A LETTER, &c.

I Have not been able before this time to ſend you a letter which would be ſatisfactory to you; and I am very appre⯑henſive the hurry of removing to this place, and putting things in a little order, will render this very incomplete.

With reſpect to the Voyage, I muſt ad⯑viſe all my friends who deſign to under⯑take it, to expect it will be attended with many uncomfortable circumſtances. Were I to croſs the Atlantic again with a party [2]of my friends, I would moſt certainly lay in my own ſtock of proviſions, and have, in a great degree, the ſuperintendance of their cooking; as the enjoyment of the food de⯑pends fully as much on the mode of pre⯑paring it for the meals, as upon its good⯑neſs. I do aſſure you, that, although I was not ſea-ſick once during the voyage, my ſtomach was rendered ſo delicate by the ſtate of the meat when put on the table, that I ſcarcely made one good meal. All ſorts of fruit are moſt highly grateful, particularly to the ſick. The very ſmall variety which is found on board ſhip, makes it of vaſt conſequence to have a pleaſant company, and moſt of all a cheer⯑ful, good-humoured captain, who will contribute more to moderate the tediouſ⯑neſs of the voyage, than all other circum⯑ſtances put together; and this for many obvious reaſons; but, particularly, becauſe he will ſatisfy the minds of thoſe, who, [3]being unuſed to the ſea, will be perpe⯑tually imagining danger where it does not exiſt. Books of the moſt trifling kind are the moſt uſeful: thoſe which require much attention cannot be read. I have ſuch an idea of the ſafeneſs of the voyage, in a good ſhip, managed by a captain of good ſenſe, that I ſhould have no apprehenſion of danger in undertaking it. I ſhould dread nothing but feelings which are al⯑ways excited by great tediouſneſs and want of variety; the unpleaſantneſs of which it is not in my power to deſcribe. The ſea⯑ſickneſs is by no means to be feared; in general it paſſes off in a few days; and where it continues, it is rather uſeful than otherwiſe.

On your arrival at Philadelphia you are not to expect accommodations at taverns as in England. The ſitting rooms are public; and you are expected on the day of your arrival to procure yourſelf lod⯑gings. [4]The lodgings are exceedingly ex⯑travagant, from ſix to ten dollars each perſon per week: the table but mode⯑rate; and the beverage, porter, or rum-and-water. Houſe-rent in Philadelphia is much higher than in Briſtol; houſe-keep⯑ing much dearer; the wages of the moſt ignorant ſervants not leſs than a dollar a week; and theſe very difficultly to be procured.

When I left England, you know, my in⯑clinations led me to the projecled ſettle⯑ment on the Loyal Sock Creek, in the north-weſt part of Pennſylvania. How⯑ever, as I thought it poſſible we had re⯑ceived our accounts of this land from per⯑ſons who were in ſome degree intereſted, you recollect I was not very ſanguine re⯑ſpecting it; but had reſolved to examine for myſelf into the ſtate of the land in this country. When we arrived at Philadel⯑phia, we were informed the ſcheme was [5]given up; which diſappointed us all very much. The ſtate of the caſe was this:— Mr. C. when he was here before, and other gentlemen, were of opinion, that it would be very deſirable for Engliſh emi⯑grants to have an aſylum in this country, where it might be in their power to ſup⯑port themſelves and families, upon land which would be ſold at ſo cheap a rate as to be within the reach of perſons of the ſmalleſt property. Mr. R. had made a purchaſe of a conſiderable tract of land near the Loyal Sock; Mr. P. had made a ſimilar one; but, in order to render the plan complete, it was neceſſary to add ſo much more to what they had purchaſed as would raiſe the whole amount to about 300,000 acres; leſs than which they thought would not be ſufficient for an Engliſh ſet⯑tlement. Mr. C. and the other gentlemen applied to Meſſrs. Morris and Nicholſon, who are the principal proprietors of land [6]in that ſtate, and who were in poſſeſſion of all the land adjoining the purchaſed tracts. A contract: was entered into for the quan⯑tity of land which was wanted, on con⯑dition it ſhould prove, upon examination, to be, what they ſaid it was, good land: This was the ſtage of the buſineſs when Mr. C. returned to England; and upon this he acted; taking it for granted no⯑thing could occur to fruſtrate the ſcheme. However, after his departure, Meſſrs. P. and H. with ſurveyors, &c. went over the land, and found a great part of it ſtoney and bad. Meſſrs. H. returned to Phila⯑delphia exceedingly diſſatisfied, and gave up the ſcheme. But as many thouſand acres were already in the poſſeſſion of Meſſrs. R. and P. which would accommo⯑date a great number of families, and could be had at prime coſt, which was one dollar per acre, ſome friends joined me in think⯑ing it deſirable to viſit theſe tracts; as well [7]for the purpoſe of judging for ourſelves reſpecting them, as of having an oppor⯑tunity of examining the moſt eligible ſitua⯑tions in Pennſylvania, which we were in⯑formed would preſent themſelves to us in the courſe of this journey.

Having ſtayed a few days in Philadel⯑phia for the purpoſe of purchaſing a horſe each, we ſet off on the 16th of October. We travelled near the Schuylkill, through Norris-Town, Reading, Hamburgh, and over the Blue Mountains to Sunbury; which was a journey of about 130 miles. We ſaw a great deal of very excellent land, and much exceedingly bad. Near the towns the price is from ſix to fifteen pounds per acre,^* with improvements, ſuch as a wooden houſe, barn, and a few acres cleared and fenced. At a conſiderable diſtance from the Schuylkill and from the towns, it may [8]be had from nine ſhillings to three or four pounds. The produce of the land is not readily taken to market; the greater part of it having no navigable river near it, and the Schuylkill itſelf being, as yet, imper⯑fectly ſo.

The ſerſations which I every moment experienced from the view of ſo beautiful a country, were infinitely more delightful than any Engliſh proſpect ever produced in me. There was ſomething ſo peculiarly ſtriking and grand in the appearance of a country conſiſting of ſmall hills and pro⯑digious woods, with here and there a cul⯑tivated ſpot, that I, who have never been very guilty of enthuſiaſm, felt what I ſup⯑poſe people of taſte commonly call rap⯑tures. But whether this be the proper term for my feelings muſt be left to per⯑ſons of refinement to determine. I dare not be poſitive.

[9]For the two laſt days, except within a few miles of Sunbury, we ſaw ſcarcely any thing but woods; and thoſe of little value, either for timber or ſoil, being ſo diſtant. from a market. Sunbury is a pretty, popu⯑lous town, on the banks of the Suſque⯑hanna: it has ſeveral good taverns. About a mile from Sunbury is the ferry by which we paſſed to Northumberland. This town is ſituated much more pleaſantly than any town I ever ſaw. It lies exactly in what. are called the Forks of the Suſquehanna; that is, where that river divides into the weſt and north-eaſt branches. The land gently riſes from the river till it forms a ſmall hill; the town on this account being a good deal elevated above the ſurface of the water, gives a view of the two branches of the grand Suſquehanna below them, and of a diviſion of the north-eaſt branch, pro⯑duced by a large Iſ;land which is ſituated near the Forks. It has alſo in view the [10]whole of the town of Sunbury, and of the hills on the other ſide of both branches of the river; the appearance of which, con⯑ſiſting of various kinds of trees, but parti⯑cularly of pine, is uncommonly romantic. The town is not a goad one; the houſes are moſtly built of wood. We viſited Dr. Prieſtley, who rents a wooden houſe in this place. The Doctor was in very good ſpirits: his appearance is conſiderably younger than when I ſaw him before; which effect perhaps is produced by his being without a wig. He rejoices much ſtrong affection for it, on account of his friends there; and hinted to us a deſire to viſit it after the troubles in Europe are over. He was much diſappointed in find⯑ing P. had changed his coat, as he had provided an unitarian chapel for him at New-York : he is now at a loſs for one who has zeal enough to undertake it. The [11]Doctor has made a purchaſe of land ad⯑joining the town, upon which he is build⯑ing a houſe.

It being our wiſh as ſoon as poſſible to viſit the Loyal Sock woods, we furniſhed ourſelves with additional blankets, provi⯑ſion, &c. and ſtarted after a delightful ride on the weſt branch, through the Chiliſ⯑quaque valley. We reached Muncy, from whence we intended to ſally forth into the woods; but heavy rain coming on, and continuing for many hours, rendered it unſafe to ſleep on the ground. The land in that neighbourhood is good, and the average price of it nearly the ſame as of what we had before ſeen.

Being deſirous of ſeeing a new ſettle⯑ment, to enable us to decide, on our return from the woods, whether we would ven⯑ture to commence one ourſelves, we were informed that there was a French one on the north-eaſt branch of the Suſquehanna, [12]which had been begun exactly one year; the diſtance of which from Northumber⯑land was 150 miles. Upon this journey we immediately determined, and ordered a guide to meet us at the ſettlement, in order to conduct us through the Loyal Sock woods. We ſet off on the north-eaſt branch, and in five days arrived at the ſettlement. In the courſe of this journey we met with much worſe and more dan⯑gerous roads than I ever ſaw. The accom⯑modations alſo, with reſpect to ſleeping, wretched indeed. Eating, as in every part of Pennſylvania, pretty good: excellent veniſon often preſenting itſelf three times a day. It was on this journey I firſt ſlept on the floor, on ſtraw, in the ſame room with all the family, in a log-houſe, much expoſed to air, after a complete wetting and great fatigue, and with no other cor⯑dial than a good fire at my feet, and a draught of milk and water. On this route [13]alſo we loſt our way in the woods at night, in a violent ſhower of rain; on which oc⯑caſion our terror was great, having no guide, and no proſpect of any thing but wandering amongſt wild beaſts the whole of the night. The only reſource we had, was for us all to join in a loud outcry, hoping it might be heard by perſons who would lead us into the right road, which very happily ſucceeded. On the next morn⯑ing we reached the town of the ſettlement, called French-Town, upon the banks of the Suſquehanna. This ſettlement is ſituated (as you may ſee in Howel's map of Penn⯑ſylvania) in a bend of the river, a little below a place called Standing-Stone. It was eſtabliſhed by ſeveral wealthy French men, moſt of whom had belonged to the conſtituent aſſembly of France; ſuch as Noailles, Talon, Blacon, Tallerand, &c. who have ſpared no expence to accommo⯑date the ſettlers with all kinds of con⯑veniencies; [14]and have, by their prepara⯑tions, removed the principal difficulties in the way of ſettling in ſuch a ſituation. The town has already two very good taverns, one kept by Captain (formerly Baron) Beaulieu; about forty houſes, all of wood, ſome very well built; particularly one belonging to Talon, which has ſix⯑teen very good rooms, and one very large one, elegantly furniſhed. At this houſe people find welcome on their arrival. Du⯑ring the three days we ſpent in the town, we were often invited by Blacon to viſit the party of French ladies and gentlemen who were there. We found them ſenſible and polite people, and full of mirth and gaiety. We were ſo much pleaſed with them all, that we felt a degree of prepoſſeſſion in favour of the ſettlement. The extent of the land is about a million of acres; the greateſt part of which is exceedingly rich and good. There are already between [15]three and four hundred families; and their progreſs in clearing lands and making roads is really aſtoniſhing. The original price of the land was one dollar per acre; it is now bought at ſix ſhillings. The ſettlers are called ariſtocrats by the French re⯑publicans in Philadelphia; but be that as it may, ariſtocracy in an American ſettle⯑ment cannot long ſurvive: theſe people have already given up their titles.

From French-Town we ſet off for the Loyal-Sock creek, near the waters of which we pitched our tents three nights. We built our tabernacles of boughs and leaves; and the weather being fine, we kept our⯑ſelves ſufficiently warm by means of a pro⯑digious fire at our feet. We felt very few apprehenſions on account of wild beaſts, as they are very rarely to be met with, and are perfectly harmleſs, being terrified by the appearance even of a child.

[16]After encountering very important diffi⯑culties in this route, from the north-eaſt to the weſt branch of the Suſquehanna, where was nothing but trees and wild beaſts, we again reached the tavern at Muncy, and at length arrived at that tract of land which it was our object to ſee. Here we reflected upon the diſtance from market, upon a ſtate of ſecluſion from the reſt of mankind, and upon ſome other circum⯑ſtances which appeared to us inſuperable difficulties in the way of our commencing a ſettlement. The timber alſo, ſo far from being an object, is ſo much in the way on account of the prodigious bulk and num⯑ber of the trees, as to render deſtruction by fire the only mode of getting rid of them. The trees, which conſiſt princi⯑pally of hemlock, a ſpecies of pine, are from nine to twenty-ſeven feet in circum⯑ference, and one hundred to one hundred and twenty in height; the oak, the hic⯑cory, [17]and the cheſnut, are not much leſs. Beſides, at the commencement of a ſettle⯑ment, it would be neceſſary for families to reſide in ſome town during the clearing and cultivation of the land; unleſs, like the New-Englanders, they had been edu⯑cated in theſe difficulties; or, like the French, they had the greater part of them previ⯑ouſly removed. But, I muſt own, I ſhould have been effectually prevented from ſet⯑tling there, merely by the improbability of being joined by a ſufficient number of companions. Thus determined with re⯑ſpect to the Loyal Sock, we returned once more to Northumberland.

As an Engliſh ſettlement was now out of the queſtion, it became neceſſary to di⯑rect our attention to ſome other plan of ſettling; and it appeared the moſt deſirable to look out for ſituations which were al⯑ready in ſome degree inhabited. It is pretty generally underſtood, that what are called [18]cultivated lands, (American agriculture being very bad) are exhauſted lands. It was, therefore, our object to find out ſuch as were partially cleared and cultivated. The neighbourhood of the Forks of the Suſquehanna appeared very eligible, on account of the healthfulneſs of its ſitu⯑ation, and its proximity to ſo large a river. We then employed ourſelves in examining the tracts near the town of Northumberland. The land is in part cleared on both branches of the river, within the diſtance of eight or ten miles from the town. Within about two miles of the town it is not to be bought under four or five pounds per acre. At a greater diſtance, from three to two pounds. The whole of this land is exceedingly good, and fit both for corn and grazing, particularly the latter, on account of its being on the river. The land at the diſtance of about two miles from the town, and the ſame [19]from the river, in an uncleared ſtate, may be bought for a guinea per acre. The ready market both for wood and pro⯑duce makes this a very deſirable ſitua⯑tion. The mere article of wood, within three miles of the town, will more than pay all the expences of clearing. This is a very populous neighbourhood.

The expences of this ſituation would be nearly theſe: 100 acres (which it ſeems are ſufficient) at 3l. per acre, 300l.—100l. or leſs to be advanced at firſt, and the remainder in ſmall ſums, paying legal intereſt: but to thoſe who can advance the whole, conſider⯑able allowance is made. Labour is pro⯑cured at about two ſhillings a day; but labourers are ſcarce. The houſe and barn would coſt about 200l.; and the ſtock, at firſt, about 100l. Families, while the houſe, &c. are preparing, might be accommodated with houſes, or lodgings, at Northumber⯑land, at a very moderate rate. Having [20]gained this information, we loſt no time in ſetting off again for Philadelphia, with a view to aſcertain, as ſoon as poſſible, the price of land in other ſituations. Having heard much of the land in Lancaſter county, we returned that way; but we were ſoon ſatisfied reſpecting the land in that and the other counties through which we paſſed; as the price of it was from ſix to twenty pounds per acre, even at a con⯑ſiderable diſtance from the Suſquehanna. We reached Philadelphia a fortnight ſince, undetermined where to ſettle; but, how⯑ever, highly delighted with our journey. It was a great ſatisfaction to us to have aſcertained the value of lands in thoſe parts of Pennſylvania, which are moſt eli⯑gible on account of climate and ſoil.

Having given you a ſort of hiſtory of my tour, you will of courſe expect my opinion reſpecting the country, &c. and alſo an account of my own intentions.

[21]You perceive the Back Lands, as they are called, recommend themſelves by the cheapneſs of their purchaſe, and the great probability there is of their being, in the courſe of time, of conſiderable value; as all the Pennſylvania lands are now ſo rapidly riſing in price, that within the laſt two years they have increaſed almoſt one-third. The difficulties, however, in the way of ſettling in ſo remote a ſituation, are ſo great, as effectually to deter me from un⯑dertaking it. The next reſource is to the land in peopled parts of the ſtate, the price of which, very highly cultivated and well built upon, is ſo much too high, as not to be at all an object of my attention: the price of 200 acres of ſuch a deſcription is from 2 to 4,000l. It appears that the average price of good land, with little or no improvements, is about 3l. per acre. This is about the price which I think Europeans, unaccuſtomed to much labour, [22]fatigue, and ſecluſion from the world, muſt give for that land and that ſituation which will render them comfortable and happy: I adviſe none of my friends to think of any thing elſe. I am alſo decidedly of opinion, from what I have ſeen, and from the enquiries I have made, that Pennſyl⯑vania is the moſt healthful ſtate; and that Northumberland is by far to be preferred to all the other counties of Pennſylvania; as it is more healthful, and better ſituated with reſpect to the whole of the United States. I have no doubt that the land near the town of Northumberland is in⯑ferior to none.

Having given you this ſtatement, you will perceive whither my inclinations lead me. But I have not yet entirely made up my mind. I do ſincerely aſſure you, I have found America infinitely ſuperior to my ex⯑pectations. The government, you know, is not ſtrictly republican; yet it is ſo ad⯑mirably [23]adminiſtered, as moſt ſucceſsfully to conſult the happineſs of the people. There have been, it is true, of late, ſome ſerious inſurrections in the weſtern coun⯑ties of Pennſylvania, on account of an exciſe tax upon whiſkey, the beverage of the country, which have been happily quelled; but which, I hope, will lead to the repeal and the prevention of all indirect taxes. The United States have alſo been lately at war with the Indians; with the circumſtances of which buſineſs, I believe, few in England are acquainted; and, therefore, the United States have generally been ſuppoſed to be the aggrieved party. But you will judge whether they were or not. At the time when the Britiſh go⯑verned this country, the line of ſeparation between their property and that of the Indians was formed by the weſtern waters; that is, the Ohio and Allegany rivers. The Indians having, at that time, much more [24]land than it was probable they would ever want, a treaty was made between them and the Britiſh, in which a pre-emption right to that land was ſecured to the Britiſh; who, previous to the revolution, made no uſe of it. At the end of the American war, however, the Britiſh, in their treaty with the United States, guaranteed them the pre-emption right which the Indians had enſured to the Britiſh by their treaty. In conſequence of this, many ſettlements have been formed on theſe waters under the protection of this government. But the Indians conſidered that the Britiſh could, upon no juſt principle, transfer the right from themſelves to any others; and moleſted the ſettlers to ſuch a degree as to make it neceſſary for them to call upon this government for redreſs and protection. The United States immediately went to war with the Indians: the conſequence was a treaty, by which they guaranteed the ſame [25]right to the Americans. It is, however, certain that the Britiſh did inſtigate the Indians to this buſineſs, and did encourage them, by means of ſupplies of various kinds, to perſevere in the war.

Although civil liberty is very great in this country, political parties run pretty high. The Federaliſt party have much the ſame diſpoſition as the Court party in England: however, the Anti-federaliſts are too numerous and ſtrong to ſuffer any en⯑croachments on the liberties of the people. Both, however, equally rejoice in the ſuc⯑ceſſes of the French.

The climate of this country is infinitely ſuperior to that of England. We have had almoſt uniformly fine weather ſince we arrived, which was on the 10th of Octo⯑ber. Such clearneſs of the atmoſphere I never ſaw before. And I have felt, what Dr. Prieſtley told me he had conſtantly ex⯑perienced, a peculiar ſtate of the air, which [26]has invariably kept my ſpirits higher and more comfortable than I can deſcribe. This effect we have all felt. Indeed I have good reaſon for thinking the air healthful, for I have not had the leaſt attack of my complaint ſince my arrival.

We know nothing here of religious per⯑ſecution, the moſt dreadful of all evils; as religion, I mean ſuperſtition, is not the favourite purſuit of America; nor is it often the ſubject of converſation.

The American people are very civil, provided you lay aſide European import⯑ance. So much equality and real inde⯑pendence I never expected to ſee. But the European, who thinks he ſhall have more eaſe in this country than in Europe, will be moſt dreadfully diſappointed; as ſubor⯑dination is ſcarcely known here. We are, conſequently, obliged to do much for our⯑ſelves. I wiſh not to ſee any of my friends here who would not be pleaſed with this [27]ſtate of things; as I think they are more happy where they are: for my own part, I like it.

The Americans, it muſt be acknow⯑ledged, do not exhibit thoſe flights of genius which are found in England; but I am ſure, as a body, the people of England, in the ſame purſuits, have not half their in⯑formation or good ſenſe.

In Philadelphia the expences are much greater than in Briſtol. They are nearly theſe in the towns at the diſtance of twenty or thirty miles from Philadelphia:—houſe⯑rent one-third dearer than in England: ſervants wages 3s. per week: beef, mutton, and poultry 4d. per pound: pork 5d.: ba⯑con and cheeſe 5½d.: freſh butter 13½d.: ſalt butter 11d.: loaf-ſugar 14d.: beſt brown ſugar 7¼d.: flour 3½d.: bread 2½d.: eggs 13½d. per doz.: wearing apparel of all kinds, one-third dearer than in England: mahogany and other wooden goods, about [28]the ſame price as there: earthen ware and glaſs at leaſt three times as high: tin ware as dear again: feathers 2s. 8¼d. per pound: wood, which is the article uſed, makes firing twice as dear as in Briſtol: French-brandy from 5s. 6d. to 7s. per gall.: rum from 3s. to 5s.: and whiſkey, which is a moſt ex⯑cellent liquor, from 1s. 6d. to 3s.: apple⯑whiſkey about the ſame price: potatoes 14d. per buſhel: other vegetables much higher than in England: and all articles of luxury very conſiderably dearer. I muſt obſerve, that the articles which are the produce of this country are about one-third cheaper, about 100 or 130 miles from Philadelphia, than at the diſtance I have mentioned. At Northumberland families may board for between two and three dollars each perſon per week.

You ſee from this account, that people are much deceived who imagine the expen⯑ces of houſe-keeping in America are low. [29]It is impoſſible to be upon a footing with the people here, without being engaged in ſome buſineſs; every buſineſs is valuable, and none deſpiſed; on the contrary, the very appearance of idleneſs and want of employment is contemptible.

It follows from what I have ſaid, that perſons coming into this country with a view to ſettle, will be ſubject to conſiderable expences during the time they are ſeeking for a ſituation; as well as before they re⯑ceive any produce from their farm, if agri⯑culture be their object. Theſe two im⯑portant inconveniencies would be obviated by commiſſioning any friend who may be on the ſpot to act for them. By theſe means they would have a place immediately to reſort to, and the land might be pro⯑ductive as ſoon as they arrive. Upon this plan they would not be precluded from changing their ſituation whenever they thought proper; as, according to the pre⯑ſent [30]riſe of lands in price, they would be ſo far from ſuffering any loſs, ſhould they be diſpoſed to ſell, that there is almoſt a cer⯑tainty they would put money into their pockets; at the ſame time that their land produces enough to defray the expences of looking about them. There would be an⯑other advantage, which to me is not tri⯑fling, they would have a much greater op⯑portunity of ſettling near their friends.

With reſpect to the fertility of Kentucky, we have been juſtly informed in England; but I need not give you a ſtronger proof of its ineligibility than that I lately ſaw a letter from Mr. T. of Lexington, in which he ſays the heat is ſo intenſe as to oblige him to leave it for Pennſylvania, as ſoon as his engagements will permit.

The Geneſee has good land in many parts; in an uncleared ſtate from two to three dollars per acre; but it is generally unhealthful, being much infeſted with in⯑termittents, [31]and too diſtant from the large towns.

With reſpect to our ſafe arrival in Ame⯑rica, we have reaſon to rejoice, as our friends, whom we were to have accom⯑panied, have been taken into France, which muſt be attended with much inconvenience. We have reaſon to expect them ſoon in America; as aſſurances of their intentions to reſide here have been ſent by the French ambaſſador to the French government, and alſo by Dr. P.