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A TOUR IN WALES.

MDCCLXXIII

CAERGWRLE CASTLE

LONDON, Printed by Henry Hughes. MDCCLXXVIII.

ADVERTISEMENT.

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THESE home-travels are the firſt part of an account of my own country; and were actually performed in the year mentioned in the title page. The world juſtly loves the reality; therefore, this is mentioned to ſatisfy the public, that they are not formed out of tours undertaken at different periods.

THESE make of themſelves a complete tour of the tamer parts of our country. In a future volume, the wild and romantic ſcenery will be preſented, intermixed with the rich vallies ſo frequently interſperſed. To this will be added an Appendix, containing the ſubjects referred to in this volume, with variety of other matter. I implore the aid of my countrymen to aſſiſt me in the attempt; and to favor me with the neceſſary materials. They will ſee, that great part of Denbighſhire, and all parts of the four remaining counties of our principality, are ſtill to be deſcribed. My frequent [ii] journies through them, render me a tolerable maſter of their topography. I look up to my friends for hiſtory and anecdote latent among their papers; or references to our writers, leaſt any facts lodged in books might eſcape my memory.

AMONG the gentlemen I am chiefly indebted to for information reſpecting the preſent work, I cannot paſs unthanked:

  • PHILIP YORKE Eſq of Erddig;
  • JOHN MYTTON Eſq of Halſton:
  • THOMAS MOSTYN Eſq of the houſe of Trelacre;
  • PETER DAVIES Eſq of Broughton;
  • KENRICK EYTON Eq of Eyton;
  • PAUL PANTON Eſq of Bagilt;
  • LLOYD KENYON Eſq of Greddington;
  • Mr. ROGER KENYON of Ceſn;

TO OWEN BRERETON Eſq I owe the loan of the curious antiquities found in his eſtate near Flint, which are engraven in the plates viii. and ix.

[iii]TO RICHARD WILLIAMS Eſq of Vron, I am highly obliged for his poetical tranſlations, marked R. W. and for the elegant verſion of the ode on Owen Glyndwr, to which that mark is omitted.

TO RICHARD MORRIS Eſq of the navy office, I owe much general information; and am particularly indebted to him for the correction of the preſs. Mr. HAWKER of the cuſtom houſe Cheſter, favored me with a particular account of the commerce of that city.

THE reverend Mr. EDWARDS, rector of Llanvechan, favored me with ſome excellent accounts of the pariſhes of Oſweſtry, Sellatyn, and Hops.

I RECEIVED ſeveral hiſtorical facts reſpecting the pariſh of Whittington, from the reverend Mr. ROBERTS, rector of the pariſh.

THE reverend Mr. JOHN PRICE, public librarian, and the reverend Mr. JOHN JONES, fellow of Jeſus college [iv] Oxford, were indefatigable in furniſhing me with extracts from the manuſcripts of the univerſity.

As due, I muſt repeat my thanks to the reverend Mr. JOHN LLOYD, rector of Nnanerch, my conſtant companion in theſe excurſions, for variety of information, which his great knowlege of our antient language qualified him to do, to my ſingular advantage.

MR. WILKINSON, painter in Cheſter, obliged me with many materials relative to that city.

To Mr. CALVELY land ſurveyor of the ſame city, I owe ſome elegant plans, which will appear in a future volume.

THE drawings marked MOSES GRIFFITH, are the performances of a worthy ſervant, whom I keep for that purpoſe. The candid will excuſe any little imperfections they may find in them; as they are the works of an untaught genius, drawn from the moſt remote and obſcure [v] parts of North Wales. Thoſe that wiſh to anticipate the views in the intended progreſs I am to make through the remaining counties, may ſatisfy themſelves by the purchaſe of the late publications of the admirable Mr. PAUL. SANDBY,*, in whoſe labors fidelity and elegance are united.

THOMAS PENNANT.

PLATES.

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  • Frontiſpiece, CAERGWRLE CASTLE.
  • I. MAEN Y CHWYNFAN Page 12
  • II. Two Plants Page 19
  • III. Whiff Flounder Page 20
  • IV. BASINGWERK Abby Page 24
  • V. Another View Page 26
  • VI. ST. WENEFREDE'S Well Page 28
  • VII. FLINT Caſtle Page 42
  • VIII. ROMAN Antiquities Page 70
  • IX. ROMAN Antiquities Page 72
  • X. Tombs at NORTHOP Page 84
  • XI. HAWARDEN Caſtle Page 100
  • XII. Chief Juſtice GLYNNE Page 102
  • XIII. ROMAN Gate. OLD OSWESTRY, p. 258. Page 110
  • XIV. Veſtibule of the Chapter-houſe at CHESTER Page 177
  • XV. Chapter-houſe Page 178
  • XVI. HOLT Caſtle Page 205
  • XVII. Plan of ditto Page 212
  • XVIII. Coffin-lids at BANCOR Page 224
  • XIX. ANGOLA Vulture Page 228
  • XX. HALSTON Page 232
  • XXI. Sir JOHN OWEN Page 263
  • XXII. CHIRK Caſtle Page 270
  • XXIII. CASTELL DINAS BRAN Page 279
  • XXIV. VALLE CRUCIS Abby Page 369
  • XXV. VALLE CRUCIS Abby Page 372
  • XXVI. Pillar of ELISDG Page 373

THE TOUR IN NORTH WALES, MDCCLXXIII.

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I NOW ſpeak of my native country, celebrated in our earlieſt hiſtory for its valour and tenacity of its liberty; for the ſtand it made againſt the Romans; for its ſlaughter of the legions*; and for the ſubjection of the nation by Agricola, who did not dare to attempt his Caledonian expedition, and leave behind him unconquered ſo tremendous an enemy.

WHEN our firſt invaders landed in Great Britain, North Wales was poſſeſſed by the Ordovices, a name derived from the language of the country, ſignifying the ſituation; being almoſt entirely bounded by the river Deva, or the modern Dee, and another river of the name of Dyvi . The one flows into the Iriſh ſea below Cheſter, the other into the ſame ſea on the borders of Cardiganſhire.

THE ſpirit which the people ſhewed at the beginning, did not deſert them to the laſt. Notwithſtanding they were obliged [2] to ſubmit to the reſiſtleſs power of the Romans, they never fell a prey to the enervating charms of luxury, as the other nations of this iſland did. They never, with womaniſh invocations, requeſted the aid of the deſerting conquerors, or ſunk beneath the preſſure of the new invaders; they preſerved an undaunted courage amidſt their native rocks, and received among them the gallant fugitives, happy in congenial ſouls. The hardy Saxons, for above three centuries, could not make an impreſſion even on our low lands. Offa was the firſt; who extended his kingdom for ſome miles within our borders. His conqueſt was but temporary; for we poſſeſſed Cheſter, the capital of the Cornavii, till the year 883, when it was wreſted from us by the united force of the Heptarchy beneath the able Egbert. This indeed reduced our confines; but did not ſubdue our ſpirit. With obdurate valour we ſuftained our independency for another four centuries, againſt the power of a kingdom more than twelve times larger than itſelf: and at length had the glory of falling, when a divided country, beneath the arms of the moſt wiſe, and moſt warlike of the Engliſh monarchs.

I NATURALLY begin my journey from the place of my nativity,FLINTSHIRE. Downing in the county of Flint. To give a general idea of this ſhire, the reader muſt learn, that it is leſt of the twelve Welch. Its northern ſide is waſhed by the eſtuary of the Dee, the Seteia Eſtuarium of Ptolemy. The land riſes ſuddenly from the ſhore in fine inequalities, clayey, and plenteous in corn and graſs, for two, three or four miles, to a montanous tract that runs parallel to it for a confiderable way.

[3]THE lower part is divided by pictureſque dingles, which run from the mountains, and open to the ſea, filled with oaks. The inferior parts abound with coal and freeſtone; the upper with minerals of lead and calamine, and immenſe ſtrata of limeſtone and chert. The principal trade of the country is mining and ſmelting.

The northern part of the county is flat, and very rich in corn, eſpecially wheat, which is generally exported to Liverpool. The ſhire, in moſt places, raiſes more than is ſufficient for the uſe of the inhabitants. It is extremely populous; and in the mineral parts compoſed of a mixed people, whoſe fathers and grandfathers had reſorted here for ſake of employ out of the Engliſh mine counties; many of whoſe children, born of Welſh mothers, have quite loſt the language of their fathers.

A LOFTY range of mountains riſe on the weſt, and form a bold frontier. Our county is watered by ſeveral ſmall rivers; ſuch as the Allen, the Terrig, and the Wheeler; part of its weſtern boundary by the Clwyd; and Maelwr, a disjoined part of the country, by the DEE.

WE are ignorant of the claſſical name of this little province. The Ordovices, of which all weſt of Cheſhire was part, were ſubdivided in the time of the Romans, in all probability, as the reſt of the country was. They had Reguli or Lords who ruled over little diſtricts, and united under a common leader when the exigencies of the time required. Theſe factions weakened the ſtate, ſeparated their intereſt, and facilitated their conqueſt by the firſt invaders.

[4]THE names of theſe diſtricts are now unknown. Gwynedd is the moſt antient we are acquainted with for the country of North Wales. The portion I inhabit was called Tegangle, which comprehends the [...]hree modern hundreds of Coleſhill, Preſtatyn, and Rudland. The name is preſerved in the montanous parts of this pariſh, and ſome others, to this day called Mynnydd Tegang. I reject the tranſlation of Tegangle into Fair England, as a mongrel compound. The word is of a much more antient date; it being derived from Cangi or Ceangi, a ſet of people, according to the learned Baxter, belonging to every Britiſh nation; who attended the herds and reſided with them in different grazing grounds at different times of the year. The neighboring Cornavii had their Ceangi, who wintered in Wiral, and took their ſummer reſidence in Tegangle; a word to be properly derived on that account from Teg, fair, Cang, the name of the people, and Lle, a place. To corroborate which, at this very day is a plain in the pariſh of Caerwys, a part of the old Tegangle, adjoining to this mountain, that ſtill retains the title of Maes can havod, or the plain of the hundred ſummer reſidences. For this reaſon I preſume to differ from Mr. Baxter, in his notion of the ſummer reſidence of theſe Cangi. He places it near the Canganorum Promontorium, or Braich y pwll head in Caernarvonſhire; but thoſe were the Cangi of the Ordovices, theſe of the Cornavii.

IT may be remarked, that, contrary to what happens to moſt ſubdued nations, our country preſerved its own language: and the conquerors even deigned to adopt the names of the Britiſh towns and people, latinizing them from the original words. Thus Londinium from LUNDEIN, i. e. LLONG DIN or [5] DINAS, the city of ſhips *, from its conſiderable commerce; DEVA from its ſituation on the river Deva ; DUNMONII from Dunmnyn, or the hill of ore; BRIGANTES from Brig, choice or chief men; Coritani, or rather Coitani, from Coed, a wood. On the retreat of their Roman maſters, the latinized names were dropt, except in a very few inſtances, and their own reſumed; but the reſt of the Britons, who ſubmitted to the Saxon yoke, univerſally received with it the names of places from their conquerors.

THE whole of Flintſhire was ſubdued by the Saxons immediately after the taking of Cheſter by Egbert. It was an open country, deſtitute of inacceſſible rocks and mountains, like the reſt of North Wales; and conſequently incapable of defence againſt ſo potent an enemy. The conquerors, as uſual, new-named the towns, villages, and hamlets; but could not cancel the antient. Thus Hawarden ſtill is known to the Welſh by the name of Pennardd Lâg, or Halawg; Mold by that of Wyddgryg; and Hope by that of Eſtyn; which (with the continuance of our language to this day) proves that even at that time it mixed but little with our conquerors. Numbers of Saxons were ſettled among us, who held their lands from the Mercian governors or earls: we find in the Doomſday book many of their names who had poſſeſſions in this tract; ſuch as Ulbert, Oſmer, and Elmer.

THE firſt notice of any ſub-diviſion of the tract called Flintſhire, DOOMSDAY BOOK. appears in the Doomſday book. When that ſurvey was taken, it was made a part of Cheſhire, to which it was conſidered as [6] an appendage, by conqueſt. Old records affirm, that the county of FLINT appertaineth to the dignity of the ſword of CHESTER. It was ſoon ſubdued by Robert de Rothelent, commander in chief under Hugh Lupus, who carried his arms far into Wales; and ſecured his conqueſts in the marches by building, or rather by adding new works to the caſtle of Rudland, which he had wreſted from one of our princes.

THE tract from Cheſter to the Clwyd was then conſidered as a hundred of Cheſhire, and called in the Doomſday Book Atiſcros hundred. Numbers of places ſtill exiſting are mentioned in it, diſguiſed often by the Norman ſpelling. Whiteford, the place in queſtion, is called Widford: notice is alſo taken of ſome of the preſent townſhips, ſuch as Tre-moſtyn, Tre-bychton, and Merton, under the names of Moſtone, Widſord, Putecaine, and Meretone. MOSTONE was then a plough-land, terra unius Carucae. It had on it four villeyns and eight boors; (Bordarii *,) a wood a league long, and forty perches, particatae, broad, and was valued at twenty ſhillings.

WIDFORD is joined with Putecaine: The firſt ſeems to have comprehended our preſent Trelan, or the place where the church-village now ſtands. Theſe had one plough-land, two villeyns, and twelve others between men and maid ſervants, fiſheries, and a wood half a league long and forty perches broad; the value was the ſame with that of Moſtone.

WITH Meretone is joined the third part of Widford; and the Berewicha or hamlet of Caldecote, the laſt at preſent a townſhip [7] of the pariſh of Holywell. In this diviſion was a preſbyter, a church, and ſix villeyns. Here was a wood half a league long and twenty perches broad. One Odin held theſe of the earl.

AT the time of the conqueſt, all this tract of Flintſhire, which was called by the Saxons Englefield, and afterwards by the Normans Atiſcros, was in poſſeſſion of Edwin, the laſt Earl of Mercia; and on his defeat and forfeiture, beſtowed, with the earldom of Cheſter, on Hugh Lupus. The whole was in a manner depopulated and reduced to a waſte, I imagine by the two inroads made into thoſe parts by Harold, at the command of Edward the confeſſor, to revenge on Griffith ap Lhewelyn the inſult offered him, by giving protection to Algar, one of his rebellious ſubjects*.

It is obſervable, that there were only ſeven churches at that time in the whole hundred: 1. Haordine, the preſent Hawardin; 2. Widford; 3. Biſſard, Boteuuaral, and Ruagor; 4. Inglecroft, Brunfor, and Alchene; 5. Danfrond, Calſton, and Weſbie; 6. Preſtetone and Rueſtoch; and finally, the 7th at Roelend; beſides one that lay waſte at Cancarnacan and Wheneſcol. Parochial diviſions had not yet taken place. Mr. Agard , a writer in the latter end of the ſixteenth century, remarks, that the old hiſtorians make no mention of either pariſhes, parſons, vicars, incumbents, or curates. The people attended, in thoſe days, either the cathedral churches, or the conventual; which were ſerved by the prelates or monks, and thoſe often aſſiſted by preſbyters, clerks, [8] and deacons. As piety gained ſtrength, other churches, for the conveniency of the devout, were erected by the nobility and men of property, who were deſirous of ſpiritual aſſiſtance within their precincts; and to this were owing the churches, which, at the period in queſtion, were ſo ſparingly ſcattered over the land. The places which enjoyed this advantage had the title of Lhan prefixed; as that of Tre, which ſignifies primitively a habitation, is to the townſhips.

THUS in our pariſh is Tre-moſtyn, TRE-MOSTYN. remarkable for the antient ſeat of the family of the ſame name, which acquired it by the marriage of Jevan Vychan with Angharad, heireſs of Howel ap Ithel Vychan of Moſtyn, in the reign of Richard II. The great gloomy hall is of very old date, furniſhed with the high Dais, or elevated upper end, and its long table for the lord and his jovial companions; and another in the ſide, the ſeat of the inferior partakers of the good cheer. The walls are furniſhed, in a ſuitable manner, with antient militia guns, ſwords, and pikes; with helmets and breaſt plates; with funereal atchievements; and with variety of ſpoils of the chace. A falcon is nailed againſt the upper end of the room, with two bells hung to each foot. With theſe incumbrances it flew from its owner, a gentleman in the county of Angus, on the morning of the twenty-fourth of September 1772, and was killed near this houſe on the morning of the twenty-ſixth. The preciſe time it reached our country is not known; therefore we are uncertain whether this bird exceeded in ſwiftneſs the hawk which flew thirty miles in an hour in purſuit of a woodcock; or that which made a flight out of Weſtphalia [9] into Pruſſia in a day: inſtances recorded* by the learned Sir Thomas Brown. The adjacent kitchen is overlooked by a gallery leading to the antient apartments of the lady of the houſe, at a period when the odours of the pot and ſpit were thought no ill ſavours. At one end of the gallery is a great room, remarkable for a ſingular event. During the time that Henry earl of Richmond was ſecretly laying the foundation of the overthrow of the houſe of York, he paſſed concealed from place to place, in order to form an intereſt among the Welſh, who favored his cauſe on account of their reſpect to his granfather, Owen Tudor, their countryman. While he was at Moſtyn, a party attached to Richard III. arrived there to apprehend him. He was then about to dine; but had juſt time to leap out of a back window, and make his eſcape through a hole, which to this day is called the King's. Richard ap Howel, then lord of Moſtyn, joined Henry at the battle of Boſworth, and after the victory received from the King, in token of gratitude for his preſervation, the belt and ſword he wore on the day: he alſo preſſed Richard greatly to follow him to court; but he nobly anſwered, like the Shunamitiſh widow, I dwell among mine own people. The ſword and belt were preſerved in the houſe till within theſe few years. It is obſervable, that none of our hiſtorians account for a certain period of Henry's life, previous to his acceſſion. It is very evident, that he paſſed the times, when he diſappeared from Bretagny, in Wales. Many cotemporary bards, by feigned names, record this part of his life, under thoſe of the LION, the EAGLE, and the like, which were to reſtore the [10] empire to the Britons: for the inſpired favorers of the houſe of Lancaſter did not dare to deliver their verſes in other than terms allegorical, for fear of the reigning prince.

THERE is little more remarkable about the houſe than what is common to others built at different times. Here are two remarkable portraits; one of Sir Roger Moſtyn, knight, with a white beard and locks, in black, with great breeches ſtuck round the waiſt-band with points. This piece of magnificence gave riſe to a very coarſe proverb, applied to inferior people ambitious of acting beyond their ſtation. The other portrait is of his Lady, Mary, eldeſt daughter of Sir John Wynne of Gwedir, baronet. Both are full lengths, dated 1634, and I think painted by Mytens.

HERE is another picture, not leſs remarkable for its ridiculous compoſition, than for the diſtinguiſhed perſon painted in it. A kit-cat length of Sir Roger Moſtyn, the firſt baronet; in a ſtrange long flaxen wig, a breaſt-plate, buff ſkirts, and antique Roman ſleeves; a black holding his helmet; his lady reading, with one hand on a ſcull; and by her huſband a lap-dog. This gentleman was the moſt eminent loyaliſt of our county: raiſed a regiment in ſupport of the crown, conſiſting of fifteen hundred men, in twelve hours timeWhitelock, 78., moſtly colliers; and garriſoned his houſe, which, in September 1643, was ſurrendered to the parlementary forces, with four pieces of cannon and ſome arms.

THE buſts collected in Italy deſerve mention.BUSTS. That of the elder Brutus is particularly fine, as if formed in the inſtant that [11] the love of his country got the better of paternal affection; when with a ſteady voice he was delivering to the lictors his Titus and Tiberius, to receive the reward of their treaſons.

A BEAUTIFUL head of a young faun in a Phrygian bonnet.

A FINE head of one of the Cornelii. An Homer, and an Hippocrates. A Seleucus, with two wings faſtened to an imperial diadem; ſymbols of diſpatch and expedition. Two buſts in brown alabaſter of a male and female faun, with the flammeum on their heads: both are of hideous deformity; but well executed. Here are beſides a few ſmall monumental marbles, with inſcriptions, which the antiquarian reader may find in the Appendix.

IN the Library is a moſt elegant collection of the claſſics,LIBRARY. containing variety of the moſt antient and rare editions; a numerous collection of books relating to the Greek and Roman antiquities, eſpecially thoſe which comprehend the medallic hiſtory; variety of manuſcripts, moſtly on vellum, and many of them richly illuminated. In a few words, ſcarce any private library can boaſt of ſo valuable an aſſemblage; which remain indiſputable evidences of the taſte and judgment of that excellent man, its accompliſhed founder, the late Sir THOMAS MOSTYN. The family are beſides poſſeſſed of other very valuable antiquities; ſuch as the cake of copper found at Caer-hén in Caernarvonſhire; the Torques *, diſcovered near Harlech; and the ſilver harp which the family had the power of beſtowing on the moſt ſkilful minſtrel, rythmer, or bard, at the Eiſteddfad, or aſſembly [12] held for trials of their ſeveral merits. Each of theſe ſhall be ſpoken of in their proper places.

BEFORE I quit the houſe, I muſt take notice, that Thomas ap Richard ap Howel ap Jevan Vychan, Lord of Moſtyn, and his brother Piers, founder of the family of Trelacre, were the firſt that abridged their name; and that on the following occaſion. Rowland Lee, biſhop of Lichfield, and preſident of the marches of Wales, in the reign of Henry VIII. ſat at one of the courts on a Welſh cauſe, and, wearied with the quantity of aps in the jury, directed that the panel ſhould aſſume their laſt name, or that of their reſidence; and that Thomas ap Richard ap Howel ap Jevan Vychan, ſhould for the future be reduced to the poor diſſyllable Moſtyn; no doubt to the great mortification of many an antient line.

IN the higher part of this townſhip ſtands the curious croſs called MAEN ACHWYNFAN,MAEN ACHWYNFAN. or the ſtone of lamentation; becauſe penances were often finiſhed before ſuch ſacred pillars, and concluded with weeping and the uſual marks of contrition: for an example, near Stafford ſtood one called the weeping croſs, a name analogous to ours. This is of an elegant form and ſculpture: is twelve feet high, two feet four inches broad at the bottom, and ten inches thick. The baſe is let into another ſtone. The top is round, and includes, in raiſed work, the form of a Greek croſs: beneath, about the middle, is another in the form of St. Andrew's: and under that, a naked figure, with a ſpear in its hand. Cloſe to that, on the ſide of the column, is repreſented ſome animal. The reſt is covered with very beautiful fret-work, like what may be ſeen on other pillars of ancient date in ſeveral parts of Great Britain.

Figure 1. MAEN Y CHYFAN

[13] I do not preſume (after the annotator on Cambden has given up the point) to attempt a gueſs at the age. Only muſt obſerve, that it muſt have been previous to the reign of groſs ſuperſtition among the Welſh, otherwiſe the ſculptor would have employed his chizzel in ſtriking out legendary ſtories, inſtead of the elegant knots and interlaced work that cover the ſtone.

THOSE, who ſuppoſe it to have been erected in memory of the dead ſlain in battle on the ſpot, draw their argument from the number of adjacent tumuli, containing human bones, and ſculls often marked with mortal wounds; but theſe earthy ſepulchres are of more antient times than the elegant ſculpture of this pillar will admit. This likewiſe (from the croſſes) is evidently a Chriſtian monument. The former were only in uſe in Pagan days.

THERE are likewiſe,GILLI. near to it, an antient chapel, now a farmhouſe, called Gelli, the name of an adjacent tract. This might have relation to the croſs: as well as a place for performance of divine ſervice to the abbot of Baſingwerk, who had a houſe at no great diſtance, in one of our townſhips ſtill called Tré-r-abbot, or the abbot's habitation. This tract (miſ-ſpelt by the Engliſh, Getely ,) with the wood (at that time on it) was granted by Edward I. to the abbot and convent, on the tenth of November, at Weſtminſter, before the death of our laſt prince. He alſo gave him power to grub up the wood, which, by the preſent nakedneſs of the place, appears to have been done effectually.

FROM the ſummit of Garreg, a hill in this pariſh, the traveller may have an auguſt foreſight of the lofty tract of Snowdon, from [14] the crooked Moel Shabog at one end, to the towering Penmaen-mawr at the other: of the vaſt promontory of Llandidno, and part of the iſle of Angleſea, with the great bay of Llandulas, forming a vaſt creſcent; the eſtuaries of the Dee and the Merſey: and to the north (at times) the iſle of Man and the Cumberland Alps, the ſure preſages of bad weather.

I WILL deſcend now to Tre-Bychton, TRE-BYCHTON. another of our maritime townſhips, where ſtands my paternal houſe, attended (with what was very frequent in our principality) a ſummer-houſe, at a very ſmall diſtance, and a cellar beneath; uſed as a retreat for the jolly owners and their friends, to enjoy, remote from the fair, their toaſts and noiſy merriment. This, and the other lower parts of the pariſh, are finely wooded with oaks; which grow ſo ſpontaneouſly, that, was the place depopulated, it would in a very few years relapſe into an impenetrable foreſt.

IN Tre-lan is the pariſh-church, dedicated to Saint Mary. The rectory is a ſinecure, which, with the vicarage, is in the gift of the Biſhop of St. Aſaph. The church, I imagine, retains the antient ſite it had at the time of the conqueſt. The preſent building conſiſts of a nave and one aile. The laſt was built by a Blethyn Drow, of the houſe of Moſtyn, to whom that part belongs.

THE two Mertons,MERTON.Uch glan and Iſglan, are adjacent townſhips. In the reign of Edward I. (before his conqueſt) the lands of the men of Merton, to the amount of ſixteen plough-lands, were taken from them, and beſtowed on the abbot and convent of Baſingwerk, againſt the laws of Wales, and the cuſtom of the country; and contrary to the peace between the King and Prince Lhewelyn *. [15] This violent act was done by Reginald de Grey *, juſtice of Cheſter, probably by connivance of the King, to provoke the Welſh to commit ſome outrage that would give color to the Engliſh to break the truce.

FOLEBROC,FOLEBROC. or Feilebroc, belonged to the monks of Baſingwerk: and is mentioned in the confirmation of the grants to that convent by Henry II. and again in the charters renewed to it by Lhewelyn ap Jorwerth, and David ap Lhewelyn, princes of North Wales. The monks had a grange on it, and right of paſturage on the mountain, in common with neighboring inhabitants.

THE products of this pariſh are corn of every ſort excepting rye. Little cheeſe or butter is made here for ſale, as the graſs is chiefly conſumed by horſes; for the farmers are greatly employed in carrying the minerals of the country: the ſame may be ſaid of the ſhire in general. Every cottager has his potatoe garden, which is a great ſupport to them; and was a conveniency unknown fifty years ago. The lower parts are well wooded; and much timber is at times ſold to Leverpool and other places, at good prices; much is alſo uſed at home in the mines.

THE collieries of Moſtyn and Bychton have been worked for a very conſiderable ſpace;COAL. and in the laſt century ſupplied Dublin and the eaſtern ſide of Ireland with coal. They are at preſent but in a low ſtate; partly from the riſe of the works at Whitehaven, but more from the loſs of the channel of the Dee; which in the beginning of this century flowed ſo cloſe to our ſhore, that ſhips of two hundred tons lay under this pariſh, with their [16] cables twiſted round the trees. At this time veſſels of ſixty or ſeventy cannot approach nearer than two miles, the Dee now flowing under the oppoſite ſhore. Still we load a few veſſels for Ireland and ſome parts of North Wales. Much is alſo conſumed by the neighboring ſmelting-houſes, and the inland parts of Denbighſhire. The improvements of land by lime has of late occaſioned a great comſumption of coal by the farmer, and by the perſons who burn it for ſale.

THE coal is of different thickneſs, from three quarters to five yards. The beds dip from one yard in four to two in three. They immerge beneath the eſtuary of the Dee; are diſcovered again on the ſouth ſide of Wiral in Cheſhire, as if correſponding with ſome of the Flintſhire: they remain as yet loſt, on the northern part of the ſame hundred; but are found a third time in vaſt quantities in Lancaſhire, on the oppoſite ſide of the Merſey. Their extent from weſt to eaſt, in this county, may be reckoned from the pariſh of Llanaſa, through thoſe of Whiteford, Holywell, Flint, Northop, and Hawarden. Our coal is of different qualities, ſuited to the variety of demands of the ſeveral ſorts of founderies in the neighborhood. Beds of canal are met with; inferior indeed in elegance to thoſe of Lancaſhire, but greatly coveted by the lime-burners. Sometimes is alſo found the Peacock-coal of Doctor Plot *, remarkable for the beauty of its ſurface, gloſſed over with the changeable brilliancy of the colors of that beautiful bird.

COALS were known to the Britons before the arrival of the Romans, who had not even a name for them: yet Theophraſtus

[17] deſcribes them very accurately, at leſt three centuries before the time of Caeſar: and even ſays that they were uſed by workers in braſs. It is highly probable that the Britons made uſe of them. It is certain they had a primitive name for this foſſil, that of Glo; and as a farther proof, I may add, that a flint-ax, the inſtrument of the Aborigines of our iſland, was diſcovered ſtuck in certain veins of coal, expoſed to day in Craig y Parc in Monmouthſhire *; and in ſuch a ſituation as to render it very acceſſible to the inexperienced natives, who, in early times, were incapable of purſuing the veins to any great depths. The artleſs ſmelters of antient times made uſe of wood only in their operations, as we find among the reliques of their hearths, as ſhall be obſerved hereafter.

A VERY uſeful ſpecies of aſh-colored greaſy clay is diſcovered over one of the beds. It reſiſts the fire remarkably well; and has been uſed with great ſucceſs in the mineral ſmelting furnaces.

THE beds of ſandſtone are frequent in the lower parts of the pariſh,FREESTONE. and reach within half a mile of the mountain; when the ſtratum changes: firſt to a blackiſh ſhale, ſoon diſſolluble by expoſure to the air; after that to a whitiſh limeſtone, or to a hard chert. Both are found in ſtrata a of vaſt thickneſs:LIME. the firſt is burnt into excellent lime, and is alſo uſed as a flux for lead ores. The common ſort of houſes are built with it; for which it is leſs proper by reaſon of its exceſſive dampneſs at change of weather.

[18]IN the townſhip of Tre-moſtyn, near the ſhore, is a cliff of a very ſingular appearance, looking like the ſemi-vitrified lava of a volcano. The ſtratum is in front univerſally changed in its diſpoſition, and run into a horrible maſs of red and black; often porous, but in all parts very hard. In it is a hollow, a vein in which was lodged the pyritical matter that took fire, and cauſed the phaenomenon. Its fury chiefly raged towards the front, and diminiſhed gradually in the internal part of the bed; which, at ſome diſtance within land, appears only diſcolored. The ſtratum is a ſandſtone of the common ſort*. I am informed, that theſe appearances are not uncommon in Derbyſhire; and that Mr. Ferber, an ingenions Swede, and Mr. Whitehurſt, our ingenious countryman, hath taken notice of them in their writings.

THE chert is the petroſ [...]ex of the later writers. It is of a flinty nature,CHART. and is the only ſtone that reſembles flint in our county. The annotator on Cronſted juſtly remarks, that the true flint abounds in chalk, which is an abſorbent earth, as chert does in the neighborhood of limeſtone, which is alſo calcareous. As yet, this ſpecies of ſtone has nor been found of any uſe. I ſuſſpect, that in caſe it was burnt and ground, it might prove ſerviceable in making a coarſe ſtone ware, as the nodular flints are in making the finer.

Figure 2. Arenaria Saxatilis
Figure 3. Scarlet Mushroom

IN my road to the next pariſh ſouth of this, I take that which lies on the ſhore; and paſs by the antient ſmelting-houſe of Llanerchymor, which is ſtill in uſe for fuſing of lead ore, and extracting of ſilver.

THE ſea, or the eſtuary of the Dee, lies at a ſmall diſtance on the left, a verdant marſh intervening. The hundred of Wiral, a portion of Cheſhire, is ſeen on the other ſide; a hilly tract, woodleſs and dreary, chequered with corn-lands and black heaths; yet formerly was ſo well cloathed, as to occaſion this proverbial diſtich:

From Blacon point to Hilbree
A ſquirrel might leap from tree to tree.

THE view of this branch of the ſea terminates on one end with Cheſter, and the rock of Beeſton; on the other with the two little iſlands of Hilbree or Ilbre. On one, had been a cell of Benedictines, dedicated to our lady, and depqndent on Cheſter. This poſſibly was the hermitage called Hilburghy which, in the [20] ſecond of Edward III. received ten ſhillings a-year from an old charity belonging to the caſtle at Cheſter*.

THE tides recede here ſo very far, as to deny us any variety of fiſh. The ſpecies moſt plentiful are of the flat kind; ſuch as flounders, a few plaice, ſmall ſoles, and rays. Dabs viſit us in November; and in the laſt year was taken that rare ſpecies or flounder the whiff, whoſe figure is given in the annexed plate. The weever is very common here: other ſpecies are taken accidentally.

THE herring in this ſea is extremely deſultory. At times they appear in vaſt ſhoals, even as high as Cheſter; arrive in the month of November, and continue till February; and are followed by multitudes of ſmall veſſels, which enliven the channel. Great quantities are taken and ſalted; but are generally ſhotten and meagre. It is now about ten years ſince they have paid us a viſit.

Figure 4. WHIFF

ON croſſing a little rill beneath the banks, I enter the pariſh of HOLYWELL: And very ſoon after croſs its noted ſtream, near its diſcharge into the eſtuary of the Dee. On the right aſcend to the ſite of the abby and caſtle of Baſingwerk, a place of importance in the wars between the Engliſh and the Welſh. The land towards the ſea is ſteeply ſloped. The weſt ſide was protected by a deep gully, formed by the river; the ſouth-eaſt by the vaſt ditch, which has hitherto been univerſally ſuppoſed to have been that made by Offa, king of the Mercians. I owe the detection of that miſtake to Mr. John Evans of Llwyn y Groes *, who proves it to be one [22] termination of another ſtupendous work of the ſame kind, known by the name of Wat's ditch; of which a full account will be given in ſome of the following pages, with remarks on the mounts, and other works that lie near its courſe.

THE only veſtige of this fortreſs appears in the foundation of a wall on the edge of Offa's ditch.BASINGWERK CASTLE. Lord Lyttelton * ſays, that the founder was an earl of Cheſter. I imagine that it muſt have been Richard, ſon of Hugh Lupus, and ſecond earl of Cheſter; and that the abby was fortified on the following occaſion; for even religious inſtitutions had no exemption, tempore neceſſitatis belli, licitum eſt, hoſpitari et incaſtellari in eccleſia .

ACCORDINGLY, the firſt notice I find of it is in the life of St. Werburg, by Bradſhaw; who informs us, that Richard, on his return out of Normandy, where he had been educated, began his reign with an act of piety. He attempted, in 1119, a pilgrimage to the well of St. Wenefrede; but either in going or returning, was attacked by the Welſh, and obliged to take ſhelter in Baſingwerk. He applied to St. Werburg for relief; who miraculouſly raiſed certain ſands between Flintſhire and Wiral, and thus gave means to his conſtable to paſs to his aſſiſtance: which ſands, from that time were called the Conſtable's Sands. Bradſhaw ſtyles the place of his retreat an abby; a proof that here had been a religious community before the time uſually [23] aſſigned for the foundation of this houſe. I muſt alſo draw from Lord Lyttelton's authority (for I can find no other) that this caſtle was demoliſhed by the Welſh in the reign of Stephen *.

HENRY II. in 1157, after his eſcape from the ambuſcade of Eulo, left Baſingwerk reſtored, well fortified, and manned, in order to ſecure a retreat on any future diſaſter. He did the ſame by the caſte of Rudland. In his days the inland parts of our county were a dangerous wild of foreſt. After his defeat he never truſted himſelf among our woods; but made his marches along the open ſhores.

THE ſame monarch left another ſpecies of garriſon; for he eſtabliſhed here a houſe of knights templars, a military order introduced into England in the preceding reign. They were firſt inſtituted in the Holy Land for the protection of pilgrims; and poſſibly Henry might have, the ſame view in fixing them here, to ſecure the Engliſh devotees in performing their vows to our neighboring ſaint, who ſeems about this time to have come into reputation. It is ſingular, that theſe religious knights were allowed at their inſtitution only one horſe between two; yet ſo greatly did they flouriſh, that about the year 1240, or a hundred and fifty years after their inſtitution, the order had acquired, in different parts of Chriſtendom, nineteen thouſand manors.

THIS caſtle was but of very ſhort duration; for in 1165, the gallant prince Owen Gwynedd laid ſiege to it, took§ and levelled it to the ground; after which the name occurs no more as a [24] Fortreſs. I think at this period it belonged to Hugh de Bello Campo, or Beauchamp, on whom this and Rudland caſtle had been beſtowed by the Engliſh monarch*.

THE abby,ABBY. of which there are ſome conſiderable remains, was founded in 1131 (according to the opinion of Biſhop Tanner) by Randle the ſecond earl of Cheſter: according to Biſhop Fleetwood, by Henry II. For my part, I believe it to be of greater antiquity; but do not pretend to derive its origin. No light into the matter can be collected from the charters preſerved by Sir William Dugdale. There are three of them, either ſerving to confirm the antient donations, or confer new: in each is mention of the earl as a benefactor; but there is not the left hint of his having been the founder. I muſt attribute that honor to one of the princes of Wales; for both Lhewelyn ap Jorwerth, and his ſon David, in their reſpective charters recite, that they give and confirm the ſeveral donations to GOD, St.Mary, the monaſtery of Baſingwerk, and the monks, which had been beſtowed on them by their predeceſſors for the ſalvation of their ſouls.

RANDAL was certainly a great benefactor; for it appears, that before his days the monks had only a chapel here. From that period it became conſiderable; and about that time part of the preſent buildings were erected, for the conveniency of its inhabitants, who were of the Ciſtorcian order.

THE architecture is mixed. Here appears what is called Saxon; having the round arches and ſhort columns in ſome parts; and the

Figure 5. BASINGWERK ABPRY.

[25]Gothic narrow ſlips of high-pointed windows in others. The firſt: ſpecies had not fell out of uſe, and the laſt was coming into faſhion, in the days of the firſt great benefactor.

THE church lay on the eaſt ſide; but is now totally deſtroyed. The refectory is pretty entire; and on one ſide has a great receſs, with two round arches and a plain in front.

ABOVE were the cells for the lodgings of the monks, with a ſmall window to each.

THE chapel of the knights templars is a ſpacious building. The windows are long, narrow, and pointed; the pilaſters between them on the inſide ſlender and elegant.

THERE are ſome remains of offices, uſed at preſent by a tanner. Within leſs than fifty years, much of the habitable part was ſtanding; and ſometimes uſed by the worthy family, the Moſtyns of Trelacre: a lady now living was born within the walls.

DURING the preparations for the conqueſt of Wales by Edward I. the abby was under the protection of the Engliſh. There are extant two orders for the purpoſe, providing that they had no commerce with what are ſtyled the Welſh rebels*. I imagine that the convent was firmly attached to the victor; for I have been informed that there are, among the liſts of ſummons in the Tower, writs for calling the abbot to parlement, in the 23d, 24th, 28th, 32d, and 34th of Edward I.

ACCORDING to the valuation of its revenues in 1534, the groſs ſum at the diſſolution was, according to Dugdale, 150 l. 7 s. 3 d.; [26] to Speed, 157 l. 15 s. 2 d. In 1553, there remained in charge 4 l. in annuities*.

THE particular endowments, as I collect from Dugdale , were theſe: Henry III. by charter, grants and confirms ten librates in Longenedale in Derbyſhire, with the church of Gloſſope, and all its appertenances, to be held by them as freely as William Peverel held the ſame in the time of Henry his grandfather. The ſame charter confirms the donations of Ranulph carl of Cheſter, and other barons, viz. Holywell, Fulbrook, the chapel of Baſingwerſt, the antient reſidence of the monks, with the mills and their appertenances; likewiſe Holes, and a moiety of Lecche, and one hundred ſhillings of the revenues of Cheſter, the gift of the ſaid earl. Calders with its inhabitants, and finally, Kethlenedei, the gift of Robert Banaſtre.

LHEWELYN AP JORWERTH, prince of Wales, and cotemporary with Henry III. confirms all the donations of his anceſtors; particularly the ſite of their houſe, the mill before their gate, and the land before their doors; which laſt was granted to them by Ranulphus, and his brother Aeneas. The ſame grant gives them alſo the land of Meredeth Wawor in Holywell; Fulbrook, a community of paſturage on the mountains; Hanot de le Weceb, and Creicgraft, with all their appertenances. His ſon and ſucceſſor David, by another charter, confirms the donations of his father, and adds the lands of Huttred, brother to Meredeth Wawor of Holywell; the grange of Fulbrook; the church of Holywell, and the chapel of C [...]lſul; and the land and paſturage

Figure 6. [...]

[27]of Gelli, before granted by his father. He likewiſe empowers them to buy and ſell every thing toll-free in all his territories, for the uſe of their houſe. Alſo, the fifth part of the fiſh taken in his fiſheries at Rudland; and the tenth of the fiſh belonging to him in other parts. He confirms to them all the village of Wenhewm, with all its inhabitants and appertenances, being the gift of Howen de Porkenton, and confirmed by Helyſo. He at the ſame time confirms the lands and paſturage in Penthlin, the gift of his father.

THIS charter is dated from Coleſhill in 1240, and witneſſed by Hugh biſhop of St. Aſaph, and his chancellor, the famous Ednyfed Vychan, and others.

TANNER* mentions the tithes of Blackbrook, and the wood of Langdon; lands in Chancleſworth; the manor of Weſt Kirkby in Cheſhire; the ſilver mine near Baſingwerk; free warren in Gethli, Menegrange, Ouregrange, Beggerburgh, and Holywell.

THE abby alſo was poſſeſſed of the hoſpital or chapel of Sponne near Coventry, which had been originally founded by Hugh Ceveilioc earl of Cheſter, who probably beſtowed it on theſe monks.

THE revenues of the abbot amounted in the whole, reckoning [...]riſing from the mills, lands, cows, and ſheep, to 46 l. 11 s. .

IN 1540, the houſe and lands in the neighborhood were granted to Henry ap Harry, whoſe only daughter Anne, by her [28] marriage with William Moſtyn eſquire, of Trelacre, conveyed it into that family, in which it now remains.

I CANNOT recover the names of any more than two of the abbots; both of the ſame with my own. Thomas ap Dafydd Pennant preſided over the houſe in the time of Guttun Owain; a bard who flouriſhed in the year 1480, and celebrates the hoſpitality of the abbot, in ſome verſes printed in the collection of Mr. Rhys Jones. The poet is ſo liberal of his praiſe as to ſay, That he gave twice the treaſure of a king in wine.

Er bwrw yno, aur Brenin
Ef a roes, deuſwy a'r win.

HE ſpeaks alſo of his works of utility; of the water and of the windmills he erected. Neither is he ſilent on a ſubject, pleaſing to every Welſh ear, the pedigree of his patron; whom he derives from Edwin and from Elidir ap Rhys Sais, a direct deſcendant from Tudor Trevor

THE laſt abbot conformed, and married Angared daughter to Gwillim ap Gryſſydd ap Gwillim. The Harleian MS. calls him Sir Thomas Pennant. The remains of a very antient oak, ſtill to be ſeen near the ruins of the houſe, is called the abbot's, and is ſuppoſed to be his cotemporary.

THE road from hence is remarkably pictureſque, along a little valley, bounded on one ſide by hanging woods, beneath which the ſtream hurries towards the ſea, unleſs where interrupted by the frequent manufactories. Its origin is diſcovered at the foot of a ſteep hill,ST. WENEFREDE'S WELL. beneath the town of Holywell, or Trefynnon, to which it gave the name. The ſpring boils with vaſt impetuoſity out of a rock;

Figure 7. ST WENEFRED'S WELL, MOSS, & SEAL.

[29]and is formed into a beautiful polygonal well, covered with a rich arch ſupported by pillars. The roof is moſt exquiſitely carved in ſtone. Immediately over the fountain is the legend of St. Wenefrede, on a pendent projection, with the arms of England at the bottom. Numbers of fine ribs ſecure the arch, whoſe interſections are coupled with ſome ſculpture.

SOME are mere works of fancy; groteſque figures of animals: but the reſt allude chiefly to the Stanley family. This building, and the chapel over it, roſe from the piety of that great houſe, who left theſe memorials of their benefactions: there are beſides ſome marks of illuſtrious donors; for example, the profile of Margaret, mother to Henry VII. and that of her huſband the earl of Derby, cut on the ſame ſtone.

THE compliments to the Stanlies are very frequent. The wolf's head is the arms of the earls of Cheſter: it is incloſed in a garter, in reſpect to Sir William Stanley, knight of that order, who had been chamberlain of that city, and juſticiary of North Wales. The tun with a plant iſſuing out of it, is a rebus, the arms of his wife Elizabeth Hopton, alluſive to her name. This proves, that the building was erected before 1495, in which year Sir William loſt his head. The other badges of the ſame houſe are, the ſtag's head; the eagle's leg; and the three legs, the arms of the iſle of Man.

WE alſo find, that Catherine of Arragon, widow to prince Arthur, and afterwards the unfortunate wife of his brother Henry VIII. was a benefactreſs to this building; at leſt her arms appear here: three pomegranates in a ſhield, ſurmounted with a crown; the badge of the houſe of Granada, in memory of the [30] expulſion of the Moors, by her father Ferdinand *. The eagle ſeems alſo to belong to her, being one of the ſupporters of the arms of her family.

OVER one of the leſſer arches, on each ſide of the well, are the dragon and gre-hound, the ſupporters of the arms of England during the reign of Henry VII. and part of that of Henry VIII. The firſt was born by Henry VII. as a badge of the houſe of Tudor, which derived itſelf from Cadwalader, laſt king of Britain, who bore on his enſign a red dragon. Henry, in imitation of him, at the battle of Boſworth carried on his ſtandard a red dragon, painted on white and green ſilk; which afterwards gave riſe to the office of Rouge dragon among the heralds.

ON one ſide of a wall that ſupports the roof, was painted the tale of the tutelar ſaint; at preſent almoſt defaced: over it is inſcribed, in honorem Sanctae Wenefredae, V. & M.

IN another wall is an elegant nich, in which ſtood a ſtatue of the Virgin Mary; pulled down, as I have been informed, in the year 1635.

I have alſo heard, that there had been another of St. Wenefrede. To grace the image on high feſtivals, it is probable, that Iſabel, counteſs of Warwick, widow to the great Richard Beauchamp, left to St. Wenefrede, in 1439, her gown of ruſſet velvet.

OVER this ſpring is a chapel,CHAPEL. of the ſame date with the other building: a neat piece of gothic architecture; but in a very ruinous ſtate. This had been a free chapel, in the gift of the [31] biſhop, with the reſerve of a ſtipend to the chapter; but the reſt of the offerings were to be expended on the chapel. In Richard III.'s time, the abbot and convent had from the crown ten marks yerely, for the ſuſtentacione and ſalarie of a prieſte, at the chapelle of St. Wyneſride *. The chapel is the property of John Davies eſquire, of Llanerch. The well is common; for I find by a deciſion of the court of chancery, on a law-ſuit reſpecting the lordſhip of Holywell, between Sir John Egerton knight, and John Eldred; chancellor Elleſmere decrees, ‘That on calling to mind, that within the ſaid manor there is a fountain or well of antient and worthy memory, he doth not think fit that the petitioner, or any other, ſhould have the property thereof, notwithſtanding the general words of the grant of the manor: and therefore his lordſhip doth order, that notwithſtanding the ſaid grant, that the well ſhall continue as now it is, or heretofore hath been; ſaving to the petitioner, and his heirs and aſſigns, the benefit of the ſtream and watercourſe, with the appertainances.’

THERE are two different opinions about the origin of this ſtream. One party makes it miraculous: the other aſſert it to be owing only to natural cauſes. The advocates for the firſt, deliver their tale thus:

IN the ſeventh century lived a virgin of the name of Weneſrede, OF SAINT WING FREDE. of noble parents; her father's name was Thewith, a potent lord in the parts where Holywell now ſtands; her mother's, Wenlo, deſcended from an antient family in Montgomeryſhire, and ſiſter to [32] St. Beuno. Beuno aſſumed the monaſtic habit, retired to Clynnog, in Caernarvonſhire, where he built a church and founded a convent. After completing this work of piety, he viſited his relations in Flintſhire, and obtaining from his brother-in-law a little ſpot at the foot of the hill on which he reſided, erected on it a church; and took under his care his niece Wenefrede. A neighboring prince of the name of Cradocus, ſon of King Alen, was ſtruck with her beauty, and at all events determined to gratify his deſires. He made known his paſſion to the lady; who, affected with horror, attempted to eſcape. The wretch, enraged at the diſappointment, inſtantly purſued her, drew out his ſabre, and cut off her head. Cradocus inſtantly received the reward of his crime: he fell down dead, and the earth opening, ſwallowed his impious corps. Hidgen, in his Polychronicon adds, that even the deſcendents of this monſter were viſited with horrible judgments, to be expiated only by a viſit to this well, or to the bones of the ſaint at Salop.

Ad Baſingwerk ſons oritur
Qui ſatis vulgo dicitur.
Et tantis bullis ſcaturit
Quod mox, injecta, rejicit.
Tam magnum flumen procreat
Ut Cambriae ſufficiat.
Aegri qui dant rogamina
Reportant medicamina.
Rubro guttatos lapides
In ſcatebris reperies
In ſignum ſacri ſanguinis,
Quem VENEFREDAE virginis
Guttur truncatum fuderat.
Qui ſcelus hoc patraverat,
Ac nati, ac nepotuli
Latrant ut canum catuli
Donec ſanctae ſuffragium
Poſcant ad hunc ſonticulum:
Vel ad urbem Salopiae
Ubi quieſcit hodie*.

[33]THE ſevered head took its way down the hill, and ſtopt near the church. The valley, which, from its uncommon dryneſs, was heretofore called Sych nant, now loſt its name. A ſpring of uncommon ſize burſt from the place where the head reſted. The moſs on its ſides diffuſed a fragrant ſmell*. Her blood ſpotted the ſtones, which, like the flowers of Adonis, annually commemorate the fact, by aſſuming colors unknown to them before.

Luctus monumenta manebunt
Semper, Adoni, mei: repetitaque mortis imago
Annua plangoris peraget ſimulamina noſtri.
For thee, bleſt maid, my tears, my endleſs pain
Shall in immortal monuments remain.
The image of thy death each year renew;
And prove my grief, to diſtant ages, true.

ST. BEUNO took up the head, carried it to the corps, and, offering up his devotions, joined it nicely to the body, which inſtantly re-united. The place was viſible only by a ſlender white line encircling her neck, in memory of a miracle, which ſurpaſſed far that worked by St. Dionyſius, who marched in triumph after decapitation, with his head in his hands, from Mont martre to St. Dennis's or that of St. Adelbertus, who, in like circumſtances, ſwam acroſs the Viſtula.

TO conclude: St. Wenefrede ſurvived her decollation fifteen years. She died at Gwytherin in Denbighſhire, where her bones [34] reſted till the reign of king Stephen; when, after divine admonition, they were ſurrendered to the abby of St. Peter and St. Paul at Shrewſbury. The memory of the two great events, that of her firſt death is celebrated on the 22d of June: that of her tranſlation the 3d of November.

A FRATERNITY and gild was eſtabliſhed in honor of our faint at Shrewſbury. It had its common ſeal, which, through the kindneſs of my friend, Mr. Henry Levingſton, is now in my poſſeſſion. It is of copper, of the form expreſſed in the plate. In the centre is a repreſentation of the martyrdom; above is a croſs in form of a T, placed between the letters T. m. which mark the time when the fraternity was inſtituted, during the abbacy of Thomas Mynde; who was elected in 1459, and died in 1499, a period in which theſe religious ſocieties were much in faſhion. The T or croſs refers to the church of St. Croſs within this monaſtery. Beneath are probably the arms of the houſe, a ſword and a key, ſymbols of its tutelar apoſtles; and round the margin is this inſcription:

sigillū cōe pfraternitat beate wenefride virginis
ī ecīa se cruc ī fra monaſter. si petri salopie.

A bell belonging to the church was alſo chriſtened in honor of her. I cannot learn the names of the goſſips, who, as uſual, were doubtleſsly rich perſons. On the ceremony, they all laid hold of the rope; beſtowed a name on the bell; and the prieſt ſprinkling it with holy water, baptized it in the name of the Father, &c. &c. * He then cloathed it with a fine garment: after this the goſſips gave a grand feaſt, and made great preſents, [35] which the prieſt received in behalf of the bell. Thus bleſſed, it was endowed with great powers; allayed (on being rung) all ſtorms; diverted the thunder-bolt; drove away evil ſpirits. Theſe conſecrated bells were always inſcribed. The inſcription on that in queſtion ran thus:

Sancta Wenefreda, Deo hoc commendare memento,
Ut pietate ſua, nos ſervet ab hoſte cruento.

And a little lower was another addreſs:

Protege Prece pia, quos convoco, virgo Maria.

AFTER her death, her ſanctity, ſays her hiſtorian, was proved by numberleſs miracles. The waters were almoſt as ſanative as thoſe of the pool of Betheſda: all infirmities incident to the human body met with relief; the votive crutches, the barrows, and other proofs of cures, to this moment remain as evidences pendent over the well. The ſaint is equally propitious to Proteſtants and Catholics; for among the offerings are to be found theſe grateful teſtimonies from the patients of each religion.

THE Holy Father gave all encouragement to the piety of pilgrims to frequent this fountain. Pope Martin V*. in the reign of Henry V. furniſhed the abby of Baſingwerk with pardons and indulgences, to ſell to the devotees. Theſe were renewed again in the reign of queen Mary, by the intereſt of Thomas Goldwell biſhop of St. Aſaph , who fled into Italy on the acceſſion of [36] Elizabeth. Multitudes of offerings flowed in; marks of gratitude from ſuch who had received benefit by interceſſion of the virgin.

THE reſort of pilgrims of late years to theſe Fontanalia has conſiderably decreaſed; the greateſt number are from Lancaſhire. In the ſummer, ſtill a few are to be ſeen in the water in deep devotion up to their chins for hours, ſending up their prayers, or performing a number of evolutions round the polygonal well; or threading the arch between well and well a preſcribed number of times. Few people of rank at preſent honor the fountain with their preſence. A crowned head in the laſt age dignified the place with a viſit. The prince who loſt three kingdoms for a maſs, payed his reſpects, on Auguſt 29th 1686, to our ſaint; and received as a reward a preſent of the very ſhift in which his great grand-mother Mary Stuart loſt her head*. The majority of devotees are of the fair ſex, attracted hither to commemorate the martyrdom of St. Wenefrede, as thoſe of the Eaſt did the death of the Cyprian favorite,

Whoſe annual wound in Lebanon allured
The Syrian damſels to deplore his fate
In woeful ditties all the ſummer's day:
While ſmooth Adonis from his native rock
Ran purple to the ſea, ſuppoſed with blood
Of Thammuz yearly wounded.

WE, whoſe anceſtors, between two and three centuries ago, abridged our faith to the mere contents of the Old and New Teſtament, and to the creed called the Apoſtles, do not think [37] the belief in the above, and other legends, requiſite. I refer the reader to the arguments uſed by the antiquary Doctor Powel, in his notes on the Itinerary of Giraldus Cambrenſis, and to biſhop Fleetwood's annotations on the life of the ſaint, for proofs againſt the truth of the tale: but with Proteſtants, and temperate Catholics, it carries with it ſelf-confutation.

THE waters are indiſputably endowed with every good quality attendant on cold baths; and multitudes have here experienced the good effects that thus reſult from natural qualities, implanted in the ſeveral parts of matter by the divine Providence in order to fulfil his will. Heaven for a ſhort period deigned to convince a dark and obdurate age with a ſeries of miracles; which were delivered down to ſucceeding times, as inconteſtible proofs of the reality of the divine miſſion. Without them, a ſufficient ground of truſt and reliance upon the Supreme Being has long ſince been eſtabliſhed. Second cauſes innumerable are diſperſed throughout the univerſe, ſubordinate to the FIRST. Every element proves to us a medicine or a bane, as ſuits His unerring diſpenſation. We cannot want, we cannot have the mediation of poor departed mortals. The ſuppoſition would be beſtowing on them the attributes of the Deity; omnipreſence and omniſcience.

SOME eminent botaniſts of my acquaintance have reduced the ſweet moſs,MOSSES and the bloody ſtains, to mere vegetable productions, far from being peculiar to our fountain. The firſt is that kind of moſs called a Jungermannia, imperfectly deſcribed and figured by Dillenius, in his hiſtory of moſſes; which has induced us to give a new engraving of it. This ſpecies is alſo found in [38] another holy well in Caernarvonſhire, called Ffynnon Llandeniolen, in a pariſh of the ſame name.

THE other is a Byſſus, likewiſe odoriferous: common to Lapland, and to other countries beſides our own. It adheres to ſtones in form of fine velvet. Linnaeus calls it Byſſus Jolithus *, or the violet-ſmelling. He ſays, the ſtone to which it adheres eaſily betrays itſelf by the color, being as if ſmeared with blood; and if rubbed, yields a ſmell like violets. Micheli, in his Genera of plants, mentions the ſame; and Schwenckſelt diſcovered it among the vegetables of Sileſia. He calls it a muſcus ſubrubeus, and informs us, that the ſmell is grateful to the heart; and that, if put among cloaths, it gives them a good ſcent, and ſerves to drive away moths. Linnaeus ſays§, that it is of uſe in eruptive diſorders.

ABOVE the well ſtands the church, dedicated to St. Wenefrede. The pariſh wakes are celebrated in November, the time of her tranſlation. The living, before the diſſolution, belonged to the abby of Baſingwerk; and is a vicarage in the gift of Jeſus College Oxford, which nominates; and John Davies eſquire, of Llanerch, the lay-rector, preſents.

ABOVE the church is a hill called Bryn y Caſtell, narrow, and very ſteep on the ſides, projecting at the end over the little valley. On this might have ſtood the caſtle of Treffynnon, or St. Wenefrede, built by Randle III. earl of Cheſter, in the year 1210 . There are not at preſent any veſtiges left.

[39]IT is ſingular, that no mention is made in the Doomſday book of either chapel, church, or well; yet townſhips now of leſs note are named; ſuch as Brunford Caldecote, and others. Notwithſtanding biſhop Fleetwood's opinion, I think the legend of St. Wenefrede was known previous to that ſurvey; for the very name of Holywell is Saxon, probably beſtowed on it before the Conqueſt, on account of the imputed ſanctity of the well.

THE ſpring is certainly one of the fineſt in theſe kingdoms; and, by the two different trials and calculations lately made for my information, is found to fling out about twenty-one tons of water in a minute. It never freezes; or ſcarcely varies in the quantity of water, in droughts or after the greateſt rains. After a violent fall of wet, it becomes diſcolored by a wheyey tinge.

THE ſtream formed by this fountain runs with a rapid courſe to the ſea, which it reaches in little more than a mile's diſtance. The induſtry of this century hath made its waters of much commercial utility. The principal works on it at this time are battering mills for copper; a wire-mill, coarſe paper mill, ſnuffmill, a foundery for braſs; and at this time, a cotton manufactory is eſtabliſhing, the ſucceſs of which will be an extenſive bleſſing to the neighborhood.

DURING the reign of pilgrimages, nothing but a corn-mill or two, the property of the monks, found employ for this beneficial ſtream.

THE town was alſo very inconſiderable till the beginning of this century; the houſes few, and thoſe for the moſt part [40] thatched; the ſtreets unpaved; and the place deſtitute of a market. The flouriſhing mines, that for ſome time were diſcovered in the neighborhood, made a great change in the appearance, and introduced the effects of wealth. The town, or rather townſhip, contains ſomewhat more than two thouſand ſouls.

THE monks of Baſingwerk obtained for it the grant of a fair and a market. The firſt has been dropt beyond the memory of man. The market was alſo loſt, till it was renewed by letters patent, dated Jan. 20th, 1703, granted to Sir John Egerton baronet. The patent alſo contains a grant of three fairs, viz. on the 23d of April, the Tueſday in Eaſter week, and the 2d of September. The market has been the moſt flouriſhing in North Wales; but the fairs never could be eſtabliſhed.

THE ſituation of the town is pleaſant and healthy. On the back is a lofty hill, at times extremely productive of lead ore. Towards the ſea is a pretty valley, bounded by woods: the end finiſhes on one ſide with the venerable abby. To ſuch who requ [...]e the uſe of a cold-bath, few places are more proper; for, beſides the excellence of the waters, exceeding good medical aſſiſtance, and comfortable accommodations, may be found here; and the mind entertained, and the body exerciſed, in a variety of beautiful rides and walks.

MY next viſit was to Flint. I took the lower road, by the ſhore, blackened with the ſmoke of ſmelting-houſes; and, in the more flouriſhing times of the collieries, with vaſt ſtacks of coal. The laſt townſhip in Ho [...]ywell pariſh, on this ſide, is that of Coleſhill; COLESHILL. which gives name to a hundred, and was ſo called from its abundance of foſſ [...]l fuel. This place had at the [41] Conqueſt four villeyns, two boors, and a Radman. This laſt ſeems to have been the ſame with the Rod or Rad-knights, who, by the tenure of their lands, were bound to ride with or for their lord, as often as his affairs required.

AFTER croſſing a ſmall brook, enter the town of FLINT:FLINT. a place laid out with great regularity; but the ſtreets far from being completed. The removal of the greater and the leſſer ſeſſions, and its want of trade, will be farther checks to its improvement. This town gave name to the county, which, with that of Caernarvon, Merioneth, and Angleſey, compoſed the four antient North Welſh ſhires, formed by Edward I. immediately after the conqueſt of our principality. I cannot aſſign any derivation of the word: our county is totally deſtitute of the foſſil uſually ſo called. I can only remark, that it is purely Saxon; and, notwithſtanding it is not mentioned in the Doomſday book, was called ſo before the Conqueſt.

THIS place alſo ſeems to me to have been the ſame with what was named Colſul or Coleſhill. I can find no other ſite for the chapel of Colſul, granted by David ap Llewelyn to the abby of Baſingwerk. The preſent Flint probably went at this period under both names. There is no trace of any chapel in the neighborhood excepting this; nor any other place of conſequence enough to tempt our princes to live at. It was called in the Doomſday book Coleſelt; and was poſſeſſed by Robert of Rudland. Edwin held it from him, and as a free-man. Here was one hide of land taxable.

[42]THE whole place appears to have been founded in times of danger; and every proviſion made againſt an attack from a people recently ſubdued, and who had ſubmitted reluctantly to a foreign yoke. The town is formed on the principle of a Roman encampment, being rectangular, and ſurrounded with a vaſt ditch and two great ramparts, with the four regular portae, as uſual with that military nation. I ſhall hereafter give a conjecture of the probability of its having been a Roman ſtation.

THE public buildings within this precinct are the church, the town-hall, and the jail; not one of which is any ornament to this little capital. The church, or rather chapel, is dedicated to St. Mary; and is only a perpetual curacy under Northop. I imagine this to have been the capella de Colſul *, belonging to the abby of Baſingwerk, mentioned in the charter of David ap Llewelyn; at leſt, I can trace no other. Flint, in that time, was probably comprehended under the name of Colſul.

THE caſtle ſtands on a low free-ſtone rock that juts into the ſands, a little north-eaſt of the town; and was once joined to it by a bridge which led to the outwork, called the Barbican; a ſquare tower, with a gateway, now entirely demoliſhed. Within was a court ſurrounded with a ditch faced with a wall, that joined by means of a drawbridge to the main fortreſs; whoſe entrance, for better ſecurity, was little more than a poſtern.

THE caſtle is a ſquare building, with a large round tower at three of the corners, and a fourth a little disjoined from the other, and much larger than the reſt. This is called the double tower.

Figure 8. FLINT CASTLE

[43] It had been joined to the caſtle by a drawbridge, and is of great thickneſs. It has a circular gallery beneath, vaulted, with four arched openings into a central area, a little more than twenty-two feet in diameter. In one part, the gallery is ſuddenly lowered, and goes ſloping towards the caſtle; and then riſing upwards, makes a ſort of communication with an upper gallery.

THIS was the Keep, or ſtrong part of the caſtle, and the ſame that the French call le Dongeon; to which, as Froiſſart informs us, the unfortunate Richard II. retired, as the place of greateſt ſecurity, when he was taken by Bolingbroke.

THE channel of the Dee at preſent is at ſome diſtance from the walls; but formerly flowed beneath. There are ſtill in ſome parts rings, to which ſhips were moored.

THE founder of this caſtle is uncertain. Cambden attributes it to Henry II. and his noble hiſstorian* is of the ſame opinion. After his eſcape at Euloe, it is poſſible that he might have begun a fortreſs here for ſecurity in future times; that he might have left it incomplete; and that it was finiſhed by Edward I. The rolls of the laſt reign mention the place ſeveral times.

IN the year 1277, there was an order for proclaming a market and fair to be held at Flint; and the ſame was afterwards done through Cheſhire, and the cantreds of Wales.

IN 1280, appears an order for the cuſtody of the gate of the caſtle of Flint. Perhaps this might have been the year in which it was firſt garriſoned.

[44] IN 1283, the town received its firſt charter; was made a free borough; and the mayor ſworn faithfully to preſerve its liberties. This is dated at Flint on the 8th of September: it was confirmed again in the 2d and 3d years of Philip and Mary, and afterwards in the 12th of William III.

IN 1283, the burgeſſes alſo received a grant from Edward, of timber out of the woods of Northop, Ledebroke the greater and leſſer, Keldreſton, Wolſynton, Weper, and Sutton, in order to ſmelt their lead ore; and at the ſame time a right of paſturage in the ſame woods.

IN 1290, there is an order for ſuperintending the works of this caſtle, and thoſe of Rudland and Cheſter; places of the firſt importance, on the borders of a new-conquered country*.

THE firſt great event that occurs to me reſpecting this fortreſs is in the year 1280, when the Welſh, wearied with the reiteration of oppreſſion, as a ſignal of general inſurrection, ſurprized the place; at the ſame time that David, brother of Llewelyn; took Hawarden; and Rees the ſon of Malgon, and Griffith ap Meredeth ap Owen, ſeized the caſtle of Aberyſtwyth .

HERE, in 1311, the infatuated ſon of our conqueror received from exile his imperious favorite Piers Gaveſton, who had landed at Caernarvon from Ireland §.

FROM this period I find nothing remarkable relating to this fortreſs, till the year 1335, the 9th of Edward III. when appears an order to the Black Prince, as earl of Cheſter, to take in [45] ſafe cuſtody the caſtle of Flint and Rudland, and to furniſh them with men and proviſions*. Edward, in his 7th year, had by charter granted to his gallant ſon the caſtles of Cheſter, Beeſton, Rudland; and Flint, and all his lands there; and alſo the cantred and lands of Englefield, with all their appertenances, to have and to hold to him and his heirs, kings of England .

IN this dollorous caſtell , as Halle ſtyles it, was depoſed the unfortunate monarch Richard II. To this place he was inveigled by Henry Percy, earl of Northumberland, with the aſſurance that Bolingbroke wiſhed no more than to be reſtored to his own property; and to give to the kingdom a parlement. Northumberland, with a ſmall train, firſt met Richard at Conway, then on his return from Ireland. The king diſtruſted the earl; who, to remove all ſuſpicion, went with him to maſs, and at the altar took an oath of fidelity. The king fell into the ſnare; proceeded with the earl for ſome time, till he perceived, about the precipice of Penmain Rhôs, a large band of ſoldiers with the Percy banners. The king would have then retired; but Northumberland, catching hold of his bridle, forcibly directed his courſe. The poor prince had juſt time to reproach him with his perjury, telling him, that the God he had ſworn upon that morning, would do him juſtice at the day of judgment§. He cauſed the king to dine at Rudland, and conveyed him that night to Flint. The next morning, he was aſtoniſhed with the ſight, of a numerous army, commanded by his rival, in full march [46] along the ſands: they ſoon ſurrounded the caſtle. The prince deſcended from the Keep *, to meet Bolingbroke; who fell on his knees, and for a ſhort ſpace aſſumed a reſpectful appearance: but he ſoon stung off the maſk; for, 'with a high ſharpe voyce,' ſay Stow, ‘the duke badde bring forth the kings horſes; and then two little nagges, not worth forty franks, were brought forth; the king was ſet on the one, and the earl of Saliſbury on the other; and thus the duke brought the king from Flint to Cheſter, where hee was delivered to the duke of Gloceſter's ſonne, and to the earle of Arundel's ſonne, that loved him but a little; for he had put their fathers to death; who led him ſtrait to the caſtle.’

IF Froiſſart may be credited, Richard did not experience the pang of ingratitude from man alone: by a ſtrange infection, it ſeized the moſt faithful of the brute creation; for his very dog deſerted him, and fawned on his rival Bolingbroke, as if he underſtood and predicted the misfortunes of his old maſter, The ſtory is ſo ſingular, that I ſhall relate it in the words of his noble tranſlator Sir John Bouchier, lord Berners ; who, ſpeaking of the tranſactions in Flint caſtle, ſays,

‘AND as it was enfourmed me, kyng Richarde had a grayhounde called Mathe, who alwayes wayted upon the kynge, and woulde knowe no man els. For whan ſo ever the kynge [47] dyd ryde, he that kepte the grayhounde dyd lette hym loſe, and he wolde ſtreyght runne to the kynge and fawne uppon hym, and leape with his fore fete upon the kynges ſhoulders. And as the kynge and the erle of Derby talked togyder in the courte, the grayhounde, who was wont to leape upon the kynge, left the kynge and came to the erle of Derby, duke of Lancaſtre, and made to hym the ſame frendly countinaunce and chere as he was wonte to do to the kyng. The duke, who knewe not the grayhounde, demaunded of the kynge what the grayhounde wolde do. Coſyn, quod the kynge, it is a great good token to you, and an evyll ſygne to me. Sir, howe knowe you that, quod the duke? I knowe it well, quod the kynge. The grayhounde maketh you chere this dave as kynge of Englande, as ye ſhalbe, and I ſhalbe depoſed: the grayhounde hath this knowledge naturallye: therefore take hym to you; he wyll folowe you and forſake mee. The duke underſtoode well thoſe wordes, and cherysſhed the grayhounde, who wolde never after folowe kynge Richarde, but folowed the duke of Lancaſtre.

IN the inſurrection of Owen Glendwr, Henry prince of Wales procured from his father a pardon for ſeveral of his tenants in theſe parts, who took up arms in the cauſe of our valiant countryman*.

THERE is another gap in the hiſtory till the troubles of the laſt century; when this county took an active part in ſupport of royalty, [...]wn caſtle was garriſoned for the king, after having [48] been repaired at the expence of Sir Roger Moſtyn knight, who was appointed governor. In 1643, it was cloſely beſieged by Sir William Brereton and Sir Thomas Middleton; and was defended by the governor till all proviſions, even to horſes, failing, he then ſurrendered it upon honorable terms.

'THIS colonel Moſtyn,' ſays Whitelock, ‘is my ſiſter's ſon, a gentleman of good parts and mettle; of a very antient family, large poſſeſſions, and great intereſt in that country; ſo that in twelve hours he raiſed fifteen hundred men for the king*.’

I MAY add, that after a long impriſonment in the caſtle of Conway, towards the concluſion of the war, his circumſtances were ſo reduced, having ſpent ſixty thouſand pounds in the ſervice of the crown, he was obliged to deſert his family-ſeat, and live ſeveral years in an ordinary farm-houſe.

FLINT fell afterwards into the hands of the loyaliſts; for, under the year 1646, I find in the ſame hiſtorian, that the garriſon ſeemed inclinable to come to a treaty. In November of the preceding year, it had received that of Beeſton; which, after a moſt gallant defence, capitulated, and was allowed to march with all the honors of war to this place. But on the 29th of Auguſt, Flint caſtle was ſurrendered to major-general Mytton; and in 1647 was, with other Welſh caſtles, diſmantled by order of the houſe, directed to the general for that purpoſe.

ON the reſtoration, it was reſumed by the crown, among its other rights, in which it ſtill continues. The crown governs it [49] by a conſtable, who is likewiſe mayor of Flint. Theſe offices are at preſent filled by my friend Owen Brereton, eſquire.

THE town, in conjunction with Caerwys, Rudland, Caergwrley, and Overton, ſends a member to parlement. The election is made by the inhabitants paying parochial taxes; and the return made by the two bailiffs of Flint, appointed by the mayor. The borough land of this town extends over the whole pariſh, and alſo the townſhip of Coleſhill, in the pariſh of Holywell.

THE Welſh boroughs and counties received the privilege of repreſentatives by act of parlement of the 27th of Henry VIII.

THIS town, with the county, was an appendage to the earldom of Cheſter. The following ſchedule gives us their revenues, as they ſtood in the 50th year of Edward III.

 £.s.d.
The profits of the manor of Hope and Hopedale,6300
of the manor of Eulo, and the coal-mines,600
of the office of conſtable of Rudland, whereof he was accountable,8140
the rent of the town of Flint,5600
of the town of Coleſhill,4710
of the town of Caerwis,2268
of Bagherge,1434
of Veyvoll (Veynoll),1368
of Rudland,7292
of Moſtyn,1568
of the office of eſcheator of Englefield,5600
Carried over, £331144
[50]Brought over, £331144
The Bloglot of the county of Flint, which conſiſteth of the profits of the hundred courts within the ſaid county,72119
The profits of the perquiſites of the ſeſſion of Flint,3000
of the eſcheator of the ſaid county,800
Total, £44261

ABOUT a mile from the town, on the lower road to Cheſter, ſtood a croſs, whoſe pedeſtal I remember, which was called Atis-croſs, ATIS-CROSS. and the land around is ſtill called Croes-ati. This probably was a place of note; for, at the Conqueſt, it gave name to a very conſiderable hundred, at that time conſidered as part of Cheſhire. Exeſtan was another, now given to Flintſhire; which will be noticed in its place.

THERE is a tradition, that in very old times there ſtood a large town at this place; and it is ſaid the foundations of buildings have been frequently turned up by the plough. But what is moſt remarkable, is the great quantities of ſcoria of lead, bits of lead ore, and fragments of melted lead, diſcovered in ſeveral ſpots here, and along the country, juſt above the ſhore, in the adjoining pariſh of Northop. Theſe have of late been diſcovered to contain ſuch quantities of lead, as to encourage the waſhers of ore to farm the ſpots. In this tract, numbers of tons have been gotten within a ſmall time, eſpecially at Pentre FFWRN-DAN, or the place of the fiery furnace; a name it was always known by, and which evinces the antiquity of ſmelting in [51] theſe parts; but this etymology was never confirmed, till by means of theſe recent diſcoveries.

In page 42 I mentioned my ſuſpicion, that the precinct of Flint town once ſerved to incloſe a ſmall Roman ſtation: I am confirmed in my opinion, from the multitudes of Roman coins, Fibulae, and variety of antique inſtruments, lately diſcovered by the workmen in the old waſhes of this and the next pariſh; which prove that the Romans made this their port for exporting the metal, after it was fuſed from the ore of the adjacent mountains. Here might be placed a ſmall garriſon to protect the antient ſmelters, or to collect the duties, or to receive the tribute of metal. Previous to the ſettlement of the Romans in Britain, Strabo ſpeaks* ſo ſlightly of our articles of commerce, as to ſay, they were not worth the expence of one legion and a few horſe. He died in the year 25, before our country was ſcarcely known, except by the attempt of Caeſar. But the trade, both in his days, and thoſe of that great geographer, was carried on merely by exchange. The Britons worked their own mines of tin and lead; and in their room received from the foreign merchants, earthen ware, ſalt, and works of braſs.

IN a ſmall time after the Romans had carried their arms through our iſland, they began to apply with vigor to the working of the mines. At firſt, the ore of lead was got with eaſe: it offered itſelf on the ſurface. In Spain and Gaul, much labor was required to dig it up; in Britain it was found near the common ſoil; and in ſuch quantities, that in Pliny's time [52] (who died in the year 79) there was a law (as there is at preſent in reſpect to black lead) limiting the annual produce*. Chance was the general detector of metallic riches in early times. The gold mines of Galicia were diſcovered by the plough: thoſe of India by the caſting up of hillocks by the piſmires: the ſilver mines of Spain by the caſual burning of a wood§. Trivial accidents, even to this age, have been the cauſe of mighty mineral diſcoveries. The great mine at Halkin was diſcovered by ditching: that at Llangynnog in Montgomeryſhire, by the ſlip of a woman aſcending a hill, and baring the vein with her feet. Many of the works that we ſuſpect to have been Roman are very ſhallow; generally in form of trenches, through which they purſued the veins. They probably were diſcovered from ſlight cauſes. But as ore grew more ſcarce, and avarice encreaſed, the purſuit went as deep as the art or powers of the time would permit. Imus in viſcera ejus (Telluris) et in ſedes manium opes quearimus . ‘We deſcend into the very bowels of the earth; and ſeek riches even in the ſeat of departed ſpirits.’ The want of gun-powder was a great impediment. Inſtead, we find that great fires were uſed; the rock intenſely heated, and cracks formed in it by the ſudden infuſion of water; Pliny ſays of vinegar. The wedge or pick-ax** was then inſinuated into the apertures, and the ſtone or the ore forced out. Miners often diſcover the marks of fire in antient mines. I am in poſſeſſion or a little wedge, five inches and a quarter long, [53] preſented to me by Mr. Smedly of Bagilt Hall, diſcovered in working the deep fiſſures of Dalar Goch rock in the pariſh of Diſert in this county. This little inſtrument affords a proof of its antiquity, by being almoſt entirely incruſted with lead ore. It had probably lain in the courſe of ſome ſubterraneous ſtream, which had brought along with it the leaden particles, and depoſited them on the iron.

PICK-AXES of an uncommon bulk, and very clumſy, have been diſcovered in the bottom of the mineral trenches. Theſe ſeem to have been the ſame with the Fractaria of the Romans, pick-axes of enormous ſize, uſed by the miners in the gold mines* of Spain. Buckets of ſingular conſtruction, and other things of uſes unknown at preſent, have been found among the antient mines.

IN many reſpects the antient methods of mining were ſimilar to thoſe in preſent uſe. The laborers worked by ſtems, relieving each other at ſtated times. They worked night and day, by the light of lamps. They drove levels, and ſunk ſhafts, propping up the ground as they went on. They purſued the veins by forming drifts; and finally, whenever the mines were moleſted with water, they had pumps, which flung up the water from the greateſt depths they arrived at.

I HAVE mentioned above,DIVINING ROD the caſual detection of our mineral wealth. It will perhaps amuſe the reader, by informing him, that in this county, within my memory, recourſe was had to the virgula divinatoria, or divining rod; which, by powers ſympathetic [54] with the latent ore, was to ſave the uſual expences of ſearch, and to point out the very ſpot where the treaſures lay. A foreign adventurer, half knave half enthuſiaſt, made the trial; but it proved as unfortunately unſucceſsful to himſelf, as to his admirers. The inſtrument of the attempt was no more than a rod forked at one end, ‘to be cut in a planetary hour on SATURN'S day and hour; becauſe SATURN is the ſignificator of lead. Jupiter, Venus, Sol, and Mercury, were alſo concerned in the time of the operation. Jupiter, or Pars Fortunae, was to be in Conjunction, Sextile, or Trine to the LORD of the aſcendent or ſecond; and the better, if any reception happen; but BEWARE it be not by Square or Oppoſition; for that ſpoils all*.’ Thus cut, it is laid by for uſe on a heap of wheat or barley; and from the rod of Moſes, was alſo profanely called the Moſaical rod. This was to be held by the forks in both hands; and carried over the grounds ſuſpected to contain the ore. It went unaffected over all the barren ſpots; but no ſooner did it impend over a vein, than it preſſed ſtrongly down, and ſeemed to feel the ſame attraction as is between iron and the magnet. The ſenſible Agricola ſpeaks of this practice incidentally; and gives a long account of the proceſs; but places no kind of faith in it, aſſuring us, that the ſkilful miner ſhould follow the natural ſigns of the mineral veins, and deſpiſe the uſe of theſe enchanted ſticks. He traces their origin from impoſture. The magicians of Pharaoh made uſe of wands in their deception of the ſerpents: Minerva, by virtue of a wand, turned the aged Ulyſſes into a [55] young man; and again to his former ſtate: Circe, by the magical powers of a rod, changed his companions into beaſts: And laſtly, Mercury, by the ſame means, impelled the watchful to ſleep, and the ſleepy to wake*. Let me now return to realities!

THE miners, in the earlier times of the Romans in Britain, ſeem to have been the ſubdued natives. Galgacus encourages his ſoldiers to conquer or die, by laying before them the dreadful conſequences of a defeat; Tributa et METALLA, et caeterae ſervientium panae. ‘Tributes and mines, and all the dire penalties of ſlavery.’ Agricola himſelf verifies the prophetic ſpirit of our brave chieftain, by calling our mines the reward of victory. Theſe were to be worked, not by the conquerors, but by condemned criminals, by ſlaves, and Britons newly ſubjugated. It is probable, that when the iſland was entirely ſettled, this badge of ſlavery was taken away, and the miners were, as before the arrival of the Romans, voluntary laborers.

WHEN the ore was got, it was cleanſed according to the modern method, and ſmelted in a furnace, and caſt into forms very nearly reſembling the common pigs of lead.

OF ſuch,ROMAN PIGS OF LEAD I have ſeen three, found in different parts of Britain: the one in Hints, common, in the manor of Ralph Floyer eſquire, in the county of Stafford, in the year 1771. It was found under ground, at the depth of four feet. Its length [56] is twenty-two inches and a half; the weight a hundred and fifty-two pounds, about two pounds heavier than our common pigs of lead. On the upper ſurface is a rim; within that, in raiſed capitals, ſtruck when the metal was hot, is this inſcription: IMP.x.VESP VIIxTxIMPxVxCOS. or Imperatore VESPASIANO Septimùm TITO Imperatore quintùm Conſule: which anſwers to the year 75 or 76.

ON one ſide is the word DECEA, and at a diſtance the letter G. An ingenious Anonymous, in the Gentleman's Magazine of 1772, conjectures it to have been a C, made by the ſuperintendant of the mine, or furnace, to ſhew either that the pig had paid duty, or was of due weight, or of proper purity. For my part, I am of opinion, that DECEA had once between it and the G, the letter N; which will render it DECEANG, or de Ceangis, the place which produced the ore; but by ſome accident that letter was defaced, and the G left ſeemingly unconnected. This explanation will fling light on certain pieces of lead deſcribed by Cambden, to be taken notice of a few lines lower.

THIS curious antiquity is in the cabinet of Mr. Green, apothecary in Litchfield; whoſe collection merits the attention of the inquiſitive traveller; who may be aſſured of the moſt liberal reception from the worthy owner.

IN 1731, two pigs of the ſame kind, and of the ſame length, were diſcovered on Hayſhaw moor, in the manor of Dacre, in the weſt riding of Yorkſhire, on the eſtate of Sir John Ingleby of Ripley. One is preſerved by the family: the other was preſented to the Britiſh Muſeum. Theſe alſo have an imperial inſcription [57] on the top; Imperatore CAESARE DOMITIANO AUGUSTO Conſule Septimum. This was caſt in the year 87, and under the ſame regulation, The other pig, which I ſaw at Ripley Hall, has the ſame inſcription; and on one ſide the word Brig, ſignifying that it came from the country of the Brigantes *.

IN the time of Cambden, twenty pieces of lead, ſimilar to the above, were found near Halton in Cheſhire; ſome inſcribed, IMP. DOMIT. AUG. C. DE CEANG.; others, IMP. VESP. VII. T. IMP. V. COSS. Theſe have been ſuppoſed to commemorate a victory over the Cangi; but it is evident that they were nothing more than pigs of lead brought here for uſe, or for tranſportation: and I am farther ſatisfied, that the ore which produced this lead was dug and ſmelted, either in that part of Flintſhire antiently called Tegangle, or the ſummer's reſidence of the Cangi, or Ceangi; or from the reſidence of the ſame order of people either in Derbyſhire, or ſome neighboring county. This gives reaſon to ſuſpect, that theſe Cangi, during their long vacant time, might ſometimes engage in mineral concerns; and then the ore, when ſmelted, might receive the mark of the people from whom it was received. The pig of lead in Mr. Green's cabinet, certainly came from the Cangi of Derbyſhire.

FROM the regulation mentioned by Pliny, and all theſe imperial inſcriptions, it is clear, that the public took the mineral concerns into its own hands; and had their ſtamp-maſters in proper places. I cannot pretend to fix the period of the firſt eſtabliſhment. If the inſcription to Claudius , on a maſs of lead [58] found in Henry VIII.'s time, near Wokey Hole in Somerſetſhire, be of the ſame kind with the former, it muſt have been within the year 49, the time of his ninth tribuneſhip.

THE Romans found ſuch plenty of ſilver in the Spaniſh mines, that for ſome time they never thought it worth their labor to extract it from lead*. In later times, they diſcovered an ore that contained ſilver, tin, and lead; and theſe three metals were ſmelted from it. It appears, that the firſt product was the tin; the ſecond, the ſilver; and what Pliny calls Galaena, which was left behind in the furnace, and ſeems to be the ſame with our litharge, and being melted again, became lead, or, as the antients called it (to diſtinguiſh it from white lead or tin) black lead .

THE Britiſh name of lead is loſt. The only word we have to expreſs an ore is mwyn; but the ſpecies is expreſſed by an adjunct, as mwyn aur, gold, mwyn plwm, lead ore; both which were probably derived from the Latin. The Romans made uſe of the word metallum to expreſs ore, as well as the metal fuſed from it: the word minera is a word of a barbarous age, and probably derived from our mwyn.

I SHALL finiſh this account of the Roman ſtate of the lead concerns, with obſerving, that they appeared to have been well verſed in metallurgy, and to have had their ſmelting-houſes. The ruder Britons, before their conqueſt by the Romans, had a very ſimple proceſs. They placed the ore in a hole in the ground, and mixed it with wood; which being fired, proved [59] sufficient to melt the lead out of the ſoft and kindly ores of this country; a ſmall gutter communicated with a ſecond hole, into which the metal ran from the firſt. Theſe artleſs ſlag-hearths are very frequent in our county, diſcovered by the quantity of ſcoria mixed with charcoal. Some of our modern ſmelters have endeavoured to extract the remaining part of the metal from theſe ſlags, but in vain; the antient ſmelters having ſo effectually done their buſineſs, as not to have left behind ſufficient to pay the expences of a ſecond operation: the moſt that could be procured from a ton of ſlags, amounting only to about a hundred and fifty pounds weight.

I CANNOT tell what uſe the Britons made of the metal, excepting as an article of commerce. I muſt not dare to aſſent to the tale of the venerable Bede *, who ſays, that the ſtakes driven into the Thames, to obſtruct the paſſage of Caeſar, were wrapped round with lead. The project was uſeleſs, This expedient of the Britons was temporary; the ſtakes did not require ſuch a covering to preſerve them; and the metal of lead was ſurely very improper to point them with.

I am of opinion, that there had been in our country a ſucceſſion of founderies of lead, from the time of the Romans to the preſent, at every period in which the civil commotions would permit them to be carried on. The Saxons worked the Britiſh mines as well as the Romans, and made frequent uſe of the lead in all works of eccleſiaſtial magnificence. The cathedral of Lindisfarn was roofed with lead by its biſhop Eadberct, about [60] the year 652; that of York was covered with the ſame metal by its great prelate Wilfrid *, in 669; and after that, Egelric, who was elected abbot of Crowland in 975, roofed the infirmary and chapel of that famous abby in a ſimilar manner. I mention theſe circumſtances merely to ſhew, that the Saxons continued the buſineſs of ſmelting in the different parts of our iſland. We are aſſured that there have been, at different times, ſmelting-works for a century or two paſt in the pariſhes of Flint and Hawarden; and at preſent there is one in uſe in each of them.

I ſhall take this opportunity of mentioning incidentally the other minerals of Greet Britain, taken notice of by the antients, either as articles of trade or matters of curioſity.

TIN was aot only the firſt metal in theſe iſlands which we read of;TIN but alſo the greateſt object of commerce; and which originally led to the diſcovery of Great Britain by the Romans. The mercantile Phoenicians traded to the Silley iſlands, the Caſſiterides, or land of tin, from the port of Cadiz, four hundred years before CHRIST. The Romans, for a conſiderable ſpace, could not diſcover the place from whence the former procured the precious, metal. They attempted to detect the trade, by following the courſe of a Phoenician veſſel; but the maſter, faithful to the intereſt of his country, voluntarily run his ſhip aſhore in another, place; preferring the loſs of all, rather than ſuffer a foreign nation to become partakers of ſo profitable a ſecret. The public immediately compenſated his loſs out of its treaſury. This did [61] but make the Romans more eager after the diſcovery; and after many trials, ſucceeded. Publius Craſſus (father of Marcus Craſſus the Triumvir) who was praetor, and governed Spain for ſeveral years, landed in the Caſſiterides, and found the report of their riches verified*.

As ſoon as the Romans made a conqueſt of the country, they formed in the tin province camps and roads, ſtill viſible; and left behind vaſes, urns, ſepulchres, and money, that exhibit daily proofs of their having been a ſtationary people in thoſe parts; and that Dunmonium extended even to the Belerian promontory, or the Land's-end; and was not, as ſome writers imagine, limited by the weſtern parts of Somerſetſhire.

IT is not to be imagined, that they could neglect a corner of our iſland, productive of a metal ſo uſeful in mechanics as tin, and which it yielded in ſuch plenty, as to receive from that circumſtance the name. So great was the intercourſe that foreign nations had with the inhabitants bordering on Belerium, as to give them a greater ſçavoir vivre, and more extenſive hoſpitality, than was to be found in other parts of the iſland. They were equally expert in working the mines, and preparing the ore, which lay in earthy veins within the rocky ſtrata. They melted and purified it, then caſt it into rows of cubes, and carried it to Ictis, the modern Iſle of Wight: from thence it was tranſported into Gaul; conveyed from the place, it was landed at, on horſes backs, a journey of thirty days, to the mouth [62] of the Rhone, and then to the Maſſylians, and the town of Narbon *.

WITH tin the Romans made mirrors; lined their veſſels of braſs to prevent its deadly effects; made pewter, and from that a variety of domeſtic veſſels; and, by the combination of other metals, formed a ſubſtance that mimicked ſilver: ſo that a country, abundant in ſo uſeful an ore, would never be neglected by theſe wiſe people.

DID not Caeſar and Strabo agree in their account,COPPER I ſhould never have believed it was poſſible that the Britons could have neglected their rich mines of copper, and have been obliged at firſt to have imported that metal. Perhaps the ore was leſs acceſſible, and the art of fuſion unknown; for iſlands, from their very ſituation, muſt remain longer ignorant of arts than continents; eſpecially ours, which lay far to the weſt of the origin of all ſcience.

STRABO ſays, that they imported works of braſs; but it is as certain, that they afterwards did themſelves fabricate that metal into inſtruments. The Celts, a Britiſh inſtrument, was made in this iſland. Numbers have been found in Yorkſhire and in Eſſex §, together with cinders, and lumps of melted metal; which evince the place of a forge. We cannot aſcertain the period when the Britons had the art of adding the mixture of lead that is found combined with them; or whether they learned it from their conquerors, [63] who were fully poſſeſſed of the art of fuſing this, as well as other metals, is unknown. The Romans had their founderies of copper in our iſland; and caſt the metal into regular forms. A maſs was found at Caer hėn, the antient Conarium, four miles above Conway, which probably was ſmelted from the ore of the Snowdon hills; where of late years much has been got. This maſs is in ſhape of a cake of bees-wax; and on the upper part is a deep concave impreſſion, with the words SOCIO ROMAE; acroſs theſe is impreſſed obliquely, in leſſer letters, Natſol. I cannot explain it, unleſs Nat. ſtands for natio, the people who paid this ſpecies of tribute; and ſol. for ſolvit, that being the ſtamp-maſter's mark. Theſe cakes might be bought up by a merchant reſident in Britain, and conſigned SOCIO ROMAE, to his partner at Rome. The weight of this antiquity is forty-two pounds; the diameter of the upper part eleven inches; the thickneſs in the middle two and three quarters*.

CALAMINE,CALAMINE. the Cadmia of Pliny , and the ſtone-Cadmia of Strabo , abounds in the mineral parts of this iſland. The Romans knew its uſes in making of braſs; therefore cannot be ſuppoſed to have overlooked ſo neceſſary an ingredient. The remains of the braſs-founderies, diſcovered in our kingdom, ſhew, that they were acquainted with it. The knowlege of this mineral in after-ages was long loſt. Before the reign of Elizabeth, much was imported from Sweden; but at that period it was diſcovered again in the Mendip hills; and, fortunately, at the ſame time that the working of the copper mines in thoſe of Cumberland. [64] was renewed. Our county abounds with it; but, till within theſe ſixty years, we were ſo ignorant of its value, as to mend our roads with it.

CAESAR and Strabo * allow that we had iron.IRON. The firſt ſays that it was rare; far bits of it paſſed for money by weight. In Strabo's days it was found in greater plenty; for he mentions it among the articles of exportation. Immenſe beds of iron-cinders are to this day found in the foreſt of Dean, the reliques of the Romans; others in Monmouthſhire; another was diſcovered near Miſkin, the ſeat of William Baſſet, Eſq beneath which were found a coin of Antoninus Pius, and a piece of earthen ware; and finally, others in Yorkſhire , alſo accompanied with coins: all which evince the frequency of iron-founderies during the period of the Roman reign in Britain. Theſe cinders are not half exhauſted of their metal; for the Romans knew only the weak powers of the foot-blaſt. They are now worked over again, and are found to yield a more kindly metal than what is produced from the ore. Theſe beds are ſuppoſed to be almoſt inexhauſtible; a proof of the vaſt founderies of early times.

GOLD and ſilver are enumerated§ among the products of Great Britain. GOLD The Romans were acquainted with this; and our precious metals proved another incentive to their ambition to effect our conqueſt. Agricola, in his oration to his ſoldiers before the battle of the Grampian mountain, excites them to victory, by [65] reminding them of our riches, the reward or valor. Fert BRITANNIA, aurum et argentum, et alia metalla pretium victoriae *.

THESE metals have, in later times, been got in quantities ſufficient to prove, that they might, in earlier time, be an object worthy of conqueſt. In the reigns of James IV. and V. vaſt wealth was procured in the Lead Hills, from the gold collected from the ſand waſhed from the mountain. In the reign of the latter, not leſs than three hundred thouſand pounds Sterling. In another place, a piece of thirty ounces weight was found. Much was alſo obtained in the time of the Regent Morton . The ſearch is now given over; but ſtill bits are found accidentally. Lord Hopton, owner of the Lead Hills, is in poſſeſſion of one that weighs an ounce and a half.

GOLD is to this day found in Cornwall, mixed with tin and other ſubſtances. The largeſt piece that has been yet diſcovered, is equal in weight to three guineas. It is probable that it was the Corniſh gold which proved the lure to the Romans; for it was impoſſible they or the Phoenicians could be ignorant of it, who had ſuch long commerce with the country, and who were acquainted with the manner of obtaining it in other places. Pliny, ſpeaking of tin, ſays, that there is found in the gold mines of Spain and Portugal, a ſort called Elutia, (which a Corniſh man would call ſtream tin) being waſhed from [66] the vein by water, and was gathered up in baſkets along with the gold*.

STRABO and Tacitus agree,SILVER. that we had mines of ſilver. In the reigns of Edward I. and III. there were very conſiderable works at Combmartin in Devonſhire : three hundred and thirty-ſeven miners, ſent for out of Derbyſhire, were employed in them; and the produce was ſo great as to aſſiſt Edward the third to carry on the war with France. In the beginning of this century, much native ſilver was found on the eſtate of Sir John Erſkine, in the county of Stirling; but the vein was ſoon exhauſted.

THE BRITONS were acquainted with the uſes of gold and the art of coining before the arrival of the Romans; witneſs the golden ſickles of the Druids, the coins found at Carnbre in Cornwall, and the coins of Caſſivelaunus. They made uſe of different ſorts of metals; but moſtly of gold, being the eaſieſt fuſed, and moſt capable of an impreſſion. Doctor Borlaſe has preſerved a ſeries of theſe very early coins, from the rudeſt and moſt unintelligible impreſſions, to the period when the Britons made an attempt to form a face on their coins. All theſe are unlettered; a proof of their antiquity, and of their having been ſtruck before their intercourſe with the Romans. The firſt we know of, which is inſcribed, is that of Caſſrvelaunus, cotemporary with Caeſar. The next is of Cunobeline, who had even been at [67] Rome. As ſoon as the Britons became acquainted with the Romans, they made an eſſay to imitate their manner of coining; they put letters on them, elephants, and gryphons; things they were before unacquainted with. They were not ſuffered to make any progreſs in the art; for as ſoon as their conqueſt was effected, their coin was ſuppreſſed. The learned have endeavoured to trace theſe antient monies from the Phoenicians; but the compariſon would not hold. The Gauls alone had ſome pieces ſimilar: nor is this to be wondered at, ſince they and the Britons had a common origin, were neighbors, and might as well agree in the few arts they had, as in religion and language*.

I NOW return to the ſubjects which occasſioned this digreſſion; and to give ſome account of the various antique inſtruments and coins found near Flint; and accompany the ſame by the more expreſſive deſcription, a print.

No 1. tab. viii. is a rich ornament of gold, in form of a button with a ſhank. It is compoſed elegantly with twiſted wire, and ſtudded with little globular bits of ſolid gold. This ſeems to have belonged to the bracelet or necklace (it is uncertain which), whoſe fragment is repreſented at No 2. This is alſo compoſed of gold links, with round beads of a rich blue glaſs placed between every ſecond link. Something ſimilar to this is preſerved by count Caylus, which is entire, and appears to have been a necklace.

[68]No 3. is a cylindric fragment of glaſs, probably part of ſome ornament, being of a rich blue color, and perforated as if it was deſigned to be ſtrung. With it was found a thick piece of ſea-green glaſs, part of a vaſe. Glaſs was among the earlier imports into Britain *, when the wild natives were as much captivated with toys as the Indians of new-diſcovered countries are at preſent. At firſt they received theſe, and all their other vitreous commodities, by means of the Phaenicians, whoſe capital, Tyre, was pre-eminent in that manufacture. The glain nadroedd, or ſnake-gems, were at firſt obtained by way of exchange for the Britiſh exports. They were originally made by the Britons of ſtone. I have ſuch a one in my cabinet. I have ſeen another in poſſeſſion of the Reverend Mr. Hugh Davies, found in Angleſea. The traders ſoon learned to imitate what was prized ſo high in our iſland, in a more elegant material; and imported them as a moſt captivating article of commerce; in the ſame manner as circum navigators often mimic, in ſhewy braſs, the utenſils and weapons of Indian nations, in order to engage their friendſhip.

No 4. is a ſmall brazen head, with the back part affixed to iron. Perhaps this was one of the Sigillaria, or little images ſold at the fairs, and preſented uſually to children: and the fairs where theſe toys were ſold went by the ſame name. A learned friend alſo ſuppoſes theſe to be miniature likeneſſes, which friends preſented to each other as memorials.

[69]No 5. is a Stylus, or inſtrument for writing on the ceratae tabellae, or waxen tablets; which were made of thin leaves of lead, braſs, or ivory, and covered with a thin coat of wax. The pen, if I may call it ſo, was uſually of braſs; one end pointed, in order to write; the other flatted, in order to efface what was wrong, by ſmoothing or cloſing the wax. Horace gives every writer moſt excellent advice, in alluding to this practice:

Saepe Stylum vertas, iterum quae digna legi ſint,
Scripturns.
Oft turn your ſtyle, when you intend to write
Things worthy to be read.

No; 6. is an inſtrument of very ſingular uſe: a narrow ſpecies of ſpoon, deſtined to collect, at funerals, the tears of the relations of the deceaſed, in order to depoſit them in the little phials which were placed with the aſhes in the urn, memorials of their grief. Such are very frequently found: but the cuſtom is far higher than that of claſſical antiquity; for the PSALMIST, in expreſſing his ſorrows, alludes to it; THOU telleſt my flittings; put my tears into thy bottle.

No 7. is an inſtrument ſeemingly deſigned for the purpoſe of dreſſing the wicks of lamps.

No 8. may poſſibly be deſtined for the ſame uſes.

No 9. is a brazen bodkin.

No 10. is a fibula or brotche, gilt, and enameled with deep blue in front.

[70]No 11. is a brotche, not unlike ſome uſed at preſent by the common Highlanders; whoſe dreſs, in its genuine ſimplicity, ſeems to have been borrowed from the Romans.

No 12. is alſo a ſpecies of button; but differs from the modern (as do all I have ſeen) by having no ſhank: inſtead, was a tongue, ſimilar to thoſe of the common fibulae. The front of this is enameled with deep blue.

No 13. is another, of a very different form. This has alſo loſt its fibulae; but the defect is very apparent.

No 14. is a forceps; an inſtrument much in vogue among the Romans, for extirpating hairs. This was uſed for the ſame purpoſe as the Turkiſh fair do the Ruſma. The pincers here engraven are of great ſize and ſtrength; perhaps uſed by ſome robuſt coxcomb, ſuch as Perſius rallies ſo ſeverely, in his fourth ſatire, for his unbecoming effeminacy.

No 15. 15. ſeem to have been inſtruments of ſacrifice. One end of each is round, and of the form of an olive; and was intended for the uſe of the aruſpices, to inſinuate under the entrails of the victim, and to lift them up for the better inſpection of the parts. The other extremity of the longer is formed into a ſpoon, for the purpoſe of putting the frankincenſe into the cenſer.

ACCORDING to the uncertainty that reigns reſpecting the uſes of the antient inſtruments, I may hazard another conjecture, that they have been chirurgical inſtruments. The rounded ends were the probes; the hollow end of the longer, the ſpoon by which the balm was poured into the wound. The metal of which theſe inſtruments were made, proves, as count Caylus remarks*,

[figure]

[71]that the Romans had no apprehenſions of its dangerous qualities. It is probable, that they had the art of tempering the metal ſo as to prevent the noxious effects.

No 16. is a braſs nail [...]. Antiquaries may rejoice that the Romans preferred this metal to mouldering iron, which has preſerved to them many a delicious morſel.

No 17. tab. ix. is one of thoſe Bullae, or amulets, called Ithyphallus, in form of a heart, with a figure (in which decency was little conſulted) on the upper part. Theſe were ſuſpended from the necks of children, and originally deſigned to preſerve them from the effects of envy; afterwards from all kinds of evil. I cannot help thinking, that the good nurſes had another view, that of attracting (in years of maturity) the affections of the fair towards their little favorite.

Hunc optent generum Rex et Regina; puell [...]e
Hunc rapiant. Quicquid calcaverit hic, Roſa fiat.
Wherever he treads let there riſe up a roſe,
And the ladies die for him wherever he goes.

For it is well known, the obſcene god, in all times, had his votaries among both ſexes.

[72]THESE amulets alſo repreſented the god Faſcinus, ſynonymous with that Deity. Pliny * relates, that he was not only the guardian of infants, but of the emperors themſelves; that the very veſtals worſhipped him; and the victors placed him (the phyſician of Envy) beneath their triumphal cars.

No 18. is a locket with a hole at one end, in order to ſuſpend it round the neck, or faſten it to the wriſt. This, perhaps, was deſigned to hold a charm; and the holes on one ſide intended that the contents ſhould tranſpire, and reach the object of faſcination; whether of love; whether of ambition.

No 19. a key; which gives one no very high idea of the elegance of the Roman lockſmiths.

No 20. is one of a nicer form, and which ſerved both for a ring and key. It poſſibly was deſigned for the cabinet of a Roman lady or ſome Bellus homo.

No 21. two rings; one of braſs, the other of ſilver wire.

No 22. a brazen weight belonging to a maſon's levelling-inſtrument, anſwerable to a modern plummet.

No 23. another of lead, belonging to a fiſhing-net.

No 24. the tongue of an ordinary fibula.

THESE are the ſubjects I thought moſt worthy of engraving: but there were multitudes of other things found in the ſame place; but almoſt all of them ſo mutilated or injured by time, as to be rendered quite unintelligible.

[figure]

[73]ON leaving Flint, FINE PROSPECT. I took the road to Halkin; and immediately on quitting the town, began to aſcend the ſteep ſlope of the county, fertile, and incloſed to the very edge of the mountain, which was parallel with the ſhore. The proſpect improves the whole way; and from the heights expands to the north-eaſt and ſouth, into an almoſt boundleſs one. The eſtuary of the Dee appears beneath, with the city of Cheſter at its extremity. The peninſula of Wiral, a naked contraſt to our country, limits the eaſtern ſide of our ſea; and the weſtern of the Merſey, rich in the commerce of Leverpool; beyond which ſtretches the great county of Lancaſhire, varying with plains and hills. The mountains of Yorkſhire and Derbyſhire unite to bound the VALE ROYAL of England; and the rich and wooded tract about Northop and Hawarden, with its neighboring mountains, bring relief to the eye, tired with the contemplation of the far remote views.

THIS is but part of the magnificent terras formed by the public road, that is continued from Hawarden to Clynnog in Caernarvonſhire, varying continually with matchleſs changes of ſcenery.

THE firſt place of any note which occurs in the pariſh of Halkin, HALKIN. is a hamlet of a number of houſes, called the Pen-tre, or hamlet; a name in Wales common to all ſuch aſſemblages of dwellings, where there is no church; to diſtinguiſh it from Llan, where the place of devotion ſtands. This took its riſe in the preſent century, and was much increaſed by the concourſe of miners, on the diſcovery of a rich vein in the adjacent fields.

ALMOST contiguous, lies Halkin mountain; a vaſt tract, in the pariſh of the ſame name, and in thoſe of Northop, Skeiviog, and Holywell.

[74]THE ſurface is common: the mineral the property of Lord Groſvenour, by virtue of a grant, made in 1634, to his anceſtor, Sir Richard Groſvenour knight, by Charles I. of all the mines of lead or rakes of lead, within the hundreds of Coleſhill and Rudland *. Theſe tracts were before ſet on leaſes for a certain term of years. Thus James I. grants that term to Richard Gwynne, on payment of the annual acknowlegement of ſixty-ſix ſhillings and eight pence; and a new one was granted in 1629, by a warrant from lord treaſurer Weſton, to Richard Groſvenour Eſq Roger Groſvenour his ſon, and Mr. Thomas Gamul, for their joint lives, paying the uſual rent, and a fine of ten pounds.

I APPREHEND that this grant, and another ſimilar, of the minerals in Bromefield and Yale, made to the ſame gentleman, are the firſt alienations of this nature from the crown; which, for many centuries after the Conqueſt, aſſumed the entire claim of all mines and minerals, by virtue of the royal prerogative. Sir John Pettus has preſerved a ſeries of grants, from the reign of Edward I. to that of Henry VII. in which they empower different perſons to ſcarch for ore. Some of them are confined to particular counties, others to the kingdom in general: and the only prohibition is that of working beneath caſtles or houſes; in gardens or meadows; the owners of which were to be indemnified in all damages they might ſuſtain. Richard II. is the firſt prince who makes a general allowance. In his letters patent to Richard Wake, clerk, for ſearching for mines [75] of gold and ſilver in the county of Devon for ten years, the adventurer had power to dig (paying damage to the owner of the ground) as well within liberties as without; and to pay one-tenth of the profit to the Holy Church, and a ninth into the exchequer.

THIS is not the firſt inſtance of the application of the tithe of ore to religious uſes: Edward I. directs the ſame proportion to be payed to the parochial churches in Wales, out of the neighboring mines*. The abby of Baſingwork had alſo a revenue ariſing from the ſame ſource.

I CANNOT find that the owner of the ground, in caſe the mine was diſcovered in private property, was permitted to have any ſhare of the profit, till the fifth of Henry VI. (1426); when the duke of Bedford, regent of France, received a ten years leafe of all the mines of gold and ſilver in the kingdom of England, paying to Holy Church a tenth, to the king a fifteenth, and to the lord of the ſoil the twentieth part. This allotment, though finall, is a proof of the juſtice and moderation that guided the actions of the protector of Henry's infant years.

THESE regal grants were for every ſpecies of metal, excepting iron; for gold and ſilver, copper, tin and lead, and all other metals containing gold and ſilver. Theſe two were the great object; yet the grants do not preclude the royal clame to the baſer kinds.

DURING this reign, the art of refining, or the ſeparation of metals from the ore, was made the ground of an impoſture [76] common enough in after times. There are not fewer than four inſtances of perſons undertaking the tranſmutation of the baſer metals into pure gold and ſilver; each of whom received the royal protection*, to prevent them from being interrupted in their operations: for certain malevolent people ſuppoſed they uſed unlawful arts, i. e. the art magic. In a ſuperſticious age, this ſuſpicion might have proved fatal to the projectors; who wiſely aſſumed the moſt religious term for their myſtery, to obviate the malice of their enemies. The metals were not to be tranſmuted, but tranſubſtantiated ; for they had great reaſon to imagine, that the believers of the word in the religious ſenſe, would hardly contradict the feaſibility of the project in the temporal meaning. Beſides, they were to act under the guiſe of piety; for the adept

muſt be bomo frugi;
A pious, holy, and religious man,
One free from mortal ſin, a very virgin.

We hear nothing of the event of theſe undertakings; but imagine they ended like all others of that nature. The bubble did [77] not die with this weak prince; for in 1476, we find that Edward IV. gave the ſame encouragement to one David Beaupe and John Marchaunt, to have for four years facultatem et ſcientiam philoſophiae artificialem naturalem generationis a mercurio in aurum faciendo, et ſimili modo a mercurio in argentum: the liberty of changing mercury into gold and ſilver*. We hear no more of theſe impoſtures till the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. when they were moſt ſucceſsfully revived.

EDWARD continued the mineral grants to ſeveral great men; among others to the earl of Warwick, the earl of Northumberland, and his brother Richard earl of Gloſter. The farm was now encreaſed; they were to pay the king an eighth neat profit, the lord of the ſoil the ninth, and the curate of the place the tenth.

IN the ſhort and turbulent reign of Richard III. no attention was paid to concerns of this kind; but his ſucceſſor, Henry VII. in his very firſt year, diſcovered his ruling paſſion, avarice, by immediately appointing Jaſper duke of Bedford, and ſeveral other perſons of diſtinction, to be governors of all his mines in England and in Wales, paying to the king the fifteenth of the pure gold and ſilver, and to the lord of the ſoil the eleventh, as it grows.

ELIZABETH was the firſt of our princes who laid the foundation for our mineral ſucceſs, and for all the vaſt manufactures [78] that aroſe in conſequence. I read, that in 1452, Henry VI.*, (poſſibly on diſcovery of the impoſture of metallic tranſmutations) had ſent for, out of Hungary, Auſtria, and Bohemia, three experienced miners, and thirty aſſiſtants, to work his mines; ſo unſkilled were the Engliſh at that time. The civil wars, which broke out immediately after, fruſtrated this wiſe meaſure. Elizabeth reſumed it, being too quick-ſighted not to ſee into the defects and wants of her kingdom. She not only adopted it, but improved on the plan. Our knowlege of minerals was almoſt extinguiſhed, and of courſe the manufactures which depended on them. We imported our ſwords, our knives, ſtirrups, bits, and even our pins, out of Germany, through the channel of the Netherlands. Our works of braſs, and even our wire, excepting a ſmall quantity which was worked by hand, were of foreign fabrick. The firſt ſtep taken by this politic princeſs, was to forbid the importation of theſe and ſeveral other articles, from parts beyond ſea: the next, was to invite into her kingdom foreign miners, foreign ſmelters, and foreign artificers of metallic productions.

SHE next formed a corporation, under the title of THE SOCIETY FOR THE MINES ROYAL. The firſt governor was William earl of Pembroke: ſeveral men of rank were joined in the commiſſion as aſſiſtants, and ſeveral citizens, and ſome foreigners of known experience in theſe matters. She likewiſe framed the ſame members into another corporation, which naturally depended on the former, viz. the SOCIETY FOR THE MINERALS AND BATTERY WORKS. Theſe corporations were founded on May the 28th 1567.

[79]SOME progreſs had been made, a few years before, for the procuring materials for theſe new manufactures; for in 1563, ſhe had granted the mines of eight counties, beſides thoſe in Wales, to Daniel Houghſetter: in 1564, ſhe made another grant to Cornelius Devoſſe; and a third in the ſame year, more comprehenſive than all, to Chriſtopher Shutz, of all mines, minerals, and ſubterraneous treaſures, (except copperas and allum) which ſhall be found in all other parts of England (not mentioned in the former patent) or within the Engliſh pale in Ireland, by the name of gold, ſilver, copper, tin, lead, quickſilver, cadmian ore, or lapis calaminaris; and all manner of ewres or oares, ſimple or pure, mixt or compounded for latten wire or ſteel, &c. To each of theſe patentees an Engliſhman was joined.

IT is worth obſerving, that the crown, in moſt of theſe grants, lays abſolute clame to all mines whatſoever, under a notion that they are royal mines; yet the prerogative could only be entitled to ſuch which yielded gold and ſilver. The origin of this pretence aroſe from the king's right of coinage, in order that he might have the requiſite materials; which would have confined him to the two noble metals. But until the happy period arrived when our conſtitution was eſtabliſhed, and the royal and the private property juſtly diſtinguiſhed, the ſubject was too weak to aſſert his rightful clame. ELIZABETH herſelf was too fond of the darling prerogative (even with all her boaſted love to her people) to reſign this part. Her patent to William Humfrey and Chriſtopher Shutz is worded in the moſt unlimited manner; for it not only gave them power to ſink ſhafts whereſoever they pleaſed (gardens, &c. excepted), [80] but to build houſes requiſite to carry on the works, not only upon the royal demeſnes, but in the grounds of any of her ſubjects. The ſpirited Percies, in the perſon of Thomas earl of Northumberland, firſt withſtood this invaſion of his right. He conteſted with the crown the title to the copper mines in his manor of Keſwick; but the lawyers decided againſt him, alleging, that although the crown had a power to grant away its manors, it had not the power to alienate the mineral, being perfectly linked to the prerogative of the crown.

BUT, as uſual, the gentlemen of the long robe had two opinions reſpecting this point: ſome aſſerting, that if any gold or ſilver was found in the mines of baſer metal, the whole would belong to the king; which, in fact, was beſtowing all the mineral property on the crown, there being ſcarcely any baſe metal but what holds ſome particles of the nobler: others again, in a future reign, qualified this by ſaying, ‘That although the gold or ſilver contained in the baſe metal of a mine, in the hands of a ſubject, be of leſs value than the baſe metal, yet if the gold or ſilver do countervail the charge of reſining it, or be of more worth than the baſe metal ſpent in reſining it, THIS IS A ROYAL MINE; and as well the baſe metal as the gold and ſilver in it, belong to the prerogative of the crown*.’

SUCH was the ſtate of the royal clame; ſo diſcouraging to the induſtry of the ſubject, till the great event of the REVOLUTION, [81] when the crown, in the firſt year of William and Mary, fully gave up all pretenſions to the mines of copper, tin, iron, and lead, notwithſtanding gold or ſilver may be extracted from them in any quantities. By a following act, this right was again confirmed; only the crown reſerved to itſelf a power of purchaſing, within thirty days after raiſing, all ores made merchantable, at the following rates: copper at 16 l. per ton, tin at 40 l. lead at 9 l.; and in default of ſuch payment, the owners were at liberty to diſpoſe of their ore as they pleaſed. Thus, as Mr. BLACKSTON* obſerves, the private owners were not diſcouraged from working mines, through a fear that they may be clamed as royal; neither does the king depart from the juſt rights of his revenue, ſince he may have all the precious metal contained in the ore, paying no more for it than the value of the baſe metal is ſuppoſed to be; to which baſe metal the land-owner is by reaſon and law entitled.

SOME account of the ores and foſſils of the mineral tract, which gave riſe to this digreſſion, will be given when I croſs it again in the courſe of my journey.

FROM Pentre Halkin, I purſued my journey along the Cheſter road: and paſs by the Llan. The church is dedicated to St. Mary; is a neat ſmall edifice, lately re-built, partly by a brief, partly by ſubſcription. It ſtood on the ſite of a church, mentioned in Doomſday book. At the Conqueſt, this tract bore the name of Alchene, from which the preſent name is taken. Brunford, a townſhip now in the pariſh of Holywell, and a place [82] called Inglecroft, at that time were joined to it. Doomſday book ſays, that here was a church and a preſbyter, and three boors; a mill of five ſhillings annual value; and a wood half a league long, and forty perches broad; the whole valued at ten ſhillings.

THE old Britiſh name of this place (ſtill retained by the Welſh) is Lugan, from a ſaint, known, I believe, only in the Welſh calendar.

ABOUT two or three miles farther, in a woody moraſs on the left hand, are the foundations of an antient pile, called Llýs Edwin, or Llýs Llan Eurgain, originally the ſeat of Edwin ap Gronw, lord of Tegangle, about the year 1041. It continued in the family till the death of a deſcendant of his, Howel Gwynedd, who loſt his life in the cauſe of Glendwr; when his forfeited eſtates were beſtowed by Henry IV. on one Bryan Saxton. His poſterity poſſeſſed them till the 17th of Henry VI. who granted them to Sir John Stanley, groom of the bedchamber*. They afterwards became the property of a younger branch of the Stanleys, and remained in their poſſeſſion in the laſt century. I find a Sir Edward Stanley of Flint , married to a daughter of George lord Stanley, about the latter end of the reign of Henry VII. who probably was owner of this place.

I MUST not paſs unnoticed a ſtrong Britiſh poſt, which ſoars above the road,MOEL Y GAER. about two miles to the right. It lies on the ſummit of a hill, and is ſurrounded with a great foſs and dike [83] of a circular form, with an entrance as uſual to ſuch places; and a ſmall artificial mount within the precinct; a tribunal ceſpititium, from whence our antient heroes might deliver their araith or allocutio, to animate their followers againſt the invading ſtrangers. This poſt is called Moel y Gaer, or the hill of the fortreſs; a name common to ſeveral others of ſimilar uſe. This ſeems to have been an out poſt of the Ordovices, in order to defend their country againſt the Roman invaders. We ſhall, towards the end of the volume, have occaſion to mention the chain of poſts along the Clwydian hills, from that next to the ſea, to remote and internal parts. Our anceſtry diſputed the poſſeſſion of their country by inches. Here they lodged their wives and children; to theſe places they drove their cattle out of the low country: they eſtabliſhed in each numerous garriſons ready to ſally forth and repel the foe; or to defend all that was dear to them, ſhould the invaders be hardy enough to attack them in their intrenchments.

IN later times, this ſpot proved fatal to a valiant partizan of Owen Glendwr. Howel Gwynedd (whom we lately mentioned) was ſurprized in a negligent hour, within this poſt, and there beheaded.

NORTHOP,NORTHOP a little town, lies next on the road. It bears the addition of North, to diſtinguiſh it from the other. Hope. The Britiſh name is Llan Eurgain, from St. Eurgen, daughter of Malgwyn Gwynedd, ap Caſwallon Law-hir, ap Enion Yrth, ap Cunedda Wledic, &c. who died in 586.

[84]THE church is dedicated to St. Peter. The body is long and embattled: the tower lofty and handſome. Within are three effigiated tombs; one of a fat knight, whoſe name is loſt, and figure much injured by time. Another of a ſhort warrior, completely armed, and in good preſervation: on his ſhield is a croſs pattée, charged in the middle with a mullet between four others. The inſcription is thus, Hic jacet Ith. Vach. ap Bledd Vach. I ſuſpect him to have been a captain of Inglefield, mentioned in the pedigree of the Humphreyſes of Bodlwyddan, and ſaid to have been interred here. The third is of a lady, inſcribed Llewc * * * *, and anno domini 1402. According to tradition, her name was Lleuci Llwyd, a celebrated beauty of that period; perhaps the ſame who was beloved by a noted bard, who coming to viſit her after long abſence, met with the ſame ſhock as the Chevalier de Rancè did; for each found their beloved in her coffin. The bard fainted at the ſight, revived, and compoſed an elegy on her. The Chevalier retired from the world, and founded the abby of La Trappe, famous for its religious auſterities.

BETWEEN the eighth and ninth ſtone,EULO CATSLE. about a quarter of a mile out of the Cheſter road, are the ruins of Eulo caſtle, placed on the edge of a deep wooded dingle. It is a ſmall fortreſs, conſiſting of two parts: an oblong tower, rounded at the ſide, and guarded on the acceſſible places by a ſtrong wall at ſome diſtance from it: an oblong yard, with the remains of a circular tower at its extremity, forms the other part. The towers are now finely over-grown with ivy, and command the view of three wooded glens, deep and darkſome, forming a moſt gloomy ſolitude.

Figure 9. TOMBS AT NORTHOP

[85]IN the woods near this place, called to this day Coed Eulo, part of the flower of the army detached by Henry II. in 1167, from his camp on Saltney, was ſurprized and defeated by David and Conan, BATTLE. the ſons of Owen Gwynedd, ſent by their father with a ſtrong party from his ramp near Baſingwerk. They ſuffered the enemy to march along the ſtreights of the country, till their forces were entangled in the depth of woods, and the ſteeps of the narrow vallies, ſo frequent in theſe parts. The attack was ſudden, fierce, and unexpected: the Daughter dreadful; and the purſuit carried even to Henry's encampment*. This proved but a prelude to the Engliſh of a ſecond defeat. The king, with an intent to repair the diſgrace, marched forward with his whole army; and at Coleſhill, near Flint, BATTLE OF COLESHILL ſuffered himſelf to be engaged in the ſame difficulties as his detachment experienced before. His forces were again defeated; and Euſtace Fitz John, a baron firſt in rank, wealth, and abilities among the Engliſh; and Robert de Courci, another great baron, with numbers of others, were ſlain. Henry de Eſſex, hereditary ſtandard-bearer, and a man of approved valor, was ſeized with a panic; and flinging down the ſtandard, cried out, that the king was killed! The route would have been general, if the king had not valiantly rallied his forces, and repulſed the Welſh: but in the end, he thought it prudent to withdraw his army, and encamp in a ſecure ſtation. It probably was on the elevated ground of the townſhip of Coleſh [...]ll, at Gadlys, a name ſignificant of the circumſtance, palatiumcaſtrenſe, [86] or the royal head-quarters. He afterwards attempted to cut off the retreat of Owen Gwynedd, by marching along the ſhore, and getting between him and the mountains; but the wiſe prince, penetrating into his views, retired to a plain near St. Aſaph, ſtill called CIL-OWEN, or Owen's retreat; and from thence to a ſtrong poſt, named Bryn y Pin, defended by great Tamparts and ditches. This camp lies in the pariſh of St. George, on a lofty rock above the church, and is now called Pen y Parc.

BRYN DYCHWELWCH*, or the eminence on which Owen pronounced the order, RETREAT! by its name preſerves the memory of the circumſtance. It lies over Pentre Bagilt, below Gadlys, and is ſuppoſed to have been the ſpot from which he retired to Cil-Owen.

A CIRCUMSTANCE, conſequential of this battle, proves, that the report of Edgar's having extirpated the race of wolves out of the principality, was erroneous. A young Welſhman, killed in this battle, was diſcovered eight days after, attended by his faithful dog, who remained by the corpſe the whole time, without food, and defended it from being the prey of birds and wolves.

THERE is no ſort of tradition about the founder of the caſtle of Eulo. Whether it might not have been built by one of the lords of Tegangle, or whether it was erected by Henry to prevent a ſimilar diſaſter, by placing a garriſon here, I [87] will pretend not to determine. It has been for centuries in ruins; for Leland ſpeaks of it as ‘a ruinus caſtle or pile, belonging to Hoele, a gentleman of Flyntſhire, that by auncient accuſtume was wont to give the bagge of the ſylver harpe to the beſte harpir of North Walys, as by a privelege of his anceſtors*.’ The antiquary adds, 'that he dwellith at Penrine in Flyntſhire.' We know of no ſuch place in the county; but ſuſpect that the gentleman intended was Thomas ap Richard ap Howel, lord of Moſtyn, in whoſe family that privilege was long inveſted; that gentleman having been cotemporary with Leland.

THE manor of Eulo was in the crown in the 26th of Henry VIII. who granted it to Peter Stanley eſquire,MANOR. gentleman of his houſhold, with the tolls of the market of Flint In the reign of queen Elizabeth, it was held by Edward Stanley, by payment of 20 l. 10 s. a year. At preſent it is in poſſeſſion of John Davies eſquire, of Llanerch.

WITHIN this lordſhip are very conſiderable potteries of coarſe earthen-ware;POTTERIES. ſuch as pans, jugs, great pots for butter, plates, diſhes, ovens, flower-pots, &c. There are fourteen works, which make annually between three and four thouſand pounds worth. The ware is moſtly exported to Ireland, and the towns on the Welſh coaſt; particularly to Swanſey. There are beſides ſix other works, for the making of fire-bricks, few clays being better fitted for the purpoſe of reſiſting the intenſe heat of the ſmelting-furnaces. Theſe are made of different ſizes; and ſome of [88] thoſe which are called bearers weigh two hundred pounds. Great quantities of tiles for barn-floors, and for rooms, are alſo made here; and the annual ſale of theſe two articles amounts to about twelve hundred pounds.

THIS clay is of a deep aſh color; is found in beds of a great thickneſs; and is dug up in hard lumps, reſembling a ſhaley rock; after which it is left for a conſiderable time expoſed to the air, in order to effect its diſſolution. The bricks made with it are ſet in the lead-furnaces with the unburnt clay, inſtead of mortar.

I muſt not leave the pariſh of Northop without viſiting the maritime parts, which ſtretch along the channel of the Dee. We find there the names of certain townſhips taken notice of in Doomſday book; Lead-brook, Normanized into Lathroc, from the Anglo-Saxon, Laed, and Broca either from the quantity of lead waſhed out of it, or from the ſmelting-works eſtabliſhed on it. This townſhip, after the Conqueſt, was held by Robert of Rudland.

ULFMILTONE was another, now known by the name of Golftyn.

WEPRE, another townſhip, was held by William de Malbedeng, from the church of Cheſter. It is twice mentioned in Doomſday book; and is ſaid to have had on it a wood a league and a half long. In one place mention is made of two villeyns and two boors: in another, of one villeyn and a radman; and that it had been poſſeſſed by one Ernui, a freeman. Of late years, a very handſome pier has been built by the river Dee company in this townſhip, jutting into the channel, for the protection of [89] the ſhips bound to or from Cheſter, under which they may take ſhelter in bad weather or adverſe winds.

FROM hence I aſcended to Hawarden, HAWARDEN. a ſmall town, flouriſhing under the auſpices of its lord, Sir John Glynne baronet. I ſhall ſpeak firſt of the manor and caſtle. The laſt forms a moſt pictureſque object, ſoaring above the woods. This place, like moſt others in our county, bears two names, Pennard halawg, perhaps corrupted from Pen y Llŵch, or the head land above the lake; Saltney, and the other ſubjacent marſhes having once been covered by the ſea. The other name is Saxon, as we find it written in Doomſday book, Haordine; at which time it was a lordſhip; had a church, two Carucae or ploughlands, half of one belonging to the latter; half an acre of meadow; a wood two leagues long and half a league broad. The whole was valued at forty ſhillings; yet on all this were but four villeyns, ſix boors, and four ſlaves: ſo low was the ſtate of population.

IT is probable,ROMAN that this place had been a Britiſh poſt, oppoſed to the country of the Cornavii, and to the invading Romans. To the weſt of the church, in a field adjoining to the road, is a mount called Truman's hill, within a piece of ground which appears to have been ſquared, and nicely ſloped. This evidently had been a ſmall camp, whoſe figure has been much obliterated by the frequency of agriculture. It ſtood on the brow of the hill, and commanded a full view of the country. Another mount, called Conna's. Hê, is to be ſeen near Broadlane houſe. The Rost, an eminence (overlooking another flat) with foſſes, and an exploratory mount, lying in the pariſh of [90] Gresford, was another; and at Caer-Eſtyn, a fourth. We ſhall find occaſion to ſpeak more of theſe in the courſe of our journey.

THE Saxons poſſeſſed themſelves of every ſtrong hold which the Britons or the Romans had deſerted.SAXON. Some they retained, others they neglected, as the policy of the new invaders, and the neceſſity of the ſituation, required. This, before the Conqueſt, was a chief manor, and the capital one of the hundred of Atiſcroſs. On the invaſion of William, it was found in the poſſeſſion of the gallant Edwin, and probably was one of the places of his reſidence. It was a cover to his Mercian dominions againſt the Britons, the natural and inveterate enemies of the Saxon race.

ON the Conqueſt,NORMAN. it was comprehended in the vaſt grant made to Hugh Lupus. It afterwards devolved to the barons of Mont-alto, or Mold, which they held by ſtewartſhip to the earls of Cheſter, and made it their reſidence*.

GENEALOGISTS tell us, that Roger Fitz-valerine, ſon of one of the noble adventurers who followed the fortunes of William the conqueror, poſſeſſed this caſtle; and having frequent conteſts with the Welſh, often ſaved himſelf by retreating to it; and from that circumſtance it was called Howard's Den. But, with high reſpect to all the blood of all the Howards, it does not appear that their name was then known: with more probability does their hiſtorian ſay, that William, the ſon of Fitz-vale-rine, received the addition of de Haward or Howard, from the accident of being born in this place.

[91]ON the extinction of the antient earls of Cheſter, to prevent that honor from being, according to the expreſſion of the time, parcelled out among diſtaffs, this, as well as the other fortreſſes, were reſumed by the crown.CEDED TO LLEWELYN AP GRYFFYDD. In 1264, Llewelyn, prince of Wales, had a conference at this place* with Simon de Montfort, the potent earl of Leiceſter, where they eſtabliſhed peace between Cheſhire and Wales, in order to promote their reſpective deſigns; and in the year following, on June the 22d, Montfort obliged his captive monarch to make an abſolute ceſſion to the Welſh prince, not only of this fortreſs, but of the abſolute ſovereignty of Wales, and the homage of its barons, heretofore paid to Henry. After the ſuppreſſion of Leiceſter's rebellion, Hawardin relapſed to the crown.RELAPSES TO THE CROWN. I muſt obſerve, that in 1267, in the pacification brought about by the Pope's legate Ottoboni, between Henry and Llewelyn, it ſeems as if the caſtle had been deſtroyed; for, among other articles, Llewelyn agrees to reſtore to Robert de Montalto, his lands in Hawarden, and reſtrains him from building a caſtle there for thirty years; probably it was deſtroyed by Llewelyn himſelf, who foreſaw the impoſſibility of his keeping a fortreſs fo near the Engliſh borders. The caſtle muſt ſoon have been rebuilt; for I find in 1280 it was ſtyled Caſtrum Regis.

THAT year was diſtinguiſhed by the general inſurrection of the Welſh, under their prince Llewelyn and his brother David; the great effort of our gallant countrymen to preſerve their liberties and antient mode of government. The attempt was [92] begun by David, at that time newly reconciled to his brother, on March 22d, on Palm-Sunday, in a ſtormy night, which favored his deſign.S [...]E [...]IZED BY DAVID AP GRYFFYDD. He ſurprized this caſtle; put the garriſon to the ſword, and wounded and took priſoner Roger de Clifford, juſticiary of Cheſter. After the death of Llewelyn, and the ſubjection of Wales, David ſuffered for this in a moſt ſevere and diſtinguiſhed manner; being the firſt in England who died as a traitor in the way in uſe at this time. He was a prince of a moſt unamiable character, equally perfidious to his brother, his country, and to Edward, his benefactor and protector. In the writ for his trial (which was before the whole baronage of England) Edward enumerates his kindneſſes to him in this pathetic manner: ‘Quem ſuſceperamus exulem, nutriveramus orphanum, ditaveramus de propriis terris noſtris, et ſub alarum noſtrarum chlamide foveravimus, ipſum inter majores noſtri palatii collocavimus*.’ The laſt proved his greateſt misfortune. He might have pleaded exemption from the Engliſh juriſdiction, and flung a ſtrong odium on the tyranny of the conqueror, had he not accepted a barony, a ſeat among the Engliſh peers. He was in the ſame ſituation as the duke of Hamilton in later times; who denying the power of the court, was told that he was not tried as a Scotch peer, but as earl of Cambridge, a peerage beſtowed on him by his unfortunate maſter.

DAVID was condemned to four ſpecies of puniſhment; to be drawn by a horſe to the place of execution, as a traitor to the king who had made him a knight; to be hanged for murdering [93] Fulk Trigald, and other knights, in this caſtle; for his ſacrilege in committing thoſe murders on Palm Sunday, his bowels were to be burnt; and finally, his body was to be quartered, and hung in different parts of the kingdom, becauſe he had in different parts conſpired the death of the king*.

WE find nothing more of this place till the year 1327, the firſt of Edward III., when Robert, the laſt baron of Montalt, (for want of iſſue) paſſed this manor, and his other great poſſeſſions, to Iſabel the queen-mother; but on her diſgrace, it fell again to the crown.

IN 1337, the king granted the ſtewartſhip of Cheſter, GRANTED TO THE EARL OF SALISBURY. with Hawarden, &c. to William Montacute earl of Saliſbury; but as Iſabel retained a life-intereſt in the grant, he procured her releaſe of it, for the ſum of ſix hundred marks. It continued in his family till the death of his great nephew, John earl of Saliſbury, who was beheaded by the townſmen of Cirenceſter, after an unſucceſsful inſurrection, in 1400, in favor of Richard II. his depoſed maſter. Saliſbury had before granted his eſtates in fee to Thomas Mountague dean of Sarum, Lodowick de Clifford, John Venour, and Richard Hertcombe, and their heirs: but after his attainder, by act of parlement 7th Henry IV. they became forfeited to the king.

IN 1411 it was granted,1411. by patent from Henry IV. to his ſecond ſon Thomas duke of Clarence; but in 1414, the 2d of Henry V. Thomas earl of Saliſbury, ſon to John, petitioned for annulling the former ſentence: his ſuit was referred to another [94] parlement, and then diſmiſſed. Henry then made to Clarence another grant, in which the former was declared to be invalid. In this the advowſon of the living is alſo given.

CLARENCE was ſlain at the battle of Baugy, 1420. in 1420, and died without iſſue. Hawarden returned to Henry V. and from him to his ſon Henry VI. who, in 1443,TO SIR THOMAS STANLEY. granted it to Sir Thomas Stanley, comptroller of his houſhold, and to the heirs male of his body: but in 1450, it was reſumed; and in the next year granted, together with Mold, to Edward prince of Wales. On this occaſion John Hertcombe clamed Hawarden, as heir to the laſt ſurvivor of the four feoffees: he alledging that John earl of Saliſbury was not poſſeſſed of Hawarden at the time of his forfeiture; and on this plea obtained a privy ſeal to enquire into it. An inquiſition was taken; his plea was found to be good; and reſtitution was made. This John Hertcombe levied a fine to Sir Richard Strangeways knight, &c. and John Needham, to the uſe of John Needham and his heirs.

IN 1454, a fine was levied to Richard Nevill earl of Saliſbury, and Alice his wife (daughter to Thomas Montacute, the great earl of Saliſbury) and Sir Thomas Stanley knight, afterwards lord Stanley *, to the uſe of Thomas Stanley, and the heirs male of his body; on condition, that if Thomas Stanley do fell, or ſuffer diſcontinuance, or if he die without iſſue male, it is lawful for the ſaid Richard earl of Saliſbury, or the heirs of Alice his wife, to re-enter. On the death of Lord Stanley, the fee deſcended to his ſon and heir Thomas, afterwards earl of Derby; and after [95] his deceaſe, to his ſecond wife, Margaret counteſs of Richmond, and mother to Henry VII. That monarch, in 1495, honored the place with a viſit, and made ſome reſidence here for the amuſement of ſtag hunting: but his primary motive was to ſoothe the earl her huſband, after the ungrateful execution of his brother Sir William Stanley.

ON the death of Margaret, Hawarden deſended to Thomas earl of Derby, granſon to the late earl; and continued in his family till the execution of the gallant James earl of Derby, in 1651: ſoon after his death, it was purchaſed from the agents of ſequeſtration, by ſerjeant Glynne. On the reſtoration, the Lords made an order, on the 17th of July 1660, that the earl of Derby's. and ſeveral other lords eſtates, which had been ſold in the late uſurpation, without their conſents, ſhould be re-poſſeſſed by them without moleſtation*. This induced Glynne to make an offer to the earl, of the ſurrender of Hawarden, for a leaſe of three lives. The propoſal was either rejected, or not immediately accepted: the conſequence of which was, the loſs of the whole to the Derby family. The Lords, reſentful of the indignities their order had experienced in the late troubles, began with an attempt to obtain reparation to one of the greateſt ſufferers. In the December of the ſame year, they ſent down to the Commons a private bill, for the reſtoring to Charles earl of Derby, all the manors, lands, &c. which belonged to his late father. This was ſtrongly oppoſed; and the bill was laid aſide, without ever coming to a ſecond reading*. The earl was then glad to compound with the ſerjeant for the property of this place, and granted it to him and his heirs; in whom it ſtill remains.

IT appears by theſe proceedings, as if the parlement was fearful of the conſequences of even an act of juſtice; for, during the long troubles, there had been ſuch vaſt change of property, effected by fuch variety of means, that it was apprehended, that the enquiry into the cauſes, and the diſpoſſeſſion of numbers who had quietly enjoyed ſuch property from their fathers, might be attended with the moſt inflammatory conſequences. It is likewiſe probable, that many of the members might be intereſted in the event; therefore, were determined to ſtop at once any proceeding that might tend to affect the fortunes of themſelves or friends. Numbers of ſales were made by the loyaliſts themſelves, under the influence of fear. They were content to receive a trifle for the purchaſe, rather than loſe the whole by violence; for there were very few who had not incurred a premunire under the ruling powers; which they were glad to get clear of by a ſeemingly voluntary ſale. When they were thus diſappointed in the hope of re-enjoyment of their fortunes, they laid the blame on the king, and invented the calumny of his rejecting this bill, after it had been paſſed unanimouſly by both houſes.

DURING the civil wars, this cattle ſuffered the uſual viciſſitudes of fortune. It was firft poſſeſſed by the parlement, and kept for its uſe till the year 1643,BESIEGED IN 1643. at which time a ceſſation of arms being agreed to, on the part of the king, with the Iriſh [97] rebels, a number of the forces were drawn from Ireland, and landed at Moſtyn in this county, in the month of November, Theſe were immediately employed to reduce the caſtle of Hawarden. The garriſon received by a trumpet, a verbal ſummons; which gave occaſion to the following letters between lieutenant-colonel Marrow, and John Warren and Alexander Elliot, the commanders on the part of the parlement. I omit the immediate anſwer to the ſummons, written in the religious ſtrain affected by the party; which Marrow replies to like a true Cavalier.

GENTLEMEN,

IT is not for to hear you preach that I am ſent here; but in his majeſtie's name to demand the caſtle for his majeſtie's uſe: as your allegiance binds you to be true to him, and not to enveigle thoſe innocent ſouls that are within with you; ſo I deſire your reſolution, whether you will deliver the caſtle or no?

The rejoinder from the caſtle was to this effect:

SIR,

WE have cauſe to ſuſpect your diſaffection to preaching, in regard we find you thus employed. If there be innocent ſouls here, God will require their blood of them that ſhed it. We can keep our allegiance and the caſtle too; and therefore you may take your anſwer, as it was in Engliſh plain enough before: we can ſay no more, but God'S will be done*.

*
Ruſtworth II. part iii. 300.

[98] THESE letters had at the time but little weight. Captain Thomas Sandford, leader of the Firelocks, determined to fright them into ſubmiſſion by the terror of his name, or perſuade them, to terms by the powers or his pen; and thus addreſſes the obſtinate commandants:

GENTLEMEN,

I PRESUME you very well know, or have heard, of my condition and diſpoſition; and that I neither give nor take quarter. I am now with my Firelocks (who never yet neglected opportunity to correct rebels) ready to uſe you as I have done the Iriſh: but loth I am to ſpill my countrymen's blood; wherefore, by theſe I adviſe you to your feilty and obedience towards his majeſty; and ſhew yourſelves faithfull ſubjects, by delivering the caſtle into my hands for his majeſty's uſe; in ſo doing, you ſhall be received into mercy, &c. otherwiſe, if you put me to the leaſt trouble or loſs of blood to force you, expect no quarter for man, woman, or child. I hear you have ſome of our late Iriſh army in your company: they very well know me; and that my Firelocks uſe not to parley. Be not unadviſed; but think of your liberty; for I vow all hopes of relief are taken from you; and our intents are not to ſtarve you, but to batter and ſtorm you, and then hang you all, and follow the reſt of that rebellious crew. I am no bread-and-cheeſe rogue, but, as ever, a loyaliſt, and will ever be, while I can write or name

THOMAS SANDFORD, Captain of Firelocks.
[99]

I EXPECT your ſpeedy anſwer this Tueſday night, at Broad-Lane Hall, where I am now, your near neighbour.

To the officer commanding in chief at Hawarden caſtle, and his concerts there.

ALL this eloquence would have been flung away, had not more forces on the ſide of the king, and want of proviſions on that of the garriſon, co-operated with this valiant epiſtle. So, as Ruſhworth ſays, ‘after a fortnight's ſiege, and much ink and little blood ſpilt, the caſtle being in want of proviſions, was ſurrendered to Sir Michael Earnley, on condition to march out with half arms and two pair of colors, one flying, and the other furled; and to have a convoy to Wem or Nantwyche.

THE royaliſts Kept poſſeſſon or it till after the ſurrender of Cheſter to Sir William Brereton in 1645;AGAIN IN 1645. when, on March 17th, O. S. it was taken by major-general Mytton, after a month's ſiege. At that time Sir William Neal was governor, who declined to give it up till he had obtained his majeſty's permiſſion*. On the 22d of December it was by vote of parlement ordered to be diſmantled,DISMANTLED. with four other caſtles in this part of North Wales. Theſe orders extended only to the rendering it untenable; but the farther deſtruction was effected by the owner, Sir William Glynne, the firſt baronet of the name, between the years 1665 and 1678.

THE remains are a fine circular tower or keep,DESCRIBED. on the ſummit of a mount. This alone is pretty entire. Nothing except this, [100] and a few walls, and the foundations of ſome rooms, exiſt at preſent; which Sir John Glynne has, with great pains, laid open by the removal of the rubbiſh. In one place was diſcovered a long flight of ſteps, at the bottom of which was a door, and formerly a draw-bridge, which croſſed a deep long chaſm (nicely faced with freeſtone) to another door leading to two or three ſmall rooms. Probably they were places of confinement, where priſoners might be lodged with the utmoſt ſecurity, after pulling up the bridge over the deep chaſm that intervened between them and open day.

THE ſeveral parts of this fortreſs ſeem to have been built at different times. It is ſurrounded with deep foſſes, now filled with trees. In 1665, the timber of the park and demeſne was valued at five thouſand pounds, and was ſold in that century; but the preſent owner will have the merit of reſtoring it manyfold to the next, by the vaſt plantations he has made.

THE living is in the gift of the lord; who preſents;RECTORY. and the biſhop of Cheſter inducts. The rector does all epiſcopal acts, except thoſe of ordination and confirmation; and has a peculiar exempt juriſdiction: grants licences, regiſters and proves wills; and has his court and his proctors.

THE living is at preſent eleven hundred pounds a year; and, in proportion as the ſubjacent lands are cultivated, will experience a far greater improvement.

THE church is a plain but handſome building, kept in neat and decent repair. The parſonage-houſe is new, and ſuitable to the revenue. The garden is very prettily layed out, upon a high and commanding ground.

Figure 1. HAW [...]RDEN CASTLE

[101]THE pariſh receives two hundred a year from the river Dee company.PAROCHIAL REVENUE. This was granted by act of parlement, in conſideration or eight hundred acres of land, belonging to Hawarden, incloſed on the north ſide of the river, for the uſe of the adventurers in the navigation. This ſum is to be payed to the lord of the manor and other truſtees; and is applicable to any uſes which any five (with the conſent of the lord) ſhall agree on.

IN Broadlane, PICTURES. the manſion-houſe, built by the preſent baronet in 1752, are four portraits of great merit, part of the collection of Sir Konelm Digby. They repreſent the evangeliſts with their reſpective attributes; ſeemingly the production of Valentine, a Ir [...]hman *, who ſtudied the ſtyle of Carravaggio. Theſe are in his beſt manner. The attitudes are fine; and the lights and ſhadows moſt admirably diſpoſed. They are half lengths; a ſize that his great model excelled in.

AMONG the family portraits, are two of the chief juſtice Glyme, the able, political lawyer of the reign of Charles I. and the ſucceeding uſurpation. He was of the houſe of Glynllivon in Caernarvonſhire; which derives itſelf from Cilmin-Troed-ddu, or Cilmin with the black foot, one of the fifteen tribes, and cotemporary with, and nephew to, Merfyn Frych, prince of Wales in the year 818.

SIR JOHN GLYNNE was born at Glyn-llivon in the year 1602;CHIEF JUSTICE GLYNNE. his father was Sir William Glynne knight; his mother a Griffith of Caernarvon. His education was after the beſt mode. His [102] ſchool was that of the college at Weſtminſter; his academic learning was inſtilled into him at Hart-ball, Oxford; and his knowlege of the law at Lincoln's-Inn, where he became a bencher. His abilities were immediately diſcovered by the popular party, by whoſe influence he was made ſteward of Weſtminſter, recorder of London, and twice elected member for the former, in the two parlements of 1640. He was, next to Pym, the moſt active manager againſt the earl of Strafford. The unfortunate peer remarked, that Glynne and Maynard treated him like advocates; Palmer and Whitelock like gentlemen; and yet omitted nothing material that could be urged againſt him*. The author of Hudibras ſeems to catch at this part of the character of theſe two great lawyers:

Did not the learned Glynne and Maynard,
To make good ſubjects traitors, ſtrain hard?

IN the caſe of Strafford, and in that of the impeachment of the twelve biſhops, they acted on principle. This appears evident from the proſecution they afterwards underwent, for the noble ſtand they made againſt the ruin of the conſtitution, planned, and afterwards effected by the army. On September the 8th 1647, they were expelled the houſe, committed to the Tower, and had a charge of high-treaſon brought againſt them. Glynne ſoon determined to ſubmit to the riſing powers. In the next year, he was reſtored to his place in the houſe; appointed one of the ten

Figure 2. THE JUSTICE GLYNNE

[103]commiſſioners for carrying on the treaty with the king in the iſle of Wight; and voted by the houſe to be a ſerjeant at law in the new call it thought fit to make. He, as well as the artful Whitelock, evaded all concern in trial of the king: but afterwards temporized fully with the powers in being. Cromwel ſoon made him one of his council. In 1654, he was conſtituted chamberlain of Cheſter: in the following year, was (on the refuſal of the chief juſtice Rolles) ſent into the weſt with a commiſſion to try colonel Penruddock, and the other inſurgents*. Rolles loſt his place for his ſcruples; and in his room the ſerjeant was rewarded with the office of lord chief juſtice of the upper bench. He was grateful to his patron; for, being appointed of the committee to receive the protector's ſcruples about being made king, he urged the acceptance with the utmoſt zeal. It is amuſing to compare the change of ſentiment, from the year 1648, when the kingly office was voted to be unneceſſary, burthenſome, and dangerous, with the opinion of 1657, when the learned ſerjeant tells Cromwel, that it is eſſential to the ſettlement of the nation. Notwithſtanding the uſurper did not dare to aſſume the name, he mimicked the powers; and honored his advocate with calling him up by writ into his houſe of peers; that motley aſſembly of the year 1657. The prudent lawyer maintained his ground till the year of the reſtoration, when, by a maſter-piece of cunning, he publiſhed in octavo, the arguments he had uſed to prevale with his former maſter to mount the throne, under the title of MONARCHY aſſerted to be the beſt, the moſt antient, and [104] legal form of government. How flattering muſt this have been to the rightful prince, to find the antient mode acknowleged as moſt eligible (even after the long abuſe of it in his family) by one of the ableſt ſupporters of the protectorate?

WHETHER this recommended him to the new government, or whether he had made his peace before, is not certain. He was received by Charles with diſtinguiſhed marks of favor, who not only knighted him, but beſtowed on him the honor of prime ſerjeant, and even created his eldeſt ſon a baronet. In the convention parlement, he was elected for the county of Caernarvon; and was appointed one of the committee for examining the acts paſſed during the late uſurpation, which were inconſiſtent with the preſent government; and how the many fines, recoveries, &c. made in the late courts of law, might be confirmed and rendered good. He had likewiſe a concern in the act of general pardon, and in all others in which the aſſiſtance of an able lawyer was requiſite*.

He retired from the houſe in the following parlement; and lived till the year 1666, when he died in London, and was interred in his own vault, beneath the altar of St. Margaret's church, Weſtminſter

FROM Breadlane the land begins to ſlope towards the Dee. At the bottom, between the fifth and ſixth ſtone from Cheſter, lies Breughten, formerly the property of the Ravenſcrofts, and afterwards that of the Hopes. At the Conqueſt it was called Brochetune; and was held of Hugh L [...]pus, by Robert de Roelent, or [105] Rudland. Levenot, a freeman, poſſeſſed it before. Robert alſo had a manor here, once held by a Saxon of the name of Ulmer.

CLOSE to the village of Breton, lies the large marſh of Saltney, which reaches within about a mile of Cheſter. It is at preſent divided by a moſt excellent road, by whoſe ſide runs a ſmall canal, cut by Sir John Glynne, for the conveyance of his coal into the Dee near the city. This tract was formerly granted, by Robert lord of Mold, to the monks of Baſingwerk, for paſturage; he alſo gave them the ſame privilege in Hawarden, and the liberty of cutting ruſhes for thatching their buildings*.

THE principal part of this common lies in Flintſhire. The boundary is marked by a ſtone near the eaſt end. It extends conſiderably on both ſides. From the right flows the Leeches, a ſmall brook, riſing a little beyond Doddleſton. That place lies out of my rout; yet I mention it, as the place of interment of that honeſt chancellor Egerton lord Elleſmere, who preferred it out of affection to his mother, a native of this village.

ANOTHER, circumſtance leads me to name this pariſh, humiliating as it is to a Welſhman; for at Balderton bridge our countrymen met with a cruel defeat from Hugh Cyvelioc earl of Cheſter; who, by way of trophy, made a rampart of their heads.

AT the extremity of Saltney, within a mile of Cheſter, the land riſes ſuddenly. On the left-hand of the aſcent are conſiderable hollows, with correſpondent elevations: one has the appearance of a round baſtion; which makes me conjecture, that they might have been works deſigned to command this paſs into the country [106] of the Ordovices; for it points towards Varis, Conovium, and Segontium.

CHESHIRE,

A part of the country of the Cornavii, CHESTER. commences on the flat beneath this bank. The road is continued along the ſmall common of Over-leigh, and ends at Han-bridge, the ſuburbs of Cheſter, on this ſide of the river, belonging to the pariſh of St. Mary.

THE acceſs to the city is over a very narrow and dangerous bridge, of ſeven irregular arches, rendered more inconvenient by the antient gateways at each end, formerly neceſſary enough, to prevent the inroads of my countrymen, who often carried fire and ſword to theſe ſuburbs; which were ſo frequently burnt, as to be called by the Britons Tre-boeth, or the burnt town.

I SHALL begin my account of this reſpectable city, by declining the honor of aſſerting it to have been of Britiſh foundation, notwithſtanding I have the authority of Ranulph the Monk, and of Henry Bradſhaw, another religious of this city.

The founder of this city, as faith Polychronicon,
Was Leon Gaure, a mighty ſtrong gyant;
Who builded caves and dungeons many a one,
No goodly building, ne proper, ne pleaſant.
But king Leir, a Britain fine and valiant,
Was founder of Cheſter by pleaſant building,
And was named Guer-leir by the king*.

[107]YET this legend does not err greatly from the right name, Caer Lleon, CAER LLEON. the camp of the legion. Caer Lleon, vawr ar ddyfr Dwy, the camp of the great legion on the Dee, being the head quarters of the twentieth legion, ſtyled alſo Valeria and Victrix. This legion came into Britain before the year 61; for it had ſhare in the defeat of Boadicea by Suetonius. After this victory, the Roman forces were led towards the borders of North Wales, probably into this county. Afterwards, by reaſon of the relaxed ſtate of diſcipline, a wing had been cut off by the Ordovices, juſt before the arrival of Agricola; but the quarters of theſe troops at this period are not exactly known. It is probable that part at leſt were on the Deva; that he collected a few of his forces, and began his march againſt the enemy from this place; and that, after his ſucceſsful expedition into Mona, MONA, &c. he determined to ſix here a garriſon, as the fitteſt place to bridle the warlike people he was about to leave behind him. In conſequence, he fixed part of the legion here, and detachments in the neighboring poſts, before he ventured on the diſtant expedition to Scotland, into which he led part, as appears from the inſcriptions; which prove that a vexillatio of this legion was concerned in building a portion of the Roman wall, In order to encourage the troops he left behind, he formed here a colony; and the place was ſtyled from them, and from its ſituation,DIVANAS Colonia Devana, as is proved by the coin of Septimus Geta, ſon of Severus, which was thus inſcribed:

COL. DEVANA leg. xx. VICTRIX.

[108]IT was alſo called ſimply Deva, AND DEVA. from the river which waſhe [...] one ſide;

The antient hallowed DEE.

THE form of the city evinces the origin to have been Roman, FOURS CHIEF STREETS. being in the figure of their camps; with four gates; four principal ſtreets; and variety of leſſer, croſſing the others at right angles, dividing the whole into leſſer ſquares. The walls, the precincts of the preſent city, mark the limits of the antient. No part of the old walls exiſt; but they ſtood, like the modern, on the ſoft freeſtone rock, high above the circumjacent country, and eſcarpe on every front.

THE ſtructure of the four principal ſtreets is without parallel. They run direct from eaſt to weſt, and north to ſouth; and were excavated out of the earth, and ſunk many feet beneath the ſurface.EXCAVATED The carriages are driven far below the level of the kitchens, on a line with ranges or ſhops; over which, on each ſide of the ſtreets, paſſengers walk from end to end, ſecure from wet or heat, in galleries (or rowe, [...] as they are called) purloined from the firſt floor of each houſe, open in front and baluſtraded. The back-courts of all theſe houſes are level with the rows; but to go into any of theſe four ſtreets, it is neceſſary to deſcend a flight of ſeveral ſteps.

THESE rows appear to me to have been the ſame with the antient veſtibules; and to have been a form of building preſerved from the time that the city was poſſeſſed by the Romans. They were built before the doors, midway between the ſtreets and the [109] houſes; and were the places where dependents waited for the coming out of their patrons*, and under which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expectation. Plautus, in the third act of his Moſtella, deſcribes both their ſituation and uſe:

Viden' veſtibulum ante aedes, et ambulacrum ejuſmodi?

The ſhops beneath the rows were the cryptae and apothecae, magazines for the various neceſſaries of the owners of the Houſes.

The ſtreets were once conſiderably deeper, as is apparent from the ſhops, whoſe floors lie far below the preſent pavement. In digging foundations for houſes, the Roman pavement is often diſcovered at the depth of four feet beneath the modern. The leſſer ſtreets and allies, which run into the principal ſtreets, ſloped to the bottoms of the latter, as is particularly viſible in were Bridge Street; but theſe are deſtiture of the galleries or rows.

IT is difficult to aſſign a reaſon for theſe hollowed ways.GREAT VAULTS, An antient hiſtorian mentions the exiſtence, in his days, of certain vaults and paſſages, of which not a trace, nor even the leſt memory is left, notwithſtanding the moſt diligent ſearch and enquiries have been made. In this cyte, ſays the author of the Polychronicen, ben ways under erthe, with vowtes and ſtone werke wonderly wrought; thre chambred werkes. Grete ſtones I grave with olde [110] mennes names therin. There is alſo JULIUS CEZAR'S name wonderly in ſtones grave, and other noble mennes names alſo, with the wrytynge about; meaning the altars and monumental inſcriptions: but he probably miſtakes the name of Julius Caeſar for that of Julius Agricola; to whom, it is reaſonable to ſuppoſe, ſome grateful memorial was erected. Unleſs theſe hollowed ſtreets were formed by the void left after the deſtruction of theſe great vaults, I can no more account for their formation, than for the place which thoſe antient Souterrains occupied.NEW LO [...]T. None have ever been diſcovered, by the frequent ſinking of cellars for new buildings on the ſite of the old; tradition has delivered no ſuch accounts to us; nor is their exit to be traced beneath the walls in any part of their circumference. The only vaults now known, are of a middle age, and which belonged either to the hotels of the great men, or to the religious houſes diſperſed through the city.

OF the four gates of the city,EAST GATE, ROMAN. one of them, the Eaſt gate, continued till of late years; of Roman architecture, and conſiſted of two arches, much hid by a tower, erected over it in the later days. A few years ago it was pulled down, on account of its ſtraitneſs and inconveniency, to give way to a magnificent gate, which roſe in its place by the munificence of lord Groſvenor. I remember the demolition of the antient ſtructure; and on the taking down the more modern caſe of Norman maſonry, the Roman appeared full in view.

IT conſiſted of two arches, formed of vaſt ſtones, fronting the Eaſt-gate ſtreet and the Foreſt ſtreet: the pillar between them dividing the ſtreet exactly in two. The accurate repreſentation

[figure]

[111]of them by Mr. Wilkinſon, of this city, will give a ſtronger idea of them than words can convey; as alſo of the figure of the Roman ſoldier, placed between the tops of the arches facing the Foreſt ſtreet.

THIS ſpecies of double gate was not unfrequent. The Porta eſquilina *, and the Porte porteſe at Rome, were of this kind. Flores, in his medals of the Roman colonies in Spain , exhibits one on the coins of Merida, the antient Emerita, particularly on thoſe of Auguſtus; which ſhews, that the coloniſts were proud of their gate; and perhaps not without reaſon, as it appears to have been the work of the beſt age. I muſt conclude, that the mode ſeems to have been derived from the Grecian architecture; for at Athens ſtood a Dipylon, or double gate, now demoliſhed§.

THE gate in queſtion faced the great Watling ſtreet road, and near the place where other military ways united. Through this was the greateſt conflux of people; which rendered the uſe of the double portal more requiſite.

THE Roman bath beneath the Feathers Inn, HYPOCY in Bridge ſtreet, is probably ſtill entire; but the only part which can be ſeen, by reaſon of the more modern ſuperſtructures, is the Hypocauſt. This is of a rectangular figure, ſupported by thirty-two pillars, two feet ten inches and a half high, and about eighteen inches diſtant from each other. Upon each is a tile eighteen inches [112] ſquare, as if deſigned for a capital; and over them a perforated tile two feet ſquare. Such are continued over all the pillars. Above theſe are two layers; one of coarſe mortar, mixed with ſmall red gravel, about three inches thick; and the other of finer materials, between four and five inches thick: theſe ſeem to have been the floor of the room above. The pillars ſtand on a mortar-floor, ſpread over the rock. On the ſouth ſide, between the middle pillars, is the vent for the ſmoke, about ſix inches ſquare, which is at preſent open to the height of ſixteen inches. Here is alſo an anti-chamber, exactly of the ſame extent with the Hypocauſt, with an opening in the middle into it. This is ſunk near two feet below the level of the former, and is of the ſame rectangular figure; ſo that both together are an exact ſquare. This was the room allotted for the ſlaves who attended to heat the place; the other was the receptacle of the fuel deſigned to heat the room above, the concamerata ſudatio *, or ſweating-chamber; where people were ſeated, either in niches, or on benches placed one above the other, during the time of the operation. Such was the object of this Hypocauſt; for there were others of different forms, for the purpoſes of heating the waters deſtined for the uſe of the bathers.

I MUST now deſcend towards the bridge, in ſearch of the few further reliques of the antient coloniſts. After paſſing through the gate, on the right, near ſome ſkinners houſes, is a ſmall flight of ſteps, which lead to a large round arch, ſeemingly of Roman workmanſhip. It is now filled with more modern maſonry, [113] and a paſſage left through a ſmall arch of a very eccentric form.ANTIENT POSTERN. On the left, within the very paſſage, is the appearance of another round arch, now filled up. This poſtern is called the Ship-gate, or Hole in the Wall.

THIS ſeems originally deſigned for the common paſſage over the Dee, into the country of the Ordovices, either by means of a boat at high-water, or by fording at low, the river here being remarkably ſhallow. What reduces this to a certainty is, that the rock on the Hanbridge ſide is cut down, as if for the conveniency of travellers. And immediately beyond, in the field called Edgar's, are the veſtiges of a road pointing up the hill;ROMAN ROAD. and which we ſhall have hereafter occaſion to ſay, was continued toward bonium, the preſent Bangor.

IN a front of a rock in the ſame field, and facing this relique of the Roman road, is cut a rude figure of the Dea armigera, MINERVA with her bird and altar.SCULPTURE OR MINERVA. This probably was a ſepulchral monument; for ſuch were very uſual on the ſides of highways; but time or wantonneſs has eraſed all inſcription.

BEYOND this ſtood, paſt all memory, ſome antient buildings, whoſe ſite is marked by certain hollows; for the ground (probably over the vaults) gave way and fell in within the remembrance of perſons now alive. Tradition calls the ſpot the ſite of the palace of Edgar. Nothing is now left, from which any judgment can be formed, whether it had been a Roman building, as Doctor Stukeley ſurmiſes; or Saxon, according to the preſent notion; or Norman, according to Braun *, who, in his antient [114] plan of this city, ſtyles the ruins, then actually exiſting, Ruinoſa domus Comitis Ceſtrienſis. Perhaps it might have been uſed ſucceſſively by every one; who added or improved according to their reſpective national modes.

HAVING had occaſion to mention the name of a departed antiquary, I think fit to acknowlege my obligations for the many hints I have benefitted by, from the travels of that great and lively genius; but at the ſame time lament, that I muſt ſay, I often find him Plus beau que la VERITE. His rapid fancy led him too frequently to paint things as he thought they ought to be, not what they really were. In the ſubject before us, this aſſertion may be ſupported, by his giving three arches to the antient Eaſt gate, and hollow ways to every part of the city; where ſearch, has been made.

THE beautiful altar,ALTAR. in poſſeſſion of Mr. Dyſon, and the ſoldier in the garden or Mr. Lawton, are the only pieces of detached antiquities now ramaining in this city. The firſt is of great elegance, and was erected by Flavius Longus, tribune of the twentieth victorious legion, and his ſon Longinus, in honor of the emperors [...] and Maximian. The father and ſon, who thus expreſſed their gratitude, were of Samoſata, a city of Syria On one ſide is the inſcription, on the oppoſite is a curtain with a feſtoon above. On one of the narrower ſides is a genius with a cornucopia; and on the other is a pot with a plant of the ſuppoſed acanthus, elegantly leaved. On the ſummit is a head included in a circular garland. I fogot to remark, that immediately over the inſcription is a globe overtopped with palm-leaves. If this is not a general compliment to their [115] victories, I ſhould imagine it deſigned to expreſs their particular ſucceſſes in Africa, of which the palm-tree was a known emblem.

THIS was found in digging for a cellar near the Eaſt-gate, on the antient pavement, which conſiſted of great ſtones. Around it were found the marks of ſacrifice; heads, horns, and bones of the ox, roe-buck, &c. and with them two coins; one of Veſpaſian in braſs, with his head, inſcribed IMP. CAES. VESP. AUG. COSS. III. and on the reverſe, VICTORIA AUGUSTI S. C. and a winged Victory ſtanding. The other was of copper, inſcribed round the head, of Conſtantius, FL. VAL. CONSTANTIUS NOB. C. and on the other ſide, GENIO POPULI ROMANI; alluding to a genius holding in one hand a ſacrificing bowl, in the other a cornucopia.

THE other antiquities diſcovered here are now diſperſed; which obliges me to have recourſe to books, in order to place them in one point of view.

THE firſt is the noted altar diſcovered in 1653,ANOTHER. at preſent preſerved at Oxford. It is inſcribed to Jupiter, with the Britiſh epithet Tanarus, or the Thunderer, by the tranſpoſal of the letters r and n in the word Taran. This appears to have been complimentary to the Britons, by adopting the epithet in their language, inſtead of that of Tonans. The inſcription (approved moſt by Mr. Horſely *) runs thus:

[116]
Jovi optimo maximo Tanaro
Titus Elupius Galeria
Praeſens Guntia, Primipilus
Legionis viceſſimae Valentis.
Victricis Commodo et Laterano
Conſalibus votum ſolvit
Lubens merito.

THE word Guntic, in the learned Prideaux and Gale *, is read Gunethae, as if derived from Gwinedd, one of the Britiſh names of North Wales; over which they ſuppoſe Elupius had preſided. This might account for his preference of the word Tanaro, as highly flattering to the vanity of thoſe he governed.

THE next is a ſtatue in poſſeſſion of the late Reverend Mr. Preſcot, STATUE or MITHRAS. with a Phrygian bonnet on his head, a little mantle croſs his ſhoulders, and a ſhort jacket on his body. He is placed ſtanding with a torch in his hands declining. This is ſuppoſed to have been Mithras, or the ſun; a deity borrowed from the Perſians, and much in vogue among the Romans in the ſecond and third century. An inſcription, DEO SOLI MITRAE, has been diſcovered in Cumberland. The Phrygian bonnet marks him for a foreign deity. The declining torch ſhews the funebrious occaſion of this ſtone.

MR. HORSELY mentions another ſtone, diſcovered in digging a cellar in Water-gate ſtreet, in 1729. The inſcription is ſo imperfect, that he ingenuouſly confeſſes, that without the aid of fancy, it cannot be made out.

[117]A FEW bricks, with the number of the legion ſtationed here, fill the liſt of the Roman antiquities of the place. I ſay nothing of the inſcription DEAE NYMPHAE BRIGANTES, preſerved by Mr. Gale, it being juſtly diſputed whether it belonged to this place.

I MUST not omit the moſt valuable memorial which the Romans left,CHEESE-MAKING. in a particular manner, to this county; the art of cheeſe-making: for we are expreſsly told, that the Britons were ignorant of it till the arrival of the Romans. The Ceſtrians have improved ſo highly in this article, as to excel all countries, not excepting that of Italy, the land of their antient maſters.

THE twentieth legion was recalled from Britain before the writing of the Notitia, THE LEGION QUITS THIS STATION it not being mentioned in that work, which was compoſed* about the year 445. It is ſuppoſed alſo to have been drawn from Cheſter before the retreat of the Romans from this iſland, its name being found at Bath among ſome of the lateſt inſcriptions we have. The city muſt not at that period be ſuppoſed to be totally deſerted; it remained occupied by the deſcendants of the legionaries, who partook of the ſame privileges, and were probably a numerous body. Numbers likewiſe, who had married with the native iſlanders, and embraced civil employs, in all likelihood ſtayed behind after the final abdication of Britain by the legions in 448. After this, the city fell under the government of the Britons, till their conqueſt was entirely effected by the new invaders the Saxons.

[118]BRITAIN,SAXON PERIOD. now left defenceleſs, quickly experienced all the calamities that could be inflicted on it from a oreign and barbarous people. While Hengiſt and Horſa poured in their troop [...] upon the ſouth, another ſet of Banaitli landed in Wales, from their ſettlements in the Orcades and the north of [...]tland. Theſe with their allies the Picts, were defeated near Mold, by the Chriſtian Britons. headed by St. Germanus. I mention this out of courſe, merely to ſhew, that the probable reſt that Deva enjoyed for another century, was owing to this victory, which, obtained ſeemingly in a miraculous manner, diſcouraged for a long ſpace any new attempts.

THE fate of this city was at length decided in 607*,ETHELFRID, 607. when Ethelfrid king of Northumbria reſolved to add this rich tract to his dominions. He was oppoſed by Brochmail Yſcithroc king of Pa [...]is; who collected haſtily a body of men, probably depending on the intervention of Heaven, as in the caſe of the victoria allelutanca; BATTLE OF CHESTER. for that end, he called to his aid one thouſand two hundred religious from the great convent of Banger. and poſted them on a hill in order that he might benefit by the [...] prayers. Ethelfrid fell in with this pious corps, and, finding what their buſineſs was, put them to the ſword without mercy. He made an eaſy conqueſt of Brochmail, who, as the Saxon chronicle informs us, eſcaped with about fifty men. It appears that Eth [...]d, after pillaging the city, left it to the former owners, and contented himſelf with the territory, till it was wreſt [...]l [...] his kingdom by that of Merita.

[119]WE are left unacquainted with the hiſtory of this city for a long period. The Britons ſeem to have continued in poſſeſſion of it, and it was conſidered to be the capital city of Venedotia, or North Wales, till it was finally wreſted out of their hands by Egbert, EGBERT, 828. about the year 828, during the reign of the Britiſh prince Mervyn and his wife Eſylht *; which contracted the limits of Wales, during the remainder of its independent exiſtence.

IN a few years after it underwent a heavy calamity from the Danes. THE DANES WINTER HERE, 895. Theſe pirates, the ſcourge of the kingdom, meeting with a ſevere defeat by Alfred the Great, retreated before him; and in their ſlight collecting vaſt numbers of their countrymen, committed the care of their wives, their ſhips, and their booty, to the Eaſt Angles, marched night and day to ſecure quarters in the weſt. They ſeized on Legaceaſter before the king could overtake them. He beſieged them about two days, deſtroyed all the cattle he could find about the town, partly burnt, and partly cauſed the ſtanding corn to be deſtroyed by his cavalry, and ſlew all the Danes whom he found without the walls. Theſe invaders kept poſſeſſion of the town part of the winter; but, compelled by famine, evacuated it the beginning of 895,EVACUATE THE PLACE and took their courſe through North Wales; which the ſame cauſe obliged them ſuddenly to quit.

AFTER the evacuation of the city by the Danes, it continued in ruins till the year 907 or 908; when the Saxon Chronicle, and all our antient hiſtorians, agree, that it was reſtored by the celebrated Ethelfleda .

[120]THIS lady is ſo frequently mentioned in the Mercian hiſtory,HER HISTORY. that it will not be impertinent to give a brief account of her. She was the undegenerate daughter of the great Alfred, and the wife of Ethelred earl of Mercia, under his brother-in-law Edward king of England. On the birth of her firſt child*, ſhe ſeparated herſelf from her huſband, and for the reſt of her days, like an Imazen of old, determined on a life of chaſtity, and devoted herſelf to deeds of arms. She kept on the beſt terms with her huſband: they united in all acts of munificence and piety; reſtored cities founded abbies, and removed to more ſuitable places the bones of long-departed ſaints.

AFTER the death of her huſband, in 912, ſhe aſſumed the government of the Mervan earldom, and the command of the army. She became ſo celebrated for her valour, that the effe [...]inate titles of Lady or Queen were thought unworthy of her. ſhe received in addition thoſe of LORD and KING.

O ELFLEDA potens, O terror virgo virorum
Victrix naturae, nomine digna viri
Tu quo ſplendidior fieres, natura puellam,
Te probitas fecit nomen habere viri.
Te mutare decet, ſed ſelum nomine ſexus,
Tu Regina potens, Rexque trophaea parans,
Nec jam Caeſarei tantum meruere triumphi,
Caeſare ſplendidior virgo virago vale
[121]
ELFLEDA, terror of mankind!
Nature, for ever unconfin'd,
Stampt thee in woman's tender frame,
Tho' worthy of a hero's name.
Thee, thee alone, the Muſe ſhall ſing,
Dread EMPRESS and victorious KING!
E'en Caeſar's conqueſts were out-done
By thee, illuſtrious Amazon!
R. W.

THE heroine appears well to have merited this eulogium. Her abilities and activity were perpetually exerted in the ſervice of her country. She erected a caſtle at Sceargate; another at Briege, the modern Bridgenorth; a third at Tamweorthige, or Tamworth; a fourth at Staefford; a fifth at Eadeſbyrig, now the chamber in the foreſt in Cheſhire; a fifth at Waeringwic, or Warwick; a ſixth at Cyricbyrig, or Chirbury; a ſeventh at Weardbyrig, or Wedſburrow, in Staffordſhire; and an eighth at Rumcof, or Runcorn, in Cheſhire. She took Brecenanmere, or Brecknock, and made its queen priſoner: ſhe ſtormed Deoraby, or Derby; but loſt ſour Thanes within the place: and finally, ſhe reſtored the city of Legerceaſter, after its deſolation by the barbarians; rebuilt the walls; and, as ſome pretend, enlarged the city ſo greatly as to include the caſtle, which before ſtood without the antient precincts. Death put an end to her glorious courſe,DEATH. at Tamworth *, in the ſummer of 922, from whence her body was tranſlated to Glouceſter. Her loſs was regretted by the whole kingdom, and by none ſo ſenſibly felt as by her brother Edward; [122] for ſhe was as uſeful to that wiſe prince in the cabinet as in the field.

EDGAR made this port one of the ſtations in his annual circumnavigation of his dominions.EDGAR, 973. The year 973 is noted for the league he made here with ſix petty kings; who engaged to aſſiſt him by ſea and by land in all his undertakings. This is the fact, as related by the Saxon Chronicle *. The ſame is mentioned, perhaps copied from the former, by Henry of Huntingdon; but Higden, the monk of St. Werburg, to do greater honor to his native city, makes the number of Reguli eight; and adds, that, in token of ſuperiority, Edgar, one day entering his barge, aſſumed the helm, and made his eight tributaries row him from the palace, which ſtood in the field which ſtill bears his name, up the Dee, to the church of St. John, and from thence back to his palace.

IN the following century, the invaſions of the Danes were conducted with ſo much policy as to induce the factious and traiterous nobility of England to riſe and favor their deſigns. Edmund, EDMUND IRONSIDES. ſurnamed Ironſide, took arms to relieve his diſtreſſed country, and carried the war into the northern counties, among which lay the principal partizans of the invaders: whoſe country he ravaged, in reſentment of their treaſon. This city is mentioned among thoſe which ſuffered. Edmund, by the perfidiouſneſs of his own people, was conſtrained to leave both the Mercian and Northumbrian kingdoms in poſſeſſion of Canute; CANUTE, 1016. who, in the famous partition of England [123] between theſe rival princes, in 1016, retained thoſe parts for his own ſhare.

ON the reſtoring of the Saxon line, it reverted, with the reſt of the Mercian province, to its old maſters. Leofric, a munificent nobleman, was at that time governor of Mercia, and earl of Cheſter. Theſe earls were not created, but merely official. He died 1057,1057. and was ſucceeded by his ſon Alfgar or Algar, a turbulent nobleman; who engaging in rebellion, aided by the Welſh prince Gryffydd ap Llewelŷn, was twice deprived of his earldom, and was once pardoned. After his ſecond deprivation, he obtained again the province by dint of arms, aſſiſted by Gryffyd and a Norwegian fleet. He died ſoon after, and was interred in Coventry, where the earls of Mercia had their principal ſeat.

HIS eldeſt ſon Edwin ſucceeded;NORMAN CONQUEST, 1066 in whom ended the race of earls of Cheſter of Saxon blood. After the battle of Haſtings, he ſled, with his brother Morkar earl of Northumberland, to London, with a view of the crown, vacant by the death of Harold. Being diſappointed in his hopes, he took his ſiſter Algytha, widow to the ſlain monarch, and ſent her to Cheſter; and endeavored to eſcape to Malcolm king of Scotland, but was intercepted by the way and ſlain.

ENGLAND now experienced a total change of maſters. The conqueror, in order at once to ſecure his new dominions, and to reward his followers, beſtowed on them the lands of the noble Saxons. He wiſely divided the provinces, which had hitherto been ruled by a few great men, into leſſer portions; and by this means broke the power which before often braved the throne. Mercia, heretofore under the government of a duke or [124] earl,POST-CONQUEST EARLS OF CHESTER and ruled by what was called, in the Saxon phraſe, the Merchenlege, received in many caſes a diſtinct maſter. Cheſhire fell to the ſhare of Gherbod, a valiant Fleming. By misfortune he fell into the hands of his enemies (being called into Flanders) ſoon after he had taken poſſeſſion of his new territories, and by reaſon of a long captivity was obliged to reſign them to another. The Conqueror, in his place, appointed Hugh de Aurange, better known by the name of Hugh Lupus; the firſt Norman earl of Cheſter who ever poſſeſſed the county. To him he delegated a fulneſs of power; made his a county palatine, and gave it ſuch a ſovereign juriſdiction, that the antient earls kept their own parlements; and had their own courts of law, in which any offence againſt the dignity of the ſword of Cheſter was as cognizable here, as the like offence would have been at Weſtminſter againſt the dignity of the royal crown; for William allowed Lupus to hold this county tam liberè ad gladium, ſicut ipſe REX tenebat Angliam [...]d coronam. The ſword by which he was inveſted with this dignity is ſtill to be ſeen in the Muſeum, inſcribed Hugo comes Ceſtriae. Another inferior office was alſo held by the earls, by virtue of this ſword; that of ſword-bearer of England at the times of coronation*.

LUP [...]S inſtantly took poſſeſſion of his dominions. It is probable that he was inveſted in them by William himſelf; for we find the Conqueror at Cheſter in perſon in 1069, where he repelled the Welſh, and finally reduced the Mercian province, which appears to have been in arms to this period. At the ſame time reſtored [125] the walls and built the caſtle; the former having either fallen into decay ſince the days of Ethelfreda, or were not thought ſufficiently ſtrong for the exigencies of the times.

As ſoon as Lupus was firmly eſtabliſhed, he began to exert his regal prerogatives. He formed his parlement by the creation of eight barons, viz. Nigel baron of Halton; Robert, of Montalt; William Malbedeng baron of Nantwich; Vernon, of Shipbrook; Fitzhugh, of Malpas; Hamon de Maſſie Venables, of Kinderton; and Nicholas, of Stockport. Theſe were to aſſiſt the earl with their advice: Ego comes HUGO et mei BARONES, was the form of his writs. They were obliged to pay him attendance, and to repair to his court to give it the greater dignity. They were bound, in time of war with Wales, to find for every knight's-fee a horſe with capariſon and furniture, or two without furniture, in the diviſion of Cheſhire. Their knights and freeholders were to have corſelets and habergeons, and were to defend their lands with their own bodies. Every baron had alſo four eſquires; every eſquire one gentleman; and every gentleman one valet*. Each of theſe barons had alſo their free courts of all pleas and ſuits, and all plaints, except what belonged to the earl's ſword. They had beſides power of life and death. The laſt inſtance of the exertion of this power was in the perſon of Hugh Stringer, who was tried for murder in the baron of Kinderton's court, and executed in 1597.

THE earls had their chamberlain, which ſupplied the place of chancellor; an office continued to this day. The firſt we [126] know of was Philippus Camerarius, who took his name from his office, in the time of Randle Gernouns earl of Cheſter. Here is a baron of the exchequer, and other officers conformable to thoſe of the crown at Weſtminſter: alſo juſtices, before whom the cauſes which of their nature ſhould otherwiſe belong reſpectively to the courts of king's-bench and common-pleas, are triable*.

IN imitation of regal power, the earls appointed a high conſtable of Cheſhire, correſpondent to the high conſtable of England; which was held in fee by the baron of Halton, who by virtue of this office took place of the other barons; and the baron of Montalt had precedency (after him) by virtue of his office in fee, of high ſteward.

ROBERT DE ROTHELENT was another baron, who was commander in chief of the forces in Cheſhire, and prime governor of the county under his couſin Hugh Lupus. As his office and rank dropt with him, he is not reckoned among the barons. Probably the office was found unneceſſary, and claſhing with the priveleges of the high conſtable.

THIS ſpecies of government continued from the Conqueſt till the reign of Henry III. a period of about 174 years; when, in 1237, on the death of John Scot (the ſeventh earl of the Norman line) without iſſue male, Henry took the earldom into his own hands, and gave the daughters of the late earl other lands in lieu; unwilling, as we ſaid, that ſo great an inheritance ſhould be parcelled out among diſtaffs. THE EARLDOM RESUMED BY THE CROWN. The king beſtowed the county [127] on his ſon Edward, who did not aſſume the title; which he afterwards beſtowed on his ſon Edward of Caernarvon, firſt Engliſh prince of Wales.

AFTER the reſumption of the earldom by the crown, the government of the city aſſumed a new form; for in the year 1242, the 26th of Henry III. it appears to have firſt been under the directions of a mayor and ſheriffs. The mayor ſeems to have been the ſubſtitute for the conſtable; an office which, during the period of the Norman earls, was, under them, ſupreme in all matters military and civil, in both city and county. The ſheriffs ſeem to have been a new name for bailiffs, who acted under the former*.

AFTER giving a general idea of the ſtate of this place and county to the time of Henry III. I ſhall return to the time of Hugh Lupus, and give, to the beſt of my power, a brief chronological account of its hiſtory; leaving the eccleſiaſtical part to be treated apart.

IN the days of that potent earl, and probably long before he was poſſeſſed of this city, it enjoyed by preſcription divers priveleges.GUILD MIRCATORY. It had a guild mercatory , analogous to a modern corporation; ſo that no perſon who was not of that ſociety could exerciſe any trade or carry on any commerce within its precinct. Such was the ſtate in which the Normans found it; which the earls afterwards confirmed under their ſeals.

Two overſeers, ſelected out of the moſt reſpectable citizens, were appointed to maintain the rights of this guild. They received, [128] for the uſe of the city, all the cuſtoms paid by ſtrangers, unleſs at the fairs, which in thoſe days were ſaid to have been held three times in the year. Theſe officers were probably of the ſame nature as the deans of guild in Scotland. It appears alſo from the Doomſday book, that here was a ſupreme officer, called the Prapeſitus Regis, or provoſt, who had the care both of the civil and commercial intereſts.

IT is difficult to ſay at this time what were the articles of exportation, excepting ſlaves and horſes.EXPORTS. SLAVES. The firſt barbarous traffic was carried on by the Saxons to a great height. The deſcription of the mart is an exact picture of the negro commerce* at preſent; ſo little have we emerged from barbariſm in that inſtance.

HORSES were another article;HORSES, HIDES, &c. but their exportation was prohibited, excepting they were deſigned for preſents, by a law of Athelſtan. But theſe, as well as ſeveral others, ſuch as metals, hides, dogs, and chalk, were probably ſtill exported, as in the [129] times of the Romans. Cheſter was, admirably ſituated for ſupplying all theſe articles, excepting the laſt. The frequent wars carried on with the Welſh, furniſhed them with ſlaves; if thoſe were wanting, their neighbors of the Northumbrian kingdom were ready to diſpoſe of their neareſt relations*. The rich plains of Cheſhire furniſhed horns and hides; and the Cambrian mines, lead and copper.

CHEESE muſt not be omitted,CHEESE. as a moſt important article; for the Britons made ſo great a progreſs in the arts of the dairy, that even under the Roman reign there was great exportation of cheeſes for the uſe of the Roman armies; in which this county doubtleſsly had the greateſt ſhare.

THE imports were the ſpices and other luxuries of the eaſt,IMPORTS. procured either from Venice, or afterwards from the cities of Piſa and Amalphi , the magazines of the precious Aſiatic commodities.

CLOTH was brought from Flanders, and linen from Germany CLOTH. LINEN. RELIQUES.; reliques and eccleſiaſtical finery from Italy , the ſtaple of ſuperſtition. Rich armour was another conſiderable article; for war and religion created in theſe ages the moſt important commerce of the ſtate. The warriors and the ſainted images were the beaux of the time; the crimes of the former were ſuppoſed to be readily expiated by proſtration to the latter; and acceptance was announced by the prieſt in proportion to the value of the offering.

[130]FRANCE and Spain ſupplied them with wine;WIX [...]. and the diſcovery made towards the north by Ohthere, under the directions of Alfred, FURS gave us furs, whale-bone, feathers, walruſes teeth, and other articles from that cold region. Martins ſkins are twice mentioned in the Doomſday book, among the imports of Cheſter. Ireland might alſo ſupply them with furs, and ſeveral other commodities; this being the channel of communication on that ſide of the kingdom, and the great mart for the Iriſh commodities. A ſenſible but uncouth poem, about the year 1430, publiſhed in Hakluyt, i. 199, gives us a liſt of its articles of commerce.

Hides and fiſh, ſalmon, hake, herringe,
Iriſh wooll, and linnen cloth, faldinge,
And marterns good be her marchandie,
Hertes hides and other of venerie.
Skinnes of otter, ſquirrel, and Iriſh hare
Of ſheepe, lambe, and foxe, is her chaffare,
Felles of kiddes, and conies great plentie.

It is certain that Cheſter had long been a celebrated port. It appears to have been a ſtation for the Saxon navy; and frequently the ſeat of the court of the Mercian kingdom, both during the Heptarchy, and after it became a province at the general union under Egbert.

THE ſtate of this city, in the time of Edward the Confeſſor, and at the Conqueſt, muſt be collected from the famous ſurvey the Doomſday book.

[131]IT appears, that in the time of the Saxon monarch here were four hundred and thirty-one houſes which were taxable, beſides fifty-ſix that belonged to the biſhop: that it yielded ten marks of ſilver and a half; two parts to the king, and the third to the earl: that whenever the king came in perſon, he clamed from every plough-land two hundred heſthas, one cuna of ale, and one ruſca of butter*: that if any perſons made bad ale, they were either to ſit in a chair full of dung, or pay four ſhilings: that there were twelve judges in the city, and ſeven mint-maſters: that whenever repairs were wanting for the walls or the bridge, notice was given for one man out of every hide-land in the county to appear; and in caſe of abſence, he was fined forty ſhillings, to be divided between the king and the earl: and that the city was ſo depopulated at the time that Hugh Lupus took poſſeſſion, that there were two hundred and five houſes fewer than in the time of the Confeſſor.

IT is probable that the city ſoon emerged from its calamities, and felt a conſiderable increaſe under its new maſters, a more poliſhed race; for the Normans affected as much elegance in their dreſs and their buildings, as they did temperance in their meat and drink. The example of a magnificent warrior, ſuch as the new earl, was quickly copied. His court, and that of his ſucceſſors, rendered it the moſt conſiderable place in theſe parts.

[132]ACCORDING to Lucian *, a jolly monk who flouriſhed about the time of the Conqueſt, its commerce was very conſiderable. He ſpeaks of the ſhips ‘coming from Gaſcoign, Spain, Ireland, and Germany, who, by GOD'S aſſiſtance, and by the labour and conduct of mariners, repair hither and ſupply them with all ſorts of commodities; ſo that being comforted with the favour of GOD in all things, we drink wine plentifully; for thoſe countries have abundance of vineyards.’

HERE,1159 in 1159, Henry II. and Malcolm the IVth of Scotland had their interview; and the important ceſſion was made to Henry by the latter, of the three counties of Northumberland, Cumberland, and Weſtmoreland, formerly wreſted from the Engliſh crown.

BALDWIN, archbiſhop of Canterbury, 1188 in 1188, viſited this place, in his road from Wales, where his zeal led him to recommend the Croiſade to the mountaneers, aſſiſted by the eloquent and vain Giraldus. All the hiſtorian takes notice of in this reſpectable city is, that Conſtance counteſs of Cheſter kept a herd of milch hinds, made cheeſes of their milk, and preſented three to the archbiſhop: that he ſaw an animal, a compound of an ox and a ſtag; a woman born without arms, who could ſew as well with her feet as others of her ſex did with their fingers; and finally, that he heard of a litter of whelps begotten by a monkey. As Giraldus was a great dealer in preſages, it is wondrous he made no uſe of all theſe portents: probably no [133] ſignal event happened in theſe parts in his days, to which they could be applied.

THE next remarkable occurrences were the ravages of Llewelyn ap Gryffydd, 1255. prince of Wales, who carried fire and ſword to the very gates of Cheſter, and deſtroyed every thing around on both ſides of the river; provoked by the cruel injuries his ſubjects ſuſtained from Geffrey Langley, lieutenant of the county under prince Edward *.

THIS city ſeems to have been a conſtant rendezvous of troops, and place d'armes for every expedition on this ſide of the kingdom, from the times of the Normans to the conqueſt of Ireland by William III. In 1257, Henry III. ſummons his nobility to attend with their vaſſals at Cheſter on a certain day, in order to invade Wales, and revenge the inroads of the Welſh; and the biſhops were at the ſame time required to appear there on the ſame occaſion.

EDWARD I. in 1275,1275. appointed this city as the place of receiving the homage of Llewelyn; to which that high-ſpirited prince deelining to ſubmit§, brought on the war, which concluded with the deſtruction of him and his principality.

AND in this city was received,1300. in 1300, the final acknowlegement of the Welſh to the ſovereignty of England, by Edward of Caernarvon prince of Wales, when the freeholders of the country did homage and fealtie for their reſpective lands.

[134]RICHARD II.1397. viſited the capital of his favorite and loyal county; and did it the diſtinguiſhed honor of converting it into a principality, and annexing to it the caſtle of Holt, the lordſhip of Bromefield and Yale, Chirkland, and ſeveral other places in Wales and on the borders. But Henry IV. in his fourth year, reſcinded an act that incroached ſo much on the dignity of his ſon as prince of Wales *.

HENRY IV. in 1399,1399. ſeized the city and caſtle, in his way to Flint againſt his ill-fated monarch Richard II. and on his return ſecured him for one night in the fortreſs; and barbarouſly put to death Sir Perkin a Legh, and other gentlemen, whom he took with their unfortunate maſter.

DURING the inſurrection of Glendwr, this city was made a rendezvous of the royal forces, and a place d'armes. It does not appear that our countryman ever made any attempt on it, notwithſtanding numbers of the gentry of this gallant county favored his cauſe. But the country was unhappily divided; and continued ſo during the civil wars that raged between the houſes of York and Lancaſter. The ſpirited Margaret, in order to keep up the intereſt of her party, made a progreſs into the county in 1455, and viſited this city.1455. In 1459,1459. ſoon before the battle of Bloreheath, ſhe made another, and took with her the Meek Uſurper, her huſband Henry VI. and her ſon Edward. She kept a public table wherever ſhe went; and beſtowed on the Cheſhire gentlemen, that eſpouſed her cauſe, little ſilver ſwans, the badge [135] of the young prince, as the cogniſance of the Lancaſtrians *. She appointed James lord Audley to command the Cheſhire forces. Michael Drayton gives an animated deſcription of the effects of civil diſcord on this occaſion: he acquaints us that Audley

So labour'd, till that he had brought
That t'half of one houſe gainſt the other fought.
So that two men ariſing from one bed
Falling to talk, from one another fly;
This wears a white roſe, and that wears a red;
And this a YORK, that LANCASTER doth cry:
HE wiſh'd to ſee that AUDLEY well had ſped;
He prays again to proſper SAL'SBURY.
AND for their farewel, when their leaves they take,
THEY their ſharp ſwords at one another ſhake.

DANIEL KING tells us, that Edward prince of Wales, ſon to Edward IV. came to Cheſter before Chriſtmas 1475,1475. and was immediately conveyed to the caſtle with great triumph. Edward muſt have deſigned this only as a compliment to his friends in theſe parts, his ſon being at this time a child of four years of age. Such marks of royal favor were not unfrequent. Henry VII. and his queen came here in 1493;1493. and Henry ſent his ſon Arthur to viſit the place in 1497.1497.

THIS city had alſo its ſhare in the calamitous diſtempers of the times. In 1506,1506. it was viſited by that endemic diſorder the ſweating-ſickneſs, which deſtroyed, in three days, ninety-one houſeholders. The remark, of this deſtroying-angel's reſpect to the female ſex, was verified here; for only four periſhed.

[136]IN 1517,1517. it was followed by the peſtilence, when ſuch numbers died, and ſuch numbers fled, that the ſtreets of the city were overgrown with graſs.

IT appears that the citizens of Cheſter were not leſs celebrated for their dramatic performances than thoſe of Coventry *.1529. They exhibited two ſpecies; one formed upon moral romance, the other on ſcriptural hiſtory. In this year they enacted at the high-croſs the play of Robert kyng of Cicyle, or Robert le Dia [...] borrowed from the French morality of that name.

Here i [...] of kyng Robert of Cicyle,
Hou pride did him beguile.

ROBERT, like another Nebuchadnezzar, thought himſelf beyond the power of any being, divine or human. Heaven, in order to humble him, cauſes a deep ſleep to fall on him in church: when the congregation is diſmiſſed, an angel aſſumes his form, and deceives his attendants, who follow the angelic king into the palace, where he takes Robert's place. Robert awakes; runs to his palace; is diſowned; ſeized as an impoſtor, and at laſt appointed fool of the hall to the new king; and,

Clothed in lodly garnement
With ffoxes tayles mony aboute
Men mihte him knowen in the route.

[137]After a very long and ignominious penance, the angel finds Robert effectually cured of his preſumption, quits his miſſion, and reſtores the poor king to his throne.

THE year 1532 reminds me of the religious dramas being performed in this city.1532. WHITSON PLAYS. Theſe are the famous interludes known by the name of Myſteries, originally compoſed in the years 1327 and 1328, by Randal Higgenet, a monk of Cheſter abby, as this prologue acquaints us.

Reverend lords and ladyes alle,
That at this tyme aſſembled be;
By this meſſauge underſtond you ſhall,
That ſome tymes ther was mayor of this citie
Sir John Arnway. knight; who moſt worthilye
Contented hymſelfe to ſet out in playe
The deviſe of one Dane Rondall, moonke of Cheſter abbey.

RONDAL, it ſeems, firſt compoſed theſe Myſteries in Latin and took true pains to obtain leave to exhibit them in an Engliſh dreſs, having made three journies to Rome for his Holineſs's permiſſion*. Others again were the labors of Sir Henry Frances, another monk, as appears by the proclamation for the Whitſon plays in this year, made by the clerk of the Pentice, ſetting forth, that in

Oulde tyme, not only for the augmentation and increes of the holy and catholick faith, and to exort the minds of the common people to good deuotion and holſome doctrine, but alſo for the comonwelth of this citty, a play and declaration [138] of divers ſtoryes of the Bible, beginning with the creacion, and fall of Lucifer, and ending with the generall judgement of the world, to be declared and played in the Whitſonne weeke, was deviſed and made by Sir Henry Frances, ſometyme moonke there; who gat of Clement, then buſhop of Rome, 1000 dayes or pardon, and of the buſhop of Cheſter at that tyme, 40 dayes of pardon, to every perſon reſorting in peaceable maner to heare the ſayd playes; which were inſituted to the honor of God by John Arnway, then major of Cheſter, his brethren and whole cominalty thereof; to be brought forth, declared, and played, at the coſt and charges of the crafteſmen and occupations of the ſayd citty, &c. &c. *.

THESE plays had probably been dropt for a conſiderable time; which occaſioned the proclamation, in the reign of that pageant-loving prince Henry VIII. Forty-three years had elapſed ſince the laſt performance of this nature, when the Aſſumption of our Lady was played before his brother Arthur, at the abbygates of this city.

THESE Myſteries were the rude origin of the Engliſh theatre. Our drama, as the very ingenious Mr. Warton remarks, was in early times confined entirely to religious ſubjects; and theſe plays were nothing more than an appendage to the ſpecious and mechanical devotion of the age. I refer the reader to that gentleman's amuſing hiſtory of the riſe and progreſs of theſe performances; and confine myſelf to a few ſpecimens of the groſs and ridiculous exhibitions of the times; when the audience liſtened with [139] the fulleſt admiration and devotion to what would at preſent fill a theatre with laughter from the gay, at the abſurdity, or ſcandalize the ſerious part, with the (unintentional) impiety. I ſhall only premiſe, that the ſcene of action was the church, in defiance of the fulminations of the furious Bonner, and the pious G [...]indal.

THESE plays were twenty-five in number. They were performed for above three centuries, to the ſtaring audience; who received the unvaried ſubject with the ſame annual pleaſure as the Romans did the farces in their days of honeſt ſimplicity.

Tandemque redit ad pulpita notum
Exodium, cum perſonae pallentis hiatum
In gremio matris ſormidat ruſticus infans.
Juv. Sat. iii.
The ſame rude ſong returns upon the crowd,
And by tradition is for wit allow'd.
The mimic yearly gives the ſame delights,
And in the mother's arms the clowniſh infant frights.
DRYDEN.

They do not appear to us in the words of the original deviſer: but, the language and the poetry being grown obſolete, they were altered to that of the time, for the performance of the year 1600, and were acted by the craftſmen of the twenty-five companies, who were all dreſſed in ſuitable habits.

1. THE Tanners performed the play or pageant of the Fall of Lucifer; and in the courſe of the prologue are thus inſtructed:

[140]
NOWE, you worſhippfull Tanners, that of cuſtome olde
The fall of Lucifer did ſette out:
Some writers a warrante, your matter therfor be ſhoulde
Craftelye to playe the ſame to all the rowtte;
Your authour his auther hath: your ſhewe let it be
Good ſpeech, ſyne players, with apparrill comelye.

SHAKESPEAR certainly formed his perſonae dramatis of mechanics, his Quinees, Snugs, Snouts, and Starvelings, in the Midſummer-Night's Dream, from performers of this kind.

2. THE Drapiers enacted the Creation of the World. Adam and Eve appeared literally naked, and were not aſhamed, till after the fall, when they propoſed, according to the ſtage-direction, to make themſelves ſubligacula a foliis, quibus tegamus pudenda, and made their appearance with an apron of fig-leaves, ſticking religiouſly to the account given in the third chapter of Geneſis.

3. THE Water leaders and drawers of the Dee, took, with great propriety, the Hiſtory of the Deluge; which being handled in a very diverting manner, I ſhall tranſcribe as a pattern of the reſt. Their prologue tells them, ‘that Noe ſhall goe into the arke, with all his femylye, his wyfe excepte.’ After the long catalogue of birds, beaſts, &c. which are ſuppoſed to have entered the veſſel, Noah thus calls to his ſpouſe:

NOYE*.
Wyfe, come in, whie ſtands thou there?
Thou art ever froward, that ſure I ſweare;
Come in on God's half, tyme it were,
For feare leſt that wee drowne.
[141]NOYES Wief.
You Sir, ſett up your ſayle,
And rowe forth with evill hayle;
For, withouten land fayle,
I will not out of this grove.
But I have my goſſopes evry ech one.
One fote further I will not gone;
They ſhall not drown, by Saint John,
And I maye ſave ther lyves.
They loved me full well by Chriſt;
But thou wilt lett them into thie cheſt,
Ellis row forth maye when thou liſte,
And get thee another wief.
NOYE.
Sem, ſonne, nowe thie mother is war o woe,
By God faith another I doe not knowe.
SEM.
Father, I ſhall fetch her in, I trow
Withouten anie faile.
Mother, my father after thee ſends,
And biddes thee into yonder ſhip wends;
Look upe and ſee the winds,
For we bene readie to ſayle.
NOYE'S Wief.
Sonne, go agayne to him, and ſaye,
I will not come therein to daye.
NOYE.
Come in, wief, in twentie devill waye,
Or allis ſtand there without.
CHAM.
Shall we all ſetch her in?
[142]NOYE.
Yea, ſonnes, in Chriſt's bleſſing and mine,
I would ye hied yea be tyme;
For of this flood I ſtand in doubt.
THE GOOD GOSSOPES.
The flood comes fleeting in apace,
One every ſide it ſpredeth full fare;
For feare of drowning I am agaſt.
Good geſſopes, let us draw neare,
And let us drink are we depart;
For ofte tymes we have done ſo:
For at a draught thou drinks a quart,
And ſo will I doe or I goe.
Here is a pottell, full of malmeſay good and ſtrong;
It will rejoyce both hart and tong;
Though Noy think us never ſo long,
Yet wee will drink a tyte.
JAPHET.
Mother, we pray you altogether;
For we are here your owne children;
Come into the ſhip for feare of the wedder,
For his love that you bought.
NOYES Wief.
That I will not far all your call,
But I have my goſſopes all.
SEM.
In faith, mother, yet you ſhall,
Whether you will or mongſt.
NOE.
Well me wief into this boate.
NOE'S Wyfe.
Have you that for thie note. [Gives Noah a box in the car.]
[143]NOE.
A ha, Mary! this is whote:
It is good for to be ſtill.
A, children! methink my boat remeves;
Our tarrying here heughly me greves:
On the land the water ſpreads:
GOD doe as he will.

4. THE Barbers and Wax-chandlers told how Abraham returned from the ſlaughter of the four kings, &c.

5. THE Cappers and Linen-drapers took up the ſtory of Balaam and his aſs; and make the prophet accoſt his beaſt in terms too low and ludicrous to be repeated. This animal had far greater reſpect paid it in a neighboring kingdom; for feaſts were held in honor of it. The ſeſta aſinaria, or feaſts of aſſes, were celebrated in France in the beginning of the fifteenth century*; when the beaſt, covered with a cope, was introduced into church, attended by the clergy, and ſaluted with the following hymn:

Orientis partibus
Adventavit aſinus
Pulcher et fortiſſimus
Sarcinis aptiſſimus.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Hie in Collibus ſicſen
Enutritus ſub Ruben
Tranſſit per Jordanem,
Saliit in Bethleem.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Saltu vincit hinnulos
Dagmas et capreolos,
Super Dromedarios
Velox Madianeos.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Aurum de Arabia,
Thus et myrrham de Saba
Tulit in eccleſia
Virtus aſinaria.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
[144]
Dum trahit vehicula
Multa cum ſarcinula,
Illius mandibula,
Dura terit pabula.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Amen dicas, Aſine,
Jam ſatur ex gramine,
Amen, amen, itera,
Aſpernare vetera,
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Cum ariſtis hordeum
Comedit et carduum
Triticum a palea
Segregat in area.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.

6. THE Wrights and Slaters reherſed the Beirth of Chriſte. 7. The Painters and Glaziers, the Appearance of the Angels to the Shepherds. 8. The Vintners, the Departure of the Wiſe men, or three Kings of the eaſt, in ſearch of our Saviour. 9. The Mercers, the Offerings of the three Kings. 10. The Goldſmiths the Murder of the Innocents; and give a curious dialogue between the ſoldiers and the women. 11. The Blackſmiths ſhew how Chriſt diſputed with the doctors in the temple. 12. The Butchers, how he was led by the Spirit into the wilderneſs. 13. The Glovers tell of the death of Lazarus. 14. The Corviſors, of Jeſus and the Lepers. 15. The Bakers, of the laſt Supper. 16. The Fletchers, Bowyers, Coopers, and Stringers, choſe the Hiſtory of the Paſſion. 17. The Ironmongers, the Crucifixion. 18. The Cooks relate the deſcent of Chriſt into Hell, and what he did there; which concludes with our Saviour redeeming out of Purgatory all the ſaints, and leaving behind only one poor woman (probably a real character at the compoſition [145] of this curious drama) whoſe crimes ſhe confeſſes in a long ſpeech:

Some time I was a tavernere,
A gentel goſſepp, and a tapſtere
Of wine and ale a truſty brewer,
Which woo hath me bewrought.
Of cannes I kepe no true meaſure;
My cuppes I ſolde at my pleaſure,
Deceavinge many a creature,
Tho' my ale were noughte.

She is then welcomed by the devils; which cloſes the piece, and all I ſhall relate of thoſe heaps of abſurdities.

THE city had,1542 PUBLIC STEWS. till this time, been indulged with public ſtews or brothels, which, for ſome centuries, were permitted by legiſlative authority, and regulated by wholeſome laws, ordained by the commons, and confirmed by the king and lords. hoſe of Southwark were attended to in a particular manner in 1161, the 8th of Henry II. One article affords reaſon to believe, that a certain diſeaſe had a much earlier date than the ſiege of Naples; for it prohibits the ſtew-holders from keeping any woman that hath the perillous infirmity of burning *. Their houſes were diſtinguiſhed by having the fronts whitewaſhed, by having ſigns, not hung out, but painted againſt the walls. Among the ſigns, I obſerve the ſingular one of the cardinal's hat. Notwithſtanding the keepers were protected in their profeſſion, they were reckoned infamous, were not to be impannelled on any juries, [146] or allowed to hold a tavern*. The women that frequented them were forbidden the rites of the church, as long as they exerciſed their profeſſion, and were excluded from Chriſtian burial, if they were not reconciled before their death. Henry VIII. ſuppreſſed the Surry houſes in 1537; thoſe in this city in 1542.

THIS year was diſtinguiſhed by one of the cruel deeds that marked the reign of the bigotted Mary; 1554. the burning of George Marſh, for his adherence to the Proteſtant faith. I have often been informed by the worthy Doctor William Cooper, that when Marſh was brought to Boughton, the place of execution, by the ſheriffs Amory and Cooper, the laſt, an anceſtor of the Doctor; favoring the religion of the ſufferer, attempted his reſcue; but being overpowered by his brother-officer, was obliged to fly till better times, when he returned, and diſcharged the office of mayor in 1561.

FESTIVE times now took place again,1564. probably in compliment to the taſte of the glorious but romantic Queen Elizabeth. In the year 1564, upon the Sunday after Midſummer, in the mayoralty of Sir Lawrence Smith, ‘the hiſtory of Aenecs and queen Dido was played on the Reed's-eye, ſet forth by William Croſton, gent. and Mr. Man; on which triumph was made two forts, and ſhipping on the water, beſides many horſemen well armed and appointed.’ The forts and ſhipping ſeem to have been pageants, to carry on ſome deeds of chivalry. We hear of the ſhip Fame, laden with good Renowme, among the pageantries [147] of Henry *; and the Fortreſſe of Beautie, aſſailed by virtuous Deſire, among thoſe of Elizabeth . The aſſailants battered it with noſegays; and the beſieged diſcharged againſt them cannons filled with ſweet powder, or odoriferous waters.

DURING Sir Lawrence's mayoralty, we have an account of another ſpectacle, an annual one, upon the watch of the even of St. John the Baptiſt, for Sir Lawrence and the aldermen and common-council, contract with two painters to have in ‘readineſs, with all furniture thereto belonging, viz. four gyants, one unicorne, one dromedarye, one luce, one camell, one aſſe, one dragon, ſix hobbye horſes, and ſixteen naked boyes; and the ſame being in readines, ſhall beare or carry, or cauſe to be borne and carryed, duringe the watche, from place to place, accordinge as the ſame have been uſed, &c. I am at a loſs to gueſs the end of this preparation: but find that it was ſuppreſſed during the mayoralty of 1599.’

THE virtue of Edward Dutton, 1604. mayor or the city in 1604, muſt not paſs unnoticed. This worthy magiſtrate, like Marſeilles' good biſhop, kept his ſtation during the whole time of a dreadful peſtilence;

When nature ſickened, and each gale was death.

HIS houſe was infected, and ſome of his children and ſervants died. The court of exchequer was removed to Tarvin; [148] the [...] aſſizes were held at Namptwich; and the fairs ceaſed during this ſad viſitation.

IN this year the city was honored with the preſence of James I. where he was received with a magnificence that did honor to the place. [...] The mayor. Edward Button, preſented his majeſty with a fair ſtanding cup, with a cover double gilt, and in it a hundred jacobins or gold. He alſo delivered the city's ſword to the king, who returning it, the mayor bore it before him on horſeback. His worſhip was offered the honor of knighthood, but declined it. The city did not confine its munificence to crowned heads; I find, that in 1583, Robert earl of Leiceſter, chamberlain of the county palatine, met with a moſt honorable reception; was received at the high-croſs by the whole corporation, entertained by the mayor, and preſented with a cup containing forty angels. The unfortunate earl of Eſſex, in 1598, in his way to Ireland, was ſtill more diſtinguiſhed. He was preſented with the like ſum; but in a cup of the ſame kind as that which was afterwards preſented to James.

FROM 1617, I diſcover nothing very particular for a conſiderable ſpace; till the city was involved in the calamities of a ſiege in 1 [...]45-6, in conſequence of its unſhaken loyalty to Charles I. At the beginning of the civil war, immediate attention was paid to this important city, by the royal party. The fortifications were put into the beſt repair, and outworks extended from the alcove on the north part of the walls, to the brink of the river near Boughton; and in conſequence, numbers of houſes were pulled down, to prevent them from giving ſhelter to the enemy. The firſt attempt made on the place by the parlement army was [149] on the 20th of July 1643, when Sir William Brereton gave a violent aſſault on the works; but met with a repulſe. In the ſame year he ſent a ſummons to Sir Abraham Shipman, then governor, to ſurrender: the gallant commander bid him come and win it and wear it.

AFTER the repulſe of Lord Biron before Namptwich, the county of Cheſter was almoſt entirely in the hands of Sir William Brereton, and the city ſuffered from that time a ſort of blockade, from the quarters the enemy poſſeſſed in the neighborhood, even as near as the village of Chriſtleton. Sallies and excurſions were frequently made; and, according to the diary of the ſiege with advantage to the loyaliſts.

ON September the 19th 1645, the parlement gained an advantage irrecoverable by the beſieged. Colonel Jones and adjutant-general Lothian, who were employed in the reduction of Beeſton caſtle, drew from before that place, in a ſecret manner, a large body of forces, and in the night ſtormed the outworks, and made themſelves maſters of every thing, even to the city walls. His majeſty, immediately after this misfortune, paſſed through Wales, and got into the city, in hopes of animating the garriſon, and was lodged at Sir Francis Gamul's, near the bridge. He arrived only time enough to be a ſpectator, from the leads of the Phoenix tower, of the fatal battle on Rowton heath, on September 24; when his forces, under Sir Marmaduke Langdale, then on their march to raiſe the ſiege, after a well-diſputed action, ſunk under the ſuperior fortune of general Pointz.

THE king continued that night in Cheſter; and on quitting it the next day, gave orders to the governor, lord Biron, that [150] in caſe there was no appearance of relief within eight days, he was to treat of a ſurrender. The king took the route of Den-high, attended to that town by the three reſpectable citizens, Sir Francis Gamul, alderman Cooper, and captain Thropp. The ſiege was continued with the utmoſt vigour by Sir William Brereton; notwithſtanding which, the gallant garriſon held out for twenty weeks, beyond the expectation of every body: and, after having been reduced to live on horſes, dogs, and cats, yielded, on the 3d of February 1645-6, on terms that did honor to the ſpirit of the beſieged. The city was evacuated by the royaliſts; and received from the parlement, as governor, colonel Jones. But the miſeries of the citizens did not terminate with the ſiege: a dreadful peſtilence broke out in 1647: two thouſand inhabitants periſhed, and the city became almoſt a deſert.

IN order to give a further hiſtory of the military,BRIDGE. civil, and eccleſiaſtical architecture of this antient city, I return to the bridge. This paſſage was prior to the Conqueſt; at which period it ſeems to have been either deſtroyed, or found to be ſo much out of repair, that I find in Doomſday book an order for the provoſt to ſummon one man from each hide of land in the county, in order to re-build the bridge and the walls; and, in caſe of neglect of appearance, the lord of the perſon ſo ſummoned was to forfeit to the king and earl forty ſhillings.

ACCORDING to a MS. quoted by Mr. Groſe, it was begun by the great reſtorer of the city, Ethelfieda, and after her death completed by her brother Edward. Before that time, the paſſage was by a ferry that plied between the poſtern, called the [151] Ship-gate, and Edgar's field. It does not appear to me that any part of the Saxon bridge remains; ſo frequently has it been repaired ſince that diſtant period.

BENEATH the arch next to the city,CAUSEWAY AND MILLS. is a current, which, by means of a great dam or cauſeway that croſſes the river obliquely, ſupplies the city mills with water. Theſe mills and the cauſeway were originally founded by Hugh Lupus *, and retained by his ſucceſſors, and afterwards by the earls of Cheſter of the royal line. I find them often leaſed by the crown; Edward the black prince, in particular, in 1355, grants them, the fiſhing, ſuit, court, and calſey, for three years, to Robert of Bredone, parſon of St. Peter of Cheſter, and others, at the annual rent of 190 l. . This rent was very conſiderable in thoſe days; and aroſe from the obligation every inhabitant of the city then lay under to grind at theſe mills, excepting the tenants of the abbot and monks of St. Werburgh, and, in after times, thoſe of the dean and chapter, inhabiting without the North-gate, who had a mill of their own at Bachpool.

I MUST not omit, that a grant of theſe mills for life was the reward of valor to my countryman Sir Howel y Fwyall, for his bravery in taking priſoner John king of France, in the battle of Poitiers. This grant was alſo made by the black prince, who not only knighted Howel, but allowed a meſs of meat to be ſerved before his battle ax, in memory of the good uſe he made of it in that day; from which he acquired the name of Fwyall, or Howei or the ax.

[152]ON each ſide of the Bridge-gate are two rounders:BRIDGE-GATE. over it are the three feathers, the arms of the princes of Wales. Thoſe were firſt aſſumed by the BLACK PRINCE after the battle of Creſh, in 1346: our hiſtorians aſſert, that they were the three oſtrich-feathers which the king of Bohemia bore that day in his coronet; and that he was ſlain by Edward, who ſeizing on the creſt, bore from that time both the feathers and the motto I [...]b dien, I ſerve. I am unwilling to ſully the honor of our gallant prince, by ſuppoſing that he would ſtain his ſword in ſo unequal an encounter. The king was blind with age; and, finding the battle go againſt his allies, was led, by his own orders, into the rage of the combat, determined to die in the cauſe of France. Our brave prince, probably, might aſſume this royal cognizance in memory of the glorious day, and add to it his own motto, Ic dien, the old Engliſh for I ſerve alluſive to the Scriptural verſe, The heir while he is a child differeth not from a ſervant *, an impreſe extremely ſuitable to the characteriſtic modeſty and filial piety of this prince.

THIS and the other city gates were placed under the protection of certain great men, who held lands within the county palatine. The earl of Shrewſhury had the care of the Bridge-gate; the earl of Oxford, of the Eaſt-gate; the earl of Derby, of the Water-gate. But the North-gate, belonging peculiarly to the city, was intruſted only to its chief magiſtrates. Tolls were exacted at entrance, from all ſtrangers, for the ſupport of the [153] guard; and, notwithſtanding the cauſe has long ſince ceaſed, are ſtill demanded at the Bridge-gate.

ABOVE the gate is a lofty octagonal tower,WATER-WORKS. begun in 1600, by permiſſion of the corporation, by John Tyrer of this city, containing the works which for a long time raiſed water out of the Dee to a ciſtern in the top, whence it was conveyed in pipes to almoſt all parts of the city. Poſſibly theſe did not anſwer their purpoſe effectually; for in 1622, Tyrer had a new grant of a tower erected for a water-work and a well-place, ten feet ſquare, near Spittle Boughton, with full powers for the conveyance of the water to the ciſtern or conduit near the high-croſs. This work (which was firſt begun by the black friers in the time of Edward I.*) fell to decay. In 1692, the works undertaken by Tyrer being found to be ruinous and uſeleſs, John Hopkins and John Hadley, by the encouragement of the corporation, began new works for ſupplying the city with water from the river Dee: for this purpoſe, they purchaſed the grant made to Tyrer, and alſo one of the corn-mills, for the conveniency of placing their engine. The city confirmed to them all the powers formerly veſted in Tyrer, and particularly that of ſetting up a ciſtern oppoſite to the abby court, as a conſtant receptacle for freſh water.

NEAR the Bridge-gate is one aſcent to the city walls;WALLS. which are the only entire ſpecimen of antient fortification now in Great Britain. They are a mile and three quarters, and a hundred [154] and one yards in circumference; and, being the principal walk of the inhabitants, are kept in excellent repair, by certain impoſts,MURRACE called murage duties, collected at the cuſtom-houſe, upon all goods and merchandize brought into the port of Cheſter from parts beyond the ſeas, belonging to perſons not freemen of the city. The Iriſh linen adds conſiderably to the fund, being nearly two-thirds of the whole: the duty on this article is two pence on every hundred yards. The annual receipt of the different duties, on the average of the laſt ſeven years, is about 1 [...]0l.. An officer, called a murenger, is choſen out of the body of the aldermen, to inſpect the repairs; generally an old member, to whom the duty affords amuſement and health. This fund is now permanent: in old times, the murage was only occaſional. Thus, in the 14th of Edward II. there was a grant for two years of a half-penny for every cranock of corn; and a farthing of ale, meal, and malt; and for commodities not expreſſed in the grant, a farthing out of every two ſhillings-worth.

I CANNOT diſcover any veſtige of the original walls, ſuch as thoſe which are ſaid to have been reſtored by the warlike Ethelfleda. I would not willingly detract from the lady's merit; but I muſt deny her that of being the foundreſs of the fortifications, and of enlarging the city beyond the Roman precincts. The form at preſent is ſo entirely Roman, that any addition ſhe could make would have deſtroyed the peculiar figure that wiſe people always preſerved in their ſtations or caſtrametations, whereſoever the nature of the ground would permit. The antiquities which diſtinguiſh their reſidence are not found confined to any one quarter: they are met in digging on every ſide within the walls.

[155]THE military architecture is ſtill entirely on the Roman plan; it is probable, that after their retreat it fell into ruin, in the empoveriſhed, turbulent, and barbarous ages that ſucceeded, yet never was ſo totally demoliſhed, but that it might ſtill yield a defence to the poſſeſſors. We find it wreſted out of the hands of the Britons by Egbert, in 828: we again ſee it poſſeſſed by the Danes in 895, and beſieged by Alfred, who ſlew all the banditti whom he found without the walls; and, laſtly, we find it taken by Ethelfleda, by the voluntary ſurrender of the garriſon. All this proves a continuance of the fortifications, probably ruinous, and wanting that reſtoration which they found from that illuſtrious woman.

WE ſee the Roman mode of fortification preſerved to this day, exactly on the antient plan. From each ſide of the gates projects a propugnaculum * or baſtion, in order to annoy the enemy who attempted to enter; and between them, in the very entrance, was the cataracta or portcullis, ready to be dropt in caſe they forced the gates, ſo that part of them might be caught within the walls, and the reſt excluded. Should it happen that they ſet the gates on fire, there were holes above, in order to pour down water to extinguiſh the flames.

THE walls are in many parts, eſpecially on the north and caſt ſides, guarded by towers, placed ſo as not to be beyond bow-ſhot of one another, in order that the archers might reach the enemy who attempted to attack the intervals. They alſo [156] are moſtly of a round form, as was recommended by the Roman architects, in order the better to elude the force of battering rams*.

THE thickneſs of the walls anſwer to the breadth preſcribed by Vitruvius. Only two perſons can walk abreaſt, excepting where the ground adjacent gives a larger expanſe. The great architect directs, that they ſhould be of ſuch a breadth, that two armed men may paſs each other without any impediment.

THE city to this time enjoys the four gates; anſwerable to the principalis dextra & ſiniſtra, praetoria & decumana. The Eaſt-gate, one of the principales, exiſted within my memory.

MY walk leads me beneath the caſtle, to another of the principales, the preſent Water-gate, that opens towards the waterſide, and near which the Dee in former times flowed.

AT the extreme angle of the city, beyond this gate, is a ſalient tower, exactly round,WATER-TOWER. unleſs where interrupted by a ſmall ſquared projection at the entrance. This tower is joined to the walls by a deep open gallery, embattled on each ſide, beneath is a large arch for the paſſage of the tide, before the late incloſures, which alſo are within my remembrance. This tower is at preſent called the Water-tower. It jutted into the antient channel or the river, where the ſhips lay, which faſtened their cables [157] to its ſides by the great iron rings infixed in the ſtone. This tower was formerly called the new; yet was founded in 1320; for there exiſts a contract for that purpoſe, between the mayor and citizens of Cheſter and one John de Helpſton, maſon, for building quandam turrem rotundum, &c. a round tower ‘of the thickneſs of ten yards and a half, with a cavity within; twenty-four yards high, and ſo ſtrong as to be defenſible;’ and all this for the ſum of one hundred pounds*.

THE next remarkable outlet is the North-gate, beyond which is a large ſuburb.

THE Phoenix tower ſtands on the angle of the walls beyond this gate. The preſent tower was built in 1613, and was uſed by ſix of the companies of the city as a chamber for buſineſs. It took its name from the fabulous bird, the creſt of the painter-ſtainers company, which was placed in front.

THE Eaſt-gate is the next entrance.EAST-GATE. Here ſtood a lofty ſquare tower, with many apartments, erected (according to tradition) by Edward III. This had been a Porta principalis, was the grand entrance into the town, and was the termination of the great Watling-ſtreet road, which croſſed the iſland from Dover, and was the great road from that port to this place. In 1769, this gate, being found too narrow and inconvenient, was pulled down, and a magnificent arch aroſe in its room, at the ſole expence of Richard lord Groſvenour. Beyond this is a vaſt ſuburb, called the Foreſt-ſtreet; whoſe lower part was defended by a gate, demoliſhed as a nuſance within theſe few years.

[158]AFTER paſſing the Eaſt-gate, the traveller will obſerve, without the walls, a vaſt foſs cut through the live rock, now a common road to the water; but which appears to me to have been a work of the Romans, as a defence on this ſide, and which continues the rectangular ſhape of the ſtation.

THE views from the ſeveral parts of the walls are extremely elegant.FINE-VIEWS. The mountains of Flintſhire and Denbighſhire, the hills of Broxton, and the inſulated rock of Beeſton, form the ruder part of the ſcenery, a rich flat gives a ſofter view; and the proſpect up the river towards Boughton recalls, in ſome degree, the idea of the Thames and Richmond-bill.

ON the Conqueſt, as has been before related, the king viſited this city in perſon, and reſtored the fortifications, It is probable that he only repaired the walls, but that he entirely re-built the caſtle* on the Norman model, and enlarged it far beyond the dimenſions of that of the Saxons, which occupied the ſummit of the mount or little hill on which the fortreſs ſtands. That part is artificial, in order to give a great elevation, as was cuſtomary in the Saxon keeps; and the portion ſo flung up appears here to have been a mixture of ſtones and exceedingly hard clay.

THE caſtle is compoſed of two parts, an upper and a lower: each with a ſtrong gate,CASTLE. defended by a round baſtion on each ſide, with a ditch, and formerly with draw-bridges. Within the precincts of the upper Ballium are to be ſeen ſome towers of Norman architecture, ſquare, with ſquare projections at each [159] corner, very ſlightly ſalient. The handſomeſt is that called Julius Caeſar's. Its entrance is through a large Gothic door, probably of later workmanſhip. The loweſt room has a vaulted roof, ſtrengthened with ordinary ſquare couples. The upper had been a chapel, as appears by the holy-water pot, and ſome figures, almoſt obſolete, painted on the walls. Its dimenſions are nineteen feet four inches, by ſixteen ſix, the height alſo ſixteen feet ſix. The roof is vaulted; but the couples, which are rounded, ſlender, and elegant, run down the walls, and reſt on the cornuted capitals of five ſhort but beautiful round pillars, in the ſame ſtyle with thoſe in the chapter-houſe of the cathedral; probably the work of the ſame architect. The arſenal, ſome batteries, and certain habitable buildings, occupy the remaining part.

ON the ſides of the lower court ſtands the noble room called Hugh Lupus's hall,LUPUS'S HALL. in which the courts of juſtice for the county are held. The length is very near ninety-nine feet; the breadth forty-five; the height very aweful, and worthy the ſtate-apartment of a great baron. The roof ſupported by woodwork, in a bold ſtyle, carved; and placed on the ſides, reſting on ſtout brackets.

THIS magnificent building probably retains its original dimenſions. The character of the firſt Norman earl required a hall ſuited to the greatneſs of his hoſpitality; which was confined to no bounds. 'He was,' ſays Ordericus *, ‘not only liberal, but proſuſe. He did not carry a family with him, but an army. [160] He kept no account of receits or diſburſements. He was perpetually waſting his eſtates: and was much fonder of falconers and huntſmen, than of cultivators of the land and holy men: and by his gluttony he grew ſo exceſſively fat, that he could hardly crawl about.’

ADJOINING to the end of this great hall is the court of exchequer,EXCHEQUER or the chancery of the county palatine of Cheſter. The earl of Cholmondely is the preſent chamberlain; Sir Richard Perrin, my worthy countryman, ſits and diſcharges the office of vice-chamberlain. In reſpect to matters of equity, he here acts as lord chancellor. The chamberlain was one of the antient earl's great officers, and had a fee of twenty-two pounds a year. This very building is ſaid to have been the parlementhouſe of the little kings of the palatinate. It ſavors of antiquity in the architecture; and within are a number of ſeats deſcribed by Gothic arches and neat pillars; at the upper end are two; one for the earl, the other for the abbot. The eight others were allotted to his eight barons, [and occupy one ſide of the room.

UNDER the vice-chamberlain is a baron, who holds a weekly court, in which appearances are entered for bringing cauſes to a trial. Writs and ſubpoenas are alſo here made out, as well for the great ſeſſions for this county, as for thoſe of the county of Flint. Here is, beſides, an examiner; and a ſeal-keeper, who has the charge of the records.

THE judges have lodgings within the caſtle, during their circuit, by antient cuſtom. Theſe are furniſhed by the ſheriffs of the city. The ſheriffs of the county take care of their horſes; but [161] are allowed the expences when they bring in their accounts at the audit.

THE county jail for felons and debtors is the laſt place to be deſcribed.JAIL I can do little more than confirm the account of it by the humane Howard. Their day-confinement is in a little yard, ſurrounded on all ſides by lofty buildings, impervious to the air, excepting from above, and ever unviſited by the purifying rays of the ſun. Their nocturnal apartments are in cells ſeven feet and a half by three and a half; ranged on one ſide of a ſubterraneous dungeon; in each of which are often lodged three or four perſons. The whole is rendered more (wholeſomely) horrible, by being pitched over three or four times in the year. The ſcanty air of their ſtreight priſon-yard is to travel through three paſſages to arrive at them: through the window of an adjacent room; through a grate in the floor of the ſaid room into the dungeon; and finally, through the dungeon, through a little grate above the door of each of their kennels. In ſuch places as theſe are the innocent and the guilty permitted to be lodged, till the law decides their fate. I am ſure the humane keeper, Mr. Thomas, muſt feel many a pang at the neceſſary diſcharge of his duty. Mr. HOWARD compares the place to the black-hole at Calcutta. The view I had of it, aſſiſted to raiſe the idea of a much worſe priſon where

No light, but rather darkneſs viſible,
Served only to diſcover ſights of woe.

The conſtable of the caſtle holds his place for life; is properly the keeper of the priſon; but appoints a deputy. He is accountable [162] for all priſoners and debtors, and anſwerable for their eſcapes.

WITHIN the walls of this fortreſs, was an inſtance of a felon ſuffering priſon forte et dure, for ſtanding mute on his trial, till he died of hunger.PRISON FORTE IT DURE. One Adam, ſon of John, of the Woodhouſes, was, in 1310, the 4th of Edward II. committed for burning his own houſes, and carrying away the goods. He ſtood mute; a jury, as uſual, was empanelled, who decided, that he could ſpeak if he pleaſed. On this he was committed ad dietam; and afterwards John le Morgan, conſtable of the caſtle, teſtified, that the aforeſaid Adam was dead ad dietam *. This was the origin of the puniſhment of preſſing to death, or the peine forte et dure, which ſeems a ſort of merciful haſtening of death; for it muſt have been much more horrible, as well as tedious, in the manner preſcribed by the law of the firſt Edward, in whoſe reign it originated. The words of the ſtatute are, ‘Qe les felouns ecriez et que ſont apertement de male fame, et ne ſe voillent mettre en enqueſte des felonies qe lem lui mette devant juſtices a la ſuite le Roy, ſoient mys en la priſon fort et dure, &c.’

THE term ad dietam was ironical, expreſſive of the ſad ſuſtenance the ſufferer was allowed; viz. on the firſt day, three morſels of the worſt bread; on the ſecond, three draughts of water out of the next puddle: and this was to be alternately his daily diet till he died.

MR. RYMER records a ſtrange inſtance of a woman at Nottingham, who underwent this puniſhment, and lived forty days [163] without meat or drink. This happened in 1357, in the reign of Edward III. who, ‘ad laudem Dei et glorioſae virginis MARLAe matris ſuae, unde dictum miraculum proceſſit, at creditur *,’ granted the ſufferer a free pardon. After mentioning, that it is probable that the miracle was a little aſſiſted by natural means, I muſt obſerve, that, according to this inſtance, the condemned were, in ſome caſes, abſolutely denied any ſpecies of food; in others, it ſeems probable, from the name of the puniſhment of Adam, that they ſometimes were allowed that wretched diet which was continued when the puniſhment changed into the peine dure et forte.

THERE is a ſingularity in the manner of the treatment of the priſoners who are releaſed by capital puniſhment out of their dreadful cells, which merits mention. They are delivered by the conſtable or his deputy, at a ſtone called Glover's-ſtone, about ninety yards diſtant from the outward gate, into the hands of the ſheriffs of the city; who receive them at that ſtone, which is the extreme limit of the caſtle precincts, and from thence convey them to the place of execution, which they alſo have the charge of. This cuſtom is not accounted for, any more than by tradition, that a felon was formerly reſcued in his way to the gallows by the citizens of Cheſter, and perhaps by the connivance of the magiſtrates, who are ſuppoſed to have had the diſagreeable duty inflicted on them of executing all criminals, whether they are of the county or the city.

[164]THE city was ſeparated from the caſtle, and made a county of itſelf, by the charter of Henry VII: the caſtle was left as an appertance to the ſhire; and has the ſmall outlet of a little ſtreet called Glover's-ſtone, GLOVER'S STONE. which is alſo independent of the city; and in which non-freemen may ſet up any trade unmoleſted by the corporation.

THE caſtle has a governor, lieutenant-governor, and conſtable; and is garriſoned by two companies of invalids.

THE civil government and architecture is next to be taken notice of. I have, in my account of Saxon and Norman CHESTER, given a brief relation of the government of the city in thoſe periods. I ſhall at preſent only mention the principal charters; and flatter myſelf, that the reader will excuſe my brevity, not only as it is beyond the power of the travelling topographer to collect the ſame materials as the reſident; but becauſe his curioſity will, it is to be hoped, ſoon be ſatisfied by the publication of the hiſtory of this city by the Reverend Doctor GOWER, which will amply ſupply all my deficiencies.

THE firſt royal charter which this city was honored with is that of Henry III;CHARTERS. who confirms all the priveleges beſtowed on them by the Norman earls, and, I imagine, firſt flung the government into the form of a regular corporation; for he grants and confirms to them, that none ſhall buy or ſell merchandiſe in the city except citizens, unleſs it be in the fairs, under the penalty of ten pounds.

EDWARD I. gave the city of Cheſter, with the appertenances, and all the liberties and priveleges, to its citizens and their heirs, [165] to be holden of him and his heirs for ever, paying annually 100 l; he alſo granted them the election of a coroner, and pleas of the crown; and that they ſhould have ſock*, ſack, toll, theme, infangthefe, outfangthefe, and freedom throughout all the land and dominion, of toll, paſſage, &c.

EDWARD III. confirmed the paſt grants, and added another, of all the vacant lands within the liberty of the city, with leave for the citizens to build on ſuch vacant ſpots.

EDWARD the black prince preſcribed by particular names the boundaries of the city, beginning at the Iron-bridge, and from thence to Saltney, the Port-pool, Flukerſbrook, Boughton, &c.

RICHARD II. was particularly kind to his favorite city. In conſideration of ſome diſtreſſes it had undergone, he releaſed them from the payment of ſeventy-three pounds ten ſhillings and eight-pence arrears of rent due to the crown: he gave them the profits of the ferry towards the re-building and repairing of Dee bridge: he made them two grants of the murage, the firſt for four years, the ſecond for five, for the repairs of the walls. [166] But in the 22d year of his reign, ‘for the furtherance of juſtice in the ſame city, and better execution thereof, he grants unto his ſubjects, majors, ſheriffs, and commonalty of the ſaid city, to hold their courts; and limited what proceſſes they might award in, actions, perſonal felonies, appeals, proceſſes of utlagary, as at common law. Granted under the ſeal of the principality of Cheſter, at Cheſter, May 2, 1398*.’ This ſeems to have been found neceſſary, in order to ſtrengthen the civil policy of this place, which had four years before been greatly inſulted by a dreadful riot in the abby by Sir Baldwyne of Radyngſtone, ſupported by Sir John of Stanley with eight hundred men. A ſheriff was killed, and many other exceſſes committed.

AFTER the revolution which happened in 1399, the mayor and citizens continued to favor the cauſe of their depoſed maſter; and after his death, gave all the aſſiſtance in their power to Harry Percy. On his defeat, they obtained the royal pardon; and in order to conciliate their affections, young Henry prince of Wales, and earl of Cheſter, confirmed all their former charters and priveleges; and afterwards granted to them the profits of murage and bridge tower, where tolls were collected, durante bene placito.

IN a confirmation of the former charters by Henry VI. we learn the former concourſe of ſtrangers; the greatneſs of the commerce of Cheſter, by reaſon of the goodneſs of its port; and the great trade carried on in proviſions into and out of [167] Wales. It farther recites the melancholy change of affairs; the conflux of foreign merchants being put a ſtop to by the choaking of the creek with ſands; and the intercourſe with Wales deſtroyed, ſince the inſurrection of Owen Glendwr: which conſiderations moved the king to remit ten pounds of the antient fee-farm rent.

THE proviſions alluded to were probably cheeſes, on the part of the citizens of Cheſter; and perhaps wines, ſpices, and other foreign luxuries; for which they might receive in exchange from the Welſh, cattle of different kinds.

HENRY VII.MEMBERS. in 1506, in conſideration of farther diſtreſſes of the city, not only remitted eighty pounds of its annual rent; but granted it a new charter, by which he ſeparated it from the county, and granted it ſeveral of the moſt valuable priveleges which it ſtill enjoys: but being a county palatine, and in the time of Edward I. veſted in the crown, never received ſummons, either for county or city, to return members to parlement, till the reign of Henry VIII. when the county, in 1543, was empowered to ſend two knights, and the city two citizens. The electors of the laſt are the freemen of the city; the returning-officers the ſheriffs.

THE corporation conſiſts of a mayor,CORPORATION. recorder, two ſheriff s, twenty-four aldermen, and forty common-council. Here are beſide two annual officers, called leave-lookers, whoſe buſineſs was to prevent all perſons who are not free of the city from exerciſing any trade, or expoſing to ſale any wares or merchandiſe within the liberties. They were accuſtomed to go round the city in order to preſerve theſe its privileges; and ſometimes were uſed [168] to take ſmall ſums, called leave-lookerage, for leave for non-freemen to ſell wares by retail; but at preſent the yeoman of the Pentiſe diſcharges this office, and returns the names of ſuch perſons who are found to offend, in order that actions might be brought againſt them. We find, as early as 1297, that ſimilar officers were elected, under the name of cuſtos guild mercator; and who diſcharged the ſame function*.

THE places where the mayor and other officers of the corporation aſſemble for the diſpatch of buſineſs,PEXTISE. or adminiſtration of juſtice, are two; the firſt is the Pentiſe, an antient building in the center of the city, near the junction of the four principal ſtreets. Mention is made of the north-ſide having been builded in 1497. Here all buſineſs within the cognizance of a juſtice of the peace is tranſacted; the aldermen that have paſt the chair being empowered to act as long as they wear the gown. Here alſo the ſheriffs, aſſiſted by the recorder, ſit and determine civil cauſes.

I IMAGINE that this building,PRAETORIUM. St. Peter's church, and a few houſes to the north and weſt, occupy the ſite of the Roman Praetorium; for they not only fill the very ſituation of that part of the old caſtrametations, but account for the diſcontinuance of the Bridge ſtreet, which ceaſes oppoſite to theſe edifices. This alſo is the cauſe why the nearer part of the North-gate ſtreet is thrown out of its courſe, and falls into the Eaſt-gate ſtreet, many yards beyond the mouth of the Bridge ſtreet; for the lower part of the North-gate ſtreet, where the exchange and ſhambles ſtand. [169] points directly towards the former; but is interrupted by the ſpace occupied by theſe buildings. The limit of the Praetorium on the eaſt, was the narrow portion of North-gate ſtreet; on the ſouth, part of the preſent Bridge, Eaſt-gate, and Water-gate ſtreets; on the weſt Goſs lane; and on the north, the ſpace now occupied by the fiſh-market. The praetorium, with its attendants, demanded no ſmall ſpace; for, beſides the ſpot poſſeſſed by the general, were the apartments of the imperatoris contubernales, or the young nobility immediately under his care; the augurale, where prayers, ſacrifices, and other religious rites were performed, which might have ſtood on the ſite of the modern church; and the general might have had his tribunal on the very ſpot where the worſhipful corporation at preſent ſit for the redreſs of grievances.

THE courts of juſtice are held in the common hall,EXCHANGE. a large and commodious room over the exchange, adorned with the portraits of ſeveral popular perſons: among them is a full-length of Sir William Williams, recorder of this city, ſpeaker of the houſe of commons in the reign of Charles II. and ſolicitor-general in that of his ſucceſſor. In this place are held a crown-mote court, portmote court, and court of ſeſſions. The mayor, aſſiſted by the recorder, is judge of the crownmote court. He has juriſdiction in all criminal cauſes, treaſon only excepted. He is alſo judge of the portmote court, with the ſame aſſiſtant. This court holds plea in all actions real, perſonal, and mixed. In the court of ſeſſions, the aldermen above the chair try petty-larcenies, and determine upon inferior offences. In this place, the body corporate hold their aſſemblies for making bye-laws [170] for the government of the city; for managing the public buildings and directing the charities; and finally, the city elections of magiſtrates, as well as members, are made in this court.

THE only remains of any hotel, and that of no antient date, ſtood in Old Common-ball lane; which, when entire, ſurrounded a ſquare, and communicated with Water-gate ſtreet. It was founded by Sir Thomas Egerton, chamberlain of Cheſter, afterwards lord chancellor of England, and deſigned by him for a dwelling-houſe. The ſmall remainder, which faced the lane, and was occupied by a poor family, on the 5th of November 1772, was the ſcene of a dreadful calamity. The firſt floor was engaged by a puppet-ſhow man; and at the moment he was exhibiting to a very full audience, by ſome unknown accident 800 pounds weight of gunpowder, which was lodged in a warehouſe beneath, took fire, and blew up three ſtories. Twenty-three people periſhed, and eighty-three were much burnt, bruiſed, and received broken and diſlocated limbs; of which number only three died, and thoſe with locked jaws. The remedy found moſt efficacious for the burnt, was Goulard's extract of lead.

THE external effects of this exploſion were theſe: the windows and broken glaſs of ſeveral of the neighboring houſes fell outwards; from which it appears, that they were not broken by the ſhock of the gunpowder, but by the preſſure of the air within the apartments, which ruſhed out into the vacuum occaſioned by the exploſion. A ſimilar phaenomenon has been remarked from an exploſion from the inflammable vapor of a mine, when the neighboring trees fell towards the blaſt. Howſoever, [171] where the force of the powder was confined by narrow paſſages, its centrifugal effect took place; for two boys, walking along the rows in Water-gate ſtreet, oppoſite to a paſſage leading to the building, were blown, one againſt the rails, the other into the ſtreet; and the roof of a houſe was blown off, oppoſite a paſſage into Common-hall lane.

IT is much to be wiſhed, that the eaſy magiſtracy of this city would, from this dire accident, take into conſideration the ſafety of the whole, in preference to the conveniency of a few lazy individuals; and either compel them to keep by them only the legal quantity, or at their ſeſſion appoint proper places for lodging gunpowder. This is the ſecond tremendous warning of the ſame nature which the city hath been viſited with. On the firſt of April 1726, the ſhop of Mr. Thomas Murray in Bridge ſtreet, and the houſe, were blown up; and himſelf and a young gentleman killed. Notwithſtanding this double admonition, I fear its attention ſtill continues lethargic.

THE ſurviving ſufferers of this calamity were relieved* in the well-regulated infirmary eſtabliſhed here, and ſupported by the voluntary contributions from the city, county, and neighboring parts of Wales. It is a handſome building, in an airy ſituation, and detached from the ſtreets. This charity was founded in 1756, and originated from a bequeſt of 300 l. left by Dr. Stratford, commiſſary of Richmond, towards the commencing of a public hoſpital in this city. Subſcriptions were [172] circulated, and a ſum equal to the deſign ſoon raiſed. Before the preſent building could be ready for the reception of patients, a temporary infirmary was prepared for them, in 1756, in Northgate ſtreet. The new infirmary was opened on the 17th of March 1761; and has been ſupported with a ſpirit that does honor to the environs; which has enabled the managers to receive, ſince its inſtitution, not fewer than thirteen thouſand ſix hundred and thirty-ſix objects of relief. The portrait of the founder is placed in the council-room of the infirmary; a three-quarters piece, ſitting, in a long wig and civilian's gown.

I SHALL now take a ſhort view of the eccleſiaſtical ſtate of this antient city. It is neceſſary firſt to obſerve, that the Mercian kingdom was divided into five biſhopricks; Lichfield, Cheſter, Worceſter, Lydneceſter, and Dorcheſter; which laſt was afterwards removed to Lincoln. Lichfield was made, about the year 785, metropolitan, by order of Offa, and afterwards, for a long ſpace, incorporated into itſelf its ſuffragan, Cheſter. How greatly the laſt flouriſhed is evident from an account of its annual payment to the pope in very early times; for, when Lichfield payed only three thouſand florins, our ſee advanced five thouſand. No wonder that its jealouſy ſhould be excited! Very little is known of the ſtate of this church in the Saxon period. Let it ſuffice to ſay, that a biſhop of Lichfield, of the name of Peter, in the year 1075, removed his epiſcopal ſeat to Cheſter; and during his life made uſe of the church of St. John's for his cathedral. This tranſlation was of very ſhort date; for his ſucceſſor eſtabliſhed himſelf in the former dioceſe, and Cheſter continued without a biſhop till the diſſolution of monaſteries; when, in 1541, [173] Henry VIII. reſtored it to its former honor, by creating it one of the ſix* new ſees formed on that great event; and converted the church of the late abby of St. Werburgh into the cathedral.

THE firſt of the new biſhops was John Bird, a Carmelite, and provincial of the order; a man ſubſervient to the court; who, by preaching againſt the pope's ſupremacy, ſo recommended himſelf to the king as to obtain the biſhoprick of Bangor; from whence he was removed to Cheſter, as a fit perſon to ſuit the rapacity of the times. In 1546, he granted away the whole of the manors and demeſnes of the ſee, and, accepting impropriation inſtead of them, left his ſucceſſors not a ſingle acre, excepting that on which the palace ſtands, and the court before it; another houſe, adjacent; a little orchard called the Woodyard; two houſes near St. John's church; and a few ſmall tenements in the city of York. Notwithſtanding the ſum he amaſſed, he was found, at the acceſſion of Mary, in debt to the crown 1087 l. 18 s. for tenths and ſubſidies; a vaſt ſum for the times! His intereſt with biſhop Bonner ſtill would have ſaved him, had he not committed (in thoſe days) the heinous crime of matrimony, for which he was deprived in 1554.

HE left his dioceſe one of the leſt in value, yet greateſt: in extent, of any in England; for it reaches from Hawarden in Flintſhire, to the river Derwent in Cumberland: comprehending the entire counties of Cheſhire and Lancaſhire; part of Weſtmoreland, [174] Cumberland, and Richmondſhire in Yorkſhire; the chapelties of Holt and Iſcoed; the churches of Hawarden, Hanmer, Bangor, Worthenhury, and the chapelry of Orton Maddoc, in the adjacent parts or Wales.

THE abby,ABBY. out of which this ſee was formed, was of great antiquity. Hiſtory relates, that it had been originally a nunnery, founded about the year 660, by Wulpherus, king of the Mercians, in favor of his daughter's indiſpoſition to a married life. This was the celebrated St. Werburgh, who took the veil after living immaculate for three years with her huſband Ceolredus, after the example of her aunt, the great Ethelreda; who cohabited for three years with no leſs purity with her firſt ſpouſe Tonberctus, and for twelve with her ſecond, the pious prince Egfrid. St. Werburgh preſided over ſeveral Mercian monaſteries, died at Tricengham, and by her own order was interred at Heanburge; but on the approach of the Danes, in 875, her body was conveyed to Cheſter, as a place of ſecurity from the inſults of thoſe pagans*.

IT is uncertain how long this community exiſted. It probably was ruined by the ravages of the barbarians in 895, and finally ſuppreſſed; for we are told, that from the reign of king Athelſtan, in 925, to the coming of the Normans, a ſet of canons ſecular were eſtabliſhed in the place of the nuns. This pious deed was that of Ethelſleda; who reſtored the buildings; which afterwards were repaired by earl Leofric, huſband to the famous Godiva. The houſe was richly endowed by the kings Edmund and [175] Edgar, and by Leofric. Edgar's charter begins in a ſtrain equally pious and ſublime*.

ON the acceſſion of Hugh Lupus to this earldom, he ſuppreſſed the canons ſecular, and eſtabliſhed in their place a colony of his countrymen, Benedictines, from Bec in Normandy; for probably he did not care to truſt his ſalvation to the prayers of the Saxon religious. It is ſaid, that this piece of piety was owing to a fit of illneſs which the earl was ſeized with; when he took the uſual way in thoſe days of ſoothing a troubled conſcience. Anſelm, abbot of Bec, and afterwards archbiſhop of Canterbury, regulated the new foundation; and appointed his chaplain Richard to be the firſt abbot. Lupus and his ſucceſſors were very liberal in their endowments; and the place flouriſhed till its diſſolution; which was effected by the ſurrender of the laſt abbot, Thomas Clerk; who received in reward the office of the new deanry, which he enjoyed only ſix weeks. The revenues of this great abby were, according to Dugdale, 1003 l. 5 s. II d. to Speed, 1073 l. 17 s. 7 d.

ACCORDING to a ſurvey of this abby, preſerved in the Harleian collection, its extent was very conſiderable; ſurrounding the preſent ſquare, and covering ſeveral parts of the adjacent ground. The old abby-court is adorned on two ſides by very handſome modern houſes, built between the years 1750 and 1754, on leaſes granted by the dean and chapter. Another ſide is filled by the new palace; an elegant pile, which roſe under the auſpices of that munificent and hoſpitable prelate Edmund [176] Keen, preſent biſhop of Ely. Its place was before occupied by the houſe of the antient abbots.

THE old gate is yet ſtanding: is a plain but noble entrance; and conſiſts, towards the ſtreet, of two Gothic arches included within a round one, of great diameter; and which appears to have been of far older date. One ſide was the porter's lodge; on the other, a place called St. Thomas's court. A chapel, dedicated to the ſame ſaint, ſtood where the preſent deanry is; and, from its antient appearance, ſeems to have been externally the ſame building.

THE cloiſters are entire; but conſiſt only of three walks, the court extending on one ſide quite to the church. By the different arms on the roof, it appears to have been repaired at ſeveral times, from the time of Edward III. to that of W [...]ſey whoſe arms, with thoſe of the ſee of York, with the cardinal's cap, are alſo to be ſeen here.

ON one ſide ſtood the fratry;SCHOOL a vaſt room, which is uſed as a free-ſchool, founded by Henry VIII. in the 36th year of his reign, for twenty-four boys, who are appointed by the dean and chapter: they may continue there four years, if their conduct be regular; but the dean has power to grant a year of grace. No boy (unleſs he be a choiriſter) ought to be choſen before he is nine years old, or after he is fifteen. Two maſters are appointed for their inſtruction, a chief and an under maſter; elected by the dean and chapter.

IN a corner of the eaſt-ſide of the cloiſter, is a paſſage and ſtairs to the dormitory; and the antient prieſts cellars and kitchen. On the ſame ſide is a paſſage, formerly called the Maidens aile,

[figure]

[177]which leads to the little abby-court, a part of the antient building belonging to the prebends.

THE beautiful edifice,CHAPTER-HOUSE. the chapter-houſe, ſtands in the ſame walk, of the cloiſter. The veſtibule is arched, ſupported by four columns, each ſurrounded with eight ſlender pilaſters without capitals, which converge near the top of the column, and ſpread over the roof. The dimenſions of this room are thirty-three feet four inches, by twenty-ſeven four; the height twelve feet nine. On the ſides is a ſtone-feat for the attendants on the buſineſs of the chapter.

THE chapter-houſe is fifty feet long, twenty-ſix feet broad, end thirty-five feet high; at the upper end is a window, conſiſting of five lancet-ſhaped diviſions; and on each ſide is another of three. At the height of eight feet and a half from the floor, a narrow gallery runs along three parts of the room, divided from the windows by a triplet of moſt elegant, lofty, ſlender pillars. The roof is of ſtone; the ſprings of the arches which ſecure it, are ſupported by neat pilaſters with palmy capitals.

THE modern book-caſes deform the lower parts of the room, as high as the bottoms of the windows. The walls, 1 conjecture, had been ornamented with pilaſters, and had a ſtone-ſeat like that of the veſtibule. The entrance, both from the cloiſters and between the veſtibule and the chapter-houſe, are Gothic; but apparently of a later ſpecies of architecture than either of thoſe rooms.

THE chapter-houſe was built, in all probability, in the time of Rendle the firſt, earl of Cheſler, who died in 1128, after enjoying [178] his earldom eight years. The great earl, Hugh Lupus uncle to Randle, had been interred in the church-yard of the abby: the firſt care of the nephew was to remove the body into this building*, as the moſt honorable place; a reſpect which would certainly have been payed to it, had this edifice exiſted at the time of his death. Here his remains continued unmoleſted till the year 1724, when, in digging within the chapter-houſe, they were found in a ſtone coffin, wrapped in leather, with a croſs on the breaſt; and at the head of the coffin a ſtone in ſhape of a T, with the wolf's head, the alluſion to his name, engraven on it. Other coffins were diſcovered beneath the two rooms, of earls, their counteſſes, or of abbots; but the great leveller death had reduced them to duſt indiſtinguiſhable.

THE earls who were interred here, were Hugh, who died in 1101; Randle the firſt, or de Meſchina, in 1128; Randle the ſecond, or de Gernouns, who was poiſoned in 1155, by William Peverel; Hugh Cyvelioc, who died at Leek in 1181; Randle the third, or de Blundeville, who died at Wallingford in 1232, where his bowels were interred; his heart was buried at the abby of Dieulacres in Staffordſhire, and his body tranſported to Cheſter: finally, John Scot, who, in 1237, underwent the ſame fate as Randle the ſecond. So that every earl of the Norman line were depoſited here, excepting Richard, who periſhed by ſhipwreck; in 1120.

[figure]

[179]OF the abbots, Geofry, who died in 1208, and ſix others, were buried in the chapter-houſe or its veſtibule*.

THE church bounds the north ſide of the cloiſters. The lower part of the wall has a row of arches, now filled up, and ſavors more of antiquity than any other part, This, and a portion of the north-tranſepts, are the oldeſt parts of the preſent building; but there is no part left at preſent that can boaſt of a remote date. All the labors of the Saxons, and almoſt all of thoſe of its re-founder Hugh Lupus, are now loſt. The abbot, Simon Ripley, who was elected in 1485, finiſhed the middle aile and the tower. The body is ſupported by ſix ſharp-pointed arches. The columns are thick, ſurrounded by pilaſters with ſmall rounded capitals. Above is a gallery, with a neat ſtone baluſtrade in the parts where it is entire, and a row of large and broad, pointed windows; which is the general ſtyle.

THE preſent cathedral appears to have been built (excepting the ſlight fragments juſt mentioned) in the reigns of Henry VI. VII. and VIII; but principally in that of the two laſt. The beautiful weſt-end was begun in 1508, and the firſt ſtone laid with much ceremony. The window over the door is filled with beautiful tracery; and the door-caſe enriched with figures and other ſculpture. The deſcent into the church is down a multitude of ſteps; ſo there is reaſon to ſuſpect, that the preſent was on the foundation of the antient church; which had been on a level with the old ſtreets, which we know are many feet higher than they were originally, by the acceſſion of rubbiſh, and other adventitious matter.

[180]THE center beneath the great tower is greatly injured by a modern bell-loft, which conceals a crown-work of ſtone, that would have a good effect was the loft deſtroyed.

FROM the ſprings of arches that appear in the walls of the n [...]e and its ailes, it appears as if the architect had intended to have vaulted them, in the manner in which St. Mary's chapel and the choiral ailes are done.

THE choir is very neat; and the Gothic tabernacle-work over the ſtalls carved in a light and elegant manner. The arches in the galleries are divided by pretty ſlender pillars; and perhaps were of a date prior to the body of the church; probably the work of abbot Oldham, who was a benefactor, and had a concern in the building.

IN the chancel are four ſtone-ſtalls for the officiating prieſts; with carved Gothic work above; a receſs or two for the preſerving either the reliques or the ſacred utenſils. About the walls are diſperſed the monuments of ſeveral biſhops and churchmen; but none of any magnificence; and one of Sir William Manwaring, a gallant young man, who ſell in the defence of the city during its long ſiege.

THE biſhop's throne ſtands on a ſtone baſe, as remarkable for its ſculpture as its original uſe. Its form is an oblong ſquare; and each ſide moſt richly ornamented with Gothic carving, arches, and pinnacles. Around the upper part is a range of little images, deſigned to repreſent the kings and ſaints of the Mercian kingdom. Each held in one hand a ſcroll with the name inſcribed. Fanatic ignorance mutilated many of the labels, as well as the figures; but the laſt were reſtored about [181] the year 1748; but the workman, by an unlucky miſtake, has placed female heads on male ſhoulders, and given manly faces to the bodies of the fair-ſex. At firſt, there were thirty-four figures: four are loſt; the remainder are faithfully deſcribed, and the hiſtory of each monarch and ſaint accurately given, in a little pamphlet, publiſhed in 1749, by the worthy Doctor William Cooper, who dedicated the profits for the uſe of the bluecoat hoſpital in this city. I beg leave to diſſent from the notion of this having been the ſhrine of St. Werbugh, ST. WERBURCH'S SHRINE as it is popularly called. It certainly was nothing more than the pedeſtal on which the real ſhrine, or, as the French call it, la chaſſe, ſtood, which contained the ſacred reliques. Theſe are made of gold, ſilver, vermeil, i. e, ſilver gilt, or ſome precious materials, and often enriched with gems of great value. They are of different forms, ſuch as churches, cabinets, &c. and, ſhould the relique be a head, or limb, the chaſſe is made conformable to the ſhape of the part. Theſe are ſeated uſually conſpicuous on an elevated place; and are always moveable, in order that they may be carried in proceſſion, either in honor of the ſaint, or to divert ſome great calamity. Thus, in 1180, the ſhrine of St. Werburgh was brought out to ſtop the rage of a fire in the city, which for a long time was invincible by every other means; but the approach of the holy remains inſtantly proved their ſanctity, by putting an end to its furious deſolation.

BEFORE I take leave of this part of the church,ASSASSINATION. I muſt mention an impious outrage committed at the high altar in 1492, by a gentleman of Wales, who wounded almoſt to death one Patrick Filling, I ſuppoſe the officiating prieſt. The church, as [182] uſual, was immediately ſuſpended, till a luſtration in order to purify it from the foul ſtain was performed. The abby was reconciled on St. Werburgh's day; the pariſh-church on that of St. Oſwald *.

AN impiety of this kind was committed in the church of Notre Dame at Paris, in 1670. The prieſt died of his wound; and expiation was made by order of the archbiſhop: public prayers were offered up for forty hours in all the churches; proceſſions made; a faſt of three days appointed. The whole terminated by a general (reparation) ſatisfaction of the injury by a grand proceſſion, in which the whole parlement aſſiſted. The ſtreets were covered with tapeſtry, and the avenues barred up with the chains to keep off the mob; and thus the place was reſtored to the diſcharge of the ſacred offices.

IT is with a kind of horror I read in the zealous Fox, of an outrage of this ſort committed in our own kingdom, in the reign of queen Mary . The enthuſiaſt was taken, and puniſhed by the ſtriking off the criminal hand, and by being burnt: yet the hiſtorian gives him a place among the more well-meaning ſufferers of that barbarous period.

BEHIND the choir is St. Mary's chapel; and on each ſide is an aile. The monuments in theſe parts are in no wiſe remarkable. In its north-aile is a tomb with a flowery croſs, that of an abbot; and another of an altar-form, aſcribed to Henry IV. emperor of Germany, who, according to a legendary tale, was [183] ſaid to have eſcaped from his troubles, and to have reſided in Godſtall lane, in this city; to have died there; and to have been interred in the abby. It is very uncertain whether this great but cal [...]mitous prince was ever in our kingdom; but it is very certain be finiſhed his days at Liege *, in 1106, and was magnificently interred in the cathedral of that city.

The tranſepts are of unequal lengths. The north is very large. dedicated to St. Oſwald, and is the pariſh-church of that name. This is ſaid to have ſtood on the firſt church of St. Peter and St. Paul; which was afterwards changed to that of the Holy Trinity, and finally, to the name it now bears. On the rebuilding of the church, this aile was deſignedly enlarged, and allotted by the monks to the neighboring inhabitants, who were for the moſt part their ſervants or tenants. At firſt, the religious wiſhed to have the whole to themſelves, and on that account built, at a diſtance from this aile, a chapel called St. Nicholas's, and endowed it with a vicarage, for the uſe of the laity; but afterwards, at the requeſt. of the inhabitants, and by compoſition between the mayor and abbot, about the year 1488, they were reſtored to the uſe of the church of St. Oſwald, which they ſtill retain.

THE chapel falling into diſuſe, was purchaſed by the citizens, and converted into their common-hall for diſpatch of buſineſs. In later times, ſince the building of the exchange, it has been [184] converted into a magazine for wool; into a carrier's warehouſe; and part into a theatre, acting under parlementary licenſe.

THIS abby afforded only a temporary ſanctuary to the proſhgate. The privelege which Hugh Lupus granted is particular: he ordered, that no thief or other malefactor, that attended the fair held at the feaſt of St. Werburgh, ſhould be attached, unleſs he committed ſome new offence there*. This, ſays King, drew a vaſt: concourſe of looſe people together at that ſeaſon, and proved of ſingular advantage to Randle the third, earl of Cheſter; who, in being ſurrounded in the caſtle of Rudland by a numerous army of Welſh, and in great danger, ſent for relief to his general, Roger Lacy, at that time attending the midſummer-fair. Lacy inſtantly collected a body of minſtrels, fiddlers, and idle people, who were aſſembled here on account of this privelege; marched with them into Wales, and relieved the earl from his diſtreſs. Randle, on his return, immediately rewarded Lacy with a full power over all the inſtruments of his preſervation, megiſterium omnium lecatorum et meretricam totius CESTRESHIRE. By this grant he was empowered to require the attendance of all the minſtrels and muſicians of the county on the anniverſary of the exploit. They were to play before him and his heirs for ever, in a proceſſion to the church of St. John; and, after divine ſervice, to the place where he kept his court. The minſtrels were there examined concerning their lives and converſation; whether any of them played without annual licence from their lord, or whether they had heard any words among their fellows [185] tending to his diſhonor. Theſe priveleges were afterwards devolved by John, ſon of Roger de Lacy, to Hugh de Dutton and his heirs. The proceſſion and courts were held by their ſteward within my memory; but the cuſtom is now dropt. I find alſo, that Dutton and his heirs clamed at the feaſt from the minſtrels, quatuor lagenas vini et unam lancem, four bottles of wine, and one lance; and at the ſame time a fee of four pence halfpenny: and from every Meretrix in Cheſhire, and in the city of Cheſter, officium ſuum exercente, four pence*.

THE other religious houſes in this city were,CARMELITES. the Carmelites, or White friers, who had a convent in that part of St. Martin's pariſh ſtill called White-friers lane: part of Mr. Marſden's houſe is formed of the remains. The church, as appears by Braun's view of this city in 1581, ſtood a little weſt of it.

BY the charter of Roger Lacy to the abby of Norton, it appears, that there was a monaſtery in the pariſh of St. Michael which he grants to the canons of the former. We are left ignorant of the order it was of.

IN Trinity pariſh ſtood a houſe of Franciſcan or Grey friers, which biſhop Tanner conjectures might have been as antient as the time of Henry III. The ſite was granted to one John Cokke. I imagine that this ſtood in the Yatch field, near the place occupied by the new linnen-hall. By Speed's plan of Cheſter, it appears that there was a church there in his time; and to this day painted tiles and painted glaſs, reliques of eccleſiaſtical ſinery, are ſtill dug up.

[186]IN the pariſh of St. Martin's* was a monaſtery of preaching or Black friers, ſaid by Speed to have been founded by a biſhop of Cheſter, meaning (as Tanner obſerves) of Lichfield. This, as well as the other religious houſe in this pariſh, was granted to the ſame John Cokke. Part of this houſe, and its fine vaults, are occupied by Hanry Heſketh eſquire.

ST. JOHN'S,ST. JOHN'S. which lies without the walls on the eaſt-ſide of the city, was once a collegiate church, reputed to have been founded by king Ethelred in 689, on being admoniſhed by a viſion to build it on the ſpot where he ſhould find a white hind. After the ruin of the city by the Danes, the church was reſtored by his nameſake, earl of Mercia, in 906; and was in the next century repaired and endowed by earl Leofric. A monaſtery was alſo founded here; for hiſtorians record, that king Edgar was rowed from his palace to the monaſtery of St. John. The Doomſday book alſo mentions the monaſtery of St. Mary, near the ſame church. This, beſides, was the cathedral during the ſhort time the ſee was removed from Lichfield by biſhop Peter. In an old plan of it appears a houſe called the biſhop's.

AT the diſſolution, here was found a dean and ſeven prebendaries or canons (in the collation of the biſhop of Lichfield); ſeven vicars, two clerks, four choiriſters, ſextons, and other ſervants; moſt of whoſe houſes are diſtinguiſhed in the ſame plan. Their yearly revenue, after repriſals, was only 27 l. 17 s. 4 d. The ſite of the college, and ſome part [187] of the buildings, were granted by queen Elizabeth to John Forteſcue *.

ON the eaſt-ſide of the church-yard ſtood the chapel of St. Anne, belonging to the brethren and ſiſters of the fraternity of St. Anne . This in later days was called Cholmondly hall; but is now totally demoliſhed.

ST. JOHN'S, when entire, was a magnificent pile. The tower once ſtood in the center; but falling down in 1574, was never rebuilt. The chancel was probably demoliſhed at the ſame time; but at that end are ſome fine arches, and other remains of antient chapels. Withinſide are curious ſpecimens of the clumſy ſtrength of Saxon architecture, in the maſſy columns and round arches which ſupport the body. The tower is now placed at the weſt-end; and has on one ſide the legend, repreſented by the figure of a man and a hind.

ON the ſouth-ſide of the church-yard, impending over a high cliff, ſuppoſed to be the Radeclive of the Doomſday book, is a ſmall antient building, probably a chapel, called the Anchoritage, placed over the retreat of ſome holy hermits. This might have been their place of ſepulture; for in the live rock were found two bodies depoſited in coffin-ſhaped cavities. This might have been the place, where legend ſays that Harold, the laſt Saxon king, ended his days; for it was long believed by the Engliſh, that he eſcaped from the battle of Haſtings, and finiſhed his life in retirement.

DOCTOR TANNER ſuppoſes, that the convent of Benedictine nuns, dedicated to St. Mary, originated either from the monaſtery [188] of St. John, or was a relique of one of the old nunneries belonging to St. Werburgh. This, perhaps, may have been the caſe; for, from a charter preſerved by Dugdale, it appears, that Ranale the ſecond, earl of Cheſter, had obtained for the nuns of Cheſter, certain crofts from Hugh Fitzoliver, for them to build a church and convent on; which implies that there had been nuns in the city previous to his grant*. I find alſo, that Edward the black prince had been a benefactor; for there is mention of a charter of his to the nuns, granted in the 32d of his father's reign. This was ſuppreſſed (with the other religious houſes) in 1537. At that time Elizabeth Groſvenour was prioreſs, who made a ſurrender of the houſe, and had a penſion for life of twenty pounds; and eleven of the ſiſters had alſo penſions, from 4 l. to 1 l. 6 s. 8 d. each. The ſite was granted, in the 33d of Henry VIII. to the Urian Breretons, ſenior and junior. The revenues were, according to Dugdale, 66 l. 18. s. 4 d.; to Speed 99 l. 16 s. 2 d. I have a ground-plot of this nunnery; by which it appears to have been a compact but ſmall building. The church was twenty-two yards long and fifteen broad; and ſupported in the middle by a row of pillars. The chapel was nine yards by four three-quarters; the cloiſters thirty yards by twenty-one. It ſtood in the nurſery-garden on the weſt-ſide of the city, ſtill called the Nun's garden; where veſtiges of the walls and arches are yet remaining.

[189]WITHOUT the North-gate ſtood a hoſpital dedicated to St. John the Baptiſt, and formerly a ſanctuary, and endowed with great priveleges. The maſterſhip was granted by Edward II. to the prior of Berkinhead and his ſucceſſors; but afterwards diſpoſed of by the crown to ſecular clergy. The houſe, at the diſſolution, conſiſted of a chaplain and ſix poor brethren, whoſe income, after repriſals, was 13 l. 7 s. 10 d *. Mention is made by biſhop Tanner of the liberties of the hoſpital of St. Giles being confirmed by Edward III. I am told, that a fragment, ſuppoſed to be part of this charity, is to be ſeen in the Foreſt ſtreet.

THE laſt antient hoſpital was inſtituted for lepers, in the ſuburbs of Boughton, about the beginning of Edward II.'s reign; I think, oppoſite to the place of excution: the burying-ground is ſtill made uſe of by the pariſh of St. Oſwald.

THE number of pariſhes are nine. None of the churches are remarkable, excepting thoſe of St. Peter's and Trinity; which are diſtinguiſhed by their handſome ſpires. The firſt was finiſhed in 1489; when the parſon and others ſignalized themſelves by eating part of a gooſe on it, and flinging the reſt into the four ſtreets.

THE number of inhabitants, including the ſuburbs of Boughton and Hanbridge, are eſtimated to be fourteen thouſand ſeven hundred and thirteen. The houſes are almoſt entirely ſituated in a dry ſand-ſtone rock. Whether it be owing to that, the clearneſs of the air, and the purity of the water, it is certain [190] that the proportion of death among the inhabitants is only as one to thirty-one: whereas I am informed, by my worthy friend Doctor Haggarth of this city, that in Leeds, one in twenty-one; in Northampton and Shrewſbury, one in twenty-ſix; and in London, one in twenty and three-fourths, annually pay the great tribute of nature.

I DO not recollect any thing remarkable on the outſide of the walls which has been unnoticed, unleſs it be the Rood-eye, and the adjacent places. The Dee, after quitting the contracted paſs at the bridge, flows beneath an incurvated clayey cliff; and waſhes on the right a fine and extenſive meadow, long ſince protected againſt its ravages by a lofty dike. I imagine, that it lay open to the tides till about the year 1587, when the corporation (to whom it belongs) demiſed to one Thomas Lyneal, ſervant to Sir Francis Walſingham, this paſture for the term of twenty-one years, together with as much land as he could gain to it from the ſea. He was alſo to make at his own coſts a quay for boats and barks to unload at full ſea, near the water-gate; for which he was at firſt to have two pence for every veſſel paſſing by with any lading; but after that, the ſum was encreaſed to four pence: and Lyneal was to pay an annual rent of 20 l. to the city. At firſt he met with ſome obſtructions: Sir Francis therefore interfered, in order that his ſervant might proceed without further interruption*.

THE name of this ſpot is taken from eye, its watery ſituation, and rood, the croſs which ſtood there, whoſe baſe is ſtill to be [191] ſeen. On this place the luſty youth, in former days, exerciſed themſelves in manly ſports of the age; in archery, running, leaping, and wreſtling; in mock-fights, and gallant and romantic triumphs. From the hints dropt by Daniel King, I imagine them to have been of the ſame nature with thoſe practiſed by the young men of the metropolis, deſcribed by Fitz-Stephen, a writer cotemporary with Henry II. ‘The lay ſons of the citizens ruſh out of the gates in ſhoals, furniſhed with lances and ſhields; the younger ſort with javelins pointed, but diſarmed of their ſteel; they ape the feats of war, and act the ſham-fight. Part took the field well mounted. The generous courſers neigh and champ the bit. At length, when the courſe begins, and the youthful combatants are divided into claſſes or parties, one body retreats, and another purſues without being able to overtake them; while, in another quarter, the purſuers overtake the foe, unhorſe them, and paſs them many a length. The elders of the city and the fathers of the parties, and the rich and the wealthy, come into the field on horſeback to behold the exerciſes’ *. One would imagine, by what follows, the antient hiſtorian was deſcribing the ſports of Aſcanius and his youthful train on the plains of Sicily:

Poſtquam omnem laeti conſeſſum, oculoſque ſuoram
Luſtravere in equis, &c.
Now round the ring, before their fathers, ride
The boys, in all their military pride;
Till the loud laſh reſounding from afar
Gave the glad ſignal of the mimic war;
[192]Strait, in three bands diſtinct, they break away,
Divide in order, and their ranks diſplay:
Swift at the ſummons they return, and throw
At once their hoſtile lances at the foe:
Then take a new excurſion on the plain;
Round within round, an endleſs courſe maintain;
And now advance, and now retreat again;
With well-diſſembled rage their rivals dare,
And pleaſe the crowd with images of war.
Alternate now they turn their backs in flight,
Now dart their lances, and renew the fight;
Then in a moment from the combat ceaſe,
Rejoin their ſcatter'd bands, and move in peace.
PITT.

A STANDARD was the prize of emulation in the ſports celebrated on the Rood-eye *: but in the year 1609 the amuſements took a new form; and under the reign of the peaceful James, the youthful cavaliers layed aſide their mimic war, and began that ſpecies of horſemanſhip which the romantic philoſopher, lord Herbert, thought unworthy of a man of honor; "for," ſays he, 'the exerciſe I do not approve, is the running of horſes, there 'being much cheating in that kind.

THE firſt prizes we hear of, after the ſuppreſſion of the triumph, were a bell and bowl, to be run for on St. George's day; which were provided in 1609 by Mr. Robert Amery, formerly ſheriff of the city, and were brought down to the Rood-eye with great ſolemnity. This ſeems to have been the origin of the plate given by the city, and annually run for on the ſame day, [193] to the preſent time. A bell was a common prize: a little golden bell was the reward of victory in 1607, at the races near York; whence came the proverb for ſucceſs of any kind, to bear the bell.

AT one end of the Rood-eye ſtands the Houſe of Induſtry; POOR-HOUSE. a large and uſeful building, founded in 1757, by money raiſed by the city on life-annuities, for ſeveral improvements within its liberties. Here the poor are provided for in a fit manner, and to the great eaſe of the pariſhes; who are relieved from the burden of a numerous poor, who were too idle to work, and too proud to enter into this comfortable Aſylum. Thoſe of the pariſh of Hawarden are alſo ſent here, by virtue of an agreement made between the governors of this charity and the overſeers of the poor of that pariſh. The inmates contribute, by ſome coarſe linen manufactures, towards their ſupport.

A LITTLE beyond this building are the quays,QUAYS. cranes, warehouses, and other requiſites for carrying on the naval trade of this city. Theſe are oppoſite to the Water-gate, and have been much improved of late years; and the intervening ſpace has not long ſince been filled with a neat ſtreet. Ships of 350 tons burden can now reach the quays, where the ſpring-tides riſe at a medium fifteen feet: the neap-tides, eight. In the year 1674, this port was in ſo deplorable a ſtate, and ſo choaked with ſands, that a veſſel of twenty tons could not arrive here; but the ſhips were obliged to lie under Neſton, ten miles diſtant; which gave riſe to the aſſemblage of houſes called Parkgate, built on the ſhore beneath that town. A quay, called the New quay, (now in ruins) was erected near this place in the beginning [194] * of the laſt century, for the conveniency of loading and unloading the veſſels trading with Cheſter; and the goods were carried to and from the city by land. The misfortune of the port of Cheſter at length gave riſe to the proſperity of Leverpool, about this time a very inconſiderable place. It now began to diſcover its own advantages of ſituation; and quickly emerged from its deſpicable ſtate to its preſent flouriſhing condition.

IN 1674,New Cut. ſome friend to the former prevaled on Mr. Andrew Yarranton, a gentleman extremely converſant in the commercial advantages of this iſland, to make a ſurvey of the river Dee and its eſtuary. He drew a plan, formed the project of a new channel, a ſcheme for recovering from the ſea a large tract of land, and reſtoring the antient navigation even to the preſent quays: and this he got to be preſented to the duke of York, the patron, at that time, of all uſeful undertakings. He alſo ſuggeſted the idea of a canal from the collieries at Aſton near Hawarden; which was to drop into this new channel, and facilitate the carriage of coal up to the city. Future times had the advantage of his inventive genius. Both plans were brought into execution without any great deviation from Mr. Yarranton's project. His new cut was to end oppoſite to Flint; the preſent opens oppoſite to Wepra, on this ſide of Flint. Sir John Glynne's little canal approaches the Dee, about two miles below the city, [195] Mr. Yarranton's coal canal was to fall into the Dee near to Flint.

AN act of parlement was obtained for the recovering and preſerving the navigation of the river, for ſettling the duties on ſhips, and for the eſtabliſhing two ferries for the conveniency of travellers into the county of Flint. Other acts were paſſed in the years 1732, 1740, 43, 1752; and the works were begun with vigor. The project was carried on by ſubſcription; and the adventurers were to be rewarded by the lands they were empowered to gain on both ſides, from ‘the white ſands or the ſea from Cheſter; and between the county of Cheſhire, on the north-ſide, and the county of Flint on the fouth-ſide; being ſands, ſoil, and ground not bearing graſs.’ Party conteſts at firſt filled the ſubſcriptions: zeal for the houſe of Hanover was at that time mixed, in this city, with zeal for its commercial intereſt; but in a little time it was diſcovered to be the madneſs of many, but the gain of few. The expences proved enormous; multitudes were obliged to ſell out at above ninety per cent. loſs; and, their ſhares being bought by perſons of more wealth and foreſight, at length the plan was brought to a conſiderable degree of utility; and a ſine canal formed, guarded by vaſt banks, in which the river is conſined for the ſpace of ten miles; along which ſhips of three hundred and fifty tons burden may ſafely be brought up to the quays. Much land has been gained from the ſea; and good farms now appear in places not long ſince poſſeſſed by the unruly element.

I REMEMBER an almoſt uſeleſs tide flowing about the water-tower, [196] the antient channel of the Dee flowing under Blacon point; and the acceſs to the county of Flint, on this ſide, open only at the receſs of tides, and annually occaſioning the loſs of multitudes of lives. Two ferries are eſtabliſhed at fit places. The lower is the proper paſſage for travellers by Holyhead into the kingdom of Ireland; and calls aloud for the aid of a turnpike, to render it at all times pervious; or the road may be continued to Saltney, along the flat, ſo as to fall into the other turnpike on the marſh.

I SHALL now take a ſhort view of the trade of this city,TRADE. as it ſtood in the years 1771 and 1776. I bring the laſt into ſight, in order to ſhew how far this port has been affected by the commotions of our American ſubjects; and oppoſe it to the commerce of 1771, when it appears to have been in its meridian, ſince the reſtoration of the channel. In that year were entered inwards

297 coaſting-veſſels; 19 of which were laden with groceries, and other goods from London.

526 coaſt ſhips outwards; of theſe 23 came from the port of London, and were laden here with lead, iron cannon, two thouſand tons of cheeſe, and other goods.

IN the ſame year, 95 veſſels were entered inwards from foreign parts; and 216 entered inwards from Ireland, Portugal, Spain, Italy, and America.

FROM Norway and the Baltic, are imported timber, flax, tallow, hemp, iron, and deals.

FROM Leghorn, large quantities of kid and lamb ſkins; which are manufactured by the glovers, after being dreſſed here. [197] This, in fact, is the only manufacture which the city can boaſt of. I find, that in the reigns of queen Elizabeth, James I. and the beginning of that of Charles I. here was a vaſt trade in calves ſkins. In the firſt of thoſe monopolizing times, the queen grants one Arthur Balſano a licence to export 6000 dickers of leather of calves ſkins, ten dozens to every dicker, for ſeven years, paying five ſhillings per dicker. James I. granted to James Maxwel Eſq a licence to export 18,000 dickers, for the ſame duty, and for twenty-one years; and this was afterwards confirmed to him by Charles I*. This Maxwel was one of the grooms of the bedchamber to his majeſty; and in the preceding reign, by a piece of inſolence to a gentleman of the inns of court, brought on him the reſentment of the Engliſh; and was obliged to atone for it by making due ſubmiſſion. The firſt grant might be made to him by James, to make amends for the mortifications he had undergone.

FROM Spain and Portugal are imported great quantities of cork, fruit, oil of olives, nuts, Barilla aſhes, and raiſins; and ſeveral hundred tons of wine from Portugal; which laſt form the greateſt foreign import of this city.

WHILE the trade with America was open, fiſh and oil were brought from Newfoundland; and a ſmall trade was carried on with Caroling.

THE exports this year were upwards of 6000 chaldrons of coal from the Cheſhire and Flintſhire collieries (which lie within this port); 1000 tons of lead; 300 of lead ore; 300 of oak [198] bark; all theſe to foreign parts. Beſides 3470 tons of lead, and 431 of lead ore, ſent coaſtways; that is, to the ports of London and Leverpool, vae! nimium vicina! for the purpoſe of re-exportation.

IN 1776, 208 coaſting-veſſels were entered inwards, and 619 outwards.

166 ſhips entered inwards from foreign parts, including thoſe trading between Dublin and Parkgate; and 131 outwards. The following table will ſhew the diviſion of the commerce.

 Inwards.Outwards.
America,25
France, 11
Flanders, 1
Holland, 1
Ireland,140104
Iſle of Man,34
Portugal,33
Spain,4 
Italy,31
Norway, Ruſſia, and Pruſſia,101

2877 chaldrons of coal, 1184 tons of lead, and 168 of lead ore, were ſent abroad; but ſo exhauſted are our oak-trees, that only 18 tons of bark were ſhipped. 2813 tons of lead, and 431 of lead ore, were ſent coaſtways.

FROM the table of entries it appears, that the great trade of this city is with Ireland; which receives annnally from hence [...] [199] a magazine) large quantities of hops, woollen cloths, worſted ſtuffs, hoſiery, fuſtians, Mancheſter goods, cheeſe, wrought-iron, iron great guns, hardware, bound and unbound books, carpets, flint-glaſs, wrought ſilks, and great quantities of foreign goods ſent from London by land, and ſhipped from this port.

IN return, it imports from Ireland, at the Midſummer and Michaelmas fairs, upwards of 1000 boxes and packs of linen cloth, containing 25,000 pieces at leſt: beſides 300 boxes or packs imported into Leverpool, and ſent acroſs the Merſey to Ince, from whence they are conveyed in carts to Cheſter. Theſe form all together a million of yards each fair. This trade began no longer ago than the year 1736, in which 449, 654. yards were imported. The importations continually increaſed till the laſt year of the late war; from which period it has been on a par.

IRELAND alſo ſends conſiderable quantities of lamb-ſkins, wool, linen and bay-yarn, tallow, hides, butter, feathers, and quills, ox bones and hoofs, glue, ſheep and cat guts; calve-velves, proviſions, and live cattle.

THE number of ſhips belonging to this port ſhew the uncommercial genius of its inhabitants; there being only twenty-two in the foreign trade, containing in all 1449 tons, and 169 men: and 13 in the coaſt-trade, whoſe tonnage is 680 tons, and number of men 58: yet the port extends, on the Cheſhire ſide of the eſtuary, as far as the end of Wiral; and on the Flintſhire, to the Ver-rýd, or the mouth of the Clwyd.

THERE was lately a very fair proſpect of adding much to the trade of the city, by an i [...]land navigation,CANAL. which was begun [200] with great ſpirit a few years ago. It was to run through the county beneath Beeſton caſtle, and to terminate near Middlewich. Another branch was to extend to Namptwich. One mouth opens into the Dee, below the water-tower. A fine baſon is formed, into which the boats are to deſcend, by means of five ſucceſſive locks, beneath the northern walls of the city, cut in the live rock. A few miles of this deſign are completed: but, by an unhappy miſcalculation of expence, and by unforeſeen difficulties occurring in the execution, ſuch enormous charges were incurred, as to put a ſtop for the preſent to all proceedings. The other branch, which was to extend towards Middlewich, was to end within a limited diſtance from the great canal between the Trent and Merſey navigation. The great objects were the ſalt and cheeſe trade; and coal for the ſupply of the interior parts of Cheſhire, from the vaſt collieries in Staffordſhire. Share alſo in the exportation of hard-ware, earthen-ware, and all the manufactures of the internal part of the kingdom within its reach, might have been reaſonably expected.

THE idea of a canal along the dead flat between Cheſter and Ince has been long ſince conceived, by perſons very converſant in the nature of the trade of this city. One mouth might have opened into the Dee in the place of the preſent; another near Ince, which would create a ready intercourſe with Leverpool, the Weever, and the ſalt-works and great dairies on that river; with Warrington, and with the flouriſhing town of Mancheſter, and a numerous ſet of places within reach of the Merſey, and of the canal belonging to that uſeful Peer, the duke of Bridgewater, to which the greateſt of our inland navigations is connected. [201] This little cut the city might, and ſtill may, enjoy unenvied, unrivalled; and, what is a material conſideration, the diſtance is trifling (ſeven miles*); the expences ſmall, and the profits to the undertakers great.

ON leaving the city, I repaſſed Hanbridge; and at the may pole took the left-hand road, which is a continuation of the Roman road from the river. The ſtrait direction is the only proof of its antiquity, till it falls into the fields on the left, where its tract is often diſtinguiſhable by certain ridges or elevated ſpots. The farmer alſo, in digging, often falls on adventitious matters; ſuch as gravel, and remains of pavements. It points towards Eccleſton, near which are the reliques of a mount; the ſite, perhaps, of a ſmall caſtlet. It paſſes through Eaton park, and croſſes the Dee at Oldford.

THE village of Eccleſton is prettily ſeated near the Dee, ECCLESTON. and commands a view of the towers and ſpires of Cheſter riſing above the wooded banks. The moſt extenſive proſpect is from a bench on Eccleſton hill, on the road-ſide; which takes in the vaſt environs of Wales, Cheſhire, and part of Shropſhire, forming a n admirable compoſition of rich cultivation, bounded by hills of various forms.

ECCLESTON retains the ſame name which it had at the Conqueſt. It was held at that time by Gilbert de Venables, from Hag [...] Lupus; before that event, by Edwin a freeman. On the demeſne land were two ſervants, four villeyns, and a boor, a boat and a net. Part of the place afterwards fell to the Vernors of Kinderlen; and finally, by a late purchaſe, was added by the family of [202] the Groſvenours to their antient property in this pariſh. The church is a rectory dedicated to St. Mary.

A LITTLE farther is Eaton, EATOS. or the hamlet on the water; a name the moſt common of any in England. At the Conqueſt, here was a fiſhery, which employed ſix fiſhermen, and yielded a thouſand ſalmon. This fiſhery has long ſince ceaſed; but during its exiſtence, the miniſter of Eccleſton clamed the twentieth fiſh. The ſeat of the antient family of the Greſvenours lies in this townſhip; a brick houſe, built about the latter end of the laſt century. The Greſvenours came in with the Conqueror, and took their name from the office they held in the Norman court, that of grand huntſman. Their firſt ſettlement in this county was, Over Loſtock, beſtowed by Hugh Lupus on his great nephew Robert le Greſvenour. In 1234, Richard le Groſvenour purchaſed and fixed his ſeat at Hulme: but in the reign of Henry VI. by the marriage of Rawlin or Ralph Greſvenour with Jean daughter of John Eaton of Eaton, Eſq it was transferred to this place While chivalry was the paſſion of the times, few families ſhon in ſo diſtinguiſhed a manner: none ſhewed equal ſpirit in vindicating their right to their honors. Witneſs the famous cauſe between Sir Robert le Greſvenour with Sir Richard le Scrope, plaintiff, about a coat of arms, [...] one land, or; tried before the high conſtable and high marſhal of England, in the reign [...] Richard II. and laſted three years. Kings, princes of the blood and moſt of the [...] bore witneſs in this important affair. The ſentence was conciliating, that both parties ſhould bear the ſame arms; but the G [...]OSV [...]OURS, a [...] une lendure d [...] [...] to the king. The judgment: [203] confirmed: the choice is left to the defendant, either to uſe the bordure, or to bear the arms of their relations, the antient earls of Cheſter, azure a gerb d'or. He rejected the mortifying diſtinction, and choſe the gerb; which is the family coat to this day.

CROSS the the Dee at Eaton-boat, OLDFORD. leaving on the right Oldford bridge; a neat ſtructure, forming another communication between the two parts of the hundred of Broxton; which, at the time of the Conqueſt, bore the name of Dudeſtan hundred.

AFTER riding along a dirty flat country,FARN. reach Farn or Farndon; a ſmall town on the Dee, called in Doomſday book Ferenton. The church was burnt by the parlement army in 1645, during the ſiege of Holt caſtle; and re-built after the ceſſation of the war. In one window, over the pew of the reſpectable family of Barnſton, is ſome very beautiful painted glaſs, of a commander in his tent, with a truncheon in his hand, ſurrounded with the military inſtruments in uſe during the reign of Charles I. Around theſe are ſixteen elegant figures of different ranks of ſoldiery, as low as the drummer, with their reſpective badges. Over the heads of the officers are coats of arms: over that of the commander are thoſe of Gamul; and ſeem intended to preſerve the memory of Sir Francis Gamul baronet, the active mayor of Cheſter during the civil wars. Over the heads of three others are the arms of the Groſvenours, the Mainwarings, and the Barndiſtons; three loyaliſts, who ſerved in the ſame cauſe: Roger Groſvenour; Sir William Mainwaring, who was ſlain in defence of Cheſter; and William Barndiſton of Chirton, Eſq who died in 1664.

[figure]

THE poor reliques of the caſtle are ſeated cloſe to the river; and are inſulated by a vaſt foſs cut through a deep bed of ſoft red ſtone;CASTLE. which ſeems originally to have been thus quarried for the building of the caſtle. This fortreſs conſiſted of five baſtions, and the work cut into that form, to ſerve as a baſe to as many towers. An antient ſurvey I met with in the Muſeum, among the Harleian MSS. taken in 1620 by John Norden, when it was entire, will give a true idea of this curious ſtructure. It had been defended in three parts by the great chaſm formed by the quarry; on the fourth by the Dee, into which jutted a great quay, ſtill to be ſeen in very dry ſeaſons; for it has long ſince been covered by the encroachment of the river.

ORIGINALLY this place had been a ſmall out-poſt to Deva. Slopes, and other now almoſt obſolete works, may be ſeen near the caſtle, and on the oppoſite ſide of the water: and coins have been found here, that put the matter out of doubt. I have ſeen ſome of Antoninus, Galienus, Conſtantinus, and Conſtantius. I conjecture that the Roman name had been Caſtra Legionis, and the Welſh, Caſtell Llcon, or the caſtle of the legion; becauſe it was garriſoned by a detachment of the legion ſtationed at Cheſter. The Engliſh borderers might eaſily miſtake Lleon for the plural of Llew, which ſignifies a lion, and ſo call it the caſtle of Lions; as we find it ſtyled when it came into poſſeſſion of earl Warren and his ſucceſſors.

[206]THIS country formed part of Powyſland; POWYSLAND. which, when entire, reached in a ſtraight line from Broxton hills in Cheſhire, ſoutherly to Pengwern Powys, or Shrewſbury, including a large tract in both theſe counties; from thence through the eaſtern limits of Montgomeryſhire, comprehending all that county, part of Radnorſhire and Breeknockſhire; then turning northward, included the [...]wmmwds of Mowddwy, Edeyrnion, and Glyndyfrdwy, Merionyddſhire, and (circuiting part of Denbighſhire) comes along part of the Clwydian hills, to the ſummit of Moel-ſamma, including all Denbighſhire, excepting thoſe parts which at preſent conſtitute the lordſhips of Denbigh and Ruthin; from hence, taking [...] ſouth-eaſterly direction to Broxton hills, aſſerts its right to M [...] dale, Hopedale, and Maeler in Hintſhire. I have before taken notice, that Offa's encroachment was but temporary, and of ſhort duration. I muſt farther obſerve, that in the articles of pacification* between Henry III. and our laſt prince Lle [...]. the limits of the principality experienced but a very ſmall d [...] minution from what it was in Offa's time, when it was agreed, that the Dee ſhould be the boundary from Wirral to Caſtra [...] L [...]num, or Holt; and from thence a direct line to Pengwern Powys.

IT was, perhaps, of much greater extent under the reign of Brochwel Yſgythrog, who was defeated by the Saxons at the battle of Cheſter. After this event, the borders became a ſcene of rapine; the Welſh and the Mercians alternately making the the moſt terrible inroads ino each other's dominions*, [207] till the time of Offa; who paſſing the Severn with a mighty force, expelled the Britons from their fruitful ſeats on the plains, and reduced the kingdom of Powys to the weſtern ſide of the celebrated ditch ſtill known by his name. The princes of Powŷs were then conſtrained to quit their antient reſidence at Pengwern, or Shrewſbury, and remove it to one not leſs fertile, to Mathraval, in the beautiful vale of Meivod. From this period, their kingdom was called indifferently, that of Powys, or of Mathraval. The plains of Shropſhire became a confirmed part of the Mercian kingdom. The trans-ſabrine portion of Glouceſterſhire and Worceſterſhire, and the county of Hereford, ſubmitted to the yoke; but, after ſome time, the tract which forms the country above Croes-oſwallt or Oſweſtry, and the two Maelors, Gymraeg or the preſent Bromſield, and Saeſneg or the preſent Flintſhire Maclor, with many other Cwmmwds, relapſed to its natural maſters. Such was its ſtate till 843, the reign of RODERIC THE GREAT prince of all Wales; who, in his mother's right, poſſeſſed North Wales; in that of his wife, South Wales; and by that of his gran-mother Neſt, ſiſter and heireſs to Congen ap Cadell king of Powys, he added Powyſland to his dominions. He, according to the deſtructive cuſtom of gavel-kind, divided his principality among his children; to Anarawd he gave NORTH WALES; to Cadell, SOUTH WALES; to Mervyn POWYSLAND. Each wore a Talaith or diadem of gold, beſet with preclous ſtones; whence they were ſtyled Y [...] Tywy [...]g Taleithing, or the three crowned princes.

[208]AFTER the death of Mervyn, Cadell uſurped the portion of his brother. His eldeſt ſon, Howel Dda, or the Good, in 940, again united all Wales into one government. He left four ſons, who divided South Wales and Powys between them; while North Wales was aſſumed, in 948, by Jevaf and Jago, ſons to his predeceſſor Edwal Voel. The confuſion that enſued on this occaſion, prevents me from ſaying any thing with certainty, till Bleddyn ap Cynvyn, who ruled Wales at the time of the Conqueſt, re-united the kingdoms of North Wales and Powys. The ſucceſſion to the principality paſſed away from his children; but Powyſland devolved to his ſons; which came at length entire to Meredith, the eldeſt born, after the contentions and ſlaughter uſual after ſuch partitions*.

MEREDITH made the diviſion which finally deſtroyed the power of this once potent kingdom. To his eldeſt ſon Madoc, he gave the part which bore afterwards the name of Powys Vadog: to Gryſſydd, the portion which was called Gwenwynwyn .

I LEAVE to a future diſquiſition, the account of the remaining parts of Powyſland. I ſhall only trace the ſucceſſion of the firſt, which belongs more particularly to my ſubject. POWYS VADOG conſiſted, according to the diviſion of the times, of five Cantreſs or hundred townſhips; and theſe were ſubdivided into fifteen Cwmmwds.

CANTREF Y BARWN,
  • Dinmael *, Denbighſhire.
  • Edeyrnion, Merionethſhire.
  • Glyndyfrdwy, Ibid.
CANTREF Y RHIW,
  • Yale, or Jâl, Denbighſhire.
  • Yſtrad Alun, or Mold, Flintſhire.
  • Hope, Ibid.
CANTREF UWCHNANT,
  • Merffordd, in Flintſhire.
  • Maelor Gymraeg, or Bromfield, Denbighſhire.
  • Maelor Saeſneg, Flintſhire.
CANTREF TREFRED,
  • Croes-vaen, and Trefy Waun, or Chirk, in Denbighſhire.
  • Croes-oſwallt, or Oſweſtry, Shropſhire.
CANTREF RHAIADR,
  • Mochnant-îs-Rhaiadr, Denbighſhire.
  • Kynllaeth, &c. Denbighſhire.
  • Nan-heudwy, Denbighſhire.
  • Whittington, Shropſhire.

Madoc married Suſanna, daughter of Gryffydd ap Conan prince of North Wales, by whom he had two ſons; Gryffydd Maelor, and Owen ap Madoc. To the firſt he gave the two Maelors, Yale, Hopedale, and Nan-heudwy, and Mochnant îs Rhaiadr, &c.: to Owen, the land of Mechain Iſ-coed: and, to his natural ſon Owen Brogyntyn, a young man of great merit, Edeyrnion and Dinmael . Gryffydd married Angharad, the daughter of Owen [210] Gwynedd, and had one ſon named Madoc, in whom the inheritance remained entire.

WE now haſten to the end of the line. Madoc had only one ſon, Gryffydd, commonly called lord of Dinas Brân, becauſe he made that fortreſs his chief reſidence. He unfortunately became enamoured of Emma, an Engliſh lady, daughter of James lord Audley; who, alienating his affections from his country, made him one inſtrument of its ſubjection, and of the deſtruction of his own family. He took part with Henry III. and Edward I. againſt his natural prince. The reſentment of his countrymen was raiſed againſt him; and he was obliged to confine himſelf in his caſtle of Dinas Brân, where probably grief and ſhame put an end to his life. He left four children under age, Madoc, Llewelyn, Gryffydd, and Owen. EDWARD I. gave the guardianſhip of Madoc, the eldeſt (who was to have for his ſhare the lordſhip of Bromfield and Yale, the caſtle of Dinas Brán, and the reverſion of Maelor Saeſneg, after the death of his mother) to John earl Warren; and of Llewelyn (who was to poſſeſs the lordſhips of Chirk and Nan-heudwy) to Roger Mortimer, ſon of lord Mortimer, of Wigmore. Theſe lords ſoon conſpired to free themſelves from their charge, and poſſeſs themſelves of their eſtates: and accordingly cauſed the poor children to be drowned under Holt-bridge. This I diſcovered in a manuſcript, communicated to me by the Reverend Mr. PRICE, keeper of the Bodleian library. Before that, the manner of their deaths was current in the country, under the fable of two young fairies, who had been deſtroyed in that manner, and in the ſame place; but the foundation of the tale was, till very lately, totally loſt.

[211]HAVING now brought the ſucceſſion to the required period, I ſhall only ſay, that Gryffydd, the third ſon, was ſuffered to enjoy his portion of Glyndyfrdwy; from whom ſprung OWEN, the great revenger of the wrongs of his family: and the fourth ſon, Owen, received for his ſhare, Cynllaeth. This afterwards devolved to Gryffydd, father of Glyndwr.

THE barbarity of the two guardians, ſo far from being puniſhed by their maſter, was rewarded. Warren had the grant of Dinas Brân and all Bromfield confirmed to him, dated from Rudland, October 7th, 1281*; Mortimer that of Chirk. The former began immediately to ſecure his ill-gotten poſſeſſions by building Holt Caſtle; but dying, left the finiſhing of it to his ſon William. Before this grant, a family of the name of Holt, held this place; I ſuppoſe under its lord paramount. Theſe eſtates continued in the family till 1347, when, on the death of John earl Warren, they devolved to Edward Fitzalan earl of Arundel, in right of his wife Alice, ſiſter to the former. Warren had been divorced from his wife Joan de Baars, and had obtained from Edward II. a grant of his Welſh eſtates, and others in Surrey and Suſſex, in favor of John and Thomas, ſons of his by Maud de Nereford, to whom he had been contracted before his marriage with Joan. Theſe children, probably, died without iſſue; the eſtates reverting, as he had in ſuch a caſe provided, to his own right heirs.

THEY continued with the Fitzalans during three generations. Richard II. probably ſeized on them after the execution of Richard earl of Arundel; for we find that unhappy prince had lodged in Holt Caſtle, during his Iriſh expedition, jewels to the value of [212] two hundred thouſand marks, and a hundred thouſand marks in coin*; which, with the fortreſs, were delivered to Bolingbroke, previous to the depoſal of Richard. Thomas, the ſon of Richard, was reſtored in blood in the following reign. He died in 1416, without iſſue; and his unſettled eſtates fell to his ſiſsters, Elizabeth, who had married Thomas Mowbray duke of Norfolk, but then wife to Sir Gerard Uſeflect; and Joan, who had married William B [...]auchamp lord of Abergavenny. This occaſioned a further diviſion of theſe eſtates. Joan's ſhare fell again, by a daughter, to Nevil lord Abergavenny; after which, I loſe fight of the ſucceſſion till the reign of Henry VII. when that prince made a grant of them to Sir William Stanley. On his execution, Henry not only reſumed the lordſhip, but ſeized on his vaſt effects; and found in Holt Caſtle, in money and plate, forty thouſand marks, beſides jewels, houſehold goods, and cattle on his ground.

HENRY VIII. beſtowed this lordſhip on his natural ſon Henry Fitzroy duke of Richmond; and had poſſeſſion given him at its capital of Holt, in 1534, by the duke of Norfolk and others. He enjoyed his honor but a ſhort time, dying at the age of ſeventeen, in the year 1536.

IN the following reign, I find it in poſſeſſion of Thomas Seymour lord admiral, and turbulent brother to the protector Somerſet. He made the fortreſs at Holt ſubſervient to his ambitious deſigns; and formed there a great magazine of warlike ſtores§. His deſerved but illegal execution again flung Bromfield into poſſeſſion of the crown.

Figure 1. [...] CASTLE

[213]THE great earl of Leiceſter was in poſſeſſion of Chirk; and, probably, of the whole lordſhip of Bromfield.

IN 1643, Holt Caſtle was in the hands of the crown; but in that year was feized for the uſe of the parlement, by Sir William Brereton and Sir Thomas Middhton *. The royaliſts recovered the poſſeſſion. In February 1645-6, it was cloſely beſieged by major-general Mytton, and vigorouſly defended by the governor, Sir Richard Lloyd of Eccluſham near Wrexham, till the beginning of April, when it was ſurrendered on articles; the governor having permiſſion to go beyond ſea, with three hundred pounds; and his lady, to enjoy his lands, being three hundred pounds a year Immediately after the parlement got poſſeſſion, it was ordered to be demoliſhed.

THE lordſhip is at preſent in the crown, under the direction of the ſteward of Bromfield and Yale; an office in his majeſty's diſpoſal: but a grant of the minerals (the far more valuable part) was made to the Groſvenour family in the reign of Charles I. ſubject to the annual payment of twenty ſhillings. An attempt was made by king William to alienate theſe important domains in favor of the earl of Portland, and his heirs for ever; but on a vigorous repreſentation of the illegality, but particularly on the noble ſpeech of Robert Price Eſq afterwards baron of the exchequer, his majeſty thought fit to withdraw the grant already made out in the treaſury. The whole rents at that time reſulting to the crown, amounted only to a thouſand a year, beſides miſes, reliefs, and other contingent profits. The miſe was, in Wales, a cuſtomary preſent made to [214] the prince on his acceſſion, in old times, in cattle; but after its conqueſt, changed into money. It amounted to about five thouſand pounds. It was payed thrice in the time of James I, firſt, at his coming to the crown; ſecondly, on the creation of his ſon Henry prince of Wales; thirdly, on the creation of Charles.

ON leaving Holt, I returned over the bridge; and, paſſing along a portion of CHESHIRE, in a flat country, with a pleaſing view of the Broxton hills on the left, I reached the ſite of Shocklach caſtle. This, with great part of the antient hundred of Dudeſtan, was held after the Conqueſt by Robert Fitzbugh, from Hugh Lupus. It belonged to the barony of Malpas; but on the diviſion of it, one part came to John de Sutton baron of Dudley, the other to Urien de Sancto Petro. What is remarkable, it was held of queen Elizabeth, as of her manor of Eaſt Greenwich. Nothing, excepting a foſs, marks the place of this fortreſs. On the oppoſite ſide of the road is a vaſt mount, probably of far greater antiquity than the caſtle; and exploratory, commanding a great view around. By the name of Stretton, a neighboring place, I conjecture that a Roman road went this way; but my time did not permit me to ſearch after it.

AT a ſmall diſtance from Shocklach caſtle, I entered Maelor Saeſneg, a hundred of FLINTSHIRE, disjoined from the reſt of the county. At the time of the making of the, Doomſday book, the lands about Worthenbury, Overton, [215] and Bettisfield or the preſent pariſh of Hanmer, belonged to the hundred of Dudeſtan. But long before the forming of the new hundreds, which, according to Sir Peter Leiceſter, did not happen much later than the reign of Edward III. it is certain theſe places reverted to the deſcendants of the princes of Powis. it ſeems as if it acquired the name of Saeſneg, from its having been the jointure of Emma, widow of Gryffydd ap Madoc, who was an Engliſhwoman. It conſiſts of theſe pariſhes; Worthenbury, Bangor, Hanmer, and the chapelry of Overton, on this ſide of the Dee, of Erbiſtock on the other ſide, oppoſite to Overton; and of Hope in the other portion of the county of Flint *. Part only of Erbiſtock is in Flintſhire; the reſt in Denbighſhire. Beſides theſe pariſhes, are ſeveral ſpots that belong to this hundred, inſulated by the laſt county, which form nearly a connection between this and the other part of the hundred. The chain is ſuppoſed to have been once entire; but as many of the links were oſten fields, which (by reaſon of their ſmallneſs) were neglected, and loſt. One of the townſhips of Dutton, in Holt pariſh, is known to have belonged to this hundred; as that of Abenbury Vechan, in that of Wrexham, does at preſent. Oſley and Mereford, the laſt in the pariſh of Gresford, were, by the 33d of Henry VIII. added to Flintſhire, and aſſiſt to continue the chain towards Hope, the diſtant portion of this hundred. Theſe were but recently made parts of Flintſhire, in compariſon of the reſt of Maelor Saeſneg; which was declared to conſtitute part of the county by Edward I. in the Statutum Walliae.

[216]THE lordſhip or ſuperiority of the hundred was granted (I believe) by Henry IV. to Sir John Stanley knight, and continued in his family till the 41ſt of Elizabeth; when William earl of Derby deviſed it to Sir Randle Brerelon; and it has ſince devolved to Sir Walden Hanmer baronet, and Philip Lloyd Fletcher eſquire.

THIS part of Flintſhire is under the ſame government as the reſt; excepting the obligation of attending the county courts, which is diſpenſed with by reaſon of its diſtance from the towns where they are held. It has alſo a coroner of its own; but eligible by the county at large.

THE limit between this part of the hundred and Cheſhire is Flannen Brook: about a mile beyond is the village and church of Worthenbury; the laſt, a new and neat brick building, dedicated to St. Deiniol; a rectory taken out of Bangor, and made a ſeparate pariſh by an act of the ſecond of William and Mary, in the preſentation of the family of Emral. The name in the Doomſday book is Hurdingberie; before the Conqueſt held by earl Edwin.

I TOOK my quarters at Broughton; BROUCHTON. a venerable wooden houſe, in poſſeſſion of my reſpected kinſman Peter Davies Eſq in right of his lady, eldeſt ſiſter to the late Broughton [...] Eſq. The Whiteballs were originally of Staff [...]raſhire; but ſettled here in 1663, by virtue of a marriage between Rowland Whitehall and Elizabeth daughter of John Brouglton. The Broughtons derived themſelves from the great Weiſh ſtock Tudor Trovor, earl of Hereford, and aſſumed their name from this place, in the reign of Henry VII.

[217]AT the back of this houſe* lies the noted common of Threapwood, from time immemorial a place of refuge for the frail fair, who make here a tranſient abode, clandeſtinely to be freed from the conſequences of illicit love. Numbers of houſes are ſcattered over the common for their reception. This tract, till of late years, had the ill-fortune to be extra-parochial: at firſt, either becauſe it was in the hands of irreligious or careleſs owners, or was ſituated in foreſt or deſert places, it never was united to any pariſh. The inhabitants, therefore, conſidered themſelves as beyond the reach of law, reſiſted all government; and even oppoſed the exciſe laws, till they were forced to ſubmit, but not without bloodſhed on the occaſion. The very name of the place ſpeaks the manners of the dwellers, Threap-wood, derived from the Anglo-Saxon Threapian, to threap (a word ſtill in uſe); ſignifying to perſiſt in a fact or argument, be it right or wrong. It is ſeated between the pariſhes of Malpas, Hanmer, and Worthenbury; but belonged to none, till it was, by the late militia acts, decreed to be in the laſt. Still doubts ariſe about execution of ſeveral laws within this precinct. It is to be hoped, that legiſlature will take an opportunity of rendering the magiſterial power as valid here as in other places; eſpecially when it is to be conſidered, that there are to the amount of two hundred and ſixty-ſeven inhabitants, who want inſtruction in the doctrine of univerſal ſubmiſſion to law.

FROM Broughton I made an excurſion to Hanmer, HANMER. diſtant about five or ſix miles: paſſed over part of Threap-wood; and obſerved [218] in the incloſares; ſome venerable oaks, the remains of the antient foreſt. Croſs Sarn-bridge, over the Wich-brook, which riſes about two miles above, in part of the pariſh of Malpas, but in the county of Flint, near the Wiches; where are brine-ſprings and ſalt-works. Reach a houſe called Willington-croſs. The country, which hitherto had been uncommonly wet and dirty, now changes to a ſandy ſoil, and becomes broken into ſmall riſings. The part about the little town of Hanmer is extremely beautiful; varied with a lake of fifty acres, bounded on all ſides with ſmall cultivated eminences, embelliſhed with woods. The town, church, and the chief ſeat of the family of the Hanmers, a modern brick houſe, adorn one part; and on the oppoſite ſide of the water, on the ſire of the old houſe of Greddington, another ſeat is projected by that eminent lawyer, Lloyd Kenyon, eſquire.

THE church is a very handſome embattled building,CHURCH. of the reign of Henry VII. in whoſe time numbers of churches were re-built alter the long deſolation of civil war. The roof is of wood: that of the Fe [...]s chapel, and of the north aile, are divided in ſmall ſquares, and carved in a moſt elegant ſtyle. In the windows of the former was ſome painted glaſs, with dates, expreſſing the time of its being made, at the coſt of the Hanmers; who [...] the preſentation of the vicarage granted to them by the abby of Heg [...], near Shrewſbury, in 1424.

Figure 2. PLAN OF HAWARDEN CASTLE.

ABOUT two miles farther is Bettisſield; BETTISFIELD. an old brick houſe belonging to the ſame family. I obſerved here a head of the late Sir Thomas Hanmer, by Kneller, in a long wig and cravat; an elegant figure of a lady Hanmer, with a forehead-cloth, in an elegant white undreſs, ſtudying Gerard's herbal; and a ſmall portrait of a lady Warner, a la magdalene, LADY WARNER. with long diſheveled hair, and a ſcull in her hand. She was a daughter of the houſe, and wife to a Sir John Warner; who, not content with quitting the religion of thir parents, determined to quit the kingdom, and embrace the monaſtic life. Their friends applied to the king (Charles II.) to divert them from their reſolution. His majeſty, with his wicked wit, told them, that if Sir John had a mind to make himſelf one of God Almighty's fools, they muſt have, patience. Sir John became a Jeſuit, and aſſumed the name of brother Clare; ſhe a poor Clare, of which order ſhe performed the noviciateſhip with marvellous obedience! I am black, but comely, was the text of a preacher, one day exhorting her (in what is called a cloathing ſermon) to humility; expreſſing, that ſhe muſt make herſelf black (alluding to the habit) in the eyes of the world, to become more fair in the ſight of the LORD. The abbeſs on this ſaid to the poor novice, You alſo, SISTER CLARE, muſt black yourſelf. On which ſhe went inſtantly into the kitchen, where ſhe blacked her face and hands with the ſoot of the chimney; and thus became an inſtructive example to the admiring ſiſters!

[220]BETTISFIELD has for centuries belonged to the Hanmers. Before the battle of, [...], a diviſion of their eſtates was made. Jenkin Hanmer, the brother-in-law to the great Glynd [...]r, divided his eſtates among his four ſons. He gave Hanmer, and his lands at Llwyn Derw or Ockenlolt, obtained with his firſt wife Margaret, daughter of Davydd ap Bleddyn Vychan, to their ſon Gryfſydd. By his ſecond marriage, with Eva daughter to Davydd ap Grono ap Jerwerth of Llai, he had John, Edward, and Richard. To John he gave Halghton (a hous;e in this neighborhood) and Llai; to Edward, lands in Fenns, a place likewiſe not remote; and to Richard, lands in Betisfield. Jenkin ſoon after fell, valiantly. fighting, in the field rear Slrewſtury, againſt the uſurper B [...] breke. John departed from the principles of his father, and embraced the ſide of the houſe of Lancaſter, in the reign of Henry VI. John Mowbray duke of Norfolk, and Grey lord [...], carried fire and ſword through his eſates in 1463, and burns his houſe at Halghton; which induced him, the year following to make his ſubmiſſion to the victorious Edward *.

ALL theſe eſtates, excepting Halghton, are now united, and in poſſeſſion of Sir Walden Hanmer baronet.

ON leaving Broughton, I took the road towards Banger. On the right lies Emral Hall, the ſeat of the Pul [...]ſton; a family ſeteled here in the time of Edward I. but took their name from Puleydon, a townſhip in Shropſhtre. The firſt who poſſeſſed the place was Roger, a favorite officer of the king; who, after the conqueſt of.Wales, appointed him collector of the taxes raiſed towards [221] the ſupport of the war againſt France; but the Welſh, unuſed to theſe levies, ſeized on de Puleſdon and hanged him*. His ſon Richard was appointed, by the ſame prince, ſheriff of Caernarvon, with a ſalary of forty pounds, and all arrears. His ſon, another Richard, held, in the 7th or Edward II. lands in the pariſh of Worthenbury, by certain ſerviccs, & per ammabrogium, or a pecuniary acknowlegement paid by tenants to the king, or vaſſals to their lord, for the liberty of marrying, or not marrying. Thus Gilbert de Maiſuil gave ten marks of ſilver to Henry III. for leave to take a wife; and Cecily, widow of Hugh Povere, that ſhe might marry whom ſhe pleaſed, It is ſtrange that this ſervile cuſtom ſhould be retained ſo long. It is pretended, that the Amobyr among the Welſh, the Lyre-wite among the Semons, and the Marcheta mulierum among the Scots, were fines paid by the vaſſal to the ſuperior, to buy off his right to the firſt night's lodging with the bride of the perſon who held from him: but I believe there never was any European nation (in the periods this cuſtom was pretended to exiſt) ſo barbarous as to admit it. It is true, that the power above cited was introduced into England by the Normans, out of their own country.AMORYR. The Amoryr, or rather Gobr merob, was a Eritiſh cuſtom of great antiquity, paid other for violating the chaſlity of a virgin; or for a marriage of a vaſſal§, and ſignifies the price of a virgin. The Welſh laws, ſo far from encouraging adultery. checked, by ſevere ſines, even unbecoming liberties. The Amolyr was intended as a preservative [222] againſt lewdneſs. If a virgin was deflowered, the ſeducer, or, in his ſtead, her father, paid the fine. If ſhe married, he alſo paid the fine. There is one ſpecies ſo ſingular as to merit mention: if a wife proved unfaithful to her huſband's bed, the poor cuckold was obliged to pay his ſuperior five ſhillings as long as he did cydgyſgu, [...] ſleep with her; but if he forbore cohabiting with her, and ſhe cydgyſgu'd with her gallant, the fine fell on the offending fair.

THE Saxons had their Lyre-wyte or Lecher-wyte, LYRE-WYTE. for the ſame end that the Welſh had their Amobyr. The crime is mentioned often in the Saxon laws*: once, with a cruel penalty denounced againſt the offender; and a ſecond time, with a ſtrong dehortation from the commiſſion. In general, the crime was expiated by money, according to the degree of the perſon injured. The [...] at this time commute, in certain degrees of offence; but oftener puniſh it with burning, and other excruciating deaths.

CONTINUE my journey to Bangor, BANGOR. ſeated on the banks of the Dee; which is here bounded on both ſides by rich meadows. The church has been built at different times; but no part very antient. It is a rectory, dedicated to St. Dinoth abbot of Bancornaburg or Bangor, in the days of St. Auguſtine. It is in the gift of Philip Lloyd Fletcher Eſq. This place is celebrated for being the ſite of the moſt antient Britiſh monaſtery, or rather ſeminary, which contained two thouſand four hundred monks; who, dividing themſelves into ſeven bands, paſſed their time [223] alternately in prayer and labor*; or, as another writer ſays, a hundred (by turns) paſſed one hour in devotion; ſo that the whole twenty-four hours were employed in ſacred duties. This pious community was diſperſed, after the ſlaughter of their brethren at the battle of Cheſter, and their houſe overthrown. William the monk, and librarian of Malmſbury, cotemporary with king Stephen, ſpeaks of the remains in his days; ſaying that no place could ſhew greater remains of half-demoliſhed churches, and multitudes of other ruins that were to be ſeen in his time. Mention is made of two gates of the precincts, that were a mile diſtant, with the Dee running between them; one was called Porth Clais, the other Porth Wgan. The name of the firſt is retained in that of a place called Clai; of the other in a houſe called Hogan. The precincts muſt have been large, as the monks maintained themſelves by the labor of their own hands. The ſimple and unlearned provided meat and cloathing for the learned, and diſtributed to the poor all ſuperfluities. It ſent forth many thouſands of religious; and its ſame would have been immaculate, had it not produced the celebrated Pelagius, about the year 400, the ſame who is uſually ſtigmatized by the name of the arch-heretic. Two of his tenets, perhaps, in theſe days, may give him many proſelytes: ‘That good works were meritorious; and that unbaptized infants ran no hazard of damnation.’

[224]THE monks of this community, in common with all the Britiſh clergy, were ſtrenuous oppoſers of the uſurpation of the church of Rome. Seven biſhops, and a great number of learned men, were deputed from Bangor to meet the famous miſſionary Auguſtine the monk; when he inſiſted on their concurrence with his demands, with ſuch inſolence, that they left him, determined to maintain the original rites of their own church; which remained pure, and independent of all foreign prelates, for many centuries after that period. Auguſtine threatened the Britons with the reſentment cf the Saxons. How far he inſtigated Edi [...]fred in his invaſion does not appear; but, if BEDE may be depended on, the maſſacre of the monks almoſt immediately followed his menaces*.

I COULD diſcover no remains of this once noted place; but was informed, that ſquared ſtones have been often ploughed up in a field called the Stanyards; probably the ſite of ſome of the antient buildings.

THIS place had been alſo the ſite of the ſuppoſed Bo [...]ium or Bovium, a Roman ſtation. Leland ſays, that in his time Roman money was found there. I could find neither coins or inſcriptions, or any thing of higher antiquity than four ſtone coffin-lids, engraven in the annexed plate, and an antient croſs; all dug up in the church-yard. No 1. has on it the arms of the earls Warren: 2. the ſame, quartered with arms unknown to me: 3. is inſcribed Hic jacet ITHEL CADWGAY:

Figure 3. COFFIN LIDS found at BANGOR.

[225]the 4th, inſcribed Hic jacet WILLIAM LE FRENS; probably a perſon of Norman extraction. I find the name in Sir Peter Leiceſter's Cheſhire *: one Hugh de Frenos, who married Alice, daughter of Lacy earl of Lincoln, and widow of Thomas earl of Lancaſter, beheaded 1321. The croſs is far the moſt antient. The ingenious herald, Mr. Wilkinſon, imagines, that the gryphon and the lion (which are both ancient Britiſh arms) looking towards the croſs, may ſignify the early embracing of Chriſtianity by the nations of our iſland.

THE antient Britiſh boats, the vitilia navigia of Pliny; the modern coracles; are much in uſe in theſe parts for the purpoſes of ſalmon-fiſhing. They have now loſt the cauſe of their name, being no longer covered with coria or hides, but with ſtrong pitched canvas. They hold only a ſingle perſon, who uſes a paddle with great dexterity. The Britons had them of large ſize, and even made ſhort voyages in them, according to the accounts we receive from Lucan.

THE bridge is a beautiful light ſtructure, and conſiſts of five arches. A learned ſchoolmaſter, in the following inſcription, has commemorated the time of its reparation.

MVND. 5607. DENB. CC. CONCIT. REPARAT. AN. CHRIST. 1658. SVMP. E COMIT. LIB. M. A. HEGYR. 1036. FLINT. C.

[226]ON croſſing the Dee, EYTON. entered into Denbighſhire again; and, turning ſhort to the left, after two miles riding, viſited Eyton, the ſeat of Kenrick Eyton Eſq. This houſe was head of a numerous race of gentry, that took their name from the place, ſo called from its ſituation. The Dee rolls beneath, and forms a long and ſolemn reach, overſhadowed by hanging woods. At Overton bridge, which lies about a mile beyond Eyton, the channel is contracted, and the ſtream flows pictureſquely between lofty banks, admirably deſcribed by the inimitable pencil of Mr. SAND [...]Y. This bridge conſiſts of two neat arches, and was firſt built of ſtone by the munificence of Gwenhwyvar, daughter of Jerwerth Ddu of Pengwern, near Llangollen; a maiden lady who reſided at Eyton with her ſiſter Margaret, who was married to Madoc ap Evan Eyton *.

OVERTON,OVERTON. or Overton Madoc, the Ovreton of the Doomſday book, is a pleaſant village, ſeated on a high bank, about a mile beyond the bridge, above a rich meadowy flat of a ſemicircular form, varied by the Dee, and bounded in front with fertile and wooded ſlopes; while the lofty and naked mountains ſoar beyond, and cloſe the ſcene.

THIS place was called, at the time of the Conqueſt, Ovretone; had then a Saxon owner; but was granted to Robert Fitzbugh. I find in 1278, or the 7th of Edward I. that it was in poſſeſſion of Robert de Crevecoeur, who obtained for it a weekly market on a Wedneſday . In the 21ſt of the ſame reign, the king directed Reginald de Grey, juſtice of Cheſter, to go perſonally [227] to Overton, and there to aſſign to the burgeſſes, or ſuch as would become inhabitants, competent land, within the demeſnes of Overton caſtle and wood, to build them burgages with*. Such encouragement did this wiſe prince give to population, to ſecure the frontiers of his new conqueſt. In 1331, or the 5th of Edward III. it was granted, with other lands in this Maelor, to Eubule le Strange, baron of Knockyn .

THERE are no reliques of the caſtle; which ſtood in a field ſtill called Caſtlefield, fronting the Dee. Tradition ſays, that it had been the reſidence of Madoc ap Meredydd prince of Powys and lord of Overton; from which the place received the addition of Madoc.

THE church is a handſome building; and the church-yard reckoned among the wonders of Wales, on account of its handſome yew-trees. The place is only a curacy, in the pariſh of Bangor, in the dioceſe of Cheſter.

OVERTON is one of the contributory boroughs which ſend a member for that of Flint; which is done by the inhabitants of Overton-foreign and Knolton, paying ſcot and lot. This right had been ſettled in the years 1728 and 1737; but a doubt ariſing, whether payment of taxes by the landlord was ſufficient, in 1741, it was determined by parlement in the negative. Hanmer, and ſeveral other places, laid in a clame to vote; but it was rejected by the commons in the beginning of this century.

[228]GWERNHAILED,GWERNHAILED. the ſeat of Mr. Fletcher, in this pariſh, muſt not paſs unnoticed. Few places command ſo rich a view; and few have been more judiciouſly improved. It ſtands on the lofty brow that ſkirts the country. Beneath runs the Dee; bounded on the oppoſite ſide by moſt beautiful meadows and varied in the diſtance with numbers of hills; among which thoſe of Caer-gwrle form a moſt noble and conſpicuous maſs.

IN this neighborhood I viſited the fine collection of birds at Bryn y p [...]s, BRYNY PYS. the ſeat of Richard Parry Price Eſq.NEW VULTURE. Among other [...] were a pair of vultures; which I take the liberty of mentioning in this place, as being an undeſcribed ſpecies. They were the ſmallest of the genus, not above half as big again as the kite. Their bill whitiſh, long, and but little hooked; cere bluiſh; orbits naked and fleſh-colored; irides ſtraw-colored; head and neck, contrary to the character of the genus, cloathed with feathers; craw pendulous; head, neck, back, breaſt, belly, and leſſer coverts of the wings, of a pure white; greater coverts, and primaries, black, the laſt tipt with white; the lower part of the tail black; the end white; legs dirty white, roughened with ſcales.

INHABIT Angola. Were very reſtleſs and querulous; and much more active than is uſual with this ſluggiſh race. They are now dead; but their exuviae, ſtuffed ſo as to mimic life, are placed in the matchleſs Muſeum of ASHTON LEVER Eſq which is f [...]r the moſt inſtructive and elegant of any in Europe; and from which the mere admirer will receive equal pleaſure with the profoundeſt connoiſſeur.

[figure]

[229]I MUST not leave this neighborhood without obſerving that the little owl*, that rare Engliſh ſpecies, has been ſhot in ſome adjacent woods. It is very frequent abroad; where they collect in autumn and the ſpring in great flocks, in order to migrate in ſearch of field-mice. Childrey, in his Britannia Baconica mentions two inſtances of armies of ſtrange painted owls, that came in 1580, and in 1648, into Eſſex, and waged war againſt the multiludes of mice in thoſe times deſtroying the country: but whether they were owls of this ſpecies I cannot determine. I am aſſured by Mr. STUART, that this kind viſits Attica in vaſt flocks every ſpring, and breeds there. It is no wonder that the Athenian goddeſs ſhould have this bird as her concomitant, being ſo very common there. It is very frequently expreſſed on the Athenian coins and ſculptures; and I have ſeen it placed on the hand of a ſtatue of hers, in the noble collection belonging to William Weddel Eſq at Newby in Yorkſhire.

WITHIN a ſmall diſtance from Overton, I entered the county of SALOP or SHROPSHIRE, at Trench-lane, once infamous for its depth and badneſs. This county was peopled by the Cornavii; and, till the time of Offa, was divided between the princes of Powys and the Mercian kingdom: but Offa, after his expulſion of the Welſh from their antient ſeat of Pengwern or Shrewſbury, added their part to his dominions. At the Conqueſt, it was poſſeſſed by the brave [230] Edwin, the laſt earl of Mercia. On his death, it was beſtowed by the Conqueror on Roger de Montgomery, a potent Norman, the firſt earl of Arundel and Shrewſbury.

THE country,ELLESMERE. for the greateſt part of the way to Elleſmere, is flat, dirty, and unpleaſing. On the approach to the town, becomes more agreeable; and about it, breaks into moſt beautiful riſings, fertile, and finely wooded; the bottoms are indeed deſtitute of rivers; but frequently filled with little lakes, called here meres, elegantly bordered by the cultivated hills. It is ſingular that none of them are the parents of ſtreams; their encreaſe from rains and ſprings, and their loſs by exhalations, keep ſuch equal pace!

ELLESMERE is a town ſeated on a lake of a hundred and one acres in dimenſions; and whoſe greateſt depth is twenty-ſix yards; well ſtocked with fiſh.

THE environs have two advantages ſuperior to the other lakes. A good town borders on one ſide: the fine park of Ockle, or Ottley, is a great ornament to another. The property of the water is in the duke of Bridgewater.

THE town is of Saxon origin, and takes its name from the water; which was called Aelſmere, or the greateſt mere, being the chief in this part of the county. The place has little to boaſt of except its ſituation. The principal trade is that of malt; the barley of the neighborhood being remarkably good.

THE caſtle ſtood on a vaſt artificial mount on a riſing ground,CASTLE. with three great ditches on the more acceſſible ſide. At preſent not a veſtige is to be ſeen; the top being formed into a bowling-green, that may vie with any in England for the elegance [231] and extent of inland proſpect; of the lake beneath; of the rich country and woods ſurrounding the town. At a diſtance, Cheſter and the Broxton hills; Wrexham and the Caergwrle mountains; Caſtle Dinas Brân, and the Berwyn alps; and ſome of thoſe of Merionethſhire; Llanymynach hill, the Breyddin, Pimhill, Cleehill, and the noted Wrekin.

I CANNOT trace the founder of the caſtle, nor yet the time of its deſtruction. The place was poſſeſſed, as I before ſaid, by Edwin immediately before the Conqueſt; and on that event, by Roger de Montgomery.

IN 1177, it was transferred to a prince of North Wales. Henry II. in that year, aſſembled a council at Oxford, and, among other regulations for the ſecurity of the kingdom, beſtowed on David ap Owen his natural ſiſter Emma, with the lordſhip of Elleſmere as a portion. This the politic monarch did, in hopes of retaining the affections of David, and to prevent a breach with the Welſh; who gave him ſuch great diſturbance, and ſo often baffled his greateſt endeavors to ſubdue them during the reign of Owen Gwynedd father to David. This alliance anſwered his purpoſe; for the Engliſh remained unmoleſted during the life of that prince.

AFTER his deceaſe, Robert Lupus held, by his bailiff, this manor.

AFTER this, it came a ſecond time into the hands of a prince of Wales. King John, by grant dated from Dover, April 16th 1204, beſtowed it, with Joan, his natural child by Agatha daughter of Robert Ferrers earl of Derby, on Llewelyn ap Jorwerth. It is probable that John hoped, by means of his ſon-in-law, to terrify [232] the lord marchers into obedience: but the unfortunate monarch reaped no benefit from the alliance. Joan proved unfaithful to our prince's bed; who hanged William de Breos, author of his diſgrace, and turned his arms againſt the Engliſh. This induced John to diveſt Llewelyn of the government of ſo important a fortreſs as a frontier caſtle; for, by a writ dated from Warwick, in the tenth year of his reign, he orders the governnor, Bartholomew Turol, to deliver it inſtantly to William earl of Saluſbury and Thomas of Endinton. But ſtill left the revenues of the lands to his daughter.

IN the fourth or Henry III. or the year 1219, Roger L'Eſtrange yielded to the king the manors of Colmere and Hampton; but received them again, together with the hundred of Elleſmere and its caſtle; but for life only.

In 1236, or the 21ſt of the ſame monarch, it appears that John L'Eſtrange was governor of the caſtle. Four years after this, Henry determined no longer to leave a place of this conſequence in the hands of the Welſh. Accordingly, we find him obliging David ap Llewelyn to make a formal renunciation of this territory, which he cedes for ever. The treaty was dated from Alnet on the Elwy, on the feaſt of the decollation of St. John the Baptiſt, in 1240.

IN 1252, the 37th of Henry III. the manor and caſtle of Ellſmere were committed to John de Grey, paying an annual fine of ten ſhillings.

IN the 43d year, or 1258, Peter de Montfort was governor of the caſtle. In the 51ſt, the manor, caſtle, and hundred were granted to Hamon L'Eſtrange and his [...], with a proviſion

Figure 4. HALSTON

[233] out of the eſcheat of the manor, caſtle, and hundred, of a hundred pounds a year. This nobleman took a large ſhare in the barons wars; was excommunicated for his inſolence by the archbiſhop of Canterbury; but returning to his allegiance, was employed in places of truſt, which he diſcharged with the utmoſt fidelity. It is ſaid that he purchaſed the manors of Coalmere and Hampton from Peter de Montfort, which he left to his brother Sir Roger L'Eſtrange. Edward I. in the fourth year of his reign, on the ſurrender of the grant of Hamon (which was to him and his heirs) confirmed it anew, on condition he would receive the caſtle and hundred of Elleſmere for life, and the remainder to the king in fee. This Roger, by the king's warrant, granted ſeveral parcels of the manor to different perſons: and about the ſame time, the waſtes and commons were incloſed and converted into freeholds.

In 1320, Edward II. on the inſurrection of the earl of Lancaſter, appointed Oliver de Ingehan governor of the caſtle. Edward III. in 1329, after cauſing the encroachments made on this manor to be reduced, beſtowed the caſtle, and the hamlets of Colmere and Hampton, on Sir Eubule L'Eſtrange, younger ſon of baron L'Eſtrange of Knockin. They continued in his line till 1477, the 17th of Edward IV; when, by the marriage of Joan, daughter of the laſt male heir, with George Stanley, eldeſt ſon to Thomas firſt earl of Derby, they were conveyed to that great houſe, which was poſſeſſed of them till 1549, the 42d of Elizabeth; when William earl of Derby had licence from the queen to alienate them; which he did, to Richard Spencer and Edward Savage; and they, to Sir Thomas Egerton keeper of the great ſeal, and afterwards chancellor of England and baron of Elleſmere. [234] It is now in poſſeſſion of his deſcendant, the duke of Bridgewater, who has vaſt property about the town; but no ſeat, except a very mean one, called Birch.

THE church antiently belonged to the knights of St. John of Jeruſalem. It was granted to them by Llewelyn; and Edward III. confirmed to their prior the donation. The vicarage is in the gift of the duke of Bridgewater. The chapels of Cockſhute, Dudleſton, and Penley, are dependent on it.

IN the church is an alabaſter figure of Sir Francis Kynaſton of Ottley; and another of his lady, much mutilated. He died in 1590. The venerable houſe to which this knight belonged, was one of the moſt antient freeholds now in the pariſh; being found to have been the property of e Kynaſtons in 1308, the 2d of Edward II. It has been diſtinguiſhed by many eminent perſons; particularly another Sir Francis, eſquire of the body to Charles I. famous for his Latin tranſlation of the Loves of Troilus and Creſſida, from the Engliſh of Chaucer.

From Elleſmere I continued my journey towards Oſweſtry. From an eminence called the Perthy, have a moſt extenſive view of the flat part of the county, bounded by the hills of Denbighſhire, Montgomeryſhire, and Shropſhire. Amidſt them appear the vaſt gaps, through which the Severn and the Dee ruſh upon the plains out of their mountanous confinement. This tract is intermixed with woods, fertile land, and moors of great extent. After a ride of two or three miles along the flat, reach HALSTON, the ſeat of the Myttons, HALSTON. my maternal anceſtry; a good houſe, built about the year 1690, with the advantage of wood and [235] water, managed with excellent taſte by my worthy couſin John Mytton Eſq. The houſe is ſituated on an elevated plot of ground, which riſes out of an extenſive flat, great part of which was ſubject to frequent floods; an inconvenience which has ſince been removed by the preſent owner, at the expence of much trouble and money, in draining conſiderable tracts of low ground; whereby the neighborhood is rendered more healthy and pleaſant. This flat, being well dotted with trees, agreeably foreſhortens the proſpect, till it is bounded by the magnificent ſcenery of the ſurrounding hills, which diſtinctly form, in various ſhapes, many pleaſing points of view. A very extenſive wood flanks each ſide of the houſe, which is bounded by a fine piece of water, made by extending the banks of the river Perry, and by conveying a branch of it through the lower parts of the wood, incloſing ſeveral iſlands, whoſe ſhores are ſhaded by very large full-grown oaks; which all together forms one of the moſt pleaſing artificial pieces of water that is to be met with. The reſt of the grounds are watered with the river Perry; a ſtream which uſed to abound with excellent pike, perch, trout, dace, gudgeons, cray-fiſh, and eels, till modern luxury gave an additional ſpur to the dexterity of poachers; a grievance complained of, though encouraged, in this as well as in moſt rivers in the kingdom. The Perry riſes in the hills, in the pariſh of Syllatyn, and paſſes through ſeveral moors to the village of Ryton, and afterwards falls into the Severn a little below Montford bridge.

AT this place was born the famous general Mytton, GENERAL MYTTON. who commanded the parlement forces in Charles I.'s civil wars; by [236] whoſe military proweſs moſt of the caſtles in North Wales were ſubdued; but finding that Cromwell and his party had farther deſigns than the mere defence of liberty (the cauſe in which he engaged) reſigned his command and retired.

HERE is a well-choſen library, and a good collection of pictures: amongſt which are ſome very capital; particularly, Jacob, and his ſon Reuben ſhewing Joſepb's bloody ſhirt, by Guer [...]; a head, by Raphael; St. Peter, by Guido; king David, by Dominichino. *. Mr. William Mytton's curious manuſcripts of the Shropſhire antiquities are preſerved here; a work which he had been many years engaged in with indefatigable attention, but, unfortunately for the public, died before he could complete his deſign. To his labors I owe frequent obligations in this part of the work.

IN Saxon times,ANTIENT OWNERS. the lordſhip of Halſton belonged to Edric. At that time there were on it two Welſhmen and one Frenchman. After the Conqueſt, it became the property of Guarine, ſheriff of Shropſhire, anceſtor to the Fitzalans earls of Arundel, by marriage with a Mellet Peverel, who received this as part of her fortune. Afterwards, it became a commandery belonging to the knights of St. John of Jeruſalem, beſtowed on them by [237] ſome of the Filzalans. In the 26th of Henry VIII. it was valued at 160 l. 14 s. 10 d. a year*.

AT the diſſolution, Henry VIII. empowered, by his letters patent, John Sewſter Eſq to diſpoſe of this manor to Alan Horde, who did homage for it; and afterwards exchanged it for other lands, with Edward Mytton of Habberley; which alienation was confirmed afterwards by queen Elizabeth.

THE chapel is a donative, without any other revenue than what the owner is pleaſed to allow his chaplain; and is of exempt juriſdiction.

THE name imports ſomething of ſanctity, ſignifying the Holy Stone. Probably a croſs or ſtone, the object of ſuperſtition, might once have ſtood here; but that and its legend are quite loſt. That it had been a ſanctuary is evident. In the reign of Richard I. Meyric Llwyd, deſcended from Hêdd Molwynog, one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales, indignant at certain injuries done his country, by the introduction of new laws and new cuſtoms, ſeized ſeveral of the king's officers appointed to ſee them executed, and ſlew ſome, and hung others. He fled the rage of his enemies, and took refuge at this place.

AT a mile's diſtance from Halſton, WHITTINGTON. I reached Whittington; a village of ninety-four families, ſeated in a pariſh of the ſame name. The number of families in the whole amounts to two hundred and ſeventy-five. The population has of late encreaſed pretty much. The addition to the numbers in the pariſh have chiefly been confined to the village, owing to the ſeveral houſes built for [238] the conveniency of laborers, by the family of the Mytton [...] which evinces the duty and utility of rural reſidence in our gentry, by promoting population, and cheriſhing the induſtrious poor.

MR. LLOYD, in his Archaeologia *, imagines this place might have been celebrated under the name of Drév Wen, or the Whe [...]e Town, by Llowarch Hén, a noble bard of the race of the Cumbrian Britons, who flouriſhed in the year 590. Here, ſays he, was ſlain Condolanus, a chieftain of his country, in an attempt to expel a ſet of Iriſh invaders:

Y Drév Wen ym mron y coed:
Yſeu yu y hevras erioed:
Ar wyneb y gwelht y gwaed.
Y Drév Wen yn yd hymyr
Y hevras y glàs vyvyr
Y gwaed y dan draed y gwŷr.

Some part of this is too obſolete to be tranſlated. It expreſſes in general the rage of a battle; and that the graſs under the feet of the warriors was ſtained with blood.

OUR bards alſo make this place the property of Tudor Trevor, a Britiſh nobleman who lived in the year 924, and in right of his mother Rhiengar grandaughter and heireſs of Caradoc-Freichfras, ſlain by the Saxons in the battle of Ruddlan , in 795) earl of Hereford; and in the right of his father Ynyr ap Cadvarch, lord of both Maelors, Chirk, Whittington, and Oſweſtry, Ewias, and Urchenfield.

[239] AFTER the Conqueſt, it was held by Roger earl of Shrewſbury. It is called in the Doomſday book Wititone. It had at that time eight berewicks or corn-farms; twelve bovarii or oxſtalls; and a league of wood. The mill yielded five ſhillings, and the Welſh reſidents there paid twenty ſhillings.

ON the forfeiture of the cruel Robert earl of Shrewſbury, it was beſtowed on William, a ſiſter's ſon of Pain Peverel, lord of Whittington; and by the marriage of his ſecond daughter Mellet, with Guarine de Mets, a noble Lorrainer, it became his property, about the year 1083, The deeds of arms, and feats of chivalry, made their progeny the admiration of the times, and the ſubject of high-flown romance. Guarine, then lord of Abberbury, and ſheriff of the county, hears of the reſolution of Mellet to marry no one but the knight of moſt diſtinguiſhed proweſs. The emulous youths were to aſſemble at Peverel's place, or the caſtle in the Peak, there to approve their worth. Our knight appears among the reſt, with his ſylver ſhelde, and a proude pecok upon his beualme creſte; overthrows his rivals; carries off the fair prize; and receives the lordſhip of Whittington as her dower. His poſterity aſſumed the name of Fitz-warine; continued lords of this place for near four hundred years; and every heir, for nine deſcents, preſerved the Chriſtian name of Fulk.

THIS warlike race, and their warlike neighbors the Welsſh, had perpetual feuds: their ſpirits were too congenial to enjoy peace. Guarine and the prince of Wales inſtantly attacked each other. The ſon of Conan had the advantage*, and carried deſtruction [240] through all the borders. Guarine died in the reign of [...] and left behind him a ſon, the firſt Fulk Fitz-warine, one of the great glories of his race, who ſhone pre-eminent in the [...] line.

LOVE was the firſt inducement, in the days of chivalry, to great actions in youthful breaſts. Fulk becomes enamour [...] with Hawiſe, the daughter of his guardian Joos. At her requeſt he relieves the father from moſt eminent danger; and recent her hand in reward.

To him was entruſted by Henry I. the care of the march [...] about the year 1122; from which he was ſtyled Fulco [...], or the lieutenant. It was not long before he found employ for [...] ſword. The brave Gryffydd ap Conan carried his arms [...] the borders; had a perſonal engagement with our hero; [...] ed a wound in his ſhoulder, and was obliged to ſeek ſafety flight; but the victor did not eſcape unhurt*. In future enterprizes he was leſs fortunate: the Britiſh prince wreſted from him the lordſhip and caſtle of Whittington; which, by a ſuceeding treaty with Henry II. in the ſecond year of his reign Owen Gwynedd thought proper to retain; and Fulk was [...] penſated by a grant of the honor of Alſton in Gwyneddſhire. He died in an advanced age, and was buried at Abberbury.

I MUST not forget, that it is related of this Fulk, that being at the play of cheſs with John, ſecond ſon to Henry II. he received from him a blow with the board, which he returned with ſuch violence, as almoſt to demoliſh the young prince.

[241] THE ſucceeding Fulk did not degenerate from his anceſtors. He rendered himſelf ſo renowned in the wars abroad, that a French romance was compoſed on the actions of himſelf and progenitors; and tranſlated into Engliſh, under the title of the Geſtes of GUARINE and his ſonnes *. It conſiſts, as in the caſe of moſt writings of this nature, of a mixture of ſome truth with much fiction.

To him was reſtored the caſtle of Whittington and its dependencies, after ſatisfaction had been made by king John to Wrenoc and Wennen, the ſons of Meyric, on whom the prince of Wales had beſtowed it in the reign of Henry II. Wrenoc received certain lands in the neighborhood, which he was to hold by the ſervice of being the king's Latimer, or interpreter, in theſe parts, between the Welſh and the Engliſh . Fulk, notwithſtanding this, fell afterwards from his allegiance to John; and was excommunicated by name for his defection from that monarch: but his ſufferings were in the cauſe of liberty; for he was among the glorious band who obtained from John the charter ſo highly prized by every true Briton.

IT appears that he did not neglect, in the following reign, to obtain a confirmation of theſe eſtates, and to ſecure them to all poſterity. He obtained in 1219 from Henry III. a grant of Whittington to him and his heirs; for which he gave the king two hundred and ſixty-two pounds, and two courſers. He alſo procured the liberty of a market here on a Wedneſday, and a

[242] fair on St. Luke's day; for which he preſented his majeſty with a palfrey.FAIRS. The firſt is loſt. There are ſtill conſiderable fairs or ſhews of cattle on the laſt Thurſdays in April, July, and September.

FROM another favor beſtowed on him by the ſame monarch, in the year 1220, it appears, that probably the caſtle of Whittington had been diſmantled by the Welſh; for Henry gives permiſſion to this Fulk to fortify it. The memory of this is ſtill preſerved in a room in the gateway, by the figure of a knight on horſeback coarſely painted on the wall, with the following lines, now almoſt obliterated, placed beneath:

This was Sir Foulk Fitz-warren, late a great and valiant knight,
Who kept the Britons ſtill in awe, and oftimes put to flight.
He of this caſtle owner was, and held it by command
Of Henry, late ſurnamed the third, then king of all this land.
His grandfather, a Lorrainer, by fame was much befriended,
Who Peverley's daur took to wife, from this Foul [...] deſcended.
His antient feats of chivalry in annals are recorded,
Our king of England afterwards him baron made, and lorded.

DUGDALE informs us, that this baron was drowned in a river at the battle of Lewes, fighting in behalf of the king; but Mr. Mytton reaſonably ſuppoſes, that it muſt have been his ſon who appeared in the field that day: for, from the time that this Fulk was appointed lieutenant of the marches by Richard I. to that of the battle, ſeventy-five years had elapſed; ſo it is probable that he was dead, or at leſt unable to act the warrior. His ſon, therefore, muſt have been the perſon who fell in that fatal action; followed by a body of hardy ſoldiers, raiſed in [243] theſe marches, inured to war by their frequent conflicts with the Welſh.

IMMEDIATELY on the defeat, the rebel victor, Montfort earl of Leiceſter, appointed Peter de Montfort, a creature of his own, governor of this caſtle; and ſoon after, making uſe of the captive monarch's power againſt himſelf, obliged him* to reſign to Llewelyn ap Gryffydd prince of Wales, the hundred of Elleſmere, ſeveral of the border caſtles, and among others that of Whittington and its appertenances. This writ was dated from Hereford, June 22d 1265. Henry alſo ceded to him the ſovereignty of Wales, and homage of all the Welſh barons, and the lord of Whittington. Theſe grants were afterwards confirmed to him by Henry, with the homage of the neighboring counties (which were uſually paid to princes anceſtors) in conſideration of 30,000 marks paid by Llewelyn.

IN 1281, Fulk attended Edward I. in his expedition againſt the Welſh; and was rewarded by the grant of free-warren on his lands in this manor.

IN 1300, he had a feud with his potent neighbor Richard earl of Arundel; but it was prevented by the interference of the king.

HE died in the reign of Edward II. His ſon was at that time in France, in his majeſty's ſervice; whoſe lady, Alionora, had livery of the manor till her huſband could return to do homage.

IN 1329, or the 3d of Edward III. the new earl was accuſed by Edmund earl of Kent, uncle to the king, of raiſing ſeditious [244] reports, that Edward II. was ſtill alive; and endeavouring to excite a rebellion. For this offence his caſtle of Whittington was ſeized; but, by the interceſſion of his peers, reſtored to him the following year.

IN the inſurrection of Owen Glyndwr, the vaſſals favored his cauſe: but their lord obtained a pardon for them from Henry IV.

IN 1420, the 8th of Henry V. this illuſtrious race became extinct in the male line; the laſt Fulk dying in his non-age, leaving Elizabeth, his only ſiſter, heireſs to his eſtates. She married Richard Haukford Eſq who dying in 1430, the 9th of Henry VI. left an only daughter Thomaſine. She married Sir William Bourchier, created, on that account, lord Fitz-warine. A deſcendant of his, John earl of Bath, exchanged this manor with Henry VIII. for other lands. Edward VI. granted it to Henry Grey duke of Suffolk: and Mary, on his attainder, beſtowed it on Henry laſt earl of Arundel of the name of Fitz-alan. It was by him mortgaged to one William Albany, and other citizens of London. The laſt releaſed their title to Albany, who forecloſed the eſtate. His great grandaughter, and ſole heireſs, married Thomas Lloyd of Aſton, Eſq in this county.

THE caſtle ſtands on a flat: the gateway,CASTLE. and the ruins of two vaſt round towers, with cruciform ſlips by way of windows, ſtill remain; and the bare veſtiges of two others may yet be traced. It had been ſurrounded by a moat, and ſeveral vaſt ditches, which comprehended ſeveral other works. The moat was filled by a rivulet that riſes near Pentre Pant, in the pariſh of Selatyn. On entering this pariſh, it is loſt for near a mile, and emerges in the fields on the back of the caſtle.

[245] IT is probable, that this was a place of defence from the time of its earlieſt poſſeſſors. No place on the borders of unfriendly nations could poſſibly remain unfortified; but the architect of the caſtle whoſe ruins we now contemplate, was certainly the great Fitz-warine, granſon of Guarine, founder of the family. Theſe were among the greateſt of the barons called Lord marchers of Wales; of whoſe origin an ample account will be given in the appendix.

THE ſteward of the manor holds annually a court-leet and court-baron in a room in the caſtle;STEWARD. to which the inhabitants are ſummoned, and fined one penny each for non-attendance. Chief-rents are payed to the lord; and a heriot of the beſt beaſt is clamed at the death of moſt of the freeholders within the lordſhip.

THE church,CHURCH. dedicated to St. John the Baptiſt, is a rectory, valued in the king's books at 25 l. 4 s. It is a ſmall building, ſuppoſed to have been originally deſigned as the chapel to the caſtle, and made out of the refuſe materials of that fortreſs by its founder. According to the tradition of the place, he was buried in the porch, it being an act of devotion, in thoſe days, for all perſons, on their entrance into churches or religious houſes, to pray for the ſouls of the founders and benefactors. Fulk Fitz-warine, ſeventh of the name, who had the greateſt revenue of any of the family, by will, dated the 15th of Richard II. directed that his body ſhould be buried in the chancel. The largeſt part of his eſtates were in other counties; but he gave this place the preference, as the antient ſeat of the family.

[246] IN the year 1630, a commiſſion was iſſued from the council in the marches of Wales, to John Trevor and Richard Lloyd, gentlemen, to make a terrier of the glebe-land, and to return an inventory of the furniture belonging to it; among which were found three pair of armour, furniſhed with two pikes and two head-pieces. Theſe ſeem to have been deſigned for the uſe of the rector, for the defence of the caſtle, in caſe of any ſudden inroad of the Welſh.

AFTER leaving the village, in the road towards Oſweſtry, I obſerved on the right Tre-newydd, a ſeat of Watkin Williams Eſq in right of his mother, heireſs of the place. Her granfather, Edward Lloyd Eſq who died in 1715, was eminent for his learning, and had prepared materials for the hiſtory of this his native country. Continue my journey to OSWESTRY, a conſiderable town, about two miles diſtant from Whittingtion; OSWESTRY. a place celebrated in Saxon hiſtory and legendary piety. On this ſpot, on Auguſt 5th 642*, was fought the battle between the Chriſtian Oſwald, king of the Northumbrians, and the Pagan Penda, king of the Mercians. Oſwald was defeated, and loſt his life. The barbarian victor cut the body of the ſlain prince into pieces, and ſtuck them on ſtakes diſperſed over the field, as ſo many trophies; or, according to the antient verſes that relate the legend, his head and hands only were thus expoſed:

[247]
Cujus et abſciſſum caput abſciſſoſque lacertos,
Et tribus affixos palis pendere cruentos
Penda jubet: per quod reliquis exempla relinquat
Terroris manefeſta ſui, Regemque beatum
Eſſe probet miſerum: ſed cauſam fallit utramque,
Ultor enim fratris minime timet Oſwius illum
Immo timere facit. Nee rex miſer, immo beatus
Eſt, qui fonte boni fruitur ſemel, et ſine fine.
'Three croſſes, rais'd at Penda's dire commands,
'Bore Oſwald's royal head and mangled hands:
'To ſtand a ſad example to the reſt,
'And prove him wretched who is ever bleſt.
'Vain policy! for what the victor got
'Prov'd to the vanquiſh'd king the happier lot:
'For now the martyr'd ſaint in glory views
'How Oſwy with ſucceſs the war renews:
'And Penda ſcarcely can ſupport his throne,
'Whilſt Oſwald wears a never-failing crown.'

IT is probable that the Britons beſtowed on the ſpot where the battle was fought, the name of Maes hîr, or the long field, or combat, from the obſtinacy of the conflict. The Saxons, for a conſiderable time, retained the name of the place where the action was fought, with the addition of their own vernacular word feld, or ſelth, a field; as maſerfeld, maſerfelth, and corruptly, maſafeld.

Campus Meſafeld ſanctorum canduit Oſſa *.
The bones of ſaints at Meſafeld were bleach'd.

[248]IN after-days, the name became entirely Saxon; and from the fate of the king was ſtyled Oſwald's tree; now Oſweſtry; and by the Welſh rendered Croes-oſwallt. Before this event, and for a long ſpace beyond, this tract was the property of the Britons; till it was. conquered by Offa, and brought within the verge of his famous ditch.

A PRINCE ſo dear to the church as Oſwald, and ſo attached to the profeſſors of the monaſtic life, received every poſthumo [...] honor that they could beſtow. He was raiſed to the rank of [...] ſaint; and his ſanctity confirmed by numberleſs miracles. [...] reliques (which were removed the year following by Oſw [...] we [...] efficacious in all diſorders incident to man or beaſt. The [...] ſpot on which his pious corpſe had lain, imparted its virtue [...] the mere contact:MIRACLE. the horſe of a traveller, wearied by exc [...] of labor, ſtopt here, lay down, and, rolling about in agony, luckily tumbled on the place where Oſwald fell. No ſooner had he touched the ground, than he ſprung up in full vigor. His maſter, a man of great ſagacity! marked the ſpot; mounted his nag, and ſoon reached his inn. There he found a young woman ill of the palſy. He told the adventure of his horſe; perſuaded her friends to try the ſame remedy; cauſed her to be tranſported there; and ſhe inſtantly found the ſame benefit*.

A CHURCH aroſe on the place of martyrdom,CHURCH. dedicated to the ſaint. A monaſtery was founded, which bore the name of [249] Blan [...]-minſter, Candida eccleſia album monaſterium, and White-minſter. It is very ſingular, that no evidences exiſt, either of the time of the foundation or of the diſſolution. The laſt muſt have happened in Saxon days; for, immediately after the Conqueſt, the church of St. Oſwald was beſtowed on the abby of Shrewſbury. Biſhop Tanner doubts whether there ever was a monaſtery here*: but the authority of Leland puts this much out of the queſtion—that there once ſtood here ſome ſort of religious foundation; for he expreſsly ſays, that the cloiſters, with tombs of the monks, remained in the memory of man. I am inclined to think it to have been collegiate; a ſpecies of eſtabliſhment very frequent in places of martyrdoms or of aſſaſſinations, reverential or expiatory, according to the nature of the event. Something of this kind exiſted here toward the [...] end of the reign of Henry II; for Reinerus biſhop of St. [...] (who had a houſe near the place) alienated all the tythes of [...] and corn of this church and its chapels. Theſe ſerved to maintain twelve prieſts; but Re [...]er beſtowed the revenues on the monks of Shrewſhury; and by the papal authority expelled the antient ſeculars. I muſt remark, that moſt of them had lawful wives; for the Welſh clergy, for a long time, reſiſted the impoſition of the church of Rome in the article of celibacy, as well as ſeveral others.

GIRALDUS CAMBRENSIS attended the archbiſhop of Cantenbury to this place, in order to incite people to take arms for the [250] purpoſed Cruſade. It is ſingular, that he mentions as little of* as he does of [...]. He ſays he went from Cheſter towards Album Monaſterium, where he was met by Gryffydd ap Med [...], and [...], and ſeveral other Welſhmen of diſtinction. Some undertook the romantic war; and, according to cuſtom, were make [...] with the ſign of the croſs by Rei [...]er. When that buſineſs [...] over, they entered the town. of [...], and were moſt magnificently entertained by the young earl of earl of Arunded, after the [...] faſhion; which G [...]raldus ſeems to think ſavored too much of laxury.

SOME writers entertain doubts, whether this place was the Al [...]m Monaſterium viſited by Giraldus; and endeavor to fix it [...] W [...]lu [...]ch; but thoſe may be eaſily removed; when it is certain that it was in Pow [...]ſ [...]and, a pretenſion that the other has [...] clame to: beſides, Oſw [...]ſ [...]try and [...] are mentioned as diſtinct places in the Rot [...] Wa [...]ae. R [...]h, the third earl [...] Ch [...]ter, took the [...] of Blo [...], from being born at the place; and John [...] dates from Alla [...] Monoſterium. In 12 [...]1, a grant of certain lands, which he had made to the [...]ee of St. A [...] .

AT Preſent,OSWALD'S WELL. there is not a relique of any old building excepting of the ruins of a chapel over a remarkably fine [...] that ſtill bears the name of the ſaint: and near the church is [...] ſpot moated round, whoſe houſe is now quite unknown.

[251]I MUST add,CAE-NET. that near the town is a field called Cae-neſ, or Heaven-field, which ſome have imagined to have been the place of his martyrdom. His life and death hath given two places that title; for the Saxon Heafenſeld in Northumberland has the ſame meaning; and received it on account of the victory he obtained there over the Cumbrian prince; Oſwald attributing his ſucceſs ſolely to the intervention of Heaven.

THE preſent church is of no great antiquity;CHURCH. is ſpacious, and has a handſome plain tower. We learn from a monument in memory of Mr. Hugh Y [...], that the old church was demoliſhed in 1616. I ſuppoſe that the preſent immediately roſe on the ruins. It ſtands quite out of the town, in a ſuburb without the New-gate; is a vicarage, under the patronage of the earl of Powys, who is alſo lord of this extenſive manor. Part of this pariſh ſtill uſe the Welſh language; for which reaſon, divine ſervice is in a certain proportion read by the miniſter.

THE town was fortified with a wall and four gates.WALLS AND GATES That called the Black-gate is demoliſhed; the New-gate, the Willow-gate, and the Beatrice-gate, ſtill remain. The laſt is a handſome building, with a guard-room on both ſides; and over it the arms of the [...]-ala [...]s, a lion rampant. It probably was built by Thomas earl of Arundel, in the beginning of the reign of Henry IV. who beſtowed the name on it in honor of his wife Beatrix, natural daughter to the king of Portugal.

OVER the New-gate is the figure of a horſe in full ſpeed, with an oaken bough in his mouth. There is a conjecture, but I will not pretend to ſay how well warranted, that it alluded to the g [...]ous breed of horſes which Po [...]yſland of which this was part [252] was [...] for, [...]ived from fome tine Spaniſh ſtallions, intro [...] by [...]word B [...]ſme earl of [...]ewſ [...]ury.

[...] were beg [...]n in the year 1277, or the ſixth or Edward I. who granted a [...]rage or [...]o [...]l on the inhabitants of the county, [...] for ſix years; in which time it may be ſuppoſed they [...]. They were about a mile in compaſs, and had [...] on the outſde, capable of being filled with water from the neighboring [...]l [...]ts.

THERE are only a few fragments of the caſtle remaining.CASTLE. It ſtood on an artificial mount, with a great foſs, extending to the Beatrice-gate on one ſide, and on the other to the Willow-gate. Our Welſh hiſtorians attribute the foundation to Mad [...] ap Mer [...] ap B [...]yn prince of Pow [...]s, in 1148*. Leland gives ſome color to this, by ſayins, that in his time there was a tower called [...]; but the L [...]ſh records place it in poſſeſſion of A [...] a noble N [...]an, who received it immediately from [...] the Conqueror, on his acceſſion. This A [...]n was the ſtock of the Fitz-ala [...] earls of A [...]n [...]el; a potent race, that flouriſhed (with fewer checks than uſual with greatneſs) for near five hundred years.

SIR WILLIAM DU [...]LE ſays, that there was a caſtle at [...] at the time of the Conqueſt; which I think pre [...]e. The artificial mount on which it was placed indica [...] to have been earlier than the N [...]rman aer [...]. The Brit [...]ns and the [...] gave their fortreſſes this ſpecies of elevation. The Norm [...]n bulk on the f [...]m and natural ſo [...]l or rock; but often [253] made uſe of theſe mounts, wnich they found to have been the ſite of a Saxon caſtle. I believe this to have been the caſe with that in queſtion. A Fitz-alan repaired or re-built, and added to that which he met with here: a tower alſo (as is not unfrequent) might receive th [...] name of M [...]dor, complimentary either to the ſon of Meredydd, or ſome other great man of the ſame title.

THIS caſtle was the reſidence of the Norm [...]n owners, and had been completely finiſhed. I had its [...] or yard, which comprehended that part or the town ſtill called the Bail [...]y head: its Barbican or outer-gate, where the maimed and blind were commonly relieved; a mount on the outſide of the great ditch was the ſite of this building; and, from the uſe, bears to this day the name of Cripple-gate. Laſtly, it had its chapel, placed at a little diſtance, dedicated to St. Nicholas, and was in the gift of the earls of Arundel.

I WILL not tire the reader with a dry liſt of ſucceſſors to this place, or the guardians of ſuch who were under age. I will only obſerve, that after the execution of Edmund earl of Aru [...]del, on the reign of Edward II. his queen, to ſhew her predilection to her gentle Mortimer, obtained the poſſeſſion of it for that favorite.

THE town was favored with conſiderable priveleges from its [...]als. Its firſt charter, from its brevity called by the Welſh [...] Gw [...]a, or the ſhort charter*, was granted by William earl [...], in the reign of Henry II.SHARTA [...] G [...]T [...]. I muſt obſerve here, that [...] [...]parted to the burgeſſes the ſame priveleges with [...] of [...] [...]ury.

[254]THE ſame William, in a ſcutage made in kins; John's ti [...] was not to do ward at any place but Blanc-minſter, for the knights fees held by him: nor to furniſh more than ten ſoldier [...], horſe, or foot, within the county of Salop; nor more than five out of it.

HIS ſon John took part with the barons againſt king J [...] who in revenge marched to Oſweſtry in 1216*, and reduced the town to aſhes. On the death of that prince, he was reconciled to his ſucceſſor, Henry III.FAIR. and in 1227, obtained for his m [...] nor of Blanc-minſter the grant of a fair, upon the eve, the day, and the day after the feaſt of St. Andrew. He alſo make the bailliffs clerks of the market, with power to impriſon [...] perſons who uſed fraudulent ways in buying or ſelling; [...] which they payed the conſideration of twenty marks. Theſe people frequently abuſed their power: it is therefore no wonder that ſo many of the grievances which the Welſh ſo much complained of to Edward I. ſhould originate from this place.

IN 1233, this unfortunate town experienced a ſecond deſtruction, being again burnt by Llewelyn ap J [...]rwerth prince of Wales . Proviſion was now made againſt future inſults; for, in the next reign, that of Edward I. the town was ſurrounded with walls. This happened when that politic monarch meditated the conq [...] of Wales; therefore thought proper to ſecure this town, [...] of the keys of the country, with proper defence.

IN 1 [...]18, the reign of his unfortunate ſon, Edmund earl of Arundel was commanded to raiſe two hundred foot- [...] [255] diers out of Colne and this neighborhood, to repel the Scots.

IN 1331, Edward III. granted another fair to this town; and in 1346, directed Edmund Fitz-alan to raiſe two hundred of his vaſſals from Clun and Oſweſtry, to attend him in the French wars.

IN 1397, Richard earl of Arundel being attainted and executed, the king, Richard II. ſeized all his lands and manors, and granted them to William le Serope earl of Wiltſhire, one of his favorites.FIRST ROYAL CHARTER. He alſo granted to the town the firſt royal charter, incorporating it by the name of the bailiffs and burgeſſes of OSWESTRY infra Palatinatum CESTRIAE in marchid inter ANGLIAM [...]t WALLIAM. This was alſo founded upon the conſſitution of that of Shrewſbury. They were exempted throughout the kingdom (the liberty of the city of London excepted) de Theolonio, Laſtugie, Paſſagio, Pontagio, Stallagio de L [...]ne, et de Danegeldis, et S [...]y [...]it, et omnibus allis conſuetudinibus et exactionibus.

ITS new lord, the earl of Wiltshire, fell a victim to the popular fury,THOMAS EARL OF ARUNDEL. on the depoſal of his royal maſter; and Thomas the ſon of the attainted earl, reſtored in blood. He proved a great benefactor to the corporation: he gave it a releaſe, in 1406, from a hundred pounds that they were indebted to him, in conſideration of the diſtreſſes the town ſuffered during the inſurrection of Glyndwr. He alſo obtained a pardon from the king for his vaſſals in Chirk, [...]r [...]field, and this manor, for the ſhare they took in that commotion.

IN the ſame year with the releaſe, he granted a moſt extenſive charter to the town, containing many matters that ſhew [256] the cuſtoms of the times; and merits, on that account, a detail of ſome of the particulars. To began with a moſt eſſential one;HIS CHARTER. ‘Neither the lord or his heirs ſhould confiſcate or ſeize the effects of perſons dying with or without will in the corporation: THAT no burgeſs ſhould be compelled to be the [...]o [...]d's receiver-general; but only collector of the iſſues ariſing within the borough: THAT the burgeſſes ſhould be diſcharged from all fees demanded by the conſtable of the caſtle, or any [...] his menial ſervants, for any felonies or treſpaſſes committed out of the ſame liberties, when brought to the priſon of the caſtle; ſaving, that the conſtable might receive one penny a [...] his own election, from every manſion-houſe in the town; and a farthing of every cottage on the feaſt of St. Stephen annually THAT the burgeſſes ſhould be freed for the future from [...] exciſe of ale brewed and ſold in the town, which had been hitherto payable, at the rate of ſeven pence for every Br [...] cervi [...] expoſed to ſale: THAT they were to be freed from the duty of Amobr or Lyrewite *: THAT whoever lived in the houſe of a burgeſs, and happened to die there, the burgeſs was to have a herlot after his deceaſe; in the ſame manner as the [...], or freeholders reſiding on the lands of the lord in the hundred of Oſweſtry: THAT no Shrewsbury ale ſhould be ſold in the town without licenſe, while any ale brewed in the town was to be had, under the penalty of ſix ſhillings and eight pence: THAT none of the inhabitants of the lord [...]hips of Oſweſtry, Mel [...]erl [...]y, Kinardſ [...]ey, Egerley, Ruyton and [257] the eleven towns*, ſhould drive or carry any cattle, corn, or victuals, or other wares, to any foreign fair or market, before the ſame had been firſt expoſed to ſale in the town of Oſweſtry, under the penalty of ſix ſhillings and eight pence: THAT none of the lord's tenants ſhould be compelled to pay the redditus advocarii for the ſecurity of the cas;tle, &c. &c.

UNTIL the time of the above-mentioned charter,GUARD AT THE GATES. the lord's Welſh tenants of the hundred of Oſweſtry were accuſtomed by their tenure to keep watch and ward for three days and three nights at the four gates of the town, during the fairs of St. Andrew and St. Oſwald, with a certain number of men called Kaies [...] but theſe treacherouſly, with others, ravaged and plundered the place. On this the tenants were compelled to pay a ſum of money as wages to a ſufficient number of Engliſhmen, as the burgeſſes ſhould think convenient, for the cuſtody of the four gates; and the Welſhmen were for ever to be diſcharged from that duty.

THE vaſſals of the earls of Arundel in theſe parts were of a mixed nature; either deſcendants of the Norman followers of their anceſtor Alan, or of the native Welſh, who were moſt numerous, and bore an hereditary diſlike to their co-tenants of foreign ſtock. The welſh part was called walcheria, and lay in the upper part of the manor.

THIS charter of earl Thomas was confirmed by his ſeveral ſucceſſors, to the time of Henry VIII. Charles II. granted another; [258] in which a mayor, twelve aldermen, fifteen common-council, a high-ſteward, and recorder, compoſe the body corporate.

ABOUT a mile from Oſweſtry, in the pariſh of Sellatyn, lies a fine military poſt, on an inſulated eminence of an oblong form, which has been fortified with much art. The top is an extenſive area, containing fifteen acres, three roods, and eight perches, of fertile ground, ſurrounded with two ramparts and foſſes of great heighths and depths. At a diſtance from theſe, at the foot of the hill, is another deep foſs, which ſurrounds the whole, and ends (as do the two others) at the two entrances; which are placed diagonally oppoſite to each other. On the ſlope of the hill, on both ſides of one entrance, are a range of deep oblong trenches, running tranſverſely between the ſecond ditch and another, which ſeems to be deſigned for their immediate protection; for the firſt extends no farther than theſe trenches; the other, to no great diſtance beyond them.

THIS place is called Old Oſwerſtry,OLD OSWESTRY.H [...]n Ddinas, and antiently Caer Ogyrfan, from Ogyrfan a hero co-exiſtent with Arthur. There is no certainty of the origin of it: ſome aſcribe it to Oſwald or to Penda, and imagine that it was poſſeſſed, before the battle of Maſerfeld, by one of thoſe princes. Others think it to have been the work of the antient Britons; to which opinion I incline. The ſtrength, and the labor in forming it, evince that it was not a ſudden operation, like that of a camp. Its conſtruction, even to the oblong trenches, is Britiſh; for example, that of Bryn y Clawddiau, on the Clwydian hills, which divide Flintſhire from the vale of Clwyd, is a ſimilar work.

[259]A GREAT dike and foſs,WAT'S DIKE. called Wat's, is continued from each ſide of this poſt. This work is little known, notwithſtanding it is equal in depth, though not in extent, to that of Offa. We ſhall here trace the courſe of each. Wat's can only be diſcovered on the ſouthern part to Maeſhury mill, in Oſweſtry pariſh, where it is loſt in a moraſſy ground: from thence it takes a northern direction to Hen-ddinas, and by Pentre'r Clawdd to Gobowen, the ſite of a ſmall fort, in the pariſh of Whittington: then croſſes Prys Henlle common, into the pariſh of St. Martin, near which is a mount called Bryn y Caſtell: croſſes the Ceiriog between Brynkinallt and Pont y Blew forge, and the DEE below Nant y Bela; from whence it paſſes through Wynn-ſtay park, by another Pentre'r Clawdd, or townſhip on the ditch, to Erddig, the ſeat of Philip Yorke Eſq where there was another ſtrong fort on its courſe: from Erddig it goes above Wrexham, near Melin Puleſton, by Dolydd, Maeſgwyn, Rhos-ddu, Croes-oneiras, Mr. Shakerley's Gwerſyllt; croſſes the Alun, and through the townſhip of Llai, to Rhydin, in the county of FLINT; above which is Caer-eſtyn, a Britiſh poſt: from hence it runs by Hope church, along the ſide of Moleſdale, which it quits towards the lower part, and turns to Mynydd Sychdyn, Monachlog near Northop, by Northop mills, Bryn moel, Coed y Llys, Nant y Flint, Cefn y Coed, through the Strand fields, near Holywell, to its termination below the abby of Baſingwerk. I have been thus minute in giving its courſe, becauſe it is ſo often confounded with OFFA'S ditch, which attends the former at unequal diſtances, from five hundred yards to three miles, till the latter is totally loſt.

OFFA'S ditch extended from the river Wye, OFFA'S DIKE. along the counties of Hercford and Radnor, into that of Montgomery, where I ſhall [260] take it up at its entrance into NORTH WALES, at Pwll y Piod, an ale-houſe on the road between Biſhop's-caſtle and Newtown; from thence paſſes northward, near Mellington-hall, near which is an [...]ncampment called Caer-din, by Brompton mill, where there is a mount; Linor park near Montgomery, Forden heath, Nant-cribba, at the foot of an antient fortreſs, Layton-hall, and Buttington church. Here it is loſt for five miles; the channel of the Severn. probably ſerving for that ſpace as a continuation of this famous boundary; which, juſt below the conflux of the Bele and the Severn, appears again, and paſſes by the churches of Llandyſi [...] and Llanymynech, to the edge of the vaſt precipitous limeſtone-rock in the laſt pariſh: from this place it runs by Tref y Clawdd, over the horſe-courſe on Cefn y Bwch, above Oſweſtry, then above Sellatyn; from whence it deſcends to the Ceiriog, and thence to Glyn, where there is a large breach, ſuppoſed to be the place of interment of the Engliſh who fell in the battle of Cregen, hereafter to be mentioned: it then goes by Chirk-caſtle; and, below Cefn y Wern, croſſes the Dee, and the Rhiwabon. road near Plâas Madoc, forms part of the turnpike-road to Wrexham, to Pentre Bychan, where there is a mount; then by Plâs Bower to Adwy'r Clawdd, near Minera; by Brumbo, croſſes Cegidog river, and through a little valley on the ſouth ſide of Bryn Yorkyn mountain to Coed Talwrn and Cae-deon, a farm near Treyddin chapel, in the pariſh of Mold (pointing towards the Clwydian hills); beyond which there can no farther traces be diſcovered.

No reaſon appears why its courſe was not continued from ſea to ſea. It ſeems probable that Offa imagined that the Clwydian hills, and the deep valley that lies on this ſide at their baſe, [261] would ſerve as a continuance of his prohibitory line: he had carried his arms over moſt part of Flintſhire, and vainly imagined, that his labors would reſtrain the Cambrian inroads in one part, and his orders prevent any incurſions beyond theſe natural limits, which he had decreed ſhould be the boundaries of his new conqueſts. The weakneſs of this great work appeared on the death of Offa: the Welſh, with irreſiſtible fury, deſpiſed his toils, and carried their ravages far and wide on the Engliſh marches. Superior force often repelled our countrymen. Sanguinary laws were made by the victorious Harold againſt any that ſhould tranſgreſs the limits preſcribed by Offa. The Welſhman that was found in arms on the Saxon ſide of the ditch, was to loſe his right-hand*.

IT is obſervable, that in all parts the ditch is on the Welſh ſide; and that there are numbers of ſmall artificial mounts, the ſites of ſmall forts, in many places along its courſe. Theſe were garriſoned, and ſeem intended for the ſame purpoſes as the towers in the famous Chineſe wall, to watch the motions of their neighbors, and to repel the hoſtile incurſions.

IT is remarkable, that Wat's dike ſhould have been overlooked or confounded with that of Offa, by all writers, except by Thomas Churchyard the poet, who aſſigns the object of the work: that the ſpace intervening between the two was free ground, where the Britons and Saxons might meet with ſafety for all commercial purpoſes.

[262]From Oſweſtry I took the road to Sellatyn, SELLATYN. a pariſh containing about ſix hundred inhabitants. Its regiſter commences in 1557; was fortunately ſaved from the great wreck of ſuch records by Mr. Wilding, an Oliverian rector in the civil wars. It appears from it, that the ſtate of population in the firſt and the laſt twenty years was as follows:

 Firſt.Laſt.Encreaſe.
Baptiſms,258410152
Weddings,299869
Funerals,18925768

THIS happy diſproportion of encreaſe between births and burials, ſeems to ariſe from the hilly ſituation of the pariſh; which ſlopes down to the moory flats of thoſe of Oſweſtry and Whittington, without partaking the leſt of their nature. The improvements in agriculture contribute much to retain numbers of the inhabitants, by finding them a wholeſome and innocent employ: the want of which exiles multitudes, in many places, to the vice and diſeaſe of great cities.

Figure 5. SIR JOHN OWEN KNT.

THE name of the houſe was ſoon altered to one very nearly reſembling the preſent. In 1218, Henry III. in an addreſs to Llewelyn prince of Wales, informs him, that among others, Bleddyn Filius Oeni de PORKINTON* had performed to his majeſty the ſervice he owed.

I MUST now make a very long tranſition from this period to that which produced another diſtinguiſhed perſonage of this family.SIR JOHN OWEN. Here is preſerved the portrait of Sir John Owen knight, of Clenneney in Caernarvonſhire; a gallant officer, and ſtrenuous ſupporter of the cauſe of Charles I. He greatly ſignalized himſelf at the ſiege of Briſtol, when it was taken by prince Rupert, and was deſperately wounded in the attack. Congenial qualities recommended him to his highneſs; who, ſuperſeding the appointment of archbiſhop Williams to the government of Conway caſtle, in 1645, conſtituted Sir John commander in his place. This fortreſs was ſoon given up to general Mytton, by the contrivance of the prelate, and the power of his friends: and the knight retired to his ſeat in the diſtant parts of the county. In 1648, he roſe in arms to make a laſt effort in behalf of his fallen maſter, probably in concert with the royaliſts in Kent and [263] [...] [263] [...] [264] Eſſex. He was ſoon attacked by William Lloyd, ſheriff of the county, whom he defeated, wounded, and made priſoner. He then laid ſiege to Caernarvon; but hearing that certain of the parlement forces, under the colonels Carter and Twiſleton, were on their march to attack him, he haſtened to meet them, and took the ſheriff with him on a litter. He met with his enemies near Llandegai: a furious recontre enſued, in which Sir John had at firſt the advantage; but falling in with their reſerve, fortune declared againſt him: in a perſonal conteſt with a captain Taylor, he was pulled off his horſe, and made priſoner; and his troops, diſheartened by the loſs of their commander, took to flight. The ſheriff died the ſame day. The victory was eſteemed of that conſequence, that captain Taylor, who was the meſſenger of the news to the parlement, received a reward of two hundred pounds out of Sir John's eſtate*.

SIR JOHN was conveyed to Windſor caſtle, where he found four noblemen under confinement for the ſame cauſe. On the 10th of November, a vote paſt for his baniſhment, and that of the lords Goring, Loughborough, Capel, the earl of Holland, and major-general Langhern ; but after the execution of their royal maſter, ſanguinary meaſures took place. The duke of Hamilton, the earl of Holland, and the lords Goring and Capel, were put upon their trials. Sir John ſhewed a ſpirit worthy of his country. He told his judges, that ‘he was a plain gentleman of Wales, who had been always taught to obey the king; that he had ſerved him honeſtly during the war; and, finding many honeſt [265] men endeavored to raiſe forces, whereby he might get him out of priſon, he did the like;’ and concluded like a man who did not much care what they reſolved concerning him. In the end he was condemned to loſe his head; for which, with a humorous intrepidity, he made the court a low reverence, and gave his humble thanks. A by-ſtander aſked what he meant: he replied aloud, ‘It was a great honour to a poor gentleman of Wales to loſe his head with ſuch noble lords; for by G—, he was afraid they would have hanged him.’

SIR JOHN, by mere good-fortune, was diſappointed of the honor he was flattered with; being, as his epitaph ſays, Famae plus quam vitae ſollicito. He neither ſolicited for a pardon, nor was any petition offered to parlement in his favor; which was ſtrongly importuned in behalf of his fellow-priſoners. Ireton proved his advocate, and told the houſe, ‘That there was one perſon for whom no one ſpoke a word; and therefore requeſted, that he might be ſaved by the ſole motive and goodneſs of the houſe.’ In conſequence, mercy was extended to him; and, after a few months impriſonment, he was, on his petition, ſet at liberty. He retired again into his country, where he died in 1666; and was interred in the church of Penmorva in Caernarvonſhire, where a ſmall monument preſerves the following epitaph.

[266]M. S. JOHANNIS OWEN de Clenneney in Co. Carnarvon militis, viri in patriam amoris ardentiſſimi:

in regem (beatiſſimum martyrem CAROLUM Ium)
indubitatae fidelitatis clari;
qui ad ſacroſanctam majeſtatem a perduellionum
rabie eripiendam, ſumma pericula, lubentiſsè obivit,
Hoſtium copias non ſemel fudit, ac fregit;
religionem vindicavit:
Donec, infelici ſorte in perditiſſimorum hominum manus,
Regali jam ſanguine imbutas,
inciderit Dux praeſtantiſſimus:
Unde ſupplex ſeſe obſeſſum redimerat
niſi quod Heroi conſummatiſſimo
Famae plus, quam vitae ſollicito, tale [...] diſplicuit.
collo igitur imperterrite oblato,
ſecuris aciem retudit divina vis;
volucriſque fati tardavit alas, donec ſenex laetiſſimus
CAROLUM 2dum et ſibi et ſuis reſtitutum viderat.

Ao. Doni. 1666. et Aetatis ſuae 66. placidé expiravit.

FROM Porkington, SELLATYN CHURCH. I aſcended to the pariſh-church. The legend of the foundation is, that a noble Briton being engaged in the chace, found in a thicket on this ſpot a white hind; which determined him (after the example of Ethelred king of the Mercians, in the inſtance of St. John's church Cheſter) to dedicate it to ſacred uſes. He accordingly tranſlated to this place the antient church, which, tradition ſays, ſtood before on a ſpot ſtill called Bryn hên Eglwys, or the hill of the old church.

[267]THAT high-church meteor,DOCTOR SACHEVEREL. that party-tool, Doctor Sacheverel, was, in 1709, preſented to this living; not ſo much on account of its value, as to give him a pretence of making a progreſs through a long extent of the kingdom; and of trying the inclinations of the people in the rich and populous counties he was to paſs through. He was met on the confines of this by 5000 horſemen, among which were the firſt fortunes of Shropſhire. He met with reſpect, in every town, little ſhort of adoration. The crowd in Oſweſtry was ſo great, that a good old woman could ſee only a ſmall part of the holy man; yet conſoled herſelf with having a ſight of his ever-bleſſed wig as he rode along.

FROM hence I haſtened towards Chirk caſtle, keeping a lower road between the two dikes. On approaching the village of Chirk, is a very deep valley, conſiſting of fertile meadows, watered by the brook Ceiriog, and finely bounded by lofty wooded banks. On the very verge of that next to Chirk, ſtands an artificial mount; and, I think, the veſtige of another, on the other ſide of the road which goes between them. Theſe were exploratory, and probably deſigned alſo for defence; and might have had on them a ſmall fort for the protection of the paſs. I imagine theſe mounts to have been Saxon, and coeval with the great labor of Offa, which runs at a ſmall diſtance from them.

IN this deep valley,BATTLE OF CROGEN. which winds along the foot of the vaſt Berwyn mountains, was a bloody conflict between part of the forces of Henry II. and the Welſh, in 1165. Henry had determined once more to attempt the ſubjection of Wales, and to revenge the ravages carried through the borders by its gallant prince [268] Owen Gwynedd; for that end, he aſſembled a vaſt army at Oſweſtry. Owen, on the contrary, collected all his chieftains, with their dependants, at Corwen. The king, hearing that his antagoniſt [...] ſo near, reſolved to bring the matter to a ſpeedy deciſion. He marched towards him; and in this valley, finding himſelf intangled in impenetrable woods, and recollecting his illfortune among the foreſts of Eulo, directed his vanguard to make the paſſage clear, by cutting down the trees, in order to ſecure himſelf from ambuſcade. The pikemen, and flower of his army, were poſted to cover the workmen. The ſpirit of the common ſoldiers of the Welſh army grew indignant at this attempt; and, without the knowlege of their officers, fell with unſpeakable fury on theſe troops. The conteſt was violent; numbers of brave men periſhed; in the end, the Welſh retired to Corwen. Henry gained the ſummit of the Berwyn; but was ſo diſtreſſed by dreadful rains, and by the activity and prudence of Owen, who cut him off from all ſupplies, that he was obliged to return ingloriouſly, with great loſs of men and equipage*.

THIS conflict is ſometimes called the battle of Corwen; but with more propriety that of Crogen: for it happened beneath Caſtelh Crogen, the preſent Chirk caſtle; and the place is ſtill called Adwy'r Beddau, or the paſs of the graves of the men who were ſlain here.

THE church of Chirk is dedicated to St. Mary; CHURCH OF CHIRK. and was formerly an impropriation belonging to the abby of Valle Crucis.

[269]Within is a profuſion of marble, cut into human forms, memorial of the later lords of the place, or their ladies.MONUMENTS. The beſt is a buſt of Sir Thomas Middleton, with a peaked beard, long hair; armed: and by him is another of his lady, a Napier of [...]. Sir Thomas was a ſucceſsful and active commander on the ſide of the parlement during the civil wars. Towards the end of his life, he found that he had undeſignedly eſtabliſhed a more intolerable tyranny than that which he had formerly oppoſed. In 1659, he took arms, in conjunction with Sir George Booth, in order to reſtore the antient conſtitution. Sir George was defeated by the vigilant Lambert; and Sir Thomas forced to take refuge in his caſtle, where, after two or three days ſhew of defence, he was conſtrained to ſurrender on ſuch conditions as the conqueror was pleaſed to dictate.

THE other monuments are compoſed of large and very ill-executed figures of lady Middleton, wife to Sir Thomas Middleton baronet, ſon of the former. She was daughter of Sir Thomas Willraham of Woodhey; and died at the early age of twenty-two, in the year 1675.

SIR RICHARD MIDDLETON, and his lady, Frances daughter of Sir Thomas Whitmore of Buildas. He died in 1716; ſhe in 1694. At their feet lies their ſon Sir William, who ſurvived his father only two years, dying at the age of twenty-four.

ON a ſmall mural monument, is an elegant epitaph on Doctor Walter Balcanqual, a Scotch divine of diſtinguiſhed character. In 1617, he was appointed maſter of the Savoy hoſpital, which he ſoon reſigned in favor of the able but deſultory Marc Antonio di Dominis, archbiſhop of Spalato, in reward for his converſion to Proteſtantiſm. In 1618, he was ſent to repreſent his country in [270] the famous ſynod of Dort. He was promoted to the deanery of Rocheſter; and, in 1639, to that of Durham; but by his great loyalty, having rendered himſelf hated by his countrymen, was, in 1645, obliged to take refuge in Chirk caſtle; but, ſinking under the fatigue of the journey, and ſeverity of the weather, died on Chriſtmas-day. The epitaph was compoſed by Dr. Pearſon biſhop of Cheſter, at the requeſt of Sir Thomas Middleton, by whom the monument was erected.

THE caſtle lies about a mile from the village,CASTLE. in the courſe of Offa's dike, on the ſummit of a lofty hill, projecting from the great maſs of the Berwyn mountains. Before the foundation of the preſent caſtle, ſtood another, called Caſtell Crogen; and the territory around bore the name of Tref y Waun, the property of the lords of Dinas Brân. It continued in their poſſeſſion till the death of Gryffydd ap Madoc, a ſtrenuous partizan of Henry III. and Edward I. Edward, on the deceaſe of Gryffydd, rewarded two of his favorites with the guardianſhip of the two eldeſt-ſons of Gryffydd: Madoc, to John earl Warren; and Llewelyn to Roger Mortimer, ſon of Roger baron of Wigmore: who, as before related, quickly diſpatched the unhappy youths, and poſſeſſed themſelves of their fortunes. Earl Warren ſeized on the lordſhips of Bromfield and Yale; Mortimer on thoſe of the preſent Chirk and Nan-heudwy. He became the founder of the caſtle. It continued in his family but a ſhort time, being ſold by his grandſon John, to Richard Fitz-alan earl of Arundel. The Fitz-alans poſſeſſed it for three generations; after which it paſſed to Thomas Mowbray duke of Norfolk, and juſtice of North Wales, Cheſter, and Flint, in right of his wife Elizabeth, elder ſiſter to Thomas earl of Arundel. On

Figure 6. CHIRK CASTLE.

[271] the diſgrace and exile of Mowbray, in 1397, it probably was reſumed by the crown; and granted again to William Beauchamp lord of Abergavenny, who married the other ſiſter; and by the marriage of his grand-daughter, ſole heireſs of Richard Beauchamp earl of Worceſter, with Edward Nevil (afterwards lord Abergavenny) was conveyed into that family, in the reign of Henry VI*.

THE next poſſeſſor which occurs to me, is the unfortunate Sir William Stanley, who, as Leland ſays, 'repayred it welle.' After his ungrateful execution, it became forfeited to his rapacious maſter; and, as I conjecture, was beſtowed, in 1534, along with Holt Caſtle (another of Sir William's caſtles) by Henry VIII. on his natural ſon Henry Fitz-roy duke of Richmond and Somerſet . By his early death, it reverted again to the crown.

IN the following reign, I imagine it to have been granted to Thomas lord Seymour, brother to the protector Somerſet; for I find him in poſſeſſion of Holt , to which it was an appendage.

ELIZABETH granted it, with the ſame lordſhips, to her worthleſs favorite Dudley earl of Leiceſter. On his death, Chirk Caſtle became the property of lord St. John of Bletſo; whoſe ſon, in 1595, ſold it to Sir Thomas Middleton knight, mayor of London in 1614.

THIS exalted pile has much to boaſt of in its vaſt view into ſeventeen counties; a moſt elegant and varied extent! The caſtle is ſquare, and has five rounders uncommonly clumſy and [272] heavy. Lord Clarendon and others ſpeak of the entire demolition of this fortreſs after its reddition to Lambert. Only one ſide, with three towers, were pulled down, which Sir Thomas Middleton lived to re-build in one year.

THE chief apartments are a ſaloon, fifty-ſix feet by twenty-ſeven; and a drawing-room within: a gallery, a hundred feet by twenty-two, filled with portraits. Among them are thoſe of the duke of Ormond, and his ſon lord Oſſory; the moſt virtuous characters, and the greateſt ornaments of the vicious age of Charles II. admired, revered, unimitated. Oſſory died before his father; who bore his loſs with the firmneſs of a Roman, founded on the certain hopes of a Chriſtian. I can ſcarcely ſay whether he paſſed a finer eulogy on his ſon, or ſatyr on the times, by declaring, he would not change his dead ſon for any living one in EUROPE.

LORD keeper Sir Orlando Bridgeman, keeper of the great ſeals, in his robes, and with lank hair. He preſided over two courts of juſtice with the moſt amiable character; and loſt the ſeals for his refuſal, in 1672, to affix them to the king's inſidious declaration of liberty of conſcience.

LADY BRIDGEMAN, ſecond wife to Sir Orlando, and mother to Charlotte wife to Sir Thomas Middleton.

SIR THOMAS MIDDLETON in armour; grey-beard, and long black hair. The ſame gentleman who is mentioned in the account of the tombs.

HIS daughter, counteſs of Warwick, dowager to Edward Rich earl of Warwick, and afterwards wife to Mr. Addiſon, and the reputed cauſe of his intemperance.

[273]THE uſual appertenance to antient caſtles, the dungeon, muſt not be forgotten. The deſcent is by forty-two ſteps; but, according to the laudable uſage of its preſent lord, the captives endure but a ſhort and eaſy confinement; and even that paſſes imperceptibly, amidſt the good cheer and generous liquors beſtowed on them by the kind warder, to whoſe cuſtody they are committed.

RE-PASSING through the caſtle-gate,BARBAROUS CUSTOM. I recollect a barbarous privelege, retained longer in this country than in any other part of Britain, that of exempting from capital puniſhment even the moſt atrocious aſſaſſin, by payment of a certain fine. This was practiſed by the lord marchers of theſe parts in the fifteenth century; and continued in Mowddwy in Merionethſhire till it was aboliſhed in the 27th of Henry VIII *.

THIS cuſtom was derived from the antient Germans, who accepted a fine of cattle as a compenſation for murder; which ſatisfied the relations, and was not detrimental to the public, which could not fail being injured by the extenſion of private revenge .

THE Saxons continued this cuſtom under the name of Were-geld; WERE-GELD. and accordingly ſet a price on every rank, from the king to the peaſant . The head of the king was valued at thirty thouſand thrymſes, or 4,500 l.; half to be paid to his relations, and half to the kingdom for the loſs it had ſuſtained: that of a countryman was eſteemed at two hundred and ſixty-ſix, or 39 l. 18 s.

[274]THE Were-geld of a Welſhman was very low; for, unleſs he had property enough to be taxed for the king's uſe, his life was not reckoned of higher price than ſeventy thrymſes, or ten guineas. The money or fine was diſtributed, as in the time of the antient Germans, among the relations of the deceaſed; and oftentimes part went to the lord of the ſoil, as compenſation for his loſs.

THE Welſh had in like manner their Galanas and Gwerth, GWERTH. of the ſame nature with the former; but our fine was uſually paid in cattle, the wealth of the country.

BUT the Gwerth was not only a compenſation for murder or homicide; but for all ſpecies of injuries. To cuckold the prince was expiated at a very high rate *; the offender was fined in a gold cup and cover, as broad as his majeſty's face, and as thick as a ploughman's nail who had ploughed nine years; and a rod of gold as tall as the king, and as thick as his little finger; a hundred cows for every cantref he ruled over, with a white bull with different colored ears to every hundred cows.

THE recompence to a virgin who had been ſeduced is very ſingular: on complaint made that ſhe was deſerted by her lover, it was ordered by the court, that ſhe was to lay hold of the tail of a bull three years old, introduced through a wicker-door, and ſhaven, and well-greaſed. Two men were to goad the beaſt: if ſhe could by dint of ſtrength retain the bull, ſhe was to have it by way of ſatisfaction; if not, ſhe got nothing but the greaſe that remained in her hands . I fear by this, and other penalties for the [275] ſame offence, that the crime was not held by my countrymen to be of a very deep dye.

WELSH, SAXONS, and NORMANS, had each their pecuniary atonements for leſſer injuries. A Welſhman, for the loſs of his finger, received one cow and twenty pence; of his noſe, ſix oxen and a hundred and twenty pence; and for being pulled by the hair, a penny for every finger, and two-pence for the thumb, the inſtruments of the inſult *. The Saxons had ſimilar fines and the Normans, like perſons of nice honor, provided a penalty of five ſous for a lug by the noſe, and ten pour un coup au derriere .

THE Scotch had alſo ſimilar compenſations for homicides and injuries; which, in their old laws, paſſed under the name of Cro, Galnes, and Kelchyn §: and laſtly, the Iriſh had their Eric, or ſatisfaction for blood |. In fact, it prevaled over all parts of Europe, with variations conformable to the ſeveral complections of the country.

I CANNOT but relate the occaſion of this digreſſion. Two villains, who had committed a moſt horrid murder in the remote of parts Wales, had fled into this neighborhood for protection, about the latter end of the fifteenth century. Two families at that time divided the country with their feuds; the Kyffins and the Trevors: who were ready at any time to receive [276] under their protection, any banditti that were recommended to them by their remote friends, when their villanies rendered it unſafe for them to remain at home. The Trevors at this time gave aſylum to theſe murderers. The friends of the perſon they had ſlain wiſhed for revenge: being at that time in league with the Kyffins, a plot was laid to ſurprize the aſſaſſins. Jevan ap Meredeth, a gentleman of Caernarvonſhire, who was moſt anxious to obtain redreſs for the injury, came over with ſix men, and was directed to keep himſelf concealed, leaſt the Trevors ſhould be alarmed, and fruſtrate his deſign. He accordingly kept within all day, and watched all night: at length the villains fell into his hands. The Trevors inſtantly purſued him; when he was told by the Kyffins, that if he was overtaken, and the offenders reſcued, he would loſe his revenge; for, according to the cuſtom of the country, they would be carried before the gate of Chirk-caſtle, and be inſtantly cleared, on the payment of five pounds. This determined Jevan to order his followers to ſtrike off their heads on the ſpot. One of them executed his order but faintly; when the criminal told him, that if he had his neck under his ſword, he would make it take a better edge *.

I WISH the cauſe had been better, that applauſe might have been given to this contempt of death; but ſuch aſſaſſins as theſe could ſcarcely be animated with the proſpect of immortality; which made their remote anceſtors, inſpired by the Druid ſongs, think it diſgraceful to preſerve a life that was ſo ſoon to return.

[277]THE ſame conſideration influenced the antient Danes; a warrior fell *, laughed, and died. Thus was the end of the Scandinavian hero, Agnerus.

Herculè nemo illo viſus mihi fortior unquam;
Semivigil ſubſedit enim cubitoque reclinis
Ridendo excepit lethum, mortemque cachinno
Sprevit: et Elyſium gaudens ſucceſſit in orbem.
Magna viri virtus, quae riſu calluit uno
Supremam celare necem, ſummumque dolorem
Corporis ac mentis laeto compeſcere vultu!
SAXO GRAMM. p. 36. l. 29.
Ne'er did I yet ſuch fortitude behold!
By the ſtern king of terrors uncontrol'd
The hero fell. Upon his arm reclin'd,
With laughing extaſy his breath reſign'd.
Th' Elyſian fields juſt op'ning to his view,
To Odin's hall with eager haſte he flew:
With joy, with triumph, he reſign'd his breath,
And ſmil'd away the agonies of death.
R. W.

ON leaving the caſtle,CEFN UCHA. I aſcended the front of Cefn Ucha, amidſt the magnificent and flouriſhing plantations that ariſe under the direction of the preſent owner. This lofty hill extends towards Llangollen, and affords a proſpect uncommonly great. The diſtant view is boundleſs. One ſide impends over a moſt beautiful valley, watered by the Dee; diverſified with groves, and bounded towards the end by barren and naked rocks, tier above tier.

[278]DESCEND towards Llangollen, ſeated on the river, environed by lofty mountains. On gaining the bottom, I made a little deviation to the left,PENGWERN. to viſit Pengwern, or Llys Pengwern, a ſeat of Tudor Trevor earl of Hereford about the year 924,TUDOR TREVOR. and of his ſecond ſon Lluddocca, from whom the Mostyns are lineally deſcended. It is ſtill poſſeſſed by Sir Roger, the Pen Cenedl of his name.

LITTLE remains of the old houſe, excepting a narrow, vaulted room, whoſe roof is formed or nine ſtrong ribs of ſtone, covered with narrow flags layed over them like planks. The room above ſeems to have been covered in the ſame manner. The family reſided here for about four hundred years, till its acquiſition of Moſtyn, by the marriage of the heireſs, as before related.

LLANGOLLEN is a ſmall and poor town,LLANGOLLEN. ſeated in a moſt romantic ſpot, near a pretty common watered by the Dee, which, emblematic of its country, runs with great paſſion through the valley. The mountains ſoar to a great height above their wooded baſes; and one, whoſe ſummit is crowned with the antient caſtle Brân, is uncommonly grand.

I KNOW no place in North Wales, where the refined lover of pictureſque ſcenes, the ſentimental, or the romantic, can give a fuller indulgence to his inclination. No place abounds more with various rides or ſolemn walks. From this central ſpot, he may (as I have done) viſit the ſeat of Owen Glyndwr, and the fine vallies of the Dee, to its ſource, beyond the great Llyntegid: or paſs the mountains to the fertile vale of Clwyd; or make the tour of Wrexham; or viſit the places which I have juſt left.

Figure 7. M. Griffith del. CASTLE D
Figure 8. W. Matt [...] [...]ulp. [...]NAS BRAN.

[279]AMONG the walks on the banks of the Dee, the venerable remains of the neighboring abby, and the arduous aſcent of Caſtell Dinas Brân, are ſo engaging, that I believe no traveller of taſte will think a repetition of them tedious.

THE church of Llangollen is dedicated to St. Collen ap Gwynnawg, CHURCH. ap Clydawg, ap Cowrda, ap Caradog Freichfras, ap Llyr Merim, ap Einion Yrth, ap Cunedda Wledig, by Ethni Wyddeles, daughter to Matholwch lord of Cwl in the kingdom of Ireland; which ſaint was buried here; and has left behind him a legend worthy of the Alcoran itſelf.

THE bridge,BRIDGE. which was founded by the firſt John Trevor biſhop of St. Aſaph *, who died in 1357, is one of the Tri Thlws Cymru, or three beauties of Wales: but more remarkable for its ſituation than ſtructure. It conſiſts of five arches; whoſe wideſt does not exceed twenty-eight feet in diameter. The river uſually runs under only one; where it has formed a black chaſm of vaſt depth, into which the water pours with great fury, from a high broken ledge, formed in the ſmooth and ſolid rock, which compoſes the whole bed of the river. The view through the arches, either upwards or downwards, is extremely pictureſque.

NEAR the foot of the bridge, oppoſite to the town,CASTELL DINAS BRAN. begins the aſcent to Caſtell Dinas Brân, whoſe remains nearly cover the ſummit of a vaſt conoid hill, ſteeply ſloped on every ſide. The form is oblong: the materials the coarſe ſtone of the country, with here and there a few free-ſtone moldings. The ſide, which [280] is leſs ſteep, defended by deep trenches, cut through the ſolid rock. This was one of our primitive Welſh caſtles. The founder is unknown. I dare not attribute its origin and name to Brennus king of the Gauls, who beſieged the capitol; and is fabled to have come into theſe parts to fight with his brother Belinus: nor yet do I derive it from Bryn, a hill, nor Bran, a crow; but from the mountain river Brân, that runs down its ſide.

IT had been the chief ſeat of the lords of Jâl or Yale; and probably was founded by one of them. In the reign of Henry III. it was the retreat of Gryffydd ap Madog, who traiterouſly ſiding with the Engliſh againſt his countrymen, was obliged to ſecure himſelf in this aërial faſtneſs.

ON the death of Gryffydd, Edward I. ungratefully beſtowed on John earl Warren, the wardſhip of the eldeſt ſon of his old partizan; as he did that of the ſecond on Roger Mortimer. Both the guardians underſtood the meaning of the favor; and accordingly made away with the poor children, and received full poſſeſſion of their eſtates *, as before related. From the Warrens it paſſed by marriage to the Fitzalans, and followed the ſucceſſion of the lords of Bromfield.

THE time of its ruin is unknown. Leland ſpeaks of it as a demoliſhed place; and adds, that an eagle built annually in the neighboring rocks; that a perſon was wont to be lowered down in a baſket to take the young; and was obliged to have another baſket over his head, to ſave him from the fury of the old birds.

[281]IN 1390,MYFANWY VECHAN. this caſtle was inhabited by a celebrated beauty, deſcended from the houſe of Tudor Trevor, and whoſe father probably held the caſtle under the earls of Arundel. The name of the lady was Myfanwy Vechan; ſhe made a conqueſt of Howel ap Einion Lygliw, a celebrated bard, who compoſed the following ode, addreſſed to her; which an ingenious friend was pleaſed to favor me with in an Engliſh dreſs.

NEUD wyf ddihunwyf, hoen Creirwy hoywdeg, A'm hudodd, &c.

Sorrowing I ſtrike the plaintive ſtring;
Deign, cruel maid, to hear me ſing;
And let my ſong thy pride controul,
Divine inchantreſs of my ſoul!
Sure Creirwy's charms muſt yield to thine,
And Garwy's * ſufferings to mine.
Far from Myfanwy's marble tow'rs,
I paſs my ſolitary hours.
O thou that ſhineſt like the ſky,
Behold thy faithful Howel die!
In golden verſe, in flowery lays,
Sweetly I ſang Myfanwy's praiſe;
Still the diſdainful, haughty fair,
Laughs at my pain, and my deſpair.
[282]What tho' thine eyes, as black as ſloes,
Vie with the arches of thy brows;
Muſt thy deſponding lover die,
Slain by the glances of thine eye?
Penſive, as Tryſtan *, did I ſpeed
To Brán, upon a ſtately ſteed:
Fondly I gaze; but hard's my doom,
Oh fairer than the cherry's bloom!
Thus at a diſtance to behold
Whom my fond arms would fain enfold.
How ſwift, on Alban ſteed, I flew,
Thy dazzling countenance to view!
Though hard the ſteep aſcent to gain,
Thy ſmiles were harder to obtain,
Thy peerleſs beauties to declare
Was ſtill thy zealous lover's care,
O fairer thou, and colder too,
Than new-fall'n ſnow on Aren's brow!
O, lovely flow'r of Trevor's race,
Let not a cruel heart diſgrace
The beauties of that heavenly face!
Thou art my daily thought; each night
Preſents Myfanwy to my ſight;
And death alone can draw the dart
Which love has fixed in my heart.
Ah! canſt thou, with ungentle eye,
Behold thy faithful Howel die?
For thee my verſe ſhall ever run,
Bright rival of the mid-day ſun!
[283]Shou'dſt thou demand thy lover's eyes,
Gladly to thee I'd ſacrifice
My uſeleſs ſight, that only ſhews
The cruel author of its woes,
Refulgent in her golden bower,
As morning in her eaſtern tow'r,
Thy name, the echoing vallies round,
Thy name, a thouſand hills reſound,
Myfanwy Vechan, maid divine!
No name's ſo muſical as thine;
And every bard with rapture hung
On the ſoft muſic of my ſong.
For thee I languiſh, pine, and rave,
White as Dwrdwy's curling wave.
Alas! no words can ſpeak my pain,
While thus I love, but love in vain!
Wiſdom, and Reaſon, what are they,
What all the charms of Poëſy,
Againſt the fury of thy darts,
Thou vanquiſher of human hearts?
When firſt I ſaw thee, princely maid!
In ſcarlet robes of ſtate array'd,
Thy beauties ſet my ſoul on fire,
And every motion fann'd deſire:
The more on thy ſweet form I gaz'd,
The more my frantic paſſion blaz'd.
Not half ſo fine the ſpider's thread,
That glitters on the dewy mead,
As the bright ringlets of thy hair,
Thou beauteous object of my care!
[284]But ah! my ſighs, my tears are vain;
The cruel maid inſults my pain!
And canſt thou, without pity, ſee
The victim of thy cruelty—
Pale with deſpair, and robb'd of ſleep,
Whoſe only buſineſs is to weep?—
Behold thy bard, thy poet, languiſh?
Oh! eaſe thy bard's, thy poet's, anguiſh;
And for Heaven's ſake, ſome pity ſhew,
Ere to the ſhades of night I go!
O, fairer than the flowers adorning
The hawthorn in a ſummer's morning!
While life remains, I ſtill will ſing
Thy praiſe, and make the mountains ring
With fair Myfanwy's tuneful name;
And from misfortune purchaſe fame.
Nor even to die ſhall I repine,
So Howel's name may live with thine,

R. W.

AFTER a ſhort repoſe,RHIWABON. on my deſcent from the caſtle, I made an excurſion to Rhiwabon, a few miles from Llangollen. For ſome time the ride was along the ſides of the Dee, which watered a beautiful narrow vale. The hills at length approximate ſo nearly, as only to leave room for a moſt pictureſque paſſage, ſhaded with trees. Croſs a bridge called the New bridge, and aſcend for ſome ſpace, leaving on the left conſiderable pits both of coal and canal: reach the village of Rhiwabon, which takes its name from the Avon, or little river on which it lies.

[285]THE church is dedicated to St. Mary. CHURCH. It has been lately fitted up in a very neat manner by Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who beſtowed on it an organ, and a ſmall font; the laſt, on occaſion of the chriſtening of his eldeſt ſon in 1772: is of white marble, ſupported by a tripod of diſtinguiſhed elegance.

THE monument to his firſt wife,MONUMENTS. lady Harriet Somerſet, is in fine taſte. The figure of Hope reclines on an urn, and is attended with her uſual emblem of an anchor. A ſerpent with its tail in its mouth, expreſſive of eternity, includes the inſcription on one ſide of the pedeſtal.

As a contraſt to this excellent performance of Mr. Nollikin, is placed againſt the wall a great monument of Henry Wynn Eſq tenth ſon of Sir John Wynn of Gwydir, who died in 1671. His attitude is that of a fanatical preacher; and his dreſs a full-buttoned coat, ſhort ſkirts, and ſquare ſhoes; a moſt unhappy ſubject for the ſculptor. On one ſide kneels Sir John Wynn of Wynn-ſtay, baronet; and on the other, Jane his wife, daughter to Eyton Evans, by whom he acquired the eſtate. He died at the age of ninety-one, in 1718; and left his fortune to the late Sir W. W. Wynn. He is repreſented blind: this accident (in his extreme age) is mentioned in his epitaph as a benefit, ſince his inward perceptions were improved by this bodily defect. It reminds me of two lines of Waller, in which the ſame idea is much better expreſſed:

The ſoul's dark cottage batter'd and decay'd
Lets in new light, thro' chinks which time hath made.

[286]IN the ſame chapel is an antient tomb, of the altar faſhion, with monkiſh pleureurs on the ſides, and angels holding ſhields of now defaced arms. On the top are recumbent two figures; an armed man with a collar of SS. and a lady lying on a cloak: at their feet a lion with a monk ſitting on it, with his head reclined on one hand.

AROUND the edges of the tomb is this inſcription:

Orate pro anima Johannis ap Elis Eyton, armigeri qui obiit viceſſimo octavo die menfis Septembris anno Domini 1526; et pro anima Elizabeth. Calfley uxoris ejus, quae obiit xi. die menfis Junii anno Domini 1524; quorum animabus propicietur Deus. Amen.

THIS gentleman joined Henry VII. before the battle of Boſworth; and for his good ſervices had conſiderable grants of land in theſe parts. He was of the houſe of Eyton before-mentioned. His grandfather was twice married to the ſame lady; who, on ſome pretence of conſanguinity, had been divorced from him after bearing him a ſon of the name of Ellis: but, obtaining a diſpenſation, they were re-united in form. After the ſecond marriage, were born other children. A diviſion of the eſtates was then made: Rhiwabon and Watſtay fell to the ſhare of Ellis; and Eyton to John, the firſt of the ſecond brood *.

ON the other ſide of the altar is a noble monument to the late Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, whoſe virtues are ſtill freſh in the minds of his countrymen. A fall from his horſe, on September 26th 1749, deprived the world of a uſeful citizen. Ryſbrack [287] has preſerved his figure in a graceful attitude. The late Doctor King of St. Mary-hall thus expreſſed the qualities of his mind:

ADSERTORI LIBERTATIS PUBLICAE. H. S. E. WATKIN WILLIAMS WYNN Baronettus.

Qui ab illuſtri Britannorum veterum ſtirpe oriundus, majoribus ſuis ſe digniſſimum ſemper praebuit, et non modo nomine, ſed virtute et fide hominem vere Britannum. Admodum juvenis in ſenatum electus confeſtim cunctis innotuit gravitate et judicio: Poſtquam vero et ipſe de republica coepit diſputare, et libertatis patrocinium ac defenſionem ſuſcipere, incredibilem animi magnitudinem, atque ejus conſtantiam omnes ita ſuſpexerunt, ut, cum ſenatus princeps, tum patriae pater meritò haberetur. Tam rectis ſtudiis et ea ſingulari bonitate fuit praeditus, ut non poſſet fieri, quin maximam ſibi gratiam et venerationem compararet vir innocentiſſimus, idemque prudentiſſimus pater-familias, continentiſſimus maritus, benigniſſimus hoſpes, optimus literarum patronus, et aſſiduus DEI et CHRISTIANAE veritatis cultor. Ad haec quam ſuavis et jucundus fuit in convictu! Quanta fides ejus ſermonibus! Qualis in ore probitas et decor! Quae menſae reverentia! Quae in cultu moderatio! Quae in omni vita modeſtia, elegantia, comitas, liberalitas! Talis tantique viri immaturo interitu quam grave damnum fecit Britannia; quum cuncti qui ejus virtutes cognoverint (cognovit penitùs qui haec moerens ſcripſit) eo erepto, miſerorum omnium perfugium, bonorum omnium delicias, doctorum omnium praeſidium, Walliae ſuae decus et ornamentum, et clariſſimum reipublicae lumen ereptum et extinctum eſſe fateantur!

THE park of Wynn-ſtay reaches to the village of Rhiwabon; and is moſt advantageouſly ſituated.WYNN-STAY. The grounds well-wooded; the views diſtinct and extremely elegant; eſpecially thoſe towards [288] the Berwyn mountains, and the auguſt breach made into them beyond Llangollen by the rapid Dee, through the country of the irregular and wild GLYNDWR.

NANTY BELE,NANTY BELE. or the Dingle of the Martin, lies about a mile from hence, and merits a viſit from every traveller. From a rock at its extremity, is a magnificent view of the Dee, rolling awefully in a deep chaſm fringed with woods; at laſt terminating ſullenly in a black and ſtill pool. Towards the north is a great view of the conic mountain, and the rude fortreſs of Dinas Brân, riſing amidſt a fertile vale, and bounded by the barren Alps.

THE houſe has been built at various times. The moſt antient is a gateway of wood and plaiſter, dated 1616. On a wall within the court, is this excellent diſtich, alluſive to the name of the houſe;—Wynn ſtay, or reſt ſatisfied with the good things Providence has ſo liberally ſhowered on you.

Cui domus eſt victuſque decens, cui patria dulcis
Sunt ſatis haec vitae, caetera cura, labor.

The former name of the place was Wat-ſtay, from its ſituation on the famous dike; but was changed to the preſent by Sir John Wynn, out of reſpect to his own name. It was originally called ſimply Rhiwabon, and had been the reſidence of Madeg ap Gryffydd Maelor, founder of Vale Crucis *.

THE new part was built by the late Sir Watkin; is of itſelf a good houſe; yet was only part of a more extenſive deſign. It is [289] finiſhed in that ſubſtantial yet neat manner becoming the ſeat of an honeſt Engliſh country gentleman; adapted to the reception of his worthy neighbors, who may experience his hoſpitality without dread of ſpoiling the frippery ornaments, becoming only the aſſembly-rooms of a town-houſe, or the villa of a great city. The preſent owner meditates the re-building of the old part; and, as he has already ſhewn ſuch good judgment in a noble room, in which ſimplicity is joined with grandeur, there is little doubt but he will preſerve a ſtyle of local propriety throughout the whole.

THE preſent ſet of pictures belonging to the houſe are portraits of the families of Wynn and Williams. Here is a very fine three-quarters of the old Sir John Wynn of Gwedir, in a high hat, and with a vaſt white beard, and in the dreſs of the times of James I. I reſerve further mention of him till I arrive at his antient ſeat.

HIS ſon, Sir John Wynn knight, is drawn half-length; a young man, with whiſkers and a peaked beard; dark hair; great flat ruff; black veſt; white girdle, ſtuck with points; a white flowered baldric. Sir John died on his travels, at Lucca, and was ſucceeded by his brother Richard. A moſt exquiſite head of Sir Richard, by Vandyck, is preſerved here. He was gentleman of the privy-chamber to Charles I. when prince of Wales, and attended him in the romantic journey he took into Spain, in 1623, to viſit his deſigned bride. Sir Richard drew up an admirable account of his travels, which is printed among other ſcarce tracts, by Mr. Thomas Hearn. On the acceſſion of Charles to the throne, he was appointed treaſurer to the queen; [290] and, dying without iſſue, was ſucceeded by his brother Owen.

A HALF-LENGTH of Henry Wynn Eſq another ſon of the old Sir John, and repreſentative of the county of Merioneth, in the laſt parlement of James I. He is painted in black hair, a great [...]-over, and a letter in his hand. Here is alſo a portrait of [...] brother, a captain of a man of war, in the ſame dreſs: Both of them good performances.

HERE are, beſides, ſeveral more modern portraits; ſuch as of the two late dukes of Beaufort in their robes. A compoſition, with Charles duke of Beaufort leaning on the late Sir Watkin's ſhoulder, looking at the horſe legacy. This figure of Sir Watkin is the ſtrongeſt reſemblance of him of any.

TWO portraits of the late owner of this place, and his firſt lady, by Dahl. His full wig and dreſs gives a very diſadvantageous idea of him. The faſhion is equally the misfortune of the artiſt and his employer.

A THREE-quarters length of Sir John Wynn baronet, with a full wig and cravat. The ſame whoſe monument we have before mentioned.

TWO very fine full-lengths of Charles II. and his queen, cloſe this ſhort liſt.

ON my return to Rhiwabon, I paſſed through the turnpike towards Wrexham. On the road I digreſſed a little to the left, to viſit a great Caer in this pariſh, called the Garthen, GARTHEN. i. e. Caer-ddm, ſeated on the ſummit of a hill commanding a moſt extenſive view a [...]urd, of the fine and fertile country of Maelor Gymraeg, or Bromfield; and part of Maelor Saeſneg, or Engliſh Maelor, [291] moſtly flat and wooded. This Caer contains about four acres of ground, protected in ſome parts by one, in others with two very ſtrong dikes and deep ditches. The inner dike is made of looſe ſtones, with a wall of vaſt thickneſs on the top. Within the area are many veſtiges of buildings, the habitations of the old poſſeſſors. It lies between the Offa's and the Wat's dike. Part of the turnpike-road is formed for a conſiderable way along the top of the firſt, which ſhews its prodigious thickneſs.

I PURSUED the tract of Wat's dike to Erddig, ERDDIG. the elegant ſeat of Philip Yorke Eſq a place where nature has been laviſh of beauties, and improved by the excellent taſte of the worthy owner. Two little vales bound his lands, watered by a pretty ſtream, and bordered with hanging woods. Along one ſide of the bank runs the dike; and at the end, between the two vales, impending over them, are ſmall but ſtrong entrenchments. One ſurrounds a work of a pentagon form; beyond which, at the very verge, is a mount that ſeems to have been a dernier reſort to the garriſon, in caſe they had been beaten out of the former. Theſe compoſe what is called the Roman fort; but there are neither coins or any thing elſe to confirm the conjecture of its having been one. A fragment of wall cemented with mortar is all that remains of this caſtelet.

WREXHAM lies at a ſmall diſtance from this place.WREXHAM. This town is the largeſt in North Wales, and the pariſh the moſt populous. It appears by the antient name to have been of Saxon origin; being called Wrighteſham. I can trace it no farther back than the time of the laſt earl Warren, who had a grant of [292] it * Leland ſpeaks of it as a place where there were ſome merchants and good buckler-makers . The pariſh is at this time noted for a manufactory of inſtruments of war; but altered for thoſe of offence, inſtead of defence. Near the place is a great foundery for cannon, under the direction of Mr. Wilkinſon, who ſupplies many parts of Europe with this ratio ultima regum; and in the late war between Ruſſians and Turks, furniſhed both parties with this ſpecies of logic.

THE church of Wrexham is the glory,CHURCH. not only of the place, but of North Wales; being a magnificent pile, erected in the time of Henry VII. The date on the ſteeple is 1506. The inſide of the church is very ſpacious; and conſiſts of a nave, two ailes, and a chancel. Above the pillars is abundance of groteſque carving, in ridicule of the regular clergy, and the female religious, abbeſſes and nuns; and over the arches of the nave, are many of the arms of the old Britiſh and Saxon princes.TOMBS. The tombs are numerous. The moſt antient is of a knight all armed: at his feet is a dog, and beyond that a dragon, whoſe tail terminates in a ſerpent's head. On his ſhield is a lion rampant. Around is an inſcription; but all I could make out was Hic jacet * * * * * * * * * * ap Howel . This had been dug up, and is now reared againſt the ſteeple.

THAT of Hugh Bellot vicar of Gresford, and afterwards biſhop of Bangor and of Cheſter, is the next. He lies in his robes recumbent, near the altar. It was his requeſt to be interred in the pariſh where he died. His death happened at Berſe, near this [293] town, in 1596. His funeral was celebrated at Cheſter, and his body depoſited here.

ALMOST oppoſite to the prelate is a magnificent monument, in memory of Mrs. Mary Middleton, daughter of Sir Richard Middleton of Chirk caſtle *. She is repreſented riſing out of her tomb in all the fulneſs of youth and beauty. She died a very withered old woman; but I like the thought of the ſculptor, alluſive to the ſublime paſſage in the burial-ſervice: The irumpet ſhall ſound, and the dead ſhall be raiſed incorruptible, and we ſhall be changed. Above is a ſhattered pyramid, and, what might have been well excuſed, the groſs repreſentation of the angelic beings founding the awakening call.

IN a corner of one aile is a ſmall but elegant monument of the Reverend Mr. Thomas Middleton, and his wife Arabella Hacker, by Roubiliac. Their faces are in profile on a medallion, with a curtain lightly hanging on one ſide.

AMONG the epitaphs are ſome to every taſte. That to a worthy uſher, my earlieſt inſtructor, in the ſchool of this town, merits preſervation.

Febr. 28, 1743. obiit

Rev. GULIEL. LEWIS,

Vir cruditus, affabilis et benevolus,

Qui nil turpe vel in ſe admiſit

Vel fovit in aliis.

[294]THAT in the church-yard, on Elibu Yale of Plas Gronow Eſq. expreſſes an uncommon variety of fortune *:

Born in America, in Europe bred,
In Africa travell'd, and in Aſia wed,
Where long he liv'd and thriv'd; at London dead.
Much good, ſome ill, he did; ſo hope all's even,
And that his ſoul thro' mercy's gone to heaven.
You that ſurvive, and read, take care
For this moſt certain exit to prepare:
For only the actions of the juſt,
Smell ſweet and bloſſom in the duſt.

OF the following, the firſt is ſimple; the ſecond, what the Spectator calls light, but nervous; and the third informs you, that the deceaſed had lived, but not that he died.

Here lies a churchwarden,
A choyce flower in that garden,
Joſeph Critchley by name,
Who lived in good fame:
Being gone to his reſt,
Without doubt he is bleſt.

Died 10th of March 1671/ [...].

Here lies interr'd beneath theſe ſtones,
The beard, the fleſh, and eke the bones,
Of Wrexham clerk, old Daniel Jones.

1668.

[295]
Here lies John Shore,
I ſay no more,
Who was alive
In ſixty-five.

October 9th.

ON the outſide of the church is great variety of ludicrous and groſs ſculpture.STEEPLE. The ſteeple is a fine tower, richly ornamented on three ſides with rows of ſaints placed in rich gothic niches. Among them is St. Giles, the patron ſaint of the church, with the hind which miraculouſly nouriſhed him in the deſert. At each corner is a light turret with a winding ſtair-caſe, twenty-four feet high: the whole height of the ſteeple is a hundred and thirty-five feet.

Two caſualties are recorded to have befallen this building. The ſteeple was blown down on St. Catherine's day, 1331; and the church was burnt about the year 1457. In order to rebuild it, an indulgence of forty days, for five years, was granted to every contributor to ſo pious a work.

THE church is a vicarage, formerly an impropriation, belonging to the abbey of Valle Crucis; but on a diſpute between A [...]n the ſecond, biſhop of St. Aſaph, was reſtored to the ſee *. This great cure is aſſiſted by two chapels; Minera, or Mwyn glawdd, the Mine upon the ditch, from that of Offa running by it: this is a rich mineral tract, in the mountanous part of the pariſh. The other chapel is that of Berſe, or Berſham, a recent foundation.

[296]THE free-ſchool is endowed with ten pounds a year, paid by the mayor of Cheſter, being the bequeſt of Valentine Broughton, alderman of that city, for the inſtruction of twelve boys.

THE weſtern part of this pariſh is hilly and mineral.MINES. Part of the mines on the waſte are the property of lord Groſvenour, and ſome belong to the corporation of Cheſter. Brombrough, another townſhip on the heights, produces coal. In this place the inhabitants of Holt had, by the charter granted to them in 1410, by Thomas earl of Arundel, the liberty of digging for turf and coal. The far greater part of the pariſh is either flat, or compoſed of gentle riſings, extremely fertile and pleaſant, inhabited by a numerous gentry, who ſtill preſerve the character left of their predeceſſors, by honeſt Churchyard, the ſimple ſwan of the reign of Elizabeth.

They are the joye and gladneſſe of the poore,
That dayly feede the hungrie at their doore:
In any ſoyle where gentlemen are found,
Some houſe is kept, and bountie doth abound.

FROM Wrexham I made an excurſion to Gresford, and on my road called at Acton, ACTON. the ſeat of my good friend Ellis Yonge Eſq. This place was formerly the property of the Jefferies, a race that, after running uncontaminated from an antient ſtock, had the diſgrace of producing in the laſt century George Jefferies, CHANCELLOR JEFFERIES. chancellor of England; a man of firſt-rate abilities in his profeſſion, but of a heart ſubſervient to the worſt of actions. His portrait is a fine full-length, in the robes of his office, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller *. [297] Charles II. ſat to this great painter; who ſurvived to draw George I. and to receive from him the dignity of baronet. Jefferies was ſixth ſon of John Jefferies, and Margaret daughter to Sir Thomas Ireland of Beauſey, near Warrington. Here is preſerved a good portrait of the old gentleman, in black, ſitting: it was drawn in the 82d year of his age, in 1690. George had the common ſchool education of the country, from which he was removed to that of Weſtminſter. He never had an academic education, but was placed immediately in the inner temple, where he was chiefly ſupported by his grand-mother.

HE was never regularly called to the bar. The accident of the plague in the neighborhood of London firſt introduced him into his profeſſion; for, in 1666, he put on a law-gown, and pleading at the Kingſton aſſizes, where few counſel choſe to attend, he from that time acted without any notice being taken of his obtruſion. About this time, he made clandeſtine addreſſes to the daughter of a wealthy merchant; in which he was aſſiſted by a young lady, the daughter of a clergyman. The affair was diſcovered, and the confidante turned out of doors. Jefferies, with a generoſity unknown to him in his proſperous days, took pity and married her. She proved an excellent wife, and lived to ſee him lord chief juſtice of England. On her death he married the widow of Mr. Jones of Montgomeryſhire, and daughter to Sir Thomas Blodworth.

[298]HIS firſt preferment from the court was that of a Welſh judge. In 1680, he was made chief juſtice of Cheſter. After this, he roſe with great rapidity; and, as is well known, fell as ſuddenly. His conduct, as chancellor, was upright and able; as a politician, unreſtrained by any principle; devoted to the worſt meaſures of an infatuated court. He was extremely given to the bottle; and paid ſo little reſpect to his character, that one day having drank to exceſs with the lord treaſurer and others, they were going to ſtrip, and get upon a ſign-poſt to drink the king's health, had not they been prevented *. He died ſoon after his commitment, either from hard-drinking or a broken heart, and ſo was preſerved from the infamy of public execution.

GRESFORD or Croes-ffordd, the road of the croſs, GRESFORD: lies about two miles further. The church is ſeated on the brow of a lofty eminence, over a beautiful little valley, whoſe end opens into the vaſt expanſe of the vale royal of Cheſhire; and exhibits a view of uncommon elegance.CHURCH. The church is extremely handſome; but leſs ornamented than that of Wrexham, though built in the ſame reign. On the top of the tower are images of the apoſtles. On one ſide, in a niche, is another of Henry VII. The neat reparation of the inſide, is owing to the direction and excellent judgment of the reverend Mr. Newcome, the preſent vicar.

[299]HERE are two antient monuments: one,TOMBS. much hid by a pew, a flat ſtone, with a ſhield and other ſculpture. The arms on the ſhield are three mullets on a bend. Theſe ſhew the deceaſed to have been one of the later poſterity of Ithel ap Ednyfed, whoſe father had the townſhips of Gresford and Allington beſtowed on him for ſervices done to Bleddyn ap Cynvyn, in the wars againſt the Engliſh. Ithel inherited alſo Lleprog Vawr, Lleprog Vechan, and Trefnant in Englefield. Many of his offspring were buried here †.

IN the north aile is a tomb of a warrior armed in mail. On his ſhield is a lion rampant; and round the verge, Hic jacet MADOC AP LLEWELIN AP GRUFF. He was of Eyton, Erliſham, and Rhiwabon. He was buried on St. Mathias's day, 1331.

HERE are,THE TREVORS. beſides, ſome mural monuments of the Trevors of Trevalyn. The firſt is of John Trevor Eſq placed in armour, in a reclining poſture, with an inſcription in Welſh on a tablet, concealing half his body. It ſignifies, that he died in London in June 1589; and that his ſon, Sir Richard, cauſed his bones to be removed to this place.

SIR RICHARD erected his own monument in 1638, in the 80th year of his age, repreſenting himſelf in armour kneeling: and his wife Catherine, daughter of Robert Puleſton Eſq of Emral, by him. The inſcription informs us, that it was chiefly in memory of his lady, that he cauſed this memorial to be erected.* [300]He ſerved many years in the Iriſh wars; was governor of Newry, and the counties of Down and Ardmagh; council of the marches, and vice admiral of North Wales; and lived (as he tells us) to ſee his children's children's children. There is another monument to his lady, who is placed kneeling with her five daughters.

AT their neighboring ſeat of Trevalyn, is a ſingular portrait of Sir Richard, dreſſed in black. Above hang his arms, with the words So then: beneath are ſome medicines, and Now thus: alluſive to his former and preſent ſtate.

A [...] the extremity of the lofty ſlope that impends over the plains, and affords an almoſt boundleſs view to the north and north-eaſt,THE ROFTS. is a peninſulated field, called the Rofts, that formed, in old times, a ſtrong Britiſh poſt. It is defended by three ſtrong dikes and foſſes, cut acroſs the narrow iſthmus that connects it to higher parts of the pariſh. On two ſides it is inacceſſible by reaſon of the ſteepneſs of the declivity; and on the fourth, which fronts Cheſhire, and is of eaſier aſcent, had been protected by two or three other ditches, now almoſt levelled by the plough. In one corner of this poſt is a vaſt exploratory mount. This ſeems to have been an important ſtation; an outguard to our country againſt invaders; which made an artificial elevation quite neceſſary, in order to obſerve the motions of an enemy.

IT lies, I think, in the manor of Merford; which, with that of Horſley, was, by act of parlement, in the reign of Henry VIII. [...]ng into the county of Flint; but whether they extend to the [301] pariſh of Hope in Flintſhire, or are ſurrounded by Denbighſhire, I am uncertain.

FROM hence I returned by the ſame road to my quarters at Llangollen.

IN the morning I took a ride to view the country that lies to the ſouth-weſt. The road lay on the ſame ſide of the river with the town: I kept aſcending a hill cloathed in many parts with birch. From the ſummit was a moſt elegant view; one way, of the antient caſtle on its conic hill, and the mural ranges of the Gliſſeg rocks in various tiers behind. Beneath, on the other ſide,LLANDYSILIO. lies the houſe of Llandyſilio, the ſeat of Thomas Jones Eſq in a pretty vale, watered by the Dee, that winds along the bottom, after paſſing between two rocky promontories, that barely give it a channel.

THE church is dedicated to St. Tyſilio, CHURCH. prince of Powys, ſon of Brochwel Yſgithrog, by Arddun Benaſgell, or Arddun with the winged head, daughter of St. Pabo poſt Prydain, or the pillar of Britain. This pariſh is in the hundred of YALE;YALE. which contains, beſides thoſe of Bryn Eglwys, Llandegla, Llanarmon, and Llanverres.

AFTER a deſcent of no great length, enter MERIONETHSHIRE, into that portion for ever to be diſtinguiſhed in the Welſh annals, on account of the hero it produced, who made ſuch a figure in the beginning of the fifteenth century. This tract [302] was antiently a comot in the kingdom of Mathraval, or Powys; and ſtill retains its former title Glyn-dwrdwy, GLYN-DWRDWY. or the valley of the Dee. It extends about ſeven miles in length; is narrow, fertile in graſs, bounded by lofty hills, often cloathed with trees; and lies in the pariſhes of Llangollen, Llandy [...]ilio, Llanſantffraid, and Corwen.

THIS tract once belonged to the lords of Dinas Brân. After the murder of the two eldeſt ſons of Gryffydd ap Madoc the laſt lord, the earl Warren, who had uſurped the property of the eldeſt, appears to have been ſeized with remorſe for his crime; and, inſtead of removing the other object of his fear, as a Machiavelian politician would have done, procured from Edward I. a grant of this tract to Gryffydd Vychan, third brother to the unhappy youth, dated from Rudland the 12th of February 1282 *.

OWEN was fourth in deſcent from this nobleman.O. GLYNDWR, HIS DESCENT. His father's name was Gryffydd Vychan; his mother's, Elena, of royal blood, and from whom he afterwards clamed the throne of Wales. She was eldeſt daughter of Thomas ap Llewelyn ap Owen, by his wife Elinor Goch, or Elinor the red, daughter and heireſs to Catherine, one of the daughters of Llewelyn laſt prince of Wales, and wife to Philip ap Ivor of Iſcoed. She probably was married before the death of her father, otherwiſe the jealouſy of Edward, about the ſucceſſion to the principality, would have made her ſhare the fate of her ſiſter Gwenllian; who, perforce, took the veil in the convent of Shafteſbury.

[303]WRITERS vary in the account of the day of the birth of Glyndwr. BIRTH. One manuſcript fixes it on the 28th of May 1354: that preſerved by Lewis Owen, places the event five years earlier; for the year 1349, ſays he, was diſtinguiſhed by the firſt appearance of the peſtilence in Wales, and by the birth of Owen Glyndwr.

HEROES are often introduced into the world by ſome ſtrange phoenomenon,OMENS. that preſages their future celebrity, or the happineſs or miſery they were to bring upon their country; but it is probable that their courſe is finiſhed, before ſuperſtition invents the tale, and adopts it to their actions. Holinſhed relates one on this occaſion, correſpondent to a blemiſh we could wiſh to clear the character of our countryman from. His cruelty was foretold at his nativity, by the marvellous accident of his father's horſes being found ſtanding that night in the ſtables up to their bellies in blood. Shakeſpear omits this circumſtance; but, in his ſpirited character of Owen, puts theſe beautiful lines into his mouth, finely deſcriptive of the vain-glory and ſuperſtition of the old Britiſh chieftain.

At my birth
The front of heav'n was full of fiery ſhapes;
The goats ran from the mountains, and the herds
Were ſtrangely clamorous in the frighted fields:
Theſe ſigns have mark'd me extraordinary,
And all the courſes of my life do ſhew,
I am not in the roll of common men.

[304]HIS bard, Jolo Goch, gives him incenſe of a far ſuperior kind: and I fear the poet's ardor to celebrate his patron, carried him to the borders of blaſphemy; for, in his Cowydd y Seren, or Poem of the ſtar, he deſcribes three that appeared to mark three great events; for, to the ſtar which foretold the birth of our SAVIOUR, he adds another which preſaged that of Arthur; and a third which marked the great deeds of Glyndwr, in 1402, the meridian of his glory *.

HE appears to have had a liberal education. His ambition overcame the prejudices of his country againſt the Engliſh; and determined him to ſeek preferment among them. He entered himſelf in the inns of court, and ſtudied there, till he became a barriſter. It is probable, that he quitted his profeſſion; for we find, that he was appointed ſcutiger, or ſquire of the body to Richard II. whoſe fortunes he followed to the laſt; was taken with him in Flint caſtle; and, when the king's houſhold was diſſolved, retired, with full reſentment of his ſovereign's wrongs, to his patrimony in Wales. I judge that he was knighted before the depoſal of his maſter; for I find him among the witneſſes in the celebrated cauſe between Sir Richard le Scrope and Sir Ro [...] le Groſvenour, about a coat of arms, under the title of Sir [...] de Glendore. His brother alſo appears there by the name of Tudor de Glendore. This cauſe laſted three years, and ended in 1389 .

[305]JOLO GOCH,HIS HOUSE. the celebrated poet of this period, reſided here for ſome time. He came on a preſſing invitation from Owen; who, knowing the mighty influence of this order of men over the antient Britons, made his houſe, as Jolo ſays, a ſanctuary for bards. He made them the inſtruments of his future operations, and to prepare the minds of the people againſt the time of his intended inſurrection. From Jolo I borrow the deſcription of the ſeat of the chieftain, when it was in full ſplendor. He compares it, in point of magnificence, to Weſtminſter abby; and informs us, that it had a gate-houſe, and was ſurrounded with a moat.

THAT within were nine halls, each furniſhed with a wardrobe; I imagine, filled with the cloaths of his retainers, according to the cuſtom of thoſe days.

NEAR the houſe, on a verdant bank, was a wooden houſe, ſupported on poſts, and covered with tiles. It contained four apartments, each ſubdivided into two, deſigned to lodge the gueſts.

HERE was a church in form of a croſs, with ſeveral chapels.

THE ſeat was ſurrounded with every conveniency for good living; and every ſupport to hoſpitality: a park, warren, and pigeon-houſe; a mill, orchard, and vineyard; and fiſh-pond, filled with pike and gwyniads. The laſt introduced from the lake at Bala.

[306]A HERONRY, which was a concomitant to the ſeat of every great man, ſupplied him and his gueſts with game for the ſport of falconry.

A PLACE ſtill remains, that retains the name of his park. It extends about a mile or two beyond the ſite of his houſe, on the left-hand of the valley.

THE veſtiges of the houſe are ſmall. The moat is very apparent: the meaſurement of the area it incloſed, is forty-ſix paces by twenty-ſix. There is the appearance of a wall on the outſide, which was continued to the top of a great mount, on which ſtood the wooden houſe. On the other ſide, but at a greater diſtance, I had paſſed by another mount of the ſame kind, called Hêndom; which probably might have had formerly a building ſimilar to that deſcribed by the bard. This, perhaps, was the ſtation of a guard, to prevent ſurprize or inſult from the Engliſh ſide. He had much to apprehend from the neighboring fortreſs of Dinas Brân, and its appendages, poſſeſſed by the earl of Arundel, a ſtrenuous ſupporter of the houſe of Lancaſter.

THE bard ſpeaks feelingly of the wine, the ale, the braget, and the white bread; nor does he forget the kitchen, nor the important officer the cook; whoſe life (when in the royal ſervice) was eſtimated by our laws at a hundred and twenty-ſix cows *. Such was the hoſpitality of this houſe, that the place of porter was uſeleſs; nor were locks or bolts known. To ſum up all, no one could be hungry or dry in Sycharth, the name of the place.

[307]THE bard pays all due praiſe to the lady of the houſe, and her offspring.

A Gwraig orau o'r gwragedd,
WIFE.
Gwynn y myd, o'i Gwin a'i medd.
Merch eglur, Llin marchawglyw,
Urddol, hael, o reiol ryw.
A'i blant, a ddeuant bob ddau
Nythod tèg o bennaethau!
HIS wife, the beſt of wives!
Happy am I in her wine and metheglin.
Eminent woman of a knightly family.
Honorable, beneficent, noble.
His children come in pairs;
A beautiful neſt of chieftains.

THE lady whom he thus celebrates, was Margaret daughter of Sir David Hanmer of Hanmer, in the county of Flint, one of the juſtices of the king's bench, by appointment of Richard II. in 1383, and knighted by him in 1387 *. Her nuptials were previous to her father's promotion; for it is certain that ſome of the daughters were married, and his ſons grown to men's eſtate, before Glyndwr appeared in arms in the year 1400.CHILDREN. They followed him into the field, and commanded under him. It is probable that moſt of them fell gloriouſly in battle. Mr. Brown Willis, indeed, ſays, that on their father's death they fled into Ireland; that one of them ſettled in Dublin, and took the name [308] of Baulf *, or the ſtrong; and was anceſtor to a reputable family in that city.

HE matched his daughters into conſiderable families.

HIS eldeſt, Iſabel, to Adam or Adda ap Jorwerth Ddu.

HIS ſecond, Elizabeth, or as ſome ſay Alicia, was married to Sir John Scudamore of Ewyas, and Holm-Lacy, in the county of Hereford.

JONET, to John Crofts of Croft Caſtle, in the ſame county.

LORD GREY of Ruthyn took, through neceſſity, Jane, after he was made priſoner by her father, who forced him into the alliance.

HIS youngeſt daughter, Margaret, was married to Roger Monnington of Monnington, in the county of Hereford, towards the borders of Brecknockſhire. The eſtate ſtill continues in the name and family. I have had the pleaſure of ſeeing at my houſe two ladies, owners of the place, direct deſcendants from the daughter of Glyndwr.

HIS illegitimate iſſue were, his ſon Jevan; a daughter, married into the houſe of Gwernan; another, named Myfanwy, to Llewelyn ap Adda of Trefor; and Gwenllian, to Philip ap Rys of St. Harmon in Radnorſhire.

LEWIS GLYN COTHI, a bard of the time of Henry VI. ſpeaks in high terms of her father Glyndwr:

Ei Thad oedd dwyſawg eadarn,
A holl Gymru fu'n ei farn.

'Her father was a potent prince. All Wales was in his council.'

[309]I MUST not omit notice of a miſtake of the Engliſh hiſtorians, who mention the marriage of another daughter of Glyndwr to Edmund earl of March. This, they aſſert, was alſo effected by force, after the earl became his priſoner: but it does not appear that he ever was Glyndwr's captive; or that March had any other wife than Anne †, daughter to Edmund earl of Stafford; beſides, the Welſh hiſtories are totally ſilent on that head.

SUCH was the ſtate of the domeſtic affairs of Glyndwr at the change of government in 1399. His reſentment againſt the uſurper was whetted by wrongs public and private: by the murder of the unhappy Richard, to whom he was ſtrongly attached by being a perſonal favorite; and by the ſtrong partiality the Welſh had for their late king.

IN the very firſt year or the new reign, he experienced the frowns of the court.OPPRESSED BY LORD GREY. Reginald lord Grey of Ruthyn, taking advantage of the depoſal of Richard, inſtantly ſeized on a certain common, called Croeſeu, which Glyndwr, in a former reign, had recovered from him by courſe of law. Owen fought juſtice without having recourſe to violence: he laid his caſe before parlement; but his ſuit was diſmiſſed without redreſs.

THIS inſult was aggravated by another injury. When Henry went on his expedition againſt the Scots, Owen was to have been ſummoned, among other barons, to attend the king with his vaſſals. The writ for that purpoſe was delivered to Reginald , who deſignedly neglected to deliver it till the time was nearly [310] elapſed, and it became impoſſible for him to obey. Regineld returned to the king, and miſrepreſented the abſence of O [...]n as an act of wilful diſobedience; and, by this piece of treachery, took poſſeſſion of all his land; and on this, under pretence of forfeiture, invaded ſuch parts of Glyndwr's eſtates as lay adjacent to his own.

THE danger of driving into deſperate meaſures a perſon of his intereſt, ſpirit, and abilities, was foreſeen by John Trevor biſhop of St. Aſaph, who adviſed more temperate proceedings; that Owen was by no means a deſpicable enemy; and that the W [...]lſh would certainly be provoked into a general inſurrection. His advice was rejected, and he was told there could be no fear about ſuch a bare-footed rabble*.

IT does not appear that Glyndwr, till this period, had any ſettled deſign of flinging off the Engliſh yoke. Ambition now came in, and joined with his revenge.ASSERTS HIS CLAME TO WALES. He revolved in his mind his own genealogy: he derived himſelf from the antient race of Britiſh princes; and, apparently laying aſide all ſenſe of private wrong, made open clame to the throne of Wales. To encourage his countrymen, ſtrongly attached to the prophecies of antient times, he reminded them of thoſe of Merlin and other ſages. His bards ſet before them the great qualities of their leader; and taught them to expect from his valor and conduct, the freedom of antient Britons from the galling weight of the Saxon yoke. His chief bard, Gryffydd Llwyd, after regretting his abſence, chaunts his praiſe, and predicts the [311] ſucceſs of the war. The Cowydd, or poem, begins thus in the original:

Eryr digriſ afriſed
OWAIN, &c.

THE reader will receive it agreeably paraphraſed by a bard of 1773.

1.
CAMBRIA'S princely eagle, hail!
Of Gryffydd Vychan's noble blood!
Thy high renown ſhall never fail,
Owain Glyndwr, great and good!
Lord of Dwrdwy's fertile vale,
Warlike, high-born Owain, hail!
Dwrdwy, whoſe wide-ſpreading ſtreamſ,
Reflecting Cynthia's midnight beams,
Whilom led me to thy bower;
Alas! in an unguarded hour!
For high in blood, with Britiſh beverage hot,
My awful diſtance I forgot;
But ſoon my generous chief forgave
The rude preſumption of his ſlave.
2.
But leave me not, illuſtrious lord!
Thy peaceful bow'r, and hoſpitable board,
Are ill exchang'd for ſcenes of war,
Tho' Henry calls thee from afar.
My prayers, my tears were vain;
He flew like lightning to the hoſtile plain.
While with remorſe, regret, and woe,
I ſaw the god-like hero go;
[312]I ſaw, with aching heart,
The golden beam depart.
His glorious image in my mind
Was all that Owain left behind.
Wild with deſpair, and woe-begone,
Thy faithful bard is left alone,
To ſigh, to weep, to groan!
3.
Thy ſweet remembrance, ever dear,
Thy name, ſtill uſher'd by a tear,
My inward anguiſh ſpeak;
How could'ſt thou, cruel Owain, go,
And leave the bitter ſtreams to flow
Down Gryffydd's ſurrow'd cheek?
I heard (who has not heard thy fame?)
With extaſy I heard thy name
Loud echo'd by the trump of war,
Which ſpoke thee brave, and void of fear;
Yet of a gentle heart poſſeſs'd,
That bled within thy generous breaſt,
Wide o'er the ſanguine plain to ſee
The haveck of hoſtility.
4.
Still with good omens may'ſt thou fight.
And do thy injur'd country right!
Like great P [...]dragon * ſhalt thou ſoar,
Who bade the din of battle roar,
[313]What time his vengeful ſteel he drew
His brother's grandeur to renew,
And vindicate his wrongs;
His gallant actions ſtill are told
By youthful bards, by Druids old,
And grateful Cambria's, ſongs.
5.
On ſea, on land, thou ſtill didſt brave
The dangerous cliff and rapid wave;
Like Urien, who ſubdu'd the knight,
And the fell dragon put to flight,
Yon moſs-grown fount beſide;
The grim, black warrior of the flood,
The dragon, gorg'd with human blood,
The water's ſcaly pride.
Before his ſword the mighty fled:
But now he's number'd with the dead.
Oh! may his great example fire
My noble patron to aſpire
To deeds like his! impetuous fly.
And bid the Saxon ſquadrons die:
So ſhall thy laurel'd bard rehearſe
Thy praiſe, in never-dying verſe;
Shall ſing the proweſs of thy ſword,
Beloved and victorious lord!
6.
In future times thy honor'd name
Shall emulate brave Urien's ſame!
Surrounded by the numerous foe,
Well didſt thou deal th' unequal blow.
How terrible thy aſhen ſpear,
Which ſhook the braveſt heart with fear,
[314]Yon hoſtile towers beneath!
More horrid than the lightning's glance,
Flaſh'd the red meteors from thy lance,
The harbinger of death.
Dire, and more dire, the conflict grew;
Thouſands before thy preſence flew;
While borne in thy triumphal car,
Majeſtic as the god of war,
Midſt charging hoſts unmov'd you ſtood,
Or waded thro' a ſea of blood.
7.
Immortal fame ſhall be thy meed,
Due to every glorious deed;
Which lateſt annals ſhall record,
Beloved and victorious lord!
Grace, wiſdom, valor, all are thine,
Owain Glyndwrdwy divine!
Meet emblem of a two-edg'd ſword,
Dreaded in war, in peace ador'd!
Steer thy ſwift ſhips to Albion's coaſt,
Pregnant with thy martial hoſt.
Thy robes are white as driven ſnow,
And virtue ſmiles upon thy brow:
But terrible in war thou art,
And ſwift and certain is the dart
Thou hurleſt at a Saxon's heart.
8.
Loud ſame has told thy gallant deeds;
In every word a Saxon bleeds.
Terror, and flight, together came,
Obedient to thy mighty name:
Death, in the van, with ample ſtride,
Hew'd thee a paſſage deep and wide.
[315]Stubborn as ſteel, thy nervous cheſt
With more than mortal ſtrength's poſſeſs'd;
And every excellence belongs
To the bright ſubject of our ſongs.
9.
Strike then your harps, ye Cambrian bards;
The ſong of triumph beſt rewards
An hero's toils. Let Henry weep
His warriors wrapt in everlaſting ſleep;
Succeſs and victory are thine,
Owain Glyndwrdwy divine!
Dominion, honor, pleaſure, praiſe,
Attend upon thy vigorous days!
And, when thy evening ſun is ſet,
May grateful Cambria ne'er forget
Thy noontide blaze; but on thy tomb
Never-fading laurels bloom!

He firſt appeared in arms in the ſummer of the year 1400APPEARS IN ARMS. He naturally directed his attack againſt the lands of his enemy lord Grey; and immediately recovered what he had unjuſtly been diſpoſſeſſed of, during the abſence of the former. As ſoon as the news reached Henry, he ſent lord Talbot and lord Grey to reduce him. They arrived with ſuch ſpeed, that they ſurrounded his houſe before he had any notice; but he had the good fortune to eſcape into the woods. He immediately raiſed a powerful band of men; and, after cauſing himſelf to be proclamed prince of Wales, on the 20th of September, ſurprized, plundered, and burnt to the ground the town of Ruthyn, BURNS RUTHYN. at the time a fair was held [316] there. After which he retired to his faſtneſſes among the mountains. One, I imagine to have been the great ſtrength, ſurrounded by a vaſt rampart of ſtones, near Corwen, called Caer Drewyn.

HENRY,FIRST MARCH OF HENRY AGAINST HIM. determined to ſuppreſs this revolt in the beginning, marched in perſon againſt Owen, and penetrated as far as the iſle of Angleſea, putting to the ſword all that reſiſted. He plundered the convent of Llanvaes *; ſlew ſome of the monks, and took the reſt away with him; at length ſet them at liberty, and made reſtitution to the monaſtery; but peopled it again with Engliſh religious. The monks of Llanvaes had been Franciſcans; an order who were firm adherents to the late prince; and who, in general, were ſuſpected of promoting the inſurrection of Glyndwr, and even of inviting him to invade England. This occaſioned a perſecution of them, and ſeveral were executed on that account. Their intelligence with Glyndwr is very evident from the favor he ſhewed the order on the taking of Cardiff, in the year 1402; when he burnt the whole town, excepting the ſtreet inhabited by the Franciſcans.

THE king returned without effecting any material action; for, on his approach, Owen retired among the Snowdon hills§.

THE proclamation for aſſembling the forces for this expedition, was dated on the 19th of September, from Northampton, and addreſſed to the lieutenants of Warwickſhire, Leiceſter, and [317] eight other counties; in which all perſons capable of bearing arms, within their juriſdiction, were directed to array themſelves, and be ready to march to ſuch place as his majeſty directed; who acquaints the lieutenants, that he ſhould lie at Coventry on his road to Wales the Monday following*.

ON the ſame day he iſſued out an order to the bailifſs and good people of Shrewſbury, SHREWSBURY SECURED BY HENRY: to take proper ſteps to ſecure that important place; and that they oblige all the Welſh reſident in the town, to give ſecurity for their loyal behaviour; and in caſe of refuſal, to commit them to priſon.

ON the eighth of November in the ſame year,WHO GRANTS OWEN'S ESTATES TO THE EARL OF SOMERSET; he made a grant of all the eſtates of Glyndwr, in North and South Wales, to his brother John earl of Somerſet ; an act as weak as it was irritating: for Owen was ſo far from being in any danger of being diſpoſſeſſed of them, that at this very time he was growing more powerful by the acceſſion of new forces. It is remarkable, that his revenue in money at this period did not exceed three hundred marks; which ſhewed that his rents in kind muſt have been very conſiderable.

BUT the laſt public act of this year was conciliating.AND OZERRS PARDON TO THE WELSH. The king made one endeavour to bring back the Welſh to their allegiance by fair means; and for that end iſſued a proclamation, on the 30th of November, offering to take under his protection all that would reſort to the city of Cheſter, and there make their ſubmiſſion to his ſon Henry prince of Wales; PRINCE HENRY FIRST APPEARS. after which they ſhould be at liberty to return to their reſpective [318] homes*. Henry was at that time but twelve years of age; ſo early was he initiated into ſtate affairs; ſo early appeared thoſe ſparks of genius, which ſhone afterwards with ſuch brilliancy.

1401

THE firſt half of this year paſſed without any memorable action.OWEN AUGMENTS HIS FORCES. Owen was buſied in augmenting his forces; he made conſiderable levies in Wales; and received continual addition to his ſtrength, by the great reſort of his countrymen of all orders, who had gone into England for the ſake of education, or to gain a livelihood by different occupations.

THE ſtate of Henry's affairs,STATE OF HENEY'S AFFAIRS AT THIS TIME. in reſpect to the European monarchs, the badneſs of his title to the crown of England, and the repentance of ſeveral of the great men for their diſloyalty to their late prince, were circumſtances highly in favor of Glyndwr.

CHARLES VI. of France, father-in-law to the unhappy Richard, prepared to revenge his depoſal and murder. The confuſion of his own affairs, luckily for Henry, prevented the reſentment of the French monarch. He contented himſelf with receiving back, his daughter Iſabel, and her paraphernalia: and Henry gladly renewed a truce with him for thirty years.

THE Scots taking advantage of his ſituation, threatened him with invaſion. This made it dangerous for him to engage in a diſtant war, and obliged him to continue for a conſiderable time in the central parts of his dominion, to act according to the neceſſity [319] of events. In reſpect to the Welſh, he contented himſelf with iſſuing out pardons*, (at the inſtance of prince Henry,) to all that had appeared in arms in the counties of Caernarvon, Angleſey, and Flint, and the people of Denbigh and Merioneth; HENRY OFFERS NEW PARDONS. to the inhabitants of Chirkland, Bromfield, and Yale; to the hundred of Oſweſtry; and to thoſe of Elleſmere and Whittington; which I find were then reckoned parts of Wales. Owen himleif, Rice ap Tudor, William ap Tudor, and all ſuch as were in actual cuſtody, or ſuch who ſhould continue in arms, were excepted. The firſt pardon was given out the 10th of May, the lateſt, the 5th of June, and, as will appear, with ſome effect.

GLYNDWR's fortune and intereſt lay, as was before mentioned, both in North and in South Wales. This ſummer he marched with a hundred and twenty men of arms, and, with great policy,OWEN POSTS HIMSELF ON PLINLIMMON. poſted himſelf on Plinlimmon hill, a lofty mountain, the limits of Cardiganſhire and Montgomeryſhire, admirably adapted for receiving ſuccours from his vaſſals and friends in each part of the principality. From hence his followers made plundering excurſions, and were the terror of all that declined eſpouſing his cauſe. The county of Montgomery ſuffered greatly.PLUNDERS MONTGOMERY. He ſacked the capital town, burnt the ſuburbs of Pool, and ravaged all the borders. He deſtroyed the abby of Comhere in Radnorſhire; took the caſtle of Radnor, and cauſed the whole garriſon, to the number of threeſcore,BEHEADS SIXTY MEN. to be beheaded on the brink of the caſtle-yard. The provocation to this piece of cruelty does not appear.

[320]THE Flemings, inhabitants of Roſs, Pembroke, and Cardiganſhire, ſuffered ſo greatly from Glyndwr, that they determined to attempt to remove ſo troubleſome a neighbour.SURPRISED; They aſſembled a body of fifteen hundred men, and made ſo expeditious a march, as to ſurround Owen and his forces, at a place called Mynydd Hyddgant, before he had any notice of their approach. They hemmed him in on every ſide; and, notwithſtanding he could make no retreat without great diſadvantage, he made a long; and manful defence. At length, finding it impoſſible to ſubſiſt in that place, he determined to cut a paſſage through the enemy, or periſh in the attempt.YET DEFEATS THE ENEMY. He knew that neither he nor his men were to expect any mercy; ſo, actuated by deſpair, they fell furiouſly on the Flemings, and, after a ſtrong diſpute, flung them into great diſorder; which Owen taking advantage of, redoubled his attack, and at length put them to night, leaving two hundred of their party dead on the ſpot.

THIS victory added greatly to the reputation of Glyndwr. Multitudes reſorted to his ſtandard, and contributed to make him a moſt formidable enemy.

HENRY, alarmed at his ſucceſſes, marched a ſecond time in perſon.HENRY'S SECOND MARCH. He entered Wales with a great army about the beginning of June *, deſtroyed the abby of Strathfleur in Cardiganſhire, and ravaged the country; but was obliged to make a diſgraceful retreat, after his forces had ſuffered greatly by famine, and the great fatigues they continually underwent.

[321]THE monk of Eveſham * relates an inſtance of paternal affection, much to the honor of our country. A Welſhman, having made a raſh promiſe to the king to betray Glyndwr, refuſed afterwards to perform it; and, eagerly ſtretching out his neck to the headſman, told him to ſtrike, for that he had two ſons at that time in the ſervice of his chieftain; therefore would on no account reveal his councils, which would prove ſo penal to them.

IT is probable,CORRUPTS SOME OF OWEN'S FRIENDS. that during this expedition Henry found means to corrupt the fidelity of ſeveral of the friends of Glyndwr; for we find a free pardon granted to William ap Tudor, (a gentleman who had been excepted in the pardon of laſt year) and to thirty-one principal perſons of the country. This is dated from Weſtminſter on the 8th of July .

THIS defection ſeemed to have very little effect on the ſpirit of Glyndwr. He acquired new friends, and ſuch addition of ſtrength, that the king reſolved to go again in perſon againſt him. He iſſued out his orders to the lieutenants of Devonſhire, and one and twenty other counties, to repair with their forces to Worceſter on the firſt of October. Our old hiſtorians are ſilent about the event of this expedition; but Mr. Carte ſays, that it was unfortunate as the former.MAKES A THIRD EXPEDITION. Thus concluded the tranſactions of this year.

1402.

THIS year was uſhered in with a comet,A COMET. or blazing-ſtar; which the bards interpreted as an omen favourable to the cauſe of Glyndwr. It ſerved to infuſe ſpirit into the minds of a ſuperſtitious [322] people: the firſt ſucceſs of their chieftain confirmed their belief, and gave new vigor to their actions.

LORD GREY was the firſt that felt the effects of Owen's power. That nobleman, ſtrongly attached to Henry, and impatient of the injuries which he and his friends received from Glyndwr, raiſed a conſiderable army; encountered him; was defeated, and made priſoner.OWEN DEFEATS LORD GREY. Hiſtorians differ about the ſcene of action. The Welſh lay it on the banks of the Fyrnwy, in the county of Montgomery. The Engliſh ſay that it was in the neighborhood of Ruthyn; and that Owen advancing towards the caſtle with a party of men, drew his incautious rival into the field, where he fell into an ambuſh, and was taken, and carried faſt bound into confinement, amidſt the ſavage faſtneſſes of the Snowdon hills*. This relation ſeems probable, not only as the caſtle of Ruthyn was the chief ſeat of lord Grey, but a fortreſs of ſuch ſtrength as to baffle all attempts of Glyndwr, in the infancy of his inſurrection, without having recourſe to ſtratagem.

LORD GREY remained for a long time in captivity,MAKES HIM PAY A GREAT RANSOM nor did he gain his liberty till he paid to him the vaſt ſum of ten thouſand marks. He was ſuch a perſonal favorite with the king, who, pitying the ſeverity with which he was treated, and admiring the firmneſs with which he reſiſted the offers of Glyndwr to make him ſwerve from his loyalty, that his majeſty iſſued out a ſpecial commiſſion, dated the 10th of October in this year, empowering Sir William de Roos, Sir Richard de Grey, Sir William de Willughby, Sir William de Zouch, John Henry, William Vans, [323] John Lee, John Longford, Thomas Payne, and John Elnſtow, to treat with Owen and his council about the ranſom. It was agreed to pay ſix thouſand marks on the day of St. Martin * following, and give, as hoſtages for the payment of the remainder, his eldeſt ſon, and ſome other perſons. And, in order to raiſe the money, Henry gave licence to Robert Braybrook biſhop of London, and two others, feoffees of divers lordſhips for lord Grey, to ſell the lordſhip of Herteleigh in Kent. He alſo abſolved him for ſix years from the forfeiture of two-thirds of the profits of his Iriſh eſtates, uſually exacted from ſuch who were non-reſident in that kingdom.

AFTER this he was ſet at liberty, and he and his tenants ſuffered to enjoy their property without moleſtation. It is probable, that Owen engaged his lordſhip to obſerve a neutrality, as another term of redemption. Lord Grey ſeemed likewiſe to think it neceſſary to ſecure both his people and himſelf by an alliance with Owen; for no ſooner was he releaſed, than he married Jane, AND MARRY ONE OF HIS DAUGHTERS. third daughter of the furious chieftain. He had no iſſue by this lady. The match was probably compulſive; at beſt, political. Some of the Engliſh hiſtorians pretend that he died in captivity: but that he obtained his liberty, and long ſurvived this treaty, is evident: for in 1409, he was ordered by Henry to his eſtates, to repel the ravages his father-in-law made on the borders. He even lived to ſerve in the French wars in the reign of Henry V. and his ſucceſſor, and died in the year 1440.

[324]OWEN, after ſecuring this potent enemy, began to give a free rein to his revenge; to puniſh ſuch of his countrymen whom he conſidered as traitors to the generous cauſe of freedom, by an unnatural adherence to the Engliſh, whoſe yoke they had borne for ſuch a length of time.

HE burnt the houſes of Kevn y fan, and Ceſail-gyfarch, belonging to Jevan ap Meredyth, a partizan of the houſe of Lancaſter; and to whom, and Meredyth ap Hwlkin Llwyd of Glyn-l [...]ivon was intruſted (under an Engliſh captain) the caſtle of Caernarvon. This place was ſo cloſely blocked up by the friends of Glyndwr, that Jevan happening to die there at that time, it was found neceſſary to carry his corpſe by ſea, in order to inter it in the pariſhchurch of Penmorva, on the other ſide of the county*.

HOWEL SELE of Nannau in Merionethſhire, STORY OR HOWEL SELE. firſt couſin to Owen, had a harder fate. He likewiſe was an adherent to the houſe of Lancaſter. Owen and this chieftain had been long at variance. I have been informed, that the abbot of Kymmer, near Dolgellu, in hopes of reconciling them, brought them together, and to all appearance effected his charitable deſign. While they were walking out, Owen obſerved a doe feeding, and told Howel, who was reckoned the beſt archer of his days, that there was a fine mark for him. Howel bent his bow, and, pretending to aim at the doe, ſuddenly turned and diſcharged the arrow full at the breaſt of Glyndwr, who fortunately had armour beneath his cloaths, ſo received no hurt. Enraged at this treachery, he ſeized on Sole, burnt his houſe, and hurried him away from the place; nor could ever any one learn how he was diſpoſed of: till, forty [325] years after, the ſkeleton of a large man, ſuch as Howel, was diſcovered in the hollow of a great oak, in which Owen was ſuppoſed to have immured him in reward of his perſidy. The ruins of the old houſe are to be ſeen in Nannau park, a mere compoſt of cinders and aſhes.

IT muſt be obſerved, that when Owen was carrying him away, his relation Gryffydd ap Gwyn, of Ganllwyd in Ardudwy, attempted his reſcue, but was defeated with the loſs of numbers of his men, and of his houſes of Berthlwyd and Ceſn Coch, which were burnt to aſhes.

IT was about this period that Owen wreaked his revenge on the eccleſiaſtics who had favored the cauſe of the Engliſh. BURNS ST. AS [...]PH AND BANGOR. His conduct in this inſtance fe [...]rs indefenſible, for he paid no regard to the moſt ſacred edifices, but ſacrilegiouſly deſtroyed the cathedrals of Bangor and St. Aſaph, with the epiſcopal palace, and the canons houſes belonging to the laſt. He vented, in a particular manner, his reſentment againſt the laſt; as the biſhop, John Trevor, received his preferment from Richard, OF BISHOP TREVOR. yet was ſo diſloyal as to pronounce againſt his unfortunate maſter the ſentence of depoſition, in favor of the uſurping Henry; and afterwards to accept an embaſſy to the court of Spain, to juſtify Bolingbroke's proceedings to the reigning prince.

HENRY conſidered him as a ſufferer in his cauſe; therefore gave power to the biſhops of Hereford, Voltorno, and Bangor, to ſuffer him to hold in commendam the living of Meivod, with the chapels of Pool and Kegidva, or Guilsfield, in order to ſupport his dignity during the ravage of his dioceſe*.

[326]TREVOR returned to England about the time of the deſtruction of his cathedral. Two years after this, he revolted from Henry, and joined with Glyndwr, to whom he adhered the reſt of his days. He appeared in arms with him in the year 1409. In the year following, on the decline of Owen's affairs, he retired to Paris, died, and was buried in the chapel of the infirmary of the abby de St. Victoire there; and the following epitaph inſcribed to his memory: Hic jacet Reverendus in CHRISTO Pater Jobannes Epiſcopus Aſaphenſis in Wallia, qui obiit A. D. 1410. Die Veneris x menſis Aprilis; cujus anima feliciter requieſeat in pace. Amen.

GLYNDWR was pleaſed to confirm Trevor in his ſee,OWEN CONFIRMS HIM IN HIS SEE; on returning to his allegiance; but depoſed from that of Bangor Richard Younge, AND DEPOSES THE BISHOP OF BANGOR. for his adherence to the uſurper, and kept him in cloſe confinement. Owen alſo appointed in his room Llewelyn, or, as ſome call him, Lewis Bifort; whoſe name is mentioned in 1406, among the chief of the inhabitants fined or outlawed on account of Glyndwr's inſurrection in the iſle of Angleſey. He afterwards joined with the earl of Northumberland and lord Bardolph, and was taken priſoner in the caſtle of Bramham Moor, in February 1407-8, when thoſe two noblemen were ſlain: but the biſhop's life was ſpared, as he was found unarmed.

HENRY was alarmed at the ſucceſſes of Glyndwr, and reſolved to march in perſon againſt him once more. He iſſued out w [...]ts§ to the lieutenants of Nottingham and Derby, and to thoſe of thirty two other counties, dated from the caſtle of B. [...], [327] June 5th; in which he requires them to aſſemble the forces of their reſpective juriſdictions, and to attend him at Lichfield on the 7th of July, in order to ſuppreſs this dangerous revolt.

BEFORE the king could aſſemble his forces, news arrived of the great victory which Glyndwr obtained, on the 22d of June, GAINS A GREAT VICTORY AT PILLETH. over Sir Edmund Mortimer. Owen, after the defeat of lord Grey, purſued his reſentment againſt all the chieftains unfavorable to his deſigns; advanced with his army towards Herefordſhire, and the borders of South Wales; and carried fire and ſword through the lands of his opponents. None ſuffered ſo ſeverely as the vaſſals and tenants of Edward Mortimer earl of March, a child of ten years of age, who, with his brother Roger, was in the cuſtody of the king at that time. Henry was very ſenſible of the juſt title this child had to the crown, being deſended from Lionel duke of Clarence, third ſon to Edward III. His title had even been acknowleged in parlement. This increaſed his majeſty's apprehenſions, and made him conſider the misfortunes of that family the ſtrengthening of his own throne.

SIR EDMUND MORTIMER, uncle to this youth, unable any longer to bear the depredations of Owen, collected a large body of his nephew's tenants and retainers out of the county of Hereford, and the adjacent parts, particularly from Melienydd in Radnorſhire, and with theſe marched againſt the invader. A bloody action enſued on Bryn-glas, a mountain near Pilleth, a little ſouth-weſt of Knighton, in Radnorſhire. Victory declared in favor of our countryman. Some writers aſſert, that the archers of Mortimer's army bent their bows againſt their own party*. Another ſays, that March's Welſh tenants took [328] to flight at the firſt onſet, and occaſioned the defeat. The loſs chiefly fell on the people of Herefordſhire. Eleven hundred fell on the ſide of Mortimer. ‘The ſhamefull villanie uſed by the Welſhwomen towards the dead carcaſſes,’ ſays Holinſhed, ‘was ſuch as honeſt eares would be aſhamed to heare, and continent toongs to ſpeak thereof. The dead bodies might not be buried, without great ſummes of monie given for libertie to conveie them awaie*.’

SHAKESPEAR flings a fine horror over this dreadful tale, in relating,

When, all athwart there came
A poſt from Wales loaden with heavy news;
Whoſe worſt was, that the noble Mortimir,
Leading the men of Herefordſhire to fight
Againſt the irregular and wild Glendower,
Was by the rude hands of that Welſhman taken;
A thouſand of his people butchered,
Upon whoſe dead corpſe there was ſuch miſuſe,
Sach beaſtly, ſhameleſs transformation
By thoſe Welſhwomen done, as may not be,
Without much ſhame, re-told or ſpoken of.

I WISH I could exculpate my countrywomen from this heavy charge. It originates from Thomas de Walſmgham, an hiſtorian who, it muſt be confeſſed, wrote within forty years of this event. To his authority I beg leave to oppoſe that of another antient writer, who aſcribes theſe barbarities to a follower of Glyndwr, [329] one Rees a Gyrch *. I flatter myſelf that this was the caſe; for, had it been otherwiſe, it would have been totally unneceſſary to diſcourage the Engliſh, by an expreſs law, from marrying with ſuch furies as the Welſhwomen were repreſented to have been.

MANY hiſtorians pretend, that the young earl of March was preſent at this defeat; was made priſoner; and, to enſure his allegiance, obliged to marry a daughter of Glyndwr. But at this time he endured another ſpecies of confinement at Windſor: his uncle commanded the forces of the family,TAKES PRISONER SIR EDMUND MORTIMER and loſt his liberty in the battle. Great inſtances were made to Henry for leave to ranſom him; but the jealous king, rejoicing in the misfortunes of this rival houſe, ſuffered him to continue in the power of his enemy; alleging, that Sir Edmund had treacherouſly flung himſelf into the hands of Glyndwr.

AFTER this victory, Glyndwr received from all parts of Wales acceſſion of ſtrength. Notwithſtanding Henry was indifferent about the fate of the Mortimers, his own ſafety now required him to act with vigor. The deſign of aſſembling his army at Lichfield was laid aſide. New writs were iſſued out, dated the 31ſt of July. It was reſolved to diſtract the Welſh by three invaſions from different quarters. The rendevous of the firſt army was to be at Shrewſhury, to be commanded by the king in perſon; the ſecond at Hereford, to be aſſembled by Edmund earl of Stafford, Richard earl of Warwick, and the lords Grey, Alergavenny, Audeley, and Berkly; and the third, under the conduct [330] of prince Henry, at Cheſter. The forces were to be aſſembled at each place by the 27th of Auguſt *.

OWEN, aſſured that theſe preparations could not take effect till a certain time, gave looſe to his reſentment, in the beginning of Auguſt, againſt the inhabitants of Glamorganſhire, who had ſided with the Engliſh. RAVAGES GLAMORGANSHIRE. He marched into that county, ravaged it on all parts; and, after burning the biſhop's caſtle and the archdeacon's houſe at Llandaff, in the ſame inroad he likewiſe burnt Cardiff and Abergavenny; and then returned to make head againſt the Engliſh.

THE Scots, at this time, took advantage of the commotions of the Welſh; and, under the command of the great Douglas, invaded England with a body of twelve or thirteen thouſand men. It is almoſt certain, that they acted in concert with Glyndwr. Both nations were united in a common hatred of the Engliſh. Both had felt the weight of their power. The Scots meditated their inroad at the very time that Henry had drawn his forces to the borders of Wales, and, as they hoped, left the northern borders unguarded. Henry had intelligence, that it was to take place on the aſſumption of the bleſſed Virgin, or the 15th of Auguſt; and, in order to defeat it, directed the lieutenant of the county of Lincoln to haſten towards the north, with all the men he could raiſe.

HENRY,HENRY'S FOURTH MARCH. during this time, proceeded on his expedition againſt the Welſh. It does not appear whether the army under his ſon, and that under the earl of Arundel (on whom the command of the [331] ſecond army was beſtowed) made ſeparate diverſions into different parts of the country in his favor; or whether he united their forces with his own. The event of his invaſion was very unfortunate. Glyndwr, who had too much prudence to hazard a battle againſt ſo ſuperior an army, retired to the faſtneſſes of the mountains; and drove away the cattle, and deſtroyed every means the Engliſh had of ſubſiſtence. The ſeaſon proved uncommonly bad; for the very elements ſeem to have warred againſt them.UNSUCCESSFUL. A continued courſe of ſtorms and rains, with the continual watching againſt an enemy ever hovering over them, and ready to take every occaſion of falling on them from the heights, waſted the army with ſickneſs and fatigue; and obliged the king once more to make a moſt inglorious retreat.

THE Engliſh, OWEN REPUTED A MAGICIAN. willing to cover their ſhame, attributed the cauſe of their diſgrace to the incantations of the Britiſh chieftain; 'who,' as an old hiſtorian expreſſes, ‘through art magike (as was thought) cauſed ſuch foule weather of winds, tempeſt, raine, ſnow, and haile, to be raiſed for the annoiance of the king's armie, that the like had not beene heard of.’ Perhaps Glyndwr, as well to infuſe terror into his foes, as to give his people a more exalted notion of him, might politically inſinuate his ſkill in ſpells and charms, that they might ſuppoſe him aided by more than mortal power. This ſpecies of credulity was not only ſtrong at this time, but even continued to more enlightened days.

OWEN, by the mouth of Shakeſpear, ſpeaks thus of his intercourſe with the tribe of ſpints, and of his ſkill in the myſtic arts of divination:

[332]
Where is he living, clipt in with the ſea
That chides the banks of England, Wales, or Scotland,
Who calls me pupil, or has read to me?
And bring him out, that is but woman's ſon,
Can trace me in the tedious ways of art,
Or hold me pace in deep experiments.
I can call ſpirits from the vaſty deep!

THE poet, on this occaſion, plays finely with the warmth of Glyndwr; and draws from him that characteriſtic ſpirit of our country, which is nobly prompt to riſe on the appearance, or ſometimes even on the very apprehenſion of inſult.

HENRY quickly received news from the north, that ſerved to alleviate the ill ſucceſs of his invaſion. The earl of Northumberland, and other northern barons, had aſſembled their forces to oppoſe the Scots, then on their return home; overtook them on Holyrood-day, or the 15th of September, BATTLE OF HOMELDON: on Homeldon hill near Wooler, and gained over them a complete victory. Numbers of the Scotch nobility were ſlain in the fight; and numbers taken, among whom was their gallant commander Archibald earl or Douglas, ſtyled by his countrymen Tyneman, from the loſs of men that attended him in all his conflicts.

THIS battle was productive of great events; and proved in the end the deſtruction of the Percy family. It was uſual for the priſoners to fall to the ſhare of the victors; and that each perſon who was fortunate or brave enough to make a captive, ſhould receive the reward of his valor, by having liberty to ranſom him, according to his rank or abilities.ITS CONSEQUENCES. Henry Percy ſurnamed Hotſpur, had himſelf, by the fortune of war, been made [333] priſoner by the Scots, and was redeemed according to the antient cuſtom of arms. The victors at this time expected and clamed the ſame right; but Henry, wiſhing to detain, as hoſtages for the peaceable conduct of the Scottiſh nation, theſe illuſtrious captives, ſent directions to the earl of Northumberland, that he ſhould by no means ſet them at liberty; but that he ſhould deliver them to him. Henry ſoftened this demand by rewarding Northumberland with a conſiderable grant of lands on the borders of Scotland *; and parlement even ſent him a letter of thanks for his good ſervices.THE PERCIES DISCONTENTED; Notwithſtanding this, the Percies were greatly diſſatisfied. Whether their high ſpirit reſented the invaſion of the antient title of victors to their priſoners; or whether they were ſeized with remorſe for their diſloyalty to their former maſter; or whether they were actuated by the ambition of becoming independent; or whether all theſe cauſes might not cooperate, is not very certain; yet, from this time, they formed their deſign of flinging off their allegiance to Henry.

A GREAT diſcontent with his government at this period began to ſeize the nation. The affection for the murdered Richard revived. So willing were the people to imagine him ſtill alive, that the many reports invented on that ſubject were greedily ſwallowed; and a proneneſs to revolt almoſt generally appeared.

THE firſt ſtep taken by the Percies, was the releaſe of the Scottiſh priſoners without ranſom.RELEASE THEIR PRISONERS. This gained the heart of Douglas; who went home, raiſed a body of men, and joined in the enterprize.

[334]SIR EDMUND MORTIMER,GLYNDWR SETS MORTIMER AT LIBERTY. from the time of his defeat, was treated with the utmoſt humanity and reſpect. Glyndwr, politically determined to make uſe of this important priſoner as an inſtrument of his ambition, reminded him of the right of his, houſe to the crown of England, and flattered him with the hopes of reſtoring it to the throne* of his anceſtors. The Percies, to whom he was allied, had made frequent inſtances to Henry for his ranſom, who, on falſe and injurious pretences, conſtantly refuſed attention to their requeſt; notwithſtanding, he never reſted till he had procured the enlargement of his favorite, lord Grey.

THE Percies now began to extend their views; and to form a confederacy that promiſed fair to effect another revolution. They entered into an alliance with Glyndwr; obtained the releaſe of Mortimer; and, like the famous triumvirate of Rome, determined to divide the empire between them.

THEIR place of meeting,CONSPIRACY OF THE PERCIES: the Mutina of theſe heroes, was at the houſe of David Daron, or of Aberdaron, dean of Bangor , ſon of Evan ap Dafydd ap Gryffydd, deſcended from Caradoc ap Jeſtyn, a prince of Wales. He was a man of intereſt and wealth; entered ſtrongly into their views; and in conſequence, in the year 1406, was outlawed for his attachment to them.

HERE the three chieftains formed the diviſion of Britain.UNITE WITH GLYNDWR.Sir Edmund Mortimer, in behalf of his nephew the earl of March, took all the country from the Trent and Seven to the eaſtern and ſouthern limits of the iſland; Northumberland was to have all the [335] counties north of the Trent; and Glyndwr every thing that lay beyond the Severn weſtward.

IT was on this occaſion that Owen, to animate his countrymen, called up the antient prophecy, which predicted the deſtruction of Henry, under the name of the Moldwarp, curſed of GOD'S own mouth. Himſelf he ſtyled the dragon; a name he aſſumed in imitatation of Uther, whoſe victories over the Saxons were foretold by the appearance of a ſtar with a dragon beneath; which Uther uſed as his badge; and on that account it became a favorite one with the Welſh. On Percy he beſtowed the title of lion, from the creſt of the family; on Mortimer, that of the wolf, probably from a ſimilar reaſon. And theſe three were to divide the realm between them.

GLYNDWR was now in the meridian of his glory.CONCENTION OF THE ESTATES OF WALES. He aſſembled the eſtates of Wales at Machynlleth, a town of Montgomeryſhire: he cauſed there his title to the principality to be acknowleged, and was formally crowned.

AT this meeting he narrowly eſcaped aſſaſſination.DAVID GAM CONSPIRES AGAINST OWEN. Among the chieftains, who appeared to ſupport his title, came a gentleman of Brecknockſhire, David Gam, or the one-eyed; a man, ſays Mr. Carte *, who held his eſtate of the honor of Hereford, who had long been in the ſervice of Bolingbrook, and was firmly attached to his intereſt. Notwithſtanding he had married a ſiſter of Glyndwr, yet ſuch a furious hatred had he conceived to his cauſe, that he appeared at the aſſembly with the ſecret and treacherous reſolution of murdering his prince and brother-in-law. [336] Carte ſays, that he was inſtigated to it by Henry; but gives no authority for his aſſertion. Party-zeal, or hopes of reward, probably determined him to ſo nefarious a deed, He was a fit inſtrument for the purpoſe: a man of unſhaken courage; which was afterwards put to the proof in the following reign, at the battle of Azincourt. This was the gentleman who was ſent to explore the numbers of the enemy before the action; and who informed the king, that there were enough to kill, enough to be taken priſoners, and enough to run away. In the battle, David, his ſon-in-law Roger Vychan, and his relation Waltar Llwyd, reſcued the king, when environed with his foes. They ſaved his life at the expence of their own, and fell with many mortal wounds. The king, after the victory, approached the place where they lay weltering in their blood; and, in the moment of death, beſtowed on them the only reward of their valor which he could confer in that ſad time, the honor of knighthood.

BUT to return to the ſubject immediately under conſideration.DETECTED The plot of David againſt Glyndwr was diſcovered. He was arreſted and impriſoned; and would have met with his merited puniſhment, if he had not been ſaved by the interceſſion of Owen's beſt friends and warmeſt partizans*. He was pardoned on a ſolemn promiſe of attachment to the cauſe of Glyndwr and his country. It appears, that our chieftain did not chuſe to rely on his promiſe; but kept him in cloſe confinement till the year 1412, as will appear in the tranſaction of that period.

[337]GLYNDWR, as uſual, wreaked his vengeance on the lands and dependents of Dafydd Gam; entered his country, and burnt his houſe; and, while it was burning, calling one of David's tenants, ſpoke thus merrily to him in verſe; which ſhews the general turn of our people to the rhyming art:

O gweli di wr coch Cam
Yn ymofyn y Gyrnigwen:
Dywed ei bod hi tan y lan
A nôd y glo ar ei phen.

1403.

PREPARATIONS were made with great vigor by all parties.HOTSPUR MARCHES TO SHREWSBURY. Hotſpur, leaving his father ill at Berwick, marched with his forces from the north; and, paſſing through Cheſhire, a county ever affectionate to Richard, was joined there by a numerous party. Percy ſent to Owen, to deſire he would meet him; but our countryman declined to comply: howſoever, numbers of the Welſh joined Hotſpur, and marched with him to Lichfield, carrying the ſtag, the badge of the late king, as a party diſtinction. In that city he publiſhed his reaſons for taking arms againſt Henry, whom the family had ſo lately placed on the throne*. From hence he led his army towards Shrewſhury; probably becauſe he found himſelf too weak to attack the uſurper; for it ſeems as if his intention had been to have met him on his march, had Glyndwr joined him with his whole force. Glyndwr, on the other hand, had formed a conſiderable [338] army in Wales; and Sir Edmund Mortimer had raiſed the vaſſals of his nephew.

IN the month of March, Henry gave a ſtrong proof of the high opinion he had of his ſon Henry of Monmouth, afterwards king of England, at this time only fifteen years of age; for by writ, dated from Weſtminſter the 7th of that month, he appoints him his lieutenant for Wales * and all the adjacent counties, with full powers to raiſe men, and to act againſt the inſurgents as he ſhould think proper: to enquire into all treaſons; to examine who ſupplied the rebels with arms or proviſions; and to grant pardon to all who would lay down their arms, and give ſecurity for their peaceful behaviour.

HAVING thus provided, as he imagined, for the ſecurity of the borders of England on the ſide of Wales, he began to conſider of his march againſt the Percies. But hearing that Glyndwr , by reaſon of want of proviſions, was preparing to make an inroad into the borders, iſſued orders from Weſtminſter, dated June 12th, to the lieutenant of Glouceſterſhire , to prepare to repel the invaſion, with forces he ſhould aſſemble for that purpoſe. Henry then made a moſt expeditious march to Burton upon Trent, where we find him on the 16th, on his way againſt the northern rebels§.HENRY GOES TO MEET HIM. Here he underſtood that Percy, with his army, had advanced towards Shrewſhury, and was preparing to effect a junction with the forces of Glyndwr and Mortimer. He well knew the importance of preventing it from taking place; [339] and directed his march towards that town, as is ſaid, by the advice of the earl of Dunbar, a Scottiſh nobleman, who had eſpouſed his cauſe. The diſpatch with which the king executed this reſolution, ſaved his crown. Glyndwr, who had aſſembled his forces at Oſweſtry, had ſent off only his firſt diviſion, amounting to four thouſand men, who behaved with ſpirit in the day of action*; in which fell his brother-in-law Sir Jenkin Hanmer . Henry prevented him from proceeding with the reſt, by poſting himſelf between Glyndwr and Shrewſbury, and at the critical time that the northern rebels were about to ſcale the walls. Percy quitted the attempt; and, after rejecting the offer of peace, attacked the royal army at Battlefield, three miles from the place.PERCY DEFBATED AND SLAIN. He behaved with the ſpirit worthy of his name; fell valiantly, and with him the hopes of his party. This action happened on the 21ſt of June. Glyndwr had the mortification of being obliged to remain all the time inactive, at the head of twelve thouſand men, at Oſweſtry. GLYNDWR CONTINUES AT OSWESTRY. The Welſh hiſtorians paſs an unjuſt cenſure on him for his conduct on this occaſion, and blame him for what, it ſeems, he could not effect. His great overſight appears to me to have been the neglect of attacking Henry immediately after the battle, when the royal forces had ſuſtained a vaſt loſs, and were overcome with fatigue; when his own followers, and the remains of the northern troops, would have formed an army nearly double to that of the king; when Northumberland, now recovered from his illneſs, was in full march towards him, the army of Mortimer entire, that of the king [340] conſtrained to go northward. Glyndwr carried on a marauding war, and plundered the now defenceleſs marches. The king returned ſucceſsful from the north to the borders of Wales, determined to chaſtiſe the inſurgents; but was obliged to deſiſt from his enterprize, for want of money to pay his troops, and proviſions to ſubſiſt them. He did propoſe to remedy the firſt, by ſeizing on the ſuperfluous wealth of the prelates; but was prevented by the ſpirit of the archbiſhop of Canterbury, who boldly declared, that none of his province ſhould be ſpoiled on any account; which fruſtrated Henry's intent on Glyndwr. The prelate was afterwards better adviſed, and made a grant of the tenth towards the king's neceſſary charges*

NOTHING more was done this year than the ſecuring the Welſh caſtles,HANRY SECURES THE WELEN CASTLES. and placing over them perſons of known fidelity. The king dates his writ from Worceſter, the 8th of September; and, addreſſing it to Guy Mohun biſhop of St. David, at that time keeper of the privy-ſeal, and treaſurer of England, commits to him the cuſtody of the caſtle of Llangadyn; that of Llanyndovery to John Touchet lord Audley; Laghern to Sir Henry le Scrope; Crickhowel to John Pauncefort; Tretour to James Berkley; Ahergavenny and Harald Ewyas to Sir William Beauchamp; Goderych to Sir Thomas Nevil de Furnivale; Erdeſley to Sir Nicholas Montgomery; Carleon and Uſk to Sir Edward Charlton of Powys; Caerph [...]lli and Gwialacy to Conſtantia lady Deſpenſer; Menerbere to Sir John Cornwall; Payne Caſtle and Royl to Thomas earl of Warwick; Huntyngdon to Anne counteſs of Stafford; Lynhales and Dorſton to [341] Sir Walter Fitz-Walter; Stepulton to John Brian baron of Burſord; Brawpton to Brian de Brampton; and to Sir John Chandos the caſtle of Snowdon*.

THE laſt public act relating to the inſurrections of die marches, was to empower the prince of Wales to treat with certain Cheſhire gentlemen about their fines, for appearing in arms in the battle of Shrowſhury.

ON the 14th and 15th of the ſame month, he gives power to William Beauchamp to pardon certain of the vaſſals on his lands of Abergavenny and Ewyas Harald, who had appeared in arms in behalf of Glyndwr; and to the famous Sir John Oldcaſtle, John ap Henry, and John Fairſord, clerk, to pardon the inhabitants of Brecknock, Built, Cancreſſelly, Hay, Glynbough, and Dynas; to receive their weapons; and to oblige them to take an oath of fidelity. In this the king only ſecures their perſons, but reſerves to himſelf their forfeited lands, goods, and chattels. The firſt is dated from Hereford; the other from Devenok .

1404.

NOTWITHSTANDING the French king had conſented,CONDUCT OF THE FRENCH. through the neceſſity of his own affairs, to a truce of thirty years with Henry, yet he never could be brought to acknowlege his title to the crown. In his treaties, Charles ſtyles him only notre couſin d'Angleterre , or Henry of Lancaſter, or our adverſary of England, or the ſucceſſor of the late king Richard §. There is all the appearance of a correſpondence between Charles and the Engliſh and [342] Welſh inſurgents in the laſt year; and that the expedition towards Shrewſhury, and an invaſion of England by the French, were concerted, to diſtract the attention of Henry. Their fleets hovered over our coaſts under other pretences. They even landed in the iſle of Wight, and did conſiderable damage to the country.

AN open war was daily expected with France. The parlement took the ſafety of the king's perſon into conſideration. His houſhold was regulated; and in particular, it was ordered, that no Frenchman or Welſhman ſhould remain about his majeſty's perſon*.

THE wiſdom of this proviſion ſoon became very apparent.GLYNDWR SENDS EMBASSADORS TO CHARLES VII. A league, offenſive and defenſive, was formed between Charles and Owen. Owen ſent his chancellor Griffith Yonge, doctor of laws, and his kinſman John Hanmer, embaſſadors to the French. Their appointment is dated from Dolgellu, in a princely ſtyle: Datum apud Doleguelii, 10 die menſis Maii, MCCCC. quarto et principalus noſtri quarto; and begins, OWINUS Dei gratia princeps WALLIAe, &c.

CHARLES received them with open arms. The league was ſigned at Paris on the 14th of June. The perſons that acted on the part of Charles were James Bourbon earl of March, and John biſhop of Carnot.LEAGUE CONCLUDED BETWEEN THEM.Owen's ambaſſadors ſigned their part on the 14th of July, in the houſe of Ferdinand de Corbey, chancellor of France; ſeveral prelates and perſons of high rank attending as [343] witneſſes*. Glyndwr ratified this treaty on the 12th of. [...] 1405, from his caſtle of Lampadarn .

THE affairs of Glyndwr bore ſo proſperous an aſpect, that about this time Trovor biſhop of St. Aſaph revolted from Henry, and joined with his countryman; whether actuated by remorſe for his dealings with his old maſter, or tempted by the hopes of preferment under a new government, is not evident.

OWEN opened the campaign of this year with vigor. He laid waſte the country of his enemies; took ſeveral caſtles,GLYNDWR RETEATS BEFORE THE ENGLISH: among others, thoſe of Harlech and Aheryſtwyth. Some he diſmantled, and others he reſerved, and garriſoned. He then directed his march into Montgomeryſhire, and fell in with an Engliſh army at Mynydd cwm du. They attacked him, ſlew many of his men, and obliged him to retreat. He ſoon repaired this diſgrace; for, collecting his forces again, he purſued the victors with ſuch expedition,DEFEATS THEM. that he overtook them at a place called Craig y Dorth, near Monmouth; defeated, and purſued them to the very gates of every town or caſtle they had fled to.

THE Engliſh hiſtorians mention the defeat of Glyndwr. They inform us, that the Engliſh army was commanded by Richard Beauchamp earl of Warwick, who took the banner of Glyndwr ; but are ſilent in reſpect of the revenge that ſo immediately followed. The king undertook nothing this year againſt Glyndwr. Beauchamp had large poſſeſſions in the county of Monmouth, and found it requiſite to raiſe his vaſſals to preſerve his country from deſolation.

[344]1405.

THIS year opened with an attempt of a very extraordinary nature; nothing leſs than to free from their confinement the young earl of March and his brother,ATTEMPTS TO STEAL AWAY THE EARE OF MARCH. with the intent of ſetting up the title of the firſt firſt that of Henry, and to involve the whole kingdom in his quarrel. There were many engaged in the deſign. Wales was to have been his aſylum, and Glyndwr his protector: ſuch deep intelligence had he with the diſſaffected, even near the ſeat of the court. March was kept in cloſe cuſtody at Windſor, a royal reſidence, amidſt guards, and ſecured by every precaution that a jealous uſurper could invent. Notwithſtanding, a plot was laid. Conſtance lady Spencer, widow to lord Spencer, and ſiſter to the duke of York, contrived their deliverance. She procured falſe keys, ſtole away the two youths, and was haſtening with them towards Wales, when they were ſeized and brought back. The lady was impriſoned. A ſeverer fate attended the poor ſmith that made the keys, who was beheaded, after having both his hands chopped off*.

FORTUNE now began to frown upon Glyndwr. The firſt experience he had of her mutability was on the 11th of March: BATTLE OF USKE; a body of his partizans, to the amount of eight thouſand, had aſſembled out of Glamorganſhire, Uſke, Netherwent, and Overwent. As uſual, they began their march with deſolating the country; and burnt part of the town of Groſmont, in the county of Monmouth. Henry prince of Wales was at that time at Hereſord, with the army entruſted to him by his father, [345] ready to open the campaign. He there received an account of the defeat of theſe malecontents, by a handful of men commanded by Sir Gilbert Talbot, joined by Sir William Newport and Sir John Greindre. He tranſmitted the account to his father, in a letter written in an uncommon ſtrain of piety and dutifulneſs, contradictory to the popular opinion of his early licentiouſneſs; for at that time he was only ſeventeen years of age. He begins with imploring Heaven for its favor towards his father: Je ſupplie vraiement que DIEU vous montre graciouſment pour vous ſon miracle on toutes parties, loez ſoit il en toutes ſes ocures.—Il eſt bien voirs, que la victoire n'eſt pas en le multitude de people mes en la puiſſance de DIEU.

IT ſeems that the Welſh forgot the antient ſpirit of their country; and yielded an eaſy victory to the enemy. Eight hundred or a thouſand were ſtain. No quarter was given on the occaſion, except to one perſon, un grant chiefteyn entre eulx. The humanity of young Henry appears to great advantage on this affair. He tells his father, that he would have ſent the priſoner to him, but that he could not yet ride with any eaſe (I ſuppoſe on account of his wounds) mes il ne poet chivacher uncore a ſon aiſe *.

To repair this diſaſter, Glyndwr inſtantly ſent one of his ſons with another army. They probably were reinforced by the fugitives from the laſt action.OF PWLL MELYN. Another battle was fought on the fifteenth of the ſame month, at Mynydd y Pwll Melyn in Brecknockſhire, again fatal to the cauſe of Owen. Fifteen hundred [346] of his men were ſlain or taken priſoners: among the laſt was his ſon; among the firſt his brother Tudor, who reſembled Glyndwr ſo greatly, that a report was ſpread of his death, to the great dejection of his countrymen: but, on examining the dead body, it was found to want a wart over the eye, which diſtinguiſhed our chieftain from his brother. According to Carte *, young Henry commanded at this battle.

HOLINSHED mentions another defeat which the Welſh ſuſtained in the month of May, in which Gryffydd Yonge, Owen''s chancellor, was made priſoner. I ſuſpect that the hiſtorian confounds this action with that near Groſmont; but that the chancellor was the great chieftain there made priſoner, muſt be a miſtake; for we find him witneſs, the next year, to a pardon granted by Owen to one Jeven Gôch.

AFTER theſe defeats, all Glamorganſhire ſubmitted to the king, a few faithful friends only excepted; who, on diſcovering that Owen was alive, fled and joined him. It was at this time that he ſuffered thoſe diſtreſſes which the Engliſh attribute to the latter part of his life. During this diſperſion of his friends, he was obliged to ſeek protection from a few truſty partizans; and often to conceal himſelf in caves and deſert places. A cavern near the ſea-ſide, in the pariſh of Llangelynin, in the county of Merioneth, is ſtill called Ogof Owain, in which he was ſecretly ſupported by Ednyfed ap Aaron, of the tribe of Ednowain ap Bradwen.

THE bard Jolo Gôch deplores his abſence; and calls him home from different parts of the globe, to re-poſſeſs himſelf of [347] his principality. He in one place ſuppoſes him to be at Rome, and entreats him to return laden with tokens from St. Peter.

ABOUT this time the earl of Northumberland began another conſpiracy; which was detected, and ſeveral of his adherents were executed. Among others, one Sir John Griffith, a Welſh knight; which makes it probable, that the earl and Glyndwr ſtill acted in concert. The king, by his activity, quickly fruſtrated this plot; ſeized on the earl's caſtles, and obliged him to fly into Scotland for protection. With him fled the biſhops of St. Aſaph and Bangor *, and the abbot of Welbeck. The two firſt were probably placed by Glyndwr about the earl, to conſult the proper meaſures for the ſucceſsful execution of their deſigns.

HENRY then returned,HENRY MARCHRS AGAIN INTO WALES and marched into Wales with an army of 37,000 men. The ſame ill-fortune attended him in this as in former expeditions. The weather proved ſo bad, that he was obliged to make a haſty retreat to Worceſter, aggravated with the loſs of fifty of his carriages. Shakeſpear makes our chieftain thus vaunt the frequent defeats of his antagoniſt, even before the battle of Shrewſhury:

Three times hath Henry Bolingbreke made head
Againſt my pow'r; thrice from the banks of Wye,
And ſandy-bottom'd Severn, have I ſent
Him bootleſs home, and weather-beaten bask.

[348]NOTWITHSTANDING the ill ſucceſs of the king, the affairs of Owen would, in all probability, have found a ſad change, had not, at this very period, his ally Charles VI.FEENCH ASSIST OWEK. ſent him a moſt ſeaſonable aſſiſtance; which, for a conſiderable time, prolonged the war, and delayed his total ruin. A conſiderable armament was made in the ports of France. It was planned by the duke of Orleans *, regent of France during the inſanity of Charles. The invaſion was to have taken place the preceding year; and (as Rapin obſerves) ſeems to have been intended to coincide with the inſurrection of Scroope archbiſhop of York, and other noblemen in the north. Their attempt proved fatal to them. But the ſleet, conſiſting of a hundred and forty ſhips, ſailed from Breſt the latter end of June, with an army of twelve thouſand [...]. According to the hiſtorian of this reign, Mademoiſelle de Laſſan , there were among them eight hundred men at arms, ſix hundred croſs-bows, and twelve hundred foot-ſoldiers, all choſen troops.

OUR hiſtorians ſay, that they were commanded by the Marechal de Montmorency; but I cannot diſcover that any of that great houſs was engaged in the expedition. The fleet was under the command of Renaud de Trie, lord of Seriſontaine, admiral of France; the land, forces under that of Jean de Rieux, lord of Rieux and Rochſort, Marſhal of France. Under him ſerved Jean, or, as Moreri calls him, Aubert de Hangeſt Sire de Hugueville, maſter or the croſs-bows; and who, by reaſon of the age and infirmities [349] of Ricux, ſeems to have been the acting general. According to the genius of the nation, the officers made the moſt brilliant appearance; and Hugueville actually ſold to the church of Paris his fine eſtate of Agencourt near Mondidier, in order to furniſh himſelf with a magnificent equipage*.

THE ſleet had a very favorable paſſage; but, by neglect of providing ſufficient quantity of freſh water, moſt of the horſes periſhed.LANDIN WALES. According to the beſt authority, the forces landed, under the command of Hugueville, in Milſord Haven. He immediately marched towards Caermarthen, which he beſieged and look by capitulation. The garriſon were ſuffered to depart, and had liberty to take their effects with them.

HE declined making any attempt on Pembroke, by reaſon of the ſtrength of the caſtle; but ſat down before Haverſord-weſt: where the earl of Arundel made ſo gallant a defence, that the French were obliged to raiſe the ſiege with conſiderable loſs. Glyndwr had, by this time, reached Tenbigh with ten thouſand men, where he was joined by Hugueville. As ſoon as the neceſſary preparations were finiſhed, they marched through Glamorganſhire, reached Worceſter, and burnt the ſuburbs, and ravaged the country round§.

As ſoon as Henry heard of the intended invaſion, he iſſued out a proclamation, dated from Weſtminſter, July 2d; in which he directs the lieutenants of ſeveral counties to raiſe forces to repel the foe. Lord Berkley, and Henry Pay admiral of the [350] cinque ports, commanded at ſea, and burnt, according to our accounts, fifteen of the French ſhips as they lay at anchor in Milford Haven; and afterwards (joined by Sir Thomas Swinborn) took fourteen more in their paſſage to Wales, laden with ammunition and proviſions for the army*. Madamoiſelle de LUSSAN takes notice of the firſt; but candidly confeſſes, that the French were ſo terrified with the appearance of thirty ſail of our ſhips, that they themſelves directed the deſtruction of theſe veſſels.

IN the beginning of Auguſt, Henry received advice that the French were landed; and again ſends out a proclamation, dated from Ponteſract, Auguſt 7th, addreſſed to the lieutenant of the county of Hereford, with orders to raiſe without delay his forces, and repair with them to the city of Hereford. It is in this proclamation he expreſsly calls the French general, lord of Huguevilie.

HENRY marched in perſon to oppoſe an enemy now grown ſo very formidable;HENRY MARCHES AGAISST THEM but Hugueville, after plundering the country, on the king's approach, made a ſudden retreat, and poſted himſelf on a high hill, about three leagues from Worceſter, with a deep valley between his and the royal army. Each endeavored to bring the enemy to make the attack; and for eight days they reſpectively preſented themſelves in order of battle, and ſo continued from morning till night; but neither party ventured to deſcend from its advantageous ſituation. During this time, there [351] were ſeveral ſkirmiſhes. The loſs on both ſides was about two hundred, beſides numbers wounded. The French loſt Patrouillart de Trie, lord of Mouci and Pleſſis, chamberlain to the king, and brother to the admiral; a gallant officer, whoſe fate was much lamented by the army **. There fell that day alſo the lord of Martelonne, and the lord of La Valle; and, as Hall ſays, the baſtard of Bourbon. Our hiſtorians ſeetn to exaggerate their loſs, adding to it that of five hundred other gentlemen; but Monſtrelet aſſerts, that on a review of the French troops, when they returned home, only ſixty were found miſſing.

THE camp that Owen is ſuppoſed to have poſſeſſed, is on Wobury hill, in the pariſh of Whittley, exactly nine miles north-weſt of Worceſter, It is ſurrounded with a ſingle foſs; and contains near twenty-ſeven acres. It probably had been an antient Britiſh poſt; but was extremely convenient for Glyndwr, not only by reaſon of its ſtrength, but, as Wales lay open to him, he had it in his power to retreat among the mountains whenever he found it neceſſary. I never had an opportunity of examining the nature of the ground, and how far it ſuits the deſcription given by Monſtrelet; but the public will have their curioſity amply gratified by the pen of my friend Dr. NASH, now employed in forming the hiſtory of his native county.

HENRY acted the part of a prudent general, by cutting off the means of every ſupply from the enemy; who, worn with famine and fatigue, in the midnight of the eighth day decamped [352] with the utmoſt ſecrecy, and retired into Wales *. Monſtrelet makes the king quit his ſtation firſt, and return the ſame night to Worceſter; and adds, that the French attacked him in his retreat, and took from him eighteen waggons loaden with proviſions. Hall, on the contrary, aſſures us, that Henry ‘chaſed the enemy from hilles to dales, from dales to woddes, from woddes to mariſhes, and yet could never have them at any advantage. A worlde it was to ſee his quotidiane removyng; his paynfull and buſy wanderyng, his troubleſome and uncertayne abidyng, his continual mocion, his daily peregrinacion in the deſert felles and craggy mountains of that barreine, unfertile, and depopulate countrey.’ In the end, the king, unable any longer to ſubſi [...] his army in a country which Glyndwr had expreſsly deſtroyed to dutreſs his enemy, was obliged to deſiſt from his purſuit, and to return to Werceſter; and, as Hall owns, in his retreat, loſt ‘certayn cariages laden with vitayle, to his great diſpleaſure, and to the great comforte of the Welſh.

I MUST enquire when Henry had leiſure for ſo long and tedioas a campaign;TIME OF THIS CAMPAIGN. for I find him the 22d of Auguſt at Ponteſrad, the 27th at Worceſter, and the 4th of September at Hereſord. In four days from that time, it appears he was at Faxflete.

AT Beverley, the 13th of the ſame month. At Biſhopthorp in the ſame county from the 16th to the 21ſt; the next day at Cawoed. After which there is an unaccounted gap of time, till he appears again at Worceſter the 6th of October. I am thus minute, to ſhew that Henry poſſeſſed a ſtrength of body equal [353] to his activity of mind; otherwiſe he never could have ſlown with that rapidity from place to place, nor have guarded againſt enemies ſo remote as the Scots and Welſh, at nearly the ſame period.

IT ſeems as if all his forces deſtined to oppoſe the laſt, were arrived at their places of rendezvous before the 6th of October. * From that time he was in all probability engaged in this expedition; Hall aſſigning (among other reaſons for the king's deſiſting from his enterprize) the approach of winter, which rendered a campaign amidſt the mountains highly unſafe. Accordingly we find him at Dunſtable, on his road to London, the 3d of November , and at his palace at Weſtminſter ſoon after.

THE French, after their ſlight, never made any farther attempt. Glyndwr placed them in quarters, where they remained till they quitted the kingdom; when he furniſhed the greater part with veſſels to tranſport them to France. FRENCH QUIT WALES Fifteen hundred remained in Wales till the March following, when they were carried home by a perſon ſtyled by de Luſſan, Le Begue de Volay |

AFTER the defeat of Gryſſydd ſon of Glyndwr, by Henry prince of Wales, that youthful warrior undertook the ſiege of Llanbedr caſtle, in the county of Cardigan. SIEGE OF LLANBEDR CASTLE. After ſome time, the governor placed there by Glyndwr agreed to give it up, in caſe it was not relieved between the 24th of October and the feaſt of All Saints. He was to ſurrender it in good condition; not to injure the habitations in the town, nor ſeize any ſhips that ſhould be [354] driven into the port by diſtreſs of weather: that he ſhould have free pardon, and have liberty, at the end of the term, to depart with all his effects, and thoſe of his friends. I obſerve, among the inſtruments of war which were to be delivered up, were canones, Anglicè gunnes; which had been invented by the French about twenty-ſix years before this period. He took the ſacrament in witneſs of his ſincerity, and delivered hoſtages for the performance of his agreement. He probably relied on the aſſiſtance of the French for relief. Henry apprehended the ſame. But, in order to fruſtrate any attempts of that kind, he iſſued out a writ, dated from Cawood the 22d of September, to the lieutenants of Devonſhire, and of other counties, to raiſe their forces, and to rendezvous at Eveſham on the 10th of October *. This caution took effect ſo far, as to oblige Rees ap Gryffydd ap Shenkin, alias Rees ap Llewelyn, to agree to the terms propoſed; but ſeemingly without any deſign of preſerving them; for, no ſooner was the prince departed, than Rees permitted Glyndwr to turn him and his garriſon out, under pretence that they had been guilty of treaſon in ſubmitting without his conſent.

I MUST conclude the tranſactions of this year, with remarking the ſolicitude of the lords and commons about the relief of the lord of Coitie, SIEGE OF COITIE CASTLE BY GLYN [...]WR. then beſieged in the caſtle of the ſame name, ſeated near the river Ogmore in Glamorganſhire. Henry was little concerned about his fate; but ſeveral prelates and perſons of rank in both houſes offered a loan, for the purpoſe of raiſing forces for his reſcue. At length it was agreed by king and parlement, [355] that thoſe loans ſhould be repaid out of the firſt payments of the ſubſidy at that time granted*.

1406.

FROM the latter end of laſt year, the affairs of Glyndwr began to decline. He had ſtill ſtrength ſufficient to keep within his mountanous territories; but was too weak to meditate any thing more than marauding invaſions.FRENCH SEND MORE FORCES The French continued to give him ſome aſſiſtance. They ſent a ſleet of thirty-eight ſail. I imagine, from the ſmall number, that they were wearied of their ally; yet were willing to keep up, for their own intereſt, the ſpirit of the inſurgents. Eight of theſe ſhips, laden with men at arms, were taken; the reſt eſcaped in great confuſion to Wales .

ABOUT this time Owen was conſiderably weakened by the defection of the inhabitants of Yſtrad Tywy.

THE preſence of that brave and active prince Henry of Monmouth, who at the expreſs requeſt of parlement reſided in ſome part of Wales, was no ſmall check on the enterprizing temper of Glyndwr, nor a leſs terror to the Welſh, who had felt the force of his arms. At the ſame time, parlement, ſenſible of the folly of the premature grants before made of the eſtates of the inſurgents, entered on record, that no heritages conquered from the Welſh, be given away till one quarter of an year after|: [356] ſo precarious ſeemed the tenure, even in the declining ſtate of our chieſtain. I may remark, that he ſtill had ſtrength enough to give protection to the Engliſh fugitives. The great earl of Northumberland, and lord Bardelſ, found here a hoſpitable aſylum, after the S [...]ts, to whom they had entruſted themſelves, meditated the giving of them up to Henry, in exchange for certain priſoners. Sir David Fleming of Cumbernauld generouſly warned them of the intentions of his countrymen; who in revenge took away his life*.

BEFORE the expiration of this year, Henry made a grant in fee to Sir John Tibetot, ſpeaker of the houſe of commons, and father to the accompliſhed peer John earl of Worceſter, of the eſtates of Richard ap Gryffydd ap Vychan, in the counties of Caermarthen and Cardigan, forfeited by his adherence to the party of Glyndwr .

GLYNDWR again was not behind hand in acts of regal power;GLYNDWR CRANTS A PARDON. for about this he grants a pardon to one John ap H [...]d ap Jevan gôch; anno principatus noſtri VI* datum apud Kevn Llanvair X die Jon per ipſum principem. On the ſeal was the portrait of Owen ſeated in a chair, holding a ſceptre in his right hand, and a globe in the left.

IT is obſervable, that among the witneſſes are Gryffydd his eldeſt ſon, and Gryffydd yonge his chancellor; both of whom, the Engliſh hiſtorians ſay, were made priſoners, and ſent to the Tower. As Henry ſhewed no mercy to the partizans of Owen, it is [...] probable that theſe two would have eſcaped his rage, had [...] [357] ever been in his power. The other two witneſſes are Meredith, another of his ſons, and Rhys ap Tudur, and Gwillim ap ******.

NOTWITHSTANDING this oſtentation of regal power,HIS AFFAIRS DECLINE. the affairs of Glyndwr evidently declined. The garriſons placed in moſt of the different fortreſſes of North Wales had kept the maritime parts from riſing in any numbers in his favor. In the iſland of Augleſca, he ſeems to have had a very ſtrong party. It does not appear that there ever was any battle in that iſland. It is my opinion, that the partizans of Owen had paſſed the Menai, and, while their zeal was warm, had joined his army; and, like the cuſtom in all feudal times, returned to their homes when wearied with the campaign, or ſatiated with plunder.

BY the latter end of this year, they had ſubmitted to the royal authority: for I find, from a tranſcript of a manuſcript found among the papers of the learned EDWARD LLWYD of the Muſaeum, this particular:

‘IN an inquiſition taken at Beaumaris, upon Tueſday, the day next before the feaſt of St. Martin the biſhop, (which is the 11th of November) in the 8th year of king Henry IV. anno Domini 1406, before Thomas Twkhwl, Philip de Mainwaring, and Robert Paris the younger, commiſſioners, by virtue of a commiſſion from prince Henry, ſon and heir apparent of the king, prince of Wales, duke of Acquitaine, Lancaſter, and Cornwall, and earl of Cheſter, unto them, or any two of them, directed, were indicted, preſented, and fined, the ſeveral perſons and inhabitants of the iſle of Angleſea, ANGLESEA FINED BY THE KING. whoſe names are hereunder written, for being in arms and rebellion with Owen Glyndyſrdwy and others.’

[358]I REFER the reader for the particular of their names to the Appendix. I only ſhall obſerve here the Cwmmwds, the numbers of perſons fined in each, and the ſum total of them and the fines.

  £.s.d.
In Llivon411100188
Menai30865108
Talybalion399123164
Twrkelyn2798358
Malltracth32683160
Tindaethvy38979198
 211253770

I MUST obſerve, that the greateſt of the fines is £. 8. 3 s. 4 d. and the leſt, 2 s. and that two prieſts are fined five pounds each, I ſuppoſe, for miſleading their flocks. Several perſons are outlawed, and the goods of thoſe ſlain in battle forfeited to the king, according to the following valuation:

 £.s.d.
A horſe020
mare014
cow018
ſteer or heifer010
 £.s.d.
A yearling calf004
ſheep004
cronnach of wheat034
ditto oats020

[359]1407.

HISTORY furniſhes us with very few materials reſpecting the tranſactions of this year. They were probably few and unimportant. Owen had loſt the fortreſſes of Llanbedr * (which was ſoon retaken) and that of Harlech. He was conſined to the hills, and ſeems never to have quitted his faſtneſſes but to make a praedatory war. The earl or Northumberland and lord Bardolſ, about this time, apprehending that Owen was too weak to protect them, quitted Wales, and ſoon after loſt their lives in a deſperate effort to reſtore their cauſe, on Bramham-moor in Yorkſhire.

1408.

IN this year I diſcover nothing relative to the Welſh affairs, farther than a due compliment paid to the prince of Wales by the commons; who, by their ſpeaker, deſired the king to give public thanks to young Henry for his great fatigue and good conduct in Wales; for which both king and prince returned their compliments again to the commons.

1409.

IN this year Glyndwr again began to make head.MAKES HEAD AGAIN. By himſelf, or his partizans, he made great devaſtations on the marches, and in thoſe parts of Wales that were well affected to the Engliſh government. The eſtates of Edward de Charlion lord [360] Powys ſuffered gre [...]ly. Henry therefore directs a write to [...] nobleman to raiſs his ſorces and ſupp [...]ſ, in the moſt [...], manner, this new diſturbance, [...]ded, as it appears, by [...] himſelf and the biſhop of St. [...]. Lord Pouys [...] the ſame time inſtructed not to quit the country, but to [...] all his caſtles garriſoned, and not to permit any of his [...] to be deſerted. This is dated from Weſtminiſter the [...] of May *.

LIKE orders were iſſued to Edward duke of York, Th [...]s [...] of Arundel, Richard earl of Warwick, Reginald lord Grey, [...]xſtantia lady Deſpenſer, (who had now made her peace with the crow [...] [...] Court, and William Beauchamp.

THIS activity proved fatal to Rhys Ddu and Philip [...], two of Owen's beſt officers, whom he had ſent into Sh [...], where they committed great exceſſes. They were both made priſoners, ſent to London, and executed. Caxton relates, that Rhys was taken before the juſtices, condemned, and drawn on a hurdle through the city to Tyburn, where he ſuffered the death of a traitor. His quarters were ſent to four other cities; his head placed on London bridge.

ON the 18th of November, in this year, Henry iſſued out an order to the conſtable of Windſor caſtle, to deliver to Sir William Liſte knight, marſhal of England, the following Welſh priſoners:

  • Howel ap Jevan ap Howell.
  • Walther ap Jevan Vechan.
  • Rys ap Jevan ap Rys.
  • Jevan Goch ap Morgan.
  • David ap Tudor.
  • Rys ap Meredyd.
  • Madoc Bery.
  • Jenkin Backer.
  • David ap Cad.
  • Thomam Dayler *.

AFTER this follows a warrant to Sir William to receive them. I imagine, that all theſe gentlemen were delivered to the marſhal for execution; who, by his commiſſion, ſeems to have been expreſsly appointed for that purpoſe; certis de cauſis ad ea omnia et ſingula quae ad officium Mareſcalli Angliae pertinent exercenda per litteras noſtras patentes quam diu nobis placuerit, duraturas deputavimus.

TOWARDS the latter end of the year, ſeveral of the officers of the lords marchers, either through diſlike to the war, or for the ſake of preſerving their country from the fury of the Welſh, of their own authority formed a truce with Glyndwr and his partizans. This only ſerved to enable them to make their inroads on other parts with more ſecurity. Many of the loyal borderers were ſlain, and others plundered, in conſequence of theſe agreements. Henry was highly irritated, and immediately iſſued out writs to Thomas earl of Arundel, Sir Richard L'E-ſtrange lord of Knockyn, Elleſmere, and other borderirg manors, Edward Charlton lord Powys, and Reginald lord Grey of Ruthyn, and to the deputy-lieutenant of Hereſordſhire, directing them to [362] cauſe all ſuch illegal compacts to be reſcinded, and Glyndwr and his adherents to be purſued, and attacked with the utmoſt vigor.

FROM this period Owen never made any attempts worthy of hiſtoric notice. Numbers of his followers deſerted; which obliged him to confine himſelf to the hills, and to act entirely on the defenſive. Notwithſtanding his power was reduced, he was far from being ſubdued. The years 1410 and 1411 were paſſed without any memorable actions. The Engliſh were content with the eaſe they enjoyed by reſtraining the outrages of the mountaneers.Glyndwr maintained that extenſive tract that forms the Alps of our country, and kept his priſoners ſo ſecurely conſined, that even Henry, in 1412, was under the neceſſity of permitting (by writ*) his eſquire Llewelyn ap Hoel, father to the noted David Gam, to make uſe of Sir John Tiptoſte and William Botiller, to treat with Owen about the redemption of his ſon, who was kept forti et durâ priſonâ, or to endeavour to ſeize fome of Glyndwr's friends to exchange for Gam. TREATY. What the reſult of this affair was, does not appear. It ſerves, though, to diſprove the opinion, that David eſcaped to England after his infamous attempt in 1402; for which, as is now evident, he ſuffered a moſt fevere, but merited captivity of ten years, from which all the power of his Engliſh friends could not releaſe him.

THE priſon where Owen confined his captives was not far from his houſe,THE PRISON OF GLYNDWR. in the pariſh of Llanſanfraid Glyndwrdwy; and the place is to this day called Carchardy Owen Glyndwrdwy. Some [363] remains are ſtill to be ſeen near the church, which form part of a habitable houſe. It conſiſts of a room thirteen feet ſquare, and ten and a half high. The ſides conſiſt of three horizontal beams, with upright planks, not four inches aſunder, mortiſed into them. In theſe are grooves with holes in the bottom, as if there had been originally croſs-bars, or grates. The roof is exceedingly ſtrong, compoſed of ſtrong planks almoſt contiguous. It ſeems as if there had been two ſtories; but the upper part at preſent is evidently modern.

IT is ſingular, that the government did not take advantage of two Welſhmen of rank, whom they had this year in their power, and whom they might have made the price of the liberty of their partizan. Theſe were Rhys ap Tudur of Penmynydd in Angleſea, and his brother. Perhaps they were taken after the treaty had its effect; perhaps their crimes were too enormous for pardon: but whatſoever the caſe was, they were both conveyed to Cheſter, and there put to death.

I MUST not omit, that in 1410, Henry prince of Wales gave a free pardon to certain of his tenants in the comot of Coleſhill, in the county of Flint *, for the ſhare they had in what was ſtyled the rebellion of Glyndwr. That county was much divided in thoſe troubles. Howel Gwynedd, deſcended from Edwin lord of Tegengle, a valiant gentleman, who ſided with our chieftain, was in one of tire preceding years ſurpriſed by his enemies from the town of Flint. He probably was poſted within the trenches [364] of Moel y Gaer, in the pariſh of Northop; on which he was without proceſs, beheaded.

1413.

HENRY died in the beginning of this year;HENEY DIES. and left his youthful ſucceſſor ſo engaged in his preparations for the conqueſt of France, as to loſe ail thoughts of the entire ſubjection of his Britiſh dominions. Glyndwr remained ſtill inacceſſible; but was ſo cloſely guarded, as to ceaſe to be tremendous. The W [...]ſh who had ſubmitted, now began to indulge their revenge againſt ſuch of the Engliſh who had ſlain, or otherwiſe injured any of their relations or friends in the late war. This revenge was taken by various kinds of diſtreſs and impriſonment, till they had cleared themſelves by compurgation, or made ſome ſatiſfactory agreement. To remedy this, Henry the Vth, in his firſt year, aboliſhes* the Aſſach, or oath of 300 men, neceſſary, according to the cuſtom of Wales, to clear a perſon accuſed of any crime.ASSACH. Before that, an Engliſhman was liable to continue in jail for life, as it ſeems impoſſible for one of that hated nation to procure even a far leſs number of compurgators than this ſtrange law required for his acquittal. Henry made the attempt penal, and the proſecutor liable to an impriſonment of two years, to pay treble damages, and to pay beſide, a fine and ranſom before he could be releaſed.

[365]THIS was the laſt of the many laws enacted againſt the Welſh on occaſion of this inſurrection.SEVERE LAWS. They were certainly very ſevere; yet, perhaps, no more than what any government would have directed, againſt a people that had ſubmitted to conqueſt near a hundred and twenty years, and who were conſidered in no other light than that of rebellious ſubjects.

ON the firſt inſurrection, conciliatory methods were tried, and pardons offered. After experience of the little effect theſe had on the minds of the Welſh, every lenient ſtep was laid aſide, and laws of a very ſevere nature were put in force againſt them.

THE firſt was in the year 1400. It was found expedient to prevent, as much as poſſible, all intercourſe between the Welſh and Engliſh. The firſt were ſtrongly attached to the cauſe of Richard; the laſt had many ſecret favorers of that unhappy prince among them. There appeared much danger, if the former were permitted to ſtrengthen their intereſt in England: a coalition fatal to the new government was apprehended. As a preventative, it was enacted: That no perſon born on both ſides of Welſh parents ſhould purchaſe lands or tenements near any of the cities or towns on the marches of Wales, on pain of forfeiting them to the lord paramount where ſuch eſtates lay: That no Welſhman ſhould be received into any corporation town; or, if they had been ſettled in any ſuch before, they were to find ſecurity for their good and loyal behaviour; they were to be totally diſqualified from any civil office, and never allowed to carry any weapons.

IN caſe any Welſhman refuſed to reſtore to any Engliſhman the cattle, horſes, or the like, (which he had forcibly taken) within ſeven days, the Engliſhman was allowed to retaliate.

[366]So little truſt was there in juſtice from our countrymen, that it was enacted, that no Engliſhman ſhould be condemned at the ſuit of a Welſhman, unleſs by Engliſh juſtices, or Engliſh burgeſſes.

So greatly did the government apprehend the ſeduction of Engliſh loyalty by the charms of our countrywomen, that the Engliſh were prohibited from marrying with a Welſhwoman, under the pain of being diſqualified from holding any office in Wales.

IN 1402, there is a very particular ſtatute, intended to remedy the miſchiefs reſulting from ſome cuſtoms peculiar to Wales. This directs,KYMHORTHA. that nul weſtour, rymour, minſtrall, ne vagabond, ſoit aucunement ſuſtenuz en la terre de Gales, par faire kymorthas ou coillage ſur le commune poeple illoeqes. I cannot give a better tranſlation, than that in the obſervations on the antient ſtatutes, by my eſteemed friend the honorable DAINES BARRINGTON; which is to this purpoſe: THAT no hoſt*, rhymer, minſtrel, or other vagabond, ſhould preſume to aſſemble or collect together.

THE word kymhortha is miſ-ſpelt from the Welſh cymmorth, or the plural cymmorthau, aſſemblies of people to aſſiſt a neighbor in any work. Such are very frequently in uſe at preſent. There are cymmorthan for ſpinning; for works of huſbandry; for coal-carriage. But at this time, theſe meetings were mere pretences; and their end was the collecting a ſufficient number [367] of able-bodied men to make an inſurrection. Of ſuch a nature, in old times, were the hunting-matches in Scotland. The legiſlature in that part of Great Britain found the evils reſulting from them, and at length ſuppreſſed them by a law.

BUT cymhorthau of our countrymen were at this period of a moſt tremendous nature. They were compoſed of men the moſt dreaded by tyrants and uſurpers; of BARDS, who animated our nation, by recalling to mind the great exploits of our anceſtors, their ſtruggles for liberty, their ſucceſsful conteſts with the Saxon and Norman race for upwards of eight centuries. They rehearſed the cruelty of their antagoniſts, and did not forget the ſavage policy of the firſt Edward to their proſcribed brethren. They brought before their countrymen the remembrance of antient prophecies. They ſhewed to them the hero Glyndwr, deſcended from the antient race of our princes; and pronounced, that in him was to be expected the completion of every prediction of our oracular MERLIN. The band of minſtrels now ſtruck up; the harp, the crwth, and the pipe, filled the meaſure of enthuſiaſm which the others had begun to inſpire. They ruſhed to battle, fearleſs of events, like their great anceſtry, moved by the Druids ſongs; and ſcorned death, which conferred immortality in reward of their valor,

Inde ruendi
In ferrum mens prona viris, animaeque capaces
Mortis, et ignavum eſt rediturae parcere vitae.
LUCAN.

[368]
Hence they no cares for this frail being feel.
But ruſh undaunted on the pointed ſteel:
Provoke approaching fate, and bravely ſcorn
To ſpare that life which muſt ſo ſoon return.
ROWS.

WE find that Glyndwr maintained his ſituation for two year; longer. In 1415, his affairs bore ſo reſpectable an aſpect, that the king condeſcended to enter into a treaty with him; and for that purpoſe deputed, from the caſtle of Porcheſter *, Sir G [...]ocrt Talbot, with full powers to negotiate with Owen, and even to offer him and his followers a free pardon, in caſe they ſliould requeſt it. Some writers ſay, that this grace was obtained by the mediation of David Holbech, deputy ſteward of the lordſhips of Bromfield and Yale. DIATH OF OWEN. The event of this affair does not appear. It is probable that it was interrupted by the death of our hero, which happened on the 20th of September, on the eve of St. Matthew, in the ſixty-firſt year of his age, at the houſe of one of his daughters; but whether that of his daughter Scudamore or Monnington, is uncertain; but, according to the tradition of the county of Hereford, it may be ſuppoſed to have been at that of the laſt. It is ſaid, that he was buried in the church-yard of Monnington; but there is no monument, or any memorial of the ſpot that contains his remains.

Figure 1. VALLE CRUCIS ABBY.

HAVING now collected every thing in my power relating to this celebrated Briton, I return, by the ſame road, croſs the Dee at Llangollen; and, after a ride of about a mile, turn a little out of the road, in a fertile little vale, to the abby of

LLAN-EGWEST,ABBY OF VALLE CRUCIS. GLYN-EGWEST MONACHLOG, or DE VALLE CRUCIS, ſolemnly ſeated at the foot of the mountains, on a ſmall meadowy flat, watered by a pretty ſtream, and ſhaded with hanging woods. This was a houſe of Ciſtertians, founded in the year 1200, by Madoc ap Gryffydd Maelor, lord of Bromfield, and grandſon [370] by the mother's ſide to Owen Gwynedd prince of Wales. I cannot diſcover any of the endowments, further than half the tithes of Wrexham, beſtowed on it by Reyner biſhop of St. Aſaph, who died in 1224; and the other half, by his ſucceſſor biſhop Abraham, in 1227. The following biſhop, Howel ap Ednysved, preſented it with the church of Llangollen *. The monks obtained beſides the patronage of ſeveral other livings; ſuch as Wrexham, Rhiwabon, Chirk, Llauſanfraid, and Llandegla; but their title to theſe, as well as to Llangollen, was diſputed by biſhop Anian, commonly known by the name of Y Brawd duo Nannau, or the black brother of Nanney, a Dominican, conſecrated in 1268 who brought his cauſe before the pope's delegates, the official of Canterbury, and the abbot of Tallelechew, and obtained a deciſion in favor of him and his ſucceſſors; but as there was ſome doubt about the patronage of the church of Llandegla, they allotted (in lieu of it) to the abby a third of the tithes of Bryn-Eglwys .

THE landed endowments were not inconſiderable.REVENUES. In the year 1291, the abbot was found to have near the monaſtery, a grange, with three ploughlands, a mill, and other conveniencies, valued at — £. 3 0 0

The granges of Bodhange, Tregam, Rudryn, and Baketon, ſet for — 5 10 0

Alſo the dairy-farm of Nante, the grange of Nuſtroyz, Convenet, and Grennychamt, ſet for — 3 19 8

Alſo the grange of Wyrceſſam, conſiſting of one ploughland and ſome paſture, valued at — 0 15 0 [371] And thirty cows, at the expence of thirty ſhillings.

THE whole of his eſtabliſhment was fourteen pounds fourteen ſhillings and eight pence*. At the diſſolution, the revenue of the houſe was found to be (according to Dugdale) 188 l. per Annum. Speed makes it 214 l. 3 s. 5 d. The laſt abbot was John Herne, who received an annuity of 23 l. on his ſurrender. This, and 10 l. 13 s. 4 d. in annuities to ſome ſurviving monks, were the only charges remaining in 1553.

THIS place remained in the crown till the 9th of James I. who granted it to Edward Wotton, afterwards created lord Wotton. In 1654, we find a lady Margaret Wotton, a recuſant, to have been in poſſeſſion; and that it was put under ſequeſtration by orders of the commiſſioners from the ruling powers.

THERE ſtill remain the ruins of the church,CHURCH. and part of the abby: the laſt inhabited by a farmer. The church was built in form of a croſs, in different ſtyles of architecture. The moſt antient is that of the eaſt end, where the windows are in form of long and narrow ſlips, pointed at top. The window at the weſt end is large, divided by ſtone tracery; and above is a round window of elegant work. Above it is an inſcription in memory of the perſon who repaired or re-built this part: an honor frequently paid to benefactors of this kind. It is in this form; ĀD. ADAM. DMS. Fecit Hoc opus. Pace Beata quieſcat. Amen. And juſt beneath, are the letters M. D... probably part of the date; the reſt being loſt. We cannot aſcertain the perſon intended in this line. He was probably [372] one of the houſe of Trevawr, in which that name occurs more than once; as, Adam or Adda Vawr of Trevawr; and Adam or Adda ap Jorwerth Ddu of Pengwern.

THE capitals of the pilaſters within the church, are finiſhed with elegant foliage. In the north tranſept, is a cloiſter of two arches; an arch that once contained a tomb; and near it a double benetoire, or holy-water pot.

MUCH of the building is made of the coarſe ſlaty ſtone of the country. The door and window frames of fine freeſtone.

THE abbot's apartment was contiguous to the church. There opens from it a ſmall ſpace, where he might ſtand to hear the holy offices performed below.

THE lower part of the abby is vaulted, and ſupported by rows of low pillars; now divided into different rooms. In front is a large window with curious ſtone tracery, which reaches to the ground. Within ſeems to have ſtood a ſmall ſtair-caſe, which led to the fratry, a paved room above the arches.

IN one of the preſent bed-chambers is a ſtone (now part of a chimney-piece) carved with running foliage, with this imperfect inſcription: Hie jacet.... ARVRVET. This is the only relique of any tomb; that of the founder, who was buried here*, is no more: nor yet that of Gryffydd ap Madoc Maelor, lord of Dinas Brân; who, after ſiding with the enemies of his country, in 1270 was depoſited within theſe walls.

Figure 2. VALLE CRUCIS ABBY.
Figure 3. PILLAR OF ELISEG.

[373]ABOUT a quarter of a mile higher up the vale,PILLAR OF EAISEQ in the hedge of a meadow, I met with the remainder of a round column, perhaps one of the moſt antient of any Britiſh inſcribed pillar now exiſting.

IT was entire till the civil wars of the laſt century, when it was thrown down and broken by ſome ignorant fanatics; who thought it had too much the appearance of a croſs, to be ſuffered to ſtand. It probably bore the name of one; for the field it lies in is ſtill called Llwyn-y-Groes, or the Grove of the Croſs, from the wood that ſurrounded it. It was erected at ſo early a period, that there is nothing marvellous, if we ſhould perceive a tincture of the old idolatry, or at left of the primeval cuſtoms of our country, in the mode of it when perfect.

THE pillar never had been a croſs; notwithſtanding folly and ſuperſtition might, in later times, imagine it to have been one and have paid it the uſual honors. It was a memorial of the dead; an improvement on the rude columns of Druidical times and cut into form, and ſurrounded with inſcription. It is among the firſt lettered ſtones that ſucceeded the Meini-hirion, MeiniGwŷr, and Llcchau. It ſtood on a great tumulus; perhaps always environed with wood (as the mount is at preſent) according to the cuſtom of the moſt antient times, when ſtanding. pillars were placed under every green tree *.

It is ſaid that the ſtone, when complete, was twelve feet high. It is now reduced to ſix feet eight. The remainder of the [] [...] [] [...] [374] capital is eighteen inches long. It ſtood infixed in a ſquare pedeſtal, ſtill lying in the mount; the breadth of which is five feet three inches: the thickneſs eighteen inches.

THE beginning of the inſcription gives us nearly the time of its erection: Concenn filius Cateli, Catteli filius Brochmail, Brochmail filius Eliſeg, Eliſeg filius Cnoillaine, Concenn itaque pronepos Eliſeg edificavit hunc lapidem proavo ſuo Eliſeg.

THIS Concenn, or Congen, was the grandſon of Brochmail Yſcithroc, the ſame who was defeated in 607 at the battle of Cheſter *. The letters on the ſtone were copied by Mr. Edward Llwyd: the inſcription is now illegible; but, from the copy taken by that great antiquary, the alphabet nearly reſembles one of thoſe in uſe in the ſixth century.

ONE of the ſeats of Concenn and Eliſeg was in this country. A townſhip adjacent to the column bears, from the laſt, the name of Eglwyſeg; and the pictureſque tiers of rocks are called Gliſeg for the ſame reaſon. The habitation of this prince of Powys in theſe parts was probably Dinas Brân, which lies at the head of the vale of Gliſeg. Mr. Llwyd conjectures, that this place took its name from the interment of Eliſeg; by a ſimilar inſtance in the county of Caermarthen; where the place in which a monumental ſtone ſtands, is called Pant y Polion, corruptly for Pant Pawlin, from Paulinus, the perſon it was inſcribed to:

Servator fidei patriaeque ſemper amator:
Hic PAULINUS jacet cultor pientiſſimus aequi.

[375]THERE are two ways from this pillar: the uſual is along the vale, on an excellent turnpike-road leading to Ruthyn; the other is adapted only for the travel of the horſemen; but far the more preferable, on account of the romantic views. I returned by Valle Crucis; and, after winding along a ſteep midway to the old caſtle, deſcended, and after croſſing the rill of the Brán, arrived in the valley of Gliſſeg; VALLEY OF GLISSEG. long and narrow, bounded on the right by the aſboniſhing precipices, divided into numberleſs parallel ſtrata of white limeſtone, often giving birth to vaſt yew-trees: and on the left, by ſmooth and verdant hills, bordered by pretty woods. One of the principal of the Gliſſeg rocks is honored with the name of Craig-Arthur. That at the end of the vale is called Craig y Forwyn, or the maiden's; is bold, precipitous, and terminates with a vaſt natural column.

THIS valley is chiefly inhabited (happily) by an independent race of warm and wealthy yeomanry, undevoured as yet by the great men of the country.

IN order to get into the great road, I purſued a path up a ſteep aſcent to the left; and about mid-way viſited a houſe noted for being the reſidence of one Edward Davies, a low partizan. and plunderer on the ſide of the uſurper during the civil wars. He was beſt known in his own country by the title of Cneifiwr Glâs, CNEIPIWR GLAS. or the Blue Shaver, from his rapacity, and the color of his cloaths; and was conſidered as a fit inſtrument of the tyranny of the times. In 1654, he was appointed, by the commiſſioners for ſequeſtration, ſteward of the court-leet within the manor of Valle Crucis, being recommended to the office by colonel George Twiſleton, The Cneifiwr ſeems to have not been over-true to his [376] own party, when his intereſt ſtood in the way. He was accuſtomed to take even the royaliſts under his protection, on receiving a proper reward. He once concealed Sir Evan Llwyd of Bodidris, at the time that a conſiderable ſum was ordered for his apprehenſion. He lodged him in a cellar below the parlor; then ſummoning his people, ordered them, in a ſeeming rage, to ſally out in queſt of Sir Evan, ſtamping with his foot, and declaring, that if the knight was above ground, he would have him.

AFTER continuing an aſcent for a little ſpace longer, reach the paſs called Bwlch y Rhiw Velen, BWLCH Y RHIW VELEN. and fall again into the great road. This place is diſtinguiſhed by the deaths of two of the ſons of Llowarch Hên, LLOWARCH HEN. the Cumbrian prince of the ſixth century; who were ſlain in battle, and whoſe loſs the princely bard, their father, deplores in an elegy, of which theſe lines are a fragment:

Bedh GUELL yn y Rhiw Velen
Bedh SAWYL yn Llan Gollen *.
GUELL found a grave in Rhiw Velen,
SAWYL, in Llan Gollen.

LLOWARCH HEN left his country to expel the Saxons and Iriſh out of this part of Britain. He leaves us ignorant of the event: all he acquaints us with is, that he loſt twelve ſons in the generous attempt.

[377]FROM the height above Rhiw Velen, is a very extenſive proſpect of the hundred of Yale; hilly, fertile in graſs, abundant in cattle; but in this part dreary, and deſtitute of hedges and woods: banks, for the moſt part, ſupply the place of the firſt; and brakes of the latter. After ſome deſcent, croſs the Alyn, Here a trifling rill (which, after running for ſome time, receives much increaſe) waters the rich vales of Mold and Hope; and paſſes between the pictureſque banks from near Caergwrle to Gresford, where it goes through an extenſive flat, and falls into the Dee midway between Holt and Eaton Boat. Leave, a little to the left, a place called Havod yr Abad, the ſite of one of the country-ſeats of the abbot of Valle Crucis. Cloſe to the roadſide lies Tommen y Rhodwydd, once a fortreſs known by the name of the caſtle of Yale *, built by Owen Gwynedd, about the year 1148. This is the place Leland, miſtakenly, calls a caſtle belonging to Owen Glyndwr ‡. It conſiſts of a vaſt artificial mount, with another ſtill loftier near one end, the keep of the place. Theſe are ſurrounded with a great foſs and rampart; and have only a ſingle entrance. At preſent, there are not the leſt reliques of the ſuperſtructure: which was probably of wood; for we are told, that this ſhort-lived caſtelet was burnt nine years after its erection, by Jorwerth Goch ap Meredydd §.

IT is in this manner we muſt account for the total diſappearance of many Welſh caſtles, whoſe names are preſerved in hiſtory;WOODEN CASTLES. and whoſe veſtiges we have ſought for in vain. They were made of wood, as was very cuſtomary with ſeveral antient nations, [378] and with others of later date. The Perſians, on the approach of the Spartans, ſecured themſelves within their wooden walls: and Ceſar found great reſiſtance from a tower in the Alpine caſtle of Larignum, made of the timber of the Larix, or the Larch, which was found to be incombuſtible*. In later times, the caſtle of Bamborough was built originally by Ida with wood; the burgh of Murray was fortified by the Danes with the ſame material. The people of the ſame county, in 1228, had caſtles of wood and, a century after theſe, more recent inſtances: William de Melton, archbiſhop of York in 1317, fortified the mount in that city, called the Old Bale, with planks eighteen inches thick.

WHENSOEVER we find an antient fortreſs totally vaniſhed, and we cannot account for the diſpoſal of the materials in the erecting of any neighboring buildings, we muſt ſuppoſe that they had been conſtructed of wood; and that they had been deſtroyed by fire, either flung into them by means of torches, or by veltae, or vaſt maſſes of combuſtibles rolled againſt them by the force of numbers, as was the practice of the antient Scandinavians, deſcribed by Olaus Magnus.

FROM Tommen y Rhodwydd I croſſed the country for about two miles to the village of Llandegla, LLANDEGLA. noted for its vaſt fairs for black cattle. The church is dedicated to St. Tecla, virgin and martyr; who, after her converſion by St. Paul, ſuffered under Nero at Iconium.

[379]ABOUT two hundred yards from the church, in a quillet called Gwern Degla, riſes a ſmall ſpring, with theſe letters cut on free-ſtone: A. G [...]: G.ST. TECLAS'S WELL. The water is under the tutelage of the ſaint; and to this day held to be extremely beneficial in the Clwyf Tegla, St. Tecla's diſeaſe, or the falling-ſickneſs. The patient waſhes his limbs in the well; makes an offering into it of four pence; walks round it three times; and thrice repeats the Lord's prayer. Theſe ceremonies are never begun till after ſun-ſet, in order to inſpire the votaries with greater awe. If the afflicted be of the male-ſex, like Socrates, he makes an offering of a cock to his Aeſculapius, or rather to Tecla Hygeia; if of the fair-ſex, a hen. The fowl is carried in a baſket, firſt round the well; after that into the church-yard; when the ſame oriſons, and the ſame circum-ambulations are performed round the church. The votary then enters the church; gets under the communion-table; lies down with the Bible under his or her head; is covered with the carpet or cloth, and reſts there till break of day; departing after offering ſix pence, and leaving the fowl in the church. If the bird dies, the cure is ſuppoſed to have been effected, and the diſeaſe transferred to the devoted victim.

FROM hence I viſited the houſe of Bodidris, BODIDRIS. a large and antient place, belonging to Evan Lloyd Vaughan Eſq of Corſygedol, in right of his mother Margaret, daughter of Sir Evan Lloyd baronet, the laſt male of the family: deſcended from ynyr ap Howel ap Moriddig ap Sandde Hardd; who, by his valor at the battle of Corwen; in 1165, obtained from his prince the honorable diſtinction in his arms of four bloody ſtrokes, or, in the heralds [380] phrafe, paly of eight, or and gules. For, while he was talking to his prince after the fight, with his left hand ſmeared with blood, he accidentally drew it acroſs his ſword, and left on it the marks of his four fingers. The prince obſerving this, ordered him to carry them on his ſhield; and at the ſame time beſtowed on him the townſhip of Gelligynan in this neighborhood, as a more ſubſtantial mark of his favor.

BODIDRIS takes its name from Idris, ſon of Llewelyn AURDORCHOG, or of the goden torques, the antient lord of Yale. It ſtands in two counties, Flintſhire and Denbighſhire; the long table in the hall having an end in each.

FROM hence I continued my journey to Llanarmon, LLAMARMON a village whoſe church is dedicated to St. Germanus biſhop of Auxerre; who, with St. Lupus, contributed to gain the famous Victoria Alleluiatica over the Picts and Saxons near Mold. He was a moſt popular patron, and has numbers of other churches in Wales under his protection. An image of an eccleſiaſtic, ſtill to be ſeen in the church-wall, is called his. In Leland's days, there was a great reſort of pilgrims, and large offerings at this place*; and, probably, to this imaginary reſeinblance of him.

IN the church is the tomb of a grandſon of the bloody-fingered warrior above mentioned, carrying on his ſhield the arms won by his anceſtor, inſcribed around, Hic jacet Gruſudd ap Lhewelyn ap Ynyr. At his feet lies a dog gnawing a heap of inteſtines. The tradition of the country is, that he engaged in [381] a cruſade, in which he loſt his life by a wound in the abdomen; that his bowels fell out, and were ſeized by a dog, as expreſſed by the ſculptor. If he fell in the romantic cauſe of the holy ſepulchre, the artiſt muſt have forgot to have placed him croſs-legged, the monumental diſtinction of all ſuch knights-errant. The tomb is a cheſt cut out of one ſtone, in which his body was put, and ſent home. The lid is another ſtone, with his effigies carved out of it.

SEPULCHARAL tumuli are very frequent in this pariſh.TUMILI. I was preſent at the opening of one, compoſed of looſe ſtones and earth, covered with a layer of ſoil about two feet thick, and over that a coat of verdant turf. In the courſe of our ſearch, were diſcovered, towards the middle of the tumulus, ſeveral urns made of ſun-burnt clay, of a reddiſh color on the outſide, black within, being ſtained with the aſhes they contained. Each was placed with the mouth downwards on a flat ſtone; above each was another, to preſerve them from being broken by the weight above. Mixed with the looſe ſtones, were numerous fragments of bones; ſuch as parts of the thigh-bones, the arm-bones, and even a ſcull. Theſe had eſcaped the effects of the fire of the funeral pile, and were depoſited about the urns; which contained the reſiduum of the corpſe, that had been reduced to pure aſhes.

I SHALL mention in the following pages the high antiquity of this cuſtom; that it was in uſe with the moſt poliſhed nations, with the Greeks and with the Romans, as well as with the moſt barbarous. The antient Germans practiſed this rite, as appears [382] from Tacitus *. The Druids obſerved the ſame, with the wild addition of whatſoever was of uſe in this life, under the notion that they would be wanted by the deceaſed in the world below; and in confirmation of this, arms, and many ſingular things, of unknown uſe, are to this day diſcovered beneath the places of antient ſepulture.

THE remote Sarmatae, and all the Scandinavian nations, agreed in the burning of the dead; and the Danes diſtinguiſhed by this, and the different funeral ceremonies, three ſeveral epochs.

THE firſt, which was the ſame with that in queſtion, was called Roiſold and Brende-tiide, or the age of burning.

THE ſecond was ſtyled Hoigold, and Hoielſe-tiide, or the age of tumuli, or hillocks. The corpſe at this period was placed entire, with all the ornaments which graced it during life. The bracelets, or arms, and even the horſe of the departed hero, were placed beneath the heap. Money, and all the rich property of the deceaſed, uſed to be buried with him, from the perſuaſion that the ſoul was immortal| and would ſtand in need of theſe things in the other life. Such was the notion both of the Gauls and of the northern nations. Among the laſt, when pyracy was eſteemed honorable, theſe illuſtrious robbers directed that all their rich plunder ſhould be depoſited with their remains§, in order to ſtimulate their offspring to ſupport themſelves, and the glory of their name, by deeds of arms. Hence it is we hear of the vaſt riches diſcovered in ſepulchres, and of [383] the frequent violation of the remains of the dead, in expectation of treaſures, even for centuries after this cuſtom had ceaſed.

THE third age was called Chriſtendoms-old, when the introduction of Chriſtianity put a ſtop to the former cuſtoms: for 'Chriſtians,' as the learned phyſician of Norwich obſerves, ‘abhorred this ſpecies of obſequies; and though they ſtickt not to give their bodies to be burnt in their lives, deteſted that mode after death; affecting rather depoſiture than abſumption, and properly ſubmitted unto the ſentence of GOD, to return not unto aſhes, but to duſt again.’

FROM the remarks of theſe able writers, we may learn the time of the abolition of the cuſtom of burning among the ſeveral nations; for it ceaſed with paganiſm. It therefore fell firſt into diſuſe with the Britons; for it was for ſome time retained by the Saxons after their conqueſt of this kingdom; but was left off on their receiving the light of the goſpel. The Danes retained the cuſtom of urn-burial the laſt of any: for of all the northern nations who had any footing in theſe kingdoms, they were the lateſt who embraced the doctrines of Chriſtianity.

I CANNOT eſtabliſh any criterion by which a judgment may be made of the people to whom the different ſpecies of urns and tumuli belonged, whether they are Britiſh, Roman, Saxon, or Daniſh.

SOME of the tumuli conſiſt of heaps of naked ſtones, ſuch as thoſe in the iſle of Arran; in many parts of Scotland; and in ſome parts of Cornwall.

[384]OTHERS are compoſed, like this of Llanarmon, with ſtones and earth, nicely covered with earth and ſod. Of theſe the baſe is in certain places level with the ground, in others, ſurrounded with a trench: they were ſometimes formed of earth only. Others are of a conoid form, and ſome oblong; of which there is an example in the neighborhood of Bryn y pys, called the Giant's Grave. Finally, other places of antient ſepulture conſiſted only of a flat area, encompaſſed, like the Druidical circles, with upright ſtones; and ſuch were thoſe of Ubbo, and of king Harald, in Sweden *.

THE urns are alſo found placed in different manners, with the mouth reſting downwards upon a flat ſtone, ſecured by another above; or with the mouth upwards, guarded in a like way.

VERY frequently the urns are diſcovered lodged in a ſquare cell compoſed of flags. Sometimes more than one of theſe cells are found beneath a carn or tumulus. I have even met with, near Dupplin in Perthſhire, not fewer than ſeventeen, diſpoſed in a circular form. When numbers are found together, the tumulus was either a family-cemetery, or might have contained the reliques of a number of heroes who periſhed with glory in the ſame cauſe: for ſuch honors were paid only to the great and good.

THE urns found in theſe cells are uſually ſurrounded with the fragments of bones that had reſiſted the fire; for the friends of the deceaſed were particularly careful to collect every particle; [385] which they placed, with the remains of the charcoal, about the urns, thinking the neglect the utmoſt impiety, We have no certainty of the ceremonies uſed by the antient Britons on theſe mournful occaſions; but, from many circumſtances which we continually diſcover in our tumuli, there appear many, analogous to thoſe uſed in antient Greece and Rome.

THE Greeks firſt quenched the funeral pile with wine, and the companions or relations of the departed performed the reſt. Such was the ceremony at the funeral of Patroclus.

Where yet the embers glow,
Wide o'er the pile the ſable wine they throw,
And deep ſubſides the aſhy heap below.
Next the white bones his ſad companions place,
With tears collected in the golden vaſe.
The ſacred reliques to the tent they bore;
The urn a veil of linen cover'd o'er.
That done, they bid the ſepulchre aſpire,
And caſt the deep foundations round the pyre;
High in the midſt they heap the ſwelling bed
Of riſing earth, memorial of the dead*.
POPE.

THE duty of collecting the bones and aſhes fell to the next of kin. Thus, Tibullus pathetically entreats death to ſpare him in a foreign land, leaſt he ſhould want the tender offices of his neareſt relations:

[386]
Me tenet ignotis aegrum Phaeacia, terris
Abſtineas avidus, mors violenta, manus!
Abſtineas, mors atra! precor, non hic mihi mater,
Quae legat in maeſtos oſſa peruſta ſinus.
Non ſoror, Aſſyrios cineri quae dedat odores,
Et fleat effuſis ante ſepulcra comis.
DELIA non uſquam*!
Here, languiſhing beneath a foreign ſky.
An unknown victim to diſeaſe, I lie;
In pity, then, ſuſpend thy lifted dart,
Thou tyrant, Death; nor pierce my throbbing heart:
No mother near me, her laſt debt to pay,
Collect my bones, my aſhes bear away;
No ſiſter o'er my funeral pile ſhall mourn,
Nor mix Aſſyrian incenſe in my urn:
Nor, Deita, thou, oh thou my ſoul's firſt care!
Shall with thy dear, diſhevell'd locks, be there.
R. W

I BEG leave to add the account given by Virgil of the funereal rites of Pallas . We find in it many ceremonies that were uſed by the northern nations. Animals of different ſpecies were burnt or depoſited with the body. The ſpoils of war, and weapons of various kinds, were placed on the pile; the bones and aſhes were collected together; and a heap of earth, or a tumulus, flung over them. Each of theſe circumſtances are continually diſcovered in our barrows. Horns, and other reliques of quadrupeds, weapons of braſs and of ſtone, all placed under the very ſame ſort of tombs as are deſcribed by Homer and Virgil. Perhaps [387] the other ceremonies were not omitted; but we have no record that will warrant us to aſſert that they were in all reſpects ſimilar.

Jam pater Aeneas, &c.
The Tuſcan chief and Trojan prince command,
To raiſe the funeral ſtructures on the ſtrand.
Then to the piles, as antient rites ordain,
Their friends convey the relicks of the ſlain.
From the black flames the ſullen vapours riſe,
And ſmoke in curling volumes to the ſkies.
The foot thrice compaſs the high-blazing pyres;
Thrice move the horſe, in circles, round the fires.
Their tears, as loud they howl at ev'ry round,
Dim their bright arms, and trickle to the ground.
A peal of groans ſucceeds; and heav'n rebounds
To the mixt cries, and trumpet's martial ſounds.
Some, in the flames, the wheels and bridles throw,
The ſwords and helmets of the vanquiſhi'd foe:
Some, the known ſhields their brethren bore in vain,
And unſucceſsful jav'lins of the ſlain.
Now round the piles the bellowing oxen bled,
And briſtly ſwine: in honour of the dead,
The fields they drove, the fleecy flocks they ſlew,
And on the greedy flames the victims threw.
PITT.

SINCE I am engaged in this funebrious ſubject, it will be fit to obſerve, that a diſcovery of an entire ſkeleton, placed between flags of a proportionable ſize, was made near this place. This, [388] as well as others ſimilar in different parts of our iſlands, evinces that the antient inhabitants did not always commit their bodies to the fire: for, beſides this inſtance, a ſkeleton thus incloſed was found in one of the Orknies *, and others in the ſhire of Murray; and with one of the laſt was found an urn with aſhes, and ſeveral pieces of charcoal which-ſhews, that each practice was in uſe in the ſame age.

FROM Llanarmon I continued my journey along the bad roads of that pariſh. The country now grows more contracted, by the approximation of the hills. On one ſide are the rocky ledges of limeſtone, in the townſhip of Tre'r Yrys, rich in lead-ore; and which is ſuppoſed to have taken its name from Gyrys, who made the firſt collection of Welſh proverbs, known by the name of Mad-waith bén Gyrys o Jal, or the good work of old Gyrys of Yale.

ON the left are the Clwydian hills, which divide this country from the vale of Clwyd. Theſe are cultivated pretty high; are free from rocks, covered with heath.

THERE is a Bwlch, or paſs through theſe hills, of a moſt remarkable name, lying between the ſummits called Moel Eithinen, and Moel Fenlli, in this pariſh. This is called Bwlch Agricla, or the paſs of Agriccla; and, ſince there is no other tranſlation to be given of the welſh word, we may conjecture this to have been his paſſage to Mona. That the Romans were in after-times reſident in theſe parts, is evident from the number of coins found [389] in the neighborhood, particularly in the pariſh of Llanverres, where abundance of Denarii have been met with.

MOEL FENLLI, or Benlli's hill, is remarkable for having on it a ſtrong Britiſh poſt, guarded as uſual by dikes and foſſes. This probably was poſſeſſed by a chieftain of that name; for Nennius * ſpeaks of ſuch a regulus of the country of Yale; but, as too uſual with our antient hiſtorians, blends ſo ridiculous a legend with the mention of him, as would deſtroy belief of his exiſtence, did not the hill remain a poſſible evidence. St. Germanus, ſays the abbot, deſigned to make this Benlli a viſit; but meeting with a moſt inhoſpitable reception, was kindly entertained by a ſervant of the king in his humble cottage; who killed his only calf, dreſſed, and placed it before the ſaint and his companions. This goodneſs met with its reward; for lo! the next morning the identical calf was found alive and well with its mother.

A LITTLE beyond this paſs, entered the pariſh of Llanverres, rich in mineral. Paſs through the village, and by the church. The laſt is dedicated to St. Berres (Britius) diſciple of St. Martin the Hungarian, and his ſucceſor in the biſhoprick of Tours, the latter end of the fourth century. The church at this time was rebuilding, chiefly by the bounty of Mrs. Catherine Jones of Clommendy.

THE eaſt end of the old church was repaired in 1650, by Dr. John Davies, the author of the Welſh-Latin dictionary, a moſt ſkilful antiquary; native of this pariſh.

[390]IN the courſe of my ride, croſs the turnpike-road between Mold and Ruthyn; which, after a long aſcent, paſſes Bwlch Peny-Barras, a ſpot extremely worthy of the traveller's attention, on account of the beautiful view over the vale of Clwyd.

MY route this time led me eaſtward, along the great road, into the county of FLINT.

THIS ſpot being confirmed to it by the event of a moſt expenſive law-ſuit, by the court of exchequer, in 1763, between the Groſvenour family and the lords of the manor of Mold: the firſt claming it as part of his mineral grant of the hundred of Yale; the others affirming it to be part of the county of Flint, and within the pariſh of Mold. The deciſion, which was in favor of the lords of Mold, is recorded on an arch over a noted ſtone, called Carreg Carn March Arthur; which was then adjudged to be the boundary of the pariſh of Mold in the county of Flint, and of Llanverres in that of Denbigh.

I CONTINUED along the great road; and, within two miles of Mold, hung long over the charming vale which opens with exquiſite beauty from Vron, the ſeat of the ingenious Richard Williams Eſquire. Cambria here lays aſide her majeſtic air, and condeſcends to aſſume a gentler form, in order to render leſs violent her approaching union with her Engliſh neighbor. It were to be wiſhed ſhe had acted with more moderation, and not outſhone it at a rate, the moſt partial Saxon muſt allow it to have done.

[391]THIS was antiently called Yſtrad-Alun, or the Strath of the alun; a comot in the cantref Y Rhiw: inhabited by a hardy race, at perpetual feud with the men of Cheſhire on one ſide, and the men of Yale on the other: for my countrymen never ſuffered their active ſwords to ruſt; in default of Saxon, they would take up with the blood of their Cambrian neighbors.

ON the firſt regulation of the Welſh counties by Henry VIII. this vale, then called Moleſdale, with the continuation of it which went under the name of Hopeſdale, were annexed to the county of Denbigh; but, in the 33d year of the ſame monarch, were given to Flintſire.

ALMOST the whole is ſeen from this ſpot; a delicious compoſition of rich land finely bounded by gentle riſings, watered by Alun, and varied with a pretty town and fine church in the middle; with numbers of ſeats, groves, and well-cultivated farms. Among the former appears conſpicuous, Leeſwood, the creation of the late Sir George Wynne, riſing palace-like along a fine ſlope on the ſouth ſide of the vale, ſurrounded with woods and lawns; a ſad Mauſoleum of fugacious wealth! The diſtant view is not leſs beautiful. The three fine eſtuaries of the Dee, Weever, and Merſey, the hills of Cheſhire, and the more remote range of thoſe of Shropſhire, Staffordſhire, Derbyſhire, Yorkſhire, Lancaſhire, Weſtmoreland, and Cumberland, complete this beautiful ſcene.

FROM hence to the town of Mold is a pleaſant ride. Mold conſiſts principally of one broad and handſome ſtreet on a gentle riſing, in the midſt of a ſmall but rich plain. The church is placed on an eminence; and is of the time of Henry VIII. [392] adorned with a very handſome ſteeple built of late years. Before the Reformation, it belonged to the abby of Buſtleſham, or Byſham, in Berkſhire. The living is a vicarage, and has dependent on it the chapelries of Nerquys and Treuddyn.

THE architecture of the church is of the gothic of that period, the windows large, and their arches obtuſe. Within and without, is a row of animals carved, as uſual at that period. The ſame may be obſerved on the old building over St. Winifrede's well. The inſide is extremely elegant; conſiſts of a nave and two ailes, ſupported by ſeven arches, whoſe pillars are much to be admired for their lightneſs. They conſiſt of four round pilaſters, with the intermediate ſpace hollowed, and the capitals elegantly carved. Between the ſprings of every arch is an angel holding a ſhield, on which are either the arms of benefactors, or the inſtruments of the Paſſion. The arms of the Stanlies, who long poſſeſſed this manor, are very frequent. Among the other ſculptures, is the Veronica, or face of our Saviour impreſſed on a handkerchief given to him by a woman on his way to the place of crucifixion. He took it, wiped his face, and returned it with the miraculous impreſſion. This precious relique is preſerved in St. Peter's at Rome, and the woman worſhipped as a ſaint, under the name of the Handkerchief; which at firſt was called the Vera Icon, or true image; but becoming thus perſonified, received the title of St. Veronica. Beneath two windows above the chancel, are carved in a rude manner, the nails, pincers, and other tokens of the crucifixion.

[393]AT the eaſtern ends of the two ailes are three gothic niches elegantly carved. They formerly were filled with images, now deſtroyed. The two in the ſouth aile are almoſt hid with monuments. Among them is a very ſuperb one in memory of Robert Davies, Eſq of Llanerch, with his figure in a ſtanding attitude, and dreſſed in a Roman habit.

NEAR it is a mural monument of his anceſtor, another Robert Davies, of Gwyſaney *, the paternal ſeat of the family, and the reſidence, before the acquiſition of Llanerch in the vale of Clwyd, by the marriage of this gentleman with Anne daughter and heireſs to Sir Peter Mutton knight.

NOT far from Mold ſtands Gwyſaney; a moſt reſpectable old houſe, beautifully ſituated. It was of ſtrength ſufficient to be garriſoned, in the time of the civil wars; and was taken, on the 12th of April 1645, by Sir William Brereton .

NEAR this is an antient mural monument,MONUMENTS. in memory of,Robert Warton, alias Parfew. He was firſt abbot of Bermondſey, and elected to the ſee of St. Aſaph in 1536. He lived much at Denbigh and Wrexham during his continuance in this ſee and was removed to that of Hereford in 1554, where he died in 1557. He was unjuſtly accuſed of impairing the revenues of this dioceſe: on the contrary, it appears, that he had been a conſiderable benefactor to the churches of Gresford, Wrexham, and Mold; which, probably, he found in an unfiniſhed ſtate. He was interred at Hereford, under a handſome tomb with his effigies; [394] but this grateful memorial of his benevolence to the church of Mold was erected, as an inſcription beneath once informed, by one John ap Rys. Hoc opus factum fuerit, per John ap Rys. Above are his arms in a ſhield, quartered with thoſe of the ſee of St. Aſaph; and over them a label, inſcribed, Robtus pmiſſione Divinâ Epus ASSAV. An angel ſupports one end; a biſhop the other.

THE epitaph on the reverend Doctor Wynne, compoſed by himſelf, ſeveral years before his deceaſe, merits publication.

WILLIAM WYNNE of Tower, D. D.

Some time fellow of All-Souls College in Oxford, and rector of Llanvechan in this dioceſe, departed this life aged*

In conformity to an antient uſage, from a proper regard to decency, and a concern for the health of his fellow-creatures, he was moved to give particular directions for being buried in the adjoining church-yard, and not in the church.

And, as he ſcorned flattering of others while living, he has taken care to prevent being flattered himſelf when dead, by cauſing this ſmall memorial to be ſet up in his life-time.

GOD, be merciful to me a ſinner! Heb DDUW, Heb ddim.

[395]At the north-end of the town ſtands the mount, to which it owes the Britiſh and Latin names, YR WYDDGRUG, and MONS ALTUS, the lofty or conſpicuous mount. This is partly natural, partly artificial. Our Britiſh anceſtors, and afterwards the Saxons and Normans, taking advantage of ſo defencible an eminence, cut it into form, and placed on it a caſtle. It is poſſible, that the Romans might alſo have had ſome concern in it; for a beautiful gold coin of Veſpaſian was found here; but this being the only proof of its having been poſſeſſed by them, I ſhall not inſiſt on it any farther than to urge the probability; Mold being in the neighborhood of many of their mines, and of places where much of their money has been found.

THE mount is now called the Bailey-hill, from the word Ballium, or caſtle-yard. It appears to have been ſtrongly fortified by great ditches, notwithſtanding its arduous aſcent. It is divided into three parts: the lower Ballium or yard; the upper; and the keep, or Donjon. The tops of the two firſt are levelled by art; and all are ſeparated by deep foſſes. The keep was on a part greatly and artificially elevated; and around its edges are a few ſtones, the only reliques of the fortreſs. On one ſide of the upper yard are found vaſt quantities of bones, ſome human; others of animals, moſtly domeſtic, ſuch as of oxen, ſheep, horſes, and hogs; and a few remnants of horns of ſtags and roe-bucks.

THE ſummit of this hill commands a ſhort but moſt exquiſite view of the circumjacent vale; and to the weſt, Moel famma riſes with aweful pre-eminence among the Clwydian hills.

[396]THE firſt certain account I have of this place is in the reign of William Rufus, when we find it in poſſeſſion of Euſtace Cruer *, who then did homage for Mold and Hopedale; he, probably, having been the perſon who had raviſhed them from the antient owners.

IN the end of the reign of Henry I. or the beginning of that of Stephen, Robert, called, from his reſidence at this place, de Montalto, high ſteward of Cheſter, and one of the barons of the Norman earls, became owner of it. We are informed, that the caſtle was at this time very ſtrong; and that it had been often beſieged; but never taken, till the Welſh, no longer able to bear the ravages of the garriſon, attempted, in 1144,1144. the reduction of it, under the conduct of their gallant prince Owen Gwynedd. The garriſon, for a conſiderable time, defended the place with great courage; but at length it was taken by ſtorm; part of the defendants ſlain, the others taken priſoners, and the fortreſs razed to the ground.

AFTER this it was again reſtored; for we find in the aerae Cambro-Britannicae ,1198. that it was taken, in the winter of 1198, by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth: and about the year 1267 it was a third time beſieged, taken, and demoliſhed, by Gryffydd ap Gwenwynwyn, lord of Powis.

THE gentry of Yſtrad-alun or Moleſdale were among the principal complainants of wrongs done to them by Roger de Clifford, juſticiary of Cheſter, and his deputy Roger Scrochil, a little before [397] our ſubjection by Edward I. They alleged, that their lands were taken from them; that they were grievouſly and unjuſtly fined on trivial occaſions; and that, after paying a ſum for exemption from Engliſh laws, they were obliged to ſubmit to a trial by jury, or by twelve men, contrary to the uſage of their country*.

MUCH of the country was, in this reign, ſo covered with, woods, that Edward, before his conqueſt of Wales, was obliged to cut a paſſage through them, in the tract between Mold and a place then called Swerdewood; and to direct, that nothing ſhould be required for the damage done to the owners. I find he called in a number of cutters for this purpoſe; and in the next year, not fewer than two hundred cutters and colliers (carbonarii) who were ſummoned out of the foreſt of Dean, and the county of Hereford, under the conduct of Gilbert de Clare earl of Gloſter.

IN the year 1322, Sir Gryffydd Llwyd, a valiant gentleman, who was knighted by Edward I. on bringing the news of the birth of his ſon Edward of Caernarvon; and who, after our conqueſt, adhered to the Engliſh, till he thought their yoke intolerable; roſe in arms, over-run all North Wales and the Marches; and, among others, ſeized on this caſtle; but his attempt was unſucceſsful, being defeated and taken priſoner.

[398]FROM this time we hear no more of it as a place of defence, Matthew Paris and Dugdale * confound it with Hawarden, and aſſert it to have been attacked or taken by David, brother to the laſt Llewelyn. Mold continued in poſſeſſion of the poſterity of Robert, 1302. who did homage for it in 1302, at Cheſter, to Edward prince of Wales; 1327. but in 1327, the laſt baron, in default of male iſſue, conveyed it to Iſabel, queen of Edward II. for life; and afterwards to John of Eltham, younger brother to Edward III; who died without iſſue, and his poſſeſſions reverted to the crown.

I AM uncertain how long the crown reſerved this lordſhip. I find it was granted to the Stanley family, perhaps to Sir John Stanley, by Henry IV. at the ſame time that he beſtowed on him Hope and Hopedale. The earls of Derby poſſeſſed it till the execution of earl James; after which, both the manor of Hope and Mold were purchaſed by certain perſons, who enjoyed them till the Reſtoration: after that event, a reference was made by his majeſty, in 1662, to the lords, reſpecting the re-purchaſe of thoſe manors by the earl of Derby; in which it had been agreed by his lordſhip, to pay the parties, on the 26th of March 1664, the ſum of eleven thouſand pounds, and to be put into full poſſeſſion of the manors. The lords imagined that every thing had been adjuſted; but the earl of Derby refuſing to perform his part, the referrees layed the affair before the king; who, on the 14th of June 1664, ordered that the former purchaſers ſhould remain in quiet poſſeſſion. The Derby family, by ſome [399] means, regained the lordſhip of Hope; but that of Mold is at preſent the property of lady Vincent. The mineral advantages of the manor, which have, at times, been very conſiderable, are equally, divided between her ladyſhip, the Trevors, and Mr. Lloyd of Tyddyn.

FROM Mold, I took the weſt ſide of the vale; a tract filled with numbers of gentlemen's ſeats of independent fortunes, as yet not caught and abſorbed in the gulphy vortex of our Leviathans. Theſe are the remnants of the cuſtom of gavel-kind, ſo prevalent formerly in North Wales, and which have remained unimproved by thoſe accidents which, by time and chance, happen to many. I digreſſed a little to the right, to ſee the magnificent gates of Leeſwood, the ſeat of the late Sir George Wynne baronet: and a little higher up to Tower, TOWER. to enjoy the witty, the lively and agreeable converſation of the reverend Doctor William Wynne (now departed). This gentleman was one of thoſe who kept the patrimony derived from a long train of anceſtors, without increaſe, yet without impair. The houſe is ſmall; but part of it is a true ſpecimen of the border-houſes on the confines of England and Scotland: a ſquare tower: of three ſtories. In the lower, ſtill remains a ſtaple in the ceiling; a memorial of the rudeneſs of the times. During the wars between the houſes of York and Lancaſter, this place was inhabited by Reinallt ap Gryffydd ap Bleddyn, one of the ſix gallant captains who defended Harlech caſtle on the part of Henry VI. He and his people were in continual feud with the citizens of Cheſter. In 1465, a conſiderable number of the latter came to Mold fair; a fray enſued between the two parties; a dreadful [400] ſlaughter was made on both ſides: but Reinallt got the victory; took priſoner Robert Bryne linen-draper, and mayor of Cheſter in 1461, whom he led to his tower, and hung on the ſtaple in his great hall. An attempt was made afterwards to ſeize Reinallt; and two hundred tall men ſallied from Cheſter for that purpoſe. He retired from his houſe to a neighboring wood, permitted part of his enemies to enter the building; then ruſhing from his cover, faſtened the door; and, ſetting fire to the place, burnt them without mercy: he then attacked the reſt, purſued them to the ſea-ſide, where thoſe who eſcaped the ſword, periſhed in the channel. His actions were celebrated at the time, in poems ſtill extant; particularly by Lewis Glyn Cothi, in an Awdl *, in praiſe of Reinallt. It ſeems Lewis had married a widow of Cheſter, againſt the conſent of the inhabitants; who ſpoiled him of all his effects. This whetted the poet's ſatyr: ‘Who ſummons the miniſtry of angels and of devils to his aſſiſtance; and pours a profuſion of curſes on Caer Lleon and its people. He wiſhes water to drown, fire to burn, and air to infect the hated place; and that graſs might grow in every part, except the ſacred edifices, of this habitation of the ſeven deadly ſins.’

THE TOWER, in old times, was called after the name of this hero. It was alſo named Bryn-coed, from the wood that might have ſurrounded it. In the time of Leland it was inhabited by John Wynn ap Robert.

[401]I DESCENDED into my former road, and paſſed along the courſe of the Terrig, or the violent; TERRIG. at this time a trifling brook; but often of a tremendous ſwell and fury. On quitting its channel, go by Leeſwood, or Coed-Llai, the antient ſeat of my worthy relation Thomas Eyton eſquire. The Davieſes of Gwaſaney, the Wynnes of Tower; and this family, ſprung from Kynrig Evell, or the Twin, ſon of Madoc ap Meredydd prince of lower Powys *. He was ſtyled lord of Eglwyſeg; and had beſide, for his portion, Moleſdale, and Treuddyn in the pariſh of Mold; which, by the cuſtom of gavel kind, became divided among his poſterity; part of which, theſe families, his deſcendants, ſtill enjoy.

FARTHER on is Hartſheath, the houſe of Guillim Wardle eſquire, deſcended, by the female line, from the Lloyds of the ſame place. It is moſt beautifully ſeated on a long riſing, inſulated by the vale, and finely wooded and cultivated. The houſe ſtands on the ſouthern extremity, and commands a moſt elegant view of the valley, divided by the inſulated rock of Caergwrle, ſoaring out of the valley, and capped with a ruined caſtle.

A LITTLE further up the vale ſtands Plâs-Têg; PLAS-TEG. a ſingular houſe, belonging to the Trevors; but, for numbers of years, occupied by farmers. The Trevors acquired it by the marriage of Robert Trevor of Brynkinalt, with Katherine daughter of Llewelyn ap Ithel of the Mold and Plâs-têg. It is built with great regularity and ſimple grandeur. In the centre is a hall forty-three feet long by twenty-three. A ſpacious ſtair-caſe; and above, is a dining-room of the ſame dimenſions with the hall, and twelve feet nine inches high. At each corner of the houſe is a ſquare wing or tower, [402] conſiſting (as does the centre) of five floors. In each is a room twenty-two feet ſix, by nineteen ſix; and within each of theſe rooms a cloſet thirteen feet ſeven inches ſquare.

THIS houſe was built in 1610 by Sir John Trevor *, a ſecond ſon of the branch of Trevalun. The deſign is attributed to Inigo Jones; but I doubt the tradition. It wants both the Grecian-gothic ornaments of his worſe days, and the pure Grecian of his beſt.

FROM hence I purſued my journey to Caergwrle, CAERGWRLE. a village on the banks of the Alun, in the pariſh of Hope or Eſtyn, whoſe form ſpeaks it to have been a Roman ſtation, which appears very evident to the antiquarian eye, from the ſummit of the adjacent rock, the ſite of the caſtle. The precincts ſhew themſelves to have been rectangular, with one ſide formed by the ſ [...]ope along the banks of the river. Here is yet preſerved the antient diſpoſition, in three broad ſtreets, running parallel, and three narrower interſecting them at right angles. It had been only a ſmall place, an out-poſt to Deva; but had the uſual concomitants of Roman luxury.RO [...]. In Camden's time (1606) a hy [...] was diſcovered near the place five ells long, four broad, and half an ell high, cut out of the live rock. The ſ [...]oo [...] was of brick ſet in mortar: the roof ſupported by brick pillars; and conſiſted of poliſhed tiles, perforated; on theſe were laid certain brick tubes which conveyed the heat to the room above. On ſome of thoſe tiles were inbſcribed LEGIO XX. which point out the founders. I have alſo been credibly informed, that Roman bricks were found in the ruins of the old houſe of [403] Hope, the ſeat of the family of the ſame name. I have alſo heard, that large beds of iron cinders have been diſcovered near Caer Eſtyn in this pariſh, the ſuppoſed works of the Romans.

BESIDES theſe proofs, here is the trace of a Roman road, pointing from the village towards Mold, and is viſible in two or three places; eſpecially in the fields on this ſide of Plâs-têg. I think that part of the preſent road was a portion of the Roman. An artificial mount ſtands cloſe on its courſe.ROADS. Another road points towards Hawarden; which increaſes my ſuſpicion of that having alſo been a Roman out-poſt. As the word ſtreet is generally a ſign of a Roman road, there might have been a third on the Wrexham ſide of Caergwrle; for we find on that road, Croes y ſtreet paſſing over a place called Ceſn y Bêdd, or the hill of the grave, and leading to the caſtle. Theſe roads were one way into ſome of the mineral parts of Wales, where Roman money had been found.

MR. EDWARDS makes a happy conjecture reſpecting the etymology of the name of this place. Caer Gawr Lle, or the camp of the Giant Legion, Lleon Gawr; for the Britons beſtowed that title on the twentieth legion, to imply its power; a turn analogous to Victrix, giving it the ſtrength of a giant*.

THIS place, in the diviſion of Wales by Roderic the great, formed part of the Cantref y Rhiw. When the Saxons made a conqueſt [404] of our borders, they comprehended it in their hundred called Exeſtan, and added it to the county of Cheſter. We find in the Doomſday book, that Hope (which gives name to the pariſh) was held at that period by one Giſlebert; before by Edwevi [...] a freeman. In after times, this tract was known by the name of Hopedale. On the diviſion of Wales into counties by Edward I. it was annexed to Flintſhire; was ſevered from it, and added to Denbighſhire by Henry VIII.; and in the ſame reign, reſtored to the former county. It is a common notion in the country, that the laſt was effected by the intereſt of the earl of Derby, in order to have his Welſh eſtates in the ſame county; for at that time, the family was poſſeſſed of Hawarden, Moleſdale, and this manor; which had been granted, on January 1ſt 1401, by Henry IV. to Sir John Stanley. The family had at the ſame time, the lordſhip of Maelor Saeſneg, which was a portion of Flintſhire ſince its firſt being formed into a county. This manor of Hope is the only one poſſeſſed at preſent in Wales by the earl of Derby.

THE caſtle of Caergwrle ſtood on the ſummit of a great rock,CASTLE. precipitous on one ſide, and of ſteep aſcent on the others. Some of the walls, and part of a round tower ſtill remain, ſufficient to ſhew, that its ſize was never great. Cloſe to it, on the acceſſible parts, it was protected by very deep foſſes cut through the rock. On the north-eaſt ſide, there is a pretty extenſive area; and round its verge the veſtiges of a rampart of earth and ſtones, and a foſs, ſuch as uſual in the Britiſh poſts: it may be therefore ſuppoſed, that it had been poſſeſſed by the Britons in early times; and that it ſerved to defend, in conjunction [405] with Caer Eſtyn, CAER ESTYN. a Britiſh poſt of one rampart and ditch on the oppoſite ſide of the dale above the village, the entrance through this paſs into Wales. The vale almoſt cloſes in this place, leaving only room enough for the Alun to flow through its pictureſque dingles, till it gains the open country near the church of Gresford.

I CANNOT trace the founder of this caſtle.FOUNDER. It probably was one of the few Welſh fortreſſes that we have to boaſt of. Its oblong form; its comparative deficiency of towers; and its general agreement in ſtructure, with others whole origin I am acquainted with, make me willing to ſuppoſe it the work of our countrymen, after they had recovered poſſeſſion of this tract. In the reign of Owen Gwynedd, I find it part of the eſtates of Gryffydd Maelor *.

DAVID, brother to Llewelyn, laſt prince of Wales, held it from Edward I. David made great complaints of the injurious treatment he met with from Roger de Clifford, the juſticiary of Cheſter, who cut down his woods about Hope; and endeavored to diſpoſſeſs him of his rights. When David took up arms in defence of his brother, he left a garriſon in this caſtle; but in June 1282, it ſurrendered to the Engliſh monarch. As ſoon as it came into his poſſeſſion, he beſtowed it, with all its appertenances, on his beloved conſort Eleonora ; from which it acquired the name of Queen Hope. The queen lodged here in her way to Caernarvon, where her huſband ſent her to give the Welſh [406] a ruler born among them. Either at this time, or ſoon after, the caſtle was burnt by a caſual fire.

IN 1307, the firſt of Edward II. this caſtle and manor was granted to John de Cromwell, JOHN DE CROMWELL. on condition that he ſhould repair the caſtle, then in a ruinous ſtate: and in 1317, he was directed to raiſe fifty foot-ſoldiers for the wars in Scotland, out of his lands in this country*. From his death, I find a gap in the ſucceſſion, till the time they were given to Sir John Stanley.

CAERGWRLE, with Hope, is a preſcriptive borough, and, in conjunction with Flint, &c. ſends a member to parlement.

WEST of the caſtle, on a lofty hill,BRYN YORKYN. is Bryn Yorkyn, the paternal ſeat of Ellis Yonge Eſq a deſcendant of the fertile ſtock of the often mentioned Tudor Trevor. Jorwerth, the twelſth in deſcent, marrying the daughter of William le Yonge of Croxton , called his children after their mother's name, which was continued by the family.

LLEWELYN AP DAVYDD AP MEREDYDD, a deſcendant of Ynyr of Yale, had eſtates in this pariſh, which were forfeited in the reign of Henry IV, for his adherence to Owen Glyndwr, and beſtowed on Jenkin Hope, great grandſon of Hugh Hope of Hawarden .

THE pariſh is divided by the Alun: the village and church of Hope lies about a mile from the caſtle on the north ſide of the ſtream.CHURCH. The church is dedicated to St. Cynfar. The monuments of note are, two to the Trevors of Plâs-têg; one, which [407] is mural, to Sir John Trevor knight, founder of that houſe, and ſecretary to the earl of Nottingham, victor over the invincible armaaa, and comptroller of the navy in the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. He died at his neighboring ſeat, in 1629, aged 67.

THE other is alſo mural; with two kneeling figures: the man in a gown and ruff; the lady with a kerchief over her neck. This wants an inſcription; but by the arms appears to have belonged to a Trevor.

ABUNDANCE of limeſtone is burnt into lime on Caergwrle hill; a lofty mountain, compoſed of that ſpecies of ſtone; from which a vaſt trade is carried into Cheſhire. ENTROCHI. Near the top are found in looſe earth, numbers of the bodies called entrochi, of a curious and uncommon ſort, with round protuberant joints. Foſſiliſts ſuppoſe them to have been parts of ſome ſpecies of arboreſcent ſea-ſtar, whoſe branches bear a reſemblance to theſe ſubſtances.

IN former times, millſtones were cut out of the rock on which the caſtle ſtands, which is compoſed of ſmall pebbles lodged in grit.

ON Rhyddyn demeſne, belonging to Sir John Glynne, adjoining to the Alun, are two ſprings, ſtrongly impregnated with ſalt;SALT SPRINGS. to which, in dry weather, uſed to be a great reſort of pigeons to pick up the hardened particles. Theſe were formerly reſorted to, as a remedy in ſcorbutic caſes. The patients drank a quart or two in a day; and ſome boiled the water till half was waſted, before they took it. The effect was, purging, griping, and ſickneſs at the ſtomach, which went off in a few days, and then [408] produced a good appetite. Dr. Short gives an inſtance of a woman in a deplorable ſituation from a deep ſcurvy, who was perfectly reſtored by the uſe of theſe ſprings.

FROM the village of Hope, I returned on the north ſide of the valley; re-paſſed Mold; and, about a mile weſt of the town, viſited Maes-Garmon; MAES-GARMON. a ſpot that ſtill retains the name of the ſaintly commander in the celebrated battle, the Victoria Alleluictica, fought in 420, between the Britons, headed by the biſhops Germanus and Lupus, and a crowd of pagan Picts and Saxons, who were carrying deſolation through the country. This event happened in Eaſter week, when the Chriſtian army, wet with their recent baptiſm in the river Alun, were led by their holy commanders againſt the pagan hoſt. Germanus inſtructed them to attend to the word he gave, and repeat it. Accordingly, he pronounced that of ALLELUIA. His ſoldiers caught the ſacred ſound, and repeated it with ſuch ecſtatic force, that the hills reſounding with the cry, ſtruck terror into the enemy, who fled on all ſides; numbers periſhed by the ſword, and numbers in the adjacent river*.

SUCH is the relation given by Conſtantius of Lyons, who wrote the life of St. Germanus, within thirty-two years after the death of the ſaint. It has been objected by cavillers, that the Saxons were not at that time, poſſeſſed of Britain. That may be admitted; but the learned USHER overthrows the objection, by rightly obſerving, that thoſe people had, long before, [409] made temporary invaſions of our iſland, and committed great ravages in ſeveral parts; and calls to witneſs Ammianus Marcellinus *: and to his authority, I may add, that the Romans found it neceſſary to have, in the later times, a new officer to watch their motions, and repel their invaſions, a comes littoris SAXONICI per BRITANNIAS.

MAES-GARMON, the ſcene of this celebrated victory, lies near Rhual, the pleaſant ſeat of Thomas Griffith Eſq whoſe uncle, Nehemiah Griffith, erected a column, with the following inſcription, to perpetuate the memory of the ſpot.

Ad Annum CCCCXX Saxones Pictiq. Bellum adverſus Britones junctis viribus ſuſciperunt In hac regione Hodieq. MAESGARMON appellata; cum in praelium deſcenditur, Apoſtolicis Britonum Ducibus Germano et LUPO, CHRISTUS militabat in Caſtris: ALLELUIA tertio repetitum exclamabant Hoſtile agmen terrore proſternitur: Triumphant Hoſtibus fuſis ſine ſanguine palma Fide, non Viribus obtenta M. P. in VICTORIAE ALLELUIATICAE memoriam N. G. MDCCXXXVI.

[410]FROM hence I proceeded towards Kilken; and ſaw in my way, Heſp-alun *;HESP-ALUN. the place where the river Alun, like the ſullen Mole or mourning Guadiana, ſinks under ground, and continues a ſubterraneous courſe for half a mile, and then emerges to the day. About two miles diſtant from this place lies the church or Kilken, beneath Moel Famm [...], the higheſt diviſion of the Clwydian hills.CLWYDIAN HILLS. Theſe run in a chain from above Preſta [...]yn on the eſtuary of the Dee, from north to ſouth as far as Moel Yr accre in Llanarmon pariſh; when they join the Mountain Cefn du, extending to the pariſh of Gwyddelwern. Theſe admit no paſſage the whole way, excepting that of Bodvari, without climbing the ſteep ſides, and going through the bwlchs formed high up between the round heathy heads that riſe from the maſs, more than two-thirds of the way to the ſummits; and which form, from the weſt ſide of the vale of Clwyd, a moſt beautiful view, eſpecially in the ſeaſon when it glows with the p [...]rple flowers of the heath. A few birds, lovers of exalted ſituations, are ſtill to be found here; a few black and red grous have eſcaped the rage of ſhooters; and I have ſeen the ringeuz [...] about the lower parts. Theſe hills are compoſed of a mixed ſoil, clay, and gravel. The ſtone is of a ſhattery laminated nature, and bad for moſt o [...]conomic uſes. The ſides abound in ſprings, which deſcend in ſmall rills, to the great benefit of the inhabitants of the rich ſlopes.

THE church of Kilken is remarkable for its carved roof;KILLEN CHURCH. which is ſaid to have been brought from the church at Baſingwere [411] abby on the diſſolution: and thus to have fulfilled a prophecy of our Robin Ddu, who, when he ſaw it put up by the monks, obſerved, it would do very well for a church beneath Moel Famma.

IN this pariſh, on the ſide of the turnpike road, not far from Kilken hall, is the noted Fſynnon Leinw, or the flowing well; FSYNNON LEINW. a large oblong well with a double wall round it. This is taken notice of by Camden for its flux and reflux; but the ſingularity has ceaſed ſince his time, according to the beſt information I can receive.

NEAR this well, is Kilken hall, a ſeat of a branch of the Maſtyns, now the property of the reverend Mr. Edwards of Pentre, in Montgomeryſhire, in right of his wife, Charlotte Moſtyn, heireſs of the place.

THIS fountain lies in the vale of Nannerch; VALE OF NANNERCU. which extends one way to Mold; and at the other joins with that of Bodvari, the inlet into the vale of Clwyd. The Wheeler, a pretty ſtream, riſes on the eaſt ſide; and after a ſhort courſe, falls into the Clwyd. The houſe of Penbedw, the ſeat of Watkin Williams Eſq is a great ornament to this little valley.PENBEDW. In this gentleman's library are ſome remains of the collection of Sir Kenelm Digby, ſome curious illuminated books; and the ſuperb pedigree* of the Digby family, and its alliances, with all the arms and tombs that were extant, painted in the moſt exquiſite manner, at the expence of [412] above a thouſand pounds; a vaſt ſum at the time of the compilation, in the year 1634.

PENBEDW is ſeated in a manor of the ſame name, granted, in 1544, by Henry VIII. and witneſſed by queen Catherine Parr, to Peter (Pyers) ap Howel, alias Peter Moſtyn, of Weſpre, in conſideration of the payment of ſeventy-three pounds in hand. The grant recites, that it had been parcel of the poſſeſſions of the earl of Kent.

IN the meadows below the houſe,BRITISH POSTS. is part of a druidical circle, and a ſmall tumulus. On one of the ſummits of the mountain, at a great height above the houſe, is a very ſtrong Britiſh poſt, with two ditches of prodigious depth, with ſuitable dikes on the acceſſible ſides: and on that which is inacceſſible, is a ſmooth terras, levelled along the hill, probably a place for exerciſing the poſſeſſors. This poſt is called Moel ARTHUR, probably in honor of our celebrated prince.MOEL ARTHUR. This is one of the chain of poſts that defended the country of the Ordovices, and their ſucceſſors, againſt the inroads of invaders. They are far from being peculiar to that nation; but were the common mode of defence throughout the whole iſland. I conjecture that their origin was very early; but that they were occaſionally made uſe of in after times, even as low as that of Owen Glyndwr. Almoſt all are rendered defenſible in the ſame manner, by deep ditches and high-banks, formed either of earth or of looſe ſtones, with one, but generally two entrances. In the deſcription of that of Caractacus by Tacitus, their formation is exactly ſhewn: Tunc montibus arduis, et ſi qua clementer accedi poterant, in modum. [413] valli ſaxa praeſtruit *. They are of no certain ſhape; but the precinct conforms to that of the hill.THEIR USES. They are generally deſtitute of water; which evinces, that they were not intended as places of long abode, but merely temporary retreats for their families, herds, and flocks on a ſudden invaſion. The fighting men kept the field, while all that was dear or valuable, was committed to theſe aſyla under a proper garriſon.

THEY are always placed within ſight of one another; ſo that by fires, or other ſignals, notice might be given of the approach of an enemy.FIRT, MOEL HIRADDIG. The firſt that forms this chain is Moel Hiraddig, about two or three miles from the ſea, on a rocky hill, in the pariſh of Cwm. Poſſibly, prior to the caſtle of Diſerth, another poſt might have been on that rock; and in ſuch caſe, ſhould be eſteemed the firſt poſt, the guard of the ſhore, and the great artificial mount above Newmarket, called Cop yr Gole [...]i, or Mount of Light; which may be ſeen from moſt of the others, might be the ſpot from whence the ſignal might be given of the approach of the enemy by ſea; whether they were Saxons or plundering Scoti.

THE next to Moel Hiraddig, MOEL Y GAER. is a Moel y Gaer, in the pariſh of Bodvari, above the entrance of the inlet into the vale of Clwyd.

THE third are the vaſt entrenchments on Bryn y Cloddiau, or the hill of ditches.BRYN Y CLODDIAU. This is the largeſt we have; being a mile and a half in circuit, and defended by ſingle, double, triple, and even quadruple ditches, according to the exigencies of the [414] ſides. In the foſs next to the area, are numbers of hollows, as if deſigned for lodgments of men, or a particular guard.

MOEL ARTHUR is the next. Almoſt oppoſite to it, on Helkin mountain,MOEL Y CRIO. on the higheſt part, is Moel y Crio; a vaſt artificial mount, that ſeems to be a middle poſt between this, and the Moel y Gaer in Northop pariſh;SECOND, MOEL Y GAER. but our ignorance in the art military of thoſe days, prevents us from pointing out the immediate uſe.

NEXT ſucceeds Meel Fenlli. MOEL FENLLI, AND THIRD, MOEL Y GAER. Beneath that is another poſt, on a leſſer hill which juts into the vale of Clwyd, and is called by the common name of Moel y Gaer. Theſe are all that ſeem deſtined for the defence of this part of the country.

CAER-ESTYN,CAER ESTYN. and the poſt oppoſite on Caergwrle rock, defended that front. Farther on was Hawarden; and ſtill farther, where the vale of Cheſhire gains upon our country, was that of the Roſts, in the pariſh of Gresford. I could give a long liſt of theſe poſts, perhaps as far as the Severn ſea, in the country of the Silures, and the Tranſ-ſ [...]brine parts of the Cornavii; but their ſuffice for the preſent purpoſe. I ſhall endeavor (in Mr. [...]a [...]s's map) to point out the whole of theſe faſtneſſes of our di [...]t [...]ant anceſtors.

SOON after paſſing Penbedw, NANEERCH. I reached Nannerch, a hamlet with a ſmall church, noted for little but a monument, in memory of Charlot [...] Theophila Moſtyn, wife to Richard Moſtyn Eſq former owner of Peabedw, and daughter and co-heireſs (with her ſi [...]ter Magare [...]ta Maria, who married Sir John Conway of Bediruddan, to John Digby, ſon of the famous Sir Kenelm; by which means, ſeveral choice morſels of his collection came into our country.

[415]GRATITUDE to the worthy rector of this place, the reverend Mr. John Lloyd, for the many informations I received from him, reſpecting the antiquities of our country, urges me here to make my beſt acknowlegements. Few poſſeſs ſo large a ſhare of the knowlege of our language, and of our hiſtory; and few have been ſo liberal in the communication.

THIS valley is a boundary of the mineral tract of our county.MINERAL TRACT. I ſhall now take a kind of bird's eye view of the whole, which I ſurrounded, beginning with the northern extremity. The highland part may be divided into two.FIRST DIVISION. The firſt is inſulated by valley, plain, and ſea. The farther point is Dalar Goch, or the rock of Diſerth, bounded by the rich, arable ſlats of Rudland; the courſe is continued ſouthward through the pariſhes of Cwm, Dimeirchion, and Caerwys, bounded by the vale of Clwyd, and that of Bodvari. The pariſhes of Yſgeiviog and Nannerch ſucceed, and after them a portion of Kilken, when this mineral tract takes a turn above the pariſh of Mold at Rhos Eſmor in that of Northop; and then faces the eaſt in the pariſhes of Halkin and Holywell, in thoſe of Whiteford, Llanaſa, Gwaenyſkar, and Meliden, and makes a point towards the weſt, where it unites with the rock of Diſerth.

THE ſecond diviſion is ſeparated from the firſt by a deep depreſſion of the country between Rhos Eſmor, SECOND DIVISION. and the pariſh of Mold. There is even in the lower parts, on the weſt ſide, a chain of mines. But the land riſes again at Mold mountain, and the mineral tract is continued through the pariſhes of Llanverres, the eaſtern ſides of Llanarmon, Llandegla, the Gliſſeg rocks, and Minera above Wrexham.

[416]THE middle of the firſt diviſion is entirely limeſtone, as is the weſtern ſide, from Dalar goch to Rhos Eſmor: from thence, or on the eaſtern ſide the ſtrata alters.LIME-STONE. Towards the ſkirts of the hills,CHERT. it changes to that flinty ſubſtance called chert, more or leſs pure.SHALE. Lower down it degenerates into ſhale of a black ſtone, ſoon diſſoluble in the air. So far lead-ore is found. Sy [...] after this ſtrata, free-ſtone commences,FREE-STONE. and coals are found, which continue to the ſhore, and under the ſea, till they appear on the oppoſite ſide in the peninſula of Wiral, and again beyond the eſtuary of the Merſey.

THE ſame obſervations might be made on the ſtrata in the ſecond diviſion. Limeſtone beds are continued on the weſtern. ſide beyond the Gliſeg rocks, and in their neighborhood on both ſides of the Dee. The veins in Minera lie in an impure gritty chert. The ſudden change of Strata is very obſervable. The tranſition may be immediately ſeen on each ſide of the narrow vale of Nannerch, limeſtone forming the one, and the ſhattery ſlaty ſtone compoſing the other.

WAS I to continue my aerial ſpeculation, I ſhould ſee a diſcontinuance of the limeſtone ſtrata till they roſe on the oppoſite ſide of the vale of Clwyd. My eye would catch the moſt remote part on the northern ſide of Red Wharf-bay in Angleſea, inſulated far from any other. The great promontories of Llandudus and Rhiwledin, or the greater and leſſer Ormſhead, the firſt (at times rich in copper) would next appear. Penmaen Rhos, and the continued precipices along the coaſt of Denbighſhire, ſucceed in the nearer view, many of them productive of lead ore. And, finally, the detatched rocks of Henllan beyond Denbigh, and [417] Coed Marchon beyond Ruthyn, which yield to the induſtrious farmer, by their excellent lime, a manure more certainly productive of wealth, than the precarious ſearch after the deep-hid minerals.

THE limeſtone and the chert of our mineral tracts are of unknown depth; neither their bottom, nor that of the fiſſars or veins which croſs them, have ever been diſcovered.DEPTH OF VEINS. The ore of lead has been followed to the depth of a hundred and thirty, or a hundred and forty yards, and then has ceaſed; but the unprofitable vein appears below uncloſed. Our mines, as I have ſhewn before, have been worked from very early times*, but not without long interruptions. But as ſeveral of our veins have been purſued for a hundred years paſt, the point may be affirmed of the depth to which they bear ore in our country.

THE veins run either north and ſouth, or eaſt and weſt.THEIR COURSE. But it is remarkable, that the lead ore got in the firſt, ſcarcely ever produces a quantity of ſilver worth the refiner's labor. The ores of Mold mountain, and Minera, yield ſcarcely any ſilver.

THE minerals of the tracts in queſtion, are ore of lead, calamine, or Lapis calaminaris; and a mineral, that anſwers the ſame purpoſe, called by the miners black jack.

OUR ores of lead differ in quality. The lamellated,ORES OF LEAD: THEIR PRODUCE OF LEAD. or common kind, uſually named potters ore, yields from fourteen to ſixteen hundred and a quarter of lead, from twenty hundred of the ore: but the laſt produce is rare.

[418]THE quantity of ſilver produced from our lead is alſo variable.OF SILVER. The upper part of a vein of lead ore is always richeſt in ſilver; the bottom, in lead. Our refiners will aſſay any lead that will yield ten ounces in the ton of lead and upwards. The uſual produce is fourteen ounces: ſixteen have been gotten; but acquiſitions of that kind within this circuit are extremely uncommon.

SOME years ago, a green lead ore was diſcovered in the ſilver rake on Halkin mountain.GREEN LEAD-ORE. Only a ſmall quantity was found, which yielded about thirteen hundred and a quarter from a tun of the ore. It was of a very ſtubborn quality, and reſiſted the greateſt powers of the blaſt furnace before it would yield any metal.

THE brown or whitiſh ſtoney ſpecies of ore called Caulk, BROWN, OR CAULK. produce from five hundred and a quarter to eleven hundred of lead from the ton. The ſmelters likewiſe get from what is called waſte, or the hillocks, which are the refuſe of good ores, ſo mixed with clay, gravel, ſtone, or calamine, as not to be ſeparated but by fire, from ten to thirteen hundred of lead per ton.

WE have had at different periods mines productive of vaſt wealth in ſeveral parts of this tract.RICH MINES. The richeſt vein was diſcovered about fifty years ago at Rowley's rake, or Pant y Pwll dwr on Halkin mountain, continued with ſome interruption into a ſmall incloſure, the property of Sir George Wynne of Leeſwood, and the freehold of Mr. David Hughes; which, in leſs than thirty years, yielded to different proprietors, adventurers, and ſmelters, above a million of money. The reader will naturally expect to find in theſe parts a nation of Craeſus's; but citò parta, [419] citò dilabuntur. It is at this time an undetermined queſtion, whether more wealth has been gotten out of the earth, or more loſt in the ſearch after the prizes in this ſubterraneous lottery.

MUCH of the ore obtained in our country is ſmelted in the ſeveral furnaces belonging to different companies: much alſo is exported in the form of ore. I wiſhed to be acquainted with the annual quantity ſmelted from thoſe of the country; but found, by reaſon of the ores imported from Scotland and other parts, that the computation would be of inſuperable difficulty. All the lead and ore is exported from the port of Cheſter, a ſmall quantity excepted, conſumed by the plumbers and other trades in the adjacent parts. I therefore refer the reader to pages 196, 197, for the number of tuns ſent from that port in the years 1771, 1776. By the favor of Mr. Jken, collector, I am permitted to ſay, that, from the year 1758 to Chriſtmas 1777, the following quantities have been entered in the cuſtom-houſe, foreign and coaſt-ways.

Lead. 79533 Tons. 11 c. 2 qrs. 16 lb.

Lead ore. 12840 T. 6 c.

Litharge. 2767 T. 7 c.

I CANNOT aſcertain the quantity of ounces of ſilver produced from our ores, for the reaſons juſt aſſigned. I can only ſay, that the company of a ſingle ſmelting-houſe, did obtain in the [420] Year

  • 1754—12160. Oz.
  • 1755—1276. Oz.
  • 1756—7341. Oz.
  • In 1774—5693. Oz.
  • 1775—6704. Oz.
  • 1776—4347. Oz.

THE reader need not be told, that the former were the years of mineral plenty; and ſuch, which I muſt ſay, are ſeldom known. There are five other ſmelting houſes; but I believe none equalled this in the quality of ſilver. This precious metal is chiefly bought by the artificers at Sheffield and Birmingham.

CALAMINE is found in great abundance in the veins of limeſtone and chert, in the ſame manner as the ores of lead. Where there is plenty of the former, there is little or none of the latter. The calamine is alſo entirely confined to the eaſtern ſide of the country. About a thouſand tons of this mineral is annually exported. I have mentioned, in p. 62. how little it was known in Flintſhire till within theſe ſixty years; and may here add, that we were indebted to John Barrow, a native of Somerſetſhire, who being well acquainted with that mineral in his own country, pointed out to us its uſes.

CALAMINE aſſumes various ſhapes and colors. Green, yellow, red, and black, often has a ſtony appearance, and often like the lattice work of bones. The richeſt looks like bees-wax; but that ſpecies is not common any more than the curious cryſtallized ſpecimens.

THE ores of Zink, called here black jack, are met with in our mines. We have it in a metallic form of a bluiſh grey color; [421] and again in form of the dark ſemipellucid ambers. Cromſted calls the firſt ZINCUM ferro ſulphurato mineraliſatum; the other ZINCUM calciforme cum ferro ſulphuratum, No 1. a.

THESE were engroſſed by patent by a Briſtol company, and carried there to aid the making of braſs.

SPARS of different kinds are found in the limeſtone veins; particularly the ſpecies called Iceland cryſtal,ICELAND CRYSTAL. ſpatum iſlandicum *, the refracting ſpar, which repreſents objects ſeen through it double.

PETROLEUM, or rock-oil, is found ſometimes in crevices of the mines;FAIRIES BUTTER. has an agreeable ſmell, and is eſteemed ſerviceable in rheumatic caſes, if rubbed on the parts affected. The miners call it Ymenyn tylwyth têg, or the fairies butter, belonging to the benign ſpecies; perhaps the ſame with thoſe (in ſuperſtitious days called knockers) which, by repeated ſtrokes,KNOCKERS. were believed to direct the miners to a rich vein. But, in fact, the noiſes often heard in mines are always diſcovered to proceed from the dropping of water. Theſe daemones montani, as Agricola * calls them, never infeſt our mines, except in form of damps of both ſpecies, the ſuffocating and the fire. The laſt is very frequent in the coal-pits, but rare in the mines of lead, unleſs in thoſe parts where the ſhale begins, or ſtone attendant on coal. The firſt kills inſtantaneouſly, by its mephitic vapor, and is a diſaſter common to neglected vaults, and draw-wells. The other is inflammable, [422] and burns and deſtroys in a dreadful manner,FIRE-DAMP. as the colliers, through negligence, in not ſetting fire to the vapor before it gets to a head, do often experience. The moſt tremendous inſtance was on February 3d, 1675, in a coal-work at Moſtyn, which I ſhall relate from the Philoſophical Tranſactions *; and ſo conclude the account of our mineral concerns.

The damp had been perceived for ſome time before,IN MOSTYN COLLIERY. reſembling fiery blades darting and croſſing each other from both ſides of the pit. The uſual methods were taken to free the pit from this evil. After a ceſſation of work for three days, the ſteward thinking to fetch a compaſs about from the eye of the pit that came from the day, and to bring wind by a ſecure way along with him, that, if it burſt again, it might be done without danger of men's lives, went down, and took two men along with him, which ſerved his turn for this purpoſe. He was no ſooner down, but the reſt of the workmen that had wrought there, diſdaining to be left behind in ſuch a time of danger, haſted down after them; and one of them, more indiſcreet than the reſt, went headlong with his candle over the eye of the damp-pit, at which the damp immediately catched, and flew to and fro over all the hollows of the work, with a great wind, and a continual fire; and, as it went, keeping a mighty great roaring noiſe on all ſides.

THE men, at firſt appearance of it, had moſt of them fallen upon their faces, and hid themſelves as well as they could, in [423] the looſe, ſlack, or ſmall-coal, and under the ſhelter of poſts; yet, nevertheleſs, the damp returning out of the hollows, and drawing towards the eye of the pit, it came up with incredible force; the wind and fire tore moſt of their clothes off their backs, and ſinged what was left, burning their hair, faces, and hands; the blaſts falling ſo ſharp on their ſkin, as if they had been whipt with cords. Some, that had leſt ſhelter, were carried fifteen or ſixteen yards from their firſt ſtation, and beaten againſt the roof of the coal, and ſides of the poſt, and lay afterwards a good while ſenſeleſs; ſo that it was long before they could hear or find one another. As it drew up to the day-pit, it caught one of the men along with it, that was next to the eye; and up it comes, with ſuch a terrible crack, not unlike, but more ſhrill, than a cannon, that was heard fifteen miles off, with the wind; and ſuch a pillar of ſmoak, as darkened all the ſky over-head for a good while. The brow of the hill above the pit was eighteen yards high, and on it grew trees of fourteen or fifteen yards long; yet the man's body, and other things from the pit, were ſeen above the tops of the higheſt trees, at leaſt 100 yards. On this pit ſtood a horſe-engine of ſubſtantial timber, and ſtrong iron work; on which lay a trunk, or barrel, for winding the rope up and down, of above 1000 pounds weight; it was then in motion, one bucket going down, and the other coming up full of water. This trunk was faſtened to that frame with locks and bolts of iron; yet it was thrown up, and carried a good way from the pit; and pieces of it, though bound with iron-hoops and ſtrong nails, blown into the woods about: ſo likewiſe were [244] the two buckets; and the ends of the rope, after the buckets were blown from them, ſtood a while upright in the air like pikes, and then came leiſurely drilling down. The whole frame of the engine was ſtirred, and moved out of its place; and thoſe mens clothes, caps, and hats, that eſcaped, were afterwards found ſhattered to pieces, and thrown amongſt the woods a great way from the pit.

FROM Nannerch, I continued my journey along the narrow vale, pictureſquely ornamented with hanging woods. Leave the church of Skeiviog on the right. In this pariſh was ſhot, a few years ago,HOOPOE. that ſingular bird, the Hoopoe, vol. i. No 90. of Britiſh Zoology. This ſpecies is of the ſize of a ſtare; eaſily diſtinguiſhable by its large creſt; long, ſlender, incurvated bill; and by having only ten feathers in the tail. I can add to my former account, that the Arabs call it the meſſenger bird; not only from the reſemblance which the creſt bears to the plumes that decorate the caps of Chaous or Turkiſh meſſengers; but alſo, becauſe the Mahometans believe it to have been the bird which (when birds could ſpeak) held a converſation with Solomon, and to have been the courier which carried on the epiſtolary correſpondence between that wiſe monarch and the Sabaean queen*.

AT the junction of the vales of Nannerch and Bodvari, I aſcended to Caerwys; CAERWYS. a town mouldering away with age. It conſiſts of four ſtreets, croſſing each other at right angles, anſwering to the four points of the compaſs. The name, as Camden has long ſince obſerved, ſavors of great antiquity. [425] Caer, the fortreſs and Gwŷs, a ſummon, which ſhews it had been in early times, the place of judicature; and it certainly had that honor long before it was removed to the county-town of Flint. I will not aſſert that it had been a Roman ſtation, notwithſtanding I am credibly informed, that in the preſent century, a number of copper coins were found in a bottom below the town; and there ſtill remains in the pariſh, a Latin inſcription, cut in rude letters, on an unhewn upright ſtone to this effect: HIC JACIT MULI ERBO . . . . OBIIT. Multitudes of tumuli are ſcattered over the neighborhood; and one very near to it. This plain, probably, had been a field of battle. Whether this inſcription referred to any heroine that fell on this place, I will not dare to affirm. It is an unfiniſhed piece, Hic jacit mulier BO—and, at a diſtance, the word obiit.

CAERWYS*, with a neighboring town now loſt, called Tref Edwyn, and Rhuddlan, had been, from very early time, the ſeats of the judicature for theſe parts of Wales. In 1281, the noblemen of Tegengl layed before the archbiſhop of Canterbury (who came down on the Chriſtian deſign of reconciling the differences between Edward I. and Llewelyn) the infringement of their liberties in this particular; aſſerting, that it was the tenor of their privilege to be judged according to the laws of Wales, at thoſe three places; and that the beſt men of the country were taken becauſe they deſired to be judged at Tref Edwyn by the laws of Wales . How far their complaints were remedied does [426] not appear: but when juſticiary courts were in after times appointed, Caerwys recovered its antient honors. In this town were held the great ſeſſions. It had its town-hall, and its jail; and was the place of execution. It remained the place of judicature till ſometime paſt the middle of the laſt century, when the courts were removed to Flint.

IN the year 1241, or the 26th of Henry III. that prince granted to the inhabitants of Tegengl, a charter*, exempting them from the amobr; but at the ſame time, impoſes on them an obligation to find twenty-four people, who were to keep the peace of the country: and obliges this town, Picton, Axton, and other hamlets, to find three men each, to work three days in the harveſt, as they were wont in the days of the two preceding Welſh princes. This ſeems during ſome temporary advantage which Henry had over the Welſh.

CAERWYS has the moſt conſiderable fairs for cattle, ſheep and horſes, in all the county. They are of great antiquity. The firſt John Trevor, biſhop of St. Aſaph, appears among the ſubſcribers to a charter for a market in 1356; but the markets have now failed entirely, ſince the increaſe of Holywell.

THE earl of Plymouth is lord of this manor; and poſſeſſes, by purchaſe of an anceſtor, the eſtate of the Griffiths, deſcended from Ednowen-Bendew, one of the fifteen tribes, whoſe ſeat is ſtill ſtanding, inhabited by tenants.

BUT what gave a particular glory to the town of Caerwys, was the honor it had of being the place of the Eiſteddfod, or the [427] ſeſſions of the bards and minſtrels for many centuries. It was the reſort of thoſe of a certain diſtrict; as Aberfraw in Angleſea was of thoſe of that iſland, and the neighboring county; and Mathraval of thoſe of the land of Powys. The reaſon that theſe places were thus diſtinguiſhed, was, becauſe the two laſt were the reſidence of princes; and Caerwys, on account of the royal palace that ſtood below the town, the reſidence of Llewelyn ap Gryffydd.

THESE Eiſteddfods were the Britiſh Olympics. Fired at firſt with generous emulation, our poets crowded into the liſt, and carried off the prize, contented with the mere honor of victory. At length, when the competitors became numerous, and the country became oppreſſed with the multitude, new regulations of courſe took place. The diſappointed candidates were no longer ſuffered to torture the ears of the principality with their wretched compoſitions. None but bards of merit were ſuffered to rehearſe their pieces; and minſtrels of ſkill, to perform. Theſe went through a long probation: judges were appointed to decide on their reſpective abilities; and degrees ſuitable were conferred, and permiſſions granted for exerciſing their talents, in the manner that will be related in the following pages. The judges were appointed by commiſſion from our princes; and after the conqueſt of Wales, by the kings of England, notwithſtanding, Edward I. exerciſed a political cruelty over the generation of bards of his time; yet future princes thought fit to revive an inſtitution ſo likely to ſoften the manners of a fierce people. The crown had the power of nominating the judges, who decided not only on the merit, but the ſubject of [428] the poems; and, like our modern lord chamberlains, were certain of licenſing only thoſe which were agreeable to the Engliſh court.

BEFORE I enter on the account of the ſucceſſion of Britiſh Eiſteddſfods, I ſhall juſt mention the high antiquity of the character that made,ANTIENT BARDS. in after times, the principal figure in theſe meetings. The Bardi (the Beirdds of the Britons) were of great authority among the Celtic nations: the Germans were animated in battle by verſes delivered in a deep and ſolemn tone*. among the Gauls , they ſung the actions of great men; and particularly, celebrated in their hymns, the heroes who fell in fight:

Vos quoque qui fortes animas belloque peremtas
Laudibus in longum vates dimittis in aevum
Plurima fecuri fudiſtis carmina BARDI.
LUCAN. i.
YOU too, ye bards, whom ſacred rapture fire
To chaunt your heroes to your country's lyre,
Who conſecrate in your immortal ſtrain,
Brave patriot ſouls in righteous battle ſlain;
Securely now the tuneful taſk renew,
And nobleſt themes in deathleſs ſongs purſue.
ROWE.

IT is highly probable, that the bards and minſtrels were under certain regulations during the time of Druidiſm; but we find no [429] proofs of them till long after;IN TIME OF CAPWALADR: till the days of Cadwaladr, laſt king of Britain, who died at Rome about the year 688. Of him it is ſaid, that being at an aſſembly of this nature, with his nobles, there came a minſtrel, and played in a key ſo diſpleaſing, that he and all his brethren were prohibited, under a ſevere penalty, from ever playing on it any more; but were ordered to adopt that of Mwynen Gwynedd, or the ſweet key of Gwynedd*.

I IMAGINE,OF ARTHUR: that previous to this, there had been muſical regulations in Britain; for I find that a tune, called Goſteg yr Halen, or the Prelude of the Salt, was always played whenever the ſalt-ſeller was placed before king Arthur's, knights, at his round table.

AFTER Cadwaladr, the next princes who undertook the reform of our minſtrelſie, were Bleddyn ap Cynfyn and Gryſſydd ap Cynan. OF GRYFFYDD AP CYNAN The firſt was cotemporary with the conqueror; the laſt with king Stephen. Theſe enacted, that no perſon ſhould follow the profeſſion of bard or minſtrel, but ſuch only who were admitted by the Eiſteddfod, which was held once in three years. They were prohibited from invading one another's province: nor were they permitted to degrade themſelves by following any other occupation. Neither of theſe were to demand above ten ſhillings in any article, under pain of loſing the whole, beſides being ſuſpended from their profeſſion for three years.

AFTER the times of the princes, the great men, their deſcendants, took theſe people under their care and protection, allowing [430] them the liberty of circuiting their reſpective territories thrice a year, viz. at Chriſtmas, Eaſter, and Whitſuntide; and the whole principality once in three years.

THE bards were in the higheſt repute. I cannot give a ſtronger idea of the eſteem they were in, than by citing from the Welſh laws, the account of their rank in the prince's court, and the various rewards and fees they were entitled to, and the ſevere penalties that were enacted to preſerve their perſons from inſult. They were ſuppoſed to be endowed with powers equal to inſpiration. They were the oral hiſtorians of all paſt tranſactions, public and private. They related the great events of the ſtate; and, like the ſcalds of the northern nations, retained the memory of numberleſs tranſactions, which otherwiſe would have periſhed in oblivion. They were likewiſe thoroughly acquainted with the works of the three primary bards, viz. MYRDDYN AP MORFRYN, MYRDDYN EMRYS, and TALIESIN BEN BEIRDD. But they had another talent, which probably endeared them more than all the reſt to the Welſh nobility; that of being moſt accompliſhed genealogiſts, and flattering their vanity, in ſinging the deeds of an anceſtry derived from the moſt diſtant period.

THE BARDD TEULU, or COURT BARD, held the eighth place in the prince's court. He poſſeſſed his land free. The prince ſupplied him with a horſe and woollen robe, and the princeſs with linen*. He ſat next to the governor of the palace at the three great feſtivals; for, at thoſe ſeaſons, the governor was to deliver him his harp On the ſame feſtivals, he was alſo to [431] have the Diſdain's, or ſteward of the houſhold's garment for his f [...]e.

WHEN a ſong is called for, the Cadeir-fardd, or the bard who has got the badge of the chair, is firſt to ſing a hymn in glory of GOD; after that, another in honor of the prince. When thoſe are over, the Teuluwr, or bard of the hall, is to ſing ſome other ſubject.

IF the princeſs calls for a ſong after ſhe has retired from table to her apartment, the Teuluwr muſt ſing to her highneſs in a low voice, leaſt he ſhould diſturb the performers in the hall. John Dafydd Rhys ſays, that the ſubject was to be on death; but I rather follow Wotton, who, inſtead of angau, which ſignifies death, prefers the word amgen, or a ſeparate ſubject from what was ſung in the hall.

WHEN the bard goes with the prince's ſervants on a plundering expedition, and performs before them his animating compoſitions, he is to have the fineſt heifer of the booty; and in caſe the detachment was drawn up in order of battle, he was to ſing at their head, the praiſes of the Britiſh monarchy. This was to remind them of their antient right to the whole kingdom; for their inroads being almoſt always on the Engliſh territories, they thought they did no more than ſeize on their own.

THE prince beſtowed on him an ivory cheſs-board; others ſay a harp: and the princeſs a golden ring. His lodging was to be with the governor of the palace.

WHEN he is required to ſing with other bards, by way of diſtinction, he is to have a double portion.

[423]IF the bard aſks any favor of the prince, he muſt ſing one of his compoſitions: if of a nobleman, three: if of a common perſon, he muſt ſing till he is ſo weary as to reſt on his elbow, or to fall aſleep. This, I fear, ſhews our bards were a very importuning race, and required a check; yet ſtill they were in high eſtimation. Their Gwerth, or compenſation for their life, was rated at cxxvi cows*, and any injury done them, at vi cows and cxx pence.

THE Merch-Gobr of his daughter,MERCH-GOBR. or marriage fine of his daughter, was cxx pence. Her cowyll, argyffreu, or nuptial preſents, was thirty ſhillings; and her portion three pounds. It is remarkable, that the PENCERDD GWLAD, or chief of the faculty, was entitled to the merch-gobr, or amobr for the daughters of all the inferiors of the faculty within the diſtrict, who payed xxiv pence on their marriage; which not only ſhews the antiquity, but the great authority of theſe people.

THE PENCERDD was not among the officers of the court: but occaſionally ſat in the tenth place. He alſo had his land free; was to perform much in the ſame manner as the court bard, whom he ſeems to have taken place of, whenever he attended; for, when the Pencerdd was preſent, the former ſat only in the twelfth ſeat. No other was to play without licenſe from him. His death was valued at cxxvi cows; and any injury done him, at vi cows, and cxx pence. Each of the chief muſicians was to receive from their lord, the firſt, [433] a harp; the ſecond, a crwth; the third, a pipe; which, on their deaths, were to revert to the lord*.

THE prince's harp was valued at cxx pence, and that of Pencerdd at the ſame; the key at xxiv pence: a gentleman's harp was eſtimated at lx pence.

POWEL ſays, that Gryffydd ap Cynan brought over with him out of Ireland, divers cunning muſicians, who deviſed in a manner, all the inſtrumental muſic now uſed. With all reſpect to our ſiſter kingdom, I muſt imagine, that if our inſtruments were not originally Britiſh, we were copyiſts from the Romans, who, again, took their inſtruments from the Greeks. Methinks I ſee the model of a harp in fig. 7. tab. lxxvi. of the ſupplement of Montfaucon, volume iii.; of the crwth in Doctor BURNY'S Pſalter, tab. v. fig. 4. or his Etruſcan lyre, fig. 10. and of the pipe, in ſeveral ſimple pipes, before it received from us the addition of the horns, from whence it got the title of pib-gorn, and the Engliſh name of cornet .

A COMMISSION for holding an Eiſteddfod at Caerwys, in 1568, is ſtill in poſſeſſion of Sir Roger Moſtyn, together with the SILVER HARP; which had from time immemorial been in the gift of his anceſtors, to beſtow on the chief of the faculty. This badge of honor is about five or ſix inches long, and furniſhed with ſtrings equal to the number of the muſes. The commiſſion is the laſt of the kind which was granted; and is in form following:

[434]
[figure]

BY THE QUENE.

ELIZABETH, by the grace of GOD, of England, Frannce, and Ireland Quene, defendor of the fayth, &c.
to our truſtie and ryght wel beloved Sr Richard Bulkley knight, Sir Rees Gruffith knight, Ellice Price eſquior, Doctor in cyvill lawe, and one of our counſail in our marches of Wales, William Moſtyn, Jevan Lloyd of Yale, J [...]n Saluſbury of Ruge, Rees Thomos, Maurice Wynne, [435] Will̄ m Lewis, Peres Moſtyn, Owen Jhn ap Hoſt Vaughan, John Will̄ am ap John, John Lewis Owen, Moris Gruffyth, Symound Thelvall, Ellice ap Wm Lloyd, Robt Puleſton, Harry Aparry, William Glynne, and Rees Hughes, eſquiors, and to every of them, greating.

Wheras it is come to the knowledge of the lorde preſident and other or ſaid counſail in or marches of Wales, that vagraunt and idle pſons, naming themſelfs mynſtrells, rithmors, and barthes, are lately growen into ſuch an intollerable multitude wth-in the principalitee of Northwales, that not only gentlemen and others, by theire ſhameles diſorders, are oftentimes diſquieted in theire habitacons; but alſo thexpert mynſtrells and muciſions in toune and contry therby much diſcouraged to travail in thexerciſe and practize of theire knowledge; and alſo not a litle hyndred in theire lyvings and pferm. The reformacon wherof, and the putting of theſe people in ordr, the ſaid lorde preſident & counſail have thought verey neceſſarye, and knowing you to be men both of wyſdome and upright dealing, and alſo of experience and good knowledge in the ſcyence, have apointed and authorized you to be comiſſioners for that purpoſe. And foraſmuch as or ſaid counſail of late, travayling in ſome pte of the ſaid principalitee, had pfect: underſtanding or credible report, that thaccuſtomed place for thexecucon of the like comſſyon, hath bene hertofore at Caroyes in our countie of Fflynt; and that William Moſtyn eſquior, and his anceſtr [...] have had the gyfte and beſtowing of the ſylver harpe apptayning to the cheſſ of that facultie, and that a yeares warning at the leaſt hath bene accuſtomed to be geaven of thaſſembly and execucon of the like comiſſyon. Our ſaid counſail have, therfore, apoynted thexecucon [436] of this commiſſyon to be at the ſaid towne of Caroyes, the Monday next aftr the feaſt of the bleſſed Trynitee, wth ſhall be in the yeare of or Lorde God 1568.

AND therfore we require and comand you, by the aucthoritee of theſe pſents, not only to cauſe open pclamacons to be made in all ffayors, mrketts, townes, and other places of aſſembly wthin our counties of Anglize, Carntvon, Meyryonneth, Denhigh, and Fflynt, that all and evry pſon and pſons that entend to maynteigne theire lyvings by name or color of mynſtrells, rithmrs, or barthes, wthin the Talaith of Aberfiowe, comphending the ſaid fyve ſhires, ſhal be and appeare before you the ſaid daye and place, to ſhewe their learnings accordingly: but alſo that you, xxt••, xixen, xviiien, xviien, xvien, xven, xiiiien, xiiien, xii, xin, xen ix, viii, vii, or vi of you whereof youe, Sr Richard Bulkey, Sr Rees Gruffith, Ellice Price, and Wm Moſtyn, Eſquiot•, or iii•• or ii of you, to be of the nombr to repayre to the ſaid place the daye aforſaid, and calling to you ſuch expert men in the ſaid facultie of the Welſhe muſick, as to you ſhall be thought convenient to pceade to thexecucon of the pmiſs, and to admytt ſuch and ſo many as by your wiſdomes and knowledges you ſhall fynde worthy into and undr the degrees heretofore in ſemblable fort, to uſe exerciſe and folowe the [...]yences and facultes of theire pfeſſyons in ſuch decent ordr as ſhall apptaigne to eche of theire degrees, and as yor diſcrecons and wiſdomes ſhall pſeribe unto them, geaving ſtraight monycons and comaundmt in or name and on or behalf to the reſt not worthy that they returne to ſome honeſt labor and due exerciſe, ſuch as they be moſt apte unto for mayntenaunce of their lyvings, [437] upon paine to be taken as ſturdy and idle vacaboundes and to be uſed according to the lawes and ſtatutes pvided in that behalf, letting you wyth or ſaid counſaill look for advertiſemt by due certificatt at your handes of yor doings in thexecucon of the ſaid pmiſs. For ſeeing in any wiſe that upon the ſaid aſſembly the peas and good order be obſerved and kept accordingly, aſſertayning you that the ſaid Willm Moſtyn hath pmiſed to ſee furnyture and things neceſſary pvided for that aſſembly at the place aforſaid.

Signed her Hignes counſaill, in the mrches of WALES.

In conſequence, an Eiſteddfod was held on the 26th of May following: and on this occaſion the following perſons received their degrees:

  • Lewis Edward, were created chief bards of vocal ſong.
  • William Llŷn, were created chief bards of vocal ſong.
  • Owen Evan, alias Gwynedd, were created chief bards of vocal ſong.
  • Simwnt Fychan, were created chief bards of vocal ſong.
  • William Kynwal,—primary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Lewis Menai,—primary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Sion Tudur,—primary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Huw Llyn,—primary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Bedo Haveſp,—primary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Sion Phylip,—primary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Huw Conway,—primary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Ieuan Tew, were created ſecondary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Huw Pennant, were created ſecondary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Howel Keiriog, were created ſecondary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Davydd Alaw,—probationary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Edward Brwynllys,—probationary ſtudents of vocal ſong.
  • Rhys Gelli,—probationary ſtudents of vocal ſong.

INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC.

  • Sion ap Rhys Bencerdd,
    HARP.
    —chief bards and teachers of inſtrumental ſong.
  • William Penllyn,—chief bards and teachers of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Hwlkin Llwyd,—chief bards and teachers of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Thomas Anwyl,
    HARP.
    —chief bards (but not teachers) of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Dd Llwyd ap Sion ap Rhys,—chief bards (but not teachers) of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Edward ab Evan,—chief bards (but not teachers) of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Robt. ap Howel Llanvor,—chief bards (but not teachers) of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Humphrey Goch,—chief bards (but not teachers) of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Richard Glyn,
    HARP.
    —primary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Robert Llwyd,—primary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Evan Penllyn,—primary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Lewis Llanver,—primary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Huw Dai,
    HARP.
    —ſecondary ditto.
  • Huw ap Morus,—ſecondary ditto.
  • Siamas Morlas,—ſecondary ditto.
  • Sion Niwbwrch,—ſecondary ditto.
  • Ellis Gruffydd,—ſecondary ditto.
  • Lewis Berain,
    HARP.
    were created probationary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Ieuan ap Meredydd, were created probationary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Gwalchmai ap Davydd, were created probationary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Siamas Eutyn,
    CRWTH.
    —chief bards and teachers of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Evan Penmon,—chief bards and teachers of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Robert ap Rhys Gyttyn,
    CRWTH.
    —chief bards (but not teachers) of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Thomas Môn,—chief bards (but not teachers) of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Sion Ednyved,—chief bards (but not teachers) of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Thomas Grythor,—chief bards (but not teachers) of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Sion Ddu Grythor,
    CRWTH.
    —primary ſtudent of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Robert ab Evan Llwyd,
    CRWTH.
    ſecondary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Edward Grythor, ſecondary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Thomas Kegidva,—ſecondary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Rhys Grythor Hiraethog,—ſecondary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Thomas Grythor Bâch,—ſecondary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Davydd ab Howel Grythor,—ſecondary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • William Ednyved,—ſecondary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Richard Conway,
    CRWTH.
    —probationary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Sion Alaw,—probationary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Robt. Conway,—probationary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.
  • Crythor Llwyd Marchedd,—probationary ſtudents of inſtrumental ſong.

[440]It muſt be obſerved, that players on crwths with three ſtrings, taborers, and pipers, were reckoned among the ignoble performers: they were not allowed to ſit down, and had only a penny for their pains.

THE different degrees were comprehended in this liſt. There were four in the poetical, and five in the muſical faculty. The loweſt, or more properly what ſhould be called a candidate or probationer, was Y Dyſcybl Yſpâs, or the loweſt diſciple, who was obliged (if a candidate for poetry) to underſtand the contraction or five ſpecies of Englyns, and to compoſe them before a Pencerdd, who was to declare upon his conſcience, that he was endowed with a true poetical genius. After this he commenced

DYSCYBL DYSCYBLAIDD, Diſcipulus diſciplinabilis: here he becomes a graduate, but muſt underſtand twelve of our different metres, and produce ſpecimens of each of his own compoſition, and if in three years time he does not, by his merit, acquire the next degree, he is degraded from this. If he ſucceeds, he then proceeds to the degree of

DYSCYBL PENCEIRDDIAIDD, or candidate for degree of Pencerdd, when he muſt underſtand the propriety of expreſſions, and the different metres, and compoſe in twenty-one ſpecies; and if in three years he does not attain by his own merit to the next degree, he falls back into that of Dyſcybl dyſcyblaidd; otherwiſe he becomes a

PENBARDD or PENCERDD, chief of the faculty he was candidate in; when it is neceſſary he ſhould be accompliſhed in every branch of his art. He then received the badge of the [441] ſilver-harp; or that of a golden or ſilver chain, which he wore upon his ſhoulder. He alſo was placed with much ceremony on a magnificent chair, part of the furnyture mentioned in the patent; was there inveſted with his degree, and then acquired the honorable name of Cadeirfardd, or Bardd cadeiriawg.

IN inſtrumental muſic there were five degrees; which differ nothing from thoſe in the other faculty, except in the two loweſt: I. the Dyſcybl yſpas heb râdd, or without a degree, 2. Dyſcybl yſpas graddawl, or graduated; 3. Dyſcybl dyſcyblaidd; 4. Dyſcybl penceirddiaidd; 5. Pencerdd. Theſe, like the others, were to be attained by their reſpective merits in the ſcience; but as then qualifications are expreſſed in technical terms of Britiſh muſic, it is paſt, my ſkill to give an explanation. None but a Pencerdd ſhould preſume to become an inſtructor. The chief of our days, is that uncommon genius, the blind Mr. JOHN PARRY of RHIWABON, who has had the kingdom for his Cylch clera, or muſical circuit, and remains unrivalled.

OUR PENCERDDS thus qualified, were licenſed to ſing, or to perform under certain reſtrictions. By the law of our princes, particular regard was paid to their morals: ‘They were to be no make-bates, no vagabonds, no ale-houſe haunters, no drunkards, no brawllers, no whore-hunters, no theeves, nor companions of ſuch, in which things, if they offend, everie man, by the ſtatute, is made an officer, and authorized to arreſt and puniſh them; yea, and to take from them all that they have about them*.’

[442]THEY were prohibited from uttering any ſcandalous words in ſpeech or whiſpers; detraction, mocking, ſcoffing, inventing lies, or repeating them after others, under pain of fine and impriſonment: nor were they to make a ſong of any perſon without his conſent; nor to enter any man's houſe without formal leave firſt obtained.

EVERY Penbardd and Pencerdd was allowed to take in diſciples for a certain ſpace of time, but not above one at a time. A diſciple was not qualified to make another. Each was to be with his teacher during Lent, unleſs prevented by ſickneſs or impriſonment, under pain of loſing his degree. He was obliged to ſhew every compoſition to his teacher before it was publicly ſung. They were not to follow the practice of cl̄er y dom, i. e. dunghill bards and muſicians, or any other ſpecies of vagabond minſtrels. They were enjoined a month before each feſtival, to ſettle their routs with their reſpective teachers, leaſt too many of them ſhould crowd to the ſame places; only one being allowed to go to a perſon who paid ten pounds a year rent; and two to ſuch who payed twenty pounds, and ſo on in proportion to thoſe of higher rank: and every teacher was obliged to keep a copy of theſe rules, to ſhew and inculcate to his pupils in time of Lent, when they came for their inſtructions.

No perſon was to mimic, mock, or ſcoff at the awenyddion on account of their mental abſence, or when they had on them the AWEN or poeticus furor; from an opinion that no bard, duly authorized, could ever meditate on improper ſubjects.

To whatſoever houſe they came in the time of wakes, they muſt remain there while the feaſting laſted; unleſs they had leave [443] from the maſter of the houſe, or were invited by another. If they wandered from houſe to houſe, they were to be apprehended as ſtrollers and vagabonds, and to be deprived of their clera *, which was forfeited to the uſe of the church. If they got intoxicated, they forfeited their reward: but if they violated the chaſtity of wife or maid, they were fined and impriſoned, and loſt their clera for ſeven years.

THEIR fees or rewards were regulated. A dyſcybl dyſcyblaidd was entitled to 3 s. 4 d. for his cowydd.

A DYSCYBL PENCEIRDDIAIDD, received for the ſame ſpecies of compoſition 6 s. 9 d.

His teacher, or the Pencerdd, had no more; only the maſter of the houſe uſually preſented him with a garment, or ſome other mark of favor.

THE minſtrels received theſe rewards; a dyſcybl yſpas graddawl had only 1 s. upon each of the great feſtivals.

A DYSCYBL DYSCYBLAIDD, at the ſame ſeaſons 2 s. and a dyſcybl penceirddiaidd 3 s. 4 d.

A PENCERDD the ſame, beſides a voluntary gratuity. He was alſo entitled to fees at royal and other weddings; and upon their cylch clera, which was permitted only once in three years. But beſides theſe fees, in order to encourage the clerwyr to keep up the language and the memory of the exploits and pedigrees of the Britons, they were allowed a penny out of every ploughland, and a halfpenny out of every half ploughland of their diſtrict.

[444]THE Penbardd and Pencerdd, in their circuits, frequented only the houſes of the gentry; but if he degraded himſelf by viſiting the commonalty, he was only to expect the fee of a common clerwr, whoſe province it was to viſit the plebeian houſes. The following were the perſons who were allotted to entertain the vulgar ears.

A PERSON laboring under any infirmity; ſuch as blindneſs, lameneſs, &c. a dyſcybl yſpas, a dyſcybl dyſcyblaidd, and dyſcybl penceirddiaidd. The firſt regulation was founded on humanity.

No public feſtivity, great feaſt, or wedding could be duly ſolemnized without the preſence of the bards and minſtrels. A glorious emulation aroſe among them; and prizes were beſtowed on the moſt worthy. In 1176, the lord Rhys prince of South Wales, made a great feaſt* at Chriſtmas, on account of the finiſhing his new caſtle at Aberteifi; of which he proclamed notice through all Britain a year and a day before; great was the reſort of ſtrangers, who were nobly entertained; ſo that none departed unſatisfied. Among deeds of arms, and variety of ſpectacles, RHYS invited all the bards of Wales, and provided chairs for them, which were placed in his hall, where they fat and diſputed, and ſang, to ſhew their ſkill in their reſpective faculties, and beſtowed great rewards, and rich gifts on the victors. The bards of North Wales won the prizes; but the minſtrels of Rhys's houſhold, excelled in their faculty. On this occaſion the Brawdwr Llys, or judge of the court, an officer fifth in rank, declared aloud the victor, and received from the bard, for his fee, a mighty [445] drinking-horn, made of the horn of an ox; a golden ring, and the cuſhion on which he ſat in his chair of dignity*.

THE bards of thoſe times often accompanied their voices with the harp, as they were wont of old, in the manner deſcribed by Ammianus Marcellinus . There was alſo another ſpecies of muſician, of an inferior kind, called Datceiniad, who accompanied the muſical inſtruments of others with his ſong. He was inferior to both bard and minſtrel; yet it was requiſite he ſhould be poſſeſſed of a conſiderable degree of knowledge in both ſciences: he ought to be able to tune the harp and crwth: to ſhew his ſkill in playing ſeveral notes and keys, and to be perfectly converſant in what are called the twenty-four meaſures of inſtrumental ſong; and to be able to ſing with judgment and melody. He was likewiſe to be maſter of reading juſtly, and writing correctly. He was not only to underſtand the twentyfour modes of metrical compoſitions; but to exhibit ſpecimens of his own, at left in three of them; and if he met with any old ſong faultily tranſcribed, he was to rectify it. He was alſo to carry with him a harp or a crwth in a white caſe. He was further required, not only to be a ready waiter at table, but to be an expert carver of every ſpecies of fowl. At the weddings of any of the royal family, his office was to wait on the bride.

ON thoſe occaſions, I am reminded of another cuſtom in which the bards were concerned. After their nuptial feaſt, a Pencerdd was conſtituted CYFF CLER, or pillar of the clêr, and [446] ſeated in a chair ſurrounded by the other bards ſtanding, who made him the ſubject of their merry and ludicrous compoſitions, to raiſe mirth in the company. He was that day to make no reply; but on the next, he was to divert the hall at the expence of the inferior bards; and was alſo to compoſe a poem upon a ſubject given him ſuitable to his dignity.

THE moſt inferior of the muſical tribe was ſometimes admitted.DATCEINIAD. This was the Datceiniad pen paſtwn, or he that ſung to the ſound of his club; being ignorant of every other kind of inſtrument. When he was permitted to be introduced, he was obliged to ſtand in the middle of the hall, and ſing his cowydd or awdl, beating time, and playing the ſymphony with his paſtwn or club; but if there was a profeſſor of muſic preſent, his leave muſt be firſt obtained before he preſumed to entertain the company with this ſpecies of melody. Wherever he came he muſt act as a menial ſervant to the bard or muſician*.

I SHALL conclude this account of the Eiſteddfods and my Tour, with the deſcription of the poetical genius of the Welſh [447] by Michael Drayton , who elegantly and faithfully records the various perſonages concerned in the entertainments.

''Mongſt whom, ſome there were bards, that in their ſacred rage
'Recorded the deſcents and acts of every age:
'Some with their nimble joints that ſtruck the warbling ſtring,
'In fingering ſome unſkill'd, but us'd to ſing
'To others harp; of which you both might find
'Great plenty, and of both excelling in their kind,
'That as the Stethon oſt obtain'd a victor's praiſe;
'Had won the ſilver harp, and worn Apollo's bays:
'Whoſe verſes they deduc'd from thoſe firſt golden times,
'Of ſundry ſorts of feet, and ſundry ſuits of rhimes.
'In Englins ſome there were, that in their ſubject ſtrain;
'Some makers that again affect a loſtier vein,
'Rehearſe their high conceits in cowyths; other ſome
'In owdells theirs expreſs, as matter haps to come.
'So varying ſtill their moods, obſerving yet in all
'Their quantities, their reſts, their ceaſutes metrical;
'For, to that ſacred art they moſt themſelves apply;
'Addicted from their birth to ſo much poeſy,
'That in the mountains, thoſe who ſcarce have ſeen a book
'Moſt ſkilfully will make, as though from art they took.
FINIS.

Appendix A ADDITIONS.

[448]

PAGE 2 [...]. BASINGWERK ABEY.IN an out-houſe is lodged a ſtone with the following inſcription: IESUS MARIA. HERE. LYETH. TH. Y. BODY. OF. GEORGE. PE. TRE. LATE. OF. GREENFIELD. IN. FLINT SHIRE, Eſq. SONE TO. W. LORD. PETRE BARON. OF. INGLESTON. IN. ESSEX. & MARRIED ANE. E / Y. RELICT. OF. IOHN MOSTOIN. Eſq. BEING.E / Y DAUGHTER OF. HENRY. FOX. Eſq. WHO. FOR. E / Y. RO. MANE. CATHOLIQUE. FAITH. &. LOYAL. TY. TO. HIS. TIE / MA. LEFT HIS. COUNTRY. &. SPENDING. HIS. TIME. T / W. GREAT. EDIFICATION. OF. HIS. NEIGHBOVRS. DIED. AT. WEXFORD E / Y 26 DAY OF SEP. AN. DŌ 1647 AGED 34.

[449]THE following order, for putting the chapel over the well into poſſeſſion of a clergyman of the church of Rome, was addreſed to Sir Roger Moſtyn baronet, by the queen of James II.P. 30 HOLYWELL.

Appendix A.1

Sir ROGER MOSTYN.

IT having pleaſed the king, by his royall grant, to beſtow upon me ye antient chappell adjoining to St. Winifride's well; theſe are to deſire you to give preſent poſeſion, in my name, of the ſaid chappell, to Mr. Thomas Roberts, who will deliver this letter into yr hands. It being alſo my intention to have the place decently repaired, and put to a good uſe, I further deſire, that you will affoard him your favour and protection, than he may not be diſturbed in the performance thereof. You may reſt aſſured, that what you do herein, according to my deſire, ſhall be very kindly remembered by

Your good friend, MARY: REGINA.

ROBERT DAVIES Eſq of Llannerch, by deed, dated October 10th, 1626, gave the advowſon of Holywell to JESUS College Oxford; that is to ſay, as often as the vicarage ſhall become vacant, the ſaid Robert Davies and his heirs, ſhall freely and charitatis intuitu, et abſque aliqua moroſa cunctatione, preſent a native of Wales, rightfully and canonically nominated by the college.

NEAR GADLYS ſmelting works is a lofty round mount, flat at top.p. 85. GADLYS. On this had probably been a caſteler, the reſidence of [450] ſome of our princes; which gave riſe to the name GADLY's Palatium Caſtrenſe. This may, perhaps, be a better reaſon than that which I aſſign; notwithſtanding, I believe it to be the ſpot occupied by Henry.

THAT Edward I.P. 43. FLINT. enlarged the caſtle of Flint greatly, and that Henry II. was only the founder of a ſmall fortreſs on that ſpot, is evident from theſe complaints of the Welſh in 1281: ‘That the noble and beſt of the countrie be injured; for that the king builded the caſtell of Flynt upon their ground; and the king commanded the juſtices to give the men as much and as good ground, or the price: but they are ſpoiled of their lands, and have neither other lands nor monie.’ Powel, 361.

ABOUT a mile above Flint is another great mount of the ſame kind, called Bryn y cwn.

EULO was reckoned an appertenance to Montalto or Mold. MS. notes to a copy of Powel's history of Wales, lent by Edward Lloyd Eſq of Pengwern. P. 87. EULO.

Was burnt by Llewelyn after king John had diveſted him of it.P. 232. ELLESMERE.

A REMARKABLE circumſtance, which put a ſtop to much cruelty exerciſed by ordonnance of parlement againſt the native Iriſh, who ſerved in England in the royal army during the civil wars, happened at this place Prince Rupert, in one of his marches across this country, halted at Elleſmere, and determined, by retaliation, to revenge the deaths of the Iriſh ſufferers; thirteen [451] of that kingdom had lately been executed by the parlement army in cool blood. Here the prince ordered the priſoners whom he had in poſſeſſion, to caſt lots for their lives on the drum-head; and the thirteen on whom the fatal deſtiny fell, to be hanged. The die was caſt, and the unfortunate men ſelected. While preparation was making for their execution, one of them (Philip Littleton) who had been park-keeper to Robert Corbet Eſq of Stanwardine, ſaw Sir Vincent Corbet of Moreton Corbet ride by, who was in the prince's army. Littleton told a ſoldier, that he was ſure if Sir Vincent knew he was there, he would intercede for him. The ſoldier, with great humanity, ran to the knight, and informed him of the caſe; who immediately obtained his pardon. The reſt were executed, and after this, no more Iriſh were put to death in this kingdom.

Communicated from a MS. by the reverend Mr. Edwards.

THE Kynaſtons are of Welſh deſcent, derived from Bleddyn ap Cynvyn prince of Powis.P. 234. OTTLBY.Fadoc, ſon of Philip ap Gryffydd, was the firſt who took the name of Kynaſton.

THEY became maſters of Ottley or Ockle, as it has been some time written, by the marriage of Humphrey Kynaſton Eſq of Stokes, with Elizabeth, daughter and heireſs of Richard Ottley of this place. He was granfaher to Sir Francis, mentioned p. 234. SALUSBURY Pedigree.

THIS celebrated book is in the poſſeſſion of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who favored me with the loan of it. It contains the pedigrees of all the gentlemen in North Wales, and of ſome adjacent [452] counties, with their arms finely illuminated. It was compiled by John Saluſbury Eſq of Erbiſtock, who lived about the middle of the laſt century, and appears to have executed it with great accuracy.

WAS garriſoned for the king in the beginning of the civil wars.P 258. O [...]TRY. The governor fortified it very ſtrongly; and, leaſt the enemy ſhould annoy the place from the tower ſteeple, pulled it down to the body of the church, part of which he alſo demoliſhed. It was beſieged by general Mytton, who placed his cannon againſt the new gate, which he ſoon demoliſhed. A bold and daring young man, named George Cranage, went with his hatchet, and cut down the chains of the draw-bridge. The parlement forces then entered, and obliged the royaliſts to retire into the caſtle. Cranage was then perſuaded to hang a buttar (petard) at the caſtle gate. After being well animated with ſack, he undertook this deſperate attempt: crept with the engine from houſe to houſe, till he got to that next to the caſtle; faſtened it to the gate, ſet fire to it, and eſcaped unhurt. The gate was burſt open, and the place taken. Mr. Edwards's MSS.

IN July 1644, Oſweſtry was beſieged by the king's forces under colonel Marrow. Sir Thomas Middleton relieved the place; took 200 common ſoldiers, 7 carriages, and 100 horſe.

Whiteclock, 94.

AFTER the death of the king, this fortreſs was totally demoliſhed.

[453]FROM Chirk, I made an excurſion to Brynkinallt, about a mile below the village.P. 270. BRYNKINALLT. This had been the ſeat of the Trevors, deſcended from Ednyved Gam, a deſcendant of Tudor Trevor.

THE houſe is of brick, built in 1619. In it is a good portrait of Sir John Trevor, maſter of the rolls, in the robes of his office, ſitting. He enjoyed that place both in the reign of James II. and of William III. He was able, dextrous, and enterprizing; and in the reign of the firſt, had the diſgraceful compliment paid to him of being the deſigned ſucceſſor in the chancellorſhip to Jefferies, in caſe it was poſſible that the laſt could have been affected with any ſcruples. King William found it neceſſary to make uſe of Trevor, who was made firſt lord commiſſioner of the great ſeal, and privy counſellor. He had been ſpeaker of the houſe of commons in each reign. In that of William, he is recorded to have been the firſt who managed a party by buying of votes, for which purpoſe he was intruſted with money by the court; but in 1694-5, was expelled the houſe for receiving a bribe of a thouſand guineas from the city of London, in order to expedite the paſſing of the Orphan bill, which had long ſtuck in the houſe; and which he ought to have done from the ſole motive of juſtice and compaſſion. The commons deſigned to have proceeded againſt him by impeachment; but the affair dropt by the prorogation of parkment.

[454]By the marriage of his daughter Anne, in 1690, to Michael Hill Eſq this place paſſed into this family; and is now poſſeſſed by Arthur lord Dungannon of the kingdom of Ireland, deſcended from Arthur Hill Eſq ſecond ſon of that match.

IN February 1645-6, colonel Watts governor of the caſtle, delivered it, furniſhed with bread and beer, to Sir Thomas Middleton's daughter for her father's uſe; but firſt raiſed contributions on the neighborhood.P. 272. CHIRK CASTLE. He then marched towards the king, at that time at Welſh Pool; but was ſurpriſed by the country people, and his waggons taken. Moſtyn MSS.

IT is ſingular that the antient Britons ſhould make ſo light of the crime intended, when one nation of our Celtic anceſtors, the Germans, inflicted the moſt cruel puniſhment on the female offenders at leſt.P. 274. PARAGRAPH FOURTH. Tacitus de Mor. Germ.

EDWARD I.P. 278. LLANGOLLEN. by charter to Roger Mortimer, dated July 16th, 1684, grants a market every Sunday to his manor of Llangollen, and two fairs annually. Both were to continue three days: the firſt began on the eve of St. Dunſtar; the other on that of St. Martin, in the winter. This charter was witneſſed by biſhop of Bath and Wells; Henry de Lecy, earl of Lincoln; Richard de Burgh, earl of U [...]; Reginald, de Grey; John de Montalto; and others. Communicated by Paul Panton Eſq

[455]I BEG leave to correct a ſmall error reſpecting the ſite of this poſt; it not being between Offa's and Wat's dikes; but about two hundred yards to the outſide of the former.P. 290 GARTHEN.

CALLED antiently Wrighteſham, and Wrighteleſham. P. 291. WREXHAM.

Appendix B

[]
ERRATA.
  • Page 2. for Welch, read read Welſh
  • Page 3. Allen, read Alun
  • Maelwr, read Maelor
  • Page 4. Tegangle, read Tegengl
  • Rudland, read Rhuddlan
  • Mynnydd, read Mynydd
  • Page 11. Eiſteddfad, read Eiſteddfod
  • Page 14. Llandidno, read Llandudno
  • Llandulas, read Llanddulas
  • Page 19. Llannerchymor, read Llannerchy môc
  • Page 26. Baſingwerſt, read Baſingwerk
  • Page 28. Angared, read Angharad
  • Page 32. Hidgen, read Higden
  • Page 38. Llandeniolen, read Llanddeiniolen
  • Page 44. Malgon, read Maelgwn
  • Page 45. Penmai [...], read Penmaen
  • Page 53. Bagilt, read Bagillt
  • Page 60. Silley, read Scilly
  • Page 66. note, curea, read aurea
  • Page 74. Bromefield, read Bromfield
  • Page 81. Brunford, read Brynffordd
  • Page 83. Malgwyn, read Maelgwn
  • Enion, read Einion
  • Page 91. Hawardin, read Hawarden
  • Page 107. Septimus, read Septimius
  • Page 116. Gwinedd, read Gwynedd
  • Page 118. Brochmail, read Brochwel
  • Page 123. Gryffyd, read Gryffydd
  • Page 178. Meſchina, read Meſchines
  • Page 190. Haggarth, read Haygarth
  • Page 209. note, Cirreg, read Cerrig
  • Page 221. Amobyr, read Amobr
  • Page 234 line 13. e, read the
  • Page 239. bovarii, read boveria
  • Page 250. laſt l. houſe, read uſe
  • Page 319. Comhere, read Cwm hir
  • Page 320. Strathfleur, read Y ſtrad fflur
  • Page 324. Dolgellu, read Dolgelleu
  • Page 370. line 10. duo, read du o
  • Page 386. Avidus, read avidas
  • Page 401. Brynkinalt, read Brynkinallt
  • Page 413. dele Firt in margin
  • Page 416. alters, read alter
  • Page 424 paged 244
  • Page 433. l. 23. loug, read long

Appendix C INDEX.

[]
A
  • ACTON houſe Page. 296
  • Ad Dietam Page. 162
  • Agricla Bwlch Page. 388
  • Album monaſterium Page. 249
  • Alfred beſieges the Danes in Cheſter Page. 119
  • Amobr, what Page. 221
  • Angleſea, men fined for being concerned with Glyndwr Page. 357
  • Antiquities, Roman, found near Flint Page. 67
  • Arenaria ſaxatilis Page. 19
  • Aſſach, whre Page. 364
  • Aſſaſſinatioa in Cheſter cathedral Page. 181
  • Aſſaſſins, determined reſolution of Page. 276
  • Atiſcroſs hundred, part of Flintſhire Page. 6, 50
B
  • Balderton bridge, Welſh defeated at Page. 105
  • Bangor, famous ſeminary Page. 222
  • Bangor,
    • monks of, ſtrenuous oppoſers of the church of Rome Page. 224
    • curious coffin-lids at ibid.
  • Baſingwerk
    • caſtle Page. 22
    • abby Page. 24
    • epitaph there on a Petre. Page. 448
  • Battle of
    • Cheſter Page. 118
    • Coleſhill Page. 85
    • Eulo ibid.
    • Crogen Page. 268
  • Biſhopric of Cheſter Page. 172
  • Bettisfield Page. 219
  • Bodidin houſe Page. 379
  • Bordarii, what Page. 6
  • Bovium Page. 224
  • Brâ, Caſtell Dinas Page. 279
  • Braſs
    • made by the Britons Page. 62
    • works of, imported in queen Elizabeth's time Page. 78
  • Britiſh poſts Page. 413
  • Broadlane,
    • ſeat of the Glynnes Page. 101
    • fine portraits there ibid.
  • Broughton,
    • near Hawarden Page. 104
    • in Maelor Page. 216
  • Brutus the elder, fine buſt of Page. 10
  • Bryn y pys Page. 229
  • []Bryn Yorkin Page. 406
  • Bwlch y Rhiw Velen Page. 376
  • Bychton Page. 14
  • Byſſus Jolothus Page. 38
C
  • Caer Ogyrfan Page. 258
  • Caergwrle Page. 402
    • caſtle Page. 404
  • Calamine,
    • the cadmia of the antients Page. 63
    • its uſe forgot for many centuries ibid.
  • Cangi Page. 4
  • Carreg Carn March Arthur Page. 390
  • Caryocatactes, a bird Page. 20
  • Caſtell Brogyntyn Page. 262
  • Ceangi Page. 4
  • Ceiriog brook Page. 267
  • Charles VII. of France, his alliance with Glyndwr Page. 341
  • Cheeſe making, its antiquity Page. 117, 129
  • Chert Page. 18
  • Cheſter, not Britiſh Page. 106
    • ſtation of the Legio XX. victrix. Colonia Devana Page. 107
    • excavated ſtreets Page. 108
    • great vaults, loſt Page. 109
    • Roman gate Page. 110
    • hypocauſt Page. 111
    • other antiquities, altars, &c. Page. 113
    • Saxon, ſtate of Page. 118
    • battle of, ibid.
  • Cheſter, Danes,
    • winter there Page. 119
    • guild mercatory Page. 127
    • trade in Saxon times Page. 128
    • in the Norman Page. 132
    • its Whitſon plays Page. 137
    • beſieged Page. 148
  • Cheſter
    • bridge and bridge-gate Page. 150
    • mills Page. 151, 152
    • water-works Page. 153
    • walls ibid.
    • water-tower Page. 156
    • eaſt gate Page. 157
    • caſtle Page. 158
    • jail Page. 161
    • charters Page. 164
    • praetorium Page. 168
    • abby Page. 174
    • chapter-houſe Page. 177
    • cathedral Page. 179
    • St. John's Page. 187
    • preſent trade Page. 196
    • quays Page. 197
    • canal Page. 199
  • Chirk
    • church Page. 268
    • caſtle Page. 270
    • given up by Col. Watts Page. 454
  • Clwydian hills Page. 411
  • Coal known to the Britons Page. 17
  • Coed Eulo, battle there Page. 85
  • Coleſhill Page. 40
    • battle near Page. 85
  • Collieries Page. 15
  • Copper Page. 62
    • Roman cake of Page. 11, 63
  • Condolanus, where ſlain Page. 238
  • Coracles Page. 225
  • Crogen caſtle Page. 270
D
  • Damps in mines Page. 423
  • Datceiniad Pen Paſtwn Page. 446
  • David,
    • prince, ſurpriſes Hawarden Page. 92
    • put to death by Edward I. ibid.
  • Davits, Edward, the Cneifiwr glâs Page. 375
  • Deva, Devana Page. 107
  • Dietam ad, what Page. 162
  • Dinoth, St. Page. 222
  • Domitian, his name on a pig of lead Page. 57
E
  • Earls of Cheſter,
    • their antient dignity nearly regal Page. 125
    • hold a parlement ibid.
  • Eaton, in Cheſhire Page. 202
  • Eccleſton Page. 201
  • Edgar
    • lays up his fleet at Cheſter Page. 123
    • rowed up the Dee by ſix petty kings ibid.
  • Edwin,
    • earl of Cheſter Page. 123
    • owns Flintſhire at the conqueſt Page. 7
  • Eiſteddfod Page. 427
  • Eleven towns 257
  • Eliſeg, pillar of Page. 373
  • Elleſmere Page. 230
    • remarkable event there Page. 450
  • Emral hall Page. 220
  • Englefield Page. 7
  • Erbiſtock Page. 215
  • Erddig houſe Page. 291
  • Ethelfleda the heroic, her hiſtory Page. 120
  • Eulo
    • caſtle Page. 84
    • battle near, Page. 85
    • potteries, at Page. 87
    • an appertenance to Mold Page. 450
  • Eurgen, St. Page. 83
  • Exchequer in Cheſter Page. 162
  • Exploſion, dreadful, at Cheſter Page. 170
  • Eyton in Denbighſhire Page. 226
  • Eyton, John op Ellis, his tomb Page. 286
F
  • Falcon, long flight of one Page. 8
  • Farn Page. 203
  • Feſta aſinaria Page. 143
  • Fire-brick Page. 87
  • Fitz-alans, earls of Arundel Page. 252
  • Fitz-warine, a valiant family Page. 239
  • Flint
    • town Page. 41
    • caſtle Page. 42
    • a Roman ſtation ibid.
    • antiquities found near Page. 50, 67
    • complaint of the men of Page. 450
  • Flintſhire Page. 2
    • by whom ſubdued Page. 5
    • revenues of the county in the time of Edward III. Page. 49
  • Fwyall, Sir Howel y, his grant of Cheſter mills Page. 151
  • Ffynnon Leinw Page. 412
G
  • Gadl's Page. 85
  • Gam David,
    • an account of Page. 335
    • when releaſed Page. 362
  • Galanas, a Welſh mulct Page. 274
  • Garreg, fine view from, Page. 13
  • Garthen, the,
    • a Britiſh poſt Page. 290
    • a miſtake about it rectified Page. 455
  • Gelli chapel Page. 13
  • Germanus, St. Page. 380, 389
  • Geſtes of Guarine Page. 244
  • Gherbod earl of cheſter Page. 124.
  • Glaſs, Roman Page. 68
  • Gliſſeg
    • rocks Page. 301
    • valley Page. 375
  • Glyndwr, Owen,
    • his hiſtory Page. 302 to 369
    • his priſon Page. 362
  • Glynne, chief juſtice, his portrait and character Page. 101
  • Gobowen Page. 259
  • Goch Jolo, Glyndwr's bard Page. 304
  • Gold
    • found in Britain Page. 64
    • a temptation to the Roman invaſion ibid.
    • the Britons early acquainted with its uſes Page. 66
  • Greyhound, ſingular ſtory of one Page. 47
  • Gresford Page. 298
  • Grey, Reginald, lord, oppreſſes Glyndwr Page. 309
  • Groſvenour, vaſt mineral grant to the family Page. 74
  • Gryffydd ap Madog,
    • his treaſon Page. 280
    • murder of his children by earl Warren Page. 210, 280
  • Guarine, founder of the Fitzwarrens Page. 239
  • Gwernhailed Page. 228
  • Gwerth Page. 274
  • Gwynedd, Howel, beheaded on Moel y Gaer 83
  • Gwynedd, Owen
    • defeats Henry II. at Coleſhill 85
    • his ſons defeat the flower of Henry's army ibid.
  • Gwyſaney 393
  • Gyrys, the firſt collector of Welſh proverbs Page. 388
H
  • Halkin,
    • fine view from Page. 73
    • church Page. 81
  • Halſton Page. 234
  • Hanbridge Page. 106
  • Hanmer Page. 217
    • Sir Jenkin, ſlain at the battle of Shrewſhury Page. 339
  • Harp, ſilver Page. 11
  • Hartſheath Page. 401
  • Hawardan caſtle,
    • Saxon owner Page. 89
    • Norman Page. 90
    • ceded to Llewelyn the great Page. 91
    • ſurpriſed by David ap Gryffydd Page. 92
    • granted to Montacute earl of Salisbury Page. 93
    • to Sir John Stanley Page. 94
    • acquired by chief juſtice Glynne Page. 95
    • beſieged Page. 96
  • []Hawarden rectory, great Page. 101
  • Henry VII. protected at Moſtyn Page. 9
  • Hên Ddinas Page. 258
  • Henry prince of Wales, his early valour, paſſim in the account of Glyndwr
  • Heſpalun 410
  • Hilbree iſle Page. 19
  • Holt Page. 204, 211
  • Holywell Page. 38
    • caſtle ibid.
    • ſtream, its greatneſs and utility Page. 39
  • Hope Page. 406
  • Hotſpur
    • joins with Glyndwr Page. 334
    • ſlaia Page. 339
I
  • Jefferies,
    • lord chancellor, his portrait, and hiſtory Page. 296
    • Sir Thomas, his portrait ibid.
  • Interment, antient mode of Page. 381 to 388
  • Jolo Goch, a bard of Glyndwr Page. 305
  • Ithyphallus, an amulet Page. 71
  • Iron mines, Roman Page. 64
  • Jungermannia, a moſs Page. 37
K
  • Kilken Page. 411
  • Kymhorthau, what Page. 366
  • Kynaſtons, their deſcent Page. 451
L
  • Latimer, or interpreter between the Welſh and Engliſh Page. 241
  • Lead,
    • antient ſtate of its mines, &c. Page. 51
    • Roman pigs of Page. 55
    • Roman regulations in reſpect to mining Page. 51, 57
    • ſilver extracted from it by the Romans Page. 58
    • lead, how ſmelted by the Britons ibid.
    • mines worked by the Saxons ibid.
  • Leeſwood Page. 399
  • Llanarmon Page. 380
  • Llandyſilio Page. 301
  • Llangegla Page. 378
  • Llangollen Page. 278
    • its bridge Page. 279
  • Llanverres Page. 389
  • Lleuci Llwyd, her ſtory Page. 85
  • Llowarch Hên Page. 376
  • Llwyd, Gryffydd, chief bard to Glyndwr Page. 310
  • Llys Edwin Page. 82
  • Lupus, Hugh,
    • earl of Cheſter Page. 124
    • his hall in Cheſter caſtle Page. 159
  • Lyrewyte Page. 222
M
  • Maelor Saeſneg Page. 215
  • Maeſgarmon Page. 408
  • []Maen achwynfan, an antient croſs Page. 12
  • March, earl of, an attempt to ſteal away Page. 344
  • Marcheta mulierum Page. 221
  • Maſerfield Page. 247
  • Merton Page. 6
    • grievances of the inhabitants in Edward I. time Page. 14
  • Middletons of Chirk-caſtle Page. 271
  • Mineral property in the time of
    • Edward I. Page. 75
    • Henry VI. ibid.
    • Edward IV. and Henry VII. Page. 77
    • Elizabeth ibid.
    • not ſecured to the ſubject till the Revolution Page. 80, 81
  • Mineral tract Page. 416
  • Mines in Wales, what Page. 213
  • Mines royal, ſociety for, when founded Page. 78
  • Mining, Roman, ſtate of Page. 51
  • Moel Venlli Page. 389
  • Moel Famma Page. 410
  • Moel y Gaer, a Britiſh poſt above Northop Page. 83
  • Mold 390 to Page. 398
  • Mortimer, Sir Edmund, taken by Glyndwr Page. 329
  • Moſs, ſweet, in St. Winefrede's well Page. 37
  • Moſtyn Page. 8
    • ſingular portrait at Page. 10
  • Myſteries and moralities, the old religious Drama Page. 138
  • Mythras, ſtatue of Page. 116
  • Myfanwy Vechan, an ode to Page. 281
  • Mytton, Mr. William, his MSS. Page. 236
N
  • Names, when firſt abridged in Wales Page. 12
  • Nannerel Page. 415
  • Nant y Bele, romantic view from Page. 288
  • Noah, the myſtery of a curious performance at Cheſter Page. 140
  • Northop Page. 83
O
  • Offa's dike Page. 259
  • Oldford Page. 203
  • Ordovices Page. 1, 3
  • Oſwald, St. his hiſtory Page. 246
  • Oſweſtry Page. 246
    • church and monaſtery Page. 248, 251
    • caſtle Page. 252
    • taken in the civil wars of Charles I. Page. 452
    • old Page. 258
  • Owl little, the true Athenian Page. 229
  • Overton Page. 226
  • Owen, Sir John,
    • his hiſtory Page. 263
    • epitaph Page. 266
P
  • Parfew, biſhop of St. Aſaph Page. 393
  • Pelagius, a monk of Banger Page. 223
  • Pen y Llwch, or Hawarden Page. 89
  • Penbedw Page. 412
  • Pengwern Page. 278
  • Perry river Page. 235
  • []Pick axes, antient Page. 53
  • Pier on the Dee at Wepre Page. 88
  • Plague at Cheſter Page. 147, 150
  • Plâs-têg Page. 401
  • Poem to
    • Owen Glyndwr Page. 311
    • Myfanwy Vechan Page. 281
  • Porkington Page. 262
  • Poſts, Britiſh, on the ſummits of the hills Page. 83
    • their uſes ibid.
  • Poſts, Britiſh Page. 413
  • Powyſland, brief account of Page. 206 to 210
  • Puleſtons Page. 220
  • Putecaine Page. 6
R
  • Radman, what Page. 41
  • Richard II. taken at Flint Page. 45
  • Robert of Sicily, a play acted at Cheſter Page. 136
  • Rod, divining Page. 53
  • Rood eye at Cheſter Page. 190
  • Rafts, the, a Britiſh poſt Page. 300
  • Royal mine, what Page. 80, 81
S
  • Sacheverel, Doctor Page. 267
  • Saltney marſh, granted to the monks of Baſingwerk Page. 105
  • Saluſhury pedigree-book Page. 451
  • Sandford, captain, his curious letter Page. 98
  • Sele, Howel, account of Page. 344
  • Sellatyn Page. 262
    • church Page. 266
  • Seteia eſtuarium Page. 2
  • Shartar Gwtta Page. 253
  • Shocklach Page. 214
  • Shropſhire Page. 229
  • Sicily, king Robert of, an antient morality Page. 136
  • Silver, Britiſh, known to the Romans Page. 66
  • Smelting,
    • Britiſh Page. 58
    • Roman Page. 51-55
  • Stanlies, their property in Flintſhire Page. 82, 87
  • Stews, public, at Cheſter Page. 145
  • Stratalun Page. 390
  • Stylus found near Flint Page. 71
  • Sweating ſickneſs at Cheſter Page. 135
  • Sycharth, the ſeat of Owen Glyndwr Page. 306
T
  • Tecla, St. her well Page. 379
  • Tegengl Page. 4
  • Threapwood Page. 217
  • Tin
    • early exported by the Phaenicians Page. 60
    • worked by the Romans Page. 61, 62
  • Tombs
    • at Northop Page. 84
    • at Chirk Page. 269
    • Rhiwabon Page. 284
    • Wrexham Page. 292
    • Gresford Page. 300
    • Hope Page. 407
    • Mold Page. 393
    • Llanarmon Page. 380
  • Tommen y Rhodwydd Page. 377
  • Tower, remarkable event at Page. 399
  • Tranſmutation of metals, antient opinion of Page. 75
  • []Trevalun 300
  • Tudor Trevor 238, Page. 278
  • Tyſilio, St. Page. 301
V
  • Valle Crucis Page. 369
    • abby ibid.
  • Victoria Alleluiatica Page. 408
  • Virrgula divinatoria Page. 53
  • Vitilia Navigia Page. 225
  • Vulture, a new ſpecies Page. 228
W
  • Walcheria Page. 257
  • Warner, lady, her ſtory Page. 0219
  • Warton, biſhop of St. Aſaph, vide PARFEW
  • Wat's dike 21, Page. 259
  • Wedge, Roman, found in a lead mine Page. 53
  • Wenefrede, St.
    • her well Page. 28
    • life Page. 31
    • chapel, order relating to Page. 449
  • Wepre Page. 88
  • Werburgh, St. her ſhrine Page. 181
  • Weregeld Page. 273
  • Whiff, a ſpecies of flounder Page. 244
  • Whiteford,
    • Widford Page. 6
    • its products Page. 15
  • Whiteminſter Page. 249
  • Whitſon plays acted at Cheſter Page. 137
  • Whittington Page. 237
    • caſtle Page. 244
    • church Page. 245
  • Wrexham Page. 291
  • Woburyhill,
    • a ſuppoſed camp of Glyndwr Page. 351
    • wooden caſtle Page. 377
  • Wynn-ſtay houſe Page. 288
  • Wynn, Sir Watkin Williams, his epitaph Page. 287
  • Wynn, Sir Richard, his portrait Page. 289
  • Wynne, rev. doctor, his epitaph Page. 394
Y
  • Ynyr ap Howel, &c. Page. 379
  • Yonge, Gryffydd, Glyndwr's chancellor, and embaſſador to France Page. 342
  • Younge, Richard, biſhop of Bangor Page. 326

Appendix D PROPOSALS For Publiſhing by SUBSCRIPTION, FROM AN ACTUAL SURVEY, A Large Six-Sheet, and alſo a Smaller MAP, of the Six Counties of NORTH WALES.

[]
CONDITIONS.
  • I. That the Dimenſions of the Large Map ſhall be Five Feet Six by Four Feet Three Inches, and the Small one Two Feet Ten Inches by Two Feet One Inch and an Half.
  • II. That all Market-Towns, Villages, Gentlemen's Seats, and other Places of Note, ſhall be inſerted.
  • III. That all the Rivers and Public Roads ſhall be truly delineated.
  • IV. That this Work ſhall be executed by the ableſt Hands in the ſeveral Branches of Engraving, and delivered to Subſcribers by Chriſtmas next; the Large Map at Two Guineas, and the Small one at Ten Shillings and Sixpence; the one half to be paid at the Time of ſubſcribing, and the Remainder on Delivery.
  • V. That the Subſcriptions ſhall remain in the ſeveral Treaſurers Hands, and be returned in caſe of Non-performance.

*⁎* SUBSCRIPTIONS are received by Meſſ. R. MORRIS, Preſident of the Cymrodorion Society, at the Tower; WALE and GWYNN, Little-Court, Caſtle-Street, and E. EVANS, George-yard, Lombard ſtreet, London; J. FLETCHER, Bookſeller, Oxford; CARDEN and BISHOP, Mercers, Worceſter; R.GRIFFITHS and E. LOYD, Cheſter; VENABLES and NEWSHAM, Liverpool; S. PRYSE and T. WOOD, Salop; L. JONES, Oſweſtry; J.H. JONES, Lanfyllin; J. WILLIAMS, Pool; A. POOL, New town; M. HUGHES, Bala; R. TYBBOTS, Machynlleth; H.JONES, Caernarvon; W. OWEN, Conwy; R. HUGHFS, Langauhafal; W. EVANS, Holywell; L. KNOWLES, Gwyndy, Angleſea; and the Publiſher, at Lwynygroes, near Oſweſtry, Salop.

A Liſt of Subſcribers will be Engraved in the Large Map.

N. B. The Work is now under the Engraver's Hands.

Appendix E LATELY PUBLISHED,

[]

BRITISH ZOOLOGY, VOL. IV.

Containing the Hiſtory of the WORMS, CRUSTACEA, and SHELLS; illuſtrated with Ninety-Four Plates, printed in Quarto and Octavo, to complete the Three Firſt Volumes.

ALSO, FLORA SCOTICA: OR, A SYSTEMATIC ARRANGEMENT, IN THE LINNAEAN METHOD, OF THE NATIVE PLANTS OF SCOTLAND AND THE HEBRIDES. By JOHN LIGHTFOOT, A. M. Chaplain to the Ducheſs Dowager of PORTLAND.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

LONDON: PRINTED FOR THE AUTHORS. M,DCC,LXXVII,

Appendix F SUPPLEMENTAL PLATES TO THE TOURS in WALES.

[]

Appendix F.1

THESE Plates, the firſt efforts of Moſes Griffith in the art of Etching, will, he flatters himſelf, be on that account candidly received. What they want in elegance, is made up in fidelity; for they give the moſt juſt idea of what they are intended to repreſent.

HE has this year received his manu-miſſion, and preferring a quiet life to the hazard of embarking in a ſtormy and tumultuous world, has lately ſettled himſelf in a ſmall retreat under my wing. He offers his pencil to the public, as far as its uſes can extend, compatible with his plan of retirement; and, having had the liberty of communicating moſt of the drawings he has made for me, poſſeſſes the means of gratifying, in many reſpects, the wiſhes of the curious. His illuminations of the margins [2] of the ſecond Volume of my Tour in Wales, will be no ſmall ornament to thoſe copies, on which he has, beſtowed his labors. I take the liberty of mentioning this to the public, that the merits of a worthy, ſober, and ingenious Man, an almoſt ſelf-taught genius, may receive more ample reward than an individual has in his power to beſtow.

THOMAS PENNANT.

Appendix F.2

[3]

Appendix F.2.1 PLATE I. p. 27.

IN the porch of the church of Whichurch, near Denhigh, is a braſs plate, on which are engraven, kneeling, RICHARD MIDDLETON, governor of Denhigh Caſtle, and JANE his wife, daughter of Hugh Dryhurſt, of Denhigh. She died December the 3d, 1565, aet. 40: he, February the 8th, 1575, aet. 67. Behind him are nine ſons: behind her, ſeven daughters.—Of the ſons,

  • 1. RICHARD married Jane, daughter and ſole heireſs of John ap John, of Wepra. He was likewiſe owner of Cadogan-Hall, near Wrexbam, forfeited on the execution of John Jones, Eſq for his concern in Babbington's conſpiracy. It was alledged againſt him, that he had lent a horſe to Thomas Saluſbury, of Llewenni, to promote his eſcape; and that he had harboured ſome of the perſons concerned in the treaſon. He ſeems not to have taken an active part in it, but through friendſhip to Saluſbury, had concealed what he had in vain attempted to diſſuade him from.
  • 2. SIMON.
  • 3. WILLIAM, the ſea officer, and noted Poet.
  • 4. THOMAS, Lord Mayor of London.
  • 5. HUGH, the great benefactor to our Capital,
  • [4]6. CHARLES, ſucceſſor to his father in the government of Denbigh Caſtle.
  • 7. ROBERT.
  • 8. FOULK, married to the daughter and heireſs of —Wynne, of Bodlithe, or Plâs Newydd, in Llanſilin.
  • 9. PIERCE.

THE daughters were JANE, LUCE, MARGARET, ELYN, ALICE, GRACE, and BARBARA.

[See page 27, where the inſcription is given.]

Appendix F.2.2 PLATE II. p. 52.

  • 1. A View and Plan of Ruthen Caſtle, taken from a drawing in the Britiſh Muſeum, repreſenting its ſtate before the civil wars.
  • 2. Plan of Caſtle Corndochon, p. 73.

Appendix F.2.3 PLATE III. p. 61.

  • 1. A Croſs in the church-yard of Derwen, in Denbighſhire; not viſited in my Tour.
  • 2. The Croſs in Corwen church-yard.

Appendix F.2.4 PLATE IV. p. 87.

[5]
  • 1. The tomb of Gryffydd ap Ynir Vychan, in Dolgelleu Church.
  • 2. The Coffin of Llewellyn ap Jorwerth, Prince of Wales, at preſent in Llanrwſt church. He died in 1240, and was interred in the abby of Conway.

Appendix F.2.5 PLATE V. p. 93.

  • 1. The ſtone in Gwytherin church-yard, p. 48, inſcribed Vinnemcili fili Senemcili.
  • 2. Stone at Towyn, which I cannot make out.
  • 3. Another with Paſcent. i. e. Paſcentius.
  • 4. A fourth in the church-yard of Llanvyhangle y Tratheu, in Meirioneddſhire, inſcribed Hi [...] eſt ſepulcrum WLEDERMATIS Odeleu qui primum edificavit hanc eccleſiam in tempore EWINI Regis.

Appendix F.2.6 PLATE VI. p. 102.

Caſtell Pryſor, in Meirioneddſhire.

Appendix F.2.7 PLATE VII. p. 140.

[6]

View of Upper and Lower Gwedir, and the great Rock Carreg y Gwa [...]b.

Appendix F.2.8 PLATE VIII. p. 151.

View of the grand groupe of ſtones on Glyder Bach.

Appendix F.2.9 PLATE IX, p. 152.

View downwards of the Trevaen, from the gap in the Glyder Bach.

Appendix F.2.10 PLATE X.

  • 1. The Altar mentioned in the account of CHESTER, vol. i. p. 14.
  • 2. Another, diſcovered in digging the foundation of a new row of houſes in the Watergate-Street, in the Yatch field. This beautiful altar was addreſſed by the family and freemen of a certain perſon, Fortunae reduci et Aeſculapio. The emblems of [7] thoſe two deities, and various ſacrificial inſtruments, are engraven on the ſides. The inſcription is extremely injured.
FINIS.

Appendix F.3

[1]
SCULPTURE IN THE PORCH OF WHICHURCH.

Appendix F.4

[2]
1. RU [...]THEN CASTLE. 2 CASTELL CORNDORHON.

Appendix F.5

[3]
1. IN [...]DERWYN CH. YARD 2 IN CORWENT CHY.

Appendix F.6

[4]
IN DOLGELLEN CHURCH. 2 IN LLANRWST CHURCH.

Appendix F.7

[5]
COLUMNS IN MERIONEDDSHIRE.

Appendix F.8

[6]
CASTELL PRYSOR.

Appendix F.9

[7]
GWEDIR.

Appendix F.10

[8]

ON GLYDER BACH.

Appendix F.11

[9]
TREVAEN FROM GLYDER BACH

Appendix F.12

[10]
ALTARS FOUND AT CHESTER.
Notes
*
His views in North and South Wales are FIRST SETT, SOUTH WALES.
  • 1. Chepſtow caſtle, Monmouthſhire
  • 2. Cardiff Glamorganſhire
  • 3. St. Quintin's Glamorganſhire
  • 4. St. Donat's Glamorganſhire
  • 5. View up Neath River Glamorganſhire
  • 6. Pembroke caſtle Pembrokeſhire
  • 7. Llanphor court Pembrokeſhire
  • 8. Manervawr caſtle Pembrokeſhire
  • 9. Inſide of ditto Pembrokeſhire
  • 10. Carey caſtle Pembrokeſhire
  • 11. Burton caſtle, Milford Haven
  • 12. The epiſcopal palace at St. Davids.
SECOND SETT, NORTH WALES.
  • 1. Overton bridge, Flintſhire
  • 2. The new bridge over the river Dee, near Chirk caſtle
  • 3. Chirk caſtle from Wynnſtay park
  • 4. Llangollen
  • 5. The abby of Llan Egweſt, or Vale Crucis, and Caſtle Dinas Brân
  • 6. The iron forge near Dolgelleu
  • 7. Harlech caſtle
  • 8. Caernarvon caſtle
  • 9. Bangor
  • 10. Pengwern, &C. near Feſtiniog
  • 11. Conway caftle
  • 12. Pont y Pair, above Llanrwſt
THIRD SETT, Conſiſt of views in SOUTH and NORTH WALES,
  • 1. The weſt gate of Cardiff
  • 2. Cardiff caſtle from the weſt
  • 3. The entrance to Chepſtow caſtle
  • 4. View of ditto
  • 5. Inſide of ditto
  • 6. Tra [...]th mawr, North Wales
  • 7. Pont Aber Glaſlyn, North Wales
  • 8. Carew, or Carey caſtle, from north-weſt
  • 9. The river Dee, near Bala, North Wales
  • 10. Pimble Meer, North Wales
  • 11. Dinefawr caſtle
  • 12. Rhaiadr y Wennel, North Wales
*
Vita Agricolae.
Mr. Llwyd in Cambden II. 778.
*
Cambden I. 370.
Or Dyſi.
Mr. Pegge.
*
Borda ſignifies a cottage, with a ſmall piece of land annexed, held by the ſervice of finding for the lord, poultry, eggs, &c. for his bwrdd, or table.
*
Powell, 100.
Antiquary Diſcourſes, I. 194.
*
Miſcellany Tracts, Tr. V. p. 38.
Ibid.
*
This very curious antiquity is engraven in the Appendix, with the account drawn up by my learned countryman Llwyd
Ayloff's, Rotuli Walliae, 64, 72, 95.
*
Pewel, 360.
*
Dugdale's Baron. I. 713.
Dugdale's Monaſt.I. 720, 721.
*
Hiſt. Staffordſhire, 126.
In his book on ſtones.
*
Ph. Tr. No 335. p. 500.
*
Da Coſta's Foſſils, 133.
*
Janner, 63.
*
This gentleman is now engaged in an actual ſurvey of North Wales, and of publiſhing a large map of that part of the principality: a work extremely worthy of public encouragement, A farther account of the plan will be printed in the laſt page of this volume.
*
Hiſt. Henry II. 3d edit. II. 383.
Innocentius de immunitate eccleſiae, quoted in Coll. Curious Diſcourſes, I, 102.
*
Hiſt. Henry II.
M.Paris, 129.
Powel, 208.
§
The ſame, 223.
*
Annales Waverleienſes. 159.
Called alſo by the Welſh, Maes-glas, or Greenfield.
*
Ayloff's Rotuli Walliae, 68, 82.
*
Willis's Abbies, I. 312.
Menaſticon, I 720, &c.
*
Notitia, 711.
Dugdale's Warwickſhire, I. 197.
Willis's St. Aſaph, 176.
*
Sandford's Geneal. 475.
Dugdale's Warwickſhire, I. 414.
*
Harleian MSS. No 433, 338.
*
Gale's Script. III, 190.
*
Life of St. Wenefrede, from which the materials for this part are moſtly taken.
Hiſtoire de l'abbaye de St. Denys, 76.
*
Stavely's Hiſt. Churches, 130.
*
Selden's notes on Michael Drayton, 289.
Powel's notes on Girald. Cambr. 874. Mr. Addiſon ſays he ſaw his picture at Ravenna, in the convent of Theatins, among the eminent men of that order.
*
The late Doctor Copper of Cheſter's MSS.
*
Sp. Pl. II. 1638. Fl. lap. 369. No 528.
Gen. 210. tab. 89. fig. 3.
Cat. Stirp. &c. Sileſiae, 382.
§
As quoted by Baron Halier, No 2090.
Powel, 262.
*
Dugdale Monaſt. I. 720.
*
Lord Lyttelton.
*
Rotuli Walliae, 98
76.
Powel, 337.
§
Stow, 214.
*
Rotuli Scotiae, 165.
Dodridge, 125.
III.
§
Carte. II. 634.
*
This place, in old writers, is called the Dongeon, or Donjon: according to SKINNER, Turris mu [...]ſſima pr [...]pagnaculi ad ultimum receptum; but the word being now entirely applied to the miſerable hole in which captives are confined, I ſhall ſtill retain the term Keep.
Stow's Annals, 322.
Fol. cccxii.
*
Harlcian MSS. No 2099.
*
Whitelock, 76.
Ruſhworth 1. part iv. 136.
Idem, Ibid. 456.
*
Lib. iv. p. 307.
Idem, lib. iii. p. 265.
Plinii, Hiſt. Nat. xxxiv. c. 17.
*
Pliny, lib. xxxiv. c. 17.
Juſtin lib. xliv. c. 3.
Strabo, lib. ii. p. 121. lib. xv. p. 1028.
§
Diod. Siculus, lib. v. c. 2.
Plinii, lib. xxxiii. Proemium.
Lib. xxxiii. c. 4.
**
Ibid.
*
Pliny, lib. xxxiii. c. 4.
Ibid.
Diodorus Siculus, lib. v. c. 2.
*
Hooſons Miner's Dictionary, article virgula divinatoria.
*
Agricola, de Re Metallica, lib. ii. p. 26, 27.
Diodorus Siculus, lib. v. c. 2. gives a melancholy account of theſe ſlaves; whoſe ſtate can only be paralleled by the poor Indians in the mines of Potoſt.
Plinii, lib. xxxiv. c. 16.
*
Vide tab. IX.
Cambden, I. 83. Horſely, 328.
*
Strabo, lib. iii. p. 221.
Plinii, lib. xxxiv. c. 16.
*
Lib. i. c. 2. p. 42.
Bede Hiſt, lib, iii. c. 25. p. 131.
*
Eddii vit. Wilfridi, in Gale iii. 59.
Ingulphi Hiſt. apud Cambden. Script, poſt. Bedem. 888.
*
Strabo, lib. iii. p. 265. to 309
Borlaſe, Antiq. Cornwall. p. 278.
*
Diodorus Siculas, Ed. Wechel, 1604. pp. 209, 218.
Plinii, lib. xxxiv. c. 17.
Ibid.
§
Borlaſe, Antiq. 265, 266.
Plinii, lib. xxxiv. c. 9.
*
Tab. ix. This curious antiquity is preſerved at Moſtyn.
Lib. xxxiv. c. 10.
Lib, iii. 248.
*
Caeſar. Com. Strabo, lib. iv. p. 305.
Archaelog. ii. 14.
Yarranton's Improvements, 57. Leland, Itin. i. 144. vi. 102. Cambden, ii. 722.
§
Strabo, lib. iv. p. 305.
*
Vita Agr.
Tour in Scotland, ii. 130. iii, 414.
Borlaſe. Nat. Hiſt. Cornwall, 213, 214.
*
Lib. xxxiv. c. 16. To prevent antiquaries being further miſled about the Ampthill gold mine, I muſt inform them, that it proved only a bed of mica curea; or, to ſpeak like a punſter, turned out nothing but tal [...].
Camb [...]en, i. 47.
*
Borlaſe's Antiq. Cornwall, 242. tab. xix. tab. lxxxv.
Tom. iii. 312.
*
Strabo, 305.
Non cognoſcis me? ego ſum Policio, cui ſolebas ſigillaria afferre. SENICA, Epiſt. 12.
*
Recueil d'Antiquitez, iv. 169.
Pueris turpicula res in collo quaedam ſuſpenditur, ne quid obſit bonae ſcaevae cauſa. VARRO de Ling. Lat. vi.
*
Lib. xxviii, c. 4.
*
Harleian MSS. No 2002. 9.
Ibid.
Fodinae Regales, from p, 11. to 19.
*
Rotull Wallia (Sir Joſeph Ayloff's) 75.
Tanner's Notit. Monaſt. 711.
*
Rymer's Foedera, xi 68. 128. 240. 309. Henry IV. had paſſed an act, that ‘none ſhall uſe to multiply gold or ſilver, nor uſe the craft of multiplication; and if any the ſame do, that he incur penalty of felony.’ This was aimed at perſons, who, under pretence of tranſmutation, counterfeited the nobler metals. But afterwards it was found a check on the metallurgic art; as it extended even to the puniſhment of any ingenious refiner, who had diſcovered the method of getting more gold and ſilver out of the baſer kinds than was known before, which occaſioned the repeal of the act, in the firſt year of William and Mary, c. 30.
Ibid.
Ben Jonſon's Alchemiſt.
*
Rymer, xii. 28.
Vide Life of Doctor Dee, Ben Jonſon's Alchemiſt, &c.
Moſes Stringer, author of Opera Mineralia explicata, calls it the fifth, which ſuits better the character of that monarch.
*
Rymer, xi. 317.
Statute 5th Elizabeth, c. 7.
*
This opinion was given in 1640, 1641, and ſubſcribed by Maynard, Glaw ville, and others, the firſt [...]vers of the time.
*
COMMENTARIES, 4 to, i. 294.
*
Hiſtory of the houſe of Starley, 28.
Collins's Peerage, ii. 453.
*
Powel, 207.
Guil. Neubrig, lib. ii. c. 5. This is the author whom the Welſh call Gwillim Bach. Brompton, 1048.
*
Bryn, a hill; Dychwilweh, return.
Girald. Cambr. Itin. lib. ii. c. 10. p. 873.
*
Leland Itin. V. 56.
Harleian MSS. No 1968. 10.
The ſame, No 1970. 7.
*
Cambden, ii. 826.
Collin's Peerage, i. 48.
*
Annales Ceſtrenſes, quoted by Carte, ii. 151.
Rymer, i. 814.
Idem i. 845.
*
Rymer, ii. 248.
*
Carte, ii. 195.
Dugdale, Baron. i. 527.
*
He had married Elinor, daughter of Richard earl of Warwick.
*
Drake's Parlem. Hiſt. xxii, 384.
Account communicated to me by Sir John Glynne.
Drake, xxiii. 50.[96]
*
Drake, xxiii. 53.
*
MS. at Moſtyn
Whitelock, 231.
*
He died 1632. A gentleman well ſkilled in prints tells me, that theſe four pictures were engraven by Rouſſelet.
*
Whitelock, 49
Parliament. Hiſt. xvi. 294.512.
*
Athenae Oxon. ii. 386.
Parliament Hiſt. xxi. 90.
*
Drake's Parlem. Hiſt. xxii. 416.
*
Harleian MS. No 2099.9.
*
Brodſhaw's Life of St. Werburg.
*
De ſignif. vocab. [...].
*
Montfaucon, III. part ii. p. 177.
Nardini, Roma Anticha, p. 37.
P. 384. tab. xxi.xxii.xxiii.
§
As I have been informed by my friend Mr. Stuart.
*
Vitruvius, lib. v. c. II.
*
Civitates Ortis, iii. pl. 3. This work was publiſhed in 1576.
*
Tab, 67. No iii.
*
Gale's Comm. 53.
Horſely, Cumberland, 259.
*
Horſely, 473.
Idem, 85.
*
Sax. Chren. 25.
Bede, Hiſt. ii. c a.
P. [...]
*
Powel, 27.
Sax. Chr. 102. Flores Hiſt. anno 908. p. 269.
Ranulf. Higden in Gale, iii. 260.
*
P [...] [...] ſ [...]lam primam difficultatem porpeſſa tanta indignatione carnalem cencut [...] [...], at run [...]am d [...]p [...]ad viri [...] [...]rum rediens, ſe caelebita Ciſſiſſimo conti [...]. I [...]
H [...], [...], lib. v. p. 354.
*
Sax. Chr. 109.
*
P. 122. Henry Huntindon, 356.
Polychron. in Gale, iii. 267.
*
Leiceſter, 105.
Ordericus vitalis, lib. iv. p. 516.
*
Erdeſwicke's MSS. quoted by Doctor Gower, p. 22.
Doctor Gower's materials, &c. p. 22.
*
Leiceſter, 152.
*
Vale royal, 161.
Ibid. 157.
*
THERE is a town called Brichſtou (Briſtol) oppoſite to Ireland, and extremely convenient for trading with that country. Wulfſtan induced them to drop a barbarous cuſtom, which neither the love of God nor the king could prevale on them to lay aſide. This was the mart for ſlaves, collected from all parts of England; and particularly young women, whom they took care to provide with a pregnancy, in order to enhance their value. It was a moſt moving ſight to ſee, in the public markets, rows of young people of both ſexes tied together with ropes; of great beauty, and in the flower of their youth, daily proſſituted, daily ſold. Execrable fact! wretched diſgrace! Men, unmindful even of the affection of the brute creation! delivering into ſlavery their relations, and even their very offspring. Vita S. Wulfſtan, in Anglia Sacra, ii. 258. Wulſſtan was biſhop of Worceſter, and died in 1095.
*
Willielm. Malmeſh. in ſcript. poſt, Bedam, p. 17.
Anderſon, i. 58, 59.
Idem, 52.
Bedae Hiſt. Abb. Weremouth, 295, 297.
Tranſlation of Orofius, by the honoarable DAINES BARRINGTON, 9, 12, 13.
*
Heſtha is ſuppoſed to be a capon; cuna & brewing tub or vat. I do not find ruſca explained.
*
Quoted by Cambden i. 672.
Fordun, i. 449.
Itin. Cambr. c. xi. p. 87.
*
Walſtngham, p. 467; who places this event in 1255.
Rymer, i. 635.
Idem, 636.
§
Powel, 333. Rymer, ii. 53.68.
Powel, 382.
*
Statutes at large, 21 Rich. II. c. 9.
Rymer viii. 333.
Fale-royal, 185.
*
Speed's Hiſt, 858.
The Miſeries of Queen Margaret, part iv.
*
Dugdale, i. 249.
Mr. WARTON'S Hiſt. Poetry, i. 1 [...]4 Daniel King calls it the play of Robert Cecill.
Loathſome.
*
Harleian MSS. 2124.
*
Harleian. MSS. 2013.
Hiſtory of Engliſh Poetry, i, 237.
*
This is copied from the MS. in the B [...]dlcian Library.
*
Memoires, &c. de la Fcte des Foux, 14. See alſo more of it in Mr. Warton's Hiſtory of Poetry, i. 246.
*
Stow's Hiſt. London, II. book iv. 7.
*
Drake's Parlem. Hiſt. ii. 233.
*
Holinſhed, 809.
The ſame, 1317.
Harlcian MSS. No 1968. 9.
*
Harleian MSS. 2082. 10. 2003. 41. 43.
Idem, 2081. 21.
Hiſt. Gwedir family. Fifteen tribes of N.Wales.
*
Cambden's Remains, 344.
*
De aquaeductu per ipſos (the black friers) faciendo a fonte prope furcas. Vide Tanner, 65.
*
Vegetius, lib. iv. c. 4.
Intervalla autem turrium ita ſunt facienda ut ne longius ſit alia ab alia ſagittae intermiſſione, &c, Vitruvius, lib. i. c. 5.
*
Turres itaque rotundae aut polygoniae ſunt faciendae, quadratas enim machinae celerius diſſipant, &c. Ibid. Turres ſunt projiciendae in exteriorem partem, uti cum ad murum hoſtis impetu velit appropinquare, a turribus, &c. Ibid.
*
Harleian MSS. No 2046. 10.
*
Ordericus Vitalis, 516.
*
Lib, iv. p 522.
*
Harleian MSS, No 2079. 63.
*
The woman's name was Caecilia, indicted for the murder of her huſband, John de Rygeway, Rymer's Foedera, vi. 13.
*
Sock, he who is inveſted with this, has power to hold courts within his own lands. SACK, power of deciding complaints and quarrels, and applying to his own uſe the fines reſulting from ſuch deciſions within his own territory. TOLL, needs no explanation. THEME, the right to diſpoſe of all his bondſmen, their children, and goods. INEANGTHEFE, the power of apprehending, in his own lands, thieves, whether they be his own people or thoſe of another lord. OUTFANGTHEFE, is the power of ſeizing, in any perſon's land, a vaſſal of his own, who has committed a robbery within his juriſdiction, and bringing him to trial to his own court. Vide Skene, de verb, ſignific. and So [...]n [...]r's Gloſſ.
*
King, ii. 159
Harleian MSS. No 2057. 34.
*
King, ii. 167.
*
630 l. was alſo immediately collected from the humane inhabitants of the city, to be diſtributed among theſe miſerable maimed objects.
*
Weſtminſter, Oxford, Briſtol, Gloſter, Peterborough, and Cheſter. The firſt was ſuppreſſed in the reign of queen Mary.
*
Hiden in Gale, iii. 240.
Ibid.
*
Dugdale, Monaſt. i. 200.
Idem, 985, &c.
*
Leiceſter's Hiſt. Antiq. 127.
The particulars of the deaths of this illuſtriou. line may be ſeen is LEICESTER: or in DUGDALE'S Baronage, i. 32, &c.
*
Willis's Cathedrals, i. 323.
*
King, ii. 189.
Felibica Hiſt. Paris, ii, 1500. Pieces Juſtif. iii. 212.
Martyrs., iii.
*
Modern Univ, Hiſt, xxxix. 95.
King, ii. 39. 196.
It is probable that there had been a more antient common-hall; a lane in this city ſtill retains the name of Old Common-hall lane.
*
Leiceſter, 119.
*
Leiceſter, 142
Dugdale Monaſt ii. 185.
*
Rather is that of Trinity; 9 s. 2 ½ d. is paid at the audit for the ſite of it.
*
Tanner, 59.
Harleian MSS. No 1994. 69.
*
Sciatis me dediſſe, et in perpetuam elemoſynam concepiſſe D [...]o et ſanctae Mariae et MONIALIBUS Ceſtriae, &c. Monaſticon, i. 507.
Herleian MSS. No 2057. 36.
*
Tanner, 64.
65.
King, i. 76.
*
Harleian MSS. No 2082. 31. 34.
*
Vide Fitz-Stephen's Deſer, Lend, tranſlated by an Antiquary, 1772, 46, 7, 8.
*
Which was won in 1578 by ſheriff Montford, on Shrove-Tueſday.
*
Harleaan MSS. No 2003. 39.
Mr. Andrew Yarranton's England's Improvements by ſea and land, &c. to, London, 1677. His plan for that of the Dee, is at p. 192.
*
Harleian MSS. No 2004. 4, 5, 16.
*
According to Burdet's map.
*
Powel's notes on Girald. Itin. Cambr. lib. ii. c. II.
*
BEDE Hiſt. H [...]. ii. c. z. p. 80. Sax. Cir. 25.
Powel, 35.
*
Powel, notes upon Girald. Itin. Cambr. lib. ii. c. 12.
Powel, 211.
*
Llangwm Dinmael, Cirregy Druidion, &c.
Powel, 211.
*
AYLOFF's Rotuli Walliae, 81.
Dugdale Baron. i. 82.
*
Holinſhed.
Leiceſter, 371.
King, ii, 195.
§
Dugdale Baron, ii. 368.
*
Whitelock, 77. Idem, 192. 201.
Drake Parlem, Hiſt. xiv. 356.
Whitelock, 231.
Britiſh Biogr. vii. app. 141.
*
Parts in other pariſhes are, Iſ-coed in Melpas, Penley in Elleſmere, and Bodidris in Llanarmon.
*
In the preceding page,THREAP WOOD line 21 inſtead of eldeſt ſiſter, read ſurviving ſiſter.
Blackſtone, 4 to, i. 113.
Vide Life of Lady Warner, p. 108. London 1696.
*
Salaſtary Pedigrce.
*
Powel, 380.
AYLOFF's Rot. Walli [...], 101.
Madox. Antiq. Excheq. i. 465. 6.
§
Leges Walli [...], 92. & Gloſſar. 554.
Leges Wallica, 78.
*
Leges Saxon. 40. 132.
Gentoo Laws, 268, &c.
*
BEDAE Hiſt. Eccleſ. lib. ii. c. 2. p. 80.
Cambden, i. 663.
Script. poſt. BEDAM, 294.
*
BEDAE Hiſt. Eccleſ. lib. ii. c. 2. p. 80.
*
275.
Water-races are often performed here in theſe ſlight veſſels. On Michacl [...] day next, a regatta of great magnificence is to be exhibited by them above Bangor Bridge.
*
Eyton Pidigree.
Dugdale Baron. i. 592.
*
Har [...]ian MSS. No 2074. 45.
Dugdale Baron. i. 668.
*
Brit. Zool. i. No 70.
Pp. 14. 100.
*
Mr. Mytton is in poſſeſſion of a carving, much reſembling that mentioned by Mr. WALPOLE, in his Anecdotes of Painting, ii. 42. It is the portrait of Charles I. full-faced, cut on a peach-ſtone: above is a crown. His face and cloaths, which are the Vandyck dreſs, are painted. On the reverſe is an eagle transfixed with an arrow; and around it this motto, I feathered this arrow. The whole is moſt admirably executed; and is ſet in gold with a cryſtal on each ſide. It probably was the work of Nicholas Briot, a great graver of the mint in the time of Charles I.
*
Tanner, 457.
Davies's diſplay of heraldry, 45.
*
P. 260.
Powel, 20. Collins's Baronetis, iii. 129,
*
Dugdale Baron. i. 4431.
*
Dugdale Baron. i. 443.
*
Much of it is preſerved in the firſt volume of Leland's Collectanea, p. 230.
Blunt's antient tenures, 17.
Rymer.
*
Rymer, i. 814.
*
Sax, Chron. 31.
*
Henry of Huntingd [...]n, lib. iii. p. 331.
*
B [...]de Hiſt. Eccleſ. lib. iii. c. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13. are all replete with [...] of this kind.
*
Monaſticon, 445.
Itin. v. 39.
Powel's note on G [...]ald. Ca [...]br, Itin, 877. Goodwin de.Praeſul. Angl. 657.
*
G [...]rala. Ca [...]. [...].
[...].
G [...]dwi [...]'s catalogue of Engliſh biſhops [...] 1015.
*
p [...], 201.
Itin. v. 39.
Baronage.
*
Harl [...]ian MSS. No 1881. 6.
*
Wy [...]'s Hiſt. Wales, [...]42.
Powel, 362.
Idem, 288.
*
Vide page 221.
*
Old Ruyton, Cotton, Shelvoke, Shottaton, Wykey, Eardeſton, Tedsmere, Rednall, Haughton, Sutton, and Felton; which form a manor in Oſweſtry hundred.
*
Leland Collect. iii. 230. Joannes Sariſhurienſis, as quoted by Camden, 698.
Vide Churchyard's Worthines of Wales, originally printed in 1587; reprinted by Thomas Evans 1776.
*
Rymer, i. 227
*
Ruſhworth, ii. part iv. 1146.
Whitelock, 348.
*
Powel, 221.
*
Powel 213.
King's Vale-royal, 195.
Dugdale Baron. ii. 368.
*
Gwydir family, 107.
Tacitus de mor. Germ. c. z.
Wilkin's Leges Sax. 71.
*
Leges Wallica, 199.
The ſame, 82.
*
Leges Wallicae, 278.
Wilkin's Leges Saxon. 44.
MS. notes to my copy of Les Couſtumes de Normandie.
§
Regiam majeſtatem, 74.
|
Davies, Hiſt. Ireland, 109.
They had killed a poor parſon, at the inſtigation of their chieftain, becauſe his wife had preferred the nurſing another great man's child to his.
*
Gwydir family, 107.
*
Bartholinus de Contempt. mortis. p. 5.
*
Willis's St. Aſaph, 52. 285.
*
Rotuli Walliae, 81.
*
This knight and lady ſeem to have been the ſame with Syr Gareth and Damoyſell Lynet, celebrated in the viith book of the Storye of the moſt worthy kynge Arthur, Sir Gareth loved and was beloved by the fair Lyones, ſiſter to Lynet. Their paſſion exceeded the bounds of diſcretion; but Lynet, to ſave their honor, by enchantment prevents their loves, till they are joined together in holy matrimony.
*
Tryſtan was another famous knight. His ſorrow ſeems to have aroſe from his being deſerted by a lady, who, as the hiſtory relates, forſook him for Syr Bleoberys.
A Scotch horſe.
Two lofty mountains in Merionethſhire. This poem is taken from the collection formed by the learned and ingenious Mr. Evan Evans.
*
Eyten Pedigree.
*
Eyton Pedigroe.
*
Dugdale Baren. i. 82.
Itin. v. 34.
The letters are REH. (or R) EVEHIRE.
*
She died April 8th 1747, aged 59.
*
He was inferred July 22d, 1721. He beſtowed on the church the altar-piece, with the picture of the inſtitution of the ſacrament, which he brought from Rome; alſo the picture of [...] David.
*
See the account of Valle Crucis, in the further progreſs of this work.
*
Here is another fine full-length of his brother Sir Thomas, in a full wig and long cloak, with the croſs of ſome religious order.
*
Rereſby's Memoirs, 231.
*
Saluſbury Pedigree, iii. 6.
*
Rotuli Walliae, 87.
*
Cowydd y Seren, a Ymddangoſes mis mawrth, B. A. 1402.
Collins's Peerage, vii. 507.
*
Leges Wallicae.
*
Collins's Baronet. 1720. ii. p. 235.
*
Hiſt. of St. Aſaph; Cathedral, 61.
Viſa Ricardi, ii. 171.
*
Leland's Collect. i. 310.
*
The omen alluded to was a ſtar and fiery dragon; which, according to the interpretation of M [...]l [...], predicted the reign of U [...]E [...], afterwards ſurram d Pen Dragon, from hwing [...] golden dragons to be ma [...] one of which he pre [...]ted to the cathedral of [...] he carried along with him [...] w [...]at is [...] likely wore by way of [...]. His ſon A [...] the [...]. [...] of M [...]nm [...]l, 254. 257. 283.
*
Leland's Collect. i. 311.
Ibid.
Idem, 313.
§
Holinſhed, 519.
*
Rymer's Foedera, viii. 159.
Idem, 160.
Idem, 163.
*
Rymer, viii. 167.
*
Rymer, viii. 181, 182.
Leland Itin. v. 4.
Ibid.
*
Vita R. II. 174.
*
Vita R. ii. 174
Rymer, viii. 209.
Ibid, 225.
*
Vita Ricardi II. 178.
*
Rymer, viii. 279.
Dagdale's Baron. i. 717.
Collins's Peerage, ii. 382.
*
Hiſt. Gwedir. 53.
*
Rymer, viii.222.246; the biſhop of Voltorno probably acted as the pope's legate.
Rymer, viii. 588.
Willi [...]'s Bangor, 84.
Goodwin, 618.
§
Rymer, viii. 264.
*
Stow, 327.
Vita Ricardi II. 178.
*
Holinſhed, 520; who relates it from Walſingham. Thoſe who wiſh to read the horrid tale, may conſult the laſt, p. 557. Camdeni Script. Angl.
*
Vita Ricardi, 175.
Statute 4th Henry IV. c. 34.
*
Rymer, viii. 271.
Willis's Llandaff, 30, 31.
*
Rymer, viii. 289.
*
Vita Ricardi II. 179.
Willis's Bangor, 122.
*
ii. 654.
*
Wynne's Hiſt. Wales, 321.
*
Leland Collect. ii. 312.
*
Rymer, viii. 291.
Idem, 304.
Idem, 314.
§
Rymer.
*
Holinſhed, 523.
Collins's Baronets, ii. 236. ed. 1720.
*
Helinſhed, 524.
*
Rymer, viii. 328.
Idem, 333.
Idem, 331. Idem.
Idem.
§
Carte, ii. 656.
*
Parliamentary Hiſt. ii. 79.
Rymer, viii. 356.
*
Rymer, viii. 365, 366, 367.
Idem, 382.
Dugdale's Baron, i, 243.
*
Holinſhed, 527.
*
Rymer, viii. 390.
*
ii. 665.
528.
*
Ferdun. Scotichronicon. ii, 441.
Walſingham, 566.
*
Hiſtoire et regue de Charles VI. tom. iv. 190.
Ibid.
*
Hiſtoire et regne de Charles VI. tom. iv, 190.
Rymer, viii. 406.
Walſingham, 566.
§
Monſtrelet.
Rymer, viii.
*
Walſingbam, 566; who adds, that a marſhal and ſeven captains were takes at the ſame time.
*
Moreri; who ſays he fell a the attack of Haverſord-weſt
*
Monſtrelet, 16. Hail, 19.
*
Rymer, viii. 420.
Idem, 421.
Ibid.
|
De Laſſan, iv. 195.
*
Rymer, viii. 419. 497.
Welſingham, 568. Holinſhed, 553.
*
Drake's Parliamentary Hiſtory, ii. 85. This was a very conſiderable fortreſs, as appears by Buck's view of it, vol. ii. No 398.
Walſingham, 566.
Parliamentary Hiſt. ii. 93.
|
Ibid.
*
Walſingham, 566.
Parliamentary Hiſt, ii, 106.
*
Near Aberyſtwyth is an old embattled houſe, (as I am informed) called Ty Cryſ, reported to have been Glyndwr's.
Rymer, viii, 547.
*
Rymer, viii. 588.
Cronycle of Englonde, 143.
*
Rymer, viii. 603. Rymer, viii. 611.
Dated from Northampton, 23d November.
*
Dated July 14th. Rymer, viii. 753.
*
Harleian MSS. No 1999. 32.
*
Statutes at Large, Ruffhead's; ed. i. 484. Par un ASSACH ſolonc la cuſtome de GALES deſt à dire par la ſerement de CCC bommes. See alſo Leges Wallicae, 188. & ſeq.
*
I beg leave to render the word weſtour differently: it ſeems derived from the Welſh, gweſtwr, which ſignifies a perſon who kept a place of public entertainment; and ſuch a place was very proper for a rendezvous of this nature.
*
The writ is dated July 5th, Rymer, ix, 283.
*
Goodwin, 657.
Idem, 658.
Ibid.
*
Willis's St. Aſaph, 178.
Willis's Abbies, ii. 312.
*
Powel, 255. 293.
Idem, 321. 327.
*
Kings, ii. 17. See the learned Rowlands, 52.
*
BEDE Hiſt. lib. ii. c. 2. p. 80.
Vide Doctor MORTON'S Table of Alphabeth.
Vide Appendix, Mr. Llwyd's Letter.
*
Lhwyd's Archzol. 259.
*
Powel, 201.
Powel, 201.
§
Powel, 208.
*
Vitruvsius, lib. ii. c. 9. p. 35.
Annals Scotland, 149.
*
Leland's Itin. v. 35.
*
De moribus German.
Mela, lib. iii. c. 2.
Wormii Mon. Danic. 40.
|
Pomponius Mela, lib. iii. c. 2.
§
Bartholinus Antiq. Dan. 438.
*
Suecia Antiqua et Hodierna, tab, 315.
Tour in Scotland, iii-106.
*
Iliad, lib. xxiii. L.
*
Eigia, lib. i. el. 3.
In Ph [...]acia.
Lib. xi. I. 184.
*
Letter from the Rev. Mr. Low of Birſa
Tour Scotl. 1769, q [...]arto ed.
*
C. xxx. xxxi
*
This gentleman died in 1666: the preceding, in May 1728.
Whitelock, 142.
Willis's Bangor, 341. Cathedrals, i. 521. Athenae Oxon. i. 682.
*
He died March 3d 1776, aged 77. This, now, fills theſe blanks.
*
Powel, 151.
Idem, 199.
At the end of Llwya's Commentariolum, 157.
*
Powel, 356.
Rotuli Wallia, 75, Anno 9 Edwardi I. Febr. 5. 128. We find a ſimilar order in Rymer.
Powel, 383. Wynn, 313.
*
M. Paris, 855. Dugdale Baron. i. 527.
*
A Cywydd and an Awdl differ in theſe reſpects: the firſt conſiſts of couplets generally of ſeven ſyllables; the laſt of ſtan [...]as of different lengths of metre; ſomewhat like a Pindaric ode.
*
Madoc died in 1160.
*
Epitaph in H [...]pe church.
Camden, ii. 828.
*
This gave riſe to the fable of Cheſter having been built by Lleon Gawr, a mighty giant. See p. 106. Mr. CAMDEN, by miſtake, calls the legion Leon Vawr.
*
Powel, 211.
The ſame, 350.
AYLOFF'S Rot. Walliae, 87.
*
Dugdale Baron. 1. 44, 45. Rotuli Scotiae, 136.
Sa [...]ſ [...]ury Pe. digree, 36. b.
The ſame, p. 52. b. 67.
*
Brit. Eccleſ. Antiquitates, 335. Paulus Diaconus, lib. xv. c. 12. and BEDE, lib. i. c. 20. deſcribe the action.
*
Lib. xxvi. c. 4.
*
i. c. the dry Alun.
*
Mention is made of it in Wood's Athenae. Oxon. ii. 354. and the Brit. Blog. iii. 1313. By permiſſion of Mr. Williams, I cauſed ſeveral of the tombs to be copied; and that of Lady Venetia Digby to be engraven in the Antiquary's Reportery.
*
Taciti Annales, lib. xii. c. 33.
*
P. 51.
*
This very able writer, in one inſtance credulous, ſays, that twelve men were killed at once by one of theſe Daemones truculenti, in the mine of ANNE-BER [...]. De anim ſubter. 491.
*
This very able writer, in one inſtance credulous, ſays, that twelve men were killed at once by one of theſe Daemones truculenti, in the mine of ANNE-BER [...]. De anim ſubter. 491.
*
No 136. or Vol. ii. 378. Lowthorb's Abridgement. The account was drawn up by Mr. Roger Moſtyn.
*
Bochart Hitroz. pars ii. p. 347. Alſo, Univerſal antient Hiſt. iv. 107, notes.
*
Powel, 360.
Ibid.
*
Moſtyn MSS.
*
Tacitus de mor. German, lib. vi. 246.
Strabo, lib. iv. 302. Athenaeus,
*
North Wales.
Mr. Morris's MSS. of Britiſh muſic.
Leges Wallieae, 35.
*
Leges Wallicae, 35.
The ſame, 35, and 16.
*
leges Wallicae, 37.
Ibid. 37.
Ibid. 68.
*
Leges Wallicae, 68.
191.
See figures of the crwt [...] and pib-gorn in Archaeologia, iii. tab. vii.
*
Powel, 192.
*
Or their pay. Sometimes it ſignifies the act of their perambulation.
*
Powel, 237.
*
Leges Wellicae, 28.
Lib. xv. 9.
*
Several parts of this account are tranſlated from Cambrobrytannicae Cymraecaeve Linguae Inſtitutiones; a very rare book, written by Doctor John Davydd Rhys of Llanfaethlu in Angleſey, printed in 1592. He took his doctor's degree at Sienna; but was educated at Oxford. He returned to his own country, where he practiſed with great ſucceſs. At the requeſt of Sir Edward Stradling, of St. Donats, he compoſed this book. He tells us, he wrote the firſt part at Mr. Morgan Meredydd's in Radnorſhire; the reſt at a place of his own in Brecknockſhire, as he ſays, at the age of ſeventy, and under the ſhade of a hawthorn grove. Vide his preface.
POLY OLBION, ſong iv.
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