in the winter of 1773, to the ſouth-eaſtward, eaſtward, north-eaſtward, and afterwards to the weſtward to arrive at Otaheite, among the well known iſlands there, rather than to range [85] the happier climates to the north-weſtward, weſtward, northward and north eaſtward of New-Zealand, remains to be accounted for; for we confeſs we can ſee no reaſon for his purſuing an eaſterly courſe for more than 45 degrees beyond the parallel of 41 degrees, in 1733, and afterwards purſuing the ſame eaſterly courſe for more than 90 degrees in the ſummer of 1774, beyond the parallel of 50 degrees; nay for the greateſt part of the way beyond the parallels of 60, and 64, and ſome part even beyond the 70th degree.

But to return from this digreſſion, which the diſtreſſes that both ſhips experienced on recovering Charlotte-Sound on the coaſt of New-Zealand gave occaſion to, we ſhall leave the Reſolution ſafely anchored in Charlotte-Sound, and take up the Adventure where the two ſhips parted company.

On the 22d of October being in lat. 40 deg. 15 min. and in long. 176 deg. 30 min. E. the wind blowing hard, the Adventure brought to under the foreſail, main and mizen ſtay ſails.

On the 24th they got ſight of the Reſolution about eleven in the forenoon three or four leagues to leeward. At two in the afternoon they wore ſhip, made ſail, and bore down to the Reſolution. Lat. 41 deg. 31 min. long. 175 deg. 28 E.

[86]On the 25th the gale increaſed, with rain, and ſudden ſqualls. About ten in the forenoon they handed the topſails and courſes; and at eleven brought to under the mizen-ſtayſail. At noon latitude 42 deg. 16 min. long. 174 deg. 58 min. E.

On the 26th freſh gales, and cloudy weather. At four in the morning wore ſhip, and made ſail. At night loſt ſight of the Reſolution in lat. 42 deg. 33 min. long. 174 deg. 42 min.

On the 28th hard gales, and ſqually. At ſix in the morning they again got ſight of the Reſolution, bearing N. W. by W. diſtance about ſeven or eight miles. At eight they ſaw Cape Palliſer, bearing N. W. by W. diſtance nine or ten leagues. At half paſt nine they wore ſhip. At three in the afternoon they wore ſhip, and made ſail. Latitude at noon 42 deg. 18 min. long. 175 deg. 10 min.

On the 29th freſh gales and ſqually, with thunder, lightning, and rain. This day they imagined the Reſolution had got into harbour, as they never ſaw her afterwards. Latitude at noon 42 deg. 24 min. S. longitude 175 deg. 49 min. E.

On the 30th, the rough weather continuing, at five in the morning they wore ſhip. At noon brought to under the main, fore, and mizen-ſtayſail; but at three in the afternoon, [87] the weather being more moderate, they made ſail; at five wore ſhip; at ſix they came in ſight of Cape Palliſer, bearing N. W. by W. diſtance about ſeven or eight leagues. At half after eight wore ſhip, and brought to. At ten they wore ſhip; but before morning they were driven out of ſight of land.

On the 31ſt, the weather ſtill tempeſtuous, at nine in the morning they ſet the foreſail and main-topſail. At noon handed the main-topſail, wore ſhip, furled the courſes, and brought to under the main and mizen-ſtayſails. At three in the afternoon the weather became more moderate, they ſet courſes and topſails, and at eleven at night wore ſhip.

On the 1ſt of November the weather became more tempeſtuous.

On the 2d it thundered, lightned, and rained. At five in the morning they came again in ſight of land, Cape Palliſer bearing W. two-thirds N. diſtance about nine leagues. Their water being now almoſt exhauſted, and no proſpect of making the deſtined harbour, every man's allowance was reduced to one quart a-day.

On the 4th the weather became moderate; and being within a few miles of the ſhore, the Indians came off in their canoes, and brought craw-fiſh in great plenty, which were ſoon bought up by the ſhip's crew.

[88]On the 5th it blew a ſtorm. At one in the morning they wore ſhip, handed the courſes, and brought to. At ſeven Cape Palliſer bore N. E. three-fourths N. diſtance not above five or ſix miles; but after many ineffectual efforts to make Cooke's Straits, their water being nearly ſpent, and the men worn out with fatigue, the Captain found it expedient to make for Talaga-bay, to refreſh and procure a ſupply.

On the 9th they came a-breaſt of that bay, in lat. 38 deg. 22 min. S. long. 179 deg. E. and at eleven in the forenoon anchored in 12 fathom water. Though little was to be expected here from the account given by Capt. Cooke in his former voyage, yet the ſhip was hardly moored when great numbers of the natives came along ſide in their canoes, but our journaliſt has left us to gueſs whether they came to trade, or only to gratify their curioſity. It was at an iſland in this bay where the Endeavour's people obſerved the largeſt canoe they met with during their whole voyage, of which Mr. Parkinſon has given a cut. It was, according to account, no leſs than ſixty-eight feet and a half long, five broad, and three feet ſix inches high; it had a ſharp bottom, conſiſting of three trunks of trees hollowed; of which that in the middle was the longeſt; the ſide planks were [89] ſixty-two feet long in one piece, and were ornamented with carvings not unlike fillegree work, in ſpirals of very curious workmanſhip, the extremities whereof were cloſed with a figure that formed the head of the veſſel, in which were two monſtrous eyes of mother of pearl, and a large heart-ſhaped tongue, and as it deſcended it ſtill retained the figure of a monſter, with hands and feet carved upon it very neatly, and painted red. It had alſo a high peaked ſtern, wrought in fillegree, and adorned with feathers, from the top of which depended two long ſtreamers made of feathers, which almoſt reached the water." From this deſcription one might be tempted to ſuppoſe theſe canoes to be the veſſels, and this to be the Great Counrty lying to the ſouth of which Quiros received intelligence at Taumaco; and where Toobia ſaid they eat men, and had ſuch large ſhips that the Engliſh ſhip was ſmall in compariſon. Be this as it may, our voyagers ſhortened their ſtay in this harbour, being impatient to join the Reſolution in order to continue the voyage.

On the 10th of November, the boats were manned, and ſent on ſhore for a ſupply of wood and water; and a guard of marines was ordered to accompany them in order to protect from inſult the people employed on thoſe ſervices. All the remaining part of the crew [90] were employed in ſtopping leaks, and repairing the rigging, which was now in a moſt ruinous condition.

On the 11th having got on board a ſmall ſupply, the weather tolerable, and the wind fair, they hoiſted in the boats, unmoored, and at noon weighed and came to ſea.

On the 12th hard gales and ſqualley with rain. At eight in the morning they bore up, but could make no way; ſo were again obliged to run into Talago-bay. At noon they came too, moored, and hoiſted out the boats to increaſe their ſupply of wood and water.

The 13th they were employed as before.

On the 14th the ſurff ran ſo high that the boats could not make land.

The 15th was employed in getting on board more wood and water.

And on the 16th at three in the morning they unmoored, and before ſix got under way and came to ſea.

From this time to the 28th, nothing but tempeſtuous weather; in which their rigging was almoſt all blown to pieces; and the men quite worn down with fatigue.

On the 29th the water which they had obtained with ſo much labour before being nearly expended, they were again reduced to the ſcanty allowance of a quart per man a day.

[91]On the 30th, by good providence, the weather becoming more moderate, they made Cooke's Straits; and at three in the afternoon caſt anchor in Charlotte Sound.

The firſt enquiry they made was, Whether any inſtructions had been left for them by the Reſolution; and upon examination, a letter was found, importing, that the Reſolution had ſet ſail ſix days before, but as to any other intimations it might contain, our journaliſt is altogether ſilent.

On the 1ſt of December the tents were carried on ſhore, the ſick landed, the armourers forge put up; and in ſhort every preparation made to refit the ſhip, and to recover the numerous ſick. Here the Indians came on board with great familiarity, brought fiſh and what elſe they had to ſell, and ſeemed to behave with great civility, and to traffic honeſtly; but this behaviour was but of ſhort duration.

On the 13th in the night a party of them came down and robbed the aſtronomer's tent of every thing they could carry away. This they did ſo quietly, that they were not ſo much as heard, or ſuſpected, till the aſtronomer getting up to take an obſervation, miſſed his inſtruments, and charged the centinel with being the robber. This brought on a pretty [92] ſevere altercation, during which they ſpied an Indian creeping from the tent, and Mr. Bailey fired at and wounded him, but he made ſhift, notwithſtanding, to run into the woods and eſcape. The report of the gun had alarmed his companions, who likewiſe, inſtead of taking to their canoe, fled into the woods, leaving their boat with moſt of the things that had been ſtolen, in it, a-ground upon the beach. This it is more than probable laid the foundation of that dreadful cataſtrophe which ſoon followed.

On the 17th while they were preparing for their departure, the large cutter, manned with ſeven ſeamen, under the command of Mr. John Roe, the firſt mate, accompanied by Mr. Woodhouſe, midſhipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's ſervant, was ſent up the Sound to Graſs Cove, to gather greens and wild celery.

At two in the afternoon the tents were ſtruck, every thing got on board, and the ſhip made ready for ſailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, the captain and officers began to expreſs great uneaſineſs, fearing ſome treachery from the ſavages. They ſat up the whole night in expectation of her arrival; but to no purpoſe.—At day-break, the captain ordered the long-boat [93] to be hoiſted out, and double manned, with Mr. Burney, ſecond lieutenant, Mr. Freeman, maſter, the corporal of the Marines, with five private men, all well armed, with plenty of ammunition, two wall-pieces, and three days proviſion. Thus equipped, about nine in the morning they left the ſhip, and rowed and ſailed for Eaſt Bay, keeping cloſe in ſhore, and examining every creek they paſſed, to find the cutter: they continued their ſearch till two in the afternoon, when they put into a ſmall cove to dreſs dinner.—While that was getting ready, a company of Indians were obſerved, ſeemingly very buſy on the oppoſite ſhore, upon which they left their dinner, and rowed precipitately to the place where the ſavages were aſſembled. Upon their approach the Indians immediately fled; they followed them cloſely to a little town, which they found deſerted, but while they were employed in ſearching their huts, the Indians returned, and made a ſhew of reſiſtance, but ſome trifling preſents being made their chiefs, they were very ſoon appeaſed. However, on their return to the boat the ſavages again followed them, and ſome of them threw ſtones. After they had dined they renewed their ſearch, and at proper intervals kept firing their wall-pieces, as ſignals to the [94] cutter, if any of her people ſhould happen to be within hearing.

[depiction of the landing of part of the Adventure's crew, New-Zealand]

From the account which the cannibals gave of this maſſacre to Capt. Cooke on his third viſit to this iſland, there was reaſon to believe that they had not only murdered the crew, but made prize of the ſhip: and they gave it as a reaſon for their outrage, that the ſtrangers had been the aggreſſors, and that ſome of their countrymen had been firſt put to death without provocation. This, there is no doubt, alluded to the Indian ſhot by the aſtronomer's ſentry, as already related.

It was the 19th of December before the Adventure could be in readineſs to follow the Reſolution, who, on the 25th of November ſet ſail from Charlotte Sound; and after ſpending ſome time in a fruitleſs ſearch after the Adventure, took her departure from New Zealand on the 26th, and purſued her voyage.

It was however the 22d before the Adventure got clear of land; and then the cloaths and effects of the ten men who were murdered and eaten, were ſold before the maſt, according to the old ſea cuſtom.

[98]Nothing material happened till January the 1ſt, when ſtrong gales and rainy weather came on, and when, by reaſon of the lofty ſeas, they were obliged to lye to. Towards night the violence of the gale abated, and the wind being at weſt, and their courſe S. S. E. they made ſail, and proceeded on their voyage at a great rate.

On the 11th of January, being in latitude 58 deg. 17 min. S. and in long. 212 deg. E. they came in ſight of ſeveral iſlands of ice. The thermometer 34 deg.

From the 12th of January till the 31ſt of the ſame month, it ſhould ſeem that they proceeded nearly in the ſame courſe, ſteering to the eaſtward with half a point to the ſouth, till on the 1ſt of February they found themſelves in 61 deg. 20 min. S. and to the eaſtward of Cape Horn, which was no ſmall pleaſure to the common ſeamen, who having made no diſcovery in this long run, began to rejoice at the thoughts of ſoon ſeeing their own country, the dangers of diſcovery being now paſt. They were the more elated as thinking themſelves the firſt who had ever paſſed Cape Horn in an eaſterly courſe; but in this they were miſtaken.

On the 3d their allowance of proviſions was augmented to the full complement, and their brandy to an allowance and a half, on account [99] of the ſeverity of the weather, which, though the ſummer was but juſt paſt its prime in that hemiſphere, was yet ſo ſevere that it froze daily, with ſnow and ſleet.

On the 26th of February they paſſed the meridian of London in lat. 54 deg. 24 min. S. and in ſurrounding the globe to the eaſtward, having gained a day, they altered their ſtyle, calling this the 27th. From this time to the 25th of March the weather proved rough and ſtormy; but the wind favouring, they continued their courſe to the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 17th came in ſight of Table-bay, bearing eaſt about ten or twelve leagues.

On the 19th of March they caſt anchor at the Cape; and on the 13th of July about ſeven in the morning they came in ſight of Plymouth, from whence they had taken their departure juſt two years before; and on the 15th anchored ſafe at Spithead.

Thus having traced the track of the Adventure, from her firſt ſetting out till her return, the reader will no doubt be impatient till we reſume the thread of our narrative with reſpect to the Reſolution, which we left ſafely moored in Charlotte Sound.

It was on Wedneſday the 3d of November that the Reſolution caſt anchor in her former birth, being convenient for taking on board both wood and water. After the uſual buſineſs [100] of landing tents, caſks, &c. &c. was over, and the crew had time to make enquiries, they were told that ſome ſtrange Indians had been there, and had eaten all the goats, hogs, and poultry, that the Captain had put on ſhore alive at his laſt viſit to breed; and that they did not believe a ſingle one was to be met with in the whole iſland.

On the 5th the copper oven was put on ſhore for the bakers to bake bread for the ſhip's uſe; the brewers were as fully employed in brewing beer for the ſame purpoſe; but notwithſtanding the utmoſt vigilance of the watch, the Indians found means to ſteal and carry away ſeveral of the brewing utenſils, which however were again recovered.

On the 6th a great many of them came alongſide the ſhip, and brought ſeveral of their weapons and curioſities to ſell; but were very loth to diſpoſe of their battle-axes, on which they ſeem to ſet the greateſt value. Fiſh too they brought in abundance. As ſoon as they had made their market they returned to ſhore, and hauling their canoes up among the buſhes, made a fire, and, as was ſuppoſed, dreſſed what they had to eat.

While the bakers and brewers were employed on ſhore, the ſteward was no leſs buſy in examining the biſcuit caſks on board, many of which proved damp, and the bread in them [101] unſerviceable; that which was good was ſeparated from the bad, and packed again in freſh caſks; what was ſoft, but eatable, was ſent aſhore to be rebaked; and that which was utterly unfit for the mens uſe, was preſerved to feed the hogs and fowls. Thus care was taken that nothing might be waſted; and that every thing ſhould be applied to its proper uſe.

In this ſurvey of the ſhip's ſtores, the powder was found to be damp; it was neceſſary therefore that it ſhould be carried aſhore, and dried. The rats had been buſy in the ſailroom, and had eaten their way through and through the canvas. This was a grievous misfortune to the ſail-makers, who had already employment more than ſufficient to repair the rents torn by the weather. While in harbour here no portion of time was allowed for indulgence; even Sunday was employed in re-baking, packing, and ſtowing the bread, as this was judged a work of neceſſity, and therefore allowable in the ſtricteſt ſenſe. But while the crew was thus kept to labour, the greateſt attention was paid to their health: they had every day plenty of celery, ſcurvy-graſs, and other wholeſome plants to boil with their peaſe, in which likewiſe a quantity of portable ſoup was always an ingredient.

After continuing here about three weeks, and no tidings of the Adventure, and all [102] things being in forwardneſs to proceed to ſea, the men had leave by turns to divert themſelves on ſhore; but here the inducements were wanting that made them ſo fond of land at the Society Iſles. The women, though not ugly, are yet chaſte; and it was as much as life was worth for a ſailor to attempt the leaſt rudeneſs to any of their wives, or even to their daughters, without permiſſion. Few of the common men therefore choſe to wander among the woods and deſerts where nothing was to be hoped, but much to be apprehended from the treachery of the natives, who, friendly as they may appear to be when awed by fear, are not to be truſted when under no reſtraint.

A party of officers having one day made an excurſion to take a view of the country, and to mark the manners and way of living of the natives among themſelves, called at a little cove, a few miles from the ſhore where a company of them generally lived, and found them feaſting on a man whom they had not long before killed, as was apparent from the freſhneſs of the fleſh. They ſeemed not at all diſconcerted at the approach of the ſtrangers, but very civilly invited them by ſigns to ſit down and eat; and, as the greateſt dainty, they brought them the man's head from the lower jaw upwards ready dreſſed, which, as well may be ſuppoſed, they refuſed. [103] They then preſented the haſelet of the man juſt warmed, and making ſigns expreſſive of the ſavourineſs of the meat, preſſed them to eat, and ſeemingly with ſome reſentment that they did not. The gentlemen, however, though they declined eating, made ſigns that they were not unwilling to pay for the head, provided it would be no affront to them to carry it away; to this they readily conſented, and the gentlemen brought the head on board, with which they afterwards treated an Indian-chief, who eat it greedily in preſence of the whole ſhips crew; an inconteſtable proof of their eating human fleſh, if any had been wanting to confirm the truth of ſo inhuman a practice.

It may be worth remarking, as we do not remember to have ſeen the ſame thing noticed by former voyagers, that all the teeth were miſſing in the head purchaſed by the officers, and that they ſeem to ſet a great value upon the teeth, by wearing them either as trophies or ornaments in their ears.

Being curious to know the reaſon of putting the man to death, on whom they were found feaſting, they gave the gentlemen to underſtand, that they had lately been at war with the North-Iſland Indians; that they had made twenty of their enemies priſoners, whom they kept alive in places of ſecurity; and that they [104] put them to death occaſionally as they wanted to make a feaſt.

For a deſcription of their weapons of war, as they have already been delineated in the voyages to the Southern Hemiſphere, by Engliſh navigators, we refer the reader to that entertaining work. It may, however, be proper juſt to mention that ſome of their pikes or javelins are 36 feet long, and that they throw theſe to a great diſtance with incredible force; and that the weapon they uſe for cloſe fight being about three feet long, ſhaped not unlike our bats, but with a broad back and ſharp edge, is ſo weighty as to cleave a man's ſkull at one blow.

In the evening of the day the officers viſited the country, they heard from the ſhip a grievous yelling, which cloſed with the moſt terrifying ſhrieks that any man on board ever heard. Something of the ſame kind had been heard by former navigators; and as theſe noiſes came at the cloſe of the day from the dark receſſes of the woods, there is reaſon to ſuppoſe, that the victims of their revenge, or their depraved appetite, are then ſacrificed to their prevailing paſſion.

Our voyagers had now been in harbour from the 3d of November to the 24th without knowing the fate of the Adventure. It was the prevailing opinion among the ſeamen that ſhe [105] muſt either have been wrecked or ſo much damaged as not to be able to proceed upon her voyage; but the Captain was of another opinion; he cauſed a letter to be written, and incloſed in a bottle, directing his aſſociate what courſe to ſteer, and to haſten his departure as ſoon as his ſhip ſhould be in a condition to proceed, and he cauſed the place where the bottle was concealed to be engraven upon a tree, which was not likely to be obſerved by the natives, but could not eſcape the notice of the ſhips company, when they came to examine the adjacent coaſt.

On the 24th, the Captain having previouſly landed ſome live animals on an unfrequented part of the country, where they were not likely to be diſcovered by the Indians, with a view to their multiplying for a ſupply to future navigators, gave orders for all his people to come on board; to unmoor, and to prepare to ſail; and here it may not be improper to obſerve, that a complaint having been made by a native againſt one of the ſailors, and that complaint, upon examination, being found juſt, he cauſed the man to be puniſhed in the ſight of the Indian, and to receive twelve ſevere laſhes.

On the 25th they weighed and came to ſail, but the wind fetting full into the ſtrait, it was night before they cleared the channel.

[106]Next day they ſpent in looking for the Adventure, firing guns every half hour as they proceeded with an eaſy ſail along ſhore, and narrowly viewing every inlet, in order to diſcover the remains of the wreck, if any diſaſter of that kind had happened to her, and to give relief to the diſtreſſed crew, if any remained alive; but the guns not being anſwered, nor any appearance of a wreck to be ſeen, and only a ſmoke to be obſerved, which upon examination was found to proceed from a fire kindled by the natives; the wind proving fair, the weather fine, and a briſk breeze ſpringing up in the evening, they took leave of the iſland and proceeded on their voyage with a full ſail.

On the 27th a ſtiff gale from N. N. W. carried away the main top-maſt-ſtay-yard, which was ſoon reſtored, and they jovially continued their courſe to the S. S. E. being in high ſpirits and full allowance. Lat. at noon 43 deg. 28 min. S.

As a voyage in an unfrequented ſea, where no new object preſented themſelves to vary the ſcene, can afford but little entertainment to the generality of readers, we ſhall juſt preſerve ſo much of the nautical manoevres as minutely to mark the track which the Reſolution purſed, that the intelligent reader may be enabled to judge what foundation there ſtill remains, [107] for ſuppoſing a ſouthern continent to exiſt, though yet undiſcovered.

It is indeed to be regretted that our journaliſt has rather been deficient in noting the longitude from day to day, in like manner as he has done the latitude, but that defect may be in a great meaſure ſupplied by comparing the courſe with the latitude, and ſuppoſing a medium for the ſhip's caſting in any given time, deducible from the time, and the ſpace between the periods, where the longitude is accurately recorded. This much being here thought neceſſary to premiſe we ſhall now proceed.

On the 28th the weather continuing fine, and the wind dying away, they made but little progreſs. Some of the people on the watch ſaw the trunk of a tree floating by the ſhip, and ſaw likewiſe two large ſeals. As theſe were ſigns of land, they concluded that ſome iſlands adjoining to the eaſternmoſt: extremity of New-Zealand could not be far off.

29. Little wind and fair weather. The latitude at noon 44 deg. 29 min. S. At two o'clock in the afternoon, a freſh breeze ſprung up at W. S. W. which ſhifted to the S. W. and cauſed a great head ſea.

30. The gale continued. At noon lat. 45 deg. 50 min. The wind at Weſt, and the courſe as before. Saw two Port Egmont hens.

[108]Dec. 1, 1773. This day a ſtiff gale at W. by S. Courſe S. S. E. Saw a ſeal, two penguins, and a great deal of ſea weed; certain indications of land at no great diſtance. Lat. 47 deg. 5 min. S.

2. The weather foggy, with ſmall rain. Wind S. S. W. Courſe S. E. by S. Lat. at noon, 48 deg. 23 min. S. About four the wind ſhipped to W. N. W. Here they altered their courſe and ſteered South. Sea weeds, and flocks of birds ſtill in ſight.

3. Wind N. W. by N. Courſe South. Lat. at noon 48 deg. 56 min. S. Signs of land ſtill continue.

4. No obſervation, the weather miſty. Wind at S. E. Courſe S. S. W. probably to examine if any land lay to the weſtward, from the ſtrong ſigns obſerved for ſeveral days before.

5. The weather cleared up. Breeze S. E. Courſe S. S. W. Lat. at noon, 50 deg. 14 min. Fine dry weather. Wind ſhifted E. S. E. Courſe S. Saw one ſeal, and ſeveral albatroſſes, and heard the cry of penguins at no great diſtance, but ſaw no land. The ſhips company ſtill in health, except ſome who were not yet cured of the Otaheite maladies.

6. Fine clear weather but cold; and being in lat. 51 deg. 30 min. and long. 180 E. juſt [109] under London Bridge, as our journaliſt obſerves, they tapped their laſt caſk of beer, and drank health to the King and Royal Family, and to all their good friends in England. In the midſt of their merriment, a piece of wood, ſeemingly wrought and ſhaped like a trunnel, paſſed the ſhip, which not a little ſurpriſed them.

7. At four o'clock in the morning the wind at North. Courſe S. S. E. Came in ſight of ice; and the weather being piercing cold, though in the very height of ſummer, ſerved ſome GROG to the ſhip's company. Lat. at noon, 53 deg. 8 min. S. In this day's run paſſed a ſurpriſingly large ſeal aſleep upon the water, and ſaw ſea weed; but no land.

8. It blowed hard, with rain. Piercing cold. Saw ſeveral albatroſſes, and two penguins. Wind W. N. W. Courſe S. S. E. Lat. at noon, 55 deg. 44 min. Shipped ſeveral heavy ſeas. Split the fore-top-ſail, and bent another. At twelve at night hove too with the ſhips head to the weſtward.

9. At four in the morning bore away with a ſtrong gale at N. W. Courſe S. S. E. This day, by the Doctor's order, ſerved pickled cabbage to the ſhip's company. Lat. at noon 57 deg. 27 min. Blowed a ſtorm. At half after ſeven in the evening hove the ſhip too. [110] At twelve made ſail, and ſteered E. S. E. Wind S. by W.

10. Thick weather, attended with wind, ſnow, and hail. Exceſſive cold and raw. Lat. at noon, by calculation, 59 deg. 10 min. A heavy ſea ran from S. S. W. Courſe S. S. E. Little or no night.

11. Hard gales with ſmall rain; and ſometimes ſqualls with hail. Lat. at noon 60 deg. 47 min. Wind at W. S. W. Courſe as before.

12. A ſtiff gale. About two in the morning came in ſight of a large body of ice; at half after four ſailed cloſe by it. Lat. at noon 62 deg. 17 min. Wind N. W. Courſe E. S. E.

13. A great fall of ſnow, and a ſtrong gale from N. by W. Lat. at noon 63 deg. 30 min. At four in the afternoon hauled up to E. N. E. Wind at N.

14. A freſh gale at N. W. Courſe E. S. E. Saw a monſtrous large iſland of ice a-head. Lat. at noon 65 deg. 6½ min. Eight or ten iſlands of ice in ſight, and bitter cold.

15. About two in the morning paſſed the large iſland of ice, computed to be three miles in circumference, and 60 feet above the level of the ſea. At five the ice came ſo thick about the ſhip that ſhe was unable to proceed [111] either to the ſouthward or eaſtward; they were therefore obliged to tack ſhip, in order to get clear. Here the ice iſlands preſented a moſt romantic proſpect of ruined caſtles, churches, arches, ſteeples, wrecks of ſhips, and a thouſand wild and groteſque forms of monſters, dragons, and all the hideous ſhapes that the moſt fertile imagination can poſſibly conceive. About theſe iſlands the penguins are heard continually ſcreaming, and add to the horror of the ſcene, which cannot be beheld by the moſt intrepid without ſome emotions of fear. Lat. at noon 66 deg. 4 min. A ſtiff gale, attended with hail and ſnow.

16. The weather having cleared up, and the ſea become calm, they ſent the boats out to bring in ice, as had been practiſed before in the ſame latitude, in order to lengthen out their ſtock of water; for though they were in poſſeſſion of Dr. Irvin's Apparatus for making ſalt water freſh at ſea, and though they made frequent uſe of it, diſtilling ſometimes forty gallons a day, yet this natural diſtillation (if it may be ſo called) from the clouds, was ſo much preferable, that the firſt was only made uſe of to ſupply the animals on board, while the other was preferred by the chiefeſt officers. While this ſervice was performing, the ſhip lay to; but a ſudden ſwell coming [112] on before the boats were half loaded, they were glad to get a-board with their lives; but not without conſiderable damage to the boats. This day they ſaw a large whale at a diſtance; but the breeze freſhening they ſoon loſt ſight of her.

17. The wind varying N. by W. and N. N. W. they made ſail and ſteered N. E. by E. in order to clear the ice. But the wind dying away and the ſea appearing calm, they hoiſted out the pinnace as well as the boats; and renewed the labour of watering the ſhip with ice with double ardour. It had been found very grievous to thoſe who had been obliged to plunge their hands in the ſea to lift up the looſe ice; and therefore the Captain furniſhed the people who manned the boats with pick-axes, ſledge hammers, and double-headed hatchets, to cleave it and break it from the ſolid bodies that floated on the waves. This, though the labour was hard, was much more tolerable than lifting the pieces out of the water; and was perfomed with more chearfulneſs, eſpecially as every man was encouraged with a dram when he went out, and rewarded with another when he returned.

During the morning this labour was continued without intermiſſion; but in the afternoon a fall of ſnow came on, the like of which we can form no idea of in this part of the [113] world. Our journaliſt's words are, ‘"that the flakes of ſnow were larger than gooſe's feathers, and fell ſo thick that from the quarter-deck we could not ſee our boltſprit."’ For a while it ceaſed; but then again it fell by handfulls, and filled the ſhips decks ſo ſuddenly that double the men on board with all their efforts could not have cleared them as faſt as it fell. The rigging too was ſo enlarged with ice and ſnow that the running-tackle was rendered altogether uſeleſs till the ſtorm abated. Their latitude at noon was 64 deg. 30 min. and the pinnace and boats being fortunately hoiſted on board before the fall came on, they continued their courſe E. N. E. with the wind at N. by W.

18. This day our journaliſt notes the longitude for the ſecond time ſince the ſhip's departure from New Zealand, and rates it at 207 degrees Eaſt. The latitude the ſame as the day before nearly. Here he particularly enlarges upon the hardſhips the poor ſailors ſuffer in ſearching for land where nothing is to be leen but ſea and ice, where iceicles frequently hang to the noſes of the men more than an inch long; where the froſt is ſometimes ſo ſevere as to freeze the very breath upon their cloaths; where he has ſeen the men caſed in frozen ſnow as if clad in armour; where the running rigging has been ſo enlarged [114] by frozen ſleet as hardly to be graſped by the largeſt hand; and where he has ſeen the windward ſide of the ſhip ſo glaced with ice as hardly to be diſtinguiſhed from the little iſlets that ſurrounded her; yet under all theſe hardſhips, the men chearful over their GROG, and not a man ſick but of old ſcars.—This day the fog being ſo thick as not to be penetrated by the eye, they were alarmed by a craſh as if a thouſand houſes had been all tumbling about their ears together, and preſently they diſcovered a ſmall iſland of ice juſt under their leebow. All hands were inſtantly called up, and by good providence they weathered the ice, and eſcaped the danger, which was ſo imminent, that in leſs than a quarter of an hour the ſhip muſt have been overwhelmed, and every ſoul on board periſhed.

19. The watch were now conſtantly employed in beating off the ice, and clearing the rigging. The pieces that fell upon deck, ſome of them larger than brickbats, when the main buſineſs was over, were carefully gathered up, and converted into water. Latitude at noon 64 deg. 31 min. long. 209 deg. 12 min. E. At three the wind ſhifted to N. N. W. Courſe altered E. by N. At ſix clear. Courſe altered S. by E.

20. Hawled up to the Eaſt. Six iſlands of ice in ſight. Clear weather. Latitude at noon [115] 65 deg. 52 min. At three in the afternoon a ſtiff gale at N. E. Courſe E. S. E. At ten croſſed the antarctic circle. Sun the whole day.

21. Thick fog. Narrowly eſcaped a large iſland of ice, having juſt room to veer and not a yard to ſpare; and, when they wore, another iſland and field of ice to leeward. Hauled up the main-ſail, wore ſhip, and ſtood to the N. N. W. Latitude at noon 66 deg. 52 min. Tacked, and ſtood to the eaſtward. Saw ſeveral albatroſſes.

22. Intolerably cold. Brandy ſerved to the ſhip's company every day. The poor Indian quivers at the ſight of ſnow and ice—is taken great care of, and kept warm in the Captain's cabin—enjoys his health—but much frightened. Latitude at noon 67 deg. 27½ min. Wind N. N. W. Courſe E. by S.

23 & 24. The weather being fine, they ſeem to have lain-to to take in ice for melting, as no latitude is this day mentioned.

25. Being Chriſtmas-day they ſpent in jollity. Latitude at noon 66 deg. 14 min.

26. Two men were this day put in irons for being drunk, and threatening the ſecond lieutenant. When ſober, expreſſing their ſorrow, they were releaſed. Same day all hands drunk; made no way, but counted 132 iſlands of ice in ſight.

[116][During theſe idle days, if by making little or no way they may be ſo called, they got upwards of 30 tons of ice on board. Here we could have wiſhed that our journaliſt had marked the latitude, as it ſhould ſeem from this day they began to change their courſe, and to ſteer north-weſterly.]

27. The men being recovered from their frantic jollity, and order and good diſcipline reſtored, they hoiſted their boats on board, and made ſail to the northward. The iſlands of ice increaſing in number, and the looſe ice beginning to be troubleſome, they could make little or no way to the ſouthward, which ſeems to have determined the Captain to change his courſe.

28. The weather altered, and from fine clear froſt, became tempeſtuous, with ſnow and hail. Latitude at noon 64 deg. 22 min. The people began to feel the effects either of their debauch, or the ſeverity of the cold, or perhaps of both; for now they firſt began to complain of cramp pains, cold, rheumatiſm, and other grievous diſorders. This day they ſaw ſeveral albatroſſes, and two antarctic birds.

29. Nothing material.

30. Fine weather and ſmooth water, the Captain ordered the hammocks up, the ſhip to be thoroughly cleanſed and ſmoaked between decks, the ſick to be properly attended, [117] and all poſſible relief afforded them that their ſituation would admit; and by nouriſhing diet and gentle exerciſe they recovered ſurpriſingly. Latitude at noon 60 deg. 11 min. Wind from W. S. W. to W. N. W. Courſe N. W.

31. A pleaſant breeze at Weſt. Steered N. N. W. Latitude at noon by obſervation 59 deg. 39 min. Saw ſeveral albatroſſes, and a few ſmall white birds called ice-birds.

Jan. 1, 1774. Fine light breeze from the eaſtward. Courſe N. W. Latitude at noon by obſervation 59 deg. 11 min. This day a quarrel happened between two of the midſhipmen that had like to have proved fatal to both. One of them having drank too much, was very abuſive, and provoked the other to ſtrike him; on which the former drew his knife, which the latter catched at with his hand, by which he ſaved his life, but cut himſelf ſeverely. They were then parted, and the aggreſſor put in irons; but, when in irons, behaved ſo turbulently, that it was found neceſſary to double iron him, to confine his hands behind his back, and to place a centinel over him.

2. Fine pleaſant weather. The Captain ordered the articles of war to be read, the whole ſhip's company and the priſoner being preſent. A court martial was then held, and the priſoner was found guilty of tranſgreſſing the articles, and ſentenced to receive twelve laſhes, which [118] ſentence was carried into execution. Latitude at noon 57 deg. 57 min. A pleaſant breeze from S. S. E. Courſe W. N. W.

3. At one in the morning calm. About four catched a large albatroſs with hook and line. It meaſured from tip to tip when his wings were ſtretched out twenty-two feet. At five freſh gales at South. Courſe N. N. W. Latitude at noon 56 deg. 46 min. Saw ſome ſea-weeds, and two divers; hoped land was near. At eight in the afternoon wind changed W. N. W. Steered North the whole night.

4. Blowed very hard in the morning. Saw more ſea-weed, one diver, and ſeveral albatroſſes. Changed their courſe to the North-Eaſt, in full expectation of diſcovering land. Latitude at noon 54 deg. 55 min. The weather now became ſenſibly warmer, it being here the middle of ſummer. This day uſed the laſt caſk of ice-water, and began upon the water from the main hold.

5. Moderate weather in the morning; but ſoon changed, and blew a ſtorm. Having no ſight of land in this direction, tacked, and ſteered again N. by W. Latitude at noon 53 deg. 43 min. Blowed exceſſive hard the following night.

6. The gale continued, with ſqualls and rain. Shipt ſeveral heavy ſeas. Wind at S. W. Courſe N. by W. The ſhip by ſtraining had [119] become leaky; the pumps were therefore ſet to work, and ſix inches of water pumped out of the hold, lat. at noon 52 deg. 1 min. The wind abated in the afternoon, and pleaſant weather ſucceeded.

7. Pleaſant weather, the former courſe continued. Lat. at noon, 50 deg. 35 min.

8. This courſe ſtill continued. This day experimental beef was ſerved to the ſhip's company; but our journaliſt neither tells us how it was prepared, nor how it proved; pickled cabbage, by way of preſervative againſt the ſcurvy, ſeems to have been regularly ſerved on beef days; and it is certain that no ſhip ever went round the world ſo little affected with that diſorder. Lat. at noon by obſervation 49 deg. 7 min. courſe E. N. E.

9. The wind and weather variable, courſe as before, lat. at noon, by obſervation 48 deg. 17 min. long. 233 E. varied the courſe, and ſteered E. by N. One man this day put in irons for miſbehaviour, and a centinel put over him.

10. Clear weather, courſe in the morning as before, a light breeze from the weſtward; the gentlemen diverted themſelves in the cutter by killing ſea fowl, lat. at noon by obſervation 48 deg. 8 min. The gentlemen returned on board to dinner, having killed 14 [120] ſea birds, not unlike gulls, only that their bills were hooked.

11. In the morning the weather ſqually with ſhowers, wind W. half N. courſe E. by N. Lat. at noon 47 deg. 51½ min. Here it may be noted, that having near'd their former courſe the preceding year, they again altered it, and ſteered to the S. E. wind at N. N. W. a ſteady gale all night.

12. Freſh gale, courſe ſtill to the S. E. lat. at noon 49 deg. 32 min. varied the courſe to S. S. E. Here they were in high expectation of finding land.

13. A ſtiff gale from N. by W. courſe as before, lat. at noon 52 deg. 11 min. In the afternoon tack'd and ſtood to the north-weſt; but at eight in the evening ſteered to the ſouthweſt, blowed very hard all night from N. N. W.

14. Still continued to blow a ſtorm, lat. at noon 53 deg. 53 min. long. 257 deg. 13 min. E. changed their courſe to S. S. W. ſtill in hopes of finding land, ſaw birds, and ſea weed, which in this voyage were found no certain ſigns of land, though generally eſteemed ſo by the moſt experienced navigators.

15. Moderate, but thick miſty weather, courſe in the morning as before, lat. at noon, by calculation, 56 deg. 11 min. Directed their courſe in the afternoon from S. S. W. to E. About three a ſtorm came on from the north, [121] which increaſed ſo violently before ſeven, that before eight they furl'd the fore top-ſail, main-top-foreſail, and main-ſail, and hove too under the mizen-ſtay-ſail, with her head to the N. E. Blowed hard all night, two men ſick.

16. At half paſt ſeven made ſail to the S.S.E. wind at W. N. W. Lat. at noon by obſervation, 56 deg. 20 min. Varied their courſe S. by E. Stiff gale from N. W. by W. all night.

17. Clear weather, but ſqually, wind at W. a ſteady gale, courſe S. S. E. lat. at noon 58 deg. 34 min. S. Saw ſome porpoiſes that ſeldom ſhew themſelves far from land; and alſo ſome ſea-weed, wind W. N. W.

18. The wind continued as before, courſe from eleven laſt night, till three this morning S. by E. at which time they altered their courſe and ſtood full ſouth. Lat. at noon by account 60 deg. 54 min. About the middle of the day the wind ſhifted to the S. W. At eight in the evening wore-ſhip.

19. At three in the morning a breeze ſprung up from the N. N. W. courſe S. S. E. ſaw a whale. At four the wind ſhifted to the north, courſe full ſouth, lat. at noon, 61 deg. 32 min. ſaw one ſeal, and ſeveral birds. At eight in the evening ſaw a great quantity of ſea-weed, courſe S. S. E.

20. At three came in ſight of an iſland of ice, and at ſix ſaw ſeveral birds. Lat. at noon, [122] 62 deg. 34 min. calm but exceſſive cold. At half paſt ſeven, blowed hard, double-reefed the main top-ſail, and handed the fore-top-ſail, wind S. S. E. Ships head eaſt. At eleven wore-ſhip, and ſtood to the S. W.

21. The wind as before, piercing cold. About four in the morning tack'd and ſtood eaſtward, lat. at noon, by obſervation 62 deg. 29 min. courſe in the afternoon E. and E. by N.

22. Dry clear weather, wind at S. S. E. courſe as before. Lat. at noon 61 deg. 59. min. One marine ſick.

23. Miſty weather in the morning with ſhowers, wind S. courſe E. S. E. the people all hearty, except as before excepted, one marine. Lat. 62 deg. 34. min. Ships head S. E. a ſtiff gale all night at S. W. ſhips head S. S. E.

24. The gale continued till near ſix in the morning; at which time they changed their courſe to the ſouth. Lat. at noon, 63 deg. 32 min. piercing cold.

25. The wind at north attended with light ſnow, ſaw ſix albatroſſes, ſome ice-birds, and three Pintada birds, called by the Dutch Cape Doves. Lat. at noon by obſervation, 65 deg. 26 min. long. 248 E.

Here they ſaw no ice, though in the ſame latitude in the former trip to the ſouthward they were ſurrounded by it. Poſſibly the latter [123] end of January, which anſwers to our July, may be the proper ſeaſon for viſiting thoſe frigid regions.

The Indian begins to be impatient to ſee England. He is ſtill indulged in the captain's cabin; is learning to write; but gets little or no Engliſh.

26. At nine in the morning every body on deck imagined they ſaw land; and accordingly preparations were made for getting all things in readineſs to caſt anchor. At eleven croſſed the antarctic circle to the ſouthward for the 2d time, and hauled up S. E. by E. where they were perſuaded land was. But to their great diſappointment, the farther they ſailed, the farther the land ſeemed to bear from them; and at length it wholly vaniſhed. Lat. at noon 66 deg. 35 min. Sounded, but found no bottom.

27. Miſty weather, but moderate. At ſeven in the morning it cleared up, and they altered their courſe to the S. E. ſtill in hope of land. Wind N. N. E. Lat. at noon, by obſervation, 67 deg. 58 min. Paſſed one large iſland of ice, and ſeveral iſlets of various forms. Saw ſeveral whales, ſome Pintada birds, and two ſtrange birds, ſuch as they had never ſeen before, and thought to be land-birds, with a great flock of ſea ſwallows, which the ſailors call Mother Carey's Chickens, [124] and dread their appearance as an omen of tempeſtuous weather. Theſe, our journaliſt ſays, were more beautiful than any they had ever ſeen before, their gloſſy feathers of black, red, and white, being ſo happily intermixed as to produce a colouring that exceeds all deſcription.

28. The weather continuing moderate, and the ſea open, they ſtill purſued their courſe to the S. S. E. though at the utmoſt peril of their lives, from the large bodies of ice that were continually floating round them. Their latitude was this day at noon 69 deg. 33 min. South; in the afternoon they veered a little to the Eaſt. At one in the morning they ſaw the ſun and moon exactly at the ſame height, viz. ten degrees above the horizon, and both appeared equally illuminated, owing perhaps to the hazineſs of the atmoſphere. Here they went to work again in digging and loading ice to melt into water; but here they were more unfortunate than in their former attempts, having the pinnace ſtove againſt the iſland on which the men were at work; and it was with difficulty that her crew recovered the ſhip.

29. The iſlands of ice began to multiply, and the looſe ice to incorporate; but the weather continued moderate, and generally clear. Lat. at noon, by obſervation, 69 deg. 58½ min. [125] Wind at N. E. and ſo cold that it was thought it could not be colder. At half paſt ten at night tacked and ſtood N. N. W.

30. Came in ſight of a fog bank, which had a great appearance of land, and many who were thought the beſt judges aſſerted that it was land; however it proved upon trial a deception, as well as the former. This day they paſſed by a great iſland of ice, and heard many dreadful cracks, as if the whole earth was cleaving aſunder. Saw ſeveral whales and a ſtrange bird as before. Taking a view from the maſt-head nothing was to be ſeen but a dreary proſpect of ice and ſea. Of the former might be ſeen a whole country as far as the eye could carry one, diverſified with hills and dales, and fields and imaginary plantations, that had all the appearance of cultivation; yet was nothing more than the ſports of chance in the formation of thoſe immenſe bodies of congregated ice. This ſecond attempt at diſcovery of land in this dreary region being attended with no better ſucceſs than the firſt, the captain thought it adviſeable to give over the purſuit for the preſent, and once more to direct the ſhip's courſe to the northward.—Lat. this day at noon 71 deg. 10 min. long. 252 deg. 2 min. E. The laſt hog which the captain had on board being killed ſome days [126] before, this day the butcher killed the lieutenant's hog, and dreſſed it for the ſpit.

31. This morning a very large whale was ſeen floating on the ſurface of the ſea. The wind blowing briſkly at E. and E. N. E. and the ſhip's head N. and N. N. E. at noon they fell into lat. 69 deg. 54 min. very cold, and the weather beginning to alter. In the evening the ſnow, which juſt began to fall lightly about noon, came down heavily, and gave full employment to the watch to beat it off as it froze upon the rigging. This was grievous work; but as it in a great meaſure precluded the neceſſity of digging and filling ice from the iſlands to melt, it was ſubmitted to chearfully, eſpecially as the ſame encouragement and the ſame reward were beſtowed for the one as well as for the other. Wind variable from E. to E. N. E. intolerably cold. Ship's head as before.

Feb. 1. The weather clearing up, the boats were again ſent out to icing, as the term now was; and before night, they brought on board five boat's load. At noon lat. 68 deg. 2 min. At ſeven in the evening they made ſail to the northward. Wind from E. to E. N. E.

All the morning employed in icing, ſaw two whales and ſeveral ſea fowl, lat. at noon, 67 deg. [127] 8 min. Ships head N. by W. This day roaſted the lieutenant's dog for the gun-room.

3. Colder than ever they had yet felt it, the wind variable from E. to E. S. E. At ſix in the morning croſſed the antartic circle to the northward. At noon lat. 66 deg. 03 min. 2700 leagues eaſt of China, ſays our journaliſt.

4. A light breeze from the eaſtward, ſaw ſeveral grey petterals, and two albatroſſes. The weather being dry and clear, brought up and aired the hammocks, cleanſed and ſmoaked between decks. Lat. at noon by obſervation, 65 deg. 15 min. long. 261 deg. eaſt. Courſe N. N. W. and N. W. all night.

5. Clear dry weather. Ship's head N. by W. Saw a flock of birds, and one Port Egmont hen. Lat. at noon by calculation 64 deg. 4 min. A great fall of ſnow. Stood to the N. N. W. all night.

6. Calm weather with ſnow and hail. Lat. at noon by obſervation 63 deg. 34 min. Saw one albatroſs, and ſeveral grey petterals; but no other appearances of land. Courſe N. by W. Wind S. W. Blowed a hurricane; the ſea roſe a tremendous height; and often boarded them from the larboard cathead clear off.

7. The ſtorm continued, and carried away the fore top-maſt-ſtay-ſail ſheet, and the fore and main-top-ſails. About eleven in the forenoon [128] the ſtorm abated. Lat. by obſervation 61 deg. 5½. Wind at S. W. by W. Courſe N. N. W. In this ſtorm, the ſervice bearing hard upon the mariners, the captain, to eaſe them as much as poſſible, very humanely ordered the officers mates before the maſt.

8. A ſtiff gale; yet the men were employed in repairing the damage ſuſtained in the preceding day's ſtorm. Wind at S. W. by S. Courſe N. W. by N. Lat. at noon 58 deg. 8 min. A ſtiff breeze all night from W. S. W.

9. Squally, with ſhowers of rain. Wind at W. S. W. Courſe N. W. by W. Lat. at noon by calculation 55 deg. 42 min. Saw a great number of birds; moderate weather all night.

10. At three in the morning they ſteered N. W. Wind S. S. W. and purſued that courſe the whole day. Lat. at noon 53 deg. 39 min. Saw flocks of albatroſſes, which ſeem to be the chief inhabitants of the watry regions of the ſouthern hemiſphere.

11. It blowed a tempeſt at W. by N. and W. N W. Ship's head from N. half E. to N. N. E. Saw ſeveral porpoiſes, with other indications of land. Lat. at noon by account 51 deg. 47 min. At half paſt two in the afternoon ſtowed the main top-maſt-ſail, the ſhip lying with her lee-gunnel under water. At half paſt three righted. Secured the beſt [129] bower anchor, and pumped ſhip. A great ſwell all night from N. N. W.

12. At one in the morning the ſtorm abated. All hands employed in repairing the injury ſuſtained by the ſtorm. As the day advanced the weather cleared up; and while the ſeamen were buſy in their ſeveral departments, the gentlemen diverted themſelves in ſhooting albatroſſes. Such is the ſudden tranſition from foul to fair; and ſuch the unconcern, when one ſtorm is over, about what may happen when another ariſes. Lat. at noon by obſervation 50 deg. 14 min. In the evening the gentlemen returned aboard, having ſhot 11 albatroſſes and one Port Egmont hen.

13. Pleaſant weather and clear. A light breeze from the N. W. At ſix in the morning obſerved a piece of timber to paſs by the ſhip. All the forenoon employed in airing the hammocks, cleanſing and ſmoaking the ſhip. This day the ſteward's mate ſerved out four cabbage, by which it is ſuppoſed pickled cabbage is meant. Latitude at noon 50 deg. 14 min. About eight in the evening, tacked and ſtood to the North. Wind N. N. W.

14. Nothing remarkable. Lat. at noon 49 deg. 34 min. Ship's head N. W. Wind W. S. W.

15. Calm weather. Wind N. N. E. Courſe [130] N. W. Lat. at noon 48 deg. 30 min. Courſe as before.

16. Thick foggy weather attended with ſmall rain. Wind at W. S. W. Courſe as before. Lat. at noon 47 deg. 45 min. In the afternoon dry pleaſant weather. At night a great ſwell from the N. N. W. This day ſaw ſeveral birds and ſome ſmall ſtreaked porpoiſes.

17. Fine all the forenoon; aired the hammocks, cleaned between decks, and ſmoaked the ſhip. All well on board. Lat. at noon 46 deg. 16 min. Freſh gales and ſqualley, attended with rain in the night. Ship's courſe N. N. W. Wind Weſt.

18. Strong gale at S. S. W. Courſe N. W. Lat. at noon 44 deg. 12 min. Shipped many heavy ſeas, two of which went over their lower yards. The weather at night more moderate, but dark and cloudy.

19. The ſtorm ſubſided, the air cleared up, and a pleaſant gale ſucceeded; aired the hammocks, cleaned between decks, and ſmoaked the ſhip. Lat. at noon 42 deg. 5½ min. Long. from Cape Palliſer 95 deg. 32 min. E. and diſtant from it 1168 leagues [if our journaliſt has made no miſtake.] Wind W. to W. N. W. Ship's head from N. to N. N. W.

20. Pleaſant dry warm weather; a light breeze at W. N. W. Courſe from N. to N. [131] by E. They were now in a temperate climate, and, as the ſhip's company rightly ſuppoſed, were directing their courſe in purſuit of that country which Juan Fernandes is ſaid to have diſcovered, and which by very many able navigators has been ſuppoſed, and by ſome affirmed, to be part of the Terra Incognita Auſtralis. Of this opinion is Arias, a Spaniſh writer, who ſays, ‘"that a pilot named Juan Fernandes ſailing from the coaſt of Chili, about the latitude of 40 deg. S. little more or leſs, and ſailing in courſes between Weſt and South-Weſt, was brought in a month's time to a coaſt, from what he could judge, of the continent, very fertile and agreeable, inhabited by white people mighty well diſpoſed, of our ſtature, and ſo peaceable and civil, that by all ways they could expreſs, they offered them every thing in their power, and of the riches of their country, which appeared very rich and plentiful. Being overjoyed to have diſcovered the coaſt of that great continent ſo much deſired, he returned home, intending to return properly equipt; but was prevented by death."’ Arias adds, that the pilot Juan Fernandes ſaw here the mouths of very large rivers, and concludes this certainly to be the coaſt of the ſouthern continent. Other voyagers pretended likewiſe to have diſcovered land in or near the latitude which the Reſolution is now examining. [132] M. Pingre, a French writer, reports, ‘"that the Captain of a Spaniſh brigantine going from Calloa to the iſland of Chiloe in 1714, being in the latitude of 38 deg. S. about 550 leagues off Chili, diſcovered a high country which he coaſted a whole day; that he judged it inhabited from the fires which were ſeen in the night; and that the contrary winds obliging them to put into Conception, he there found the ſhip Le François, of St. Malo, commanded by M. du Freſne."’ Add to theſe what is ſaid of the Orange, one of the Naſſau fleet, that in her paſſage from Cape Horne to the iſland of Juan Fernandes ſhe ſaw this continent twice; once in 50 deg. S. and again in the latitude of 41 deg. S. Le Maire and Schouten are likewiſe ſaid to have ſeen ſigns of land near this ſituation.—All theſe teſtimonies, with others that might be produced, had ſo ſtrengthened the notion of the exiſtence of a ſouthern continent at no great diſtance, that Mr. Dalrymple has roundly aſſerted the diſcovery of it. Capt. Cooke therefore appears to have been determined either to confirm, or totally diſprove the notion. This the intelligent reader will be at no loſs to diſcover by his conduct; and this being premiſed, we ſhall proceed.—We have already traced him from latitude 71 deg. 10 min. S. and from longitude 261 deg. E. anſwering to 109 W. within half [133] a degree of the longitude in which Mr. Dalrymple has placed Eaſter-Iſland, to his preſent ſituation this day at noon in latitude 42 deg. 5 min. S. and long. 270 deg. 17 min. E. anſwering to 99 deg. 43 min. W. and we ſhall mark him daily as he proceeds.

This day [Feb. 20.] our journaliſt remarks for the firſt time, that ſyrup of carrots (called marmalet) and wort was dealt out by the ſurgeon's order to ſuch of the men as diſcovered the leaſt ſcorbutic ſymptoms in their habit; and he notes alſo, that this day the crew were all in perfect health. We have already remarked that Mr. M'Bride had preſcribed wort as a preſervative againſt the ſcurvy, and it redounds greatly to the honour of the Commanders who pay attention to ſuch important informations.

21. The weather continuing fine, the Captain neglected no opportunity of ordering the hammocks, &c. to be aired; and he was no leſs careful of the mens apparel, never ſuffering any to appear dirty before him; inſomuch that when other Commanders came on board, they could not help declaring, they thought every day Sunday on board of Capt. Cooke. Lat. at noon 37 deg. 54 min. Courſe N. N. W. Saw ſea-fowl, and porpoiſes in great abundance.

22. Three men puniſhed for abuſing and ſtriking one of the marines; one who was the moſt culpable with twelve laſhes; the other [134] two with ſix each. Latitude at noon 36 deg. 10 min. Wind at E. Courſe S. W. by W. This day Juan Fernandes's Continent was judged by the ſailors to lie in that direction. Birds and porpoiſes ſtill in ſight.

23. The weather continuing clear, warm, and moderate, the powder-room was cleanſed; and the powder being found damp, was brought upon the deck and aired. The ſtore-rooms were likewiſe examined, and, where neceſſary, ſmoaked and dried. Latitude 36 deg. 40 min. Wind N. E. Courſe as before. This day the Captain was taken ill, to the grief of all the ſhip's company.

24. The weather continuing fine, the carpenters were employed upon the pinnace, in order to repair the damage ſhe received in icing; the gunners in examining and recharging the fireworks, which by the damp had been rendered unfit for uſe. Latitude at noon 37 deg. 25 min. Wind N. W. Courſe S. W. by W. all ſails ſet.

25. This day the weather altered. Wind at N. by W. Squally, with rain. Courſe W. by S. Latitude at noon 37 deg. 53 min. In the afternoon the weather cleared up; the wind veered to the W. About two they tacked ſhip, and ſtood to the N. N. W.

26. The Captain ſtill indiſpoſed, and much lamented. The weather variable; but generally [135] fine. Wind S. W. by W. Ship's head N. N. W. Latitude at noon 36 deg. 40 min.

27. Wind at Eaſt. Courſe N. N. W. Lat. at noon 34 deg. 52 min. In the afternoon ſteered North.

28. Pleaſant weather, wind at E. N. E. Ships head N. W. Saw two birds; the captain this day much better, which each might read in the countenance of the other from the higheſt officer to the meaneſt boy on board the ſhip. Lat. at noon 33 deg. 9 min. wind ſhifted to W. N. W.

March 1. Delightful weather and ſmooth water, a light breeze from W. N. W. Courſe N. Lat. at noon 32 deg. 15 min. ſaw ſeveral albicores, and two egg birds.

2. A light breeze from W. N. W. Ships head as before. Lat. at noon 31 deg. 13 min. Courſe altered to the N. E. Saw here a great number of porpoiſes rolling upon the water, and in the night a ravenous ſhark found means to regale himſelf on a fine piece of pork that was towing in a net at the ſhip's ſtern to freſhen it for the uſe of the great cabin.

3. A light breeze from N. by W. Ship's head N. E. by E. Saw two bonnettas, a man of war bird, and ſeveral egg-birds. Lat. at noon 30 deg. 30 min. S. It was now judged by the ſhip's company that they were in ſearch of Eaſter-Iſland, diſcovered by Roggewein.

[136]4. A fine light breeze from N. W. by W. At four in the morning tack'd ſhip, and ſtood to the N. E. by N. The captain perfectly recovered from his illneſs to the great joy of the ſhip's company. Lat. at noon by obſervation, 29 deg. 57 min. Wind at N. W. half W. ſteered half E. and E. Several bonnettas in ſight.

5. The weather dry and the wind calm, they aired the hammocks, and ſcraped the decks above and below. Saw ſeveral albicores at a great depth under water. Theſe fiſh are never to be caught in fine weather, but when the ſea is agitated; they then riſe and play upon the ſurface, and may be caught with hook and line, or ſtruck with the gigg. Lat. 29 deg. 44 min. courſe altered.

6. Some gentle ſhowers of rain, wind E.N.E. Ship's courſe half N. This day they came in ſight of ſome tropic birds. Lat. at noon 29 deg. 35 min. Obſerved an uncommonly large piece of ſpunge to paſs the ſhip, ſuppoſed to drift from the land; ſaw alſo ſome fiſh playing about the ſhip, with other ſigns of land near.

7. A pleaſant breeze from the eaſtward, continued to ſee fiſh, but none that they could catch; hooked ſeveral bonnettas, and caught four: The climate moſt delightful, mild, warm, and nouriſhing; not a man ill, but all [137] in high ſpirits. Lat. at noon 28 deg. 20 min. Courſe N. W.

8. Courſe altered W. N. W. Saw five tropic birds, ſome man of war birds, and egg-birds, and two gannettas, an almoſt certain ſign that land is near, ſaw alſo ſome ſea-weed. Lat. at noon 27 deg. 4 min. Courſe altered W. half S. Wind at E.

9. Wind at E. Courſe W. half S. Saw numbers of bonettas, albicores, and flying fiſh, alſo tropic birds, and man of war birds: Theſe laſt are great enemies to the flying fiſh, and it is really diverting to ſee with what velocity they will dart down upon them when driven from the water by the Dolphins, albicores, and bonetta's, all enemies to the flying fiſh, which, notwithſtanding are ſo numerous as to change the colour of the ſea in ſome places by their ſwarms. Lat. at noon 27 deg. 7 min. S. and long. 105½ min. W. or according to our common way of reckoning 254 deg. 10 min E.

10. A freſh breeze at E. half N. Courſe W. half S. All hands employed in preparing to land, being poſitive that land cannot be far off, ſo many ſigns concurring to confirm our opinion, and, beſides, being near the place where the geographers have placed Eaſter-Iſland. Lat. at noon 27 deg. 11 min. This afternoon ſaw more than 100 birds in a flock.

[138]11. Bore away all ſails ſpread. At ſix in the morning they deſcried land, bearing W. half S. Diſtance ſeven or eight leagues.

12. A dead calm. At ſix they were about eleven or twelve miles from ſhore, the land bearing N. N. W. The calm continuing lay off and on all night.

13. Wind off ſhore, ſounded and found ground at 91 fathom red and white firm corally ſand. Lat. 27 deg. 6½ min. At four hoiſted the cutter out, and ſent her on ſhore to look for good anchorage. At five ſhe returned with news, that at the diſtance of five miles from the iſland there was ſafe anchoring. On board the boat came one of the natives, a man of a middling ſtature, curiouſly tataowed from head to foot. His language was different from that of any of the iſlanders they had yet viſited, ſo that he was no otherwiſe underſtood by the Indian, nor by any other man on board, except by ſigns. The iſland had no very promiſing appearance on their approach towards it, they could ſee indeed at the diſtance of ſix or ſeven miles up the country a number of houſes, but no cocoa-nut or other large trees, no beautiful plantations, ſuch as they ſaw on the iſlands of Middleburg, and Amſterdam, but a low level green within land, defended from the ſea by craggs and rocks near the ſhore. The [139] wind ſtill proving contrary, they caſt anchor where directed.

14. The Captain ordered the pinnace to be hoiſted out, and the great and ſmall cutters to be manned; and he, attended by his chief officers, and accompanied by Mr. Foſter, went on ſhore about ſix in the morning, and returned on board again about nine. The wind coming fair they weighed, and ſtood in cloſe to land, and again came to an anchor about two miles from land in 40 fathom water. Several of the natives came on board, the greateſt part of whom ſwam from the ſhore, and a few came in wretched canoes, old and rotten, and ſo ſmall that three people could barely ſit in them: they were indeed of a pretty conſtruction, but the materials were the worſt they had ever ſeen made uſe of; nor was it eaſy to conceive how, or where they procured the materials, as no trees were to be ſeen on the iſland even by thoſe who were ſent to ſurvey it. Canoes, indeed, ſeemed leſs neceſſary, as hardly any fiſh was to be ſeen upon the coaſt; from whence it is imagined, that the natives live wholly upon fowls and vegetables, no four-footed animal being mentioned in any of the relations.

The people on board made ſigns that they wanted proviſions, and ſhewed them ſeveral articles; ſuch as nails, beads, looking-glaſſes, [140] knives, ſciſſars, and the like, which they made ſigns they would give in exchange: they alſo ſhewed them ſome linen, and Otaheite-cloth. They preferred the linen, becauſe it was white; and indeed any thing of that colour ſeemed to pleaſe them beſt. The chief articles they brought to ſell were fowls, ſweet potatoes, a few plantains, and ſome bananas; but fruit as well as other proviſions were in no great plenty among them. The Chiefs on their firſt coming on board, brought five or ſix fowls ready barbicued as preſents to the Captain, who in return loaded them with trifles of ſmall value, with which they were exceedingly pleaſed. The men were of the middle ſtature, ſtrong, and apparently healthy: they were naked above and below the middle, and had only a kind of broad net-work girdle to ſurround the waiſt. The women were covered with a garment from head to foot, and were beſides, painted with a variety of colours, ſuch as orange, red, yellow, and white. They approach the neareſt to the New Zealanders in habit and appearance of any people they had yet ſeen. Thoſe who came on board had no arms; but the party that was ſent out to reconnoitre the country, found arms amongſt them that were very different in every reſpect from the arms of the iſlanders in the tropical regions. They remarked likewiſe a peculiarity [141] that was very ſingular: under their hair, which was in general ſhort and buſhy, they thought they perceived ſomething uncommon about their ears; and, upon examination, they found them of an aſtoniſhing length, but ſo nicely wrapt up, by means of the griſtles being taken out, that they appeared rather like ſmall flatted chitterlings than ears; yet when they came to be unfolded, our journaliſt ſays he meaſured one of them full five inches and a half long. Their houſes, or rather huts, were very mean, and covered all over, except a ſmall hole to creep in at, which ſerved them for door, window, and chimney. They were the greateſt thieves they met with in their whole voyage; and it was found neceſſary to ſhoot one thief to preſerve the lives of many others. Indeed the people were ready enough to ſhoot them, a common ſailor no more regarding the life of one of thoſe poor creatures who had filched from him a nail, than a countryman would regard the life of a fox that was robbing his hen-rooſt.—When the Reſolution arrived at this iſland ſhe was principally in want of water; but of water the iſland was in want too. They dug a well, but that afforded only a brackiſh bad-taſted ſupply, ſuch as they met with at the iſlands of Middleburgh and Amſterdam; nor when they had ranged the iſland through could they meet with any better; yet the natives did not ſeem to regret the want of [...] [144] authentic, and in many particulars the three accounts agree and ſerve to confirm each other.

Don Felipe Gonzalez arrived on the 16th of November 1770, in the frigate La Roſalia at this iſland, of which he gives the following deſcription: "That it is ſituated in the latitude of 27 deg. 6 min. South, and in longitude 268 deg. 19 min. Eaſt from Teneriff, anſwering to 108 deg. 8 min. Weſt from London, nearly in the ſame latitude and longitude in which our navigators found it. Whether they had ever ſeen this Spaniſh account is uncertain, as it could not have been known in Europe before the beginning of the year 1772, and they ſailed in July 1772: but be that as it may, the Spaniſh deſcription of its ſituation and ſize is remarkably correſpondent with that of our journaliſt. Its ſize, ſays Gonzalez, is about 12 or 14 leagues in circumference, and it is rather low than high. The inhabitants of both ſexes are about 3000 in number. They are a people of a docile diſpoſition, but great thieves. The men have thick beards, are tall, and well made, white and red. They keep the fire under ground, and appear to have ſome ſuperſtition in taking it out. This was obſerved when any of our people wanted to light their tobacco.

They have no other arms but ſticks and ſtones, and have much dread of artillery. [145] They are very proud of every thing red, and ſlight every other colour; except white. The men go naked, all but a broad girdle curiouſly wrought, which they tie about their waiſts in a very decent manner. Theſe girdles are wove like netting, of a material that looks like cotton, of which they make very beautiful cover-lids.

Their houſes are under ground, with a very narrow entrance; and there are beſides ſome huts made of reeds in the like form.

The ſoil is very rocky, and we ſaw no trees but a few figs, cotton, and ſhrubs. Their food is white pumpkins, plantains, ſweet-potatoes, yams, and other roots of the like kind. There are many ſprings of good water, and ſome of bad. We ſaw no birds, but ſome fowls like thoſe of Europe; and when the natives want to dreſs them, they put hot ſtones into their bellies till they are fit to be eaten. On the ſea coaſt there are not many fiſh; there are only ſome anchovies and ſmall fiſh.

They have many ſtatues of a monſtrous ſize: they are of one piece of ſtone, and of a gigantic figure; for they are ſome of them more than 20 cubits high, and others not a fourth part ſo high, near which are their burying places.

The iſland has no port, only a little cove for a long-boat, or ſmall veſſel. The greateſt [146] length is about ſix leagues. It lies Eaſt and Weſt; and it was at the Weſt end that we raiſed three croſſes upon three ſimilar little hills, teſtifying by theſe marks that we took poſſeſſion of it in the name of the King; and, in honour of his Majeſty, we named it St. Carlos.

There is no good anchoring place all round the iſland, the bottom being exceſſively bad, as we had two cables cut in leſs than forty-eight hours. We only remained five days on ſhore; at the expiration of which we went in queſt of other lands, ſaid to be ſituated in the latitude of 38 deg. S. but could find none.

This iſland, the Spaniſh voyager adds, is 600 leagues from Callao, and nearly the ſame diſtance from the main land of Chili. He calls it David's Iſland, taking it for Davis's Land, as marked in the maps; and, probably, it is the ſame, as no other land has ever been diſcovered by any other navigator near the meridian where Davis's Land has obtained a place.

Having thus briefly related what peculiarities Don Gonzalez obſerved in his five days ſtay, we ſhall in the ſame conciſe manner run over Roggewein's account, and then reſume the thread of our narrative.

On the Dutch ſhips [of which there were three] approaching the land, an Indian came [147] on board the Admiral, who was of a brown complexion, pretty tall, ſtrong, and of a briſk, gay, lively countenance. He was naked, and his body painted in various figures: his ears were extremely long, and hung down to his ſhoulders. They gave him cloth to cover himſelf; and they gave him meat to eat, and offered him wine to drink; but he threw it in his eyes. The muſicians played him a concert; the ſailors danced to the muſic, and he danced with them. They clothed him, and ſent him aſhore; but they afterwards ſhot him, as they ſay, by accident.—They brought fowls, and plenty of roots; and the Indian who firſt came on board preſented the Admiral with fowls ready dreſſed, in their manner. There was one among them quite white, [ſuch a one as was ſeen at Otaheite] and they judged by the ſolemnity of his air that he was a prieſt.

Next day they landed 150 men, at the head of whom was the Admiral. The people flocked about them by thouſands; ſome running to and fro like frantics, and others proſtrating themſelves before their idols in the attitude of prayer.

As ſome of them preſſed cloſe, and ventured to touch the arms of the ſtrangers, they fired upon them, and the friendly Indian was among thoſe who fell. Their cries and lamentations were dreadful; and they beſought the [148] murderers by every attitude of humility to ſuffer them to carry off their dead. Affected with all theſe demonſtrations of humility, theſe chriſtian plunderers vouchafed to do them no harm. Being made to underſtand that their fury was abated, and that they were diſpoſed to friendſhip, the poor creatures brought them fowls and fruits, and whatever their iſland afforded, in the greateſt abundance. They ſaw no animals on the iſland, but birds of various kinds. Their huts were from forty to ſixty feet in length, and about ſix or eight in breadth, ſupported by poles, and covered with leaves. Each family had a houſe, and each houſe had an incloſure ſeparated from every other encloſure, and formed by a line. The country appeared to be all cultivated, and when Roggewein was there the fruits of the earth, on which alone the natives appeared to ſubſiſt, were all in maturity.

Their women were cloathed with coverlids, and painted with a rouge ſurpaſſing the brightneſs of any thing of the kind known in Europe. They were not in the leaſt coy, but would by their geſtures invite to familiarities, to which the common men were not averſe. The men of the iſland had no arms, at leaſt they made uſe of none: When they were attacked they fled to their idols, of which there are many up and down the coaſt. They repreſent the figure [149] of a man with great ears, the head adorned with a crown, and the whole executed and proportioned according to the rules of art; around theſe idols are circles built of white ſtones, and they obſerved that the idols were more frequently viſited by ſome than by others; and they obſerved likewiſe that thoſe who attended them moſt had marks of diſtinction, by which they concluded they were prieſts. Theſe marks were large bobs hanging at their ears, a bonnet made of black and white feathers, and their heads ſhaven quite bare.

Bougainville has remarked that the prieſt in the Straits, when he went to work upon the Indian boy that had poiſoned himſelf by ſwallowing ſome fragments of ſhining-glaſs, put on a Mercury's cap made of feathers, in order to drive away the evil ſpirit that he thought had poſſeſt him. See Voyages of Engliſh Navigators round the World.

It muſt not, however, be forgotten, that the idols of this iſland are not in this voyage ſaid to be of ſuch a monſtrous height as the Spaniſh writer has aſcribed to them. The height of three men is the utmoſt proportion given to the largeſt of them; the ordinary deities are ſaid not to exceed the height of one. Our journaliſt ſays that ſome of theſe idols are carved in the form of mens heads, one over another.

[148]
[...]
[149]
[...]

[150]On the 16th of March our voyagers weighed anchor, and came to ſail. Wind at N. E. and ſhip's head north.

17. The ſame courſe continued till half paſt ſeven in the morning, when they ſteered with all ſails up to the N. W. Lat. at noon 26 deg. 48 min. The freſh proviſions taken in at Eaſter-Iſland were now dealt out by the captain's order, and at the captain's expence, equally among the men, namely, two pound of potatoes a man, and a bunch of bananas to each meſs; and this without reducing their ordinary allowance, an act of generoſity which produced its effect; it preſerved the crew in health, and encouraged them to undergo chearfully the hardſhips that muſt unavoidably happen in the courſe of ſo long a voyage.

18. This day the captain was taken ill again. The ſail-makers were now all buſily employed in making hoſes to catch freſh water when it rained, as none was to be expected in the courſe they were purſuing, for many hundred leagues. Lat. at noon by obſervation, 26 deg. 4 min. Wind at E. S. E. Courſe ſhaped N. N. W.

19. Saw four tropic birds. Wind at E. and E. N. E. Courſe N. by W. Lat. at noon 24 deg. 50 min. One man puniſhed this day with twelve laſhes for an unclean action.

[151]20. Courſe altered from N. by W. to N. N. W. Aired the hammocks, and cleaned and ſmoaked the ſhip, which ſervice was never omitted, when the weather and time would permit. The weather variable, ſqually with rain.

21. Pleaſant weather, with light ſhowers of rain. Lat. at noon by obſervation 21 deg. 03 min. Wind E. N. E. Courſe as before.

22. Weather altered, ſqually with rain. Wind E. and E. N. E. Courſe N. by W. and N. N. W. Lat. at noon 19 deg. 20 min. Courſe altered from N. N. W. to N. W. Saw ſeveral tropic birds.

23. The carpenters employed in paying the boats bottoms with an experimental compoſition for preſerving the timber againſt the worms. Lat. at noon by obſervation 18 deg. 10 min. Wind at E. by S. Courſe S. W.

24. Pleaſant weather, attended with light ſhowers of rain. Wind variable from E. by S. to E. by N. Courſe W. N. W. Lat. at noon 17 deg. 06 min. Saw ſeveral tropic birds.

25. Delightful weather. Wind E. Courſe as before. Lat. at noon by obſervation 16 deg. 02 min. The captain much better.

26. A freſh gale form E. S. E. Courſe N. W. Lat. at noon by obſervation 14 deg. 46 min.

[152]27. A pleaſant breeze from E. S. E. Courſe as before. Lat. at noon by obſervation 13 deg. 11 min. Wind variable all night from E. S. E. to E. by N.

28. A freſh breeze from E. S. E. Saw ſeveral flying fiſh, one man of war bird, and one egg-bird. Lat. at noon 11 deg. 44 min. Courſe continued.

29. A fine gale from the N. E. Courſe continued. Lat. at noon by obſervation 10 deg. 20 min. and long. 122 deg. W. Altered their courſe W. N. W. Saw a man of war bird and one gannet, a ſure ſign of land near.

30. Pleaſant weather. Saw a great number of flying fiſh, and one man of war bird. Lat. by obſervation 9 deg. 22 min. Shaped their courſe due Weſt. Wind at E. half S.

31. Continued their courſe with wind at E. by N. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 18 min. Altered their courſe to W. half S. Wind at E. by S.

April 1. Saw great numbers of flying fiſh. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 32 min. Wind at E. Courſe W. half S.

2. Courſe continued. Breeze at E. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 29 min.

3. Saw ſeveral tropic birds and flying fiſh. Wind at E. Courſe W. half S. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 33 min. Saw two ſharks, four pilot fiſh, and two dolphins.

[153]4. Courſe and wind as before. Very hot. Aired hammocks and cleaned ſhip every day. Lat. as before 9 deg. 33 min. long. 224 deg. E. or 136 deg. W. At three ſaw a ſhark and three albacores. At ſix ſaw a ſun fiſh.

5. Courſe continued. Wind E. by S. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 34 min. Altered their courſe W. At half paſt ſix in the evening ſhortened ſail, and hove too. Ship's head N. E. and N. N. E.

6. Saw ſeveral birds and very large flying fiſh. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 19 min. Courſe altered W. half S. At five in the afternoon they ſaw land bearing from them S. W. by S. It appeared like two hummocks or little hills and a large opening between them. Shortened ſail, and hauled up to the S. E.

7. Saw the land bearing W. S. W. At five bore away W. At ſix ſteered W. S. W. Perceived ſeveral iſlands, which proved to be the iſles known by the name of the Marqueſas, diſcovered by Mendana in 1595. Our journaliſt ſays they are of a great height, and in general their extent may be from five to twelve leagues; Quiros ſays from ſix to fifteen; Mr. Dalrymple places them between the lat. of 9 and 10 deg. S. and between the 140th and 141ſt deg. of Weſt longitude; our journaliſt between the 9th and 10th deg. of South latitude, but the longitude uncertain; yet it [154] ſhould ſeem from his noting the longitude on the 4th of April, and allowing a degree and a half a-day for the ſhip's weſting, that their ſituation cannot be much miſtaken.

At half paſt four in the morning the ſhip brought to, and caſt anchor in 30 fathom water; fine white ſand. Several canoes came from the ſhore alongſide the ſhip; but none of the natives would venture on board. They brought as a preſent to the Captain ſome bread-fruit, and a hog; and were very ready to exchange whatever they had about them for any trifles that were offered them. We know of no voyagers that have viſited theſe iſlands before ſince their firſt diſcovery: their wonder was therefore the greater, as hardly any tradition could remain of the former European viſitors, after ſo many years had elapſed ſince the Spaniards had made them feel the fatal effects of fire-arms. It is not eaſy to determine whether they were pleaſed or terrified at the approach of the ſhip, nor whether they intended to receive their viſitors hoſpitably, or were concerting means to get them in their power to cut them off. Thoſe, however, who came alongſide made a ſtrange noiſe as they rowed aſhore, and that noiſe continued the whole ſucceeding night, during which they kept fires burning on the tops of the hills, probably by way of beacons [155] to alarm the country of ſome approaching danger, or uncommon event.

8. The Indians, whatever their private intentions might be, continued to carry a fair appearance. Early in the morning they brought bread-fruit, which they exchanged for nails, bits of broken china-ware, white paper, or, in ſhort, for any thing that was ſhewn them. About ſix great numbers of them preſented themſelves on the ſhore, and ſeemed to expreſs much rejoicing, by ſhouting, dancing, leaping, and running; and in a very ſhort time after, five or ſix of them came cloſe to the ſhip's ſide; and ſigns were made to them to come on board, which they either did not, or would not underſtand; but one of them preſently unſhipped the ſide iron ſtantion, and dived with it into the ſea. All poſſible means were uſed to perſuade him to bring it back, but in vain; and, when at ſome diſtance, he roſe and got into a canoe. They were determined he ſhould not avail himſelf of the robbery, left by ſuffering him to eſcape, others might be encouraged to attempt the like exploits: orders were therefore given to fire while he was yet within reach, and it fortunately happened that he was ſhot dead, without any of his companions being hurt. There happened to be two men in the canoe; one of whom, on ſeeing what had happened, threw [156] the ſtauntion overborad, and then threw himſelf after it: the other kept baleing the blood and water out of the canoe, while the pinnace which had been launched for carrying the Captain and his company on ſhore came alongſide, to take a view of the man that was killed. The death of this man ſeemed to ſtrike the whole body of the Indians with fear and conſternation. Thoſe who were at ſea made rapidly for land; and thoſe who were dancing on the ſhore fled precipitately to the hills at a diſtance, where they howled, and made many frantic motions for more than an hour: and in the mean time ſome of the moſt daring among them attempted to cut the ropes, and carry off the ſhip's buoy; which being obſerved, one of the great guns loaded with grapeſhot was fired amongſt them, which ſoon put an end to their enterprize. Being now, to all appearance, convinced of their own inability to reſiſt, they quietly acquieſced in furniſhing whatever was demanded of them. They brought hogs, but ſparingly, as having perhaps no great ſtock upon the iſland; but of ſuch fruit as the iſland produced, they brought abundance. The Captain and the other gentlemen went aſhore in the pinnace, and landed without oppoſition. But, previouſly to their embarkation, there came a canoe to the ſhip in which was a meſſenger, who held in his hand [157] a green bough with a white flag faſtened to it, which he preſented to the Captain, with ſix ſmall hogs. Theſe the Captain received, placing the bough with the flag at the gang-way of the ſhip, at the ſame time diſplaying another white flag ſo conſpicuouſly at the maſt head, that the inhabitants might ſee it at a great diſtance from the hills on the land. Peace being in this manner concluded, all farther hoſtilities ceaſed on both ſides. The gentlemen were permitted to range the iſland without interruption. The waterers found water in great plenty, and very good; inſomuch, that what remained of the water taken in at Eaſter Iſland was all bilged, and thrown into the ſea. The iſland which the Captain made choice of to caſt anchor, appears to be the ſame to which the Spaniards gave the name of Dominica. Our journaliſt deſcribes it as lying E. by. N. and W. by S. and Quiros as lying N. E. and S. W. a difference not very conſiderable where exactneſs was not much regarded on either ſide.

The inhabitants, particularly the men, for very few of the women made their appearance, were rather of the largeſt ſize: they were ſtrong, active, and well ſhaped; and were in general more elegantly painted than any they had yet met with, even more ſo than the New-Zealanders, having their very lips tattowed; [158] and the figures on their faces and breaſts ſo curiouſly traced and delineated, that no painter in Europe could have ſketch'd the outline of a bird, fiſh, or animal, with more nicety, or with greater exactneſs. It was ſomewhat remarkable, that among them there were many with the loſs of their left eye.

When the pinnace returned the Captain brought with him ſix hogs, a conſiderable quantity of bread-fruit, and ſome plantains. They ſaw no cocoa-nut trees growing upon the iſland; but cocoa-nut trees there certainly were, as the inhabitants brought ſome to ſell as ſoon as the courſe of trade was placed in a regular channel. The men were in general naked, except a thin covering round the waiſt. The women were covered from head to foot with a ſort of white cloth, not unlike the Otaheite cloth in fabric, but not ſo fine. Few of them appeared; and thoſe who did appear were far from being handſome. Quiros, however, has given a very different account. He ſays, that very fine women were ſeen there, but acknowledges he did not ſee any of them himſelf, which ſeems to confirm what our journaliſt has obſerved, that few of them appear: but perſons of rank who did ſee them aſſured Quiros, that they were as beautiful as thoſe of Lima; and there are (ſays he) very beautiful women at Lime. Their countenances [159] were pleaſant, they had delicate hands, genteel body and waiſt, exceeding much in perfection the moſt beautiful ladies of Lima; they were ſufficiently white, but not ſo roſy; they were clad from the waiſt downwards with a ſort of tunicks, artfully woven of the fineſt palm. The only arms our journaliſt ſaw among theſe iſlanders, were javelins, which they threw with great dexterity and force, and ſlings, with which they fling ſtones to an incredible diſtance; their muſical inſtruments are drums and conchs.

9. On ſome affront offered by the ſailors to their women, word was brought that the natives were all retired to the mountains, taking their women and children along with them. This cauſed great uneaſineſs, as all trade was now at an end, and nothing to be procured but water. Some perſons, however, were deputed to make up the breach, who carried preſents with them of ſuch things as it was thought would be moſt acceptable. The gentlemen, who were appointed to execute this commiſſion, ſo effectually brought about a reconciliation, that they returned loaded with fruit. It was, however, thought adviſeable to be always upon the watch. In conſequence whereof a party of marines was placed as a guard to protect the waterers from inſult, while they were employed in filling water. This was [160] a principal buſineſs, to which the greateſt attention was every day paid.

The captain and gentlemen who accompanied him, having ſufficiently reconnoitred the country adjoining to the bay where the ſhip rode at anchor, embraced the opportunity, while the crew were all buſy, to viſit a bay at ſome diſtance to the ſouthward, in order to learn what that part of the country would produce, and to endeavour to extend the trade for hogs, cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. This excurſion was attended with very good effects; they found the natives very amicably diſpoſed, and very ready to bring to market whatever the country produced. Here the captain purchaſed eighteen hogs, a large quantity of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, and returned again about ſeven in the evening. In this bay, where the natives were not alarmed by the brutality of the common men, the women were not afraid to be ſeen; nor was the leaſt diſtruſt perceivable on either ſide. The natives brought down their hogs and fruit to the ſhore, and the perſon appointed to be purveyor ſhewed the articles he had to exchange, and the natives were leſt at full liberty to chuſe, each what he liked beſt; the purveyor fixed the value. The articles they ſeemed moſt to admire were picture cards, pieces of Chineſe paper, and kind of China ware, or any thing [161] made of glaſs, nails, and bits of red cloth. For trifles of this kind they readily exchanged their hogs and fruit. The news of this honeſt dealing having ſpread over the iſland, and reached the adjoining iſles, the ſhip was next day ſurrounded with more than fifty canoes, loaded with proviſions of various kinds, among which was a fruit which ſeemed peculiar to theſe Iſlands: It is thus deſcribed by Thevenot,—it is about the ſize of an ordinary melon, and is not unlike ſome generae of that fruit in ſhape; it grows upon trees, and when growing is of a deep green, but when ripe is of a fine delicate poliſhed green, though the outſide appears rough and jagged, with croſs rays not unlike the pine apple. The figure is not quite round, but ſomewhat narrower at the point than at the ſtalk, from whence grows a core that reaches to the middle, and within this core is a web; it has no ſtone or kernel, nor any thing uſeleſs except the outſide, and that is very thin; the reſt is all eatable, and makes but one maſs, which is very delicious, nouriſhing, and wholeſome. The people who brought this fruit were very civil and courteous; they had their hair dreſſed in a ſingular manner, being parted and tied up in two knots behind not unlike the wigs formerly worn by gentlemen of diſtinction, and now only by counſellors at the bar. Their beards too were ſhorn in a [162] peculiar manner, and tied underneath their chins. This manner of tying the hair did not however appear to be intended as a mark to diſtinguiſh one claſs of people from another, but was only a variety or faſhion which every one might or might not follow as he pleaſed. But there was one thing particular, and which ſeemed to be univerſal among the males; and that was, the prepuce was tied back in ſuch a manner as to anſwer all the purpoſes of circumciſion, without being circumciſed. Among the tropical iſlanders, with whoſe manners and cuſtoms our late diſcoverers have made us acquainted, the free indulgence of the women is a leading character; but in theſe iſlands the reverſe of that character ſeems to be the fact. In the Society and all the neighbouring iſles, the women make not the leaſt ſcruple of expoſeing themſelves in the moſt laſcivious manner to the view of the European ſtrangers; but here they held indelicacy in the utmoſt abhorrence; and it ſhould ſeem that a frolickſome attempt of a ſailor had driven the women and children of a whole diſtrict out of the reach of ſuch another inſult; yet where they were in no danger of affronts of the like kind, they were in no fear of ſhewing themſelves. Thus we may remark the different diſpoſitions of mankind diſperſed all over the world, influenced it ſeems by no climate, but directed at firſt by [163] ſome ſuperintending power, and afterwards conducted by the ruling paſſions, and confirmed by habit.

Our journaliſt ſaw none of their houſes but from the ſhip; they appeared to be ſmall and contemptible little huts, covered with platted leaves, and ſupported by the trunks of trees. Indeed the inhabitants ſo near the line require no large or pompous buildings to defend them from the weather. Shade and coolneſs, and a ſlender covering from the dews and little rain that falls in that delightful climate, are all that nature requires; and where ſplendour is not the object, there will be no emulation. The only ambition diſcoverable among theſe people was in dreſſing their hair, and ornamenting their heads; ſeveral of them had caps very curiouſly wrought in ſhapes not inelegant, and compoſed of feathers of various colours interſperſed with ſpangles of mother of pearl, that looked very gay and were very becoming. The moſt conſpicuous mark of diſtinction appeared to be tattowing. In this the difference was very diſcernable. The chiefs were tattowed from their faces to their fingers ends, not in volutes or ſpiral lines like the chiefs in New Zealand; but in figures of various kinds, ſuited to the different parts of the body, according to the artiſt's fancy, in which no ſmall ingenuity was diſplayed. Perhaps [164] the different qualities of thoſe chiefs might have been diſcovered by obſerving the characters repreſented; but time was wanting for ſuch nice obſervations.

Quiros, the Spaniſh voyager, who gave the firſt account of theſe people, ſays, they are white and of a gentle diſpoſition, large and ſtout limbed, and ſo well ſhaped as greatly to ſurpaſs the Spaniards; that they had beautiful teeth, eyes, and features, and among them were ſome of the handſomeſt boys with flowing hair he had ever beheld; that all of them were naked; that their bodies, legs, and arms, were painted; and that ſome had their faces painted; that moſt of the Spaniards appeared of low ſtature compared to the men; and that among them was one taller and ſtouter than any perſon in the Spaniſh fleet; that being encouraged to come on board, about forty of them entered the Admiral's ſhip at once, and became ſo troubleſome that his Excellency was obliged to give orders to fire upon them, by which five or ſix of them were ſhot dead; that on this unexpected ſalute they fled to ſhore, threatening vengeance by brandiſhing their lances; that they ſoon returned, and began an attack by throwing ſtones from ſlings at an incredible diſtance; but their chief being ſhot through the head by a bullet, and ſeven or eight of his followers being likewiſe [165] killed, and many more wounded, the reſt thought fit to make a precipitate retreat, and preſently after retired to the mountains with their women and children; that then the Admiral with his lady and family landed; that he ordered maſs to be ſaid by his chaplain on ſhore, at which ſome antient Indians who ſtill remained in their houſes attended, and behaved with decency, kneeling when the Spaniards kneeled, and bowing when they bowed; that after ſome time, while the Spaniards were employed to take in wood and water, the natives came down in ſtraggling parties, and ſhewed a deſire of being reconciled, bringing with them preſents of fruit, and ſome fowls: theſe were kindly received, and by degrees a friendly intercourſe was eſtabliſhed, which continued during the whole time the Admiral with his retinue remained on ſhore; but he was ſcarce ſettled on board when the old quarrel was revived. The Spaniards were again attacked with lances and ſtones, and the natives were again driven to the woods and the mountains.

Their houſes, Quiros obſerves, are built upon poſts, and the floors are a ſtory higher than the ſtreets, and many people appeared to live in the ſame houſe. At a diſtance from the town which we viſited, ſays he, there ſtood a temple ſurrounded with palliſades, [166] with the entrance to the Weſt, and a houſe almoſt in the middle with the door to the North, in which were ſome figures of wood, ill wrought; and there were offerings of eatables, among which was a hog; of this the ſoldiers made prize, and were about to carry off other things, but were prevented by the natives, who were highly enraged at the violence which had been done to their holy offerings. He obſerves, that in the mornings and evenings all with one voice made a ſonorous and harmonious chanting, and at length ſhewed an inclination to do miſchief, probably for the violence offered to their place of worſhip. One, however, who appeared to be more civilized than the reſt, ſeemed to take a great liking to the chaplain on board, who was not leſs fond of the Indian than the Indian was of him, and took great pleaſure in aſking him queſtions about the moſt obvious objects in view; particularly by what names they called the heavens, earth, ſun, moon, ſtars, and the like. To which he gave anſwers which left no room to doubt that he perfectly underſtood the queſtions that were aſked him.

Being invited on board, the firſt thing that attracted his notice was the cattle and other animals that he ſaw upon deck; at which he ſeemed to expreſs his ſurprize, eſpecially at [167] the cows and ſheep. He alſo was very curious in viewing the conſtruction of the ſhip, her maſts, her rigging, her ornaments, and the many conveniences with which ſhe was furniſhed; and he noted every thing that was ſhewn him with more than Indian attention. The chaplain offered him ſweetmeats and wine, but he would taſte of neither; but ſeeing the ſhips weighing anchor, he preſſed to be ſet aſhore; and when he was landed rejoiced exceedingly. Such is the only account we had of theſe iſlanders before Capt. Cooke touched upon their coaſt, who having ſupplied the ſhip with wood and water, and with what other neceſſaries the iſland produced; and having ſurveyed the bays, while Mr. Foſter and his aſſociates were taking a view of the land, on the 11th he gave orders for getting all things in readineſs to ſail; and about four the ſame afternoon they weighed anchor and came to ſea, tacking every hour to clear the ſtraits between the iſlands, they being ſituated in reſpect to each other nearly in a ſquare, which made the navigation both difficult and dangerous.

April 12. The morning pleaſant, a mild breeze attended with gentle ſhowers, and the ſea open. About ten the ſhip ſpread all her canvas, and proceeded at a moderate rate, directing her courſe to the S. S. W. with the wind at E. S. E.

[168]13. The weather continuing pleaſant, with now and then gentle ſhowers, and ſome lightening, great attention was paid to airing the ſhip, and keeping all things clean. At this time not a man was ſick on board. Latitude at noon by obſervation 10 deg. 57½ min. Wind at E. by S. Courſe as before. At night hove to with the ſhip's head to the South Eaſt.

14. At five in the morning bore away as before. Lat. at noon by obſervation 12 deg. 24 min. Wind at E. Courſe altered to S. W. At eight in the evening hove to, ſhip's head to the S. S. E.

15. A ſmart dry gale at E. S. E. At five in the morning bore away as before; ſhip's way 7½ knots. The Indian very healthy, and quite eaſy and contented, as if at his own home, but learns Engliſh very ſlowly. Lat. at noon by obſervation 13 deg. 40 min. Freſh breezes and fair weather. At eight in the evening hove to, with the ſhip's head to the S. E. all night.

16. A freſh breeze at Eaſt. At half paſt five bore away W. half S. At ſeven ſaw three dolphins and two birds. Lat. at noon 14 deg. 16 min. Saw a man of war bird. At ſix ſhortened ſail. At eight hove to with the ſhip's head to S. S. E.

17. A freſh breeze at Eaſt. At five bore away; and at half paſt ſeven ſaw a ſtrange bird and two dolphins, and ſome ſea-weeds. [169] At ten the man at the maſt head called out Land, bearing about Weſt. This land had been ſeen by Commodore Byron, in the Dolphin's firſt Voyage round the World; it is very extenſive, and appears at a great diſtance, like an aſſemblage of many ſmall iſles, full of trees. Mr. Byron clalled it George's-Iſland. Lat. at noon 214 deg. 26½ min. At noon they were at the N. W. ſide of it, and about one in the afternoon hoiſted the large cutter out and ſent her in ſhore to ſound. At half paſt two hoiſted the pinnace out; and the large cutter came on board. The pinnace and cutter went on ſhore, well armed, with the firſt and third lieutenants, and other gentlemen, to reconnoitre the coaſt; the natives came from the other ſide of a lagoon that ſeemed to part the iſland, arm'd in large canoes; ſome of them brought one cocoa-nut in their hands, but would ſcarce trade at all; they wanted every thing they ſaw without making a return. They were in general furniſhed with long ſpears and lances, pointed with ſting-ray tail-bones. They made a hideous noiſe among themſelves, and ſome were for ſeizing the people's muſquets, while others took to the buſhes, and arming themſelves with ſpears, advanced towards the boats. The gentlemen, unwilling to proceed to extremities, put off, and brought the captain an account of their inhoſpitable behaviour. The [170] captain ordered the guns to be loaded with round ſhot, and to be fired juſt over the point where they were aſſembled; two of the ſhot went through the trees, and they could perceive from the ſhip one large cocoa-nut tree fall; other two went right through the place where the natives were poſted, in a direction parallel with the horizon. They could hear them ſcream and make a fearful noiſe. After being in this manner intimidated, without which nothing can be done with theſe people, they brought in their boats 27 cocoa-nuts, and 6 dogs; the dogs were in general ſmall and thick, with a large head, not unlike that of our bull dogs. Theſe Indians were in general ſtour made men, tall, and well proportioned; and the women altogether as ordinary. They had no cloathing, except a piece of white netting about their waiſts, but they were copiouſly marked about the breaſt and arms with fiſhes and other ſea animals. They were the moſt ſavage looking ſet of people, our journaliſt ſays, he had ſeen throughout the voyage, and were of a colour nearly approaching to black; they had black hair, tyed by ſome on the back part, and by others on the top of their heads; none of them were painted. Their houſes were like dogkennels, about the length and breadth of a man, and not two feet high, thatched with cocoa-nut leaves; they ſpoke quite quick, and [171] eat their words, as the ſea-faring phraſe is, like the New Guinea negroes.

Commodore Byron, who firſt gave name to this iſland, found the inhabitants equally inhoſpitable, and equally inclined to miſchief. In a ſkirmiſh which his people had with a ſtrong party of them, they killed three, and wounded ſeveral more, on which the whole body, men, women, and children, fled to the woods and mountains, and were not more ſeen. On the Tamar's boats firſt approaching the ſhore, one of the natives got into her, and in the twinkling of an eye ſeized a ſeaman's jacket, and jumping over-board with it never once appeared above water till he was cloſe in ſhore, and mingled with the reſt of his companions; another of them got hold of a midſhipman's hat, but not knowing how to take it off, inſtead of lifting it up pulled it down, ſo that the owner had time to prevent its being taken away. In the ferocity of the natives the Commodore's relation agrees with that of our journaliſt, and ſo it does in the meanneſs of their hovels, but adds that they are delightfully ſituated.

It appears, however, that though Commodore Byron gave name to this iſland, the Dolphin and Tamar were not the firſt European ſhips that had viſited it; for it will hardly be conteſted, after what has been ſaid by the [172] editor of the Hiſtorical Account of all the Voyages round the World performed by Engliſh Navigators, that it was here the African galley, one of Taſman's ſquadron, was ſhipwrecked, and that part of the crew fell victims to the rage of theſe barbarians; but it is by no means clear that the inhabitants, though ferocious, are man-eaters; on the contrary, the preſumption is rather againſt that notion, as the writer of the Commodore's Voyage ſeems to think that the cocoa-nut trees furniſh them with food, and almoſt all the other neceſſaries fo life. Dogs, however, it is almoſt certain, make a part of their luxuries; for our journaliſt takes notice, after a number of them had been ſlain, that dogs were brought as peace-offerings, to appeaſe the wrath of their murderers, which they would not have done, had they not thought them delicacies; he further obſerves, that every native had his dog; and when the houſes were deſerted, the dogs remained and made a moſt terrific noiſe in the night by their howling. From ſeveral circumſtances, Commodore Byron was of opinion, that a profitable pearl-fiſhery might be eſtabliſhed on this and the adjacent iſlands of which we are giving an account; but later diſcoveries have ſhewn, that pearls are as rare in them as in Europe; none of any conſiderable ſize or remarkable [173] beauty having been yet found on any of them. Good water, ſcurvy graſs, and plenty of cocoa-nuts were however found here, of which the honeſt Engliſhmen made no ſcruple to load their boats, though they had before ſhot a number of the natives for carrying away a jacket.

It has been remarked, and perhaps with juſtice, that the veſſels for navigation in every country diſplay the utmoſt efforts of genius of which the inhabitants are capable in their conſtruction; and that by the formation of them the ingenuity of a people may be eſtimated. If this obſervation is admitted, the people of George's iſland will not be thought deſtitute of invention. Their canoes, ſays Commodore Byron, are of very curious conſtruction, and muſt coſt them infinite labour. They conſiſt of planks exceedingly well wrought, and in many places adorned with carving; theſe planks are ſewed together, and over every ſeam there is a ſtrip of tortoiſeſhell, very artificially inlaid to keep out the water. Their bottoms are ſharp as a wedge, and the whole body is very narrow; and therefore two of them are generally joined together by a couple of croſs ſpars, ſo that a ſpace from ſix to eight feet is left open between them. Thus united, a maſt is hoiſted in each of them, and a ſail ſpread between [174] the maſts. This ſail is made of matting moſt curiouſly woven, and their cordage, though made of the outer bark of the cocoa nut, is admirable. Such is the nature, and ſuch the art of the people of this remote iſland.

Our voyagers, having availed themſelves all they could of the produce of the iſland, and gratified their curioſity in viſiting their places of worſhip, and the repoſitories of their dead, about ſix in the evening the pinnace and large cutter were hoiſted in, and there being no anchorage the ſhip lay off and on all night.

18. A freſh breeze from the eaſtward ſpringing up, at five in the morning bore away, and made ſail to the S. S. W. and came in ſight of another fine pleaſant iſland, and ſteered S. S. W. along ſhore, but did not land; though here the Dolphin and Tamar found the inhabitants much more hoſpitable than in the great iſland. Lat. at noon by obſervation 14 deg. 33 min. Saw great numbers of birds and ſeveral fiſh. At eight hauled up to the S. S. E. Wind at Eaſt. At twelve tacked and ſtood to the N. N. E. it being hazardous to proceed, the moon being down.

19. A pleaſant breeze from the eaſtward. At three ſtood to the S. S. E. At five bore away S. W. by S. Wind at E. S. E. At half paſt ſeven ſaw land, bearing Weſt, a low iſland, extending to a conſiderable diſtance. At ten [175] came in ſight of another iſland, bearing S. S. E. Ship's courſe S. W. At eleven bore away W. S. W. At one perceived a reef to run as far as we could ſee, conſiſting of a chain of ſmall iſlands, from a quarter of a mile to one mile and a half from each other: theſe little ſpots abounded with cocoa-nut trees, and the reefs of rocks which divided them were at times dry; ſo that in general they could be reckoned nothing elſe but one continued chain of iſlands. The ſailors imagined there were turtle about them, as they ſaw the natives buſy on many of thoſe reefs.—About three leagues to the ſouthward, or S. S. W. of this range of iſles, they could plainly perceive ſeveral other iſlands that ſeemed to be larger than theſe, and chained together in the ſame manner. Iſlands, and chains of iſlands, continued to preſent themſelves almoſt hourly, without any other material occurrence happening till the 21ſt, when they made George's Iſland, bearing S. S. W. (the ſouth part.) At half paſt eleven ſteered W. Lat. noon 16 deg. 50 min. At one ſteered W. half S.—At ſix ſhortened ſail, being about three leagues from the land, hauled up to the northward, and lay off and on all night.

22. At nine brought to in Mattavey-bay, and the reſt of the day employed in mooring the ſhip, furling the ſails, and getting the tents [176] and other requiſites on ſhore. All this day great numbers of the natives thronged about the ſhip, to expreſs their joy on the arrival of their old friends; among whom the girls were no ſmall part of the company. It was now remarked, that the Otaheite girls were no leſs artful than the London miſtreſſes; each was anxious to know what preſents their lovers had brought them, where they had been, what curioſities they had met with, and no favours were now to be expected till the cheſt was opened, and they complimented with what they liked beſt. The freedoms that had been granted formerly were all forgotten, and new kindneſſes were to be purchaſed with new valuables. Some indeed there were among them who expreſſed a real affection for the men they loved, but theſe were rare; for moſt of them choſe to attach themſelves to new admirers, by whom they expected to be more liberally rewarded than by their old mates. They were not now as formerly to be gratified with a nail; but inſiſted upon ſomething equivalent in value to what would content a London miſtreſs, and no pence, no pater-noſter. It is a fact that ſome of the ſailors ſquandered all they had, and all they could get credit for, upon them. Such are the mercenary tempers of the ladies of pleaſure all over the world.

[177]23. All hands were employed in preparations for refitting the ſhip; and the armourer's forge being put up, ſome of the men were eager to make uſe of it for their own private advantage before it was ſet to work for the repairs of the ſhip; but being diſcovered, were ſeverely puniſhed; and, not only he who uſed it, but he who ſuffered it to be uſed, was equally ſentenced to receive twelve laſhes.

24. The buſineſs to be done being ſettled, that part of the crew who were unemployed had leave to go on ſhore; and ſo alternately; and as two-thirds were fully ſufficient to be on duty at a time, the other third were allowed to go on ſhore at a time; ſo that none had reaſon to complain but thoſe who tranſgreſſed the rules. This day king Portotow with ſeveral of his nobles and great men came to pay their compliments to the Captain, and to make the uſual preſents on his arrival. Theſe preſents are always tendered as a free gift; but if a return is not made in the ſame way of more than the value, the giver conſiders it as an affront, and generally ſome inconvenience is obſerved to follow. The king with his retinue came in double canoes, ſuch as were ſeen by our voyaagers at King George's Iſlands: but theſe double canoes, it muſt be obſerved, were not the canoes of Ottaheite, but ſuch as it is probable came from ſome neighbouring iſle, and [178] only are ſeen here when theſe mighty chiefs vouchſafe to viſit each other, or to pay a more than ordinary compliment to ſtrangers. King Portotow brought with him three large hogs, and a conſiderable quantity of the fineſt cloth the country afforded, which he preſented to the Captain, who received his preſents, and entertained his followers, each according to his rank; and being ſhewn the curioſities brought from Middleburgh and Amſterdam, ſome beautiful ſcarlet feathers took place of every other article, and became ſo high in the eſtimation of thoſe Chiefs, that for a plume they would give a hog. And now Amſterdam feathers took the lead in all their bargains; and happy the ſailor who had been provident enough to lay in a ſtock.

25. This day it thundered, lightened, and rained to that degree that no man on board had ever remembered the like. The claps of thunder were ſo loud and terrifying, that one could hardly conceive the report of 10,000 cannon fired off at one and the ſame inſtant to be more tremendous. The lightening appeared about the maſts and rigging like vortices of blue flame, the violence of which could only be abated by the torrents of rain that accompanied the lightening, and in all probability ſaved the ſhip from being ſet on fire. This ſtorm laſted for three hours, and [179] was the moſt terrifying our journaliſt ever beheld. The afternoon was fair, and the natives came in from all quarters to welcome their friends; and to bring hogs and fruit to ſell for implements of iron, which ſtill bore a value among the multitude. The women now had made their choice, and when their mates were reſtrained from ſleeping on ſhore, they made no ſort of ſcruple to come on board to ſleep with them.

26. The whole iſland ſeemed to be in agitation, and it was imagined that a general muſter of their whole force had taken place, preparatory to ſome grand warlike expedition, which the natives had in view. Above 600 canoes were ranged in order of battle. In each of theſe canoes were placed upright in ſockets, a certain number of lances of various lengths, moſt of them headed with the tail bones of the ſting-ray, the wounds with which generally prove mortal; and they had beſides heaps of ſtones piled up on ſtages, in like manner as cannon-balls are piled up in European arſenals. This warlike appearance attracted the notice of Captain Cooke and his officers, who ordered the pinnace to be inſtantly got in readineſs, and went himſelf to obſerve their motions; but upon his approach, they ſeparated, and every man retired to his own home. Whatever was the intent of this muſter, whether it [180] was only an occaſional review, or whether it was preparatory to an attack upon any of the neigbouring iſlands, or with a view to ſurprize the ſhip, no meaſure that followed gave ſufficient grounds to determine.

27. All things appeared peaceable, the Indians came as uſual about the ſhip to trade, and the gentlemen and others employed themſelves on ſhore without moleſtation. It was however judged neceſſary to keep a watchful eye over them, leſt over-ſecurity ſhould invite any miſchievous attempt.

From the 27th of April, till the 8th of May nothing worth relating happened to the ſhip's company; but on that day the coopers being at work in repairing the caſks by the river ſide, they miſſed one of the number, and could not conceive by what inviſible hand it could have been conveyed away, as a watch was ſet in the night to prevent any ſuch accident, and a guard in the day kept conſtantly at the tents; thoſe of the ſhip's crew who happened to be on ſhore were all ſtrictly examined, as well as the watch and the guard; and one and all declared they knew nothing of the theft, nor was it likely they ſhould, having no means of concealing the thing ſtolen. Complaint was therefore made to the chiefs, who, in compliment to the gentlemen reſided near the tents, that a theft had been committed, and that none but the ſubtileſt [181] among their people could be the robber. It was therefore inſiſted, that ſtrict ſearch ſhould be made, and that as the thing loſt was of ſuch a bulk as not eaſily to be ſecreted, it was urged that it might be recoverd, and the offender brought to juſtice, if thoſe who were employed in the purſuit were in earneſt to detect him. To this remonſtrance, menaces were added, and the whole iſland threatened if the caſk was not produced, and the thief delivered up. This cauſed great conſternation and confuſion among the chiefs; they preſently aſſembled a large body of their people together, which they have a ready way of doing, and one of the chiefs made a long and very peremptory ſpeech, which he delivered with a ſevere countenance; and as ſoon as he had ended, ſeveral perſons were obſerved to purſue different routs, in order as it proved to apprehend the felon: It was ſome time before he was found, but it has been obſerved by former voyagers, that whenever any capital theft was meditated, their chiefs had ſome general knowledge of the intent before it was carried into execution, and yet it was not believed that they were either to be partakers of the booty or parties in the deſign. Something like this ſecret intelligence was very obſervable in the caſe we are now relating; for a more artful robbery never was deviſed.

[182]On the 9th of May the offender was brought in triumph by one party, and the caſk by another.

Upon his examination it appeared, that the fellow had laid his ſcheme ſome time before he executed it; that he had prepared for it by contriving a cavity in an over-grown buſhy part of a ſedgy ſwamp adjoining to the river, juſt big enough to contain the caſk; and this being ready, he went in the dead of the night to a winding nook at ſome diſtance from the watch and ſentry, but within hearing of both when every thing was ſtill. Here he plunged himſelf into the water, and kept floundering about till he had attracted the notice of the guard, and when by peeping over the bank, he perceived they were making towards the place where the noiſe was; he ſwam ſilently under water, till he came near the ſpot where the caſk he had in view was ſtanding on the edge of the bank. This he ſoftly pulled into the water, and made off with it, placing it between his neck and his ſhoulders, that he might not alarm the guard upon their return by the noiſe of puſhing it before him in the water: they were ſome conſiderable time in ſearching about in order to diſcover what had occaſioned ſo ſtrange a plunging, during which the fellow found means to ſecret his prize, which he had ſo artfully covered, that it might have [183] lain many years without being found, had not the hider confeſſed in what manner he had diſpoſed of it. Though the ingenuity of this fellow might have pleaded his pardon, yet it was judged neceſſary to puniſh him as a terror to others: he was therefoer tied up and ſeverely whipt after the manner of the diſcipline of the navy for offences of the like nature; and this was done in preſence of the Chiefs of the iſland, and a great concourſe of the natives who attended the execution, and who looked with an evil eye upon thoſe concerned in what they called a cruel puniſhment.

This, however, cruel as it was thought, did not deter others from committing the like offences; for it was not long before another of them was detected on board the ſhip in ſtealing two jackets, and being caught in the fact, was tied to the geers, and received twelve laſhes.

Much about this time one of the ſentinels upon the watch unfortunately falling aſleep, loſt his muſket, This was judged to be a theft of much greater conſequence than either of the other two; for though it was certain they could make no bad uſe of one muſket, and one charge of powder and ball, yet as it had been the conſtant policy of thoſe who viſited the iſland before, to keep the natives as ignorant as poſſible in the uſe of fire-arms, the [184] Captain determined to furniſh them with no means of enlarging their knowledge from any neglect of his. He therefore began by puniſhing the ſentinel in a moſt exemplary manner for his breach of duty, that the natives might be eye-witneſſes of the ſeverity with which the people belonging to the ſhip were puniſhed when they committed any offence; and being informed that prince Ottoo was privy to the theft, and that he was removed from Eparre, the royal reſidence, to a diſtant part of the country, the Captain diſpatched a meſſenger after him. At the ſame time ſeveral other great men, having embarked in their canoes, were making off with all poſſible ſecrecy and haſte; but being diſcovered from the ſhip, were inſtantly purſued. The Captain, who himſelf commanded in the purſuit, made ſignals for them to bring to, to which they paid no regard: at length he gave orders to fire; but as none of them were hurt by that order they rowed on. The fire was renewed, and the bullets flying thick about their boats, they at length thought proper to yield. When they were taken on board, they were ſhewn the ſentinel in irons, and were given to underſtand that he was again to be puniſhed if his muſket was not returned, and that he would in the end be killed for not killing the man in attempting to ſteal and to carry it away. This [185] was ſaid to move their pity; for they are very compaſſionate, and will weep bitterly at the ſight of a perſon in the agony of pain; but their tears are like the tears of children, eaſily excited, and as eaſily dried up. They were at the ſame time told, that, as by their flight it was manifeſt that they were not unacquainted with the robbery, and that there was reaſon to ſuſpect, that if prince Ottoo was not himſelf the robber, he had been inſtrumental in promoting it, if they did not cauſe it to be returned in a limited time, the Captain declared with a ſevere tone of voice, that he would ſet fire to every boat about the iſland, and would not leave them a ſingle veſſel to go out to fiſh with. This was obſerved to work a much more powerful effect than the method taken to excite their pity. They deſired to be releaſed, and promiſed to recover the muſket, and to ſend it on board; and in this they kept their word.

The very next morning a party of the natives brought it in a kind of rapture, as if by returning it they had delivered their country from impending ruin; as ruin it would certainly have been, had their boats been burnt. This party aſſured the Captain, by meſſage from prince Ottoo, that he had left the fellow who had ſtolen the muſket dead in the woods, and deſired an interview with him to [186] convince him of the fact. The Captain returned for anſwer, that he would wait upon the prince at the royal palace, to which he might return in ſafety, and that he wanted no other evidence of the truty of what they had reported than the prince's royal word. He diſmiſſed the meſſengers with preſents; and to fulfil his promiſe, began to prepare himſelf for a viſit to Eparre, the place appointed for the interview with Ottoo, for till that was obtained, and the affair reconciled, all trade was totally prohibited, and not a ſingle article to be purchaſed at any price.

Next day ſome of Ottoo's chief officers came aboard, and acquainted the Captain, that Ottoo was ſtill under great concern, and rather wiſhed to receive him at the place of his preſent reſidence than at Eparre; but that if he would condeſcend to come without a guard, he would meet him at the palace. The Captain having nothing more in view than to reeſtabliſh a good underſtanding with the natives, very readily gave his conſent to come unattended; and farther aſſured them, if his highneſs was ſtill under any dread, he would ſend one of his officers as a ſecurity that no indignity ſhould be offered to his perſon, nor any inſult to any of his retinue, provided they behaved with becoming reſpect. This having diſſipated his fears, the manner of the viſit was [187] ſettled, and the time fixed for the parties to meet, which was at nine the next morning.

As the diſtance from the ſhip was about four miles, and no carriage to be had, the Captain ſet out pretty early with only Mr. Foſter, and one or two officers to attend him. When he arrived he found the prince ſitting in a very penſive mood; but when he was told that the gentlemen who were now before him were all the retinue the Captain had brought with him, he reaſſumed a more chearful and lively air, and expreſſed his deſire to renew the peace by all the humiliating ways he could invent. The Captain, on the other hand, knowing the conſequences of widening the breach, received his ſubmiſſion with the greateſt alacrity, and entered familiarly into converſation with the women, who always on theſe occaſions make a part of the company, as did the other gentlemen with thoſe indifferently who compoſed the circle. Thus matters being cleared up, and all that had paſt forgiven on both ſides, the Captain was deſirous of taking his leave, and in return invited the prince and his nobles to accompany him on board; but this they all declined, as not being properly prepared, they, however, gave him to underſtand, that it ſhould not be long before they accepted of his invitation. Accordingly in a few days prince Ottoo with many of his [188] chiefs and attendants in three canoes were obſerved making towards the ſhip. They had with them as preſents, hogs, fruit, and cloth; and they inſiſted that no return ſhould be made for any thing that they preſented; and, not to give offence, nothing was offered, but a variety of curioſities were laid in their way, which the Captain knew it was almoſt impoſſible for thoſe people to refuſe. They looked wiſhfully at many things, but touched nothing. They were preſſed to dine, and they did not ſeem diſpleaſed with the attention paid them: they were entertained and amuſed by various ways till dinner was ready, and particularly with muſic and dancing in a groteſque taſte, which gave them infinite pleaſure, as among other humorous performances a hornpipe was introduced, at which they could ſcarce contain themſelves. When notice was given that dinner was upon the table, and chairs were ſet, it was no ſmall diverſion to ſee the aukward figure they made, for they neither knew how to ſit upon a chair, nor how to feed themſelves with knife and fork. Their Chiefs are fed like children by their ſervants; but ſome ſoups being prepared, and ſpoons put into their hands, they made ſhift to help themſelves with thoſe, and to eat heartily. They were offered wines of various ſorts unmixed, and afterwards mixed with water, but they [189] would drink nothing but water. Such is the force of cuſtom, that water by them was preferred to the moſt precious liquor the ſhip afforded.

After they had dined they were again diverted with muſic and dancing, to which they paid the greateſt attention; and in the evening, after tea had been ſerved up, they departed, highly delighted with their day's entertainment.

While theſe things were tranſacting on board, the launch was employed on ſhore in getting in wood for the ſhip's uſe; but, as it is uſual, when the principal officers are engaged, and the command entruſted to inferiors, the failors will take liberties on thoſe occaſions, which at other times they would not dare to aſſume, two of thoſe who were ordered to do duty on board, inſtead of cutting wood, ſtrayed up the country in ſearch of new miſtreſſes; and before their return, the launch had left her ſtation, and was gone on board. This was a grievous diſappointment, and reduced the poor fellows to the diſagreeable alternative of either hiring a canoe to take them on board, or returning to the woods to the company they had juſt deſerted. In either caſe they knew they ſhould be puniſhed; but for lying out much more ſeverely than for immediately following the launch. The latter, [190] therefore, they made their choice in hope, as hope ſeldom deſerts the enterprizing, that the captain might not yet be made acquainted with their abſence, and that they might find favour with the officer to forbear complaint. They accordingly reſigned themſelves to chance, and rowed aboard; but unluckily for them, the report of their crime had out-run their diligence; and the irons in which they were to be confined were in readineſs to be applied as ſoon as they had mounted the ſhip's ſide. They then repented, when it was too late, the exchange they had made, and wiſhed they had been captives to love, rather than priſoners in irons, as the evil day might have been protracted, which now it was no longer in their power to delay; their puniſhment however was milder than they expected, having been ſentenced to receive only ſix laſhes each, when the ſame offence had uſually been puniſhed with twelve.

Peace being now reſtored, plenty ſucceeded, and the ſhip's company were more liberally ſupplied with freſh proviſions, and at a cheaper rate than they had been at any time ſince their arrival in Matavey-bay.

The chiefs came now more frequently and familiarly on board than at firſt; and the gentlemen, particularly Mr. Foſter, was more aſſiduouſly employed on ſhore than had been hitherto remarked: pains were taken too to [191] keep the chiefs in good humour, by varying the diverſions that were intended to amuſe them, and fire-works were ſometimes played off from the maſt head to increaſe their aſtoniſhment, and ſometimes from the tents to excite their admiration; the great guns, ſhotted with round and grape, were fired off to ſhew their effects; and ſometimes the marines were drawn up in order of battle to diſplay their evolutions.

In this manner mutual reſpect and mutual deſires to pleaſe were preſerved during the remainder of the ſhip's ſtay: The little interruptions that ſometimes happened between the common people and the ſailors, were here as in all other places, generally made up among themſelves; or, if complaint was made to the officer or principal chief, juſtice was impartially dealt to both parties.

On the 12th of May, preparations were made for leaving their ſtation; but it was not imagined that the captain intended to ſail for ſome time to come; a few ſmall caſks of water were taken on board in the day, and at night fire-works were renewed, which though none of the beſt, filled the ſpectators with wonder and aſtoniſhment; but juſt as the fire-works had ceaſed, it began to thunder and lighten, which now terrified the poor Indians more than the fire-works had pleaſed them before, imagining [192] their deities were angry, becauſe the ſtrangers had uſurped their power. Such are the effects of ſuperſtition upon unenlightened minds.

On the 13th the natives perceived that the ſtrangers were making preparations to depart; they therefore flocked to the ſhip's ſide with every kind of thing they thought of value, in order to purchaſe nails, knives, adzes, hatchets, ſciſſars, or iron of any ſort manufactured or not. Hogs were now ſo plenty they might be purchaſed as formerly, for an adze or an hatchet, of which the armourers being apprized of their value had made many for trade.

On the 14th the captain, with his officers and attendants went on ſhore to take leave of the great men of the iſland, who had invited them to ſee a play at the palace; theſe plays differ in nothing from thoſe deſcribed in vol. III. of the Voyages round the World, except in their ſimplicity, thoſe of Huaheiney being more artificial and complex. They ſeem to conſiſt, like the Venetian comedies, of nothing but attitude and grimace, and have ſomething reſembling the tricks of harlequin, in which one is always in purſuit, while the other is buſied in contriving to elude his ſearch.

About two in the afternoon the gentlemen returned, and with them Prince Ottoo, and [193] his father, with a multitude of attendants, who brought their boats loaded with hogs, ſome turtle, and a dolphin; delicacies which it was thought the iſland did not produce. About three the captain ſhewed a diſpoſition to depart in earneſt, and this being made public, the girls came crouding about the ſhip, crying and lamenting as if parting from their neareſt and deareſt relations. It is not to be conceived what an exceſs of grief they expreſſed on this occaſion, and ſome of the common men appeared themſelves not to be wholly unaffected when they parted with their miſtreſſes. We have elſewhere obſerved that theſe people have tears at will, whenever they are diſpoſed to counterfeit ſorrow; but there is very little reaſon to imagine that thoſe tears flow from the heart; for the men cry here as frequently as the women.

At parting with the captain, the nobles appeared to be very much affected, and as they juſt then communicated to him the reaſon of their muſtering in the manner already deſcribed, and that in five days they ſhould go to war with the people of Maurua, or York-Iſland, he gave them an Engliſh pendant, which he taught them how to diſplay on the day of battle, and endeavoured to inſpire them with an enthuſiaſtic notion, that while they preſerved that ſtandard, they never ſhould be overcome. [194] And as theſe people look upon the Europeans poſſeſſed of gifts ſuperior to themſelves, it is not to be queſtioned that the ſight of the ſtandard will add to their courage, and that the perſuaſion of there being virtue in it to enſure victory, will redouble their ardour to obtain it.

Being now about to take our final leave of this celebrated iſland, we ſhall endeavour to give the reader a more diſtinct view of its ſituation, general figure, and extent, than has hitherto appeared; and to bring together in their order many things which mark the character of the inhabitants, and which are only to be met with in detached parts, without order and without reference. To do this it ſeems neceſſary to reduce the matter of which we intend to treat into diſtinct heads, which, for the ſake of brevity, we ſhall forbear to enumerate, but ſhall range them in their proper order. And,

1. Of the ſituation of the iſland, which is perhaps the happieſt in the world, being expoſed to none of thoſe viciſſitudes of heat and cold which are obſerved to have ſo ſenſible an effect on the health and ſpirits of thoſe who live in the remoter regions. Its exact poſition is from latitude 17 deg. 28 min. to lat. 17 deg. 53 min. S. and from long. 149 deg. 10 min. to long. 149 deg. 40 min. W. It lies nearly N. W. and S. E. and is divided into two diſtinct principalities [195] by an iſthmus, or neck of land not three miles over. The north-weſterly diviſion is however much larger, more fertile, but by no means ſo well cultivated as the ſouth-eaſterly diviſion, which ſhews that even the defects of nature have their uſe in prompting men to induſtry and art to ſupply their wants.

2. The figure of the largeſt peninſula, as it may be called, is nearly circular, being from North to South about 20 miles, and from Eaſt to Weſt nearly the ſame. The whole is ſurrounded with a reef of rocks. The leſſer peninſula is rather of an oval form, and from the neck of land on the North Weſt ſide to the little iſle of Otooareitte on the South Eaſt is about 12 miles; but from the mouth of the river Omatea on the South, to that of Owahe on the North not more than eight. The circumference of the largeſt peninſula is about 60 miles, the circumference of the ſmalleſt about 24; but in ſailing round both, the line will be extended to 90 nearly.

3. For a particular account of the produce of the iſland, we are indebted no doubt to the indefatigable induſtry of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, from whoſe materials the following catalogue is collected; namely, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas of thirteen ſorts; plantains; a fruit not unlike an apple, which when ripe is very pleaſant; ſweet potatoes, yams, [196] cocoas; a kind of arum; a fruit called by the natives jambu, very delicious; ſugar-cane; a root of the ſaloop kind called pea; a plant called ethee; a fruit not unlike a kidney-bean called by the natives ahee, and when roaſted taſtes like cheſnuts; a tree called wharra, which produces a fruit not unlike a pineapple; a ſhrub called nono; the morinda, which alſo produces fruit; a ſpecies of fern; and a plant called eve, of which the roots only are eaten; all theſe which ſerve the inhabitants for food the earth produces ſpontaneouſly; and there are beſides a great variety of trees, ſhrubs, and plants, which ſerve for the various purpoſes of building houſes, veſſels for navigation, making tools, utenſils of various kinds; manufactures, dyes, &c. which it would only tire the reader to recount.

4. The four-footed animals are but few which the iſland produces, none having been ſeen on the firſt landing of the Europeans but hogs, dogs, and rats; of the laſt the inhabitants are very fond. Poultry did not abound, nor is their poultry by any means ſo well flavoured as thoſe of Europe. Their wild fowl are ducks only; and the birds that haunt the woods are chiefly pidgeons and paraquets; but with fiſh the coaſt abounds, of which the varieties are endleſs.

[197]5. The general appearance of the iſland is very inviting; it is ſkirted with a moſt beautiful plain, and it is watered with a multitude of ſmall rivulets, which in that climate is a bleſſing denied to many otherwiſe enchanting iſles. As the eye is extended from the ſhore the proſpect riſes into hills and dales, foreſts and mountains, enriched with houſes and plantations, and ornamented with the richeſt clothing of nature, a perpetual verdure. Nothing can exceed the view of their houſes, ſtanding upon ſmall pillars among groves of beautiful trees unencumbered with any kind of underwood, and undeformed with brakes or buſhes to intercept the eye; it is indeed a paradiſe where the curſe pronounced in Eden has not yet taken place. No man here is under the neceſſity of getting his bread by the ſweet of his brow.

6. Its inhabitants, particularly the Chiefs, are rather in ſize above the ſtandard of the largeſt Europeans. Their food, which is of the ſimpleſt kind, is not ſuch as to promote gluttony; nor their drink, which is chiefly water, calculated to provoke intemperance. Their daily intercourſe with the ocean accuſtoms them from their youth to exerciſe; and the buſineſs of fiſhing, which in northern countries is the moſt laborious of all employments, [198] is by them practiſed for amuſement. Thoſe who have repreſented them as indolent, becauſe nature has ſo bountifully provided for them as to leave them little to do, have yet miſtaken their character. Their Chiefs are their principal artiſts; and their houſes, public edifices, canals and manufactures, their utenſils, inſtruments of war, working tools, their boats, and fiſhing-tackle, are proofs of their induſtry, which cannot be controverted. Employments of this kind all tending to promote exerciſe, and to baniſh ſloth, conduce to health; and no perſon was ever known to languiſh with any incurable diſeaſe among them, though it does not appear that the medical arts has yet made any conſiderable progreſs.—Much has been ſaid of the gracefulneſs of their perſons; but if we may judge of the reſt by Autorou and Omia, who have been imported into Europe, they have very little to boaſt of that perfection. Their Chiefs have undoubtedly a comparative dignity; but that compariſon is to be confined at home between prince and peaſant, and not extended to European countries, where grace and dignity are leading characters. Their women differ from each other in perſonal charms, as in all other countries; but in ſtature, thoſe of ſuperior rank take eſpecial care to preſerve the family diſtinction. It is not uncommon for ladies of the firſt rank to [199] ſingle out a handſome well proportioned youth to prevent degeneracy, when the ſtature of the family is in danger of being reduced; but they are otherwiſe ſcrupulous in nothing ſo much as in mixing with the canaille, and there is hardly an inſtance of their cohabiting indiſcriminately with the lower claſs of people. There is perhaps no nation where the pride of anceſtry is carried to a greater height, and yet they have no means of recording their pedigree but by oral tradition, nor any rule for continuing the line but what nature has impreſſed upon the mother. As they have no ſchools, nothing is to be acquired by education; they are wholly governed by example; the pattern ſet by the father is followed by the ſon, and what the mother does, that the daughter learns; but this is not to be underſtood to perpetuate huſbandry and arts as in China, in particular families; for in Ottaheite huſbandry and arts are not impoſed as taſks, but are rather amuſements to paſs away time. None are compelled to work, yet all are employed; their ſeveral ſtations chance ſeems to have allotted; and here there is no murmuring againſt providence for not being more bountiful. One precaution obſerved among the great in order to give vigour to their Chiefs muſt not be omitted, and that is, they never ſuffer an intercourſe between the ſexes till both parties arrive at full [200] maturity. The very reverſe of this is practiſed by the multitude, who are in general of mean ſtature, and as much below the common ſtandard as their Chiefs exceed it. They are almoſt all tattowed, women as well as men; in this too there ſeems to be ſomething myſtical; the prieſt performs the office, and the poor children are encouraged by example to endure the pain, and ſurely nothing can be more acute. To have a thouſand punctures all at once, with the blood ſtarting at every puncture, is more, one would think, than a child could bear, yet they ſuffer it with a fortitude of which in Europe there is no example. Their hair is almoſt univerſally black, and the men wear it long, waving in ringlets down their ſhoulders; the women cut it ſhort round their ears; both ſexes ſuffer none to grow under their arms, and are very delicate in keeping every part about them ſweet and clean; for this purpoſe they frequently bathe, ſeldom ſuffering a day to paſs without going into the water more than once. Indeed they anoint their heads with an oil expreſſed from the cocoa-nut, which ſometimes proving rancid, emits a diſagreeable ſavour that cuſtom only has familiarized. They are otherwiſe in their perſons without a taint. A memorable expreſſion of Mr. Banks, That if our ſailors quarrelled [201] with theſe people, they would not agree with angels, ſufficiently denotes the goodneſs of their diſpoſition.

7. Their cuſtoms in eating, are very ſingular, and they certainly entertain ſome ſuperſtitious notions not eaſily diſcoverable by ſtrangers. The women are not permitted to eat with the men; not, as it ſhould ſeem, to mark their inferiority, but in conformity to a cuſtom which habit has eſtabliſhed into a law; nor is it uſual for any of them to eat in company, except upon certain days of feſtivity, when great numbers of them aſſemble together. A meſſenger from Captain Wallis, found Oberea, the ſuppoſed Queen of the iſland, entertaining a company, which he ſuppoſed could not be leſs than a thouſand; the meſſes were all brought to her by the ſervants that prepared them, the meat being put into the ſhells of cocoa-nuts, and the ſhells into wooden trays, and ſhe diſtributed them with her own hands to the gueſts, who were ſeated in rows round the palace. This done, ſhe ſat down herſelf upon a ſeat ſomewhat elevated above the reſt, and two women placing themſelves, one on each ſide of her, fed her like a child; when ſhe ſaw the meſſenger ſhe ordered a meſs for him.

They have two ways of dreſſing their animal food, broiling and baking; the firſt is performed over hot ſtones, without any other [202] contrivance than placing the meat upon the clean ſtones, and when broiled enough on one ſide, they turn it, and broil the other; but their manner of baking is ſomewhat ſingular: they firſt dig a hole in the ground, in depth and dimenſions proportioned to the thing they have to dreſs; they then place a layer of wood at bottom, and over that a layer of ſtones; and ſo alternately a layer of wood, and a layer of ſtones, till the hole is full: the fire is then kindled, and the ſtones made hot; this done, they take out the fire, and placing the ſtones that are leaſt heated, one beſide the other, at the bottom of the hole, they cover them with freſh leaves from the tree, and on theſe they put the meat they have to bake, properly cleaned and ſeaſoned, and then, after laying another layer of green leaves, they fill up the hole with the remaining hot ſtones, and then cloſe the whole with the mould that was firſt dug out of the pit. In this ſituation the meat is ſuffered to remain for three or four hours; and when taken out is then ſo ſavoury, as not to be exceeded by the beſt European cookery; almoſt all the fleſh and fiſh eaten by the chiefs in the iſland is dreſſed in one or the other of the above two ways; the latter is moſt in uſe among the gentry; the former among the commonalty, who ſometimes, indeed, eat their fiſh without dreſſing.

[203]Tables they have none, and thoſe of the higheſt quality dine on the ground under the ſhade of a ſpreading tree; freſh green leaves ſerve them for a cloth, and a baſket which is ſet down by them holds their proviſion; two cocoa nuts, one filled with ſalt-water, the other with freſh, compleat the whole preparation for a meal; and when theſe are brought, and the leaves ſet in order, they begin by firſt waſhing their hands and mouth; that done, they proceed to examine the contents of the baſket: Whatever is brought is ready dreſſed, and neatly wrapped up in clean leaves; if fiſh, they break the fiſh with their hands into the ſalt water, and with the tips of the fingers and thumb take it to their mouths with as much of the ſalt water as adheres to the fiſh; if fleſh, they cut it, or rather ſever it with a wooden knife, and dip it in the ſalt water as they do the fiſh; bread-fruit ſerves them inſtead of bread; and thus they proceed till the animal food, or as much as they like of it, is eaten. They then waſh as before, and begin their vegetables, which generally conſiſt of a preparation of bread-fruit, with a quantity of mabie, (a ſort of ſour-leven) plantains, bananas, cocoa-nuts and apples. When all is over they waſh their hands and mouth a third time, and then, if nothing calls them abroad, they uſually lay themſelves down to ſleep.

[204]It was long before any of them could be perſuaded to eat with the Europeans, and they certainly, like the Jews, have ſome ſuperſtitious ceremonies to be obſerved in the preparation of the food they eat, which, if omitted, renders it unclean, or they would not have continued ſcrupulous ſo long. Even the food of their women is differently prepared from that of the men; and if touched by unhallowed hands, is accounted unclean, and conſequently unfit for uſe. Like the Jews, they were not averſe to the ſtrangers eating with them, though it was with the utmoſt reluctance that they eat with the ſtrangers. Some of the gentlemen, when invited to their houſes, eat out of the ſame baſket, and drank out of the ſame cup with their hoſts; but it was obſerved that the elder women were always offended with this liberty; and if they happened to touch thoſe antient matrons victuals, or even the baſket that held it, they never failed to expreſs their diſlike, and to throw it away; nor would the women of faſhion ever be perſuaded to eat with the gentlemen, when dining in company: but what ſeems moſt ſtrange, and hardly to be accounted for, they would go, five or ſix in company, into the ſervants apartments, and eat heartily of whatever they could find; nor did they ſeem in the leaſt diſconcerted, if they were diſcovered in doing it; yet it [205] was not eaſy to perſuade any of them when alone, in private with a gentleman, to eat with him, nor would they ever do it but under the moſt ſolemn promiſes of ſecrecy. When the chiefs firſt viſited Mr. Banks and his aſſociates at the tents, each brought his baſket with him, and when the gentlemen ſat down to dinner, they withdrew, ſat themſelves down upon the ground at two or three yards diſtance from each other, and turning their faces different ways, took each man his baſket, and dined without ſpeaking a word; and they could not help expreſſing their diſlike, and even diſguſt, at the gentlemen dining in company. It was with no leſs difficulty that any of them were prevailed upon to drink with the gentlemen; but ſome of them having at length been over-perſuaded, and having been made very drunk, were the next day ſo very ſick, that they never afterwards would touch any of the liquors that were offered them.

8. Their amuſements are various, ſuch as muſic, dancing, wreſtling, ſhooting with the bow, darting their lances, ſwimming, rowing, and ſlinging of ſtones. Their muſic is indeed very imperfect, conſiſting only of a flute and a drum, yet, with theſe, companies go about the country and frequent their feſtivals, being in equal eſtimation with them as morris-dancers were formerly with us, and the diverſion they [206] make is not unſimilar. In ſhooting the longbow, or in throwing the lance, they by no means excel; neither are they very dexterous at wreſtling; but at throwing ſtones, and ſwimming, they are perhaps equal to any people upon earth.

Among their other diverſions, they have their heivas, very nearly correſponding with our ancient wakes. The young people meet together to dance and to make merry; and at theſe meetings their minſtrels and players conſtantly attend, as formerly perſons of the ſame character were wont to do all over England, and in ſome counties the veſtiges of that ancient cuſtom remain to this day. At theſe heivas, however, their girls in their dances have no regard to decency; and though the ſame end was no doubt in view in the inſtitution of the wake and the heiva, yet what in England was concerted with the greateſt ſecrecy, is in Ottaheite publickly avowed and practiſed.

It ſhould ſeem that though the inſtrumental muſic of the Ottaheiteans is much confined, the vocal muſic is by no means contemptible; yet in the ſweetneſs of the voice conſiſts all the melody, for they have no rules to regulate the tones. Their ſongs are like the ſongs of children, accompanied with words of their own compoſing, which they can-vary into long [207] and ſhort verſes, ſprightly or ſolemn as occaſion preſents; and as the language itſelf is muſical, the ſtranger is no leſs delighted with the arranteſt nonſenſe, than he would be with the moſt ſublime compoſition.

The heivas are indiſcriminately frequented by all ranks of people among the Ottaheiteans; but there is ſtill a more exceptionable meeting held by ſome of the principal people, to which thoſe only are admitted who are properly initiated. Theſe people form a diſtinct ſociety, in which every woman is common to every man; and at their meetings, which are diſtinguiſhed by the name of Arreoy, the ſports they practiſe are beyond imagination wanton: "There is (ſays the writer of the Endeavour's Voyage) ‘"a ſcale of ſenſuality which theſe people have aſcended wholly unknown to every other nation whoſe manners have been recorded, from the beginning of the world to the preſent hour, and which no imagination could conceive;"’ and yet, notwithſtanding this very ſevere cenſure and poſitive aſſertion, we may trace ſomething very like it in the hiſtory of the ancient inhabitants of our own iſland. The following are the words of Sir William Temple, a writer of no ſmall authority, who in reciting the cuſtom makes nearly the ſame obſervation with the learned voyage writer.

[208] ‘"One cuſtom there was (ſays Sir William) among the ancient Britons, which ſeems peculiar to themſelves, and not found in the ſtories of any other nations either civil or barbarous, which was a ſociety of wives among certain numbers; and by common conſent every man married a ſingle woman, who was always after and alone eſteemed his wife; but it was uſual for five or ſix, ten or twelve, or more, either brothers or friends, as they could agree, to have all their wives in common. Encounters happened among them, as they were invited by deſire, or favoured by opportunity. Every woman's children were attributed to him that had married her; but all had a ſhare in the care and defence of the while ſociety, ſince no man knew which were his own. Though this cuſtom be alledged as a teſtimony how ſavage or barbarous a people the Britons were, yet (adds Sir William) I know not why it ſhould appear more extravagant than the community of women in ſome other countries, the deflowering of virgins by the prieſts on the firſt night of marriage, the unlimited number of wives and concubines, not to mention the marriage of ſiſters among the ancient Egyptians and Athenians, and the borrowing and lending of wives among the Romans."’ Thus it appears that ſomething [209] very like this ladder of ſenſuality had been aſcended by our anceſtors, probably as early, if not before, the ſociety we are ſpeaking of had exiſtence; and I believe if we were to tranſmit an impartial record of the manners of the preſent times, ſomething ſtill more ſimilar to all the aggravated circumſtances of this barbarous cuſtom in Ottaheite (where when a woman happens to prove with child, the writer ſays, the poor infant is ſmothered the moment it is born, that it may be no incumbrance to the father, nor interrupt the mother in the pleaſures of her diabolical proſtitution, might be traced in the purlieus of Covent-Garden, and the alleys in and about Drury-Lane. Perhaps it would be no exaggeration if we were to add, that in the city of London there are as many men as the whole iſland of Ottaheite contains, who devote themſelves entirely to the pleaſures of variety, and who attach themſelves to no one woman, but enjoy indiſcriminately all they may; and that there are an equal number of women to be met with, who are at all times ready to gratify their deſires; nor have theſe men or theſe women any more regard for their poor infants, than the members of that diabolical ſociety, againſt which the piety of the writer prompted him to exclaim. We ſaid aggravated circumſtances, becauſe as the reaſons aſſigned by the writer for ſmothering the poor infants are to [210] the laſt degree futile, it may be preſumed that the children of ſuch general commerce may, like the children of our anceſtors, be conſidered as the children of the ſociety, ſince ſmothering the child as ſoon as born, would not ſhorten, the interruptions neceſſarily impeding the pleaſures of the mother, nor encumber a father that could not be known.

Among people ſo immerſed in ſenſuality one would think dreſs would be no ornament, but the contrary; yet among the Ottaheitean ladies dreſs ſeems to be as much ſtudied as among the ladies of more civilized nations. It is not a little remarkable however, that neither the feet or legs of the firſt ladies of quality in Ottaheite have any covering or other defence from the ground on which they tread, or from the ſcorching heat of the ſun, which at ſome ſeaſons is very intenſe. But they are very nice in ornamenting their heads, and in ſhading their faces. Their chief head-dreſs, in which they pride themſelves the moſt, is threads of human hair ſo delicately plaited, that it is not unuſual for them to have garlands of this manufacture would round their heads, that were they to be unfolded, would encircle St. Paul's; the plaits whereof being beſet with flowers have a very pretty effect, and are exceedingly becoming to young faces. In their ears they wear ornaments, which before [211] the European beads ſupplanted all others, conſiſted of any thing red, ſhining, or ſhewy. The other part of their dreſs has nothing particular, it is very ſimple, and needs neither taylor nor mantua-maker to make it up. A piece of cloth about a yard and a half wide, and between three and four yards long, is placed upon a table, and a hole cut in the middle juſt big enough to let the head paſs eaſily through, and this flows round them, and covers them to a little below the waiſt; from thence a large quantity of the ſame cloth is gathered in folds, and tied round them as we tie a cravat round the neck, which being drawn into a large knot is again ſpread out, and flows artleſsly down before nearly as low as the knees, while the greateſt quantity of cloth falls down behind, in appearance not unlike the dreſs of the Roman orators. This dreſs is far from being ungraceful, and there is but little difference between that of the ſexes, except that the lower garments of the men are nearly of an equal length before and behind. Some of the Chiefs had dreſſes made after the Engliſh faſhion, of which they were very proud. The cloth they wear is of very different textures; that which is worn in dry weather is no other than paper made of the rind of trees, of which a more particular deſcription under the head of manufactures will be given; but that which they [212] put on when it rains is more ſubſtantial, and is properly a kind of matting incomparably platted. The ſhape of their clothing, like that of our own, is nearly the ſame from the prince to the peaſant; the only diſtinctions are the quantity worn, and the colouring; the lower claſs of people wearing only one ſingle garment; the better ſort as many as were they made of broad-cloth would burden them to carry. One thing, however, appears ſingular; when they ſalute one another, they conſtantly unbare themſelves from the waiſt upwards, throwing off their tunics, as we may call them, with the ſame eaſe and for the ſame purpoſe as we pull off our hats. This ſalutation is common to the women as well as the men, and is the univerſal practice.

9. Their arts may be reduced to five, namely, architecture, carving, ſhip-building, navigation, and painting; yet, for any thing that appears to the contrary, they are all directed by the ſame claſs of men, who, like the druids of old, are prieſts, philoſophers, and artiſts. Of their architecture, however, there is but one remarkable ſpecimen exiſting in the greater-iſland; and not many in the leſſer. This building is the Moral, or ſepulchral monument of Oborea, of whom mention has already been made in the courſe of this narrative. It is indeed prodigious; it is a pile of ſtone 267 feet [213] long and 87 wide at the baſe, raiſed by flights of ſteps to the height of 44 feet; theſe ſteps are each four feet high, narrowing gradually, till they end in a ſmall entablature, on which near the middle ſtands the figure of a bird carved in wood, and at a proper diſtance the broken fragments of a fiſh cut in ſtone. This pile makes a conſiderable part of one ſide of a ſquare court, whoſe area is 360 feet by 354, incloſed within a wall of ſtone, and paved with the ſame meterials through its whole extent. As this ſquare is ſurrounded with trees, and has many growing within it of a particular kind, it forms at a diſtance the moſt delightful grove that imagination can paint. At what time it was erected could not be learnt, for they have no records of paſt tranſactions; but being conſtructed of coral ſtones, many of them of large dimenſions, neatly ſquared and poliſhed, and ſo nicely joined as hardly to diſcover a ſeam, it muſt fill the mind of a nice obſerver with rapture to examine all its parts. To think how ſuch a maſs of materials could be brought together in an iſland where no quarries are to be found; how theſe materials could be cut with ſuch exactneſs, as to form a pile impenetrable by rain, without cement, and that with tools leſs hard than the material to which they were applied; and laſtly, how theſe enormous blocks of ſtone could afterwards be [214] raiſed to the height of 44 feet to cloſe and cover in the building, muſt ſurely excite the wonder of every ordinary beholder; but to mark the ſymmetry of the whole, ſo juſtly proportioned in every part as to diſplay the moſt conſummate judgment, without aſſiſtance from the rules of art, muſt afford a feaſt to an enlightened mind, of which an ordinary ſeaman can have no reliſh. This noble ſtructure, though ſingle, is ſuch a proof of genius as will remain the admiration of the world, as long perhaps as the iſland itſelf endures; for being ſolid, without a cavity, no time that will not equally affect the iſland will ever deſtroy it.

Of their carving in ſtone there are but few ſpecimens to be produced, and indeed when their tools they have to work with are conſidered, it is more to be admired that there are any, than that there are ſo few; but there is reaſon to hope that now they are made acquainted with the uſe of iron, and have conſiderable quantities of that metal amongſt them, that their improvements will ſpeedily be proportioned to their advantages. Of their carving in wood, there is hardly a tool or ordinary utenſil of any kind that does not diſcover evident proofs of their expertneſs in that art. Their veſſels for navigation are all adorned with it; and in ſome of their performances of that kind there is an excellence diſcernible, that with ſuch [215] tools as they have to work with no European carver could exceed.

With regard to their ſhip-building little can be ſaid, but that they are upon a footing with their neighbours. Their veſſels are well enough fitted to the ſeas they have to navigate; and there is hardly an inſtance of any of them being caſt away: they are moſt of them elevated at the head and ſtern, for the purpoſe of defending the rowers from the ſurf, which on theſe iſlands breaks upon the ſhore with uncommon violence; thoſe of Otaheite are in form not unlike the punt-boats, with flat bottoms, uſed by our fiſhermen up the river Thames, or rather like thoſe uſed for the ſame purpoſe on the Severn: they are no where wider than three feet, though ſome of them are more than 60 feet long; nor are they an inch deeper in the body, though at the head and ſtern, they riſe with a curvature more than 12 feet. As it would be impoſſible to navigate theſe veſſels, ſo long and ſo narrow, without ſome contrivance to keep them upright, they place two of them as near as can be of the ſame dimenſions, along ſide of each other, at three, four, or five feet diſtance, and with ſtrong ſpars join them together; then raiſing a maſt in each, they hoiſt a ſquare ſail, the yards of which are faſtened above and below to the correſponding maſts, and thus equipt, with a cabin erected between [216] them to ſtow their proviſions, they will keep the ſea for ſeveral days. Their ordinary fiſhing canoes are in nothing different from the boats that boys make, except in their ſize, and that a flat board projects a foot or two before, narrowing to a point, and the ſame again in the ſtern. In rigging their double canoes, they have a rule for proportioning the height of the maſts to the length of the keel, and of fitting the ſail to the height of the maſt: they likewiſe have a contrivance of ſailing in ſingle canoes, by means of outriggers, which project on the lee-ſide of the veſſel, and prevents their over-ſetting; to this outrigger one corner of the ſail is made faſt, which ſail being wide at bottom, and rounding to a point a-top, very much reſembles what the boatmen call a ſhoulder of mutton ſail, and which is not unfrequently ſeen on the river Thames. To thoſe who have been told that the maſon can joint ſtone with ſo much nicety as to be impervious to water, it will not ſeem ſtrange that their carpenters can do the ſame with reſpect to timber, yet it certainly muſt require much art and incredible labour, firſt to fell the tree, then to cleave it out into planks, then to hollow it out to the intended ſhape; next to ſmooth and poliſh it, after that to joint it, and laſt of all to put it together, and ſaw it, for they were wholly ignorant of the art of bolting it with wooden bolts, or jointing [217] it together by means of mortices, till the Europeans viſited them. It is no wonder therefore that they dreaded nothing ſo much as the deſtruction of their boats when threatened by the Engliſh for any offence, nor that they are more careful in covering their boat-houſes from the ſun and rain, than they are in ſecuring their dwellings from the ſame injury.

As their whole art of navigation depends upon their minutely obſerving the motions of the heavenly bodies, it is aſtoniſhing with what exactneſs their navigators can deſcribe the motions and changes of thoſe luminaries. There was not a ſtar in their hemiſphere fixt or erratic but Toobia could give a name to, tell when and where it would appear and diſappear; and what was ſtill more wonderful, could foretell from the aſpect of the heavens the changes of the wind, and the alterations of the weather, ſeveral days before they happened. By this intelligence he had been enabled to viſit moſt of the iſlands for many degrees round that of which he was a native. By the ſun they ſteer in the day, and by the ſtars they ſteer in the night; and by their ſkill in preſaging the weather, they can without danger lengthen or ſhorten their voyage as appearances are for or againſt them. As they have no medium wherewith to trade, their voyages ſeem wholly calculated for diſcovery, or to increaſe their [218] acquaintance one nation with another. Riches they do not ſeem ſollicitous to acquire, as riches confer no diſtinction on the owner; and yet, without ſuch a motive, it is not eaſy to conceive what prompts one to take away what another has in poſſeſſion. They certainly interchange their commodities among themſelves as well as with ſtrangers: the fiſherman barters his fiſh for the planter's bread-fruit, and ſo of the reſt; yet every man ſeems to be a fiſherman, and every man a planter: this ſhews that we are ſtill ſtrangers to their civil oeconomy. It had been good policy to have ſuffered two or three young fellows who were deſirous of ſtaying behind, to have ſettled among them, eſpecially as there was reaſon to believe that the iſland would again be viſited, if for no other reaſon but to reſtore to them the native who had voluntarily undertaken a voyage to Europe; but againſt this it ſeems the officers very carefully guarded.

Their painting appears to be in a rude ſtate, and chiefly confined to the figures repreſented on their bodies, and the ornaments on their veſſels of navigation. The figures repreſented on their bodies are generally thoſe of birds and fiſhes, ſometimes after nature, and ſometimes the creatures of the artiſt's fancy; but whatever is repreſented, the outline is traced with aſtoniſhing exactneſs. This art is ſolely confined [219] to the prieſthood, and is performed like baptiſm as a rite, without which, after a certain age, none are accounted worthy of ſociety. From twelve to fourteen is the period allotted for the performance of this rite, for before that age the children are thought unable to endure the ſmart.

The other ſort of painting in uſe among theſe iſlanders may rather be called daubing, conſiſting only in colouring the rude carvings in their pleaſure-boats, &c. ſometimes with one colour, and ſometimes with another, but moſt commonly with red.

Such is the preſent ſtate of the arts in this celebrated iſland, which, had Toobia lived to have come to England, and to have returned again to his own country, would no doubt have received a rapid improvement, for he was a man of real genius, a prieſt of the firſt order, and an excellent artiſt: he was, however, by no means beloved by the Endeavour's crew, being looked upon as proud and auſtere, extorting homage, which the ſailors who thought themſelves degraded by bending to an Indian, were very unwilling to pay, and preferring complaints againſt them on the moſt trivial occaſions. On the contrary, his boy Tayota was the darling of the ſhip's company from the higheſt to the loweſt, being of a mild and docile diſpoſition, ready to do any [220] kind office for the meaneſt in the ſhip, and never complaining, but always pleaſed. His death at Batavia was much lamented.

10. Their manufactures are of various kinds; but that of cloth is in the higheſt eſtimation amongſt them: why, indeed, it ſhould be called cloth no other reaſon can be aſſigned but that it is worn by the natives as clothing; for, as a manufacture, it has no one proceſs ſimilar to that which we diſtinguiſh by the name of cloth. The material of which it is made is neither ſpun nor woven in a loom, but in every reſpect is prepared after the firſt ſimple manner of making paper before mills were applied to facilitate the labour. The bark is firſt ſtript from the tree and laid in the water, as we do flax to ſoak; it is then diveſted of the rind by ſcraping, till only the fibres of the inſide remain. When it is properly cleanſed it is then placed upon leaves, one layer by the ſide of another, till it is of ſufficient breadth; and in the ſame manner it is extended to what length the manufacturer chuſes, or the ground will admit: to ſtrengthen it, and increaſe its breadth, one layer is laid over another tll it is of the ſubſtance required. [...] is left to drain, and when it is juſt dry enough to be raiſed from the ground, it is then placed upon a kind of ſtage made of ſmooth boards, and beat with a ſquare bearer [221] about a foot long, and two or three inches broad. On each of the four ſides of this beater parallel lines are cut lengthwiſe; theſe lines differ in fineneſs, in a proportion from a ſmall twine to a ſilken thread. They firſt begin with the coarſeſt ſide of the beater, and finiſh with the fineſt. By the continued application of this beater, in which two people are generally employed, who ſtand oppoſite to each other on each ſide the ſtage, and regulate their ſtrokes like ſmiths on an anvil, the cloth, if cloth it muſt be called, in its rough ſtate thins apace, and as it thins it increaſes in breadth. When it has undergone this proceſs, it is then ſpread out to whiten, and when ſufficiently whitened it then becomes the ladies province carefully to look it over, and to remove all blemiſhes. Thus far compleated, it is coloured, generally red or yellow; and when that is done, it is rolled up, and laid by for uſe. By this deſcription the reader will readily comprehend in what manner the fabric may be varied into fine or courſe, according to the materials of which it is made, and the labour beſtowed upon it. In Ottaheite the bark of three different trees is made uſe of in this manufacture; the Chineſe-paper-mulberry, the bread-fruittree, and the wild fig-tree. Of the firſt and ſecond the fineſt ſorts are made; but of the laſt, the moſt durable. The firſt and ſecond [222] imbibe water like paper; but the latter will reſiſt the rain. They have a method of waſhing this cloth after being worn; but when it is waſhed, it is again beaten; by this laſt proceſs it is rendered very ſoft and pliable.

Another conſiderable manufacture is that of matting, made likewiſe of the rinds of plants and ſhrubs, which are manufactured to a degree of fineneſs not to be equalled by any thing of the kind known in Europe. Of this manufacture they make their ſails to their ſhipping, the coverings of their beds, and even their cloathing in rainy weather. They make this matting with aſtoniſhing diſpatch.

Their cordage is another conſiderable article, which is made of the rind of a plant not unlike a wild nettle. In this manufacture they likewiſe excel, but we do not learn that any of it was purchaſed for the ſhip's uſe. Their lines made for fiſhing are much ſuperior to any thing uſed for the ſame purpoſe in Europe, being ſtronger and infinitely more durable. Their fiſhing-nets have the ſame advantages; but the cords made of human hair, which the ladies wind round their heads, and which like netting here, is the chief amuſement of the ladies there, is incomparably beyond any thing that can be conceived in twiſting. Mr. Banks is ſaid to have in his poſſeſſion a ſpecimen of it, near two thouſand yards in length, as fine as [223] the fineſt ſilk-thread, and without a knot; neither have they any engine to aſſiſt them in the performance, but all is done by hand, and with a quickneſs that almoſt exceeds belief.

They have alſo a manufacture of baſket, or wicker-work, of which every native is a proficient; and as they have a kind of emulation in excelling in this manufacture, it is not to be wondered at, that there ſhould be as many different forms, as there are different makers, ſome of them incomparably neat. But among the curioſities of this kind, that which was moſt admired by the Europeans, was the figure of a man upwards of ſeven feet high, repreſented in baſket-work. "This wicker-ſkeleton, (ſays the writer of the Endeavour's Voyage,) ‘"was compleatly covered with feathers, white where the ſkin was to appear, and black in thoſe parts which it is their cuſtom to paint or ſtain, and upon the head, where there was to be a repreſentation of hair: Upon the head alſo were four protuberances, three in front, and one behind, which the natives called tate-ete, or little men."’ This, it ſeems was a repreſentation of one of their deities.

Other manufactures of leſs account are their weapons of war, which ſeem to be the workmanſhip of the owners, their fiſhing-tackle of various ſorts, their working-tools, and their [224] jewelery; in the latter of which they diſplay no great ingenuity.

11. Come we now to their civil government, of which, however, we have no diſtinct idea. By what indeed we can gather from the relations already made public, there ſeems to be a remarkable conformity between their eſtabliſhment, and that of the antient Britons, which conſiſted of ſeveral ſmall nations, under ſo many petty princes or chiefs, who in caſes of common danger united under one head. Theſe chiefs had all of them their reſpective families, who multiplying, became a diſtinct claſs from the common or lower ſort of people, and exerciſed an unlimited authority over them. Of theſe two claſſes, added to that of the prieſthood, the whole body of the people conſiſted, ſo that among them, what one claſs found neceſſary to command, the other was ready to execute. Hence it was that induſtry took place, and arts were invented; and this ſeems to be the preſent ſtate of the iſlanders, of whom we are now ſpeaking. Laws they had none, but ſuch as naturally aroſe from the idea of ſuperiority and ſubmiſſion, ſuch as excite parents to corect the faults of their children; neither have the Ottaheiteans any other at this day. There is no crime among them that ſubjects a man to death, and when life is taken away, it is always in the heat of paſſion [225] or reſentment, and not the effect of formal accuſation and deliberate puniſhment. The contentions that aroſe among the chiefs, like the quarrels of neighbouring ſchools, became the quarrels of the whole community; and theſe quarrels neceſſarily led the parties to have recourſe to arms, and in proportion as the contentions grew more frequent, the weapons that were contrived for defence, grew more deſperate. It was not, however, till after civilization began to take place, that contentions for liberty began to ſpread devaſtation among people of the ſame community. In their primary ſtate of ſubjection, the people never entertained a thought that they were in ſlavery; they obeyed as children do their parents, from a principle originating in nature, which teaches the weak to ſubmit to the ſtrong, and thoſe of mean underſtanding to be governed by thoſe whoſe wiſdom they tacitly acknowledge. This appears to be a juſt repreſentation of the ſtate of civil government in Ottaheite, where none think themſelves ſlaves, yet few are free.

Concerning their religion, the little information we have received is ſo vague and contradictory, that nothing can with certainty be ſaid about it. We are told that they have idols, and yet are no idolaters; that they have places of worſhip, but that they never aſſemble to pay adoration; that they acknowledge deities [226] of ſeveral orders, but that they have no forms of addreſſing them. They have prieſts likewiſe of ſeveral orders, who have different offices aſſigned, but few of thoſe offices are particularized, except that they preſide and pray at funerals, and are the principal attendants at their Morais, or Temples; though it does not appear that any ceremonies of devotion are performed there. The offices that have been obſerved as appertaining to the prieſthood, are three, namely, circumciſing, tattowing, and praying at the funerals of the dead; that of circumciſing is not performed after the manner of the Jews, but after a peculiar manner of their own; and has no doubt the purity of the circumciſed for its object, in bringing every part about them into contact with the water with which they conſtantly waſh three times a day. Tattowing, whatever its object, is never omitted; and praying for the dead is certainly a proof that they believe in the ſouls exiſting in a ſeparate ſtate, after it has taken its ſlight from the body, which, it ſhould ſeem by their placing meat and drink in their burying places, they do not think immediately takes place.

In this cuſtom, however, they are far from being ſingular; in the infancy of almoſt every ſtate ſomething of the like kind may be traced. Among the antient Romans, they placed meat upon the tombs of their deceaſed friends, that [227] the ghoſts might come out and eat, as they fancied they would; and when they intended to expreſs the moſt abject ſtate of human wretchedneſs, they uſed to ſay, ſuch a creature gets his food from the tombs.

The character of the Tahowa of the Ottaheiteans very nearly correſponds with that of Druid, among the Britons. The Tahowa is the chief prieſt, of which, however, there are ſeveral orders, as has already been remarked, whoſe erudition conſiſts in learning the ſeveral traditional memorials of antient times; in being made acquainted with the opinion of their anceſtors, concerning the origin of things; and in the repetition of many myterious ſentences, in a language which the vulgar do not underſtand. This, perhaps, might be thought a fiction founded on the Popiſh cuſtom of praying in an unknown tongue, were it not that the Brahmins in the Eaſt have their myſtic language, as have likewiſe all the followers of the great Zoroaſter. The prieſts are ſuperior too to the reſt of the people in the knowledge of navigation and aſtronomy, and in all the liberal arts, of which theſe people have any idea. Thus far the character of the Tahowa agrees with that of the Druid, in every particular. Sir William Temple, whom we have already quoted, ſays, the Druids were the only perſons of any ſort of learning in theſe nations, [228] which was derived by long tradition among them, and conſiſted in the obſervation of the heavens, knowledge of the ſtars and their courſes, and thereby the preſagers of many events, &c. that they had the care and direction of all religious matters, and that their authority was abſolute. And Rapin adds, that the chief of the Druids was a ſort of pontiff, or high-prieſt, who had authority over all the reſt, and whoſe dignity was elective. It would be no unpleaſing taſk to trace the conformity of the cuſtoms and manners of nations remote from one another in their infant ſtate, were it not foreign to the buſineſs we have in hand, which however furniſhes the materials for ſuch an enquiry, which the writer may one day or other take the pains to arrange.

In the mean time we ſhall take our leave of the Ottaheiteans, by a brief account of their funeral ceremonies, that being the only ſolemnity in which the prieſt and the people jointly aſſiſt. ‘"As ſoon as a native of Ottaheite is known to be dead, the houſe, ſays the writer of the Endeavour's voyage, is filled with relations, who deplore their loſs, ſome by loud lamentations, and ſome by leſs clamorous, but more genuine expreſſions of grief. Thoſe who are in the neareſt degree of kindred, and are really affected by the event, are ſilent; the reſt are one moment uttering paſſionate exclamations [229] in a chorus, and the next laughing and talking, without the leaſt appearance of concern:"’ and here we cannot help remarking, that this deſcription is equally applicable to the wild Iriſh, as to the people for whom it was written, for no deſcription can be nearer the tRuth. ‘"This ſolemnity, the writer adds, is continued only for a day and a night;"’ but among the Iriſh it is continued for ſeveral nights. "On the next morning the body is ſhrouded, and conveyed to the ſea-ſide upon a bier, which the bearers ſupport upon their ſhoulders, attended by the prieſt, who having prayed over the body, repeats his ſentences during the proceſſion. When it arrives at the water's edge it is ſet down upon the beach, the prieſt renews his prayers, and taking up ſome of the water in his hand ſprinkles it towards the body, but not upon it. It is then carried back 40 or 50 yards, and ſoon after brought again to the beach, where the prayers and ſprinkling are repeated. It is thus removed backwards and forwards ſeveral times; and while theſe ceremonies have been performing, a houſe has been built, and a ſmall piece of ground railed round, in the centre of which a ſtage is erected on which they place the bier, and the body is there left to putrify, till the fleſh is waſted from the bones. As ſoon as the body is depoſited the mourning is renewed, [230] the women aſſemble, and are led to the door by the neareſt relation, who ſtrikes a ſhark's tooth ſeveral times into the crown of her head; the blood copiouſly follows, and is carefully received upon pieces of linen, [probably upon pieces of their unſullied white cloth, for linen they had none before the Europeans viſited them] which are thrown under the bier. The reſt of the women follow this example, and the ceremony is repeated at the interval of two or three days, as long as the zeal and ſotrow of the parties hold out. The tears alſo which are ſhed upon theſe occaſions are received upon pieces of cloth, and offered as oblations to the dead; ſome of the younger people cut off their hair, and that is thrown under the bier with the other offerings. "This cuſtom, adds the writer, ‘"is founded on the notion that the ſoul of the deceaſed is hovering about the place where the body is depoſited; that it obſerves the actions of the ſurvivors, and is gratified by ſuch teſtimonies of their affection and grief."’ But whether this is their belief or the writer's is very problematical; neither is it certain that the prieſt is an attendant in the proceſſion of the deceaſed to the water's edge; for in the funerals at which Mr. Banks was a party no mention is made of a prieſt; and Tuberai Tumaide, who was chief mourner, is ſaid to have pronounced the funeral [231] ſervice, whatever that ſervice might be. The natives are all ſaid to fly before theſe proceſſions, and the reaſon aſſigned is, the chief mourner carries in his hand a long flat ſtick, the edge of which is ſet with ſharks teeth, and in a phrenſy, which his grief is ſuppoſed to have inſpired, he runs at all he ſees, and if any of them happen to be overtaken, he ſtrikes them moſt unmercifully with his indented cudgel, which cannot fail to wound them in a dangerous manner. But this reaſon, though a plauſible one, does not ſeem to come up to what is ſaid occaſionally in the courſe of the relation, that while the corpſe is carrying in proceſſion the people every where fly and hide themſelves in the woods, and that none but thoſe immediately concerned in it, if they can avoid it, come in ſight. Were it only for fear of the cudgel that theſe people fled, they needed not run ſo far as the woods, nor to quit their houſes, (as Mr. Banks obſerved they did when the corpſe of an old woman whoſe funeral he attended came by in proceſſion) to hide themſelves in holes; it would have been ſufficient for them to have kept out of the reach of the cudgel; but they muſt be awed by ſome ſecret motive; ſome ſuperſtitious dread of ſome misfortune happening to them if they ſhould meet the corpſe, either in an unlucky place, or in an ominous ſituation; as at this [232] day many people in the northern parts of Britain get out of the way of a corpſe when carrying to the grave for theſe or the like reaſons. Theſe people are certainly not intimidated by the apprehenſion of being beaten; but they have a dread upon them of they know not what; yet it is ſuch a dread as inſenſibly impells them to keep at a diſtance; and if by accident they are ſurpriſed, and meet the corpſe at the corner of a ſtreet, or the rounding of a hill, they never fail to bleſs themſelves, and to turn the way the corpſe is carrying, and walk in the ſame direction for ſeveral paces to avert the bad effects of the unlucky omen, which they always interpret againſt themſelves.

Parkinſon's account of the funeral ceremonies of the iſlanders in the South-Seas is leſs laboured than the writer's we have above quoted, but is more natural; he was indeed an eyewitneſs of what he wrote, and therefore judged from what he ſaw, not from what was reported to him. He tells us, that the prieſt, accompanied with two boys painted black, attend at the Morai, or place where the corpſe is depoſited to receive the hogs, fiſh, and other proviſions, which on theſe occaſions are offered to the Ethooa or deity of the place, and to lay them upon an altar; that this prieſt and his attendants are employed in ſtrewing the body of the [233] defunct with leaves and flowers of bamboo; that for two or three days he occasionally ranges the adjacent fields and woods, from which every one retires on his approach. The relations, in the mean time, build a temporary houſe near the Morai, where they aſſemble, and the females mourn for the deceaſed by ſinging ſongs of grief, howling, and wounding their bodies in different places with ſharks teeth; after which they bathe their wounds in the next river or ſea, and again return to howl and cut themſelves, which they continue for three days. After the body is corrupted, and the bones are become bare, the ſkeleton is depoſited in a ſort of ſtone-pyramid built for that purpoſe. He adds, that theſe Morais are frequented by two birds ſacred to their gods, namely, the gray heron, and a blue and brown king-fiſher; but whether theſe birds, or the prieſt and his attendants eat the offerings that are made to the preſiding deity, or whether they are eaten at all, is not declared. It is agreed, however, that the piety of the natives is in no inſtance ſo ſtrongly expreſſed as in the profuſion of covering they beſtow upon the remains of their deceaſed friends, and in the ornaments with which they decorate their Morais; but theſe Morais are not the receptacles of the ordinary dead, but appropriated ſolely to the uſe of the principal families to which [234] each reſpectively belongs; how it fares with the bodies of the common herd we are not told, whether they are ſuffered to rot upon the ground, or under it, does not attract the notice of the voyager, who is only intent upon what is ſtriking in high life, without regarding the ordinary occurrences that daily paſs among the multitude.

15. It does not appear that they have either phyſicians or ſurgeons, by profeſſion, among them, except the prieſt, whoſe relief conſiſts in prayers and ceremonies, not in drugs or preſcriptions; yet we muſt not conclude from hence that they are deficient in the art of healing. Two or three inſtances occur in the relations of different voyagers, which are ſtriking proofs of their knowledge in what is neceſſary to preſerve life. Toopia was pierced through the body with a lance, headed with the jagged bone of the ſting-ray; the weapon went in at his back and came out juſt under his breaſt, yet he was perfectly cured, and never complained of any inconvenience from the bad effects of his wound. A man whoſe head was almoſt cruſhed, his face beat in, his noſe flatted, and one eye beat out, the hollow of which would almoſt admit one's fiſt; yet this man was cured, and to appearance felt no remaining pain; a third had a ſtone drove through his head with a ſling in the wars, and [235] yet, how improbable ſoever it may ſeem, he, like the others, appeared to enjoy a good ſtate of health. Theſe are inconteſtible proofs of their knowledge of the virtues of balſams, of which we are either not poſſeſt, or are ignorant of their healing qualities.

From this brief account of the iſland and people of Otaheite, many will be ready to envy them their felicity; but it muſt be remembered, as a foil to their happineſs, that they do not always ſleep in ſecurity; they are frequently ſurprized by their more warlike neighbours, and whole diſtricts depopulated; for, if in the invaſions of one another's territories, they happen to prove ſucceſsful, they ſpare neither man, woman, nor child.—But to return:

On the 14th of May we left the ſhip under ſail, and that night ſhe cleared the reef.

On the 15th they had an open ſea and a fine breeze in their favour; but juſt as the ſhip's canvas was ſpreading, one of the officers from the gun-room ports, obſerved a perſon in the water, making from the ſhip towards the land; they immediately hove to, and hoiſted out the large cutter, armed her, and ſent her after the man, who proved to be the gunner's mate, endeavouring to eſcape with a view to be left behind; and pity it was that he happened to be diſcovered, as from him a more copious and accurate account of the religion and civil government [236] of theſe people might have been expected after a few years ſtay among them, than could poſſibly be collected from a few ſhort viſits, by gentlemen who had the language to learn, and whoſe firſt buſineſs was to procure neceſſaries, in order to enable them to purſue more important diſcoveries. But this attempt failing, and the man taken up, he was brought back, and laid in irons to bewail his ill-fortune, having flattered himſelf, as a man of enterprize and courage, with being made king of the country, or at leaſt prime miniſter. No impediment now remaining the ſhip purſued her courſe to the N. W. and N. W. by W. having four of the natives of Ottaheite on board as paſſengers to Huaheiney, to which ſhe was bound, and where ſhe caſt anchor the ſame night. Here the captain was welcomed by king Oree, who came on board before the ſhip was well moored, bringing with him a hog as a preſent.

On the 16th abundance of canoes came along ſide the ſhip to trade, bringing hogs, fowls, and fruit of various ſorts, to barter for ſuch things as were ſhewn them, of which each choſe what he thought was moſt valuable, according to the price that was ſet upon it. But while the greateſt part of the people were engaged in traffic, ſome were employed in an attempt to carry off one of the ſhip's buoys; [237] theſe, however, were diſcovered before they had accompliſhed their deſign, were fired upon, and for ſafety obliged to jump into the ſea, leaving their canoe behind them, which by way of puniſhment, was taken on board, and cut up for the uſe of the cooks. This day the captain and gentlemen went on ſhore to pay their compliments to the king and his nobles, and Mr. Foſter went up the country to examine its productions. This he continued as a daily taſk during the ſhip's continuance in this harbour. While he was thus employed, ſome of the other gentlemen and officers went up into the woods a-ſhooting, and the captain employed himſelf in laying in proviſions and increaſing the ſhip's ſtores.

On the 16th the number of inhabitants that came about the ſhip was ſo great, that it was found neceſſary to place ſentinels in the gangways, to prevent the men from coming on board, but no oppoſition was made to the women, ſo that the ſhip was crouded with them.

17. King Oree came and dined on board, and the captain ordered the guns to be ſhotted, and fired by way of ſalute at his entrance and departure; he had given the captain to understand that he expected the ſame honours to be paid to him, as had been ſhewn to the chiefs of Ottaheite.

[238]18. A report was current, that the natives intended to riſe and attack the ſhip. The captain, though he did not think them ſerious in ſuch an attempt, yet was unwilling totally to diſregard the intimation; he therefore ordered 20 ſtand of arms to be in readineſs in caſe any commotion ſhould be obſerved among them.

19. The rumour increaſed, but no preparations could be obſerved to countenance ſuch a report; the king continued his viſits as uſual, and never came empty handed.

20. The firſt and ſecond lieutenants, and one of the mates being a duck ſhooting, were ſet upon by a party of the people conſiſting of more than 50, who firſt diverted them of their arms, and then robbed them of what articles they had carried with them to trade; in the ſcuffle the firſt lieutenant loſt the ſkirt of his coat, and one of the other gentlemen received a ſevere blow. When the party had ſtripped them of their merchandizes, they reſtored to them their fowling-pieces, and ſuffered them to make the beſt of their way on board, where king Oree happened to be feaſting; they complained of the inſult, and inſiſted on ſatisfaction for the loſs; he told them that it was not in his power to puniſh the party that had committed the robbery, they being out of his juriſdiction; but he offered to head any number of the ſhip's company that ſhould be thought [239] able to reduce them, and would ſhew them the way to their place of reſidence, which offer, being thought reaſonable, was accepted; but at the ſame time he aſſured them, that theſe men were not afraid of their guns, as they had frequently ſeen them miſs fire.

21. The captain and officers made ready to accompany king Oree in the expedition againſt the robbers; and having ordered fifty marines with ſome ſailors to be well armed, they landed near the palace of the king, and having required him to conduct them according to his promiſe, he very readily conſented, and they all ſet out together; and, having marched for more than ten miles, they at length came to a high hill, which parted the dominions of Oree from thoſe of the king whoſe ſubjects they were who committed the robbery, and over which they were to paſs before they could approach them. Here they found the aſcent very ſteep, and very fatiguing; but when they had reached the ſummit, the king ſhewed them the reſidence of the robbers at ſome diſtance in the valley on the oppoſite ſide of the hill, and left it to the captain's choice, either to proceed, or to return back. Obadee, the volunteer Indian, who had accompanied the captain in his former voyage to the South, very earneſtly diſſuaded him from proceeding, by telling him that they [240] wanted only to decoy him; that there was no acceſs to thoſe Indians but through a ſteep and narrow paſs, in which two men only could go a-breaſt, and that there they could deſtroy them with ſtones while their fire-arms could be of little or no uſe. This honeſt repreſentation having its weight, the captain gave over the purſuit, and the whole party returned, ſufficiently chagrined with their day's exploit. In the mean time, the people that were left on board had loaded all their guns great and ſmall, to be prepared in caſe of an attack from the ſhore in the abſence of their commander and his followers: but all things remaining quiet, the captain returned on board, and with him his aſſociate king Oree, who brought with him a hog for dinner ready dreſſed.

22. The inhabitants ſtill continuing to trade, and the launch and boats to bring in wood and water, the captain gave orders to put to ſea, the quantity of water being already compleat, and the wood though ſhort, not eaſily to be recruited.

23. King Oree came on board, and after mutual preſents had been exchanged, and many demonſtrations of affection and friendſhip ſhewn on the part of his majeſty, he took his leave, weeping as if he had been parting from his kingdom. Such is the diſpoſition of thoſe people, who, whether real or counterfeit, [241] have a forcible way of expreſſing ſorrow, which never fails to make a ſuitable impreſſion. But, while the chiefs were with ſome reluctance diſpatched, it was not ſo eaſy a taſk to clear the ſhip from the impertinences of the women; they all wanted preſents before they departed, and when they were driven up one hatchway they ran down another, crying and bellowing as if nothing but ruin attended their return to ſhore. It is not impoſſible, indeed, but that if they returned empty handed, they might meet with a cool reception from their old friends and connections, and that the fear of being deſpiſed for not making a better market might induce them to be ſo incorrigibly troubleſome: however, when things came to the laſt extremity, and they ſaw the ſhip unmoored, and the ſails ſpread, they betook themſelves quietly to their canoes, though they afterwards made a terrible bellowing as they rowed away.

24. They arrived at Ulietea without any thing remarkable intervening, except that Mara, the gunner's mate, who had been laid in irons for endeavouring to make his eſcape on ſhore at the ſhip's departure from Ottaheite, was releaſed from his irons, and made priſoner at large, with a ſentinel to attend him; but on his arrival in port he was again put in irons.

[242]25. The captain went aſhore and viſited the king and royal family. The queen, upon ſeeing him, inſtanly fell into a fit of phrenſy, ſtriking herſelf with a ſhark's tooth till the blood run from her in ſtreams. It is the cuſtom to do this both when they rejoice, and when they mean to expreſs grief. It was the ſudden tranſport of joy that impelled her on this occaſion; and ſhe received the captain, after the blood was done away, with open arms. After a ſhort ſtay, which exhibited a ſcene of mutual careſſes, the captain returned on board with the queen, and a beautiful young princeſs, her daughter, in company. They were ſcarce on board when all the young girls in the bay were ready to enter, and it was abſolutely neceſſary to keep out the men to avoid confuſion.

26. The trade commenced very briſkly; but nothing was called for ſo eagerly as red feathers; ſo that the captain found it neceſſary to order the men abaft, and to forbid them to traffic with red feathers, as it ſpoiled the proviſion trade. This day ſome bars of iron were taken from the hold for the armourer's uſe, and ſome tons of ſtone-ballaſt ſtowed in the hold in their room. Some fire-works were alſo this day diſplayed for the entertainment of the queen and royal family. Mr. Foſter was now indefatigable in his reſearches after the natural [243] productions of the country; and in this iſland he was permitted to range without fear or moleſtation wherever any thing that attracted his notice was to be found.

27. This day the coopers being ordered on ſhore to clean and repair ſome leaky water-caſks, one of them loſt his adze, which was ſtolen from him while he was at dinner; and as he never was able to recover it, he was puniſhed with twelve laſhes for his neglect.

28. The gentlemen were invited by the king to be preſent at a play. Their plays conſiſt of three diſtinct modes of action; muſic, dancing, and farce. Their muſic is but mean, except their ſinging, which is plaintive and ſweet; their dancing inimitable; and their farce not inferior or unlike to the drolls at Bartholomew-Fair. In ſhort, they are more laughable than the gentlemen expected, who returned not diſpleaſed with their day's diverſion, nor unaffected with the charms of ſome of the performers, who were the king's daughters, and decorated with flowers and ornaments ſo prettily interwoven with their hair, as to add a grace to their natural beauty that was quite irreſiſtible. Nothing could deform them but the diſtorted mouths they are taught to make in varying the attitudes of their war dances, which are ſo inimitably ugly that none of the [244] ſailors, ſome of whom are excellent mimicks, could copy them.

29. The pinnace and large cutter being moored every night at the buoy, as ſoon as it was light it was diſcovered that the rudders and tillers of both veſſels were wanting. Word being brought on board of this theft, the captain ordered the coxſwain of the pinnace in irons for his careleſſneſs, and inſtantly went on ſhore to recover the loſs: upon farther enquiry he was told, that the boat's grapnel was gone, as was likewiſe the boat hook. On complaint to the king, his majeſty aſſiſted the captain in the diſcovery of the thieves, and, after diligent enquiry, found out the perſon who had ſtolen the grapnels, and recovered them, as they likewiſe did the perſons who had taken the rudders; but one of them was found ſplit to get at the iron-work, and the other was returned without injury. The tiller of the pinnace and the boat's hook never were heard of; but in the room of them a large hog was brought, together with an immenſe heap of bread fruit. About ſix the coxſwain was releaſed from his irons, as it was not in the power of man to guard againſt all the ſtratagems of the natives to ſteal iron.

30. The pinnace and launch went to the ſouth ſide of the iſland with the gentlemen on board, to pay a viſit to the friends of the Indian [245] who had been to the ſouthward, and to reſtore him again in ſafety to their care. The captain was cautious of taking him to England, as he was not certain that any Britiſh ſhip would again be ſent to viſit the iſland, and he was unwilling to confine him in Europe.

31. Nothing remarkable.

June 1. The powder was taken on ſhore to air, and 22 hogs were brought on board which had been purchaſed up the country.

2. A report was ſpread that Mr. Banks and capt. Furneaux, commander of the Adventure, were arrived at Ulietea in two different ſhips. This gave great joy to the inhabitants, who believed it; but it happened to prove the lie of the day to pleaſe the inhabitants, of whom thoſe two gentlemen were remarkable favourites.

3. In return for their plays the captain entertained the royal family with a diſplay of fire-works, played off from a little iſle about 100 yards from the ſhore, where they had the happieſt effect imaginable, and were beheld with the greateſt admiration by the inhabitants for many miles up the country.

4. Preparations were this day made for putting to ſea, and in the afternoon a breeze ſpringing up fair, after taking leave of the royal family, and leaving them all in tears; and [246] after entruſting a letter with Obidee to be given to Captain Furneaux, if he ſhould happen to touch at that iſland, they weighed anchor, and ſet ſail. The number of hogs which were purchaſed was greater than they could find room for alive; they therefore ventured to kill ſome of them to ſalt, but they proved very indifferent meat.

5. A fine breeze at E. by N. they bore away W. half N. At eight in the morning altered their courſe W. by N. The priſoner Mara, being now out of danger of an eſcape, was called upon the quarter-deck, when after a proper admonition, he was releaſed, and ordered to do duty as uſual. At twelve came in ſight of a ſmall iſland bearing N. N. W. diſtance about five leagues. At noon directed their courſe Weſt. At eight in the evening hove to.

6. They directed their courſe W. S. W. Wind at N. E. At ſix ſteered W. by N. Saw ſeveral tropic birds, and ſome land birds. At half after ten ſaw a ſmall low iſland bearing W. half S. full of cocoa-nuts, but ſurrounded with a reef. At noon courſe W. by S. At ſix in the afternoon courſe W. S. W. At night hove to.

7. At five wore ſhip and purſued their courſe W. S. W. At night hove to.

[247]8. At five wore ſhip, and ſteered W. by S. Wind N. N. W. At four in the afternoon hooked a ſhark, and fired ſeveral muſket-ſhot into him, notwithſtanding which he broke the line and eſcaped. Continued their courſe the whole day, and at ten at night hove to.

9. The ſame courſe continued.

10. In the morning courſe as before. Lat. at noon 17 deg. 34 min. S. Courſe altered to S. W.

11. Laſt courſe continued. Lat. at noon by obſervation 17 deg. 56 min. This day the captain ordered the corned pork to be examined, and it not appearing to take the ſalt, it was dealt out to the ſhip's company at the rate of one pound per man a-day as long as it laſted.

12. Courſe continued. Lat. at noon 18 deg. 11 min.

13. Courſe W. by S. Wind E. S. E. Lat. at noon 18 deg. 16 min. Courſe continued.

14. Courſe continued. This day bread was ſerved to the ſhip's company, the bread-fruit purchaſed at the iſlands being expended. In their courſe they ſaw two tropic birds, and five man of war birds, ſeveral bonettoes, albicroes, and flying-fiſh.

15. This day the wind veering W. by S. they changed their courſe, ſteering S. and S. by W. in the morning. At eight tacked, and [248] ſtood to the Northward. Latitude at noon 18 deg. 7 min.

16. A light breeze at S. by E. Courſe W. by S. At ſeven ſaw land from the maſt head bearing N. N. E. Saw ſeveral dolphins and bonettoes, and catched three ſharks. Lat. at noon 18 deg. 6 min. long. 168 deg. 36 min. E. At one, being pretty near up with the land, diſcovered ſeven ſmall iſlands full of cocoanut trees, ſurrounded with a reef, but ſaw no ſign of any inhabitants; the whole circumference they computed to be about eight leagues. Finding no entrance for ſhip or boat they purſued their courſe W. by S.

17. Wind S. E. by S. Courſe W. S. W. all night.

18. Courſe continued.

19. Courſe continued. Latitude at noon 18 deg. 20 min.

20. Wind variable. Latitude at noon 18 deg. 46 min. Hauled up S. S. W. thinking they ſaw land, bearing S. by W. half W. but proved to be a heavy cloud. At half after one bore away W. S. W. as before. Wind E. by S. a freſh gale. At two ſaw land bearing W. S. W. At five hauled up S. by E. thinking they ſaw another iſland. Shortened ſail, and lay off and on all night.

[view of a harbour and plantations in the Iſland of Rotterdam]

22. They continued their courſe S. W. by W. and at noon were in lat. 19 deg. 26 min. Nothing worth relating intervening.

23. Courſe continued. Lat. at noon 19 deg. 53 min. Courſe in the afternoon W. S. W.

24. In the morning courſe as before. At eight ſteered W. by S. and in the afternoon W. N. W. Lat. at noon 20 deg. 14 min. S.

25. Bore away W. by S. At three hauled to the eaſtward, in hopes of land. At five tacked and ſtood to the N. W. At half paſt five ſaw land from beam to beam. Courſe W. by S. It proved a cluſter of iſlands, ſome very large, and others ſmall.

26. They directed their courſe for the longeſt iſle. Several canoes came from the iſles indiſcriminately, and brought plantains, bread-fruit, yams and fiſh. The people appeared in every reſpect like the Amſterdamers. At noon they caſt anchor on the north ſide of the iſland, [252] about half a mile from the ſhore in 21 fathom water, red ſand, broken ſhells, and ſmall ſtones; and preſently hoiſted out the large cutter, and ſteadied the ſhip for the convenience of trade. This afternoon one of the natives got hold of the lead-line, and was making with it towards the ſhore; but being diſcovered, was ſhot at, brought back, and the line reſtored. Shaddocks, and yams were brought in plenty.

[views of two burning mountains]

28. The morning being clear, they diſcerned from the maſt-head two large iſlands to the northward, at the diſtance of 16 or 17 leagues. About ten they appeared as repreſented in the plate. The low iſland the Indians called Taſſua; and the peeked iſland, they called Eka-u-u. At ſix the launch was ſent for water—when ſhe landed the natives came about her in ſwarms, and one of them ſeized a cartouch-box full of ammunition; others wreſted the ſecond lieutenant's fowling-piece from him; and others ſeized the cooper's bucket, with his adze and a quantity of bungs in it, and inſtantly made off. The boats crew fired at them, and they dropped the bucket; but kept the adze, the fowling-piece, and the cartouch-box. They ſeemed, indeed, in leſs dread of fire-arms than any of the ſavages they had yet met with; for the fellow who took the cartouch-box, ſeized the nozzle of the gun which the ſoldier was about to point at him, directed it from him, and by that means got clear off with his booty. As the likelieſt means to oblige them to reſtore their plunder, the captain cauſed a large ſailing canoe to be ſeized, to which they made ſome oppoſition. On the approach of the party commanded [254] on that ſervice, of which the captain himſelf was the leader, the ſavages, all but one man jumped over-board, but it was not till the veſſel was hauled upon the beach that he could be prevailed upon to quit his property; and when he did, he made towards the captain, armed with a deſperate weapon, which he brandiſhed with one hand over his head, and with the other clapt his breech. It was in vain that ſigns were made him to lay it down, but the captain preſenting his piece at him, he then, being in ſome fear, dropped it on the ground; but the inſtant the piece was taken from the captain's ſhoulder, that inſtant he ſnatched up his weapon and advanced as before. The captain was now in his own defence obliged to fire, but being unwilling to kill ſo brave a fellow, took aim where he could leaſt injure him, and ſhot him in the thighs. The gun was loaded with ſwan ſhot, one of which pierced the very hand with which he was denouncing defiance; he then ran howling to the woods; and preſently five or ſix of his companions came with him upon their backs, and ſeemed to ſupplicate relief. The ſurgeon very humanely dreſſed his wounds, applying to them a remedy he had learned among the Indians of ſcraped ſugar-cane ſpread upon a certain leaf. After this rencounter they ſeemed very peaceable, and ſoon reſtored the fowling-pieces and adze. [255] The water being bad, the captain, unwilling to loſe time, ordered the boats to be hoiſted in, and the ſhip to ſet ſail. This iſland, our journaliſt ſays, was called by the natives Anamocka; the ſame to which Taſman gave the name of Rotterdam, and where he received quite different treatment.

29. They directed their courſe to the large iſlands which they had deſcried the day before, and kept on ſounding all the way from 60 to 39 fathom water. The natives followed the ſhip all day with proviſions to trade.

30. About one in the afternoon they approached the iſlands. On the loweſt and weſternmoſt of the two they obſerved a continual ſmoke iſſuing from a hill, the eaſtermoſt end of which gave them reaſon to think that a burning mountain ſubſiſted ſomewhere in that direction, and it was not long before they were convinced of the truth of their conjecture. When at the diſtance of three leagues, the ſhip's courſe N. W. by W. the two iſlands appeared as repreſented in the Plate. Long. at noon 19 deg. 55 min. About five in the afternoon they were in full ſail between the iſlands, the loweſt of which the Indians who followed the ſhip to trade called Tuſſua. It appeared in ſome places ſo burnt that they could plainly diſcover from the ſhip by the appearance of trees how far the conflagration [256] had reached. As ſoon as they were to leeward of the burning mountain, though it was not juſt then raging, the people could perceive by the ſmart of their eyes when they looked to windward, that the very air was impregnated with ſulphurous atoms. At night ſhortened ſail, and hove too.

July 1. Purſued their courſe, without attempting to land, though no reaſon is given by our journaliſt for ſo doing. At five in the morning courſe W. S. W. with the wind from E. S. E. This courſe was continued the whole day and all the following night.

2. Courſe in the morning as before. At half after eleven diſcovered land, bearing about W. by N. half N. and bore away towards it, ſteering to N. W. Lat. at noon 20 deg. 6 min. It appeared to be full of trees; but when they came up with it found it, reefed all round. Stood off and on all night, and in the morning ſent the large cutter to ſound and examine the ſhore. On her return the officer on board reported that no anchorage was practicable; and after examining the coaſt for a conſiderable way, and attempting in vain to get ſome turtle, of which by ſeveral ſymptoms, there was reaſon to ſuppoſe there were many about the iſland, they made ſail and purſued their courſe. On this iſland they ſaw ſeveral natives, but none came on board.

[257]3. There being a light breeze from E. N. E. they bore away ſteering S W. by W. Lat. at noon 19 deg. 37 min.

4. Bore away S. W. by S. At noon ſteered S. W. by W. At ſeven in the evening ſhortened ſail, and ſteered S. S. W. all night.

5. Steered W. S. W. At ſix in the evening ſhortened ſail. At ſeven hauled up S. S. E. Wind at eaſt. Tacked every two hours all night.

6. At five in the morning bore away W. S. W. At noon courſe W. by S. Lat. 20 deg. 40 min.

7. In the morning the courſe continued. Lat. at noon 20 deg. 46 min. This day ſtruck the fore-top-maſt, the truſſel-trees being ſprung. Steered right before the wind to keep the ſhip ſteady. Wind E. N. E. to E. by South. Courſe Weſt.

8. Courſe the ſame. Lat. at noon 20 deg. 31 min. S. Courſe W. by N.

9. Courſe Weſt. Lat. at noon 20 deg. 26 min. Squally weather attended with rain. At three in the afternoon back ſhip and ſtood to the Northward. At ſix ſtiff breezes. Wind S. S. W. Courſe W. by N. Tacked every two hours all night.

10. At five in the morning bore away N. W. and continued the ſame courſe all day. At [...] [260] the two large iſlands that formed the ſtrait, and kept tacking every two hours the whole night.

20. In the morning they could perceive that they had gained conſiderably in the night, owing to the current which ſet to the windward. At eight they could ſee four iſlands, very high and very extenſive. At ten they were cloſe under the South end of the largeſt iſland, where they ſaw multitudes of the inhabitants, who lined the rocks, bellowing and howling; and ſaw alſo many ſmokes within land. At eleven they came in ſight of a large and high iſland from the maſt head, lying to windward.

21. Tacked, and ſtood for the high iſland. At ten they came in ſight of two other large iſles, on one of which was a burning mountain. About twelve, being near one of thoſe iſles, great numbers of ſavages preſented themſelves, armed with clubs, ſpears, and bows and arrows. At one tacked, and ſtood in for a pleaſant bay that preſented itſelf in the iſle which lies at the Weſt end of that on which the burning mountain was ſituated. At four hove to, and hoiſted out the boats, armed them, and ſent them in to ſound; at four they made the ſignal of anchorage, and at five the ſhip came to an anchor in nine fathom water, fine ſandy bottom. The ſhip was ſcarce moored before [261] the natives came off in their canoes from the Eaſt ſide of the bay, and many ſwam from the Weſt ſide; the diſtance not above a quarter of a mile. They were of the negroe kind, quite black, and woolly headed, poor mean deſpicable looking wretches, but armed with bows and poiſoned arrows, with every one a club made of hard wood ſlung over his ſhoulders. They were quite naked, except a girdle, or piece of matting, tied round the waiſt, and drawn ſo tight that it was with difficulty that a finger could be thruſt between it and the ſkin: they wear, beſides, on one wriſt a piece of wood or bone, ſo nicely jointed that it is not eaſy to diſcover the ſeam: this too was preſſed ſo tight that many imagined it muſt have been put on when they were very young, and that the wriſt had grown up to it; for, being curiouſly emboſſed, it was at firſt thought to be one piece, and nobody ſuſpected to find a joint. Some of them were marked on their bodies, but very different from any they had before ſeen; for, inſtead of being ſmooth, and ſeemingly indented within the ſkin, their marks appeared rough and raiſed above it. As ſoon as they approached the ſhip, or came near any of the crew, they ſprinkled water over their heads, patted their heads with their open hands, crying Towmarrow, Towmarrow; but offering no kind of [262] rudeneſs, nor miſbehaviour of any kind. They kept about the ſhip, with lights, after it was dark, and when they had ſufficiently gratified their curioſity, they went quietly away. Their boats were of a form very different from any they had beſore ſeen, being raiſed higher in the middle than at either end.

22. Great numbers of them came about the ſhip, and ſome came on board. At firſt they ſhewed no diſpoſition to miſchief, but leaped about, and admired every thing they ſaw. Being unwilling, however, to go away, and many of them preſſing to be admitted at once, it was found neceſſary to oppoſe their attempts, which brought on a quarrel, and ſeveral of them let fly their arrows from their canoes, againſt which the crew were upon their guard, as ſuſpecting their intent. The marines were then ordered to fire, and in a ſhort time the ſhip was cleared from ſuch unwelcome viſitors. One of the fellows, however, in going off let fly an arrow, as was ſuppoſed, againſt one of the officers; but he paid for his audacity with his life. In the afternoon the captain ordered out the pinnace, and with a party of marines, well armed, went on ſhore. The natives on ſeeing them land made a halt, and ſtood quite ſtill. The captain, willing to make friends with them, ſhewed them ſome articles of European manufacture, and ſome of Indian; and [263] made ſigns for them to lay aſide their weapons, and ſit down, which they obeyed. He then went up to them, and preſented their chief with a few trifles, with which he ſeemed very much pleaſed; he next acquainted them that the ſhip was in want of water, but they either did not, or would not understand him; and ſeeing there was none to be gotten without bloodſhed, nor any wood to be had but what was as hard as brazil, the captain returned on board, and prepared to ſail. None of theſe people brought either fleſh or fruit to diſpoſe of; nor could the captain procure more than one lean hog, though there were many within ſight. Thoſe who were of the wooding party ſaw ſeveral of their women, who, they reported, were ten times uglier than the men. The fellows who firſt entered the ſhip were earneſt with the ſailors to expoſe themſelves, but being refuſed with the true ſpirit of Britiſh tars, their reſentment was firſt excited by the manner in which they were repulſed: they continued, however, peaceable the remainder of the time the ſhip ſtaid, and the gentlemen and fiſhers purſued their fiſhing without moleſtation. At ten they catched a ſhark about twelve feet long: in hauling him near the boat, he gave a ſudden plunge, and, ſeizing the ſtem in his mouth, left two of his teeth buried in the wood, and it was with the [264] utmoſt danger and difficulty that five of the boat's crew could get the better of him. In diſſecting his head for one of the gentlemen to preſerve his jawbones, three inches of an Indian arrow was found buried in his brains.

23. Weighed and got clear out of the bay by towing, the Indians following in their canoes. Several of the gentlemen fell ſick, as ſuppoſed, by eating the large red ground fiſh which they had caught in the bay: they were ſtrengthened in this opinion by the dogs being taken ill that had eaten the fragments; and one of the hogs that had taken what the dogs brought up, actually died; being opened, the liver and inteſtines were turned quite black. Though the people had no notion of trade, yet ſeveral of the ſailors prevailed on ſome of them to part with their bows and arrows, which they exchanged for beads and other trifles; but their ſpears nothing that was offered them could purchaſe. From the circumſtances of the gentlemens falling ſick, and the natives uſing poiſoned arrows, the captain named this bay Venomous-Bay.

24. At ſix made ſail. At nine ſaw four unknown iſlands, ſurrounded with a reef. A number of ſmall iſlands in ſight the whole day. Tacked every two or three hours the following night.

[265]25. Still ſailing among a cluſter of iſlands. The gentlemen ſtill ſick.

26. This morning there were thirteen or fourteen iſlands in ſight. They directed their courſe S. E. by E. the eaſternmoſt land bearing S. E. They could ſee from the decks the natives of ſeveral iſles running along the beaches to look at the ſhip. At noon they changed their direction to S. E. half S. and at night they kept tacking every two hours.

27. Came in ſight of four new iſlands, of which none had been noticed before. Lat. at noon 18 deg. 20 min. Courſe as before.

28. At ſix in the morning tacked, and ſtood in for the land. At noon tacked, and ſtood to the Eaſtward for two or three ſtrange iſlands that appeared at a great diſtance. Latitude 18 deg. 29 min. At four tacked, and ſtood to the Weſtward. Saw land bearing South. The gentlemen who had been poiſoned with the fiſh pretty well recovered.

30. Saw more iſlands almoſt in every direction. They were now in what is called in our maps the Archipelago of the Great Cyclades, and of which till now we have had a very vague account.

31. This day they caught two large ſharks, one of which had five ſmall turtle in his belly, one eighteen inches long and twelve broad; [266] the other had three or four bonettas of conſiderable ſize.

Auguſt 1. Bore away S. by W. round the North Weſt end of an iſland about four or five leagues to the windward. At four in the afternoon ſaw ſeveral of the natives, who appeared in every reſpect the ſame as the ſavages in Venomous-bay. They made ſigns for the voyagers to land, by waving green boughs, the emblems of peace, and ſome of them jumped into the water, and made for the ſhip; but the ſhip making way, they were ſoon diſtanced.

2. About nine in the morning they ſent the cutter in ſhore to examine the ground, but ſhe ſoon returned without finding anchorage. They then bore away to the North Eaſtward to an iſland they had already paſſed.

3. At ſix brought to an anchor in 10 fathom water, rocky ground. Great numbers of the natives came ſwimming towards the ſhip; but on the boats being hoiſted out, they all made to land again. Their yellings were different from any they had yet heard.

4. Early in the morning the pinnace and large cutter went off to examine the coaſt, and to endeavour to find out a convenient place to wood and water. At half paſt ſeven thoſe on board the ſhip were alarmed by a continual firing from the boats on the ſhore, and immediately fired a ſwivel gun loaded [267] with grape-ſhot, and ſent the ſmall cutter well manned and armed to the aſſiſtance of the boats already engaged; at the ſame time continuing to fire from the ſhip with grape-ſhot. Soon after this the boats returned, and brought word, that they had ſcarce touched the ground when the ſavages attacked them, and wanted to haul the boats into the woods; that one of the boatſwain's mates was unfortunately run through the cheek with a ſpear, which they threw from the land; that one of the ſailors was likewiſe wounded in the thigh in two places by a like weapon; that the maſter, who commanded on this occaſion, was alſo wounded in the breaſt with an arrow, the point of which very fortunately broke in piercing his cloaths, otherwiſe it muſt have penetrated to his heart; and that ſome others had received very deſperate blows before their guns could be made uſe of; that, in return, they had killed ſeveral of the ſavages, and had wounded many more; and that by means of the ſuccours that had been ſent them, and the firing from the ſhip, they had at length cleared the coaſt of them. This conflict was continued for more than an hour, in which time ſhowers of arrows, ſpears, and ſtones came from the buſhes, and flew over and between the people in the boats, but providentially no other hurt was received except what we have [268] already related: many more, however, of the enemy would have been killed, but that the flints were ſo bad the powder would not take fire. Of the flints the complaint was general throughout the voyage, though it is not eaſy to account for ſuch a defect, as the flints contracted for by government are the beſt that can be procured. As ſoon as the boats returned the ſhip prepared to ſail, being told that no water was to be found in that bay, though it ſeemed to abound with every thing elſe. At ten they fired a round ſhot among the ſavages that ſhewed themſelves upon the ſhore, and ſtood out of the bay in ſearch of a more hoſpitable people. At night they obſerved a great body of fire, which iſſued from the burning mountain already mentioned, from whence they were not now at any conſiderable diſtance.

5. Stood in for the iſland, on which they had obſerved the burning mountain, and near which they had before landed, as has already been related. The bay they now diſcovered was ſituated at the S. S. W. part of the iſland, where the boats were ſent out to reconnoitre, and preſently brought word that there was ſafe anchorage in four fathom and a half water, that there was plenty of freſh water on ſhore, and that there was great appearance of plenty of every thing elſe that was wanted, particularly [269] of wood and fruit. This bay lay in and out N. N. E. and S. S. W. the burning hill bearing weſt half north. They had ſcarce caſt anchor, when ſeveral of the natives came off with cocoa-nuts, yams, bannanoes, plantains, &c. and one, an old man, brought on board one fowl, which he preſented to the captain. Thoſe who brought the fruit were afraid to approach the ſhip, on which the captain ordered the ſmall cutter to be manned, and to row towards them; but even this ſeemed to terrify them. They made off from the boat, but threw ſome cocoa-nuts into it, for which they did not ſeem to expect any reward. Here we cannot help remarking, that, by the ſavages bringing every where, upon the approach of the ſhip, cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, it ſhould ſeem that they imagined the ſtrangers to be a people like themſelves, come from ſome diſtant iſland to viſit them; and that therefore, it being uſual for ſuch viſitors to be in want of ſuch refreſhments, it might be the cuſtom for the inhabitants upon their firſt coming, to ſupply them; but that when they ſaw a people totally unlike themſelves, and in a veſſel too different from any they had ever before ſeen, it was but natural for them to retreat, not knowing their errand, and dreading perhaps an invaſion, or ſome miſchief to befall their country. Something of this kind muſt certainly [270] have been the caſe, otherwiſe it is not eaſy to account for their coming off in their canoes loaded with fruit, and then retiring back without daring to go near the people they intended to ſupply. Be this as it may, it was not long before great numbers of them came about the ſhip, armed with the ſame weapons as the inhabitants about Venomous-Bay made uſe of when the ſhip anchored there. There being now about 40 canoes gathered round the ſhip, they firſt began by endeavouring to cut away the buoy; but a few muſket-balls being whiſtled about their ears, preſently obliged them to deſert that enterprize. They then began their war ſong, the certain ſignal to engage. To intimidate them, and to prevent the effuſion of blood, a four pounder was fired over their heads; at which they all jumped into the ſea, and made towards the ſhore; but recovering themſelves, and finding that no one had received any hurt, they again boarded their canoes, and advanced as before. It was then thought neceſſary to fire to effect, and two or three of their canoes being diſabled by one ſhot, the reſt fled haſtily to ſhore; the boats followed, and in ſight of thouſands of them filled ſome caſks of water, and returned to the ſhip.

6. The boats were ordered to land as before; but previouſly to that attempt, the captain ordered [271] a ſpring upon the cable to keep the ſhip's broad-ſide to the ſhore, to cover the waterers; and went himſelf in the pinnace to make peace with the natives. Finding them, however, drawn up in two ſeparate bodies, all armed and prepared for war, he cauſed a muſket to be fired over their heads, and made the ſignal for them to lay down their arms, which they refuſed to do, with menaces if he dared to land. On this defiance, the ſignal was made for the ſhip to fire, which was inſtantly obeyed with great guns, ſwivels, and wall-pieces, loaded with grape-ſhot, which in leſs than a minute ſo cleared the ſhore of them, that only two of them remained, one of whom was the old man who the day before had preſented the captain with a fowl. About one the boats returned to the ſhip loaded with water, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, which, after they had felt the effects of the ſhip's ſuperiority, they brought in great abundance to the water's edge, laying them down, and running away without waiting for any thing in exchange.

7. After what had paſſed on the 6th, the natives, to all appearance, aſſumed a new aſpect: they came and laid down their arms, and ſeemed to ſupplicate for peace, which was readily granted on the part of the voyagers; and lines were marked out, over which they were not to paſs. Peace being thus far eſtabliſhed, [272] the natives came down unarmed, and brought with them watever the iſland afforded; for which they received in return ſuch articles of trade as they liked beſt. The fiſhers now began to fiſh without fear, and at three hauls of the ſeine, they caught above 500 mullet, many of them weighing 10 lb. a-fiſh. The old Indian came frequently on board, and the captain uſed him with great civility. It was ſoon diſcovered, that the body of Indians who intended to attack the ſhip were not the inhabitants about the bay, but people from another quarter, who finding themſelves unequal to the undertaking, diſperſed and retired every one to his own home. It was, however, thought prudent to be conſtantly on guard.

7. The boats went as uſual for wood and water; and this day the captain's markee was ſet up on ſnore, the natives behaving with the utmoſt humility and reſpect.

During the whole time of their ſtay the volcano roared in a moſt terrifying manner, ſometimes emitting whole torrents of flame and ſmoke that aſcended above the clouds; and ſometimes ſtones of ſuch an enourmous ſize as to be equal in bulk to the ſhip's pinnace, which were thrown like pebbles to an incredible diſtance. The convulſions wherewith it was agitated before theſe vaſt bodies were ejected, ſeemed to ſhake the foundations of [273] the iſland; and though the place where the ſhip lay was more than twelve miles diſtant, yet the aſhes, when the wind blew a breeze from the weſtward, would cover the decks like duſt.

The natives of this iſland are very black, but make themſelves ſtill blacker than they are by nature, by painting their faces of a ſhining jet, interſperſed with red and white ſpots on their noſes and foreheads. Between their noſtrils they bore holes, which they keep open with a ſhort ſtick. They go naked, except a ſort of broad girdle round their waiſts, in which the men tie up in a very ſingular manner their marks of manhood, which by their way of dreſſing, appear of uncommmon magnitude: in this conſiſts their pride. Their hair, which is not woolly, they tie differently, as each likes beſt: ſome let it flow down their ſhoulders; others tie it up in folds about their heads: others again twiſt it, and let it hang in plaits; while not a few of them cut it ſhort, or, as we ſay, crop it. They hoop and whiſtle to call a number of them together, when they intend miſchief; and when they apprehend danger, they hide themſelves in the covert of the woods.

Their women are in general paſſable when young, but frightful when they grow old. On their heads they wear a kind of bonnet, not [274] inelegantly matted, and round their waiſts a ſhort petticoat which reaches to their knees; this too is made of a kind of matting, for no cloth was ſeen among them: they paint themſelves variouſly as well as the men, but their favourite colour is red. The men ſeemed very jealous of them, and never ſuffered any of them to appear alone. They generally kept behind the men; and moſt of thoſe that were of age had a child, or a bundle upon their backs: they, notwithſtanding, were always merry, either ſhouting or laughing.

Like almoſt all the other iſlanders they were fond of working tools, and that induced them to watch an opportunity to ſteal the cooper's adze; which being miſſed, another fray commenced, and one of the ſavages bent his bow to ſhoot at the man who was purſuing the thieves; but not being quick enough in taking aim, the man ſhot him dead with the bow in his hand. The old Indian, however, who has often been mentioned, recovered the adze, and returned it to the cooper.

Here the water being very conveniently ſituated, not above 30 or 40 yards from the ſhore, the caſks were filled almoſt as ſoon as they could be cleaned and repaired; and there being plenty of wood, theſe two neceſſary articles were fully compleated; and the boats, before the other repairs could be accompliſhed, [275] had time to recruit the ballaſt, in proportion as the ſhip's ſtores were expended. During the ſhip's ſtay, the people were plentifully ſupplied with fiſh and fruit; but of pork, or other animal food, there was little to be procured.

It is not a little remarkable, that the natives of this iſland were more ſcrupulous in taking any thing from the ſailors than thoſe of any other nation, and never would touch with their bare hands what was given them, but always received it between green leaves, which they afterwards tied up, and carried upon the ends of their clubs; and if ever any of the ſailors touched their ſkin, they always rubbed the part with the like green leaf. Our journaliſt obſerves, that, notwithſtanding this falſe delicacy, they gave the ſailors to underſtand, that they eat one another; and one day when the inhabitants about the bay were in motion, and many of them marched forth armed to ſome diſtant part of the iſland, thoſe that remained invited the gentlemen to feaſt upon a man that they had barbiqued; which they refuſed with the utmoſt diſguſt.

When theſe people make a wonder at any thing, they cry Hebow, and ſhake their right hand. They wear bracelets, like as the Indians of Venomous-bay, in which they ſtick their hair-pricker, (an inſtrument which they [276] uſe to dreſs their heads) and likewiſe the ſlings with which they throw their javelins; and it is aſtoniſhing with what dexterity and force ſome of them will hit a mark. One of them, to ſhew the commanding officer on ſhore what he could do, threw his ſpear without his ſling through the bole of a three four inches in diameter, at 20 yards diſtance: another of them in the preſence of the firſt lieutenant ſhot a fiſh as it ſwam along in the ſea at the diſtance of 26 yards, with a bow and arrow, which fiſh the lieutenant carried on board with the arrow ſticking in its body, as a proof of what he had ſeen performed.

Some of the gentlemen, one clear day, attempted to aſcend a hill at ſome diſtance, with intent to view the volcano more clearly, but were obliged to retire precipitately, the ground under them being ſo hot that they might as well have walked upon a hot oven: the ſmell too was intolerably ſulphureous, which proceeded from a ſmoke that iſſued through the fiſſures of the earth; yet from this ſmoke the natives find a remedy for their cutaneous diſorders. The gentlemen obſerving a man holding a child over the ſmoke, had the curioſity to enquire the reaſon, who made them underſtand, by ſhewing the child's eruptions, that it was troubled with the itch.

[277]While the people were employed in ſearching for ballaſt, they diſcovered water iſſuing from the crevices of a rock, hot enough to draw tea. Two of the ſhip's company who had been troubled with rheumatic complaints, at times, throughout the voyage, went accompanied with the ſurgeon to bathe in the water, but found the ſtones ſo hot underneath that they could not ſtand upon them, without firſt plunging in ſome of their cold garments to keep the ſoles of their feet from touching them. In one place the waters were ſo hot there was no bearing the finger in them: in another they were juſt hot enough to bear to plunge the whole body, but not to remain any conſiderable time. What effect theſe waters had upon the two men our journaliſt has not noted; from that circumſtance, as he has been all along very particular in noting the illneſſes that happened on board, and the recoveries, there is reaſon to conclude that the waters had but little effect.

Having been already ten days employed in repairing the ſhip, taking in wood and water, and purchaſing fruits, the natives began again to grow troubleſome, watching every opportunity to level their arrows at the guard, and reſtrained only by the fear of their muſkets from proceeding to extremities. It is more than probable, however, that an act of violence [278] on the part of the ſtrangers that cannot well be juſtified, might give occaſion to this rancorous humour among the natives. Having occaſion for ſome large timber to ſupply the decays of the ſhip, orders were given a few days before their intended departure to cut down a tree of vaſt growth, and for the convenience of getting it on board to ſaw it into three pieces. This tree ſo divided, the natives eyed with pleaſure, not ſuſpecting that the ſtrangers intended to carry it off, but to leave it in compliment to them, as it ſuited exactly their ideas of conſtructing juſt double the number of canoes. To the cutting down and ſawing the natives made no oppoſition; but when they ſaw the ſailors employed in rolling down the body of the tree to the water's edge, they could not help looking ſurly; and one of them, who probably was more intereſted than the reſt, was frequently ſeen to offer his ſpear at the labourers, but was reſtrained for fear of the guard: at length he watched his opportunity, and, ſtarting from behind a buſh, was levelling an arrow full at the commanding officer, when he was diſcovered, and ſhot dead. The ball tore his arm to pieces, and entered his ſide. His companions inſtantly carried off the body, and laid it in the wood, where the ſhip's ſurgeon went to examine it, but found it totally deprived of life.

[279]The ſhip's company were now permitted to go aſhore by turns, for the preſervation of their health; but the captain knowing the natives wanted nothing ſo much as an opportunity to revenge the death of their companions, ſtrictly enjoined them never to walk alone; nor to ſtray more than an hundred yards from the guard.

In the mean time preparations were making on board to ſet ſail; the ſhip was ſmoak'd above and below, the hold freſh ſtow'd, and the ballaſt ſhifted; in ſhort, every thing was placed in ſuch order, as if the ſhip had been but juſt fitted out at home for a long voyage.

Though the people on this iſland, after feeling the effects of the European fire-arms, were peaceable, they were not friendly, nor were they, like the Indians in the Society-Iſles, fond of iron; they wiſhed for ſome of the tools with which they ſaw the ſailors cut down wood; but except an adze or two, they never attempted to ſteal any thing. The coopers left their caſks during the night unguarded, nor were they under any apprehenſions about their cloaths, which they ſuffered to lie careleſsly about while they were at work. Theſe people diſcovered none of that diſpoſition to thievery which our voyagers ſay every Indian inherits naturally. In their courſe of trade, they totally diſregard beads, and baubles, and ſeemed to prefer Rotterdam fiſh-hooks, and turtle-ſhell, [280] to every thing elſe that was offered them. They ſuffered the ſailors to have no communication with their women; nor were they eaſily perſuaded to part with their arms on any account. The produce of the iſland they freely parted with; but on whatever required labour in the conſtruction, they ſet a high value.

The iſlands which compoſe this Archipelago, are not eaſily numbered: Our journaliſt counted upwards of ſeventy in ſight at one time; they ſeem to be inhabited by people of very different natures and complexions. Some our voyagers ſaw woolly headed, and of the African race; others of a copper colour, not unlike the New-Zealanders; and others they ſaw of the mulatto colour; and not a few like the natives of Rotterdam, of a browniſh black, with long hair and ſhorn beards. The high notions, however, that were entertained of the vaſt riches of theſe iſlands; of their abounding in pearls, ſilver ore, and precious ſtones, do not ſeem well founded; neither does the iſland of Menicola anſwer, by any means, the pompous deſcription given of it by the Spaniſh writers, who found their report on the relation of an Indian-Chief, and on that of a captive, whom Quiros ſeized and carried to Mexico. From the former Quiros learned, that to the N. W. of his country, (Taumaco) there were more than ſixty iſlands, and a large country, [281] which he called Manicola; that, to explain which were ſmall, he made circles, and pointed to the ſea with his finger, and made ſigns that it ſurrounded the land; and for the larger he made large circles, and the ſame ſigns; and for that large country he opened both his arms, without joining them again, ſhewing that it extended without end; and by ſigns he ſhewed which people were whites, negroes, Indians, and Mulattoes, and which were mixed; and that in ſome iſlands they eat human fleſh; and for this he made ſigns by biting his arm, ſhewing clearly his abhorrence of ſuch people. He likewiſe gave him to underſtand, that in the great country, there were cows or buffaloes.

From the captive, Quiros learnt that in ſome of thoſe iſlands, there were pearls, as large as ſmall pebbles; that the pearls were white and ſhining; and that when they looked at them againſt the ſun, the ſhining luſtre dazzled their eyes; that at five days of their ſailing from a country which he named, lay that great country Manicola, inhabited by many people, duncoloured, and Mulattoes, who lived in large towns; that the country was high and mountainous, with many large rivers; that he with many others had gone to it in one of their embarkations in queſt of the trunk of a large tree of the many that are in it to make a periagua; and that he ſaw there a port larger, and the entrance [282] narrower than that of the bay of St. Philip and St. Jago; and that the bottom was ſand, and the ſhore ſhingle; he added, that they had warlike inſtruments, pointed with ſilver. This captive, after he had learnt the Spaniſh languages, confirmed what he had ſaid of the great country, and what the Chief had ſaid of the many iſlands, and of the different nations, with which they were peopled; ſome luſty, with bodies punctuated; and others without punctuation, of various colours, long hair, red black, curled, and woolly-headed; and being ſhewn ſome ſtones impregnated with ſilver, he ſaid in the great country he had ſeen ſuch ſtones and likewiſe at Taumaco, where the natives uſed ſome to punctuate themſelves, and others for ornament.

From theſe intimations, (for we can find no other) Mr. Dalrymple infers, that if Quiros had ſtood to the ſouthward, ‘"that courſe would have undoubtedly diſcovered to him the great ſouthern continent, or as Quiros emphatically expreſſes it, the mother of ſo many iſlands."’ This voyage, however, has ſhewn all theſe queſtionleſs affirmations, and probable conjectures, to be no other than mere aſſumptions founded on a falſe hypotheſis. The courſe which Taſman purſued in 1722, joined to that which Captain Cooke has lately compleated in 1775, has demonſtrated [283] the non-exiſtence of a ſouthern continent, in the direction, in which Mr. Dalrymple ſo poſitively aſſerts Quiros might have found it; and indeed, every other direction from the line to the 50th degree of ſouthern latitude, between which he has given it a place.

The courſe we are now tracing along with this able navigator, is the ſame we had remarked as proper for his examination in the winter of 1773, inſtead of ſailing to the eaſtward; but it is with pleaſure that we embrace this opportunity to diſclaim the leaſt intended cenſure, and to acknowledge the ſuperiority of his judgment, as by the courſe he took he has left no room for conjecture, reſpecting the great object he had in view, in any direction whatever. Having in 1770, ſailed to the ſouthward, in long. 213 deg E. as far as the 41ſt degree of latitude; in 1773, he ſailed eaſtward in that latitude, from the 175th, to the 227th degree of eaſtern longitude, where having found himſelf nearly at an equal diſtance from the moſt ſoutherly point of his track from Ottaheite to New-Zealand in 1770, and his track in the ſame latitude from Cape-Horn to Ottaheite the ſame year, he tacked and ſteered to the northward, till he fell in with all the beaten tracks of former navigators, and then directed his courſe for Ottaheite. From Ottaheite he widened his courſe, and viſiting Middleburg and Amſterdam iſlands, he ſailed directly [284] for New-Zealand; from whence, in the ſummer of that climate, he again took his departure, and extended his line, directing his courſe ſouthward, beyond the antarctic circle, ſtill ſteering a ſouth-eaſterly courſe, till he arrived at the 265th degree of eaſtern longitude, where changing his direction to the northward, he again made Ottaheite his place of rendezvous, taking in his way the famous Eaſter-iſland of the Dutch, and determining the non-exiſtence of any other land, pretended to have been ſeen by Davis, or Juan Fernandez, in that quarter, and viſiting the Marqueſas of the Spaniards, which he found tolerably laid down and deſcribed.

Having refreſhed his men, and repaired his ſhip, at Ottaheite, the range we are deſcribing was part of his 3d and laſt enterprize; in which we have already accompanied him to Anamaka, or Rotterdam Iſland, which he omitted to viſit in his former circuit, and from thence to that great country, of which ſo many fine things had been ſaid, and ſo many flattering conjectures credited; but with what foundation in truth the reader has already been made acquainted.

The iſland on which Capt. Cooke choſe to refit is ſituated in lat. 19 deg. 30 min. S. and in long. 169 deg. 38 min. E. It is called by the natives Tanna, and the bay where the ſhip caſt anchor Providence. Where the effects of the volcano did not reach, the iſland is fertile, [285] abounding in fruits of various ſorts, which grow to a vaſt magnitude: our journaliſt weighed a yam which exceeded 55 lb. and other fruits in proportion. The trees too are of an extraordinary ſize; but a wide circle in the interior part of the iſland, diſcovered nothing to the eye but a dreary waſte, covered with cinders, and tainting the air with ſulphur. Other ſurrounding iſlands looked pleaſant to the eye; but, according to the report of the natives of Tanna, abounded in nothing of which they themſelves were in want.

Early on the 20th of Auguſt, the captain gave orders to weigh anchor, and about ten in the morning made ſail to the S. S. W. with the wind at S. S. E.

21. Tacked, and ſtood to the ſouthward. At eleven the volcano bore N. W. by W. diſtance eight or nine leagues; and the Weſt point of Tanna bore W. by N. half N. diſtance four or five leagues. Courſe round the South point of the iſle W. half N. This part of the iſland looked exceeding beautiful, as if cultivated from the tops of the higheſt hills to the loweſt vallies. At ſix in the evening ſaw land bearing N. W. by W. and ſteered in that direction.

22. Came a-breaſt of the iſle called Harramango, where the quarrel happened in which a multitude of the inhabitants were killed, and where ſome of the ſhip's company were [286] wounded, as has been already related. Made ſail to the N. W. by N. and about eleven came in ſight of another iſland, very large and very pleaſant, which happened to be an iſland they had paſſed before, and which they had diſtinguiſhed by the name of Lord Sandwich's Iſland.

23. Came in ſight of the famous iſle of Monicolo, and ſailed along ſhore N. W. and N. W. by N. It has a moſt beautiful appearance, full of plantations, and all of them well fenced. They were frequently ſo cloſe to ſhore that they could hear the natives hollow to them. Being arrived nearly at the Weſt end, they diſcovered a paſſage (the ſame they had paſſed before two days after they had diſcovered theſe iſlands); and night approaching, they ſhortened ſail, and lay to. In the night many fires were ſeen on the iſland of Manicôlo.

24. Courſe N. N. W. through the ſtrait. The land to the weſtward ſeemed to be of great extent, and very delightful. At four in the afternoon ſaw another iſle, bearing N. half W. Tacked, and ſtood to the S. E.

25. Tacked, and ſteered to the N. W. Saw much land to the W. and S. W. At eleven entered a large deep bay; hauled up W. and W. S. W. The land at each extremity of this bay is very high: our journaliſt has named it the bay of St. Philip and St. James, diſcovered by Mindana in 1595. In this bay [287] the Spaniards made a ſettlement, and laid the foundations of a city, to which they gave the name of New Jeruſalem; and to the two rivers between which it was ſituated they gave the names of Jordan and Salvador.

26. There being a fine breeze from the S. S. W. they ſtood pretty well into the bay, the entrance to which lies N. by W. At two they hoiſted out the pinnace and large cutter, armed them, and ſent them to ſearch for anchorage, in order to exchange their water taken in at Tanna, it proving very bad. While the boats were employed in examining the coaſt, three canoes came cloſe by the ſhip, and ſtruck their ſails; but the men would not venture to come on board. The voyagers threw them ſome medals, cloth, and nails; the latter of which were moſt joyfully received. In return they offered ſome plants of cinnamon trees, which they had in their boats. They had likewiſe in their canoes long ſpears, headed with the tail bones of the ſtingray, but did not ſhew the leaſt diſpoſition to miſchief. They were black and woolly-headed, (which by no means anſwers the deſcription which Quiros gives of the inhabitants about the bay of St. Philip and St. James, who are, according to that voyager, of a brown complexion,) and go naked, except a belt tied tight round their waiſts, in like manner with the people [288] before deſcribed. They are of the middle ſtature, and wear bracelets, as moſt of the people in theſe iſlands do, but differ in one reſpect, by ornamenting their heads with plumes of feathers like the inhabitants of New Zealand. About four o'clock in the afternoon the boats returned, without being able to diſcover a watering-place, or any ſafe anchorage within the bay: they ſaw, however, a large river, but no harbour within reach. Several of the inhabitants came in ſight, but were very ſhy, and kept at a diſtance. Upon this intelligence they hoiſted the boats on board, and made ſail out of the bay, at the mouth of which they lay off and on all night.

27. This day they began to uſe the water-engine to ſweeten the water taken in at Tanna, and it had a very good effect.

28. Saw great numbers of fires in the night. The wind calm, made little or no way.

29. The calm continued.

30. At eight in the morning made ſail, and ſtood in for land. Still little wind.

31. Saw two iſlands to the eaſtward, one of which extended to a great diſtance. At twelve tacked, and ſtood to the eaſtward.

Sept. 1. No land in ſight.

2. This day one of the petty officers was put in irons for miſbehaviour.

3. The officer was releaſed on his ſubmiſſion.

[289]4. Came in ſight of land, bearing about E. and S. by E. Ship's head S. S. E. About twelve ſaw the land more plain, large, and extenſive.

5. Worked well in with the land. Seeing 20 or 30 canoes ſtanding towards the ſhip, they thought it adviſeable to load the great guns, and to prepare for defence, in caſe of oppoſition. About eight they hoiſted out the pinnace and large cutter, and ſent them forwards to examine an opening which they obſerved in the reef. They returned, having ſound a clear paſſage, and very regular ſoundings, from eight and a half to five and a half fathoms water. At one the ſhip came to an anchor within half a mile of the land. In leſs than half an hour the ſhip was ſurrounded with the natives, moſtly armed with clubs, ſpears, and ſlings, the ſtones of which were of the ſize of an egg, ſmooth and round as if turned in an engine: they appeared, however, very peaceable, and ſeveral were admitted on board. They were moſt of them, but not all, flat noſed and woolly headed; of a middling ſtature, and naked, except about their waiſts. All the iſlanders ſeen in this Archipelago are nearly naked alike, having no other clothing but a girdle, ſometimes of one fabric, ſometimes of another, drawn tight about their middles, and ſo contrived as to cover them as low as the [290] haunches. Some of the natives here, like thoſe of Eaſter-Iſland, have holes bored in their ears, and wear heavy ornaments in them, which draw them down to a frightful length; and ſome of them were punctuated with ſprigs of flowers and other figures upon their breaſts, arms, and legs. Their chiefs wear large black caps on their heads, and have ornaments of bone, tortoiſe-ſhell, or mother of pearl, upon their arms.

Their canoes are all double, and ſail with two ſails made of matting. They are built with a room acroſs, which gives them the appearance of large floating ſtages, and are capable of carrying a great number of men. They are not rowed with oars or paddles as moſt other canoes are, but ſkulled along with long poles flatted at the ends, and let down through holes between the boats, and with theſe they guide their veſſels in ſailing or turning. They uſe ſtraps for their ſpears, ſuch as are in uſe among the natives of Tanna, but more curiouſly wrought. They ſeem to be a warlike people, if one may be allowed to judge from the many deep ſcars wherewith they are marked: but, what was remarkable, many of them appeared to be broken bellied, and not a few were blind of one eye.

As ſoon as the ſhip was properly ſecured, the captain and ſeveral of the gentlemen went [291] on ſhore in the pinnace to eſtabliſh peace with the chiefs, who all ſeemed very well diſpoſed; and when they returned, they expreſſed their ſatisfaction at the manner of being received. Their houſes were very different from any they had before ſeen, and were built in the form of beehives, with each two doors oppoſite one to the other, to let in the air, and let out the ſmoke, of which they ſtunk moſt abominably.

Their plantations are pleaſant beyond deſcription, and are chiefly cultivated by the women, who likewiſe have the care of the children, and carry the burdens. They are more ſlenderly covered in this iſland than in moſt of the others, and differ very little in that reſpect from the men, and like them too are moſtly black and woolly-headed.

The iſland does not abound in variety of fruits; but the gentlemen who went up into the country reported that they ſaw wild-fowl in abundance, as well as tame. The captain made the chief who welcomed him on ſhore, and who afterwards viſited him on board, a preſent of a ſow and boar, and of ſome other animals, males and females, of which they had none upon the iſland.

6. The aſtronomer, with the captain and officers, went to a ſmall iſle adjoining to the main to obſerve an eclipſe of the ſun, which happened [292] between the hours of two and three in the afternoon; and it being a clear day, they had a fine opportunity of determining the time of its duration with the utmoſt exactneſs.

Having diſcovered a clear ſtream of running water, the carpenters and others were employed in cutting down trees, and buſhes, to make a rolling way to facilitate the labour of conveying the water to the ſea-ſide. This was of infinite uſe, and ſhortened the ſhip's ſtay ſeveral days.

This day the ſhip's butcher died of a hurt he received by falling down the hatchway the day before. One of the Indians ſtruck an uncommon fiſh with a ſpear, which was purchaſed by one of the officers, and preſented to the captain as a rarity, but it had the ſame effect with that eaten in Venomous-Bay, and made thoſe ſick who partook of it. The hog that eat the entrails died. The gentlemen, however, ſoon recovered.

7. The butcher was this day buried with the uſual ſea ſolemnity.

8. Moſt of the people employed in watering.

9. The launch and large cutter were ſent to examine the coaſt, and to endeavou [...] to find a paſſage for the ſhip, without going round the iſland.

[293]10. The boats, not returning, the captain began to be in pain for their ſafety.

11. About eleven in the morning, the launch and large cutter were ſeen at a great diſtance, beating up to recover the ſhip. About four in the afternoon ſome of the gentlemen, who went out in the boats, and who travelled over land a conſiderable way, came on board, and brought an account that the large cutter had ſprung a leak; and that the launch had carried away her fore-yard; that the cutter had fortunately reached the ſhore, and ſtopped her leak; and that the launch had made ſhift to ſupply her loſs, by a new contrivance, which neceſſity had ſuggeſted; they likewiſe related the manner of their travelling acroſs the country, and of the civility they received from the natives wherever they had occaſion to refreſh, bringing them ſugar cane, and tarra-root, which the natives here call by the name of coao. In the courſe of their journey, they paſſed by ſeveral of the burying places of their dead, which were equal in neatneſs and regularity to thoſe in the Society-iſles. In their plantations there were ſeveral low cocoa-nut-trees, as if but lately planted, and in the low marſhes not a few mangroves. In the woods they ſaw the marks of many fires, about which the ſhells of fiſhes were ſcattered in plenty; from whence it was conjectured that the natives lived chiefly [294] upon ſhell-fiſh, as neither bread-fruit, nor plantains ſeemed to abound; and that thoſe yams that were brought to market were held very precious. The bread they chiefly uſe is made of the tender ſhoots of a certain tree, not unlike to liquoriſh root in colour and grain. Theſe ſtewed in an earthen pot, when ready, have much the ſame taſte as roaſted potatoes. In the evening the boats recovered the ſhip, after a very fatiguing voyage, in which they were much incommoded by the weather.

12. This day the carpenter's mate, by the captain's order cut the following inſcription on a large tree, HIS BRITANNIC MAJESTY'S SHIP RESOLUTION 1774. About three in the afternoon hoiſted in the launch and ſmall cutter, and prepared every thing in readineſs to ſail.

13. At ſix in the morning weighed anchor, and made ſail with the wind E. S. E. ſteering to clear the paſſage between the reefs, by which they entered the harbour. At eight bore away for the eaſt end of the iſle W. by N. and W. N. W. While they continued this courſe, the dead man's cloaths were ſold by auction as uſual. At two in the afternoon, ſaw an iſland bearing S. by E. at a great diſtance. At ſeven two more iſlands came in ſight, one bearing S. W. the other W. by N. Stood off and on all night.

[295]14. Tacked and ſtood to the northward. The reef ſtill a head.

15. Bore away W. N. W. At eight tacked, ſeeing the reef a head, and ſtood S. E. by E. Wind E. by N. At two calm, the reef not above a league and a half diſtant, and a light breeze from the eaſtward, and a heavy ſwell from the northward, which ſet in on the reef, alarmed the whole crew with the apprehenſion of danger, which was not a little increaſed by a dead calm that immediately ſucceeded, the ſhip's drift being right in upon the reef. The pinnace and large cutter, as the only means under Providence to ſave the ſhip, were hoiſted out with that alertneſs by which the crew of the Reſolution were diſtinguiſhed, and both being employed in towing the ſhip off, with inconceivable labour, in which thoſe who were engaged were relieved every two hours, they cleared the reef, but not till the next day.

16. The boats ſtill towing:—about eight in the morning the reef was ſeen at a conſiderable diſtance; and about eleven, a breeze ſpringing up from the S. by W. the pinnace and cutter were hoiſted on board, and the ſhip made ſail to the eaſtward.

17. They now began to direct their courſe to the ſouth-eaſtward, and it was ſoon conjectured by the ſhip's company that the place to which they were bound was New-Zealand; but [294] [...] [295] [...] [296] it was not till the 21ſt that they cleared the land. This iſland muſt therefore be of conſiderable extent, and was perhaps that great country which the Indian Chief told Quiros lay to the ſouthward, and which Quiros might miſinterpret, by ſuppoſing it Monicôla, which is ſmall in compariſon to the great-country meant. Be this as it may, it does not appear that any European veſſel ever before viſited this iſland, to which Capt. Cooke gave the name of New Caledonia; it is ſituated partly between the 19th and 22d degree of ſouth-latitude, and in long. 165 deg. 50 min. E. and at a diſtance appears very lofty and mountainous. Its extent from north to ſouth full 90 leagues. From eaſt to weſt unknown.

On the 24th, about ſour in the afternoon, ſteering E. S. E. they came in ſight of two ſmall iſles off the Eaſt point of the great iſland.

On the 25th they bore away S. by W. and ſaw ſeveral ſmall iſles to the eaſtward of the main. At three in the afternoon changed their courſe E. S. E. Saw white water a-head, and hauled up to the Eaſt. Theſe iſles were full of trees, and ſome of them had the appearance of ſtatues, ſuch as were ſeen on Eaſter-Iſland. Caught two ſharks that were beſpoke before taken. To ſailors who are not accuſtomed to dainties, the fleſh of theſe creatures, [297] when cleared of the fat, is very good meat; and their inteſtines not much inferior to haſelet, which by ſome is accounted a delicacy. Hoiſted out the ſmall cutter to try the current, but found none. Light breezes from the land. Tacked every two hours during the night.

26. Saw great flocks of birds, but at ſuch a diſtance as not to be able to diſtinguiſh to what claſs they belonged. Stood to S. W.

27. Tacked, and ſtood to the S. E. cloſe under the iſle ſeen on the 23d to to the eaſtward of the main. It preſented a moſt beautiful landſcape: the trees ſeemed ranged in lines, and being nearly of a height, and the hills and lawns diverſifying the proſpect, nothing in nature could appear more delightful, except that water was wanting to compleat the picture. Stood off and on all night.

28. Saw the iſland on their lee-beam. Wind E. S. E. a ſtiff gale. Courſe S. W. and S. S. W. At eight tacked, and ſtood N. N. W. At eleven the man at the maſt head called aloud HIGH LAND. About one in the afternoon ſaw the land from the deck extending as far as the eye could carry, bearing W. S. W. and W. by S. Hauled up to the S. W. by S. When they hauled up, the beautiful iſland they had juſt quitted bore about E. half N. diſtance ſix leagues; and the high land in ſight bore about N. N. W. diſtance [298] eight or nine leagues. At four ſaw breakers almoſt all round them. Tacked, and ſtood to the North, that being the cleareſt paſſage. At five tacked again, and ſtood to the ſouthward. About five ſteered to the North-Eaſt, and N. E. by N. Sounded, and got every thing in readineſs to caſt anchor in forty fathom water; but the wind blowing hard, and the breakers and ſhoals multiplying about them, preſented nothing but danger; it was therefore determined to bear away, and to take ſhelter under the lee of a ſmall iſle about four leagues from the High Land, where they dropped anchor in thirty-nine fathom water, fine ſhelly bottom.

29. The captain and gentlemen went on ſhore, and found that the iſland was frequented by the Indians, who had made many fires in the woods, about which lay ſcattered the bones and ſhells of fiſh: they found likewiſe two canoes buried in the ſand upon the beach, and the callipee of a turtle at ſome diſtance from the water's edge. They found no water upon the iſland; but, after a fruitleſs ſearch, returned on board very much fatigued: the carpenters, however, were ſent on ſhore, who cut eight or nine ſtraight ſpars, which were much wanted; and having made ſome neceſſary repairs in the maſts and rigging,

[299]On the 30th they weighed anchor, and narrowly eſcaped tumbling upon a ſunken rock, which they diſcovered juſt under their lee-bow. Steering to the South-Eaſt, they diſcovered that the High Land already mentioned was a part of New Caledonia, which they diſcovered on the 4th inſtant: they therefore kept on their courſe.

Oct. 1. Sailed with great caution, the ſea being full of reefs and ſunken rocks. At ten they loſt ſight of land, and then made all the ſail they could E. by S. Tacked, and ſtood to the S. W. and at twelve tacked again, and ſtood to the eaſtward, probably in ſearch of ſome new land.

2. Courſe in the morning E. and E. S. E. a great ſwell from the ſouthward. At eleven ſaw ſome man of war birds. Courſe S. by W.

3. Courſe S. by E. the weather ſqually.

4. Stood S. and S. by E. Saw a few birds.

5. Steered S. S E. the whole day. Lat. at noon 26 deg. 31 min.

6. At five in the morning tacked, and ſtood W. S. W. The weather being fine, and the gentlemen ſeeing many birds about the ſhip, ordered out the boat, and went a-ſhooting. About two in the afternoon they returned, having killed four large albatroſſes, and ſeveral ſmall birds. About five hoiſted in the [300] boat, and continued their courſe the whole night.

7. Stood to the S. W. all day. Wind S. S. E.

8. At twelve at noon ſtood S. W. by. S. At five they ſtruck a ſmall porpoiſe, as the ſailors imagined; but, having purſued and brought it aboard, the naturaliſts were divided; and, by the moſt knowing, it was ſaid to be an ancient dolphin.

9. Courſe this day W. S. W. Struck another of the above fiſh, and broke the harpoon in him cloſe to the ſockets. The former being dreſſed proved very good meat.

10. At five in the morning came in ſight of land, bearing about S. And S. S. W. at ſix it appeared high and full of trees; neared it very faſt, and all the morning employed in working under the lee of the iſle: at one, being cloſe by it, they hoiſted out the pinnace and large cutter, and the captain with two of his lieutenants went on ſhore to reconnoitre the coaſt, and at the ſame time taking the carpenter's crow along with them to fell ſome trees, of which there were abundance large enough for maſts for third-rate men of war, and others fit for yards, boltſprits, and all other uſes about the ſhip. They met with no inhabitants, nor any obſtruction whatever. The woods abounded with parrots and parroquetes, pidgeons, and other birds; but they [301] found no water. The iſland appeared broken, and barren in many places; but in the vallies between the hills nothing could look more beautiful. At five in the afternoon the boats came in from the ſhore, the carpenters having felled what trees were wanted for uſe, which being ſhipped on board, the boats were hoiſted in, and the ſhip ſtretched away to the eaſtward, with intent to go to the windward of the iſle. In this courſe they paſſed a ſmall uninhabited iſland, on which there grew abundance of cabbage trees; of theſe the ſhip's crew made the proper uſe. About eight in the evening the middle of the large iſland bore South half Weſt ſix or ſeven leagues.

11. Still endeavouring to get to the windward of the iſland. Wind at E. and S. by E. Courſe South. At ten the two iſles made into one, latitude at noon 29 deg. 27 min. Courſe S. S. E. Sounded in 33 fathom water; but the breeze favouring, they purſued their courſe, after giving a name to the iſland, and calling it Norfolk Iſle. Lat. 28 deg. 58 min. and long. 167 deg. 30 min. E. by obſervation.

12. Courſe S. S. E. all day. At noon lat. 31 deg. 30 min. by obſervation.

[The difference of latitude between our journaliſt's reckoning, and the aſtronomer's, to fix the exact ſituation of the iſland on the 11th, is not eaſily accounted for: our journaliſt's, [302] however, ſeems quite conſiſtent with the run of the ſhip.]

13. Courſe S. E. by S. Saw ſomething ahead that very much reſembled land; but on nearing it, found it only a fog-bank. Hauled up S. E. by E. and ſteered in that direction all night.

14. Courſe S. E. by E. as before. Lat. at noon 34 deg. 8 min.

15. Courſe continued till noon. Altered S. E. Wind at north.

16. Courſe the ſame. At half paſt eleven the wind ſuddenly changed, and blew a ſtorm, with thunder, lightening and rain. Courſe in the evening S. S. E.

17. Came in ſight of land, bearing S. E. by E. half E. It proved to be Cape-Egmont, in New-Zealand, almoſt covered with ſnow. Sounded and made all the ſail they could to the S. E. by S. At ten a ſtiff gale from the weſtward, courſe S. S. E. At four in the afternoon ſaw the ſouthern land, ſhip's way all day eight and eight ½ knots an hour. At five hauled up, S. by W. night approaching. At twelve wore ſhip, and ſtood to the northward.

18. At two wore ſhip and ſtood to the ſouthward. At eleven in a few ſeconds of time the wind varied all round the compaſs. At twelve brought too in Charlotte-Sound in New-Zealand, within a mile and a half of their former [303] birth. At two hoiſted our the large and ſmall cutter, and ſent them on ſhore, to ſee if the bottle had been removed, that was left with directions for the Adventure. They returned, and brought word, that the tree, under which it was depoſited, had been cut down, and the bottle taken away, but whether by the natives, or by the Adventure's crew, they could not determine. They hauled the ſeine, but could catch no fiſh; but gathered ſcurvy-graſs and wild cellery in plenty, which were no leſs acceptable. Here the fowlers kill wild fowl in abundance, and the crew being almoſt all of them in health, were little leſs rejoiced than if they had arrived on the coaſt of England.

19. They moored the ſhip, and ſent the tents aſhore; began to cut down wood and prepare for watering; but wondered that none of the natives came in ſight. Theſe ſavages undoubtedly imagined that the ſhip was come to revenge the death of the Adventure's men, whom they had killed and eaten; but being ſoon relieved from that dread, they came about the ſhip as uſual, bringing fiſh, and whatever elſe the iſland produced, and behaving in ſeemingly a friendly manner.

Here the ſhip's crew pitched their tents as uſual, and all hands were employed in repairs of various kinds; the gentlemen in reconnoitring [304] the country, and the captain in ſurveying the Sound, in which he diſcovered a paſſage leading into the main ocean through ſeveral channels, 12 or 13 leagues from the entrance of the Sound. While the pinnace was employed in this diſcovery, ſhe was dogged the whole day by a large double canoe, which however, did not dare to attack her, though encouraged by the ſavages on ſhore, who heaved ſtones at the pinnace, but did not reach her.

The gentlemen, who went out a-ſhooting, found a hog upon Long-iſland, left there, as was ſuppoſed, by the Adventure; ſhe was very wild, and took to the woods as ſoon as diſcovered. Several of the crew went afterwards to hunt her, but without effect.

During their intercourſe with the natives, they were given to underſtand that a ſhip had been caſt away upon the coaſt; and that the natives had overcome the people, had killed them, and eat them.

Juſt before their departure, ſeveral ſtrange Indians came rowing down the Sound, having a variety of articles, the produce of the country, to diſpoſe of; ſome curiouſly wrought in jaſper, ſome in wood; and not a few in reeds and matting. Some of their country cloth they brought likewiſe and exhanged for Ottaheite cloth, and cocoa-nut ſhells, of which laſt [305] they were very fond, and of which there were ſome thouſands on board. Theſe ſavages had with them ſeven or eight young red painted blue-lip'd cannibal ladies, who were by no means unwilling to be introduced to the company of ſuch of the ſhip's crew as fancied them. The gunner's mate, who had been confined in irons for endeavouring to leave the ſhip at Ottaheite, was here puniſhed with twelve laſhes for going aſhore without leave in purſuit of one of thoſe beauties.

After ſtaying in this harbour from the 19th of October, till the 10th of November, and after taking in their full quantity of wood and water for a long run, they weighed anchor, and made ſail with a fine breeze, blowing right out of the harbour.

On the 12th of November they cleared the land, and ſteering a S. S. E. courſe, till they came into the 53d degree of ſouthern latitude, they continued in that parallel nearly till they came in ſight of land between the ſtraits of Magellan and Cape-Horn. In this long run, and in this high latitude, they met with not the leaſt obſtruction; they were favoured by wind and weather; for, from the time of their departure on the 12th of November, till their ſeeing land on the 17th of December, the weather, conſidering the climate, was moderately warm, and wind not unfavourable.

[304]
[...]
[305]
[...]

[306]Oh the 16th of November they were in lat. 49 deg. 33 min. when the captain ordered canvas to be nailed all round the hatchways, to defend the crew, as much as poſſible, from the ſeverity of the cold, in the climate they were about to navigate; and took every other precaution that was in his power for the preſervation of the health of all his men.

On the 18th at noon, their latitude was 53 deg. 44 min.

On the 25th, their latitude at the ſame hour was 55 deg. 19 min.

On the 26th, the ſame

On the 4th of December, 53 deg. 15 min.

On the 5th, 53 deg. 8 min.

On the 7th, 53 deg. 20 min.

On the 8th, 53 deg. 33 min.

On the 9th, 53 deg. 27 min. Long. 256 deg. 21 min.

On the 10th, 53 deg. 83. min. Long. 257 deg. 46 min.

On the 11th, 54 deg. 14 min.

On the 13th, 53 deg. 25 min.

On the 14th, 53 deg. 27 min.

On the 15th, by obſervation, 53 deg. 30 min.

On the 16th, 53 deg. 26 min.

On the 17th came in ſight of land, which proved the ſouth ſide of Terra del Fuego, very rugged, and full of ſnow. There appeared, however, a great many iſles and entrances; [307] but the whole country preſented neither tree nor ſhrub.

On the 18th, being in lat. 53 deg. 51 min. they came in ſight of a flock of birds that extended for more than two miles; at the ſame time a great many ſhags came flying about the ſhip. Lat. this day at noon 53 deg. 51 min. Long. 287 deg.

19. Bore away E. by S. and coaſted along ſhore, at the diſtance of about five or ſix leagues. It ſtill appeared craggy and mountainous, and covered with ſnow; no trees or buſhes, but the rocks reſounding with the cries of ſea-fowl, and birds of various kinds. At ten in the morning ſounded in 45 fathom water, courſe gravel. At half paſt four in the afternoon, tacked, and ſtood right in for the ſhore, ſome part of which looked not unlike a large iſland of ice, except in magnitude and extent.

20. About one in the afternoon the ſouthern head, known by the name of Cape-Horn, came in ſight, ſounded in 45 fathom water, ſandy bottom. Lat. 55 deg. 10 min. Stood in for the land, which appeared barren as a deſart; but the weather being clear and moderate, the whales were ſporting, and throwing up the water like ſo many fountains, all along the coaſt. Diſcovered a fine bay, and ſtood towards it, but there being little wind, hoiſted out the pinnace, the large and ſmall cutters, and towed [308] cloſe in ſhore; and about nine at night came to an anchor in 25 fathom water.

21. Sent the boats out to ſearch for water, who in the afternoon returned, having ſucceeded. Some of the officers who were on board the boats killed a great number of wild geeſe, not indeed ſo large as the geeſe in England, but much handſomer. On their report the ſhip unmoored, and when ſteadied again, ſhe was landlocked on every ſide, ſo that no wind could blow to hurt her. On reconnoitring the country, they found a ſmall quantity of wild cellery, and at ſome diſtance from the ſhore, diſcovered trees, the bark of which taſted like pepper. Theſe trees, have obtained the name of Winterania Aromatica, in compliment perhaps to Capt. Winter, who was the firſt who brought a quantity of their bark from the ſtraits of Magellan into England. There are trees, however, of a ſimilar kind in almoſt every iſland in the Weſt-Indies, the bark, fruit, and leaves of which have a fine aromatic flavour, and are uſed both in food and phyſic. What appears remarkable, is, that trees ſo like in quality, ſhould grow in ſuch oppoſite climates; and yet that thoſe which grew in the Weſt-Indies can by no ſort of culture be brought to live in England, except in the ſtove.

Though the ſhips that paſſed the ſtraits of Magellan, experienced great hardſhips in navigating [309] that narrow ſea, and were expoſed to innumerable dangers, owing to the ſtrong tides, and uncertain weather, yet our navigators, by rounding Cape Horn, eſcaped all theſe inconveniences. The weather was fine, though ſomewhat cold, and, by a diligent ſearch, they found wood as well as water, ſufficient to ſupply their wants.

While the crew was employed in cutting wood, and filling water, the captain was vigilant in examining the coaſt. About five or ſix miles from the place where the ſhip rode at anchor, he came to a cove, where he found the frame of a wigwam, or two, in which ſome Indians had formerly reſted, and where they had made a fire, and feaſted upon ſhell fiſh. He likewiſe met with ſome ſea-fowl that could not fly, but fluttered upon the ſurface of the water, as faſt as thought, and were ſuch ready divers, that though the captain, and the gentlemen who accompanied him, fired ſeveral times, and hit the very ſpot on which they were fluttering, yet they never could kill one of them.

While the ſhip lay at anchor in this bay, one William Wedgborough, a marine, was miſſing, and no body could give any account of him. About twelve o'clock at night, on the 22d of December, he was drinking in company with three or four more of his comrades, and after that he was never ſeen; he was a fine hearty [310] jolly fellow, about 24 years of age, and well reſpected by all his corps. This is rather worth noticeing, as the writer of the former voyage gives a ſimilar account of a marine, who on being reproached by his company for a trifling theft committed in joke, made away with himſelf much about the ſame place.

Two or three days after the arrival of the ſhip a canoe came in ſight, with a family of the natives paddling between the iſles, probably gathering limpets and ſhell-fiſh. They took little or no notice of the ſhip, and kept at a diſtance; but, in leſs than a week, ſeveral other boats appeared, and ſome of the Indians ventured to come on board. They were not ſuch miſerable beings as has been repreſented. They were indeed naked, all but a ſeal ſkin thrown careleſsly round their ſhoulders, and pinned upon their breaſts with a kind of ſkewer; but they were not dejected.

Some had ornamented their heads with feathers made up in various forms; but every other part of their bodies, except their backs, was without covering, women as well as men. They bore, notwithſtanding, a very healthy appearance; and, except a continual ſhivering, which perhaps was natural to them, they made no bad figure.

They were painted of a dark kind of red or copper colour from head to foot, intermixed [311] with ſtreaks of other colours upon their arms and thighs.

Their wigwams were only temporary dwellings, made of the ſlender boughs of trees, arched over like ſo many arbours, and covered with the branches and leaves of the winter's bark tree. In theſe they make their fires, and dreſs their meat. In one of them that had been deſerted on the approach of a party of ſailors, there was the leg of a gooſe ready dreſſed, and the remains of ſome fiſh, on which, it was ſuppoſed, they had dined. Their canoes differ but little from thoſe of the other Americans: they are made of the bark of large trees, put together with great labour, and covered with ſeal-ſkins: they differ much from the canoes in the Tropical Iſlands, being very wide in proportion to their length, and having a quantity of earth in them, on which, in their fiſhing ſeaſons, they make their fires. It ſhould ſeem that theſe canoes are each the property of a ſeparate family, for in every canoe there were women and children.

The men did not expreſs either fear or wonder on coming on board: but their reaſon for hiding themſelves on ſhore ſeemed to be leſt their women and children ſhould be taken from them and carried into captivity; a dread which runs through the whole human race, let [312] their ſituation be ever ſo mean, in the place of their nativity. Their language is hoarſe and guttural.

Orders were given, that no purchaſe ſhould be made with them, without giving them clothing in exchange: but there was nothing of which they were poſſeſſed that they would not ſell; their bows and arrows, their ſpears, their fiſhing-tackle, their utenſils of every kind, all came to market. Whatever was given them to aſſuage their hunger they would eat voraciouſly; and whenever they went off from the ſhip they never failed to entertain the company with a dance.

Here the ſhip's company kept their Chriſtmas jovially; and it was not till after ſome days that they could be brought to buſineſs.

While they remained at anchor, the people on board were in no want of freſh proviſions, they found wild-fowl in ſuch abundance that numbers of them were killed and ſalted down for future uſe, and not a few kept alive, eſpecially geeſe; and of ſcurvy-graſs and wildcelery they were in no want, after the country came to be better known. It being the height of ſummer, they found meadows that might have been mowed, and the graſs made into hay; and there were many plants and flowers that were exceeding beautiful, and totally unknown to our European botaniſts.

[313]The repairs being at length compleated, and wood and water ſupplied, on the 27th of December the ſhip prepared to ſail; and on the 28th they weighed and put to ſea. Their courſe out of the bay, to which they gave the name of Chriſtmas Sound, was S. by E. and S. S. E. Its latitude 54 deg. 24 min. according to our journaliſt's reckoning; by the aſtronomer's 55 deg. 26 min. It long by the former, 289 deg. 00 min. by the latter, 289 deg. 54 min. Eaſt.

On the 29th Cape Horn, bearing N. 88 deg. Eaſt diſtance five or ſix leagues, they purſued their courſe to the N. E. by N. and N. N. E. half E. till they came off Succeſs-Bay, where the Endeavour anchored in her former voyage, and where the preſent navigators had appointed to rendezvous in caſe of ſeparation from the Adventure: they therefore hoiſted the large cutter out to make ſearch if any token had been left of that ſhip's anchoring there; but no ſuch token having been found, they returned, after cutting the ſhip's name and date of the year on a large tree adjoining to the ſtrand. While this was doing, they ſaw thirty or forty of the natives, who came out of the woods to welcome them on ſhore, one of whom the ſailors remembered. He made motions for knives, but there were ſcarce any on board. The people [314] here ſeemed rather ſtouter than thoſe about Chriſtmas Sound; but made no figure as giants.

30. They now directed their courſe to Staten's Land, in the paſſage to which the whales were ſo numerous and large that the crew thought themſelves in danger of the ſhip's being overſet by them: penguins and ſeals were likewiſe in plenty.

At half paſt nine in the morning they bore away S. E. and got cloſe under a pleaſant long iſle, which appeared to be clothed with a verdure equal to any they had yet ſeen. At half paſt ten they heard a great noiſe, like the lowing of many cattle, but ſoon found that it was the roaring of the ſea-lions that harboured upon the coaſt.

31. At half after one came too between the Eaſt ſide of the Green Iſland, and the Weſt ſide of Staten Land; diſtance about three leagues from each. About one the boats were hoiſted out, and about 40 of the crew, armed with muſkets and Amſterdam clubs, haſtened to ſhore to kill ſeals. As ſoon as the boats landed, the people on board could ſee the engagement, which was very hot ſo long as it laſted. Inſtead of ſeals they found an innumerable herd of lions and lioneſſes baſking on the beach; and in a very ſhort time they ſent the large cutter back with ſeveral old ones, [315] and above 200 young ones. At ſeven in the evening the other boats came off with another freight. Some of the old lions weighed from 700 to 800 lb. weight. The young ones are about the ſize of large bull-dogs. During the whole time of the engagement there were from 30 to 40 lions in the water cloſe by the launch, roaring, jumping, and ſtanding upright, but afraid to land. Theſe lions yield vaſt quantities of oil; but are very hard to kill, ſome of hte large lions having gone off with eight or ten balls in their heads. Some of them meaſured from eight to nine feet in length, and not leſs round the ſhoulders. Their feet, or what the ſailors call their phippers, meaſured from two feet and a half to three feet and a half in length. They have the appearance of lions as they baſk upon the roks; but when lying on the beach, they look more like flocks of ſheep, with 20 or 30 large black rams among them. By the deſcription here given of them they ſeem to differ much from thoſe found in the North Seas.—Some of the gentlemen who went up into the country ſaw bears; but time was wanting to encounter them. This iſland is entirely covered with coarſe long graſs, through which the tracks of ſea and landmonſters may be traced for many miles. Turkies, buſtards, and hawks, were ſeen upon this iſland, and ſeveral geeſe were killed upon [316] it. In the evening the boats were hoiſted in, and the people employed in aſſiſting the butcher in cutting the blubber form the lions, and caſking it up.

Jan. 1. The whole day was ſpent in killing lions, penguins, geeſe, and teals: every little cove upon the Green Iſland was covered with them. The penguins are accounted good eating; and thouſands of them were killed for that purpoſe. It is deſperate work to encounter the lions, without firſt firing two or three balls into them; for they will ſpring two or three yards at their aſſailants when they find themſelves hard preſſed.

2. While the ſhip rode in this channel the pinnace was hoiſted out to reconnoitre the Weſt coaſt of Staten Land, and brought word that they had diſcovered a ſafe harbour, in which the whole royal navy of England might anchor in ſafety, and find wood, water, and wild-fowl, ſufficient to ſupply their wants.

3. The ſhip's cooks boiled no leſs than 300 wild-fowl this day for the ſhip's company, as every one was at liberty to eat what he pleaſed. Several went upon the doctor's liſt, more it ſhould ſeem from gluttony and intemperance than from the effects of the climate.

4. Came to ſail, the weather ſine, temperate, and the ſun ſhining bright, proceeded with a briſk breeze E. S. E.

[317]5. Continued the ſame courſe the whole day and night; the ſhip's run ſeven or eight knots an hour. At noon lat. 57 deg. 11 min.

6. Courſe Eaſt.

7. Courſe N. W. probably in queſt of Roache's Land.

8. Came in ſight of great quantities of ſeaweeds. Courſe N. Sounded, but no ground.

9. Latitude at noon by obſervation 55 deg. 13 min. Cruiſing for Roache's Land. Saw ſeveral albatroſſes. Courſe E. in the morning. In the afternoon ſtood to the W. N. W. At twelve at night ſtood N. W. by. W.

10. Bore away E. N. E. At five ſteered N. E. Lat. at noon 54 deg. 38 min. Courſe E. by N. Saw ſome ſea-weeds, and a gannett. Courſe all night E. by N.

11. Still cruiſing for Roache's Land. Courſe E. N. E. Lat. at noon 54 deg. 34 min.

12. Courſe E. Latitude at noon 54 deg. 25 min. Saw a ſeal, and ſea-weeds. Courſe E. by N. half N.

13. Made ſail to the S. S. E. At twelve tacked, and ſteered N. N. E. Saw ſome birds and ſea-weeds.

14. At eight ſaw ſomething like land, or an iſland of ice. Saw great numbers of albatroſſes, and ſmall grey petterells; three Port Egmont hens, two antarctic birds, and ſome penguins, with a variety of other birds; red beaks, [318] white heads, and yellow feet. Lat. at noon 54 deg. 05 min. At four ſounded, and found ground at 18 fathom, muddy bottom. Courſe S. by E. Saw the land extending a great way to the northward of the peak, miſtaken in the morning for an ice iſland.

15. The weather hazy, attended with ſleet and ſnow, and exceſſive cold. Loſt ſight of land; but certain to be at no great diſtance from it.

16. The land bore Eaſt. It appeared amazingly lofty, mountainous, craggy, and almoſt covered with ſnow. It now ſeemed to extend farther to the eaſtward and ſouthward than the eye could carry. At twelve bore away N. N. W. The nearer they approached the land, the more rugged and craggy it appeared, differing in nothing from that of Terra del Fuego on the weſtern ſide, but in being covered with ſnow. At twelve the extremes of the land were from N. by E. half E. to N. 2 by E. half E. Latitude 54 deg. 25 min. At three ſteered through a ſtrait or paſſage three or four leagues in breadth, between ſeveral ſmall iſles and the main. In this paſſage many green patches were ſeen upon the land; and the greateſt part of the ſea coaſt was clear from ſnow. While they continued ſailing to the North Eaſtward, the land ſeemed in that direction to have no end; inſomuch that all the [319] mariners on board were overjoyed, imagining they had now found the Southern-Continent of which they came in ſearch. Having cleared the ſtrait, they ſtood E. by N. the land not above three leagues diſtant. At nine at night hove too.

17. At half after three bore away S. E. by E. Wind S. W. at four courſe E. half S. the land ſtill winding eaſtward. At ſeven hauled up S. S. E. ſeeing a fine bay to caſt anchor, ſounded in 45 fathom water, blue mud, and ſmall ſtones. At nine hoiſted out the large cutter, and went on ſhore with a ſtand of colours. Latitude 54 deg. S. long. 322 deg. 32 min. E. As ſoon as they landed, they took poſſeſſion of the country in the name of their Royal Maſter, and hoiſting an Engliſh Jack, fired three volley's of fire-arms, and chriſtened the country GEORGIA. In this bay they found an excellent harbour, had not the head of it been frozen up. The ſea fowl which ſwam in the mouth of the harbour were quite tame; but two monſters which lay on the beech were frightfully fierce. They were in their general ſhape not much unlike the ſea lions of Green-Iſland, but much larger; they killed one of them that meaſured 18 feet, and every way large in proportion; his head reſembled the head of a ſhark, his eyes were fixed in the upper part of his head, and his phippers were [320] armed with claws. He was ſhot with intent to make a drawing of him. They met with no interruption from the inhabitants, nor any thing that could invite their ſtay. At half after one the boat returned with the monſter on board, and at two they made ſail ſteering E. S. E.

[view of a high mountain]

By the courſe they ſteered, the ſhore appears to be very irregular, but in general trending to the ſouth eaſt, as far as the mountains juſt mentioned, though they coaſted it along in almoſt all directions, from the 14th of January to the 7th of February, when having loſt ſight of it for two or three days, the weather being piercing cold, and the crew but poorly clad, the captain gave orders to ſtand [322] to the eaſt. It is much to be regretted, that ſo little regard is paid by contractors, to the quality of the articles they furniſh, that few of them are intrinſically worth half what the poor men are charged for them. In this voyage, the ſhoes in particular were ſo intolerably bad, that when the rain, ſnow, or ſleet, fell upon the decks, which either one or the other did almoſt every day in this cruiſe, one might wring the ſhoes like a piece of flannel; and they were of no more ſervice in keeping the feet warm than if they had been made of woollen rags; for the leaſt moiſture penetrated the very ſoles. The reader may judge then how uncomfortable it muſt be for poor men to ſtand for hours together, with wet feet, in ſuch rigorous climates.

Beſides the horrid appearance the different views of the land exhibited, and the workings, and bearings of the ſhip, nothing remarkable happened in the long cruiſe, of which we have been ſpeaking, except that on the third of February, three or four days before they left the land, they paſſed through a portion of ſea, the water of which was as white as milk; this was about the 59th degree of latitude, and at no great diſtance from the tow'ring mountains already noticed: They ſounded, ſuppoſing the ſhip in ſhallow water; but found no bottom. The water, when taken up in a bucket, and compared with other water, retained none of [323] its milky colour, but ſhowed in every reſpect like the ordinary ſea-water. This, however, is not the firſt obſervation of the kind; others have noticed the like phoenomenon.

When the ſhip took her departure from this continent, February 7, her longitude was 341 deg. E. and her lat. 58 deg. S. nearly, and on that day ſhe compleated her circuit round the globe, being then in the longitude of the Cape of Good Hope, from whence they ſet out. In this latitude ſhe continued to ſail without any material deviation till the 15th of February, when the captain changed the courſe, ſteering a little more to the northward, in ſearch of Bouvet's-Land, and traverſed from the 57th to the 54th degree, till the 19th, when in latitude 54 deg. they fell in with many ſigns of land, but next day all thoſe ſigns diſappeared. They then bore away E. by N. deviating, however, in many directions as ſigns and circumſtances aroſe, till on the 13th of March, in lat. 41 deg. 57 min. Long. 24 deg. E. they began to cruiſe for two iſlands, ſaid to have been ſeen nearly in that ſituation; but, not ſucceeding, they continued their courſe to the Cape of Good-Hope. In their way, however, a quarrel aroſe between three of the principal officers, and the ſhip's cooks, which was not reconciled without very ſerious conſequences. Thoſe three gentlemen, upon ſome occaſion or [324] other, entered the cook-room with naked knives, and with oaths, unbecoming their character, ſwore they would take away the lives of the firſt who dared to affront them. It ſeems they had formerly met with ſome rebuffs for too much frequenting the cook's apartments, which had hitherto paſſed in joke; but now a regular comp [...]t was laid before the captain, of their unwarrantable behaviour, and of [...] men were in of their lives; [...] complaint the captain was under [...] of enquiring; and, upon finding [...], of confining the offenders in irons. While they were in this ſituation, the articles of war being read, it was found that the offence was of ſuch a nature as hardly to be determined without reference to a ccourt martial, in order to which the two who appeared moſt culpable, were continued priſoners upon parole, and the third cleared.

In a day or two after this buſineſs had engroſſed the captain's attention, he called the ſhip's crew together, and, after recounting the particulars of the voyage, the hardſhips they had met with, the fatigues they had undergone, and the chearfulneſs which they had ſhewn in the diſcharge of their duty; he gave them to underſtand, how much more it would recommend them to the notice of the Lords Commiſſioners of the Admiralty, if they would preſerve [325] a profound ſilence in the ports they had yet to paſs, with regard to the courſes they had [...], and the diſcoveries they had made, and after their return home till they had received permiſſion ſo to do; requiring at the ſame time, all thoſe officers who had kept journals to deliver them into his cuſtody, to be ſealed up in a cheſt, not to be opened till delivered to their lordſhips at the proper office. This requeſt was chearfully complied with by every commiſſioned officer: but ſome who had kept memorials merely by way of exerciſe, and to qualify themſelves for future preferment, not thinking their performances perfect enough to be laid before perſonages of ſuch diſtinguiſhed rank, reſerved their labours to gratify the curioſity of their friends. Of this kind is the journal now ſubmitted to the public, which, however defective in point of intelligence, is true in what relates to the conduct of the voyage throughout. It were of little moment to acquaint the reader with the reaſons which prevailed with the journaliſt to ſuffer his firſt imperfect eſſay to fall into the hands of a bookſeller; let it ſuffice to aſſure him, that the facts are true, how uncourtly ſoever they may be expreſſed.

They had now been near 40 days in their paſſage from Georgia to the Cape of Good Hope without ſeeing land; and before they arrived on the coaſt of Africa they fell in with [326] two ſhips ſtanding W. S. W. without being able to ſpeak with either. This was on the 15th of March 1775.

On the 16th they came in ſight of land, but at a great diſtance.

On the 17th, five ſail came in ſight, and one catching a breeze, bore down to hail them. They hoiſted out the great cutter, and ſent an officer on board for news; who, upon his return, brought the melancholy account of the boat's crew of the Adventure being killed and eaten by the cannibals of New Zealand. The ſhip from which they received this intelligence was a Dutch Eaſt-Indiaman from Bengal, who upon being told that they had been in no European port ſince November 1772, offered them whatever they ſtood in need of, either for repairs or refreſhments: but being in no immediate want, they very politely declined the obligation. This day was Friday with the Dutchman, but Saturday with our navigators, having gained a day by running to the eaſtward. The land they firſt made proved Cape Legullas.

On the 18th they ſpoke with an Engliſh ſhip, the Free Briton, Capt. Norton, from China. She had been fourteen or fifteen months out, and gave an account, which, however, was not true, that the Aurora's people had riſen and killed the captain, officers, and ſuperintendants, and that they had turned pirates, and had taken two Dutch ſhips of [327] conſiderable value; that ſeveral Indiamen had been loſt, one in particular on the iſland of Johanna, part of whoſe crew they had on board; and that two or three king's ſhips that ſailed from India were on their return home.

In their paſſage from Cape Legullas to Table-bay they met with ſeveral heavy gales, in which their maſts, ſails, and rigging, being much decayed, ſuffered conſiderably.

On the 20th they came in ſight of Table-Land, on which day the captain was pleaſed to forgive the officers under arreſt, upon their ſubmiſſion.

On the 21ſt they moored ſhip in Table-bay, in ſight of many ſhips of different nations, where they ſoon heard the deplorable ſtory of the Adventure's boats crew confirmed, with the addition of a falſe report of the loſs of a French ſhip upon the ſame iſland, with the total deſtructin of the captain and crew, propagated, no doubt, by the Adventure's people, to render an act of ſavage barbarity that hardly would admit of aggravation ſtill more horrible.

Here they ſtaid till April the 27th to repair the ſhip and recruit their ſtores; and in the mean time the captain wrote letters to the Admiralty, with an account of their proceedings, and ſafe arrival at the Cape, which were ſent home, together with the journals of the officers, by the Ceres Indiaman, who arrived in England on the third of July laſt.

[328]At the Cape, the curioſity of all nations was excited to learn the ſucceſs of their diſcoveries, and in proportion to the earneſtneſs of the ſollicitations, wherewith the common men were preſſed, by foreign inquiſitors, they took care to gratify them with wonderful relations. Hence many ſtrange ſtories were circulated abroad, before it was known at home, whether the ſhip had periſhed at ſea, or was upon her return to Europe.

The captain, however, loſt no time in putting all things in a condition to complete the voyage; and the Dutton-Indiaman being in readineſs to put to ſea, they took their departure together on the 27th of April, as has already been ſaid. On the 15th of May they arrived at St. Helena; on the 21ſt they again proceeded in company, but parted at Aſcenſion the 28th, the Reſolution having touched there, to take in turtle, while the Dutton continued her courſe. On the 11th of June they croſſed the line; on the 14th of July they anchored at Fyal, one of the Weſtern Iſles; and on the 31ſt of July 1775, arrived at Spithead; all in good health, having loſt only one man by ſickneſs, and three by accidents, in all this long and hazardous voyage.

FINIS.
Notes
*
See Dr. Hawkeſworth's dedication to the king.
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Citation Suggestion for this Object
TextGrid Repository (2020). TEI. 5274 Journal of the Resolution s voyage in 1772 1773 1774 and 1775 On discovery to the southern hemisphere Also a journal of the Adventure s voyage in the years 1772 1773 and 1774 Illustr. University of Oxford Text Archive. . https://hdl.handle.net/21.T11991/0000-001A-5E05-6